# Anyone Have Problems with Hygrozyme?



## Knally (Apr 10, 2009)

Long story short, I ran out of Hydroguard by GH that I have used for years in my hydro reservoirs. Stopped in a hydro store to get some and told that it is discontinued and that Aqua-Shield or something is gong to replace it. So the hydro owner told me to use Hygrozyme instead of the GH products at 3x the cost.

Anyway I changed out the various res on my 48 plants in different stages of clone, veg & flower and ended up with slimy brown roots and a nute lockout.

I have since flushed with Clearex, changed the reservoir out a couple of times and added hydrogen peroxide. That was two weeks ago. I lost several of my girls and many are looking bad.

The good news is that see a lot of new white growth coming along and some stability to the leaf color. Bad news is that 5 of the girls didn't make it.

I used half strength initially and have cut it back to a quarter strength on the Hygrozyme recommended dosage on the bottle.


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## Knally (Apr 14, 2009)

Bump - Anyone? What else do you use to treat your res water? I have flushed and my girls still have nute lockout. I'm losing 16 of my clones - Strawberry Cough, Dutch Dragon, Blueberry and White Widow! *%^#&8


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## bdomina (Apr 14, 2009)

Knally said:


> Bump - Anyone? What else do you use to treat your res water? I have flushed and my girls still have nute lockout. I'm losing 16 of my clones - Strawberry Cough, Dutch Dragon, Blueberry and White Widow! *%^#&8


 
although i can not give u details. i have heard first hand from very experienced growers that it is worth every penny. i would say give it a try. anything would be better than losing all that. best of luck to u


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## Knally (Apr 15, 2009)

bdomina said:


> although i can not give u details. i have heard first hand from very experienced growers that it is worth every penny. i would say give it a try. anything would be better than losing all that. best of luck to u


I did give it a try so far and have lost at least 6 girls with more looking pretty bad. I'm back to ph'd water and low nutrients again to clear the nute lockout.

I would say that the Hygrozyme reacted with my nutrients or other supplements because I have a slimy brown sediment on the bottom and the roots are all brown. Nute lockout continues - lost two more in veg and one 3 weeks into flowering.


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## Wohjew (Apr 15, 2009)

HYGROZYME is the shit


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## Knally (Apr 15, 2009)

Wohjew said:


> HYGROZYME is the shit


HYGROZYME gave my girls the shits


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## sscr250 (Apr 16, 2009)

i dont have a lot of ex with it but i have used it and it also made a sorta brown slime grow on everything it touched i dont use it anymore i call it igrowslyme though now i think i may have had a bad or old batch i use h2o2 with great results sofar but NOT if your using any organics h2o2 will cause lockouts in organic nutes


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## KP2 (Apr 16, 2009)

i got root rot and lost a total of about 9lbs because of hygrozyme and associated root rot. i quit using it, cleaned everything, went back to normal mixes used before hygrozyme, and pow! no issues.

hygrozyme is pythium in a bottle.


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## Knally (Apr 16, 2009)

KP2 said:


> i got root rot and lost a total of about 9lbs because of hygrozyme and associated root rot. i quit using it, cleaned everything, went back to normal mixes used before hygrozyme, and pow! no issues.
> 
> hygrozyme is pythium in a bottle.


You love it or hate it. I hate it now. Even though I have quit using it and flushed with ph'd water and Clearex a couple of times; the nutrient lockout continues. I washed all of the brown slime off of the roots and the slime in the res. The girls are still yellowing and dropping leaves like there's no tomorrow. Trying ph'd water with nutrients, supplements, but no water treatment and definitely no Hygrozyme.


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## KP2 (Apr 16, 2009)

Knally said:


> You love it or hate it. I hate it now. Even though I have quit using it and flushed with ph'd water and Clearex a couple of times; the nutrient lockout continues. I washed all of the brown slime off of the roots and the slime in the res. The girls are still yellowing and dropping leaves like there's no tomorrow. Trying ph'd water with nutrients, supplements, but no water treatment and definitely no Hygrozyme.


you have pythium, same as i had. unfortunately it will not go away. the only way to kill it is to cull your plants and clean/sterilize your system and every component that touches water. pythium is contagious, so even if you have some plants that look ok atm, they are going to get much worse. do not run any new plants until the system is clean. and don't use hygrozyme, use cannazyme if you're looking for an enzyme product.

i'm sorry to hear of your misfortune, and really hope my loss helps you. clean the system and get it back in top shape.


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## Knally (Apr 16, 2009)

KP2 said:


> you have pythium, same as i had. unfortunately it will not go away. the only way to kill it is to cull your plants and clean/sterilize your system and every component that touches water. pythium is contagious, so even if you have some plants that look ok atm, they are going to get much worse. do not run any new plants until the system is clean. and don't use hygrozyme, use cannazyme if you're looking for an enzyme product.
> 
> i'm sorry to hear of your misfortune, and really hope my loss helps you. clean the system and get it back in top shape.


Thanks for the info KP2. I sterilized and cleaned the system with chlorine water and nontoxic algecide also, but couldn't get all of the hydroton pellets thoroughly cleaned since the new root growth is throughout the media now.

I hope you're wrong about no recovery... I have new white root growth going on and green vegetative starts going on. I'm just hoping to save the rest of the girls even if it takes a little longer. All, except 2, are known to be females.

Pythium, huh? I'll do more research and continue to nurse the girls as long as there is hope of recovery.


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## KP2 (Apr 16, 2009)

it's easier to prevent than to treat...

here's some info...

*Under the right environmental conditions, virtually every plant species is vulnerable to Pythium, which not only causes `damping off' of seedlings but causes root and stem rot of older plants. Symptoms of Pythium on older plants are a wet rot, root systems will be browned, roots hollow and collapsed. Plants may appear to grow poorly, and wilt for no apparent reason - indicating that an examination of the root system is called for. Pythium has an optimum temperature range for infection of plants, this is generally between 20 - 30C (68 - 86 F), although infection can occur outside this range when damaged plant tissue is available for rapid colonisation by the pathogen. Low concentrations of Pythium that may not cause problems at lower temperatures will be disastrous at higher temperatures, particularly where the warmer conditions are associated with a lack of oxygen in the root zone and plant stress. 

The best preventative measure against Pythium attack is a healthy, rapidly growing plant as this is an opportunist pathogen and will enter at the site of tissue injury or if the plants are overly succulent, weakened or stressed for some reason. Often root damage during the seedling stage as plants are introduced to the hydroponic system is a danger time for Pythium infection. Pythium is of greatest threat during the seed germination and seedling development stage when plants are most vulnerable to attack, and adequate control and elimination of the pathogen during this stage is the best preventative measure of Pythium control in hydroponic systems. Strong healthy plants will develop resistance to Pythium attack during the seedling stage and this will prevent problems at a later stage of growth. 

Other preventative measures include the use of a well drained media, thorough disinfection of all equipment between crops (a strong hypochlorite solution - bleach is the most effective), and control of pathogens during the seedling stages with a suitable fungicide, long before they are introducing into your hydroponic system. Occasionally a very high spore load, combined with excessive temperature will result in Pythium attacking even healthy plants, if this is the case, it is likely that there is an active source of spore production present, and the system must be shut down and disinfected. Some growers have found the use of wetting agents and chlorination of the nutrient solution beneficial in limiting the damage caused by Pythium, however extreme care needs to be taken when using products such as calcium hypochlorite as to much active chlorine will kill sensitive plants. UV light, hydrogen peroxide and ozone have also been used to kill Pythium spores in the solution, however these can have major effects on some of the nutrient elements in solution and careful consideration should be given before using these methods. Sterilisation of the water supply with these methods, before nutrient are added however, is effective at reducing or eliminating Pythium from the original water supply. 

Therefore by ensuring your plants are healthy and stress free, you will not only get the highest growth rates possible, but also prevent problems such as Pythium infection occurring. The variables to remember with regard to the nutrient solution is that aeration is vital to maintain the dissolved oxygen levels, temperatures should be keep within an optimum range, and Pythium is always present, but a healthy plant is the best measure of protection against a disease outbreak. About the oxygen requirement of plants when in flower...its not always the case that plants require more oxygen because they are in flower, a plants oxygen requirement is linked to the size of the root system, temperature and nutrient uptake rates, rather than the presence of flowering. So since plants such as tomatoes tend to have a rapidly developing root system at the time of flowering, its important to maintain adequate oxygen levels. With tomatoes the requirement of oxygen in the root zone increases gradually up until the time of maximum fruit load and rapid fruit expansion, where the high rates of nutrient uptake increase the oxygen requirement quite dramatically. On the other hand, if oxygen is deficient during flowering, then the flowers and subsequent fruit may drop off as a result, or they may be undersized and may fail to pollinate.*


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## brothafromanothaplanet (Apr 16, 2009)

i don't really know what to tell you guys. i've used hygrozyme religiously for all my grows and i have never had a problem with root rot. in fact i'm using it during my current grow and my roots look great! are you using the product as recommended?? i think it calls for 8 - 10 ml per gallon and says to never exceed 15 ml per gal. it could be that the hygrozyme reacted with some of your other nutes. but i've used several different brands of nutes with no problems. what about res temps?? sorry about your problems, bro, but i wouldn't think about growing hydro without hygrozyme.


