Yes the bottom of the coco starter plugs are left in standing water. For how long is uncertain, but they do dry ALOT quicker than RW. All i ever hear about RW is that it never dries out....would someone like to tell me something good about rw?I'm a little confused, are you saying you leave your plugs in standing water? I would not suggest that, I only use rockwool, it should always be wet, but it should never be left in water. I've never had grimey roots. Is that 50 percent H2O2? What else are you putting in your soup?
Yes, I've always used SuperThrive. It's mostly vitamin B, but it's so concentrated that it's cheap and easy to use. For rooting solution I use 20 drops/gallon, about 1ml. Then for veg and the first 3 weeks of flowering I use 2 drops/gallon.
HTH
I used the Rapid Rooters, its posted in my first journal. You are correct, they will dry out faster then the rockwool, I found I had to water them every few days. Properly prepared rockwool cubes are excellent for clones because they hold a lot of moisture and as long as you don't overwater them, give you a good anchoring point, they seem to get bigger stems. VVYes the bottom of the coco starter plugs are left in standing water. For how long is uncertain, but they do dry ALOT quicker than RW. All i ever hear about RW is that it never dries out....would someone like to tell me something good about rw?
Has anyone EVER seen a good thread on rapid rooter cloning? It must royally suck for some reason which is beyond explaination.
no, 35% h2o2...where are you buying 50% and is it worth it for some reason? Thanks a lot pot and anyone else who may reply.
hey thanks a lot VV. I am working on the theory that you leave about 3/16th water level in the tray for the first 4-5 days before roots potentially pop. Then, soak the cubes periodically from that point on to avoid rotting the roots off in standing water. The rapid rooter tray method has worked in the past for me, but varies greatly. Anywhere from 60-95% success. I think it would be best for me to master this technique before trying the possibly superior RW method.
Most nft systems won't support a tall plant, so you must keep them small. When to switch to 12/12 will depend on the amount of light, and the strain. The general rule is to figure that your plant will triple in height after the switch, so if you want an 18 inch plant, switch the lights when they are 6 inches.
You need to have a different reservoir for each stage of flowering. I give them 3 different soup mixes during flowering, and then the flush. You'll also find that the plants at different heights will limit the placement of your lamp over the plants.I have a question..I will be flowering in a 3x3 flood table...I want to harvest 2 or 3 plants every couple weeks or something like that..I am reading where you need to flush with water for a week before harvest and I am wondering what about the plants that are not being harvested...How can I do this or is it really necessary?..Thanks...Peace
pot roast please share your soup recipes for the three stages of flowering you are using. thx, rmYou need to have a different reservoir for each stage of flowering. I give them 3 different soup mixes during flowering, and then the flush. You'll also find that the plants at different heights will limit the placement of your lamp over the plants.
Flushing of the medium is necessary when you use an aggressive chemical load of nutes, and your medium holds a lot of water. I use rockwool slabs, and I need to flush them regularly.
HTH
Yes.I just installed a 800cfm squirrell cage fan in the flowering room and the temps are still around 82-84 degrees..I also have a 16"circulating wall mount fan and have only tested the light but have no flowering plants in there yet...that is with the light on of course..anyway is this temp going to be a problem??
