# Sentinel climate controller reviews?



## TMB77 (Jul 9, 2008)

Hey all


doing my research on climate controllers, and eventually came upon this one. It's got the temp and humidity control of course, plus a CO2 controller with a CO2 PPM meter in the remote sensor. every other controller seems to have the CO2 meter as a 500 dollar add on, a total rip off if you ask me. 600 bucks for everything in one package seems a good deal.

so, anyone have any experience with these things?

Sentinel CHHC-1 Day/Night Environmental Controller


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## PurfectStorm (Jul 10, 2008)

Yeah i was thinking of purchasing one of these. I don't know if it has an intermatic timer with alot of events, but if it incorporates into this box, i'll for sure buy it for my next cab.


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## TMB77 (Jul 11, 2008)

PurfectStorm said:


> Yeah i was thinking of purchasing one of these. I don't know if it has an intermatic timer with alot of events, but if it incorporates into this box, i'll for sure buy it for my next cab.


I dont believe it does...it controls temp, humid, co2...gotta run lights and hydro stuff separate, but this is perfect for me. getting everything necessary to do these three things cannot seem to be found for less than a grand.


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## milowerx96 (Aug 23, 2009)

Well After looking high and low for info on this co2 controller I decided to try it out. I paid $509 with shipping from eBay. It really seems to be the best deal out there for controlling co2, humidity, and temp with a photo sensor. I'll let you know how it goes.


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## KnowledgeSeeker (Aug 25, 2009)

I just purchased a CHHC-1 as well. I got mine for $450 here: http://www.igrowhydro.com/blog/711/sentinel-chhc-1-coupon/

Keep me posted as too how you like yours and what your setup is and I'll do the same. I have a 10 x 10 room with 4 x 600w lamps. The room is "sealed". I have no intake and no exhaust so the the plants can just marinate in the CO2.


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## noone88 (Aug 25, 2009)

KnowledgeSeeker said:


> I just purchased a CHHC-1 as well. I got mine for $450 here: http://www.igrowhydro.com/blog/711/sentinel-chhc-1-coupon/
> 
> Keep me posted as too how you like yours and what your setup is and I'll do the same. I have a 10 x 10 room with 4 x 600w lamps. The room is "sealed". I have no intake and no exhaust so the the plants can just marinate in the CO2.


The controller is capped at 15amps, which means it cannot control an AC unit (most of them). At most, it can control a dehumidifier, but if you're also using it to control intake/exhaust fans, you might be cutting it too close.

I use separate controllers, the CPPM1 and the EVC-2.


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## keeger123 (Aug 25, 2009)

noone88 said:


> The controller is capped at 15amps, which means it cannot control an AC unit (most of them). At most, it can control a dehumidifier, but if you're also using it to control intake/exhaust fans, you might be cutting it too close.
> 
> I use separate controllers, the CPPM1 and the EVC-2.


i was checkin out the chhc1 some more... the specs say that it runs off of 15 A @ 120 V (from wall). but itself has heavy duty power outlets with 30 A relays. did someone tell you they were having problems powering their equipment or did u just assume it wouldn't work? or did u have 1?


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## KnowledgeSeeker (Aug 25, 2009)

noone88 said:


> The controller is capped at 15amps, which means it cannot control an AC unit (most of them). At most, it can control a dehumidifier, but if you're also using it to control intake/exhaust fans, you might be cutting it too close.


I have a CHHC-1 with a 11,000 BTU AC unit and a CO2 regulator plugged into it. The AC is 12 amps and works fine. 

I do have a Dehumidifier but it is not plugged into the CHHC-1 because it doesn't revert to the last setting when the power is cut off and turned back on (be sure to check that when purchasing AC and Dehumidifer components to be connected to the CHHC-1).


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## Gimme The Spliffff (Aug 25, 2009)

awesome thread.. I was looking for controlers also.. Looking to run an ac,dehumid,c02 i wont mind spending the 600-700 bucks just want the best.. Let me know how u guys make out.. show some pixs too.!!


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## cannibus corps (Aug 25, 2009)

The controlers are good if you need to remove element from the room not good if you need to add elements ie cant keep humidity above 40%


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## cannibus corps (Aug 25, 2009)

i had the same problem with that unit. had to redesign rooms cold air control. I have a the $250 unit sitting on the wall with nothing pluged into it!


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## gwerns nugs (Aug 25, 2009)

cannibus corps said:


> i had the same problem with that unit. had to redesign rooms cold air control. I have a the $250 unit sitting on the wall with nothing pluged into it!



Hey guys great shit.....just got th CHHC-1.....as i saw previously someone said they let their plants marinate in the co2....so i DONT need and air in and out.....IF i use an ac correct? im new to this but im trying to get my equipment dialed in and the last final venting cuts made....I dont wana make unnecessary cuts.....im running co2 as well but a little hazy on the exhausting in and out part...i planned on having my lights vented...durh...but as for my room i have no ac but co2....little help im goin in circles


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## KnowledgeSeeker (Aug 25, 2009)

gwerns nugs said:


> so i DONT need and air in and out.....IF i use an ac correct?


Absolutely correct. Some will argue that plants need fresh air but I disagree. Plants need CO2, oxygen, and air (not necessarily fresh air). As long as you are providing CO2 they generate more oxygen than they use so you're set.



gwerns nugs said:


> but as for my room i have no ac but co2...


Unless you are planning on using flourscents or LED then you will need an AC for a sealed room. Even air cooled MH and HPS generate a considerable amount of heat. AND the AC must be a dual hose type vented outside of the room.


