Just got some of their new saber strips and they came with some waterproof screw on connections but didn't include a female end and they don't provide any links on what they are or where to order the other end to connect them. HLG is also notoriously slow to reply to me even tho I've spent literally thousands with them... So anyone have any idea how I can connect these? Lol
DIY with Quantum Boards
- Thread starter robincnn
- Start date
coreywebster
Well-Known Member
How much you spend doesn't influence response time. They are just busy busy.
Have you tried contacting them on here as well as by email and using the contact form on their site?
Have you tried contacting them on here as well as by email and using the contact form on their site?
Or just ringing them?
TerpyTyrone
Well-Known Member
@HydroRed by attaching the frame to the ground lead on the AC input, its recommended to help in case any power surge happened along the neutral side of the AC input. I don't wanna fry my 200+$ rig. This sure wouldn't hurt.
This is all assuming the driver is mounted to the frame.
If the driver is outside the tent. Then it's irrelevant right?
A previous poster mentioned not using solid for long runs that may be moved. All houses use solid wire? Hmm. If I wire staple it every foot or so I dobt see it moving.
AC and DC are two dufferent beasts. I'm not telling u my electrical exp. Just know I'm willing to bend over backwards to support the use of higher AWG for long runs blah blah blah. But there comes a pount where over kill is just way to over kill. These drivers draw how many amps at full tilt? Way under 10 amps. 14awg rated to 15 amps? 150% ok but that seems excessive. Arent most extension cords 14 or 16?
I just wanna learn to build qb rigs.
Heres My first go at IT
This is all assuming the driver is mounted to the frame.
If the driver is outside the tent. Then it's irrelevant right?
A previous poster mentioned not using solid for long runs that may be moved. All houses use solid wire? Hmm. If I wire staple it every foot or so I dobt see it moving.
AC and DC are two dufferent beasts. I'm not telling u my electrical exp. Just know I'm willing to bend over backwards to support the use of higher AWG for long runs blah blah blah. But there comes a pount where over kill is just way to over kill. These drivers draw how many amps at full tilt? Way under 10 amps. 14awg rated to 15 amps? 150% ok but that seems excessive. Arent most extension cords 14 or 16?
I just wanna learn to build qb rigs.
Heres My first go at IT
TerpyTyrone
Well-Known Member
GreeneryBob
Well-Known Member
ok pop22, grounding/bonding the fixture is an important safety precaution, even if it's a DC circuit, but it isn't something you need to do to make the circuit operate. If a wire loosens and comes in contact with bare metal, the ground can save your life....yes, even in a DC system. If your voltage is low enough, maybe it is less of a concern, but at near 200v DC, I'm gonna ground the shit out of my lights.
#14 for almost zero heat losses through the cable, smaller would work, but not as well.
GreeneryBob
Well-Known Member
TokenBlackGuyIC
Member
R spec boards are coming May 14th!
I totally get that... you said the electrical code gives bare minimums. I said not true safety margins are calculated into the code.
The increase in efficiency is almost negligible in most applications not requiring very long runs.
We are not using underrated wiring but recommended and you are comparing using overrated wiring
This is an example: wattage loss through wiring = heat. The loss of a couple watts will create heat. How much of a temp difference will a few watts contribute to heating a room that's say 12x12x8? I'm not going to calculate this but i would say something like 0.001F?
I'm just gonna leave it. I have my opinions and you have yours and i can respect that we do things differently.
HydroRed
Well-Known Member
I wouldnt say irrelevant since if a lead is exposed and touches the frame, your gonna get lit up. If the driver is mounted to the frame, the driver itself will ground if grounded properly at the ac earth ground. As for solid wire, I wouldnt use it for a setup that will be getting moved, bumped etc etc. The solid wire isnt flexible in that aspect and may break inside of the insulation if moved too much over time. As mentioned, the solid wire in your home is stapled in place so it isnt being moved or disturbed. I suppose the same could be said if you took the same precautions for your build.
Ya I called, emailed, insta dm'd, now posting here is step 4..
Just so weird to not disclose it was going to have this connector then not provide the female end or some pig tails.. or a link to where to buy them at least. Guess if it comes down to it they can just be chopped off to raw wire.. haha
Mikenike
Well-Known Member
Yeah I’m in the same boat. I’ve asked them some questions and the few replies that I got were only to part of my message. I found the same connectors online but they’re 500pcs min order. Bought 10 saber strips and some far red, I was hoping for at least some customer service After spending about $1300. Have you tried unscrewing it at the strip? Was gonna just cut the connector and wire it like that too.Ya I called, emailed, insta dm'd, now posting here is step 4..
