# Forced THC Production



## Gilfman (Jan 30, 2015)

Okay so I know the reason stated for sensi having more resin is due to the plant trying to grab pollen up. However, reading Wikipedia about THC says it's produced to deter herbivores. I know of plants being smart in their defenses by detecting like what is attacking it, if it was to detect an herbivore attack vs something else.. you should be able to replicate a deer attack with deer saliva, etc. ("What Plants Talk About" on Netflix)

So my hypothesis is after the plant is pollenated it doesnt care to deter once it can get its seeds out, thus not producing as much resin.

What do you all think about this possible tactic at forcing resin production? I assume this would work with any type of saliva (rabbit, deer, human) in foliage would probably work. Like bite a chunk of leaf or into bud, simply trimming your plants or pulling leaves will only trigger a physical and not chemical response. 

Posted on phone so format is off


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## RM3 (Jan 30, 2015)

First off, I breed, and IME seeded buds are more resinous as they do it to protect the seeds, the cannibanoid profile is different and thus makes a different kind of high which I actually prefer but I still grow non seeded buds to see the differences.

There are lots of ways to increase trics but IMO deep blue + UV light is the best

I have bitten leaves off, didn't do much. You can use Insect Frass or aspirin to induce a SAR response but it is minimal at best IME There is also Jasmonite but like I said (and I have done it all LOL) Deep blue light with added UV and plenty of available sulfur and you too can grow trics 

This is week five of flower ,,,,,


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## HolyGhost23 (Jan 30, 2015)

what 


RM3 said:


> First off, I breed, and IME seeded buds are more resinous as they do it to protect the seeds, the cannibanoid profile is different and thus makes a different kind of high which I actually prefer but I still grow non seeded buds to see the differences.
> 
> There are lots of ways to increase trics but IMO deep blue + UV light is the best
> 
> ...



what kind of UV light would you recommend?


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## RM3 (Jan 30, 2015)

HolyGhost23 said:


> what kind of UV light would you recommend?


I flower with T5's and use ATI True Actinics for UV and ATI Coral Plus for deep blue

These could be added to grows as supplemental side lighting to achieve the same results
also don't forget the sulfur, it feeds the trics


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## Canon (Jan 30, 2015)

RM3 said:


> I flower with T5's and use ATI True Actinics for UV and ATI Coral Plus for deep blue
> 
> These could be added to grows as supplemental side lighting to achieve the same results
> also don't forget the sulfur, it feeds the trics



Been meaning to ask,,, Have you noticed any effect (good / bad / different) from your lighting & sulfur in your seed production and / or off-spring?


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## RM3 (Jan 30, 2015)

Canon said:


> Been meaning to ask,,, Have you noticed any effect (good / bad / different) from your lighting & sulfur in your seed production and / or off-spring?


Not yet, first seed runs since ALL changes is underway now


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## churchhaze (Feb 2, 2015)

I've always wondered if increased sulfur levels could be responsible for higher terpine levels just because it seemed intuitive that sulfur makes things smell... but i've never really experimented with controlling sulfur levels. That's always my freedom variable. (allowed to change to make other elements right)


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## docter (Feb 3, 2015)

From what I have been reading sulfur is integral to terpene production.


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## DemonTrich (Feb 3, 2015)

my raw sweetener has sulfur in it (botanicare iirc), same as my old sugar daddy from tenhnaflora, but much cheaper than SD.


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## docter (Feb 4, 2015)

I will keep that in mind thanks.


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## rory420420 (Feb 5, 2015)

RM3 said:


> First off, I breed, and IME seeded buds are more resinous as they do it to protect the seeds, the cannibanoid profile is different and thus makes a different kind of high which I actually prefer but I still grow non seeded buds to see the differences.
> 
> There are lots of ways to increase trics but IMO deep blue + UV light is the best
> 
> ...


Hey rid,with the led discussion we were having,think the deep blue ocean/aquarium led would replace the t5 uvb tubes? I see they get to 400nm but I'm looking for @300~nm right? Still gearing up for frost-a-thon 2015,but every time I go to shop I see different related equipment...
Know any one who's used the blue/purple LEDs?


