# best temp n humidity for drying / curing ???



## Blunted247 (May 21, 2010)

everyone post their opinions based on experience ......i could use some good advice.

also.....i was wondering if anyone knows about soaking roots in water buckets before chop to drain the chlorophyl while its in the dark for 2 days. i heard it from someone old skool...wanted more detailed info on how thats done...last time i tried n i had dirt everywhere lol. 

thanks


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## JoNny Pot sMokeR (May 21, 2010)

Yeah i soak my roots for 2 or 3 days depending on the size of the plants. my old school uncle actualy boils his roots and his smoke is super clean. here is a little drying and curing guide with all info included hope it helps. 

Manicuring, Drying, And Curing marijuana

Right after all the plants have been harvested, it is time to manicure them. Manicuring is simply cutting off the leaves that were growing from the buds. Cut off all the leaves surrounding the bud, so that just the bud remains.

Work over a glass table or some kind of smooth flat surface. This will make it easy to collect all the material that has been cut away from the buds. It is lower in THC than the buds, but rather than throw it away, you can use it to make hash oil.

When manicuring the buds, use a pair of scissors with small blades (to reach hard to get leaves) that is comfortable on your hands. If you have a small crop, you can handle the plants with you bare hands. With a large crop, wear powder free latex gloves.

The latex gloves will collect trichome resin in a similar manner to the way live marijuana plants are rubbed to make hashish. The latex gloves have to be powder free or the powder will get mixed into the resin.

Do not touch anything other than the plants once you have put the gloves on. If you have to do something, remove the gloves you are wearing and put them in a plastic bag, prior to doing whatever it is that has to be done.

When finished, put on a pair of new gloves. Material on the first pair can be collected later. When you are finished manicuring all the plants, remove the gloves and place them in a plastic bag (to catch resin that drops off).

Put the plastic bag with the gloves in a freezer for 2-3 hours. The trichome resin can easily be peeled from the frozen latex gloves and consumed the same way you would use hashish.

If absolutely necessary, you can wait to manicure the buds. However, the job will take more time if you wait. Manicuring right after the plants are harvested will also speed the drying process.

Instead smoking marijuana directly after it is harvested and manicured, it is best to dry and cure it. Some new growers might be in such a rush to try the marijuana that they don't want to dry the crop, or they might be tempted to put buds in a microwave oven to dry them out. 

Drying marijuana After Harvest

You probably don't want to smoke marijuana that is harsh and bad tasting. If you do not take time to dry the bud, you will not get the best possible smell and taste your crop is capable of producing.

Proper drying and curing will also ensure maximum potency of the marijuana you have grown. marijuana is not potent just after harvest. Some of the THC is in a non-psychoactive acidic form. Drying marijuana the right way will convert the non-psychoactive acidic compounds into psychoactive THC.

The area where the drying is done should be dark. Light and high temperatures (higher than about 80 degrees) will cause THC to break down into less desirable chemicals, this will lower the potency of the finished product.

A good way to dry the crop is to hang the buds upside-down by the stem, from some string or wire. The drying marijuana must have some circulation blowing over it at all times. A gentle breeze that circulates over all the plants is necessary.

A fan or two will circulate air within the drying room. Fans will aid in drying the plants evenly, and reducing the chances of mold.

If mold starts and is allowed to grow, it might ruin all of your crop. Mold looks like white fuzz and has an odor that is unpleasant.
You will have to keep the temperature and humidity within a certain range for optimal results. 

Conditions should remain constantly somewhere within the following ranges, temperature should be between 65-75 degrees F, relative humidity should be between 45%-55%.

At temperatures lower than 65 degrees, drying time will be lengthened. At temperatures higher than 75 degrees, the heat will cause the outer portion of the bud to dry quicker than the inner part, and the taste will suffer.

At humidity levels lower than 45%, the marijuana will dry too fast and the taste will suffer. At humidity levels higher than 55%, the marijuana will take a long time to dry, and it will be prone to mold.

Keep a hygrometer and a thermometer in the drying area, close to the plants. A hygrometer will allow you to keep an eye on the relative humidity level in the room and a thermometer will display the temperature. Some hygrometers have built in thermometers so you can measure the temperature and humidity together.

Depending on the time of year and your location, a heater or an air conditioner may be necessary to adjust the temperature. To control humidity, a dehumidifier can lower humidity and a humidifier can be used to raise humidity. There are warm mist humidifiers and cool mist humidifiers.

A warm mist humidifier will raise the temperature while a cool mist humidifier will not affect the temperature. There are also humidifiers that allow you to switch between warm or cool mist. If you are going to purchase a humidifier for this purpose, take your climate into consideration and buy an appropriate humidifier.

Warm mist models will actually heat the water and release warm humidity. Cool mist water isn't cooled, it just means that water is not heated. In most cases a cool mist will work best. To be safe you can get a humidifier that lets you switch between warm and cool mist. 

Curing marijuana

It will take at least a week or two to dry the crop with temperatures between 65-75 degrees F and relative humidity between 45%-55%. You will know when the marijuana is dry if the stems snap or break (rather than fold) when they are bent. 

Try smoking a small bud (1/2 gram or less) in a joint to be sure it is dry enough.

At this time, small buds will be dry enough to smoke. But larger buds should be cured (slow dried) to ensure that the marijuana is as potent and tasty as possible. If necessary, you can set aside buds that are less than 1/2 gram for smoking, while larger buds cure.

The cure normally lasts a week or two but some strains will do better if left longer. The aim of what you are doing is evenly finishing the slow dry process, so that mold will not grow when the buds are stored long term. Also, by the end of the cure, any remaining inactive THC will be converted to active THC (that increases potency).

To cure the crop, you will need one or more containers made out of glass or plastic. Some people say plastic can impart a taste to the marijuana. Some say plastic containers that some types of roll your own tobacco are sold in, have no negative effect on the taste. You decide.

Containers that have a rubber seal work best, but any type of container with a tight fitting lid will do. One quart canning jars do a very good job if you are curing a few pounds or less. They have a rubber seal and hold 2 or more ounces of marijuana per one quart jar.

When curing quantities in excess of a few pounds, large (over 40 quarts) plastic storage boxes are recommended. They are not air tight, but will do the job when smaller air tight containers are not practical.

Gently place your marijuana in the containers (cut buds to size if the are too big to fit in the container) and put the top on.

Store the containers in a dark area where the temperature is between 50-65 degrees and the humidity is between 40%-60%. 

