Organic no till, probiotic, knf, jadam, vermicomposting, soil mixes, sips etc... Q & A

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
It all depends on what you're growing. Even different cannabis strains need more or less of various elements. So its all subjective.
The problem is that they got in my head and it's hard for me to tell what is important. What I mean is my compost is usually 15x too high in P, 10x too high in N and K, but very low in trace/micros. Maybe, I need to focus less on the abundance and more on the deficiency? I was stuck on what Lowenfels said about P and N abundance would keep the roots from sending signals for the root exudes. However, they didn't specify how much was too much. Plus, I figured out that I have always been low in trace minerals and it wasn't all about the P locking them out...
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
@hyroot i have a few more questions for ya:

Will the Kashi and Malted Barley take down the pH? And how long do you think it’ll take before I know it’s doing it’s job? I’m asking because i’d Like to pop some new beans here in 3 weeks if it doesn’t turn out

Also I’m seeing the soil is compacted because it’s taking forever for the plants to drink. I submerged her in water 4 days ago to get a full watering, a lot of the plant wasn’t getting watered it just ran off. Will the mycelium break up the compacted? I also can’t find any of my worms which I’m guessing is due to pH being off.

What will happen to all the extra ph buffers (gypsum, crab meal, oyster shell, greensand, etc) that made the soil too alkaline, since they haven’t been eaten by the plants because of high pH?

Will I have to keep the top moist for the mycelium? How would I do that without over watering?

Thanks for all your help Hyroot

It should take a week. You can. Make a bokashi tea to speed things up. Just steep the bokashi in water for 2 days. To make a tea.

If soil is too compacted then you might have to till it a little. I dump the soil out of my pots once a year and remix the soil due to compacting. Worms only do so much.

Yes you want to keep the top layer at least damp for the mycelium to form so add mulch or a plastic cover.

The mycelium will break down other amendments faster. Except for maybe green sand. That usually takes a couple years to break down.

Like i said in another post. Having soill over amended. I'd transplant it into a larget pot that has just base soil thats not amended.

Like super soil is heavily amended. Its layered 50/50 with unamended soil when planted because it runs so hot.
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
The problem is that they got in my head and it's hard for me to tell what is important. What I mean is my compost is usually 15x too high in P, 10x too high in N and K, but very low in trace/micros. Maybe, I need to focus less on the abundance and more on the deficiency? I was stuck on what Lowenfels said about P and N abundance would keep the roots from sending signals for the root exudes. However, they didn't specify how much was too much. Plus, I figured out that I have always been low in trace minerals and it wasn't all about the P locking them out...
What are you composting? Start adding more diverse inputs that have a full spectrum of nutrients and minerals. Fruits, veggies, amendments, leaves, grains, etc...
 

Strudelheim

Well-Known Member
What are you composting? Start adding more diverse inputs that have a full spectrum of nutrients and minerals. Fruits, veggies, amendments, leaves, grains, etc...
Agreed, when you say yours is 15X what it should be, that seems like a lot. Compost is pretty balanced and low as far as the npk. Start another compost and add other things, or mix 30% compost 30% shredded paper 30% leaves and start a worm bin. Then feed that in a more controlled manner so you know whats going in. It also breaks down within 1-2 months and is ready to use. If your not doing something like this, I think that will make a difference, and thats the takeaway from all the organic authors and gurus as the one and most important aspect of organic gardening. compost and worms.
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
What are you composting? Start adding more diverse inputs that have a full spectrum of nutrients and minerals. Fruits, veggies, amendments, leaves, grains, etc...
What was happening was I was giving my best food scraps to my rabbits. I gave them away for free and been adding better inputs to the compost/worms.

I added some of my old veggie soup to the worm bin and they loved it! I don't use meat, salt, or seasoning to my soup only herbs. They formed a breeding ball under where I poured the soup. I mostly use oak leaves, grass clippings, and rabbit bedding(straw and alfalfa hay). I don't have the rabbits, but I still have a lot of bedding compost.
DSC01061.JPG

Here is my pure leaf mold. I've had it for 12mo now and it is not close to being finished. However, I am getting good fungal growth in places.
DSC01056.JPG
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
Agreed, when you say yours is 15X what it should be, that seems like a lot. Compost is pretty balanced and low as far as the npk. Start another compost and add other things, or mix 30% compost 30% shredded paper 30% leaves and start a worm bin. Then feed that in a more controlled manner so you know whats going in. It also breaks down within 1-2 months and is ready to use. If your not doing something like this, I think that will make a difference, and thats the takeaway from all the organic authors and gurus as the one and most important aspect of organic gardening. compost and worms.
Do you know the hardest part about being a cat lover? It's telling your parents that your gay...
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
This is my cat that has a dog personality. His name is Max Tiberius Powers.

I can take him for walks and he will follow me all over town, no litter box. He goes outside and buries it. He listens and responds to commands for the most part.

He is 10 years old and just as rambunctious as a puppy. He will fuck up any dog.

He will either lure a dog into the bushes and leaps at the dog jacki chan style slashing the dogs face up. Or he climbs up 5 feet of a tree and leaps onto the dog slashing away. He does get along with dogs that are his same size right away. Larger dogs he gets along with after he whoops their ass.

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projectinfo

Well-Known Member
Do you know the hardest part about being a cat lover? It's telling your parents that your gay...
What was happening was I was giving my best food scraps to my rabbits. I gave them away for free and been adding better inputs to the compost/worms.