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## rory420420 (Feb 5, 2015)

churchhaze said:


> I've always wondered if increased sulfur levels could be responsible for higher terpine levels just because it seemed intuitive that sulfur makes things smell... but i've never really experimented with controlling sulfur levels. That's always my freedom variable. (allowed to change to make other elements right)


Ime experience yes...I've done a side by side on a Canadian train wreck that was absolute crap genetics..first run with my r.o. water and nutes,second run with the well water,that has so much sulfur in it it smells like boiled eggs! 
First run had NO trichs,even after I let it go long as shit..found out about sulfur,and did the experiment,got half way thru flower and could def see visible trich improvement..never finished the full flower as It was a crap strain,but just the half flower with sulfur water sold me...too bad my well water has shittons of other crap in it,so I'm not comfortable using just water and cutting out the r.o...
I recommend trying it ..


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## Sire Killem All (Feb 6, 2015)

lol @RM3 thought u meant sulfur as in burners, was bout to say u gonna kill this guy ( figured i misinterpted it)


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## RM3 (Feb 6, 2015)

rory420420 said:


> Hey rid,with the led discussion we were having,think the deep blue ocean/aquarium led would replace the t5 uvb tubes? I see they get to 400nm but I'm looking for @300~nm right? Still gearing up for frost-a-thon 2015,but every time I go to shop I see different related equipment...
> Know any one who's used the blue/purple LEDs?


Does seem possible, but I don't know?


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## Knott Collective (Feb 6, 2015)

We find that using slightly more magnesium sulfate in late flower results in better vigor, retention of leaf color and a better aroma in the finished product. Boosting the P&K in the last three weeks of flower is highly over-rated, in our humble experiences. If overdone the PK just burns up the leaves. We also keep the N and Ca slightly higher relative to the PK. We still elevate the PK slightly but nowhere near what the interwebz geniuses recommend.


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## billy4479 (Feb 6, 2015)

DemonTrich said:


> my raw sweetener has sulfur in it (botanicare iirc), same as my old sugar daddy from tenhnaflora, but much cheaper than SD.


 A bag of Epson salt is way cheaper than Raw and sugar daddy any day , just saying


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## rory420420 (Feb 6, 2015)

RM3 said:


> Does seem possible, but I don't know?


Experiment it is! 
Will be uncertain tho as one half end of the tent is occupied by 1 huge blue Hawaiian,the other end with 2 other strains,so I won't have a control specimen and all subjects will be different strains..but,I'm gonna do it for the cause(cause I want snow frosted buds)


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## Positivity (Feb 6, 2015)

Langbeinite....aka sul-po-mag is a good amendment for sulfur and magnesium. I usually include it in new soil mixes with good results

T5 reptile bulbs work well in small areas for more resinous flowers


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## King Arthur (Feb 7, 2015)

Knott Collective said:


> We find that using slightly more magnesium sulfate in late flower results in better vigor, retention of leaf color and a better aroma in the finished product. Boosting the P&K in the last three weeks of flower is highly over-rated, in our humble experiences. If overdone the PK just burns up the leaves. We also keep the N and Ca slightly higher relative to the PK. We still elevate the PK slightly but nowhere near what the interwebz geniuses recommend.


I don't blame the ignorant, I blame the companies that feed on peoples hard earned dollars. Charging someone 100 bucks a bottle that costs 3 bucks to make is not very ethical.


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## RyanTrees (Feb 7, 2015)

RM3 said:


> I flower with T5's and use ATI True Actinics for UV and ATI Coral Plus for deep blue
> 
> These could be added to grows as supplemental side lighting to achieve the same results
> also don't forget the sulfur, it feeds the trics


Can these be achieved thur sulfurdmolasses? I feed with in sulfurohed by grandmas and have always had very frosty flowers, always been schooled to choose unsulphured, can't remember why tho, and I remeber reading a discussion on wether to use sulfurd or un, any answers on reasons why and why not each is good or not good would be appreciated


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## RM3 (Feb 7, 2015)

RyanTrees said:


> Can these be achieved thur sulfurdmolasses? I feed with in sulfurohed by grandmas and have always had very frosty flowers, always been schooled to choose unsulphured, can't remember why tho, and I remeber reading a discussion on wether to use sulfurd or un, any answers on reasons why and why not each is good or not good would be appreciated


Unsulfured molasses has sulfur in it though not much and the reason for using unsulfured is more about the process than the benefit. I actually don't use molasses because it can mess up the nute ratios. The best way to go is via sulfates as they don't alter PH and are readily available to the plant.


