Harvest a Pound Every Three Weeks!

Discussion in 'Hydroponics / Aeroponics' started by StinkBud, Oct 5, 2008.

  1.  
    StinkBud

    StinkBud Well-Known Member

    You're stoked bro! Once you get the system dialed in it's amazing! I've never seen growth rates that can match aeroponics.
     
    BleedsGreen likes this.
  2.  
    StinkBud

    StinkBud Well-Known Member

    Russet Motherfuckers
    Watch out for russet mites! They are too small to see with the naked eye so you have to look for the effects. The first sign is leaves that curl, twist or bend in weird directions. The plant's growth will slow and soon after the plant will die. There are a lot of bad pests out there but russets and broad mites are the worst.

    Here's what you do... Buy a cheap digital microscope so you can check to see if you have russets. They look like little maggots with 4 legs that come out the front that they use to pull themselves around with.

    If you see the little fuckers buy some Nuke Em and spray twice a day for 3 days. Don't forget to turn your lights off when you spray and if you're growing in soil, make sure you completely saturate the soil with water first!!! Let the plants fill up with water and you'll never see any leaf burn.
     
    coreywebster and OneHitDone like this.
  3.  
    ugmjfarmer

    ugmjfarmer Well-Known Member

    I have heard of great success fighting russet infestation by raising room temperatures to 120F for 30 minutes and dusting the plants with diatomaceous earth. Have you seen anyone use this method? It works two ways, one the little guys cannot stand the temperature and even 10 minutes is instant death. Diatoms work to shred them to pieces if as try to run and hide in the great dash to find a cooler spot. The caution is those high temperatures should not be combined with high light levels. The plants should respond by closing stomata and essentially put themselves into protection mode further activating SAR. Leave the diatomaceous earth on the plants for three days, then wash it off with water and continue a state-approved IPM method.
     
    OneHitDone likes this.
  4.  
    Haze the maze

    Haze the maze Well-Known Member

    Great read stinkbud I'm going to give it a try in My new grow area
    Thanks!
     
  5.  
    Ednun

    Ednun Member

    Amazing really... I come across this thread and started reading from page 1. Before I got to page 50 I learn of a family member coming down with cancer. I start going through the sacred stash and send off what I have, then I learn of 2 more people within the next 2 weeks whom I could help. I'd better get my grow going!!! I would really like to thank the contributors of this thread who have made me (an upstart newb) believe that I can provide some help to these people in desperate need. I still know very little about this but have heard and read over and over that genetics are key. I'll be starting out with seeds I purchased from Nirvana, Greenpoint, Herbies, and some other place I forgot. I hope I've chosen well (I'll be honest, some I bought simply because they were on sale).

    Chem 4
    Chemdawg
    Stardawg
    Blueberry
    Bubblicious
    Northern Lights
    And AK 48

    Again, thank you for sharing your hard-earned knowledge, victories, mistakes, and ideas.
     
    zypheruk likes this.
  6.  
    Keesje

    Keesje Well-Known Member

    Although this is one of my favourite topics, it is too loooooooong
     
  7.  
    Keesje

    Keesje Well-Known Member

    I was looking for a timer that can do 5 minutes off/1minute on.
    Hard to find for a low price, and even harder to find for 220/240.
    So I modified one of those timers that you can plug in.
    Very cheap at Home Depot, Target, Walmart, etc.

    The black pins can be pushed up, and every pin pushed up stands for 15 minutes that an appliance that you plugged in gets no electricity.
    In other words, if you would plug in a pump on it, the pump would not work for 15 minutes at the times that you pushed up the black pins.

    [​IMG]

    Not all of them are the same outside and inside, but the principle is the same.
    Once you open them up the inside will be visable.

    [​IMG]

    In the lower right corner you see the box with the gears.
    That is where you can make an easy modification.
    The basis of how such a timer works is that a tiny electromotor spins very fast.
    Through a set of gears the speed is reduced, like in a transmission or gear box in a car.
    In such a way that the last gear on the end of the line in the system (the blue one that sticks out) turns around in such a slow way that it makes the outside clock (the bigger black/white wheel with the pins on the outside) turns 360 degrees in exactly 24 hours.

    By removing one of the wheels in the gearbox, the result will be that blue gear will turn faster.
    For example in such a way that the black/white wheel will turn 360 degrees in just 1 hour or half an hour.
    Normally your timer has 96 periods of 15 minutes.
    But after the modification for example 96 periodes of 30 seconds.

    Before I start posting more pics, I would like to know if anyone is interested in how to modify.
    I don't want to mess up this thread just for nothing.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2018
    Mr.Jiujitsu, DREGER and Haze the maze like this.
  8.  
    Haze the maze

    Haze the maze Well-Known Member

    I would like to know all though I don't use 220 in Canada.
     
    DREGER likes this.
  9.  
    Keesje

    Keesje Well-Known Member

    ok...
    All the gears are in this transparant box.
    The transparent box you can carefully remove from the timer.
    Be carefull because it is stuck to the coil and that is attached to some power wires.

    [​IMG]

    Then carefully remove the lid from the transparent box.
    On the side there are 2 clips that you gently push and then you can remove the lid / top.
    Do it carefully because otherwise the axes and cogs will come loose.
    What is going to happen is that the coil stays on the wires, and that the small black disc stays in the box.

    [​IMG]

    When the lid is removed, you see that all cogs are - luckily for this explanation - differently colored.
    Handle with careful because everything sits actually loose in the box.

    [​IMG]
     
    BleedsGreen and DREGER like this.
  10.  
    Keesje

    Keesje Well-Known Member

    As said, the way to adjust is that you remove 1 cog.
    Now you can not just remove some wheels. You have to make sure that the upper part keeps running.
    In the photo the pink cog with the blue part on it.
    To achieve this, you will fix them on the underlying white cog on the same axis.

