The Official Canna Coco & Nutrients Thread

Discussion in 'Drain-To-Waste Hydro' started by jberry, Aug 9, 2009.

  1.  
    since1991

    since1991 Well-Known Member

    Yeah. Your using bottled r.o. water. Near zero in that start. Dropping your calmag prolly isnt a good idea. Canna generically assumes most everyones start water is 100 to 250 ppm right out the tap. And comprised mostly of cal and mag carbonates. Its why they put a little fulvic and aminos in most of thier bottles. A one size fits all approach.
     
    coreywebster and gr865 like this.
  2.  
    gr865

    gr865 Well-Known Member

    I got this a few yrs ago off another site but I cannot find where it was. I have modified it some to fit my needs and have use this for a number of coco grows now. Posted this before but I think it a good read. This is not a direct quote as I have made it easier to read. The intro is how I use this, followed by numbers.

    This Calcium information is purely based on a Canna schedule, using Cal/Magic As I state below, once you hit around 700 ppm you no longer need Cal/Magic.

    I use GH Cal/Magic and Epsom. When I use RO or rainwater (2-5 ppm) I add C/M and Epsom to bring my #'s to 120 ppm, then begin adding the base nutes. I use Canna Coco's line of nutes but I back off of their recommended rates, as I feel they are way high. For example, in veg I will add only 200 ppm of A&B, in flower 400 ppm. Now that rate does not give me the Cal ratio needed. You need around 150 ppm of calcium alone.....so even if when I'm at 200 ppm if I only added 100 ppm of Cal/Magic, only 75 is calcium so I would still be short. I would need to add approx.140 ppm of Cal/Magic to reach my desired number.

    LESS IS MORE
    200 - 300 ppm of A&B for veg
    400 - 500 ppm of A&B for flower

    Cal/Magic to A&B ratio
    150 ppm/200 ppm = 350
    100 ppm/300 ppm = 400
    50 ppm/ 400 ppm= 450

    Here is a chart the gives the ratios of Calcium in given ppm of A&B.
    This is based on slightly rough math but is very close to correct in my experience.

    A&B/Calcium
    3 ml/gal = .4 EC = 200 ppm with around 44 ppm of calcium
    4.5 ml/gal = .6 EC = 300 ppm wit.7h around 66 ppm of calcium
    6.2 ml/gal = .8 EC = 400 ppm with around 88 ppm of calcium
    7.7 ml/gal = 1 EC = 500 ppm with around 112 ppm of calcium
    9.2 ml/gal = 1.2 EC = 600 ppm with around 135 ppm of calcium
    10.7 ml/gal = 1.4 EC = 700 with around 150+ ppm of calcium

    5.8 pH
    Drip clean for the win.
    Silica as a pH up, if needed, in veg only.

    I am not saying this is what you should do but this have worked for me very well.

    GR
     
    Warpedpassage and since1991 like this.
  3.  
    since1991

    since1991 Well-Known Member

    If that 150 ppm tap isnt cal and mag..Id say your approach is ideal but dont drop it after veg. Keep it chugging all through the crop. What i said up above applies only if you know for sure that a 100 to 200 ppm tap is mostly cal amd mag carbonates.
     
    Warpedpassage and gr865 like this.
  4.  
    since1991

    since1991 Well-Known Member

    You can see how every grower has pretty much wildly different parameters and starting conditions when it comes to growing cannabis indoors under artificial conditions. Not just water quality either. The ligjting...the strains...environment/climate conditions. So damn different that its hard to give solid advice even with detailed and exact information. What Iam doing applies to me and my setup alone. Its what works. Now..that post above..I have read that. From thcfarmer i think. Not sure. It seems awfully low to me. Especailly in turbo charged dialed co2 sealed rooms with a ton of blinding double ended gavitas. But ot works for him. Another overlooked factor that can give wildly different results is pH and ec/tds meters. How do we know that they are all calibrated and cleaned correctly? Of the same brand? So many different variables and each are really particular to induvidual setups and systems.
     
    Warpedpassage and gr865 like this.
  5.  
    since1991

    since1991 Well-Known Member

    I know one thing. Growers that do pay attention to the little things...and take a pro active role in choosing and dialing in cultivars and a room for them to thrive...even if it takes a little while...end up with the funkiest and highest quality end product. It has to. Inevitable if you keep plugging away at it..your gonna end up with the true dank stuff. And iam not even talking about harvesting..drying and curing. Which in and of itself deserves a whole different discussion. And this whole "hobby" can consume a grower for sure. Its not easy. You have to have a real passion and desire to grow the best you can. Committed is an understatement. Its not for lazy people or anyone that only half asses it. It will show at the end. And its something the straight world can never understand. Ive been growing dope almost steady since 1991. Actually a couple years before that. And I can say now...Iam still exploring. Trying different methods and equipment. Always searching..reading..absorbing. It never stops.
     
    Last edited: Dec 24, 2017
  6.  
    Warpedpassage

    Warpedpassage Well-Known Member

    This is info is from 2002. Might help someone...



