# Organic Feeding 101.



## nick17gar (Feb 12, 2012)

Organic feeding provides great results. A good organic grow starts with the soil. (look at subcool's section on that. he knows soil.) Im going to go over strictly what to do once the plant is in the dirt, and you still need to feed them something. Feeding the plants the right stuff is key to successful grows, and knowing what to feed and when, is needed for every grower.

If your plant has some sort of issue, theres threads on that https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/488004-guide-nutrient-deficiency-toxicity.html . this thread is gonna cover what do to AFTER you notice a deficiency, or just to keep a healthy garden. this will be using only organic nutrients. Ive purchased bottles of guano, and molasses and wondered... what now? well this is what now.

**note: most of these teas/mixtures involve some mixing, but a lot of wait time. this is to fully let the properties of the substance combine with the water, and for microbial activity to start. Do not skip the waiting**

*Vegetative Teas:*

Worm humus:
Origin:this mix is produced from the excrement of worms. they ingest organic material and you end up with this. The best quality of worm humus is going to be from the Californian worms.
Provides: water soluble, and boosts microbes in the soil
Preparation: In 5 liters of water, add in 400gr (about 2 cups) and let it sit for 2 days. stirring every so often to keep it well mixed and the water somewhat oxygenated.
Applicationuring the watering, mixing 1 part of poo-juice with 3 parts water. you can add this in weekly.

Blood Meal:
Origin: After removing and drying blood from animals(usually in a slaughterhouse), it is ground up into a fine powder.
Provides about 12-15%N, 1.2%P, and 1%k
Preparation: in a container, add 1 part blood meal to 9 parts water. cover. over 1 week, open to burp the mix, and stir. after, filter with coffee strainer.
Application: Applying usually only when N deficiency is noted, add to water to create a 10%-25% strength solution.

Gypsum
Origin: CaSO4. Its a rock basically, you can find it naturally outdoors, or (probably easier) at a local plant shop.
Provides: Activates healthy microbial activity. Corrects salinity (toxic salt levels). Provides sulfur, calcium and potassium. Regulates pH, and most importantly, helps in the absorption of N.
Preparation: add 1 pound of gypsum powder (use a mortar and pistil if its too coarse) to the inside of a nylon stocking, or other fine screen material. place this inside a container with 5L of water. Cover. leave for 1-2 weeks, opening the container to stir briskly every few days. 
Application: Add it in with the water when pH is unstable, max 10% strength (so dilute it!). dilute it to 5% if mixing it with a N tea, and can be used weekly.

Fishmeal
Origin: obtained from dried, ground fish.
Provides: 8%N, 7%P, trace elements.
Preparation: mix 10% of this powder with 90% water in a container. leave it a week covered, and opening it to burp out the gas (dont breathe it in, smells). Filter at the end of the week.
Application: Dilute the mix, 1part fishgoop with 10 parts water. add in weekly with the feedings, or when a N/P deficiency is noted.

Bat Guano
Origin: decomposed bat poo. preferably pasteurized (since bats can and do carry disease, like rabies!)
Provides: High in N, but also contains P and trace elements. Fresher guano has higher N rating
Preparation: 2 tablespoons of bat poo in 4 -5 liters of water. let sit for 1 week
Application: mix the finished poo water, 1 part to 3 parts water. use every 2 weeks.

*Mixed Teas:* This is ok for veg + flowering.

Compost Tea (one of my favorites, as i use ground up male plants, or the sticks/stems/fan leaves of the harvested females for this)
Origin: The easiest to come across commercially, or to make at home. this is used worldwide with a variety of ingredients.
Provides: A big boost of microorganisms, helps feed the plants, and boosts a plant's immune system. NPK ratios vary depending the type of compost made.
Preparation: Place a bunch of dead plants in a nylon stocking or screen, put that inside a bucket with about 15L of water, adding water as it evaporates (which means leave it uncovered). after 2 weeks, dump the inside of the bag/screen/stocking back with the rest of your compost pile outside or throw it away or whatever. 
Application: If you want to foliar feed this, filter it well, then 1:8 ratio of tea to water. otherwise, just add it in when watering, at a 1:5 ratio. use it every 2 weeks.

Alfalfa Tea. (can also be used during flowering)
Origin: your rabbit's food. this is ground up alfalfa, leaves, stems.
Provides: 2.5%n, 5%p, and 2%k.
Preparation: grabbing a nylon sock and filling with 1 part of the alfalfa, setting it into a bucket with 10 parts water. leave it for a week to create a strong tea.
Application: use every 2 weeks, diluted 1part tea with 10 parts water.

Manures
Origin: the business end of various animals. 
Provides: This really depends on what the animal ate, and what the animal is. Rough estimates are:Cows: .6%N-.3%P-.3%K
horse: .6%N-.6%P-.4%k
Rabbit: .5%N-1.2%P-.5%K
Sheep: .8%N-.5%P-.4%K
Pigs: .6%N-.6%P-.4%K​Preparation: 1 part crap to 10 parts water, in a bucket. 2 weeks, stirring periodically. (again, this is better for the nylon stockings, otherwise your gonna have to filter it - yuck)
Application: 1 part poop water to 1 part water. can be used every 2 weeks.

Fruit tea, with or without Molasses.
Origin: made with fermenting fruits. its recommended to add molasses for flowering.
Provides: Rich in NPK, but also contains calcium and some other trace elements. Very rich in microbial activity. Using molasses adds a large amounts of carbs and can contribute to fungus (in high heat grows)
Preparation: Cut fruits into small pieces. place in a container and cover them with molasses( OR cut up fruits, place into a ziploc bag with NO molasses or air) Let it sit for 2 weeks, opening it periodically to let out gases. filter.
Application: 1 tablespoon of fruit rot juice (ew) to 1 liter of water. use it every 10 days. 

*Flowering Teas:*

Banana Peel Tea.
Origin: Bananas. Cheap to make. eat the banana, use the peels.
Provides: Strong Potassium Boost. ideal for flowering. 
Preparation: after selecting 4 bananas, and eating the insides, place the 4 peels into a pot, with 4 cups of water (1L). You can also add in 2 tablespoons of molasses. Bring to a boil. let boil for 5 minutes. remove the peels. let cool. place in jars for storage.
Application: mix this 1 part banana goop to 2 parts water. use every 2 weeks.

Sea Weed
Origin: algae or kelp, dried, ground into a powder.
Provides: Lots of K, and trace elements, aminoacids, vitamins, hormones.
Preparation: 100grams of algae powder + 2Liters of water, let sit overnight.
Application: mix 1 part of sea weed juice to 3 parts water, and apply during waterings. can be used every watering.

Paper Ash tea.
Origin: This powder is obtained from burned paper. make sure the paper has no pigments (inks), glues, adhesives, or plastic covering. just plain paper. the cheaper the stuff, the better.
Provides: 5% P and 2% K
Preparation: Burn the paper fully. Ground up the ash. 100g of ash mixed with 2 L of water. let sit 10 days, then filter.
Application: use every 15 days, mixed 1 part ash juice to 2 parts water.

Bonemeal
Origin: Bones, crushed, ground up.
Provides: some N (3%?) and around 7% of P. high in calcium
Preparation: cook in a pot for 10 minutes, 200grams of bonemeal with 6 liters of water, and 1/2 cup of baking soda. let cool, then remove any grease that may have formed at the top. filter the rest of the mix.
Application: Use 1 part bone water to 3 parts water. use it at the start of the 12/12 cycle, or the start of flowering. will last the entire grow.



if you guys have other recipes, post them on here!


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## Rising Moon (Feb 13, 2012)

Great list, just a few things I would add...

A couple of major tea herbs have been left out of this list that should definitely be included.

Comfrey - Major source of NPK as well as other micro nutrients and minerals mined from the Earth's subsoil.

Stinging Nettle - Another great balanced source of NPK, large amounts of Calcium and other minerals and vitamin C, used in Bio-Dynamic farming to give intelligence to the soil.

"Stinging nettle stimulates soil health, providing plants with the individual nutrition components needed. It enlivens the earth and helps to release iron into the soil. Helps to improve the potency of plants by increasing their sensitivity and individualizing them to their surroundings. Improves the nutritive qualities of plants. Mars forces are said to manifest in stinging nettle."

Chamomile - Full of minerals and other plant stimulating compounds, chamomile teas can boost the plants own immunity to disease or pests, and help balance and regulate plant growth.

Valerian - Source of minerals and phosphorus.

"Valerian helps to concentrate phosphorous in the plant and this in turn aids with the plants capacity to attract light in the photosynthesis process. It stimulates the phosphate activating bacteria in the soil. Valerian deals with the forces from Saturn."

Dandelion (flowers and leaves) - NPK, minerals, immune boosting properties, used in Bio-Dynamic farming to help plants "tune in" the the environment and draw nutrients or needed minerals where they are needed.

"Dandelion gives the soil a living, ethereal quality with the ability to supply the substances a plant needs. It increases a plants sensitivity and helps it to attract beneficial elements from a wider area. Dandelion works strongly with silica and potassium and, via silica, draws in forces from the outer planets, particularly Jupiter."

Yarrow - Contains potassium, selenium and sulfur, used in Bio-Dynamic farming to "bring light forces into the soil via its connection with sulfur, helping spirit to penetrate matter and enables it to attract trace elements. Important for reproduction and growth. Venus forces are said to manifest in yarrow."

White Oak Bark - Combats disease, used in Bio-Dynamic farming to "work very strongly with calcium and is an excellent remedy for plant diseases including fungus. It helps to restore balance with the ether body of the plant and control rampant growth. Moon forces become active in the plant in a healthy manner with oak bark. Extended use of the oak bark will help to raise the ph of the soil without the need to add lime."

All text in "quotes" was taken from http://cityfoodgrowers.com.au/biody_prep.php?phpMyAdmin=Z,IJJ48cThaTKeB7RCzlHYx-gCf

All of these herbal teas can be brewed a number of ways, and the Bio-Dynamic people have their own ways of doing each one, however, based on my experience and intuition, whether you simply throw the stuff in a bucket for 2 weeks, use a small air stone and molasses to brew up some microbes, or bio-ferment and bury them in the earth according to the celestial movements... Anyway you use them, they will help. 

Personally, I brew the herbs up altogether, individually or in mixes, in cheese cloth, usually with a bit of home made worm castings, in PH neutral filtered water. I add a couple tablespoons of raw honey and bubble them with an air stone for 3 days.
(I have gone up to 5 days, but the thick head of bacterial foam seems to peak around 3 days)
I use it 12:1 or 15:1. 

Also, if you do not grow your own herbs (very easy and beautiful to do in any yard, most being perennials) make sure you buy organically grown herbs, the microbes your trying to grow do not like chemicals (pesticides, fungicides and tap water)

Thanks for reading!


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## dante76 (Feb 14, 2012)

nick17gar - interesting recipes you've got here...a couple of questions.

For your guano tea, where can you find pasturized poo? Sunleaves guanos are not pasturized (I think) but are the easiest to get...maybe i'll check a local nursery. I was considering using a liquid guano becuase i'd rather work with something less toxic...that powder can fly anywhere (eyes, lungs)

For your bone meal tea, what good does the baking soda do? How do you cook it? by boiling like your other recipes?

for those teas you say to sit for a week...is it best to store them in a cool, dark place?


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## Mister Sister (Feb 15, 2012)

This is a great list.

In addition to comfrey, nettles, and dandelions, there are a few other very beneficial and very common plants that I'm sure could be used in the same or similar way.

Sugar Maple (the kind people use for sap) is very common, and is an excellent dynamic accumulator in a perennial setting. Prepare the leaves just like you would with comfrey, etc.

Shagbark Hickory - another great dynamic accumulator. These are easy to spot once you know what they look like - the bark looks like the name sounds - Shaggy and flaky. Again, use the leaves to make a great compost tea.

Russian Olives are thought to fix nitrogen in soil, so I would imagine you could make a potent tea using the same guidelines. I would personally use the leaves and twigs both for this one. This is actually a fairly large 'invasive' shrub (with edible berries) that is spreading across certain states like wildfire. The government planted these along roadsides in Michigan and can be found almost anywhere in the state, and I'm sure they can be found in many others.

The best thing about all 3 of these plants is that they are coppicing, meaning that they love being cut down so that they can grow back again and again and again.

Go google image these trees and thank the universe for providing such awesome abundance in such a safe and pure form.

Peace and love

MS


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## mccumcumber (Feb 15, 2012)

Very informative and well written guide! Great contribution.


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## latestsaint (Feb 16, 2012)

+1 rep brother... this is some good info


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## chicago9 (Feb 18, 2012)

any mileage in using airstone/ pumps to boost oxygen for the little bugs? anaerobes tend to stink things up


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## dante76 (Feb 18, 2012)

what do you mean by mileage? you can use airstones or just tubing from the airpump to get aeration.


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## Rising Moon (Feb 19, 2012)

I run two airstones in my bucket.

They speed things up and help me cultivate "sweet" microbes in my brews, as opposed to letting it putrefy and cultivating "sour" microbes, to put it simply.


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## nick17gar (Feb 20, 2012)

dante76 said:


> nick17gar - interesting recipes you've got here...a couple of questions.
> 
> For your guano tea, where can you find pasturized poo? Sunleaves guanos are not pasturized (I think) but are the easiest to get...maybe i'll check a local nursery. I was considering using a liquid guano becuase i'd rather work with something less toxic...that powder can fly anywhere (eyes, lungs)
> 
> ...


when i bought guano, it was in a semi-liquid form, but yea, when using anything dusty or powdery, i try to use gloves/mask. especially vermiculite, that crap is very dusty and irritates the hell outa my lungs. 

for the bone meal tea, the baking soda was in the original recipe i recieved, id guess its to help break it down more? ill contact the guy and try to find out why they use it. You do cook it, by boiling it... but that and the banana recipe i think are the only 2 you would boil. 

and yea sit for a week or so, i think cool and dark is good. you dont want too cold/hot due to the microbes in the teas, you want those to thrive.


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## nick17gar (Feb 20, 2012)

Rising Moon said:


> I run two airstones in my bucket.
> 
> They speed things up and help me cultivate "sweet" microbes in my brews, as opposed to letting it putrefy and cultivating "sour" microbes, to put it simply.



yea airstones are great for the teas that have to sit there and get stronger (the microbes have to multiply)
they will not work for the teas youve boiled (good stuff came out of whatever was boiled, no microbes, just elements like potassium - bananas or calcium - bone meal)


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## hyphae (Apr 6, 2012)

dante76 said:


> what do you mean by mileage? you can use airstones or just tubing from the airpump to get aeration.


Sunleaves Guanos are all pastuerized fyi


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## huckelberrymadness (Apr 9, 2012)

hey sup guys i was just wondering if any one has used sunleaves bat guano 1-10-0.2 npk and molasses for flowering if so what where your results?


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## huckelberrymadness (Apr 9, 2012)

hey sup guys i was just wondering if anybody has used sunleaves bat guano npk 1-10-0.2 and molasses for the flowering stage if so did you get good results?


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## georgyboy (Apr 17, 2012)

question about the original post. all the directions mention letting the mixes sit for 1-2 weeks. what about anaerobic activity. are any beneficial fungus or bacteria able to survive in these juices, or are these solely for fertilization purposes.


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## ThizzelleMarley89 (Apr 19, 2012)

i havent started my grown yet.going to start in june but still want to learn more well i wait.jus got done reading your thread good stuff bro.ill will come back to your thread and ask some question on it


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## sourskunkd (May 2, 2012)

I will def try the banana tea for sure. Good looks


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## Islam (May 4, 2012)

Very informative!! Thanks a lot! Now I don't have to waste 70 dollars on nutes and It's organic!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bat guano is a hilarious name XD


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## dante76 (May 4, 2012)

huckelberrymadness said:


> hey sup guys i was just wondering if anybody has used sunleaves bat guano npk 1-10-0.2 and molasses for the flowering stage if so did you get good results?


i used this as an amendment to my base soil (Super Cools Super Soil Recipe) and 1/2 strength guano tea (guano soaking in water for 2 days).

Results were great! Right now most of my buds are curing but from some i've tested out tasted/smoked very smooth and i didn't have to flush either...another benefit to growing organic.


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## Nander (May 4, 2012)

Great info. I am definitely getting a nice air-stone. I grow veggies outdoors, and medicine indoors. I bet my tomatoes, peppers, and pumpkins will really appreciate the beneficial microbes


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## nick17gar (May 15, 2012)

sourskunkd said:


> I will def try the banana tea for sure. Good looks


ive done the banana tea a few times now, adding in about a tablespoon of molasses per liter...

and its a huge difference. plus you get to eat the bananas.... in cereal... or...banana splits...


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## nick17gar (May 15, 2012)

georgyboy said:


> question about the original post. all the directions mention letting the mixes sit for 1-2 weeks. what about anaerobic activity. are any beneficial fungus or bacteria able to survive in these juices, or are these solely for fertilization purposes.



thats the entire point of letting it sit. some of the recipes your boiling it with water, extracting the elements, and there ya go. on others, like the rotten fruits one, your waiting til you get that bacteria growing, then giving it 2 weeks to multiply, and get richer. these microbes eat stuff in your dirt and give off CO2, as well as other nutrients. its awesome for the plants. 

either way, the sugars, carbs, co2, and other elements just speed up or boost the chemical reactions already taking place with the plant, and you end up with bigger plants.


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## nick17gar (May 15, 2012)

Nander said:


> Great info. I am definitely getting a nice air-stone. I grow veggies outdoors, and medicine indoors. I bet my tomatoes, peppers, and pumpkins will really appreciate the beneficial microbes


yup. i use it on my garden too, peppers, spices. its great. and almost free.


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## seamore green (May 16, 2012)

Hey nick good post, i have a question about your banana tea. It says 4 peels, is that 4 bananas or a single banana


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## blaz'n420 (May 19, 2012)

Got some girls about a week into flower, gonna try the banana tea and it will add to my natural sugar additive during my in between feeding water.


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## Kb's seeds (May 19, 2012)

nick17gar said:


> Organic feeding provides great results. A good organic grow starts with the soil. (look at subcool's section on that. he knows soil.) Im going to go over strictly what to do once the plant is in the dirt, and you still need to feed them something. Feeding the plants the right stuff is key to successful grows, and knowing what to feed and when, is needed for every grower.
> 
> If your plant has some sort of issue, theres threads on that https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/488004-guide-nutrient-deficiency-toxicity.html . this thread is gonna cover what do to AFTER you notice a deficiency, or just to keep a healthy garden. this will be using only organic nutrients. Ive purchased bottles of guano, and molasses and wondered... what now? well this is what now.
> 
> ...




i got a easy tea recipe sourced from materials u can find at almost any hydro store, its for brewing in a 5gal container and can be diluted with filtered water after brewing
malibu's compost bu's brews compost tea bags - 2 tea bags 
bountea organic's humisoil - 1/2 cup
fresh worm castings - 1/2 cup
un-sulphured molasses - 2 table spoons

the bu's brew compost tea bags has stinging nettle, chamomile, valerian, dandelion, yarrow, oak bark, compost dairy cow shit and prolly something else but i forget

brew times - best brewed for atleast 12hrs


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## keefbox420 (May 19, 2012)

veg garden loves the tea along with the budmy magical tea filtered for the most part and ready to use...
chicken poo in a sock
diamond black
roots organic
great white 
molasses
bubbled for 2 weeks


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## PakaloloHui (May 19, 2012)

keefbox420 said:


> View attachment 2175980veg garden loves the tea along with the budView attachment 2175981my magical tea filtered for the most part and ready to use...
> chicken poo in a sock
> diamond black
> roots organic
> ...


2 weeks??? How did your tea smell and did you keep adding food for the microbes to keep them fed?


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## keefbox420 (May 20, 2012)

PakaloloHui said:


> 2 weeks??? How did your tea smell and did you keep adding food for the microbes to keep them fed?


it smelled nice and sweet lol sweet and funky yes i fed them thats what the molasses is for as long as is is foaming the microbes have food i have used many diff
recipes for the teas and some i let sit for longer......iv used fish fruit manure wood paper compost all kinds of teas if you know what you are doing there is no need to even buy 
fert from the store


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## keefbox420 (May 20, 2012)

the only reason this one was sitting for so long is i didnt need as much as i thought so i just let it bubble till i need it feeding the microbes as needed


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## foreverflyhi (May 31, 2012)

the longest i brew a tea was about a week, and yup mollasses is what keeps it alive for the most part, the only problem with that is that i think its a waste of mollasses and maybe can potientally harm your plants, mollasses is pure suar and trust me too much sugar for anything or anyone is not always good, LESS IS BETTER is where im trying to get at lol.

any wayz do majority of people dillute your teas or do u ever make light or even strong tea and feed directly in the plant?


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## nick17gar (May 31, 2012)

foreverflyhi said:


> the longest i brew a tea was about a week, and yup mollasses is what keeps it alive for the most part, the only problem with that is that i think its a waste of mollasses and maybe can potientally harm your plants, mollasses is pure suar and trust me too much sugar for anything or anyone is not always good, LESS IS BETTER is where im trying to get at lol.
> 
> any wayz do majority of people dillute your teas or do u ever make light or even strong tea and feed directly in the plant?


well the molasses in the teas are mainly for carbs and sugar so the bacteria reproduce faster, atleast from what i gather.

i try to dilute everything more then recommended. the only one i go heavy with at this point is the banana tea (4 banana peels boiled with 1liter water, strained and another liter added in...), i add a tablespoon molasses to it, and put it in the soil about a week after i switch them to 12/12. ive noticed with faster budding plants, theres still a little banana taste added in, but its not much really, and a small price to pay to make sure your not lacking potassium pretty much the entire flower phase (i still feed them nutes, but its a nice boost, and damn near free)

Note: the only reason thats the one i go heavy with is becuase ive tried it a lot, for every plant ive flowered over the past year+, the others i havent done more than once or twice, just gathering the ingrediants is a pain, compared to buying bananas.

the compost one i love as well. i compost leaves, stems and clippings from prior plants, i put the compost in with the soil in the pots *closer to the bottom*, and any leaves that fall off during the grow, or i trim off for ventilation purposes i spread around on top of the soil, works like mulch to lower the soil temp so i water less, and provides more free nutes


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## WyoGrow (Jun 8, 2012)

For a really good fungus promoting tea try adding to your 5gal tea brew: 2-3tbsp of wheat or oat flour and a 1tbsp of rock dust.

I brew 50 gallons at a whack and water my entire garden with a mild basic tea every week. 2-4 pound beefsteak tomatoes don't lie about it's effectiveness. I do smaller batches of specialty tea's as needed. But mostly just a 5gal bucket of finished compost, three hand fulls of bone meal, 2 hand fulls of blood meal, 2 hand fulls of rock dust, 2 hand fulls of oatmeal, 2 hand fulls of rabbit feed (alfalfa pellets), 2 cups wood ash from my stove (I save all the ash from winter), 1 cup fish emulsion, 1 cup kelp extract, 1 cup epsom salt, 1/2 cup veggie oil to keep it from foaming all over the place and half a jar of molasses. Bubble the snot out of it for 5-6 days and use all of it in my big ass garden. Everything loves it. When my 75g tank is empty I shovel out the gunk in the bottom and toss it in my compost tumbler. Waste nothing!!!!

I dilute it by 50% with rain water for watering my garden. For a foliar feed I filter 4 gallons through a tee shirt and a 1 can of flat bargian brand pop and load it into my pump sprayer and go to town.....


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## malignant (Jun 9, 2012)

bloodmeal in your tea?


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## Growop101 (Jun 18, 2012)

at nick17gar....
So for the compost tea you can use any dead vegetation ? also how long should it sit in the water , also i wasnt able to understand the ratio for application..

And for the compost tea and the banana tea do you need a bubler in the water? or can you just have it sitting. 
Can the tea be sitting outside in the open? no lid? 
Sorry for all the questions i jus never maade a tea before and wana do this right.


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## Growop101 (Jun 18, 2012)

what would a 1-5 ratio for watering be like?


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## nick17gar (Jun 23, 2012)

Growop101 said:


> what would a 1-5 ratio for watering be like?


ummm... 1 part tea(solute), 5 parts water(solvent) ...?


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## nick17gar (Jun 23, 2012)

Growop101 said:


> at nick17gar....
> So for the compost tea you can use any dead vegetation ? also how long should it sit in the water , also i wasnt able to understand the ratio for application..
> 
> And for the compost tea and the banana tea do you need a bubler in the water? or can you just have it sitting.
> ...


any dead vegetation. i prefer to use dead pot plants, this way i know the plants were similar in terms of nutrient balances, and also i know my waste products arent leaving the property (security first!)
*

Preparation: Place a bunch of dead plants in a nylon stocking or screen, put that inside a bucket with about 15L of water, adding water as it evaporates (which means leave it uncovered). after 2 weeks, dump the inside of the bag/screen/stocking back with the rest of your compost pile outside or throw it away or whatever.​




*they sit in water for 2 weeks. no lid. 

then it says 1 to 5 ratio. so check how much tea ya have, if its close to 1 liter, then you add 5 liters of water, ending up with 6L of tea (thats about 17% strength, i dunno, little less then 20%)

then add to the plants. if you want to foliar feed it (spray it on the leaves) then dilute it more.


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## nick17gar (Jun 23, 2012)

malignant said:


> bloodmeal in your tea?


 i usually just add a bit to dirt when i mix it up and call it a day. i could see this coming in handy if you just bought some and arent ´making fresh dirt´any time soon, and want to add some bloodmeal to whats already growing.


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## Daemonn789 (Jun 24, 2012)

Can any shed light on how long teas/nute mixes can sit out for? Aerated and unaerated? I ask because sometimes I've ended up making too much and it will sit/bubble for 2-3 days between use. Instead of dumping anything out, I'd like to just reuse it.


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## blueJ (Jun 25, 2012)

No experience doing it, but i always read people simply adding more molasses to feed the herd as long as it is still being aerated. Personally, i use within 24 to 36 hours (plenty frothy) and any leftovers goes into the regular house plants or tossed in the yard.


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## atidd11 (Jun 26, 2012)

Growop101 said:


> what would a 1-5 ratio for watering be like?


Wow........


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## WyoGrow (Jun 30, 2012)

*
"And for the compost tea and the banana tea do you need a bubler in the water?"

*Addingaeration will help the tea mature faster as most aerobic organisms have a higher metabolic rate than anaerobic organisms do. Anaerobic bacteria also created nasty compounds such as hydrogen sulfide, which is lethal in small concentrations. At 1-10ppm it can irritate the mucus membranes. At 10-50ppm it can cause dizziness, nausea, headache, vomiting and upper respiratory irritation. At a concentration of 1000ppm it is instantly lethal in one breath. Nasty stuff.... and it's highly flammable. Now, scary shit aside. Most of the activity at the root level is aerobic anyway. So why not introduce aerobic bacteria and their metabolic products to your roots via tea??? Besides.... letting your tea go anaerobic smell like shit.


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## greennewfie (Jul 21, 2012)

awesome thread man my kinda growing 
organic all the way!!!


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## nick17gar (Jul 21, 2012)

blueJ said:


> No experience doing it, but i always read people simply adding more molasses to feed the herd as long as it is still being aerated. Personally, i use within 24 to 36 hours (plenty frothy) and any leftovers goes into the regular house plants or tossed in the yard.


honestly, im using pure sugar cane honey, from day 1 in flower to harvest, and getting great results. i add a tablespoon in, with about 5L of water, every watering (weekly or so). way frostier buds.


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## greennewfie (Jul 21, 2012)

yup i have to agree nick!!
i use 100% pure sugarcane molasses and its amazing how frosty your buds get using it


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## stickyicky0420 (Jul 21, 2012)

thanks verry informitive help me cause i just started useing organics 
+rep
much love
sticky


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## sorethumb (Jul 25, 2012)

i thought useing uncomposted organic materials . was unsafe because of pathogens


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## nick17gar (Jul 26, 2012)

sorethumb said:


> i thought useing uncomposted organic materials . was unsafe because of pathogens


well first, im no doctor, or biologist, or whatever. but id imagine the uncomposted organic material would have to have the pathogen already, for it to be an issue. seeing as how i use previous pot plants as my primary organic matter, if they had pathogens, i would have smoked them already.... 

otherwise, i dont see much issue. it is how nature keeps its own dirt fresh, by composting organic materials (+ bugs and everything)

Either way, i feel pretty healthy. =)


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## greennewfie (Jul 26, 2012)

i havent had any problems with pathogens, 
all that happens is the micro organisms feeds and breaks down the organic matter its a natural process once all the sugars and material is broken down the microbes go dorment anyways i beleive until more organic material is added.. 
good question though ill have to reasearch into that one abit more deeply,,
if it went anaerobic now and gets moldy and whatnot like if you leave a lid on a bucket full of organic material breaking down thats a different story very bad stuff growing in there!!


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## nick17gar (Jul 26, 2012)

now, on the other hand, when i placed fan leaves over the top of the soil, as a mulch (and just to get rid of the mountain of leaves i had), i did notice some of it start to mold up, and being above the dirt, and in contact with the air, id imagine some spores do get into the air, not so smart if indoors i suppose. 

i wont be doing that again, not just for the possibility of spores, but it attracts insects too. maybe they can smell the funk?


either way, composting pot plants still is a great way to get those nutrients back, and into the next plants. i will keep chopping, grinding, cutting, and breaking it down, to put under the soil.


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## greennewfie (Jul 27, 2012)

if you have access use seaweed,
it has tons of nutes plus the hormones which is the greatest and bugs hate it as a liquid!!


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## sorethumb (Jul 29, 2012)

i just started a compost pile i read its not useable for a year


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## greennewfie (Jul 30, 2012)

sorethumb said:


> i just started a compost pile i read its not useable for a year


yeah you have to let the mirobes (bacteria and fungi) break down the organic material into nutriants takes a year or so too break down!!


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## dezign7 (Jul 30, 2012)

*Hey nick good post, i have a question about your banana tea. It says 4 peels, is that 4 bananas or a single banana *


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## Systema (Jul 31, 2012)

Thanks a lot that's very helpfull and interesting!


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## nick17gar (Aug 17, 2012)

dezign7 said:


> *Hey nick good post, i have a question about your banana tea. It says 4 peels, is that 4 bananas or a single banana *



4 entire bananas! i try to get big bananas, and id even use more, maybe 5 bananas per liter instead of 4? the recipe is great and does WONDERS. ive yet to have a potassium deficiency in any plant since ive been doing this. its a nice boost, cheap, and apparently, its long lasting, and not toxic if used in excess. 

I will say this, stop atleast 2 weeks before to harvest, ive gotten banana tasting pot since using this. its not a bad taste, when the pot itself was a berry or something, but some other strains taste funky with a hint of banana...


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## Hawkins Haze (Aug 18, 2012)

Iv came up with my own great soil, half super soil , half jet black organic soil with my own perlite mix and some clay pellets for good airation , I used organic roots for half, fox farm happy frog for another, and put a couple in only super soil, my mix is killing it, I'm just over the second week of veg and this double koosh is already as wide as or wider than the 5 gallon pots ther in,, super stoked, I'll post some pics ,


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## Hawkins Haze (Aug 18, 2012)

Hawkins Haze said:


> Iv came up with my own great soil, half super soil , half jet black organic soil with my own perlite mix and some clay pellets for good airation , I used organic roots for half, fox farm happy frog for another, and put a couple in only super soil, my mix is killing it, I'm just over the second week of veg and this double koosh is already as wide as or wider than the 5 gallon pots ther in,, super stoked, I'll post some pics ,


Everything Iv said about growing is fake,, I'm in no way growing sweet stinky canibus


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## atidd11 (Aug 19, 2012)

Tats how growing weed changed u. Slowly but surly ull see lol. Anxiety from that shit rIght there


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## ilovethegreen (Aug 19, 2012)

The only water I give to my girls is pond water. I get the stankiest-ass sludgeist water from the bottom of a lil water fall/ filter thing i have for my pond. I've been doing that for 2 years on my outdoors and it works well.


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## FresnoFarmer (Aug 26, 2012)

kellypinto said:


> Organic farming lowers water pollution and builds soil fertility.
> 
> 
> By eating organic food, you cut down on the chemical load that you take in, as it contains no insecticides, pesticides, growth hormones, antibiotics, fertilisers and toxic artificial additives, flavourings, colourings and preservatives.
> ...


When eating organic you still are eating chemicals.


Nice thread btw OP. Idk if it has already been mentioned, but potato peels are also a great source of potassium.

Here are some teas that I like. They are not mine, but I use these recipes


King of the HILL Organic Guano Tea Recipe​​​



*Week 1-3 Clone/ Seedling brew
Week 4-6 Veg 1 Brew
Week 7-9 Veg 2 Brew
Week 10-14 Bloom 1 Brew
Week 15-18 Bloom 2 Brew
Water with Brew once a week. Give fresh non-chlorinated water as needed in between brew.


Clone/Seedling Brew (less than 4 weeks old):
1/2 Cup of Earth Worm Castings or Alaskan Humus or fresh compost
2 1/2 TBS Unsulfured Black Strap Molasses
1 tsp Liquid Kelp Extract
Mix in 2 1/2 gallons of (treated or non-chlorinated or fish tank) water with air stone for 18-24 hours.
Make sure to strain well through cheesecloth if using airoponic rootmisting.

Once a week until roots are over 1inch. Then same mix plus 2 TBS Mycorrhizae Fungus product (Oregonism XL).


Veg 1 Brew
1 cup Earth Worm Castings or Alaskan Humus or fresh compost
1/3 cup Mexican Bat Guano (Nitrogen rich guano)
1/2 cup Alfalfa meal
5 TBS Unsulfured Black Strap Molasses
5 TBS Liquid Kelp Extract
Mix in 5 gallons of (amquell treated or non-chlorinated or fish tank) water with air stone for 18-24 hours.

For soil drench application cut finished brew with fresh water(amquell treated or non-chlorinated or fish tank) 50/50. 

For foliar feed application spray finished brew every 2-3 days in the first 6 hours of light. (MY PERSONAL FAVORITE)


Veg 2 Brew
1 cup Earth Worm Castings or Alaskan Humus or fresh compost
1/3 cup Mexican Bat Guano (Nitrogen rich guano)
1/3 cup Peruvian Seabird Guano (all around rich guano **BE CAREFUL**)
1/2 cup Alfalfa meal
5 TBS Unsulfured Black Strap Molasses
5 TBS Liquid Kelp Extract
3-5 TBS Concentrated Fish emulsions
Mix in 5 gallons of (amquell treated or non-chlorinated or fish tank) water with air stone for 18-24 hours.

For soil drench application cut finished brew with fresh water(amquell treated or non-chlorinated or fish tank) 50/50. 

For foliar feed application spray finished brew every 2-3 days in the first 6 hours of light. (MY PERSONAL FAVORITE)


Bloom 1 Brew
1 cup Earth Worm Castings or Alaskan Humus or fresh compost
1/3 cup Jamaican Bat Guano (Phosphorus rich guano)
1/3 cup Peruvian Seabird Guano (all around rich guano **BE CAREFUL**)
1/2 cup Alfalfa meal
5 TBS Unsulfured Black Strap Molasses
5 TBS Liquid Kelp Extract
Mix in 5 gallons of (amquell treated or non-chlorinated or fish tank) water with air stone for 18-24 hours.

