klx
Well-Known Member
For me 15 on 15 off works best..seems to keep the water at a good temp for rooting but I have never measured it. I tried an aquarium heater it lasted 1 batch and broke so never bothered again.
The klx Way!
- Thread starter klx
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Keesje
Well-Known Member
I do love how you handle things. Some people here pretend that you have to do all those very special things, materials and ingredients and have to be very exact. They make it look like you have to be part of this secret brotherhood where only members know the special rules.
What is your light regime for the cloner?
Do you run it 24/7?
Or 18/6?
klx
Well-Known Member
haha yeah man KISS is the hardest and most important lesson to learn with all gardening, doesnt matter if its wicking barrels, organics or hydro. The simplest way is most often the best as long as you are methodical and consistent.
Cloner is in the mum room so its on the same 18/6 as my mums.
How is your grow going?
Keesje
Well-Known Member
Due to legal issues there is no grow at the moment 
But trying things out with other plants, and having fun with that.
On this forum I see loads of people getting 1.5 gramms per 1 Watt with LED.
You seem to run just over 1 gramm/1 watt LED, which is already impressive.
What do you think causes the difference?
But trying things out with other plants, and having fun with that.
On this forum I see loads of people getting 1.5 gramms per 1 Watt with LED.
You seem to run just over 1 gramm/1 watt LED, which is already impressive.
What do you think causes the difference?
klx
Well-Known Member
Veg time. Gram per watt is ok as a rough measure but only against your own grows. I do zero veg, which means I dont need a veg room and I dont need veg time so I only use 8 weeks of light for a plant to go from rooted clone to flower. This is the true key to SoG.Due to legal issues there is no grow at the moment
But trying things out with other plants, and having fun with that.
On this forum I see loads of people getting 1.5 gramms per 1 Watt with LED.
You seem to run just over 1 gramm/1 watt LED, which is already impressive.
What do you think causes the difference?
Keesje
Well-Known Member
Thanks again!
I saw that in your tray you only use 1 riser.
So the water comes approx 4 to 5 centimer high and then it flows back to the reservoir.
What would you think will happen if you would add another riser, so the waterlevel will come to 8 to 10 centimeters high?
Would there be more roots?
Perhaps bigger plants?
Or would it not make that much of a difference?
I saw that in your tray you only use 1 riser.
So the water comes approx 4 to 5 centimer high and then it flows back to the reservoir.
What would you think will happen if you would add another riser, so the waterlevel will come to 8 to 10 centimeters high?
Would there be more roots?
Perhaps bigger plants?
Or would it not make that much of a difference?
klx
Well-Known Member
It probably would help a bit, especially at first when the roots are small. But I would need a larger res to make sure the water level stays above the pump. Always room for improvement and I definitely think my res management could be improved.
Keesje
Well-Known Member
On another grow I saw also a situation where the waterlevel did not come that high.
I think it was in DWC.
The upper part of the roots looked very hard, more like a rope.
No side roots at all.
Beneath the waterlevel the roots looked like you wanted them to look. Lots of side roots and those hairy roots.
I think it was in DWC.
The upper part of the roots looked very hard, more like a rope.
No side roots at all.
Beneath the waterlevel the roots looked like you wanted them to look. Lots of side roots and those hairy roots.
klx
Well-Known Member
Thats exactly right. Thats why you want a really good spray of roots and push the stem of the clone down through the net pot so the bottom of the stem sits just above the flood level.
klx
Well-Known Member
Yes, I know my room temp and humidity at all times. My room is not sealed so my room has seasons. Right now its summer and the room stays between approx 23 and 30C. I allow my humidity to go higher when the room temps are higher as per VPD. Winter room temps get lower at night which definitely brings out more colour in the plants and more frost.
Water temps I have no idea - I would guesstimate maximum 25C in Summer and under 20C in winter. I know a lot of people spend a lot of time talking about water temps and water chillers etc but I am not one of those people. Lots of aeration and regular H2O2 takes care of any pathogens.
Keesje
Well-Known Member
I totally agree with your point of view.
People - especially in the cannabis scene - make too much of a fuzz about it.
As commercial hydrogrowers couldn't care less.
But people in the cannabis world are parrots. They just repeat what they heard somewhere else without knowing what they say and what it means. And often they think that cannabis is this special plant given to us by the Gods or from Mount Olympus. A plant that reacts and grows totally different then any other plant on the planet earth.
I visit commercial growers regularly.
They don't even measure the amount of Dissolved Oxygen and the water temperature.
As long as the temperature stays in a certain range, let's say between 18 and 35 degrees (35 not for too long) they are happy.
Also they circulate their bassin every hour for 5 or 10 minutes. That's all.
What they are aware of is preventing that roots get a 'shock'.
So no cold water when the plant was in warm circumstances all the time.
No abrupt changes in temperature, EC, additives.
People - especially in the cannabis scene - make too much of a fuzz about it.
As commercial hydrogrowers couldn't care less.
But people in the cannabis world are parrots. They just repeat what they heard somewhere else without knowing what they say and what it means. And often they think that cannabis is this special plant given to us by the Gods or from Mount Olympus. A plant that reacts and grows totally different then any other plant on the planet earth.
I visit commercial growers regularly.
They don't even measure the amount of Dissolved Oxygen and the water temperature.
As long as the temperature stays in a certain range, let's say between 18 and 35 degrees (35 not for too long) they are happy.
Also they circulate their bassin every hour for 5 or 10 minutes. That's all.
What they are aware of is preventing that roots get a 'shock'.
So no cold water when the plant was in warm circumstances all the time.
No abrupt changes in temperature, EC, additives.
klx
Well-Known Member
Right now I do 30 on / 30 off. What's NFT fabric? When I googled it I got wigs haha
OneHitDone
Well-Known Member
klx
Well-Known Member
Thanks. I just went for a surf after posting and was thinking on it and was actually coco mat might be worth a try. Would not create any extra work really could just compost it along with the roots at harvest.
I just loaded a new tray yesterday but I have a tray on day 39 so will try it when that one is done.
klx
Well-Known Member
Got a link?
Edit> A quick look at the garden centre I see a couple of options that may work.
1. https://www.bunnings.com.au/pillar-products-0-915-x-10m-waterlock-premium-mulch-mat_p3042245 - very cheap but would also create landfill waste so not too keen on doing that.
2. https://www.bunnings.com.au/gardman-75-x-100cm-coco-roll-basket-liner_p0035932 - $17 per tray is good value if it could increase yield by even an ounce. Plus can go straight to compost...
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klx
Well-Known Member
Are you in the UK? A search brings up a lot of UK based stores. Seems like the material they use is some sort of fleece, Probably PET or some shit. I will definitely give the coco mat a try on the next available tray and go from there. Cheers for the suggestion!