# Molasses



## irishboy (Jul 23, 2009)

i was looking for more info on molasses? when do you add it veg or flower or both? how much do i mix per gal? and what kind of resaults will i see from using it? what dose it do besides good flavor? and dose it have to be blackstrap molasses or can is be grandmas molasses brand i see at savemart? thanks!


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## irishboy (Jul 23, 2009)

do i still use bud blasters when using molasses? or just stick to basic flowering nutes and dont use any inhansers?


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## Hemlock (Jul 23, 2009)

YOu can use both...Molasses is good during both Veg and Flower a lot of info here on RIU


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## nraged (Jul 23, 2009)

irishboy said:


> i was looking for more info on molasses? when do you add it veg or flower or both? how much do i mix per gal? and what kind of resaults will i see from using it? what dose it do besides good flavor? and dose it have to be blackstrap molasses or can is be grandmas molasses brand i see at savemart? thanks!


 From my reading on the forums most post say generally 1-2 tbsp per gallon. They say you can use grandma's and its works just the same as blackstrap. They also say it does help with making buds more dense. But really it shouldnt affect the final taste but thats my own opinion some here say it will. Anywho maybe these people Im speaking of will drop by to help you out but incase they dont thats pretty much what i have gathered from molasses feedings. Theres a good thread Ill post it once I find it.


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## nraged (Jul 23, 2009)

https://www.rollitup.org/general-marijuana-growing/186821-molasses-every-thing-u-need-5.html Here is one but im still trying to find the other.


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## Tyrannabudz (Jul 23, 2009)

Look at the grocery store too. They have it near the baking goods. Cheap.


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## irishboy (Jul 23, 2009)

Tyrannabudz said:


> Look at the grocery store too. They have it near the baking goods. Cheap.


 i seen it at the grocery store but couldnt find the black strap kind only the grandmas brand and wasnt sure if it was the same so i didnt get it. but thanks for the heads up


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## nraged (Jul 23, 2009)

irishboy said:


> i seen it at the grocery store but couldnt find the black strap kind only the grandmas brand and wasnt sure if it was the same so i didnt get it. but thanks for the heads up


 The article Im trying to find is a very long thread and alot of people use the grandma's infact im using it myself at the moment. Blackstrap is really not sweet. I believe you could obtain this by boiling down the grandmas first but every thread I have read people are buying grandma's and its working fine. Infact one particular comment in this thread a guy did a comparison to grandma's and blackstrap his conclusion was buy wich ever is cheaper cause the results were the same. Damn I wish i could find this thing so i can go to bed.


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## irishboy (Jul 23, 2009)

nraged said:


> The article Im trying to find is a very long thread and alot of people use the grandma's infact im using it myself at the moment. Blackstrap is really not sweet. I believe you could obtain this by boiling down the grandmas first but every thread I have read people are buying grandma's and its working fine. Infact one particular comment in this thread a guy did a comparison to grandma's and blackstrap his conclusion was buy wich ever is cheaper cause the results were the same. Damn I wish i could find this thing so i can go to bed.


its alll good bro, if you need to go to bed dont worry about it just post it when ever you find it. thanks for all of your help. since your using some right now can you tell a differnts on your plants?


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## Tyrannabudz (Jul 28, 2009)

Here is what I use. $4 at King Soopers (Kroger Stores Inc.)


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## weed78138 (Jul 28, 2009)

i use this....







it says all natural


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## BooMeR242 (Jul 29, 2009)

i use the blackstrap unsulpherated molasses and have been for the last 3months of veg organic outdoors and the plants love it and im sure during flowering it will help too. i saw a pic of two nuggs comparred with and without molasses and its %20 size diff. so ya it should help and its cheap why not. its got trace elemnts and small amounts on the NPK ratio


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## worm9119 (Jul 29, 2009)

or instead of doing all this with molasses, you could get an additive like "VEGAN COMPOST TEA" which you can buy and will most likely contain molasses, and in the proper proportions with other essential minerals and nutrients to be added with your normal schedule


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## dbo24242 (Jul 29, 2009)

compost tea is overpriced. pick up some molasses and some sea kelp fertilizer if you're in soil, otherwise you need to introduce some high salt micro beasties to ur hydro.


