# Hydroponic Chillers



## gvega187 (May 11, 2008)

hello,

I am finally considering the purchase of an hydroponic chiller for my res. Temperatures rarely exceed 70, but I have to be sure....Algae is my arch nemesis. Does anyone have a favorite brand or type? Yes I know polar bear chillers work really good...they also cost twice the amount of others and appear to have a monopoly in the hydro market.

Are aquarium chillers any different? I am loooking at Coralife chillers, Jbj and sealine. Any thoughts? I plan to go for about a 1/10th hp size to save on electricity while providing a 20 degree temp drop.


----------



## Earl (May 11, 2008)

I got mine on ebay.

.


----------



## gvega187 (May 12, 2008)

kickass earl, I was hoping you would check this thread out. I think I remember you having one of the more expensive 1/4 or 1/2 hp chillers. Do you think 1/10 hp is adequate for a 40-50 gallon res? I only need cooling power of about 15-20 degrees.


----------



## Earl (May 12, 2008)

I have a 1/4 hp Polar.

I only have a 20gl rez.

After I insulated my rez,
the chiller was much more efficient.

I am going to move the rez and the chiller 
into their own space 
to further isolate them from the heat.

The chiller puts out heat like an airconditioner.

I am going to move my chiller, 
and then build a wall 
to channel the heat away from the rez, 
which I am also going to isolate from the grow room, 
to make everything more energy efficient.

I think you could buy a cheap window unit 
and duct it into your rez,
and that would lower the temp 
just by blowing cold air 
over the surface of your nute solution.









I can get used 5000btu window units 
for $50-75 in my neighborhood,
I'm sure you can find the same.
Check the yellow pages under "appliance, used"

Just don't use any copper tubing in your rez,
cause the nutes will react.

The really nice thing about the chiller 
is the thermostat, 
which keeps the nutes 
within 1.5º of your setting.

But I wouldn't worry about getting too cold,
some hydro farmers in Canada,
are running solution temps as low as 50ºf,
without chillers.
(wouldn't that be a bitch)

.


----------



## bezerker 420 (May 12, 2008)

ou can check out pacifis coast chillers their kinda pricy though


----------



## gvega187 (May 15, 2008)

hmmm, well price is not 2 much a factor, but I refuse to spend over $350 on something I may OR may NOT need. Earl I would use your suggested method, but don't want to start cutting holes in my res. My temperatures appear to be extremely variable. I feel that a chiller would be able to keep me at 68 all the time without venting the room, dumping ice in my res or some other dumbness. Thanks for u guys helps and ideas. Has anyone seen a significant jump on a power bill using a chiller? They are not technically on all the time...so cant be that much more power r ight?


----------



## purplehaze2 (May 15, 2008)

It was the last thing I bought for my hydro system,I was like you couldnt see paying so much for a water chiller.well now that I have 1 it would of been the first thing I bought.your plants are going to love it,and your system will stay cleaner longer. I have the polar bear one. its like having a hot sunny day and then diving into a florida fed spring. refreshing!


----------



## bezerker 420 (May 18, 2008)

i bought the 1/5 polar bear which claims to drop an 80 gallon tank 10 degrees.i currently have two 25 gallon resvs.i ran a T out of both the in and the out to try and chill both resvs with one chiller.i changed the tubing to a 3/4in hose and im running the out from the resv and a short return back in to the top.i turned on my chiller and nothing happend.no water will suck in or out.do i need to prime the chiller with more water?dose the upgrade in hose slow down performance?do i need to have the resv alot higher than the chiller?right now they are on the same level.the chiller is outsibe my chamber and has plenty of ventilation.do i possibly have a bunk unit?the lights come on but it doesnt apear to be trying to take water in at all!please respond soon


----------



## gotcha1st (May 18, 2008)

bezerker 420 said:


> i bought the 1/5 polar bear which claims to drop an 80 gallon tank 10 degrees.i currently have two 25 gallon resvs.i ran a T out of both the in and the out to try and chill both resvs with one chiller.i changed the tubing to a 3/4in hose and im running the out from the resv and a short return back in to the top.i turned on my chiller and nothing happend.no water will suck in or out.do i need to prime the chiller with more water?dose the upgrade in hose slow down performance?do i need to have the resv alot higher than the chiller?right now they are on the same level.the chiller is outsibe my chamber and has plenty of ventilation.do i possibly have a bunk unit?the lights come on but it doesnt apear to be trying to take water in at all!please respond soon


I think you need a waterpump to recirculate the water.



