# What is the proper water temperature for cloning using a cloning machine



## colonuggs (Feb 18, 2012)

Hey people lets talk about cloning temperatures...some say 70 some say 80.

When I take clones using Rapid Rooters and a Dome... I get quicker roots in summertime when the temp is 80... in the wintertime the temp drops down to around 70 and the clones take twice as long to root.

I have the ez cloner its running a temp of 78*F.... people are saying you want to be at 70*F....WHY?

Is it just because the slime monster and bacteria say away with the colder temps??? They have clonex clear rez you can run lower 80s and be ok.
Let the input begin


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## TriPurple (Feb 18, 2012)

colonuggs said:


> Hey people lets talk about cloning temperatures...some say 70 some say 80.
> 
> When I take clones using Rapid Rooters and a Dome... I get quicker roots in summertime when the temp is 80... in the wintertime the temp drops down to around 70 and the clones take twice as long to root.
> 
> ...


80's are definitely better until you see roots then 70's


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## colonuggs (Feb 19, 2012)

My Exodus Cheese rooted fast 6 days & was ready for tranplanting after 14 days

after 16 days ....My pre 98 was ready for transplanting into a 6 inch cup

Its cool how different strains have different root structures


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## Bigz2277 (Feb 19, 2012)

colonuggs said:


> My Exodus Cheese rooted fast 6 days & was ready for tranplanting after 14 days
> 
> after 16 days ....My pre 98 was ready for transplanting into a 6 inch cup
> 
> Its cool how different strains have different root structures


is that necrosis on the bottom leaves?


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## StinkBud (Feb 19, 2012)

Plants root faster if the water temps are close to 80 but you take a risk of "the funk" with anything over 70 degrees. So it's up to you. Do you want to take a chance and get the funk? Once you get it it's almost impossible to get rid of. 

I have 20+ clones going all the time. Even if it takes a little longer to clone at 70 it doesn't matter to me because I still have clones coming out my ass.

The biggest problem with a good aero cloner is what the fuck do you do with all the extra plants you don't need. I like to "Spread the Love"

Remember, some strains pop roots in 4 days, some strains take 4 weeks! You will find that the woody stemmed plants like OG Kush take a long time to pop roots.

The plans and instruction to my new cloner will be out in the High Times Master's Growers Guide this May. The new cloner rocks!

StinkBud


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## Warlock1369 (Feb 19, 2012)

I keep mine at 78-82 till roots get 1 inch long. Then it's down to 75. Till 4-8 inch long. Then it's to my pre veg set at 68-70.


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## youngtrader9689 (Feb 19, 2012)

i have always used 70-70-70
70 temp 70 water temp(tops) and 70 humidity 
winter here now so the very dry air will make ez cloners not so easy
it usually only takes 10 days cut to root in hydroton year round


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## midnightfarmer (Feb 20, 2012)

80° and you wont even need rooting gel


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## johnny garcia (Mar 16, 2012)

if u run in tha 80s jus change your water every 5 days


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## woodsmaneh! (Mar 16, 2012)

I have found that 75 to 80 is what works best. I think the difference in rooting in summer and winter is the humidity, lower in winter so take longer.


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## missnu (Mar 16, 2012)

The colder the water is, and the warmer the ambient temp the faster you will get roots...like my tent is really warm and the cloner water gets really warm, so I have to stick Ice Packs in the water a few times a day for everything to keep growing quickly...so cold water and hot leaves makes for fast roots.


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## missnu (Mar 16, 2012)

More oxygen is held in colder water...if I let the cloner water stay warm the clones don't die, but they take 2x longer to root as well...I have roots in around 4 days...with 4 different strains..and then one strain that always takes 5-6..lol. But I feel pretty good about the whole thing...I also clone under a 400w MH my veg area...with the big fan and everything...so that helps with the fast rooting too...no domes...


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## CocoCola (Jan 22, 2017)

I get the best results by keeping sterile and hitting AT LEAST 75 F and I shoot for 82 - 85 for fast results. YOu dont wnat to go over 87. 

