# Vacuum Purge times and temp for different wax consistency



## chef oli (Nov 12, 2013)

Hey guys. What times and temps do you use when vac purging? Any info helps. Thanks. Looking for times and temps on honeycomb and shatter.


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## Commander Strax (Nov 12, 2013)

You could ask VACPURGE....oh wait, never mind


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## chef oli (Nov 12, 2013)

Commander Strax said:


> You could ask VACPURGE....oh wait, never mind


what are you talking about


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## BluJayz (Nov 12, 2013)

Usually takes 10-24 hours of purging on and off...

For me shatter is just another vac and a cable box dry away from wax. (Others should chime in with better methods)

Try to stay between 100F-120F and as I reeceently learned don't go further than 29.5hg


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## Twitch (Nov 12, 2013)

Commander Strax said:


> You could ask VACPURGE....oh wait, never mind


lmfao......


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## Twitch (Nov 12, 2013)

chef oli said:


> what are you talking about


A Legend......


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## BCOGYODA (Nov 12, 2013)

^^^What Blu said^^^

Shatter is around 90-100F before oil starts to wax but is fully purged.

Don't go by temps on your griddle only pay attention to the oil temp itself. I've had strains wax up from between 105F-120F 

Once you're oil gets up to 130F or higher you run the risk of turning the oil into perma goo. Better to very slowly and carefully raise the oil temp till it waxes.

If you purge from the start with large muffins at full strength vacuum you can get the oil to purge and wax faster than if you slowly raise your vacuum strength along the way as it purges out the solvent/moisture. Some BHO makers don't like doing full muffins and do the slower gradual method that's why I'm mentioning it.


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## chef oli (Nov 17, 2013)

thanks for the help guys. lets say im going to want a waxy consistency over a shatter. what is the step by step process after take it from the pyrex off the griddle into the vac chamber? sorry im new to vac purging, trying to get up to game on wax. so for example if i scrape onto parchment paper, do i want to put the vac chamber on the griddle and purge from there? any advice or tips is appreciated.


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## BCOGYODA (Nov 17, 2013)

chef oli said:


> thanks for the help guys. lets say im going to want a waxy consistency over a shatter. what is the step by step process after take it from the pyrex off the griddle into the vac chamber? sorry im new to vac purging, trying to get up to game on wax. so for example if i scrape onto parchment paper, do i want to put the vac chamber on the griddle and purge from there? any advice or tips is appreciated.


This is the thread you want to check out for that info:
https://www.rollitup.org/concentrates-extracts/624465-bho-vacuum-oil-wax-tutorial.html

A lot of good reading and info throughout the whole thread.


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## SnapsProvolone (Nov 17, 2013)

I was taught:

110 f= shatter
120 - 130 f = butter /wax / honeycomb
140 f and up = oil


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## BCOGYODA (Nov 17, 2013)

SnapsProvolone said:


> I was taught:
> 
> 110 f= shatter
> 120 - 130 f = butter /wax / honeycomb
> 140 f and up = oil


Not really. You gotta be REAL careful at those temps cause different strains respond differently.
I've waxed up a lot of runs now at only 107-110
And I've had perma goo form at only 128-130F
And not sure exactly what you mean by "oil" at 140 and up but at those temps I've got taffy cause I don't winterize so It's my understanding if you still have plant waxes/lipids in your "oil" it will never be liquid low viscosity oil without winterizing it to get the impurities completely out.

By reading through the thread I posted the link to you will see how these factors play out in different situations and with different strains.


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## SaybianTv (Nov 17, 2013)

BC tell me about it, i decided to just let loose and go hog wild and lower my temps from 105 to 98.6 on another batch of OG. I woke up this morning to glass glass glass where normaly i get sticky shatter n then usually proceed to fuck with it thinking it must be too moist. 

I think at least in my book I have my answer, my vac pump is way too strong and lowering vac is = to raising temps that's why no temp is universally correct. In my case Im way off you guys, now i think to all those times i read things like take it up to 120 for wax and i tried and got Goo it's from my pressure turning 48c into 52c+. 

