Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread

TL4

Well-Known Member
Has anyone ever been overrun with pill bugs? If so what did you do to get them in Check. There is hundreds of them. I put containers sunk into the soil with beer in them, which soon filled up with the bugs. Anything I plant gets chewed off at the base. I have a 4x9 raised bed no till organic. Any ideas?
 

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
Has anyone ever been overrun with pill bugs? If so what did you do to get them in Check. There is hundreds of them. I put containers sunk into the soil with beer in them, which soon filled up with the bugs. Anything I plant gets chewed off at the base. I have a 4x9 raised bed no till organic. Any ideas?
https://www.naturalinsectcontrol.com/cat.php?cat=5

Email those guys theyll tell you a bunch of stuff .

Well heres what they sent me .

2018 Crop Recommendation

MedicalMarihuana


Overview

This crop is for human consumption. Every effort should be made to grow the crop without the use of chemical insecticides, fungicides or herbicides. When plants are grown in protected environments, they can be grown year ‘round, at a faster rate and with less physical damage. The protected environment however, also tends to make it easier for the pests to become established and to get out of control due to the exclusion of natural enemies from the surrounding environment.



Prior to planting

The greenhouse or growth chamber must be adequately cleaned of old plant material, obvious fungal residue and non-essential apparatus. A thorough cleaning with a detergent is highly recommended.


The climate must be appropriate for growing conditions. Stressed plants are much more susceptible to fungal pathogens and insect pests. Care must be taken to ensure that air circulation is efficient but not too intense, as a strong wind passing through the plant causes displacement of the “humidity umbrella” that the plant normally forms by transpiration. If the plant surface becomes desiccated, pests such as the two-spotted spider mite will thrive.


Before placing the crop, put a few bush beans in pots throughout the greenhouse. The beans will attract any pests that were missed by the clean-up, allowing you to redo the clean-up or use a more thorough technique.


Getting Started

When the pots are first watered, a soil mite such as Stratiolaelaps scimitus (Stratos) should be applied to the soil surface at a rate of 10 mites per square foot. They can be broadcast over the spaced out pots or trays. These soil mites will control fungus gnat larvae in the root zone, leading to a faster growth rate and healthier plants. Both mites also feed on pupating thrip larvae, helping thrip management by breaking the reproductive cycle.


Yellow sticky traps should be applied at least 1 trap for every 500 square feet. Care must be taken to ensure that the height of the traps does not exceed the height of the plants. Traps higher than the plants will not trap a representative sample of thrips.


Spider Mites

Spider mites are the most common and serious pest. This is due to the environment, plant stress and the plant itself. In general, spider mites hate high humidity. We actually manage our spider mite culture on bean plants just by misting them. If you are not battling botrytis or similar molds, try misting the affected areas on a regular schedule for a few days.


Prevention of spider mites is possible by applying Amblyseius fallacis at a rate of 2 mites per square foot. This generalist mite predator evenly establishes itself throughout the crop, preventing spider mite establishment under normal conditions. Hot spot outbreaks should be treated with Phytoseiulus persimilis at a rate of 1 mite per 100 spider mites for control within 1 week. Fallacis and persimilis are compatible and do not interfere with each other. Fallacis does not do well on webbing while persimilis specializes on it.


Stethorus punctillum is a tiny black beetle that thrives in low humidity situations. If you are unable to manage the climate effectively and the conditions for spider mite are extreme, Stethorus could save the crop. They should be applied at a rate of 0.1 per square foot, in extreme cases, or 0.01 per foot in moderate cases. These beetles find spider mites by smell and quickly move to new infestations, leaving behind their eggs and larvae to finish the job.


Another strategy to try is using bush bean plants amongst the crop. In some crops, such as tomato, this is a very effective strategy for pulling spider mites off the crop. Bean plants are also easy to monitor, as they show spider mite damage within hours. If the beans are moderately successful, apply persimilis to them to create a “banking” system, generating more persimilis that will move into the crop. If the beans are highly successful, carefully remove them and the spider mites and plant some more beans.



Aphids

Almost every plant gets aphids if the conditions are right. Over fertilizing leading to rapid, soft growth is what aphids look for. In general, very few aphids cause permanent damage, but their excrement, honeydew, can lead to sooty mold. If you have aphids, you must eliminate any ants first. Ants “farm” aphids, feeding on the honeydew. They will protect the aphids from predation and will actively move aphids around to “greener pastures” within your crop.