PermaClone taught me everything I know! Canna taught me to grow, PermaClone taught me to clone. You don't have to buy their expensive collars to get the results, either...just replace you collars. The goal is steirlity. They outline the best cloning recipes on their website. 

https://www.permaclone.com/blogs/news/the-3-reasons-clones-fail

https://www.permaclone.com/blogs/news/advanced-cloning-tips-tricks

https://www.permaclone.com/blogs/news/sterilizable-collars-permaclone-has-your-answers


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## adower (Jan 22, 2017)

colonuggs said:


> Hey people lets talk about cloning temperatures...some say 70 some say 80.
> 
> When I take clones using Rapid Rooters and a Dome... I get quicker roots in summertime when the temp is 80... in the wintertime the temp drops down to around 70 and the clones take twice as long to root.
> 
> ...


I run my cloner at 65 degree. I have a water chiller plugged into it and two air stones. Never had to worry about rot and don't lose clones.


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## BobBitchen (Jan 22, 2017)

76* works well for me.


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## MurdochJones (Nov 3, 2018)

StinkBud said:


> Plants root faster if the water temps are close to 80 but you take a risk of "the funk" with anything over 70 degrees. So it's up to you. Do you want to take a chance and get the funk? Once you get it it's almost impossible to get rid of.
> 
> I have 20+ clones going all the time. Even if it takes a little longer to clone at 70 it doesn't matter to me because I still have clones coming out my ass.
> 
> ...


 Can you clarify on the funk? Tried looking it up but I couldn’t find anything. Been dealing with some odd, small and stunted leaf growth as well as extremely light green stems, regardless of strain. Just curious if there’s any correlation


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## Big Perm (Nov 9, 2018)

MurdochJones said:


> Can you clarify on the funk? Tried looking it up but I couldn’t find anything. Been dealing with some odd, small and stunted leaf growth as well as extremely light green stems, regardless of strain. Just curious if there’s any correlation


The funk is slime in your res. Algae, and bacteria. Will lead to quick root rot. If your clone gets slime, it's about as good as gone. It tends to start at temps above 72.
I change my res out every other day and try to run 80. It's just ph adjusted water, so it's not like I'm out anything to change it.
I also run a dome and humidity is 96.


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## Major Blazer (Nov 10, 2018)

Warmer water is fine in an aero or dwc cloner bc they shouldn’t spend enough time in there to dev any slime. As someone earlier mentioned, cooler temps are fine too, it just takes a few more days.


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## kushdaddy1980 (Dec 11, 2018)

im running mine at 70-75, was having problems above 80°.water pump was heating up the water so i modified a timer to cycle on and off every 2 and 5 minutes and the pump stays cool. Temped res today at 70°F.


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## RussellRuss23 (Jun 5, 2019)

missnu said:


> The colder the water is, and the warmer the ambient temp the faster you will get roots...like my tent is really warm and the cloner water gets really warm, so I have to stick Ice Packs in the water a few times a day for everything to keep growing quickly...so cold water and hot leaves makes for fast roots.


So it is fine to throw ice cubes in your cloner rez to cool it down?


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## kushdaddy1980 (Jun 5, 2019)

RussellRuss23 said:


> So it is fine to throw ice cubes in your cloner rez to cool it down?


ive never used ice packs i just turned the pump off intermittenly and let the water cool down on its own.


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## Or_Gro (Jun 5, 2019)

Water temp is always a tradeoff between metabolism and molecular oxygen content.

Within a reasonable range, the lower the temp, the more molecular oxygen water can hold, the higher the temp the higher metabolic rate in plant tissues. Growers get away with near 80F temps in aerocloners cuz the misters add so much air to the water....

Higher water temp and lower molecular oxygen also makes for great environment for undesirable microbes.

I like 68F water temp, no roots no nutes, hydroguard or garden friendly fungicide, pH 6.0-6.1, humidity dome w at least 70% rh, air temp 75-78F, and light ~50 ppfd.

Use frozen water bottles or chiller to cool water, use incandescent lights to warm air. Pumps add heat, so timing reasonable intermittent on/off can reduce heat.

Around 10 days to roots, near 100% survival.

Day 6 since cutting:

(Ignore temp/rh meter, dome off door open)


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## JSB99 (Jun 5, 2019)

Big Perm said:


> The funk is slime in your res. Algae, and bacteria. Will lead to quick root rot. If your clone gets slime, it's about as good as gone.


