Cree Cobs+Samsung F Series Gen 3s strip build

Discussion in 'LED and other Lighting' started by whytewidow, Dec 2, 2018.


    whytewidow Well-Known Member

    Alrighty this will be my second DIY led flower light build the light will be built primarily for flower. But I'm using higher cct this time. So it could be used for veg too. But it will be my min flowe light in number 2 flower tent... and will be run through wireless switches from sonoff. Controlled with my phone.

    My first build.

    (10) Samsung F Series Gen 3s 3000k f562b in parallel, on a HLG-480H-24A driver. Maxed slam out 25.5vdc @20.00a 504watts. But I'm not running it that hard.

    (5) Samsung Sunboard strips 2700k 50w 96 Lm561c S3 diodes @24v running on a HLG-240H-24A driver.

    (4) custom made Red strips. 120 diodes. (60) HE Photo Red diodes, and (60) Far Red diodes. On a copper PCB strip. The diodes are alternated between the two for even blending. And they are run on a LPV-60-12 driver.

    The light rocks flowering. Yield, trich production, and penetration is very good. I'm not real big on super low voltages super efficient. I like bright ass lights that put out large frosty nugs.

    The heat sinks I made myself. I used thick wall 2x2 square aluminum extrusion tubing. 24" long that I cut on 3 sides. Every inch. And then mounted the strips on the uncut side. And installed a 45mm×45mm PC fan inside on one end. So it blows through the tubing. Keeps the strips extremely cool. Remote mounted all drivers in their own box outside the tent.

    Before the sunboard install. Tested on HLG320

    And now for the new build. Gonna be a mix of cobs, strips, pcb led boards. In an array of color temps.

    Strips will be delivered tomorrow.

    New build....

    (4) Samsung F Series Gen 3s in 4000k run on a HLG-185-24A

    (3) Samsung F Series Gen 3s in 3000k run on a HLG-150H-24A

    Or all (7) on a HLG-320H-24A I havent decided that yet. Arrow is out of stock on both the HLG185 and HLG150 drivers.

    The cobs are just extras I have laying around. So why not use em right. 1 is brand new. 2 I've used for a old veg light I built.

    (3) Cree CXA3050s in 4000k

    And I havent decided if I wanna use the el cheapo drivers I have laying around or buy new ones yet.

    If I run them on this driver. They will be in parallel all 3 run at 600mA @37vdc 22.2watts each.

    I have 4 of these drivers. They were hooked up 1 cree cob per driver. One cob got broke. But the drivers arent adjustable. So it runs them at 1800mA @37vdc 66.6watts and I dont wanna run them hard. Even though they max at 2.5a and are typ ar 1400mA. These arent the most efficient cobs. But I didnt pay for them or the drivers. So why not.

    And I'm also possibly gonna throw these pcbs in the mix. They are (40) double led diodes. In 4000k run in parallel on a 150w inventronics adjustable driver.. I believe they are Seoul smd3030 leds. But not certain. But they both run on the inventronics 150watt driver at full power. And stay pretty cool. But if I use them, I'll put a POT on the driver to turn em down some. The driver is present to 4200mA at roughly @35.7vdc but is adjustable from 385mA-5600mA and is roughly 90.2% efficient at full load.

    20181202_152451.jpg 20181202_152823.jpg

    So overall this light should light up some plants.
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2018

    whytewidow Well-Known Member

    Test fired the cxa3050s at 600mA on 42.5vdc these ladies are blinding bright. And only running at 25.5w

    Just doing default as maxed with no dimming I will dim everything some. And I'm gonna use artic alpine 64 plus heatsink n fans for cooling the cobs.

    So were gonna have:

    75w(+-) of 4k cree cobs
    131.8w(+-) of 3k f562b strips
    175.7w(+-) of 4k fb562b strips
    150w(+-) of 4k SMD3030 led panels

    These heatsinks are what I ordered. For the cobs. They cool 90watts worth of power. And I'm only gonna be running the cobs at 25.5w so they should do cool pretty good. And for the strips I ordered 1.00" extruded aluminum heatsinks from heatsinkusa.
    Screenshot_20181202-184102_Samsung Internet.jpg Screenshot_20181202-184053_Samsung Internet.jpg Screenshot_20181202-184038_Samsung Internet.jpg
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2018
    colocowboy, Randomblame and Vd22 like this.

