# In Need of Used Small Indoor Grow Set Up



## weaslesgrownhome561 (Mar 16, 2007)

as title says. i need something small like 6 plant maximum. i grew once before in an older photoron only 1 plant yeild. dont even remember how much i got out. so i guess i need lights, seeds, and any other equip u think i might need im not aware of. last time i grew it in dirt. i might still go that route. but im capable of building a small hydroponics set up. any help i'd appreciate it.

weasle from 561


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## Vote 2 Legalize Marijuana (Mar 16, 2007)

I'd turn you on to some equipment, but unfortunately I can't give away my Top Secret location. If I did then I would have to shoot you! lol

Build Your Own Ebb & Flo Or Top Feeder


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## greentoker (Mar 16, 2007)

try rona store have most of it there


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## FilthyFletch (Mar 17, 2007)

6 plants huh..Make a bubble system out of a rubbermain container can be done for under $40 then you need a 400 watt hps light from ebay around $85 then your good to go.Well plus nutes but thats not part of the system


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## mogie (Mar 17, 2007)

Something like this?

The cheapo-Aero cloner is a very simple device to build. 
It will perform just as well as expensive aero cloners costing hundreds of dollars. It operates on the same principle as every other aero cloner on the market, which is that the stems of the cuttings are suspended in an air space being misted by a fine spray of tiny flying water droplets. 

Some aero cloner variations... 
Some aero cloners work by way of the water being sprayed thru fine mist sprayheads by a water pump, others like the Rainforest cloner work by a spinning rotor which flings small water specs at the stems. There are even cloners on the market which use ultrasonic humidifier fog being pumped thru a chamber holding the stems. 

The cheapo-aero works on the "bubbling bucket" principle, where tiny water droplets are created by the action of the air bubbles bursting at the water surface, sending a mist of water flying thru the open air space above the waterline where the stems are located. 

I named it "Cheapo-Aero" because it is a cheap and simple alternative to the more complicated water pumped thru sprayers type aero cloner tubs. Ok, lets do it... 


*The materials list:* (clockwise from top left)




One - good quality dual outlet airpump. I recommend the whisper 20/60 or the pulsar four. both are @ $20.00 

One - cheap pull up tripper type timer about @ $5.00, please dont try aero cloning without the timer, it is critical imho for fast rooting. 

A short length of 1/2" rubber fuel line or vynil tubing. 

Fishtank airline or (preferred) some soft flexible black vynil drip line for the air bubblers. 

One - Rubbermaid roughneck 1 gallon tub with lid @ $1.00 

Two - aquaculture "bubble curtain" 10" bubble wands. @ $3.50 each 

Assembly tools: drill bit(s), sharp box cutter knife, drip line punch and coupler fittings (optional). 

One - tube of Goop brand plumbers adhesive @ $4.00 

One - Spray can of Plasti-Dip brand "Spray-On" black rubber coating @ $6.00 

One - 7-1/2 watt fishbowl heater. Walmart @ $6.00 
AF has great luck using the cheap heater. However, please note that the small heater has no thermostatic control, depending on your room temperature, it may need to be connected to a timer and monitored to be certain that you dont overheat the water. So, if you can find a fully submersible thermostatic controlled heater that will fit in the tub without getting in the way of the air bubbles, I highly recommend doing so. There are several on the market which will mount along the bottom of the tub, parallel to the bubble curtains, use 25 watts or smaller size. You can also use use a thermostat controlled heating mat or place the entire cloner tub in a larger tray of water with an aquarium heater if you have a submirsible unit which is too large to fit in your tub. 

*The bubble curtains...*





The Aqua Tech brand "bubble curtain" or equivalent are the only bubble device I'd recommend for bubble cloning. They are the least restrictive to pump air thru, and because of their hollow tubular design they produce a very uniform bubble coverage thruout the entire length of the wand. 





*Cut the bubble curtains to fit the length of the tub.*





Remove the end cap and cut the wand to length using a sharp box cutter or razor blade knife. Replace endcaps. 






*One wand or two ?*





The cheapo works great with one wand or two. For this project lets use two wands. Note picture also shows the location of the little heater installed. Use a dab of goop on the heaters suction cup to hold it in place between the wands. 









*Glue in the wand holding clips*





The suction cups provided with the bubble curtains are prone to failure, when the cups stop sticking the air wand floats to the surface and the bubbling action stops working, causing failed clones. 

Pull the clips out of the suction cups and glue them in place using the Goop plumbers adhesive to the bottom of the tub. You should rough up the gluing surface by scratching it with a knife or coarse sandpaper for a better grip. 

Allow the glue to dry for at least two days to be sure its fully cured. 

*The waterline*





The rubbermaid one gallon tub has a ridge molded in about 2-1/2" from the top. This will be the waterline. 

For a nice sanitary assembly, punch two dripline couplers thru about a 1/4" above the ridge for the airlines to exit the tub. 




*Spray on the plasti dip black rubber coating...*





The tub needs to be coated to prevent light from penetrating the tub and slowing down the rooting process. Normal spray paint does not stick and is too light transparent. The plasti dip sticks to the rubbermaid very well and with two or three coats fairly thick and very light proof. Spray and dry in a very well ventilated area. 

You can get away with a few layers of duct tape, or a layer of "anti-corrosion pipe wrapping tape". But, the Plasti-Dip I've found to be the best solution for light proofing and neatness. 