> Detailed Description Professional grade Via Aqua FloThru Chiller Model CC25B, with built in electronic controller. It utilizes the highest quality components. Commodity Axis has been producing these units for many years.
> 
> Temperature Control setting from 41 to 99 degrees F. Need colder? Check out our modified computer chiller unit.
> 
> ...


Could be wrong tho.


----------



## gvega187 (May 31, 2008)

lol, i'm pretty sure most chillers, especially those over 1/10th hp have their own pumps. I would love to be corrected about this though.


----------



## kuhdoffi (Jun 3, 2008)

lol then consider yourself corrected .. everyone iv seen needs a pump .. doesn't really sound like u need one just keeps some bottles of ice on hand for when it tips out at 70


----------



## gvega187 (Jun 9, 2008)

lol, next person who tells me to drop bottles into my hot res gets drug tests till the end of this month...jk. Really thou I didn't know you had to buy a pump AFTER SPENDING $400 on a decent chiller. Turns out...you do....and an expensive pump at that. (500-1000 gph depending on size).


----------



## LoudBlunts (Jun 10, 2008)

yo gvega...i forgot to show you, i found a cheap chiller: CL-85 micro chiller - Google Product Search

what ya think?


----------



## gvega187 (Jun 10, 2008)

hell yeah, I been looking at those a lot. They seem like they would work, but Im afraid such a small unit may only be able to chill me 5 degrees or so. I think if your using upwards of a 40gal. tank you should use a 1/10th HP unit. Can anyone please correct me again? Thanks blunt


----------



## LoudBlunts (Jun 10, 2008)

scroll down bro

Pacific Coast Water Chiller CL-280 for Hydroponic and Aeroponic Growing

does this help? hopefully those charts are beneficial on your quest for knowledge!


----------



## gvega187 (Jun 10, 2008)

you are wise mr blunt. I am scared the 85w coralife wont work and dont want to pay $400 for the unit you listed here lol. The worst part is after you pay $350-400 you have to buy $100 pump. Thinking about the hydrofarm active aqua and 1/10 current prime usa.


----------



## gvega187 (Jun 10, 2008)

gvega187 said:


> hello,
> 
> I am finally considering the purchase of an hydroponic chiller for my res. Temperatures rarely exceed 70, but I have to be sure....Algae is my arch nemesis. Does anyone have a favorite brand or type? Yes I know polar bear chillers work really good...they also cost twice the amount of others and appear to have a monopoly in the hydro market.
> 
> Are aquarium chillers any different? I am looking at Coralife chillers, Jbj and sealine. Any thoughts? I plan to go for about a 1/10th hp size to save on electricity while providing a 20 degree temp drop.


ok, now to answer my own questions so that others may take advantage of my weeks of chiller research. 

I went with the 1/10th HP current USA prime chiller. I chose this unit for several reasons.

-made in USA (easy warranty service. and not supporting outsourcing)

-I believe the 1/15th HP models may not be adequate for reservoirs over 25 gallons despite claims that say otherwise. (from the company)

-If you are running a smaller reservoir like most smart people 10-30 gallons I would highly recommend the 1/15th HP models. Note that 1/15th HP current USA models provide twice the amount of power to the heat exchanger than some comparable models.

-ALMOST ALL chillers do NOT come with a pump.

-I would NOT recommend the hydrofarm 1/10th hp models as they appear to be VERY inefficient and comparatively cheap lately....sketchy.

-Cora life models appear to be of higher quality than most chillers I have seen on ebay, but can anyone find their website? Do these guys still exist? I sure as hell couldn't find them...which makes warranty and or servicing an impossibility. 

-ALMOST ALL CHILLERS are capable of running hydroponics and aquarium settings. Hey...we both tend to build up a lot of salt right? whats the difference? Important to note that you may not want to get a used chiller on ebay that could have been used in a very dirty salt water reef tank. If you get a used unit...be prepared for some serious cleaning...and try to get a unit with a removable screen. 


-newho ill get back to this thread in a week to let you know if my unit has an adequate temperature pull down. 

if your looking for a chiller and don't know what to get basically just follow this quick guide:

1) good manufacturers - JBJ, polar bear, cora life, Current, 

2) what size res. r you trying to cool? 


less than 30gal - consider 1/15 HP 

30 gal-45gal. -consider 1/10 HP 

more than 50 gal. -consider some 1/10th HP models, but really need to think big at this point....possibly 1/6th-1/4 HP.

*ALL DEPENDING ON HOW MUCH UR TRYING TO COOL THAT RES. * 
if your only trying to cool 5 degrees in your 40 gallon you may be able to work with a 1/15 HP!