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## RyanTrees (Feb 7, 2015)

Don't mean to sound ignorant, can you explain sulfate a if it's a pain I can look it up but. I figured I'd ask you


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## RM3 (Feb 8, 2015)

RyanTrees said:


> Don't mean to sound ignorant, can you explain sulfate a if it's a pain I can look it up but. I figured I'd ask you


as example Epsom Salt is Magnesium Sulfate


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## Marty Wanna (Feb 8, 2015)

RM3 said:


> First off, I breed, and IME seeded buds are more resinous as they do it to protect the seeds, the cannibanoid profile is different and thus makes a different kind of high which I actually prefer but I still grow non seeded buds to see the differences.
> 
> There are lots of ways to increase trics but IMO deep blue + UV light is the best
> 
> ...


Look at that PLANT!

I'm using some 400-700nm Blue LEDs on a few seedlings, I'm planning to bring them intot he bloom room with som UV floro tubes when buds begin. sound like a plan?


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## RM3 (Feb 8, 2015)

Marty Wanna said:


> Look at that PLANT!
> 
> I'm using some 400-700nm Blue LEDs on a few seedlings, I'm planning to bring them intot he bloom room with som UV floro tubes when buds begin. sound like a plan?


experiments are required in order to learn


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## HolyGhost23 (Feb 8, 2015)

would botanicare sweet be a good source of sulfer?


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## RM3 (Feb 8, 2015)

HolyGhost23 said:


> would botanicare sweet be a good source of sulfer?


I have no idea, perhaps ask em?


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## HolyGhost23 (Feb 11, 2015)

Anyway I looked at my sweet berry and it does contain sulphur and magnesium.. Also hopefully my uvb light will be here before my plant is done. If not I have another little sucker going. I got a 54watt t5 at 420nm and a 10000k bulb to offset my 3000k cxa bulbs


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## nomofatum (Feb 11, 2015)

sulfuric acid instead of PH down is an easy sulfur source you don't have to think about, just use as PH down. Note you will have to mix it with water to make it safe to handle, you will have to be careful mixing, but then can be treated as normal PH down. Don't be afraid, not a job for the 5 year old, but us adults should be able to be careful for the 30 seconds it takes to mix and you only have to do it once.


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## Doer (Feb 21, 2015)

Gilfman said:


> Okay so I know the reason stated for sensi having more resin is due to the plant trying to grab pollen up. However, reading Wikipedia about THC says it's produced to deter herbivores. I know of plants being smart in their defenses by detecting like what is attacking it, if it was to detect an herbivore attack vs something else.. you should be able to replicate a deer attack with deer saliva, etc. ("What Plants Talk About" on Netflix)
> 
> So my hypothesis is after the plant is pollenated it doesnt care to deter once it can get its seeds out, thus not producing as much resin.
> 
> ...


First off, none of those early "theories" are correct except by accident. So, to take as fact, an unknown and then try to use it as a fact when it is unknown, is just asking for failure.

When deer, or a rabbit or any small mammal, can attack Ganja is when it is small. And when it is small it has no resin.

When the main cola is up in the air, 10 feet, the buds are not accessable to any mammal except elephant and giraffe.

Now think of the landrace strains at 12, 000 feet in Afghanistan. Not many mammals at all.

So, just base logic says that is a raw guess. And then to add saliva as the mechanism is just guess on guess.

A strain that is taken well care, and pampered will produce the best meds.


