mushroom grow bag help

testtime

Well-Known Member
I STARTED to agree with the patience comment, but then I compared it to green growing.

Green growing had about 2 months of "setup" (veg) (either seed->male/female split, cloning for sex, etc), or clone prep (a bit quicker, but not much more than growing from seed), and then the 2-4 month flowering process.

This produces between 1 and 4 dry ounces per typical plant, which may last me between 2 weeks and 2 months of smoking, but will be gone in a blink in a weekend with friends.

Assume 4 plants growing continuously in dirt. This requires SERIOUS space, electricity, lighting, light isolation, fans, airflow, etc. And don't forget you have to keep a stream of clones from a couple of mother plants. This is DAILY (and sometime hourly) attention. Back breaking (those full dunk waterings are no fun), and fragile (oh fuck, a bit too much HST on that branch, get out the duct tape).

4 plants times 3oz == 12oz. It took about 5 months to grow that. If you want, at that point, you can produce 12oz per month, but you will need a bunch more space and (you know, stuff) for the various plants in the grow stages, and again, lots of real work.

Also, this is all high attention high risk stuff. The heat and smell and noise and vibrations are dead giveaways. They can be dealt with, but at significant cost in equipment and electricity.

The following is based on a known mycelium / pin / grow rate for a typical PC strain. It took me about 6 months of experimentation before I hit this group of strains and process.

Assuming decent mycelium grow rate, BRF knock up to birth is about 2 weeks. Use the SMALLEST jars possible. The goal is not fruiting volume, it is to get the fastest growing fastest maturing mycilium in the smallest amount of time.

Use the largest assortment of spores as possible from the largest number of strains. This is a numbers game. Your particular envirionment and nutrient mix might not mix well with a "default" strain, but it is highly probable you will hit multiple winners this way.

I do NOT go direct to grain, I would much rather go to BRF jar. BRF jars have less of a chance of contams, simply based on size, time to sterilize, and the relationship between starting points vs total volume means they grow faster. On the other hand, I want some isolates (carved from early pinning mushrooms in the jar). Also, I've had multiple spores that simply refused to germinate in rye grain jars, but would happily grown in BRF and then transfer to grain.

Note: I do NOT birth for fruiting, I birth into a glove box and knock up grain jars.

Also, this is the time to choose any particular fast growing patch (and if it is from an early pin in the jar, YAY) from the BRF to put in the grain jar. Use the SMALLEST amount of innoculant possible to isolate the strain.

10 days later, shaking every 3 days, the grain jars are ready.

Note: I have at least 10 times the number of grain jars than I have birthing space at any given moment, and I'll use a lower temperature to slow the growth down of the ones I'm not ready to use, and throw them in the fridge if they finish before I can use them. But at that point the supply of ready to case material is near infinite, and the starting point of BRF inoculations are over.

Any of those grain jars can start a new one (times 20). You just want to limit the g2g and start from a primary generation, rather than make additional generations (limits mutations, hold strength better). So save a couple of the originals that were created from the BRF for future jar creation. Like mother plants.

Bulk layout and wait for tray colonisation is usually about 6-10 days. The ONLY limiting factor here is space. And these trays are not fruiting and need no light, so you can pack them tight.

Next, case and pin. This needs space. Assume 12-16 of these running at any given moment in an enclosed standalone set of shelves, controlled humidity, air flow, and low lighting. This is about a week before 1st pin set.

41 days so far.

Each flush will take from 3-6 days, with a resting period of a week in between each.

If you wanted, you could TRIPLE your production at this point merely by swapping out the resting trays with newly pinning ones. But you better have extra fruiting space if you mis-judge the rates. So I'll drop that to double.

3 flushes x (6+7) = 39

80 days for full run.

And we already had something usable at 50 days. As compared to 5 months growing pot. Trust me when I say this is nothing compared to the patience you learn growing fucking slow sativa.

Assume an average production of 3oz per tray (no matter how many flushes or tray, you get great, you get an occasional poor, just average it out), times 12 active trays times 2 for the tray swapouts factor = 72 oz.

How long would it take you to consume 72 oz of mushrooms? Even compressed, do you have any idea how much volume that is? And since it is for long term use, do you have freezer space or the desire to do chemical extracts?