3) $$$$$$, I find that the hydrofarm units really give you the best bang for your buck...that is if they live up to all the pep talk the company gives itself. You can get a 1/10 HP hydrofarm chiller for $250-300 some places. Similar 1/10 units will cost you $100-300 more. Cora life apparently has a lot of history in the aquarium sector. People really like them and the price shows it. If you can find one cheap, get it...same with JBJ. 

HOPE THIS HELPS! Feel free to correct me on any of this stuff...I will make an edits. IF you are realllly having trouble deciding you should send me a PM. C'mon im bored neways give me a holar.


----------



## purplehaze2 (Jun 15, 2008)

very informative thread.Im getting asecond chiller so this will help.those water chillers company are stupid, if they would sale the pump with the chiller they would blow the doors off every body who sales them.these companys have marketing issues, and it sucks that you pay fucking 300 $ and not get a pump.And I know your going to say that they do it ,because they can,but thats not always the best route.why not just say a pump comes wiyh our water chiller and I think everybody would go with this company hands down. yes ! they would have to take a pump in the ass but the word of mouth would get around that they would just take every body buiss. yea it might be low balling but its all about the duckets when it comes to buiss.


----------



## gvega187 (Jun 15, 2008)

there is an ebay store that sells the hydrofarm chiller series with an adequate pump. I bet he/she makes a lot of $. My prime chiller gets here tomorrow...yay i can finally hydro


----------



## acer (Jun 16, 2008)

hey guys where can i find one and what part are yall going to chill ...oh yeah my first hydro grow so still a noob....cuse the *reservoir* and my bassin is 10 gallons so wich one am i suspose to chill and here is the systtem i am using http://sunlightsheds.com/ .....then click on products and click the mini cool cab and that is the one i got ..... just so yall know what iam working with .....so thanks for the help...oh yeah iam not trying to steal the thread just had a question an the same form


----------



## gvega187 (Jun 20, 2008)

acer said:


> hey guys where can i find one and what part are yall going to chill ...oh yeah my first hydro grow so still a noob....cuse the *reservoir* and my bassin is 10 gallons so wich one am i suspose to chill and here is the systtem i am using Sunlight Sheds Hydroponics Systems .....then click on products and click the mini cool cab and that is the one i got ..... just so yall know what iam working with .....so thanks for the help...oh yeah iam not trying to steal the thread just had a question an the same form


good jesus thats an expensive filing cabinet you got there. NEwho since your resevoir is 10 gallons it should be very easy to keep cool. With the ventilation system included with your "cool cab" I would not worry to much about the water temp however. If you do find that between your AC and ventilation you still get a water temperature over 68 degrees you will need to chill your reservoir. For you this may be as easy as topping off with 2 gallons of 60-62 degree tap water.(my avg. temp out of the tap) 

If you do decided to purchase a chiller because keeping your reservoir is invariably gay and hard then I suggest you go with a mini chiller somewhere in the range of 1/15th HP. Search for current USA on Google.


----------



## gvega187 (Jun 20, 2008)

I have been using my 1/10th current USA chiller for about week now. Earl is definitely correct as usual. Insulation of the reservoir and chiller tubing is necessary. Mainly you want to be sure to keep your chiller in a well ventilated area. If the ambient temperature surrounding your chiller is above even 82-85 degrees I have found that chillers will struggle to maintain the requested temperature. AVOID PLACING your chiller in closets, even if they are well ventilated. 

I have been able to maintain a temperature of no higher than 69 degrees by only insulating my tubing and providing decent ventilation to the chiller unit. For reference my reservoir has about 45 gallons in it now and ambient g-room temperature is 75-80F.

Earl, can you elaborate, perhaps with pictures how you plan to ventilate and or insulate your chilling equipment?


----------



## LoudBlunts (Jun 20, 2008)

he shows in his thread


for insulation of the tubing you can just wrap insulation around the tubing or get duct sleeving.

i plan on insulating my res with panda film and insulating foam!


----------



## gvega187 (Jun 20, 2008)

LoudBlunts said:


> he shows in his thread
> 
> 
> for insulation of the tubing you can just wrap insulation around the tubing or get duct sleeving.
> ...


true I used the exact same insulation method for the tubing. I am mainly wondering how Earl plans to ventilate his larger chiller. Right now I have my chiller right outside the G-room with the door closed. Another fan blows air into this intermediary room to keep it decently cool. I remember Earl talking about further ventilation/insulation in his next grow however.


----------



## gvega187 (Jul 5, 2008)

It is interesting to note that there are chillers on the market already that claim similar results.