For soil drench application cut finished brew with fresh water(amquell treated or non-chlorinated or fish tank) 50/50. 

For foliar feed application spray finished brew every 3-4 days in the first 6 hours of light. (MY PERSONAL FAVORITE)


Bloom 2 Brew
1 cup Earth Worm Castings or Alaskan Humus or fresh compost
2/3 cup Indonesian Bat Guano (Phosphorus rich guano)
2/3 cup Peruvian Seabird Guano (all around rich guano **BE CAREFUL**)
1/2 cup Alfalfa meal
5 TBS Unsulfured Black Strap Molasses
5 TBS Liquid Kelp Extract
Mix in 5 gallons of (amquell treated or non-chlorinated or fish tank) water with air stone for 18-24 hours.

For soil drench application cut finished brew with fresh water(amquell treated or non-chlorinated or fish tank) 50/50. 
DO NOT FOLIAR FEED AFTER WEEK 4 OF BLOOM

You can add a biological stimulator to any brew to give a jump start to the process. I LOVE OREGONISM XL by Root Organics. Follow directions on container.​
FLUSHING DIRECTIONS: hahahahahahahahahahahah
Continue until the day you Harvest. Don't Panic, Its Organic!

Curing Directions:
Cut all leaves from buds, leaving only the flower.
Leave the buds on the branch.
Hang branches for 3-4 days on a line in a dark room at 70-75 degrees with average humidity (50-60rh)
Clip buds from branch and into cardboard box. Make sure they are one layer thin on the bottom of box not stacked. Leave them in the box, with the top on, for 3-4 days, giving them a good shake once a day.
Put buds in an air tight glass jar (Ikea) for 3-4 days. *** Very important to shake up and BURP(open top to release gasses) ONCE A DAY*****
After that it should be ready. If anyone tells you it will take less than 10 days to properly cure nugs, forget anything else they have ever told you.
The nugs should barely smell until you twist-break them open, then it should be DANK!

Other directions:

Brew in 5 gallon home depot bucket outside, for smell and overflow reasons. Use as many airstones as possible to bubble your brew. You can't add too much dissolved Oxygen. 18-24 hours later the Sweet molasses smell will turn to a rich earthy smell. IT IS DONE! Let sit for 20 minutes after you remove the airstones to allow sediment to settle to bottom. Pour 2.5 gallons into new bucket to 50/50 with fresh water for soil drench. Use tea with-in 6 hours of airstone removal at max. Right away is best. Rinse out bucket sludge into outside garden as soon as possible. If it dries i'll bet you a dollar you'll buy a new bucket.*


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## nick17gar (Aug 28, 2012)

awesome fresno farmer, ima try those out


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## Sirsly2012 (Aug 31, 2012)

Ive.just finished a Big Bang grow using Plant Magic + Soil Supreme from beginning to end. The nutrients were also from Plant Magic. Plant Magic Plus Old Timer 'bloom' and 'grow'. Its an all in one feed containing all micro nutrients and whatever else your plant needs. The soil	also uses Fytocell instead of Perlite (this is ofcourse of personal preference. I like to add a cup of Perlite to each 11litre tub along with the soil but its not neccassary.


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## GRilla (Sep 21, 2012)

If I had a blueberry plant and decided to make a blueberry tea Will it give the plant a blueberry taste?


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## nick17gar (Oct 5, 2012)

GRilla said:


> If I had a blueberry plant and decided to make a blueberry tea Will it give the plant a blueberry taste?


yes and no, adding in blueberries to the soil, or tea might help the plant take on that taste, but more then likely it will just boost its growth and flowering. If you really want to take on that taste, stop adding everything else a week before harvest, and add just blueberry juice and water. 

the last week before harvest thats what i do, usually with orange, lemon, or just honey+water.


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## Systema (Oct 20, 2012)

nick17gar said:


> Organic feeding provides great results. A good organic grow starts with the soil. (look at subcool's section on that. he knows soil.) Im going to go over strictly what to do once the plant is in the dirt, and you still need to feed them something. Feeding the plants the right stuff is key to successful grows, and knowing what to feed and when, is needed for every grower.
> 
> If your plant has some sort of issue, theres threads on that https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/488004-guide-nutrient-deficiency-toxicity.html . this thread is gonna cover what do to AFTER you notice a deficiency, or just to keep a healthy garden. this will be using only organic nutrients. Ive purchased bottles of guano, and molasses and wondered... what now? well this is what now.
> 
> ...


Every time i start a new grow i come here to see my feeding schedule ... + Rep nick this thread is awesome!


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## farmit420 (Oct 24, 2012)

this is awesome bro! thank you for sharing... great outline and very well written my man... best to ya pal


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## PrincessPot (Oct 24, 2012)

_It was awesome to see that banana peel plant food in here. I have used bananas in the past, but never used molassas. Thanx for the great post.

Aloha,

Princess Pot_


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## farmit420 (Oct 25, 2012)

good share bro! this list is great to have around and cant wait to try sum


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## ltkipras (Oct 26, 2012)

Great threat already made some banana fertilizer, just one thing, do these processes make it a complete fertilizer, what i mean is that you don't need any microbes or fungi in the medium to process it?

Thanks


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## WyoGrow (Nov 15, 2012)

sorethumb said:


> i just started a compost pile i read its not useable for a year


If you just let it sit and do it's thing on it's own it can take a year. I finish compost from beginning to end in a tumbler in 6-8 weeks. You can speed up the process in a pile by turning it every week or two. Those little critters need oxygen to do their thang..... I can compost down lawn clippings in a little over a month by turning twice a week and keeping it damp and covered with a tarp.


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## Justin5737 (Nov 15, 2012)

So during the last weeks of flower if i brew some raspberries in water you're saying it might take on the taste of raspberries? That would be tits.


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## blueJ (Nov 16, 2012)

Ummmmm no, sorry.


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## Endur0xX (Nov 17, 2012)

Daemonn789 said:


> Can any shed light on how long teas/nute mixes can sit out for? Aerated and unaerated? I ask because sometimes I've ended up making too much and it will sit/bubble for 2-3 days between use. Instead of dumping anything out, I'd like to just reuse it.


A thread I started a couple weeks ago :

https://www.rollitup.org/organics/575043-videos-compost-teas-nerdz.html

it should answer most of your questions and basically it's not recommended to go longer than 48hours unless you are in a lab


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## munchies7 (Dec 7, 2012)

can i add the banana tea or the sea weed into my AACT teas? i only use a 2 gallon bucket and some times i use a 1 gallon i dont have many plants and after i watering em i usually throw it away... hope this plants starve so i can make more, so can i add this to my mix? it usually is worm casting, psg, molasses, some times alfalfa and now i will add sunshine mix #8 (pretty much spagnum n vermiculite) or can i just aerate the banana or seaweed teas?


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## munchies7 (Dec 25, 2012)

????????


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## Anatory (Jan 1, 2013)

Organic feeding provides great results and a good organic grow starts with the soil.


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## iknowad (Feb 5, 2013)

I'm tempted to try some banana peel tea in my coco. Since its sort of hydro I'm not sure if i should apply once a week or every two weeks. I add a new brew of compost tea to the coco every 3 days so bacteria is thriving in there. Not sure exactly how I should apply the banana tea. Any suggestions?


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## Rrog (Feb 7, 2013)

In my opinion, the fundamental primary amendment is VermiCompost. Consider Barley tea, Aloe, and coconut water. These teas will yield huge hormone levels as well as secondary metabolites and plant enzymes. You can't get all that in a bottle.


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## robro (Feb 11, 2013)

Excellent thread,very helpful.I am just starting to use teas,and am using alfalfa pellets.From what i have read about alfalfa the NPK is about 3-1-2,you say in your thread that it is 2.5-5-2,this is a big difference in phosphorous.Im no expert on the subject,but if there is a question to be asked,i will ask it."If you dont ask,you wont find out".


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## Sincerely420 (Feb 11, 2013)

robro said:


> Excellent thread,very helpful.I am just starting to use teas,and am using alfalfa pellets.From what i have read about alfalfa the NPK is about 3-1-2,you say in your thread that it is 2.5-5-2,this is a big difference in phosphorous.Im no expert on the subject,but if there is a question to be asked,i will ask it."If you dont ask,you wont find out".



Not Alfalfa will have the same NPK content brother. Just depends on what you get and where it comes from. I'm sure you can probably find Alfalfa with 5 different NPK amounts a u can with everything else just about


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## ounevinsmoke (Mar 2, 2013)

Can I just use my Juicer and press to make nutrient rich fruit tea instead of letting rotten fruit sit in bags? Or do I need at least the fruits pulp to contribute to the process?


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## Becorath (Mar 16, 2013)

I have a question. How quickly is the P available with the banana tea? And how long does it last? 

Thank you


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## robro (Mar 21, 2013)

Sincerely420 said:


> Not Alfalfa will have the same NPK content brother. Just depends on what you get and where it comes from. I'm sure you can probably find Alfalfa with 5 different NPK amounts a u can with everything else just about


i think it is a matter of a decimal point in front of the P value,making it 0.5,which is about right.alfalfa is grown for animal feed,and would probably not be beneficial with high phosphorous.unless you were growing cannabis of course.


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## Alexander Supertramp (Mar 21, 2013)

nick17gar said:


> Organic feeding provides great results. A good organic grow starts with the soil. (look at subcool's section on that. he knows soil.) Im going to go over strictly what to do once the plant is in the dirt, and you still need to feed them something. Feeding the plants the right stuff is key to successful grows, and knowing what to feed and when, is needed for every grower.
> 
> If your plant has some sort of issue, theres threads on that https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/488004-guide-nutrient-deficiency-toxicity.html . this thread is gonna cover what do to AFTER you notice a deficiency, or just to keep a healthy garden. this will be using only organic nutrients. Ive purchased bottles of guano, and molasses and wondered... what now? well this is what now.
> 
> ...


Good info and post. But wouldnt it have been easier to do this: http://www.treatingyourself.com/vbulletin/archive/index.php?t-48494.html


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## BUDies (Mar 23, 2013)

So I'm very interested in the banana tea, but not so interested in taking away from the plants natural flavor. I thought I had read somewhere on here that flowers won't take on the smell or taste from just being fed, but rather would need you to soak the stems in a juice after harvest so the plants are absorbing that into the buds with no root system, as I have no experience with this, how many people has noticed a difference on taste and smell from what you fed the plants?


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## indoornewbe (Mar 25, 2013)

anyone know what or can i folior feed my space queen she is 21 days into flower any help would be appreciated


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## Rrog (Mar 29, 2013)

I would stick to teas from now until harvest. Don't spray the flowers, IMHO


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## TonyAndHisWeed (Mar 31, 2013)

very helpful post, thanks


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## nick17gar (Apr 17, 2013)

Alexander Supertramp said:


> Good info and post. But wouldnt it have been easier to do this: http://www.treatingyourself.com/vbulletin/archive/index.php?t-48494.html


that bastard copy and pasted my thread! tweetybird, and all i get is ¨borrowed from another site¨
well atleast im being read.

atleast it shows i wrote this almost a year before. the original post there would be good if they said what those things were. i dunno what chammomile looks like and theres no way im going thru the forest to pick some. i also dont have a forest nearby, so i guess thats up to each person. I like composting, boosting with tea, and adding any thing strong to the compost pile itself, giving it time to work in, dissipate, etc.


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## nick17gar (Apr 17, 2013)

BUDies said:


> So I'm very interested in the banana tea, but not so interested in taking away from the plants natural flavor. I thought I had read somewhere on here that flowers won't take on the smell or taste from just being fed, but rather would need you to soak the stems in a juice after harvest so the plants are absorbing that into the buds with no root system, as I have no experience with this, how many people has noticed a difference on taste and smell from what you fed the plants?



BANANA TEA.

i think it does take on the flavor a little. perhaps maybe cuz i know how much of this stuff i give them (a LOT). im sure if you stopped a week or 2 before then you wouldnt, i dont tho, the beauty of organics is that they are safe to use up to the end. either way, i toss the peels in the dirt in my compost mound, and make the tea, and do it often, and the taste is negligible.

someone else asked how fast does it act? make it, and use it, and youll see a difference the next day, for sure. i have. just make sure its not hot still when you go to pour it


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## Sincerely420 (Apr 22, 2013)

Thought you went inactive bro! i just hit you with another friend request.


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## Timewasmoney1 (Apr 22, 2013)

So can we not use bat poo in flowering? Im going to assume no because of its high nitrogen content?

Also what about buffalo poo during flowering the brand i have is 1-1-1

EDIT: Great post by the way! I cant wait to start my first organic grow


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## Sincerely420 (Apr 22, 2013)

Just grab a different guano. Grab a High P guano and use the SHIT out of it!


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## Timewasmoney1 (Apr 22, 2013)

Hm maybe im wrong on saying the bat guano is high in nitrogen. my bat guano are 1-10-1 and .05-13-.02

So both are really high in P!


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## Sincerely420 (Apr 22, 2013)

Yep! That's the stuff bossman 


There are literally 10 different bat guano NPK ratios lol! So it's easy to mix em up lol


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## Timewasmoney1 (Apr 22, 2013)

Sincerely420 said:


> Yep! That's the stuff bossman
> 
> 
> There are literally 10 different bat guano NPK ratios lol! So it's easy to mix em up lol


Yeah i have another guano but i think its outside and dont feel like going out but i think thats the one that has the high N


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## nick17gar (Apr 23, 2013)

Sincerely420 said:


> Thought you went inactive bro! i just hit you with another friend request.


YES and NO! i moved, from the 1bedroom apartment to a 6br house! its fucking huge! ive got a few plants going now, 3... but 2 are my size, and they are outdoor which is new for me, im gonna start a thread on it today hopefully, just waiting for the camera to charge


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## nick17gar (Apr 23, 2013)

Well fuck it, they are organic, so why not, ill just post it here

First, my dirt:  is a mix of many dirts.
i had this flower bed, (as well as others that wrap around the entire backyard, and emptied one (the smallest). I stick everything in there, when i dig a hole for a rose bush, or whatever, the dirt removed goes here; kitchen scraps (fruits, veggies, egg shells), plain paper, cardboard, wood, charcoal from the word burning grill... i just throw it all in, and layer it with dirt as much as possible, stir it often with the shovel, and let it fill, then i can almost instantly use it all on any project. Anything i purchase, like bonemeal, castings, blood meal, whatever, goes in here, to sit, and work, without plants! thats important, chemical levels, pH, its too active to measure anything that will be long term, so i let it sit, and work its way throughout. add in the rain, sunlight and bugs, and in a month or 2, its full of great, active, and nutrient filled dirt. 
(mainly, its banana peels, apple cores, and lettuce/tomato/onion clippings + dirt)



Anyways, the plants:


clones i took today! 
they were at the base of the plants, did it real quick, used some cloning powder, and put it into fresh composted soil (purchased, ill explain why i buy dirt later)


Next up is the 1 month or so plant (i stopped counting the days long ago, about the same time i figured looking at the plant to be done to harvest it is better then crossing off days on a calendar) 
real vivid green color, not a hint of yellow, or dark/dry patches.


Next is the sativa strain: 
this one isnt looking 100%, it was transplanted about a week ago, the pot was much smaller, and it was root bound. apparently, the soil mix i made was heavy on N, and ive been flushing all morning with water right out of the hose. its bouncing back nicely, the N claws were pretty well defined last night, and now they are spreading out, opening and its perky-er then it was last night

And lastly, the indica: 

to give you an idea, with the pot, its my height, 5´9 so really, 4´9 (without the pot), maybe 3-3.5 foot diameter?
its probably a few months old(?) either way, its loving the outside. yes, theres bugs chomping away, but the budding has already started so im not too concerned. also, the leaves that were attacked by bugs are few and far inbetween, so fuck it, i dont care. its negligible really, im not gonna spray shit on the plant for 5 half eaten leaves, whatever was there is gone, and if it comes back, they satisfy quickly apparently.

this is my first grow outside. all i did was a 50/50 mix of store bought composted dirt, and my compost, in the bottom half of the pot. in the top half i did only store bought soil (less chemically active). i also add the teas, and whatever else i do to my compost pile directly, and let it do its work there, so the stuff is HOT, probably why the other plant got an N toxicity after the transplant. Im sure it wasnt transplant shock, the smaller pots i use are all those black plastic pots that are super cheap and flimsy, and i just cut the side and take out the entire mass in 1 easy method. fuck it, its 2 dollars a pot, ill pay that to make sure theres no root damage.

Also, the backyard has a lemon tree, a kumquat tree (and some peppers), so im sure the excess of those will make their way into the compost pile =) atleast the citrus will, be a nice boost of carbs, sugars, and nutrients.


 <--- thats a spicy pepper!


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## Rrog (Apr 23, 2013)

Very, very cool. Nice of you to take the time and share all that.


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## Og $kunk (May 4, 2013)

Just wondering about the " fruit tea" what kinds of fruits are suitable for this process? And where is the best place to store this in till it becomes of use?


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## Sincerely420 (May 5, 2013)

Bananas are what ppl seem to be using, but they seem to have the potential to "burn" the plants?!

And you don't store tea, you use it within 4 hours after the brew. The sooner, the livelier, the better!


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## Linklove93 (May 7, 2013)

I've heard fish tank waste water can be good fert for plants


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## Jehster (May 13, 2013)

Great guide, thanks for sharing. I was wondering if anyone knows of any benefits to stewing stinging nettles with boiling water, as I had a friend who put this solution on her patch..


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## skem64 (May 24, 2013)

Nick ...."*the only one i go heavy with at this point is the banana tea......"

Do you do feed your babies just the once with this or every watering? Can you over-dose with it?

btw, I'm friggin' glued to this thread.....I wanna thank all of you for sharing such interesting and valuable infomation. Well done guys!
*


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## skem64 (May 24, 2013)

nick17gar said:


> yes and no, adding in blueberries to the soil, or tea might help the plant take on that taste, but more then likely it will just boost its growth and flowering. If you really want to take on that taste, stop adding everything else a week before harvest, and add just blueberry juice and water.
> 
> the last week before harvest thats what i do, usually with orange, lemon, or just honey+water.


I like that idea.....I think I'll try it with garlic (tea) so it puts the cops off getting too close!


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## skem64 (May 24, 2013)

WyoGrow said:


> If you just let it sit and do it's thing on it's own it can take a year. I finish compost from beginning to end in a tumbler in 6-8 weeks. You can speed up the process in a pile by turning it every week or two. Those little critters need oxygen to do their thang..... I can compost down lawn clippings in a little over a month by turning twice a week and keeping it damp and covered with a tarp.


I've just nicked your Benjamin Franklin quote for my FB status! )


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## nick17gar (May 29, 2013)

Og $kunk said:


> Just wondering about the " fruit tea" what kinds of fruits are suitable for this process? And where is the best place to store this in till it becomes of use?


well a bucket with a lid is great. make sure light cant get through.

or start a compost pile, and throw fruits in there


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## nick17gar (May 29, 2013)

Sincerely420 said:


> Bananas are what ppl seem to be using, but they seem to have the potential to "burn" the plants?!
> 
> And you don't store tea, you use it within 4 hours after the brew. The sooner, the livelier, the better!


i dunno.... ive used the banana tea a LOT and ive never burned the plants. perhaps i gave them a bit of a banana taste, but never any real negative side effects.

unless you mean burn like heat... in which case yea, dont pour boiling hot banana/water mix on your plants.


----------



## nick17gar (May 29, 2013)

skem64 said:


> Nick ...."*the only one i go heavy with at this point is the banana tea......"
> 
> Do you do feed your babies just the once with this or every watering? Can you over-dose with it?
> 
> ...


well... i try to do it about the week i switch to flowering, and every 2-4 weeks after that. it really is a nice boost to potassium. and eating 4 bananas isnt hard, especially between multiple people... 

im def a big fan of it.
---------
ive also started adding a tablespoon of orange/lemon juice, to kinda offset the banana taste, and make it just a bit acidic.
....
and i have a kumquat tree, i think they are gross... like lemons but a super strong taste, now i have a few (maybe 10) chopped up and in the dirt of one of the plants, so the juices mix every time i water, and it decomposes in the dirt where the roots are... i cant say anything bad is happening, that plant is budding fairly quickly, and its pretty danked out. im not sure if id use any more tho, as i dont want there too be mold or too much fungus or who knows...


----------



## nick17gar (May 29, 2013)

Linklove93 said:


> I've heard fish tank waste water can be good fert for plants


yea, goldfish are big poopers. plants love it. id dilute it a bit tho, in case its too poopy

make sure its tropical, not african or saltwater.

a good rule of thumb, if algae grows in the fishtank, then plants will too... and that water can used elsewhere for plants


----------



## Vermonta (Jun 11, 2013)

How does one dilute a tea to 5%? I'm looking at the Gypsum Tea.


----------



## GenghisKanGrow (Jun 15, 2013)

Hey RIU,

Genghis Khan here just wanted to stop by and say hi before my daily conquest to take over DA world, but just wanted to know if you don't stir the concoctions of lets say a dandelion nutrient tea, if you don't stir during the one to two week waiting period at all besides maybe once;

-- Would there be any adverse effects from just letting it sit without introducing oxygen into the mix every so often, I know you want the mold and fungi for boosting microbial life but I don't happen to have an electron microscope on hand, so I'm not completely sure of everything that is in there but I can tell you it smells quite funky, but i was just curious as to if this was as effective as making an FPE, and or if the fact that i haven't stirred it at all means i should just toss this batch and get some more to make.

Thanks for the input and happy growing
GK


----------



## TDM (Jul 17, 2013)

Use one all the time, for Worm Casting's encourage root development. You can pick Aquarium pump at WalMart for $5.00/Airator $1.95...(approx.)


----------



## KronicCraig (Jul 18, 2013)

Great thread! just started my first organic grow and will be using several of these brews for my feedings.


----------



## murdergrow (Jul 23, 2013)

Jehster said:


> Great guide, thanks for sharing. I was wondering if anyone knows of any benefits to stewing stinging nettles with boiling water, as I had a friend who put this solution on her patch..


nettle tea is a great source of organic silica


----------



## Mad Hamish (Jul 28, 2013)

Excellent intro to teas, this. Only learning about them still and this thread is a great start.


----------



## roseypeach (Jul 28, 2013)

Sincerely420 said:


> Bananas are what ppl seem to be using, but they seem to have the potential to "burn" the plants?!
> 
> And you don't store tea, you use it within 4 hours after the brew. The sooner, the livelier, the better!


well, now it would depend on if the bananas they are using are fresh or composted. 

Fresh peels might be ok for some outdoor plants in the ground, but they would need to be buried fairly deep to keep rodents from detecting them. If you fail to do that, then it's a recipe for disaster, mostly on the bug side.

I personally use bruised peels and cut them into squares and bake them in my oven until they are a charcoal black color. Sometimes it takes forever to draw the humidity out. You have to compensate your drying heat if it's real humid outside. Once they are done, I've cooled them extensively and then 'tilled' them into my potting soil before adding my plants. This stuff is awesome!

I don't know much about teas, but generally the weaker, the better in some cases. Err on the side of caution. 

I also add cooled coffee grounds in with the banana "chips". It's great for speedy decay  and helps give a nice N boost to a vegging plant


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## Mad Hamish (Jul 28, 2013)

Vermonta said:


> How does one dilute a tea to 5%? I'm looking at the Gypsum Tea.


 That would be one part tea to 20 parts water


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## sadj (Jul 30, 2013)

there is a really good tea which premotes rooting of clones. just soak willow over night an half dillute when watering clones


----------



## blackrecluse (Aug 21, 2013)

Could I get some advice please?
I have been using tea with every watering.
I hope I dont hurt them.

1 tbl molasses (grandma's)
1 tbl microbe dirt (down to earth pro organic)
1 tbl alfalfa meal (down to earth)
Bubbled in 5 gallons tap water for 1-5 days
The ph is around 7.5

This is my base. I will be adding more Food later and not with every watering.
It gets very slimy and smells like a dirty fish tank.

EVERY SINGLE WATERING?

...the reason. Protecting the life in the soil. My chloramine level is .2-.4 ppm.
From what I understood, this brew is more effective at eliminating chloramine then a small carbon filter.
It has lots of carbon, and lots of life to eat/poop/eat/poop. So that it just doesnt matter once the water hits the roots.


----------



## chiefrokaho (Aug 22, 2013)

sadj said:


> there is a really good tea which premotes rooting of clones. just soak willow over night an half dillute when watering clones


Is there a certain kind of willow i need to use? Use leaves or small twigs or both? Thx alot


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## Mad Hamish (Aug 22, 2013)

chiefrokaho said:


> Is there a certain kind of willow i need to use? Use leaves or small twigs or both? Thx alot


 Weeping willow, fresh shoots no old growth, leaves taken off it's all in the stems/bark.


----------



## chiefrokaho (Aug 22, 2013)

Mad Hamish said:


> Weeping willow, fresh shoots no old growth, leaves taken off it's all in the stems/bark.


Other willows wont work too?


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## Mad Hamish (Aug 23, 2013)

chiefrokaho said:


> Other willows wont work too?


 I was always under the impression it is only Weeping Willow, but your question led me to rather do some more digging before answering all willy-nilly. Seems like ALL willows have the same hormones present in the bark. Here is a very interesting little article I found, tons of little interesting bits I never knew about too:

http://deepgreenpermaculture.com/diy-instructions/home-made-plant-rooting-hormone-willow-water/


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## sadj (Aug 23, 2013)

yeh as hamish said all willows can be used and only use the bark and stems, though if willow is unevalible in pretty sure meadow sweat flowers can also be used. i think the rooting booster is called salacylic acid and is also a pain reliever, lol i think its used to make asprin. also here are some other teas i use. first is stingy nettel tea, good n values i think, soak for a week stirring daily and use it as 1part tea to 2 parts water. also comfray tea, good k values i think, soak for a day or two and use it as 2 part tea to one part water. last thing lol, does any one know a good phospherus tea?


----------



## st0wandgrow (Aug 23, 2013)

sadj said:


> yeh as hamish said all willows can be used and only use the bark and stems, though if willow is unevalible in pretty sure meadow sweat flowers can also be used. *i think the rooting booster is called salacylic acid *and is also a pain reliever, lol i think its used to make asprin. also here are some other teas i use. first is stingy nettel tea, good n values i think, soak for a week stirring daily and use it as 1part tea to 2 parts water. also comfray tea, good k values i think, soak for a day or two and use it as 2 part tea to one part water. last thing lol, does any one know a good phospherus tea?


You can also use fresh aloe to accomplish the same thing.


----------



## WeedKillsBrainCells (Aug 23, 2013)

blackrecluse said:


> Could I get some advice please?
> I have been using tea with every watering.
> I hope I dont hurt them.
> 
> ...


Well no not every single use because at some point it'll become wasteful if anything. Not really sure about chloramines but my understanding is you'd let the water sit for 48 hrs or so to remove the chlorine or use a osmosis system, maybe you know more but I never heard of teas for that


----------



## chiefrokaho (Aug 26, 2013)

Mad Hamish said:


> I was always under the impression it is only Weeping Willow, but your question led me to rather do some more digging before answering all willy-nilly. Seems like ALL willows have the same hormones present in the bark. Here is a very interesting little article I found, tons of little interesting bits I never knew about too:
> 
> http://deepgreenpermaculture.com/diy-instructions/home-made-plant-rooting-hormone-willow-water/


Hell yeah! I have access to willows. Thx for lookin that up, cant wait to read thru it.


----------



## chiefrokaho (Aug 26, 2013)

sadj said:


> yeh as hamish said all willows can be used and only use the bark and stems, though if willow is unevalible in pretty sure meadow sweat flowers can also be used. i think the rooting booster is called salacylic acid and is also a pain reliever, lol i think its used to make asprin. also here are some other teas i use. first is stingy nettel tea, good n values i think, soak for a week stirring daily and use it as 1part tea to 2 parts water. also comfray tea, good k values i think, soak for a day or two and use it as 2 part tea to one part water. last thing lol, does any one know a good phospherus tea?


Thx. I still need to find some local patchs of nettle and comfrey among others. Also need to find out how to get what i need from yucca plants i have. Need to get atv out soon!


----------



## VTMi'kmaq (Aug 28, 2013)

Ok any of you guys got a solid recipe for aloe vera foliar spray?


----------



## RedCarpetMatches (Aug 31, 2013)

VTMi'kmaq said:


> Ok any of you guys got a solid recipe for aloe vera foliar spray?


Bump and why?! Also heard great things about coconut water.


----------



## Someacdude (Aug 31, 2013)

Great thread, thanks for all the help fellas


----------



## WeedKillsBrainCells (Sep 6, 2013)

keep seeing the occasional doubter in results of teas. though ive seen some great results in shit soil on comparison vids - is it always that much of a verifiable boost? I can see the uses for it in sterilized soil for example but can it replace ferts or does it depend. ive used teas i dunno around 10 times and i will say that when i used yarrow and dandelion my strawberrys leaves curled inwards, good/bad? thx


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## Mad Hamish (Sep 7, 2013)

A plant trasplanted from coco on day 1 after transplant:







Aaaaand on Day 8:







Fed nothing but compost tea at a VERY mild dosage, added Lacto B as foliar spray. Out goes all my 'flow tables, I almost feel like burning all my hydro gear and pissing on the ashes. I will NEVER look back at it. Here's to a green future!


----------



## RedCarpetMatches (Sep 9, 2013)

Mad Hamish said:


> A plant trasplanted from coco on day 1 after transplant:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


What'd you transplant into from coco? I'm currently trying coco with organic tea and loving it.


----------



## Mad Hamish (Sep 9, 2013)

I made my own Living Soil after reading through Rrog's thread and seeing the results some other guys have gotten in Living Soil too  Coco makes up a huge part of it though. This is badass because the plants hardly ever need the tea even. It's just water and GROW! OK sure it took like 6 weeks to cook the soil, but I have started a new cook every 2 weeks like clockwork. I've got enough to last me 6 months at least now already. Can't help it, it's addictive stuff LOL


----------



## VTMi'kmaq (Sep 9, 2013)

RedCarpetMatches said:


> Bump and why?! Also heard great things about coconut water.


Sorry redcarpet I got distracted by another thread about organics. My main reasoning for wanting the foliar spray recipe is because I grow Japanese aloe and use them as companion plants in all my grows. They are monsters when taken care of and being able to utilize the fronds to make a foliar spray that's beneficial to the plants is super nice.


----------



## Mad Hamish (Sep 9, 2013)

VTMi'kmaq said:


> Ok any of you guys got a solid recipe for aloe vera foliar spray?


 My farm is FULL of Aloe Ferox... I must look into using it for growing also, it does the same things for skin Aloe Vera does, but it grows quite a lot bigger. They literally grow into short trees. If it's useful, man, I really have a LOT of useful plants around  This Organic thing just keeps getting better, making my growing even cheaper every day. And plants LOVE this stuff!


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## RedCarpetMatches (Sep 9, 2013)

Foliage feeding is where its at boys and girls! just googled it for an hour and my mind is blown...and blowed.


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## Mad Hamish (Sep 9, 2013)

RedCarpetMatches said:


> Foliage feeding is where its at boys and girls! just googled it for an hour and my mind is blown...and blowed.


I fully agree. Teas with added Lacto B are the berries. Such fast response in my ladies!


----------



## RedCarpetMatches (Sep 9, 2013)

I just POWER WASHED with kelp (PED lol), alfalfa, pinch o' chelate iron along with pro mix CMB. EWC, beaner bat poo, coconut water, and tenderly rubbed those stomatas to sweet baby sleep. Hope I don't wake up to crispy frito leaves like me boy Hamish do.


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## WeedKillsBrainCells (Sep 10, 2013)

Anyone tried comfrey? Thats actually classed as a fertilizer rather than just the bacteria when you turn it to a tea. Heard its so strong you can use it as a herbicide if you dont dilute, just burns the plants with organic nutes


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## Mad Hamish (Sep 10, 2013)

RedCarpetMatches said:


> I just POWER WASHED with kelp (PED lol), alfalfa, pinch o' chelate iron along with pro mix CMB. EWC, beaner bat poo, coconut water, and tenderly rubbed those stomatas to sweet baby sleep. Hope I don't wake up to crispy frito leaves like me boy Hamish do.


 What you on about? I've NEVER burned a plant LOL.





































So which one had the crispy frito leaves eh Batboy?


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## VTMi'kmaq (Sep 10, 2013)

Prob not the best choice of words me thinks red!


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## RedCarpetMatches (Sep 10, 2013)

VTMi'kmaq said:


> Prob not the best choice of words me thinks red!


Man one stupid little *joke* and you get "stoned to death". Think we all know Hamish knows how to grow.


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## Mad Hamish (Sep 10, 2013)

RedCarpetMatches said:


> Man one stupid little *joke* and you get "stoned to death". Think we all know Hamish knows how to grow.


 Jokes are defined as: 


A thing that someone says to cause amusement or laughter, esp. a story with a funny punchline.


Make jokes; talk humorously 





I struggle to see the humour in insinuating I burn my babies to a crisp


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## RedCarpetMatches (Sep 10, 2013)

Mad Hamish said:


> Jokes are defined as:
> 
> A thing that someone says to cause amusement or laughter, esp. a story with a funny punchline.
> 
> ...


Taking this waaayyyy to far. I laughed when you called me "batboy". Think I even clicked like. I'm sorry Hamish. P.S. I'll probably just end up offending you again somehow so I'm also sorry in advance. I like your bud pics a lot more than your Webster.


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## RedCarpetMatches (Sep 11, 2013)

Anyone use seabird guano in their mix?


----------



## Someacdude (Sep 11, 2013)

RedCarpetMatches said:


> Anyone use seabird guano in their mix?


I threw 5 lbs in, but only because they sent that instead of bat.


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## RedCarpetMatches (Sep 11, 2013)

I can't believe how good this shit is considering their diets. Don't they eat cigarette butts and beer cans?! Anyway I love this stuff for late veg/early flower. One of the few things I actually notice a big difference with. Don't like the big pellets from Sunleaves tho.


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## DOMSWOOZ (Sep 14, 2013)

Just received some organic meds from my normal delivery service and it had me so impress i want to grow my diesel next go around all organically. The Strain was Strawberry Diesel btw. I personally have Sour Diesel #2 , however this list is great and its getting me on the right path... thanks


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## verge (Oct 9, 2013)

why not just get some fox farm ocean forest??


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## RedCarpetMatches (Oct 12, 2013)

Hot for seedlings in my experience, cost, and most of all BUGS!!! It'll work don't get me wrong, but there are cheaper better ways if you're willing to put in work.


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## lightcollection2013 (Oct 15, 2013)

Hi Im going to be using the General Organic line with The House of gardens Root excellerent and liquid Karma. 