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## gwerns nugs (Aug 26, 2009)

KnowledgeSeeker said:


> Absolutely correct. Some will argue that plants need fresh air but I disagree. Plants need CO2, oxygen, and air (not necessarily fresh air). As long as you are providing CO2 they generate more oxygen than they use so you're set.
> 
> 
> 
> Unless you are planning on using flourscents or LED then you will need an AC for a sealed room. Even air cooled MH and HPS generate a considerable amount of heat. AND the AC must be a dual hose type vented outside of the room.



Thank you so much bro!


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## keeger123 (Aug 26, 2009)

KnowledgeSeeker said:


> Absolutely correct. Some will argue that plants need fresh air but I disagree. Plants need CO2, oxygen, and air (not necessarily fresh air). As long as you are providing CO2 they generate more oxygen than they use so you're set.
> 
> Unless you are planning on using flourscents or LED then you will need an AC for a sealed room. Even air cooled MH and HPS generate a considerable amount of heat. AND the AC must be a dual hose type vented outside of the room.


i completely disagree with no exhaust... with a portable a/c unit, u can get away with no intake, but the air that it exchanges and kicks out will STINK! unless u live in the wild, that might not be the best idea. besides, no or little exhaust is extremely unhealthy 4 plants, no matter the quantity of co2 injected. and if u inject too much co2, plants will burn (ppm meter is a must).

the only really safe way to do co2 is to either have a co2 injection/exhaust schedual with 15 or 20 min of injection with exhaust off, then 1 or 2 hours of no injection and constant exhaust, repeat the cycle while lights are on, no injection and full exhaust while they're off... or get an environmental controller that coordinates injection and exhaust 4 u....


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## KnowledgeSeeker (Aug 26, 2009)

keeger123 said:


> i completely disagree with no exhaust... with a portable a/c unit, u can get away with no intake, but the air that it exchanges and kicks out will STINK!


With a sealed room you still have a CAN filter with a high CFM fan that scrubs the air in the room which removes all of the smell.



keeger123 said:


> besides, no or little exhaust is extremely unhealthy 4 plants, no matter the quantity of co2 injected.


Totally false. As i said before, plants need CO2, oxygen, and air. You provide the CO2 and they use the oxygen to produce more oxygen. There's a good article that explains it in more detail here: http://hydroponicsfriend.com/archives/39 I'm curious, what do think is in "fresh" air that you wouldn't have in a sealed room?



keeger123 said:


> and if u inject too much co2, plants will burn (ppm meter is a must).


No, plants will not burn from too much CO2. You can flood a room with 10,000 PPM to kill spider mites and plants will do just fine.



keeger123 said:


> (ppm meter is a must).


I do agree that a PPM meter is a requirement for proper CO2 supplementation.



keeger123 said:


> the only really safe way to do co2 is to either have a co2 injection/exhaust schedual with 15 or 20 min of injection with exhaust off, then 1 or 2 hours of no injection and constant exhaust, repeat the cycle while lights are on,


If you are paying for CO2 why would you want to suck it all out of the room? Especially if there's no good reason to do so.



keeger123 said:


> no injection and full exhaust while they're off...


I totally agree. Plants use CO2 during photosynthesis which cannot take place when the lights are off.


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## Hulk Nugs (Aug 26, 2009)

Grrrr fuck it i have tried five times now and keep fucking up before i finish my post and have to start all over agian so this is the really short version grrrrr



Test, never tried this before.... permalink..... hope that works

Then theres his nice ass mother board check that out
https://www.rollitup.org/members/sog-albums-growlab-290-picture64415-cimg4119.html

I really like http://www.autogrow.com/1_intelliclimate/intelliclimate.html, http://www.amhydro.com/index.php/Grower-Gear/IntelliClimate.html, not sure it does every thing by the looks of his mother board it takes a little more.

 nice thread


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## keeger123 (Aug 26, 2009)

KnowledgeSeeker said:


> With a sealed room you still have a CAN filter with a high CFM fan that scrubs the air in the room which removes all of the smell.
> 
> Totally false. As i said before, plants need CO2, oxygen, and air. You provide the CO2 and they use the oxygen to produce more oxygen. There's a good article that explains it in more detail here: http://hydroponicsfriend.com/archives/39 I'm curious, what do think is in "fresh" air that you wouldn't have in a sealed room?
> 
> ...


]

itll somewhat remove stink. guarentee u would still be able to smell it in exhausted air though. it'll be half scrubbed air and half stinky air. 

fresh air is air that hasn't become concentrated with water vapor and other unwanted byproducts exchanged during the photosythensis process that inhibits mold and mildew growth (oxygen is just the major product chief). a scrubber will not remove this and an a/c unit doesnt have sufficient exhaust to effectively reduce this.

yes, too much co2 will burn. i learned that in organic chemistry. where did u learn it?? even ur gay little article says too much co2 is a bad thing....

ok, first u fill the room up with co2 for 20 or so minutes, then exhuast with co2 off for an hour or so. u honestly believe that they need a constant co2 boost with no air exchange??? marijuana plants can not physically consume co2 in an environment higher than 1700ppm, so anymore never gets used. THAT's a waste... do what the hell u want, my plants will be twice the quality, and quantity


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## KnowledgeSeeker (Aug 26, 2009)

keeger123 said:


> itll somewhat remove stink. guarentee u would still be able to smell it in exhausted air though


It will remove the same amount of odor whether you are exhausting outside or inside. A proper sized CAN and fan will remove ALL of the odor. But in a sealed room you are not exhausting outside of the room. period.



keeger123 said:


> fresh air is air that hasn't become concentrated with water vapor and other unwanted byproducts exchanged during the photosythensis process that inhibits mold and mildew growth (oxygen is just the major product chief). a scrubber will not remove this and an a/c unit doesnt have sufficient exhaust to effectively reduce this.


