Area 51 Why wait, seems you can buy cree cobs lights now
- Thread starter Tim Fox
- Start date
how do you decide when it is inappropriate name calling versus something appropriate ?
if profanity is the issue then put in a profanity filter.
BigYellowCob
Well-Known Member
RIU should split the LED forum into 2 sections - make one a DIY section where people would likely be pretty chill, learning how to build a light and researching new components. The other section would be a Commercial light section with no rules - it would turn into a giant poop throwing contest in about 3 minutes, but it would be entertaining as hell. Enter at your own risk, and wear a helmet.
BM9AGS
Well-Known Member
Or just a separate place for the known crap LEDs like SK and Mars and platinum types. So they can all share their one pound per watt Grows.
Plc and gg and those can chill in the legit section.
That way when we're board we can either go to the crap led or politics thread to read the dumbest shit and have arguments.
And also, we all agree that with in the legit
Led section insults are all terms of endearment so they don't have to delete threads or moderate as much.
medicinehuman
Well-Known Member
I'll have to get stoned so that I can get a good laugh at that poop mud slinging section. I like that idea.
thx.1138
Active Member
I didn't realize what I had gotten into here, but the Cpt. put everything succinctly above.
so now I get it
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Stephenj37826
Well-Known Member
Thank you for the treat!
How much might one of those bad toys go for? Assembly time can't be too high, which is something every manufacturer desires
Difference being you don't see me in the regular lighting section continuously bashing hid do you? They come in this section to piss people off end of story. If they actually took a scientific approach of course I would listen. As usual they disregard any part of the overall equation that doesn't make a good case for their beloved hps. So no I'm not being a troll lol. I speak truth and it can be backed up by science.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Okay, so I'll engage you in some serious LED discussion; what do you think the actual observed difference would be in a head to head COB LED vs HID contest, if wattage were kept constant?
Stephenj37826
Well-Known Member
Well that is still a hard question to answer. Let's say in the case of my light I personally believe you would see 1.75-2x the yield per watt vs standard hps. So basically if you used 10000 watts of air cooled hps to illuminate x square feet you could get the same results with 5000-6000 watts of top bin cxb3590 @ 1.4a. Where we gain overall system efficiency is higher luminary efficiency and higher par photons per watt. We also gain a lot from an environmental standpoint as well. 6000 watts of cob air cooled cxb3590 would introduce 15%-20% of the heat into the grow area vs 10000 watts of standard air cooled hps. Even better would be if you where doing extractions the higher overall terpene content of the led driven buds would also yield more potential profit for the grower. Like I said in a new build out cob led is the best choice if the grower is planning on staying in business for more than a year. On top of all that there are incentive programs in some states which would make it a no brainer really.
Stephenj37826
Well-Known Member
Actually you are incorrect on that one. In my design the heatsinks are in an air cooled housing. So the heat is removed through duct work. So
In my lights case 6000 actual watts is really only 3245 watts of light. The 2755 watts of heat that come from the heat sinks and drivers are never introduced into the grow environment. Hence why my light is extra special lmao.
Stephenj37826
Well-Known Member
And in the air cooled hps case you have 10000 watts in a 75% or less efficient luminary. Assuming 38.5% efficient light source at 75% luminary efficiency your getting close to 2900 watts of actual light. You're getting 7100 watts of heat. Now the part I'm unsure of is how much of that 7100 number is actually carried away through air cooling. As we know the IR coming from the light source even when air cooled enters the grow area. So figuring hid air cooling efficiency is tough for me.
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Stephenj37826
Well-Known Member
So yes my above numbers are incorrect. Its closer to a 60% reduction in heat introduced into the grow environment vs air cooled hps
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Need to get some semantics straight; LED or not, watts expended equals heat that needs to be removed. Your air cooled light is a neat trick- bravo!- but it has an effective heat management strategy, the heat didn't just disappear.
The energy that's turned into photons hits something... and turns back into heat. If it hits a leaf, the plant is likely to transpire water to shed that heat- but it's still there, albeit now in a different form, for your environmental control system to deal with.
The idea that watts magically disappear when running LED is incorrect and it's going to get people in trouble as they scale their grows up beyond tent or bedroom size.
To put it another way; the Kill-A-Watt measures actual watts drawn from the outlet. It is also measuring the actual amount of heat that has to be shed, no matter what the distribution between heat and photons might be. I don't care if we're talking about CFL, HPS, COB LED- or my toaster.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
I'd like to know more about this certification process.COB wars.............may the "white" be with you......................... Race to ul/etl certs. is ON
Stephenj37826
Well-Known Member
Exactly my point the heat figure I quoted of 3245 watts of heat into the grow area is the actual par watts. Sure the heat still had to be removed by a duct fan my point being too me is it still only takes a couple hundred watts of inline fan power to remove the excess heat from sinks and drivers vs having to move it out with AC. You wont remove 2700+ watts of heat any more efficiently than that. Like I said I would like to know in an air cooled hps setup how many watts of excess heat are removed by the air cooling and how many are removed by the actual AC.
OneHitDone
Well-Known Member
I can not give you watt or btu #'s but I can tell you for a fact that a 1000W Air cooled hps with the ballast mounter outside the grow space contributes less heat to the grow area than my 465W Inda-gro with pontoon.
Until there are air cooled led's commercially available Air cooled hps wins the heat debate all day in my opinion.
The only people who need a/c are those who live in areas where outside temps rise to levels above desirable or co2 implementation is used. Otherwise an air cooled hood and proper air flow get it done.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Again, I'm going to have to respectfully disagree with your assertion that a few hundred watts of online fans is the ultimate heat removal strategy. It can be done even better than you've done so far, and I plan to prove it to you.
I used to run Plantmax HPS thouies in Sun System XXXL Magnum 'Ocho' hoods. They saved maybe a third of the heat, and that was about it. I felt like I was losing more fucking light than that! Things got a lot brighter when I chucked the glass- and better still when I went bare bulb vertical and tossed the rest of the reflector!