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## Rudeboy007 (Apr 16, 2009)

Knally, sorry to hear about your bad luck man. I'm having the SAME issues with my table and I don't know what to do!! Now I'm wondering if it's the Hygrozyme. My girls are locked out and I'm losing precious time. How long were yours locked out for? I'm going to the store today to talk to the guy and see what he says. I'm at a loss. I use Pure Blend Pro but am thinking of switching to GH. What are u using? Good luck and I'll let you know what I find out.


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## KP2 (Apr 16, 2009)

Rudeboy007 said:


> Knally, sorry to hear about your bad luck man. I'm having the SAME issues with my table and I don't know what to do!! Now I'm wondering if it's the Hygrozyme. My girls are locked out and I'm losing precious time. How long were yours locked out for? I'm going to the store today to talk to the guy and see what he says. I'm at a loss. I use Pure Blend Pro but am thinking of switching to GH. What are u using? Good luck and I'll let you know what I find out.


i use gh, same deal. hygrozyme was proven the issue in my garden. fine for 3 years without it, pythium while using, fine now that i'm not and have everything cleaned.

fuck hygrozyme


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## Knally (Apr 16, 2009)

KP2 said:


> i use gh, same deal. hygrozyme was proven the issue in my garden. fine for 3 years without it, pythium while using, fine now that i'm not and have everything cleaned.
> 
> fuck hygrozyme


Agreed! I use GH and have for years with little to no problems. My water temperature is always below 64 so heat isn't an issue.

Problems began when I substituted Hygrozyme for Hydroguard.

Time to find something else.


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## sscr250 (Apr 16, 2009)

i also use gh and like i sayd before i used HYGROWSLIME and like i call it igrewslime tuff to rid yourself of this tank herpie but if you can take your plants out of the system and put them somewhere temporary whail you can bleach everything else lit it DRY OUT bleach is BAD for plants but as long as you rinse and let it dry it works real good to sterilize your system use h2o2 35% you can get it at your local hobby(hydro) shop and its way cheap like 18$ for a gal also physan 20 is good shit heres some info i pulled off a website on this product i have some but have not used it yet as the h2o2 is holding things down but this would be great for between crop cleaning one guy clames he scrubed his res out with bleach water then ran this product and the pysan pulled all kinds of crap (even chunks of blak gunk) up from his res after bleach and its safe to use WITH your plants so anyway here is some info on that

edit: if your going to use physan 20 READ the instructions and maybee even use this at a lower than recomended strength its strong stuff man

[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]*PHYSAN 20&#8482;* is a broad range disinfectant, fungicide, virucide, and algaecide which effectively controls a wide variety of pathogens on hard surfaces and plants. Its applications include greenhouses; hard surfaces; lawn and turfgrass; seedlings and cut flowers; decorative fountains, pools and birdbaths; and plants.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]*PHYSAN 20 *is an EPA approved concentrate formulated with unique germicidal agents to provide overall protection for your plants and greenhouses.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]*PHYSAN 20* poses no human or environmental risk when it is used at recommended use levels and according to label instructions.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]*PHYSAN 20 *controls disease-spreading organisms which can be carried from plant to plant by using contaminated pots, flats, seed beds, soil, tools and human hands.[/FONT]


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## Pockets le Peu (Apr 16, 2009)

dude it pithium if for every new set of leaves u get u lose a lower set. its in ur hydroton rocks and is suffocating ur plants as well as eating the roots away thats why u lose for every new growth, ur getting little to any nutrient uptake. ur better off trying to remove and replace as much hydroton as possible then overdose on h2o2. i bet any amout u find exactly what u dont want to see in there, its gonna be nasty. i beat it twice, after i tweaked a flaw in my system i was left with an infection 2 weeks into flowering. being that the roots were being eaten they were easy to remove which should be ur case, pick off as much dead matter and rocks as u can and spray clean w/ a shower head. use new rocks and pots after sterilizing ur system and give alil more than the max amount of h2o2, i used a half bottle(3%) per 8 gal. by the way hygrozyme made it worst i found out when i got it straight and it almost got me again, cleaned it again and thats when i knew the hygrozyme enhanced the problem. it just attacked my seedlings also( im careless, but not dumb )but i had to mute that immediately. pithium fears me


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## grandpabear3 (Apr 16, 2009)

i use gh 3 part and hygrozyme only in my flowering tanks and my clones. the only time i ever had anything bad happen with it was when i put it in my clone water bottle and sprayed the cuttings at the base of the stems to water them twice daily. overkill to say the least.....lost like 10-12 clones.


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## fishenfool06 (Apr 16, 2009)

bugsrnme said:


> i use gh 3 part and hygrozyme only in my flowering tanks and my clones. the only time i ever had anything bad happen with it was when i put it in my clone water bottle and sprayed the cuttings at the base of the stems to water them twice daily. overkill to say the least.....lost like 10-12 clones.


 
i use higrozime and love it , it saved me when my roots were brown and slimey 2 weeks with hygrozime and no more rot and lots of new root groth. it will eat the bad roots and make new ons.


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## Knally (Apr 17, 2009)

fishenfool06 said:


> i use higrozime and love it , it saved me when my roots were brown and slimey 2 weeks with hygrozime and no more rot and lots of new root groth. it will eat the bad roots and make new ons.


It turned my roots brown and slimy. and killed several girls. Hygrozyme didn't save them; I believe that hygrozyme caused the problem and killed them.

I only have new growth since I flushed with ph'd Clearex and stopped using Hygrozyme.


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## KP2 (Apr 17, 2009)

fishenfool06 said:


> i use higrozime and love it , it saved me when my roots were brown and slimey 2 weeks with hygrozime and no more rot and lots of new root groth. it will eat the bad roots and make new ons.


unfortunately it seems to do the opposite for a lot of people; hygrozyme eats good roots and makes root rot.


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## morrisgreenberg (Apr 17, 2009)

Hey Knally, Hygrozyme is the best, heres what happens, when you first notice and slight browning of the roots pythium is just starting to set in, once you add hygrozyme to roots that are infected, it eats away the pythium, dead/dying roots and sprouts massive new root growth within 3-5 days, now if you werent using it and didnt have problems initially, it may or may not cause some browning and start the phase over again, usually with me i have been using it for 5 months now is it gets real ugly then becomes amazing, but i wouldn't use it like nutes going 1/4 and 1/2 strenght, that stuff needs to be used 8-10ML/gal....saved a whole batch of clones from devestating root rot, but if you have root rot, my advice is to use hygrozyme and change out the rez daily for 5 days, the eaten up roots get nasty and slimier than original root rot and makes the water horrible, and in a week you will have all new roots and any trace of the old roots basically dissolved


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## Knally (Apr 17, 2009)

morrisgreenberg said:


> Hey Knally, Hygrozyme is the best, heres what happens, when you first notice and slight browning of the roots pythium is just starting to set in, once you add hygrozyme to roots that are infected, it eats away the pythium, dead/dying roots and sprouts massive new root growth within 3-5 days, now if you werent using it and didnt have problems initially, it may or may not cause some browning and start the phase over again, usually with me i have been using it for 5 months now is it gets real ugly then becomes amazing, but i wouldn't use it like nutes going 1/4 and 1/2 strenght, that stuff needs to be used 8-10ML/gal....saved a whole batch of clones from devestating root rot, but if you have root rot, my advice is to use hygrozyme and change out the rez daily for 5 days, the eaten up roots get nasty and slimier than original root rot and makes the water horrible, and in a week you will have all new roots and any trace of the old roots basically dissolved


 
You're not going to convince me that it's the best shtuff right now. Several rez changes and flushes later the girls have white roots and green growth without the Hygrozyme now. No root rot or pithium without the Hygrozyme.

Not going to use it any more. Period. Didn't have any problems before Hygrozyme and looks like none after it; only with it.


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## KP2 (Apr 17, 2009)

Knally said:


> You're not going to convince me that it's the best shtuff right now. Several rez changes and flushes later the girls have white roots and green growth without the Hygrozyme now. No root rot or pithium without the Hygrozyme.
> 
> Not going to use it any more. Period. Didn't have any problems before Hygrozyme and looks like none after it; only with it.



ditto. i had a perfect root structure in my tables and tubes. used hygrozyme and POOF!!!! root rot. i quit and clean, get nice roots again, add hygrozyme and POOF!!!!!! root rot!!!! cull and clean, lose the hygrozyme, and i've not had another problems since. also important to note that i had never had pythium issues before using hygrozyme, nor do i have them now.

hygrozyme is pythium in a bottle.


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## fishenfool06 (Apr 19, 2009)

KP2 said:


> ditto. i had a perfect root structure in my tables and tubes. used hygrozyme and POOF!!!! root rot. i quit and clean, get nice roots again, add hygrozyme and POOF!!!!!! root rot!!!! cull and clean, lose the hygrozyme, and i've not had another problems since. also important to note that i had never had pythium issues before using hygrozyme, nor do i have them now.
> 
> hygrozyme is pythium in a bottle.