That's why I scrub and spray bleach/water mix (1:5) every four or five days, when I swap the water.


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## Or_Gro (Jun 5, 2019)

JSB99 said:


> That's why I scrub and spray bleach/water mix (1:5) every four or five days, when I swap the water.


Lotta needless work, if you just control your temps and use hydroguard or gff...


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## JSB99 (Jun 5, 2019)

Or_Gro said:


> Lotta needless work, if you just control your temps and use hydroguard or gff...


My temps are always in check, and I've never had to use Hydrogaurd, but I'm in the habit of sterilizing everything. Nothing extensive, just a minute with Dawn and a sponge, and a quick spray of bleach.


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## Or_Gro (Jun 5, 2019)

JSB99 said:


> My temps are always in check, and I've never had to use Hydrogaurd, but I'm in the habit of sterilizing everything. Nothing extensive, just a minute with Dawn and a sponge, and a quick spray of bleach.


Whatever trips your trigger, dude...


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## JSB99 (Jun 5, 2019)

Or_Gro said:


> Whatever trips your trigger, dude...


Not sure if it trips my trigger, but it definitely puffs my Cheetos


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## DaFreak (Jun 6, 2019)

I've been using aero-cloners for decades now and I just use whatever dish detergent my wife buys that week to clean it. No problems. In fact I'm a lazy bastard and I've actually done 2 cycles on the same Rez before because I had to stick my hands down my pants and watch something stupid on TV that night. 

On a serious note, DCyans was a grower who made great cloners and did many years of testing and notes on aero-cloning and if I remember right he noted that cuts rooted fastest at 5.3 pH.


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## Or_Gro (Jun 7, 2019)

Day 9:


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## JSB99 (Jun 7, 2019)

This is how I keep my cloner cool, when the roots have formed. A single frozen jug lasts the entire day. I have a couple inches of water in the bottom container. Much better contact with the cloner surfaces. My temp drops from 75 to 65, and stays there.







A towel provides insulation and keeps the jug frozen much longer






I just moved these two littles into mini dwc buckets, later into the tent. Same cooling applies.


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## Or_Gro (Jun 7, 2019)

JSB99 said:


> This is how I keep my cloner cool, when the roots have formed. A single frozen jug lasts the entire day. I have a couple inches of water in the bottom container. Much better contact with the cloner surfaces. My temp drops from 75 to 65, and stays there.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You’ve got the manual cooling down, dude!

But those biggass netpots waste so much water....


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## DaFreak (Jun 7, 2019)

Or-gro I tried using that yellow top home-depot or the other one, forget which, but it sucked so bad. Couldn't get it to stop leaking out the sides. I gave up on making my own because I couldn't find a plastic box that was right. Made dozens before in a different country and they all worked. For some reason American plastic boxes suck.


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## Or_Gro (Jun 7, 2019)

DaFreak said:


> Or-gro I tried using that yellow top home-depot or the other one, forget which, but it sucked so bad. Couldn't get it to stop leaking out the sides. I gave up on making my own because I couldn't find a plastic box that was right. Made dozens before in a different country and they all worked. For some reason American plastic boxes suck.


Yep, you’ve got to install weatherstripping, in the lid, to seal them...basically, they need a gasket...



Don’t give up, man...here’s what you need:



Make your own dome with pvc and saran wrap...


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## JSB99 (Jun 7, 2019)

Or_Gro said:


> You’ve got the manual cooling down, dude!
> 
> But those biggass netpots waste so much water....


Yeah, but they're going in the 27-gallon totes in a couple weeks, when I move my JackH outside.


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## JSB99 (Jun 7, 2019)

DaFreak said:


> Or-gro I tried using that yellow top home-depot or the other one, forget which, but it sucked so bad. Couldn't get it to stop leaking out the sides. I gave up on making my own because I couldn't find a plastic box that was right. Made dozens before in a different country and they all worked. For some reason American plastic boxes suck.


 I've always had issues with aerocloners leaking. It's why I only use bubble cloners. Works the same.