Just so weird to not disclose it was going to have this connector then not provide the female end or some pig tails.. or a link to where to buy them at least. Guess if it comes down to it they can just be chopped off to raw wire.. haha
pop22
Well-Known Member
Just an FYI, HLG Series drivers have internal short circuit, over voltage, and over heat protection.
pop22
Well-Known Member
daveybc
Well-Known Member
I am guilty of not complete my grounding. Since I have a HLG100 watt powering my middle board attached to the frame. I was planning on linking all the fixtures with a ground wire. I also scratch ( with sandpaper )my anodized heatsink a little and the frame to ensurer proper grounding. I was going to secure with zap strap the 18awg solid wire to the frame to prevent any stress from wire to molex. When moving lights up/down the stress point could be on the molex to copper wire. I will do this soon as this crop finishes up.I don't move my fixtures much maybe 12", 2 times through a grow. If i need to take up slack or give I just pull the wire a little from just outside tent, it slides very easy. I don't believe this solid wire will ever crack under this circumstance.
I remove these fixtures after each run to clean room and blow off fixture with compressed air
If running UV it may be wise to follow Greenerybob and get #14 SOOW as UV can dry out the coating and erode.
As you can see I can get access into the tent from the right side and in fact go stand in there if I need ( need to move a couple plants though to stand ). The plants on the left get less leaf maintenance for sure. btw I usually top my plants but let the terminals grow this run.
Some of the rigs I seen built, you would need to raise and lower the lights more often ( unless you had access to all sides of tent ). This is when stranded wire may be a better choice for some. Then bond stranded to solid for the final board connection.
I put a voltage calculator on the #18 vs #14 and the difference on a short run is like a small fraction of a percent not 1 %. If there was 1% that would be a fair bit. It seems most are with in specs which is the key, just different preferences. Happy growing..
I remove these fixtures after each run to clean room and blow off fixture with compressed air
If running UV it may be wise to follow Greenerybob and get #14 SOOW as UV can dry out the coating and erode.
As you can see I can get access into the tent from the right side and in fact go stand in there if I need ( need to move a couple plants though to stand ). The plants on the left get less leaf maintenance for sure. btw I usually top my plants but let the terminals grow this run.
Some of the rigs I seen built, you would need to raise and lower the lights more often ( unless you had access to all sides of tent ). This is when stranded wire may be a better choice for some. Then bond stranded to solid for the final board connection.
I put a voltage calculator on the #18 vs #14 and the difference on a short run is like a small fraction of a percent not 1 %. If there was 1% that would be a fair bit. It seems most are with in specs which is the key, just different preferences. Happy growing..
Attachments
Bubblin
Well-Known Member
I just use this stuff, it's cheap and badass.
Anchor marine grade - 18ga / 600v / tinned-stranded / uv resistant.
https://www.amazon.com/Ancor-Marine-Grade-Primary-Battery/dp/B000NUYGJI/?th=1&psc=1
daveybc
Well-Known Member
I am looking into a quick release system( from solid board cable to home run cable to driver ). I was thinking of those "spade connectors" but Wago's could work as well I suppose. Or even a electrical male/female plug. Has anyone had bad experience with Wago's being used for a quick release? do they ever wear out? As mentioned, I like to remove the fixture 3-4 times a year for cleaning and don't want to keep removing the Molex connector/wire., just keep that solid #18 strapped and permanent. If i ever go UV I will upgrade the home run cable.
Any feedback on reusing Wago's for termination 3or4 times a year? Thanks
PS"home run" cable has nothing to do with your "home". just a direct cable run.
Any feedback on reusing Wago's for termination 3or4 times a year? Thanks
PS"home run" cable has nothing to do with your "home". just a direct cable run.
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pop22
Well-Known Member
I've changed configuration several times, re-using my wagos. I see no problems with them. I use the lever style wago, they're fairly heavy duty IMO.
TerpyTyrone
Well-Known Member
I think the qb132 is awesomeeeeee
TerpyTyrone
Well-Known Member
Any ideas how I should run 2 qb288's.
They have so many options. In series as well . I'm new to understanding how resistance is used to reduce overall wattage.
I= v/r?
They have so many options. In series as well . I'm new to understanding how resistance is used to reduce overall wattage.
I= v/r?