 
IDK i just left my grow. im flushing my system, im in my 9th week of flowering and im waiting for the triks to turn i was a little scared . i was out of little and needed to resupply, with everything that has been said i was nurvace about buying more. my hydro resupply said , nobody ever complained about it , and asked me to tell her if something should happen with my grow. my roots are so white in the 9th week , i have never had such good roots this long into the grow without hygrozime. if u look into my photos u can see some of the plants from befor i found hygrozime ,rotted from the roots all the way up the stalk . i didn't know what was happening to my plants, until i learned about pithya. i was at my end, i didn't know what else to do . i could not bring anything to full term. it all rotted before maturity. hygrozime saved me.


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## grandpabear3 (Apr 20, 2009)

fishenfool06 said:


> i could not bring anything to full term. it all rotted before maturity. hygrozime saved me.


that is because it works. the ones having trouble with it (if it really is the problem) are the exception, not the rule. 

keep the faith.


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## 420MED (Apr 20, 2009)

shit I just added hygrozyme to my mix too with pure blend pro. I have no problems hopefully i'll be ok. What are you guys using instead of hydroguard?


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## Knally (Apr 20, 2009)

I'm still researching. Notice that Hygrozyme is not listed as a substitute.


Hydroguard Bio Fungicide​
Hydroguard, by Botanicare, contains a mixture of beneficial bacteria that helps protect your plant's rootsystem from root rot when growing with hydroponics. 
It forms a barrier that doesn't allow the bad bacteria to infect the roots. Unlike the use of fungicides alone, the use of Hydroguard breaks the chronic disease cycle while leaving no toxic residues.
Hydroguard is especially effective when used with seedlings or cuttings in clone machines, or trays. Best when used right after planting seeds or taking cuttings.
Use Hydroguard up to 1 Tablespoon per gallon to your reservoir. Hydroguard also works well in soil.

Hydroguard Bio Fungicide contains:
Bacillus subtilis
Paenibacillus polymxa
Bacillus circulans
Bacillus amyloliquefaciens​Hydroguard Bio Fungicide is temporarily unavailable pending Department of Agriculture re-approval.
Consider these alternative root system stimulants that help increase the ability to fight off harmful bacteria or root rot:
Bio-Cat (Same active ingredients)
Plantacillin (Bacillus subtilis)
General Hydroponics Flora Shield
Dutch Master Zone 
Piranaha Beneficial Fungi 
Voodoo Juice 
Plant Success Soluble 
Plant Success Great White Soluble 
Watermax 
OxyMax
​


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## KP2 (Apr 20, 2009)

bugsrnme said:


> that is because it works. the ones having trouble with it (if it really is the problem) are the exception, not the rule.
> 
> keep the faith.


that's what my hydro guy said too. funny thing though; he no longer stocks it and refuses to sell what he has left.

i wonder why.....


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## morrisgreenberg (Apr 20, 2009)

you know why you dont see hygrozyme on that list?? cus its not a beneficial, they clearly state that they dont want to introduce bacteria, good or bad to a sterile growing environment, put it this way, if you add hygro to your water and roots turn brown, that only means you had something going on in your rez, it just gobbles up everything insight, nothing happened to my roots except they stood bone white, as an experiment i let the rez temps reach 76 for 10 days and still bone white, but hey those other products you listed i hear are good too and i am not trying to shove this stuff down your throat but anyone i recommended this stuff to saved thier crops


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## Knally (Apr 20, 2009)

morrisgreenberg said:


> you know why you dont see hygrozyme on that list?? cus its not a beneficial, they clearly state that they dont want to introduce bacteria, good or bad to a sterile growing environment, put it this way, if you add hygro to your water and roots turn brown, that only means you had something going on in your rez, it just gobbles up everything insight, nothing happened to my roots except they stood bone white, as an experiment i let the rez temps reach 76 for 10 days and still bone white, but hey those other products you listed i hear are good too and i am not trying to shove this stuff down your throat but anyone i recommended this stuff to saved thier crops


Well, I'm glad that there are growers who love Hygrozyme and benefit by it. I've quit using Hygrozyme for two weeks now and have great white root growth going on again and lots of new green growth.

Peace and great growing to all. Do what works best for you because in the end you have to be happy with what you reap. No one else.

I will continue not using Hygrozyme.


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## fishenfool06 (Apr 20, 2009)

knally said:


> well, i'm glad that there are growers who love hygrozyme and benefit by it. I've quit using hygrozyme for two weeks now and have great white root growth going on again and lots of new green growth.
> 
> Peace and great growing to all. Do what works best for you because in the end you have to be happy with what you reap. No one else.
> 
> I will continue not using hygrozyme.


if u are not using hygrozime and will not use it againe. Why did u use it in the first place? Did u have some root problems befor using? Or were u just wanting to better your grow?


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## Knally (Apr 20, 2009)

fishenfool06 said:


> if u are not using hygrozime and will not use it againe. Why did u use it in the first place? Did u have some root problems befor using? Or were u just wanting to better your grow?


Just like I started the thread out.... ran out of Hydroguard, a product that I have used for a long time. I needed a replacement for reservoir treatment and the hydro store owner told me Hygrozyme was good stuff and that Hydroguard is no longer made.

Had beautiful white roots and green foliage on my girls before I changed out the reservoirs and treated them with Hygrozyme. Then slimy, smelly roots with nutrient lockout happened and lost 8 girls total now.

I'll get something else as a treatment... but not Hygrozyme.


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## KP2 (Apr 20, 2009)

fishenfool06 said:


> if u are not using hygrozime and will not use it againe. Why did u use it in the first place? Did u have some root problems befor using? Or were u just wanting to better your grow?


i was told it would give a boost to the roots, and added yield. always searching for that golden nutrient, ya know?

what a sucker.... it may be possible that there was a bad batch that got distributed, which would explain the variation. however, all i've seen are people who either swear by it, or had my experience.


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## brothafromanothaplanet (Apr 21, 2009)

i don't know about you guys..........but hygrozyme is all right with me. i've only grown without it once during a test run against some stuff i have called stress zyme which is for aquariums. this grow i'm back with the hygrozyme and my roots are looking good. this pic is from my 6 week old plant from clone. the reddish tint is from the bud blood.


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## Return of the Spork (Apr 22, 2009)

When I started using Hygrozyme on my mothers who had unhealthy roots, I ended up with lots of shit in the tank. It is the leftovers of the roots hygrozyme was eating.

After a while, the buildup went away and now it is just all pretty.

Works for me, if it doesn't work for you then you can use whatever you like. My search ended with Hygrozyme though.

btw you cant just throw something like hygro into a system and make it all better. If your babies were diseased, it is more involved than a magic juice.


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## Knally (Apr 22, 2009)

Return of the Spork said:


> When I started using Hygrozyme on my mothers who had unhealthy roots, I ended up with lots of shit in the tank. It is the leftovers of the roots hygrozyme was eating.
> 
> After a while, the buildup went away and now it is just all pretty.
> 
> ...


Unlike you, my girls had bright white roots before Hygrozyme; they weren't diseased at all. Didn't need a magic juice until after Hygrozyme was introduced. After Hygrozyme...brown slime.

Once again,,, glad it works for most of you; not me. The remaining girls are back to good without further Hygrozyme torture treatments.


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## Knally (May 1, 2009)

Did some research and decided to try GH's Sub Culture-B as a replacement for the Botanicare Hydroguard that's off the market temporarily. We'll see how it works out although if Hydroguard is available again, I'll probably switch back to it since I had good success with it in the past and it's a lot cheaper than the Sub Culture-B.


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## GypsyBush (May 2, 2009)

I have had really good luck with both Hygrozyme and Sensizyme...

I change res every 2 weeks but I am not as diliginet with scrubbing everything very often... I also re-use hydroton...

No issues.. just white noodles coming out of the pots...

And I must say that adding Hygrozyme to my cloning has really impressed me...

Spaghetti noodles, almost glowing they are so white...

I likes it...


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## Knally (May 2, 2009)

GypsyBush said:


> I have had really good luck with both Hygrozyme and Sensizyme...
> 
> I change res every 2 weeks but I am not as diliginet with scrubbing everything very often... I also re-use hydroton...
> 
> ...


I've heard great stories and horror stories including my own experience with Hygrozyme. I'll keep trying bacteria-based products instead of enzyme-based products.

My plants have recovered since the Hygrozyme kill and I flushed, flushed and quit using Hygrozyme.


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## GypsyBush (May 2, 2009)

That's a bummer man...

Wish there was a way to critically analyze this to see what gives..

I swear by it, and this is the first time I have heard of troubles... sorry...


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## LegalizeCannabisHemp (May 4, 2009)

anyone use aquashield by botanicare?


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## Ahzweepay (May 5, 2009)

LegalizeCannabisHemp said:


> anyone use aquashield by botanicare?


I've just started using AquaShield and Hygrozyme in my tanks. I've had zero issues with my clone tank (other than when I also use SuperThrive), but my larger flowering tank does seem to get a bit funky (some slime/cloudiness) and the pH needs more attention.

As far as I'm concerned the jury is still out on AquaShield, but I have to say the roots in my cloner look waaay better this round with the Hygrozyme compared to my last batch that I did without...