Once the ants are gone, aphids can easily be controlled by using Aphidoletes aphidimyza at a rate of 0.01 per square foot, weekly, until the aphids are eliminated. If you have a history of aphids, continue at this rate weekly for the duration of the crop.



Thrips

Thrips cause damage that is similar to spider mites. There is a subtle difference however. Thrips tend to scrape the leaf surface while spider mites pierce the leaf tissue and extract the chlorophyll. Thrips are tiny pests, capable of flying, although quite poor flyers. They are attracted to yellow and blue sticky traps, which when used in sufficient quantity can be effective management tools. Adding a cotton ball so you can drip vanilla or almond extracts can increase the trapping by a factor of 10.


Biological controls are limited. The predatory mite Amblyseius cucumeris is the best choice. These mites attack the first and second instar larvae. If enough cucumeris are present they are extremely effective, as they can sense the thrip emerging from the leaf, and wait for the thrip to stick its head out, biting it off. The presence of Stratos in the soil will ensure that the thrips cannot effectively cycle within your facility


Whitefly

Whitefly is not a common pest, but, pests tend to adapt, so we should discuss them briefly. Whitefly are a close relative to the aphid. Both of them suck. Both can quickly create excessive honeydew that will lead to sooty mold. If any whitefly is seen on the yellow sticky cards, begin applying the parasitic wasp Encarsia formosa at a rate of 0.02 per square foot, weekly.


Summary

This is a difficult crop as the plants have not been bred for protected climates. As a result, the plants are usually in some state of stress. Do what you can to minimize the stress by aggressively humidification and careful watering and nutrient balance.


The application of the soil mites is a critical first step, ensuring healthy root development by controlling fungus gnats and thrip management, by predating on the pupating thrips.


Many thanks to Applied Bionomics for these receommendations.

Spider mite is the traditional pest and can be prevented with the predatory mite fallacis. Outbreaks are best treated with persimilis and severe infestations due to poor climate are best dealt with by applying the beetle, Stethorus. The use of bush beans as monitoring/trapping plants should be investigated in this crop. If the crop ends with a spider mite problem, apply more Stratos to the floor area, focusing on cracks and any other breaks in the floor where the spider mites overwinter. The Stratos will feed on the dormant spider mites, reducing their return numbers significantly.


There is little you can do to prevent thrips. If they become a pest, apply cucumeris to the plants and apply vanilla or almond to the sticky traps by using cotton balls.


Thank you to Applied Bionomics for these recommendations
 

Greenthumbs256

Well-Known Member
https://www.naturalinsectcontrol.com/cat.php?cat=5

Email those guys theyll tell you a bunch of stuff .

Well heres what they sent me .

2018 Crop Recommendation

MedicalMarihuana


Overview

This crop is for human consumption. Every effort should be made to grow the crop without the use of chemical insecticides, fungicides or herbicides. When plants are grown in protected environments, they can be grown year ‘round, at a faster rate and with less physical damage. The protected environment however, also tends to make it easier for the pests to become established and to get out of control due to the exclusion of natural enemies from the surrounding environment.



Prior to planting

The greenhouse or growth chamber must be adequately cleaned of old plant material, obvious fungal residue and non-essential apparatus. A thorough cleaning with a detergent is highly recommended.


The climate must be appropriate for growing conditions. Stressed plants are much more susceptible to fungal pathogens and insect pests. Care must be taken to ensure that air circulation is efficient but not too intense, as a strong wind passing through the plant causes displacement of the “humidity umbrella” that the plant normally forms by transpiration. If the plant surface becomes desiccated, pests such as the two-spotted spider mite will thrive.


Before placing the crop, put a few bush beans in pots throughout the greenhouse. The beans will attract any pests that were missed by the clean-up, allowing you to redo the clean-up or use a more thorough technique.


Getting Started

When the pots are first watered, a soil mite such as Stratiolaelaps scimitus (Stratos) should be applied to the soil surface at a rate of 10 mites per square foot. They can be broadcast over the spaced out pots or trays. These soil mites will control fungus gnat larvae in the root zone, leading to a faster growth rate and healthier plants. Both mites also feed on pupating thrip larvae, helping thrip management by breaking the reproductive cycle.


Yellow sticky traps should be applied at least 1 trap for every 500 square feet. Care must be taken to ensure that the height of the traps does not exceed the height of the plants. Traps higher than the plants will not trap a representative sample of thrips.