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## Or_Gro (Jun 7, 2019)

JSB99 said:


> Yeah, but they're going in the 27-gallon totes in a couple weeks, when I move my JackH outside.


What stem diameter have you gotten in a 27-gal tote?


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## JSB99 (Jun 7, 2019)

Or_Gro said:


> Yep, you’ve got to install weatherstripping, in the lid, to seal them...basically, they need a gasket...
> 
> View attachment 4346618
> 
> ...


Or simply go to a bubble cloner. Once rooted, clones go from wanting 80 degree water to below 70. With the pump in the water generating heat, it's a little tougher to do.


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## JSB99 (Jun 7, 2019)

Or_Gro said:


> What stem diameter have you gotten in a 27-gal tote?


Never measured, but at least a couple inches


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## Or_Gro (Jun 7, 2019)

JSB99 said:


> I've always had issues with aerocloners leaking. It's why I only use bubble cloners. Works the same.


You put in a good gasket and keep your collar holes tight, no leaks...put a catchpan under them for stoner mistakes.....

No way they do same job....stones can never do the job a mister can....


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## Or_Gro (Jun 7, 2019)

JSB99 said:


> Never measured, but at least a couple inches


3” net cup does that job...8-gal is plenty for that....


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## JSB99 (Jun 7, 2019)

Or_Gro said:


> 3” net cup does that job...8-gal is plenty for that....


I usually have 60 gallons in my RDWC, LOL!


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## JSB99 (Jun 7, 2019)

DaFreak said:


> Or-gro I tried using that yellow top home-depot or the other one, forget which, but it sucked so bad. Couldn't get it to stop leaking out the sides. I gave up on making my own because I couldn't find a plastic box that was right. Made dozens before in a different country and they all worked. For some reason American plastic boxes suck.


Yeah, I definitely would've used a different tote if I was using sprayers


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## JSB99 (Jun 7, 2019)

Or_Gro said:


> You put in a good gasket and keep your collar holes tight, no leaks...put a catchpan under them for stoner mistakes.....
> 
> No way they do same job....stones can never do the job a mister can....
> 
> View attachment 4346632


Now that you mention that, I do remember that I rooted faster with the misters. It was a while ago. I'm not in much of a hurry though


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## Or_Gro (Jun 7, 2019)

JSB99 said:


> Now that you mention that, I do remember that I rooted faster with the misters. It was a while ago. I'm not in much of a hurry though


We all do it our own way, the plant adapts well to anything that gives them acceptable light, temp, rh, and nutes...


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## Atomizer (Jun 8, 2019)

Or_Gro said:


> Yep, you’ve got to install weatherstripping, in the lid, to seal them...basically, they need a gasket...
> 
> View attachment 4346618
> 
> ...


Use an igloo cooler and you wont need to mess with gaskets, they are insulated and lightproof. Some even have a built in drain. I use mist (100psi) in my cloner and run it to waste, less than a gallon a week..Temps are no problem.


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## Or_Gro (Jun 8, 2019)

Atomizer said:


> Use an igloo cooler and you wont need to mess with gaskets, they are insulated and lightproof. Some even have a built in drain. I use mist (100psi) in my cloner and run it to waste, less than a gallon a week..Temps are no problem.


I’m fine with what i have....a rubbermade tote; easy to cut out collar holes; one, 5 minute application of four strips of weatherstripping...no light, no leaks; not a drop of water needs to be added during the 10 day +/- run.

The only possible difference is the temp control. Normally i put it on the concrete floor of my grow room and the water temp stays 66-70f without any need for insulation or chilling. This time i couldn’t, so just hooked up my chiller, spot on temp....

I’ll keep the cooler in mind, if i ever need another one, tho....good idea!


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## DaFreak (Jun 8, 2019)

Or_Gro said:


> Yep, you’ve got to install weatherstripping, in the lid, to seal them...basically, they need a gasket...
> Don’t give up, man...here’s what you need:
> Make your own dome with pvc and saran wrap...


Depending on the box and the lid I like to actually cut the sides off the lid so that it sits down in the tub a few inches and then throw some PVC legs on it. I've done it before and it works, but I don't like any of the boxes I see around and to be honest, by the time you buy the box, the pumps, sprayers and cut the holes how much cheaper are you from a aero-cloner off of Amazon? At this point in my life time is more important to me then $10 difference. 