*Drill the lid for the clone support tubes*





underside of lid to show hole pattern used 

















For small clones, the 1/4" o.d. x .170 i.d. flexible drip line works fine for support tubes, but rooted clones can be tricky to remove from small the lid holes. Note tape tabs to keep the smaller supports from falling thru the lid, and numbering to identify the clones. 



Optional larger support tube holes (recommended). 





Using the 1/2" tubing for support tubes makes it much easier to remove the rooted clones from the lid. Number the holes to identify the clones later on. With either size holes, the **support tubes are cut to a maximum length of 1/2"* and split down one side to be able to remove the rooted clones. 

*It is important to have the support tubes cut short (@ 1/2" max). The original plans had longer tubes which caused problems on some cuttings. 

*You're all done building your Cheapo-Aero cloner*


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## mogie (Mar 17, 2007)

This one has misters:


Rated by 11 users: 6.00/10





*Materials List:* 
1 opaque plastic tub 
1 Rio 800 water powerhead 
10 foot length PVC, 1/2-inch 
8 slip-coupling PVC elbows (90 degree turns) 
1 slip-coupling / threaded PVC T-adapter 
1 threaded hose nozzle 

8 180 degree jet sprayers (part 111B) 
4 PVC to poly-tube adapters 
2 feet flexible hose 
1 roll 1/2-inch black poly-tubing 
1 can white spray paint or coating






Every component to make this aeroponic tub is available at your local Home dePot,Wal-Mart, and aquarium store. You could probably get it all from the dePot, but they don't have the greatest selection of tubs. 

You can use a different pump and skip the aquarium store, but the Rio is a good choice @ 211 gph. It comes with a ball valve to control the flow and the 800 uses a ceramic impeller so it won't degrade in saltwater. 

The only problematic component in this design is the grade of misters easily available. A few different configurations were tried, and the barbed misters screwed into semi-flexible poly-tubing seemed to give the best results. All of these components are located near the plumbing and PVC in a section for sprinklers and drip irrigation, the brand is "DIG Corporation." If easily available, you can use better misters from a grow store.







Cut the PVC to necessary lengths. The most important factor is the height of the assembly, so don't cut it too short. You can always lower it afterwards. The 8 elbows connect the sides, and the T is inserted opposite the pump. The T-adapter has one threaded connection for the hose nozzle. 

After completing the PVC work, the next step is making the spraybars. These are the black tubes that hold the misters, it is a somewhat stiff poly tubing sold for use with the emitters. This is where your clogs will happen so be prepared-- have extra misters on hand and you can even build two extra spray bars that you can swap in while you clean the others. 






The spraybar starts with a PVC to Poly tube adapter (sold with all the other DIG accessories) and a length of the tubing. Next make very small guide holes for the misters to go into the tubing. It is very important for the holes to be small, it should be difficult to push the emitter into the tube. If the fit is not secure, the emitter will not spray. You may have to make a few spraybars before you get it right. 

Your worst enemy will be clogs. Either you can replace the mister or the entire spraybar. This is the biggest disadvantage of aeroponics, but running distilled water for cloning will keep clogs to a minimum. If you clean it out it between cloning sessions it should hardly clog at all. 







After you get the spraybars right, install them in the system and turn it on. You should get fountains of small droplets splashing up, not really a mist from these emitters, but it is still a very good cloning environment. 

All thats left after that is to finish the top. Sold near the spray paint is a white rubber coating that lasts much better. This takes at least two or three coats for a good reflective surface. Be sure and drill the holes first or you will ruin the finish. Also cut a notch for the power cord so the top closes completely. 

To hold the clones in you can use pieces of tubing, pre-split down the middle. You can easily remove these tubes and the clone without damaging the root system. They need to be transplanted quickly when they root or they will become accustomed to the aeroponics and have a more difficult time leaving. If transplanting into soil or soilless mix you can even move them as soon as they show bumps, around 5 days, and they will root with no transplant shock in around a week. 








The quality of water that you put in the tub has a direct relationship to how fast the cuts will root. The best water to start with is either distilled or reverse-osmosis. They should both be between 0 and 20 parts per million and between 6.5 and 7.0 pH. Using tap water will clog the emitters much more quickly with mineral deposits. No rooting hormone is needed. 

Some people report good results by using a watering schedule of 1/2 hour on, 1/2 hour off, but leaving the pump on constantly has always produced quick rooting as well. The water is super-saturated with oxygen from the constant splashing and spraying. If the ambient temperature isn't high enough, a necessary piece of equipment is an aquarium heater set at 78 degrees. 

I hope you find this tub and aeroponic rooting method to be the simplest and most effective technique around. You simply fill the tub with clean water, take a cut, and drop it in. 7 days later you have roots-- no chemicals, no rockwool, no mess.


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## weaslesgrownhome561 (Mar 23, 2007)

all i have to say is damn, i got some response to that question. thanks for the souport. i actually researched it a lot further and i guess im the dishonest grower. i just got some free lights from a HUGE neighborhood in my area it wasn't even done and they have hundreds of them just going to waste on palm trees. there 175w h.i.d mh bulbs nice new lights. i cut 4" hole in the case and some vents on the side and the light is ready to be cooled by a 120mm 12v computer fan thru 4" dryer duct to the vent out side. but i guess im gonne fill a long section of tube with carbon before the exit so the smell doesn't get out. and another in the in the area where the grow room is. i hope this eliminates the smell i have condons in one building set up.i'll write more later i have to go. but the video i wanna replicate is this one.... nice video how to get 1/4lb every 2 months. a canada video. enjoy

I Grow Chronic Documentary Educational Purposes only! - Google Video


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