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## KP2 (May 5, 2009)

Ahzweepay said:


> I've just started using AquaShield and Hygrozyme in my tanks. I've had zero issues with my clone tank (other than when I also use SuperThrive), but my larger flowering tank does seem to get a bit funky (some slime/cloudiness) and the pH needs more attention.
> 
> As far as I'm concerned the jury is still out on AquaShield, but I have to say the roots in my cloner look waaay better this round with the Hygrozyme compared to my last batch that I did without...


hydro guy said he had a lot of returns on a shipment that came a few months ago. it's possible that a batch of the formula was contaminated (seems highly probable, as few have the SAME issues, and everyone else is fine).

he made some calls, hygrozyme is supposed to be looking into it. i'll let you know what i find out.


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## LegalizeCannabisHemp (May 5, 2009)

KP2 said:


> hydro guy said he had a lot of returns on a shipment that came a few months ago. it's possible that a batch of the formula was contaminated (seems highly probable, as few have the SAME issues, and everyone else is fine).
> 
> he made some calls, hygrozyme is supposed to be looking into it. i'll let you know what i find out.


just for clarification do you mean the hygrozyme, or the aquashield had a bunch of returns.


how does enzyme bazed products work differently from bacteria based products, besides the obvious anyone have some good reading on the subject?

I am sorta in the same boat, I was using hydroguard, then it was no more, I tried running without any root guard, and had a small which I was able to tame through h202 treatments, I have since started using aquashield, seems to be doing good, I miss my hydroguard though .. WTF why couldnt they make the product again?

Is it cause the Gov doesnt want us to have something bomb.com, or because of something else.>?

I was in europe not to long ago.. TEN tabs of 100mg vitamin c tabs were 180 bucks, due to compliance with codex almentarius.
Over here I can get a bottle of a Hundred 1000mg vitamin c tabs for 7 bucks...

weird huh???


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## Knally (May 5, 2009)

LegalizeCannabisHemp said:


> just for clarification do you mean the hygrozyme, or the aquashield had a bunch of returns.
> 
> 
> how does enzyme bazed products work differently from bacteria based products, besides the obvious anyone have some good reading on the subject?
> ...


Hydroguard will be back after the FDA has approved their labelling. It appears that the label had an incorrect ingredient description for a component of Hydroguard that was misleading.

I'd like to hear from some of you who are using AquaShield.


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## lvpete (May 5, 2009)

My plants LOVE it!


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## GypsyBush (May 8, 2009)

I found this...

Thought it'd be appropriate for us to read...

Cheers...


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## LegalizeCannabisHemp (May 8, 2009)

Dude thats a great post


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## Hash Lover (May 8, 2009)

Great post, I've been doing alot of reading on that issue. Including this whole thread. Found it when searching about Hygrozyme, and read this tread before using it and then started with using it on one plant. I haven't used it long but can say at least no bad problems. I'm using it and Hydroguard together and have seen a small inprovment in the last week. New white roots coming out. And no slimy mess at all. On two different strains also.


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## Knally (May 8, 2009)

Hash Lover said:


> Great post, I've been doing alot of reading on that issue. Including this whole thread. Found it when searching about Hygrozyme, and read this tread before using it and then started with using it on one plant. I haven't used it long but can sat at least no bad problems. I'm using it and Hydroguard together and have seen a small inprovment in the last week. New white roots coming out. And no slimy mess at all. On two different strains also.


I'm glad for you. Hydroguard will be unavailable unil later this fall, so when you run out you may want to use Aquashield by Botanicare or Sub Culture-B by General Hydroponics. Hydroguard has some FDA labelling issues for now. So it is off the market.

Sub Culture B and AquaShield are bacteria-based products while hydrozyme is an enzyme product.

Good luck with HygroSlime.


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## NewGrowth (May 8, 2009)

GypsyBush said:


> I have had really good luck with both Hygrozyme and Sensizyme...
> 
> I change res every 2 weeks but I am not as diliginet with scrubbing everything very often... I also re-use hydroton...
> 
> ...


If you like white healthy roots use hygrozyme, I'm with gypsy


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## Knally (May 8, 2009)

NewGrowth said:


> If you like white healthy roots use hygrozyme, I'm with gypsy


Biased opinion. You didn't lose 8 girls to the plague.


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## NewGrowth (May 8, 2009)

Knally said:


> Biased opinion. You didn't lose 8 girls to the plague.


I lost a HUGE harvest to pythium. This was way more that 8 girls and recently actually. I treated it with MASSIVE doses of h2o2 and an industrial fungacide in an effort to control it. Eventually I cleared out the rootzone and it moved into the stems. I treated the stems very un-conventionally with an anti-fungal called gentian violet. I then finished the treatment with hygrozyme. I ended up with only two plants out of quite a few that survived and I'm flowering now after a transplant to soil. 

I feel your pain bro, but trust me it has little to do with hygrozyme.


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## grandpabear3 (May 9, 2009)

Knally said:


> Biased opinion. You didn't lose 8 girls to the plague.


and your opinion isn't? it's already been determined there was a shitty batch (it happens) 
get over it


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## Knally (May 9, 2009)

bugsrnme said:


> and your opinion isn't? it's already been determined there was a shitty batch (it happens)
> get over it


My opinion is very biased. I'm not going to lie and say that I had good results or even acceptable results with it. Tried it; didn't like it. Moved on to other products.

My girls are back to good,...I quit using Hygrozyme.

Whatever works for you bro. It just doesn't work for me.

You either love it or you hate from what I have seen. There are many other products to try if one doesn't work right for you.


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## Hash Lover (May 9, 2009)

I've switched back to AN nutes and such and want to see what they have to replace it and hygrozyme. Does anyone have any experience with something from AN?


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## GypsyBush (May 9, 2009)

Hash Lover said:


> I've switched back to AN nutes and such and want to see what they have to replace it and hygrozyme. Does anyone have any experience with something from AN?


I use AN's Sensizyme whenever I cannot get Hygrozyme...

My roots are way whiter and thicker with the hygrozyme, but I would qualify my Sensi roots as healthy too... just not EXPLODING like with Hygro...

Sensi has a very strong, rotten smell, and although it dissipates... it still stinks up my res...

Kinda like a BAAAAD fart... 

No disease or root rot so far though... I am on my 4th res on the sensi, as Hygro has been unavailable locally...

And in all honesty, I cannot wait to go back to hygro... maybe it's the label I am falling for... or maybe it's the roots I see...

Now.. I have never seen anything that works for everyone...

People have different "hands" and I truly believe that what works for someone, may not work for someone else...


----------



## Santos L Halper (May 9, 2009)

I use GH nutes with a little bit of Floralicious Plus. I'm still pretty green when it comes to hydro so I haven't had any issues yet. My res also never get above 68F. 

I've thought about swapping out the Floralicious for H2o2+Hygrozyme, and using GH + h2o2 + hygrozyme, but I can't find any h2o2 locally  (although I'm probably not looking in the right place). From what I've read, Hygrozyme will enhance any baddies in your system, so the h2o2 helps control that while the hygrozyme helps the plants. Something like that.


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## Hash Lover (May 10, 2009)

IMO, I would not use the H2O2 as a regular part of my mix. Now this is from what I've read as I am new to hydro. I have used it twice to help with root rot problems and saved the plants both times. But only used it for the first couple days. Did one dose and did not add more to replace it. That and using my chlorinated tap water to flush did the trick. But I think the H2O2 will kill the hygrozyme, can't say for sure but I think it will. You can probably get something else from GH that would be much better. I do believe you would be much better off adding beneficial bacteria to your mix instead of killing everything in there. Just started useing Hydroguard and Hygrozyme together and roots are looking better than ever.


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## Knally (May 10, 2009)

During my research of Hygrozyme I have learned that is recommended as a cleaning solution also. In that regard it is not selective in which types of bacteria, micro nutrients, nutrients, etc. that it cleans or strips away from your res, your nutrient solution and your plant's roots. It strips the good and beneficial bacteria your roots need as well as pythium, etc.

The hydro store recommended using it only on stronger, more established plants, otherwise it will strip all of the nutrients out of young clones and seedlings and wreak havoc. Those were his words not mine. This isn't the same dealer who sold my the Hygrozyme to start with.

I've chalked this experience up as a learning experience. Hygrozyme will have its uses for me, but not as a water treatment for root disease prevention.


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## GypsyBush (May 10, 2009)

Now that makes sense...

That is the first sentence that actually provides a clue as to why you why there has been trouble...

Enzymes break down organic matter to feed the bacteria...

If you roots are already colonized with bads... and you super feed them.. they will take over...

I suppose if you had more goodies than bads, the result would be different...

So the way I see it... whatever you have in you res will go crazy...

If you have goodies, your roots will explode like mine and other's...

But if you are already colonized by the bads... and you feed them... well we know what can happen...

This is just a speculation... I have come to this conclusion reading what I read here...

So I could very well have my head up my ass and be totally wrong...

What do YOU think?


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## grandpabear3 (May 10, 2009)

i think you could touch your colon with your tongue, but that is beside the point. that sure does make sense. but lets not try to sell others on it around here.....they get touchy.


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## GypsyBush (May 10, 2009)

Wanna keep it a secret?...lol...