12 PLANTS LEGAL LIMIT

For soilless I'm thinking of going with PRO-MIX BX BIOFUNGICIDE+MYCORRHIZAE..

Im wondering if this sound fine for my plants or if anyone has any recommendations. 

I wanna do a 10 week veg cycle (I want big Plants. 
WATER, FEED, WATER going to WATER, FEED, FEED

SOLO CUPS FOR 2 WEEKS FLORESENT LIGHTING(I got plants in solo cups)

1 GALLON FOR 3WEEKS UNDER A 400 WATT MHPRO-MIX BX BIOFUNGICIDE+MYCORRHIZAE

BEFORE GOING INTO A 7 GALLON FOR 5 WEEKS UNDER (2) 1000 watt mh.
I wanna line the bottom 2 inches of the the pots with something maybe sterile rocks for aeration open to recommendations.


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## DANKSWAG (Jan 11, 2014)

Being a noob when it comes to neem cake, I added some (sprinkled a small amount) as top dressing to my soil and watered.

Should I be seeing this forming on the top of my soil after using neem, is this normal?



DankSwag


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## DANKSWAG (Jan 11, 2014)

dante76 said:


> nick17gar - interesting recipes you've got here...a couple of questions.
> 
> For your guano tea, where can you find pasturized poo? Sunleaves guanos are not pasturized (I think) but are the easiest to get...maybe i'll check a local nursery. I was considering using a liquid guano becuase i'd rather work with something less toxic...that powder can fly anywhere (eyes, lungs)
> 
> ...


The baking soda is used to help buffer the PH lowering effects of adding High N sources to soil, normally for blood meal and other H N sources that guano that would have immediate effect on soil web. Not sure why bone meal when it is a high P source?

I would ensure to have something like oyster shell flower on hand to use on soil when applying High N sources such as guano's and blood or alfalfa meal.

DankSwag


----------



## Mashpotato Johnson (Jan 28, 2014)

Some additional notes on the use of COMFREY as a fertilizer. Taken from wiki here.

"
[h=3]Fertilizer uses[edit][/h]Comfrey is a particularly valuable source of fertility to the organic gardener. It is very deep rooted and acts as a dynamic accumulator,[SUP][_citation needed_][/SUP] mining a host of nutrients from the soil. These are then made available through its fast-growing leaves (up to 4-5 pounds per plant per cut) which, lacking fibres, quickly break down to a thick black liquid. There is also no risk of nitrogen robbery when comfrey is dug into the soil as the C:N ratio of the leaves is lower than that of well-rotted compost. Comfrey is an excellent source of potassium, an essential plant nutrient needed for flower, seed and fruit production. Its leaves contain 2-3 times more potassium than farmyard manure, mined from deep in the subsoil, tapping into reserves that would not normally be available to plants.[SUP][_citation needed_][/SUP]
There are various ways in which comfrey can be used as a fertilizer. These include:[SUP][_citation needed_][/SUP]


Comfrey as a compost activator - include comfrey in the compost heap to add nitrogen and help to heat the heap. Comfrey should not be added in quantity as it will quickly break down into a dark sludgy liquid that needs to be balanced with more fibrous, carbon-rich material.
Comfrey liquid fertilizer - can be produced by either rotting leaves down in rainwater for 4&#8211;5 weeks to produce a ready-to-use 'comfrey tea', or by stacking dry leaves under a weight in a container with a hole in the base. When the leaves decompose a thick black comfrey concentrate is collected. This must be diluted at 15:1 before use.
Comfrey as a mulch or side dressing - a two-inch layer of comfrey leaves placed around a crop will slowly break down and release plant nutrients; it is especially useful for crops that need extra potassium, such as fruit bearers but also reported to do well for potatoes. Comfrey can be slightly wilted before application optionally but either way, avoid using flowering stems as these can root.
Comfrey potting mixture - originally devised to utilize peat, now environmental awareness has led to a leaf mold-based alternative being adopted instead; two year old, well decayed leaf mold should be used, this will absorb the nutrient-rich liquid released by the decaying comfrey. In a black plastic sack alternate 7&#8211;10 cm (3-4 inch) layers of leaf mold and chopped comfrey leaves. Add a little dolomitic limestone to slightly raise pH. Leave for between 2&#8211;5 months depending on the season, checking that it does not dry out or become too wet. The mixture is ready when the comfrey leaves have rotted and are no longer visible. Use as a general potting compost, although it is too strong for seedlings.[SUP][3"[/SUP]
[SUP]
"

I found this super informative as I have an over abundance of the stuff where I live.
[/SUP]


----------



## DANKSWAG (Jan 28, 2014)

RedCarpetMatches said:


> Anyone use seabird guano in their mix?


Why yes Ginger I do, wasup?

Have you all checked out my latest updates on Dank Swag's Green Machine 2014?

DankSwag


----------



## Chronikool (Jan 29, 2014)

Mashpotato Johnson said:


> Some additional notes on the use of COMFREY as a fertilizer. Taken from wiki here.
> 
> "
> *Fertilizer uses[edit]*
> ...


Love comfrey!....use it a lot in my flowering plants and compost bin....i dont let my comfrey plants flower though...3 is plenty.  



Black liquid gold...


----------



## st0wandgrow (Jan 29, 2014)

Chronikool said:


> Love comfrey!....use it a lot in my flowering plants and compost bin....i dont let my comfrey plants flower though...3 is plenty.
> 
> 
> View attachment 2977812
> Black liquid gold...



The bocking 14 cultivar is a sterile comfrey plant. Other cultivars can be very invasive and overtake your yard if you let them go to flower.


----------



## DANKSWAG (Jan 29, 2014)

What is this bocking 14, a comfrey plant ? Where can one obtain?

DankSwag


----------



## st0wandgrow (Jan 29, 2014)

DANKSWAG said:


> What is this bocking 14, a comfrey plant ? Where can one obtain?
> 
> DankSwag


Yes, it's a sterile cultivar. Most comfrey is very invasive and will over-grow your back yard. This cultivar doesn't seed, so the only plants you will have will be the ones that you plant.

https://www.horizonherbs.com/product.asp?specific=917


----------



## DANKSWAG (Jan 29, 2014)

st0wandgrow said:


> Yes, it's a sterile cultivar. Most comfrey is very invasive and will over-grow your back yard. This cultivar doesn't seed, so the only plants you will have will be the ones that you plant.
> 
> https://www.horizonherbs.com/product.asp?specific=917


Thanks for the link... what do you think of their price for dry comfrey?

DankSwag


----------



## hyroot (Jan 29, 2014)

Chronikool said:


> Love comfrey!....use it a lot in my flowering plants and compost bin....i dont let my comfrey plants flower though...3 is plenty.
> 
> 
> View attachment 2977812
> Black liquid gold...


i can't find any dandelions like that around... if I'm lucky to find any. they 2 inches to 5 inches tall


----------



## Chronikool (Jan 30, 2014)

hyroot said:


> i can't find any dandelions like that around... if I'm lucky to find any. they 2 inches to 5 inches tall


Oh really...? most probably to do with the season...different hemisphere to a lot of you folk.


----------



## yankeegreen (Jan 30, 2014)

Chronikool said:


> Love comfrey!....use it a lot in my flowering plants and compost bin....i dont let my comfrey plants flower though...3 is plenty.
> 
> 
> View attachment 2977812
> Black liquid gold...


Dead of winter here. 4-5 months away from a dandelion harvest. That stuff is the shizz!


----------



## Wallflower1 (Jan 31, 2014)

I was wondering about all the goose poo I encounter, it is very green and looks like it could be very beneficial, the poo is very fresh and has a 2-4-2 profile when dried. I am a newbie, but have always had a no-till organic garden outside, but realize growing indoors and in containers will be a new learning process for me. My thought with the goose crap is that because the goose is a herbivore and eats a lot of marine greens it could be loaded with alot of microorganisms that could benefit the soil. I haven't been able to find anyone who has used it but it seems it would be a boost to the plant right before and during flowering.


----------



## st0wandgrow (Jan 31, 2014)

Wallflower1 said:


> I was wondering about all the goose poo I encounter, it is very green and looks like it could be very beneficial, the poo is very fresh and has a 2-4-2 profile when dried. I am a newbie, but have always had a no-till organic garden outside, but realize growing indoors and in containers will be a new learning process for me. My thought with the goose crap is that because the goose is a herbivore and eats a lot of marine greens it could be loaded with alot of microorganisms that could benefit the soil. I haven't been able to find anyone who has used it but it seems it would be a boost to the plant right before and during flowering.


IMO, any manure should go through a thermophilic composting process to kill off any pathogens that may be present. I wouldn't put goose shit right in to your soil.


----------



## Wallflower1 (Jan 31, 2014)

was thinking about a tea and adding it to my bokashi bin


----------



## Wallflower1 (Jan 31, 2014)

goose poop is a very fast decomposer, will try it with my edibles first after I take it out of my bokashi, and use the tea from the bin. I was just curious why nobody has ever mentioned it on any of the forums.


----------



## DANKSWAG (Jan 31, 2014)

st0wandgrow said:


> IMO, any manure should go through a thermophilic composting process to kill off any pathogens that may be present. I wouldn't put goose shit right in to your soil.


I agree, it should be added as part of a Super Soil mix so it can cook "decompose" properly to not only kill but with added air it would help feed the soil and encourage beneficial bacteria growth. If it was placed in a vermi composter "feed em to the worms Danno!" it would be really really B O N Z A I S H E E A TE !

Anywise stay tuned and if you want a good advised in the right place, if you want a go to Guru source to be enlightened in a condensed fashion check out True Living Organics by the Rev. He writes for SKUNK magazine anywise he breaks down some techniques designed for building a layer soil in a container allowing for everything to complete grow. Goes beyond just building a super spoil, goes through techniques as well as uses, sources, applications of organic nutrient and natural inorganic compounds that can be beneficial as well if applied properly. I think more along the lines of natural materials as opposed to synthetics, with a focus on organic.

Anywise start a worm bin and feed the poop (rabbit is good too) and if you have bokashi feed your vegan bokashi to the worms as well.

DankSwag


----------



## Organix420 (Feb 1, 2014)

Great Thread; Thanks nick17gar. I've been using this recipe during veg (per gallon):
2-3 Tbsp High N bat guano
1 Tbsp Water soluble mycorrhizae (Oregonism XL from roots organics)
1 Tbsp Unsulfured molasses

but now I'm about to go to flower and I'm modifying my recipe (per gallon):
2-3 Tbsp High phosphorus bat guano
2 cups worm castings
1 Tbsp Water soluble mycorrhizae (Oregonism XL from roots organics)
1 Tbsp Unsulfured molasses

I'm also considering adding roots organics HPK [0-5-4] which is basically bat guano and langbeinite. Does anybody think that the HPK will be too much? the instructions say use 1tbsp per gallon but I was going to use 1/4tbsp per gallon just in case.


----------



## thoumayest (Feb 1, 2014)

Many of us are just discovering this organic goodness 

Black Strap Molasses in GLASS ... not plastic. Insane relusts 

www.ebay.com/itm/141110606670?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649

that will worm castings = wow.


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## Nizza (Feb 1, 2014)

funny, i got a bottle of that stuff for wayyy cheaper at the local health food store, probably like 12$ or 20$... 35$ JESUS. http://www.amazon.com/Plantation-Organic-Blackstrap-Molasses-Bottle/dp/B000QV19BM


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## Organix420 (Feb 1, 2014)

thoumayest said:


> Many of us are just discovering this organic goodness
> 
> Black Strap Molasses in GLASS ... not plastic. Insane relusts
> 
> ...


The glass bottle is nice but the price is kind of steep.


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## NaturalWorksOrganics (Feb 1, 2014)

I get my organic blackstrap molasses for under $4 for 500ml at a health food store. I wouldn't pay extra for any molasses that says its specifically for plants, thats pure marketing bullshit imo. Mine seems to be working.


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## Mashpotato Johnson (Feb 1, 2014)

A good read on returning our depleted minerals back to our soil, and helping our own well being at the same time. Two quick reads:

ONE

TWO

These are article excerpts from Dr. Maynard Murray on his research (and newly re-published) Sea Energy Agriculture.

I found these PDF's on Project Avalon Forum : thread Sea Water Based Organic Fertilizer


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## smokin away (Feb 1, 2014)

Been getting into the organic tea ideas. Great thread with many great ideas. One idea I have not noticed is the idea of using a mixture of byproducts from past plants. I have been experimenting with a combo of leaves, stems and even the ash from past joints. Just about anything I would have normally discarded even seed. Last time I aerated with a aquarium pump in a five gallon bucket for about 10 days. Used it straight up and it makes my newbies sooo green. Can't wait to put something else in there. Just ground it up with a mini chopper and put it in an old sock and stuck it in a five gallon bucket of water. Made a batch last summer with the males stuffed in netted bag for about two weeks with no aeration and applied straight up with excellent results. Definitely better than anything I've used yet.


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## Wallflower1 (Feb 2, 2014)

Thanks! I do have a lot to learn and appreciate your input. I' m going to checkout the website now.


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## supertiger (Feb 23, 2014)

Interesting thread to say the least.


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## daysbetween420 (Mar 8, 2014)

do you recommend this for indoor grows? just wondering..i have had a lot of people trying to tell me indoor organic can be hard..but i believe! my babys are bout a foot and a half tall and so far so good. I'm using 707 organic soil and have fed with earth juice so far..thinkin bout starting to incorporate some horse manure tea..any insight is much appreciated thanx!


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## Thebulldog (Mar 11, 2014)

Hello Grow Masters,
white fuzz good on soil surface ? Yes ?
i have added 1 teaspoon blackstrap molasses to a batch of Advanced nutrients Sensi Bloom and added a aquarium hose bubbler,
for 24 hours, the tea wound up with stringy lumps floating in it, so I added it to the plant soil, next day there's white fuzzy growth.
what ya'll think ?


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## Thebulldog (Mar 14, 2014)

Thebulldog said:


> Hello Grow Masters,
> white fuzz good on soil surface ? Yes ?
> i have added 1 teaspoon blackstrap molasses to a batch of Advanced nutrients Sensi Bloom and added a aquarium hose bubbler,
> for 24 hours, the tea wound up with stringy lumps floating in it, so I added it to the plant soil, next day there's white fuzzy growth.
> what ya'll think ?


Hhmmmmmm personally I think ............. Hmmmmmmmmm


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## Vnsmkr (Mar 21, 2014)

That white fuzzy growth is microbes working


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## ProdigalSun (Mar 21, 2014)

I'm used to killing on sight, anything that even might look like white fuzzy growth.


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## FresnoFarmer (May 20, 2014)

@Thebulldog In my experience with brewing guano teas and such I have never gotten any stringy crap in the container. And only time I have ever gotten white fuzzy stuff on the soil it was mildew/mold. Not good imo.


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## 2times (May 20, 2014)

almost have all these teas made.
so far my ladies love them. I mean my soil, but ya know my ladies love the juices lol
i throw in a little coconut water in with the waterings, mmmmm
organics has been the best thing to enter my life

and yes you can do organics indoors
gotta be able to with stand the smell.
just proper ventalation


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## Old Busted Butt (May 29, 2014)

I use a cup composted cow manure and worm castings in paint strainers in a 2 1/2 gallon bucket, and had great success in 3 gallon pots. Now have 5 gallon paint buckets for pots and brewing tea. Using promix with myco, and mix tea 4water to 1 tea. And add humic and fumic acid, blackstrap molasses, ocean harvest kelp liquid,to the tea mix. Tea mix 3 times a week, water alternative days 3 times a week. And reuse the soil. Use LED's with 150 watt HPS to add UVB. Going to replace the HPS with fluorescent UVB light. At flowering going to add high K bat guano, and very very small amount of wood ash which is 50 rating P. The wood ash has to be from NON pressure treated wood. And very little of ash goes a very long way. Had buds everywhere on a Pineapple Express clone. But again, very little wood ash, and as a top dressing. Mixing the ash with water, you get lye, and not good for the ladies, use as top dressing. Test run worked very well. Will post picture of new grow. If you use an air stone and air pump for your teas, no bad odor.


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## keysareme (May 29, 2014)

I just extracted some compost tea from the collection tray of my worm bin.

Before I diluted it with filtered water it's pH was in the 5s now it's in the 6s and I have about twice as much.

But the EC, and I am glad I checked it before pouring some over four girls in flower, is 3.2?

Isn't this way to high?

Could I just furthur dilute the compost tea with more filtered water till I get a good EC? And if so what would that EC? Organic Soil. Thanks


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## zugbug16 (May 30, 2014)

wow, im thirsty for banana, thistle, orange, lemon, fish,ahhhaaa coffee, worm, gypsum, kumquat, garlic tea. with a side of oxygen ; GOT TEA??? oh yea any body got any ice!!!


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## keysareme (Jun 2, 2014)

daysbetween420 said:


> do you recommend this for indoor grows? just wondering..i have had a lot of people trying to tell me indoor organic can be hard..but i believe! my babys are bout a foot and a half tall and so far so good. I'm using 707 organic soil and have fed with earth juice so far..thinkin bout starting to incorporate some horse manure tea..any insight is much appreciated thanx!


Stay with the Compost/EWC Teas.


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## SouthernSoil* (Jun 9, 2014)

Anybody possibly use any of this ? Link 

I am actually looking for fish hydrolysate though. thank you


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## zugbug16 (Jun 11, 2014)

keysareme said:


> Stay with the Compost/EWC Teas.


I know exactly where you need to go immediately. I use kelp4less.com for most of my organic needs. you can buy the fish hydrolysate (sp?). but, I would recommend other products than the fish. you are paying for the shipping of mostly water $$ take some time to look at the fish hydro.. and maybe use one of the starter packs. I do not know what you need or your style is but, after I found this site on ebay or amazon, can't remember. I now use most of my products from him. the "organic mechanic". use the code: GREENTHUMB in all caps for a 10% discount. I learned that yesterday when I talked to one of the staff. now I use the citric acid for the ph down . it is the same thing as ph down on his web site except much less $$$ earnesto told me that on the phone= marketing term. I use the aminos from him now instead of the aminos from nectar for the gods (Athena's Aminas) that I was wasting $$$. "B" vitamins there as well. bloom khaos from NFTGods, the fulvic acid([email protected] great product/ helps get ph. down also) almost 90 bucks at monstergardens.com where I also shop, hydrogalaxy.com where I spent $124.00 last night.(meter) is the same thing as Hades down from NFTGods.On and on. just saves a ton of cash and get the results I want. I wish I had found this site long ago. free shipping. usps. gets there quickly. no labels bro! I got a cal. defec. and I got cal. nitrate. not organic but I have to fix my problem quickly; I have replaced most of plant food with them and now do not pay for shipping H2O around.
I do not know what the ph. up is . I use baking soda to fix that shit.
Zeus Juice= kelp + humic acid. mine is better. with fulvic acid
make your own bloom khaos with B vitamins.
let me know if you need some help. I need help still and always will.
randall henderson
hope that helps bro.


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## zugbug16 (Jun 11, 2014)

keysareme said:


> Stay with the Compost/EWC Teas.


I for got to add a few other places I get products that Ed Rosenthal uses in one of his books he edited. groworganic.com for the liquid fish food with humic acid. I have that and the kelp with humic acid. they use "Bull kelp". read about that on their site. which is awesome. I have that; and ascophyllum nodosum. It is the kelp that most people use.(maxicrop) got both. and many more things . one of the best and largest in the united states. Johnny's seed. and farmtek. go to peaceful valley farms in grass valley if you live close as I use to to live in Redding ca. by lake Shasta. hope that helps dood


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## Rod Roc (Jul 3, 2014)

dante76 said:


> i used this as an amendment to my base soil (Super Cools Super Soil Recipe) and 1/2 strength guano tea (guano soaking in water for 2 days).
> 
> Results were great! Right now most of my buds are curing but from some i've tested out tasted/smoked very smooth and i didn't have to flush either...another benefit to growing organic.


I can imagine friend, I have heard lots of good things about guano tea and medicinal cannabis or recreational too


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## FresnoFarmer (Jul 6, 2014)

Alfalfa tea


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## SouthernSoil* (Jul 6, 2014)

Greetings growers, i would like to ask what would you suggest is a good place to let my soil cook for a month ? I have a attic thats usually warm that i could fit the pots into or a shed but its still pretty cold in the shed, could i just put the pots in my grow room with lids over keeping a small hole open & vegging my seedlings on top of them ? 

Im planning on cooking for a month so im worried that it wont really get anywhere outside with the low temps. Peace & Respect : )


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## DonTesla (Jul 9, 2014)

greennewfie said:


> yeah you have to let the mirobes (bacteria and fungi) break down the organic material into nutriants takes a year or so too break down!!





WyoGrow said:


> If you just let it sit and do it's thing on it's own it can take a year. I finish compost from beginning to end in a tumbler in 6-8 weeks. You can speed up the process in a pile by turning it every week or two. Those little critters need oxygen to do their thang..... I can compost down lawn clippings in a little over a month by turning twice a week and keeping it damp and covered with a tarp.


True! with heavy bio-tivity, some layering, good sun, some moisture, aeration, and some kind of heat absorbant, you can make da mean custom humus in as little as 6 weeks, but lacking these, you are looking at a good few months, mon!


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## DonAlejandroVega (Jul 9, 2014)

DonTesla said:


> True! with heavy bio-tivity, some layering, good sun, some moisture, aeration, and some kind of heat absorbant, you can make da mean custom humus in as little as 6 weeks, but lacking these, you are looking at a good few months, mon!


I've found the best results came when I got a season ahead on my pile. I use last year's stuff this year.


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## zest (Jul 17, 2014)

hey guys, I was wondering if you guys could school me on foliar feeding with aloe vera? im finding very little information on the subject and Im really interested in using it to help with heat stress. The sun almost cooked one of my plants and want to avoid it next time it reaches those kind of temps. I just picked up some aloe vera juice and not sure if I should use it or not. thanks in advance.


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## Pattahabi (Jul 17, 2014)

zest said:


> hey guys, I was wondering if you guys could school me on foliar feeding with aloe vera? im finding very little information on the subject and Im really interested in using it to help with heat stress. The sun almost cooked one of my plants and want to avoid it next time it reaches those kind of temps. I just picked up some aloe vera juice and not sure if I should use it or not. thanks in advance.


Look for preservatives in the aloe juice. “Sodium Benzoate” is the one you want to avoid. Citric acid, Ascorbic acid, Potassium Sorbate, Lemon juice, etc. are the safe one’s you’ll find.

2oz liquid aloe per gallon water to foliar or drench.

P-


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## DonTesla (Jul 18, 2014)

Pattahabi said:


> Look for preservatives in the aloe juice. “Sodium Benzoate” is the one you want to avoid. Citric acid, Ascorbic acid, Potassium Sorbate, Lemon juice, etc. are the safe one’s you’ll find.
> 
> 2oz liquid aloe per gallon water to foliar or drench.
> 
> P-


Smoooth.
Yo what you say bout da coconut water, P!?


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## Pattahabi (Jul 18, 2014)

DonTesla said:


> Smoooth.
> Yo what you say bout da coconut water, P!?


Hey Don, I want to find out how and where the powder is made. All powdered varieties I have seen use tapioca dextrin. If I remember this was for clumping. Coconuts get shipped - not real fresh or sustainable imo. Liquid varieties the container goes in the land fill, and we have the preservatives. Tough call.

I've been using a little of the powdered. You can find this USDA organic certified - just watch out for any preservatives. I'm currently using navitas. There is also znaturals which I have not tried, but looks similar, if not better. The GF brought home a brand the other day that had citric acid in it. Possibly not a bad thing, but I try and go with as few ingredients as possible.

Also remember we get a lot of the same benefits from SST's - mainly cytokinins. I use a few more SSTs and a little less coconut water powder till I have time to dig deeper.

P-


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## DonTesla (Jul 19, 2014)

Pattahabi said:


> Hey Don, I want to find out how and where the powder is made. All powdered varieties I have seen use tapioca dextrin. If I remember this was for clumping. Coconuts get shipped - not real fresh or sustainable imo. Liquid varieties the container goes in the land fill, and we have the preservatives. Tough call.
> 
> I've been using a little of the powdered. You can find this USDA organic certified - just watch out for any preservatives. I'm currently using navitas. There is also znaturals which I have not tried, but looks similar, if not better. The GF brought home a brand the other day that had citric acid in it. Possibly not a bad thing, but I try and go with as few ingredients as possible.
> 
> ...


Very interesting, thanks Pat.. i guess i need a few coconut trees but in this climate no chance. So meanwhile ill keep my eyes open Tapioca dextrin and other prezo's as well as good Canadian Brands .. 

As for ur SST's, how do you work them into the input-rotation bruh?? Interested in sharpening the feed game.. -----Reespect.


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## SouthernSoil* (Aug 13, 2014)

Greetings growers : ) i have a few questions before i put all my ingredients together. 

1. Is it best to let the soil cook in the pots or in a tub ?
2. Is it better to cook it indoors or outdoors ? 
3. When i mix everything up, should i just water it or should i add something like the lacto bacillus in order to help the process ? 

Help will be kindly appreciated. Many thanks ! Peace


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## st0wandgrow (Aug 13, 2014)

SouthernSoil* said:


> Greetings growers : ) i have a few questions before i put all my ingredients together.
> 
> 1. Is it best to let the soil cook in the pots or in a tub ?
> 2. Is it better to cook it indoors or outdoors ?
> ...



1. I let my soil sit in a large container. Probably doesn't matter, but you'd have to wet it down more often if you put it in to a bunch of smaller containers

2. I leave mine in the basement. Outside would be fine too as long as you don't have extreme weather to deal with, or a ton of rain making it a soppy mess

3. I like to brew up a compost tea and wet my soil down with it to really jump start the inoculation. Lacto b would be just fine as well

Good luck


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## SouthernSoil* (Aug 13, 2014)

st0wandgrow said:


> 1. I let my soil sit in a large container. Probably doesn't matter, but you'd have to wet it down more often if you put it in to a bunch of smaller containers
> 
> 2. I leave mine in the basement. Outside would be fine too as long as you don't have extreme weather to deal with, or a ton of rain making it a soppy mess
> 
> ...


Thank you bro, appreciate the advice. I might have a rubber dustbin that hasnt been used for garbage purposes, ill have to see when i arrive at the location though then i can confirm the containers available. 

Might hit some frost until the end of the month possibly & the rain will be coming so i rate i will opt for the indoor option.

I forgot to add i havent made my lacto b, in flowering my tea needs the lacto b added after a 24hour bubble, not too sure how effective my tea will be in starting up the inoculation without the lacto b ?

Thank for your help again bro.


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## Pattahabi (Aug 13, 2014)

DonTesla said:


> Very interesting, thanks Pat.. i guess i need a few coconut trees but in this climate no chance. So meanwhile ill keep my eyes open Tapioca dextrin and other prezo's as well as good Canadian Brands ..
> 
> As for ur SST's, how do you work them into the input-rotation bruh?? Interested in sharpening the feed game.. -----Reespect.


Sorry, missed this. I use SST's at least once a week. I've been pretty haphazard with it. Hitting them with pretty much what ever, whenever. The only thing I try and stay away from is alfalfa seeds later in flower. I do use alfalfa seeds two weeks before till about two weeks into flower to reduce internodal space (tricantonal). I tend to do more corn later in flower, sunflower seeds or mung beans if I need something to sprout quick. I want to start trying them as an ipm spray due to the chitinase content. I'm kind of high and tired, yell if that didn't answer your question. 

From a discussion on another site, it sounds like there is a good possibility whole coconuts or canned coconut water will not supply the PGH's and PGR's originally thought. I need to do a little more reading/research.

P-


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## SouthernSoil* (Aug 14, 2014)

Hey Stow&grow, i forgot to add im using 1/3 Perlite 1/3 Peat 1/3 EWC


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## st0wandgrow (Aug 14, 2014)

SouthernSoil* said:


> Thank you bro, appreciate the advice. I might have a rubber dustbin that hasnt been used for garbage purposes, ill have to see when i arrive at the location though then i can confirm the containers available.
> 
> Might hit some frost until the end of the month possibly & the rain will be coming so i rate i will opt for the indoor option.
> 
> ...


The teas effectiveness is entirely dependent on the source of compost you're starting with. If you make your own compost/worm castings, or you have a local source of fresh compost, then your tea (given enough oxygen and a food stock) will have an abundance of micro life that you will be applying to your soil mix. Those microbes will get to work breaking down the organic amendments that you added to your soil while it's sitting, making them plant available once you plug a clone in there.

The lacto b is great, but not necessary to brew a compost tea imo.





SouthernSoil* said:


> Hey Stow&grow, i forgot to add im using 1/3 Perlite 1/3 Peat 1/3 EWC


Great! That's a solid base.


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## SouthernSoil* (Aug 14, 2014)

Thank you man, i opted for worm castings instead of compost, i have a few bags of compost but they have been sitting for a year outside so i was just planning on using them for the veggies. 

For the tea ill be using a cup of EWC, Molasses, fish hydrolysate & some organic chicken poop. Thanks to MadHam for base mix & tea !!
Could i ask is it better to use Sweet Molasses instead of blackstrap cause i know the blackstrap has sulfur in it ?

Would of loved to have gotten some Pumice for my mix but i couldnt afford a 100 litre bag including postage at this stage.

Last question i wanted to ask bro, how would you mix up a seedling mix with the peat,ewc&perlite? I was thinking if i should do 50/50 Peat/Perlite & then add a little bit of ewc?

Thanks again st0w, really appreciate it, im pretty confident this will turn out beautiful, so keen to mix it up. 



st0wandgrow said:


> The teas effectiveness is entirely dependent on the source of compost you're starting with. If you make your own compost/worm castings, or you have a local source of fresh compost, then your tea (given enough oxygen and a food stock) will have an abundance of micro life that you will be applying to your soil mix. Those microbes will get to work breaking down the organic amendments that you added to your soil while it's sitting, making them plant available once you plug a clone in there.
> 
> The lacto b is great, but not necessary to brew a compost tea imo.
> 
> Great! That's a solid base.


----------



## st0wandgrow (Aug 14, 2014)

SouthernSoil* said:


> Thank you man, i opted for worm castings instead of compost, i have a few bags of compost but they have been sitting for a year outside so i was just planning on using them for the veggies.
> 
> For the tea ill be using a cup of EWC, Molasses, fish hydrolysate & some organic chicken poop. Thanks to MadHam for base mix & tea !!
> Could i ask is it better to use Sweet Molasses instead of blackstrap cause i know the blackstrap has sulfur in it ?
> ...



Use unsulphered black strap molasses if you can find it. It's in pretty much every grocery store (at least around here).

For a seedling mix, you could go several directions. What I've been using lately is 50% soil mix, 25% ewc, and 25% rice hulls (or perlite, or whatever). You could also just use your base (1/3 peat, 1/3 ewc. 1/3 perlite ....without amendments added). Or you could use 50/50 EWC/perlite.

I think the important thing to keep in mind is that the seedlings don't meed much in the way of nutrients for a few weeks, and you don't want to have a medium for them that can really compact, starving the young roots of oxygen.


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## SouthernSoil* (Aug 14, 2014)

st0wandgrow said:


> Use unsulphered black strap molasses if you can find it. It's in pretty much every grocery store (at least around here).
> 
> For a seedling mix, you could go several directions. What I've been using lately is 50% soil mix, 25% ewc, and 25% rice hulls (or perlite, or whatever). You could also just use your base (1/3 peat, 1/3 ewc. 1/3 perlite ....without amendments added). Or you could use 50/50 EWC/perlite.
> 
> I think the important thing to keep in mind is that the seedlings don't meed much in the way of nutrients for a few weeks, and you don't want to have a medium for them that can really compact, starving the young roots of oxygen.


Once again, big thank you bro, i tried searching online at the differences between "Sweet" & "Blackstrap" dont really find much info although im assuming its the same without the sulfur. 

Ill take a look whats more abundant after mixing the base soil, didnt think of the root compaction but i will definitely keep that in mind. Just got to figure out now what size pots will suit the seedlings, i have small plastic bag pots which should be perfect & even better when transplanting. 

Im going to be absolutely mind blown, i dont think anybody ive bought from has grown this way, im already creaming ! ahhh


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## SpaaaceCowboy (Aug 16, 2014)

Hey guys...I just tossed a plant into flowering...It's just a plant that will fill space....Pretty soon it will be the only plant that I will have flowering....

Q: Is it possible to brew a tea for just one plant ?  The plant is only in a 1 gallon air-pot right now....It will either be transplanted to a 2 gallon or 5 gallon air-pot....

Is it a waste to brew for just one plant in a small container ? Or is it possible to brew just a small amount so I am not wasting ingredients ?

thanks, SC


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## DonTesla (Aug 18, 2014)

SpaaaceCowboy said:


> Hey guys...I just tossed a plant into flowering...It's just a plant that will fill space....Pretty soon it will be the only plant that I will have flowering....
> 
> Q: Is it possible to brew a tea for just one plant ? The plant is only in a 1 gallon air-pot right now....It will either be transplanted to a 2 gallon or 5 gallon air-pot....
> 
> ...


You can def brew just for one plant, id just make a small tea.. One litre is plenty for a one gallon pot. Only thing bruv, if shes in 12 and 12 alredi and u up-pot now ur gonna stress her out risk making her hermi on u. Re veg her after this crop, and up pot then. Pull ur half ounce or 2 and go bigger next time. We did one gallon smart pots, then 3s, then 5s (pail) next is 7. Loved em all but dialling in, best regards.. dt

Ps If u make a 1L tea for ur water day u wouldnt have to dilute it (gentler for microlife) and u cud apply it in stages while aerating it.. Since 36 a 42 hours is ideal for a micro life inoculation, u cud start it at 10pm two nights before the watering day, start watering at 10am, give her a few ladles every couple hours, bam, she'd be in heaven.. all u would need is a tsp of molasses and 1.5Tbsp of worm castings.. Then if u can get something to reduce internodal spacing / triancantonal Growth hormone for early flowering ur laughing


----------



## SpaaaceCowboy (Aug 18, 2014)

DonTesla said:


> You can def brew just for one plant, id just make a small tea.. One litre is plenty for a one gallon pot. Only thing bruv, if shes in 12 and 12 alredi and u up-pot now ur gonna stress her out risk making her hermi on u. Re veg her after this crop, and up pot then. Pull ur half ounce or 2 and go bigger next time. We did one gallon smart pots, then 3s, then 5s (pail) next is 7. Loved em all but dialling in, best regards.. dt
> 
> Ps If u make a 1L tea for ur water day u wouldnt have to dilute it (gentler for microlife) and u cud apply it in stages while aerating it.. Since 36 a 42 hours is ideal for a micro life inoculation, u cud start it at 10pm two nights before the watering day, start watering at 10am, give her a few ladles every couple hours, bam, she'd be in heaven.. all u would need is a tsp of molasses and 1.5Tbsp of worm castings.. Then if u can get something to reduce internodal spacing / triancantonal Growth hormone for early flowering ur laughing


thanks for that info Don....That makes sense....two grows ago I transplanted 5 or 6 plants after I started 12-12...If I remember right I had like 2 or 3 males, and 2 or 3 hermies.....