Ugh now i wanna go back in time and rerun my bubba


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## biglungs (Nov 17, 2013)

for me it depends on different strains i had some gdp turn to honeycomb sitting outside on the warm concrete also have some kush that make rock hard shatter while i leave my dessicator in boiling hot water


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## BCOGYODA (Nov 17, 2013)

SaybianTv said:


> BC tell me about it, i decided to just let loose and go hog wild and lower my temps from 105 to 98.6 on another batch of OG. I woke up this morning to glass glass glass where normaly i get sticky shatter n then usually proceed to fuck with it thinking it must be too moist.
> 
> I think at least in my book I have my answer, my vac pump is way too strong and lowering vac is = to raising temps that's why no temp is universally correct. In my case Im way off you guys, now i think to all those times i read things like take it up to 120 for wax and i tried and got Goo it's from my pressure turning 48c into 52c+.
> 
> Ugh now i wanna go back in time and rerun my bubba


Ya man it's very strain dependent regarding wax times and even the ability of the oil to wax rather than budder, or shatter etc..The ratio of sativa vs indica I think has a very big play in it. The more indica dominant the more easily it'll wax I think.

And It's a tough call when getting strains from different sources too because it's hard to know exactly what these strains truly are unless we are the ones purchasing the seeds and growing them ourselves. 

I'm growing OG from an original sourced cut off ChemDawg from Cali and I gotta say we've isolated more Sativa out of it over the years from hermi femanized seeds coming off of selected forced hermi females we felt showed much more sativa dominance. With that I am by far no breeding expert so who knows but I say that because with my OG I find it takes a much longer purge and higher temp than a lot of the other Kush's I've been running lately and a much more orange/amber oil. The more Indica dominant Kush's have been very easy to wax up.

I'm thinking if you are getting goo at a lower temp then you may be dealing with more Indica dominance and it shouldn't matter the strength of your vac pump because I purge at full vac with a powerful pump but I just pay close attention to the temps. 
With a new strain you're playing with just say to yourself you will first try to get it to wax at 100F for say 12 hrs. If it doesn't raise the temp by the tiniest amount then run it for an hour more to see if it starts to was, if not raise again for another hour and so on and so on. If you go straight to 120 too quickly you might just go straight to goo. I've done it a couple times now.

If you want to be careful and not play with muffins from the start just put your air purged oil in the chamber and use a very mild vac purge pressure of around 10 hg or so for a few hours at like 90F...watch it careful though; it may purge over a dish if it's deep oil you are messin with. Just back off the pressure a bit..When that purges for awhile you can raise the hg to say 15hg and purge more. Then when you see the bubbles getting really small and slowing down raise your vac hg up to max and raise the temp very slowly to you notice a fogging up of the oil. That's when it will start to solidify. No need to turn the temp up any more from that point but that's when it's very important to point your temp gun at the oil surface to see where that "magic" temp is for that strain of oil you are running to wax up.
And I check my oil surface every hour or so when I see it wants to wax to make sure it never gets warmer. If it goes up even a degree or two. I open up the chamber and let it cool down.


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## SaybianTv (Nov 17, 2013)

I can't take all this wax talk somebody dab me a good piece of wax, in my case it really is the pump going maniacle. Unfortunately my vac oven speaks the queens english and I dunno what 1020-1035 mbar's is but that's where my pump takes my gauge when running continuously. I normally purge at 110, i'll tell you the truth I never get beyond pull and snap and i blamed my climate and silly things like that. Remember I live in a wacko world were I can't auto expect everything to work like butane so I assumed if I'm doing what people are doing and Im getting this it must be me. There's a reason why FD says 115 at 29.5, 29.9 makes ripping conditions for the oil equal to more heat. So i get what I get not having a vac pump regular that can tone my shit back, 115 is way to much and explains why any shatter I get auto butter's if you look at it sideways. 

All i did was doo something you do from the start, 100f n went to bed. That's 12hr's n glass I got the way I sometimes do. Those were the times i never let the oven warm up n then just kept dicking with it so much it never got past 100f n at some point I fold that thin film glass one more time then go to bed. That's when i wake up to soft oil cuzz the oven has the chance to get up to temp without some asshole opening the door and taking dabs once an our. Not goo but sticky if your in a heated environment oil. 10f man, I know strains will do things but dam you awesome pump you make 44c feel like 55. 