Which is exactly why we use dehumidifiers.



keeger123 said:


> yes, too much co2 will burn. i learned that in organic chemistry. where did u learn it?? even ur gay little article says too much co2 is a bad thing..


Yes, 100% CO2 will kill you and the plants. I said up to 10,000 PPM would not kill a plant NOT that you couldn't kill a plant with CO2. It is a bit hard to do with 20lb tank and a leaky room, but still be careful, it could happen.



keeger123 said:


> u honestly believe that they need a constant co2 boost with no air exchange???


1500 PPM is not filling a room with CO2 but yes you want to maintain a constant 1500 PPM. Which is exactly what the CHHC-1 does. You set it to 1500 PPM and connect your regulator and it measures and makes sure the room is always at 1500 PPM.



keeger123 said:


> marijuana plants can not physically consume co2 in an environment higher than 1700ppm, so anymore never gets used. THAT's a waste...


How much CO2 they can use depends on their other limiting factors such as light, water, and nutrients. Generally around 1500 PPM should be enough.



keeger123 said:


> do what the hell u want, my plants will be twice the quality, and quantity


Thank you, I will. I hope you have a great harvest. 

Now, let's keep this thread about the CHHC-1 and leave the sealed room debate for another thread.


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## keeger123 (Aug 27, 2009)

KnowledgeSeeker said:


> It will remove the same amount of odor whether you are exhausting outside or inside. A proper sized CAN and fan will remove ALL of the odor. But in a sealed room you are not exhausting outside of the room. period.
> 
> Which is exactly why we use dehumidifiers.
> 
> ...


the room will continously produce more stink, so unless ur srubber is right beside the a/c, then it will be mixed air and it will have a smell. its called common sence...

my room is completely sealed with poly and silicon, AND there are ducting vents in and out of my room for intake/exhuast. i think we have different ideas about what is ment by a sealed room, i.e. the idea isn't to eliminate the exhaust.... my intake and exhaust are on timers and they will coordinate with co2 injection so the plants have the best of both worlds.

ok, since it's obvious you dont know anything about co2, i'll be nice and post a couple little links to save ur life...

http://www.greenmanspage.com/guides/advanced.html

http://dhs.wisconsin.gov/eh/chemfs/fs/CarbonDioxide.htm

co2 level in atmosphere is about 300ppm, 2000ppm WILL BURN PLANTS. 5000 ppm WILL KILL PLANTS and prolonged exposure to this environment will give humans BRAIN DAMAGE. but prolonged exposure to an environment with higher amounts of co2 than 5000ppm can KILL HUMANS. 10000ppm??? thats only 0.01% concentration of co2 in the air but CAN and WILL KILL.... now i'm curious.... do you even understand how ppm is measured?? u said co2 is harmful to plants and humans when the air is almost 100% co2!! come on now... that's complete nonsense. brain up, free ur mind, and quit regurgitating what ideas u formed in ur head... ur advise could kill someone! co2 can be extremely dangerous if low enough levels aren't maintained. This is also why people exhaust their rooms. the articles i just found 4 u even talk about need for proper exhaust and air circulation...

so 1500ppm is more than enough co2 in the room

the reason i was drawn to the chhc1 in the first place is the fact that u plug ur exhaust fan into 1 receprical, and co2 device into another, and the chhc1 automatically kicks one in while killing the other. so i'm pretty sure the room's ment to be exhausted

this must be ur first grow with co2, otherwise u'd be a vegetable or dead.........

keep seeking knowledge....

oh, and i wasnt lookin 4 ur approval or disagrements with my posts. i know i'm right, and all ur responses have either been stating the obvious or completely out to lunch... i'm pretty sure ur the last guy here qualified to give advise on co2 since ur page says this is the first time u've grown, at least at this level.... 

p.s. don't be such a smart ass next time and i'll try not to make u look like too big of a dumb ass, are rooms arent too different, with exhaust, i think u'd have a great setup


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## milowerx96 (Aug 27, 2009)

damn 450 hu?


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## KnowledgeSeeker (Aug 27, 2009)

keeger123 said:


> the air is almost 100% co2!!


Really. Then why aren't we all dead?

If you want to start another thread about CO2 then please do so otherwise let's keep this one about the CHHC-1.


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## milowerx96 (Aug 27, 2009)

Ok just got it yesterday. First impression is what a nifty gadget! It does seem a little light weight in the construction. I would like to see the case made a little sturdier. But it does have a 3 year warenty so what ever. Programing seems simple. find the button for the function you want (there all on the front 15 of em) and set up or down. Stats are as follows. Power input volts 100~265 volts, Cirtcit breaker rating 15 A/ 240 v~, Output receptical rating 15 a/ 120 v~/10 A 240~, remote sensor cable length 16 feet, min max operating temp 32-120, min max operating humidity 0-99 rh, temp accuracy 1.8 f, Humidity measurment range 10 - 95%, humidity accuracy +/- 3%, Light sensor sensitivity Adjustable, c02 accuraacy +/- 75 ppm, co2 measurment range 0-2500 ppm, co2 sensor warm up time less than 10 min, computer interface (optional rs 232 / 9-pim D sub, weight / dimentions 8" x 6.5" x 3.5" 5lbs. Works fine so far.


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## keeger123 (Aug 29, 2009)

KnowledgeSeeker said:


> Really. Then why aren't we all dead?
> 
> If you want to start another thread about CO2 then please do so otherwise let's keep this one about the CHHC-1.


cause no one ever uses those rediculous co2 levels... do u think those links are blowin smoke?? dont believe me then, ur the knowledge seeker, do ur own investigating. guarentee everywhere u look the info will be pretty much the same...