----------



## cannakis (Aug 19, 2014)

sorethumb said:


> i just started a compost pile i read its not useable for a year


yeah for cold composting, hot composting though gives you beautiful black mould in 18 days, you just have to have it 3'high and wide minimum and turn it every other day.


greennewfie said:


> yeah you have to let the mirobes (bacteria and fungi) break down the organic material into nutriants takes a year or so too break down!!


----------



## DonTesla (Aug 21, 2014)

SpaaaceCowboy said:


> thanks for that info Don....That makes sense....two grows ago I transplanted 5 or 6 plants after I started 12-12...If I remember right I had like 2 or 3 males, and 2 or 3 hermies.....


if the flower tent is busy, what a Don like to do is take a wolf pack of babies (already germinated and vegging) and put them under the light at 14 and 10 until they show sex. that way well before the actual flip they've been sexed. then we just get her in her final pot at least 10 days before the big Flip. the beauty of 14 and 10 is it sexes them but u can also go back to 18 and 6 or whatever you like (17/7?) without shocking em. Big up n good luck mang


----------



## SpaaaceCowboy (Aug 21, 2014)

DonTesla said:


> if the flower tent is busy, what a Don like to do is take a wolf pack of babies (already germinated and vegging) and put them under the light at 14 and 10 until they show sex. that way well before the actual flip they've been sexed. then we just get her in her final pot at least 10 days before the big Flip. the beauty of 14 and 10 is it sexes them but u can also go back to 18 and 6 or whatever you like (17/7?) without shocking em. Big up n good luck mang


Awesome ! thanks a lot for that info !!! Never caught that one on any of the weed forums...This is a great skill to know when it comes to gardening !!! 

I'm going to journal that post of yours ! One of the best pieces if info I have acquired !

Gracias Amigo !!!!


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## ch377y (Aug 26, 2014)

to the guy that made this thread...you the real MVP


----------



## DonPetro (Sep 7, 2014)

DonTesla said:


> if the flower tent is busy, what a Don like to do is take a wolf pack of babies (already germinated and vegging) and put them under the light at 14 and 10 until they show sex. that way well before the actual flip they've been sexed. then we just get her in her final pot at least 10 days before the big Flip. the beauty of 14 and 10 is it sexes them but u can also go back to 18 and 6 or whatever you like (17/7?) without shocking em. Big up n good luck mang


Where ya @DonTesla? How is the ChernobylX doing?


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## cannakis (Sep 18, 2014)

nick17gar said:


> Organic feeding provides great results. A good organic grow starts with the soil. (look at subcool's section on that. he knows soil.) Im going to go over strictly what t
> o do once the plant is in the dirt, and you still need to feed them something. Feeding the plants the right stuff is key to successful grows, and knowing what to feed and when, is needed for every grower.
> 
> If your plant has some sort of issue, theres threads on that https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/488004-guide-nutrient-deficiency-toxicity.html . this thread is gonna cover what do to AFTER you notice a deficiency, or just to keep a healthy garden. this will be using only organic nutrients. Ive purchased bottles of guano, and molasses and wondered... what now? well this is what now.
> ...


Mr. Nick, have you ever made a tea with orange and lemon peels? Would the fruit tea be tha essentially? Would a lemon orange peel tea give it a fresh clean taste if used in flowering?


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## SouthernSoil* (Oct 4, 2014)

Greetings everybody : ) hope everybody is doing good ! Im aching to mix up my soil but just want to confirm how much alfalfa/lucerne (dried grass form ) do you guys add to your mixes ? Im also struggling to decide where to let my mix sit & cook, i was thinking of keeping them in the pot & vegging the babies on top of them, is it nescessary to turn the mix every now and then or do you guys no till & let it cook up ? Will appreciate any help ! Thank you : )


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## Pattahabi (Oct 4, 2014)

SouthernSoil* said:


> Greetings everybody : ) hope everybody is doing good ! Im aching to mix up my soil but just want to confirm how much alfalfa/lucerne (dried grass form ) do you guys add to your mixes ? Im also struggling to decide where to let my mix sit & cook, i was thinking of keeping them in the pot & vegging the babies on top of them, is it nescessary to turn the mix every now and then or do you guys no till & let it cook up ? Will appreciate any help ! Thank you : )


I'm going to first say you can add like 1/2c alfalfa per cu ft. Some people may add more. 

With that said, if you do not add the alfalfa to your mix, hydrate your peat before you add the other ingredients, you can mix and plant same day. No 'cooking' is required. Coot had said cooking wasn't necessary, and we tested it out. Three weeks ago a friend and I mixed up a cu yrd of soil, and we put it into a 200 gallon smart pot and added three plants that day. They vegged for a week, and are now 2 weeks into flower and look absolutely stunning.

Then use your alfalfa and kelp and make a couple teas during flowering.

my 2¢,
P-


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## SouthernSoil* (Oct 4, 2014)

Pattahabi said:


> I'm going to first say you can add like 1/2c alfalfa per cu ft. Some people may add more.
> 
> With that said, if you do not add the alfalfa to your mix, hydrate your peat before you add the other ingredients, you can mix and plant same day. No 'cooking' is required. Coot had said cooking wasn't necessary, and we tested it out. Three weeks ago a friend and I mixed up a cu yrd of soil, and we put it into a 200 gallon smart pot and added three plants that day. They vegged for a week, and are now 2 weeks into flower and look absolutely stunning.
> 
> ...


Thanks P, would you say half a cup to each pot then ? 

I have the alfalfa or lucerne which they call it here which is more higher in nitrogen, i will have to cut it up into smaller pieces though.

Did you mean i should hydrate the base mix or only the peat at first ? Cause im going to be vegging in smaller pots so the roots dont get too lazy so the main pots will stay unused for a bit while i encourage some breakdown of nutrients, i was just wondering when i let them sit in their pots would i have to turn it at all ?


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## Pattahabi (Oct 4, 2014)

SouthernSoil* said:


> Thanks P, would you say half a cup to each pot then ?
> 
> I have the alfalfa or lucerne which they call it here which is more higher in nitrogen, i will have to cut it up into smaller pieces though.
> 
> Did you mean i should hydrate the base mix or only the peat at first ? Cause im going to be vegging in smaller pots so the roots dont get too lazy so the main pots will stay unused for a bit while i encourage some breakdown of nutrients, i was just wondering when i let them sit in their pots would i have to turn it at all ?


Make sure the peat is fully hydrated by itself before you add anything to it. This process can often take over night, or at least a few hours.

On the mixing, I either try to have a cover crop planted in the pots, or I keep it in rubbermaid containers. You don't want the soil to dry out. If it dries, your micro life will die. You also don't want to keep it too wet. Keeping this balance, is exactly like keeping the balance of moisture in your pots while your plants grow. Find the sweet spot, keep it there.

Peace!
P-


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## SouthernSoil* (Oct 4, 2014)

Pattahabi said:


> Make sure the peat is fully hydrated by itself before you add anything to it. This process can often take over night, or at least a few hours.
> 
> On the mixing, I either try to have a cover crop planted in the pots, or I keep it in rubbermaid containers. You don't want the soil to dry out. If it dries, your micro life will die. You also don't want to keep it too wet. Keeping this balance, is exactly like keeping the balance of moisture in your pots while your plants grow. Find the sweet spot, keep it there.
> 
> ...


Thank you again man, ill wet the peat before adding it to the mix then.

I have a garden shed which i can leave the container in, i could also keep it behind my lounge although my main plan was to mix it up and leave it in the 20 gal pots cooking in the grow room, you dont recommend that right ? 

Im a little worried i over water, how often would you normally water yours or add a compost tea ? 

Appreciate the help.


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## Pattahabi (Oct 4, 2014)

SouthernSoil* said:


> Thank you again man, ill wet the peat before adding it to the mix then.
> 
> I have a garden shed which i can leave the container in, i could also keep it behind my lounge although my main plan was to mix it up and leave it in the 20 gal pots cooking in the grow room, you dont recommend that right ?
> 
> ...


Anytime! Imo you can keep it wherever you want as long as it stays properly moist and in a decent environment (don't leave it in 110 degree sun, etc). In a perfect world, my choice is to mix the soil, immediately plant a cover crop (I use clover), keep the clover alive until you are ready to plant. 

Watering is a tricky deal, and is very dependant on several factors like how big are your pots? How big are your plants? How much aeration do you have? Ventilation? Heat/rh, etc, etc. What I do is make sure I keep the topsoil moist by misting it with water either everyday, or every other. Then once or twice a week I do 'deep waterings' where I might add double or triple the mist amount. My plants are in 10-20 gallon containers and a ball park would be 1/4 gallon daily and then maybe 3/4 of a gallon once or twice a week depending. Stick you fingers in the top soil, stick your fingers in the drainage holes. Try and get an idea how much moisture they are retaining. 

Make sure you use mulch! Not negotiable. 
P-


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## SouthernSoil* (Oct 4, 2014)

Pattahabi said:


> Anytime! Imo you can keep it wherever you want as long as it stays properly moist and in a decent environment (don't leave it in 110 degree sun, etc). In a perfect world, my choice is to mix the soil, immediately plant a cover crop (I use clover), keep the clover alive until you are ready to plant.
> 
> Watering is a tricky deal, and is very dependant on several factors like how big are your pots? How big are your plants? How much aeration do you have? Ventilation? Heat/rh, etc, etc. What I do is make sure I keep the topsoil moist by misting it with water either everyday, or every other. Then once or twice a week I do 'deep waterings' where I might add double or triple the mist amount. My plants are in 10-20 gallon containers and a ball park would be 1/4 gallon daily and then maybe 3/4 of a gallon once or twice a week depending. Stick you fingers in the top soil, stick your fingers in the drainage holes. Try and get an idea how much moisture they are retaining.
> 
> ...


The clover option sounds good ! i have vetch seeds although but they more a winter crop i rate. i might just stick to the pots in the tent, they will be with the babies vegging, so it will be pretty warm and not alot of heat as i have a decent inline installed, i would like to get a tub but im pretty much drained from buying and buying.

im using 4 x 5 gallon pots in a 3x3x6 foot tent, ill check out the moisture from the bottom and top man : ) im sure ill be okay, could the alfalfa act as a good mulch man ?

Respect !


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## Pattahabi (Oct 4, 2014)

My experience with alfalfa is it can be pretty damn potent. Therefore, I do something like 1c in 5 gallons water and bubble. As a general rule of thumb, I use all recipes at half strength the first time just to make sure everything jives in my system. So I might even do 1/2c the first time.

Personally, I'm a bigger fan of alfalfa SST's. I've used them for a few cycles now at the beginning of flower, and I'm really liking the results.

Put the pots in your veg area especially if they get a little light. Then sow in a cover crop till you need it. It will make the soil even better by the time you use it.

P-


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## SouthernSoil* (Oct 4, 2014)

Pattahabi said:


> My experience with alfalfa is it can be pretty damn potent. Therefore, I do something like 1c in 5 gallons water and bubble. As a general rule of thumb, I use all recipes at half strength the first time just to make sure everything jives in my system. So I might even do 1/2c the first time.
> 
> Personally, I'm a bigger fan of alfalfa SST's. I've used them for a few cycles now at the beginning of flower, and I'm really liking the results.
> 
> ...


You right bro and i have lucerne which is apparently even more potent, cause my base mix is 1/3 peat, 1/3 perlite, 1/3 EWC but i was thinking of mixing some cut up lucerne in place for some of the ewc, ill definitely check out the stores near by if they stock any clover seeds but otherwise will have to order online, im also using a mix of about 40% peat, 40 % perlite & 20% ewc to raise my seeds until i can transplant them into the 5 gallons, i was wondering if its better to use rigid plastic pots or the thin bag like pots ? 

Would you say the clovers would do okay with about 14-16 hours of light on a 250w hps ? It is aircooled though, ran my 600w hps & was sitting on 82 F that was on the lowest fan setting, thanks for the awesome advice man   : )


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## SouthernSoil* (Oct 5, 2014)

just started to do the veg pots, put the peat in & the wetting has commenced, once they done ill start with the big pots, pretty annoying because i kind of have to hide everything and be discrete or i get questioned.

I was thinking instead of chopping up the alfalfa/lucerne, couldnt i just use it as mulch ? Surely the organisms will start breaking down the bottom of the mulch and ill add a little more if it gets done, sure sounds like a good way to stop the soil from getting uneven on top & retaining moisture


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## SouthernSoil* (Oct 7, 2014)

Tent is finally properly setup, wow what a mission to stealth a 3x3 ..... running the 250w MH for veg & temps are on 25 C / 77 F , Fan setting on 1 , 600w gets a bit heated but hopefully for flowering that should be okay with the help of a oscillating fan aswell.

I have planted all 4 seeds in 1.5 litre pots , wett down my peat in my 5 gallon / 20 litre pots , cut up some alfalfa / lucerne into finer pieces, i have 250 grams of chopped up now, should i just split that in 4 and add 62.5 g to each pot then ? My mix is going to be consisting of 30 % Peat, 30 % Perlite , 30 % Castings & 10 % of chopped alfalfa / lucerne hay. How much is advisable ?

I think its taking some time for me to take in that the room is finally complete, been a really crazy mission, finally...

If i may ask though, do you people turn your soils ? If so would it be advisable to cook my soil in their pots & then when turning is needed just dump them into a wheel barrow to turn ? 

Other than that think im all set and done ! Wow


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## Pattahabi (Oct 7, 2014)

I believe most people use approx 1/2-1c of alfalfa meal per cu ft.


p-


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## SouthernSoil* (Oct 7, 2014)

Thank you bud, do you know if thats dried powdered or just cut up lucerne ? Seems like i have about a cubic foot in each pot, appreciated.


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## Pattahabi (Oct 7, 2014)

SouthernSoil* said:


> Thank you bud, do you know if thats dried powdered or just cut up lucerne ? Seems like i have about a cubic foot in each pot, appreciated.


SS, that measurement is for the dried 'meal'.

Do you thermo compost? This would be an excellent material for your greens.

Peace!
P-


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## SouthernSoil* (Oct 7, 2014)

Thank you man, i dont thermo compost at the moment, live in a small place but will be moving to a suitable place, so you wouldnt recommend putting this in ? its not green or dried, id say its about 70% dry used for hamster bedding,i was thinking of putting it in the blender though really a hassle to find the meal here at the moment, thank you again. Respect


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## Pattahabi (Oct 7, 2014)

SS, I don't have enough experience adding it in this way to really give you a good answer. My experience with adding the meal is, if you don't let it break down a while before planting into it, your plants can burn. If I need N a quick botanical tea or EWC top dressing usually does the trick. I tend to err on it's easier to add in later then take out later.

Does that mean you shouldn't use it? I have no idea. Someone could be doing it with great results, but it ain't me lol!

Peace!
P-


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## SouthernSoil* (Oct 8, 2014)

Pattahabi said:


> SS, I don't have enough experience adding it in this way to really give you a good answer. My experience with adding the meal is, if you don't let it break down a while before planting into it, your plants can burn. If I need N a quick botanical tea or EWC top dressing usually does the trick. I tend to err on it's easier to add in later then take out later.
> 
> Does that mean you shouldn't use it? I have no idea. Someone could be doing it with great results, but it ain't me lol!
> 
> ...


I understand what you mean man, the mix im using calls for this meal or rabbit pellets but originally it calls for compost although instead im using EWC in my mix so im not sure if the alfalfa and ewc will have a shitload of N ? im definitely going to let it sit for 4-5 weeks though before using it though, Regards & Thank you


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## SouthernSoil* (Oct 8, 2014)

I ended up blending the hay lol , came out pretty fine so i just added about 2 cups seeing as its not in powder form, all mixed sitting in the pots now, should i water heavily ? maybe half a gallon in each ?


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## st0wandgrow (Oct 8, 2014)

SouthernSoil* said:


> I ended up blending the hay lol , came out pretty fine so i just added about 2 cups seeing as its not in powder form, all mixed sitting in the pots now, should i water heavily ? maybe half a gallon in each ?


Water until it's evenly moist, not wet.

Do you have any seeds that you can lay down as a cover crop? Clover, Vetch, etc?


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## SouthernSoil* (Oct 8, 2014)

Appreciate the reply bro, seems pretty moist, i didnt however water while mixing it up though, the peat was already wet as i had done it the day before, i have vetch seeds ( vicia villosa ) although they are for winter growth apparently, ill have to order clover online if it wont do, another thing is im still trying to dial in my tent because its reaching about 80-85f during the day, unless i veg during the night which will keep temps more in line. Peace


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## greasemonkeymann (Oct 9, 2014)

Pattahabi said:


> I believe most people use approx 1/2-1c of alfalfa meal per cu ft.
> 
> 
> p-


I tend to agree with you, alfalfa is some potent stuff, I hesitate to use it at that rate, but i'm a lil extra careful with alfalafa, manures, and molasses... so I use my super scientific measuring application is a light palmful per 2 cubic feet, my guess is a palmful is about 1/8 of a cup.
But I don't use anything as a primary nutrient, I mix a WHOLE bunch of different stuff together in small amounts, then mix the dry nutes together and go from there, I like to look at it like a diet, your body does better with the nutrients being sourced from a broad type of foods, and I use that theory and apply it to my ladies
not saying you MUST do it that way, just that I find it much harder to get a deficiency if you are using a broad range of organic nutrients


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## greasemonkeymann (Oct 9, 2014)

SouthernSoil* said:


> Appreciate the reply bro, seems pretty moist, i didnt however water while mixing it up though, the peat was already wet as i had done it the day before, i have vetch seeds ( vicia villosa ) although they are for winter growth apparently, ill have to order clover online if it wont do, another thing is im still trying to dial in my tent because its reaching about 80-85f during the day, unless i veg during the night which will keep temps more in line. Peace


 if your concern is that they are at 80-85 degrees a day, I wouldn't sweat that, as long as you aren't tryin to clone in that heat, an established plant will be fine, course some varieties may be sensitive but I've *never *ever seen any problems from heat, under a hundred degrees, and even then, I've grown hundreds of plants outside with temps *regularly* getting above a hundred and they did just fine, as long as you HYDRATE.
don't sweat it my friend, unless you see wilting or something like that, but honestly, i'd be surprised if you have any problems from 85 deg weather.


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## SouthernSoil* (Oct 10, 2014)

greasemonkeymann said:


> I tend to agree with you, alfalfa is some potent stuff, I hesitate to use it at that rate, but i'm a lil extra careful with alfalafa, manures, and molasses... so I use my super scientific measuring application is a light palmful per 2 cubic feet, my guess is a palmful is about 1/8 of a cup.
> But I don't use anything as a primary nutrient, I mix a WHOLE bunch of different stuff together in small amounts, then mix the dry nutes together and go from there, I like to look at it like a diet, your body does better with the nutrients being sourced from a broad type of foods, and I use that theory and apply it to my ladies
> not saying you MUST do it that way, just that I find it much harder to get a deficiency if you are using a broad range of organic nutrients


Thank you greasemonkey, i guess i added about a cup to each cf. which i thought would make up for the little bit of missing EWC, i got the mix from mad hamish but didnt ask how much alfalfa i should add, in anycase he's been using the mix & the all purpose tea with no deficiencies so i rate im pretty set. 

I am however a little worried cooking the soil in the pots however, i will keep it moist but to turn or not is the question ? pattahabi mentioned clover seeds will be good, i was thinking if i could keep the clover vegging in the main pots while the babies veg in the smaller pots, you think its a good idea ?


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## SouthernSoil* (Oct 10, 2014)

greasemonkeymann said:


> if your concern is that they are at 80-85 degrees a day, I wouldn't sweat that, as long as you aren't tryin to clone in that heat, an established plant will be fine, course some varieties may be sensitive but I've *never *ever seen any problems from heat, under a hundred degrees, and even then, I've grown hundreds of plants outside with temps *regularly* getting above a hundred and they did just fine, as long as you HYDRATE.
> don't sweat it my friend, unless you see wilting or something like that, but honestly, i'd be surprised if you have any problems from 85 deg weather.


I understand what you mean by plants growing fine outside, i also had a outdoor once that took those kind of temps with no problem, i was however thinking that possibly they grow at a much quicker rate when dialed in around 26 or not ? Will keep them very well hydrated lets just hope i dont overhydrate them lol.

Would you think i have a higher chance of hermies if i have lights on at night though ? My room gets insane sun during the day, it hits 91 f during the day and 77 f at night, so it kind of balances out the temps then, i wont be able to study in my room if i actually hit lights on during the day, it will swelter my balls off ! lol there's no other option night lights it is !


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## greasemonkeymann (Oct 10, 2014)

SouthernSoil* said:


> I understand what you mean by plants growing fine outside, i also had a outdoor once that took those kind of temps with no problem, i was however thinking that possibly they grow at a much quicker rate when dialed in around 26 or not ? Will keep them very well hydrated lets just hope i dont overhydrate them lol.
> 
> Would you think i have a higher chance of hermies if i have lights on at night though ? My room gets insane sun during the day, it hits 91 f during the day and 77 f at night, so it kind of balances out the temps then, i wont be able to study in my room if i actually hit lights on during the day, it will swelter my balls off ! lol there's no other option night lights it is !


 honestly, and this is a lil inflammatory to some, i'm not sure much has to do with hermaphroditism, I've done some insanely stressful things to my plants and haven't seen issues with hermies, but also my strains don't have that issue anyways, sooo, my answer may not be helpful, but I ALWAYS flower my plants at night and give them the day for darkness. In the winter I reverse that, to keep them warm. BUT if your plant has hermie issues to start, then any little tiny thing may lead it to popping pollen.
Long answer, sorry.


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## greasemonkeymann (Oct 10, 2014)

SouthernSoil* said:


> Thank you greasemonkey, i guess i added about a cup to each cf. which i thought would make up for the little bit of missing EWC, i got the mix from mad hamish but didnt ask how much alfalfa i should add, in anycase he's been using the mix & the all purpose tea with no deficiencies so i rate im pretty set.
> 
> I am however a little worried cooking the soil in the pots however, i will keep it moist but to turn or not is the question ? pattahabi mentioned clover seeds will be good, i was thinking if i could keep the clover vegging in the main pots while the babies veg in the smaller pots, you think its a good idea ?


hmm, a cup a cubic foot is a lot of alfalfa, not to mention it'll take a while to break down, i'd cut that soil when you pot them, maybe a third by weight? You might be ok, but it'd be a bitch to have to wait a month after planting to find out, and it's not easy to fix afterwards (being non-soluble, mostly).
I know I keep sayin it, but molasses, manures, and alfalfa are the *easiest* organic amendment that you can overdo on, and all three can lock your plant out, and piss her off.
Don't get me wrong I LOVE all three of those amendments, but ya got use a lil.


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## SouthernSoil* (Oct 10, 2014)

greasemonkeymann said:


> hmm, a cup a cubic foot is a lot of alfalfa, not to mention it'll take a while to break down, i'd cut that soil when you pot them, maybe a third by weight? You might be ok, but it'd be a bitch to have to wait a month after planting to find out, and it's not easy to fix afterwards (being non-soluble, mostly).
> I know I keep sayin it, but molasses, manures, and alfalfa are the *easiest* organic amendment that you can overdo on, and all three can lock your plant out, and piss her off.
> Don't get me wrong I LOVE all three of those amendments, but ya got use a lil.


I hope it should be okay dude... i put 2.19 ounces in each 4 gallon container.. got my lacto b ready so im going to bubble it and add i rate.. Thank you dude


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## Pattahabi (Oct 10, 2014)

Throw a cheap plant form home depot or something in the soil first before you put your ladies in there. I've learned the hard way (more then once) it pays to test it out.

P-


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## Pattahabi (Oct 10, 2014)

I absolutely run my lights at night to conserve power/reduce heat. Imo weak/sick plants hermie much quicker then healthy ones. The slightest little light leak can set them off, but with strong healthy plants they don't seem to skip a beat.

my 2¢,
P-


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## greasemonkeymann (Oct 10, 2014)

Pattahabi said:


> I absolutely run my lights at night to conserve power/reduce heat. Imo weak/sick plants hermie much quicker then healthy ones. The slightest little light leak can set them off, but with strong healthy plants they don't seem to skip a beat.
> 
> my 2¢,
> P-


 not to mention, electricity is usually cheaper at non-peak hours, at least in CA it is.


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## greasemonkeymann (Oct 10, 2014)

Pattahabi said:


> Throw a cheap plant form home depot or something in the soil first before you put your ladies in there. I've learned the hard way (more then once) it pays to test it out.
> 
> P-


damn good advice, anything I do that is a new experience or an experiment and I do it on my houseplants first, just try to test it on a plant with similar growth and "diet". in other words, a fast-growing, nitrogen-loving, neutral ph-liking, high drainage-needing plant.
I have used multiple bamboo, roses, tomatoes, lavender and a tree dahlia for this purpose. I'd say the roses, tomatoes and the dahlia are the best representations of being similar to cannabis


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## SouthernSoil* (Oct 10, 2014)

Pattahabi said:


> Throw a cheap plant form home depot or something in the soil first before you put your ladies in there. I've learned the hard way (more then once) it pays to test it out.
> 
> P-


Lol i think it would be fine bro, i guess if i put a little more alfalfa than what was called for it shouldnt lock my plant right out? cause like i said it wasnt powdered. Good tip to test out future mixes though ! Respect


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## SouthernSoil* (Oct 10, 2014)

Pattahabi said:


> I absolutely run my lights at night to conserve power/reduce heat. Imo weak/sick plants hermie much quicker then healthy ones. The slightest little light leak can set them off, but with strong healthy plants they don't seem to skip a beat.
> 
> my 2¢,
> P-


Thank you for clearing that up bro, makes way more sense, ill be keeping the tent light proof at all costs.


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## SouthernSoil* (Oct 10, 2014)

Electricity is cheaper here at off peak hours, makes way more sense : ) I wanted to ask do you guys filter your intakes at all ?


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## greasemonkeymann (Oct 10, 2014)

SouthernSoil* said:


> Electricity is cheaper here at off peak hours, makes way more sense : ) I wanted to ask do you guys filter your intakes at all ?


 yes I filter all air going into my rooms, I use an engine air filter for an old 5.8 liter ford engine, i think the truck 5.0 liter fits too, not the stang 5.0, or the conical filter for many of the diesels. it's cheaper lasts forever and pretty sure its better for everything.


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## Pattahabi (Oct 10, 2014)

SouthernSoil* said:


> Lol i think it would be fine bro, i guess if i put a little more alfalfa than what was called for it shouldnt lock my plant right out? cause like i said it wasnt powdered. Good tip to test out future mixes though ! Respect


Hey SS! Alfalfa, although on the box it says meal, is not a 'meal' the way other products are. Ie, neem 'meal' is made from the left over material after the neem seed is pressed for the oil. Where as alfalfa is the raw plant material. Basically you are going to distract the microbes from doing the job you want them to do. So, if it helps, whether it is 'powdered' or not, it can still cause plants to burn if not properly broken down. A quick way of getting around this is to use it in the compost pile.



SouthernSoil* said:


> Thank you for clearing that up bro, makes way more sense, ill be keeping the tent light proof at all costs.


I find light leaks to be the #1 cause of hermi plants (with being weak/sick ofc). However, remember any stress can cause a plant to hermi. the plant thinks it's dying and it is doing what it can to procreate. 



SouthernSoil* said:


> Electricity is cheaper here at off peak hours, makes way more sense : ) I wanted to ask do you guys filter your intakes at all ?


I don't intake from the outside in, but from the inside out. Are you worried about bugs?

Peace!
P-


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## SouthernSoil* (Oct 10, 2014)

greasemonkeymann said:


> yes I filter all air going into my rooms, I use an engine air filter for an old 5.8 liter ford engine, i think the truck 5.0 liter fits too, not the stang 5.0, or the conical filter for many of the diesels. it's cheaper lasts forever and pretty sure its better for everything.


Lol you must have one bad ass fan bro


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## SouthernSoil* (Oct 10, 2014)

Pattahabi said:


> Hey SS! Alfalfa, although on the box it says meal, is not a 'meal' the way other products are. Ie, neem 'meal' is made from the left over material after the neem seed is pressed for the oil. Where as alfalfa is the raw plant material. Basically you are going to distract the microbes from doing the job you want them to do. So, if it helps, whether it is 'powdered' or not, it can still cause plants to burn if not properly broken down. A quick way of getting around this is to use it in the compost pile.
> 
> 
> I find light leaks to be the #1 cause of hermi plants (with being weak/sick ofc). However, remember any stress can cause a plant to hermi. the plant thinks it's dying and it is doing what it can to procreate.
> ...


Thank you for P, it was definitely straight form because i broke it down finer in a blender lol, we will have to see what happens though

Im worried about bugs no doubt, i was looking at lint filters that they use on the clothes drier machines but seems to be hard to find, need something thin that allows good airflow while still catching most of the finer stuff.


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## Pattahabi (Oct 10, 2014)

SouthernSoil* said:


> Thank you for P, it was definitely straight form because i broke it down finer in a blender lol, we will have to see what happens though
> 
> Im worried about bugs no doubt, i was looking at lint filters that they use on the clothes drier machines but seems to be hard to find, need something thin that allows good airflow while still catching most of the finer stuff.


Well, I hope your soil works out for you. Let us know how it goes.

If you go to the hydrostore and hand them your wallet, they will find you some kind of 'cannabis' bug filter. I'm wondering if there's not a better solution. I know I have a hell of a time with venting. Currently, I'm pulling the hot air from the top of the room, through the carbon filter, through the hoods, and then exhausting out. This, and another carbon exhausting straight out, pulling hot air, keeps me good to go. Keep in mind I'm running several lights.

Another option might be to pull from outside, run through the hoods, and vent back outside. I'm thinking no matter what you use for an inline filter, it's going to significantly restrict air.

If none of these ideas work, I have an idea for an intake into a bigger box with a filter, and pulling from the other end of the box. ;; shrugs ;;

Peace!
P-


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## SouthernSoil* (Oct 10, 2014)

Pattahabi said:


> Well, I hope your soil works out for you. Let us know how it goes.
> 
> If you go to the hydrostore and hand them your wallet, they will find you some kind of 'cannabis' bug filter. I'm wondering if there's not a better solution. I know I have a hell of a time with venting. Currently, I'm pulling the hot air from the top of the room, through the carbon filter, through the hoods, and then exhausting out. This, and another carbon exhausting straight out, pulling hot air, keeps me good to go. Keep in mind I'm running several lights.
> 
> ...


Thank you bud, will definitely let you know, im also pulling from a carbon filter and pushing through the hood to outside, only using a 250w for veg & 600w for flowering, going to make some calls tomorrow hopefully some shop has stock of this filter 






Peace !


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## SouthernSoil* (Oct 11, 2014)

Managed to find one and took another from my pc in the meanwhile, both kandi kush & the bag seed have germinated in my seedling mix of peat, perlite & ewc, not good news for the church & jack flash though


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## AllenHaze (Oct 11, 2014)

SouthernSoil* said:


> Thank you for P, it was definitely straight form because i broke it down finer in a blender lol, we will have to see what happens though
> 
> Im worried about bugs no doubt, i was looking at lint filters that they use on the clothes drier machines but seems to be hard to find, need something thin that allows good airflow while still catching most of the finer stuff.


You can use panty hose to cover you're duct. Works great. They're cheap, replaceable and easy to find. GL


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## AllenHaze (Oct 11, 2014)

You can use panty hose for your filter. Cheap, replaceable and easy to find. Also, careful exhausting you're grow room to the outside because all that hot air will be easy to pick up with IR. A commonly overlooked detail. Like the RF that is emitted from many ballasts which has resulted in visits from cable technicians for some people. GL


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## SouthernSoil* (Oct 11, 2014)

AllenHaze said:


> You can use panty hose for your filter. Cheap, replaceable and easy to find. Also, careful exhausting you're grow room to the outside because all that hot air will be easy to pick up with IR. A commonly overlooked detail. Like the RF that is emitted from many ballasts which has resulted in visits from cable technicians for some people. GL


I was thinking of panty hose lol probably not the best but regarding price & availability its a really good alternative no doubt, thank you for that man.

Im currently exhausting outside there's mosquito screen about a foot before the exhaust hole, im not sure if they scan around here though, does it look obvious from IR scanning or could it look like something else ? 

Ive briefly read about the RF produced by ballasts, got me worried here man, would be awesome if you could explain a little more on the IR & RF, Peace


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## AllenHaze (Oct 12, 2014)

SouthernSoil* said:


> I was thinking of panty hose lol probably not the best but regarding price & availability its a really good alternative no doubt, thank you for that man.
> 
> Im currently exhausting outside there's mosquito screen about a foot before the exhaust hole, im not sure if they scan around here though, does it look obvious from IR scanning or could it look like something else ?
> 
> Ive briefly read about the RF produced by ballasts, got me worried here man, would be awesome if you could explain a little more on the IR & RF, Peace


No problem. The heat that is exhausting from your house would have to be a lot I'm sure. Not sure how much exactly. Strong fans that are blowing hot air out and away for your house would be pretty obvious I'd think. Maybe tap into a chimney vent or exhaust into another room of your house? if it is winter you could probably get away with exhausting out an attic (heat is on, heat rises) It all depend on your situation, you could be fine.
The RF thing has spooked a lot of people over the years. I can say personally I have had the cable guy show up at my house telling me that he knows for sure the rf leak is coming from my home. He wanted to come in. luckily I was able to talk him away and after looking online I was able to fix the problem and prevent any future visits. 
Ballasts put out a ton of RF. Some ballast have no or very weak RF shielding around the assembly so all that RF leaks out everywhere. Cable companies and phone companies get fined for RF leaks in there areas so cable technicians (I'm sure there is a more technical title ) get paid to drive around and look for these RF leaks. It is literally their job to find your ballast (in a sense) Many other things leak RF too ie: a loose cable wire can give a false reading to the technician. Rf can also interfere with your tv or your neighbors. You can check to see if you have a leak by using an AM radio. You can google it and you'll find other threads about it. (tip: if you want to look on a specific site like this one for example type this first - Site:rollitup.org or Site:[enter other site here] ) What I did was tighten any connections, shorten any extension cords as much as I could, build a faraday cage around my ballast (prob unnecessary) and run my lights at night (they generally don't look for leaks at night in my area) GL.