One of the design points I stole from DCyans on mine was the collar. we didn't use pots, pool thingies or rubber, just the PVC cut into inch long pieces and stuck in. The first fan leaf keeps the plant from falling through but you don't have anything pinching the stem. I am not as careful as the rest of you, and I have broken beautiful clones by removing them from the foam collars in haste, that never happens with the PVC pipes. Another plus is that the air escapes, so heat can escape better in the summer. You'd think water would spray out, but they are just long enough so that it doesn't.


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## Or_Gro (Jun 8, 2019)

DaFreak said:


> Depending on the box and the lid I like to actually cut the sides off the lid so that it sits down in the tub a few inches and then throw some PVC legs on it. I've done it before and it works, but I don't like any of the boxes I see around and to be honest, by the time you buy the box, the pumps, sprayers and cut the holes how much cheaper are you from a aero-cloner off of Amazon? At this point in my life time is more important to me then $10 difference.
> 
> One of the design points I stole from DCyans on mine was the collar. we didn't use pots, pool thingies or rubber, just the PVC cut into inch long pieces and stuck in. The first fan leaf keeps the plant from falling through but you don't have anything pinching the stem. I am not as careful as the rest of you, and I have broken beautiful clones by removing them from the foam collars in haste, that never happens with the PVC pipes. Another plus is that the air escapes, so heat can escape better in the summer. You'd think water would spray out, but they are just long enough so that it doesn't.


a rubbermade tote, a piece of pvc pipe, 4 elbows and 3 tees, a handful of misters, a circle saw bit, a drill bit, a drill, 5-6’ of weather strip, bag of collars, a pump, and 30-40 mins, done deal for a lifetime.

Diff strokes for diff folks...


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## RussellRuss23 (Jun 9, 2019)

Or_Gro said:


> Lotta needless work, if you just control your temps and use hydroguard or gff...


If my temps in my tent is at 79° humidity at 42% and I run my octocloner pump on a timer at 15min on and 15 min off will that keep me in range for success?


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## Or_Gro (Jun 9, 2019)

RussellRuss23 said:


> If my temps in my tent is at 79° humidity at 42% and I run my octocloner pump on a timer at 15min on and 15 min off will that keep me in range for success?


I have no idea on the water temp, you have to test it...if your cloner is on concrete floor it could be fine, but could also be that your water temp is same as air temp, or higher depending on heat from pump. I target 68F, don’t like goin over 72.

But for sure, you have a humidity problem, too low! A humidity dome is a must, but could be you need to bump your ambient with a 1-gal cool mist .



You need to use a chart like this, that tells proper rh-temp combos for each stage of growth:

http://www.just4growers.com/stream/temperature-humidity-and-c02/vapor-pressure-deficit-the-hidden-force-on-your-plants.aspx


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## GreenLegend420 (Jun 12, 2019)

im running 75-78 and get massive growths of pure white roots.

The best way to change temp in an aero cloner is to adjust the timer on the water pump. I was running 30 on 15 off but hitting temps of 78-82. I adjusted to run at 15 on 30 off and now im running 75-78. 

I also chose not to run an airstone for humidity reasons.


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## Koanzap (Sep 24, 2019)

Bought 2 25 station Clone Kings, got about 95% success on the first run, 10% on the second run and they all died on the third run. The problem is bacteria and temperature. The machines have to be thoroughly cleaned after each use, using a dilute bleach solution according to makers instructions. I go one more, now, and add a copper based bactericide. I THROW AWAY the foam rubber plugs after one use. Don't clean those, toss 'em. Put the plastic baskets inside, put the basket retainer top on, cover it all with plastic like a large Ziploc or something, and run for at least 20 minutes. I use only Distilled Water, you can get it for a buck a gallon at most Family Dollar or Dollar general store and you'll need 5 gallons to do the job. Put in almost 2 gallons for cleaning, just enough to get the pump spraying good. After cleaning, dump out the water and pour in the rest of the second gallon to swish around for a rinse. Empty that and then put in the other 3 gallons to start the next batch of clones. 
Part of the problem with my failures when first using the Clone King was temperature. The pump motor GENERATES HEAT. You need to operate the machine in a place that stays around 65 degrees or a little less to keep the water at 70. If you have no harmful bacteria in your water you can go up to 80 degrees or so, but good luck on that. Even with distilled water, the plant stems themselves will have some bad bacteria which will multiply and can kill your clones. Keeping the temp at 70 degrees is huge if you want high success rates, and so is keeping the water free of bad bacteria. Adding a little bactericide to the cloning water doesn't hurt the clones and will add to your success rate.