BC you gotta convert me man I wanna know what it's like to love on the dry crumble, I love all consistencies from a artistic point of view i just never been too deep a lover of the dry stuff people give me. I don't like big dabbers I just got that Ti stick with the flat tip. All the wax people have that spork looking thing or the spade. 
Dude Im getting one of them Electric DabVenue's after my All my oil taste like shit meltdown last week, do you use quartz? It comes with a joel halen honey hole but honestly that could be the name of a band for all i know.


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## chef oli (Nov 19, 2013)

thanks a lot guys. great info. anyone have a successful honeycomb temperature that they consistently use?


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## BCOGYODA (Nov 19, 2013)

Did you even read what people took the time to post to you?


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## BCOGYODA (Nov 19, 2013)

Hey Saybian I only dab with a friend with his rig. I don't dab at home. I just like mellow stone from pure indica's flowers for my own at home before bed. I got a family and kids etc..and super busy with the mj world. So when I dab with my friend he has the water bong with the titanium nail and cover glass attachment for it that we use but speaking of that I was recently reading up on smoking the dabs and have been hearing that burning this stuff at the higher temps my friend is using is not a good thing for the extract or our bodies so I am looking at getting a better system for dabbing I can bring to my friends place. I'm thinking of the fritted discs or concentrate bowls/glow wands..


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## blackforest (Nov 23, 2013)

Here's a nice piece I use. Works with any 510 thread battery (most common) Much more personal and a lot less intense and 'hot'. (does not make me cough). Just one in the arsenal.....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Glass-Vape-Globe-510-Threads-With-Screen-For-Oil-Wax-/161132086787?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2584388603


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## SaybianTv (Nov 23, 2013)

BC that's crazy, your not the first guy that i've seen with fistfull's of oil that turned around and said he didn't dab alone. I've got a family too but no munchkins so in my world staying home and getting dabbed out is a family pleased. I rarely go outside socially and 99% of the time it's going to be work related so I have nobody that dabs to even share with. You can find someone here and there to take a dab but it's not there lifestyle choice. I hear you on hot temps, getting a carb cap was the only solution to finish a full flavor dab for me but it's only been a month and I've already ordered a temp temple enail for 100% steady low temps and full finishing dabs each time. A crap rig is like drinking fine whiskey out of a wax paper cup.


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## chef oli (Nov 25, 2013)

I've read everything, I just want to make sure im safe at about 120 without turning to goo.


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## skepler (Nov 26, 2013)

One thing to take into consideration is altitude. A lot of posters from Colorado may not realize it, but it takes less temperature with altitude to reach boiling points. I'm at 6600 feet, and water boils near 200°F, not 212°F. As a rule of thumb, any temperature used by people at sea level should be the equivalent of 10-12°F less at my house. Likewise, anything done at a mile high or up will take more heat at sea level due to the difference in atmospheric pressure. This is a consideration aside from bud strain differences.


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## blackforest (Nov 26, 2013)

skepler said:


> One thing to take into consideration is altitude. A lot of posters from Colorado may not realize it, but it takes less temperature with altitude to reach boiling points. I'm at 6600 feet, and water boils near 200°F, not 212°F. As a rule of thumb, any temperature used by people at sea level should be the equivalent of 10-12°F less at my house. Likewise, anything done at a mile high or up will take more heat at sea level due to the difference in atmospheric pressure. This is a consideration aside from bud strain differences.


As this is true and duly noted, our vacuum chambers are less efficient at altitude. We can only pull ~ -22hg (which will 'boil' water). When you do all the math, even though you can pull a 'boil' at altitude, it's not as effective of a vacuum at sea level. My theory is that you need a higher heat to achieve the same pressures while purging at sea level under a lower temp. ie: 110 deg at -29.9hg @ sea level = ~120 deg at -22hg @ 7000ft ? (temp range is a broad guess). Or is heat heat and over 130 deg regardless of altitude = permagoo. Where I am at 7200ft I feel 120deg is an ideal purge temp. Seems to work so far. Going to experiment w/ temps real soon and will report too. Fun stuff to think about!


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## chef oli (Dec 10, 2013)

Oh my god guys thank you so much this has helped me make my first batch! Should I post pics?


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## qwizoking (Dec 10, 2013)

"Should I post pics?"