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## SouthernSoil* (Oct 12, 2014)

AllenHaze said:


> No problem. The heat that is exhausting from your house would have to be a lot I'm sure. Not sure how much exactly. Strong fans that are blowing hot air out and away for your house would be pretty obvious I'd think. Maybe tap into a chimney vent or exhaust into another room of your house? if it is winter you could probably get away with exhausting out an attic (heat is on, heat rises) It all depend on your situation, you could be fine.
> The RF thing has spooked a lot of people over the years. I can say personally I have had the cable guy show up at my house telling me that he knows for sure the rf leak is coming from my home. He wanted to come in. luckily I was able to talk him away and after looking online I was able to fix the problem and prevent any future visits.
> Ballasts put out a ton of RF. Some ballast have no or very weak RF shielding around the assembly so all that RF leaks out everywhere. Cable companies and phone companies get fined for RF leaks in there areas so cable technicians (I'm sure there is a more technical title ) get paid to drive around and look for these RF leaks. It is literally their job to find your ballast (in a sense) Many other things leak RF too ie: a loose cable wire can give a false reading to the technician. Rf can also interfere with your tv or your neighbors. You can check to see if you have a leak by using an AM radio. You can google it and you'll find other threads about it. (tip: if you want to look on a specific site like this one for example type this first - Site:rollitup.org or Site:[enter other site here] ) What I did was tighten any connections, shorten any extension cords as much as I could, build a faraday cage around my ballast (prob unnecessary) and run my lights at night (they generally don't look for leaks at night in my area) GL.


Thank you for the informative post man, im only running 1 x 6" inline fan which is set on level 1 so its cruising at a very chilled speed, i wouldnt say alot of heat is coming out of the window at the moment but with the 600w there will be more, couldnt they mistake it for a 3 some though ? Lol : )

I did a quick search and alot of posts came up about the RF problem of technicians visiting, ill definitely take a look at the AM radio test man, currently im using a 250w magnetic ballast for veg & then im switching over to my electronic ballast 600w for flower, this is my 600w ballast
http://www.accendoelectronics.com/dhid-retrofit.shtml

By short cable do you mean even the cable running to the light ? My cable from the ballast to the wall plug is very short, running my lights at night aswell but ill check how to test for any leaks, appreciate it bud, thing is i have a pc, hub & ups about 3 foot from the ballast should that be fine ? Respect


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## AllenHaze (Oct 12, 2014)

I couldn't really say about whether or not it would affect your other electronics. I know it can interfere with cable signals. Yea, even that long cord from the ballast to the light will emit RF but there is not much you can do about that short of buying a shorter cable if you can find it so I'd focus on the other cables. I might be a little extra paranoid for the first few week or months just to get a feel for how the neighborhood responds to your grow not so much in the obvious ways either (like RF, IR, maybe the use extra use of deodorizers will arouse suspicion in neighbors) That's me though. I'm a little extra cautious sometimes lol. GL man.


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## SouthernSoil* (Oct 12, 2014)

AllenHaze said:


> I couldn't really say about whether or not it would affect your other electronics. I know it can interfere with cable signals. Yea, even that long cord from the ballast to the light will emit RF but there is not much you can do about that short of buying a shorter cable if you can find it so I'd focus on the other cables. I might be a little extra paranoid for the first few week or months just to get a feel for how the neighborhood responds to your grow not so much in the obvious ways either (like RF, IR, maybe the use extra use of deodorizers will arouse suspicion in neighbors) That's me though. I'm a little extra cautious sometimes lol. GL man.


everything seemed fine when i was running it but ill definitely keep a look out and do the test, thank you for the heads up man i appreciate it, its always better to be cautious i know what you mean. Peace


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## greasemonkeymann (Oct 13, 2014)

SouthernSoil* said:


> Lol you must have one bad ass fan bro


 not too crazy, its a 6" vortex, rated at 449 cfm, it doesn't get too hot in there, and I have my lights on at night. I admit the beefy engine filter I got was from a customer's truck, he was upgrading to a K&N filter, so I got the old one, and i'm not sure the volume that a 5.8l v8 gobbles, but it breathes perfectly fine for my vortex (which I love, I have over 100,000 hrs of usage on it, works as good as new)


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## SouthernSoil* (Oct 14, 2014)

Those vortex's push ! my 6" is only like 350 cfm, you made a awesome plan cause that filter must keep your grow insanely clean bro ! 

Wanted to ask a question regarding the 5 gallon/20litre pots that are cooking, i want to add some of the lacto bacillus serum that i made, should i just dilute it with water & give each pot about half a gallon ? Or should i bubble the lacto b with fish fert, molasses or ewc ? 

Any short instruction will be awesome : ) Thank you


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## Pattahabi (Oct 14, 2014)

Just a thought, but Lacto B is an anaerobic bacteria correct?


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## SouthernSoil* (Oct 14, 2014)

well the final stage of making it is anaerobic, the first stage is aerobic


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## greasemonkeymann (Oct 14, 2014)

SouthernSoil* said:


> Those vortex's push ! my 6" is only like 350 cfm, you made a awesome plan cause that filter must keep your grow insanely clean bro !
> 
> Wanted to ask a question regarding the 5 gallon/20litre pots that are cooking, i want to add some of the lacto bacillus serum that i made, should i just dilute it with water & give each pot about half a gallon ? Or should i bubble the lacto b with fish fert, molasses or ewc ?
> 
> Any short instruction will be awesome : ) Thank you


 hell, I got a 12" that does almost 1200cfm, but I that one is overkill, I had that one running with my three 600w and I thought it was gonna suck in neighborhood cats and wild squirrels. I had that one on my room and you could feel the vacuum with your eardrums it was nuts..it just sits in my garage, course I got it for free Been thinking about building a big greenhouse and I think it'll work nicely for keeping it cool.


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## jackblaster (Feb 24, 2015)

Of course, its only just before reading this I post my question! Nice thread..


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## Yodaweed (Mar 18, 2015)

I have 2 brew recipe's that I use , one is for veg one is for flower
VEG: 3 gallons R/O water, 3 cups Ancient Forest Humus, 3 cups Earthworm Castings, Peruvian Bird Buano 3 tablespoons, Mexican Bat Guano 3 tablespoons, 1/2 cup of molasses. Bubble 24 hours with a strong air stone
Flower: 3 gallons R/O water, 3 cups ancient forest humus , 3 cups earthworm castings, 3 table spoons Indonesian bat guano, 1/2 cup molasses. Bubble 24 hours with a strong air stone.


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## Indian Spices (Apr 27, 2015)

hello

I really begin to like this Forum. 

To have a plant that is thriving and happy, you need to understand the complex relationship between your plant and the soil. 

Back in the days, we weren’t going organically because of a trend. It was like.. we had nothing else to deal with in the first place… 

In my country, today, you can get really easy to all that bottled nutes and stuff.. and with internetshops… you probably can get all the ingredients on your „must have“ list… but that is not really my way.. you know.. its not just about the ingredients (if they are organic or not).. it is about the whole…

Please… this should not be seen as an attack to some.. just as a reminder  You know, I am a happy man and I wouldn’t attack someone who has other thinking and that.. we are all able to discuss and maybe.. I can enlighten some on that road. 

I live far away from any source of bat guano.. to ship it to me looks like a waste of transport.. I can easily source some other ingredient, which I can buy in my local store. The effects are nearly identical. so I am trying to use my resources thoughtful

BUT … I have some bat guano on my shelf… but be aware.. and do not overdue it.. maybe thats my point of my speak. 

Earlier.. we were mixing our own soil. I see it is a need of todays grower to do it also.. some stay with their bottles… but others go the oldschool way  

We didn’t have fancy stuff… we would blend our soil with good old compost.. with some animal poop, lime and that was it. 

I had to laid down growing for a few years, which was really sad.. 

But now I am able to cultivate medicine again and my patients and I are very happy  

What I use at the moment are following ingredients:
good base soil (peat, ewc, perlite mix) and I add:
more ewc
more perlite (not too much, though)
bat guano (I actually will replace it with high P chicken poop) 
dolomite
rock dust
mycorrhiza
alfalfa meal
aloe powder or fresh aloe juice  
kelp meal (rarely, but its good)
blackstrap molasses

mmmm I think thats it… 

my local grow store guy have his „secret“ nutrient line. Its a mix of organic stuff combined with minerals. Although I am for the organic way, its the first time I will try some „bottled“ nutes.


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## vtmaster (Apr 27, 2015)

hey guys ...m doing a new grow again...my last grow i screwd it up cuz of N toxicity and hav to start all over again...this time i dont want to make the mistake of over feeding...
can u guys help me with the soil ratio mixture of plant such that from seed till harvest i dont hav to add any more nutrient and just water with simple water and hence help myself frm nt being tempted to over feed my plants...i hav searchd a lot on the net and all i get is real vague answers 
what i wanna know is what is the ratio of 
coco peat :normal soil: bone meal: blood meal : banana peel : vermicompost 
to prepare the soil befor planting ?...
i hav the ratio as out of 10 
3 parts of coco for loose soil and moisture retention 
4 parts of soil
1 part of vermicompost 
and remaining 2 parts mix of blood , bone meal and banana peel ....
u guys think this ratio is good to start the soil of so that i never need to fertilize it again if m jus growing fr a period of 3-4 months 
1 month veg and remaining 2-3 months flowering ?
and if i at all see nutrient deffeciency later on 
i shall add DAP slowly for little N and P
and banana peel water for K and other micro nutrients ?
thanks guys if u can help me out wiith this...thats all i need cuz the rest is all sorted out for me


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## Indian Spices (Apr 28, 2015)

vtmaster said:


> coco peat :normal soil: bone meal: blood meal : banana peel : vermicompost
> to prepare the soil befor planting ?...
> i hav the ratio as out of 10
> 3 parts of coco for loose soil and moisture retention
> ...


I think you need some more micro nutes!



and dont forget lime for the cal/mag and as pH buffer!


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## vtmaster (Apr 28, 2015)

Indian Spices said:


> I think you need some more micro nutes!
> 
> 
> 
> and dont forget lime for the cal/mag and as pH buffer!


ok thnx ....but u think this ratio is fine to last it till harvest without adding any more fert except for micro nutes ?....
can i jus giv it water


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## Indian Spices (Apr 28, 2015)

mmmm I thought about it.. maybe your soil gets a bit hot... I mean 2 parts blood and bone sounds like alot... I ussually use it 2-3 tablespoons per gallon soil...

but dont quote me on that.

I think you would not need more nutes.

kelp meal or liquid kelp would be a great addition


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## vtmaster (Apr 29, 2015)

Indian Spices said:


> mmmm I thought about it.. maybe your soil gets a bit hot... I mean 2 parts blood and bone sounds like alot... I ussually use it 2-3 tablespoons per gallon soil...
> 
> but dont quote me on that.
> 
> ...


hey thnx for ur info..yeah i need to buy kelp me fr micro nutes ...any ways thnx for ur advice ...it was f great help


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## Indian Spices (Apr 29, 2015)

vtmaster said:


> hey thnx for ur info..yeah i need to buy kelp me fr micro nutes ...any ways thnx for ur advice ...it was f great help


no problem. I am glad to help... always!

I am here to learn and share. good luck with your plants!


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## Nursejanna (May 8, 2015)

Any ideas for boosting bud size (organic flower)? I have a pretty good soil mix, and have been giving liquid bone meal, sea mag, and kelp meal. Have heard to add molasses in the last 2 weeks, but not sure how much? Thanks in advance!


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## vtmaster (May 8, 2015)

try dis out instead of molasses....take a banana peel...n submerge in a litre of water for a day ...den dilute that water 2-3 times more and water it ...banana peel contains as much as 47% K and 2-3% P...and not just that ..it contains other trace elemets as Ca Mg Zn Fe...etc....the best source of natural fert i wld think...and the best part is at no cost  ....best f luck .....but b careful of overfeeding ...cuz i had made that mistake....Remember ...it contains high amounts of K so increase ur dose step by step..start with littl ...n later experience will help after few grows with it


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## Nursejanna (May 10, 2015)

vtmaster said:


> try dis out instead of molasses....take a banana peel...n submerge in a litre of water for a day ...den dilute that water 2-3 times more and water it ...banana peel contains as much as 47% K and 2-3% P...and not just that ..it contains other trace elemets as Ca Mg Zn Fe...etc....the best source of natural fert i wld think...and the best part is at no cost  ....best f luck .....but b careful of overfeeding ...cuz i had made that mistake....Remember ...it contains high amounts of K so increase ur dose step by step..start with littl ...n later experience will help after few grows with it


Thank you!


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## Slimedog1 (Jun 9, 2015)

2 tbs liquid kelp, 1# worm castings and 1 tsp humic acid mixed in 5 gallons of water....aerated for 24- 48 hours then applied as a foliage spray. It can also be used as a soil drench.Apply in early morning or better yet in the early evening.


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## Darth Vapour (Jun 9, 2015)

curious why would anyone need to feed there organic soils when it should have enough from start to finish ??


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## Chester da Horse (Jun 9, 2015)

Darth Vapour said:


> curious why would anyone need to feed there organic soils when it should have enough from start to finish ?? View attachment 3437265


cos you recycle it and its a living resource?


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## Darth Vapour (Jun 10, 2015)

Chester da Horse said:


> cos you recycle it and its a living resource?


Where on earth does it rain TEAS naturally ?? ,, If were going to Fake organics then by all means giver shit.. But if were really doing it right like nature intended that is??.
Everything man touches he fucks up thems are facts ..
Were growing MJ like its a special needs plant , we worry to much on them billions of micro's that die and reproduce at a steady rate..so in effect were even fucking up there cycle.
By prolonging there death . and again natural cycle
We get into this notion that by adding things like myco's will indeed help when in fact to much will deter other VERY importance fungus and bacteria from getting proper populations ,, numbers when we do not really have the equation to really know WTF i mean were dabbing in no mans land mother nature has things in balance do we
Again know where near what mother nature intended and again MAN sticking his nose into the equation and fucking it all up
We forget the process in which living plants feed and attract the micro's so again were screwing with the cycle and also forget how the cycle really works ..
I am very surprised that the top soil biologist are not stoners ??
To be honest were just dabbing into soil biology compared to other scientific area's yet the stoner forums seem to have it down pact ...
Or do they
funny shit this spring i spread 200,000 tons of manure god dam wish i would of took pictures ...
same thing will apply in fall , sure you smell the shit in the air sometimes ??
But that doesn't matter with our crops that get planted in spring and harvested in fall with no teas added amazes me when i look at my true organic garden in my back yard .. that i have never amended other then spring and fall dig culverts and place greens , grass clipping you name it and year after year our little personal garden grows a abundance of veggies same thing applies for this years MJ out door grow just ADD WATER 
I'll make sure to post updates and a monster sized plant that only got water ( Rain Water ) that is through out its life transplanting this week into 30 gallon then final 150 gallons actual this year plan is planting it in compost bin  still another 12 weeks min of veg should be good size .  . but most importantly only water fed..
I guess they should make it like 3 types of organic growing ...
mother natures way
mans organics
what would be another name folks ???


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## greasemonkeymann (Jun 10, 2015)

vtmaster said:


> try dis out instead of molasses....take a banana peel...n submerge in a litre of water for a day ...den dilute that water 2-3 times more and water it ...banana peel contains as much as 47% K and 2-3% P...and not just that ..it contains other trace elemets as Ca Mg Zn Fe...etc....the best source of natural fert i wld think...and the best part is at no cost  ....best f luck .....but b careful of overfeeding ...cuz i had made that mistake....Remember ...it contains high amounts of K so increase ur dose step by step..start with littl ...n later experience will help after few grows with it


black strap molasses is a better supplement than a banana tea, in my experience.

Look at what BSM has in it.
Either way I would HIGHLY suggest NOT using molasses n the last two weeks.
Trust me.
If you want to mess around with fruit, make a fermented fruit tea, waaaaay more available phosphorus.
But again, adding anything different the last two weeks probably isn't gonna help much.
All depends on whats in your soil though.. and the strain, the size of the container, etc.


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## greasemonkeymann (Jun 10, 2015)

Nursejanna said:


> Any ideas for boosting bud size (organic flower)? I have a pretty good soil mix, and have been giving liquid bone meal, sea mag, and kelp meal. Have heard to add molasses in the last 2 weeks, but not sure how much? Thanks in advance!


don't do that, next time amend with good amounts of fish bone meal, and rock phosphates.
Trust me, if you give them molasses specifically during the last two weeks you'll be sorry.
Been there man.. just tryin to help.
In my experience, a topdress of a nutrient heavy leaf compost is the single best thing to use when they are running light on food.
That's assuming you simply can't give them a bigger pot, which is ALWAYS the best thing, I prefer to not to add anything at all to them besides water and compost.
What I WOULD recommend though.... is tryin out SSTs, those have some interestingly frosty effects on budding plants.


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## Incognigrow (Jun 10, 2015)

greasemonkeymann said:


> don't do that, next time amend with good amounts of fish bone meal, and rock phosphates.
> Trust me, if you give them molasses specifically during the last two weeks you'll be sorry.
> Been there man.. just tryin to help.
> In my experience, a topdress of a nutrient heavy leaf compost is the single best thing to use when they are running light on food.
> ...


What are SSTs?


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## testiclees (Jun 10, 2015)

greasemonkeymann said:


> don't do that, next time amend with good amounts of fish bone meal, and rock phosphates.
> Trust me, if you give them molasses specifically during the last two weeks you'll be sorry.
> Been there man.. just tryin to help.
> In my experience, a topdress of a nutrient heavy leaf compost is the single best thing to use when they are running light on food.
> ...


Do you believe that SST's make sense throughout flowering?


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## greasemonkeymann (Jun 11, 2015)

testiclees said:


> Do you believe that SST's make sense throughout flowering?


I just do them twice per flowering, three times if you count coco-water.
I do very, very little to the plants when they flower, just let them go to town, I've found the more I interfere, often the less I get.
And honestly it's not like overnight you see huger trichome development, it very well could be in my head, but I don't think so.
Along with my compost, my homemade EWC, and all the other weird things I do, it very well may be solely because I wanna believe that i'm unique.
But considering that, I've grown the same clone-only strains that everyone else does, and when they smoke mine, they literally accuse me of growing a different strain, that's happened with the blue dream, purple paralysis, and the jack herer.
SO maybe? Maybe not? But I have a lot of other "hair-brained" growing techniques


Incognigrow said:


> What are SSTs?


Sprouted seed teas.


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## Darth Vapour (Jun 11, 2015)

Hell i put used bacon grease in my compost bin , about 1 - 2 cups a month.. when i go to transplant clones into ground i make 50 gallons per plant 40 percent top soil 40 percent compost from my bin 10 percent grass clippings 5 percent cardboard ( Worm food ) and 5 percent live worms
water only planted these clones may 24th only thing i do is add grass fresh grass clippings every couple of weeks no teas


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## Incognigrow (Jun 11, 2015)

greasemonkeymann said:


> I just do them twice per flowering, three times if you count coco-water.
> I do very, very little to the plants when they flower, just let them go to town, I've found the more I interfere, often the less I get.
> And honestly it's not like overnight you see huger trichome development, it very well could be in my head, but I don't think so.
> Along with my compost, my homemade EWC, and all the other weird things I do, it very well may be solely because I wanna believe that i'm unique.
> ...


Thanks everyone left me hanging. Gonna research that.


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## testiclees (Jun 11, 2015)

greasemonkeymann said:


> I just do them twice per flowering, three times if you count coco-water.
> I do very, very little to the plants when they flower, just let them go to town, I've found the more I interfere, often the less I get.
> And honestly it's not like overnight you see huger trichome development, it very well could be in my head, but I don't think so.
> Along with my compost, my homemade EWC, and all the other weird things I do, it very well may be solely because I wanna believe that i'm unique.
> ...


Ive used sst's for a while to speed up veg growth. Just recently i read a hyroot post where using sst straight through flowering is suggested. I tested it out weeks 5-10 flowering and it seemed to bring on the frost. The first few times i mixed it with a ~25ppm.agsil solution..Those particular applications seemed to elicit the most pronounced response.

Those buds are about to be harvested. They are impressive. Ill likely post a pic when i chop.


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## greasemonkeymann (Jun 11, 2015)

Those buds are about to be harvested. They are impressive. Ill likely post a pic when i chop.[/QUOTE]
my experiences as well, i also prefer it over coco-water because coco-water is loaded with potassium, my soil has enough of that, and I've slowed flowering due to too much potassium before..
Yrs ago when i thought BSM was a miracle bud-developer..


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## testiclees (Jun 11, 2015)

greasemonkeymann said:


> Those buds are about to be harvested. They are impressive. Ill likely post a pic when i chop.


my experiences as well, i also prefer it over coco-water because coco-water is loaded with potassium, my soil has enough of that, and I've slowed flowering due to too much potassium before..
Yrs ago when i thought BSM was a miracle bud-developer.. [/QUOTE]
Ya i grow with docs brix kit. i avoid k as much as possible. That includes zero use of ordinary garden compost. I do grow red worms and feed em scraps of mj and other selected appropriate grub.

I used the agsil at the super low rate because i was showing a bit of k deficiency.
High k, to some, is equated with lower quality and lower nutritional density.


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## greasemonkeymann (Jun 11, 2015)

testiclees said:


> my experiences as well, i also prefer it over coco-water because coco-water is loaded with potassium, my soil has enough of that, and I've slowed flowering due to too much potassium before..
> Yrs ago when i thought BSM was a miracle bud-developer..


Ya i grow with docs brix kit. i avoid k as much as possible. That includes zero use of ordinary garden compost. I do grow red worms and feed em scraps of mj and other selected appropriate grub.

I used the agsil at the super low rate because i was showing a bit of k deficiency.
High k, to some, is equated with lower quality and lower nutritional density.[/QUOTE]
no garden compost?!
well.. shit.. that's one of my secret weapons....
pure humus and composted amendments... and bazilions of worms


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## Darth Vapour (Jun 11, 2015)

grease monkey you forgot FAT


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## testiclees (Jun 11, 2015)

greasemonkeymann said:


> Ya i grow with docs brix kit. i avoid k as much as possible. That includes zero use of ordinary garden compost. I do grow red worms and feed em scraps of mj and other selected appropriate grub.
> 
> I used the agsil at the super low rate because i was showing a bit of k deficiency.
> High k, to some, is equated with lower quality and lower nutritional density.


no garden compost?!
well.. shit.. that's one of my secret weapons....
pure humus and composted amendments... and bazilions of worms[/QUOTE]


Ya it seems counter intuitive but based on soil analysis, compost (depends on source) is gonna bring up the K. In high brix style the Ca is way higher and K is kept to a minimum.

This is not something everyone subscribes to but it embodies the mineral ratios advocated by Reams, Albrecht and others. They base their approach partially on brix readings. Soil analysis is an essential starting point when taking the high brix path.
Compost is nearly always too high in K. Also overly abundant organic matter does not sustain the correct environment for sufficient microorganism processing of soil minerals.

Im not an expert on this school of thought. There are loads of interesting reads onlins regarding high brix. John Kempf, a frequent ACRES contributor, has some youtube talks on the topic. He is well respected by farmers in my neck of thewoods.


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## greasemonkeymann (Jun 11, 2015)

Darth Vapour said:


> grease monkey you forgot FAT


yeaaa... not totally sure on using that, but i know you say you have great results from it... And i respect that, for sure.
my issue is two things
One, if i do cook bacon (mmmmm) i use the leftover grease to fry me up some eggs (pancakes made with bacon grease? Yummmm)
And Two...
my dog is spoiled... i started drizzling a speck of bacon grease on her dry dog food and she went nutso over it..
So yeaaa...
not any extra really...
plus we have mountain lions around here... like literally photographed ON our mountain, paw-prints and all...
My dog is a pitbull but she is only about 50lbs, and mountain lions are ambush predators.. if they can kill a 150 or 200 lb deer in one bite, they can kill a pitt.
I don't know if i could literally survive if my dog was killed by a cougar. She's my best buddy.
just look at her..


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## greasemonkeymann (Jun 11, 2015)

testiclees said:


> no garden compost?!
> well.. shit.. that's one of my secret weapons....
> pure humus and composted amendments... and bazilions of worms



Ya it seems counter intuitive but based on soil analysis, compost (depends on source) is gonna bring up the K. In high brix style the Ca is way higher and K is kept to a minimum.

This is not something everyone subscribes to but it embodies the mineral ratios advocated by Reams, Albrecht and others. They base their approach partially on brix readings. Soil analysis is an essential starting point when taking the high brix path.
Compost is nearly always too high in K. Also overly abundant organic matter does not sustain the correct environment for sufficient microorganism processing of soil minerals.

Im not an expert on this school of thought. There are loads of interesting reads onlins regarding high brix. John Kempf, a frequent ACRES contributor, has some youtube talks on the topic. He is well respected by farmers in my neck of thewoods.[/QUOTE]
hmm, that's interesting.
To make my compost i use probably 75% leaves, 24% redwood pineneedles, and the remaining one percent is the goodies.
fish bone meal, neem meal, shrimp meal, crab meal, kelp meal, LOTS of alfalfa (i use it as my N source to activate the thermophilic breakdown)
Hmm lets see what else... oh, minerals, langbeinite, greensand, a lil leftover azomite.
Fresh bull kelp right from the beach...
It's the best stuff, at least for me, it fixes damn near everything.
hell even a compost tea knocked back my mites a lil bit too, course that could be just from spraying them, but either way.
not to mention a compost tea will erase powder mold too, works like magic there.
I honestly wish i started composted back in the 90s
I'd be* the* grow maestro if had.


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## mouse1818 (Jun 11, 2015)

nick17gar said:


> Organic feeding provides great results. A good organic grow starts with the soil. (look at subcool's section on that. he knows soil.) Im going to go over strictly what to do once the plant is in the dirt, and you still need to feed them something. Feeding the plants the right stuff is key to successful grows, and knowing what to feed and when, is needed for every grower.
> 
> If your plant has some sort of issue, theres threads on that https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/488004-guide-nutrient-deficiency-toxicity.html . this thread is gonna cover what do to AFTER you notice a deficiency, or just to keep a healthy garden. this will be using only organic nutrients. Ive purchased bottles of guano, and molasses and wondered... what now? well this is what now.
> 
> ...


What would be a good simple veg tea to help my plant grow more?


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## testiclees (Jun 11, 2015)

mouse1818 said:


> What would be a good simple veg tea to help my plant grow more?


sst will work great if your conditions are good.


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## greasemonkeymann (Jun 11, 2015)

mouse1818 said:


> What would be a good simple veg tea to help my plant grow more?


alfalfa, kelp and molasses.
OR fish hydrosolate, kelp meal, and BSM.
OR comfrey tea.
BUT before doing any of this make sure you NEED to feed, more often than not it's not a deficiency that slows growth, usually its other things


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## mouse1818 (Jun 11, 2015)

testiclees said:


> sst will work great if your conditions are good.


What is sst?


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## mouse1818 (Jun 11, 2015)

greasemonkeymann said:


> alfalfa, kelp and molasses.
> OR fish hydrosolate, kelp meal, and BSM.
> OR comfrey tea.
> BUT before doing any of this make sure you NEED to feed, more often than not it's not a deficiency that slows growth, usually its other things


I just want to give my plant a boost in veg it seems like its growing slow maybe I'm under watering? I water it every other day with 15 fluid ounces. It dries out pretty fast now.


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## Darth Vapour (Jun 11, 2015)

mouse1818 said:


> What would be a good simple veg tea to help my plant grow more?


urine 

Grease i here yeah on mountain lions / Cougars and although people tend to think pits are tough
a cougar will lick it up in a heart beat hell a full grown bald eagle will take out a pit in a second ..
to combat Cougar problems you need one of these  270 pound monster with a stronger bite force then a lion one killing machine head the size of a Grizzlies


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## mouse1818 (Jun 11, 2015)

mouse1818 said:


> What is sst?


Never mind just used my head and goggled it. Sounds awesome I'm going to try it.


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## mouse1818 (Jun 11, 2015)

Darth Vapour said:


> urine
> 
> Grease i here yeah on mountain lions / Cougars and although people tend to think pits are tough
> a cougar will lick it up in a heart beat hell a full grown bald eagle will take out a pit in a second ..
> to combat Cougar problems you need one of these  270 pound monster with a stronger bite force then a lion one killing machine head the size of a Grizzlies


Its interesting you say urine because in my organic gardening book says urine is high in nitrogen although it has to be composted first.


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## greasemonkeymann (Jun 11, 2015)

Darth Vapour said:


> urine
> 
> Grease i here yeah on mountain lions / Cougars and although people tend to think pits are tough
> a cougar will lick it up in a heart beat hell a full grown bald eagle will take out a pit in a second ..
> to combat Cougar problems you need one of these  270 pound monster with a stronger bite force then a lion one killing machine head the size of a Grizzlies


I totally agree on the urine.
ANND holy shit man... that dog would cost me more than my rent in food alone!
That thing would EAT my pit...
Shit i would be afraid to go to sleep next to that thing...
Fun-fact.. did you know that the german shepherd has a bite force THREE times the PSI that a pitbull does?


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## mouse1818 (Jun 11, 2015)

testiclees said:


> sst will work great if your conditions are good.


I wonder how good a pumpkin seed sprout tea would be for flowering oh man all that phosphorus and potassium...


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## greasemonkeymann (Jun 11, 2015)

mouse1818 said:


> Its interesting you say urine because in my organic gardening book says urine is high in nitrogen although it has to be composted first.


Absolutely not true, a bladder full in a five gallon bucket is THE best fast acting nitrogen supplement.
If you ARE having a nitro def, you'll see a difference in about two to three days with urine.
Just make 100% SURE it is a nitro def though.
And maybe pop a couple mulitvitamins about four hrs prior too...
Neon-glow-in-the-dark urine...
From what I've researched, @ a dilute rate of 12/1 its roughly a 14-0-0 nutrient.
So sorta around the same as blood meal.


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## mouse1818 (Jun 11, 2015)

greasemonkeymann said:


> Absolutely not true, a bladder full in a five gallon bucket is THE best fast acting nitrogen supplement.
> If you ARE having a nitro def, you'll see a difference in about two to three days with urine.
> Just make 100% SURE it is a nitro def though.
> And maybe pop a couple mulitvitamins about four hrs prior too...
> ...


Yea I had a mag def so I probably wont use urine.


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## testiclees (Jun 11, 2015)

mouse1818 said:


> I wonder how good a pumpkin seed sprout tea would be for flowering oh man all that phosphorus and potassium...



Never sprouted punkin seeds. But its not npk that makes sst work. Sst.is effective because of the enzymes. That is also why sst has a very short shelf life.

Also as far as kelp in aact ...microscopy shows that, for most situations, kelp inhibits the desired biota when brewing compost tea. If you are brewing for npk and trace elements then it would not matter.


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## greasemonkeymann (Jun 11, 2015)

mouse1818 said:


> Yea I had a mag def so I probably wont use urine.


you absolutely sure its a mag def?
In organics its not a common def
You can give it some by giving it a BSM tea.
Simple and fast.
Plus other micro nutes too.
just be SURE it is a def...
Just saying, like 98% of the time in a built soil it's not a def.


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## greasemonkeymann (Jun 11, 2015)

testiclees said:


> Never sprouted punkin seeds. But its not npk that makes sst work. Sst.is effective because of the enzymes. That is also why sst has a very short shelf life.
> 
> Also as far as kelp in aact ...microscopy shows that, for most situations, kelp inhibits the desired biota when brewing compost tea. If you are brewing for npk and trace elements then it would not matter.


yea, i always do my nute teas and my AACTs apart.
Also my SSTs are solely that too.
Course i haven't really had to use any nute teas in a while, i'm still workin on my dandelion/comfrey fpe i made last yr..
that thing goes sooooo long..
i made five gallons and i use a pint glass per 4 gallons, but the stuff is so damn good i don't have to hardly feed.


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## mouse1818 (Jun 11, 2015)

greasemonkeymann said:


> you absolutely sure its a mag def?
> In organics its not a common def
> You can give it some by giving it a BSM tea.
> Simple and fast.
> ...


I'm 98% sure its mag def. It is showing all the symptoms a mag def has like green veins, leaves praying ect. I sprayed it with some epsom salt and it seems to be doing better. The only other thing I can think of is root gnats because I do still have gnats but I've been managing them.


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## mouse1818 (Jun 11, 2015)

testiclees said:


> Never sprouted punkin seeds. But its not npk that makes sst work. Sst.is effective because of the enzymes. That is also why sst has a very short shelf life.
> 
> Also as far as kelp in aact ...microscopy shows that, for most situations, kelp inhibits the desired biota when brewing compost tea. If you are brewing for npk and trace elements then it would not matter.


What about a bamboo and alfalfa sprout tea the fasted growing plant in the world! I bet that tea would skyrocket the cannabis plant in veg.


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## testiclees (Jun 11, 2015)

mouse1818 said:


> What about a bamboo and alfalfa sprout tea the fasted growing plant in the world! I bet that tea would skyrocket the cannabis plant in veg.


ya alfalfa sprout tea is consided explosive. Bamboo though doesnt make sprouts it grows from rhizomes, pretty sure. Bamboo droppings do make a silicon rich addidition to worm bin...i do this sometimes when i visit a bamboo grove!


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## Darth Vapour (Jun 11, 2015)

Don;t matter what you try to make grow faster sometimes its strain related ,, problem is your looking at your plants to much lol there fore it seems to grow slow ...
Give them what they need and they will grow as long as roots have room to grow so will plant hinder plant with pot size ??? will in fact slow growth and potential ...
just saying indoor C02 to speed things up 
outdoor pray to the sun gods as well give them what they need.. If i was to look at my plants every day ,, i would say dam its growing slow .. go there few days later and wow them fuckers grew ,, See what i am getting at lol
If your going to spend so much time looking at your plants then get close and Breath on them give them some c02 lol


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## mouse1818 (Jun 11, 2015)

Darth Vapour said:


> Don;t matter what you try to make grow faster sometimes its strain related ,, problem is your looking at your plants to much lol there fore it seems to grow slow ...
> Give them what they need and they will grow as long as roots have room to grow so will plant hinder plant with pot size ??? will in fact slow growth and potential ...
> just saying indoor C02 to speed things up
> outdoor pray to the sun gods as well give them what they need.. If i was to look at my plants every day ,, i would say dam its growing slow .. go there few days later and wow them fuckers grew ,, See what i am getting at lol
> If your going to spend so much time looking at your plants then get close and Breath on them give them some c02 lol


Lol yea I look at my plant at least 3 times day lol.


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## mouse1818 (Jun 15, 2015)

nick17gar said:


> Organic feeding provides great results. A good organic grow starts with the soil. (look at subcool's section on that. he knows soil.) Im going to go over strictly what to do once the plant is in the dirt, and you still need to feed them something. Feeding the plants the right stuff is key to successful grows, and knowing what to feed and when, is needed for every grower.
> 
> If your plant has some sort of issue, theres threads on that https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/488004-guide-nutrient-deficiency-toxicity.html . this thread is gonna cover what do to AFTER you notice a deficiency, or just to keep a healthy garden. this will be using only organic nutrients. Ive purchased bottles of guano, and molasses and wondered... what now? well this is what now.
> 
> ...


For the rotten fruit tea when you say: Using molasses adds a large amounts of carbs and can contribute to fungus (in high heat grows) That's a good thing right?


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## strainbank (Jun 23, 2015)

might be a stupid question, but is this whole thread about teas? im a bit curious about other organic feeding. i heard of crushed bone and fish protein and obviously cow poop ha. they sell fish protein stuff at home depot but it doesnt work for hydro systems. any help?