You will have to open the containers for a few minutes to allow moisture to escape by fanning with your hand. If any moisture builds up on the inside of the cap on your container, wipe it off. Do this preferably 2-6 times daily, at regular 4-12 hour intervals. 

You should also re-arrange the buds by giving them a quarter-turn once a day. This will ensure that different parts of the buds are exposed to the air in the container. 

Keep up this routine for 7-10 days. 

When properly dried, marijuana will burn evenly when smoked in a joint (if stems are removed). The taste will be as good as it can be, and the THC will have reached a point where it is ready to be ingested or stored. 

You can keep any marijuana that will be consumed within a few months (1 year maximum) in the same containers used for curing, without having to keep opening them to release moisture.

If the marijuana is to be stored for more than a few months, you can use a vacuum sealer (designed for storing food) to seal the marijuana in an airtight environment. If stored in a dark area that is between 40-55 degrees F, the marijuana in vacuum sealed plastic will remain potent for up to 5 years.

Dry marijuana can be stored in a frost-free freezer, but some of the THC on the outer part of the buds may be damaged when frozen. 

A refrigerator is in the right temperature range but they tend to be humid (unless you can control the humidity).

If stored in an area of high humidity for months or years, even vacuum sealed marijuana can eventually become as humid as the surrounding air. This will necessitate drying it again before smoking. But, unless mold develops, humidity itself will not degrade the THC or make the marijuana any less potent.

Light will degrade some of the THC, so dark containers can be used for storage. If you place the marijuana in a see through container, it will have to be located in a dark area that is not exposed to light or high temperatures. 

Always make sure to properly dry your marijuana prior to storage, if you grow your own or if the stuff you have is very moist. And remember that to preserve marijuana potency at a maximum level, keep any exposure to air, heat, and light at a minimum.


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## Blunted247 (May 21, 2010)

JoNny Pot sMokeR said:


> Yeah i soak my roots for 2 or 3 days depending on the size of the plants. my old school uncle actualy boils his roots and his smoke is super clean. here is a little drying and curing guide with all info included hope it helps.


yeah see i knew it was somethin....could u go lil more in depth??? like how to kinda.....id appreciate it!!! i hear this is supposed to make some awesome tastin buds even before cure.


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## Sr. Verde (May 22, 2010)

between 65 and 75 degrees for air temp

humidity from 45% to 55%


65F will mean slow drying, 75F means a little faster drying.


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## DobermanGuy (May 22, 2010)

si senor. Im in anticipation of my harvest/curing process. I wanna dress to impress.


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## wvblazin (Sep 13, 2013)

Great info..its coming in handy at this point!


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## Mr.Juana (Nov 9, 2013)

I live in an island relative humidity is about 88% year round -_- worse in some seasons. How will this effect the cure? I really don't want the buds to go schwag-brown because my dumbass tried to cure in a high humidity area.


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## DemonTrich (Nov 9, 2013)

88% r/h, good luck with that. that's a mold contamination issue waiting to happen. you really need a dehumidifier to make the curing process work properly. how do you flower with those high humidity numbers w/o getting any mildew/mold?


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## Mr.Juana (Nov 15, 2013)

I just started my first grow here, haven't grown in 2 years growing out of necessity really the quality is non-existent here. I guess I'd just have fans blowing on the buds and hope for the best  I've asked around and they don't get the problem here because they harvest the plants early.


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## weedow (Nov 18, 2013)

for the temperature, it is recommended to stay around 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit and 45 to 55% humidity level at all times. do not let the humidity level go under 45%. the buds will dry quickly but they'll give you a not so good taste and smoke


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## FuckJeffGoldbloom (Nov 29, 2013)

Boveda.




FJG


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## dannyboy602 (Dec 2, 2013)

Blunted247 said:


> everyone post their opinions based on experience ......i could use some good advice.
> 
> also.....i was wondering if anyone knows about soaking roots in water buckets before chop to drain the chlorophyl while its in the dark for 2 days. i heard it from someone old skool...wanted more detailed info on how thats done...last time i tried n i had dirt everywhere lol.
> 
> thanks


I like 65-70F with 50-60RH. slow n steady. I think draining chlorophyl though roots is just plain silly. its not possible.


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## NOVAorganics (Jan 3, 2014)

boiling the roots!? No that's just some old school old wives tale stuff . It's pretty hilarious some of the stuff our forefathers tell us. slow and steady for this process for trimming for growing for pretty much everything in life slow and steady


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## Piehop (Feb 3, 2014)

I'm thinking that it would be pretty easy to check if boiling the roots actually does anything. If it's supposed to "draw" the chlorophyl out of the plant, you would expect the water to turn green, right? I'm not saying I personally believe this would work, but on the other hand all these old school methods often do have some truth to them in varying degrees. Someone give it a go and tell us how it works out for ya!


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## rxfarmer53 (Mar 4, 2014)

Im currently using the slow dry method ,,and this makes the most sense to me,, and as a middle aged fart ,I aint boiling nothing ..... I can imagine myself trying to stuff my root mass into a boiling pot with all that trich melting steam rising,,im not a pot eater ,,but a smoker and this sounds like a precursor to some final product damage for sure,,,I wouldnt even recomend someone do this to satisfy my curiosity,,common sense gave me ,an answer.


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## Gaius (Mar 4, 2014)

I vote for the easy mode with zero mold-risk.

Here's what I do:

Trim down your fresh-cut buds and toss them on an Amazon drying rack for 3-5 days in RH of 30-40% and temp of 70-75F. 

Once your buds feel light dry to the touch, put them directly into mason jars. Make sure not to pack them tight!!! Leave at least a couple inches of air in the top of the jar. 

Seal up the jars and toss them in your freezer. 

For the first week, open up all the jars every other day and dump their contents into a large bowl or bucket. Then just refill the jars and toss them back in the freezer. 

After the first week, you can start "burping" the jars every few days. To burp the jar you just open it for a minute, close it, and put it back in the freezer. I also shake the frozen buds around in the jar after burping, and this is why I recommend leaving a few inches of air in the jars.

You'll be able to smoke it after the first week or two in the freezer, but the flavor seems to reach its max after about 3-4 weeks of this.

Supposedly you can keep your bud in the freezer for up to a year, but I take mine out after 3-4 weeks of curing. I've been told many a time that my bud was the best tasting people had ever tried.


