DIY with Quantum Boards

[SoMe_EfFin_MasS_HoLe]

Thanks. If I wanted a longer distance on the wire to mount the driver external to the tent, would I be safe going with a smaller gauge (thicker) wire?

Yes, I dont see a problem with that. I'm not sure what gauge was used but a few people have done that. Though the heat from hlg drivers are minimal. If I remember correctly, the clips that are next to the solder points on the board are compatible with 14 ~ 18 gauge wire. I could be wrong but I'm 99.98% sure of it. Also, if you're going to run the wires through the tap holes on the sink. You might want to look into adding some wire shrink wrap. (I like double walled) My wires dont move much. I have noticed that if you're not gentle when they are put through the tap hole. They will fray a bit. You definitely dont want that to happen. Nothing says electric shock or possible fire than frayed wires. I've tried several size rubber groumets in said tap holes but nothing would fit. I mean it's not as if I pull on the wires but it is nice to know if an accident happens then your output wires are protected. Plus it would make it look much cleaner. (I'm a sucker for aesthetic') I asked @Stephenj37826 a few months back for the inner diameter of said tap holes. He must have missed the post. It would be nice to know but it's not a problem. They are super busy but their customer service is top notch. I've not had any issues but the ones who have were promptly taken care of. Hope that helps. If you have anymore questions and I know the answers I'm happy to help. If not then I could help you figure it out so we both can learn something new.

 

[SoMe_EfFin_MasS_HoLe]

Thanks, SWIM will order some 14 gauge wire then; the solid core wire? Also will get M5 screws, m5 screwdriver, wire strippers, wago clips, nema 15p 16/3 sjtw power cord. SWIM may solder the connections if they're straight forward enough. SWIM has a solder gun for electronics. I assume I'd use the standard flux / silver rosin for the solder joints?

Thanks everyone!

Yes solid core wire. Also the nema plug once it is unscrewed has 3 points of contact. Once its unscrewed you will see the points are color coated. I think the colors are black, silver & copper. Black will be your hot, silver will be your natural and copper will be your ground. Also, make sure you pay attention to the wires when putting the plug together. I dont want to see you or anyone else who reads this in the future fuck them self up or over if connection is not proper!
I use the old school lead & tin based soldier. It has a lower melting point and its easier to work with. You also do not need flux with tin/lead solder. I also like the old school solder because it's almost impossible to get a cold joint once the solder is finished. 60/40 will work fine. Just make sure you open a window and dont huff the stuff. M5 screws come in a few different sizes. I think the ones that are used to attach boards to the sink are #3 m5. You should get a pack of various m5 screws so if it's not the right size you dont have to run out and buy more. I only soldered the wires together and tined the tips of the connection points for the nema plug. The solder point on the board is very small, maybe 2 mm if that. I just tined the tips of the wires and stuck them in the clip. Also, look up what a lineman splice is if you do not know. It is the strongest way to splice a wire. I wouldnt use a gun I would use an iron. It's much easier to work with and less room for potential misshapen. A gun has more room for error in melting something if accidental contact happens. It has a wider working area then an iron. You can get a decent one at homechepo for 20 bucks.

 

[SoMe_EfFin_MasS_HoLe]

Thanks, SWIM will order some 14 gauge wire then; the solid core wire? Also will get M5 screws, m5 screwdriver, wire strippers, wago clips, nema 15p 16/3 sjtw power cord. SWIM may solder the connections if they're straight forward enough. SWIM has a solder gun for electronics. I assume I'd use the standard flux / silver rosin for the solder joints?

Thanks everyone!

P.s. what in the world is a SWIM?

 

[Humple]

P.s. what in the world is a SWIM?

Old-school netspeak - "someone who isn't me". Meant to avoid liability, should posts on message boards/forums ever be used as evidence. Though I haven't seen anyone but @jjng5 use it in a LONG time. Used to be quite common on sites like erowid and bluelight (might still be, but I haven't frequented those sites in years).