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## MMMABabies (Jul 5, 2015)

Great post Bro! Thanks for the info


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## VTMi'kmaq (Jul 6, 2015)

strainbank said:


> might be a stupid question, but is this whole thread about teas? im a bit curious about other organic feeding. i heard of crushed bone and fish protein and obviously cow poop ha. they sell fish protein stuff at home depot but it doesnt work for hydro systems. any help?


Organics +hydro idk bout that, but crganics +soil makes me smile1


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## Desr (Jul 9, 2015)

Is veganic still organic? If something is veganic is it always organic too? Or is there a grey area?


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## TripleMindedGee5150 (Jul 12, 2015)

Sup folks. 

I've been reasearching different ways of growing since 2010. Started in 2012. Joined here in 2013. Last two harvest have been the best for me so far. Kinda all becoming familiar. 
Anyway, I've always used bottled nutes. Actually, last season was my first time using supersoil outdoors. 

I've always used EarthJuice. My garden looks great. But the point is......

I've finally decided to go ahead and do AACT, but since I've started with bottled nutes should I just finish with them? For my veggies I use the Earthlink Bloom formula after using fox farm Grow Big. My Candyland I've used Grow Big since it's still Early Veg. I go by the bottle dosage per gallon. Everything has always turned white and soft ash.


So would it be to opposite sides to introduce a tea now oh and if I use a tea specific for mmj its good for vegetables too? I only have 2 mmj plants. And my one in coco.


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## Darth Vapour (Jul 12, 2015)

idunno with the tea craze its only there for people to cover there sorry ass for not having a proper soil to begin with . i do not care what most people will say Teas are to feed the soil ,
Here is a good one ,, 
did you know your plants also feed the soil, and micro life..But as humans we need to fuck even up the natural process of organics ,, You know the way nature intended ..
But not for most stoners 
Here is a thought if you cannot make a soil that will take any plant from start to finish ( full season ) then i suggest you fucking quit growing period ..
Cause your a idiot my 12 year old daughter can make a soil and complete a full season in our garden with only water used .. what does that say for you ? 
Its pretty simple really 
#1 have a compost bin
#2 save all scraps peels you name it even used fats 
#3 i you do not eat veggies hit a restaurant ask them to save veggie scraps they go through 1000 pounds a week of it 
#4 go worm hunting usually on sides of roads after and during rain falls dig some up more the better 

making a simple soil how fucking hard can this be folks seriously only on MJ sites it appears it can be the hardest to make .... fuck me funny shit really 
My simple soil mix

1 - 40 percent compost from my compost bin
2 - 40 percent new top soil screened 
3 -- 10 percent fresh grass clippings 
4 - 5 percent cardboard 
5 - 5 percent worms 
and rain water only 
Here is a plant that only gets rain water and is in 3rd week of forced flower out door totally healthy 
no teas no nutrients just soil mix from above you be the judge and and another plant planted may 26 - 28 ish out door from clone


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## Darth Vapour (Jul 12, 2015)

shit having issues up loading will keep trying


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## TripleMindedGee5150 (Jul 13, 2015)

Darth Vapour said:


> idunno with the tea craze its only there for people to cover there sorry ass for not having a proper soil to begin with . i do not care what most people will say Teas are to feed the soil ,
> Here is a good one ,,
> did you know your plants also feed the soil, and micro life..But as humans we need to fuck even up the natural process of organics ,, You know the way nature intended ..
> But not for most stoners
> ...


 Lol you been using mad cow compost? Because you sound mad bro. Shit, as if someone just step on your brand new Jordan's. Is it really that offensive to use tea....?

It would have been nice to have had prepared my soil like that. As close as you're gonna get earthly as possible. I get it. Shit you probably get your worms off amazon. If you don't well then, I just don't really have the time to stop on the side of the road, and dig up worms. My "sorry ass" has to settle for something convenient to me at this time. I have a small garden besides.

I used compost and my dirt. Maybe next time I do try and amend my soil for just water.

But wouldn't a brewed tea be better than bottled shit? Whatever though Darth Vapour I guess you told me. I really hope you're over 50. Cranky ass


----------



## cannakis (Jul 18, 2015)

greasemonkeymann said:


> yea, i always do my nute teas and my AACTs apart.
> Also my SSTs are solely that too.
> Course i haven't really had to use any nute teas in a while, i'm still workin on my dandelion/comfrey fpe i made last yr..
> that thing goes sooooo long..
> i made five gallons and i use a pint glass per 4 gallons, but the stuff is so damn good i don't have to hardly feed.


Do you have some pictures of your bud? It's been almost a year now from when I built that soil.... Finally it doesn't burn... Much... Hahaha! I wish I would have listened. But I will be getting into making the teas again soon and nutes... I just want to see your results from it


----------



## cannakis (Jul 18, 2015)

Darth Vapour said:


> idunno with the tea craze its only there for people to cover there sorry ass for not having a proper soil to begin with . i do not care what most people will say Teas are to feed the soil ,
> Here is a good one ,,
> did you know your plants also feed the soil, and micro life..But as humans we need to fuck even up the natural process of organics ,, You know the way nature intended ..
> But not for most stoners
> ...


Yeah I work in a restaurant and don't save it really... My buddy keeps telling me to start one laziness I guess... I guess really I don't know if I should have Two poles and add fresh scraps to the one while I turn and use the other...!?


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## greasemonkeymann (Jul 20, 2015)

I got a couple, not many as my camera does this weird constant focusing thing.
BOTH of these plants got a little mite infestation, my buddy gave me a girl scout cookie that infected em.
Second pic is of a blurry ass purple paralysis, First pic is the poor sugarpunch that revegged forever, and the last is my fav the madjackberry, (weirdest smell and taste I've ever grown)
the last two got a lil beat up from the mites, but they came out alright, THIS harvest is another story though, I have a bunch of theses in veg ready to go.I took a BUNCH of pics of this mammoth purple paralysis but the pics are blurry as hell.  
In about 60 days i'll have pics of what these really can do, now that my strain-hunting craze is somewhat in check.


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## Darth Vapour (Jul 26, 2015)

TripleMindedGee5150 said:


> Lol you been using mad cow compost? Because you sound mad bro. Shit, as if someone just step on your brand new Jordan's. Is it really that offensive to use tea....?
> 
> It would have been nice to have had prepared my soil like that. As close as you're gonna get earthly as possible. I get it. Shit you probably get your worms off amazon. If you don't well then, I just don't really have the time to stop on the side of the road, and dig up worms. My "sorry ass" has to settle for something convenient to me at this time. I have a small garden besides.
> 
> ...


 lol i am not cranky lol i just find it ironic how so many people have issues with there plants in flower hence the tea craze  Growing organically here is my flowering girl kicking ass with only water being used .. or my other plant that is 8 feet tall and pretty much the same wide and only mother nature taking care of her i do not give it nothing pretty much used my soil planted it watered it one time and walked away 
amazon for worms lol actually were little bit bigger then that being family owns a botanic garden :
I was referring to the average grower that might not have 100 bucks+ for a pound of worms etc


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## HeartIandhank (Oct 4, 2015)

Has anyone ever heard of or used MicroLife Organic Fertilizers? I picked up some MicroLife 6-2-4 and MicroGro Granular.. I have some plants in fox farm right now and planning to amend the fox farm with the 624 and MicroGro.. I figure the Ocean Forest will cover a few wks of veg and a few of flower,,, then the ML will finish them out..


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## VTMi'kmaq (Oct 5, 2015)

Interested in seeing your results!^^^^^^


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## VTMi'kmaq (Oct 5, 2015)

Darth Vapour said:


> lol i am not cranky lol i just find it ironic how so many people have issues with there plants in flower hence the tea craze  Growing organically here is my flowering girl kicking ass with only water being used .. or my other plant that is 8 feet tall and pretty much the same wide and only mother nature taking care of her i do not give it nothing pretty much used my soil planted it watered it one time and walked away
> amazon for worms lol actually were little bit bigger then that being family owns a botanic garden :
> I was referring to the average grower that might not have 100 bucks+ for a pound of worms etc View attachment 3466657View attachment 3466656


 Nah you were raging on a topic that's open ended. Everyone learns in tnhere own way, someoe stepping on your new jordan's lmao almost pissed myself laughing!


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## HeartIandhank (Oct 5, 2015)

I recently read the TLO book.. Great read.. In the edition I have he was ALL about the teas. But on the forum he frequents he now says he has eased off the teas as they cause more problems than they are worth when used often. He has a new edition coming out that will not push the teas as hard, it sounds like anyway..

I'm also having great results with just good ol' soil and water.. I have given nothing but water to my plants in ocean forest.. soon here I will upcan and amend with some organic 6-2-4 granular and do some spikes with bulb food (3-8-8 .. At a later date though I would like to avoid the fertilizer blends all together and just bake my own. Seems like a fun project that could teach me a lot.

Teas are fun to brew though.. I like to brew up a compost tea around the time I am planting in my raised beds.


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## HeartIandhank (Oct 5, 2015)

@Darth Vapour , Did you mix your own soil for the container plant there or did you use a bagged mix? plants look great!


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## HeartIandhank (Oct 5, 2015)

TripleMindedGee5150 said:


> Sup folks.
> 
> I've been reasearching different ways of growing since 2010. Started in 2012. Joined here in 2013. Last two harvest have been the best for me so far. Kinda all becoming familiar.
> Anyway, I've always used bottled nutes. Actually, last season was my first time using supersoil outdoors.
> ...


@TripleMindedGee5150

You do know the Grow Big is not organic, right? It uses a bit of edta if I remember right.
I'm no organic purist.. just asking as we are in the organic thread and I have talked with several people who were not aware that Grow Big is not alll organic. Same for Tiger Bloom.. Good stuff, not all organic though.

I like Fox Farm products.. good stuff.. the Reps in our area are really good people too.


----------



## cannakis (Oct 6, 2015)

HeartIandhank said:


> I recently read the TLO book.. Great read.. In the edition I have he was ALL about the teas. But on the forum he frequents he now says he has eased off the teas as they cause more problems than they are worth when used often. He has a new edition coming out that will not push the teas as hard, it sounds like anyway..
> 
> I'm also having great results with just good ol' soil and water.. I have given nothing but water to my plants in ocean forest.. soon here I will upcan and amend with some organic 6-2-4 granular and do some spikes with bulb food (3-8-8 .. At a later date though I would like to avoid the fertilizer blends all together and just bake my own. Seems like a fun project that could teach me a lot.
> 
> Teas are fun to brew though.. I like to brew up a compost tea around the time I am planting in my raised beds.


What forum?


----------



## VTMi'kmaq (Oct 7, 2015)

http://gardeningwithcharlie.com/grow-ipm-organic-pest-controls.html


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## HeartIandhank (Oct 8, 2015)

cannakis said:


> What forum?


I think you get banned on here for mentioning other forums.. but, ahh, fuck it.. skunkmag forums. His handle is something like Telroy### ?

Beware though.. while the Rev is totally cool, laid back and humble there are some seriously holier than thou fucks that frequent that forum. That place makes my face hurt when a few of the well known members start talking. I can't go over there anymore.. the egos of some of those folks are intense,

I wish the Rev would write a non mj version of his book.. I always want to recommend it to clients and customers at my place of work but I can't recommend an mj book to most of them.. the info is totally universal though. Not only MJ relevant..


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## HeartIandhank (Oct 8, 2015)

greasemonkeymann said:


> yea, i always do my nute teas and my AACTs apart.
> Also my SSTs are solely that too.
> Course i haven't really had to use any nute teas in a while, i'm still workin on my dandelion/comfrey fpe i made last yr..
> that thing goes sooooo long..
> i made five gallons and i use a pint glass per 4 gallons, but the stuff is so damn good i don't have to hardly feed.


What kind of teas are you brewing up? Are your teas made for the purpose of feeding, introducing microbes, or both?

Are your teas your primary source of nutrients then? Is your soil pretty rich?

Just curious what you are up to.. I frequent another forum but everyone is pretty much comfy with synthetics (can't blame anyone for that).. I feel like I'm annoying them with all the organic chatter.. so I'm taking the organic open ended discussions elsewhere for a bit.


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## cannakis (Oct 8, 2015)

HeartIandhank said:


> I think you get banned on here for mentioning other forums.. but, ahh, fuck it.. skunkmag forums. His handle is something like Telroy### ?
> 
> Beware though.. while the Rev is totally cool, laid back and humble there are some seriously holier than thou fucks that frequent that forum. That place makes my face hurt when a few of the well known members start talking. I can't go over there anymore.. the egos of some of those folks are intense,
> 
> I wish the Rev would write a non mj version of his book.. I always want to recommend it to clients and customers at my place of work but I can't recommend an mj book to most of them.. the info is totally universal though. Not only MJ relevant..


Hahaha hell yeah! There you go brother FREEDOM OF PRESS!!!

Yeah I hear that though, ridiculous I like a Good Debate but everyone always has to get so offended by everyone GET OVER YPURSELF


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## greasemonkeymann (Oct 8, 2015)

HeartIandhank said:


> What kind of teas are you brewing up? Are your teas made for the purpose of feeding, introducing microbes, or both?
> 
> Are your teas your primary source of nutrients then? Is your soil pretty rich?
> 
> Just curious what you are up to.. I frequent another forum but everyone is pretty much comfy with synthetics (can't blame anyone for that).. I feel like I'm annoying them with all the organic chatter.. so I'm taking the organic open ended discussions elsewhere for a bit.


Honestly, after doing my amended compost, i really don't see the need for many teas.
I do an AACT if the soil gets duper dry, and i do one SST (about week three or four of flower), sometimes i get lazy and simply buy pure cocowater instead.
My amended compost is leaf mold, grass clippings, fish meal, neem meal, fish bone meal, a lil gypsum crab meal, insect meal, doghair/beard clipping (loongterm nitrogen) alfalfa meal, kelp meal, oyster flour..
All that up, let it compost, and by the time the leaves are all pure humus, the nutrients are all VERY available, and i swear iit's the easiest damn way to get the nicest herb ever.
been growing since 1989 and i wish i would have done this decades ago.
So damn easy.


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## HeartIandhank (Oct 8, 2015)

Darth Vapour said:


> View attachment 3437501
> this spring i spread 200,000 tons of manure god dam wish i would of took pictures ...
> same thing will apply in fall ,





Darth Vapour said:


> amazes me when i look at my true organic garden in my back yard .. that i have *never amended* other then spring and fall dig culverts and place greens , grass clipping you name it and year after year our little personal garden grows a abundance of veggies same thing applies for this years MJ out door grow *just ADD WATER *


I was interested in the talk of just adding water with MJ plants.. but... would you really call spreading almost half a million tons of manure "just add water"?
Manure is rich in all kinds of microbial life, N P and K, micronutrients, minerals.. steer manure analysis is comparable to an unbelievably complete all organic fertilizer.. no?

I have heard the same thing about the Myco adding messing with the natural balance of microbial life... As I understand it Myco's take up a lot of "space".. making that space less available to other life. I'm no soil biologist.. but I did hear about that ^ from one. 

That is pretty rad that you all bring in that much manure.. well done.. I bet you are doing great things out there.


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## Darth Vapour (Oct 8, 2015)

well today took some shitty pictures of my out door plant mind you night temps have been -2 and 10 degrees last week n half no rain so yesterday as second time i ever flooded them with water lol ,, as yesterday n today temps are in the 18's plants have been in same soil 0 nutrients with only 2 top dresses all summer long grass clippings plant has been in same soil since may 5+ months pretty impressed as for bud size not that is due to mother nature but there not bad today saw major hair growth i pray for 2 weeks of good weather and it will be killer

PS: took couple buds off trimmed and drying the smell is out of this world i mean very strong so as buds are fair size there is also a shit load of em


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## HeartIandhank (Oct 9, 2015)

So I decided to try out this product after a talk with the owner of the company.. It is called MicroGro Granular. It is an all organic biological inoculant. MicroLife is the company. I was interested in them as I saw that the University of Texas only uses microlife on their fields, campus, golf courses, everything.. Also, the stuff is used at several large zoos around the country as it is totally safe for animals to eat. The owner told me how he had to go before a panel of veternarians (sp?) to get approved to be used at zoos.. so the stuff is ultra safe even if ingested. Which as I am told does happen at the zoos..

About 1 wk after a top dressing of this stuff.. we have this.. I think next time I will go much, much lighter on the application.




This is from the MicroLife website.. What I have is actually the MicroGro Granular.. which is the bio inoculant discussed below but put on a humate carrier.. The MicroLife 624 put out quite a bit of "fuzz" as well.. but the microgro granular appears to be more diverse.. I can see different patches of different fuzz and fungi.. you can't really see it in the pic but I can see what looks like very very small mushrooms or large trichomes.. with a brownish stem and black "head" or "cap".. interesting stuff.. there is definitely something in this stuff. It does not contain myco though..

They also put this bio inoculant on a lawn fertilizer to gith fungal disease like brown patch and take all root rot on St Augstine.

*MicroGro ‘Root Protector’ Bio Inoculant Water Soluble Powder*




*MicroGro ‘Anti-Disease ’Biological Inoculation goes into our MicroLife Brown Patch 5-1-3 and our MicroGro Granulars. It is designed primarily to protect plants from soil pathogens but will also stimulate plant growth and root development.*

Contains 53 different strains of beneficial bacteria and fungi all with ‘anti-fungal’ properties. In addition to protecting the plant they also accelerate healthy growth. All of this is placed on a dry milk carrier loaded with highly nutritious microbial foods so they will rapidly grow in the soil. There are 600 billion CFU’s per lb that include the strongly effective microbes of Streptomycetes, Trichoderma and Pseudomonas.


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## HeartIandhank (Oct 9, 2015)

Maybe I'm not in the right thread for just general discussion of organics? Should I be somewhere else with these kinds of posts?


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## skunkwreck (Oct 9, 2015)

HeartIandhank said:


> Maybe I'm not in the right thread for just general discussion of organics? Should I be somewhere else with these kinds of posts?


Glad to see you back man !


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## HeartIandhank (Oct 9, 2015)

I've been lurking here and there.. just didn't have much to say for a while. Starting something new though with some organic grows.. it has been fun. Good to see ya.


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## greasemonkeymann (Oct 12, 2015)

Darth Vapour said:


> well today took some shitty pictures of my out door plant mind you night temps have been -2 and 10 degrees last week n half no rain so yesterday as second time i ever flooded them with water lol ,, as yesterday n today temps are in the 18's plants have been in same soil 0 nutrients with only 2 top dresses all summer long grass clippings plant has been in same soil since may 5+ months pretty impressed as for bud size not that is due to mother nature but there not bad today saw major hair growth i pray for 2 weeks of good weather and it will be killer
> 
> PS: took couple buds off trimmed and drying the smell is out of this world i mean very strong so as buds are fair size there is also a shit load of em View attachment 3517373View attachment 3517374 View attachment 3517376


yeah I bet those smell strong, for temps that low?
That's gotta do something for them, those look damn impressive, especially considering the huge temp issues you have


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## Darth Vapour (Oct 12, 2015)

greasemonkeymann said:


> yeah I bet those smell strong, for temps that low?
> That's gotta do something for them, those look damn impressive, especially considering the huge temp issues you have


dude i am sorta stoked waiting on some lower buds sites i chopped to give it a test but if she smokes anything like she smells its going to be killer just by handling them you have the hash smell on your hands very sweet smell with some pine after tones kinda of a mixture of pine and cherry note second bud on right drying up nicely its got the purple freckles with a fluorescent green look with the reds from the hairs .. It really going to have a nice bag appeal i might pending on high will start possibly slow harvest starting late next week 20 - 30 buds daily but will see
its light rain off and on and cold again today as for plant shes still amazingly healthy with some natural fad starting at bottom so
One thing for sure i am super happy with my simple soil mixture it took this plant 5 + months with out any nutrients and only rainwater 

PS I never lollipoped or cleaned under which would of made buds allot bigger but also with shitty sunlight and weather she had in her flowering stage shes doing ok could of been alot better if i had good weather and sunlight she pretty much has had if i am lucky 2 weeks of good weather meaning sunlight rest has been over cast , cold and rain


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## HeartIandhank (Oct 13, 2015)

I love outdoor buds.. The sun and the breeze just does something for MJ that indoor can't do.


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## VTMi'kmaq (Nov 12, 2015)

So iwas curious if i could get some insight from you all on the best way or organic product that is best for adding zinc/ and other essential minerals like zinc without having to buy bottled nutes? 
http://www.amazon.com/Lbs-Azomite-Additive-Fertilizer-Minerals/dp/B000E7MTT4/ref=pd_rhf_dp_s_cp_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41aGGoB+6-L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_SL500_SR101,135_&refRID=1CD51SZE10JN1CZXTVJ1


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## HeartIandhank (Nov 15, 2015)

VTMi'kmaq said:


> So iwas curious if i could get some insight from you all on the best way or organic product that is best for adding zinc/ and other essential minerals like zinc without having to buy bottled nutes?
> http://www.amazon.com/Lbs-Azomite-Additive-Fertilizer-Minerals/dp/B000E7MTT4/ref=pd_rhf_dp_s_cp_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41aGGoB+6-L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_SL500_SR101,135_&refRID=1CD51SZE10JN1CZXTVJ1


Azomite should give you zinc.. I mix in Azomite at planting at the rate of 1/4 cup per gal of soil.

I JUST increased the amount I give.. I previosuly was using 1/8 cup per G. I decided to up it by recommendation from a friend who uses at 1/4 c per G soil AND feeds via a solution at wk 3 and 6 of flowering.

Find a 40 lb bag locally. Save some money and stock up.

If you can't find azomite there is a product out there called Minerals Plus by Soil Mender and others. That probably has zinc in it too.


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## HeartIandhank (Nov 15, 2015)

Darth Vapour said:


> dude i am sorta stoked waiting on some lower buds sites i chopped to give it a test but if she smokes anything like she smells its going to be killer just by handling them you have the hash smell on your hands very sweet smell with some pine after tones kinda of a mixture of pine and cherry note second bud on right drying up nicely its got the purple freckles with a fluorescent green look with the reds from the hairs .. It really going to have a nice bag appeal i might pending on high will start possibly slow harvest starting late next week 20 - 30 buds daily but will see
> its light rain off and on and cold again today as for plant shes still amazingly healthy with some natural fad starting at bottom so
> One thing for sure i am super happy with my simple soil mixture it took this plant 5 + months with out any nutrients and only rainwater View attachment 3519987View attachment 3519988
> 
> PS I never lollipoped or cleaned under which would of made buds allot bigger but also with shitty sunlight and weather she had in her flowering stage shes doing ok could of been alot better if i had good weather and sunlight she pretty much has had if i am lucky 2 weeks of good weather meaning sunlight rest has been over cast , cold and rain


How did the lower buds turn out?


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## VTMi'kmaq (Nov 15, 2015)

Hey hank..........http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VJN96LG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_9&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER Have you used anything this high in potassium?


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## VTMi'kmaq (Nov 15, 2015)

Id also like to hear your guys thoughts on ammoniacal Nitrogen versus other forms of nitrogen, i overheard a gardener saying one can be better than another for plants.


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## HeartIandhank (Nov 15, 2015)

VTMi'kmaq said:


> Hey hank..........http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VJN96LG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_9&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER Have you used anything this high in potassium?


Yes.. Higher in fact.. I use Alpha Chemicals Potassium Sulfate (Organic Sulfate of Potash) 0-0-50

I'm not using it to up the level of P.. rather I am using it to up the level of Sulfur.

There are lots of things people add to MJ plants thinking it will make their plants more resinous. I actually feel very confident that adding Sulfur really works. UV supplement light too, but that is another matter.

I use 40 G reservoirs.. Every other reservoir (last about 10-14 days) gets 1/8 tsp Potassium Sulfate per G. From seedling to harvest.

A friend of mine who uses the same stuff does 1/4 tsp per gal, once per week.

With that product you listed having lots of magnesium but no calcium I would worry about getting Cal/Mag ratio off without a little planning. Something to think about.


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## HeartIandhank (Nov 15, 2015)

^ The only time I use super high P foods is when pushing flowers out of ornamentals.. Plumeria, bouganvillia, the real showy tropical flowers.. 
I used to (years ago) do a PK 13/14 treatment around wk 3 and wk 5 flower with MJ.. but not anymore. Might play around with it in the future though.


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## VTMi'kmaq (Nov 15, 2015)

Verynice, i am in soils. Can tell you that it's always interesting seeing what kind of reaction i get from 15-20 in N-P-K. I enjoy learning from my mistakes.


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## HeartIandhank (Nov 15, 2015)

I've made every mistake you could make.. worst one I made this year? While treating for spider mites in a non organic garden I accidently 4x'd the spreader sticker/surfactant in my pesticide spray mix.. killed probably 60 plants over a 2 wk period. I was piiiiiissed.


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## HeartIandhank (Nov 15, 2015)

VTMi'kmaq said:


> Verynice, i am in soils. Can tell you that it's always interesting seeing what kind of reaction i get from 15-20 in N-P-K. I enjoy learning from my mistakes.


If you have not supplemented Sulfur before.. give it a try. I bet you'll like the results. I'de like to hear someone elses as well.. I'm never in denial about the fact that sometimes what you THINK you see is not what you are really seeing. So I'm always looking for others experience on the matter.

Pretty confident about the Sulfur thing though..


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## Darth Vapour (Nov 16, 2015)

HeartIandhank said:


> How did the lower buds turn out?


All in all i am pretty happy with the outcome , like i said just plain shitty flowering weather , she was chopped on the Nov 10th looks like going to be 3 - 3 1/4 pounds dry of good buds and another half pound dry of inner larf buds so just under 4 lookin or that perfect northern climate strain she can handle the weather but shes a light dep in my region like the one i did same strain light dep these were smoking size right to soil my big girl never got the intense light


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## skunkwreck (Nov 18, 2015)

HeartIandhank said:


> If you have not supplemented Sulfur before.. give it a try. I bet you'll like the results. I'de like to hear someone elses as well.. I'm never in denial about the fact that sometimes what you THINK you see is not what you are really seeing. So I'm always looking for others experience on the matter.
> 
> Pretty confident about the Sulfur thing though..


When can we expect another Heartlandhank drop...I'll post you a pic of your SSH x SM soon.


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## HeartIandhank (Nov 19, 2015)

skunkwreck said:


> When can we expect another Heartlandhank drop...I'll post you a pic of your SSH x SM soon.


I sprouted some of the SSH x SM a while back.. I have several males and females. I hope to start flowering out the females in about 3 months.

So, hoping for SSH x SM F2's by summer 2016.

I know.. slow as fuck 

I wanna get the SSH x SM just right.. Would like to get an F4 male to use as my sativa hybrid stud. There is some 12+ week haze in the lineage.. I wanna get that out of there and emphasize the 9 wk ssh.

At the same time I will be backcrossing the SSH x SM to the 9 wk SSH mama..


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## skunkwreck (Nov 19, 2015)

HeartIandhank said:


> I sprouted some of the SSH x SM a while back.. I have several males and females. I hope to start flowering out the females in about 3 months.
> 
> So, hoping for SSH x SM F2's by summer 2016.
> 
> ...


SSH x SM


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## DigitalTorture (Nov 29, 2015)

ive tried the rotting fruit recipe, but for some reason it just ended up smelling like booze.


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## Mad Farmer DeeJ (May 26, 2016)

Rising Moon said:


> Great list, just a few things I would add...
> 
> A couple of major tea herbs have been left out of this list that should definitely be included.
> 
> ...


you sound like a steiner fan?


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## iskatero19 (Jun 8, 2016)

Will this be fine? There is "sodium" in this nute and as far as I remember I just read that sodium is not good for cannabis. 
I'm kinda confused right now.


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## DigitalTorture (Jun 8, 2016)

iskatero19 said:


> Will this be fine? There is "sodium" in this nute and as far as I remember I just read that sodium is not good for cannabis.
> I'm kinda confused right now.


Plants need sodium.


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## Dumme (Jun 8, 2016)

Was fish poo listed?


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## iskatero19 (Jun 8, 2016)

DigitalTorture said:


> Plants need sodium.


So this nute will be fine with my babies? This will be the first time that I will feed them and they are 19 days old as of now.


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## iskatero19 (Jun 8, 2016)

This can also be used and mixed with the water that will be used for watering and not just for spraying, right?
How much will I need of this nute to mix with the water? This will be the first time that I will feed my babies. They are now 19 days after sprout.

Thanks in advance for your kind response.


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## Woyaboy (Jun 14, 2016)

Hey OF's! Been enjoying trying to do things all organic. Gotta quick question maybe one of you guys wouldn't mind answering? Basically it goes like this: I made Moonshines Mix with the Happy Frog and FFOF and Fruit and Flower mixed in etc, everything was going great up until my 3rd week of flower and I had read that my mix ONLY works if I transplant. I did not realize that at all, so freaking out thinking she was going to be nute starved I threw in some Jacks Classic Citrus FEed. I'm realizing I fucked up but for future reference what SHOULD/COULD I have done to keep things all organic? Do the teas that put nutrients back in the soil, can they "burn" the plants if not done right? I was enjoying making my compost tea and all that and out of nowhere lost my confidence and went straight to Jacks.


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## nick17gar (Jun 28, 2016)

just wanted to pop in and say... im high as shit balls right now. 

Apparently, Comoran poo, bat poo, banana tea, honey, and rotten fruits is a good mix. 

Currently its winter here in Argentina, so sadly all i can do is keep last years clones alive (of this lemon haze plant im smoking on, its def the best of the bunch this year) til its spring when ill be taking them all outside.. =(


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## nick17gar (Jun 28, 2016)

Woyaboy said:


> Do the teas that put nutrients back in the soil, can they "burn" the plants if not done right?


yes! the teas arent just nutrients in water... most requiere decomposition, which breeds a lot of bacteria, mold and fungus spores... id try to keep to the recipes other people share... if in doubt, dilute it. 

I dont do anything when i plant seedlings... just good dirt (mix of potting soil, mulch, organic compost thats been aged and is done decomposing for the most part, vermiculite, etc...). When i transplant i normally use the same mix. the teas i add in at waterings. at most ill toss in some banana peels when i transplant under the plant. 

dont just use organics, plan to use them. the best take a while to prepare... and if your in a hurry, the banana tea is great.


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## AnimalMother1974 (Jul 7, 2016)

If you have organic soil that you've sterilized with heat, will the roots be able to uptake nutrients or will bacteria need to be restored in order for the nutrients to be plant available?


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## Upwards (Jul 24, 2016)

Just got some alfalfa pellets, gonna start brewing. Brewing 1 part alfalfa to 10 parts water for 1 week, tea is then diluted 1 part tea to 10 parts water. This is all from the OP. Question is, can I end up burning my girls if I give them too much even if I mix and dilute correctly? Or can I just saturate the soil (in 5 gallon buckets) and the excess will run off? I believe the buckets are heating the soil and cooking out a lot of moisture, so I have to water heavy daily. I have a 32 gal trash barrel I can brew in, but it's not supposed to keep well so if I brew a big batch it's a waste unless I can do a full watering with it. I have 11 buckets, how much should I brew?


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## Stonironi (Nov 5, 2016)

I am 7 weeks into flower and my ladies have completely ran out of gas . I am using true living organic soil and teas but all of my leaves are dead and they need food . I am all organic so what should I do to finish out when they still have 2 weeks plus to go and are really underfed . The soil just ran out of food. Thanks for any help


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## Woyaboy (Nov 8, 2016)

Stonironi said:


> I am 7 weeks into flower and my ladies have completely ran out of gas . I am using true living organic soil and teas but all of my leaves are dead and they need food . I am all organic so what should I do to finish out when they still have 2 weeks plus to go and are really underfed . The soil just ran out of food. Thanks for any help


I'd say fuck it and give it a 1/4 teaspoon of jacks citrus. 

Or top dress with organic but it might take awhile to break down.

I'd personally try using recharge by real growers. Throw in some cal mag and my ladies usually look very happy from that.


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## Stonironi (Nov 8, 2016)

Woyaboy said:


> I'd say fuck it and give it a 1/4 teaspoon of jacks citrus.
> 
> Or top dress with organic but it might take awhile to break down.
> 
> I'd personally try using recharge by real growers. Throw in some cal mag and my ladies usually look very happy from that.


Recharge and cal mag ? What type of calmag is ok for organics ? Does recharge work like they are saying or is it snake oil ? Thanks for the response


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## Woyaboy (Nov 10, 2016)

Stonironi said:


> Recharge and cal mag ? What type of calmag is ok for organics ? Does recharge work like they are saying or is it snake oil ? Thanks for the response


TBH, I'm not sure...I personally feel like they respond to recharge. I've no scienctific data to back it up. But every last person who uses it in soil has nothing but good things to say. Myself included. Cal/mag can be added with dolomite lime. Get the powder not the pellets. Also, you can get instant cal/mag using general organics brand. I've gotta say cal/mag cannot be overstated enough, I truly believe they're just as important as NPK in terms of growing. Do you have pictures of your plants? I'd like to see what you mean by out of gas.


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## Stonironi (Nov 10, 2016)

Woyaboy said:


> TBH, I'm not sure...I personally feel like they respond to recharge. I've no scienctific data to back it up. But every last person who uses it in soil has nothing but good things to say. Myself included. Cal/mag can be added with dolomite lime. Get the powder not the pellets. Also, you can get instant cal/mag using general organics brand. I've gotta say cal/mag cannot be overstated enough, I truly believe they're just as important as NPK in terms of growing. Do you have pictures of your plants? I'd like to see what you mean by out of gas.


Ran out of food to eat. So they are eating themselves before they are done.


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## yungkodama (Dec 4, 2016)

Someone care to shoot me some help? 

I just flipped them things and now im wondering whats the cheapest route of making a veg + bloom fpj or team or drench. Id like to try fruits but not to sure which fruits to use because I cant find to much info on the NPK values only on a few like bananas. 
I know I can use alfalfa but I really would like to maybe use fruit that way I can atleast eat something too. Im a little on the broke end right now till later but would like to do something effective immediately. Next water I will use mollasses just need to find a local place that sells blackstrap or else I will just use Grandmas mollasses. If anyone can shoot me some help that would be pretty kick ass!


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## DigitalTorture (Dec 4, 2016)

yungkodama said:


> Someone care to shoot me some help?
> 
> I just flipped them things and now im wondering whats the cheapest route of making a veg + bloom fpj or team or drench. Id like to try fruits but not to sure which fruits to use because I cant find to much info on the NPK values only on a few like bananas.
> I know I can use alfalfa but I really would like to maybe use fruit that way I can atleast eat something too. Im a little on the broke end right now till later but would like to do something effective immediately. Next water I will use mollasses just need to find a local place that sells blackstrap or else I will just use Grandmas mollasses. If anyone can shoot me some help that would be pretty kick ass!


I personally throw all my old fruit scraps into my compost I use for flowering. Then I make a banana, molasses, bat guano and worm casting tea for deep flowering. You can really taste the difference in the cannabis.


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## DigitalTorture (Dec 4, 2016)

Be careful to not use too much citrus fruits in your compost though.