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## Coloradoclear (Sep 24, 2019)

78 degrees from the submersible aquarium heater, pump pushing water through Red 360 degree EZ-cloner heads (the more the merrier). Should see roots starting in 7 days with 10mL/gallon of Clonex.


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## DaFreak (Sep 24, 2019)

Or_Gro said:


> A humidity dome is a must,


I don't know about that, over 20 years I've literally cloned thousands of plants without ever using a humidity dome with an aero-cloner, completely unneeded in my opinion.


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## Phat J (Nov 8, 2019)

IMHO, I believe nothing matters more than genetics and water "the essential element". I have run a clone king for 10 years. I have cloned hundreds of plants with 100% success. As long as you leave them in and keep changing the water every 5-7 days they WILL root. I have tried many different scenarios. Water chillers, short cycle timers, constant spray, different nutes, no nutes, etc... I am currently cloning northern lights. It took 1 month to get roots 1/2" long on 1 of 6 cuttings. After the 1st 3 weeks I added 2 new cuttings of girl scout cookies, and 2 new cuttings of ak47 into the same clone machine. The girl scout cookies is starting to pop roots after 5 days in the same environment/machine. So everyone that thinks they have the answer, ????? Everyones environment temps, rh, water quality, well water, city water, all factor into it, there is no perfect set up for everyone.


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## Meast21 (Feb 14, 2020)

I use the dewey mister and remove the airstone it comes with and add 2 normal airstones. I take the cutting and dip the bottom half of the cutting into a solution for 20 secs. I then dip the tip into cloning gel and then put it into the dewey mister. The cutting sits about 1.5 inches below the Styrofoam and the entire dewey mister is filled to the top with water and nutes (ppm 650) so the entire bottom part of the cutting is in fast circulating water. I get 99% roots within 10-12 days... I don't have much of a controlled environment bc my basement is warmer in the winter and colder in the summer. Its winter here now and my air temps are about 65 degrees, water temps the same and humidity is about 55%...… Been changing the cloner rez about every 10 days. I'm gonna start changing it every 7 days now to speed up the rooting process, I'm pretty sure it will.


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## Keesje (Feb 20, 2020)

I experimented with many different systems.
In the end they all work.
All the blabla of temperature this, RV that, clonex yes/no... it mostly has to do with the strain as Phat J already mentioned.

In general: Higher temperatures always work better because of metabolism.
Does root rot appear faster with higher temperatures? Yes, some kind of root rot (from the large family of root rots) will appear faster with high temperatures. Some with lower temperatures. 
Is there a huge difference in DO between water of 20 degrees Celsius and 25 degrees Celsius? No.
There is more then enough DO in water of 25 degrees for clones. 
I visit a huge greenhouse where they grow a lot of different herbs, plants, vegetables on hydro. 
A huge bassin. They use clones and seeds.
They don't care about temperature. But they see better results in warmer days. They never ever use chillers.


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## Renfro (Feb 21, 2020)

I will just toss in my two cents worth, late albiet...

Clones definitely seem to root faster with the warmer water, I like it up around 80F until they have roots forming, then I drop it to 70 just to help prevent root rot but I have forgotten to do that and nothing bad happened, actually they made massive roots so I think they definitely grew faster with the warmer temps.


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## Keesje (Feb 21, 2020)

Renfro said:


> .... and nothing bad happened, actually they made massive roots so I think they definitely grew faster with the warmer temps.


Better metabolism.
The warmer it gets, the better everything grows.
Root rot does not have to happen in warmer temperatures.
It can. Some kinds of root rot thrive with higher temps. Others won't.