Is that a serious question?
Yes!


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## chef oli (Dec 10, 2013)

here is a pic of what I made out of some bunk white widow trim. I'm not sure if i purged long enough or raised the temperature high enough to achieve the consistency I wanted. It doesn't spark or sizzle though and it gets me RIPPED!


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## qwizoking (Dec 10, 2013)

What were you going for? (I forgot)
Lower temps if wanting shatter
Looks good for a first run if making wax


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## chef oli (Dec 10, 2013)

Thanks for the feedback! I'm trying to get wax. I'm a little confused when checking temperatures though. Should I be checking the oil temperature inside the vac chamber and maintain that or should I check the griddle heat? I'm pretty sure I should be checking the oil but any feedback would waive away my confusion! Lol the best feeling is dabbing your own wax. This is a revolution for me guys. To anyone who gave feedback or input, THANK YOU!


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## qwizoking (Dec 10, 2013)

I prefer a temp gun with you know a lil laser and check the actual temp of the oil..and they are a lot more accurate

Yes it is indeed, happy dabbing..don't burn it all at once like I do


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## chef oli (Dec 10, 2013)

Any good tip for knowing when to pull it out of the vac? Will it be stable and not bubble?


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## qwizoking (Dec 10, 2013)

Yours looks pretty good from what I can see, I mean it does look like fresh trim......not too dark, and still a bit oily..pushing crumble though..imo if you had lowered heat bout 5 degrees and pulled vac a tad longer it would be lighter and more creamy, but I like "budder" more.....its purged back right before the shatter stage, now were talking altering consistencies


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## chef oli (Dec 10, 2013)

can anyone tell me if this means the temperature of my wax is 114? I think I messed up with the heat, it looks shattery.


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## qwizoking (Dec 10, 2013)

Yea raise the temps a bit.get the oil to 120 or just under.....there's no real set temps to work with, each trichome with different ratios of compounds behaves differently. You just have to learn to watch it and know what the changes in temps do to your consistency and alter accordingly..best to make hash with the same strains till you get the hang of it
How much vac are you pulling


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## chef oli (Dec 10, 2013)

I'm not sure on my vac pressure until I get a new gauge. I think I need a better griddle, this one I have sucks and wont get the oil above 120. Anyone use a good stable griddle? Props to qwizoking for the help


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## JointOperation (May 30, 2014)

you know i had no clue you could boil off THC at under ambient temps under a full vacuum!!!.. i had no clue this was possible until G.Wolf told me..


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## JointOperation (Jun 3, 2014)

i cant get temp readings threw my lid.. so i just found that after testing.. the water temp is 4-5 degrees hotter then the oil. i still pop the lid off and ill use my temp gun to see if im right.. but ya.. your lid might be different.


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## Ghettogrower187 (Mar 13, 2015)

I prefer thecomb/crumble


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## questionforyou (May 27, 2015)

BCOGYODA said:


> ^^^What Blu said^^^
> 
> Shatter is around 90-100F before oil starts to wax but is fully purged.
> 
> ...


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## questionforyou (May 27, 2015)

Hey i noticed you said to not pay attention to the temp on my griddle. If you dont mind what kind of griddle do you use? I cant seem to find one with a low temp setting. Or am i supposed to just use the heat gun an see what the wax is at? If so how can i control the wax temp if the griddle cooks to high. I guess that would circle back to my first question about what kind of griddle you have. Thanks any other tips or help would be greatly appreciated an put to very good use.


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## gazan114 (May 27, 2015)

chef oli said:


> Hey guys. What times and temps do you use when vac purging? Any info helps. Thanks. Looking for times and temps on honeycomb and shatter.


Shatter:
Very thin, 120+ temps, vac all the way, 
Decard:
150+ temps, wait till 70% bubbles stop 
Crumble:
Lower than 110 temps, 
blast and put into a paddy no bigger than 3mm, 
start purge at -15in 80 degrees
Wait 10 minutes
Release pressure
Purge to -20 90 degrees
Wait 10 minutes 
Release pressure
Purge to -25 100 degrees
wait 10 minutes release pressure
Make into a paddy about 10mm
Purge all the way let it stay 100 degrees for 2 hours then let it cool down to become hard

NOTE!
Every strain is different, if its a crumble strain it will crumble. This is what I used for crumble strains, when it isn't a crumble strain, its very hard to crumble but takes time. Never go over 120 if you want to crumble.