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## yungkodama (Dec 8, 2016)

DigitalTorture said:


> Be careful to not use too much citrus fruits in your compost though.


Okay cool! will give it a try as I get deeper into the phase


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## Nugachino (Dec 29, 2016)

I sometimes cook banana peels, egg shells and used coffee grounds in an old electric frying pan.
Then once it's dehydrated. I grind it up in my mortar & pestle until it's a fine powder.

I'll either add this to water/feed cycle by sprinkling about a tablespoon over the soil. And watering in bokashi like normal.

I've also added a good quarter cup to my brewed supersoil. Mind you. This one isn't anyone's recipe. Just an improv of what I could find.


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## NaturalFarmer (Dec 29, 2016)

yungkodama said:


> Someone care to shoot me some help?
> 
> I just flipped them things and now im wondering whats the cheapest route of making a veg + bloom fpj or team or drench. Id like to try fruits but not to sure which fruits to use because I cant find to much info on the NPK values only on a few like bananas.
> I know I can use alfalfa but I really would like to maybe use fruit that way I can atleast eat something too. Im a little on the broke end right now till later but would like to do something effective immediately. Next water I will use mollasses just need to find a local place that sells blackstrap or else I will just use Grandmas mollasses. If anyone can shoot me some help that would be pretty kick ass!


NPK of everything

So just remember the numbers are a percentage of concentration with any given weight.
http://www.lundproduce.com/N-P-K-Value-of-Everything.html


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## Joomby (Mar 15, 2017)

Dumme said:


> Was fish poo listed?


I didn't see it mentioned. The gunk saved out of a dirty fish tank fillter would have to be pretty much the best as bacteria is the main thing that keeps the tank clean breaking down all organic matter and keeping ammonia and other things under control. I grow silver beat.peas.chives ect directly out of the top of my filter with no added ferts and they are pumping along.


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## williamhanson4041 (Apr 6, 2017)

Hello how are you all


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## NaturalFarmer (Apr 7, 2017)

DigitalTorture said:


> Plants need sodium.


I disagree


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## Dumme (Apr 7, 2017)

Plants don't require sodium, but sodium has be shown to help with metabolism, in very small amounts. It's a "trace element".

http://www.pthorticulture.com/en/training-center/role-of-sodium-and-chloride-in-plant-culture/


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## DigitalTorture (Apr 7, 2017)

Very tiny amounts.


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## Dumme (Apr 7, 2017)

In my aquaponic system, I strive for around 500-1000 ppb.


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## Joomby (Apr 7, 2017)

Dumme said:


> In my aquaponic system, I strive for around 500-1000 ppb.


What fish are you running in your set up?


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## Dumme (Apr 7, 2017)

I ran into a problem last year with tank leak. I lost some fish and had to supplement fish for what I had on hand. My local hatchery is trout, but only available seasonally. My current system is running Brook Trout, Rainbow Trout, and supplemented with Shubunkins, and Comets. In total, about 100-150lbs of fish.


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## Joomby (Apr 8, 2017)

Dumme said:


> I ran into a problem last year with tank leak. I lost some fish and had to supplement fish for what I had on hand. My local hatchery is trout, but only available seasonally. My current system is running Brook Trout, Rainbow Trout, and supplemented with Shubunkins, and Comets. In total, about 100-150lbs of fish.


 nice. Do you eat the trout? I have a 1000ltr pod with a super ghetto set up it's pretty much just a power head feeding up through a large storage container filled with random media from old tanks. When I finally get around to making a decent set up I might have to get a few tips from you.


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## Lucifder (May 4, 2017)

Hello fellow farmers, just wondering if someone can help with a random thought I had about aerating water and making teas... this season I'm growing a few more plants than usual, so I'm going to fill a 32 gallon food grade trash bin with water straight from the hose and aerate the water and after wards brew some teas. My question is, is it ok to leave the water reservoir uncovered by night even if insects do or try to get in? If not I was going to slice the trash bins lid and line it up with a net to keep bugs out and for the tea to be able to foam up. Thanks y'all stay up.


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## ALong14U (May 8, 2017)

nick17gar said:


> Organic feeding provides great results. A good organic grow starts with the soil. (look at subcool's section on that. he knows soil.) Im going to go over strictly what to do once the plant is in the dirt, and you still need to feed them something. Feeding the plants the right stuff is key to successful grows, and knowing what to feed and when, is needed for every grower.
> 
> If your plant has some sort of issue, theres threads on that https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/488004-guide-nutrient-deficiency-toxicity.html . this thread is gonna cover what do to AFTER you notice a deficiency, or just to keep a healthy garden. this will be using only organic nutrients. Ive purchased bottles of guano, and molasses and wondered... what now? well this is what now.
> 
> ...


I know this post is very old but I just stumbled across this recipe and forum. You are a god. Your knowledge with soil and nutrients is fantastic. I am trying to figure out how to make good super soil so I can feed only water during my grows. The problem I'm having is the right mix so as the plant uses all said nutes and then can be flushed properly without leftover soil nutes being uptaken while using only water at the end of my 9 week cycle. I am printing your information for distro to friends and family on organic additives. Have several questions on how and if you stack your soil or if you mix completely? Hope to get an alert on this. Happy growing!


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## GardenGuy (Jun 5, 2017)

@nick17gar @Rising Moon thank you very very much for the intel on teas and herbs!

Just one question to anyone. Do you guys brew the herbs after you dry them or right after you harvest? Does it make any difference?


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## dankesthours182 (Jun 25, 2017)

This is amazing I've been trying to figure out if coco and organic were viable in my situation and these recipes seem to seal the deal!


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## dankesthours182 (Jun 25, 2017)

I just wanna have sex with this thread


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## graying.geek (Jul 19, 2017)

Basic question from a first time organic grower. Having started diy organic growing in the spring, my plants have been enjoying the summer abundance and variety of raw materials in their compost and teas that are available now. My question is: What do you do you diehards do for raw materials for teas during winter months. Use just store-bought materials? Chop and freeze? Do without? 

I've collected a couple Kg of nettles, equisetum, dandelions, various blossums, etc., but how can I keep this valuable stuff in a form that I can use it to brew fresh batches during the winter?

TIA.


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## DonTesla (Jul 24, 2017)

graying.geek said:


> Basic question from a first time organic grower. Having started diy organic growing in the spring, my plants have been enjoying the summer abundance and variety of raw materials in their compost and teas that are available now. My question is: What do you do you diehards do for raw materials for teas during winter months. Use just store-bought materials? Chop and freeze? Do without?
> 
> I've collected a couple Kg of nettles, equisetum, dandelions, various blossums, etc., but how can I keep this valuable stuff in a form that I can use it to brew fresh batches during the winter?
> 
> TIA.


@graying.geek 
I would just turn it into compost rich soil and save a magic tub, ready for top dress and to draw teas from... 

but..

You could create ferments. If done right, could last for years. Cut out air, containments, etc.
and you could freeze yes, but that would just prep it in my mind for worms..

You could create great regular (thermophilic, outdoor) compost. Or vermi compost indoors or out. 
You could then _seal_ said compost and it can actually continue to activate / become more bio available for up to 3 or even 4 months max.

Side note
To create fungal dom compost you can just add fungal food to vermi compost or soil, you would be surprised what they can do just alone, by themselves


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## graying.geek (Jul 24, 2017)

DonTesla said:


> @graying.geek
> ...
> ... Side note
> To create fungal dom compost you can just add fungal food to vermi compost or soil, you would be surprised what they can do just alone, by themselves


Thanx, Don. I appreciate you sharing. 

By "fungal food", do you mean add oatmeal, cooked rice, or some other carb to the finished compost?


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## Joomby (Jul 24, 2017)

graying.geek said:


> Thanx, Don. I appreciate you sharing.
> 
> By "fungal food", do you mean add oatmeal, cooked rice, or some other carb to the finished compost?


I throw in a handfull of oatmeal every now and again at any stage of the composting. I find it helps to decompose all the carbon (dry grass, leaves, news paper ect.


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## DonTesla (Jul 24, 2017)

graying.geek said:


> Thanx, Don. I appreciate you sharing.
> 
> By "fungal food", do you mean add oatmeal, cooked rice, or some other carb to the finished compost?


My pleasure dude. 

And yeah just like fungal kick starters.. Ground up organic oatmeal with some chia is one of my fav recipes.. Oat bran.. You sprinkle a fluffy mix on top and you will create a less dense, more breathable, real fluffy, super healthy layer with less mold.. My preference for finishing a batch.. some simple safe clean indoor mixing.

Rice we skip altogether now btw... However.. wild slash organic rice hulls, and buckwheat rice hulls have made it into our premium aeration mix.. So rice is still represented .. 

Happy growing,

Don


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## Joomby (Jul 24, 2017)

DonTesla said:


> My pleasure dude.
> 
> And yeah just like fungal kick starters.. Ground up organic oatmeal with some chia is one of my fav recipes.. Oat bran.. You sprinkle a fluffy mix on top and you will create a less dense, more breathable, real fluffy, super healthy layer with less mold.. My preference for finishing a batch.. some simple safe clean indoor mixing.
> 
> ...


Hey don it was you starting the soil company right? If so sounds like its up and running .do you have a web site?


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## DonTesla (Jul 25, 2017)

Joomby said:


> Hey don it was you starting the soil company right? If so sounds like its up and running .do you have a web site?


Still haven't launched officially but happy to help you build some soil for free just cause its good to help others and well, I love building soil. Haha. What kind of recipe did you want to do?


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## Joomby (Jul 25, 2017)

DonTesla said:


> Still haven't launched officially but happy to help you build some soil for free just cause its good to help others and well, I love building soil. Haha. What kind of recipe did you want to do?


I just wanted to check it out for a look see and also know where to direct people who are chasing a decent blend as I do know that you know soil you know haha.. I already have a bit of my own ROLS style/recipe but I will be sure to ask for a critique and suggestions next batch


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## DonTesla (Jul 25, 2017)

Joomby said:


> I just wanted to check it out for a look see and also know where to direct people who are chasing a decent blend as I do know that you know soil you know haha.. I already have a bit of my own ROLS style/recipe but I will be sure to ask for a critique and suggestions next batch


That's awesome, @Joomby, I'd be honoured to help, any way I can, no problem at all, mate.. especially when not in school and what not. If you know of stores that you want to carry certain things, especially in Canada, can put em on our list to visit too when we tour so we can get more options in them. 

Meanwhile, yeah brother, direct your peeps to our "The Dons' Organic Garden' thread if you want for free help, its much like a live organic chat, just until our website launches, may as well since lots of people already building on there- always fun to help people build a living organic soil and source things; no matter what country they're in- always good vibes.

Also doing free private consults still, just via email, and sometimes cell, for good karma and continued learning / practice, whenever needed, but yeah threads a cool place to land, as said.

Since you're interested, quick update, just to stay connected, not promoting or anything, we have a real solid partner (and team) set up in Canada, and thats where we plan to roll out first, coast to coast. Since thats where we have a few large glacial deposits under our ownership/management. 

One being a few million yards of glacial rich peat based soil, the other being a couple large glacial rock dust deposits, in the 200,000 tonne range.. just doing tests on it now, or as soon as my sample lands, then will be awaiting analysis. 

plus a major timber mill that creates astonishing amounts of lumber, which has given us access to well over a billion (with a b) kg's of fungal dom compost that is not too far off from market ready. 

So we have some major assets working for us, but a little cash infusion would be very good so we can expand faster. Ideally we would buy our own dump truck, super B, as well as soil bagger, crusher, auger, loader, and screener.


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## Joomby (Jul 25, 2017)

It's good your helping people for free and karma is great thing as I'm sure by helping people out now it will build your rep for when your business is ready. And Holly shit you have got some quality resources at your finger tips.i work in the mining industry in Australia maybe I can move to Canada and operate your fleet and fix your gear haha. Think big man you sound passionate about it and it sounds like all your apples are lining up. Show a broker or bank your plans and knowledge they would be stupid not to give you a loan considering the market. Anyways I'll stop jamming this thread and update myself on your thread


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## MrKnotty (Jul 28, 2017)

DonTesla said:


> That's awesome, @Joomby, I'd be honoured to help, any way I can, no problem at all, mate.. especially when not in school and what not. If you know of stores that you want to carry certain things, especially in Canada, can put em on our list to visit too when we tour so we can get more options in them.
> 
> Meanwhile, yeah brother, direct your peeps to our "The Dons' Organic Garden' thread if you want for free help, its much like a live organic chat, just until our website launches, may as well since lots of people already building on there- always fun to help people build a living organic soil and source things; no matter what country they're in- always good vibes.
> 
> ...


Your the man for real!


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## DonTesla (Jul 28, 2017)

MrKnotty said:


> Your the man for real!


Always super happy to help folks go organic!


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## T-Bag (Aug 31, 2017)

Good info! Iv been trying out organic no till this summer with great results. There is some great stuff in here, Ill have to try some of these teas! Iv been making some videos of my teas and Im about to make some today on adding molasses check it out my recipe is in the video!


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## BandanaBreath (Sep 15, 2017)

MrKnotty said:


> Your the man for real!


like me so i can like this post, it was well deserved.....or maybe post before! this initation stuff sucks azz


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## Moldy (Oct 6, 2017)

Good thread! I'll be back to learn as I'm just in the middle of my first organic grow.


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## tripleD (Oct 15, 2017)

Does anyone have an alternative to Bat Poo? I have access to FREE Raccoon, fox, squirrel, skunk, pigeon, owl, and duck poo, and a few others, but unfortunately the animal rehabber that I know doesn't rehab bats


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## DigitalTorture (Oct 15, 2017)

tripleD said:


> Does anyone have an alternative to Bat Poo? I have access to FREE Raccoon, fox, squirrel, skunk, pigeon, owl, and duck poo, and a few others, but unfortunately the animal rehabber that I know doesn't rehab bats


I'm pretty sure all those craps you mentioned need to be hot composted or vermicomposted first. They all eat one form of a meat or another.


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## chronic68 (Oct 16, 2017)

on guano for flowering i recommend sea bird guano its much more sustainable and less harmful to the environment alot of the guanos they blow a wall of the cave out scrape up all the guano and the bats get scattered and die where as sea bird guano is easy to get, dosent hurt anyone and comes with a 0-11-0 npk or if you get peruvian sea bird guano 12-11-2


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## tripleD (Oct 16, 2017)

DigitalTorture said:


> I'm pretty sure all those craps you mentioned need to be hot composted or vermicomposted first. They all eat one form of a meat or another.


Ok, but what about pigeon or duck?


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## DigitalTorture (Oct 16, 2017)

tripleD said:


> Ok, but what about pigeon or duck?


They eat bugs, it has to be composted.


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## tripleD (Oct 16, 2017)

DigitalTorture said:


> They eat bugs, it has to be composted.


Thanks for replying, but I'm still a little confused..... bats eat bugs also.


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## DigitalTorture (Oct 16, 2017)

tripleD said:


> Thanks for replying, but I'm still a little confused..... bats eat bugs also.


Some bats eat fruit, but even bat guano for the most part is aged. They don't give it to you fresh, lol.


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## tripleD (Oct 16, 2017)

Ok, now I see what you're saying, but I simply want to know if my plants would thrive as well using any crap that I can get FREE, since I would have to purchase bat guano. You always read about people using bat guano and some times cow manure, but I never read where people are using other options like rabbit, or deer, or anything else really.


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## DigitalTorture (Oct 16, 2017)

tripleD said:


> Ok, now I see what you're saying, but I simply want to know if my plants would thrive as well using any crap that I can get FREE, since I would have to purchase bat guano. You always read about people using bat guano and some times cow manure, but I never read where people are using other options like rabbit, or deer, or anything else really.


Well, if you wanted to use those that you mentioned, I would highly recommend composting them first. They will work fine. If you don't want to compost, you risk the chance of pathogens getting to your plant or yourself.


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## MrKnotty (Oct 16, 2017)

tripleD said:


> Ok, now I see what you're saying, but I simply want to know if my plants would thrive as well using any crap that I can get FREE, since I would have to purchase bat guano. You always read about people using bat guano and some times cow manure, but I never read where people are using other options like rabbit, or deer, or anything else really.


Your can use rabbit or alpaca poop without composting it at all. My buddy had about 9 alpacas last year and in use their shit as a topdress in veg....plants loved it. Rabbit poop works the same


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## DigitalTorture (Oct 16, 2017)

MrKnotty said:


> Your can use rabbit or alpaca poop without composting it at all. My buddy had about 9 alpacas last year and in use their shit as a topdress in veg....plants loved it. Rabbit poop works the same


Yeah, rabbits eat plants so you can use that raw.


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## DonTesla (Oct 20, 2017)

tripleD said:


> Does anyone have an alternative to Bat Poo? I have access to FREE Raccoon, fox, squirrel, skunk, pigeon, owl, and duck poo, and a few others, but unfortunately the animal rehabber that I know doesn't rehab bats


Can you get rabbit or organic horse or cow manure? Although fresh castings are not to be underestimated.. 

Since going vegetarian they are thriving x 10

Those things that look like roots are all babies.


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## tripleD (Oct 20, 2017)

DonTesla said:


> Can you get rabbit or organic horse or cow manure? Although fresh castings are not to be underestimated..
> 
> Since going vegetarian they are thriving x 10
> 
> Those things that look like roots are all babies.View attachment 4029909


Yea, I'm gna try sum rabbit....


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## Jack Reacher (Oct 31, 2017)

I have been using rabbit tea as my only veg nute in Happy Frog or Ocean Forest with great success. My wife raises rabbits so its easy to get. I highly recommend it. Never burns and plants love it.


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## thccbdhealth (Nov 2, 2017)

Jack Reacher said:


> I have been using rabbit tea as my only veg nute in Happy Frog or Ocean Forest with great success. My wife raises rabbits so its easy to get. I highly recommend it. Never burns and plants love it.


Your useing the word tea.
how are you making it.
hot water with their droppings?
Or room temperature and using air stones?


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## DonTesla (Nov 2, 2017)

thccbdhealth said:


> Your useing the word tea.
> how are you making it.
> hot water with their droppings?
> Or room temperature and using air stones?


Gross. Feed it to the worms then work with it!

Otherwise I would rinse it, fast as possibly, dry it, grind it, and apply to compost that is used for topdressing. Keep it clean!

Jack is on the money though about it being harmless and very ready to use. Its full spectrum stuff and one of the best manures by far, but dont underestimate quality castings in and of themselves either. The cleanest of all medicine doesn't require much animal stuff at all if doing things right.


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## PuffAdder (Nov 8, 2017)

Hi Guys, 

A quick question for the veterans put there that have made banana peel tea with molasses.

After diluting the the mixture 50:50 with water at time of feeding, what is the final ec at feeding?

Mine was at 1.8ec is that to high? 

Thanks in advance


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## Hippie hipper (Nov 9, 2017)

I'd recommend not letting things just "sit" this causes things to go anaerobic. I'd also not recommend brewing teas at home unless you have a microscope and can identify strains of bacteria, fungi, protozoa and nematodes. The trials I've ran with 4 different air pumps at different lph proved to be...well not so good. Low lph almost every tea was bacteria dominate and anaerobic especially over 24 hours brew time. The highest lph still proved to be somewhat "off" as 1 of the 4 was anaerobic. Keep in mind compost teas are not a means to feed your plant, N-P-K means almost nothing in a compost tea, and feeding once a week with teas isn't the idea behind teas. Compost and compost teas are a means to put life into soil, let your microbes digest and release all the nutrients they can. Nutrient cycling from your microbes is all your plant needs. N-P-K is an outdated method to me, because anyone growing knows those three are nor the only essentials. Think calcium, magnesium, iron, hell even arsenic lol. I'll brew a compost tea after every re plant(I'm no till) and that's the only time. My plants get foliar fed aloe and kelp, that's it. Molasses isn't a good addition to me either, unless your growing early succession plants such as kale or other leafy greens(because it only feeds bacteria and they will feed out every other organisms). Cannabis is barely in mycorrhizal succesion to me. Long story short I personally think you should only use compost teas, or teas when your soil isn't proper. My two cents anyways.


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## DigitalTorture (Nov 10, 2017)

Hippie hipper said:


> I'd recommend not letting things just "sit" this causes things to go anaerobic. I'd also not recommend brewing teas at home unless you have a microscope and can identify strains of bacteria, fungi, protozoa and nematodes. The trials I've ran with 4 different air pumps at different lph proved to be...well not so good. Low lph almost every tea was bacteria dominate and anaerobic especially over 24 hours brew time. The highest lph still proved to be somewhat "off" as 1 of the 4 was anaerobic. Keep in mind compost teas are not a means to feed your plant, N-P-K means almost nothing in a compost tea, and feeding once a week with teas isn't the idea behind teas. Compost and compost teas are a means to put life into soil, let your microbes digest and release all the nutrients they can. Nutrient cycling from your microbes is all your plant needs. N-P-K is an outdated method to me, because anyone growing knows those three are nor the only essentials. Think calcium, magnesium, iron, hell even arsenic lol. I'll brew a compost tea after every re plant(I'm no till) and that's the only time. My plants get foliar fed aloe and kelp, that's it. Molasses isn't a good addition to me either, unless your growing early succession plants such as kale or other leafy greens(because it only feeds bacteria and they will feed out every other organisms). Cannabis is barely in mycorrhizal succesion to me. Long story short I personally think you should only use compost teas, or teas when your soil isn't proper. My two cents anyways.


Lmao, i let my FPJ sit for months at a time and its been working wonders both as a foliar and drench. Like honestly, holy crap its kicking ass and taking names. I just gave it a try this last grow and im a believer.


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## Hippie hipper (Nov 10, 2017)

DigitalTorture said:


> Lmao, i let my FPJ sit for months at a time and its been working wonders both as a foliar and drench. Like honestly, holy crap its kicking ass and taking names. I just gave it a try this last grow and im a believer.


It's a safety issue is my only concern, just make sure you're cleaning and wearing gloves! Lol E. Coli can be brewed easily with bat guano! Just be careful and smoke on


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## DigitalTorture (Nov 10, 2017)

Hippie hipper said:


> It's a safety issue is my only concern, just make sure you're cleaning and wearing gloves! Lol E. Coli can be brewed easily with bat guano! Just be careful and smoke on


I have exclusively been using FPJ and coconut water, on a no till bed. I honestly am so happy with how it went. I havent touched any animal based amendments this time around.

Btw, i keep things dirty in my grow. Lol. No gloves for this cookie. Never had a problem in the many years ive been at it.


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## Hippie hipper (Nov 10, 2017)

DigitalTorture said:


> I have exclusively been using FPJ and coconut water, on a no till bed. I honestly am so happy with how it went. I havent touched any animal based amendments this time around.


Oh I'm a no till guy myself! Buds good and savings...even better lol havent spent a dime in a long time! I just steep stuff nowadays if something needs it.


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## DigitalTorture (Nov 10, 2017)

Hippie hipper said:


> Oh I'm a no till guy myself! Buds good and savings...even better lol havent spent a dime in a long time! I just steep stuff nowadays if something needs it.


She does all my pest management.


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## Hippie hipper (Nov 10, 2017)

DigitalTorture said:


> She does all my pest management.View attachment 4040975


 
Haha same


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## DigitalTorture (Nov 10, 2017)

Hippie hipper said:


> View attachment 4040988
> Haha same


Those look like the beetles we have here. They are taking over everywhere. A big pest, but they do keep the baddies away from my plants. My wife makes me vacume up all the ones that get into the house. I let them free back into the garden.


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## Hippie hipper (Nov 10, 2017)

DigitalTorture said:


> Those look like the beetles we have here. They are taking over everywhere. A big pest, but they do keep the baddies away from my plants. My wife makes me vacume up all the ones that get into the house. I let them free back into the garden.


Lady bugs are a pest where you are? Lol


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## DigitalTorture (Nov 10, 2017)

Hippie hipper said:


> Lady bugs are a pest where you are? Lol


Those arent real ladybugs. They are close relative. They even bite humans.


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## DigitalTorture (Nov 10, 2017)

http://winnipeg.ctvnews.ca/mobile/ladybug-that-bites-appearing-in-manitoba-1.3588711


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## Hippie hipper (Nov 10, 2017)

I'm counting 9 spots and no more, and no "M" marking. I'm pretty sure I have a native north american lady bug. I didn't buy them, just gathering from outside


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## DigitalTorture (Nov 10, 2017)

Hippie hipper said:


> I'm counting 9 spots and no more, and no "M" marking. I'm pretty sure I have a native north american lady bug. I didn't buy them, just gathering from outside


Idk. Personally i let them run wild in the growroom and they are doing their job just fine. I also try to use mostly stuff i get from my immediate environment, right down to my worms that i use.


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## lilsativa (Dec 3, 2017)

in first post I saw that sheep manure has: .8%N-.5%P-.4%K, but I cannot find info on PH.
some other sources recommend to make compost and use it only after that.

so the question is what is the best/fast way to use sheep manure for my plants.
has anyone tested ph of sheep manure?


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## tripleD (Dec 3, 2017)

Hippie hipper said:


> I'm counting 9 spots and no more, and no "M" marking. I'm pretty sure I have a native north american lady bug. I didn't buy them, just gathering from outside


I own a WildLife & Pest Control business, and you can't really tell by the markings, just like you can't differentiate between an Africanized "killer" bee from a regular European bee just by looking. The Asian Beetle and the North American LadyBug have produced hybrids over the past 30 yrs, so don't be surprised if you get bit by something that doesn't have the "M" marking that they are referring too. Both are beneficial and the bite is only mildly annoying....


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## DigitalTorture (Dec 3, 2017)

tripleD said:


> I own a WildLife & Pest Control business, and you can't really tell by the markings, just like you can't differentiate between an Africanized "killer" bee from a regular European bee just by looking. The Asian Beetle and the North American LadyBug have produced hybrids over the past 30 yrs, so don't be surprised if you get bit by something that doesn't have the "M" marking that they are referring too. Both are beneficial and the bite is only mildly annoying....


Yeah, they really kept down the fruit flies.


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## AnimalMother1974 (Feb 14, 2018)

FPJ. Lets say you ferment a plant that contains a disease thats not obvious. Will said disease carry over to the fermented juice?


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## MrKnotty (Feb 16, 2018)

AnimalMother1974 said:


> FPJ. Lets say you ferment a plant that contains a disease thats not obvious. Will said disease carry over to the fermented juice?


I'm not too sure about that. My gut says yes, but that's not based of any research or experience. What do you have going on?


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## DigitalTorture (Feb 16, 2018)

I imagine that if the plant you used to make fpj and the plant to be fed, is of the same family..... It could carry over.


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## deanpegal (Feb 18, 2018)

Magnificent detail Nick, I love organic feeding and you are encouraging it very well, keep up the great work!!


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## pollen205 (Nov 6, 2018)

Where I can see the list of ALL soil ammendments that I can add to make soil better 
Is there such list with description of each ammendment on this great forum...


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## MrKnotty (Nov 13, 2018)

pollen205 said:


> Where I can see the list of ALL soil ammendments that I can add to make soil better
> Is there such list with description of each ammendment on this great forum...


Go to the recycled living organic soil section. ROLS....under organics


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## pollen205 (Feb 21, 2019)

I have option to buy dry ammendment palm three ash 0-1-30 and that will be my main source of K
So can you please help me when do I top dress ,how often and can I burn my plant with that high K number in it
I have bat guano 3-15-4 that I put in soil before planting, but not too much to not burn young Plant so planing to top dress with that too
So how you would do it ?


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## CanadianDank (Feb 21, 2019)

pollen205 said:


> I have option to buy dry ammendment palm three ash 0-1-30 and that will be my main source of K
> So can you please help me when do I top dress ,how often and can I burn my plant with that high K number in it
> I have bat guano 3-15-4 that I put in soil before planting, but not too much to not burn young Plant so planing to top dress with that too
> So how you would do it ?


Post your current soil mix, as well as a little info about your set up. Specifically your water source.

All I can say based off that is do not top dress any more high P inputs. You don't need much at all really for P.


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## pollen205 (Feb 21, 2019)

A mixture of frozen black sphagnum peat and fine white sphagnum peat.
Water-soluble fertilizers and microelements were added.ph :6,0

That is specification of my base soil

I add perlite worm cast ,bat guano 3-15-4 azomite


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## CanadianDank (Feb 22, 2019)

pollen205 said:


> A mixture of frozen black sphagnum peat and fine white sphagnum peat.
> Water-soluble fertilizers and microelements were added.ph :6,0
> 
> That is specification of my base soil
> ...


What "water soluble fertilizers"? And in what amounts?
Can't offer much advice if we don't know what you're working with man


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## CanadianDank (Feb 22, 2019)

Also your water source could be pretty significant information


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## pollen205 (Feb 23, 2019)

CanadianDank said:


> What "water soluble fertilizers"? And in what amounts?
> Can't offer much advice if we don't know what you're working with man


I contact the company that Made it so now waiting Answer
For now I can only say what they wrait on the bag
They say :
Fert : 1.5 kg/m3. 14:10:18
PH 5.5 -6.5
Ec 40 mS/m (+/- 25 %)

I will post as soon they answer what are ammendments in it

My water is house water I let it sit for 24-48 h to get chlorine out and add air pump few h before I water to add oxygen
First time hearing that water have any effect on Npk so can you please explain why water matters to Npk ratio

Hope this help.



Thanks @CanadianDank


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## Covetsculitvars (Feb 23, 2019)




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## Covetsculitvars (Feb 23, 2019)

Follow natures lead! Please! Something as simple as coffee grounds this time of year.....can go along wAy to making happy plants in August! Notice how he uses a clay plug pot instead p! Great intuition!


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## CanadianDank (Feb 23, 2019)

pollen205 said:


> I contact the company that Made it so now waiting Answer
> For now I can only say what they wrait on the bag
> They say :
> Fert : 1.5 kg/m3. 14:10:18
> ...


Ok I ask about your water because if your not getting all the chlorine out, or worse yet if you have chloramine in your water you could be killing your microbes that are supposed to be feeding your plant.
Clean water is key, I buy distilled for mine. It does add up but when I move I'm going to get an ro system


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## Muskegman (Feb 24, 2019)

Can anyone help me find a ORMI Liquid fertilizer for veg and for bloom. I just found advanced nutrients Iguana juice. That seems legit, anyone use it ? I know all about making teas, but I just don’t have time with my work schedule to do all that right now . Wish I could but I can’t. I’ve read a lot of all the previous posts and I’m not seeing anyone discuss it. If there is anything I could buy that I could just mix up and feed the girls I’d love to hear some suggestions. I’m going to be growing in coco and I water/feed every single day as if it’s hydro, so whatever I use it must fit into that. I don’t want to get started on the debate about watering/feeding every day, just want to hear some advice on some ORMI listed liquid or powder food, that is easy to mix up or is already in liquid form and easy to mix with water. I thought about mixing all the stuff up I need in the coco before growing, but with my style of keeping the coco wet all the time I don’t think it would last long. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Happy growing everyone


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## ShLUbY (Feb 26, 2019)

Muskegman said:


> Can anyone help me find a ORMI Liquid fertilizer for veg and for bloom. I just found advanced nutrients Iguana juice. That seems legit, anyone use it ? I know all about making teas, but I just don’t have time with my work schedule to do all that right now . Wish I could but I can’t. I’ve read a lot of all the previous posts and I’m not seeing anyone discuss it. If there is anything I could buy that I could just mix up and feed the girls I’d love to hear some suggestions. I’m going to be growing in coco and I water/feed every single day as if it’s hydro, so whatever I use it must fit into that. I don’t want to get started on the debate about watering/feeding every day, just want to hear some advice on some ORMI listed liquid or powder food, that is easy to mix up or is already in liquid form and easy to mix with water. I thought about mixing all the stuff up I need in the coco before growing, but with my style of keeping the coco wet all the time I don’t think it would last long. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Happy growing everyone


fish hydrolysate for veg and cold pressed kelp extract for flower... that's what I'd use if i had to!


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## pollen205 (Mar 20, 2019)

I am in 5 week from flip so 3rd week flowering...
Sugar start on couple of fan leaves..

On what I need to focus now P or K or both ?
When is the P time and when is the K time ?


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## chick3n2011 (Mar 25, 2019)

If I wanted to benefit from stinging nettles..what's the best way of me doing it? 

Shall I pick some, leave them to die and dump them onto the top of my soil? 
If so, how do I ensure I don't introduce pests into my environment? 

What about steeping them in water and applying it as a feed? Again..how would I ensure I eliminated all pests? 

Thanks in advance.


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## Resin_pheasant (May 16, 2019)

nick17gar said:


> Organic feeding provides great results. A good organic grow starts with the soil. (look at subcool's section on that. he knows soil.) Im going to go over strictly what to do once the plant is in the dirt, and you still need to feed them something. Feeding the plants the right stuff is key to successful grows, and knowing what to feed and when, is needed for every grower.
> 
> If your plant has some sort of issue, theres threads on that https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/488004-guide-nutrient-deficiency-toxicity.html . this thread is gonna cover what do to AFTER you notice a deficiency, or just to keep a healthy garden. this will be using only organic nutrients. Ive purchased bottles of guano, and molasses and wondered... what now? well this is what now.
> 
> ...


For the fish bone mixture or blood meal mixture could I do a similar thing with coffeee grounds to make a solution to take care of my nitrogen deficiency. I can post up a picture when I get home but I see the yellow climbing up my plant and need to fix it ASAP and idk how available blood and fish meal are to me. Also for the mixture are you using the part that was strained to make a solution like the hoop or are using the liquider part that was strained. Thank you so much.


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## Cali.Grown>408 (May 21, 2019)

Best thing seems to be to add a lot of those things to your soil. Then just make teas out of comfrey, nettle, yarrow, and dandelion, banana peel water..lol gotta try that


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## FresnoFarmer (Jun 16, 2019)

COMPLETE ORGANIC FERTILIZER (C.O.F.)


Alfalfa Meal: N-P-K * = 3-2-2 
This is dried alfalfa ground to a meal. It acts as a slow release nitrogen source.

Cottonseed Meal: N-P-K * = 6-1-1
This is the ground meal from cotton seeds. It’s nitrogen is almost 85 per cent water 
insoluble making it a slow-release fertilizer.

Rice Bran: N-P-K * = 4-3-1
Rice bran is a by-product of the processing of white rice.
Soybean Meal: N-P-K * = 7-2-0
Derived from soybeans, soybean meal is prized for its high nitrogen content and as a 
source of phosphorus.

Fish Meal Products: N-P-K * = 5-2-2
Fish by-products make excellent fertilizers. You can buy them in several different forms. 
Fish emulsion is derived from fermented remains of fish. This liquid product can have a 
fishy smell (even the deodorized version), but it’s a great complete fertilizer (5-2-2) and 
adds trace elements to the soil. When mixed with water, it is gentle, yet effective for 
stimulating the growth of young seedlings. Hydrolyzed fish powder has higher nitrogen 
content (12%) and is mixed with water and sprayed on plants. Fish meal is high in 
nitrogen and phosphorus and is applied to the soil. Some products blend fish with 
seaweed or kelp for added nutrition and growth stimulation.

