Discussion in 'Subcool's Old School Organics' started by subcool, Apr 26, 2013.
150 numbered pages and another 18 or so in the preface/prelude/about the author.
Where can I buy Frenchy's hash in SF/Oakland?
I know Magnolia in Oakland carries some, is there anywhere else?
I love frenchy' s way, I'm converted
Oooh la la!
Such a great thread, but it is taking forever to read in Frenchy's accent.
thanks my brother hashishin.
Fresh-frozen, whole plant run from a TGA Jillybean x ???. -160 +25
yield was low in comparison to same strain with traditional drying.
Still pulling trich's out on 7th wash.
Microplaned same night, and only change i would make there is to wear gloves!
Smoke was pretty harsh initially, to the point of being not overly enjoyable. After two weeks, the harshness seems to have gone, the flavour/taste is incredible and effect is long lasting and enjoyable.
I am not convinced that a freshly frozen whole plant is the best option for yield, but i can say that it was the best option for me at the time. And the flavour is insane!
Pressing it will mellow out the harsh and add more ooh la la!
Ok, I get the processes for collecting the raw hash; sifting, bubble, etc. But what steps do you go through before pressing it out a-la frenchy? Do you add any water to the mix to moisten it like they do in afghanistan?
No, you want it as dry as possible. The heat and pressing pops the resin glands and mixes the oils and vegetable matter. Natural enzymes present in the mixture then react to create the most amazing smooth delicious tasting hash. This is why the heat and pressing need to be repeated so many times to create a homogenous mixture. The aging then lets the reaction finish slowly.
My notes (mostly from this thread)...
How to make IWE with Frenchy Cannoli
1. Dry material at least 3 months (do not freeze)
2. Prep – Put spoon, screen, miocroplane, and casserole dish in freezer, sanitize machine, clean bags with Isopropyl or ethanol,
3. Put a thin layer of ice on the bottom of the machine
4. Fill up to half full with trim, up to 60-75% with loose bud.
5. Add ice up to top
6. Fill with water
7. Wait 30 minutes (longer with buds)
8. FIRST RUN – less than one minute
9. Run into bucket with bags – Frenchy uses 190-160--45.
a. 190 as a catch bag (optional on small runs)
b. 160 microns to collect larger trichomes ()
c. 70 (optional)
d. 45 microns bag as main collecting bag •
Make a gentle run, use 160 microns to catch the green. Collect 70 microns, do not touch yet the 45. Another gentle run, collect again your 70 still not touching 45. If the quantity of trichomes in your 70 is a lot smaller than your first run, run a third time not using the 70 and catching all trichomes in your 45. It will reinforce the quality of your 45. If you still have a lot in your 70 after the second run. Do it a third time before taking the 70 on the side and pushing the quality of your 45. A good quality trims should be run 3 to 5 times if you want to get it all. The most I run a batch was 12 times, and it was worth it.
10. Rinse bags – rinse last bag in bucket with holes in bottom (or over sink)
11. If mature plant, will have a lot of material in the 160, and little in the 25. If not mature, the opposite.
12. Squeeze out water with hand.
13. Put bag over a plate (or upside down Frisbee) and scrape off resin with a knife onto 25 micron pad in oven dish.
14. SECOND RUN – 2 Minutes
15. Use less ice. Judge by sound, add more ice if ice is not hitting sides of machine.
16. Third Run - 3-4 minutes – remove 70 bag for this and further runs.
17. Fourth Run - 4-7 minutes
18. Fifth Run – 10+ minutes on last run
19. I run my trims an average of 3 to 5 times, sometimes as many as 12, it all depends on the strain. THC % will be lower in each batch
20. Run all waste water through 25 micron while moving bag
21. Dry overnite - best at 55F and 35% humidity (or refrigerator) for 1-2 days
22. Microplane over parchment paper spreading evenly and thin
23. Dry at 55F and 35% humidity for 1-2 weeks
24. PRESSING – use ¼ an oven turkey bag and bottle of boiling water (try vacuum seal bag)
25. Flip and repeat
26. Press 6-8X, then cool (refrig), fold, and press again.
27. Press 3X over 30 minutes
28. Roll into a ball while wearing rubber gloves (Temple Ball)
29. Curing - Dry ball for 7-10 days, then wrap in natural cellophane and store in jar. The less oxygen while you cure or age the better.