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## KnowledgeSeeker (Aug 29, 2009)

Has anyone noticed a difference in temperature readings between the CHHC-1 and a standard Ecoplus Digital Therm/Hygro? I put them right next to each other for 2 hours and the Ecoplus consistently reads 2-3 degrees lower than the CHHC-1. Any one know what the rated accuracy of the Ecoplus or similar device is? The CHHC-1 manual states that the temp is accurate +/- 1.8 degrees. Seems like for this amount of money we should have gotten something that was accurate within a degree but maybe that's just me being overly critical.


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## milowerx96 (Sep 3, 2009)

YOu need to use power relay switches to run high amperage items like A/C units. This is pretty much standard for this sort of thing.


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## milowerx96 (Sep 3, 2009)

You should really pick up a high amperage relay for the A/C and other high amperage items. You don't need the the same brand they are all pretty much the same. They are cheap and will take the power load off of the controller enabling you to run more devices. My controller is working fine I ordered another one to run my Hydrogen LPG Generator. I have been running mine in a 1800 CU ft room with the controller set in fuzzy mode at 1350. It's never more than 200 ppm off unless it's building back up after a ventilation cycle.


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## milowerx96 (Sep 3, 2009)

To power high amperage items with any of these controllers you should use a high amperage relay. its just a plug with a separate power distribution box. it has a piggy back plug and you plug you AC or what ever into the back of the piggy back plug and plug it in to the wall. you plug the other end into the controller. this keeps the draw off of the controller and on the relay.


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## milowerx96 (Sep 3, 2009)

oops sorry about the multiple posts i thought i was on another thread. still kinda new to the forum. forgive me


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## KnowledgeSeeker (Sep 16, 2009)

milowerx96 said:


> To power high amperage items with any of these controllers you should use a high amperage relay. its just a plug with a separate power distribution box. it has a piggy back plug and you plug you AC or what ever into the back of the piggy back plug and plug it in to the wall. you plug the other end into the controller. this keeps the draw off of the controller and on the relay.


How much do they cost? Can you get them at any hardware store (Home Depot, etc.?)


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## milowerx96 (Sep 17, 2009)

They are about $100 bucks at this web site but I know you can find them cheaper.I am sure you could make one also if you were Remotely crafty. You don't need to but the same brand any brand will do. http://www.hydroponics-garden.com/xcat459.html it's the power expaneder I would have found a better deal to link but it is like 5 am here now and I just woke up.


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## KnowledgeSeeker (Sep 17, 2009)

milowerx96 said:


> They are about $100 bucks at this web site but I know you can find them cheaper.I am sure you could make one also if you were Remotely crafty. You don't need to but the same brand any brand will do. http://www.hydroponics-garden.com/xcat459.html it's the power expaneder I would have found a better deal to link but it is like 5 am here now and I just woke up.


LOL. 5 am is EARLY! Thanks milowerx. I will shop around and see what i can find.


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## KnowledgeSeeker (Sep 28, 2009)

My grow room is 10x10x8. I have a 50lb CO2. I've been running my an average of about 1250 ppm. Running at that ppm my CO2 tank lasted about 3 weeks. Seems kind of short for a 50 lb tank but since it's my first grow I have no idea. There are some holes and things that I need to fill and patch but how much CO2 are you using? How large is your room? What ppm are you running? How big is your tank? How long does it last?


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## KnowledgeSeeker (Nov 20, 2009)

It seemed kind of cold in my room so i put an Ecoplus therm/hygro in the room and put the remote sensor right next to the CHHC-1 sensor and most of the time they are within a few degrees of each other but I've noticed at times they differ a lot (like 6 or 7 degrees difference.) Has anyone else tried comparing readings from other therm/hygro devices to the CHHC-1? I attached pictures from two different times when they varied a lot.


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## milowerx96 (Nov 21, 2009)

I gotta give that a try and let you know. the Mmanual sez 1.8 F That seems like alot more.



KnowledgeSeeker said:


> It seemed kind of cold in my room so i put an Ecoplus therm/hygro in the room and put the remote sensor right next to the CHHC-1 sensor and most of the time they are within a few degrees of each other but I've noticed at times they differ a lot (like 6 or 7 degrees difference.) Has anyone else tried comparing readings from other therm/hygro devices to the CHHC-1? I attached pictures from two different times when they varied a lot.


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## KnowledgeSeeker (Nov 21, 2009)

milowerx96 said:


> I gotta give that a try and let you know. the Mmanual sez 1.8 F That seems like alot more.


Yah, and the tech specs for the ecoplus say temp accuracy is 0.1 degrees Celsius...

The reason it's a big deal for me right now is that I am fighting a case of downy/powdery mildew. Totally sucks. So i've sprayed them down with mildew cure but the environmental parameters to avoid mildew are temps above 76F, RH less than 45%, and no excess nitrogen. So I've got to make sure that my temps are accurate.

If you do get a chance to test yours out that would be keen. I may just have a CHHC-1 that isn't calibrated correctly. The temp readings seem to differ more at lower temps too...


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## KnowledgeSeeker (Jan 8, 2010)

In case anyone is interested I found some software that will capture readings from the CHHC-1 and exports the data to an Excel spreadsheet. The software install is in Chinese or Japanese but just press the "next" button and it installs fine on Windows XP. The program itself is in English. http://drop.io/whl70rf/


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## Bob Smith (Jan 8, 2010)

keeger123 said:


> the room will continously produce more stink, so unless ur srubber is right beside the a/c, then it will be mixed air and it will have a smell. its called common sence...
> 
> my room is completely sealed with poly and silicon, AND there are ducting vents in and out of my room for intake/exhuast. i think we have different ideas about what is ment by a sealed room, i.e. the idea isn't to eliminate the exhaust.... my intake and exhaust are on timers and they will coordinate with co2 injection so the plants have the best of both worlds.
> 
> ...


