DIY with Quantum Boards

Latest harvest with the V2 3000k 135w kit. Ive got about 8 on the v2s so far, working on my second with the rspec. Estimate about 160g. Il cut the tops a bit early because theyre so dense but theyre still immature so they dont rot and let the middle mature little more. A few tops burned a little, makes them massive buds. Im pretty convinced that poor ventilation and summer heat led to the burns though, almost got a little foxtailing. 4 finger widths is about the maximum you want to grow up to. This strain is a hybrid with a bunch of random crosses. This a like a 3rd generation clone, which i have about grown about 10 plants but for some reason this one didnt come out with the typical diesel, skunk, vanilla. This plant 110% smells like a tangerine. Ive never grown one like it but given its history i have to attribute it to the heat, ive also stopped feeding epsom and started doing heavy calmag, so that could be it. i have heard epsom, sulfur has a lot of influence on smells but i never imagined it would make it smell better.

Having those 3 drivers will have slightly less load/amps as well. Check out the datasheets for the drivers. The series "constant current" drivers are more efficient. If you already have a 240h c2100a or a 240h c2100b it will be less expensive to add those 2 drivers. If you have a vision on dimming with pot, remotely, an app or whatever a "b" driver is preferable. "b" drivers have dimming leads on the driver. "a" drivers have in a built in pot ( dimmer ). You may already know this. I use 240h c2100a for every 2 boards and 1 100h 54a for the center. These are all V1 3000K except the 2 on either side of the center are V1 2700K. THe qb96 elites are powered by 185h 54a per light dimmed. I kinda wish I had "b" drivers since these are so many dimmer options these days. The plus is the " a" drivers are a little over driven, but I find the extra juice not necessary. Choosing drivers is not as easy as it sounds..



QUOTE="HielanVibes, post: 15046491, member: 1020763"]Redundancy is def a perk; better safe than sorry! So i get it straight, you run two 240s and a 120. I'll have to run the costing on drivers compared to just one 600.

Ill def play with that idea, thanks man. I wonder what the wiring would look like running 4 of these fixtures in a 10x12 room. I guess just a simple 4 plug box for each fixtures power source.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the pic davey! Yea i got a bag full of potentiometers. Currently using a 240 also for 2 qb301s, with a potentiometer. The 2.1a for these boards is plenty with passive cooling, i agree. I appreciate your insight and ability to maintain the series layout, definitely got my imagineering going now!! And ill def. run the numbers for loads with your style layout compared to a single 600. Again, much appreciate man.

You cant see the pot, its on the inside of the angled aluminum extrusion. Nothing compared to Davey's 5x5 layout above. Yeet!!

Cheers Trichomies!

Here's the layout plan so far for Hielan Vibes project; above was Jams and Jelly. Would rate HV's canopy area's at 37.5 w per sq.ft. (8 fixtures * 600) / 128 sq.ft. Actual fixture layouts are not confirmed yet as an even spread is paramount!
Rock on DIY'ers! Screw big Corporations! To the little GUY!

daveybc said:

Having those 3 drivers will have slightly less load/amps as well. Check out the datasheets for the drivers. The series "constant current" drivers are more efficient. If you already have a 240h c2100a or a 240h c2100b it will be less expensive to add those 2 drivers. If you have a vision on dimming with pot, remotely, an app or whatever a "b" driver is preferable. "b" drivers have dimming leads on the driver. "a" drivers have in a built in pot ( dimmer ). You may already know this. I use 240h c2100a for every 2 boards and 1 100h 54a for the center. These are all V1 3000K except the 2 on either side of the center are V1 2700K. THe qb96 elites are powered by 185h 54a per light dimmed. I kinda wish I had "b" drivers since these are so many dimmer options these days. The plus is the " a" drivers are a little over driven, but I find the extra juice not necessary. Choosing drivers is not as easy as it sounds..

View attachment 4383246

QUOTE="HielanVibes, post: 15046491, member: 1020763"]Redundancy is def a perk; better safe than sorry! So i get it straight, you run two 240s and a 120. I'll have to run the costing on drivers compared to just one 600.

Ill def play with that idea, thanks man. I wonder what the wiring would look like running 4 of these fixtures in a 10x12 room. I guess just a simple 4 plug box for each fixtures power source.

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[/QUOTE]


Hey daveybc,

I was wondering if you have a build thread on your "fixtures" or "rails" for your QB96s setup? If so could you link it please? I'll have a search in the meantime.

