How to Read your Plants?

xivex

Active Member
That isn't accurate my friend.. I can think of one right off the top of my head :
amaranth palmeri

But it is a wondrous and unique plant...but botanically you grow it like most others...a big part of most people's problems, myself included is mystifying this species and making ourselves so certain that it is so different that the marketers can play upon it...the truth is it is a plant and from what I have been reading botanically it is one of the EASIER plants to grow!!!


Namaste':leaf:
And see this is why i enjy this community. People are helpful and share info. Thx for the correction, i had read that was true...always good to learn the truth my friend! :)

X
 

TaoWolf

Active Member
As a plant encounters through various stages of growth in it's life cycle, it's needs for nutrients also may change. It goes without saying, a mature plant will drink up a lot more nutrients than a seedling. As the plant takes in nutrients, one of two things happen to the level of solids in the reservoir; they either go up, resulting in higher ppms because more water than nutrients were used, or the ppms go down, because the plant is taking in more nutrients than water.

The third possible outcome is the level, or ratio of nutrients to water doesn't change. This happens when the plant has found a perfect balance of nutrients and water. It is this perfect balance that we should all strive for.

How do I read my plants and determine the proper ratio of nutrients and water? Herein lies the answer, memory or good records. You see, in order to determine what the plant is trying to tell us today, we need to know where we set the ppm level from the day before. We can determine whether the plant took in more food or more water by comparing today's PPM reading with yesterday's reading.

Let's use an example. Our hypothetical plant is 3 weeks into flower and we are getting excited. Anticipation is setting in as we witness the first developments of flowers. Yesterday, after topping the reservoir with fresh water and nutrients, the PPMs were 1100. Today, the water level is down some, as expected, because the plant's using water. Today's reading indicates that the ppm level is at 1300! What happened? How did it jump 200 points overnight?

If the plant is taking in more water than nutrients, it indicates that the nute level is too high and the roots and leaves could be damaged. Imagine a glass of salt water placed on the table in front of you. You can't see the salt, but you can taste it. Now imagine that very same glass of water after about half of it evaporated. The salt won't evaporate, as it is a dissolved solid, therefore the water will seem saltier, but in reality, it's just not as diluted; the same level of salt exists today that was in the glass yesterday.

Getting back to our hypothetical situation, overnight, we lost enough water to increase the 'saltiness' of our plant's water. In this case, we want to add fresh water and dilute the ppms down a level. Since we gained 200 ppm overnight, I want to get it down to about 950-1000 ppm and see what she does the following day. If I wake up and read a PPM reading of 1000, I hit my magic number for now, and can keep the ppms at 1000 until my plant tells me otherwise.

To imagine the opposite reaction, imagine that same glass of salt water mysteriously gaining an inch or two of fresh water. The water will be less salty, meaning lower PPMs. That would indicate the plant can use more food. this is the opportunity to increase yields and growth, if done correctly. Learn to read what your plant is trying to tell you, and you'll both benefit greatly.

(I did not proof read this, please feel free to point out any error or needed clarification)
That's great info to know. But wanted to add that one can roughly do the same kind of thing by monitoring pH (for those without an EC/TDS meter...) in hydroponic systems. If you know the base pH of your water (usually slightly basic to neutral) and the base pH of your nutrients (almost always slightly acidic), the rise or fall of the pH will be reflected in the net amount of 'feeding' versus 'drinking'. A plant that is 'feeding' more than 'drinking' will tend to result in a rising pH (the acidic nutrients are being removed form solution faster than the basic/neutral water is being removed). Or a plant that is drinking more than it is feeding will tend to have a falling pH as the nutrient solution becomes more concentrated.

Just like with monitoring TDS/EC, once you find that sort of a sweet-spot with nutrient strength - pH should be relatively stable as well (the ratio of water to elements remains even as the plant drinks and feeds at the same rate).
 

irieie

Well-Known Member
thanks for the responses on all accounts. this is proving to be the most informative and interesting threads in a while. on another note, how does plant canopy effect light penetration? how much light is absorbed by the leaf and how much passes through? how can you determine the optimal canopy thickness to maximize light output?
 

Wolverine97

Well-Known Member
That's great info to know. But wanted to add that one can roughly do the same kind of thing by monitoring pH (for those without an EC/TDS meter...) in hydroponic systems. If you know the base pH of your water (usually slightly basic to neutral) and the base pH of your nutrients (almost always slightly acidic), the rise or fall of the pH will be reflected in the net amount of 'feeding' versus 'drinking'. A plant that is 'feeding' more than 'drinking' will tend to result in a rising pH (the acidic nutrients are being removed form solution faster than the basic/neutral water is being removed). Or a plant that is drinking more than it is feeding will tend to have a falling pH as the nutrient solution becomes more concentrated.