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## mc130p (Feb 21, 2015)

nomofatum said:


> sulfuric acid instead of PH down is an easy sulfur source you don't have to think about, just use as PH down. Note you will have to mix it with water to make it safe to handle, you will have to be careful mixing, but then can be treated as normal PH down. Don't be afraid, not a job for the 5 year old, but us adults should be able to be careful for the 30 seconds it takes to mix and you only have to do it once.


don't forget: always add acid to water, never ever add water to acid!!!!!!


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## nomofatum (Feb 21, 2015)

mc130p said:


> don't forget: always add acid to water, never ever add water to acid!!!!!!


Where eye protection too. Eyes are really the only place that has any risk of permanent injury. Battery acid doesn't burn skin very fast, I've had a few drops get on my hands filling lawnmower and other small batteries, if washed immediately there was no effect at all, if washed after finishing filling the battery there was a itchy sting for the rest of the day on the area with a minor redness and some rough dry skin for a couple of days after. Shooting off a bottle rocket is far more dangerous than mixing sulfuric acid with water. If you are too afraid to do either or both I have chicken sounds and a dance to taunt you with.


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## mc130p (Feb 21, 2015)

nomofatum said:


> Where eye protection too. Eyes are really the only place that has any risk of permanent injury. Battery acid doesn't burn skin very fast, I've had a few drops get on my hands filling lawnmower and other small batteries, if washed immediately there was no effect at all, if washed after finishing filling the battery there was a itchy sting for the rest of the day on the area with a minor redness and some rough dry skin for a couple of days after. Shooting off a bottle rocket is far more dangerous than mixing sulfuric acid with water. If you are too afraid to do either or both I have chicken sounds and a dance to taunt you with.


haha, I have 13M HCl. I add acid to water,  yes, depending on what you're doing eye protection is a good idea. that's a good point. safety first, even if you end up looking like you're in a level 4 BSL, lol.


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## HolyGhost23 (Feb 24, 2015)

the UVB light seems to be making a difference on my plant..


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## nomofatum (Feb 24, 2015)

HolyGhost23 said:


> the UVB light seems to be making a difference on my plant.. View attachment 3358711


You don't happen to have a before pic do you?

That thing looks like it has too much N, BTW.


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## bellcore (Feb 24, 2015)

i found this interesting,


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## Daub Marley (Mar 24, 2015)

Doer said:


> First off, none of those early "theories" are correct except by accident. So, to take as fact, an unknown and then try to use it as a fact when it is unknown, is just asking for failure.
> 
> When deer, or a rabbit or any small mammal, can attack Ganja is when it is small. And when it is small it has no resin.


I believe most vertebrates have an endocannabinoid system whereas bugs do not. The plant produces THC in response to bugs not herbivores, although I would imagine most would be deterred. Another clue to this is that there is more THC produced on the trichomes which grow on the veins of leaves. 
I think its also important to realize that THC may serve many purposes for the plant and that there is most likely no single reason. That's common in many of the terpenes produced. They serve multiple functions.


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## Doer (Mar 24, 2015)

HolyGhost23 said:


> the UVB light seems to be making a difference on my plant.. View attachment 3358711


What difference do you see?


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## thenotsoesoteric (Mar 24, 2015)

Doer said:


> First off, none of those early "theories" are correct except by accident. So, to take as fact, an unknown and then try to use it as a fact when it is unknown, is just asking for failure.
> 
> When deer, or a rabbit or any small mammal, can attack Ganja is when it is small. And when it is small it has no resin.
> 
> ...


Well, in the midwest US most pot plants don't grow 12 ft tall. In fact almost none of the outdoor plants I grew guerilla style in the midwest got much over 6 ft tall. And until you have a couple of your 6 ft nearly fully flower plants eaten by white tale deer I guess it's not an issue. Also have you seen deer eat, they'll strip a 10 ft or 12 ft plant down by pushing it over. Deer love fully mature plants in my experience. Cheers.


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## Doer (Mar 25, 2015)

So, THC can't be protection from deer.  Probably all mammals would like it.


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## bellcore (Mar 25, 2015)

Meet SugarBob.


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## thenotsoesoteric (Mar 25, 2015)

^^^ NIce video.