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## grandpabear3 (May 10, 2009)

no, i just recognise a hostile environment when i smell one. then again you run to them and move in so i guess........nevermind. heheheheh


----------



## GypsyBush (May 10, 2009)

Oh Damn.. you missed... I guess I should have winked and said I'm in...lol...

Gypsies like secrets...lol....


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## grandpabear3 (May 10, 2009)

GypsyBush said:


> Oh Damn.. you missed... I guess I should have winked and said I'm in...lol...
> 
> Gypsies like secrets...lol....


 it feels like we are talking about something else now......i did miss


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## GypsyBush (May 10, 2009)

When I asked if you wanted to keep it a secret, you were supposed to read SARCASM...

But I guess I am not very fluent in forum talk yet lol....


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## grandpabear3 (May 10, 2009)

oh, then i got it spot on. that was my response.


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## GypsyBush (May 10, 2009)

Fuck.. I need to learn to speak better American...

Here I am thinking it went over you head.. 

When in reality I am the one all fucked up...lol...

Boy.. did we hijack this one...?!?!

I'm gonna copy that post again, so folks can continue on...lol...

Cheers Bugs



ME! said:


> Now that makes sense...
> 
> That is the first sentence that actually provides a clue as to why you why there has been trouble...
> 
> ...


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## LoudBlunts (May 11, 2009)

oh shit, i feel special....

so all my babbling isnt in vain?

im soooo proud of GB and Bugs


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## NewGrowth (May 11, 2009)

GypsyBush said:


> Fuck.. I need to learn to speak better American...
> 
> Here I am thinking it went over you head..
> 
> ...



Hygrozyme does not harm beneficial microbes, it breaks down organic matter that microbes feed on. If you use higher concentrations of hygrozyme expect a Ph rise due to the breakdown of organic matter.


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## morrisgreenberg (May 11, 2009)

i cant believe theres this much hate towards hygrozyme, what i believe why some on this thread dont like it, is because when you have pythium on your roots, the addition of hygrozyme will basically dissolve the infected roots, thus making it look worse than when first started, for great results i recommend changing the rez daily, cus that water gets disgusting, but this is a clear sign that hygrozyme is working, its gets really bad before it gets better, 5 days of this routine and it will be like it never happened, besides you wouldnt want that nasty slime floating in your water


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## grandpabear3 (May 11, 2009)

LoudBlunts said:


> oh shit, i feel special....
> 
> so all my babbling isnt in vain?
> 
> im soooo proud of GB and Bugs


the jig is up gypsy....we've been found out!
move away slowly.......i hear his vision is based on movement


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## GypsyBush (May 11, 2009)

Shhhh... blind people can hear really well..lol..


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## GetHighLikePlanes (May 11, 2009)

Hello everyone,
There's a lot of good info here about Hygrozyme. The shit is expensive though. I'm trying to find it cheap somewhere. My reservoir gets a little warm and I drop some frozen water bottles in once in awhile, but I'm hoping this will help out with the rising temp. I didn't realize people add this throughout the entire grow and not only when they have problems. Good stuff.


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## grandpabear3 (May 11, 2009)

i use 150ml in a 20 gallon res every week. thats all it takes.


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## GetHighLikePlanes (May 11, 2009)

bugsrnme said:


> i use 150ml in a 20 gallon res every week. thats all it takes.


That actually sounds like a lot considering they sell it in 500ml, 1 liter, and gallons. At the rate you're going you would be done with a 500ml bottle in a little over 3 weeks so I assume you had the money to pick up the gallon whereas you would get about 2 grows out of that (if my math is right). I don't know, it seems like this stuff is way too expensive and really all we're paying for is the company's research and development. I guess the only way to find out is to experience it first hand.


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## morrisgreenberg (May 11, 2009)

8-10ml per gallon cheef! i consider the stuff a condom for your plants, put on your rain coat!


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## morrisgreenberg (May 11, 2009)

GetHighLikePlanes said:


> That actually sounds like a lot considering they sell it in 500ml, 1 liter, and gallons. At the rate you're going you would be done with a 500ml bottle in a little over 3 weeks so I assume you had the money to pick up the gallon whereas you would get about 2 grows out of that (if my math is right). I don't know, it seems like this stuff is way too expensive and really all we're paying for is the company's research and development. I guess the only way to find out is to experience it first hand.


 you'll find out how good this stuff is when your plants are on the brink of death and it saves them, i dont think you can find it for less than $40 a quart and 130 a gallon, by the way, a quart is like 932ml


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## GypsyBush (May 11, 2009)

Shit.. I got 200 gallons in 5 res...

i just "dump some in"... sorta of 2/3 for the 2 big res... and the rest split in the other 3...

I think I figured it all out once.. but I am not sure...

"Dumping some in" has worked GREAT for me...

Fucking Gypsies...lol...


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## GetHighLikePlanes (May 13, 2009)

Can I use hygrozyme with Fox Farm Nutrients (Big Bloom, Tiger Bloom, and Hydroponic Grow Big)? I'm not sure if they are organic or not. Thanks!


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## GypsyBush (May 13, 2009)

GetHighLikePlanes said:


> Can I use hygrozyme with Fox Farm Nutrients (Big Bloom, Tiger Bloom, and Hydroponic Grow Big)? I'm not sure if they are organic or not. Thanks!


I do!

Tell me if you think it works...lol...


Gypsy's Picture Depot


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## GetHighLikePlanes (May 13, 2009)

Yeah, looks good to me, but let me get a shot of your root system. I don't think you're using the same Fox Farm lineup as me (Big Bloom, Tiger Bloom, and Hydroponic Grow Big). I'm pretty sure these are organic and although the bottle doesn't say not to use it with organic nutes others advised not to. I just added some into my system (3 tbsp for 6 gallons = 44.4 mL = 7.4 mL per gallon).


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## GypsyBush (May 13, 2009)

GetHighLikePlanes said:


> Yeah, looks good to me,


Thanks!



GetHighLikePlanes said:


> but let me get a shot of your root system.


I could show you dead roots, but my live ones are in the pots...

But believe me, sick plants do not have trich formation like that...lol...



GetHighLikePlanes said:


> I don't think you're using the same Fox Farm lineup as me (Big Bloom, Tiger Bloom, and Hydroponic Grow Big).


You don"t think...???

Well,what can I say... 

I just got done telling you I do...

But ok... you CAN not believe me of you want... 

I even make light use of the Fox Farm Solubles... Open Sesame, Beastie Bloomz and Cha Ching...



GetHighLikePlanes said:


> I'm pretty sure these are organic


They sure are...



GetHighLikePlanes said:


> and although the bottle doesn't say not to use it with organic nutes others advised not to.


Uh...

Enzymes feed the bacteria in the organic nutes...

The beneficial bacteria are the reason why you use hygrozyme... you are feeding them...

You must be thinking it works like H2O2... but it works very differently...

The idea is to feed the beneficial bacteria, so they colonize the roots and leave no vacant space for the bad guys to move in...



GetHighLikePlanes said:


> I just added some into my system (3 tbsp for 6 gallons = 44.4 mL = 7.4 mL per gallon).


Should make you and your plants happy...


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## GetHighLikePlanes (May 13, 2009)

Haha, don't get all defensive, buddy, I believe you. I just saw that on another thread you said you used it with Fox Farm's Tiger Bloom and the 3 solubles and I didn't think you used the Grow Big and Big Bloom because you didn't mention them. Now I know you fucking Alaskan Gypsy. Just kidding. Anyways, thanks for the information.


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## GypsyBush (May 13, 2009)

GetHighLikePlanes said:


> Haha, don't get all defensive, buddy,


lol..

I'm not... believe me...lol..

My pain sometimes makes me get very short and direct... seems rude online, but I assure I mean nothing but to help...



GetHighLikePlanes said:


> I believe you.


You don't have to, but I am glad you do...lol...



GetHighLikePlanes said:


> I just saw that on another thread you said you used it with Fox Farm's Tiger Bloom and the 3 solubles


Gypsies have a tendency to never reveal 100% of anything...

A bit of mystery and confusion goes a long way to perpetuate our mystique...lol... 



GetHighLikePlanes said:


> and I didn't think you used the Grow Big and Big Bloom because you didn't mention them.


For the good of mankind, there are lots of things I do that I never mention...lol.... 



GetHighLikePlanes said:


> Now I know you fucking Alaskan Gypsy. Just kidding.


Do you...?



Oh! Oh! I better run...lol...



GetHighLikePlanes said:


> Anyways, thanks for the information.


You are welcome dude...

Sorry if I came off rude... didn't mean to...

Cheers and good growing...


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## YaK (May 13, 2009)

Is root rott ever an issue in alaska? 

Hygrozyme seems ridiculously expensive to me, I've tried it once as directed to rescue some plants. said plants are dead, and I'm not sold on hygrozyme either. Much more puzzeling to me is how many people use it. too expensive, and not necessary. Way too many other cost effective options.

since I've switched to H2O2... no more slime , at all. 

different strokes for differnt folks, but I'd rather spend my hard earned money on many other things. The money you save ditching hygrozyme, you could get a sweet ph doser.


