Samsung F Series LED Strip Build for a 3x3' (links for ALL parts inc.)

skoomd

Well-Known Member
Yeah, he is relatively new, found him a half year ago.
The second link from post # 16 is also useful, as you can directly take over the numbers of the Sammy calculator and convert them to PAR numbers at different heights....
Yeah, I have used that calculator in the past. It's putting me at 860 ppfd at 24" and like 1150 ppfd at 18". Im liking that.

edit: Just tobe sure those numbers are solid, the "area illuminated" means what exactly? I am just using the PPFD they give at the bottom plus 10% losses for reflection. But is it the ppfd for the area illuminated or the umol/m^2/s they use at the bottom?
 
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Randomblame

Well-Known Member
I finished my new one yesterday. 20x 2ft. F-strips/3k (10s2p) on an HLG-240H-C1050B, 8x Blux V18c/3k/CRI90 on an HLG-120H-C500B, a 39w reptile UVB tube(12% UVB, 30% UVA, 7k/CRI90 and 6x XP-E/730nm as flower-trigger.
~450-500w total, everything controlled by Sonoff timers and ewelink app...

Strips, COB's + UVB.jpg Thanks God everything fit's in the case.jpg
 

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skoomd

Well-Known Member
What a beast light.

@ANC Interesting point you got there. The plants will be in flower 1-2 days post flipping, demonstrated by the stretch. So the question is: Does IR speed actual bud onset, or this 1-2 day period?

Ive had bud onset as early as day 9 after flip, with no IR. Avg is 12 for me.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
I have a quick question - Will the potentiometer short anything if it touches my aluminum frame/heatsinks?
Should be fully dimmed down when there is a short between the dimming wires! (open dimmer circuit=max. output)
I glue usually a piece of iso tape around the poti holes to avoid something like this.
You can also get a short when there is excess solder on the pins.
And make sure your poti has more than 100k, 110k is best. A 90k poti would limit the output to only 90%. If your poti has less than 100k take one or two addidional 10k resistors(the smallest are sufficient) and solder it on the right pin when you look from behind.
Meanwell drivers(also the B-version) can go as high as 108%(with open dimmer wires), only when you use a 110k poti you can be sure to get the maximum output of your driver.
Screenshot_20180318-102443.png

I usually take them in 10packs, the B100k e3ay dimmers you can get 10 for less than 3$US.
You need a multimeter too to measure resistance and such things. But they are also cheap to get, the one I use has cost only 4-5$.
 
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skoomd

Well-Known Member
Hey skoomd,

You mentioned your fixture was heavy in the other thread, what would you estimate the total weight to be?
30-40 pounds probably.

I wanted to run 10x of the single row strips instead of 5x of the dual row ones because I wanted to see how improved uniformity affects things, as I have a 600w strip light using only 6 strips and I got alil bleaching on a few tops. And in doing so, I needed to of course use twice the heatsink. Didnt think it would be so heavy, but it's definitely got some weight to it.

It was a royal pain in the ass to hang it up because of that lol.
 

Artificia1

Active Member
30-40 pounds probably.

I wanted to run 10x of the single row strips instead of 5x of the dual row ones because I wanted to see how improved uniformity affects things, as I have a 600w strip light using only 6 strips and I got alil bleaching on a few tops. And in doing so, I needed to of course use twice the heatsink. Didnt think it would be so heavy, but it's definitely got some weight to it.

It was a royal pain in the ass to hang it up because of that lol.
Right on, the tents I was looking at are rated to hang 40 lbs so now I am a little worried lol. Could always just have the fan and carbon outside if I need to.

Thanks for the info
 

gwheels

Well-Known Member
Just posting this light I just made, expect to see a lot more from me in the coming weeks as I get my strawberry banana seeds in and grow em under this bad boy. Plan to run Nectar for the Gods as well :)

The goal of this light was to strive for insanely good uniformity to help with canopy penetration and prevent any kind of light stress/burning from being too close (a common problem with fewer sources of more powerful lights).