Several mini chillers that run at only 100-180watts claim to chill 12 gallons by 6-10 degrees. These chillers come with a controller and will run you about $150-180. 

They also have a warranty. 

CL-85 Fish Aquarium Heater Chiller 12 GALLON - eBay (item 260155707673 end time Jul-27-08 07:38:19 PDT)

I would like to know more information about your custom chillers mr. Murphey.


----------



## User24 (Jul 7, 2008)

simple as hell, about halfway down the page

killies.com :: View topic - DIY Chiller

he just buys a dorm fridge, pops 2-3 holes in it, feeds in some flex pvc line, coils it in a rubbermaid full of water (water xfers temps faster, think warm beer/soda placed in icechest full of ice and water vs. warm beer/soda in just a chest of ice, no water.)

he has a "small powerhead to circulate the water in the tub. Without this powerhead, there's a danger the water in the coiled hose can turn to ice. Circulating the water also ensures every inch of the hose is in contact with the cold water. Besides this, there's another very important piece of equipment too. It's the thermal plate underneath the hose. This is used for making ice in fridges. The thermal plate ensures the water inside the tub becomes very very cold. It isn't very clear in the picture but if you look closely, you should be able to see a white plate underneath the hose. "

imo, as long as the input to the freezer is constantly being circulated, it has about a 0% chance to "turn to ice", so the power head isnt as essential as it is purported to be. still usefull tho


chills his large fish tank to the point that it has condensation all over it, as seen in the pics, and alot cheaper than 420+$ polar bear or active aqua. you could probably build this thing for ~ 150$ maybe 200 if you spring for a more expensive bar fridge instead of a dorm model.


----------



## User24 (Jul 7, 2008)

not smart to toss out your email address on a grow site imo, even if u are only selling chillers, which you are not, per your other few posts.

google/gmail probably has a people paid in a department to cooperate with LEO can just call up and get your info, RIU afaik does not.


----------



## unity (Jul 7, 2008)

gvega187 said:


> true I used the exact same insulation method for the tubing. I am mainly wondering how Earl plans to ventilate his larger chiller. Right now I have my chiller right outside the G-room with the door closed. Another fan blows air into this intermediary room to keep it decently cool. I remember Earl talking about further ventilation/insulation in his next grow however.



I've been running the 1/10th HP Current Chiller with no hick ups. Mine will bring the 30 gal res down to 63 from 84 ambient. Never tried it lower 
I keep mine at 68.
I wish I had one from the beginning, all my root issues have gone away

As to insulation, I'm in HVAC and we use Line-Set Insulation. Very easy to work with!

Unity


----------



## gvega187 (Jul 7, 2008)

unity said:


> I've been running the 1/10th HP Current Chiller with no hick ups. Mine will bring the 30 gal res down to 63 from 84 ambient. Never tried it lower
> I keep mine at 68.
> I wish I had one from the beginning, all my root issues have gone away
> 
> ...


I am receiving very similar results with my 1/10th hp. 

that diy looks sketchy, but cool if u cant fork out $300.


----------



## purplehaze2 (Jul 8, 2008)

Im going with user24.I have a fridge just sitting out there. I really think it would work,especially with that sprayed foam they have to really seal it up. it goes down this weekend.


----------



## mrbuzzsaw (Jul 8, 2008)

User24 said:


> simple as hell, about halfway down the page
> 
> killies.com :: View topic - DIY Chiller
> 
> ...


 i looked at his design my question is how does he get the freezer coil into the water tank???
mine is attached to the top!


----------



## D'FARMER (May 6, 2011)

This DIY water cooler works just fine (http://forum.grasscity.com/grow-room-design-setup/248366-klutters-diy-chiller-35-00-usd.html). I picked up a water cooler for free off Craig's List. I bought me a 10 gallon cooler off Craig's List for $5 bucks which I am using that as a cooling res. I am using 20' X 1/4" black sprinkler hose coiled up and placed into the cooling res. connected with a small pump which siphons nutes through the cold water and back into the nute res. I use a timer on the cooler plus its very generic thermostat to keep nutes at 68 degrees. Took a little tweaking though. I even bought a 1/10 chiller 4 months old for $150 bucks as I could not pass up the deal but still deiced to do the DIY water cooler project to see if it worked which it did. I now have sold my chiller and applied monies toward other necessary items. I also found a guy on Craig's List who refurbishes water coolers and he was willing to just sell me the cooling unit for $20 bucks as well as other water coolers being sold from $10 bucks to & $100 bucks.


