Uncle Ben's Gardening Tweeks and Pointers

snew

snew

Well-Known Member
UB,
I'll be sending a sample of my compost to the local extension office to be analyzed as soon as its ready. They do a comparative analysis of the soil/compost and the need of a chosen plant included recommended feeding schedules, etc. I can't very well ask for an analysis for MJ. So what plant, that one would grow in SE US, has a grow cycle and nutritional needs similar to MJ. I'm not sure how the feed schedule would work indoors compared to outdoors, however, the basic information could really be helpful. In developing future compost and care of plants.
Thanks for your help, snew
 
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N0rth3rnL1ghtz

Member
UB,

I just spent the last 6 hours reading this entire thread. I am very impressed by your logic and thinking when it comes to MJ. I've spent countless hours on RIU learning from others, but your approach is refreshing. This thread has really opened my eyes about nutes and the general lack of N. I had no idea what i've been doing to my plants. talk about a wake up call.

I like your opinion on this so called "green" movement. I think all the propaganda has helped turn the organic movement into the common misconception that it is today. I always believed they were right and i was "cheating" by using chem. Now i know.

I was also unaware about what FF and AN were really doing with their line of products. this whole marketing thingie is a trip. i 100% fell for it.

I had no idea flushing was so counter intuitive. the part that stuck with me was "A plant isn't like a radiator, nothing is flushed out. Use judicious foods until harvest to maintain the health of the leaves, don't worry about bud production, forget the bud." its amazing to me how many people think they understand this art...

I enjoyed the conversation about vegatative light cycles and agree with your compromised 20/4 schedule. genius.

Just wanted to let you know how much i appreciate and respect your hard work.

a great number of the people asking questions on here shouldve just read the damn thread. that's why great dudes like UB spend so much time writing them, so you can READ and LEARN from them. not so you can ask the same "why are my leafs fucked up" questions over and over again (no disrespect, i've been there but damn!)

please take this ridiculously patient mans advice:

understand what makes a plant tick
read Mel Frank
learn to read your plants

thanks again for all this knowledge!
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
snew said:
UB,
I'll be sending a sample of my compost to the local extension office to be analyzed as soon as its ready. They do a comparative analysis of the soil/compost and the need of a chosen plant included recommended feeding schedules, etc. I can't very well ask for an analysis for MJ. So what plant, that one would grow in SE US, has a grow cycle and nutritional needs similar to MJ.
Click to expand...
Just list vegetables. If you need to be specific, tomatoes. I just received a report on 2 samples and on one I listed two crops for the field, the other my vegetable garden. Be sure and send off a representative sample of your final mix. TX A&M soil/water test lab charges only $15 and you get your NPK and other macros (Ca, S, and Mg), micros, conductivity, pH, as well as recommendations of what to add. Save on postage, and send off a water sample for analysis too. You can use a 12 oz bottle.

Based on one soil sample, I put out a 150 lbs. of a 18-11-5 with Zn and Fe yesterday, and now we have a nice slow rain going on. :D BTW, I bought 250 lbs. of high grade fertilizer for $52 total from a feed store. Called up the manufacturing plant's agronomist (yes, a legitimate doctorate) and talked with him about a few issues, and went about my business. The N sources of this food are ammoniacal, just what I want to get a little pH reduction with very little leaching. IOW, you can get very good professional advice and cheap but high quality products if you do your homework. Stick with the professionals in the horticultural industry.

N0rth3rnL1ghtz said:
UB,

I just spent the last 6 hours reading this entire thread. I am very impressed by your logic and thinking when it comes to MJ. I've spent countless hours on RIU learning from others, but your approach is refreshing. This thread has really opened my eyes about nutes and the general lack of N. I had no idea what i've been doing to my plants. talk about a wake up call.
Click to expand...
6 hours, wow! Welcome to the thread. I'm glad to present a different approach. Others contribute some pearls of wisdom too.

I like your opinion on this so called "green" movement. I think all the propaganda has helped turn the organic movement into the common misconception that it is today. I always believed they were right and i was "cheating" by using chem. Now i know.
Click to expand...
They are not well meaning. It has become a cult based on feelings, control, and ideology.

I was also unaware about what FF and AN were really doing with their line of products. this whole marketing thingie is a trip. i 100% fell for it.
Click to expand...
Alot do. Check this out if you want a real laugh. https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-marijuana-cultivation/297630-advanced-nutrients-has-class.html

I had no idea flushing was so counter intuitive. the part that stuck with me was "A plant isn't like a radiator, nothing is flushed out. Use judicious foods until harvest to maintain the health of the leaves, don't worry about bud production, forget the bud." its amazing to me how many people think they understand this art...
Click to expand...
I'm not the be-all of gardening, I have alot to learn but when you understand that alot of salts are broken down into their respective ions BEFORE being taken within plant tissue, you must question such forum paradigms.

