kovidkoughs kavilcade of kool kreations

kovidkough

kovidkough

Well-Known Member
20210124_144122.jpg
lost a gelato still have one in the mcds cup getting ready for a larger home soon

temps are up, rh is way down , vpd all outta whack

but the cal def is slowed to a halt and uptake has resumed

outside of tent is averaging 40s
excited for spring months
 
PJ Diaz

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
I'm not sure that you're getting accurate humidity readings with the meters being in contact with the grow medium.
 
ҖҗlegilizeitҗҖ

ҖҗlegilizeitҗҖ

Well-Known Member
kovidkough said:
if I run co2 so I don't have to cut intake holes, can I exhaust into the larger space?
Click to expand...
I would reccomend using duct work to exhaust out the side of the house or the roof
Otherwise you can increase the hot, humid air in the attic.
Attics are supposed to be only 10-15°f hotter than the outdoors.
Then the insulation on the ceiling of rooms on the attic prevents conditioned air from transferring up due to thermo dynamics.
This means you will also want to insulate the exterior walls of the room in the attic, and use a vapor barrier. The attic is supposed to be very cold in the winter

The only way to get around venting an attic space, is to spray the underside of the roof sheathing with a minimum of 2" of high density closed-cell expansion foam. That is an adequate substitute. But you will still need additional insulation to make up the required R-Value.
This information can be helpful if you want to drywall directly to the roof joists inside the attic.
 
kovidkough

kovidkough

Well-Known Member
ÒÒlegilizeitÒÒ said:
I would reccomend using duct work to exhaust out the side of the house or the roof
Otherwise you can increase the hot, humid air in the attic.
Attics are supposed to be only 10-15°f hotter than the outdoors.
Then the insulation on the ceiling of rooms on the attic prevents conditioned air from transferring up due to thermo dynamics.
This means you will also want to insulate the exterior walls of the room in the attic, and use a vapor barrier. The attic is supposed to be very cold in the winter

The only way to get around venting an attic space, is to spray the underside of the roof sheathing with a minimum of 2" of high density closed-cell expansion foam. That is an adequate substitute. But you will still need additional insulation to make up the required R-Value.
This information can be helpful if you want to drywall directly to the roof joists inside the attic.
Click to expand...
I have to do all that to run 1200-1800watts?
 
ҖҗlegilizeitҗҖ

ҖҗlegilizeitҗҖ

Well-Known Member
kovidkough said:
I have to do all that to run 1200-1800watts?
Click to expand...
I'm not sure what you mean sorry
To build the room in general, you will just want to be aware the attic is supposed to very cold in the winter. So your room will need to be insulated.
But you need to make sure there is easier still air flow between the roof joists, or if you need to eliminate air flow, and want to drywall directly to the underside of the roof joists, you will want to add a minimum 2" closed cell expansion foam against the underside of the plywood sheathing.
If you mean 1200-1800 wats of heat to exhaust, then yes I would say its a good idea. It wouldn't take much to run a 6" flexible exhaust hose through the attic, and directed out a roof vent, or ducted out a gable end vent maybe.
 
kovidkough

kovidkough

Well-Known Member
ÒÒlegilizeitÒÒ said:
I'm not sure what you mean sorry
To build the room in general, you will just want to be aware the attic is supposed to very cold in the winter. So your room will need to be insulated.
But you need to make sure there is easier still air flow between the roof joists, or if you want to drywall directly to the underside of the roof joists, you will want to add a minimum 2" closed cell expansion foam.
If you mean 1200-1800 wats of heat to exhaust, then yes I would say its a good idea. It wouldn't take much to run a 6" flexible exhaust hose through the attic, and directed out a roof vent, or ducted out a gable end vent maybe.
Click to expand...
yea I think your right il use a 6in ducting to exhaust
thank you for detailed explanation
 
ҖҗlegilizeitҗҖ

ҖҗlegilizeitҗҖ

Well-Known Member
kovidkough said:
the rest of the attic is like 40x20 so I'm only taking up a fraction i figured I wouldn't change the rest of that space with a few 600s
Click to expand...
Yeah your duct work would probably be fine in there then. you would have a much more negative impact on the roof system (in particular directly above your room) if you accidently eliminate the airflow between the roof joists when you build the room.
 
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