Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread

TheSpaceFarm

Well-Known Member
Its a slippery slope spot treating problems.

Maybe you should look over what you have done to get to this point and what you can do next time.

Maybe a soil test, do you keep a log of what goes into each plant ?
Yea i keep a log of everything i do. And its always the same (with minor tweaks for different strains) with great results. This is my first run with this strain. The only thing these got different from the others was a little epsom salt because og's are mag hungry.
 

TheSpaceFarm

Well-Known Member
1/3 strength? Im not using nutes yo Im in rols. Im not trying to flush away all the soil biology and shit. Drown my worms and what not lol.
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
Im looking for a fast acting organic source of manganese. Anyone got any ideas? I know kelp meal has a good amount but its also high in magnesium which i think is the source of my manganese deficiency. Will adding more kelp only perpetuate the problem? I recently watered in some epsom salt and now ive got this one top leaf looking like this so i believe its manganese def.
apparently brown rice is rich in manganese. you could topdress some brown rice and your soil fungi will consume it rapidly and that could help out your problem! Symbiotic fungi like to share!
 

TheSpaceFarm

Well-Known Member
apparently brown rice is rich in manganese. you could topdress some brown rice and your soil fungi will consume it rapidly and that could help out your problem! Symbiotic fungi like to share!
Dope thanks man ill give it a try. I couldnt find much online it all says use chem ferts, im like nah im good lol. Good to know.
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
Dope thanks man ill give it a try. I couldnt find much online it all says use chem ferts, im like nah im good lol. Good to know.
also if you run a worm bin or make compost, these other foods are rich in manganese: pineapple, spinach, oats, pumpkin seeds and wheat bran. You could start adding those to your composting regiment.
 

TheSpaceFarm

Well-Known Member
also if you run a worm bin or make compost, these other foods are rich in manganese: pineapple, spinach, oats, pumpkin seeds and wheat bran. You could start adding those to your composting regiment.
Nice thats whats up my worms love spinach lol I'll hook em up with some of the others too
 

Avant_Gardener

Active Member
Bokashi does have a low ph below 4.0. But cannabis is an acid loving plant. The microbes in the soil naturally regulate ph.
I just topdress bokashi once every 2 weeks and use lab once every 10 days.. once the mycelium develops i then topdress xonpoat or castings. If bokashi and labs are used too often then the bacteria in them will out compete soil microbes and then you will have ph issues.

I never use lab in worm bins. When I add bokashi, I mix it with egg shells. The low ph of bokashi will invite pot worms. The egg shells raise ph. Plus the bokashi makes the egg shells break down faster and the worms go through the shells faster.
Labs every 10 days is for your containers but not your SIPS?
 

Ecompost

Well-Known Member
This is coots mix I use to run subs super soil
Right now it’s a cover crop will be mulched over before I flower still need to source some worms and get some coconut powder. I’ve used yucca and aloe so far and also some silica they seem to doing fine. I was a little confused with the cover crop at first thought you ran them at the same time but now I’ve decided to mulch over it.
But anything to hold the moisture in would be nice as these pots due tend to dry out quick on top.
I’m trying to run a no till right now I’m just looking for a Phenos I like from this run to clone so I’m not overly concerned with how the plants turn out. I’d rather build the soil up for next runs. I wanted to run soil and was tired of throwing it all out so I thought no till was the answer.
I’d like to get to a mostly only water don’t mind adding silica and stuff like that.
I ordered a worm farm to start vermicomposting just have to source some red wigglers but with it being winter in Canada most places are shipping them.
This all started with me reading true living organics and was going to try that with the spikes and everything but then I found no till and thought it sounded better
View attachment 4235404
there is very little evidence (eg none) to support the transfer of Nitrogen from say a living Legume to another living plant in proximity, so what you are doing is good, you grow a soil fertility booster, eg you grow a plant(s) that can handle low Nutrient density, terminate, then plant your target crop
 

CanadianDank

Well-Known Member
What's up all you ROLS heads?