----------



## joe macclennan (May 6, 2011)

what about the copper coils being submerged in your rez water? I have read quite a few times that copper in your water is all bad. Plus i know that enough copper will kill plants. I like the idea but i would like to hear some feedback from a few more people people.


----------



## stelthy (Aug 1, 2011)

Hi, I need help  !!! - I have 2x 10L Res. tubs in my Grow-Cab, and am using HID lighting, the rooms ambient temp with lights on is between 26 & 30oC. My problem lays with the Res. tubs, my res is between 20 and 30oC, Ideally I want both of my Res. tubs to be approx 18oC !! I am interested in getting a chiller but need to be clear on a few things 1st:- 

*Does the water chiller make much noise when its working ??

Can I cool 2 Reservoirs with one water chiller ??

How do I install it ??

Does the way it connects to the res. take up much space inside the res. tubs ??

Should I also use insulation on/around my res. tubs, & if so whats the best insulation to use thats not too bulky ?? 
*

I really hope y'all can answer my questions, as I want the best future for my 'Royale-Haze' girls, and really need to chill my res in the best, cheapest and smallest way possible asap! Many thanks - STELTHY


----------



## stelthy (Aug 1, 2011)

stelthy said:


> Hi, I need help  !!! - I have 2x 10L Res. tubs in my Grow-Cab, and am using HID lighting, the rooms ambient temp with lights on is between 26 & 30oC. My problem lays with the Res. tubs, my res is between 20 and 30oC, Ideally I want both of my Res. tubs to be approx 18oC !! I am interested in getting a chiller but need to be clear on a few things 1st:-
> 
> *Does the water chiller make much noise when its working ??
> 
> ...









I was also wondering... Is this the correct way to set up the water cooler if I wanted to cool 2 Res. tubs? - STELTHY


----------



## unity (Aug 1, 2011)

stelthy said:


> I was also wondering... Is this the correct way to set up the water cooler if I wanted to cool 2 Res. tubs? - STELTHY


Your return line from the res1 should be exiting res 1 at the bottom, not the top. That way water level fluctuations will not affect your chiller. A chiller can not run 'dry', it will freeze the standing water in it and bust internal components.

Kind


----------



## unity (Aug 1, 2011)

Uhh, this is one dusty thread, cough, cough.


----------



## stelthy (Aug 1, 2011)

unity said:


> Your return line from the res1 should be exiting res 1 at the bottom, not the top. That way water level fluctuations will not affect your chiller. A chiller can not run 'dry', it will freeze the standing water in it and bust internal components.
> 
> Kind


Ok, that makes sense  .. Is there a good way to stop the plants roots getting entangled/blocking both the PVC through pipe (Res. connector pipe), and also the Cooler hoses? I think after I have sorted this... I will then go and buy a cooler.. do you know if they are available in sizes smaller than 220 L per Hour? ...I only say that cos it seems a bit excessive when I only have 20 L total to keep cool ??

Cheers for wiping the dust and cobwebs from this thread  I think what with the random heat we're having at the moment, this thread and your helpful answers could really be a life-saver for many a RIU Member  - STELTHY


----------



## stelthy (Aug 1, 2011)

Is it a good idea to run the Cooler the whole time?, Just whilst lights are on?, or staggered say on for an hour off for an hour etc etc ?? - STELTHY


----------



## disposition84 (Aug 1, 2011)

Run the cooler 24/7, during lights off there won't be much to add heat so the chiller wont have to run.
Ideally you want to go for consistent temps, and keep it at the right level to help ensure proper dissolved
oxygen levels.


----------



## unity (Aug 1, 2011)

Run a chiller that is designed for the volume of water you are trying to cool. Compression cycles (ac/chillers/dehumidifiers etc.) use most of their power during start up (Locked Rotor Amps), running load amps (RLA) are a fraction of that. By over sizing a chiller you will cause the chiller to cycle far more often then it would if it was sized correctly, therefore using more electricity. I hope this makes sense, I'm a mechanical contractor...
I would get a chiller that requirres an external pump (most do anyway), furthermore, get a pump that is not submersed in the res. (didn't notice one in the drawing, hope you are planning on a res). An external pump (not submersed) will have almost none of the heat generated from operation conduct into your res., which would add a heat load to the res. that in turn the chiller would have to remove again. 
If the ambient temperatures (air temp around the res.) are higher then the water temps you should insulate the res as well. 
Disposition84 is right, you want to run the chiller 24/7, if you do what I told you above the chiller will not run much during lights out 
Alright, let's leave it at that for now.

Kind


----------