 

[jjng5]

Yes solid core wire. Also the nema plug once it is unscrewed has 3 points of contact. Once its unscrewed you will see the points are color coated. I think the colors are black, silver & copper. Black will be your hot, silver will be your natural and copper will be your ground. Also, make sure you pay attention to the wires when putting the plug together. I dont want to see you or anyone else who reads this in the future fuck them self up or over if connection is not proper!
I use the old school lead & tin based soldier. It has a lower melting point and its easier to work with. You also do not need flux with tin/lead solder. I also like the old school solder because it's almost impossible to get a cold joint once the solder is finished. 60/40 will work fine. Just make sure you open a window and dont huff the stuff. M5 screws come in a few different sizes. I think the ones that are used to attach boards to the sink are #3 m5. You should get a pack of various m5 screws so if it's not the right size you dont have to run out and buy more. I only soldered the wires together and tined the tips of the connection points for the nema plug. The solder point on the board is very small, maybe 2 mm if that. I just tined the tips of the wires and stuck them in the clip. Also, look up what a lineman splice is if you do not know. It is the strongest way to splice a wire. I wouldnt use a gun I would use an iron. It's much easier to work with and less room for potential misshapen. A gun has more room for error in melting something if accidental contact happens. It has a wider working area then an iron. You can get a decent one at homechepo for 20 bucks.

Awesome -- you are awesome! Thank you for your help. I meant solder iron (the small handheld). I'm not a pro with solder; I've wired PS1 and PS2 mod chips onto their circuit boards over the years but that's about the limit of my experience. I'm assuming if someone can disassemble and solder a mod chip, that they can probably figure out an LED board. Your info. is extremely helpful! Most of the resources out there are guided towards the DIY kits. Since SWIM bought everything separately in order to run two boards from one driver along with utilizing a higher mA on the boards, I've been trying to fill in the gaps.

Thanks again!

 

[jjng5]

Old-school netspeak - "someone who isn't me". Meant to avoid liability, should posts on message boards/forums ever be used as evidence. Though I haven't seen anyone but @jjng5 use it in a LONG time. Used to be quite common on sites like erowid and bluelight (might still be, but I haven't frequented those sites in years).

Hypothetically speaking for others it might bring a bit of piece of mind if nothing else. LOL. Others might also utilize VPN for similar reasons. Might be silly of course. Haha

 

[SoMe_EfFin_MasS_HoLe]

Old-school netspeak - "someone who isn't me". Meant to avoid liability, should posts on message boards/forums ever be used as evidence. Though I haven't seen anyone but @jjng5 use it in a LONG time. Used to be quite common on sites like erowid and bluelight (might still be, but I haven't frequented those sites in years).

That's what I thought but was not entirely sure. Thanks for letting me know. Learn something new every day.

 

[SoMe_EfFin_MasS_HoLe]

Awesome -- you are awesome! Thank you for your help. I meant solder iron (the small handheld). I'm not a pro with solder; I've wired PS1 and PS2 mod chips onto their circuit boards over the years but that's about the limit of my experience. I'm assuming if someone can disassemble and solder a mod chip, that they can probably figure out an LED board. Your info. is extremely helpful! Most of the resources out there are guided towards the DIY kits. Since SWIM bought everything separately in order to run two boards from one driver along with utilizing a higher mA on the boards, I've been trying to fill in the gaps.

Thanks again!

No problem at all. Glad to help! If you can solder circuits then wire should be a walk in the park. Hope all gos well & make sure you show us what ya got when you're finished. What size is your space?

 

[jjng5]

No problem at all. Glad to help! If you can solder circuits then wire should be a walk in the park. Hope all gos well & make sure you show us what ya got when you're finished. What size is your space?

Thank you! 4 QB324 V2's were ordered to run at 2800mA (two boards per driver). These boards are rated a little higher than the QB288's, with a max rating of 3200 mA. Presently there are two flowering tents on hand, (1) 4.54 x 4.54 and (1) 5 x 5 tent. The smaller tent has 2 x 400 HPS air-cooled and two of the QB324's will go in there. The 5x5 tent has 2 x 600 HPS and the other two QB324's will go in there. A separate veg/clone tent is 4x4 with a 4' 432 watt T5HO, a separate 2x2 tent with 2 x 96W T5HO's, and lastly a 3x3 tent with 3 foot mesh drying rack for drying.