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## worm9119 (Jul 29, 2009)

dbo24242 said:


> compost tea is overpriced. pick up some molasses and some sea kelp fertilizer if you're in soil, otherwise you need to introduce some high salt micro beasties to ur hydro.



not even compost tea, General Hydroponics has a product SPECIFICALLY for molasses and sugars. check it out on their page

http://www.generalhydroponics.com/genhydro_US/floranectar.html


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## 001 (Jul 29, 2009)

irishboy said:


> i seen it at the grocery store but couldnt find the black strap kind only the grandmas brand and wasnt sure if it was the same so i didnt get it. but thanks for the heads up


you need to go to an holland and barrets


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## BooMeR242 (Jul 29, 2009)

the shit they sell at hydro stores saying its molasses and other nutes is over priced usually so check around i get a liter bottle for only $2.70


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## irishboy (Jul 29, 2009)

the only thing that i dont understand is some say to use 1tbs every feeding and others say 1tsp every feeding. dont know witch on to use. i was think using 1tbs when flowering?


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## RickWhite (Jul 29, 2009)

I'd be interested to know exactely what molasses is supposed to provide for the plant. I know some of the sugar products are designed to increase bud weight as sugar is quite dense.


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## stumps (Jul 29, 2009)

molasses helps the micro bugs in the soil. blackstrap is used because of the way it's refined. search molasses and you see all the reasons it's used.


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## RickWhite (Jul 30, 2009)

stumps said:


> molasses helps the micro bugs in the soil. blackstrap is used because of the way it's refined. search molasses and you see all the reasons it's used.


Oh, I see, so it has no purpose in a hydro setup?


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## tat2d420 (Jul 30, 2009)

Not trying to jack the thread but when is it best to start using molasses? I've heard 2 weeks before harvest but I could use more responses on it.


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## stumps (Jul 30, 2009)

I was flamed for saying molasses has no place in hydro. They say they use it for the carbs. I have never tried it well I did once and it screwed everything up. In soil I use molasses from the start. once a week about a tbls per gallon.


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## dbo24242 (Jul 30, 2009)

stumps said:


> I was flamed for saying molasses has no place in hydro. They say they use it for the carbs. I have never tried it well I did once and it screwed everything up. In soil I use molasses from the start. once a week about a tbls per gallon.


I use molasses in my hydro setup along with a mycorrhizael supplement and found benefit in it. My hydro uses no water pumps which is pinnacle to the molasses in hydro debate. My girls seem to enjoy it




​


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## stumps (Jul 30, 2009)

I'm not much of a hydro guy. I had a bubbler set up. the hydro guys said there was stuff much like molasses that works in hydro apps.


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## dbo24242 (Jul 30, 2009)

indeed, Canna Boost and floranectar are much like molasses and microbeastiez (but cost over 10x as much)


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## oh really??? (Jul 31, 2009)

Am I too late to help?

. . .Not my words but i did the leg work for you. it convinced me to add it the whole time of growing. get ready to read. hope this helps you. 


Sweet Goodness - Magical Molasses

There are a number of different nutrient and fertilizer companies selling a variety of additives billed as carbohydrate booster products for plants. Usually retailing for tens of dollars per gallon if not tens of dollars per liter, these products usually claim to work as a carbohydrate source for plants. A variety of benefits are supposed to be unlocked by the use of these products, including the relief of plant stresses and increases in the rate of nutrient uptake. On the surface it sounds real good, and while these kinds of products almost always base their claims in enough science to sound good, reality doesn&#8217;t always live up to the hype. 

The 3LB are pretty well known for our distrust of nutrient companies like Advanced Nutrients who produce large lines of products (usually with large accompanying price tags) claiming to be a series of &#8220;magic bullets&#8221; - unlocking the keys to growing success for new and experienced growers alike. One member of the three_little_birds grower&#8217;s and breeder&#8217;s collective decided to sample one of these products a while back, intending to give the product a fair trial and then report on the results to the community at Cannabis World. 

Imagine, if you will, Tweetie bird flying off to the local hydroponics store, purchasing a bottle of the wonder product - &#8220;Super Plant Carb!&#8221; (not it&#8217;s real name) - and then dragging it back to the bird&#8217;s nest. With a sense of expectation our lil&#8217; bird opens the lid, hoping to take a peek and a whiff of this new (and expensive) goodie for our wonderful plants. She is greeted with a familiar sweet smell that it takes a moment to place. Then the realization hits her. . . 