And that is for the 1st cycle!

At this point, if you continued to grow, it takes almost no space, no light, no electricity, no effort. With almost no unwanted attention since it needs almost no light and generates no heat.

It simply becomes a matter of harvesting trays.

The 1st harvest will be fun, cleaning will be fun, setting up the dryer will be fun.

The next, not so much.

You will quickly realise it is NOT fun to harvest, it is a pain in the ass, and you really have WAY too many mushrooms and you have to stop.

And at that point you will never have to think about it again, unless you are are sharing the knowledge and trying to help people become independent of the dealers. If you want to deal, that's your issue and risk, I just want anybody who wants to be able to have their own, to have them. Without going to the deal making risk.

If somehow you misjudged your needed quantity and wanted to restart, you would have had those original known good strains in jars in a fridge. They keep (oh, if not forever, long enough). You would go straight to grain at that point.

And if those failed, you kept some spore prints? Right? You wouldn't have gone through all this effort without making sure you'd never need to mail order again? Just in case they clamped down on it in the future. Right?

Ok, so that's my rant on patience value of shrooms vs pot, plus some additional suggestions to the world.
 

DaSprout

Well-Known Member
Actually, I was referring to the patience of "inactivity". The ability to let things "be". I can understand why canndo mentioned "confidence". You need to have the confidence in yourself to believe that you actually did things correctly when you began the project. And now you don't have to worry about it. You can let it be. Which is actually best, this way you don't go 'round messing with things. And end up screwing the pooch. Unlike cannibus. Mushies aren't really as hands on. Not all jars colonize at the same time. Not all strains move at the same pace. So you can literally go for days, weeks, or even a month and not see any big movements. Then pow, they're moving. And not contaminated. But in the days preceeding the headway, you may begin to doubt yourself. And in that doubt you may end up questioning what you have done, or haven't done. And you may take certain actions. Which in some way can help, or urge things along. But in reality. You are more than likely setting yourself up for another mess. Or more jars to deal with. Or if you tried something and ruin everything. Cannibus is different. At least for me. I always worked with hydro styles. I always saw headway daily. Even from the very first time. Where I fumbled a little. I was always confident. Because everyday was a visible move forward. I have to admit. The actual time between the two grows is definitely different. Under 2 months for mushrooms. Under 3 months for the green. It's just about how you see the two different projects as being. It's not about the actual time. For me.
 

morfin56

New Member
Testtime, I'm not going to read that whole thing but there is one thing I can tell you after reading the first few sentences.
Pot and cubensis mushrooms are nothing alike.

I also believe patience is key.
Waiting till fully colonized(when to spawn) and/or waiting for substrate to colonize fully(when to birth) are both very important, if your inpatient and get a contam, you are fucked.
 

joeyjoejoe

Well-Known Member
first flush is over. just dunked and rolled .i would say i got almost a quarter off my first flush.i have a couple questions

1. how often do i need to change the perlite in the fruiting chamber?

2.can these be stored in a bag with some dessicant for a very long time?i just ordered some(dessicant/silcone packs). they have dried in front of a fan on a paper towell for the last 24hours. now they are in a drawer in an opened ziploc bag. i repeat opened . when should i be able to seal it it ? in a day or two?

thanks for looking


phone 011.jpgphone 012.jpg
 

DaSprout

Well-Known Member
Now it begins for you buddy. Have some fun. They can last at room temp add a desicant bag. Or in your freezer. But I have a feeling that these first ones wont be lasting you too long. Have fun. Later.
 

canndo

Well-Known Member
I STARTED to agree with the patience comment, but then I compared it to green growing.

Green growing had about 2 months of "setup" (veg) (either seed->male/female split, cloning for sex, etc), or clone prep (a bit quicker, but not much more than growing from seed), and then the 2-4 month flowering process.

This produces between 1 and 4 dry ounces per typical plant, which may last me between 2 weeks and 2 months of smoking, but will be gone in a blink in a weekend with friends.