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## GypsyBush (May 13, 2009)

Well, if you consider that the controlled 75F, 50% rh, clear skies 365 days a year do not represent Alaska in the least bit...lol....

I would say that Alaskan ops are just as suceptible to disease and other problems...

Once you allow a problem to become, it does not matter where you are...

Now... I run large res, my solution stays cool, and I had never used anything, and U had never had a problem...

But I run a perpetual harvest SOG as you may know, and I re-use my Hydroton...

Since adding Hygrozyme to my routine, I have:

Noticed a HUGE difference in rooting, when used very light (I don;t measure shit, I just put a little bit in a bowl of water) in my RW cloning cubes...

Re-used hydroton with minimal washing, and ZERO ROOT ISSUES...

Massive White Noodles escaping every pot, so white they look like they glow... with million of fyzzy hairs all over the visible roots... at harvest, my pots seem like someone just encased the hydroton in organic matter.. fresh, clean smelling roots...

I am not saying that everyone should use it...

Heck.. I am not even saying that I should use it..

But I do, and I am glad for it...

H2O2 is HAZMAT, it is ABSURDLY expenive for me to get it here.. along with radioactive materials, explosives, compressed gases...etc...

I love Al... believe me... I owe what I know and have to him...

But I have learned that the world of organics is not the complex war management that I thought it would be...

I use organics, not because I prefer the taste or potency or any of that talk...

I do it because I have become aware that if you leave the roots uncolonized, the first moment conditions allow, the bad guys will move in...

At such a time, hygrozyme is the last thing you want...

Hygrozyme will super feed the bacteria... and if you have the bad guys in you roots... Your plants will probably die...

So if you make sure that you have the good guys (H2O2 in high doses will kill them too) occupying all the real estate, and you pour in enzymes that work on converting the organic matter into bacteria food, you will ensure that if the bad guys ever show up, they will have an army of good guys to beat before moving in at all...

It's just my opinion Yak...

I don;t know shit...

You were here and kicking ass long before I ever had a harvest...

But I do believe what I said is ALSO a good way to do it... not saying at all that your isn;t a good way at all...

This is just been MY experience so far... and if I am wrong, I would love to know about it, cause I HATE to be wrong...lol....

Cheers mate...


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## jointchief (May 13, 2009)

Use beneficial bacteria, you will never have a problem with root rot, or slime/sludge. Hygrozyme is a ripoff imho.


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## YaK (May 13, 2009)

GypsyBush said:


> Well, if you consider that the controlled 75F, 50% rh, clear skies 365 days a year do not represent Alaska in the least bit...lol....
> 
> I would say that Alaskan ops are just as suceptible to disease and other problems...
> 
> ...


I'm not proficient at the multi-quote thing (ie: I dont know how)

but let me hit a couple things. 

A) I dont believe I was kicking ass before you started... I've had way more than my fair share of ups and downs. and it really feels good to finally come into a nice simple system that works. I aboslutely love the simplicity of my flood/drain chem/h2o2 system.

B) you found a routine that obviously works REALLY well for you, which is what we all want. I dont suggest you alter it once you're comfortable with it, but I hate overpaying for things that I'm not sure wether I'd be just as kosher without.

higher temps GREATLY affect your chance of having issues. and there is no doubt about this whatsoever.

it basically comes down to that, necessity vs. peace of mind.

my plants and roots are a - ok, and I dont pay 33 dollars a quart, I think my biggest issue with hygrozyme is that it's too expensive, plus, with my nice simple system, I really dont need it. Which makes me happy.

On that note Gypsy... you're not just doing something right, you're doing everything right, because you're getting good results, and that is all that matters.

oh yeah... get CO2 , you're doing that wrong. (heh)

oh yeah, I am also happy that I dont have to put premium grade gasoline into my pickup.

Guess I'm just cheap!

I love growing.


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## morrisgreenberg (May 13, 2009)

GYPSY ...your such a bud porn hooker lmao he goes " im not sure if this stuff works here have a look" then you see 409758 pix of some really hardcore dank ass shit.....i hardly know you and i love you! but may i correct you about the hzyme since you know im they biggest fan, as i have always believed and sure i read it somewhere, beneficials produce the enzymes that stave off the bad infectious bacterias, not feeding bacteria good or bad, for feeding the bacterias we use additives that contain cane sugar or use molasses such as flora nectar and i think sweet. if this were the case my once disgusting root rotted plants wouldnt have made it back from certain death "here have a look-bam 1,200 pix" you really are the pic depot, honestly i love it keep it comming


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## morrisgreenberg (May 13, 2009)

another tidbit, those bastards at hygrozyme dont tell you anything about the product, or what it does, nothing just "secret agent" chemistry without the chemicals, i like the stuff so much i dont use soy sauce anymore, straight hygrozyme with my fried dumpligs!


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## Knally (May 14, 2009)

morrisgreenberg said:


> another tidbit, those bastards at hygrozyme dont tell you anything about the product, or what it does, nothing just "secret agent" chemistry without the chemicals, i like the stuff so much i dont use soy sauce anymore, straight hygrozyme with my fried dumpligs!


Nice pics GypsyBush.

I'm happy for those who use Hygrozyme and have positive results and condolences for those like myself who have had bad results with it.

Before and after Hygrozyme I had and have white, thick roots. With Hygrozyme - brown, slimy roots.

Did you know that Hygrozyme's parent company primarily produces industrial cleaning solutions and that Hygrozyme was developed from those products. Since it is touted as a cleaner, then no doubt it will strip some beneficial supplements from your system.

I use it to clean my hydroton and growing equipment, but have switched to AquaShield and Sub Culture B for reservoir water treatment. Why should I ask for problems? Do what works for you.


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## GetHighLikePlanes (May 14, 2009)

I added Hygrozyme yesterday to my two week old plants and what do you know the roots turned brown. The roots were originally nice and white. Is that only temporary?

*UPDATE: *The roots aren't actually brown. I sprayed them with distilled water and that removed the brown color so it must have been some sort of buildup caused by the Hygrozyme. All looks good in the hood now.


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## morrisgreenberg (May 14, 2009)

hey knally, this thread has been beaten to death eh


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## Knally (May 14, 2009)

morrisgreenberg said:


> hey knally, this thread has been beaten to death eh


yeah mon, sure been beat


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## morrisgreenberg (May 14, 2009)

the best alternative i have found is benfeficials like myccorhizal, i believ GH's sub sulture contains it, for soil you can use espoma's bio-tone starter plus-5lb bag for $7, much cheaper than mighty mycco that my local shop sells for $30 for a small sandwich bag half full...i have to say anything with mycco is the shiznit, thats why i approve of fox famrs soils!


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## GypsyBush (May 22, 2009)

Thought I'd drop an invite for you guys...

https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/167596-gypsys-picture-depot-27.html

Cheers...


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## hotboxhatchback (Jul 19, 2009)

hope i'm not just kicking a dead horse for lack of options...

i've got 6 girls in 5 gal dwc buckets, 2nd week of flowering and they're all about 2' tall bushy as hell.

this is my first grow so i've been fighting ignorance the whole way, fucking up left and right.

i had pH issues that killed 11 clones and from what's survived i've battled lingering root rot issues the whole grow.

i started out using gh floranova grow/flora blend/floralicious plus with nothing else (had i known better at the time i'd have used beneficial microbes from day one and will do so in the future!). for bloom i'm using an sensi a+b bloom, florablend, big bud, and hygrozyme.

i got some hygrozyme after all my pH issues opened the door for root rot.

i 've been using hz 1/2 strength till last week, went full strength and ended up battling pH again and now my girls are toasted from that shit.

i have access to some voodoo, piranha, and tarantula but i don't think you're supposed to use them in flowering.

i also have no ro unit and i buy that shit locally so the less i have to flush, the better.

anyone care to help me out by recommending a course of action? i'm worried about my crop and i've got a lot of time/$ into this already...stressing like there's no tomorrow...even having strife with my lady over this shit.

thanks


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## GypsyBush (Jul 19, 2009)

I'm no expert Bro...

But I have used HZ and I have also dealt with root rot...

HZ will not cure your rot problem...

Are your current nutes organic? Sorry I am not familiar with those brands...

...

My recommendation would be to use NON- Organic baseed nutes and treat with H2O2... 50% @ 1ml/l 0r 35% @ 17ml/l

After you regain control of the situation, continue with your regular nute regime...

...

That is just what I would do...

I am a nweb...do not listen to my advice as he only source...

But that is what I would do... and I in fact stick with non organic nutes and frequent doses of H2O2...

Best of LUCK!!!


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## hotboxhatchback (Jul 19, 2009)

a buddy of mine told me to avoid organics, but yeah - general hydroponics florablend and floralicious plus are both organic. florablend is a compost tea i can stop using but floralicious plus is a N rich supplement i use as a foliar because i've read N deficiencies are common in flowering. i'll quit foliar feeding anyways now that i'm 2 weeks into flowering but i'm wondering for the future - can i continue using an organic foliar after putting H2O2 in my nutrient solution?

where is the best place to get 50% H2O2?

i'm considering a transplant to coco but i don't know if that'd just totally fuck them being 2 weeks along flowering and having massive roots...probably i dumb idea but dwc and i are quickly developing an unhealthy relationship.


