Organic no till, probiotic, knf, jadam, vermicomposting, soil mixes, sips etc... Q & A

hyroot

Well-Known Member
I found a podcast with the founder of Gro-Kashi, Alan Adkisson. He explained that LABS would detoxify manure. He also noted that he adds vitamins and minerals to his gro-kashi. I'm sure that he don't want to give away his secret, but I'm curious as to what minerals that he is using. He also noted that he was a judge at the Emerald Cup and all of the winners have been high brix, nutrient dense. I think that I am starting to get the hang of this!!! It's great finding podcasts, because I can do other things and learn at the same time...
The gro kashi recipe is on the gro kashi site and in the file section in the pfa group and on build a soil's site. The inputs are pretty expensive. You're going to spend a lot to make your own gro kashi. The em super cera costs $65 and youngevity costs $65.

Dry Ingredient List:

  • Red Wheat 5 gallon
  • Azomite 1 cup
  • Sea+Real Salt 1 TBSP
Liquid Fermentation Ingredient List (plus 1/5 teaspoon EM Super Cera)

  • Water 2.5 Gallons (spring water or other non chlorinated, cloromine free water)
  • Black Strap Mollasses 2.5 Oz
  • Organic Beet Root Juice 2.5 Oz
  • Youngevity btt 2.0 organic 2.5 Oz (dry, but mix with your water)
  • EM-1 Microbial Innoculant 2.5 Oz
 
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hyroot

Well-Known Member
Hey Hyroot, last few questions. Will I want/need to take off a bunch of soil from the root ball, or just shave the existing roots on outside and then place in bigger pot?

If I do have to take a lot of the rootball out, Will the extra amount of soil prohibit the roots from moving out, and risk the possibility of overwatering?

I’m also guessing I’m going to need to stagger the top dressing like today do the Malted Barley and Kashi, then in a few days do Worm Castings or just the next time I water?
If you cut the root ball. The roots will explode. You can stagger top dressing. Its not necessary.
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
i have neem meal as an ammendment, i didn't think that was as effective as an insect repelent or whatever in that form/concentration. and i realize compost SHOULD have plenty of nematodes in it but how would we know which varieties we have or that they prefer gnat larvae. i am sure the microbiology of my compost is way different than the next guys, i wouldn't rest my garden's mite free future on the microbiology of my compost naturally. let's put it this way. i already have fungus gnats and the seedlings are 3 days old lol. this is in my composted super soil so clearly that isn't gonna cut the mustard. in 3 weeks i will be infested ik how this gnat thing goes. i just started over because of mites and remodeling i'd like to not play catch up like in the past. are you saying adding nematodes isn't a thing ppl do on there to kill existing gnats in conjunction with yellow strips because atm that was my plan
Top dress a 2 inch layer of non manure compost or worm castings. Gnats will be gone in a week.

You can also add nematodes even though they're already present in compost. Mosy hydro shops carry nematodes.
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
The gro kashi recipe is on the gro kashi site and in the file section in the pfa group and on build a soil's site. The inputs are pretty expensive. You're going to spend over $200 to make your own gro kashi.
I'm mostly interested in the minerals that he is using since he talks directly about high brix. I'll see if I can find it.
There was more to his podcast than what goes into his gro-kashi. He was raised on a dairy farm and in '94 he realized that the silage that was treated with LABS was running off into the manure lagoon. He said that the lagoon went from barren and toxic to frogs and ducks. I've been complaining about rabbit manure and I never seemed to get good results from it, and this could be the answer! LABS take out the toxicity from manure, it blew my mind!!!

https://www.shapingfire.com/podcast-feed/episode-15-open-source-probiotic-cannabis-with-guest-alan-adkisson
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
Dry Ingredient List:

  • Red Wheat 5 gallon
  • Azomite 1 cup
  • Sea+Real Salt 1 TBSP
Liquid Fermentation Ingredient List (plus 1/5 teaspoon EM Super Cera)