Assume 4 plants growing continuously in dirt. This requires SERIOUS space, electricity, lighting, light isolation, fans, airflow, etc. And don't forget you have to keep a stream of clones from a couple of mother plants. This is DAILY (and sometime hourly) attention. Back breaking (those full dunk waterings are no fun), and fragile (oh fuck, a bit too much HST on that branch, get out the duct tape).

4 plants times 3oz == 12oz. It took about 5 months to grow that. If you want, at that point, you can produce 12oz per month, but you will need a bunch more space and (you know, stuff) for the various plants in the grow stages, and again, lots of real work.

Also, this is all high attention high risk stuff. The heat and smell and noise and vibrations are dead giveaways. They can be dealt with, but at significant cost in equipment and electricity.

The following is based on a known mycelium / pin / grow rate for a typical PC strain. It took me about 6 months of experimentation before I hit this group of strains and process.

Assuming decent mycelium grow rate, BRF knock up to birth is about 2 weeks. Use the SMALLEST jars possible. The goal is not fruiting volume, it is to get the fastest growing fastest maturing mycilium in the smallest amount of time.

Use the largest assortment of spores as possible from the largest number of strains. This is a numbers game. Your particular envirionment and nutrient mix might not mix well with a "default" strain, but it is highly probable you will hit multiple winners this way.

I do NOT go direct to grain, I would much rather go to BRF jar. BRF jars have less of a chance of contams, simply based on size, time to sterilize, and the relationship between starting points vs total volume means they grow faster. On the other hand, I want some isolates (carved from early pinning mushrooms in the jar). Also, I've had multiple spores that simply refused to germinate in rye grain jars, but would happily grown in BRF and then transfer to grain.

Note: I do NOT birth for fruiting, I birth into a glove box and knock up grain jars.

Also, this is the time to choose any particular fast growing patch (and if it is from an early pin in the jar, YAY) from the BRF to put in the grain jar. Use the SMALLEST amount of innoculant possible to isolate the strain.

10 days later, shaking every 3 days, the grain jars are ready.

Note: I have at least 10 times the number of grain jars than I have birthing space at any given moment, and I'll use a lower temperature to slow the growth down of the ones I'm not ready to use, and throw them in the fridge if they finish before I can use them. But at that point the supply of ready to case material is near infinite, and the starting point of BRF inoculations are over.

Any of those grain jars can start a new one (times 20). You just want to limit the g2g and start from a primary generation, rather than make additional generations (limits mutations, hold strength better). So save a couple of the originals that were created from the BRF for future jar creation. Like mother plants.

Bulk layout and wait for tray colonisation is usually about 6-10 days. The ONLY limiting factor here is space. And these trays are not fruiting and need no light, so you can pack them tight.

Next, case and pin. This needs space. Assume 12-16 of these running at any given moment in an enclosed standalone set of shelves, controlled humidity, air flow, and low lighting. This is about a week before 1st pin set.

41 days so far.

Each flush will take from 3-6 days, with a resting period of a week in between each.

If you wanted, you could TRIPLE your production at this point merely by swapping out the resting trays with newly pinning ones. But you better have extra fruiting space if you mis-judge the rates. So I'll drop that to double.

3 flushes x (6+7) = 39

80 days for full run.

And we already had something usable at 50 days. As compared to 5 months growing pot. Trust me when I say this is nothing compared to the patience you learn growing fucking slow sativa.

Assume an average production of 3oz per tray (no matter how many flushes or tray, you get great, you get an occasional poor, just average it out), times 12 active trays times 2 for the tray swapouts factor = 72 oz.

How long would it take you to consume 72 oz of mushrooms? Even compressed, do you have any idea how much volume that is? And since it is for long term use, do you have freezer space or the desire to do chemical extracts?

And that is for the 1st cycle!

At this point, if you continued to grow, it takes almost no space, no light, no electricity, no effort. With almost no unwanted attention since it needs almost no light and generates no heat.

It simply becomes a matter of harvesting trays.

The 1st harvest will be fun, cleaning will be fun, setting up the dryer will be fun.

The next, not so much.

You will quickly realise it is NOT fun to harvest, it is a pain in the ass, and you really have WAY too many mushrooms and you have to stop.