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## Jussblaz3420 (Jun 27, 2014)

Gaius said:


> I vote for the easy mode with zero mold-risk.
> 
> Here's what I do:
> 
> ...


I like the routine just not the whole shaking the buds right out the freezer part. When u put buds in the freezer the trichomes become brittle and break off much easier, so ur awesome bud that everyone loves could be even awesomer  if u just gently rotate the buds. I shake my jars but i dont freeze em so i dont lose too many trichs. Ever put bud in ur grinder then the freezer for 10-15 mins? U get a shit ton of kief.


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## NyQuilkush318 (Aug 25, 2014)

Can u put humidity packs in jars wright after u take her down from hang dry


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## NyQuilkush318 (Aug 25, 2014)

NyQuilkush318 said:


> Can u put humidity packs in jars wright after u take her down from hang dry


Or u should wate an burp for a week or so then put humidity pack in glass jar how to do the cureing with the packs


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## NyQuilkush318 (Aug 25, 2014)

FuckJeffGoldbloom said:


> Boveda.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Hey bro how the cure useing humidity packs do u put them in the jars wright after u cut her down from hang drying or do u wate n burp for a while then put packs n glass jars how to cure with the packs


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## DemonTrich (Aug 26, 2014)

you must 1st get the humidity down to about 65% before putting in the packs. then burping 1-2x a day until your gauge reads 55-60%. then seal up, put in dark corner for a couple weeks. then your good to go.


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## Frankenberry (Aug 26, 2014)

Absolute best curing method: the three 7's...70' Fahrenheit , 70% RH for 7 days. Your taste buds will thank you


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## DemonTrich (Aug 26, 2014)

really? 70% is way ti high to try and cure meds. read some of the stickies on proper harvesting and curing methods. ive beed doing it this was for over 3 yrs and never have any problems. and my medicine always comes out perfectly.


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## Frankenberry (Aug 26, 2014)

I do not doubt your ways, try it you may like it.


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## DemonTrich (Aug 26, 2014)

Frankenberry said:


> I do not doubt your ways, try it you may like it.



70% rh is when my flowers get put into jars from my drying racks.

pass

ill stick to the tried and true way to cure proper medicine. the stickies are not stickies just to take up bandwidth on here.


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## Staxxx (Aug 26, 2014)

Stickies aren't dogma, stop treating them as such. They provide a solid guideline, and that's about it. Every grower's environment is different. Many variables dictate how and for how long the final product should be dried/cured. Any "sticky" that prescribes rigid numbers fails to take these variables into account.

Also, keep in mind, many personal/hobby growers don't have the luxury of temp/humidity controlled drying rooms etc. So, it is a good idea to leave plants whole (in drier environments) for a nice, slow and even dry. 

And please, don't give me the 'trimming dry is a PITA' spiel. It really isn't...


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## DemonTrich (Aug 27, 2014)

cool, you keep your snongy shit weed. ill take my properly cured anytime.

next I bet your gonna find a better tek for bubble than Mat Rizes. lol


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## Staxxx (Aug 27, 2014)

Ahhhh yes, Matt Rize... 

You mean I can't call myself an extraction "artist" too? 

But I can mix a bucket of ice water and cannabis for x amount of minutes and get melty goodness!!!

Hmmm... must be rocket science.


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## Captain Greenbeard (Dec 23, 2014)

Hello guys! First of all I'd like to say that I am setting up my first grow room right now and have been investing quite a lot of money, time and effort into this. I have been doing research for about 2 years leading up to this so besides being a smoker for the past 14 years most of my knowledge concerning cultivation, drying, curing and storing is theoretical.

There is however something that I'd like to clear up that seem to be forgotten very often when people talk about RH (Relative Humidity) and that is the fact that it's relative  i.e. relative to the temperature. So 65% RH in a room that is kept at a temperature of 20°C (68°F) is not the same amount of moisture as 65% RH in a room that is kept at a temperature of 15°C (59°F). The warmer the air is the more moisture it can hold i.e. 100% RH will then be more actual moisture than 100% RH in a room with a lower temperature.

The reason I want to point this out is because there's soooo many websites, blogs and forums out there that talk about what RH you should aim for during curing. Most of them are basically ball park estimates such as "55-65%RH" etc. And while everyone is talking about temperatures in relation to humidity when it comes to growing or drying - no one is talking about temperatures for curing!? Some people will give you ball park estimates about the temps when curing and the same goes for RH but I'd like to find the absolute best RH for curing and then I also need to know the temperature that goes along with that RH.

The first place who have dared to give a precise number is Boveda who sell a product specifically intended for storing cannabis and they say it's 62% RH. However, when asked about the temperature they say that their product works fine within a wide range of temperatures.... Sigh.... So not even the experts that have products intended for storing cigars, cannabis and whatnot - knows what RH is!? How can this be? Is there something I've missed?

Anyway, the reason I want to find out what the optimal temperature is for curing is because IF Boveda's number (62%) is correct and their product can hold this RH then it should mean that there's no need to burp the jars at all. The reason anyone burps their jars (as you all probably know) is due to the fact that there's excessive moisture left in the stems and even some in the core of the buds and as the buds are sealed up in air tight containers this moisture works its way out through the buds, making them wet again. So you open the jars to let this excess moisture escape and then seal it up again. But, from many experts I've been in contact with they say that the curing is mainly a process where anaerobic bacteria feeds off of left-over chlorophyll, sugars and starch and as these bacteria are anaerobic it means they need to do their thing in an air free environment (anaerobic means living without air). So in this regard the burping is actually counter productive to what you're trying to achieve, it is however a necessary evil due to the fact that if you didn't burp the jars mold would form on the buds and you lose your harvest. But if Boveda's product could take care of the excess moisture for us it would mean that we don't have to burp the jars and the anaerobic bacteria can do its thing until the curing process is finished. All we need to do is sit back and await the finished product.

But for this to be possible we need to also know the exact temperature that goes along with that 62% that Boveda claims and... Well, they seemed quite stumped when I wrote to them. They have now handed over my questions to their chemists that will get back to me after the holidays.

Anyways, any thoughts on this?


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## RM3 (Dec 23, 2014)

I boil my roots  Have for years 

silly kids trics are for stoners


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## MrBangBang (Jan 16, 2015)

I think that there is something that everyone is missing. This is an old school trick. Most old school growers grew in environments where it was hot year round because they grew outdoors. Now we all agree that drying our buds too quickly makes for a harsh smoke. So in these hot year round environments it would be to their benefit to boil the roots which would in turn make the leaves slam their cells closed, in turn making sure the bud doesn't dry out too quickly. I haven't used this method, but to me this makes the most sense and I would if I were growing in say Arizona, but being that I am in NYC and the indoor temps are around 70 degrees I can better control my drying process.


