DIY 4x12 3500K/5000k lm561c two channel board

NoFucks2Give

Well-Known Member
But wrong? Never ever.
There you go again, so very wrong. Delusions of adaquacy. If you want to know why you are wrong go to TI's Web Bench or get an account with heatsinkcalculator.com and you will see that natural convection requires buoyancy, the copper surface is opposing gravity and no available vertical air flow will not allow natural convection to work very well. Thermal exchange between an extended copper pad and the bottom side of the PCB is used on FR4 boards (see attached) not MCPCBs. The MCPCB is single sided which does not allow for thermal vias to transfer heat. The metal core does that just fine without the pad.


The man has some boards that work and he is happy. You only have a bad attitude.


Notice especially the difference between the pad layout in the rebelRecomendationsPCB.pdf

The MCPCB does not have top side copper pads. Whereas the FR4 pads have ext3endded pads with thermal vias.

The tabs on the MCPCB pads is for solder inspection not thermal relief.

rebelMCPCBpads.jpg


rebelFR4Pads.jpg
 

Attachments

NoFucks2Give

Well-Known Member
Regarding this, are there any recognized guidelines on how to set up adequate thermal vias
Yes for FR4 boards. The general consensus is 10 mil holes spaced 15 mils apart within 3mm of the heat source. See above post for 3 PDFs from Cree, Lumileds, & OSRAM and their thermal recommendations. Feel free to ignore the recommendations of the self proclaimed genius @tomate that, as he says, is "never wrong".


I do not agree with the thermal via method. I prefer to use a heavy cooper pad (at least 2oz Cu) for the LEDs thermal pad and attach a copper heatsink directly to the thermal pad. The thermal resistance is less than going through the thermal vias. I have run thermal experiment with both models and the top side pad connected to the copper heatsink works far better.

This is how well the extended copper pad works vs. the copper heatsink.

burnt.jpg

copperPipePCB.jpg

setupThermalRed.jpg

thermalExperimentSetup.jpg

thermalExperiments.jpg
 
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ttystikk

Well-Known Member
@NoFucks2Give do you think there's much of a future in water cooled LED?

I'm thinking that between PCB mounted chips, falling costs of parts and manufacturing and ever higher efficiency, it's increasingly becoming a solution in search of a problem.

Your thoughts?
 

amyg88

Member
Yes for FR4 boards. The general consensus is 10 mil holes spaced 15 mils apart within 3mm of the heat source. See above post for 3 PDFs from Cree, Lumileds, & OSRAM and their thermal recommendations. Feel free to ignore the recommendations of the self proclaimed genius @tomate that, as he says, is "never wrong".


I do not agree with the thermal via method. I prefer to use a heavy cooper pad (at least 2oz Cu) for the LEDs thermal pad and attach a copper heatsink directly to the thermal pad. The thermal resistance is less than going through the thermal vias. I have run thermal experiment with both models and the top side pad connected to the copper heatsink works far better.

This is how well the extended copper pad works vs. the copper heatsink.

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Thanks for that, very interesting. Can you simulate that or was the prototype required?
 

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
Thanks for that, very interesting. Can you simulate that or was the prototype required?
Their engineers are well experienced with heat transfer issues on MPCB's. In working with their engineers we discussed how wide the trace had to be to dissipate heat.

I want to thank @NoFuckks2Give for speaking up for me. I did not leave I got tired of being disrespected here. I deserve better. I did not stumble into my design, I worked my way into it with formulae and a lot of time and listening to others and experimenting, foundations of sound engineering. Working with the MPCB engineers helped me finalize my idea of two channels with a total of 384 diodes driven around 160-170 mA per diode. That was my GOAL.

thank-you very much for speaking up for me. I never left, I just stopped coming around as I saw it as I was not welcome here any longer. I avoid confrontation on the internet as people can be quite nasty when they have no boundaries just a screen and their own machinations. it effected me and I started reacting and not being thoughtful any longer.

I did this project just to share and show it is not that hard to make an idea into a working product, just diligence, determination, working with others and an expectation of a positive outcome.

I did not run away, you folks ran me away like school yard bullies. Why would I stay around with that kind of people chasing me everywhere I commented. This group has shown me their ;lack of humanity and it has a head and a leader. So my funky board set in a dryer duct works great and the plants responds positive and my hydrofarm PAR meter shows nice light too. My GF also likes her light and so do her greens, tomatoes, peppers, etc.
 