Spider Mites

Spider mites are the most common and serious pest. This is due to the environment, plant stress and the plant itself. In general, spider mites hate high humidity. We actually manage our spider mite culture on bean plants just by misting them. If you are not battling botrytis or similar molds, try misting the affected areas on a regular schedule for a few days.


Prevention of spider mites is possible by applying Amblyseius fallacis at a rate of 2 mites per square foot. This generalist mite predator evenly establishes itself throughout the crop, preventing spider mite establishment under normal conditions. Hot spot outbreaks should be treated with Phytoseiulus persimilis at a rate of 1 mite per 100 spider mites for control within 1 week. Fallacis and persimilis are compatible and do not interfere with each other. Fallacis does not do well on webbing while persimilis specializes on it.


Stethorus punctillum is a tiny black beetle that thrives in low humidity situations. If you are unable to manage the climate effectively and the conditions for spider mite are extreme, Stethorus could save the crop. They should be applied at a rate of 0.1 per square foot, in extreme cases, or 0.01 per foot in moderate cases. These beetles find spider mites by smell and quickly move to new infestations, leaving behind their eggs and larvae to finish the job.


Another strategy to try is using bush bean plants amongst the crop. In some crops, such as tomato, this is a very effective strategy for pulling spider mites off the crop. Bean plants are also easy to monitor, as they show spider mite damage within hours. If the beans are moderately successful, apply persimilis to them to create a “banking” system, generating more persimilis that will move into the crop. If the beans are highly successful, carefully remove them and the spider mites and plant some more beans.



Aphids

Almost every plant gets aphids if the conditions are right. Over fertilizing leading to rapid, soft growth is what aphids look for. In general, very few aphids cause permanent damage, but their excrement, honeydew, can lead to sooty mold. If you have aphids, you must eliminate any ants first. Ants “farm” aphids, feeding on the honeydew. They will protect the aphids from predation and will actively move aphids around to “greener pastures” within your crop.


Once the ants are gone, aphids can easily be controlled by using Aphidoletes aphidimyza at a rate of 0.01 per square foot, weekly, until the aphids are eliminated. If you have a history of aphids, continue at this rate weekly for the duration of the crop.



Thrips

Thrips cause damage that is similar to spider mites. There is a subtle difference however. Thrips tend to scrape the leaf surface while spider mites pierce the leaf tissue and extract the chlorophyll. Thrips are tiny pests, capable of flying, although quite poor flyers. They are attracted to yellow and blue sticky traps, which when used in sufficient quantity can be effective management tools. Adding a cotton ball so you can drip vanilla or almond extracts can increase the trapping by a factor of 10.


Biological controls are limited. The predatory mite Amblyseius cucumeris is the best choice. These mites attack the first and second instar larvae. If enough cucumeris are present they are extremely effective, as they can sense the thrip emerging from the leaf, and wait for the thrip to stick its head out, biting it off. The presence of Stratos in the soil will ensure that the thrips cannot effectively cycle within your facility


Whitefly

Whitefly is not a common pest, but, pests tend to adapt, so we should discuss them briefly. Whitefly are a close relative to the aphid. Both of them suck. Both can quickly create excessive honeydew that will lead to sooty mold. If any whitefly is seen on the yellow sticky cards, begin applying the parasitic wasp Encarsia formosa at a rate of 0.02 per square foot, weekly.


Summary

This is a difficult crop as the plants have not been bred for protected climates. As a result, the plants are usually in some state of stress. Do what you can to minimize the stress by aggressively humidification and careful watering and nutrient balance.


The application of the soil mites is a critical first step, ensuring healthy root development by controlling fungus gnats and thrip management, by predating on the pupating thrips.


Many thanks to Applied Bionomics for these receommendations.

Spider mite is the traditional pest and can be prevented with the predatory mite fallacis. Outbreaks are best treated with persimilis and severe infestations due to poor climate are best dealt with by applying the beetle, Stethorus. The use of bush beans as monitoring/trapping plants should be investigated in this crop. If the crop ends with a spider mite problem, apply more Stratos to the floor area, focusing on cracks and any other breaks in the floor where the spider mites overwinter. The Stratos will feed on the dormant spider mites, reducing their return numbers significantly.


There is little you can do to prevent thrips. If they become a pest, apply cucumeris to the plants and apply vanilla or almond to the sticky traps by using cotton balls.