Molasses! The &#8220;Super Plant Carb!&#8221; smells just like Blackstrap Molasses. At the thought that she&#8217;s just paid something like $15 for a liter of molasses, our Tweetie bird scowls. Surely she tells herself there must be more to this product than just molasses. So she dips a wing into the sweet juice ever so slightly, and brings it up to have a taste. 

Much the same way a sneaky Sylvester cat is exposed by a little yellow bird saying - &#8220;I thought I saw a puddy tat . . . I did I did see a puddy tat . . . and he&#8217;s standing right there!&#8221; - our Tweetie bird had discovered the essence of this product. It was indeed nothing more than Blackstrap Molasses, a quick taste had conformed for our Tweetie bird that she had wasted her time and effort lugging home a very expensive bottle of plant food additive. Molasses is something we already use for gardening at the Bird&#8217;s Nest. In fact sweeteners like molasses have long been a part of the arsenal of common products used by organic gardeners to bring greater health to their soils and plants.

So please listen to the little yellow bird when she chirps, because our Tweetie bird knows her stuff. The fertilizer companies are like the bumbling Sylvester in many ways, but rather than picturing themselves stuffed with a little bird, they see themselves growing fat with huge profits from the wallets of unsuspecting consumers. Let us assure you it&#8217;s not the vision of yellow feathers floating in front of their stuffed mouths that led these executives in their attempt to &#8220;pounce&#8221; on the plant growing public. 

And the repackaging of molasses as plant food or plant additive is not just limited to the companies selling their products in hydroponic stores. Folks shopping at places like Wal-Mart are just as likely to be taken in by this tactic. In this particular case the offending party is Schultz® Garden Safe All Purpose Liquid Plant Food 3-1-5. This is a relatively inexpensive product that seems appealing to a variety of organic gardeners. Here&#8217;s Shultz own description of their product.

&#8220;Garden Safe Liquid Plant Foods are made from plants in a patented technology that provides plants with essential nutrients for beautiful flowers and foliage and no offensive smell. Plus they improve soils by enhancing natural microbial activity. Great for all vegetables, herbs, flowers, trees, shrubs and houseplants including roses, tomatoes, fruits, and lawns. Derived from completely natural ingredients, Garden Safe All Purpose Liquid Plant Food feeds plants and invigorates soil microbial activity. Made from sugar beet roots! No offensive manure or fish odors.&#8221; 

That sure sounds good, and the three_little_birds will even go as far as to say we agree 100% with all the claims made in that little blurb of ad copy. But here&#8217;s the problem, Shultz isn&#8217;t exactly telling the public that the bottle of &#8220;fertilizer&#8221; they are buying is nothing more than a waste product derived from the production of sugar. In fact, Schultz® Garden Safe 3-1-5 Liquid Plant Food is really and truly nothing more than a form molasses derived from sugar beet processing that is usually used as an animal feed sweetener. If you don&#8217;t believe a band of birds, go ahead and look for yourself at the fine print on a Garden Safe bottle where it says - &#8220;Contains 3.0% Water Soluble Nitrogen, 1.0% Available Phosphate, 5.0% Soluble Potash - derived from molasses.&#8221;

The only problem we see, is that animal feed additives shouldn&#8217;t be retailing for $7.95 a quart, and that&#8217;s the price Shultz is charging for it&#8217;s Garden Safe product. While we don&#8217;t find that quite as offensive as Advanced Nutrients selling their &#8220;CarboLoad&#8221; product for $14.00 a liter, we still know that it&#8217;s terribly overpriced for sugar processing wastes. So, just as our band of birds gave the scoop on poop in our Guano Guide, we&#8217;re now about to give folks the sweet truth about molasses. 

What Is The Story Behind This Sweet Sticky Garden Goodness?

Molasses is a syrupy, thick juice created by the processing of either sugar beets or the sugar cane plant. Depending on the definition used, Sweet Sorghum also qualifies as a molasses, although technically it&#8217;s a thickened syrup more akin to Maple Syrup than to molasses. The grade and type of molasses depends on the maturity of the sugar cane or beet and the method of extraction. The different molasses&#8217; have names like: first molasses, second molasses, unsulphured molasses, sulphured molasses, and blackstrap molasses. For gardeners the sweet syrup can work as a carbohydrate source to feed and stimulate microorganisms. And, because molasses (average NPK 1-0-5) contains potash, sulfur, and many trace minerals, it can serve as a nutritious soil amendment. Molasses is also an excellent chelating agent.