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
Just to be clear. I was always the board was 200w power. I did not want people to buy into a CO-OP for a cheap price, but for a group effort, so I decided to say a 100w board, but it is 100w per channel, 92v x 1.05A = 96W per channel, or 200w per board. So those folks that participated in the CO-OP got a nice board that replaces 4 - 50w COB's for $60 that is about $0.30/W not bad working together. All the boards have shipped except for those reserved by request.
Mine are at work.

Get a group have your own boards built, 2600w for $800 that is $0.30/W
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Just to be clear. I was always the board was 200w power. I did not want people to buy into a CO-OP for a cheap price, but for a group effort, so I decided to say a 100w board, but it is 100w per channel, 92v x 1.05A = 96W per channel, or 200w per board. So those folks that participated in the CO-OP got a nice board that replaces 4 - 50w COB's for $60 that is about $0.30/W not bad working together. All the boards have shipped except for those reserved by request.
Mine are at work.

Get a group have your own boards built, 2600w for $800 that is $0.30/W
Did you work out the umol/Watt on those?

I'm interested in something like this...
 

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
Did you work out the umol/Watt on those?

I'm interested in something like this...
Yes. I worked towards 150mA per diode. I came to 167mA per diode. Pretty close. That was how I came up with the geometry of 32s6p with a C1050 driver. You get 94 Vf. Some work towards lower Vf, I went the other way. The board is designed to work with 1050mA or 500mA drivers only to maintain the best luminosity. With a 240H-C1050B driver I can get almost 2 amps and 230 watts out of the board.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Yes. I worked towards 150mA per diode. I came to 167mA per diode. Pretty close. That was how I came up with the geometry of 32s6p with a C1050 driver. You get 94 Vf. Some work towards lower Vf, I went the other way. The board is designed to work with 1050mA or 500mA drivers only to maintain the best luminosity. With a 240H-C1050B driver I can get almost 2 amps and 230 watts out of the board.
I was looking for a measure of light output per watt or overall efficiency.

I suspect your boards would be right in there with other well known designs.
 

Doctor Derp

Well-Known Member
@VegasWinner ive been following your thread here for some time. I think for sure you let the trolls get to you. Its hard not to. Keep your head up Sir. You came in with an idea and went through the whole process, setbacks included, and now have an excellent product to show for it.

I'll take some inspiration from this thread. Technical and personal. You do your thing.
 

Moflow

Well-Known Member
The MUtherFUckEr boards has arrived! Eventually
My paypal address was okay...... but.... a royal snail card arrived with HER name to say I'd to pay Cuntstums of £17.42p.
She said ... did I order shit in her name lol
I said no....?
So the fecker ripped up the card ffs.... bonkers!
I went out with the card in about 20 pieces to Royal Snails office and luckily for me I knew the postie behind the counter lol lol
Gotta order a driver for them yet, probably get it from Mouser.
Should have it up n running in a week or so.
Thanks @VegasWinner .
:cool:
 

amyg88

Member
The MUtherFUckEr boards has arrived! Eventually
My paypal address was okay...... but.... a royal snail card arrived with HER name to say I'd to pay Cuntstums of £17.42p.
She said ... did I order shit in her name lol
I said no....?
So the fecker ripped up the card ffs.... bonkers!
I went out with the card in about 20 pieces to Royal Snails office and luckily for me I knew the postie behind the counter lol lol
Gotta order a driver for them yet, probably get it from Mouser.
Should have it up n running in a week or so.
Thanks @VegasWinner .
:cool:
bonkers!
 

Johnnycannaseed1

Well-Known Member
Pretend? He was up front. It is you that is the sham. He did not need your useless advice. He got the job done. What have you accomplished other than being an annoying little gnat that thinks he's hot shit but turns out to be nothing more than just a warmed up turd. Just because you think you are right does not make it true. Quite the contrary. You owe the man an apology.

At least he learns, that is way more than anyone could say about you. Some people live and learn and some just live.
Pretty much sums up Shitefras... Nothing more than a follower posing as a guru...

Good Job on the boards Vegaswinner, I really like your ethos of people coming together, collaborating on joint ventures and sharing costs, it is a great model, much respect ;)
 

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
Pretty much sums up Shitefras... Nothing more than a follower posing as a guru...

Good Job on the boards Vegaswinner, I really like your ethos of people coming together, collaborating on joint ventures and sharing costs, it is a great model, much respect ;)
Disagree and the name calling makes you a hypocrite. :joint:
 

Johnnycannaseed1

Well-Known Member
Disagree and the name calling makes you a hypocrite. :joint:
How does name calling make me a hypocrite LOL?

Cmon Abiqua you can do better than that, as to the rest of your comment reckon we are just going to have to agree to disagree with regards to Shitefras!
 
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