I added some of my old veggie soup to the worm bin and they loved it! I don't use meat, salt, or seasoning to my soup only herbs. They formed a breeding ball under where I poured the soup. I mostly use oak leaves, grass clippings, and rabbit bedding(straw and alfalfa hay). I don't have the rabbits, but I still have a lot of bedding compost.
View attachment 4223987

Here is my pure leaf mold. I've had it for 12mo now and it is not close to being finished. However, I am getting good fungal growth in places.
View attachment 4224003
Stop using rabbit shit.? Just a guess.
 

DankTankerous

Well-Known Member
It should take a week. You can. Make a bokashi tea to speed things up. Just steep the bokashi in water for 2 days. To make a tea.

If soil is too compacted then you might have to till it a little. I dump the soil out of my pots once a year and remix the soil due to compacting. Worms only do so much.

Yes you want to keep the top layer at least damp for the mycelium to form so add mulch or a plastic cover.

The mycelium will break down other amendments faster. Except for maybe green sand. That usually takes a couple years to break down.

Like i said in another post. Having soill over amended. I'd transplant it into a larget pot that has just base soil thats not amended.

Like super soil is heavily amended. Its layered 50/50 with unamended soil when planted because it runs so hot.
Thank you so much! Would you recommend that I transplant and try to take off a bunch of the alkaline over-amended soil and put it into Unamended soil? Then apply the Kashi?

Do I need a high power air pump for the tea? Shall I apply the Kashi, tea next time I water then the Malted Barley?
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
Hey dude this is an accepting community no need for those remarks. Chill out and. Forget about it
After being on here for years, it's hard for me to allow teens to punk me around. They wouldn't be saying this to my face!

They keep turning this into a pissing match and everyone is looking at me. I'm fine with being the dick in the room because I get paid well to be crazy. Seriously, I get $52k/yr because the war made me unstable. I've been exposed to too many blasts and I now have TBI(Traumatic Brain Injury). I don't appreciate kids trying to punk on me. They def wouldn't be saying this to my face, they hide behind computer screens.

My animals are between 8-12yrs old.
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hyroot

Well-Known Member
Thank you so much! Would you recommend that I transplant and try to take off a bunch of the alkaline over-amended soil and put it into Unamended soil? Then apply the Kashi?

Do I need a high power air pump for the tea? Shall I apply the Kashi, tea next time I water then the Malted Barley?
Transplant into a larger pot. Fill the bottom and sides of the larger pot with unamended soil.

Then top dress bokashi and malted barley. Then top dress castings and or compost. Then add a mulch cover.

For a bokashi tea. No pump is needed. It's an anaerobic tea. So just steep the kashi in the water. Do not aerate!
 

DankTankerous

Well-Known Member
Transplant into a larger pot. Fill the bottom and sides of the larger pot with unamended soil.

Then top dress bokashi and malted barley. Then top dress castings and or compost. Then add a mulch cover.

For a bokashi tea. No pump is needed. It's an anaerobic tea. So just steep the kashi in the water. Do not aerate!
Hey Hyroot, last few questions. Will I want/need to take off a bunch of soil from the root ball, or just shave the existing roots on outside and then place in bigger pot?

If I do have to take a lot of the rootball out, Will the extra amount of soil prohibit the roots from moving out, and risk the possibility of overwatering?

I’m also guessing I’m going to need to stagger the top dressing like today do the Malted Barley and Kashi, then in a few days do Worm Castings or just the next time I water?
 

outliergenetix

Well-Known Member
sorry to butt in guys/gals but how do you no till ppl handle fungus gnats? i have bought my ammendments and seedlings sprouted for the first of many re-used soil runs, but i assume top dressing with gnat nix and so on is not a good idea with no till or re-using soil more specifically. i have read mixed reviews on amazon for nematodes. my concern is thegnats will be even worse with leaves as top dressing and using compost from worm bin etc.. so before i get knee deep in gnats in cpl weeks can someone give me some IPM advice for gnats with a re-ammended soil regiment
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
I found a podcast with the founder of Gro-Kashi, Alan Adkisson. He explained that LABS would detoxify manure. He also noted that he adds vitamins and minerals to his gro-kashi. I'm sure that he don't want to give away his secret, but I'm curious as to what minerals that he is using. He also noted that he was a judge at the Emerald Cup and all of the winners have been high brix, nutrient dense. I think that I am starting to get the hang of this!!! It's great finding podcasts, because I can do other things and learn at the same time...
 

outliergenetix

Well-Known Member
Compost has nematodes in it along with other beneficials. Most people on here use neem/karanja meal along with crustacean meal(chitin) and barley seed(chitinase). IPM strategies that go in the soil.
i have neem meal as an ammendment, i didn't think that was as effective as an insect repelent or whatever in that form/concentration. and i realize compost SHOULD have plenty of nematodes in it but how would we know which varieties we have or that they prefer gnat larvae. i am sure the microbiology of my compost is way different than the next guys, i wouldn't rest my garden's mite free future on the microbiology of my compost naturally. let's put it this way. i already have fungus gnats and the seedlings are 3 days old lol. this is in my composted super soil so clearly that isn't gonna cut the mustard. in 3 weeks i will be infested ik how this gnat thing goes. i just started over because of mites and remodeling i'd like to not play catch up like in the past. are you saying adding nematodes isn't a thing ppl do on there to kill existing gnats in conjunction with yellow strips because atm that was my plan
 

outliergenetix

Well-Known Member
Sorry man, it's been such a long time since I have even seen gnats...
ig i should take that as good news then lol. i think i need to eradicate them totally before i can expect the compost and ammendments to do their work. i think the coir i bought must have came with gnats man. i use 1/3 coir instead of peat because it is easier for me to procure
 
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