The only thing worse then a moron is a moron who acts like an asshole.

KnowledgeSeeker is correct in everything s/he said, and I can vouch for that because I also run a sealed room (have exhaust hooked up, but never use it).

And I've run my CO2 up above 5000PPMs to kill bugs and my plants (and I) somehow survived (with no adverse effects).

But to the point of the thread, I have a CHHC-1 and it works like a charm - best investment I've made in my grow, IMO.

Check out the link in my signature ("New Setup") to see it in action, if you're interested.


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## johndoe12345678 (Jan 8, 2010)

KnowledgeSeeker said:


> In case anyone is interested I found some software that will capture readings from the CHHC-1 and exports the data to an Excel spreadsheet. The software install is in Chinese or Japanese but just press the "next" button and it installs fine on Windows XP. The program itself is in English. http://drop.io/whl70rf/


 do i have to un rar it or did u just give me a virus??


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## Bob Smith (Jan 11, 2010)

johndoe12345678 said:


> do i have to un rar it or did u just give me a virus??


I'm not sure what "un rar" it means, but that file looked a little shady to me, so I held off on downloading it - has anyone done that successfully, and also what cord is needed to download info from the Sentinel?

Would I have one lying around, or do I need to run out to Best Buy or something?


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## KnowledgeSeeker (Jan 11, 2010)

johndoe12345678 said:


> do i have to un rar it or did u just give me a virus??


Yes, you have to decompress it using a archive utility like WinRAR or WinZip. http://www.rarlab.com/download.htm


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## KnowledgeSeeker (Jan 11, 2010)

Bob Smith said:


> I'm not sure what "un rar" it means, but that file looked a little shady to me, so I held off on downloading it - has anyone done that successfully, and also what cord is needed to download info from the Sentinel?
> 
> Would I have one lying around, or do I need to run out to Best Buy or something?


The required cable is an RS232 cable. You probably wouldn't have on lying around. The end of it looks like a VGA monitor cable but it is probably different. I bought mine at a local computer store. It looks like this: http://www.cablestogo.com/product.asp?cat_id=919&sku=25216 
Both ends are female because the CHHC-1 is male and my computer is also male.


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## KnowledgeSeeker (Jan 11, 2010)

Bob Smith said:


> KnowledgeSeeker is correct in everything s/he said, and I can vouch for that because I also run a sealed room (have exhaust hooked up, but never use it).
> 
> And I've run my CO2 up above 5000PPMs to kill bugs and my plants (and I) somehow survived (with no adverse effects).


Thanks for the info and the support Bob. I've learned not to argue with anyone on RIU. If they are even remotely intelligent they will do the research and/or the testing to verify info for themselves.

P.S. "He" would be the correct pronoun.


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## Bob Smith (Jan 11, 2010)

KnowledgeSeeker said:


> Thanks for the info and the support Bob. I've learned not to argue with anyone on RIU. If they are even remotely intelligent they will do the research and/or the testing to verify info for themselves.
> 
> P.S. "He" would be the correct pronoun.


Gotcha regarding the pronoun, just don't like to assume anything 

And mucho thanks for the info regarding the program and the cable - have you tried it yet, and if so, what were your impressions?

How far back does the data go, any idea?

It'd be sick if I plugged it in there and got data all the way back to when I started using it (early November), but that's probably a little too much to ask for.

EDIT: tried to give you some rep but it said I must spread it around first, my bads........


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## johndoe12345678 (Jan 11, 2010)

KnowledgeSeeker said:


> Yes, you have to decompress it using a archive utility like WinRAR or WinZip. http://www.rarlab.com/download.htm


 sweet im downloading now hope it works, thanks for the info knowledge..


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## johndoe12345678 (Jan 11, 2010)

KnowledgeSeeker said:


> The required cable is an RS232 cable. You probably wouldn't have on lying around. The end of it looks like a VGA monitor cable but it is probably different. I bought mine at a local computer store. It looks like this: http://www.cablestogo.com/product.asp?cat_id=919&sku=25216
> Both ends are female because the CHHC-1 is male and my computer is also male.


 i downloaded the software, what next do i just get the cord plug it in to my labtop and chhc-2 then extract files?? when i open up software it gives me a option screen with a bunch of tools to extract files i do i have to install Download .NET Framework 3.5 SP1?


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## Bob Smith (Jan 12, 2010)

johndoe12345678 said:


> i downloaded the software, what next do i just get the cord plug it in to my labtop and chhc-2 then extract files?? when i open up software it gives me a option screen with a bunch of tools to extract files i do i have to install Download .NET Framework 3.5 SP1?


Bump.............Knowledge Seeker? You around? 

Would love to hear the answer to this.......


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## smokingrubber (Jan 12, 2010)

RAR files are compressed files just like ZIP files. You can uncompress them using WinRAR. I use it all the time. http://download.cnet.com/WinRAR-32-bit/3000-2250_4-10007677.html

I downloaded the file and scanned it. No virus.


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## Bob Smith (Jan 12, 2010)

smokingrubber said:


> RAR files are compressed files just like ZIP files. You can uncompress them using WinRAR. I use it all the time. http://download.cnet.com/WinRAR-32-bit/3000-2250_4-10007677.html
> 
> I downloaded the file and scanned it. No virus.