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## GreenThumbsMcgee (May 2, 2015)

dannyboy602 said:


> I like 65-70F with 50-60RH. slow n steady. I think draining chlorophyl though roots is just plain silly. its not possible.


 agreed....


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## hotshotisdashit (May 25, 2015)

Gaius said:


> I vote for the easy mode with zero mold-risk.
> 
> Here's what I do:
> 
> ...


With this method does your cannabis buds retain that dank smell to them?


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## 420KushPharm (May 28, 2015)

FuckJeffGoldbloom said:


> Boveda.
> 
> Your name rocks!!!
> 
> ...


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## Smokenpassout (Jun 2, 2015)

78-79 and fifty to fifty five percent humidity.


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## Know One (Dec 24, 2015)

The Boveda 62% rh works like a charm for full cure. With this method it is best NOT to burp container, instead, let the packets work for a week in the container closed.
Put the product in the jar/container with packet and it will cure to a perfect 62%.
I still like to cure old school just to enjoy the process. 56% to 65% is the optimum goal for me.
Once drying shows 55%rh or less there is no curing that product. it's too dry.


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## a senile fungus (Dec 24, 2015)

Know One said:


> The Boveda 62% rh works like a charm for full cure. With this method it is best NOT to burp container, instead, let the packets work for a week in the container closed.
> Put the product in the jar/container with packet at and it will cure to a perfect 62%.
> I still like to cure old school just to enjoy the process. 56% to 65% is the optimum goal for me.
> Once drying shows 55%rh or less there is no curing that product. it's too dry.



Do you have a source for that info, or just personal opinion?

I would NEVER leave humid buds in a jar and not burp them for a week! Yes, the bovedas work great, but they work slowly, and have a limit to how much moisture they can give out and absorb. 

I feel it's best to get your buds near where you want them, then, once the risk of mold has passed, then leave them in the jar with the bovedas.


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## MrStickyScissors (Dec 24, 2015)

I like 70 to 72 degrees for 6 days. Then i trim then most of the time its gone right away. If i have to hold onto ot i will put it in big zip lock bags i double bag. Shit i only have to hold on to it for like 4 days tops lol. 72 degrees with a fan blowing gently. I leave all the leaves on and slow dry.


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## MrStickyScissors (Dec 24, 2015)

Just hang and dry. If your shits fire it sill be fire. If its boo boo you can try all the curring tech. In the world its still boo boo


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## MrStickyScissors (Dec 24, 2015)

I dry mine in the same condition i would flower in just a little lower temp


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## Know One (Dec 24, 2015)

a senile fungus said:


> Do you have a source for that info, or just personal opinion?
> 
> I would NEVER leave humid buds in a jar and not burp them for a week! Yes, the bovedas work great, but they work slowly, and have a limit to how much moisture they can give out and absorb.
> 
> I feel it's best to get your buds near where you want them, then, once the risk of mold has passed, then leave them in the jar with the bovedas.


 Yes, I am the source and I am speaking from experience. With all due respect, the discussion is about curing with Boveda packets, right?
I was talking about just curing with Boveda, not using them to dry your buds. 
When I did my experiment with the Boveda packets, I put the bud in a container (after drying) at about 68%rh. I also gently moved container appropriately during process to insure buds had some movement in the container. 
As I mentioned, I still prefer the old school curing for smaller amounts just for peace of mind, but I did try the Boveda challenge and found it to work better than expected. 
I also tried a large packet (they come for small and larger containers) in a 5 gallon bucket with a twist down lid, left unopened a week. It worked very well for the amount if handling larger quantities.


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## a senile fungus (Dec 24, 2015)

Know One said:


> Yes, I am the source and I am speaking from experience. With all due respect, the discussion is about curing with Boveda packets, right?
> I was talking about just curing with Boveda, not using them to dry your buds.
> When I did my experiment with the Boveda packets, I put the bud in a container (after drying) at about 68%rh. I also gently moved container appropriately during process to insure buds had some movement in the container.
> As I mentioned, I still prefer the old school curing for smaller amounts just for peace of mind, but I did try the Boveda challenge and found it to work better than expected.
> I also tried a large packet (they come for small and larger containers) in a 5 gallon bucket with a twist down lid, left unopened a week. It worked very well for the amount if handling larger quantities.


ah ok! i thought that you were recommending that people just place the wet buds into the jar with boveda pack. i was like noooooooooooo!

and thanks for the info about the 5gal buckets. i just picked up ten of them, with the airtight lids, for ten bucks. i wanted to see how they did for curing and storing...

thanks for remaining civil! lol, sometimes its rare round these parts!


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## Delta1+8 (Mar 7, 2016)

Captain Greenbeard said:


> Hello guys! First of all I'd like to say that I am setting up my first grow room right now and have been investing quite a lot of money, time and effort into this. I have been doing research for about 2 years leading up to this so besides being a smoker for the past 14 years most of my knowledge concerning cultivation, drying, curing and storing is theoretical.
> 
> There is however something that I'd like to clear up that seem to be forgotten very often when people talk about RH (Relative Humidity) and that is the fact that it's relative  i.e. relative to the temperature. So 65% RH in a room that is kept at a temperature of 20°C (68°F) is not the same amount of moisture as 65% RH in a room that is kept at a temperature of 15°C (59°F). The warmer the air is the more moisture it can hold i.e. 100% RH will then be more actual moisture than 100% RH in a room with a lower temperature.
> 
> ...


Hello there good sir! I'm definitely not a newb and I'm not a botanist either but ... I always work in a space where it is completely climate controlled and I've learned over that years that whether veg'n, flowering, drying or curing... it's environment, environment, environment and complete or relative control of all the factors therein. Granted, I know that option may not be available to beginners or peeps just trying to grow some personal meds with not a lot of cash in hand or to spare... but rather than spinning the wheels so to speak... make sure that's your first and largest investment of time, money and the like. Here in the West Coast/So Cal and have done the same in the Bay Area... I have seen Grade A results with 72 degrees and 55% RH... if either fluctuate... make sure to have the other do so accordingly if at all possible (like what you already stated that humidity is relative etc...). Cheers! There's something to learn from everyone and would urge those of us who are more experienced in the arts to not be a d*ckhead to those interested in learning or experimenting. Just sayin'... we all been there. Peace ya'll.