Just like with monitoring TDS/EC, once you find that sort of a sweet-spot with nutrient strength - pH should be relatively stable as well (the ratio of water to elements remains even as the plant drinks and feeds at the same rate).
True, but there are other factors that can affect pH change. If you combine both pH, and TDS testing, you can really nail it down.
 

gilbert90605

Active Member
That's great info to know. But wanted to add that one can roughly do the same kind of thing by monitoring pH (for those without an EC/TDS meter...) in hydroponic systems. If you know the base pH of your water (usually slightly basic to neutral) and the base pH of your nutrients (almost always slightly acidic), the rise or fall of the pH will be reflected in the net amount of 'feeding' versus 'drinking'. A plant that is 'feeding' more than 'drinking' will tend to result in a rising pH (the acidic nutrients are being removed form solution faster than the basic/neutral water is being removed). Or a plant that is drinking more than it is feeding will tend to have a falling pH as the nutrient solution becomes more concentrated.

Just like with monitoring TDS/EC, once you find that sort of a sweet-spot with nutrient strength - pH should be relatively stable as well (the ratio of water to elements remains even as the plant drinks and feeds at the same rate).
tao this is what i was asking a few pages back.... this isnt as good as a ppm but if without one why not do it just to add that small fine tuning, right?
 

TaoWolf

Active Member
Yeah, totally agree.

pH and nutrient strength is tied together in the bigger picture (if you alter one you alter the other). So if the goal is to fine-tune anything, one should look at (and understand) what is going on with both. It's why you see so many people pointlessly chasing the pH on a daily basis, even after they think they have things dialed-in with their TDS meter.
 

AlteredEgo

Active Member
Thanks for this thread RiddleMe, I use plant behavior as a means of telling what is going on. I say "behavior" because, if you watch your plants over time, after various stimuli, you will begin to see their behavior. Just like RiddleMe does when "Making it rain", watching the relaxed look when flushing, then watching water uptake, and then providing nutrients.

As an example, when I have early clones, after about a week, I take the cover off a while. Since my humidity is normally around 10-15%, they will begin to wilt quickly, and after restoring the humidity, they perk right up. As they progress, they wilt less and less as the cover is removed, indicating they are developing roots, and after a few days, they will not wilt much at all after a short time in low humidity, so then I know there are roots under that sand, so I can transplant, keep them in humidity cover a while longer, and then they are viable on their own.

One thing I have noticed to be true, is a perceived increase in potency on plants that were vegged to a nice old age before flowering, when compared to a small young plant flowered at an earlier age. I say "perceived" because that is very subjective. I have two AK clones now, one flowered at about 14", the other is still growing, and if not LST'd, would be about 3" tall now. Still vegging, and will give a comparison after it is all said and done.

Laters Yall!
 

Yeah Right

Active Member
First off, I'm sure this is even the right thread to post this in but hear goes. When I decided to take the plunge into growing, I did what a lot of us have done. I bought Ed Rosenthal's MJ Growers handbook. I read it, front to back, several times. I read HT magazine as I'm sure lots of you do. I scoured the web looking for stuff to start growing with on a budget. Side note: I too play guitar and you can go off the deep end with gear and not deliver Randy Rhodes results. Yada Yada right? So my first grow was bag seed and I posted it here. https://www.rollitup.org/newbie-central/394524-time-flush-first-grow.html I read a bunch, watched videos, read on nutes, organics, genetics, etc. My grand parents were excellent gardeners as they fed themselves for years with things most only dream of growing. I used common sense and went slow. My second venture with bag seed FAIL. Third adventure with bag seed FAIL. Fourth go and my first real journal is here. https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/419477-cfl-grow-l-confidential.html There are several of the most knowledgeable people in growing cannabis on this forum and in this thread. I guess my point being, if you want the best quality cannabis that be grown in your current situation you need to work at it and use common sense. To many people want to dive in headfirst with 1000w of fire hazard and zero idea of why and how plants even grow. Thanks Riddle, Uncle Ben, Hobbes and way to many other with genuine advice that's purely common sense. Not trying to plug my threads or links, but in my new grow I'm slightly paranoid about a lighter green mottling within the leaves on my LA Con. But she really does look healthy otherwise. If you could glance at the later pics in that thread and give an opinion it would be cool.
 

