Experienced Electrician! Here to Answer Any and All Growroom Electrical Questions

buggin69

Active Member
the cap from the micro will eventually burn up the motor.

I know I'm the one asking the questions here... and if you can explain it to me I'll be fine with it... but I'd have to disagree with that specific answer at this point in time. With my understanding of capacitors they only store energy until it is needed... at which point it is released. I would more likely expect to burn up the capacitor in this case... but it's very much over sized... And I know that a 250V capacitor used on a 100V system only holds 100V... 250V is merely the maximum it can handle. Some also have a minimum... which this one might. I'm still not saying it's 100% solid.

Anyway, I'm not trying to be an ass. I really will listen to your explanation... that just isn't my understanding of how a capacitor works.

Thanks though
 

justlearning73

Well-Known Member
Yes, just use a cord sufficient enough to handle all 4 lights. When you wire them in a normal environment you are just attaching them to a longer wire. It's no different. Just use wire caps and a large enough gauge wire. You didn't say how many watts but I imagine 14 or even 16 would be fine
Sorry it is the 54w each for 4 lights. The package says you can hook upto 8 lights on one strand.. So just to be clear on my end, I can use the same size or larger for the wire that is already used in the jumper.
 

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
the 1.0 uf delivers less wattage at a higher rated voltage (2500v) than the 10uf... the 1 microfarad charge maybe enough to start the motor, but eventually, it will wear down on the thermistor (starting circuit) of your motor.... alot of single phase motors the starting circuit is energized during normal operation of the motor to provide additional torque. if the cap on the starting circuit is only 1uf and the motor requires a 10uf cap, then the motor is 'dragging', or running at undervoltage conditions. this will greatly shorten the life of the motor.....
make more sense?
the 1uf cap is good for a high voltage but lower power charge than the 10uf............
 

buggin69

Active Member
the 1.0 uf delivers less wattage at a higher rated voltage (2500v) than the 10uf... the 1 microfarad charge maybe enough to start the motor, but eventually, it will wear down on the thermistor (starting circuit) of your motor.... alot of single phase motors the starting circuit is energized during normal operation of the motor to provide additional torque. if the cap on the starting circuit is only 1uf and the motor requires a 10uf cap, then the motor is 'dragging', or running at undervoltage conditions. this will greatly shorten the life of the motor.....
make more sense?
the 1uf cap is good for a high voltage but lower power charge than the 10uf............


yes... thank you... now i understand fully

see... i'm not such a bad guy... lol... sorry most people don't like when i disagree... i have a hard time getting information

do you think this will work... i just found it online.... i'm going to go back and look for the right one where the busted microwaves are
http://www.drillspot.com/products/484480/dayton_2mdv7_motor_run_capacitor
 

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member

buggin69

Active Member
good... cause the others i found were a lot more expensive... wasn't going to waste the money if i can't find one
 

1badmasonman

Well-Known Member
Hello all im in the middle of a major remod on my grow room. Ive got some tech questions for the wize.

heres my room under const.





See the electrical fuse panels on the left. They are the old bus type fuses. There is the 2 main pull out lugs with 20 & 30 amp bullet fuses. Then theres the orange & blue screw in bus fuses. This is an old house. Last year i switched from a gas stove to electric and had a sparky wire it up to code. This is way before i built a grow room in the basement encompassing the fuse panels. Needless to say im not hiring a sparky at this point. But i am quite familiar with wiring in 220 pigtails into modern breaker boxes to run my brick saws. So now beside the main old bus box i have a 50 amp 220 breaker sub box. My current plan is to utilize the 240v function of my 2 600w ballast. I know these pics dont give a clear picture of what im working with. I can and will post a few clear pics in the morning of the entire power panel.

Just a quick quiz ? can i run an outlet from the same 220v 50 amp breaker sub panel which runs my stove, which is smack in the grow room , to run both of my 600 watt ballast's safely. pics in the morn will check back. Thanks for any advice.



Theres a better pic of my power supply.









This is my clone veg mother room which is basically framed to fit the floro hood but is inside the main room that is 8 by 13. This is where the power supply is.


Before the mylar cab on the right is the clone veg room which is where the power source is.



Standing between the veg cab and entrance viewing the future flower room.



I f you can gather the layout i have hear so far i could use som exp advice on wiring up my 2 ballast to that 50 amp 220 breaker box. peace 1BBM
 

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
well i would be hesitant about running the lights and cooking a thanksgiving dinner... lol youll find out when the fuse blows
 

Moochbuds

Active Member
say i was to give you a full layout pics and all of my Fuse box, could you tell me how to change the main out with the same 100 amp new one.

Also would you be able to tell me how to put a new breaker in, i have one spot left and i am planning on building a new room.

I want to run its own breaker for the setup i am gonna be using. I am in construction now, installer.

I have been around and seen inside guts of a fuse box and no worries, just wanna be SAFE and do it the right way.