Thank you to Applied Bionomics for these recommendations
maybe your expertise could help me I'd really appreciate it! I'm literally almost in tears I'm so mad I'm tempted to kill and burn everything!

I have 2 spotted spider mites for about a year! I've used azamax, neem, diatomaceous earth, mighty wash, and recently spent 100 bucks on predatory mites! I found a damaged lead earlier and under further inspection found them swarming! can't find any predatory mites but tons of 2 spotted ones, but also pictured below I think there is tons of Egg or both preds, and 2 spot? am I correct? are they actually working and just need more time? I'm very lost and torn right now your help would be extremely appreciated!!!!!!
181025_033303.jpg 181025_033252.jpg
 

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
maybe your expertise could help me I'd really appreciate it! I'm literally almost in tears I'm so mad I'm tempted to kill and burn everything!

I have 2 spotted spider mites for about a year! I've used azamax, neem, diatomaceous earth, mighty wash, and recently spent 100 bucks on predatory mites! I found a damaged lead earlier and under further inspection found them swarming! can't find any predatory mites but tons of 2 spotted ones, but also pictured below I think there is tons of Egg or both preds, and 2 spot? am I correct? are they actually working and just need more time? I'm very lost and torn right now your help would be extremely appreciated!!!!!!
View attachment 4221228 View attachment 4221229
Have to tried spraying them off with water to control population?

Remove badly affected leaves.

Plant bush beans around the room as a monitor/sacrifice. They prefer the bean plants and you can throw em away .

Dont have your fans pointing right at your plants. Once you dry them out, mites move in easily.

They need a humidity pocket around them, mites hate humidity.
 

Greenthumbs256

Well-Known Member
Have to tried spraying them off with water to control population?

Remove badly affected leaves.

Plant bush beans around the room as a monitor/sacrifice. They prefer the bean plants and you can throw em away .

Dont have your fans pointing right at your plants. Once you dry them out, mites move in easily.

They need a humidity pocket around them, mites hate humidity.
OK yes I sprayed them off, yes always pulling every leaf with any spots, I'm going to have to look into the bean thing, what kinda beans do you recommend!

and just recently I've stared spraying plain water in flower to raise the humidity, as for the fan I thought the heavy wind was good for controlling the mites? should I have my fan off during lights out? and spray at lights out? that would create a humid and very moist environment, I expect never had a mold issue but I'm sure I can't go too crazy on that!

also from the pics can u tell the difference between predatory eggs and the 2 spotted mite eggs? I'm hoping tat the preds are still around!
 

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
Fan off during lights out

Point fans at the wall or lights. Not the plant.

You want air circulation.

Blasting with fans is what spidermites want . Once you dry out the leaf for them, its easy for them to move in.

Any kind of bush beans.
Grow a hand full because your likely to lose the first few fast if youve got a bad infestation
 

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
OK yes I sprayed them off, yes always pulling every leaf with any spots, I'm going to have to look into the bean thing, what kinda beans do you recommend!

and just recently I've stared spraying plain water in flower to raise the humidity, as for the fan I thought the heavy wind was good for controlling the mites? should I have my fan off during lights out? and spray at lights out? that would create a humid and very moist environment, I expect never had a mold issue but I'm sure I can't go too crazy on that!

also from the pics can u tell the difference between predatory eggs and the 2 spotted mite eggs? I'm hoping tat the preds are still around!
I Cant tell the difference, maybe somone can.

Spray an hour befor lights come on.

You dont want mold either.... Slow changes buddy

Go from dry plant with lots of dead meterial to a swamp type conditions your going see mold form on anything dead.

Get a humidifoer or dehumidifier Whatever you need in your part of the world to get to 55 - 60 humidity and youll be fine.
 

Greenthumbs256

Well-Known Member
I Cant tell the difference, maybe somone can.

Spray an hour befor lights come on.

You dont want mold either.... Slow changes buddy

Go from dry plant with lots of dead meterial to a swamp type conditions your going see mold form on anything dead.

Get a humidifoer or dehumidifier Whatever you need in your part of the world to get to 55 - 60 humidity and youll be fine.
thanks for the info! I will give it all a try! thank you!
 

Strudelheim

Well-Known Member
isolate the room and use hot shot no pest strips? only on veg plants to preserve stock, then kill all flowering plants. Im just thinking if youve been battling it for a year and putting in so much time into dealing with it. scrap some plants, quarantine a couple mom clones, and in 1-2 months you can start flowering again and have a fresh start.
 