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## Delta1+8 (Mar 7, 2016)

Delta1+8 said:


> Hello there good sir! I'm definitely not a newb and I'm not a botanist either but ... I always work in a space where it is completely climate controlled and I've learned over that years that whether veg'n, flowering, drying or curing... it's environment, environment, environment and complete or relative control of all the factors therein. Granted, I know that option may not be available to beginners or peeps just trying to grow some personal meds with not a lot of cash in hand or to spare... but rather than spinning the wheels so to speak... make sure that's your first and largest investment of time, money and the like. Here in the West Coast/So Cal and have done the same in the Bay Area... I have seen Grade A results with 72 degrees and 55% RH... if either fluctuate... make sure to have the other do so accordingly if at all possible (like what you already stated that humidity is relative etc...). Cheers! There's something to learn from everyone and would urge those of us who are more experienced in the arts to not be a d*ckhead to those interested in learning or experimenting. Just sayin'... we all been there. Peace ya'll.


Oh... and once again would like to stress that no matter where you are in altitude, climate etc... ENVIRONMENTAL CONTROL MAKES IT NOT FACTOR INTO THE EQUATION. You may have to drop some dough on dehum, hum, x-ton AC, water chiller or heater etc, etc... but you get my point.


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## Dogenzengi (Apr 12, 2016)

DemonTrich said:


> you must 1st get the humidity down to about 65% before putting in the packs. then burping 1-2x a day until your gauge reads 55-60%. then seal up, put in dark corner for a couple weeks. then your good to go.





Staxxx said:


> Stickies aren't dogma, stop treating them as such. They provide a solid guideline, and that's about it. Every grower's environment is different. Many variables dictate how and for how long the final product should be dried/cured. Any "sticky" that prescribes rigid numbers fails to take these variables into account.
> 
> Also, keep in mind, many personal/hobby growers don't have the luxury of temp/humidity controlled drying rooms etc. So, it is a good idea to leave plants whole (in drier environments) for a nice, slow and even dry.
> 
> And please, don't give me the 'trimming dry is a PITA' spiel. It really isn't...


I agree trimming dry is not a big deal.


I hang my plants whole, 78 degrees and 55% in a dark room with no air movement.
Depending on the plant They come down in 2-4 days.
I take the plants while the stems are still flexible.
I seperate all the branches trim and stack them in a large brown paper bag.
The bag gets folded closed tightly and clipped closed.
The bag is semi permeable so you can smell the last chlorophyll coming thru the bag, 2 days in the bag and then into Mason jars.
I Burp my jars for an hour a day for a week then Once a week for an hour.
My buds are dry and firm and my smoke is smooth.

Many roads lead to the same place.

Bless,
DZ


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## Scottio (Jun 3, 2016)

If I live in a 85 degree temp area, with no ac in my house, and I'm about to harvest and start drying. What do I do? Do I need to buy an ac >:/


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## Lucky Luke (Jun 3, 2016)

Scottio said:


> If I live in a 85 degree temp area, with no ac in my house, and I'm about to harvest and start drying. What do I do? Do I need to buy an ac >:/


Thats only 29.5 C. Thats not hot. Hell its not even swimming temps.


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## Qroniq (Aug 19, 2016)

Hey guys lots of great info here. Special thanks to Captain Greenbeard for pointing out the obvious, yet all too often overlooked fact that humidity is relative. Delta1+8 I completely agree with everything you stated, well said my friend. it is so easy to misinterpret someones intentions with a post when there is no body language associated with it to guide your reaction. For me that is the worst part of public forums such as these. Anyways I digress.

I've read this entire thread because I need to improve my drying/curing method. I've learned several things here that I will employ next go round in hopes of better results. It did get me to wondering however if there is a way to maybe wick the jars somehow to let the moisture still escape without having to burp them daily for curing. Or possibly even a filter that only lets air pass one way? Just kind of wondering out loud.

Thanks again everyone and hope you all have a great day!!


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## since1991 (Jul 24, 2017)

Fuk some frikin Boveda packets unless your newish at this. I mean..they work and all but once ya get the hang of it..forget that shit. Lets just agree on the basics of drying first off...as that is where curing begins. Ideal conditions for drying buds whether you dry trim or wet trim ( dry trim leaves a better product for cure but is slower) is 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit and relative humidity at 45 to 60 %. You can gather from these numbers that 70 temp and 50 % RH is the sweet spot. For most growers a wet trim will take up to 5 to 10 days for stem snap dry or close and for the dry trim crowd 7 to 14 days at these temps and rh numbers. Like the plants while they are growing...buds like consistentcy while drying as well. An air conditoner and/or dehumidifier is your friend and I use both or just one depending on time of year/season. Point being..a dedicated drying area with these 2 appliances being ideal. Some growers in certain dry parts of the world actually need humidifiers to avoid too quick of a dry time. A gentle circulation fan blowing this good air around but not directly on the buds is standard as well. No direct light but it doesnt have to be pitch black like the dark period of a flower room either. Doesnt hurt if it is. But no direct bright light. Follow what I say and jar or bag them buds up once they are stem snap ready or close to it. Monitor the jars daily and use your better judgement from there for the prime product. You will have to "sweat" the jars daily for the first few days for the last moisture content removal. Use your intuition and common sense. You will get good cured buds if you grow and dry them correctly.


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## SPLFreak808 (Jul 27, 2017)

since1991 said:


> Fuk some frikin Boveda packets unless your newish at this. I mean..they work and all but once ya get the hang of it..forget that shit. Lets just agree on the basics of drying first off...as that is where curing begins. Ideal conditions for drying buds whether you dry trim or wet trim ( dry trim leaves a better product for cure but is slower) is 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit and relative humidity at 45 to 60 %. You can gather from these numbers that 70 temp and 50 % RH is the sweet spot. For most growers a wet trim will take up to 5 to 10 days for stem snap dry or close and for the dry trim crowd 7 to 14 days at these temps and rh numbers. Like the plants while they are growing...buds like consistentcy while drying as well. An air conditoner and/or dehumidifier is your friend and I use both or just one depending on time of year/season. Point being..a dedicated drying area with these 2 appliances being ideal. Some growers in certain dry parts of the world actually need humidifiers to avoid too quick of a dry time. A gentle circulation fan blowing this good air around but not directly on the buds is standard as well. No direct light but it doesnt have to be pitch black like the dark period of a flower room either. Doesnt hurt if it is. But no direct bright light. Follow what I say and jar or bag them buds up once they are stem snap ready or close to it. Monitor the jars daily and use your better judgement from there for the prime product. You will have to "sweat" the jars daily for the first few days for the last moisture content removal. Use your intuition and common sense. You will get good cured buds if you grow and dry them correctly.