  • Water 2.5 Gallons (spring water or other non chlorinated, cloromine free water)
  • Black Strap Mollasses 2.5 Oz
  • Organic Beet Root Juice 2.5 Oz
  • Youngevity btt 2.0 organic 2.5 Oz (dry, but mix with your water)
  • EM-1 Microbial Innoculant 2.5 Oz
I am currently looking at the BAS website. I had a bad encounter with BAS and I was let down by their "Modern Mix v2.0 w/ Oly mnt fish compost" I was experiencing the exact same problems as I was with my manure composts. I had it tested and it had extremely high P and very low micros. Did I mention that I bought a pallet of the soil for $1k. Maybe I'm a dumbass for not trying a small bag first??? Anyways, here is what BAS says about high phosphates. Funny, because the soil they sold me was 10x too high in P and I had it tested at Logan Labs which is a well known laboratory.

https://buildasoil.com/blogs/news/14100173-high-phosphorus-amendments

This is the article from the Probiotics Farmers Association, but I didn't see the recipe. It must be hidden.
https://buildasoil.com/blogs/news/17784352-modern-cannabist-an-introduction-to-probiotic-organics-from-a-pfa-member

Anyways, I have pink Himalayan salt and SEA90 which is a naturally dehydrated sea salt. I thought that people were against Azomite because of the high amounts of Al? I've been able to keep my Al count very low in the past, but my trace/micros have also been low...

I didn't understand soil testing at the time and I should have got a solubility test to go along with the Mehlich 3. This is the BAS "Modern Mix v2.0 w/ Oly Mnt Fish Compost". A solubility test would have shown the micros/trace elements lower from lock-out. At least, my compost had a lower Al count than BAS's soil. I had to cut off my name in the pic, but the yellow column is the value found and the numbers to the right are the desired value.
DSC00971.JPG
 
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outliergenetix

Well-Known Member
Top dress a 2 inch layer of non manure compost or worm castings. Gnats will be gone in a week.

You can also add nematodes even though they're already present in compost. Mosy hydro shops carry nematodes.
thank you i will try those as a top dressing, i already saw how cheap nematodes are on amazon etc.. i think imma do a few nematode runs to help get this under control to. multi pronged attack lol
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
The gro kashi recipe is on the gro kashi site and in the file section in the pfa group and on build a soil's site. The inputs are pretty expensive. You're going to spend a lot to make your own gro kashi. The em super cera costs $65 and youngevity costs $65.
Sorry for going on a rant about BAS. I guess that my point is that you can make better soil at home and it is hard to buy a good soil. I wasted a bunch of money...

I should focus more on my questions. My biggest one is about Azomite. I haven't been using it because I got caught up in the whole "Aluminum Levels" argument and I ASSumed that it was bad. I understand that Al causes Alzheimer, but the plant might not absorb it unless the Ph is very low. I've never had plant tissue sampled, so I don't have a clue.
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
Sorry for going on a rant about BAS. I guess that my point is that you can make better soil at home and it is hard to buy a good soil. I wasted a bunch of money...

I should focus more on my questions. My biggest one is about Azomite. I haven't been using it because I got caught up in the whole "Aluminum Levels" argument and I ASSumed that it was bad. I understand that Al causes Alzheimer, but the plant might not absorb it unless the Ph is very low. I've never had plant tissue sampled, so I don't have a clue.

Modern microbes isn't around anymore. The guy Antonio i think is his name. Couldn't afford to keep it going. They closed doors a while ago.

I never bought soil from bas due to shipping costs. I only buy amendments or other small items.

The aluminum oxide gets bioremediated out from the the em1 and em super cera being in there. Like how labs removes toxicity from manure. Plus the azomite is an anti clumping agent.
 
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hyroot

Well-Known Member
thank you i will try those as a top dressing, i already saw how cheap nematodes are on amazon etc.. i think imma do a few nematode runs to help get this under control to. multi pronged attack lol

Buy nematodes in person. Don't order them. Most likely they will be doa if you order them. They are very sensitive to low and high temps or dramatic environmental changes.
 