SCJedi

Well-Known Member
maybe your expertise could help me I'd really appreciate it! I'm literally almost in tears I'm so mad I'm tempted to kill and burn everything!

I have 2 spotted spider mites for about a year! I've used azamax, neem, diatomaceous earth, mighty wash, and recently spent 100 bucks on predatory mites! I found a damaged lead earlier and under further inspection found them swarming! can't find any predatory mites but tons of 2 spotted ones, but also pictured below I think there is tons of Egg or both preds, and 2 spot? am I correct? are they actually working and just need more time? I'm very lost and torn right now your help would be extremely appreciated!!!!!!
View attachment 4221228 View attachment 4221229
I have been there and done that. I now do what you are fearing you need to do. I take it all down, spray Avid and Forbid all over the space and around it, bleach, 35% H202, and toss containers, stakes, etc. Reintroduce plants and keep pets and carpet far away.

Predatory mites are good for prevention, not eradication of an infestation. Same with soft solutions like Flying Skull. (in my opinion)

DE is OK for crawlers but 2-spotted mites live on the undersides of leaves where it is hard to dust. It also won't do anything for eggs. Azamax is concentrated azadirachtin which is just the active ingredient of neem.

I have gone as far as hang a Tyvek suit at the entrance and suit up when I enter my rooms. I also don't every accept clones from anyone without a dip and a quarantine. I have mites in my backyard because it is hot and dry here. It is only a matter of time before they make it to the indoor spot. I spray the floor of the garage around the outside of my space as well as the concrete patio in between it and the back yard area.

Good luck!
 

Greenthumbs256

Well-Known Member
so guys I have a question!

some of you know I been playing around with sip pots! well I filled one about 2 weeks ago and grew in the top layer of mycelium, well I went to check it today and pulled off the black trash bag, to find thousands of tiny whitish mites all over the place, it seems my mycelium kinda died off and all over the top of soil and inside of the trash bag lid are thousands of tiny mites!!! I've had a spider mite issue is the past but these don't look like the two spotted spider mites?

is it possible these are good soil mites that break down organic mats, and I shouldnt be worried?
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
so guys I have a question!

some of you know I been playing around with sip pots! well I filled one about 2 weeks ago and grew in the top layer of mycelium, well I went to check it today and pulled off the black trash bag, to find thousands of tiny whitish mites all over the place, it seems my mycelium kinda died off and all over the top of soil and inside of the trash bag lid are thousands of tiny mites!!! I've had a spider mite issue is the past but these don't look like the two spotted spider mites?

is it possible these are good soil mites that break down organic mats, and I shouldnt be worried?
If they're fast moving they're young hypoaspis predatory mites. They probably fed on all the mycelium. They love it.

I once fermented a batch of bokashi for too long and when i opened the bin. All the mycelium and half the grains were gone. There was a ton of hypoaspis mites and insect frass in there. I ended up dumping the whole thing. I just didn't want to deal with it.
 
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hyroot

Well-Known Member
Predatory mites are good for prevention, not eradication of an infestation (in my opinion)
Depends on the type of predatory mites and pests. Andersoni mites within 2 weeks will wipe out a bad infestation of white flies, 2 spotted spider mites, red spider mites, russet mites, and broad mites.

Swirskii mites and hypoaspis mites will wipe out thrips, aphids, gnats and 2 spotted spider mites.

Californicus mites won't do a damn thing against pests. Ladybugs will barely do anything against any pest.

You just need the right predator insect whose main diet consists of the pests you are dealing with.
 

Greenthumbs256

Well-Known Member
If they're fast moving they're young hyopaspis predatory mites. They probably fed on all the mycelium. They love it.

I once fermented a batch of bokashi for too long and when i opened the bin. All the mycelium and half the grains were gone. There was a ton of hypoaspis mites and insect frass in there. I ended up dumping the whole thing. I juat didn't want to deal with it.
you really know your shit! thanks man I appreciate it! it seems to me that's what they are, so basically I can just let them be?
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
you really know your shit! thanks man I appreciate it! it seems to me that's what they are, so basically I can just let them be?
They will die off once their food source is gone or completely broken down or when their time is up. Their life cycle is only a few weeks. They also feed on organic matter like compost that hasn't broken down yet and fungus.
 
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Greenthumbs256

Well-Known Member
hey guys can anyone tell me what would happen if I put an air stone into a res with em1?

I'm trying to find out if there is any benefits to doing this in my sip pot!
 
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