Several grades and types of molasses are produced by sugar cane processing. First the plants are harvested and stripped of their leaves, and then the sugar cane is usually crushed or mashed to extract it&#8217;s sugary juice. Sugar manufacturing begins by boiling cane juice until it reaches the proper consistency, it is then processed to extract sugar. This first boiling and processing produces what is called first molasses, this has the highest sugar content of the molasses because relatively little sugar has been extracted from the juice. Green (unripe) sugar cane that has been treated with sulphur fumes during sugar extraction produces sulphured molasses. The juice of sun-ripened cane which has been clarified and concentrated produces unsulphured molasses. Another boiling and sugar extraction produces second molasses which has a slight bitter tinge to its taste. 

Further rounds of processing and boiling yield dark colored blackstrap molasses, which is the most nutritionally valuable of the various types of molasses. It is commonly used as a sweetner in the manufacture of cattle and other animal feeds, and is even sold as a human health supplement. Any kind of molasses will work to provide benefit for soil and growing plants, but blackstrap molasses is the best choice because it contains the greatest concentration of sulfur, iron and micronutrients from the original cane material. Dry molasses is something different still. It&#8217;s not exactly just dried molasses either, it&#8217;s molasses sprayed on grain residue which acts as a &#8220;carrier&#8221;.

Molasses production is a bit different when it comes to the sugar beet. You might say &#8220;bird&#8217;s know beets&#8221; because one of our flock grew up near Canada&#8217;s &#8220;sugar beet capitol&#8221; in Alberta. Their family worked side by side with migrant workers tending the beet fields. The work consisted of weeding and thinning by hand, culling the thinner and weaker plants to leave behind the best beets. After the growing season and several hard frosts - which increase the sugar content - the beets are harvested by machines, piled on trucks and delivered to their destination. 

At harvest time, a huge pile of beets will begin to build up outside of the sugar factory that will eventually dwarf the factory itself in size. Gradually throughout the winter the pile will diminish as the whole beets are ground into a mash and then cooked. The cooking serves to reduce and clarify the beet mash, releasing huge columns of stinky (but harmless) beet steam into the air. Sometimes, if the air is cold enough, the steam will fall to the ground around the factory as snow!

As we&#8217;ve already learned, in the of sugar cane the consecutive rounds of sugar manufacturing produce first molasses and second molasses. With the humble sugar beet, the intermediate syrups get names like high green and low green, it&#8217;s only the syrup left after the final stage of sugar extraction that is called molasses. After final processing, the leftover sugar beet mash is dried then combined with the thick black colored molasses to serve as fodder for cattle. Sugar beet molasses is also used to sweeten feed for horses, sheep, chickens, etc.

Sugar beet molasses is only considered useful as an animal feed additive because it has fairly high concentrations of many salts including calcium, potassium, oxalate, and chloride. Despite the fact that it&#8217;s not suitable for human consumption and some consider it to be an industrial waste or industrial by-product, molasses produced from sugar beets makes a wonderful plant fertilizer. While humans may reject beet molasses due to the various &#8220;extras&#8221; the sugar beet brings to the table, to our plant&#8217;s it&#8217;s a different story. Sugar beet molasses is usually fairly chemical free as well, at least in our experience. Although farmers generally fertilize their fields in the spring using the various arrays of available fertilizers, weed chemicals (herbicides) are not used for this crop due to the beet plant&#8217;s relatively delicate nature.

There is at least one other type of &#8220;molasses&#8221; we are aware of, and that would be sorghum molasses. It&#8217;s made from a plant known as sweet sorghum or sorghum cane in treatments somewhat similar to sugar beets and/or sugar cane processing. If our understanding is correct, sorghum molasses is more correctly called a thickened syrup rather than a by-product of sugar production. So in our eyes sorghum molasses is probably more like Maple Syrup than a true molasses. 

In the distant past sorghum syrup was a common locally produced sweetener in many areas, but today it is fairly rare speciality product that could get fairly pricey compared to Molasses. Because sorghum molasses is the final product of sweet sorghum processing, and blackstrap and sugar beet molasses are simply waste by-products of sugar manufacturing, it&#8217;s pretty easy to understand the difference in expense between the products. The word from the birds is - there isn&#8217;t any apparent advantage to justify the extra expense of using sorghum molasses as a substitute for blackstrap or sugar beet molasses in the garden. So if you find sorghum molasses, instead of using it in your garden, you&#8217;ll probably want to use it as an alternate sweetener on some biscuits.