SWIM will definitely get some pictures! SWIM might need some more help from you during the wiring process!

What HLG's do you have? SWIM would love to add more of these in time, maybe with some CO2. CO2 levels were tested with one disposable syringe meters at only ~300 PPM. Ouch. SWIM has been looking at environmental controllers that can also handle CO2. What do you think?

 

[pop22]

The connectors on the boards are designed for 18-22 gauge wire. You don't need heavier than 18 gauge for a distance of up to 20 feet. If you do us e say 14G, run it to a Wago or other connector to just short of the boards then 18G to the boards and to interconnect. I found 18 gauge twin lead on amazon. Its multi-strand and much nicer to route from a remote driver than stiff solid wire. I use 18 gauge solid from the wago and to interconnect the boards

Yes, I dont see a problem with that. I'm not sure what gauge was

used but a few people have done that. Though the heat from hlg drivers are minimal. If I remember correctly, the clips that are next to the solder points on the board are compatible with 14 ~ 18 gauge wire. I could be wrong but I'm 99.98% sure of it. Also, if you're going to run the wires through the tap holes on the sink. You might want to look into adding some wire shrink wrap. (I like double walled) My wires dont move much. I have noticed that if you're not gentle when they are put through the tap hole. They will fray a bit. You definitely dont want that to happen. Nothing says electric shock or possible fire than frayed wires. I've tried several size rubber groumets in said tap holes but nothing would fit. I mean it's not as if I pull on the wires but it is nice to know if an accident happens then your output wires are protected. Plus it would make it look much cleaner. (I'm a sucker for aesthetic') I asked @Stephenj37826 a few months back for the inner diameter of said tap holes. He must have missed the post. It would be nice to know but it's not a problem. They are super busy but their customer service is top notch. I've not had any issues but the ones who have were promptly taken care of. Hope that helps. If you have anymore questions and I know the answers I'm happy to help. If not then I could help you figure it out so we both can learn something new.

 

[SoMe_EfFin_MasS_HoLe]

Thank you! 4 QB324 V2's were ordered to run at 2800mA (two boards per driver). These boards are rated a little higher than the QB288's, with a max rating of 3200 mA. Presently there are two flowering tents on hand, (1) 4.54 x 4.54 and (1) 5 x 5 tent. The smaller tent has 2 x 400 HPS air-cooled and two of the QB324's will go in there. The 5x5 tent has 2 x 600 HPS and the other two QB324's will go in there. A separate veg/clone tent is 4x4 with a 4' 432 watt T5HO, a separate 2x2 tent with 2 x 96W T5HO's, and lastly a 3x3 tent with 3 foot mesh drying rack for drying.

SWIM will definitely get some pictures! SWIM might need some more help from you during the wiring process!

What HLG's do you have? SWIM would love to add more of these in time, maybe with some CO2. CO2 levels were tested with one disposable syringe meters at only ~300 PPM. Ouch. SWIM has been looking at environmental controllers that can also handle CO2. What do you think?

Wow what a setup. I look forward to seeing those pictures. I have 3 v2 288' on a triple sink. I'm only in a 2×4 space at the moment due to mobility issues I've been working on. (Was hit by a drunk in 2017 & just started to barely be able to walk in mid july of 2018. Also suffer from pcs which has gotten alot better.) That's why I said I could be wrong about wire gauges.

I've not gotten to a point where I know enough about co2 supplementation to give you a correct answer. I do know that what I have read from ppl is they do use environmental controls. I also know most use sealed rooms. Not sure how good it will work in a tent due to zippers and needle holes from thread. I suppose you could use HVAC tape to cover zippers and holes. Though I would think you would lose alot of co2 when opening and closing the tent and from exhaust.

 

[pop22]

A good controller will turn the CO2 and exhaust fans on and off according to temperature. When the heat gets to say 85 or 90F the exhaust comes on and the CO2 is turned of until the temp drops to a set point. you can also use a timer to turn the CO2 on and off in 15 minute intervals as a way to conserve when used in a tent.