Sick 

Now I just need to head over to Best Buy for one of those cables............


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## smokingrubber (Jan 12, 2010)

Please post a screen-shot of the data screen, anyone. I would like to see what kind of input/output the Sentinal is capable of. Is the data link useful for "programming" your environment or is it simply a data dump of it's internal memory? Thanks.

I'm planning my friend's new grow for him and I think we're going to build a closed loop system. Does anyone have a good link to a DIY closed loop system? Can you please list ALL of the required holes in the room? ie. 

8" primary exhaust
6" primary intake
4" AC IN
4" AC OUT

yadayada. That may be all that's required, but that's why I'm asking. Even though I may not NEED a primary exhaust . . . I may want to be able to hit a button and flush the fukr on command? Our room is going to be a double-car garage with a window in the back. It's a new house so poking holes in the stucco would be frowned upon 

Thanks.


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## Bob Smith (Jan 12, 2010)

I'll post the actual Excel file, if we're able to do that.

Pretty sure it just spits out historical info, though.


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## KnowledgeSeeker (Jan 13, 2010)

smokingrubber said:


> Please post a screen-shot of the data screen, anyone. I would like to see what kind of input/output the Sentinal is capable of. Is the data link useful for "programming" your environment or is it simply a data dump of it's internal memory? Thanks.


Along with the data dump you can also set parameters like temp and PPM. It's very rudimentary at this point and the autosave feature doesn't work but hopefully it'll get better. Attached is a screen shot of the software and the data output.

Since we can get data on the computer hopefully we can get some programming that will allow us to setup email alerts and perhaps remote control.


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## KnowledgeSeeker (Jan 13, 2010)

Bob Smith said:


> I'll post the actual Excel file, if we're able to do that.
> 
> Pretty sure it just spits out historical info, though.


The CTL tab on the upper right will allow you to set a parameter (though I haven't tried it to be honest.)


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## Bob Smith (Jan 13, 2010)

KnowledgeSeeker said:


> Along with the data dump you can also set parameters like temp and PPM. It's very rudimentary at this point and the autosave feature doesn't work but hopefully it'll get better. Attached is a screen shot.
> 
> Since we can get data on the computer hopefully we can get some programming that will allow us to setup email alerts and perhaps remote control.


Knowledge, how far back does that data go? Any idea?

Also, you checking your journal anymore? Wanted to post a question about sealed rooms and ACs but wasn't sure if you were still checking.


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## Bob Smith (Jan 13, 2010)

KnowledgeSeeker said:


> The CTL tab on the upper right will allow you to set a parameter (though I haven't tried it to be honest.)


Interesting...........I'm still gonna program the old fashioned way, but email alerts sound cool


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## KnowledgeSeeker (Jan 13, 2010)

Bob Smith said:


> How far back does the data go, any idea?
> 
> It'd be sick if I plugged it in there and got data all the way back to when I started using it (early November), but that's probably a little too much to ask for.


The data is live only so it starts recording when you start the software. The autosave works only the first time and then craps out which also sucks. Hopefully we'll get a working version soon.



Bob Smith said:


> EDIT: tried to give you some rep but it said I must spread it around first, my bads........


No worries. Thx for thinkin of it!


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## Bob Smith (Jan 13, 2010)

KnowledgeSeeker said:


> The data is live only so it starts recording when you start the software. The autosave works only the first time and then craps out which also sucks. Hopefully we'll get a working version soon.
> 
> 
> 
> No worries. Thx for thinkin of it!


So in order to have any meaningful amount of data, you'd basically have to leave the computer connected to it 24/7? I.e., a dedicated computer for it?


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## KnowledgeSeeker (Jan 13, 2010)

Bob Smith said:


> Also, you checking your journal anymore? Wanted to post a question about sealed rooms and ACs but wasn't sure if you were still checking.


I haven't been checkin it but I will if you post something


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## KnowledgeSeeker (Jan 13, 2010)

Bob Smith said:


> So in order to have any meaningful amount of data, you'd basically have to leave the computer connected to it 24/7? I.e., a dedicated computer for it?


Yes. My computer is always on anyway and my home office is right next to my grow room so i have a 25' cable that connects.


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## Bob Smith (Jan 13, 2010)

KnowledgeSeeker said:


> Yes. My computer is always on anyway and my home office is right next to my grow room so i have a 25' cable that connects.


Gotcha, thanks - BTW, posted a question in your journal


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## FileError404 (Jan 14, 2010)

Hey guys!

Just got my CHHC-1. I put the sensor in the middle of the room and switched it on. The PPm level says 776. That seems very high but I could be wrong. What's the "normal" PPm in a closed room? ( I didn't breath in the room)

Did you calibrate the unit before using or used it straight out of the box? 

Thanks a lot!


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## KnowledgeSeeker (Jan 15, 2010)

FileError404 said:


> Hey guys!
> 
> Just got my CHHC-1. I put the sensor in the middle of the room and switched it on. The PPm level says 776. That seems very high but I could be wrong. What's the "normal" PPm in a closed room? ( I didn't breath in the room)
> 
> ...


I did calibrate mine before using it. 776 for a closed room does seem high. I would calibrate and test again.


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## Bob Smith (Jan 15, 2010)

KnowledgeSeeker said:


> I did calibrate mine before using it. 776 for a closed room does seem high. I would calibrate and test again.


I think that they come calibrated outta the box, no?

I turned mine on and it register ~350, which was close enough for me - haven't futzed with it since.


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## FileError404 (Jan 16, 2010)

Calibrated it on my balcony. Set my base level at 420 since I live on a high traffic street. Running low 500s now in the room which should be normal for a polyed-up room.  

Thanks guys!