That&#8217;s a quick bird&#8217;s eye look at the differences between the various types and grades of molasses and how they are produced. Now it&#8217;s time to get a peek at the why&#8217;s and how&#8217;s of using molasses in gardening. 

Why Molasses?

The reason nutrient manufacturer&#8217;s have &#8220;discovered&#8221; molasses is the simple fact that it&#8217;s a great source of carbohydrates to stimulate the growth of beneficial microorganisms. &#8220;Carbohydrate&#8221; is really just a fancy word for sugar, and molasses is the best sugar for horticultural use. Folks who have read some of our prior essays know that we are big fans of promoting and nourishing soil life, and that we attribute a good portion of our growing success to the attention we pay to building a thriving &#8220;micro-herd&#8221; to work in concert with plant roots to digest and assimilate nutrients. We really do buy into the old organic gardening adage - &#8220;Feed the soil not the plant.&#8221;

Molasses is a good, quick source of energy for the various forms of microbes and soil life in a compost pile or good living soil. As we said earlier, molasses is a carbon source that feeds the beneficial microbes that create greater natural soil fertility. But, if giving a sugar boost was the only goal, there would be lot&#8217;s of alternatives. We could even go with the old Milly Blunt story of using Coke on plants as a child, after all Coke would be a great source of sugar to feed microbes and it also contains phosphoric acid to provide phosphorus for strengthening roots and encouraging blooming. In our eyes though, the primary thing that makes molasses the best sugar for agricultural use is it&#8217;s trace minerals. 

In addition to sugars, molasses contains significant amounts of potash, sulfur, and a variety of micronutrients. Because molasses is derived from plants, and because the manufacturing processes that create it remove mostly sugars, the majority of the mineral nutrients that were contained in the original sugar cane or sugar beet are still present in molasses. This is a critical factor because a balanced supply of mineral nutrients is essential for those &#8220;beneficial beasties&#8221; to survive and thrive. That&#8217;s one of the secrets we&#8217;ve discovered to really successful organic gardening, the micronutrients found in organic amendments like molasses, kelp, and alfalfa were all derived from other plant sources and are quickly and easily available to our soil and plants. This is especially important for the soil &#8220;micro-herd&#8221; of critters who depend on tiny amounts of those trace minerals as catalysts to make the enzymes that create biochemical transformations. That last sentence was our fancy way of saying - it&#8217;s actually the critters in &#8220;live soil&#8221; that break down organic fertilizers and &#8220;feed&#8221; it to our plants.

One final benefit molasses can provide to your garden is it&#8217;s ability to work as a chelating agent. That&#8217;s a scientific way of saying that molasses is one of those &#8220;magical&#8221; substances that can convert some chemical nutrients into a form that&#8217;s easily available for critters and plants. Chelated minerals can be absorbed directly and remain available and stable in the soil. Rather than spend a lot of time and effort explaining the relationships between chelates and micronutrients, we are going to quote one of our favorite sources for explaining soil for scientific laymen. 

&#8220;Micronutrients occur, in cells as well as in soil, as part of large, complex organic molecules in chelated form. The word chelate (pronounced &#8220;KEE-late&#8221 comes from the Greek word for &#8220;claw,&#8221; which indicates how a single nutrient ion is held in the center of the larger molecule. The finely balanced interactions between micronutrients are complex and not fully understood. We do know that balance is crucial; any micronutrient, when present in excessive amounts, will become a poison, and certain poisonous elements, such as chlorine are also essential micronutrients.
For this reason natural, organic sources of micronutrients are the best means of supplying them to the soil; they are present in balanced quantities and not liable to be over applied through error or ignorance. When used in naturally chelated form, excess micronutrients will be locked up and prevented from disrupting soil balance.&#8221;
Excerpted from &#8220;The Soul of Soil&#8221;
by Grace Gershuny and Joe Smillie

That&#8217;s not advertising hype either, no product being sold there. That&#8217;s just the words of a pair of authors who have spent their lives studying, building, and nurturing soils.

Molasses&#8217; ability to act as a chelate explains it&#8217;s presence in organic stimulant products like Earth Juice Catalyst. Chelates are known for their ability to unlock the potential of fertilizers, and some smart biological farmers we know are using chelating agents (like Humic Acid) to allow them to make dramatic cuts in normal levels of fertilizer application. 