People think to simplistic about root rot. There are so many forms. Sometimes they even look exactly the same, but the reason you got it is totally difference.
The commercial greenhouse growers have DNA samples taken of their rot.
That way they know which one it is and what specific measures they should take.


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## fragileassassin (Feb 21, 2020)

My cloner runs 82-84. Start in 7-8 days and once they get going they just explode. Havent had rot in it yet.


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## boybelue (Jun 6, 2020)

All you guys running temps in the upper 70s into the 80s, are y’all using oxidizers/sterilizers? I’ve always ran straight tap water but I have problems when my temps get up that high, I don’t really see no gunk but my stems just get soft and sometimes the spray actually washes the epidermis off the stems. Winter time I’m nearly always at 100% but during the summer It drops and I usually go back to conventional trays/domes, but recently I’ve dedicated an air conditioned room just for aero cloning. I’d like to hear from the folks having success at higher temps what there recipes are, water source(distilled,tap), how often you refresh the solution or add additives. TIA


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## fragileassassin (Jun 6, 2020)

boybelue said:


> All you guys running temps in the upper 70s into the 80s, are y’all using oxidizers/sterilizers? I’ve always ran straight tap water but I have problems when my temps get up that high, I don’t really see no gunk but my stems just get soft and sometimes the spray actually washes the epidermis off the stems. Winter time I’m nearly always at 100% but during the summer It drops and I usually go back to conventional trays/domes, but recently I’ve dedicated an air conditioned room just for aero cloning. I’d like to hear from the folks having success at higher temps what there recipes are, water source(distilled,tap), how often you refresh the solution or add additives. TIA


I run tap with dyna-gro KLN and Pro-tekt at recommended rates (rooting hormone and silica) and a little bit of southern ag (1 ml per 10 gal).
Mine stays 78+ left unchanged for months at a time and roots everything I throw in it.


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## Dead_Eye (Dec 21, 2020)

My secret....
Ozone. I inject ozone into my nute tank periodically. When I drain the 27gal tote for a nute change (once per week), I turn on the ozone generator, and I seems to work beautifully. The ozone generator is supposed to be for a jacuzzi but I found a highly efficient use for adding ozone in hydroponics. Ozone allows me to keep my tank at 80 degree all the time. The back draw, I have to supplement chelated nutrients like Fe+ and Mg+ (using Athena-Stack), otherwise works like a charm.


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## boybelue (Dec 25, 2020)

Dead_Eye said:


> My secret....
> Ozone. I inject ozone into my nute tank periodically. When I drain the 27gal tote for a nute change (once per week), I turn on the ozone generator, and I seems to work beautifully. The ozone generator is supposed to be for a jacuzzi but I found a highly efficient use for adding ozone in hydroponics. Ozone allows me to keep my tank at 80 degree all the time. The back draw, I have to supplement chelated nutrients like Fe+ and Mg+ (using Athena-Stack), otherwise works like a charm.


That’s interesting, I’ve never ran an ozone generator. I see the old CAP generators for sale often on e3ay.
I’ve recently been running medgrowers old recipe w/hormex, hypochlorous acid, micro an bloom and while I do believe this speeds up rooting times and helps keep the rez clean my foliage suffers from the bleach I believe. When I ran straight tap rooting was delayed some but the clones would stay green and healthy for an extended time. I’ve had cuts in tap stay green/healthy looking for two to three weeks before yellowing but with the recipes with sterilizers and hormones after a week my foliage is suffering and some to the point the foliage is dead and you pull it out and it has a golf ball sized pearly white root ball. I’m rooting close to 100% but I’m still throwing 10-20% away with this recipe.


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## rogerparker (Jan 2, 2021)

Well, the right temperature is vital for cloning success to be effected! My plants were weak and was being nipped in the bud. I didn't know the reason but finally, the experts of Drilly put some light. Followed their tips to produce better and healthier cuttings ant it worked!


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## Keesje (Jan 3, 2021)

rogerparker said:


> Well, the right temperature is vital for cloning success to be effected! My plants were weak and was being nipped in the bud. I didn't know the reason but finally, the experts of Drilly put some light. Followed their tips to produce better and healthier cuttings ant it worked!


I don't see them mention a temperature on the link you gave.