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## gazan114 (May 27, 2015)

Ghettogrower187 said:


> View attachment 3371413 I prefer thecomb/crumble


That looks wet still or am I wrong?


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## qwizoking (Jun 1, 2015)

No its good


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## questionforyou (Jun 4, 2015)

What type of griddle though?


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## DonFlaccido (Sep 14, 2015)

Well I went to Walmart and picked up their cheapest smallest griddle, set that on low with a pot of water on it, let it heat up then just threw my vac chamber in it. This way you won't need a super low temp heating application.

As for me, I'm trying to go for the shatter or pull-and-snap oil, and my 5th run I was able to finally get pull and snap. But when I went to dab it I accidentally dropped it on my cold floor and it did indeed shatter to pieces. Had to pick up what i could salvage but I'm finally pulling what I want


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## wrecksone (Apr 16, 2016)

Shatter had nothing to do with temperature. To get real shatter you need to winterize or have a dewaxing sleeve/closed loop. Fats and lipids will only be filtered out at sub zero temperatures for hours at a time. Keep your heating pad around 100. GET RID OF THAT GRIDDDLE AND BUY A HEATING PAD AT WALMART FOR 10$


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## antimatt3r (Apr 22, 2016)

chef oli said:


> thanks a lot guys. great info. anyone have a successful honeycomb temperature that they consistently use?


just dont use vac and purge it in a pyrex in the sink with just barely boiling water yea I know 212 (is that boiling?) is too hot but by the time your cold sink and cold dish soak up that heat its just right temp and you will wanna put another pot on so u can add more hot water till it gets all the way purged and budders up. you need to scrape all the bho into a small glob in the center of the pyrex if you want a nice honeycomb texture its important how you form that final glob


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## antimatt3r (Apr 22, 2016)

wrecksone said:


> Shatter had nothing to do with temperature. To get real shatter you need to winterize or have a dewaxing sleeve/closed loop. Fats and lipids will only be filtered out at sub zero temperatures for hours at a time. Keep your heating pad around 100. GET RID OF THAT GRIDDDLE AND BUY A HEATING PAD AT WALMART FOR 10$



I got crystal clear bright yellow shit with just tubez, tane and a vac chamb, no dewax no winterize nothin, was suprised


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## antimatt3r (Apr 22, 2016)

antimatt3r said:


> just dont use vac and purge it in a pyrex in the sink with just barely boiling water yea I know 212 (is that boiling?) is too hot but by the time your cold sink and cold dish soak up that heat its just right temp and you will wanna put another pot on so u can add more hot water till it gets all the way purged and budders up. you need to scrape all the bho into a small glob in the center of the pyrex if you want a nice honeycomb texture its important how you form that final glob while its still "liquidy" enough to manipulate and hasnt gotten hard or 'buddered up' that way u have a few bubbles left forming which is obvs what makes that honeycomb pattern I would highly recommend a vac chamber just dont get that cheap one off ebay go to bestvaluevacs (if you wanna make shatter)


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## antimatt3r (Apr 22, 2016)

antimatt3r said:


> I got crystal clear bright yellow shit with just tubez, tane and a vac chamb, no dewax no winterize nothin, was suprised


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## antimatt3r (Apr 22, 2016)

the key seemed to be freezing the tubes loaded up and the tane overnite, always staying below 100-110f on the OIL TEMP and didnt pull full vac right away, low and slow i think over 2 days.
too high of temps will def either budder it up or make it darker and its all most def strain dependent too.