Yup. I cannot stress the importance of correctly timing the dry period according to the environment.

I agree, Bovedas = only really good for storage.

Not sure why people try to force the jars at 62% during the first week of cure lol, its still gotta be burped to get the broken down matter out. Ime can even make some strains taste funny because its sucking up the moisture in the jar but leaving all the gas behind.

Too much moisture can actually accumulate in the boveda pack raising its RH which is no good for a timely cure, you could even accidentally reverse it by leaving it outdoors or in a dry area. A big 62% pack weighs 67 grams when working properly.


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## Cody Binette (Jan 14, 2018)

Sr. Verde said:


> between 65 and 75 degrees for air temp
> 
> humidity from 45% to 55%
> 
> ...


What if my temps are between 58°f and 65°f because I'm drying in my basement during the winter. Would that still be ok?


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## puffer1958 (Feb 3, 2018)

Cody Binette said:


> What if my temps are between 58°f and 65°f because I'm drying in my basement during the winter. Would that still be ok?


65 is better. Usually I see 65-75. Humidity is key. Try for 45-55 humidity.


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## Cody Binette (Feb 4, 2018)

puffer1958 said:


> 65 is better. Usually I see 65-75. Humidity is key. Try for 45-55 humidity.


Thank you. My basement was a little to dry so I couldn't hang dry for as long as I would have liked to. Definitely going to get a small humidifier for my drying area next harvest. Dried fully in 6 days and have been in jars now for 2 weeks. Ended up turning out pretty damn good. Just waiting for the flavors to fully develop now.


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## puffer1958 (Feb 4, 2018)

Watch your humidity. As far as your basement being dry, 6 days indicates that it's not too dry. If it were on the low humidity side it would have dried in 3 or less days. The slower the dry time the better without being so humid that it becomes susceptible to mold (60%+) Good luck


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## Beachwalker (Feb 26, 2018)

After trying to deal with 14 - 16% humidity this winter (which filled up my hash bin quick with some overdried bud)

Inkbird dual controller set for 62% controls humidifier (& dehumidifier if needed)

Hang branches for 3 days, trim (smallest buds may be ready to jar?) big buds go into hanging basket up to three more days or till tested ready by putting in sealed jar with small humidity gauge

Grouping same size buds together on drying rack make it easy to take small buds out first, and the big colas come out last

Then into jars (no bodiva packs, I think they change or take flavor in some way) and then the burping begins


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## Vegasgrowing85 (Mar 15, 2018)

since1991 said:


> Fuk some frikin Boveda packets unless your newish at this. I mean..they work and all but once ya get the hang of it..forget that shit. Lets just agree on the basics of drying first off...as that is where curing begins. Ideal conditions for drying buds whether you dry trim or wet trim ( dry trim leaves a better product for cure but is slower) is 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit and relative humidity at 45 to 60 %. You can gather from these numbers that 70 temp and 50 % RH is the sweet spot. For most growers a wet trim will take up to 5 to 10 days for stem snap dry or close and for the dry trim crowd 7 to 14 days at these temps and rh numbers. Like the plants while they are growing...buds like consistentcy while drying as well. An air conditoner and/or dehumidifier is your friend and I use both or just one depending on time of year/season. Point being..a dedicated drying area with these 2 appliances being ideal. Some growers in certain dry parts of the world actually need humidifiers to avoid too quick of a dry time. A gentle circulation fan blowing this good air around but not directly on the buds is standard as well. No direct light but it doesnt have to be pitch black like the dark period of a flower room either. Doesnt hurt if it is. But no direct bright light. Follow what I say and jar or bag them buds up once they are stem snap ready or close to it. Monitor the jars daily and use your better judgement from there for the prime product. You will have to "sweat" the jars daily for the first few days for the last moisture content removal. Use your intuition and common sense. You will get good cured buds if you grow and dry them correctly.


Sorry if this has already been discussed, but question about light on the buds, maybe I’m being too intense about it, but when you’ve had them with no light while drying, I do a dry trim also, should I do this in a darker area, or does it not really matter, I also just got Boveda packs and a wine cooler for my cure. Reading now that it changes the flavor, so I’ll do a few with and few without. Thanks for the help


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## *** River Rat *** (Sep 10, 2018)

...everyone has their own opinion on how to dry and cure....as well as temps for drying and curing. 

Read a lot about it online and see what works best for you. 

Info you should take away is : don't over dry your bud before jarring....you can always remove moisture....can't really replace it.
Around 70° and 50% RH seems to be consistent with many growers. 
For curing properly (if you're serious about it) you will need a hygrometer(s) for your jars.
If too wet in jars you will likely get mold if not corrected...
You can't/shouldn't smoke mold, meaning you'll have to throw away your hard work .
Below 55% RH inside your jars...curing will cease and can't restart. 

And the REAL reason I'm posting...because it's an old thread and constantly being reread...for all you noobs....DON'T believe all posts.
Someone at the start of this thread suggested putting plants roots in water for 3 days before drying !!!! And people responded with. .."thanks for the info !!"...

Wrong !! Wrong !!....do not do that !! Just old school wives tales !! It really is stupid !! Yeah...I heard the boiling roots story too...
For you noobs..the theory on messing with the roots is to cause the plant stress...when stressed the plants will create more THC as a defense mechanism. 
If getting THC into a plant were that EZ all of our hands would be waterlogged !!

Enjoy growing...and listen to your plants !! 
Peace.


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## Seymour Green (Sep 13, 2018)

This might be a dumb question but, if 70* Fahrenheit and 50%rh is the sweet spot for drying, would 78* and 58%rh be almost equivalent because the increased rh balances out the increase in temp or is this bad science? I'm asking because this the best I can achieve in my drying tent right now lol!