I bought two books, simple wiring. And the Do it Yourself home improvements. But shoot, a pro offering help ill take it. So what do ya think?
 

patlpp

New Member
I'm living in a 5000 square foot home. There is always lights in a couple rooms running. This is my first grow so I'm trying to be as cautious as possible! Is 6 42watt cfls going to tip anything off to the electric company?? How much is this going to affect my electricity bill by a 18/6 for four weeks and a 12/12 for nine weeks? Let me know thanks!
42 x 6 = 252 watts. .252 *18*30 days = 136 kwh veg
.252 * 12* 75 = 227 kwh flower
227 + 252 = ~480 kwh .12c kwh *480 = $57 over 3 month span = $19 month.

Yes, you will have helicopters flying overhead and Serpico himself at your
door if you try this!!

Just kidding, it won't draw attention from the electric company but maybe your parents?:shock:
 

1badmasonman

Well-Known Member
well i would be hesitant about running the lights and cooking a thanksgiving dinner... lol youll find out when the fuse blows
Cool i think i pretty well understant my power dist. now.

Just one more queston can i wire my lights into one outlet with a timer? Not worried about fuses got plenty to burn.
Just dont wanna burn up 50 trying to get i t right. you are truly a gem. Iam5stoned. 1BMM
 

1badmasonman

Well-Known Member
1. When running a ballast on 220 can you still use the 110 plugs or must they be upgraded.

2. When will a breaker trip? Example if i have a 50 amp 220 breaker will it trip because of over amping. is that how it works?

3. Can you still use regular 110 timers or do they need t be 220 specific.

4. Can i wire both of my ballast into one power source. Example: Run a pig tail out of a 220 breaker. Then wire both ballast power cords together and connect power via a 220 length of cord or wiring.
I know this sounds like a death trap but its perfectly logical. And alot less cords to deal with.

Any help here would be appreciated.
 

one11

Active Member
Question: Im making a growroom outdoors about 250ft away from nearest powersource. What's the easiest and cheapest way to acquire that power? Buying 10/3 gauge wire is expensive. Dollar fifty a foot. So any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 

BigBudBalls

Well-Known Member
Rather scarey. What are you trying to do? Swap wires in the panel to give a 110 outlet 220? IF so Pal-lease don't do that. Having a 110 outlet with 220 on it will work (more on that later) but will allow you to pug in a 110 device into a 220 outlet. (lets the smoke out of stuff fast. And I still cant find those smoke reinstallation kits)

Just swapping the wires in the main panel *might* work, but since things can bit screwy. The neutrals (which is what you would wind up hooking the second leg to, can wind up being a dead short. Remember, a breaker runs more then just one single outlet.)

(working and correct are not always the same thing)

If you want 220, run a *new* line for it.



1. When running a ballast on 220 can you still use the 110 plugs or must they be upgraded.

2. When will a breaker trip? Example if i have a 50 amp 220 breaker will it trip because of over amping. is that how it works?

3. Can you still use regular 110 timers or do they need t be 220 specific.

4. Can i wire both of my ballast into one power source. Example: Run a pig tail out of a 220 breaker. Then wire both ballast power cords together and connect power via a 220 length of cord or wiring.
I know this sounds like a death trap but its perfectly logical. And alot less cords to deal with.

Any help here would be appreciated.
 

BigBudBalls

Well-Known Member
Question: Im making a growroom outdoors about 250ft away from nearest powersource. What's the easiest and cheapest way to acquire that power? Buying 10/3 gauge wire is expensive. Dollar fifty a foot. So any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Still the cheapest your gonna get.

Windmills (masts cost as much if not more then the turbine themselves), solar, micro-hydro, generators are all gonna be a LOT more.

Run the wire. Gotta pay to play.
 

mrmadcow

Well-Known Member
Question: Im making a growroom outdoors about 250ft away from nearest powersource. What's the easiest and cheapest way to acquire that power? Buying 10/3 gauge wire is expensive. Dollar fifty a foot. So any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
if using romex,you need 10/2 (it has 2 wires plus a ground wire) if you use extension cord wire ,you need 10/3. standard 10/2 romex will cost about $100 for a 250 roll. romex rated for direct burial will be almost double. that being said,standard romex will last for several years if buried- I buried a 12 foot piece to my gazebo about 8 yrs ago w/out problems...YET!
another option is to buy PVC pipe (under $2 for a 10 foot stick) & run the wire in that.last time I bought 10 gauge Thhn wire, a 500 foot roll was about $75.-Thhn is a single conductor that needs to be run in pipe so you would need 750 feet. $80 should cover the cost for 1/2 pvc pipe,clamps &boxes needed.romex or extension cord wire should not be run in pipe.
cheapest option would be to buy a 250 roll of 12/2 romex & use the extension cord you already have & double them up- tie both blacks together,both whites,& both grounds.this is not to code for many reasons but would be reasonable safe for several yrs & give you the power you need.I'm guessing if found, electric code violations are the least of your problems.
to review
best & to code would be PVC and Thhn wire-this would be to code & allow another circuit to be added later- a little over $200
next would be direct burial 10/2 Romex- also to code & under $200.
breaking code but safe for short term(4-5 yrs) would be 10/2 romex not rated for burial.-about $100
cheapest/dirtiest but safe for short term,12/2 romex buried w/ the 12/3 cord you already have & joined at both ends
 
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