    The yellow cog goes into the trash.

    However, you must ensure that the blue part will stick out of the box at the same height.
    Because otherwise it will no longer make contact with the black/white clock.

    To maintain that height, I'm going to glue a rubber ring / washer between the pink cog and the underlying white cog.

    Now I had a cover cap, and by cutting off the 'hat' from it I kept a ring with exactly the right thickness and diameter.
    I was happy with that because otherwise I should have searched for something else.
    I use rubber because it is not heavy and because if you would drop the timer, hopefully it will not come off immediately.
    But I think that just a plastic ring/washer would work too.

    It is important that the washer has the right thickness. Too big and the blue part will be stuck in in the box, too thin and the blue part will not stick out of the transparant box far enough.
    Also the diameter of the washer can not be too wide or too small.
    But there are so many sizes in shops that it must be easy to find one.

    [​IMG]

    Then you carefully take the cogs off, one by one.

    First the upper part, which actually consists of 2 parts.
    The blue part is on the pink part. The blue part can turn inside the pink part, but only in one direction ; then you hear the rattling.
    If you want to turn it the other way, it blocks.

    [​IMG]

    Then the yellow cog that you do not need anymore

    [​IMG]

    And finally the white cog that becomes the base plate of a new, thicker, cogwheel.

    [​IMG]


    In the box you can see all the axes still standing upright. They are in cut-outs in the bottom part of the box, and you can take them if you want. But don't. It sucks to get them back.
     
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2018
  11.  
    Keesje

    Keesje Well-Known Member

    As said, the white cog is the basis of a new gear to be made.
    Before that, I put a needle (a slightly thicker one would have been even better) in a piece of cork.
    I can then slide the cog on it.
    Some drops of superglue on the flat part of the cog ....
    Then slide the rubber washer on the needle and press the washer firmly on the gear.
    Make sure the rubber ring/washer is nicely centered.

    [​IMG]

    If you are sure that it is fixed, put a few drops of glue on the rubber ring.
    Spread it out.
    Then slide the pink cog on the needle, on top of the rubber ring.
    The needle ensures that they are all well centered.
    Press firmly.

    [​IMG]

    I do not glue the cogs and the rubber ring together while they are on the axle, because if there is some glue leaking, your whole gear is stuck.
    In the way I do it, you can always pull the needle away, if something glue drops in the whole in the middle.
    I also keep the blue part away from the glue because it is important that it can still move freely in the pink cog later on.

    When the glue is dry, you have 1 big thick gear consisting of 3 layers, with - separately - the blue part.

    [​IMG]
     
  12.  
    Keesje

    Keesje Well-Known Member

    Then you put the thick gear back on the shaft in the box.
    Just check whether everything runs smoothly and whether it is in place in connection to the other gears.

    [​IMG]


    Click the lid back onto the box.
    This is sometimes a bit of a hassle because the metal part at the coil has to be put in place again.
    This part is partially clamped between the two halves of the plastic box.
    The axles must also fall into the openings in the lid of the box.
    But actually it goes pretty smoothly if you are not too hurried.

    Then place the box back in the housing of the timer.

    [​IMG]

    Before you close the timer, you have to pay attention to whether a little handle is also in place. And also make sure that the slide switch which is actually just loosely clamped between the 2 halves of the time switch, is also in place

    [​IMG]

    I have tried to show it as clearly as possible, with hopefully usable photos.
    The words will probably not always correct, but I hope it will be clear anyway.

    Of course every timer will look a bit different on the inside, but the principle stays the same.
    This is a European timer, but US, Canadian or Australian are almost the same.
     
    BleedsGreen and Haze the maze like this.
  13.  
    CannaSynergy

    CannaSynergy Active Member

    how would a microgrow syystem liek this one be built could it be done with seeds and not clones as well ??
     
  14.  
    Haze the maze

    Haze the maze Well-Known Member

    Nice work.
     
    Mr.Jiujitsu likes this.
  15.  
    Keesje

    Keesje Well-Known Member

    Question for the people using StinkBud's system...

    The cycle for the pump is 1 minute on, and 5 minutes off.
    But did any one of you try to have the pump off for longer?

    Either by mistake or on purpose.
    I am wondering for how long roots - in a mediumless setting - can stay dry.
     
  16.  
    dstroy

    dstroy Well-Known Member

    yes, you start the seeds inside of a paper towel inside of a netpot covered with a collar and wait until the taproot is long enough to stick out of the bottom of the neoprene collar, then pick it up with tweezers gently where the taproot has begun to change color near the seed husk and gingerly place it into the center of the collar ensuring you do not pinch it. easy mediumless seed starting for small batches. larger batches this requires a lot of labor and you should consider some other way.
     
  17.  
    Granthony

    Granthony Member

    How do you get the plants out of the veg unit and into the flower unit? I’ve done a version of this before and the roots tangle together insanely fast
     
  18.  
    420Barista

    420Barista Well-Known Member

    roots can be cut, they grow back
     
  19.  
    Keesje

    Keesje Well-Known Member

    They can, but the chance of infection or disease gets bigger this way.
     
  20.  
    BleedsGreen

    BleedsGreen Well-Known Member

    I have never had any issues with root rot or other root problems transferring from Veg to flower rails and I know I have clipped many a root in this process, Hell I have busted roots just changing water in the veg units as the wrap all around the manifold. I do not use whiteshark, hydropguard or any of those either just some pondzeme with barley at every water change keeps the dreaded sludge away for me. Good luck!
     

Share This Page