Just wanted to let you know how much i appreciate and respect your hard work.
Click to expand...
Thank you!

a great number of the people asking questions on here shouldve just read the damn thread. that's why great dudes like UB spend so much time writing them, so you can READ and LEARN from them. not so you can ask the same "why are my leafs fucked up" questions over and over again (no disrespect, i've been there but damn!)
Click to expand...
Go to Advanced, someone has just posted another "NPK help please".

Good luck,
UB
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
I'm not singling out this guy who recently wrote me in a PM complaining of losing leaves, yellowing, etc. but here is the typical fella who has spent alot of money on foods, this one being GH, runs into trouble and then complains because he doesn't understand plant nutrition and is taking GH's word for it. I get the usual "I'm using X plant product". I ask, "what is the NPK value?" and this is what I can expect to hear, always. This is his response:

flora micro=5-0-1= 5ml per gal
flora bloom=0-5-4=10 ml per gal
floralicious plus=2.8-.8-.02=1ml per gal
liguid kool bloom=0-10-10=5ml per gal
flora blend=0.5-1-1=10 ml per gal

Now, his wallet is about $150 short and he's having problems because a quick glance at the total NPK values reveals that the K is wacked out for the amount of N the plant requires, like a final ratio of 3-6-11. Another notation, 1 ml of nuttin' aint nuttin'.

UB
 
W

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
Well, I know I'm going to have sort of a nute question for UB, but I'm still researching so I can ask the CORRECT question. More a technical thing than products or ratios. LOL

I've been growing 'stuff' since 1971 or so and have made my own mix since '72 or '73. Close to promix from what I've read, but I've never heard of promix till the last year or so.

Started out with orchids and rare ferns and progressed from there. This was all in SoFla and eventually everything was well dialed in.

Then we moved:neutral: Like 800+ miles North and the climate changed, and the water changed, and I had to move indoors, and I'm not dialed in anymore.:cry:

Getting there, but still need a few tweaks and that's what the questions will be about. Intelligent I hope.:lol:

Wet
 
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N0rth3rnL1ghtz

Member
HAHAHA at first i thought that video was a joke.

i had to stop myself from replying. those people are doomed. all the science, logic, or proof in the world couldnt convince them otherwise.

i like how everyone calls you out like you have no idea what you're talking about; yet, you're the one linking to literature from St. Augustine Orchid Society and WSU Ph.D.s. It's funny. especially when they post journals that prove their ignorance.

to hear people blindly follow companies' PR like that makes me glad i work in the marcom industry. seriously though, wow.

it baffles me that after 17,000+ posts, people still make the same fundamental mistakes. and that their peers still back them up! good lord, what have i gotten myself into! ;-)

UB, you should make a book of those notations. that way i can just throw the knowledge at them, instead of trying to type it :-)
 
growman09

growman09

Active Member
ive been looking every where for an answer and ive been from mag or cal problem to and fe prob to now i think maybe potassium toxicity which im not sure how she is 45 days old 5 days into 12/12 i ve given two feedings in a row to try to beat the problem with 1/2 tsp ff grow big 6/4/4 1/2 tsp ff tiger bloom 2/8/4 and 1 tbls of ff grow big could this be the problem?yellow new growth and 2 colored leaves also where can i get the fert youve been recomending. also problem started before i gave any nutes and im growing in ffof straight up
 

Attachments

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jjfoo

Active Member
Uncle Ben said:
Just list vegetables. If you need to be specific, tomatoes.
Click to expand...

I'm not just being anal for the sake of being anal. I really want to know if this is valuable to consider...

first to agree on terms lets say this is a fruit:

"In biology (botany), on the other hand, a "fruit" is a part of a flowering plant that derives from specific tissues of the flower, mainly one or more ovaries. "


I ask this because you said vegetable then specified tomato. I'm wondering if by vegetable you mean fruit or non fruit. (I don't know the botanical def of vegetable...)

I see some recommendations for vegetables (fruits in this case) and they group tomatoes and peppers differently than EGGPLANT, CUCUMBERS, MELONS, SQUASH. The tomatoes and peppers get more nutes.

I want to know it fruiting plants have different requirements than non fruiting plants, like lettuce.
 
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jjfoo

Active Member
What do they mean when they say this:

"Earth Juice Bloom and Grow

They are highly concentrated, easy-to-use, dust free, and contain no salt-building chemicals or hidden NPK boosting synthetics."