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## Dr. Who (Mar 29, 2015)

HolyGhost23 said:


> what kind of UV light would you recommend?


https://www.rollitup.org/t/when-to-hit-em-with-uvb.858661/page-2#post-11454191



DemonTrich said:


> my raw sweetener has sulfur in it (botanicare iirc), same as my old sugar daddy from tenhnaflora, but much cheaper than SD.





HolyGhost23 said:


> would botanicare sweet be a good source of sulfer?


Yes,,,but it's to damn expensive in their bottle! How about I teach you to MAKE YOUR OWN?
You will need:
1 bag of Epsom salts
1 box of DARK brown sugar
1 gallon of RO water.
1 gallon opaque bottle....(not clear and brown is best)

Bring 4 cups of the water to a FULL boil.
Add 8 TBL of the Epsom and 1 1/2 tsp of the Dark Brown Sugar.
Boil for 5 minutes stirring constantly to ensure the dissolve is complete.
Pour the 4 cups of boiling solution into the remaining water already in the opaque bottle and shake to mix completely.

Congratulations! You have just made a Gallon of Botanicare Sweet Raw $ 65.00 average retail for the massive sum of about 1 dollar! Most likely less !!



bellcore said:


> Meet SugarBob.


Just another teenage dope fiend!


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## Dr. Who (Mar 29, 2015)

BTW
THC is also thought to be a "filter" to harmful UV rays that can damage the plant and that's why the increase in THC if supplemental UVB is used.


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## Dr. Who (Mar 30, 2015)

By increased trich production?


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## zchopper420 (Mar 30, 2015)

RM3 said:


> I flower with T5's and use ATI True Actinics for UV and ATI Coral Plus for deep blue
> 
> These could be added to grows as supplemental side lighting to achieve the same results
> also don't forget the sulfur, it feeds the trics


Exactly what i use you can get em at petco grown with supplemental actinic t5s. Have you ever tried or heard of the pure par t5s they seem pretty similar but cheaper


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## RM3 (Mar 30, 2015)

zchopper420 said:


> Exactly what i use you can get em at petcoView attachment 3384117 grown with supplemental actinic t5s. Have you ever tried or heard of the pure par t5s they seem pretty similar but cheaper


No, but I know other growers that are testin other bulbs, so far the Giessemanns are workin


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## Dr. Who (Apr 9, 2015)

Forcing THC by UVB has been around awhile.....It was found that Cannabis Sativa (Indica will too) will increase the THC when UVB exposure is increased. Now then,,,THC content is highest in the mourning and decreases as UV exposure peaks in late mourning. The plant it's self begins to change on the cellular peptide level with later mourning and increasing into the early afternoon to protect it's self from the lights intensity . This correlates to the decrease in effectiveness of the THC as it degrades from the UV exposure.

So then, it is clear that the plants most effective time to harvest is right at lights on to ensure the highest THC levels. You can also conclude that the plant will actually use less light as the days goes on as the cellular changes reduce photosynthesis and Co2 use through out the plant.....Night time is when the THC increases and the plant reverts to being able to actually use all the available lighting,,,,,until it begins that change to protect it's self from the light again.

Increasing Co2 will allow an increase in the use of available lighting. Thus slowing down or decreasing the need for the plant to protect it's self by cellular change. It will then actually process this now available light into it's use. Increase in heat is needed for increased Co2 to work also.....So then, If you increase the actual time the plant is _using _the light to grow from (tighter, more dense nugs/w increased size due to Co2 supplementation), are you not increasing the tric production to a point that would correlate to the plants increase in size?

By using _all_ available methods of increasing tric production you will increase the overall THC content to quite measurable amounts on average....Each has their problems/drawbacks, but in the long run,, is it no more of a problem to dial in then anything else? Nope, not if you have the time and patience ......

In flower the use of UVB, Co2 and S with Mg would be the easiest/most cost effective ways.

