DIY with Quantum Boards

[GreeneryBob]

Here is a picture of my 18 gauge solid copper. I find it not too rigid. Perhaps 16 or 14 gauge would be more of a problem. Personally I would minimize connections and just use solid.

Edit: I only raise/lower my lights 3 or 4 time during a grow. THe rigidity of the wire never even crossed my mind as a problem with the 18 gauge solid wire. I sure you will find different preferred ways on this subject.

I am an electrician.
What you want for the runs between lights and driver is #14 (or larger) SOOW, then drop down to #18 solid for termination to the molex connectors, that cable is rated for all kinds of abuse, high and low temps, UV, chemical spills, 600v, etc.
Go to any electrical wholesaler or building supply store and they can hook you up.

PS, ask for 3 wire as it is a flexible cord/not a cable, so a ground isn't automatically included.

 

[led1k]

I use 18 gauge doorbell wire, it's already in a twisted pair

18 gauge solid core wire. Probably grab it at the hardware store in the bulk wire section. most often called thermostat wire.

Bigger is better with wire so I would use 14 or even 12 gauge for runs. Stranded is easier to move around for sure!

 

[durbanblue]

Anyone got an idea if the R-spec boards are going to be put up for the DIY section on HLG website or are they only going to be sold as part of the 550?

 

[TokenBlackGuyIC]

Anyone got an idea if the R-spec boards are going to be put up for the DIY section on HLG website or are they only going to be sold as part of the 550?

No idea. Someone did ask on HLG instagram recently but HLG hasn't answered. I would call them direct or send an email, i have heard customers in the past being able to purchase items that are not on the website.

 

[daveybc]

Thanks for the input. That wire looks good for the application. If my runs were longer or I have UV ( which could be in the future ), I believe this to be necessary. It would be about voltage loss for the distance I believe. My runs are 12'-14' long 18 gauge solid from driver. I found a Voltage Drop Calculator for DC at Calculator.net and it certainly indicates less loss with the #14 for sure ( almost none ). It also indicated the #18 is well within specs ( very little ) at 14'.

When you indicated: "PS, ask for 3 wire as it is a flexible cord/not a cable, so a ground isn't automatically included."

Question: THe 3rd wire in the #14 (or larger) SOOW, could be used to ground the fixture? Correct.

I had a spare box of solid 18 awg sitting around so this was no cost basically. I have always been one to minimize connections ( tel\data mindset ) but what you are recommending is a very good idea. Especially if i had to go out to purchase wire, may as well future proof.

Great input. Thanks again.

I am an electrician.
What you want for the runs between lights and driver is #14 (or larger) SOOW, then drop down to #18 solid for termination to the molex connectors, that cable is rated for all kinds of abuse, high and low temps, UV, chemical spills, 600v, etc.
Go to any electrical wholesaler or building supply store and they can hook you up.

PS, ask for 3 wire as it is a flexible cord/not a cable, so a ground isn't automatically included.

 

[Mikenike]

Wondering if anyone had any idea of how I could wire this. Hlg’s Saber strip. Doing 5 strips in parallel to a 480h-36a driver. Should I try to unscrew the wire and wire my own directly to the strip or should I cut off the connector they provided then wire from there? Or try to find the matching connector then wire in parallel like that?

 

[pop22]

Explain to me why a low amperage DC circuit like this would need 14 gauge wire, that's overkill IMO. From the charts I've looked at, 18 gauge stranded wire is rated to 10 amps, so lets be conservative and say 7.5 amps safely. I'm using 12' of 18g with a max load of 2.8 amps. seems well within range to me and the length will induce minimal losses.

 

[maxlev]

18 gauge stranded wire works good for me on HLG QB`s, soldered at each end to fit connectors nicely

I have a ChilLed Gen 2 light that has thinner wires soldered to the board & it functions perfect

 

[GreeneryBob]

You can get by with smaller wire, yes.
You can get by with mars lights as well, but why would you?
Would you put Walmart tires on a Ferrari?
Upsizing your wiring and using a higher quality hard usage type cable makes it more efficient, safer, and nicer looking. A couple extra bucks is worth it to me.