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## *** River Rat *** (Sep 13, 2018)

I understand your theory of the temp and RH increase of balancing off ......but it is wrong.
78° will dry out the buds pretty fast....even with extra humidity.
The thing you're trying to do is break down the chlorophyll in the buds and allow chemical reactions to take place an start the cure. All the time trying not to damage those precious trichomes....and preserve terpenes (smell).
Humidity control is to keep mold from forming.
If you get mold...you can't (shouldn't) smoke it. Has to be thrown away.
I'm not sure if you harvesting wet or dry...
My best suggestion is to Google harvesting and drying.....and read different opinions. 
You don't want all your efforts of growing top notch weed...and in the end it's an average smoke.
Make it the best flavor...smooth smoking bud you can.
Are you going to cure in jars...paper bags...not cure...sell it.....all things that affect what YOU want.
Do some reading and try to find out what's best for you.
Trial and error...we've all done it.
Also keep notes so you will know what you did right..wrong...and what you should change for next time.
Good luck....and have friends over to enjoy your tasty bud !!


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## Seymour Green (Sep 14, 2018)

*** River Rat *** said:


> I understand your theory of the temp and RH increase of balancing off ......but it is wrong.
> 78° will dry out the buds pretty fast....even with extra humidity.
> The thing you're trying to do is break down the chlorophyll in the buds and allow chemical reactions to take place an start the cure. All the time trying not to damage those precious trichomes....and preserve terpenes (smell).
> Humidity control is to keep mold from forming.
> ...


I was afraid of that. Well I converted a small portable closet into a drying room, and with an ac and a dehuey running simultaneously, I've managed to keep the temp at 68° and rh at 53. My question is, will the two days the plant was drying at 58% rh and 78° be detrimental? I don't want the plant to be dried to quick because of the two days it dried at 78°. By the way, I dry trim and hang my plants whole, and the plant in question is five feet and not very leafy if that matters.


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## *** River Rat *** (Sep 15, 2018)

If you hang the entire plant...I doubt 2 days at those figures would hurt much. There is plenty of moisture in the stems..leaves and buds so I think you're all set. Seems you have 68° and 53rh in a room. That would be perfectly fine ! Nice job !
A 5' plant....you're gonna have sore hands after that trim ! Lol.
You are under control ...great work....keep notes.
Peace.


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## Seymour Green (Sep 15, 2018)

*** River Rat *** said:


> If you hang the entire plant...I doubt 2 days at those figures would hurt much. There is plenty of moisture in the stems..leaves and buds so I think you're all set. Seems you have 68° and 53rh in a room. That would be perfectly fine ! Nice job !
> A 5' plant....you're gonna have sore hands after that trim ! Lol.
> You are under control ...great work....keep notes.
> Peace.


Thanks River Rat! That makes me feel a whole lot better. And I'm trying to bribe a friend with a couple buds to help me trim lol!


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## *** River Rat *** (Sep 17, 2018)

Nice to have friends that can handle sharp implements !!

Let's your helpers keep their own scissor hash too !!


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## 52darth69 (Oct 6, 2018)

... If terpenes begin to evaporate at 70°, why would anyone want to dry or cure cannabis at temperatures in excess of 70°? .... To facilitate a slower, easier to control cure I would think 60° / 60% would be ideal


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## LinguaPeel (Oct 7, 2018)

52darth69 said:


> ... If terpenes begin to evaporate at 70°, why would anyone want to dry or cure cannabis at temperatures in excess of 70°? .... To facilitate a slower, easier to control cure I would think 60° / 60% would be ideal


Starches n stuff break down faster. Ever been to the south? East coast? There's a reason strains like ECSD are noteworthy from these climates. Because the humidity is high. We still stink up the neighborhood with a zip like the near mythical skunk that the west coast evolved out of existence by replacing weed exudates with beet exudates. Same strains in Colorado or LA can't even stink past the bag they're in, even when grown right.

Everyone growing hydro wants to control their climate, and preserve the minimal terps that are there and already flashing off. Growing natural/probiotic like we do in the south, the crops been building up huge levels of unconverted substances the entire grow, along with the reinforcements to hold them from flashing, and the humidity must be what makes it obvious why a slow cure between 70-80° (and high humidity) creates dank: increased conversion into desired metabolites through microbial activity.

But you know, the same body of science that states there are no strains also has no understanding of microbes working in the plant, nor do they grasp how lactic acid cuts fertilizer needs to nearly nothing, so it makes perfect sense to listen to that train of thought, right! All that yield based research with no regard for secondary metabolism.

I've resurrected a lot of "hay" from inexperienced growers. Once you see enough weed converted from hay smell and dirt flavor into the Pink Panties, Gorilla Glue or whatever it was meant to be, all notion of "preserving da terps" goes out the window.

Anyone who's had dirt/hay weed turn into something amazing after getting the dry back on cycle, should be able to tell whats going on. And like I said. With shitty hydrostore mersh garbage, there is nothing left to convert. Why anyone thinks they can grow novelty weed and expect to have dank that can be cured to a solid sticky loud bud is beyond me. You might as well freezedry the starchless sugarless fatless oilless artificially scented (puke!) hydro crap before it turns from Miracle-Gro reggie into Miracle-Gro straw.


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## Miyagismokes (Oct 7, 2018)

LinguaPeel said:


> Starches n stuff break down faster. Ever been to the south? East coast? There's a reason strains like ECSD are noteworthy from these climates. Because the humidity is high. We still stink up the neighborhood with a zip like the near mythical skunk that the west coast evolved out of existence by replacing weed exudates with beet exudates. Same strains in Colorado or LA can't even stink past the bag they're in, even when grown right.
> 
> Everyone growing hydro wants to control their climate, and preserve the minimal terps that are there and already flashing off. Growing natural/probiotic like we do in the south, the crops been building up huge levels of unconverted substances the entire grow, along with the reinforcements to hold them from flashing, and the humidity must be what makes it obvious why a slow cure between 70-80° (and high humidity) creates dank: increased conversion into desired metabolites through microbial activity.
> 
> ...


There's some vitriol there for Cali, hydro, and grow stores in that post. Just a little.


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## Seymour Green (Oct 8, 2018)

LinguaPeel said:


> Starches n stuff break down faster. Ever been to the south? East coast? There's a reason strains like ECSD are noteworthy from these climates. Because the humidity is high. We still stink up the neighborhood with a zip like the near mythical skunk that the west coast evolved out of existence by replacing weed exudates with beet exudates. Same strains in Colorado or LA can't even stink past the bag they're in, even when grown right.
> 
> Everyone growing hydro wants to control their climate, and preserve the minimal terps that are there and already flashing off. Growing natural/probiotic like we do in the south, the crops been building up huge levels of unconverted substances the entire grow, along with the reinforcements to hold them from flashing, and the humidity must be what makes it obvious why a slow cure between 70-80° (and high humidity) creates dank: increased conversion into desired metabolites through microbial activity.
> 
> ...