Good luck

Doc


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## greasemonkeymann (Apr 17, 2015)

Dr. Who said:


> Forcing THC by UVB has been around awhile.....It was found that Cannabis Sativa (Indica will too) will increase the THC when UVB exposure is increased. Now then,,,THC content is highest in the mourning and decreases as UV exposure peaks in late mourning. The plant it's self begins to change on the cellular peptide level with later mourning and increasing into the early afternoon to protect it's self from the lights intensity . This correlates to the decrease in effectiveness of the THC as it degrades from the UV exposure.
> 
> So then, it is clear that the plants most effective time to harvest is right at lights on to ensure the highest THC levels. You can also conclude that the plant will actually use less light as the days goes on as the cellular changes reduce photosynthesis and Co2 use through out the plant.....Night time is when the THC increases and the plant reverts to being able to actually use all the available lighting,,,,,until it begins that change to protect it's self from the light again.
> 
> ...


In about 2005 I moved from my place in santa cruz, right on the beach, so it was sealevel, from there to 2500 feet up, in the santa cruz mountains, I had the same bluedream and J1 strains that I had for years, and those grown outside were noticeably stronger in potency, and when I say noticeably, I mean it.
Sorta like if you have had a car for years, and then all of a sudden it gained 50 horsepower.... you notice it.
Plus I got sunburns up there in like 15 mins, no joke.


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## Joedank (Apr 17, 2015)

greasemonkeymann said:


> In about 2005 I moved from my place in santa cruz, right on the beach, so it was sealevel, from there to 2500 feet up, in the santa cruz mountains, I had the same bluedream and J1 strains that I had for years, and those grown outside were noticeably stronger in potency, and when I say noticeably, I mean it.
> Sorta like if you have had a car for years, and then all of a sudden it gained 50 horsepower.... you notice it.
> Plus I got sunburns up there in like 15 mins, no joke.


yeah my homies found that out first year i grew ouside at 7200 ft . BAM straight to the couch or work with the durban...

'side note you still running the J1? i loved that cut ...


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## greasemonkeymann (Apr 17, 2015)

Joedank said:


> yeah my homies found that out first year i grew ouside at 7200 ft . BAM straight to the couch or work with the durban...
> 
> 'side note you still running the J1? i loved that cut ...


oh man... no I lost her...
BUT there is a dispensary that has her, been thinking about getting another one, I just doubt its the same as way back then.
And WOW, if mne was that strong @2500, I would be straight up concerned about trying that herb grown @7000...
Too high..
the J1 was a keeper though, a shorter version of the jack herer, can't go wrong there.
I recently got the pineapple hashplant, from Bodhi. it's xj-13 X the 88g13hashplant
Can't freakin wait for that one... the seedlings are just now at their second node
I'm a sucker for anything related to the jack herer


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## nameno (Apr 20, 2015)

Great thread Thanks!!


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## Letstrip (Apr 20, 2015)

Here in New Zealand theirs a natural hole in the ozone layer letting more UV light through which is pretty cool, always grow good weed outside here, even the average looking shit shit can be quite good. Imagine growing up at 2500ft over here like you guys mentioned!

Found this interesting

The ozone layer acts as a natural filter in the atmosphere, which protects plant and animals from the increased UV irradiation from sunlight. Annually, scientists from around the world come to New Zealand to examine the impact of high UVB sunlight on plants and animals due to this natural hole in the ozone layer.

From comparative research, it has been shown that New Zealand has a 40 percent greater UVB light level than its geographically matched location (latitude, longitude and altitude) in the Northern hemisphere_.

For those who enjoy the unique lifestyle offered in New Zealand, the higher UVB levels require summer time precautions such as protecting the skin with sunblock, and wide-brimmed hats. But what has been discovered is that plants also take precautions to avoid over-exposure to UV light.

Plants do this by producing secondary metabolites. These include bioactives such as flavonoids, phenolic compound, alkaloids, essential oils etc, as well as phytoestrogens, which are considered to be important compounds often exhibiting human health benefits. These groups of compounds can act as plant sunscreens and provide protection for the plants against UVB radiation[ii].






*Benefits*
Because of its greater UVB light level, New Zealand-grown plants produce compounds that can potentially improve the overall health of the human diet because these natural bioactive compounds exhibit potent antioxidant and other functional properties that promote health.