    IMG_0170.PNG IMG_0171.PNG IMG_0172.PNG


    Edit: i should mention this does not show the total ppm of the tap water. For example, my cities total ppm is 150. The chart only offers the c,mg,k,n, in the tap, which totals to 40ish ppms for my city. wonder about the the other 110 ppms. I think there might be some answers in the study linked on the website.
     
    Last edited: Dec 25, 2017
    gr865 and since1991 like this.
  7.  
    since1991

    since1991 Well-Known Member

    projectinfo likes this.
  8.  
    Warpedpassage

    Warpedpassage Well-Known Member

    Its called the magnesium website, they have link to the actual 2001 study these numbers are based on.
     
    since1991 likes this.
  9.  
    projectinfo

    projectinfo Well-Known Member

    Anyone ever use sm-90 as a coco wetting agent? I use it for foliar here and there. But when I mix it in my res it clouds up
     
  10.  
    Flash63

    Flash63 Well-Known Member

    I use it to raise my ph when needed..
     
  11.  
    gr865

    gr865 Well-Known Member

    I use it for fungal gnat control as a preventative.
     
    projectinfo and since1991 like this.
  12.  
    since1991

    since1991 Well-Known Member

    Sm90 is some pricey stuff. Been around forever. Good for just putting in a recirc rez for all around mantenance. A wetter...semi bug and disease zapper. Keeps the roots and medium going good. It was kinda popular back in the day.
     
  13.  
    projectinfo

    projectinfo Well-Known Member

    Does it cloud up your res too?

    Do you mix yours I straight or dilute?

    And if your using it as ph up you must be putting it in last right?
     
  14.  
    projectinfo

    projectinfo Well-Known Member

     
  15.  
    Flash63

    Flash63 Well-Known Member

    Yes it does,I mix it 1ml per liter..and yes I put it in last.
     
    projectinfo likes this.
  16.  
    projectinfo

    projectinfo Well-Known Member

  17.  
    gr865

    gr865 Well-Known Member

    I do not mix it in my rez, too oily, I do a good drinch about weekly, also add Great White at the same time along with my reg nutes. Doing DTW so I give them a good 20 to 30% runoff. I have not had any Fungal gnat probs in a few years but they destroyed a full crop a few yrs ago, that is why I do the preventative.
     
    projectinfo likes this.
  18.  
    smokebros

    smokebros Well-Known Member

    I've been using Canna A&B in a drain to waste coco grow with great results. For my beneficial's I've been using Recharge with the drain to waste grow, but I have trepidations about using Recharge in a reservoir for a flood table.

    Going forward I've switched to a flood and drain table, still using Canna Coco A&B nutrients, and the plants are in 2 gallon pots filled with coco + 2'' of hydroton on the bottom. In addition to the Canna Coco A&B I'm also using calimagic and hydroguard in the reservoir.

    What is the general consensus for a water soluble beneficial bacteria for a reservoir? Great white, Orca?

    I might just lightly hand water some recharge once per week to get some microbes into the rhizosphere.

    Curious on getting thoughts from others in the community.

    Here are the clones, just flipped them into flower today. They're the plants that I'm asking about the bennies for.
    IMG_5769.JPG
     
    coreywebster, gr865 and projectinfo like this.
  19.  
    gr865

    gr865 Well-Known Member

    I use canna line in my rez, except I just switched to Golden Tree by Humbolts Secret, I have friends who have made the switch so I thought I would give it a shot this grow. I also use Liquid KoolBloom instead of PK, because I have a couple of gallons of it. Wish I had the setup to do a side by side on Boost vs Golden Tree.
    Other than the smell :) from the Golden Tree and the dark color that leaves a stain in my rez I have had no problems with it. I was concerned that I might get bio film in the rez but that has not happened at all. I have not eliminated Cannazym from the mix although have been told that I can but I like the assurance that I feel with Cannazym.
    I do a twice weekly hand watering at which time I pull a few gallons from my rez add Great White or SubCulture, SM90, not every time both as a wetting agent and fungal gnat preventative, and EM1 at lite rates monthly.
    EM1 increases nutrient uptake in the root system and it accelerates the breakdown of composting materials which helps the Cannazym. I used it many years before I retired from the golf course management profession. I added it along with compost tea, an hand sprayed my greens with it, to aid in the breakdown of organic matter (thatch) and act as a wetting agent to move moisture thru the greens mix evenly.

    A quality compost tea works well in both soil and coco grows, finding Quality Compost can be difficult. You can just make your own, you know what is in it then, or you can walk out into a deciduous forest and get a couple of handfuls (I do this when I am starting a new compost bin, great started), to make one gallon of tea. It's not hard and takes very little input of produce a good compost tea. Just good water, no chlorine, compost, organic sulfur free molasses and a small air pump. I do it in gallon milk jugs, it take two jugs to do a good 5 plant drench. Making a batch today, will be ready tomorrow.
    GR
     
    since1991 likes this.
  20.  
    Cx2H

    Cx2H Well-Known Member

    Baby shampoo about 3$ for a quart..

    Yucca.
     
    714steadyeddie and since1991 like this.

Share This Page