Can you please elaborate on your tech? I'm on the east coast, and have been having a hell of a time, even with 68°f and 53%rh. Stuff still coming out kind of tasteless. I had a friend build a climate controlled dry room to emulate what the jungle boys where doing. Had it set to 65° and 60 rh and started developing mold after 2 days. Bumped it up to 70°, but kept rh between 60-65% and still developed mold. Any help is appreciated, was growing my liberty haze since march and just picked a month ago after 18 weeks from the flip, and it tastes like shit after curing almost 3 weeks.


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## SPLFreak808 (Oct 8, 2018)

Seymour Green said:


> Can you please elaborate on your tech? I'm on the east coast, and have been having a hell of a time, even with 68°f and 53%rh. Stuff still coming out kind of tasteless. I had a friend build a climate controlled dry room to emulate what the jungle boys where doing. Had it set to 65° and 60 rh and started developing mold after 2 days. Bumped it up to 70°, but kept rh between 60-65% and still developed mold. Any help is appreciated, was growing my liberty haze since march and just picked a month ago after 18 weeks from the flip, and it tastes like shit after curing almost 3 weeks.


If your loosing flavor over time you might just have a spore contaminated flowering/drying area, if it taste like crap from the get go you could also be pulling too early. I dry in a 65/50 room, i find it extremely important to keep clean during the end of the cycle & drying along with trying my best to keep outside air from entering the room.

My bet is you need to de-contaminate, haze rotting in 2 days at 60-65rh is a bit of a giveaway.


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## Seymour Green (Oct 9, 2018)

SPLFreak808 said:


> If your loosing flavor over time you might just have a spore contaminated flowering/drying area, if it taste like crap from the get go you could also be pulling too early. I dry in a 65/50 room, i find it extremely important to keep clean during the end of the cycle & drying along with trying my best to keep outside air from entering the room.
> 
> My bet is you need to de-contaminate, haze rotting in 2 days at 60-65rh is a bit of a giveaway.


Thanks for this. I'll clean my dry area to make sure, but my friend was having the mold issues with the colder temps, my problem is just a lack of flavor i general, and i was drying at 68°f and 53%rh. I dont think I chopped early, as she was flowering 18 weeks from flip. Has kind of a grassy smell except when ground up it smells nice and lemony. Could be the mold thing though, as I did cut a small piece out of a dense bud before I hung to dry. Anyway the help is greatly appreciated.


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## 52darth69 (Oct 11, 2018)

LinguaPeel said:


> Starches n stuff break down faster. Ever been to the south? East coast? There's a reason strains like ECSD are noteworthy from these climates. Because the humidity is high. We still stink up the neighborhood with a zip like the near mythical skunk that the west coast evolved out of existence by replacing weed exudates with beet exudates. Same strains in Colorado or LA can't even stink past the bag they're in, even when grown right.
> 
> Everyone growing hydro wants to control their climate, and preserve the minimal terps that are there and already flashing off. Growing natural/probiotic like we do in the south, the crops been building up huge levels of unconverted substances the entire grow, along with the reinforcements to hold them from flashing, and the humidity must be what makes it obvious why a slow cure between 70-80° (and high humidity) creates dank: increased conversion into desired metabolites through microbial activity.
> 
> ...


Thanks much for the comprehensive reply. I am in soil not hydro. First Grow and simply trying to avoid as many rookie mistakes as possible. Am I reading you correctly when you say you recommend 70 to 80 degrees and "high" humidity? When you say "high", what kind of RH number are we talking here? Do you have to do take extra precautions against mold or rot? Increased airflow? Extra ventilation? Or?..... I live in the pacific northwest so keeping the humidity high isn't a problem. Just looking for a little guidance so I can at least minimize my chances of messing up what appears to be a half decent first effort. Plants are a week from harvest and are currently at 78° and 40% RH

Your expertise is greatly appreciated and any and all tips are most welcome.


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## 5h4vvn (Sep 25, 2020)

Qroniq said:


> Hey guys lots of great info here. Special thanks to Captain Greenbeard for pointing out the obvious, yet all too often overlooked fact that humidity is relative. Delta1+8 I completely agree with everything you stated, well said my friend. it is so easy to misinterpret someones intentions with a post when there is no body language associated with it to guide your reaction. For me that is the worst part of public forums such as these. Anyways I digress.
> 
> I've read this entire thread because I need to improve my drying/curing method. I've learned several things here that I will employ next go round in hopes of better results. It did get me to wondering however if there is a way to maybe wick the jars somehow to let the moisture still escape without having to burp them daily for curing. Or possibly even a filter that only lets air pass one way? Just kind of wondering out loud.
> 
> ...


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## Growin4fun77 (Oct 28, 2022)

Staxxx said:


> Stickies aren't dogma, stop treating them as such. They provide a solid guideline, and that's about it. Every grower's environment is different. Many variables dictate how and for how long the final product should be dried/cured. Any "sticky" that prescribes rigid numbers fails to take these variables into account.
> 
> Also, keep in mind, many personal/hobby growers don't have the luxury of temp/humidity controlled drying rooms etc. So, it is a good idea to leave plants whole (in drier environments) for a nice, slow and even dry.
> 
> And please, don't give me the 'trimming dry is a PITA' spiel. It really isn't...



I love this advice. My feedback would be to review and collect as much feedback as possible and then adjust that to your environment. Sometimes your adjustments will be perfect and other times you’ll end up with issues. Every mistake is a learning opportunity. 

I personally aim for 65%ish and <70deg. Hand the whole plant with all the sugar leaves. Dries in 8-9 days.


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## kenmastazz (Oct 28, 2022)

jungle boys drying room: 60%/60f

the biggest struggle for me is every dehumidifier I used produced a lot of heat so its a balancing act between humidity and heat specially if the room is small.


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## Dreaming1 (Nov 2, 2022)

I harvested some outdoor herb and hung it up. I dropped a branch with a nice top bud. Missed it when I took it all inside. So, it dried outdoors in almost freezing point temps on the ground. I saw it about 3 days later and checked it out. It was brownish and bone crumbling dry. I loaded a bong and gave it a rip. Incredibly smooth. Same from a pipe. Nice mellowed flavor. I was surprised. Is that the best? Obviously not. But, it all worked out fine.


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