What do ya'll think? I gotta clean up some of the wiring, but it's pretty much all complete.

Tent temps max out at 79f (74f ambient) and the temp of the strips is 45-50C measured directly center of the strips.

SPECS:
View attachment 4106859 View attachment 4106861
Wow you have my tent and fan and everything. Those lights really fill the space nicely. I am going to have to check it out. I wouldnt mind doing them in 2 x 4 pieces in case i decide to go down to a 2 x 4 tent. Then I can just put half of it in. And I can run the light beside the 315 CMH i have until then. I feel a 2 x 4 strip light is in my future !. Thanks for the list and pics. In my mind they were like the youtube girl mounting them to cardboard and wow that did not make me feel warm and fuzzy about it.

:)
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
He did use full-on aluminium extrusions for heatsinks... So it will be heavy but cold.

I can easily hold my lights up with one hand while adjusting the chain with the other.
 

skoomd

Well-Known Member
Wow you have my tent and fan and everything. Those lights really fill the space nicely. I am going to have to check it out. I wouldnt mind doing them in 2 x 4 pieces in case i decide to go down to a 2 x 4 tent. Then I can just put half of it in. And I can run the light beside the 315 CMH i have until then. I feel a 2 x 4 strip light is in my future !. Thanks for the list and pics. In my mind they were like the youtube girl mounting them to cardboard and wow that did not make me feel warm and fuzzy about it.

:)
Sounds like a good idea!

And yeah at what @ANC said. This build was done a bit overkill just because I wanted to see how it performs, so I used actual 1" wide aluminum heatsink, which is surprising heavy. With 10 strips, plus my frame, it weighs around 30 pounds but I dont know for sure without weighing it. If you want a modular setup where you can install a second 2x4 light or just take one out or move them around, you might want to find a lighter option. It is not easy adjusting this thing up and down, let alone moving it or taking it out. The benefit is the diodes run icy cool @ 40-50c ran all day long, which bumps efficiency up a bit and makes the leds last forever.
 

gwheels

Well-Known Member
Sounds like a good idea!

And yeah at what @ANC said. This build was done a bit overkill just because I wanted to see how it performs, so I used actual 1" wide aluminum heatsink, which is surprising heavy. With 10 strips, plus my frame, it weighs around 30 pounds but I dont know for sure without weighing it. If you want a modular setup where you can install a second 2x4 light or just take one out or move them around, you might want to find a lighter option. It is not easy adjusting this thing up and down, let alone moving it or taking it out. The benefit is the diodes run icy cool @ 40-50c ran all day long, which bumps efficiency up a bit and makes the leds last forever.
My tent has 1 inch poles and can support 60 pounds claimed. I can beef it up and get that to 90 pretty easy. I do like those heavy channels. Overkill means no regrets !

On a side note I never thought of the plants changing to flower quicker. My vero light started budlets about 4 days sooner than my CMH light. I do have a train wreck in each. :D.
 

skoomd

Well-Known Member
My tent has 1 inch poles and can support 60 pounds claimed. I can beef it up and get that to 90 pretty easy. I do like those heavy channels. Overkill means no regrets !
Haha I like your style. My 3x3 tent can hold up to 110 lbs so that doesn't bother me. But I gotta do some gymnastics to drop the 2 ratchet hangers in the back. I do love the solid build with this light though, it should last many many years of heavy use.

The temps on the heatsinks never read over 30c, so if I wanted to I could plop in a bigger driver like the hlg 480-24b if I want more power and it will go all the way up to the max these babies can take, which is 430 watts. The sinks would handle it like a breeze! Only thing is that 430w in this 3x3 tent would fry anything that goes in there!

I have a 6x strip build with the LT-FB24B 44" strips in a 4x4 tent running on some plain ol 2" U frame running @ 100w each and the u frame gets up closer to 45-50c and the strips 60-65c ish. Which aint bad, but if I can squeeze more photons out of the diodes by keeping em cooler, im all about that. Plus the heatsink looks way cleaner than the clunky U frame.
 
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