 

[Aqua Man]

I'

You can get by with smaller wire, yes.
You can get by with mars lights as well, but why would you?
Would you put Walmart tires on a Ferrari?
Upsizing your wiring and using a higher quality hard usage type cable makes it more efficient, safer, and nicer looking. A couple extra bucks is worth it to me.

I'm not an electrician but a millwright by trade how would this make it more efficient by any measurable amount?

Safer? i mean how much are we bending and moving these cables that the potential for a break is an issue? If you are I would say the system is poorly designed or installed no?

What makes it higher quality?

Nicer looking? how does this effect performance? kind of a personal preference no?

I'm not trying to be argumentative but I always found that when people make irrelevant comparisons they are just grasping at straws trying to justify their statement. They can't find a logical statement that pertains to what they are dealing with so they need to venture off to other comparisons.

I mean what does a mars light have to do with stranded or solid core wire and what are you even comparing it to?

Lets be real its likely that none of us have driven ferrari's

Added: I mean by your logic of comparisons if i need a bucket thats holds 5 gal of water I should be buying a 20 Gal bucket. I guess we are all doing it wrong?

I mean the comparisons you made

If i'm wrong please correct me I have no problem admitting and learning from it.

 

[GreeneryBob]

I'


I'm not an electrician but a millwright by trade how would this make it more efficient by any measurable amount?

Safer? i mean how much are we bending and moving these cables that the potential for a break is an issue? If you are I would say the system is poorly designed or installed no?

What makes it higher quality?

Nicer looking? how does this effect performance? kind of a personal preference no?

I'm not trying to be argumentative but I always found that when people make irrelevant comparisons they are just grasping at straws trying to justify their statement. They can't find a logical statement that pertains to what they are dealing with so they need to venture off to other comparisons.

I mean what does a mars light have to do with stranded or solid core wire and what are you even comparing it to?

Lets be real its likely that none of us have driven ferrari's

Added: I mean by your logic of comparisons if i need a bucket thats holds 5 gal of water I should be buying a 20 Gal bucket. I guess we are all doing it wrong?

I mean the comparisons you made

If i'm wrong please correct me I have no problem admitting and learning from it.

1.) Solid core wire is meant for installations that are not moved around.
2.) Having cables rated for damp locations installed in damp location just makes sense.
3.) Upsizing your wiring, especially for longer runs keeps the cable from generating heat and heat losses, yes smaller than #14 works for plenty of applications but for the extra few bucks and the ability to upsize your installation later, especially on your main lighting setup, why not?
4.) The electrical codes give us bare minimums for wire sizing and if you are wanting to build the best light possible, step it up.

 

[pop22]

Next he'll try to convince us that $199 speaker cables make your audio system sound better....... And I was an electricians apprentice at one time, I did manage to learn a little. And again, this is a DC circuit, it needs no third wire, which would merely be a waste of copper when used with these lights. There is nothing inferior about 18G stranded wire when it is used within its specifications. Seems to me, if your an electrician you need to brush upon your DC circuits. And I'm talking wiring lights in a tent, not an open room, although it would still work just fine as long as the runs were not too long. Match the materials to the jobs is what I was taught.

I'


I'm not an electrician but a millwright by trade how would this make it more efficient by any measurable amount?

Safer? i mean how much are we bending and moving these cables that the potential for a break is an issue? If you are I would say the system is poorly designed or installed no?

What makes it higher quality?

Nicer looking? how does this effect performance? kind of a personal preference no?

I'm not trying to be argumentative but I always found that when people make irrelevant comparisons they are just grasping at straws trying to justify their statement. They can't find a logical statement that pertains to what they are dealing with so they need to venture off to other comparisons.

I mean what does a mars light have to do with stranded or solid core wire and what are you even comparing it to?