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## GypsyBush (Jul 19, 2009)

hotboxhatchback said:


> a buddy of mine told me to avoid organics,


I am a newb bro... but I have been an avid follower of Al B. Fuct's teachings...

I am not sure if you know his work, but this is a godd place to get to know Al...

Get a harvest every 2 weeks

He puts forth that organic and hydro are an invitation to problems...

Lots of people do it... yet when I TRIED IT... I failed miserably...

I like his thought of a "sterile" res... with the cannabis plant as the "only living being" in the op... a bit of an exxageration... but a spot on analogy when comparing Org. vs non Org.



> but yeah - general hydroponics florablend and floralicious plus are both organic. florablend is a compost tea i can stop using


h2o2 will in fact exterminate and speed decomposition of ANY organic matter... beneficial bacteria and all...

*DO NOT USE h2o2 WITH ORGANIC ANYTHING... !!!! *

Can't say that enough...




> but floralicious plus is a N rich supplement i use as a foliar because i've read N deficiencies are common in flowering.


Of all the shit I have tried... I am back to my first nute and h2o2..

Never had a single deficiency... don't even know what one looks like...

Use a good fert in your res..change and clean it every 2 weeks... and that's it.. keep your pH in check .. that's all I do..



> i'll quit foliar feeding anyways now that i'm 2 weeks into flowering but i'm wondering for the future - can i continue using an organic foliar after putting H2O2 in my nutrient solution?


An appropriate dose of h2o2 will dissipate as water (h2o) and the extra oxygen (O) gets either absorbed in the water or spent in oxydizing whatever it just corroded to death... 3 or 4 days tops and it is no longer there...



> where is the best place to get 50% H2O2?


industrial chemical suppliers...

It's hazmat... you will have to sign for it... but it is not illegal...

Just corrosive.. really corrosive...

like burn your skin off corrosive....

But just be careful...

Totally worth it in my opinion...

I believe an ounce of prevention is worth ... well... a whole crop!!!



> i'm considering a transplant to coco but i don't know if that'd just totally fuck them being 2 weeks along flowering and having massive roots...probably i dumb idea but dwc and i are quickly developing an unhealthy relationship.


DWC is awesome...

but you need BIG reservoirs...

ANY hydro reservoir's stability is directly related to volume...

I could get away with a 40 gallo res, for my trays... but I use a 100 gallon res...

SUre .. it's a bit of a waste...

But my ph and ppm are stable for well over a week...

If I wanted to push my luck, I could pH at 5.5 and be gone for 2 weeks... no top offs... pH and ppm would shift, but well within range..

Small reses, fux in temp ph and PPM way too fast for it to be fun...

You could add a res and a pump and make it a re-circulating bucket system... but all those hoses look like a leak nightmare to me...

I used to do DWC...

I switched to ebb flow and have never looked back...









here is my latest project in ebb flow...

Oh and click on my sig to see my Al B. Fuct Style ebb/flow SOG...

Cheers...


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## fishenfool06 (Jul 19, 2009)

hotboxhatchback said:


> hope i'm not just kicking a dead horse for lack of options...
> 
> i've got 6 girls in 5 gal dwc buckets, 2nd week of flowering and they're all about 2' tall bushy as hell.
> 
> ...


 
hay hot box i feel your pain, i also have a dwc system and im battling with the rot. i had it under control last cycle with hz , but im having problems this time . the only thing that is different is i had moor air stones in my tub. i just cleaned out most of the muck that cotes the roots, if u look at your roots you may see the ends of the large roots that hang in the water are full of muck. it best if u can remove that slime without stressing your plants, on the real big ones that were rotted i just cut them. the plants will send out new feeders instead of trying to repair the bad ones.

the anser to your question is clean out your tub, flush your system and add more air stones and air pumps.
good luck.


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## GypsyBush (Jul 20, 2009)

I thought this may help...



Al B. Fuct said:


> Al B. Fuct
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## hotboxhatchback (Jul 20, 2009)

thanks for the advice gypsybush and fishenfool. i decided to transplant them to soil, finished up a few hours ago. there's a lot of leaves that are burnt from pH spikes but the roots actually looked better as i rinsed them and transplanted.

i had been so preoccupied that i didn't notice a couple plants got too close to their t5ho bulbs and the tops of those two got toasted a bit. i raised all my lights after finding that.

i'll give them some time to show me how they're going to handle this but at least this has been a learning experience. in fact, my brain is saturated with all things hydroponics right now...need to toke and rest...


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## hotboxhatchback (Jul 20, 2009)

GypsyBush said:


> I thought this may help...


yeah, i saw that looking through some of al's stuff last night. its a sound reason for avoiding organics from the start but i was too ignorant to do that. also, in ca i can't get more than 7% H2O2 and that drug store stuff has nasty chemicals in it that i'd prefer not to even think i'm consuming.

i only grow my legal limit for personal use, though i started out with many more than that cuz it really is difficult for me to get transportation to buy clones and i though they'd all have died by now! point is, i'm not so much interested in perfect, consistent rotating crops like al is talking about. i'm interested in meeting my needs without the side effects of the pharmacuticals i'm trying to avoid. i prefer organicly grown food and my family garden is strictly organic as we make compost from yard/kitchen waste and the neighbor's chickens' shit. if i can grow totally organic ganja i'd like to so i'm reading up on subcool's organic soil grows and considering scaling back the hydro to maybe one plant at a time till i refine a totally organic regimen and find a grow style that works for me.


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## morrisgreenberg (Jul 20, 2009)

the problem with using h202, and i have had root rot a few times, is that its a never ending battle, i use it as a temporary fix to check it...until the application of hygrozyme, hygrozyme is not specifically made to cure root rot, but....this is a big but, if properly used it will cure your root rot. if you check back a few pages in this thread i listed the exact method that i use and you will have success 100%


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## Knally (Jul 20, 2009)

Hygrozyme doesn't cure root rot, but I have found that whatever I start with I stay with. If I start with Hygrozyme I stay with it or Aquashield if I use it instead. No more switching for me. GH Subculture B is also good for root strengthening in the early stages. But the point is you have to keep your system clean and consistent with water treatment, Ph, etc. to prevent root rot etc.

Good luck.

Go Green...Grow Green.


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## Knally (Jul 20, 2009)

Hey morrisgreenburg.

I thought we decided that this was beat to death already?


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## fishenfool06 (Jul 20, 2009)

Knally said:


> Hey morrisgreenburg.
> 
> I thought we decided that this was beat to death already?


that was your words!


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## HydroGirl (Mar 10, 2010)

I just started using foxfarm in hydro 
I emailed foxfarm about hygrozyme and this is what they said...

Thank you for your inquiry. We at FoxFarm don't offer an
enzymatic formula as we rely on the microbes in the root zone to produce
the enzymes necessary to keep things "clean" down there. It wouldn't
hurt to use a product like Hygrozyme or Sensizyme to make sure things
stay well-kept. For reference, enzymes don't clean a tank like you might
think they do. What enzymes do is "eat" up dead organic matter i.e. old
roots, dead microbes, rotting plant matter, etc. So, if you do choose to
use an enzyme supplement you only need to use it sparingly, like every
other tank change or something like that. I hope I helped in clarifying
the matter and remember to always have FUN in the Garden!


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## Knally (Mar 11, 2010)

FoxFarm doesn't offer one but several other companies do (General hydroponics, Botanicare, etc.) I have used several of them without any negative impact to the overall health of my plants except Hygrozyme. Each to their own, I'll continue to use the other products, but not Hygrozyme personally.


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## meowmix (Mar 12, 2010)

Ive used hygrozyme with no issue in a soil grow. I read in stinkbud's post that when using hygrozyme in hydro its going to turn your roots brown, but that isnt necessarily anything bad (pretty sure i read this there).

Surprised to hear this result from you. Im sure you had the proper ph and were doing everything else as usual. Strange - I wonder if you got a bad batch.

Reconsidering finishing off my left over bottle in my new aero setup...


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## CosmicC (Oct 9, 2010)

lol, an interesting thread to read.

I run my own version of a DWC. I fight high res temps 73-76 degrees, and for DWC I&#8217;m probably way under enough air, so not the best environment. I use Hygrozyme now. I have had both success and failure with it. Since i have been on both sides of the boat, let me share my findings..

This is my old way #1:
Before I ever bought hygrozyme, I ran a complete sterile res. No bacteria, regular use of 29% peroxide. I would get pyth up high once in awhile, probably because of my low air and high temps, but the peroxide would keep it held at bay. Roots would be "white enough" and yields and completion were fine. Basically keep everything dead in your res (sterile).

Then I bought some hygrozyme. I cut out my peroxide and replaced it with hygrozyme. Bam, HUGE problems. 3 ladies almost brought to death. very slimy roots, not dark like my pyth before, just very slimy and weak (and not sucking up any water). was able to barely save them by cutting out hygrozyme (sound familiar). 