One way to observe this reaction at work would be to mix up a solution of one part molasses to nine parts water and then soak an object which is coated with iron rust (like a simple nail for instance) in that solution for two weeks. The chelating action of the molasses will remove the mineral elements of the rust and hold them in that &#8220;claw shaped&#8221; molecule that Grace and Joe just described.

As we&#8217;ve commented on elsewhere, it&#8217;s not always possible to find good information about the fertilizer benefits of some products that aren&#8217;t necessarily produced as plant food. But we&#8217;ve also found that by taking a careful look at nutritional information provided for products like molasses that can be consumed by humans, we can get a pretty decent look at the nutrition we can expect a plant to get as well. 

There are many brand&#8217;s of molasses available, so please do not look at our use of a particular brand as an endorsement, our choice of Brer Rabbit molasses as an example is simply due to our familiarity with the product, one of our Grandmother&#8217;s preferred this brand.

Brer Rabbit Blackstrap Molasses
Nutritional Information and Nutrition Facts: Serving Size: 1Tbsp. (21g). Servings per Container: About 24. Amount Per Serving: Calories - 60;
Percentage Daily Values; Fat - 0g, 0%; Sodium - 65mg. 3%; Potassium - 800 mg. 23%; Total Carbohydrates - 13g, 4%; Sugars - 12g, Protein - 1g, Calcium - 2%; Iron 10%; Magnesium 15%; Not a significant source of calories from fat, sat. fat, cholesterol, fiber, Vitamin A, and Vitamin C. __


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## stumps (Jul 31, 2009)

A bit long winded. But good info.


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## jbo (Aug 1, 2009)

whats great is you can water your plants with it then mix up some homade bbq sauce with the same stuff! versatile! I swear by it begining to end


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## irishboy (Aug 10, 2009)

i just used some molasses on sat. and i can already see a diff. in my buds alot fatter


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## teebeekahuna (Aug 30, 2009)

"Grandma's" works just fine. any kind of UNSULPHURED mollasses will work fine. sulphur encourages fungal growth. just make sure it say unsulphured on label. i use 3 oz per gallon of water, but my plants are outside in teh ground, not pots. experiment and have fun. happy gardening!!!!!


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## WWEntity (Aug 30, 2009)

my first time with it and let me say this. the test plants with it are stinking and thickening up and growing into eachother quite nicely. the non molasses (though rest of regimen same) seem to be taking some time and still a bit scraggly. they will be entering week 4 as of tomorrow pretty much and are outdoor. i am using a bluberry from seed (dj short), and two of her clones for testing. and also a sour diesel that was indoor with a mite problem but has come backquite nicely outside.


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## guerillagrower13 (Aug 30, 2009)

Try the foxfarm peace of mind rock phosphate, works way better than molasses(you'll see). it's like 7-10$ a box


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## turtledurtle (Aug 30, 2009)

guerillagrower13 said:


> Try the foxfarm peace of mind rock phosphate, works way better than molasses(you'll see). it's like 7-10$ a box


 plants dont eat carbs, sugar, mollasses, any one who uses these in their growing medium do not understand the way plants grow. Al b. fuct debunks this myth quite eloquentaly here at RIU...


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## stumps (Aug 31, 2009)

Right but the microbes in the soil use them. And by feeding the micribes so to speak you help the plant.


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## turtledurtle (Aug 31, 2009)

stumps said:


> Right but the microbes in the soil use them. And by feeding the micribes so to speak you help the plant.


 this is nonsense. feed microbes? that is just nonsense, why not feed something the PLANT can actually use! we are growing plants right? there is absolutely no scientifical evidence that pouring mollasses on plant roots improves growth, this is a myth...and it is busted, i dont want to here another word about it


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## stumps (Aug 31, 2009)

You'll hear plenty about molasses hear. 
You should do a little reserch before saying 'absolutely no". Check out the research done by some of the ag schools.


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## teebeekahuna (Aug 31, 2009)

LOL. scroll through my posts and see the difference in before and after using molasses. farmers and nurseries have been doing this for AGES. my mom used mollasses water on her roses and indoor plants. Not a day went by when someone did not comment on how great her flowers looked. we also used it on our veggies when i was a young lad and our veggies won prizes at the county fair. say what you will , but molasses always works for me in outdoor plants planted in soil. i cannot speak for any other growing method as i only grow outdoors in the soil using natural sunlight


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## irishboy (Aug 31, 2009)

i dont care what anyone says i used molassess and my buds blew up the next two days. every time i used it my buds always gotten bigger.