30. Burp jars
31. Age 2-5 months
keep the trims on the flowers if you process the whole plant.
will always have more in your 73 than in your 45. If it is not the case it is because you have a lot of unripe trichromes.
190 microns: catch bag not work bag because I do not work the material in my bag but in a machine or a bucket by hand.
160 microns: catch bag if after first wash nothing interesting show in this bag, only a few plants will give you trichomes over 160 microns size and you do not want to miss such a quality size that is why I added the 190 microns and why it should be use at least once on first wash to make sure of the size of your trichomes
the 25 is a pain because of the poor flow of the water and you should use it on the side, pass all the used water through it. When it is that sticky you have to put it in the fridge for a few minutes before chopping,
I NEVER use 220 microns in my machineor as a catch bag.
My NEW work bag is 190 but I will basically use it once to check if my 160 microns bag get anything interesting, if it does not, I will use my 160 microns as the work bag.
Ripe trichromes range between 70 to 120 microns but you may find bigger with certain strains
Yes quality is expensive, mandatory are 160, 70 and 45. If you do a little quantity you may want to add the 190.
Some people only pull their 73 bags each run, and allow the 45 to continually collect throughout the entire batch. Then, when their 73 bag’s quantity begins to lessen, they remove the 73 bag and allow the 45 bag to catch those trichomes. This helps to reinforce the quality of your 45 bag.
You have to use the 220 bag to catch most of the plant material. Then the 160, it will catch a little contaminants with the resin glands and is usually good only for edibles but with some strains you can get lucky. Then comes the 120 which I personally do not use but which should give you very clean result, then the 73 for the best result and the 25 which usually is good only for edible.
Buds - Break your nugs gently IN the water (so that there is no loss), you do not even need to break them too small, the water will do that for you, gentler than you would.
Do not use a lot of ice. I use a lot of ice cold water with a 10% or so of ice cubes floating but I always make sure that there is some ice, not that the ice make a difference it just help make sure of the temperature.
Uses bucket with bottom cut out for each bag. Last bucket with holes in the bottom in the bottom – can rinse a lot without overflowng. Use a flat saw with small teeth, cut the first one close to the bottom and the other 3 inches shorter than the preceding and so on.
The curing when you use water is a security against mold but also give the time to the resin to "eat" any microscopic leaf material as well as the membranes that surround the resin glands. After "dinner"(6 to 8 weeks), the resin will go into a more dormant stage (digestion) at that point you age it to mellow the smoke and the nose/aroma will be less strain related and more hashish but you should be able to recognize the strain.
If you are squeezing rosin then you can use the 160 and 120 for squeezing. I tried it and it was as good as the 73 (actually it was a little better)!
Frenchy, it was a dream meeting you at the summit with MB.
Logged in just to say what's up. Thank you thank you thank you sir.
See ya sooner than later brother.
How do you get this perfect little square to press? Are you forming it like that when its wet and drying it like that instead of chopping it up fine?
Will resin press when it is wet or will it just crumble like if it had plant material in it?
Frenchy, I'm having some trouble breaking up my last batch due to how sticky it is. I always seem to have that issue but now im thinking it may be due to the room im doing it in, defo around 65F. Iv read about putting the bubble into an envelope with non stick baking sheets, then putting it in the freezer with a stainless steel spoon. Once the hash has frozen, tap the spoon off the envelope to sort of crush up the smaller bits into powder. I have tried this before and it works but i don't know what effect the tapping of the spoon has on the heads. Or if freezing straight from the bags is a good idea due to the moisture trapped inside. Any input ? Loving the thread. Sorry if this has already been brought up, im about 28 pages in 230 to go
Have you tried micro-planing it on to some parchment and then putting it in the refrigerator to dry? Always works for me. Fresh resin is always stickier and a little harder to work with. It is well worth it though.
I’ve heard Frenchie and some others say the micro planning breaks off the heads and damages them. Make sense when you think about it. I will check out the resin before and after a micro plan and see how they look.
Defintly going to try the fridge next after iv collected my next batch of trim.
For now I think I managed to roll up some temple balls. Have a look
1st .9g of Blue Cheese (Very Sticky)
2nd 1.8g of Swiss Cheese
3rd 3.1g of Amnesia Lemon
Pressing it breaks open the heads also. In fact it is the breaking open of the heads that allows the hash to ferment and cure to the amazing finished product.
I like being able to get the resin as dry as possible and microplaning makes that possible. It is so pretty when it is fluffy.
Knife vs Microplane:
Separate names with a comma.