Linseed Meal (Nutrient value similar to soybean meal)
This is derived from the manufacturing of linseed oil, also known as flax seed oil.

Beet Pulp (dried)
A high-energy food source for soil microorganisms, This is a by-product of the sugar 
beet industry.

Oyster Shell
This contains a high percentage of calcium which is good for strong cell formation in 
plants and prevents bud-end rot on tomatoes. It also contains a number of other trace 
minerals.

Kelp Meal: (Ascophyllum nodosum) N-P-K * = 1-0-2
Kelp meal products are a natural and cost effective enhancement to any fertilization and 
conditioning program. They are suitable for all crops and applications, and can be mixed 
with most soil conditioners and fertilizers.

Bat/Seabird Guano: N-P-K * = 10-10-2
Yes, this is what sounds like--the poop from bats and seabirds. It comes in powdered or 
pellet form and is high in nitrogen. Bat guano only provides about 2% phosphorus and 
no potassium, but seabird guano contains 10 to 12% phosphorus, plus 2% potassium. 
The concentrated nitrogen in these products can burn young plants if not used carefully. 
They tend to be more expensive than land-animal manures.


MINERAL BASED FERTILIZERS


Chilean Nitrate of Soda: Mined in the deserts of Chile, this highly soluble, fast-acting 
granular fertilizer contains 16% nitrogen. It’s also high in sodium though, so don’t use it 
on arid soils where salt build up is likely, or on salt-sensitive plants.

Epsom Salt: Epsom salt not only helps tired feet--it’s a fertilizer too! Containing 
magnesium (10%) and sulfur (13%), Epsom salt is a fast-acting fertilizer that you can 
apply in a granular form or dissolve in water and spray on leaves as a foliar fertilizer. 
Tomatoes, peppers and roses love this stuff! Mix 1 Tablespoon of Epsom salt in a gallon 
of water and spray it on when plants start to bloom.

Greensand: Mined in New Jersey from 70 million-year-old marine deposits, greensand 
contains 3% potassium and many micronutrients. It’s sold in a powdered form, but 
breaks down slowly so is used to build the long-term reserves of soil potassium.

Gypsum: This powdered mineral contains calcium (20%) and sulfur (15%). It’s used to 
add calcium to soils without raising the soil pH.

Hard-rock Phosphate: This mineral powder contains 20% phosphorus and 48% 
calcium, which can raise soil pH--avoid it if your soil is already alkaline. It breaks down 
slowly, so use it to build the long-term supply of phosphorus in your soil.

Soft-rock Phosphate: Often called colloidal phosphate, soft-rock phosphate contains 
less phosphorus (16%) and calcium (19%) than hard-rock phosphate, but the nutrients 
are in chemical forms that plants can use more easily. This powder breaks down slowly, 
so one application may last for years in the soil. It also contains many micronutrients.

Limestone: This mined product has various nutrient levels, depending on its source. It 
is used primarily to raise pH, but dolomitic limestone, which is high in calcium (46%) and 
magnesium (38%), also adds magnesium to the soil. This powder also comes in an 
easier to spread granular form. Calcitic limestone is high in calcium carbonate (usually 
above 90%). Conduct a soil test for pH and for magnesium to find out which kind of lime 
and how much to add to your soil.
* Nitrogen - Phosphorus - Potassium


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## olaf687 (Jul 3, 2019)

I been following this thread I see your talking about making teas out of these ingredents but could I just top dress? I was planning on making a mix of crab meal, allpauco poop, and blood meal mix and sprinkle on top of my pots. I plan only using half or less of the reccomended dose especially the blood meal. But im completely new to this. So my question is can I top dress instead of making teas? Oh and I have an outdoor grow and currently building a greenhouse so i can cover them in fall so I can extend flowering. They are in 30 gallon pots mostly ocean forest mixed with roots organics, ancient forest, black gold. I been applying diamecius earth to the top soil for about 2 weeks now. And spraying neem on leaves and few squirts in soil.


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## MrKnotty (Jul 6, 2019)

olaf687 said:


> I been following this thread I see your talking about making teas out of these ingredents but could I just top dress? I was planning on making a mix of crab meal, allpauco poop, and blood meal mix and sprinkle on top of my pots. I plan only using half or less of the reccomended dose especially the blood meal. But im completely new to this. So my question is can I top dress instead of making teas? Oh and I have an outdoor grow and currently building a greenhouse so i can cover them in fall so I can extend flowering. They are in 30 gallon pots mostly ocean forest mixed with roots organics, ancient forest, black gold. I been applying diamecius earth to the top soil for about 2 weeks now. And spraying neem on leaves and few squirts in soil.


Yes you can top dress instead of making teas.


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## OkieSmoke (Jul 11, 2019)

I have been trying something new for me. OKC water is horrible for plants, but it is loaded w/ minerals and such. I created a small water treatment plant with two trash barrels, goldfish, and cheap sub pumps and air. The first barrel gets filled with tap water and is aged with a pump and activated carbon, and from there it is pumped to the larger barrel w/the fish. The water is used as needed from the fish barrel after they have worked their magic adding nutrients and such. The circulator is homemade from PVC with air, pump, and activated carbon, but no filtration to remove the little goodies from the fish. The results have been dramatic in the first grow since process stabilized.

Anyone else use live fish to treat their water supply?


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## DustyDuke (Jul 15, 2019)

OkieSmoke said:


> I have been trying something new for me. OKC water is horrible for plants, but it is loaded w/ minerals and such. I created a small water treatment plant with two trash barrels, goldfish, and cheap sub pumps and air. The first barrel gets filled with tap water and is aged with a pump and activated carbon, and from there it is pumped to the larger barrel w/the fish. The water is used as needed from the fish barrel after they have worked their magic adding nutrients and such. The circulator is homemade from PVC with air, pump, and activated carbon, but no filtration to remove the little goodies from the fish. The results have been dramatic in the first grow since process stabilized.
> 
> Anyone else use live fish to treat their water supply?


Only to grow basil on top of my fish tank


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## blazeaglory420 (Aug 29, 2019)

OkieSmoke said:


> I have been trying something new for me. OKC water is horrible for plants, but it is loaded w/ minerals and such. I created a small water treatment plant with two trash barrels, goldfish, and cheap sub pumps and air. The first barrel gets filled with tap water and is aged with a pump and activated carbon, and from there it is pumped to the larger barrel w/the fish. The water is used as needed from the fish barrel after they have worked their magic adding nutrients and such. The circulator is homemade from PVC with air, pump, and activated carbon, but no filtration to remove the little goodies from the fish. The results have been dramatic in the first grow since process stabilized.
> 
> Anyone else use live fish to treat their water supply?


Sorry to bug but could you send me a PM with more detail in regards to your fish poo operation?? haha I think that is very cool!


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## Kraven99 (Nov 15, 2019)

dante76 said:


> i used this as an amendment to my base soil (Super Cools Super Soil Recipe) and 1/2 strength guano tea (guano soaking in water for 2 days).
> 
> Results were great! Right now most of my buds are curing but from some i've tested out tasted/smoked very smooth and i didn't have to flush either...another benefit to growing organic.


You 100% definitely still want to flush when you're using organic nutrients otherwise you'll have the same kind of problems that synthetic growers get when they don't flush


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## ChrispyCritter (Nov 16, 2019)

Kraven99 said:


> You 100% definitely still want to flush when you're using organic nutrients otherwise you'll have the same kind of problems that synthetic growers get when they don't flush
> [/QUOTE
> And once again what are those problems, and how does pouring water on them alleviate those problems? Since when do we flush vegetables? Oh yeah, we don't.


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## Dabbie McDoob (Jun 2, 2020)

Love some of the options available and suggestions.
As an hard-core organic grower, this is great advice for new growers.

Such as shame the canna industry is so focused on manipulating folks into thinking a magic liquid is going to cause the plant to grow awesome.


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## Rabcbd (Jun 25, 2020)

Any insights on Neem cake and langbeinite?


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## Dapper_Dillinger (Jul 16, 2020)

nick17gar said:


> any dead vegetation. i prefer to use dead pot plants, this way i know the plants were similar in terms of nutrient balances, and also i know my waste products arent leaving the property (security first!)
> 
> 
> 
> ...


At what stage do you recommend foliage spray? Any thing that you have had great results with ?


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## matty-berk (Sep 12, 2020)

anyone ever use fossil shell flour on a plant thats flowering? then wash em off when harvesting?


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## CTGrown203 (Oct 1, 2020)

Cali.Grown>408 said:


> Best thing seems to be to add a lot of those things to your soil. Then just make teas out of comfrey, nettle, yarrow, and dandelion, banana peel water..lol gotta try that


Try Malibu’s best compost has all of that stuff and DAIRY cow manure Best stuff I’ve ever used


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## meangreengrowinmachine (Oct 4, 2020)

not to hijack but.. Wondering what everyone thinks of my soil recipe? Also I am looking to add possibly *Gypsum *to the mix but not sure in what ratio with this mix, also I am using LEDs so I want to have a really high availability of calcium and magnesium as it seems like *LEDs *(and from what I have read a lot on these forums) seem to make plants much more Cal-Mag hungry. I also have access to plenty of goat, rabbit, chicken, Turkey and Pig droppings as well as ground dried egg shells and banana peals to use. What do you all think?? thanks!

peat moss 7.5 gal
worm castings 3.75 gal
compost 3.75 gal
perlite 7.5 gal
lime 3 cups
glacial rock dust 12 cups
that's my base

then I mix my amendments together as below
kelp meal 6 cups
epsoma tomato tone 3 cups
alfalfa meal 3 cups
neem meal 3 cups
crab meal 3 cups
finely ground egg shells about 3 cups
azomite about a cup

I then take a total of 7.5 cups of the amendment mix and add it to the base and let it sit for at least 4 weeks...


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## myke (Oct 5, 2020)

Ill bet your tomato tone has all the right ratios so per cu/ft 1.5 cups tone.1 cup kelp, done 
Im doing similar 1.5 cups gaia 4-4-4 and 1 cup kelp.


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## Hash Hound (Oct 5, 2020)

meangreengrowinmachine said:


> not to hijack but.. Wondering what everyone thinks of my soil recipe? Also I am looking to add possibly *Gypsum *to the mix but not sure in what ratio with this mix, also I am using LEDs so I want to have a really high availability of calcium and magnesium as it seems like *LEDs *(and from what I have read a lot on these forums) seem to make plants much more Cal-Mag hungry. I also have access to plenty of goat, rabbit, chicken, Turkey and Pig droppings as well as ground dried egg shells and banana peals to use. What do you all think?? thanks!
> 
> peat moss 7.5 gal
> worm castings 3.75 gal
> ...


that seems pretty strong for 1 qft soil


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## meangreengrowinmachine (Oct 5, 2020)

Hash Hound said:


> that seems pretty strong for 1 qft soil


Huh i have seen mixes with much more stuff in it and keep in mind not all of the amendments go into the batch only 7.5 cups into about 23 gallons of base thats about a cup of amendments per cubic foot. Also once it is aged for a while everything is broken down so no heat and all organic amendments so no nute burn problems.


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## Hash Hound (Oct 5, 2020)

meangreengrowinmachine said:


> Huh i have seen mixes with much more stuff in it and keep in mind not all of the amendments go into the batch only 7.5 cups into about 23 gallons of base thats about a cup of amendments per cubic foot. Also once it is aged for a while everything is broken down so no heat and all organic amendments so no nute burn problems.


Sorry I was over looking amounts of the other base amendments.


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## ChrispyCritter (Oct 6, 2020)

I like alfalfa during veg but not so much in flowering so I don't incorporate alfalfa meal into my mix. I prefer alfalfa/kelp teas during veg. The mix looks good though. I used to use Tomato Tone and it's really good stuff. Doesn't get the respect it deserves.


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## Nug_nutz (Oct 10, 2020)

Great write up and recipes.. now i cant feel my legs to get off the throne. Lol


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## poundofyourfinest (Oct 10, 2020)

I use compost tea/nutrition worm poop, dragonfly earth medicine products for what stage I’m in with thrive-N for veg and build a bloom, and bat guano. That’s 1 week then I feed with active the next


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## P10p (Oct 10, 2020)

Kraven99 said:


> You 100% definitely still want to flush when you're using organic nutrients otherwise you'll have the same kind of problems that synthetic growers get when they don't flush


Yeah that's just wrong, if you could stop posting it, that'd be great..


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## Nug_nutz (Oct 10, 2020)

Great post. I used to use a spent coffee grind tea. I soaked the coffee grinds my parents saved for a few days before using it. Id strain it and dilute it like 1:10 or so. Very quick uptake and they loved it.


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## Leeski (Oct 10, 2020)

Fpj made out of fan leaves


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## Hash Hound (Oct 10, 2020)

Leeski said:


> Fpj made out of fan leaves


Fpj?


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## Leeski (Oct 10, 2020)

Fermented plant juice


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## Northwood (Oct 10, 2020)

Leeski said:


> Fpj made out of fan leaves


So what benefit would you get by making this FPJ as compared to just throwing the fan leaves on the soil surface as a mulch?


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## Nug_nutz (Oct 10, 2020)

Nug_nutz said:


> Great post. I used to use a spent coffee grind tea. I soaked the coffee grinds my parents saved for a few days before using it. Id strain it and dilute it like 1:10 or so. Very quick uptake and they loved it.


To be clear i would soak the spent coffee ginds for a few days. I actually had too much at one time and had it around while and diluted it as mentioned. It molded on the surface eventually. I gotta make enough for my needs and not have to much excess


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## Leeski (Oct 10, 2020)

The Biology has happened in the jar /vessel as opposed to mulch being more of slow release with fmj it’s there ASAP for uptake I’m feeding the soil


Northwood said:


> So what benefit would you get by making this FPJ as compared to just throwing the fan leaves on the soil surface as a mulch?





Northwood said:


> So what benefit would you get by making this FPJ as compared to just throwing the fan leaves on the soil surface as a mulch?


Mulch takes longer to break down fpj imo is more available as the magic has happened in the jar/ vessel Im kinda learning as I go so please bare this in mind I will be gutted if I fuck my plants will be mortified if any one takes my Basic knowledge of knf as gospel there’s cats on here that have forgotten my than I know


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## Northwood (Oct 10, 2020)

Leeski said:


> The Biology has happened in the jar /vessel as opposed to mulch being more of slow release with fmj it’s there ASAP for uptake I’m feeding the soil
> Mulch takes longer to break down fpj imo is more available as the magic has happened in the jar/ vessel Im kinda learning as I go so please bare this in mind I will be gutted if I fuck my plants will be mortified if any one takes my Basic knowledge of knf as gospel there’s cats on here that have forgotten my than I know


So the fmj is part of knf? I watched a video on YouTube about knf, but other than that I don't know much about it. I'm getting kinda old here (60+) and I'm getting a bit too lazy to get into these methods. These days I rarely go further than training and watering because I'm so busy ticking off other activities on my bucket list. lol


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## Leeski (Oct 10, 2020)

Northwood said:


> So the fmj is part of knf? I watched a video on YouTube about knf, but other than that I don't know much about it. I'm getting kinda old here (60+) and I'm getting a bit too lazy to get into these methods. These days I rarely go further than training and watering because I'm so busy ticking off other activities on my bucket list. lol


You and me both my friend I kinda stumbled across knf a few years ago and because I’m as tight as a ducks ass and don’t like filling peeps pockets with my hard earned for basically tomato feed I did lots reading watching (coots) thought I would give it ago I have never looked back guess that’s the hippy in me


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## Madmike79 (Nov 4, 2020)

Quality info am doing an organic grow using the hippy method have got a nettle and compost tea brewing at moment Wil throw some dandilions in as well thank you


----------



## Bears_win (Nov 5, 2020)

Madmike79 said:


> Quality info am doing an organic grow using the hippy method have got a nettle and compost tea brewing at moment Wil throw some dandilions in as well thank you


 I make fermented plant juices out of 

Horsetail ( high in silica ) chop em fine and add little blackstrap molasses or palm sugar , sometimes add a little Fleschmans yeast or brewers yeast .

Mugwort ( and others in the artemisia fam)
Lavender, lovage, borage you can sub the borage for calendula; sometimes it’s more common.

Have had good success with these ferments. I brew in. 30 gallon trash receptacle and then add to a AACT that’s been brewing for 18 hours ( fish hydrolysate, kelp extract, ew castings , baseline humus, and frass) 
Makes 200 gallons extracted tea and i feed every 10 days.

Switched from salt synth nutes in 2015 and haven’t looked back.
Good luck post a pic or 2 of your tea.


----------



## Madmike79 (Nov 5, 2020)

Bears_win said:


> I make fermented plant juices out of
> 
> Horsetail ( high in silica ) chop em fine and add little blackstrap molasses or palm sugar , sometimes add a little Fleschmans yeast or brewers yeast .
> 
> ...


Thanks for info on extracted tea will be looking at tea tomoz so will post pics then, first time brewer so hope it's ok will look at making bigger batch if this is good.


----------



## Madmike79 (Nov 6, 2020)

OkieSmoke said:


> I have been trying something new for me. OKC water is horrible for plants, but it is loaded w/ minerals and such. I created a small water treatment plant with two trash barrels, goldfish, and cheap sub pumps and air. The first barrel gets filled with tap water and is aged with a pump and activated carbon, and from there it is pumped to the larger barrel w/the fish. The water is used as needed from the fish barrel after they have worked their magic adding nutrients and such. The circulator is homemade from PVC with air, pump, and activated carbon, but no filtration to remove the little goodies from the fish. The results have been dramatic in the first grow since process stabilized.
> 
> Anyone else use live fish to treat their water supply?


Sounds interesting any pics of plants that u use this on always thought there was better use for fish tank water.
Will be looking in to this.


----------



## DrHill (Nov 11, 2020)

I have a question about my overall plant health. Just wanted to know what I could do to make plants as healthy as possible. I cant tell if the one on the right has a deficiency or not. Growing in Fox Farms Ocean Forest, I also pictured their dry amendments that I am using. I have been considering ordering Earth Dust this week and only using that going forward.

**Side note: The one on the left seems to be showing indica traits which I like and I want to take clones but I am having a hard time finding good places to take cuttings. It's just one big trunk-like stem with giant fan leaves. 

Plants are about 8-9 weeks old from seed. I am open to any and all tips, Thanks!


----------



## smokin away (Nov 11, 2020)

Bears_win said:


> I make fermented plant juices out of
> 
> Horsetail ( high in silica ) chop em fine and add little blackstrap molasses or palm sugar , sometimes add a little Fleschmans yeast or brewers yeast .
> 
> ...


Have you ever heard of using Amethyst crystals as a soil amendment? I came across this and it said that and many different kinds of mushrooms have properties beneficial to plants. 





GGG CRYSTALS – GGGNATURAL







gggnatural.com


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## Bears_win (Nov 11, 2020)

smokin away said:


> Have you ever heard of using Amethyst crystals as a soil amendment? I came across this and it said that and many different kinds of mushrooms have properties beneficial to plants.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I had good intentions to plant all my outdoor plants on top of a crystal this year( yes I’m 100% serious) I enjoy rockhounding and had some obsidian, some chalcedony, and some smoky quartz I had found I did not do this however. Maybe next year.

Then strangely my friends ex wife who is a healer gets a call from a friend who’s husband owns a massive greenhouse complex in Monterrey. They want to set up a crystal system in one of the greenhouse that amplifies and increase the plants energy. 

So people who are big in the game are exploring crystal ( let’s use the term energy) in their multimillion dollar setups.

I will make an effort to plant on top of different minerals in 2021 and report back ..

Also I realized you may be messing with me and my sarcasm meter is not tuned. In that case, enjoy a laugh.. I’m gonna click that link now


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## Bears_win (Nov 12, 2020)

DrHill said:


> I have a question about my overall plant health. Just wanted to know what I could do to make plants as healthy as possible. I cant tell if the one on the right has a deficiency or not. Growing in Fox Farms Ocean Forest, I also pictured their dry amendments that I am using. I have been considering ordering Earth Dust this week and only using that going forward.
> 
> **Side note: The one on the left seems to be showing indica traits which I like and I want to take clones but I am having a hard time finding good places to take cuttings. It's just one big trunk-like stem with giant fan leaves.
> 
> Plants are about 8-9 weeks old from seed. I am open to any and all tips, Thanks!


They look healthy to me , I recommend:

1.Supplementing with Silica : i buy potassium silicate in crystal form and dilute it myself. 15$ for a pound and it will make gallons of silica.

2.Additional calcium/ magnesium. I’ll top dress with Oyester shells or amend with extra oyester shell flour.15 $ for a 40 lb bag will last you years.
Magnesium sulphate ( Epsom salts ) for mag. Agricultural grade epsom is 50$ for 50 pounds. I use at a rate of about 1/4 cup per 25 gallons 

Or you can use a store bought cal/mag. It’s about 120$ / 5 gallons. 

3.Experiment with a fermented plant juice ( pick whatever is Growing locally and naturally and ferment in a 5 gallon bucket with a 1/2 cup of blackstrap molasses and 1/2 teaspoon brewers yeast ) add 4 gallons water and stir daily in a cool area for 4 days. 

Dilute with water 1 gallon ferment to 4 gallons h20 check pH and adjust if needed. 

4.Add 1 tablespoon plant derived 12-0-0 nitrogen, raw brand is what I use. It’s about 15 bucks for 100grams.

These are super inexpensive amendments that I find really work for me.

Disclaimer :

I dont claim to be a pro, but I have used all of these methods and find it greens up your plants quick, prevents micronutrient deficiencies and is an inexpensive way to bolster your feeding and have fun ( especially #3)


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## smokin away (Nov 15, 2020)

Bears_win said:


> I had good intentions to plant all my outdoor plants on top of a crystal this year( yes I’m 100% serious) I enjoy rockhounding and had some obsidian, some chalcedony, and some smoky quartz I had found I did not do this however. Maybe next year.
> 
> Then strangely my friends ex wife who is a healer gets a call from a friend who’s husband owns a massive greenhouse complex in Monterrey. They want to set up a crystal system in one of the greenhouse that amplifies and increase the plants energy.
> 
> ...


Thanks, I was curious and never read about it. Nice idea and worthy for drainage too


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## living gardening (Feb 28, 2021)

greasemonkeymann said:


> Absolutely not true, a bladder full in a five gallon bucket is THE best fast acting nitrogen supplement.
> If you ARE having a nitro def, you'll see a difference in about two to three days with urine.
> Just make 100% SURE it is a nitro def though.
> And maybe pop a couple mulitvitamins about four hrs prior too...
> ...


Agree, my wife is a nurse. She has informed that unless you got some shite wrong urine is sterile when it leaves you.
Peeing on compost piles and in the garden is common place old folk lore. Not so false. .


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## portfolio (Mar 24, 2022)

video about organic . i guess the title says , reasons not to use chemicals on plants .






enjoy


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## DrBuzzFarmer (Mar 30, 2022)

Gee, I wonder who tended the Primeval forests, before we cut them all down.
Must have been the dwarves and elves we hear so much about.
One thing this thread has taught me is that organic soil must be tended just like hydro.
This is 27 pages of nonsense.


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## PadawanWarrior (Mar 30, 2022)

DrBuzzFarmer said:


> Gee, I wonder who tended the Primeval forests, before we cut them all down.
> Must have been the dwarves and elves we hear so much about.
> One thing this thread has taught me is that organic soil must be tended just like hydro.
> This is 27 pages of nonsense.


So you don't grow organically I take it?


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## DrBuzzFarmer (Mar 30, 2022)

PadawanWarrior said:


> So you don't grow organically I take it?


For 30 or so years.
What I see in this thread is, by and large, not organic.
Let's consider another definition of organic:
"Involving organisms or the products of their life processes."

It's easy to take a hydro mindset into a more natural style of growing, and essentially end up with an 'organic' sort of hybrid growing system.
But organic soil that allows a plant to fully express it's genetic potential is Humic soil.
You cannot have that AND have a tea regimen.
You cannot have that while your pot is a compost pile.
You cannot have that if the components are not there.

All the amending, top dressing, and tea waterings in this thread make it impossible to have Humic soil.
This is a thread for hydro in dirt.
Not mad or anything, just saw a spade, and well, you know...


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## PadawanWarrior (Mar 30, 2022)

DrBuzzFarmer said:


> For 30 or so years.
> What I see in this thread is, by and large, not organic.
> Let's consider another definition of organic:
> "Involving organisms or the products of their life processes."
> ...


I think I misunderstood you. I think I get it now,


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## FamMan (Mar 31, 2022)

DrBuzzFarmer said:


> For 30 or so years.
> What I see in this thread is, by and large, not organic.
> Let's consider another definition of organic:
> "Involving organisms or the products of their life processes."
> ...


Why would tea watering prevent someone from having humic soil? I understand this isn't happening in nature but this is for the most part about indoor cultivation right? What would you do differently than all the "ammending, top dressing, and tea watering"?


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## DrBuzzFarmer (Mar 31, 2022)

DrBuzzFarmer said:


> For 30 or so years.
> What I see in this thread is, by and large, not organic.
> Let's consider another definition of organic:
> "Involving organisms or the products of their life processes."
> ...





FamMan said:


> Why would tea watering prevent someone from having humic soil? I understand this isn't happening in nature but this is for the most part about indoor cultivation right? What would you do differently than all the "ammending, top dressing, and tea watering"?


Glomalin.
The very reason Mycorrhizae is so important.
Not to mention a tea immediately upsets the balance of organisms in the soil.
It creates a system of bacterial blooms to replace a healthy ecosystem.
Teas become a necessary component of the growing style you have created.

The correct way to cultivate Humic soil conditions is to top dress finished compost regularly. Any amendments the grower deems necessary should be added to the compost pile to be broken down into plant available nutrients first.
There's no way to get around the microlife in the soil if you want to call it organic growing.


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## FamMan (Mar 31, 2022)

DrBuzzFarmer said:


> Glomalin.
> The very reason Mycorrhizae is so important.
> Not to mention a tea immediately upsets the balance of organisms in the soil.
> It creates a system of bacterial blooms to replace a healthy ecosystem.
> ...


Thanx for explaining that.(Runs to go look up Glomalon definition) I don't believe teas are necessary in my growing style. When I first read what you wrote I told myself it sounded very Dr. Elaine Ingham-ish. And I see you are a fan of hers. She has a brilliant mind. I have a few questions for ya. 
Teas can't be fungal dominant and not create these bacterial blooms? What about extracts? 
Container growing while using amendments, water-soluble nutrients, worms, and outsourced high quality humic inputs can't have 'microlife'? Isn't all that you are saying that needs to happen in the compost pile happening in my containers? Top dress, worms eat, things break down, and boom! Plant available nutes?


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## DrBuzzFarmer (Mar 31, 2022)

FamMan said:


> Thanx for explaining that.(Runs to go look up Glomalon definition) I don't believe teas are necessary in my growing style. When I first read what you wrote I told myself it sounded very Dr. Elaine Ingham-ish. And I see you are a fan of hers. She has a brilliant mind. I have a few questions for ya.
> Teas can't be fungal dominant and not create these bacterial blooms? What about extracts?
> Container growing while using amendments, water-soluble nutrients, worms, and outsourced high quality humic inputs can't have 'microlife'? Isn't all that you are saying that needs to happen in the compost pile happening in my containers? Top dress, worms eat, things break down, and boom! Plant available nutes?


Teas CAN be fungal dominant. Chitin and Chitosan added to a good fish hydrolysate evens the bacterial/fungal balance. You would use such a tea to fortify your yard when the grass is thinning and looking unhealthy. But it's impossible to brew a tea without a bacterial bloom. That's the entire purpose of the tea making process.
That's just the thing. A tea is used to fix a broken system. It's a last ditch effort.
Because a tea immediately eats away at the Glomalin soaking the carbon of your soil. Glomalin literally makes the environment for ALL the microlife. It's the concrete holding the soil together.
The enzymes in most teas is a dose Nature NEVER supplies and is equivalent to bottled nutes. 
A compost pile and growing medium have a different balance of soil life. A compost pile is like a job site, while the pot is like a home. No one wants to live in a construction site if given a choice.
The simple solution is to add your amendments at the construction site, not on your front lawn. Compost amendments and apply only finished compost to the pots.


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## FamMan (Apr 1, 2022)

DrBuzzFarmer said:


> Teas CAN be fungal dominant. Chitin and Chitosan added to a good fish hydrolysate evens the bacterial/fungal balance. You would use such a tea to fortify your yard when the grass is thinning and looking unhealthy. But it's impossible to brew a tea without a bacterial bloom. That's the entire purpose of the tea making process.
> That's just the thing. A tea is used to fix a broken system. It's a last ditch effort.
> Because a tea immediately eats away at the Glomalin soaking the carbon of your soil. Glomalin literally makes the environment for ALL the microlife. It's the concrete holding the soil together.
> The enzymes in most teas is a dose Nature NEVER supplies and is equivalent to bottled nutes.
> ...


I appreciate you sharing all of that. You have given me some food for thought. If I can ask one last question(although kinda off topic). Do you think the organic way you describe(feeding the compost) creates a higher quality product than someone top dressing, adding mycorrhizal, using teas, water soluble nutrients/minerals, and high-quality humic inputs?


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## DrBuzzFarmer (Apr 22, 2022)

FamMan said:


> I appreciate you sharing all of that. You have given me some food for thought. If I can ask one last question(although kinda off topic). Do you think the organic way you describe(feeding the compost) creates a higher quality product than someone top dressing, adding mycorrhizal, using teas, water soluble nutrients/minerals, and high-quality humic inputs?


And that's the million dollar question.
The answer is yes. Though it will be argued endlessly.
The reason I say so is this:
There is a bacteria, fungi, or other organism that processes every element on the planet.
They will blow in on the wind to a compost pile; the local varieties which are hardy in your area. The microlife will crawl to the pile to do their job.
They need to find a place to live which suits their needs.
The Mycorrhizae fungus is creating Humic soil by excreting Glomalin from it's hyphae to soak the decomposed carbon.
The environment males it magic happen.
Without the environment, you are practicing hydro in soil, with naturally acquired amendments.
Teas and such destroy the Glomalin soaked carbon immediately, making it dirt again, rather than soil.
Further, it is the MINERALS which are depleted, or not existing, in most people's soilless growing mixes, and soil mixes themselves. Minerals are acquired by rock dusts. The bacteria which consume rock are the slowest to respond in the spectrum, yet they form a solid foundation upon which the entire spectrum can be supported.
To successfully fortify missing minerals from your soil can take years.
I am seeing exquisite results from beds I laid 10 years ago.
I can draw traits out of genetics that most people never see.
They are trouble free beds that get the majority of my fresh compost when I am not using it in the yard. All amending is done (other than rock dusts) in the compost pile. 3 years ago they were average beds. Then Mother Nature took over.


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## Hiphophippo (Apr 22, 2022)

Happy soil, happy plants love it! my wife thinks I’m crazy that I pay more attention to my soil and it’s molecular make up than I do the plants sometimes. Great thread


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## DrBuzzFarmer (Apr 22, 2022)

Hiphophippo said:


> Happy soil, happy plants love it! my wife thinks I’m crazy that I pay more attention to my soil and it’s molecular make up than I do the plants sometimes. Great thread


Growing plants are the fruit of your labors tending the soil. The growing happens naturally, if we provide the puzzle pieces. 
Minerals, organic matter, and moisture.
That's the secret recipe. Mother Nature will deliver the rest.
Any soil in the world, in the temperature zone to support life, needs those three basic things to grow plants. Those three things, and it's off to the races.
We are learning to grow the athletes of the plant world, so we need to pay attention to the science of what we are doing.


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## FamMan (Apr 22, 2022)

DrBuzzFarmer said:


> And that's the million dollar question.
> The answer is yes. Though it will be argued endlessly.
> The reason I say so is this:
> There is a bacteria, fungi, or other organism that processes every element on the planet.
> ...


Man I been checking this thread almost everyday hoping you would respond! Ty.


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## DrBuzzFarmer (Apr 22, 2022)

FamMan said:


> Man I been checking this thread almost everyday hoping you would respond! Ty.


Sorry man.
I got 5 Golden Tiger in Earth Dust that I've amended. My cat has been grazing on them. She is as excited as me to have pure sativa growing again.
I've had to be proactive, and thus busy. 
I try to come around when there's a quiet moment.


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## myke (Apr 22, 2022)

Hiphophippo said:


> Happy soil, happy plants love it! my wife thinks I’m crazy that I pay more attention to my soil and it’s molecular make up than I do the plants sometimes. Great thread


I talk to my soil daily like its my dog.


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## DrBuzzFarmer (Apr 22, 2022)

myke said:


> I talk to my soil daily like its my dog.


It's a slippery slope.
Next, you be planting King Stropharia in the understory of your plants for the gnomes to sit on.


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## myke (Apr 22, 2022)

DrBuzzFarmer said:


> It's a slippery slope.
> Next, you be planting King Stropharia in the understory of your plants for the gnomes to sit on.


Thanks for the heads up.Ill keep my cleats on.


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## Hiphophippo (Apr 22, 2022)

I


myke said:


> I talk to my soil daily like its my dog.


 I like to think that because I loved my soil so much thru it’s creation that it would like to repay me with a healthy harvest and show me why I’m so proud to call it mine


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## DrBuzzFarmer (Apr 22, 2022)

Hiphophippo said:


> I
> 
> I like to think that because I loved my soil so much thru it’s creation that it would like to repay me with a healthy harvest and show me why I’m so proud to call it mine


See, I see my soil more along the way I see my home town.
I'm always seeking the right neighbors to move in.
I harvest organic matter from the local park, along with humic soil to inoculate into my compost pile. Trees are mineral miners, they dive deep for minerals and bring them to the surface. I seek a variety of material for my compost pile. 
That's how I show my love.


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## Hiphophippo (Apr 22, 2022)

DrBuzzFarmer said:


> See, I see my soil more along the way I see my home town.
> I'm always seeking the right neighbors to move in.
> I harvest organic matter from the local park, along with humic soil to inoculate into my compost pile. Trees are mineral miners, they dive deep for minerals and bring them to the surface. I seek a variety of material for my compost pile.
> That's how I show my love.


Do you use natty light as an inoculate lol no but for real I get it I put a lot of effort and thought into my soil and that’s why it grows nice beautiful monsters


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## DrBuzzFarmer (Apr 22, 2022)

Hiphophippo said:


> Do you use natty light as an inoculate lol no but for real I get it I put a lot of effort and thought into my soil and that’s why it grows nice beautiful monsters


I worked on theories and book learnin' for years, trusting what I was learning was right. Everyone telling me I was wasting my time.
Now I have beds that no one else can replicate without years of work.
I've just always been the sharing kind of guy.


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## plantinggreen (Aug 12, 2022)




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## plantinggreen (Aug 12, 2022)




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## [email protected] (Aug 20, 2022)

folliwing


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## DoubleNickles (Nov 10, 2022)

DrBuzzFarmer said:


> It's a slippery slope.
> Next, you be planting King Stropharia in the understory of your plants for the gnomes to sit on.


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