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## klassenkid (Sep 5, 2009)

turtledurtle said:


> this is nonsense. feed microbes? that is just nonsense, why not feed something the PLANT can actually use! we are growing plants right? there is absolutely no scientifical evidence that pouring mollasses on plant roots improves growth, this is a myth...and it is busted, i dont want to here another word about it[/QUOTE
> 
> micro organisms help the roots so helping them helps the plant. Or is the middle man concept to difficult for you? Besides that its also proven to make sweeter buds.


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## Brick Top (Sep 5, 2009)

turtledurtle said:


> *plants dont eat carbs, sugar, mollasses, any one who uses these in their growing medium do not understand the way plants grow*. Al b. fuct debunks this myth quite eloquentaly here at RIU...


 
*&#8220;Molasses and Plant Carbohydrates&#8221; *
*Sugars relating to plant functions for maximum economic *
*production* 


Printed by permission of *Texas Plant & Soil Lab, Inc.*, www.txplant-soillab.com

*ENVIRONMENTAL* FACTORS that affect when and how much sugar to use:

a. How much nitrate is in the soil, and plant sap (petiole test). 
b. Soil moisture conditions. 
c. Sunlight intensity. 
d. Temperature. 
e. Wind 
f. Fruiting stage / load 
g. Growth / vigor [shade lower leaves]

*The right amount at the right time can improve fruiting and produce normal *
*plant growth with less attraction for disease and insects.* 

Needed for healthy plants - fruit production - plant development & 
maturity.

Roots take nutrients from the soil and transport them up the stalk thru the 
petiole (stem) to the leaves where the sunlight aids the production of 
photosynthates (sugars are not the ONLY product of photosynthesis) 
carbohydrates (C, H & O), principally glucose (C6H12O6) and then other sugars 
and photosynthates are formed.

Plant Sugars and other photosynthates are first translocated (*boron is *
*essential to the translocation)* to a fruiting site. 

If fruit is not available, the 
sugars, along with *excess nitrates*, spur the rapid vegetative growth of the plant 
at the expense of creating fruiting bodies (first sink) for the storage of the sugars.

Once the proper balance of environmental factors (heat units, light intensity, soil 
moisture, nutrient balance, etc) are met, the fruiting buds form and then fruit 
formation gets the first crack at the sugar supply.

Any excess sugars are then translocated to the number two sink, (growing 
terminals,) to speed their growth. The left-over sugars, etc. then go to the 
number 3 sink, (the roots,) to aid their growth. Here the new root hairs take 
up nutrients to help continue the cycle of sugar and other photosynthate produc- 
tion, fruiting, growth of terminals and roots.

*ADDED SUGARS CAN AID THE PLANT IN SEVERAL WAYS:* 
- 
*MOLASSES is probably the best outside source of many sugars*, such as table 
sugar, corn syrup and several more complex sugars such as polysaccharides 
found in humus products. 
- Sugar can be added to the soil in irrigation water, drip & pivot being the most 
effective.

** In the soil it can: *

- Feed microbes to stimulate the conversion of nitrates to the more 
efficient NH2 form of N to synthesize protein more directly by the plants.

- The roots can directly absorb some of the sugars into the sap stream to 
supplement the leaf supply to fruit where it is most needed, and ALSO directly 
feed the roots for continued productive growth.

- This ADDED sugar can also help initiate fruiting buds in a steady-slow 
fashion while maintaining normal growth. 

-EXCESSIVE amounts of ADDED SUGARS applied foliarly can shock the 
plant resulting in shortened growth internodes, increased leaf maturity & initiation 
of excess fruiting sites. This can be a short term effect lasting only a few days.

Pollination, soil moisture, nutrient balance and sufficiency as well as 
adequate light for photosynthate production decide how much of the 
induced fruit can mature. 

http://www.pnwgpg.com/homepage_000014.htm


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## newb19547 (Sep 5, 2009)

Dam you and your long informative posts Brick!!!!, lol j/k. Nice man


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## zorkan (Sep 5, 2009)

Brick Top said:


> *&#8220;Molasses and Plant Carbohydrates&#8221; *
> *Sugars relating to plant functions for maximum economic *
> *production*
> 
> ...


. 


molassas aint gona work
http://www.thisdoesntmeananything.com


are we all suppost to believe it now that you linked a webpage to it?


