DIY with Quantum Boards

2com said:

You can add two 288s to a 240h-c2100 that's already driving two 288s just by wiring the two additional 288s in series with each other, and then wiring those two in parallel with the first/original two?

Is that what you're saying?
(Edit: also, I was saying three boards in a row is great, agreeing with daveybc. you're talking about four, right? just saying ).

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You're just splitting the current between2 boards in a parallel setup then another pair ran like you have now just the same in series. That's how you can use CC s. And you can still use 3. You can have two outer ones in parallel and the middle one on its own. The outer will be half the current of the middle but, still would work.

2com said:

You can add two 288s to a 240h-c2100 that's already driving two 288s just by wiring the two additional 288s in series with each other, and then wiring those two in parallel with the first/original two?

Is that what you're saying?
(Edit: also, I was saying three boards in a row is great, agreeing with daveybc. you're talking about four, right? just saying ).

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Yes that's what I'm saying. 2 sets of 2 in series, wired in parallel. So 2 leads from both pos and negs of the driver to start and finish the series runs of the 2 sets of 2 boards.

Airwalker16 said:

You're just splitting the current between2 boards in a parallel setup then another pair ran like you have now just the same in series. That's how you can use CC s. And you can still use 3. You can have two outer ones in parallel and the middle one on its own. The outer will be half the current of the middle but, still would work.

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I would not run 3 boards. The 2 branches of the parallel circuit will get the same voltage.

For example:
HLG-240H-c2100B
Voltage Max is 109V
Usually run 3- 36V CREE CXB3590's per driver.

Instead,
You have 2,rows of 3 in series, but the positives of both strings along with the negatives, get brough to the pos and neg of the driver and wago'd together with a 3wire model.
Now you're running 6 COBs at 37W each rather than 3 at 74W each.

Airwalker16 said:

You're just splitting the current between2 boards in a parallel setup then another pair ran like you have now just the same in series. That's how you can use CC s. And you can still use 3. You can have two outer ones in parallel and the middle one on its own. The outer will be half the current of the middle but, still would work.

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Maybe I misunderstood. From the bolded text, it sounded like you were trying to hook up two boards in series on one branch of the parallel circuit and only one board on the other branch. That's what I was referring to when I said I would not do that.

Airwalker16 said:

You're just splitting the current between2 boards in a parallel setup then another pair ran like you have now just the same in series. That's how you can use CC s. And you can still use 3. You can have two outer ones in parallel and the middle one on its own. The outer will be half the current of the middle but, still would work.

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Yea, this doesn't sound like something I'd want to do.

Airwalker16 said:

Yes that's what I'm saying. 2 sets of 2 in series, wired in parallel. So 2 leads from both pos and negs of the driver to start and finish the series runs of the 2 sets of 2 boards.

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Thanks, just wanted to clarify your wording That's all.

TWest65 said:

Yes, but the trade-off is, each 1/2 of the parallel ckt gets 1/2 the current. So only 1050ma through each of the 4 boards, instead of 2100ma through 2 boards

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Of course, right? You're not gonna get any more power out of the same driver by adding boards.

I was more getting at the face that you can literally just add boards of the same FV to a CC driver with absolute ease. That's all. But the other main reason why two board setups (as the kits are) was/is because of the up front cost of the extra board anyway. Haha. I've learned a lot since then and still feel like a noob.

Thank you guys.

Youall need a laugh......

Hey guys,

New member here;
Looking at my options to build my own light to cover a 5x5 tent and put 1K HPS to shame. Doing the hid to led switch and don't want to be dissapointed.

For the space I thought of running 6-8x QB96 ELITE V2's simply attached to aluminum angle through the heatsink. Would be running 3-4x HLG 320h drivers, unsure what the best I know it must be a 54a.

Also considered going 4x QB96 with 2 320h drivers and another to power 4x chiled growmau5 v3 red pucks at ~110w each on top of the 4 QB96's

Another option being running 4x QB96 as well as either 4-6 QB288 R spec's with heatsinks and either 2x 240w driver if i'm going with 2 boards per 240w driver or go 3 QB288'S on a 320w driver x 2.