This sounds wierd to me from what I have recently learned. no salt-building chemicals I mean. They must mean no salts or inorganic chemicals right? From what I now understand organic nutes break down into 'salt-building chemicals'. I am right in saying this?
 
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jjfoo

Active Member
UB, I'd like to hear your view on this. I've heard many disagreements about his.

If nitrogen is a much needed thing why not use our own urine diluted to the right concentration? Is this an inferior source of nitrogen?
 
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jjfoo

Active Member
I usually clone. I was given some trainwreck sprouts (they where handed to me in a napkin and where line 3 inches long already.

I planted them in soil and they are kick ass. Four colas each. I don't know why I didn't notice sooner (big lesson) but I have a male, totally health four big tops with tons of pollen sacks! I normally would have put this in the trash, but I want seeds so I can do the 4 cola thing correctly instead of my 3 cola clone thing (which I learned from Sub, and Sub refered me to UB)


** my question is, will I have seeds in my crop now? The plant was put into 12/12 on Jan 28 and today is Feb 12.

If so, I guess I'll have seeds. Sounds good to me, put my partners will freak out.

I don't see any buds near by that have little flower petals on them like I am seeing in the Cervantes book.

If I want to make seeds out of my house, do I need to wait for the pollen sacks to open? They are really green and closed.
 
Katatawnic

Katatawnic

Well-Known Member
jjfoo said:
I usually clone. I was given some trainwreck sprouts (they where handed to me in a napkin and where line 3 inches long already.

I planted them in soil and they are kick ass. Four colas each. I don't know why I didn't notice sooner (big lesson) but I have a male, totally health four big tops with tons of pollen sacks! I normally would have put this in the trash, but I want seeds so I can do the 4 cola thing correctly instead of my 3 cola clone thing (which I learned from Sub, and Sub refered me to UB)


** my question is, will I have seeds in my crop now? The plant was put into 12/12 on Jan 28 and today is Feb 12.

If so, I guess I'll have seeds. Sounds good to me, put my partners will freak out.

I don't see any buds near by that have little flower petals on them like I am seeing in the Cervantes book.

If I want to make seeds out of my house, do I need to wait for the pollen sacks to open? They are really green and closed.
Click to expand...
https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-marijuana-cultivation/20319-seed-production-tutorial.html :blsmoke:
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
DaveCoulier

DaveCoulier

Well-Known Member
Well, I had a nice question I was going to ask, but due to RIU being a piece of shit and logging me out, and my password not working for some reason, I had to request it, and a cut and paste error erased it. Grrr.

Anyways. I was curious about why the bottom of my plants dont flower for shit. I know MJ requires low levels of Pfr during the dark period to flower correctly. Since the lower third is under a dense canopy, they should already have low levels of Pfr when I go into the dark period and thus flower well. I was confused because the upper levels have high levels of Pfr at lights out yet flower so well compared to the bottom.

Then I happened upon a site, and it seemed to answer my question pretty damned good.

Receptor.

1. Location.
The receptor is located in the leaves. Evidence: (a) defoliated plants are insensitive to photoperiod; (b) plants with a single leaf in the inductive photoperiod will bloom (e.g., Perilla; Chailakhyan, 1961); (c) the receptor doesn't seem to reside in meristem since treating the meristem with inductive photoperiod doesn't initiate flowering (Chailakhyan).

I have obviously lost more fan leaves in the bottom third of my plants than I would have liked. This would seem to make perfect sense why the flowering is so poor down there. Which is another reason why you need to keep those fan leaves as healthy as possible!

Regarding that single leaf, blooming, and Pr/Pfr ratios, Im guessing the level in the leaves directly affects the nearest budsites, as opposed to a leaf affecting budsites at the top of the plant.

Thoughts?
 
Kriegs

Kriegs

Well-Known Member
DaveCoulier said:
I wish I had some amber trichs. My Nirvana WW are 70 days in and no amber trichs on bud. I want to harvest damnit! :(
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I don't know that I'm viewing it as a good thing. It seems like, with the plant spitting ambers right out of the gate, that timing the harvest could be tricky to avoid a batch of overripe weed. I really want to stay patient and let those buds harden as much as possible. I don't want the trichs rolling out way ahead of the rest of the process.

I've just never seen anyone mention seeing them in early flower :confused:.. and I can't imagine I possess the only MJ plant in the world to do this.

Last year, I was in your boat -- waiting, waiting, waiting just for a few damn ambers to show up on some bagseed sativas. Took about 11 weeks for them to show.

I'll try to get some pic's up in a couple days, though it'd be a miracle to get a clear one with a basic dig camera. Gotta travel for the gig for a few days first..
 
J

jjfoo

Active Member
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