I've had the angle aluminum sitting waiting for a long time. I've had the "numbers" on how long to make them and stuff too. But now that I go to do something with them, I kinda wanna see what others have done, because being a "perfectionist" I just keep going over the same ideas without choosing one. Haha.

How did you choose, and what is the spacing between the heatsinks/QBs? Same question for the length of the rails?
I've made QB288 fixtures before so I have a clue what I'm doing. They are rectangular frames, not just open ended rails though. Frames would be nice, to be able to play with spacing.

Thanks for any info or suggestions.

I looked at the fixture on the hlg website. There is a test report link that gives the specs and dimensions. I copied those dimensions to make this less expensive alternative. There are many driver choices I use the 185h 54a per board. So many choices on that front. I run the boards about 160-165 watts at the wall each board, so they are dialed down. Drivers mounted remotely. Remember the aluminum frame should be grounded and scratch the anodized aluminum to ensure good contact for grounding purpose. Also perhaps 1/2 " angle aluminum would be better. Notice I notched out the 3/4" so I could screw the heatsinks onto frame. This build is simple solid and easy. Perhaps not the nicest. having smaller fixtures is more manageable for me as I can take them down to blow off with air and remove them when bleach cleaning.


Hey daveybc,

I was wondering if you have a build thread on your "fixtures" or "rails" for your QB96s setup? If so could you link it please? I'll have a search in the meantime.

I've had the angle aluminum sitting waiting for a long time. I've had the "numbers" on how long to make them and stuff too. But now that I go to do something with them, I kinda wanna see what others have done, because being a "perfectionist" I just keep going over the same ideas without choosing one. Haha.

How did you choose, and what is the spacing between the heatsinks/QBs? Same question for the length of the rails?
I've made QB288 fixtures before so I have a clue what I'm doing. They are rectangular frames, not just open ended rails though. Frames would be nice, to be able to play with spacing.

Thanks for any info or suggestions.[/QUOTE]

HielanVibes said:

Here's the layout plan so far for Hielan Vibes project; above was Jams and Jelly. Would rate HV's canopy area's at 37.5 w per sq.ft. (8 fixtures * 600) / 128 sq.ft. Actual fixture layouts are not confirmed yet as an even spread is paramount!
Rock on DIY'ers! Screw big Corporations! To the little GUY!
View attachment 4383309

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I use 7 QB 288 V1 ( LM561B ) in total and 4 QB96elite. It covers a 4x8 tent well. I used to have just 7 QB 288 but added 4 of the elites to complete the footprint. Probably would have got Rspecs if they were available then. On the plus I don,t bump my head any longer on that longer 2 board fixture. Notice you can adjust the spacing. I notched the 3/4" angle aluminum on the QB fixture since the slate 6 cooling fins run across ( increased airflow on heatsink ). I shortened the fixture when I moved them to the ends of the tent ( fan blade clearance ).

There are perks having 1 driver as easier to connect pot, only uses 1 plug etc. Here is a before pic when when I had only 7 qb288 ( and 2 qb96 4000k on the ends, now used for veg ). It gives you an Idea though. I am a fan on single heatsinks ( more customizable for spacing ). The 2nd pic is some pink kush dankness after I added 4 qb96elites.

I do believe adding the reds from the 96Elites sped up flower time several days. You may want to look at Rspecs or some qb11/qb18 reds.

I actually read this entire thread a while back before joining ( it was a fair bit shorter though, 693 pages would be painful ). Just have to refine scanning skills and ignore that idiot Yodaweed at the beginning.. Speaking of, I wonder if he still rocks his old gear.. an anti LED freaking joker he was..

PS that center qb288 was looked after by HLG upon purchase. The told me to keep it so I did and got a new board.

daveybc said:

I looked at the fixture on the hlg website. There is a test report link that gives the specs and dimensions. I copied those dimensions to make this less expensive alternative.
That's a good idea man. Nice, haha. I just tried to be efficient with material (angle alum.) and figured I can get three 32" pieces from an 8' length (it worked for the 288 builds).

There are many driver choices I use the 185h 54a per board. So many choices on that front. I run the boards about 160-165 watts at the wall each board, so they are dialed down. Drivers mounted remotely.
I know all about it, haha. So many options for drivers and configurations that it makes the decision harder. I considered 185h's each but cost led me to get 320h's per pair.