Wow what a setup. I look forward to seeing those pictures. I have 3 v2 288' on a triple sink. I'm only in a 2×4 space at the moment due to mobility issues I've been working on. (Was hit by a drunk in 2017 & just started to barely be able to walk in mid july of 2018. Also suffer from pcs which has gotten alot better.) That's why I said I could be wrong about wire gauges.

I've not gotten to a point where I know enough about co2 supplementation to give you a correct answer. I do know that what I have read from ppl is they do use environmental controls. I also know most use sealed rooms. Not sure how good it will work in a tent due to zippers and needle holes from thread. I suppose you could use HVAC tape to cover zippers and holes. Though I would think you would lose alot of co2 when opening and closing the tent and from exhaust.

 

[jjng5]

A good controller will turn the CO2 and exhaust fans on and off according to temperature. When the heat gets to say 85 or 90F the exhaust comes on and the CO2 is turned of until the temp drops to a set point. you can also use a timer to turn the CO2 on and off in 15 minute intervals as a way to conserve when used in a tent.

@pop22 thanks for the info! Do you recommend any certain controllers or know of any ones that people seem to like?

Thanks for the help! QB's are due for delivery tomorrow - yay!

 

[pop22]

I've only run mine with a fancy controller. might be a future addition no that I can stop buying light for a while lol! I haven't run CO2 in a long time.

@pop22 thanks for the info! Do you recommend any certain controllers or know of any ones that people seem to like?

Thanks for the help! QB's are due for delivery tomorrow - yay!

 

[40inch]

Hey guys. First post here. I received my 260W QB V1 kit a few days ago. I wired everything up today and it will not light. Now I’m no master electrician, but this is pretty straight forward and I’m pretty confident I have it correct. What are the odds I got a bad driver out of the box. Thanks for any help.

 

[40inch]

Well I give up for today. I’ve wired it exactly how it is on the website and I’ve watched several videos lol. If I wire just one board it lights up! But can’t get them to work together ‍.. but that one board that did work was insanely bright I can’t imagine both.

 

[pop22]

EDIT:

Sorry that was suppose to say without a fancy controller lol!

I've only run mine with a fancy controller. might be a future addition no that I can stop


buying light for a while lol! I haven't run CO2 in a long time.

 

[pop22]

On the output side you should have a black and a red wire, this is DC power to your boards.
Also, looks like you wired your boards in series and they won't work on that driver in series, they draw too much voltage. You need to wire them in parallel and it will split the amperage across the two boards and you'll get about 120 watts per board.

It pays to download and read the spec sheets for LED drivers, that's how you know how many cobs or QBs you can run per driver.

Well I give up for today. I’ve wired it exactly how it is on the website and I’ve watched several videos lol. If I wire just one board it lights up! But can’t get them to work together ‍.. but that one board that did work was insanely bright I can’t imagine both.

 

[jjng5]

On the output side you should have a black and a red wire, this is DC power to your boards.
Also, looks like you wired your boards in series and they won't work on that driver in series, they draw too much voltage. You need to wire them in parallel and it will split the amperage across the two boards and you'll get about 120 watts per board.

It pays to download and read the spec sheets for LED drivers, that's how you know how many cobs or QBs you can run per driver.

@pop22 it's been two full weeks with clones in the aerocloner. This is rough. What do you think?

 

[pop22]

Could be a couple of reasons. I've DIY a cloner and the biggest problem was a poor spray pattern. What pump are you using? what pattern nozzles? 180 or 360? Actually after another look at the spray bar, the spray bar is too small from that tote what roots you do have are on the center plants

Also, some strains are a pain in the ass to clone. Humidity domes over the plants also helps even with aerocloners. I am a fan of ducksfoot and that is the bitchiest plant in the world to clone.... I went from it taking a month to clone without a humidity dome to 2 two weeks with one.

@pop22 it's been two full weeks with clones in the aerocloner. This is rough. What do you think?
View attachment 4287177 View attachment 4287178[/QUOTE