Lets be real its likely that none of us have driven ferrari's

Added: I mean by your logic of comparisons if i need a bucket thats holds 5 gal of water I should be buying a 20 Gal bucket. I guess we are all doing it wrong?

I mean the comparisons you made

If i'm wrong please correct me I have no problem admitting and learning from it.

 

[GreeneryBob]

Next he'll try to convince us that $199 speaker cables make your audio system sound better....... And I was an electricians apprentice at one time, I did manage to learn a little. And again, this is a DC circuit, it needs no third wire, which would merely be a waste of copper when used with these lights. There is nothing inferior about 18G stranded wire when it is used within its specifications. Seems to me, if your an electrician you need to brush upon your DC circuits. And I'm talking wiring lights in a tent, not an open room, although it would still work just fine as long as the runs were not too long. Match the materials to the jobs is what I was taught.

Third wire is for a ground, young apprentice. You should ground your lighting rigs, this helps you to not die. Short runs of small diameter wire is fine but upsizing is always good.

Using rated in-wall speaker wire in walls makes sense as does having larger diameter wiring for longer runs...using fancy branded wiring does nothing.

 

[Aqua Man]

1.) Solid core wire is meant for installations that are not moved around.
2.) Having cables rated for damp locations installed in damp location just makes sense.
3.) Upsizing your wiring, especially for longer runs keeps the cable from generating heat and heat losses, yes smaller than #14 works for plenty of applications but for the extra few bucks and the ability to upsize your installation later, especially on your main lighting setup, why not?
4.) The electrical codes give us bare minimums for wire sizing and if you are wanting to build the best light possible, step it up.

1) Agree. What on this is moving around more than a tiny bit at usually very few intervals a year. I addressed this in my last post it not enough to justify the need of stranded wire like robotics would. There is something wrong with the installation if this is a problem
2) Agree with this point to a degree but lets be real if the humidity is the reason should we not replace all connectors with explosion proof connectors first off? and explosion proof boxes for junctions?
3) Its recommended for a reason and has been calculated. I agree there is nothing wrong with larger wire especially with long runs but this can be calculated and I wouldn't say for that length of run it would become even close to a recommendation of #14 or larger. I'm to lazy at this point to go do calculations so please let me know if i'm wrong here.
Second on this point, if you are upgrading your light in the future then by your calculations would the wire not need upgraded also? I mean what makes it different.
4) The electrical code must be different in USA than Canada because safety margins are calculated here. You mean like the code that states each circuit is only allowed to operate at 80%...? think its like 1440 watts for a 15amp if i remember right. The recommended wiring has safety margins taken into account.

Are you really a certified electrician? Apprentice maybe?

 

[GreeneryBob]

1) Agree. What on this is moving around more than a tiny bit at usually very few intervals a year. I addressed this in my last post it not enough to justify the need of stranded wire like robotics would. There is something wrong with the installation if this is a problem
2) Agree with this point to a degree but lets be real if the humidity is the reason should we not replace all connectors with explosion proof connectors first off? and explosion proof boxes for junctions?
3) Its recommended for a reason and has been calculated. I agree there is nothing wrong with larger wire especially with long runs but this can be calculated and I wouldn't say for that length of run it would become even close to a recommendation of #14 or larger. I'm to lazy at this point to go do calculations so please let me know if i'm wrong here.
Second on this point, if you are upgrading your light in the future then by your calculations would the wire not need upgraded also? I mean what makes it different.
4) The electrical code must be different in USA than Canada because safety margins are calculated here. You mean like the code that states each circuit is only allowed to operate at 80%...? think its like 1440 watts for a 15amp if i remember right. The recommended wiring has safety margins taken into account.

Are you really a certified electrician? Apprentice maybe?

In a setting where people are getting excited about every 1% bump in efficiency, oversizing your wiring a bunch makes sense.

In a setting where every degree of added heat makes a difference, oversizing makes sense.