rasputin71

Well-Known Member
First off, I'm sure this is even the right thread to post this in but hear goes. When I decided to take the plunge into growing, I did what a lot of us have done. I bought Ed Rosenthal's MJ Growers handbook. I read it, front to back, several times. I read HT magazine as I'm sure lots of you do. I scoured the web looking for stuff to start growing with on a budget. Side note: I too play guitar and you can go off the deep end with gear and not deliver Randy Rhodes results. Yada Yada right? So my first grow was bag seed and I posted it here. https://www.rollitup.org/newbie-central/394524-time-flush-first-grow.html I read a bunch, watched videos, read on nutes, organics, genetics, etc. My grand parents were excellent gardeners as they fed themselves for years with things most only dream of growing. I used common sense and went slow. My second venture with bag seed FAIL. Third adventure with bag seed FAIL. Fourth go and my first real journal is here. https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/419477-cfl-grow-l-confidential.html There are several of the most knowledgeable people in growing cannabis on this forum and in this thread. I guess my point being, if you want the best quality cannabis that be grown in your current situation you need to work at it and use common sense. To many people want to dive in headfirst with 1000w of fire hazard and zero idea of why and how plants even grow. Thanks Riddle, Uncle Ben, Hobbes and way to many other with genuine advice that's purely common sense. Not trying to plug my threads or links, but in my new grow I'm slightly paranoid about a lighter green mottling within the leaves on my LA Con. But she really does look healthy otherwise. If you could glance at the later pics in that thread and give an opinion it would be cool.
 

Murfy

Well-Known Member
as in full circle-

we were hollerin at ya over at that pricing gig. pretty funny really.LOL
 

boneheadbob

Well-Known Member
Mister Riddle!!
I am a new MM cardholder from AZ. Thanks for all the great stuff you have taken the time to post.
I have noticed that people can grow dank doing it this way or doing it that way and you can usually find someone who swears by doing things a different way which works well for them.

My question is about lightleaks. I read where you have TV playing, house lights getting turned on, probaly lots of bright led lights on your entertainment stuff, (they get real bright after you have sat in the dark for ten minutes.

Is my memory correct about your statement? I appreciate more info on this. I admit to being a newbie, nonetheless my gut is telling me its overblown.
 

Illumination

New Member
Mister Riddle!!
I am a new MM cardholder from AZ. Thanks for all the great stuff you have taken the time to post.
I have noticed that people can grow dank doing it this way or doing it that way and you can usually find someone who swears by doing things a different way which works well for them.

My question is about lightleaks. I read where you have TV playing, house lights getting turned on, probaly lots of bright led lights on your entertainment stuff, (they get real bright after you have sat in the dark for ten minutes.

Is my memory correct about your statement? I appreciate more info on this. I admit to being a newbie, nonetheless my gut is telling me its overblown.

Yes it is a bit overblown but I wish to add that one should strive for complete darkness during lights out in flower and it seems even moreso if using fem seeds....I have never had the problem as mine is totally light proof....but yes it is a bit overblown by some but it is important as well...just get it dark as possible if you cant have it complete...there is a vast array of opinions as to how much light it takes( have read 100 -1000 lumens so who knows really?)and I rather be sure than sorry I made my area light proof...hope it helps

Namaste':eyesmoke:
 

boneheadbob

Well-Known Member
Illumination

I did my best however once in awhile I may not close things up as well as I should. I was also just curious. Riddle seems to know what he is doing and I wanted to hear more about his thoughts.
Should I PM him? I have not PMed anyone yet being a newbie and anything I need to say can be said here.
 

riddleme

Well-Known Member
Illumination

I did my best however once in awhile I may not close things up as well as I should. I was also just curious. Riddle seems to know what he is doing and I wanted to hear more about his thoughts.
Should I PM him? I have not PMed anyone yet being a newbie and anything I need to say can be said here.
I get pm's everyday, so bring it on
 

boneheadbob

Well-Known Member
Post #152 is my PM.
Is there anywhere on your threads that you discuss the issue more in depth.
I thought it was "relaxing" that you dont fret over your plants and light leaks. Growing should be rewarding to your mind and soul, not a constant worry in the back of your head.
 

riddleme

Well-Known Member
Mister Riddle!!
I am a new MM cardholder from AZ. Thanks for all the great stuff you have taken the time to post.
I have noticed that people can grow dank doing it this way or doing it that way and you can usually find someone who swears by doing things a different way which works well for them.

My question is about lightleaks. I read where you have TV playing, house lights getting turned on, probaly lots of bright led lights on your entertainment stuff, (they get real bright after you have sat in the dark for ten minutes.

Is my memory correct about your statement? I appreciate more info on this. I admit to being a newbie, nonetheless my gut is telling me its overblown.
all completely true, that old grow your refering to where I grew one plant on a stand next to my tv in my livingroom was awhile back, I now have a new house and a new growroom but I still go down in the basement after lights out and yes I turn lights on though they are little 13 watters, I never think nothing of it, the plants always tell me when they are upset :)
 

Yeah Right

Active Member
All the talk of light leaks is making me wonder where I saw a few comments on how light it really is at night out in the wilds. Having had the fortune of traveling the world on Uncle Sam's dime, I can relate to a lot of what was said. Oh, well I've killed a few brain cells over the years. Basically, it was a common sense, think about how dark it isn't in the middle of nowhere. I love stumbling onto Myth Buster kind of shit.
 

TheLastWood

Well-Known Member
Anyone else think plants are adapting to there environment?

A plant that gets complete darkness for its entire life may be affected more by a light leak, than one grown with constant light leaks or "light nights".
 
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