Remember the aluminum frame should be grounded and scratch the anodized aluminum to ensure good contact for grounding purpose.
I probably won't be grounding, as per HLG's original answers/thoughts on that topic. But I usually run a three wire from driver to fixture in case I wanted to. Though I'd probably run a separate wire along with the +/- cable now anyway/instead. Yes, the anodization (that's not a word, is it.), I know about this. But thank you for the safety tip, someone won't.

Also perhaps 1/2 " angle aluminum would be better. Notice I notched out the 3/4" so I could screw the heatsinks onto frame. This build is simple solid and easy. Perhaps not the nicest. having smaller fixtures is more manageable for me as I can take them down to blow off with air and remove them when bleach cleaning.
I already have the angle alum. I noticed that you had to notch yours. My 3/4" angle doesn't get in the way, dimensions must be slightly different than yours. Also, did you notice that the "rail" of the angle that the heatsink/QB rest on actually come too far in from the edge of the heatsink and will/would cover a part of the surface of the heatsink where the QB96 would be screwed onto?
I noticed this on a 288 build and I had to use spacers to keep the heatsink(s) off of the actual "edge" (where the right angle of the angle alum. is) so that the "lip" or "rail" wouldn't cover a QB mounting screw hole.

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Replies above.

I think I've got a plan for these fixtures now.
Thanks for taking the time to share some insight, and some tips.
Much appreciated.

Hey no problem. I learnt this from all the previous users. Some good youtube stuff from Growmou5, LED Gardener ( smart dude ), HLG and some others. It seemed to me HLG was more on the game than other DIY solutions. Good luck and post your build for others to see. Some of these builds are pretty bad ass.

2com said:

Replies above.

I think I've got a plan for these fixtures now.
Thanks for taking the time to share some insight, and some tips.
Much appreciated.

Click to expand...

daveybc said:

Hey no problem. I learnt this from all the previous users. Some good youtube stuff from Growmou5, LED Gardener ( smart dude ), HLG and some others. It seemed to me HLG was more on the game than other DIY solutions. Good luck and post your build for others to see. Some of these builds are pretty bad ass.

Click to expand...

I know (of) them all, and probably subscribed to them all; learned a lot from them. I read this entire thread (back when it was a little shorter) too.
I'll try and post some build pics if I can. I'll be in a rush though probably. Haha.
Thanks again.

Hey hey hey!

So what is the lifespan on those monos these days?

HitemwiththeHine said:

Hey hey hey!
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That's the v1.1

I was going to make a joke about Stephen being ordered by the President to cut ties with Samsung but nevermind.

The president has a beef with South Korean's as well.. I thought the Dane's were the last.

HitemwiththeHine said:

I was going to make a joke about Stephen being ordered by the President to cut ties with Samsung but nevermind.

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We have all come a long way last few years. I wonder whats in store in the future, what will people be growing with in 100 years. White hazmat suits with UV goggles when entering their grows.

2com said:

I know (of) them all, and probably subscribed to them all; learned a lot from them. I read this entire thread (back when it was a little shorter) too.
I'll try and post some build pics if I can. I'll be in a rush though probably. Haha.
Thanks again.

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daveybc said:

The president has a beef with South Korean's as well.. I thought the Dane's were the last.

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If only she told him: "ill trade you Greenland for Ivanka" just to see what would happen...

Stephenj37826 said:

UVA's are coming in about a month. Yeah we will be restocking on Amazon soon.

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Are you still doing a UVB solution?

My rspecs have come out more vine like and skinnier than my regular v2's. My v2 tent has slightly warmer air coming in from the rspec tent, other than that no difference and same clones. The v2s have given me a lot of dense buds, but the 2 i did with the rspec have been like like falling over and skinny long buds. Its anecdotal so far but is there any possible reason for this? More green in the v2 penetrating canopy to provide better stability? Faster growth with rspec?

Jqwerty1 said:

My rspecs have come out more vine like and skinnier than my regular v2's. My v2 tent has slightly warmer air coming in from the rspec tent, other than that no difference and same clones. The v2s have given me a lot of dense buds, but the 2 i did with the rspec have been like like falling over and skinny long buds. Its anecdotal so far but is there any possible reason for this? More green in the v2 penetrating canopy to provide better stability? Faster growth with rspec?

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Have you noticed any difference in leaf colour overall?
Did you veg and bloom under both lights or have separate lighting for veg?