    Vd22 Well-Known Member

    fuck yea ill stick around for this, i just spent bank loot on everything i need to make a few lights. for connecting to wagos what gauge wire do you use?
    whytewidow likes this.

    whytewidow Well-Known Member

    I use 18awg solid core on the light itself for any wire between cobs and strips. Then use 14awg for the ac side.

    whytewidow Well-Known Member

    Early xmas for me. Although the wife spent over 800 bucks on our kids so far. And it's only December 3rd. And I spent 88 bucks. And I'm the 3rd kid in this house. I feel left out and not loved as much. And toys r us closed. So I guess it's time to grow up. Heatsinks from heatsinkusa should b here sometime this week. Going to home depot today for that fancy French metal stuff. Alu-mini-um or just aluminum. And get this build started. Heatsinks for the cobs will be here Wednesday. Prime and their 2 day shipping is really 4 days. But that's ok. The wife doesnt know I'm gonna order some meat chips in 1750k to add to the cxa3050s in 4k. Uuuggghhhh I'm gonna need a bigger grow area.

    20181203_093300.jpg 20181203_093333.jpg 20181203_093352.jpg

    whytewidow Well-Known Member

    So anyone got an opinion on layout. I have 3 cobs. But being as I used 7 strips I cant get the 3rd cob dead center. So maybe I need another cob. And lay it out two cobs on each side. Like the 3rd pic.

    20181203_095803.jpg 20181203_100034.jpg 20181203_100304.jpg
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    Vd22 Well-Known Member

    Triangle or str8 across
    Id try to fit a triangle around center as far out as i could
    whytewidow likes this.

    Vd22 Well-Known Member

    You might as well start growing veggies if youre not already

    jarvild Well-Known Member

    My strips are blinding just running 1.1 amps to them.
    Randomblame and whytewidow like this.

    Plantinator Member

    Hallo guys,

    I am very interested in building my first DIY LED panel.
    I am thinking of COB CXB3590 for my build campared with Samsung F-serie strips.
    Do you think that the heatsink from above will be able to cool away the CXB3590 on 50 Watts?

    Thanks so far



    Plantinator Member

    Edit is not working ... thanks to the mods for understanding my double post then ...

    What do you guys think about LEDs emitting Hyper Reds and Deep Blue light? Here in Germany people are not very after this topics but I think that this something that should be kept in eyes.
    I was reading a very interesting topic about somebody who was using UVB (i think it was not UVA) for his plants and he was able to realize a much better taste than without the UVB LEDs.

    I was using the search for "hyper red", "deep blue" and so but not getting threads that were discussing this.

    So is there anybody who knows something about growing additionally with these lights or even using them?

    Thank you!

    whytewidow Well-Known Member

    So after picking @Randomblame brain a little bit. About this Inventronics driver. And its dimming capabilities. It is programmable. Through computer interface. So I'm ordering a programmer. In the software interface you can set it to power on 10% power. Then slowly build up to full power. Kindve like the sun rising. You dont get full sun at 6am. It gradually rises over the horizon. The drivers are CC drivers. One programmer will do unlimited amount of drivers. You jus plug it to your laptop. Open the software and set your current and voltage. And you can adjust the timing of and or power curve over a set time. And actually I believe can be set to turn off and on without external timer. The driver itself does it. So I may not need sonoffs. I found a datasheet for exact HLG replacements. And the inventronic drivers are a little cheaper than meanwell. So I think I'm gonna use these inventronics drivers for this light build over meanwells to see how they do. The only thing I have to buy is the programmer. Comes with allthe cables you need. For about 50 bucks plus shipping the software is a free download.

    Heres a video of adjusting the drivers.

    The programmer Screenshot_20181204-072116_Chrome.jpg
    SCJedi, Randomblame and jarvild like this.

    whytewidow Well-Known Member

    I've never used any hyper Leds. And alot of people use those reptile bulbs for UVB. They're somewhat cheap. And do the trick. You need to post this on a new thread to get more answers. This thread is just for my build. I dont mind you posted in here. But there wont be very many people who see your post unless they look at my build. But if you post your own thread in the led section more people will see it. Might get better answers.
    Randomblame and jarvild like this.

    Randomblame Well-Known Member

    These Arctic Alpine heatsinks would work pretty well with 50w COBs. Case temps <40°C, COB maybe 45-50°C Tj.
    At 25-35w you could use it without fans and the heatsink would stabilize between 50 and 60°C.
    Pin fin heatsinks are the best solution for passive cooling but they cost twice as much like such an ArcticAlpine.

    If you mix white and monos there is no need for additional blue diodes. White has already enough blue. Remember, it needs only 10PAR/w of blue wavelength per squaremeter to keep the plants short and bushy. If you want a good light look at the german Zeusboards from The XT boards need no heatsinks and can run with 3,5amps(140w). They use top bin Samsung LM301b and are on par with Quantumboards v2. They also have frames, hanging-kits and Osram strips with deep-red diodes SSL120 Oslons and Oslon Square to add them to the frame. Also a spectrum simulator exsists to get an idea of light output, efficiency, PPF and total power draw; pretty handy.