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## newb19547 (Sep 5, 2009)

zorkan said:


> .
> 
> 
> molassas aint gona work
> ...



Sorry bro but your wrong. I and many others use molasses with great effects. Simply put, it DOES work


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## zorkan (Sep 5, 2009)

newb19547 said:


> Sorry bro but your wrong. I and many others use molasses with great effects.


 
tried one plant with and one without same grow next to each other same everything else.....?


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## newb19547 (Sep 5, 2009)

zorkan said:


> tried one plant with and one without same grow next to each other same everything else.....?



I was actually gonna edit my post and say if you've had troubles with it either you weren't using enough or if it damaged them then you use too much. Just because you don't notice anything doesn't mean it doesn't work. And also, were the two plants you tested on clones of the same mother? That's the only way it would be a legitimate test.


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## The Warlord (Sep 5, 2009)

zorkan said:


> .
> 
> 
> molassas aint gona work
> ...


 
not only is all that true but molasses has a n-p-k value of 1-0-5 on average so it's fertilizer as well as being good for benificial micro organisms. 

You don't know what you are talking about. Do some research. the value of molasses as a fertilizer and as a soil addative is a documented scientific fact.


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## zorkan (Sep 5, 2009)

ok ,, how much per gallon


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## The Warlord (Sep 5, 2009)

zorkan said:


> ok ,, how much per gallon


one tablespoon per gallon of water is the usual dose. Most beneficial in flowering but can be used throuout the entire grow.


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## Brick Top (Sep 5, 2009)

zorkan said:


> .
> 
> 
> molassas aint gona work
> ...


 

Lets compare sources of information. Mine was the *Texas Plant & Soil Lab, Inc. *
*&#12288;*
When I tried to follow your link the page was not found, the information you posted was not found. What scientific institute dedicated to plants and plant growth provided the information you chose to believe? 

Keep in mind that my link works and the information I posted can be found while yours evidently cannot do the same. 
&#12288;
I am a part owner in a family owned pot-in-pot nursery, trees and bushes, not plants or kids. 

It now covers between roughly 15 and 17 acres of land. 

Four members of my family have degrees in botany and they all say molasses helps plant growth. 

Add to that the fact that I have 37 years of experience in growing pot.
&#12288;
What amount of personal experience and ready access to some number of degreed botanists can you counter with ... especially since your link let you down?


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## newb19547 (Sep 5, 2009)

I've also heard up to 2 tablespoons would be alright....though I've never gone above 1


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## newb19547 (Sep 5, 2009)

Brick Top said:


> Let&#8217;s compare sources of information. Mine was the *Texas Plant & Soil Lab, Inc. *
> *&#12288;*
> When I tried to follow your link the page was not found, the information you posted was not found. What scientific institute dedicated to plants and plant growth provided the information you chose to believe?
> 
> ...



I think his link was supposed to be a joke......read it. "this doesn't mean anything.com". Unless that is a real site...........


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## Brick Top (Sep 5, 2009)

newb19547 said:


> I think his link was supposed to be a joke......read it. "this doesn't mean anything.com". Unless that is a real site...........


 
I didnt bother to read the useless, evidently fake, link, I just clicked on it to see what might be found.
&#12288;
When it comes to someone believing proven scientific facts or not, well frankly Scarlet, I dont give a damn if they do or do not. 
&#12288;
If they would rather believe opinions and inaccurate conclusions based on connecting the wrong dots resulting in incorrect cause and effect beliefs and total inaccuracies and half-truths and misinformation and hearsay claims and myths and urban legends and old hippie folklore and by doing so lose out that is their decision to make. 
&#12288;
Myself I believe proven scientific facts.


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## newb19547 (Sep 5, 2009)

Hear Hear!


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## slowroll (Oct 27, 2009)

Has anyone had problems with foam? i have been adding the same nutes for 5 weeks now switched to 12/12 sunday and added molassas to my bubbleponics system (boiled it and let it cool down) by sunday night my tubs were filled with foam!!?? any suggestions?


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## stumps (Oct 27, 2009)

Don't use it with a bubbler.


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## Manbeta (Feb 21, 2021)

stumps said:


> Don't use it with a bubbler.


yeah man use papers next time.


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## Mosesgreenthumb (Feb 21, 2021)

Its amazing the plants seem to absorb the sugars without any issues. I use it all the way through amounts vary.


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