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## antimatt3r (Apr 22, 2016)

line your pyrex ur blasting into with this slickroll ptfe sheet and it helps a LOT to glass it up too I noticed. when you scrape off a pyrex onto parchment or another dish or whatever you cause nucleation and thats what makes the thc fall out of the single phase and become opaque, so with this slick sheet ptfe you can blast into it, purge and finish on it you never have to do a transfer (usually via razor) .. freezing everything and the slick roll got me from like 1/3 glassy clear shatter 2/3 waxy glassy stuff to 100% glass


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## antimatt3r (Apr 22, 2016)

antimatt3r said:


> line your pyrex ur blasting into with this slickroll ptfe sheet and it helps a LOT to glass it up too I noticed. when you scrape off a pyrex onto parchment or another dish or whatever you cause nucleation and thats what makes the thc fall out of the single phase and become opaque, so with this slick sheet ptfe you can blast into it, purge and finish on it you never have to do a transfer (usually via razor) .. freezing everything and the slick roll got me from like 1/3 glassy clear shatter 2/3 waxy glassy stuff to 100% glass



every pile is the run of a different strain, this is before i had vac and I would just purge in the sink w hot water


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## antimatt3r (Apr 22, 2016)

antimatt3r said:


> every pile is the run of a different strain, this is before i had vac and I would just purge in the sink w hot water



this is with vac, left darker is grape ox right slab is la cheese


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## antimatt3r (Apr 22, 2016)

wrecksone said:


> Shatter had nothing to do with temperature. To get real shatter you need to winterize or have a dewaxing sleeve/closed loop. Fats and lipids will only be filtered out at sub zero temperatures for hours at a time. Keep your heating pad around 100. GET RID OF THAT GRIDDDLE AND BUY A HEATING PAD AT WALMART FOR 10$


 the griddle works fine for me you just have to remember that it sends pulses of really high heat to maintain whatever the temp knob is set at, it does not keep it at that certain temp constantly so its dangerous and not advisable to have your concentrate vessel in direct contact with the heat due to the nature of the burner basically being on or off its just timed. I have a big pot that I sit on top of the burner, bring the water to 110-125 then sit the vac chamber inside the pot so its touching the water and that gives me a surface oil temp of around 100. best value vacs actualltymakes round heating pads that do stay at desired temp but with the griddle and double boiler type setup and a cheap thermometer (well and an infrared one  ) pretty much ur first run you figure out ok the outside of the pot, that the chamber is sitting in is say 125F the inside of the chamber sufrace temp is gonna be like 120 or 115 then if its my first purge before flipping i got the layer of pyrex glass too so that takes away another 5-10 to give your shatter the correct temp of around 100 degrees F for purging overnite, and I do NOT leave my pump running but of course leave the heat on.... flip in morning and go another few hours till its not bubbling anymore, ended up with half oz each run of two pretty big tubes


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## dr.no (Apr 24, 2016)

gazan114 said:


> Shatter:
> Very thin, 120+ temps, vac all the way,
> Decard:
> 150+ temps, wait till 70% bubbles stop
> ...


Do you release the pressure before you let it cool down or after?


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## gazan114 (May 23, 2016)

dr.no said:


> Do you release the pressure before you let it cool down or after?


It depends on the Extract sometimes yes and no, letting it cool can make a big cookie, once you get the size you want let it cool imo


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## Fadedawg (May 24, 2016)

Every strain is different, but if you put a sample in a thin film (<1/16") and start raising the oven temperature without vacuum, until it fully melts, that is the temperature that the surface tension is low enough for bubbles to readily escape, and which you can most rapidly purge the solvent with minimal decarboxylation and loss of monoterpenes. Start vacuuming at that point if your goal is shatter. 

Start lower if your goal is a wax, and pump longer.

Since the material ostensibly started out as a carboxylic acid shatter, it should remain that way unless your process changes it to something else.

It also doesn't take copious experience to reliably produce shatter, but it helps if you have a good process, and equipment to support it.

I just helped install and instill life into a Pharmgold Mk IVC, as well as train the excited new owners to run it. After two runs using low grade electric trim to clean the pipes, which we discarded, we made a practice run using prime material, and elected to turn it into cotton candy before removing it from the Mk IVC for subsequent processing. 

It came out of the collection tank a pale yellow solidified foam, and a bubble is about the thinnest film you can draw a resin into for purging purposes, so we chilled it further in a freezer for about 30 min and used a spatula to turn it into a fine dry powder, which we sprinkled on parchment and were able to easily meet residual solvent standards after only 4 hours, leaving the extremely aromatic end product in pull and snap consistency, with THC in the high 80%. A surprise couch locker on anecdotal testing, due to extremely high mycene.

Based on those results, we tweaked the process by freezing the column overnight and dropping the inject temperature of the n-Butane to around -20C, using liquid N2 as coolant through the Mk IVC's counter flow injection heat exchanger. 