    UVA will improve the taste and change the terpene profiles in cannabis. It also increase antioxidants and is especially useful against insects cuz it destroys their dna and because insects can see it they avoid contact with UVA.
    UVB triggers the UVR8 receptor which tells the plant to switch in a kind of stealth/defense mode. In this mode she is growing more compact and stems are getting harder but most important is, the THC content will increase by up to 30%.
    A BlueDream tested with 17% THC increased its THC content to 23% by adding a dose of ~13,4kJ/m² every day and they have just used reptile bulbs.

    There are a few threads here in the LED section you should have a look at. Use the search engine and search for:
    - the math behind
    - far-red thread
    - UVA/UVB thread
    - LED's - how to power them

    I don't know which people you know in germany, bro! But in terms of LED's you seem to know the wrong ones, lol! Remember, Osram cooperated already with the NASA back in the 90's. Fluence, all Sanlight, Amare, Budmaster and many other commercials cooperate with Osram and use their diodes and all these fixtures are top notch from any POV.

    Yeah, with LED it takes a bit more than a few days to understand all the new topic and principles but believe me there are enough peeps in germany knowing their stuff. is probably one of the best source for LED's in germany and they are open for customer requests. You could ask them to build the strips according to your needs and it only adds 4€ tooling costs to the bill.
    boybelue, whytewidow and coreywebster like this.

    Randomblame Well-Known Member

    Nice video! Sad that they have no wifi or bluetooth connection to set them up via android/iOS app. But I like the sun rise/sun set and timer features. Pretty handy and you don't need separate timers anymore. Are you forced to switch all connected drivers at the same time or is it possible to create own lighting shedules for each driver?
    whytewidow likes this.

    whytewidow Well-Known Member

    You can do each driver separately. No need for power to them. Jus plug your laptop in. Adjust your settings. Then unplug from the driver and move on to the next one. And what's nice about it. You dont have to be connected to any wifi or internet to set it up. So say you have 3 grow areas. Take your laptop to your grow area. Plug in to your first driver. Set it. Unplug, move to the next driver. Plug in do your settings. Unplug move on to the next one. I use sonoffs niw wireless switches. I have wifi in my grow area. So I'm always connected to my grow area on my phone. I can shut it all down with the push of app button. So I may still use them to control the 120v power going to the drivers. And use them as a back up timer jus incase the driver programming would fail.
    Randomblame likes this.

    whytewidow Well-Known Member

    Basic layout for the strips. Debating on not using the cobs inbetween. I may order some bridgelux tunable strips. They have 2 rows (1) @2700k and (1) @5000k to put inbetween the sammys.
    20181204_092635.jpg 20181204_092955.jpg

    They are bridgelux Vesta Tunable strips. Thanks to @Randomblame for pointing them out to me.
    And they are relatively cheap. 5 bucks for 280mm and 10 bucks for 560mm.

    Screenshot_20181204-094020_Drive.jpg Screenshot_20181204-094043_Drive.jpg Screenshot_20181204-094059_Drive.jpg
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    Randomblame Well-Known Member

    Yeah, I also use Sonoffs. They are so cheap and handy and with the app you can control almost everything inside your groom. LED's, the far red trigger, UVB bulbs, ... Its like a central control center and far cheaper like the old Omnirex wall plug timers. All of them are still working and I had only 2 times issues when the server gets an update. But these usually takes a few hours and then its working again. The nice thing is they hold their programming even when switched of completely. When fired up again they still use the latest settings. Sad that the new ones have a closed bootloader and you can not use them with alternative firmwares anymore but I can life with it.

    What is you prefered hanging height? With +12" a COB in each corner can help to getter better uniformity. If you plan to use it 4-8" above the tops there is no need for that and the Vestas would increase the brightness across the whole surface. I like their CRI90 spectrum and when you run them at half current you get almost comparable efficiency. LER is probably ~280lm/w and 140lm/w means already 50% efficient. Not too shabby...
    whytewidow likes this.

    Plantinator Member

    Hi whytewidow, sorry for posting in your thread. Was getting confused with the tabs in the browser.

    Your panel is a beast. :clap: I will follow your thread cause I would like to build a big panel for my 4"x4" tent and still learning about this thing. That might be the reason why I dropped the comment here.
    Even if my english is quite good imho it is still hard for me to understand technical texts. But to be honest. What is discussed here on riu (or in american forums generally) and is the shit at the moment will be the shit some year later in europe when in america the next new thing is established.

    @Randomblame , a big thanks to you for your quick information about my questions. I will definitely go for your suggested key words on the search engine.


    GBAUTO Well-Known Member

    I've used the Vesta strips on a hack of my old King fixture. Set it up with a veg and flower power circuits so they are independent. Excellent option.
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2018
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