In a setting where people with little to no electrical experience are wiring things up and could easily cut strands, oversizing makes sense.

In a setting where we are talking about using the best boards, the best drivers, best nutrients, best spectrum, etc., it isn't too much of a stretch to recommend the best cabling to use.

Been a journeyman for 7 years fucker.

 

[Aqua Man]

In a setting where people are getting excited about every 1% bump in efficiency, oversizing your wiring a bunch makes sense.

In a setting where every degree of added heat makes a difference, oversizing makes sense.

In a setting where people with little to no electrical experience are wiring things up and could easily cut strands, oversizing makes sense.

In a setting where we are talking about using the best boards, the best drivers, best nutrients, best spectrum, etc., it isn't too much of a stretch to recommend the best cabling to use.

Been a journeyman for 7 years fucker.

Fair enough but I think the question was about what's needed not how to get 1% more efficient. The gains made are virtually negligible. And you just repeated one of my points why solid core would make a better option.

I think it's common knowledge and everyone here would already agree there is no downside to using slightly overated materials. But you came off with the "i'm an electrician and this is what you need" so excuse me for holding you accountable for that statement. Not sure why you are pissed at me? I didn't make that statement you did.

Anyhow I hold no grudge and moving past it.

 

[GreeneryBob]

Fair enough but I think the question was about what's needed not how to get 1% more efficient. The gains made are virtually negligible. And you just repeated one of my points why solid core would make a better option.

I think it's common knowledge and everyone here would already agree there is no downside to using slightly overated materials. But you came off with the "i'm an electrician and this is what you need" so excuse me for holding you accountable for that statement. Not sure why you are pissed at me? I didn't make that statement you did.

Anyhow I hold no grudge and moving past it.

OK, I came into that a little high horsed, but yea, I was laughing with the "fucker" comment, I suppose an emoticon or "LOL" would have been good to put.

For smaller lights, smaller AWG is fine but bonding/grounding them is an important safety consideration as is using durable cable.

Solid core wires are not rated for moving around as they can snap off or crack in spots that have been rebent too much... this is why no device or extension cords are ever solid core.

 

[Aqua Man]

OK, I came into that a little high horsed, but yea, I was laughing with the "fucker" comment, I suppose an emoticon or "LOL" would have been good to put.

For smaller lights, smaller AWG is fine but bonding/grounding them is an important safety consideration as is using durable cable.

Solid core wires are not rated for moving around as they can snap off or crack in spots that have been rebent too much... this is why no device or extension cords are ever solid core.

Much agreed with this.

 

[pop22]

you don't ground the DC output of a driver!

Third wire is for a ground, young apprentice. You should ground your lighting rigs, this helps you to not die. Short runs of small diameter wire is fine but upsizing is always good.

Using rated in-wall speaker wire in walls makes sense as does having larger diameter wiring for longer runs...using fancy branded wiring does nothing.

 

[pop22]

Do you think the guys at HLG know anything about wiring? Because they recommend 20-22G wire.....

I use 14G 3 wire stranded for the AC side, 18G standed to the QB boards, where I transition it to solid core 18G. Solid is required to work with the Molex connectors. I adjust the height of my lights as needed and long runs of solid are useless for this. You seem to be missing the point that we're talking the DC side of this installation. Ground wire are NOT used in this type of DC circuit.
What you say is fine for the AC side.
And BTW, my room is wired with 12G on 15 amp breakers, I understand about safe wiring.

Show us your light, I want to see it and your 14G wiring!

1.) Solid core wire is meant for installations that are not moved around.
2.) Having cables rated for damp locations installed in damp location just makes sense.
3.) Upsizing your wiring, especially for longer runs keeps the cable from generating heat and heat losses, yes smaller than #14 works for plenty of applications but for the extra few bucks and the ability to upsize your installation later, especially on your main lighting setup, why not?
4.) The electrical codes give us bare minimums for wire sizing and if you are wanting to build the best light possible, step it up.