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## nuggz (Jan 18, 2010)

Anybody running this with a lumatek ballast? If so have you had any problems with the CHHC-1 since the instructions say place no less than an 8 foot minimum when running near a digital ballast.


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## Solar Deity (Jan 27, 2010)

nuggz said:


> Anybody running this with a lumatek ballast? If so have you had any problems with the CHHC-1 since the instructions say place no less than an 8 foot minimum when running near a digital ballast.


I'm running 4 Sentinel controllers with 2 lumatek 600w ballasts. A CHHC-1, an EVC-2, a UTC-1 and a MDT-1. All have temperature probes, which is what I've found screws up when too close to the ballasts. The EVC-2 is the only one I've had problems with. The CHHC-1 and MDT-1 are two feet from the ballasts with no issues. The EVC-2 was giving me max temps readings of 167, so I moved it farther away (7+ ft) from the ballasts. It was better, but still would report max temp at 167 every once in a while. The problem was solved permenantly after moving the EVC-2 to its own 15 amp service. Haven't had a problem since. I've _never_ had an issue with any of the other controllers, and like stated before, 2 of them are 2 feet away from the Lumateks.


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## sdkid (Apr 16, 2010)

How would you run the CHHC-1 if you only want the co2 injected when the light is on on flowering cycles which is 12/12? As someone mentioned, am i really better off running a CPPM and a EVC-2 so i dont overload the unit? I am going to have a mini split ac in the room so i dont waste any of the co2. I am sure mini-split will run a good amount of amps which will limit me from pluggin in a dehumi or other stuff.


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## FileError404 (Apr 16, 2010)

Depends on your split unit. My A/C unit can't be used on the CHHC1 as it resets itself on power down. I just run it on it's own auto settings and it corresponds with the Sentinel within one degree.


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## KnowledgeSeeker (Apr 16, 2010)

sdkid said:


> How would you run the CHHC-1 if you only want the co2 injected when the light is on on flowering cycles which is 12/12? As someone mentioned, am i really better off running a CPPM and a EVC-2 so i dont overload the unit? I am going to have a mini split ac in the room so i dont waste any of the co2. I am sure mini-split will run a good amount of amps which will limit me from pluggin in a dehumi or other stuff.


It really depends on the amps of the mini split and the dehu. I have a 14K btu dual hose portable AC which runs around 12 amps, a 10" max fan, a sentinel CO2 regulator, and a 8" vortex fan plugged into my CHHC-1 and it handles all of those just fine. The CHHC has a light sensor so CO2 is only injected when the lights are on.


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## PuffBomber (Apr 19, 2010)

I've built applications to read write over RS232 (serial cable) and if someone would like to buy me a CHHC1 I'd be happy to write everyone a custom app to record and track readings, send email/sms notifications if parameters get out of whack, and set options on the unit. I just need a unit to write it against.


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## DrNugs (May 13, 2010)

Solar Deity said:


> I'm running 4 Sentinel controllers with 2 lumatek 600w ballasts. A CHHC-1, an EVC-2, a UTC-1 and a MDT-1. All have temperature probes, which is what I've found screws up when too close to the ballasts. The EVC-2 is the only one I've had problems with. The CHHC-1 and MDT-1 are two feet from the ballasts with no issues. The EVC-2 was giving me max temps readings of 167, so I moved it farther away (7+ ft) from the ballasts. It was better, but still would report max temp at 167 every once in a while. The problem was solved permenantly after moving the EVC-2 to its own 15 amp service. Haven't had a problem since. I've _never_ had an issue with any of the other controllers, and like stated before, 2 of them are 2 feet away from the Lumateks.


Ive been having this issue with the evc-2 it has recorded 167 and 99 rh, if I turn if off and back on its usually ok. I dont have any digital ballasts only remote, but it is kind of close to them. Also it is not on a dedicated circuit. I love the controler but just want to iron out this issue.


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## john hunt (Jan 19, 2011)

I was hoping to get that software for the chhc-1, but it looks like the url is no longer active. Does anyone know another site to grab it at. Or can anyone post a copy of thier's? I've been wanting to use my computer for this for a while but it's hard to locate. Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated.


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## mihjaro (Jan 22, 2011)

I like the Sentinel EVC-2 and have only one gripe. The remote sensor should have the photocell. I can't have the controller outside of the environment.


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## gabb (Feb 4, 2011)

mihjaro said:


> I like the Sentinel EVC-2 and have only one gripe. The remote sensor should have the photocell. I can't have the controller outside of the environment.


Thats my gripe too.

Also, its very likely that the ecoplus therm has little if no bearing on reality. All of these small them/hygrometers vary widely from unit to unit. 
I have very little evidence or faith, that they can stick within 5 degrees, and 10% of the actual conditions. 
They "feel" and look so accurate....but the instrument/elements are junk/crap.


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## gabb (Feb 4, 2011)

I am new here and new to the thread.
Not sure if it is old news to you guys, but i use an extremely handy little remote-monitor called the TX60U, that wirelessly feeds temps, and humidity readings at pre-determined intervals to a webpage on their server. You can set up alerts on both text and email for min. and max humidity. All of it is very easy to download to excel, and view graphically!!
40-ish dollar range
http://www.weatherdirect.com/temperaturesensor.aspx


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## gabb (Feb 4, 2011)

gabb said:


> I am new here and new to the thread.
> Not sure if it is old news to you guys, but i use an extremely handy little remote-monitor called the TX60U, that wirelessly feeds temps, and humidity readings at pre-determined intervals to a webpage on their server. You can set up alerts on both text and email for min. and max humidity. All of it is very easy to download to excel, and view graphically!!
> 40-ish dollar range
> http://www.weatherdirect.com/temperaturesensor.aspx


of course if you have the Sentinel...you are probably past the need for the tx60, but it is still a very handy little monitor!