And at that point you will never have to think about it again, unless you are are sharing the knowledge and trying to help people become independent of the dealers. If you want to deal, that's your issue and risk, I just want anybody who wants to be able to have their own, to have them. Without going to the deal making risk.

If somehow you misjudged your needed quantity and wanted to restart, you would have had those original known good strains in jars in a fridge. They keep (oh, if not forever, long enough). You would go straight to grain at that point.

And if those failed, you kept some spore prints? Right? You wouldn't have gone through all this effort without making sure you'd never need to mail order again? Just in case they clamped down on it in the future. Right?

Ok, so that's my rant on patience value of shrooms vs pot, plus some additional suggestions to the world.

Interesting method, interesting point of view. I have found growing pot to be a pain in the ass requiring patience I don't have (and if you look at some of the experiments I have done you might think I have lots - I don't). However, what you seem to fail to mention (I am not sure, I read this with great interest yesterday but can respond only today) is the presence of microbes - this changes the way one thinks about each endeavor. When I make a mistake, srcratching my nose, failing to flame an instrument, coughing, autoclaving too short a time, wife opening a door she was not supposed to when she was not supposed to and on and on and on - I do not know instantly, I do not know in 24 hours and some times I do not know for weeks or even months. (I once saved a PERFECT expression of the genetics I wanted from a mushroom - easy pick, stong stain, medium fruit but litteraly erupting pinsets, from among a group of candidates. Somehow, some way, all of my slants wound up being expressions of another expression all to gether - somewhere I switched cultures and I didn't know until I grew the expression out - the perfect one by that time was long gone). There is a mindset needed for growing mushrooms that is not necessarily so with pot and I see those who perform both hobbies exhibit the difference. With mushrooms one must be unrelentingly absolute, cold even.

You determine early on the mistakes you made and you throw those mistakes out. The Devoted pot grower is willing to wait, to see if that bit of trich or lipstick might just cure itself. Maybe he can get a few fruit before that green patch gets too big (and in the mean time he is elevating the sporeload of his house just by the act of pondering his options). Chucking everything and starting over is the hallmark of a mushroom grower - not so much with the pot grower who will manage to yield SOMETHING even if he fails miserably. Most of the mushroom growers I know consider getting a few scraggly pins on a tiny puck a great sucess (and in the scheme of things it is I suppose), but they would consider getting 3 grams from their Bubba Kush a miserable failure.

I do not find this to be the case growing pot - my principle growing endeavor is tomatoes - the pot is a hobby for friends as I don't like the stuff much, but the tomatoes are the point of my growing life - well that and the micropropagation I am doing. Anyway.

I am interested in your progression. BRF as spawn to grain to bulk substrate? As some know I am a proponent of agar work and living liquid culture. When I was doing such work as you discuss I would go from agar (isolation occured there - rhyzomorphic being predominant selection criteria - I never looked for speed as I believe slower growth indicate a better final expression). From there to enriched solution spun on a mag stirer for three days and then direct to grain. You are assured of a sterile transfer from dish to lc and it was fairly easy in three days to determine if there was contamination in the LC. 5 cc of this solution in a quart jar usually yielded full colonization within 5 to 7 days unless the mycelium was particularly slow (Shaggy mane - my new favorite is curiously fast).

From the jars the substrate of choice was spawned.
 

testtime

Well-Known Member
I have found growing pot to be a pain in the ass requiring patience I don't have
Let me rephrase my initial annoyance factor. I LOVE growing pot. I HATE waiting for it to mature. When I'm playing with seedlings, clones, and pushing veg mode, I've always got something to do.

When I waiting for it to mature, I'm staring, wondering how it will taste, and saying, just 2 more weeks, it'll be done, really. And then 2 weeks later, I'm saying , just 2 more weeks, really, it;ll be done.


the presence of microbes - this changes the way one thinks about each endeavor.
.... snip ....
With mushrooms one must be unrelentingly absolute, cold even.

Yup. That's me. I've got contams beat. Simple as that.

https://www.rollitup.org/hallucinatory-substances/516588-my-first-trip-down-rabbit-2.html#post7309169


You determine early on the mistakes you made and you throw those mistakes out. The Devoted pot grower is willing to wait,
And if not beat, so damn near I simply don't care. Also, it's a numbers game, trays are cheap, and I'm brutal on weak trays. 1st hint of anything and I'll trash it.