Since it was for a cup competition, I simply watched and offered encouragement and council, while the new owners strutted their stuff with their newest equipment and training, using material from their own gardens and curing process.

That further lowered the plant wax pickup, which reduced concentrate cloudiness, making it even purdier, while leaving it highly aromatic and tasty, as well as in pull and snap consistency. I returned home before seeing the lab results, but I predict an increase in targeted elements, given that we've further decreased the amount of plant waxes extracted.


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## Quagmire6969 (Jul 19, 2016)

Very interesting thread I know there is no right answers as for temps etc. I have one question though that I feel can be answered. Does the amount of time of purging different if I'm purging say a 40 gram slab compared to a much smaller run where Im only purging 5-10 grams of bho of the same material and process used?


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## Fadedawg (Jul 20, 2016)

Yes, bigger batches require more time, even proportionally.


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## Quagmire6969 (Jul 20, 2016)

That's what i thought


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## illmatix (Sep 20, 2016)

Consistancy is everything, especially as far as tempature goes. Imo you have to use digital temp control or simular accuracy -/+ 1 degree, or you wasting your time. A tempature spike can easily push your shatter into wax. Screw that! Griddles and the like are not for vac purge...they use 15-30degree spikes to climb a couple of degrees and do that constantly thru the purge time. Not good. Temps will jump up and down inevitably

Theres no set number on temp for what makes what as far as consistancy because other variables like how fine you grind up your stalk, what micron screen size your using, how much you agitate your bho, etc. all come into play and in combination with temp. 

I only make Two types myself. Live resin from fresh frozen buds and shatter from cured buds. The goal with temp is to preserve as much flavor as possible by not burning out your terps but making your bho still viscous enough to let out the bubbles of tane when under pressure. 

For Shatter I go 89-95 degrees. For live resin I go 80-89 degrees as to preserve more of its flavor than shatter because raw terps evap quiker as dry cured weed lost most of those terps in its drying phase. 

Nothing in the blast game is black and white but I can tell you that consistancy is key

Another great tip. Agitate the bho least as possible. I make dishes out of Raw Brand parch paper and four paper clips then blast into that so i do not need to scrape with a blade. I set the oarch dish in my chamber and purge it for 48-72 hours without disturbing it and it comes out magical every single time.

The only time you shpuld get a wax result is if you made a mistake. There is no reason to make wax intentionally when you can make shatter instead


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## Afgan King (Sep 20, 2016)

Perfect shatter Everytime 91° 72 hours


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## Afgan King (Sep 20, 2016)

And live resin should be purged at below room temp 60-70°s is ideal


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## Quagmire6969 (Sep 21, 2016)

I love all the info out there on purge times and temps etc. Myself I prefer a shatter finish not a pull and snap but shatter. And temp is the most crucial thing imo. If i go any higher then 96° it will start to wax up on me. In my location if i stay 95° or less it has come out to a shatter consistency every single time. I don't winterize either unless it's requested if I'm running it for someone else. I have had people dab trim runs of my shatter not winterized and people tell me now that's done right I can't taste no waxes or lipids and they think it's a nug run. I found when I did winterize it always came out to a pull and snap consistency and I find the winterization process removes way too many terpines.
I have only did 1 run of live resin and found the yields suffer way to much. I was wondering if i did do a batch of fresh frozen then let the material dry out if i blast it again will I get the rest of the trichomes cause when I did fresh frozen that once I got less then half of what I would usually get from a tube of material.


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## Afgan King (Sep 21, 2016)

Quagmire6969 said:


> I love all the info out there on purge times and temps etc. Myself I prefer a shatter finish not a pull and snap but shatter. And temp is the most crucial thing imo. If i go any higher then 96° it will start to wax up on me. In my location if i stay 95° or less it has come out to a shatter consistency every single time. I don't winterize either unless it's requested if I'm running it for someone else. I have had people dab trim runs of my shatter not winterized and people tell me now that's done right I can't taste no waxes or lipids and they think it's a nug run. I found when I did winterize it always came out to a pull and snap consistency and I find the winterization process removes way too many terpines.
> I have only did 1 run of live resin and found the yields suffer way to much. I was wondering if i did do a batch of fresh frozen then let the material dry out if i blast it again will I get the rest of the trichomes cause when I did fresh frozen that once I got less then half of what I would usually get from a tube of material.