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## LionsRoor (Feb 7, 2011)

gabb said:


> of course if you have the Sentinel...you are probably past the need for the tx60, but it is still a very handy little monitor!


I use both! The CHHC-1 is the best controller out there. I use a similar Weather station with 3 wireless sensors. One in each tent, and one outside at my intake ports (to see what my temp differential is from outside). Currently, I am using it to control my intake/exhaust fans based on temp/humidity. The CO2 function works great too. I have used it with both a generator (Hydrogen), and with a tank and solenoid in fuzzy logic mode. This is a really flexible controller. NOTE: Sentinel (and other companies) make a relay to kick on larger devices with the CHHC-1. Sentinel calls these relays 'power expanders', and they make both a 110 and 220 versions. They have a trigger cable you plug into the CHHC-1, and another cable you plug into the outlet. I used to run a sealed zone in this room with AC. The AC was on a dedicated circuit, but controlled by the CHHC-1 using a Sentinel PXM-1 relay.

_I like Sentinel controllers. This CHHC-1 (v.1) has provided 3 years of excellent service.






Sensory overload! This is a new zone, so I am using several sensors while I monitor and dial in the environment.






...when I get older and stop making sense.






_


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## mihjaro (Feb 11, 2011)

mihjaro said:


> I like the Sentinel EVC-2 and have only one gripe. The remote sensor should have the photocell. I can't have the controller outside of the environment.


The CHHC-4 has a remote probe for light, temp, CO2 and humidity. That should have been my purchase.

The Sentinel website.... took me forever to find through all of the google links. They have the product documentation for the whole line in PDF.

http://grow-gps.com/


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## EnoughTimeWasted (Feb 24, 2011)

Hello Everyone! I'm new to RIU (first post). I'm glad this thread is revived and still around. Mucho respect to Knowledge Seeker and Bob Smith for their maturity (in the face of ________ ) and most excellent information. Before ever reading this post i called the online shop I buy stuff from (just putting together a "semi-sealed" room using tents and a portable 2 hose a/c) and asked who made the best environmental controllers... SENTINEL HANDS DOWN I was told. Gave them a call and got a call back from Russ in their tech support. All I can say is I know I will be using a Sentinel... I'm just trying to figure out how to most efficiently use the space.

LionsRoor - I notice in your pic that you have a couple of Speedsters mounted next to the CHHC-1. Are they for air-cooled hoods? If not, what?

Mihjaro - Why can't you have the controller in your environment? I felt the same due to the red LED display interrupting the dark cycle, but was assured by Russ that it has no ill effects. I also felt that the photo cell on the unit wouldn't know day from night if mounted outside the tent. The remote probe on the CHHC-4 solves that I guess. When using the remote probe, is the photocell on the main unit defeated???

Thanks all and let's keep this useful thread going. It sure helped me within the last two days since finding it.

ETW


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## LionsRoor (Feb 24, 2011)

EnoughTimeWasted said:


> LionsRoor - I notice in your pic that you have a couple of Speedsters mounted next to the CHHC-1. Are they for air-cooled hoods? If not, what?


One is for the speed of the intake fan, and one is for the speed of the exhaust fan. This gives me the ability to not only match my negative and positive pressures within the tents, but it lets me control the amount of air I am exchanging (CFM's). Currently, the weather is cool at night outside, when the lights are on in the tent. I am running the ventilation system at about 70% (and yes, it goes to 11!) haha



> Mihjaro - Why can't you have the controller in your environment? I felt the same due to the red LED display interrupting the dark cycle, but was assured by Russ that it has no ill effects. I also felt that the photo cell on the unit wouldn't know day from night if mounted outside the tent. The remote probe on the CHHC-4 solves that I guess. When using the remote probe, is the photocell on the main unit defeated???


There is no photo cell on the base unit - just on the probe of the CHHC. I used to run my CHHC in my zone - without any ill effects... but after a time, I did add a little piece of panda film taped at the top and draped over the display to defeat the light. Call me superstitious or whatever -- but once your eyes adjust to the light put out by the CHHC, things are quite illuminating! It's bright!


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## Calrt (Dec 30, 2011)

Are these controllers still holding up?


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## donutpunched (Dec 30, 2011)

I have one and I did have problems powering equipment.... not good when you have a sealed room you dont check every day and the Co2 is not running... my dehu was tripping the circuit so I made a contactor that plugs into the unit and the dehu plugs into a seperate outlet... so when the contactor trips no load on the sentinel... is working fine now...


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## Cmart (Jan 8, 2012)

Is there a way to have a remote readout from the chhc4 ?I have one in my basement flower room and would like to know whats going on when im upstairs . I know there is a plug for computer , dont know if that will do it or not .


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## AeroTrek (Jun 17, 2012)

KnowledgeSeeker said:


> It seemed kind of cold in my room so i put an Ecoplus therm/hygro in the room and put the remote sensor right next to the CHHC-1 sensor and most of the time they are within a few degrees of each other but I've noticed at times they differ a lot (like 6 or 7 degrees difference.) Has anyone else tried comparing readings from other therm/hygro devices to the CHHC-1? I attached pictures from two different times when they varied a lot.


Do you have Ecoplus therm/hygro at the remote sensor location?


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## rocknratm (Jun 18, 2012)

AeroTrek said:


> Do you have Ecoplus therm/hygro at the remote sensor location?


Knowledge, I have compared it to a $10 remote sensor from menards. They are off a few degrees, usually 2-3.


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