Been reading a hell of a lot over the last month on living soil. From the Rev, to here and eyecmag and I've decided to make the leap.

I've always wanted to go true organics, way back when I wanted to use super soil!

Anyways this is my base mix

1/3 EWC
1/3 Potting Soil
1/3 Perlite

To each C.F. of the base I will add

0.5 cup crustacean/crab meal - (still need to source this!)
0.5 cup neem/karanja meal - (still looking for this as well)
0.5 cup alfalfa meal
0.5 cup kelp meal
0.5 cup dolomite lime
1.5 cup glacial rock dust
1 cup greensand
0.5 cup gypsum (still need to source)

I'm also looking for some fish meal and fish bone meal to add to that list, although I could do without.

Anyways I'm really looking for some input on this mix, does my recipe look balanced?

It'll be my first time mixing my own soil so I'm trying to keep it simple, but looking for any tips y'all might have for me.
 

TheSpaceFarm

Well-Known Member
What's up all you ROLS heads?

Been reading a hell of a lot over the last month on living soil. From the Rev, to here and eyecmag and I've decided to make the leap.

I've always wanted to go true organics, way back when I wanted to use super soil!

Anyways this is my base mix

1/3 EWC
1/3 Potting Soil
1/3 Perlite

To each C.F. of the base I will add

0.5 cup crustacean/crab meal - (still need to source this!)
0.5 cup neem/karanja meal - (still looking for this as well)
0.5 cup alfalfa meal
0.5 cup kelp meal
0.5 cup dolomite lime
1.5 cup glacial rock dust
1 cup greensand
0.5 cup gypsum (still need to source)

I'm also looking for some fish meal and fish bone meal to add to that list, although I could do without.

Anyways I'm really looking for some input on this mix, does my recipe look balanced?

It'll be my first time mixing my own soil so I'm trying to keep it simple, but looking for any tips y'all might have for me.
Personally i would skip the dolomite lime and in its place use oyster shell. Some people prefer dolomite but I've seen it cause more problems than not. It has a cal to mag ratio of 2:1 and thats way too much mag for this mix
 

TheSpaceFarm

Well-Known Member
What's up all you ROLS heads?

Been reading a hell of a lot over the last month on living soil. From the Rev, to here and eyecmag and I've decided to make the leap.

I've always wanted to go true organics, way back when I wanted to use super soil!

Anyways this is my base mix

1/3 EWC
1/3 Potting Soil
1/3 Perlite

To each C.F. of the base I will add

0.5 cup crustacean/crab meal - (still need to source this!)
0.5 cup neem/karanja meal - (still looking for this as well)
0.5 cup alfalfa meal
0.5 cup kelp meal
0.5 cup dolomite lime
1.5 cup glacial rock dust
1 cup greensand
0.5 cup gypsum (still need to source)

I'm also looking for some fish meal and fish bone meal to add to that list, although I could do without.

Anyways I'm really looking for some input on this mix, does my recipe look balanced?

It'll be my first time mixing my own soil so I'm trying to keep it simple, but looking for any tips y'all might have for me.
Other than that your mix looks good i would maybe even up the minerals a bit as well
 

TheSpaceFarm

Well-Known Member
And if you cant source oyster shell calcitic lime is a much better option than dolomite lime. The ratio is more like 6:1 if i remember correctly
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
you could also do a half and half of oyster shell and dolomite lime. i would actually tone down the rock dust to 1c, or even a 1/2c, per cu. ft.
 

TheSpaceFarm

Well-Known Member
you could also do a half and half of oyster shell and dolomite lime. i would actually tone down the rock dust to 1c, or even a 1/2c, per cu. ft.
Half and half would work too. And yea i didnt realize it said 1.5 on the GRD i thought it said .5 for some reason. But yea i would tone down the GRD and up the gypsum. I usually try to keep around 3-4 cups total mineral sources in my mix and I've had nothing but good results.
 
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