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KonopCh

KonopCh

Well-Known Member
Has anyone pictures of Ca toxicity? Never seen it.

How much Ca you guys typicaly use? I use 4-5ml of 3% Ca (from all bottles I use), and seems I have deficiency in last 3 weeks of flower. Also with 0.2 EC water. Growing in coco and under COBs, so two things that eat Ca like monster.
 
ANC

ANC

Well-Known Member
You likely have a lockout by that time.
I would not feed calmag past week 4 in flower, then switch to epsom salts.
You should not need much calcium in late flowering.
 
OneHitDone

OneHitDone

Well-Known Member
ANC said:
You likely have a lockout by that time.
I would not feed calmag past week 4 in flower, then switch to epsom salts.
You should not need much calcium in late flowering.
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So what do you think of the Nectar For the God's approach of pumping the plants full of Bone Meal during flush?
They claim higher density in your flowers by providing calcium till the end.
 
ANC

ANC

Well-Known Member
I don't see the point, bone meal takes long to break down.
I watered my one plant outdoors with calmag the night before harvesting her...
I regretted that. You could taste it until it was probably a month cured.
 
Johnnycannaseed1

Johnnycannaseed1

Well-Known Member
OneHitDone said:
Thank you for clarifying that for LED to really "Shine" a purpose built led room is recommended and also that the Light Spectrum emitted IS deficient in certain wavelengths that cause abnormal plant processes :clap:
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But this is where your thinking is all backward, surely you should be looking at it like this;

If the Top LEDs, watt for watt, can currently outperform the top HID's in terms of yield, and dare I say quality, whilst using a "deficient" spectrum, then imagine how much further ahead this tech will shine once the spectrum is tweaked.

Surely that is a much better way of looking at it?
 
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Humple

Humple

Well-Known Member
Johnnycannaseed1 said:
But this is where your thinking is all backward, surely you should be looking at it like this;

If the Top LEDs, watt for watt, can currently outperform the top HID's in terms of yield, and dare I say quality, whilst using a "deficient" spectrum, then imagine how much further ahead this tech will shine once the spectrum is tweaked.

Surely that is a much better way of looking at it?
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Add to that the fact that no empirical evidence has been provided to prove that LEDs have a "deficient" spectrum.
 
Johnnycannaseed1

Johnnycannaseed1

Well-Known Member
@Humple totally agree. I was once an HID user who eventually, after much testing switched over to LEDs, simply because I found LEDs beat HIDs in all areas, including price/ROI, due to the substantial savings you gain in terms of electrical usage and replacement bulbs. For me personally, it is a no-brainer, but it seems others see it differently yet they are unable to offer a credible/valid reason as to why.
 
skoomd

skoomd

Well-Known Member
OneHitDone said:
Herculean Harvest
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I am going to run nectar for the gods in my grow in my 3x3. I find the calcium based nutrient delivery fascinating!

You CAN get calcium deficiency with the line though. If you use bloom khaos without enough herculean you get what they call "nectar calcium deficiency" which is where the leaves sort of shrivel up, not your typical mottled brown patching we're used to.

The solution is dump more herculean onto your plants. People tell me they run up to 100ml/gallon of it before they hit with bloom khaos in flowering.

I got the sample kit, which I paid $35 for and got like 8x 1 liter bottles plus a pack of tea and SLF-100 which is very generous. I ordered an extra 1 gallon bottle of herculean because I expect to use a lot of it.
 
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skoomd

skoomd

Well-Known Member
Humple said:
Add to that the fact that no empirical evidence has been provided to prove that LEDs have a "deficient" spectrum.
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Yeah, what the fuck?

PAR exists for a reason. White LEDs cover the range of 400-700nm (AKA PAR) beautifully. Plants don't "need" anything outside of that range. No deficiency in there whatsoever.
 
OneHitDone

OneHitDone

Well-Known Member
skoomd said:
I am going to run nectar for the gods in my grow in my 3x3. I find the calcium based nutrient delivery fascinating!

You CAN get calcium deficiency with the line though. If you use bloom khaos without enough herculean you get what they call "nectar calcium deficiency" which is where the leaves sort of shrivel up, not your typical mottled brown patching we're used to.

The solution is dump more herculean onto your plants. People tell me they run up to 100ml/gallon of it before they hit with bloom khaos in flowering.

I got the sample kit, which I paid $35 for and got like 8x 1 liter bottles plus a pack of tea and SLF-100 which is very generous. I ordered an extra 1 gallon bottle of herculean because I expect to use a lot of it.
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I've got one of those sample kits sitting here too with maybe 5 gallons of nutrient mixed off of it and never even opened the photo plus or cultured biologix samples.
You can have it for free ;)
 
InTheValley

InTheValley

Well-Known Member
wietefras said:
@InTheValley I think you got that backwards. Calcium uptake is passive. So the higher the transpiration, the higher the uptake of calcium. ie more heat = less chance of calcium def.

Not all nutrients are taken up passively. Which means the ones taken up passively will need to be present in a higher ratio when the heat on the leaves is less.

That's why plants under heat radiating HPS bulbs don't usually show Calcium def and plants under Leds more often do.

Of course it also depends on the nutrients used and it's calcium ratio's. Some nutrients are relatively lower in calcium than others. I switched to a nutrient with higher calcium content (Yara) and I don't need to add anything anymore.
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well, learned more, lol.

Ive come to the conclusion, VPD is of upmost importance. How the heck me plants grew is beyond me. lol..

If your at 83F-your humidity HAS to be above 70%,

I keep around 81F- which my RH should be 75%, but has been at 40%,

I have a flowering FireOG at day53 flower, 75% RH is danger for buds, no? Its seeded too.

edit: common sense here. Fan will keep air movement, and at lights off, lower humidity below 40% to dry out leaf surface to fight mildew and mold. Dont want to sidetrack GLMs thread, but figured, it was in conversation above.
 
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V

vertnugs

Well-Known Member
InTheValley said:
well, learned more, lol.

Ive come to the conclusion, VPD is of upmost importance. How the heck me plants grew is beyond me. lol..

If your at 83F-your humidity HAS to be above 70%,

I keep around 81F- which my RH should be 75%, but has been at 40%,

I have a flowering FireOG at day53 flower, 75% RH is danger for buds, no? Its seeded too.

edit: common sense here. Fan will keep air movement, and at lights off, lower humidity below 40% to dry out leaf surface to fight mildew and mold. Dont want to sidetrack GLMs thread, but figured, it was in conversation above.
Click to expand...

It's a long read......but check out a thread called "Coco trees" on ICmag if you're not aware of it.It's a sticky in the coco forum.Lots of good talk on vpd.
 
InTheValley

InTheValley

Well-Known Member
made adjustments, and instantly praying leafs. I would take it, thats the sweet spot indicator. 81f 61RH im at right now.
 
wietefras

wietefras

Well-Known Member
InTheValley said:
Ive come to the conclusion, VPD is of upmost importance. How the heck me plants grew is beyond me. lol..

If your at 83F-your humidity HAS to be above 70%,
Click to expand...
If you really want to work with VPD you should measure the leaf temperature. Otherwise it's still just a guess.

In the "Arduino experiments" in my signature you can see a "PT camera" (infrared temperature sensor to measure and log leaf temperatures) you can build yourself. Or you can use one of those IR contactless thermometer things (usually yellow pistol shaped devices).
 
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