Yields don't really suffer too much when you think of it. 1lb wet = around 2.5-3oz dry. Average weight loss is more than 80% especially on trim


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## Peaches420420 (Sep 25, 2016)

Dabbing concentrates really opened me up to knew things involving marijuana. Does this site offer anything of value? http://dabbingzone.com/


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## Eat2live (Oct 27, 2016)

BluJayz said:


> Usually takes 10-24 hours of purging on and off...
> 
> For me shatter is just another vac and a cable box dry away from wax. (Others should chime in with better methods)
> 
> Try to stay between 100F-120F and as I reeceently learned don't go further than 29.5hg


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## Eat2live (Oct 27, 2016)

What if your vac wont go that high


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## BeeDabbin (Nov 4, 2016)

Then I would assum purge it for longer


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## Afgan King (Nov 4, 2016)

Eat2live said:


> What if your vac wont go that high


What's your elevation and what do u hit? I'm in Colorado over a mile high I can barely pull 26 but in Florida same pumps on setup and could pull 29-30. All depends where you are


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## Eat2live (Nov 4, 2016)

With my elevation I can hit 26.7 invermere bc


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## BeeDabbin (Nov 4, 2016)

New york


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## BeeDabbin (Nov 4, 2016)

You live in a state u can go get the best of the best I guess I've never been fortunate enough to have the luxury of going to the dispensary and saying hey I wanna g of moxie live resin lol just saying


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## Afgan King (Nov 4, 2016)

BeeDabbin said:


> You live in a state u can go get the best of the best I guess I've never been fortunate enough to have the luxury of going to the dispensary and saying hey I wanna g of moxie live resin lol just saying


Fuck that most dispensaries suck I don't live in Denver and even then not the greatest. Green labs and craft 710 are the shit but I'm not paying 30 a g for shatter and 50 for full melt when I can make my own lol used to work for them I have a mkc4 myself I make hash just as fire granted I use their technique's or atleast the head extractors technique. The best weed and hash normally doesn't come from dispensaries. Ask @ttystikk what people say up here about the hash I make and mainly from his trim as well. People go nuts


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## YBAdick? (Feb 24, 2018)

BCOGYODA said:


> Not really. You gotta be REAL careful at those temps cause different strains respond differently.
> I've waxed up a lot of runs now at only 107-110
> And I've had perma goo form at only 128-130F
> And not sure exactly what you mean by "oil" at 140 and up but at those temps I've got taffy cause I don't winterize so It's my understanding if you still have plant waxes/lipids in your "oil" it will never be liquid low viscosity oil without winterizing it to get the impurities completely out.
> ...





BCOGYODA said:


> Not really. You gotta be REAL careful at those temps cause different strains respond differently.
> I've waxed up a lot of runs now at only 107-110
> And I've had perma goo form at only 128-130F
> And not sure exactly what you mean by "oil" at 140 and up but at those temps I've got taffy cause I don't winterize so It's my understanding if you still have plant waxes/lipids in your "oil" it will never be liquid low viscosity oil without winterizing it to get the impurities completely out.
> ...


Im new but experienced in a professional capacity and thought I’d share some scientific info with you fellow enthusiasts. I hate secretive dickheads, this the username. Ok, Depending on the solvent used, chlorophyll, waxes, lipids and so on don’t even get extracted in the initial process. For example if using 5X butane the aforementioned wont be brought along for the ride. However, butane does have its own set of contaminants that burn off ABOVE the tempS that our beloved cannabinoids and terpenes do. SO, these individual boiling points must be manipulated with vacuum, in a distillation unit (of Sorts). Alcohol on the other hand DOES bring the aforementioned undesirables along but with Almost NO other contaminants. SO, again you’ve got a choice to make considering the material and equipment you have access to. Also, and BERY importantly, how will the end product be consumed. This plays a huge role in determining the manner in which it should be processed and which solvent should be used. Example: remove terpenes for extracts used in edibles and not get the funky taste. How? Fractional Distillation under vacuum, in a specifically modified unit, with wide control over temps ranging well below 0.


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