What do you guys think?
Looking for some input on maybe how I should go about layout for any of these options in a 5x5 configuration as well as what would be my best option for bang for buck with either a combo of QB96's and 288's or growmau5 pucks and QB96's or maybe just straight QB96's and run some supplemental red lighting?

Thanks in advance!

daveybc said:

301H and 301B are the same. I would believe the H means "Horticulture". So many rip offs out there these days that you need to reference HLG quantum boards. Why not reference an "H" and call it a V3... One may think the vendor actually has better gear lmao... If something it better in the Samsung world for horticulture, HLG would be the first to know.

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There is something better in the Samsung world for horticulture. It's called the LM301H and you can buy it at digikey right now. It may be the same diode but it's not the same binning. They are making much higher efficacy claims than they were with the top bin LM301B's.

I'm building a new grow for non canna plants. I based it off my experience with the 288s. I figured i could lower the wattage with some crossover lighting, higher efficiency, morw points of light, 4000k and the fact it will be a "veg" only. I got 4 v2 qb132's on a hlg 185 1400. This is about 2.6 umol/j, 33,000 lumens i believe and total cost about 200$. Slightly higher efficiency than the rspec and bit more watts than the 135w kit. Mounted them to a wooden frame for now. This is a 2x4 tent.

Hey, my friend designed a 120 & 140mm fan shroud for a Slate 2-5 heatsink if any of you have a 3D printer. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4063022. I Recommend printing this with PETG

Frank Nitty said:

View attachment 4431888I love this shit!!!

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Look at them now!!! 18 days later!!!

Hi all... I have some new qb96 elite v2 boards and some old heat sinks where the holes are not in the right place. Can you just use the thermal pads or do you have to used the screws?

KKP midflower .... getting a top dress today and a shot of kelp . Deep earth funk ...
Still under the pure par Agromax and Quantums....



The Deputy and 2 auto ( stomper x purp gorillas ) - one LST ( last one ) ... one not . Deputy was topped once and will be again down the road. Running on a tiered platform for now. All under the 4 304 v1 boards ( 3500k ) . Lower middle is another Deputy . With some solo GSG going on .



GOJIBERRY - 1 gallon bag supported in larger container for LST. One lower bud got snapped at bottom . Been on a gallon grow bag kick lately to test different soil blends ( non cooking ) and what kind of grow I would get . This “ auto “ had to be flipped but is really packing on some weight after a light defol .
She has been a hungry one and needs another top dress . Temps have been good without any help from heaters during this chilly time California. The solos are running EB Stone and General Organics Ancient Forest Humus blend. Which I will run in a larger container
this coming weekend.

Anyone see the 550 B spec board on HLG??
Where do I buy just a board?? I’d love to get a single board to swap into my 135 R spec kit!

I figure the driver from it would work on either?

thanks y’all!

Nizza said:

Anyone see the 550 B spec board on HLG??
Where do I buy just a board?? I’d love to get a single board to swap into my 135 R spec kit!

I figure the driver from it would work on either?

thanks y’all!

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I asked about single boards. They said maybe in the future. Whatever that's worth

oill said:

Hi all... I have some new qb96 elite v2 boards and some old heat sinks where the holes are not in the right place. Can you just use the thermal pads or do you have to used the screws?

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You have to use screws. I think thermal pads and thermal adhesive are two different things, and I wouldn't use adhesive just for the fact that that's not what they're shipped with.
What kinda heatsinks do you have where the holes don't line up with the boards?

oill said:

Hi all... I have some new qb96 elite v2 boards and some old heat sinks where the holes are not in the right place. Can you just use the thermal pads or do you have to used the screws?

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Last I knew is if your running under 50 watts per board you do not need heatsinks that was for the 288's and 304 boards
for the 96's i don't think you need heatsinks

420Barista said:

Last I knew is if your running under 50 watts per board you do not need heatsinks that was for the 288's and 304 boards
for the 96's i don't think you need heatsinks

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For qb96, from HLG website "Heatsink and Thermal Pad required to run board over 500mA (25 watts)".

oill said:

Hi all... I have some new qb96 elite v2 boards and some old heat sinks where the holes are not in the right place. Can you just use the thermal pads or do you have to used the screws?

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Drill new holes. The screws will tap themselves when you put them in.