Hygrozyme is used to create a perfect environment for the roots to attract and colonize bacteria. This is what i was told, and it makes perfect sense to me in my situation. Since i didn&#8217;t use any good bacteria, the littlest bad bacteria was multiplied and made perfect to live on my roots. I didn&#8217;t use peroxide anymore so the bad bacteria wasn&#8217;t killed.

this is my new way #2:
I bought some "great white" beneficial bacteria. I use that with hygrozyme and no peroxide. Now, beneficial bacteria multiply and live in my roots. So instead of killing everything, i promote good bacteria and let them thrive. This has turned out to be quite amazing. Silly white roots, even in my semi-harsh environment. And as long as i keep the good bacteria up, bad bacteria cant thrive. You can even use a touch of peroxide to supplement to kill of any little bad bacteria left, but not enough to affect your good bacteria colony. (like they mention on the hygrozyme bottle)

Hygrozyme eats dead roots thru enzymes, but it also creates a perfect environment on your roots for bacteria (good or bad). So if you use hygrozyme, you better make sure you have good bacteria colonies or you will be screwed. I have noticed this applies to clones in a areo cloner as well. either go good bacteria w/ hygrozyme or go peroxide only in the areo, this changed my areo success percentage from like 50% to 95%.

So lets recap: 
Hygrozyme: Promotes bacteria colonies on roots (good or bad), and eats dead matter thru enzymes.(DOES NOT kill bad bacteria).
Peroxide: eats dead matter like hygrozyme but thru oxidation, and kills all bacteria (good or bad). Adds oxygen to water.

Its all about using it correctly, not just adding it to your res and saying "this shit sucks, it killed my plants". well yea dude, know what your actually doing when you add it. I learned the hard way, but I also learned how to actually use it correctly.

Hygrozyme can make or break you, and if you dont know the full story and apply it correctly, it will break you.


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## gudkarma (Oct 10, 2010)

CosmicC said:


> this is my new way #2:I bought some "great white" beneficial bacteria. I use that with hygrozyme and no peroxide. Now, beneficial bacteria multiply and live in my roots. So instead of killing everything, i promote good bacteria and let them thrive. This has turned out to be quite amazing. Silly white roots, even in my semi-harsh environment. And as long as i keep the good bacteria up, bad bacteria cant thrive. You can even use a touch of peroxide to supplement to kill of any little bad bacteria left, but not enough to affect your good bacteria colony. (like they mention on the hygrozyme bottle)


this is exactly how hygrozyme is used.

when you drop an enzyme product in your rez without established bene bacteria, you are creating a recipe for dissaster.

been there, done that.

before i followed the above advice, like others i had mixed success with hygrozyme.

when you learn hygrozyme isn't like h202, isn't a cure all, & isn't going to solve any root rot problems, you've reached the top of the bell curve.

i've lost several of my ladies due to the incorrect application of hygrozyme. & people that dont like it, or have had little success with it, don't know how to use it.

as stated in multiple parts of this thread, enzyme products are food for both good & bad bacteria.

when using hygrozyme, you need to start with a fresh rez & innoculate your root zone with beneficials.

hygrozyme will keep the benies feed... which keeps the nasties at bay.


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## gratefulmeds (Oct 29, 2010)

I concur, I never had problems, started adding hygrozyme and now I get a frothy/soapy type film for a few days, and possibly some brown decomposing material that is similar to algae, and could be some kind of algae or bacteria. But after a few days of this things clear up and everything is good. I kept salt water aquariums for years and know that when bacteria and enzymes are cycling in a oxygenated system of water there is a period of "funk" before the water gets to a balance. At first there is lots of nitrate and material that is being broken down and lots of good bacteria that is growing and eating this stuff in order to find a balance. I think the initial "funk" period that hygrozyme will cause is normal for the water to cycle. But hey, I've only been using it for a few weeks and am hoping my theory is correct. It seems this is what happened in the first system I used it in, things started off with some funky stuff and now it's all healthy, I currently have a system that is experiencing this same cycle and will see what happens in the next few days, it will either confirm or rebuke my claims here. I'll update with what happens....good thread


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## datpiff (Oct 30, 2010)

I LOVE HYGROZYME.... I use it in the first weeks of flower only... after that i flush before every weekly water change with some peroxyde and water ph'd at 5.8. Hygrozyme if used properly is a great all around product. I used it when my clones were new and rotting and it helped get them strong again. hygrozyme vitamax are excellent products for the health of your plants b-52 will also keep your plants green and healthy looking but i prefer hygrozyme over sensizyme.


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## cybotron500 (May 21, 2011)

BUMP BUMP BUMP. anyone else with root issues should look for fatman's posts as well...


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## yum114 (May 21, 2011)

Knally said:


> Just like I started the thread out.... ran out of Hydroguard, a product that I have used for a long time. I needed a replacement for reservoir treatment and the hydro store owner told me Hygrozyme was good stuff and that Hydroguard is no longer made.
> 
> Had beautiful white roots and green foliage on my girls before I changed out the reservoirs and treated them with Hygrozyme. Then slimy, smelly roots with nutrient lockout happened and lost 8 girls total now.
> 
> I'll get something else as a treatment... but not Hygrozyme.


Do you believe that there was any possible way that the left over hydroguard might of interacted with the Hygrozyme?


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## F. Dupp (May 22, 2011)

Hygrozyme causes brown algae in some systems, like DWC or aeroponics. It gave it to me in my aero system. I used Hygrozyme over the summer when water temps caused me to get root rot. I never saw any benefit from using it, as it gave me the brown algae instantly. The $40 bottle of Hygroslyme did about $10,000 worth of damage. I wouldnt give this product to my worst enemy.

Brown algae is a bitch to get rid of, you have to use Physan 20, bleach doesnt work.


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## Badbackguy (May 24, 2011)

Ive used hygrozyme for a long time, and yes, sometimes at the end of the flower cycle the dwc res looks a lil bit sudsy, so what? I change my res in accordance to my nutes schedule (roughly every 2 weeks or so), no big deal. I am mindful ofres temps and levels.. As far as I understand, algae is caused by light (among other things), so I keep it dark at the root level, and I have no algae.. I recommend hygrzyme all the time. It works for me, and my end result has been nothing short of awesome.. It helps keep your roots healthy while preventing disease. Rolling into the heat of summer when res temps can be a challenge, to me, its a no brainer..



Just my .02 



Good luck with whatever you decide J


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## Cali.Grown>408 (May 24, 2011)

most of these people must not read the directions on the bottle lol...my plants love it and i've heard nothing but good things from other people who use it


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## F. Dupp (May 26, 2011)

Glad to hear it works for some people. I was starting to think the shit was made by the DEA. In some systems its the sole cause of brown algae, which, by the way doesnt need light. For more information head over to the forum that also puts out a magazine. If you have used Hygrozyme and have brownish gray jellyfish looking shit floating in your res and killing your plants, get some Physan 20 and clean and flush everything with it between runs. Its the only way to kill it.


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## billy4479 (May 26, 2011)

When i was working at the grow store id spend all day calling the numbers on the back of the bottles and asking about there product..Really good way to learn more and somthing to do when its slow anyways i called Hygrozyme and the lady told me that it was just amino acids ..the building blocks of life .......it s used by commircal food growers world wide ........


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## NewGrowth (May 30, 2011)

I use enzymes to break down roots in left over coco to be re-used. Hygrozyme works well when used properly (low doses) there are plenty of good enzyme products on the market. Hygrozyme is actually a re-marketed floor cleaner. Pretty simple stuff, I think people over think it, root rot has only happened to previously compromised (ie neglected) plants in my experience. Healthy plants and in production horticulture, a good systemic fungacide is your friend.


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## Heisenberg (May 30, 2011)

F. Dupp said:


> If you have used Hygrozyme and have brownish gray jellyfish looking shit floating in your res and killing your plants, get some Physan 20 and clean and flush everything with it between runs. *Its the only way to kill it.*


I disagree. Brown slime algae, and most root disease, is easily purged by adding a microbe tea.


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## chickengutz (May 31, 2011)

They don't call it "I grow slime" for nuthin.


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## NewGrowth (May 31, 2011)

Beneficial microbes have their place but physan is the BEST greenhouse disinfectant product (and bleach ). This guy was talking about using it to clean, not add to your reservoir.


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## Heisenberg (May 31, 2011)

NewGrowth said:


> Beneficial microbes have their place but physan is the BEST greenhouse disinfectant product (and bleach ). This guy was talking about using it to clean, not add to your reservoir.


I do indeed consider physan 20 to be one of the best products for sterilizing walls, trays, and other equipment. I also find Dutch Master Zone to be a good wall wash. Since switching to bennies, that's the only time I end up reaching for those bottles.

I've also found that physan is excellent for sterilizing res water; I simply disagree with the statement that is the only way to purge slime, but I apparently misunderstood the context.


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## Thebroketoker (Jul 5, 2020)

Knally said:


> I'm still researching. Notice that Hygrozyme is not listed as a substitute.
> 
> 
> Hydroguard Bio Fungicide​
> ...


Bro thats because hygrozyme and hydroguard are completely differnet products-not even the same intended use


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## F_Dupp (Jul 7, 2020)

I didnt have time to read the whole thread, but Hygrozyme didnt give you pythium. It gave you brown algae. Its almost impossible to get rid of. I would start over, if at all possible.


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