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MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
Modern microbes isn't around anymore. The guy Antonio i think is his name. Couldn't afford to keep it going. They closed doors a while ago.
It was Dec. 2016 when I placed my order from BAS... Don't get me wrong, one of my best harvest came from amending compost with their "Nutrient Kit", the one similar to the Coots kit. I kept adding stuff after that good harvest and messed everything up.

The aluminum oxide gets bioremediated out from the the em1 and em super cera being in there. Like how labs removes toxicity from manure. Plus the azomite is an anti clumping agent.
I was trying to figure out what Super Cera is, but didn't get very far. $65 is not too much and really, I would do anything to get back on track right now...
 

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
I'm mostly interested in the minerals that he is using since he talks directly about high brix. I'll see if I can find it.
There was more to his podcast than what goes into his gro-kashi. He was raised on a dairy farm and in '94 he realized that the silage that was treated with LABS was running off into the manure lagoon. He said that the lagoon went from barren and toxic to frogs and ducks. I've been complaining about rabbit manure and I never seemed to get good results from it, and this could be the answer! LABS take out the toxicity from manure, it blew my mind!!!

https://www.shapingfire.com/podcast-feed/episode-15-open-source-probiotic-cannabis-with-guest-alan-adkisson
Love those *lightbulb* moments when everything just clicks and is made perfectly clear how things fit together.

LABS bring all kinds of benefits and are both cheap and easy for DIY.

Wet
 

DankTankerous

Well-Known Member
@hyroot do you know of any cheaper brands that sell aloe Vera flakes and Coconut water/powder cheaper than BaS? I love them, but they’re just really pricey. Like is there an alternative No-Till amendments online store?
 

Avant_Gardener

Active Member
@hyroot do you know of any cheaper brands that sell aloe Vera flakes and Coconut water/powder cheaper than BaS? I love them, but they’re just really pricey. Like is there an alternative No-Till amendments online store?
Before I order from BAS, I always check with KIS Organics too. Most of the time I purchase through them. Its just an option...
 

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
You have a lot of unnecessary amendments. The bone meals and manures will make the soil run pretty hot. I'd mix it
50/50 with soil that has not been amended. I would water with compost teas and seed sprout tea to break every thing down faster plus add Bokashi and Bokashi will definitely speed up cooking process breaking everything down much faster.

The bone meals and manures and guanos will make the cooking time take longer too




For my initial soil mix

per cubic foot
1 part ewc / compost, 1 part peat moss, 1 part aeration ( garden pumice)
½ cup kelp meal
½ cup crab shell meal
¼ cup ahimsa indian neem cake
¼ cup karanja cake
1 cup glacial rock dust
1 cup gypsum rock dust
2 cups basalt rock dust

Then I re-amend twice a year with half as much.

I feed ferments. Each once a week.
During flower Lab and Flower power FFE

During veg FPJ and Lab

Every 2 - 3 weeks in veg and flower I top dress bokashi and castings and occasionally top dress pureed malted barley.

Foliar sprays once a week
During veg and early flower I foliar spray with an alfalfa tea, Lab, Citrus ferment, and aloe. But each one separately.

During transition I foliar spray with wcap ( fermented charred animal bones) and wcp ( fermented charred egg shells).

I also add worms to the soil and have a worm bin and make my own castings. In the bin i feed the worms veggie scraps, alfalfa meal, bokashi, pulverized egg shells and charred animal bones, and left over material from making bubble hash. The bedding is a layered mix of dried leaves and coco.

I also like to use Azos sometimes when watering during veg.

i get all the extra needed micro and macro nutrients from bokashi and ferments
I noticed you left out malted barley seed 1/2cup

Any reason or just prefer top dress now?
 

DynamiteBob

Well-Known Member
I’m about to make a lacto serum and have some buttermilk leftover in the fridge. Do you guys think it will work in place of regular milk?
 
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