A couple of weeks ago I was visiting someone. I observed their green and said GIVE ME A SCISSORS. I snipped a rather large (but immature) bud that showed a bit of spots that sure looked like a fungus growth. I was ready to trash the whole room and sterilise it. Really. And then as we prepared for the effort, we realised the dots were dried nutrients from him watering a bit carelessly.

Yah, cold, that it. Good description.

well that and the micropropagation I am doing. Anyway.
Now THAT interests me. I bought an online kit, lots of chems and dragon jars, but never got around to it. Stopped growing just as the kit arrived. And I had no idea of the correct auxins to use, way too hit or miss for me. I read your journal on it, very cool.

The problem with micropropagation is you will NEVER sterilise it. There will always be something lurking in there, at least with the hobby level equipment I have, so that looks like a lot of failures waiting to happen.


I am interested in your progression. BRF as spawn to grain to bulk substrate?
Spore needle to SMALL BRF. Lots of BRFs. 4-8 jars per needle.
Multiple needles.
As many strains as possible.
Wait for BRF to fill out, but don't bother waiting for extra days for pin trigger.
ALLOW LIGHT.
We want to see if anyone is an early pinner!
IN STERILE ENVIRONMENT:

Clean the jars before putting them in.
Note: I have plastic jars for micropropagation that allow for very clean handling.

For each of the BEST bits in any of the BRF jars, transfer them to 1 or more rye jars.

As far as speed being bad, dunno why. It simply means high metabolism, which will allow it to out compete any possible contams. Never go for slow, it loses via evoloution. It gets eaten.

If possible, I try to get a center of an early pin. Nothing beats getting a full blanket of pins on the 1st flush since it is one big clone.

At that point I'd have about 20-30 queart rye jars to work with. The limiting factor is how much my back aches due to the close exact work required. So I'll spread the entire effort out over several days, producing 20-30 each day.

Do NOT shake when 1st dropping the sample, let it rest 2 days. Then shake the hell out of it. It can usually use a shake in 3 days. And then ready for use in another 3 days. Since I took the fast growing, I usually have a complete jar in 10 days.

I usually use 1 jar per tray. I use coir, verm, gypsum, hmmm (oh, I don't feel like looking it up, and it's been a while). I then case with 50/50 peat/verm/lime.

I case what I have room to fruit, and fridge the jars that I don't want to use yet.
 

canndo

Well-Known Member
Patience - I don't have any patience for BRF frankly, I like to get to the bottom of things early on, I enjoy precision in the early stages. I am as you are, enamored of a solid, concerted, even first flush - it is obvious to me that if I have managed that first flush properly, the second and third (I never go beyond 3, my casing is usually nearing the PH range that invites trich and I would rather lose that 4th and 5th than risk an outbreak. I had an Aspergillis Niger outbreak that I am still recovering from (of course that is mostly on grain and or agar) will be abundant and orderly.


I will be posting the new revelations and lots of pictures of the micropropagation technology soon, I have made some advances in rooting which was causing me some grief the last goround but I have yet to bring the rooted plantlets back around to soil again.
 

joeyjoejoe

Well-Known Member
Speaking of casing. Hey joeyjoejoe. Will you try casing with your next grow?
i think so . i have 6 more jars of cambos doing their thing right now.maybe ill case two of them using a tray with some verm.

anyone care to answer my question about perlite in the fruit chamber? change it after every flush or after every grow? what?when?

my colonization stationcanon camera 001.jpg



my 6 1/2 pint cambos

canon camera 002.jpg
 

testtime

Well-Known Member
Why change it at all?
Yes, it'll get dark and "yucky", but so what?
Clean it by soaking in a 10% bleach solution, rinse well, let it dry out, and reuse it.
That shit lasts forever.
 

joeyjoejoe

Well-Known Member
2nd flush . not nearly as big looking.ohh well . atleast i got something. when this thing is done could i throw it the compost heap or something.. would any thing grow?canon camera 001.jpgcanon camera 002.jpgcanon camera 005.jpgmagus genetics exile
 
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