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## rogerparker (Jan 5, 2021)

Keesje said:


> I don't see them mention a temperature on the link you gave.


I've followed the whole giveaway they revealed. It was not only about the temperature but it also about the whole process. The right temperature is between 68-72°. Thanks for replying.


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## Nizza (Jan 5, 2021)

I used to use a cap of bleach in my 25 gal aero tote, and never had any rot issues. I would fill, wait a day, res change, wait a week or two, and then be done. 
It was clorox bleach. I could have used hydrogen peroxide but I think that would have been too expensive and evaporate out faster

Now i just use a small "oxy cloner " ( bubble cloner ) with that submersible pump w/ venturi and change res every 2-3 days. The pump is on 24/7 so I'd bet that water is 75 or so. I always get a good success and focus on using sterile , sharp , oil-less blades to cut the clones. I still do the wait a day then swap after putting the clones in to get rid of any possible plant matter swirling around from the initial cut.

Temps are kind of important IMO, but treating it like a surgery when cutting (dont use scissors use a sharp sterile razor, and change res frequently) is more important I think.


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## 2com (Jan 8, 2021)

Renfro said:


> I will just toss in my two cents worth, late albiet...
> 
> Clones definitely seem to root faster with the warmer water, I like it up around 80F until they have roots forming, then I drop it to 70 just to help prevent root rot but I have forgotten to do that and nothing bad happened, actually they made massive roots so I think they definitely grew faster with the warmer temps.


I might as well ask my question with yours comment in mind, because I thought you cloned in rapid rooters in a tray w/dome and stuff. But this is a water temperature in a cloning machine (aero, bubble/hydro styles). I was looking for something on rockwool in tray w/dome.

Anyways, my question is more for cloning in plugs/tray/dome of some sort, like Renfro (or anyone else) is; where are you measuring the temp at, to "70*" or "76*" or "80*" and what with?

If you, for example, put water in the bottom of the tray, with some type of "riser" (slotted tray, cell tray, egg crate diffuser, etc.), then plugs in the cells (or have them other wise raised a bit above some water), with a heat mat _connected to a temp controller_ underneath it all, where would you put the sensor? I.e.: where are you aiming to have reach 'x' temperature?

Air temp - sensor hanging in the air inside dome? Water temp - sensor in the water at the bottom tray (making sure it doesn't touch bottom of tray right near the heat mat, or you'll have cold water)? Plug temp - sensor pushed right into a clone plug (or extra, wet, plug with no clone)?
I've tried each...
But much like temp for flowering or vegging, now I'm questioning things since learning about vpd and seeing how big a fact the actual plant temp/leaf surface temp is.
Don't mean to make things complicated or anything, just curious.

(edit: spelling; probably more)


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## Renfro (Jan 8, 2021)

2com said:


> where would you put the sensor?


Between the heat mat and the bottom of the tray.


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## 2com (Jan 8, 2021)

Renfro said:


> Between the heat mat and the bottom of the tray.


Are your plugs directly on the floor of the tray?...And I'm assuming your heat mat is outside of the tray, not on the bottom inside...


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## Renfro (Jan 8, 2021)

2com said:


> Are your plugs directly on the floor of the tray?...And I'm assuming your heat mat is outside of the tray, not on the bottom inside...


Heat mat is outside the tray, the rapid rooters are in the tray insert. It's really not very complicated. the heat mat is optional but I have noted that it speeds up the initial roots. Once you have roots starting ditch the heat mat.


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## 2com (Jan 9, 2021)

Renfro said:


> Heat mat is outside the tray, the rapid rooters are in the tray insert. It's really not very complicated. the heat mat is optional but I have noted that it speeds up the initial roots. Once you have roots starting ditch the heat mat.


I just used way too many words to ask my question, that's all.

It sounds like the rooters are essentially directly on the heating mat, so it makes sense that you have the controller sensor where you have it, so as not to cook'em. This wouldn't make sense might not be ideal/accurate in other arrangements. That's why I asked for specifics.

Thanks bud.
edit.


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## plumsmooth (Aug 28, 2022)

Keesje said:


> I don't see them mention a temperature on the link you gave.


I was just thinking that what a stupid article


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