For example, *on average one kilogram of Bing sweet cherries grown in New Zealand will have 238 percent higher levels of anthocyanin (red colour pigment, which is known for a variety of health benefits including cardiovascular health) and a 290 percent increase in antioxidant capacity (measured using oxygen radical absorbance capacity or ORAC) when compared to one kilogram of Bing sweet cherries grown in the United States[iii]*.

As further evidence of this UV effect, in 2011 a research scientist from ARS Western Regional Research Centre in California published a report that showed a moderate dose of UVB light given to fresh, sliced carrots for 14 seconds can boost their antioxidant capacity threefold.

The research went on to explain that exposing carrots to UVB light causes a stress response and these plants respond by increasing their production of natural bioactive compounds including plant phenolics. Some plant phenolics, such as those found in green tea, are powerful antioxidants with a range of health benefits[iv].

According to these researchers, the idea of using UVB light to enrich the bioactives and antioxidant levels of fresh produce such as fruits, vegetables or other medicinal botanicals present exciting opportunities for further investigation.

https://www.nzte.govt.nz/archive/en/news-and-media/news-and-media/features/hole-in-ozone-boosts-health-properties-of-nz-plants/

Also this fact was quite interesting! Bad for us but good for our weed 

New Zealand’s death rate from skin cancer is about 300 per year, the highest in the world relative to population (and over half that from road accidents). This is due to the relatively high UV exposures and the high number of fair-skinned people. Peak UV intensities in New Zealand are about 40% greater than at comparable latitudes in Europe._


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## greasemonkeymann (Apr 20, 2015)

Letstrip said:


> Here in New Zealand theirs a natural hole in the ozone layer letting more UV light through which is pretty cool, always grow good weed outside here, even the average looking shit shit can be quite good. Imagine growing up at 2500ft over here like you guys mentioned!
> 
> Found this interesting
> 
> ...


that's some good information there, very interesting..
And holy shit man.... skin cancer death rates?! wow... Well, shit.. at least you have some potent ganja for the cancer patients though..
I bet with the right strains there is some insanity that could be achieved.... especially like on a mountain, *IN* New Zealand... Damn... I guess I must be getting old, cuz that doesn't even sound fun, I mean, the herb I grow here is too strong sometimes..
Damnit now I want some cherries...


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## bravedave (Apr 20, 2015)

My first 2 grows I used a MH bulb start to finish...and had decent trichs. At 51 days of flower with an HPS this go and I do seem to have less. Might plug the MH back in for the finish or... Any benefit at this point to augmenting the HPS with T5 UV?? About 20 days left.


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## Letstrip (Apr 20, 2015)

greasemonkeymann said:


> that's some good information there, very interesting..
> And holy shit man.... skin cancer death rates?! wow... Well, shit.. at least you have some potent ganja for the cancer patients though..
> I bet with the right strains there is some insanity that could be achieved.... especially like on a mountain, *IN* New Zealand... Damn... I guess I must be getting old, cuz that doesn't even sound fun, I mean, the herb I grow here is too strong sometimes..
> Damnit now I want some cherries...


Cheers yeah man you gotta cover up over here the suns pretty strong, uv's deadly  Good for the plants health benefits though haha


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## greasemonkeymann (Apr 21, 2015)

bravedave said:


> My first 2 grows I used a MH bulb start to finish...and had decent trichs. At 51 days of flower with an HPS this go and I do seem to have less. Might plug the MH back in for the finish or... Any benefit at this point to augmenting the HPS with T5 UV?? About 20 days left.


I have used and HIGHLY recommend using both hps and mh, I have done it for yrs and yrs, and the extra cost on electricity is worth it, typically two 600 hps and one 400 mh.
I guran-fuckin-tee you will never go back to using just hps (unless you are like me and can't run three bulbs anymore)
Keep one thing in mind, mh's put out less lumens, and run hotter... and to get all the light to the plants I like to not use a sealed air cool reflector, I think the glass dims the UV ( I could be full of shit) Point is, it gets hot...
And another thing to note, I don't think a MH can REPLACE a hps, better to just supplement it.
You can, but your yields will be lower, no doubt. BUT your nugs will be knock-ass tasty and strong...And crystally as hell
If you are limited to just two bulbs, i'd go with a fancy CMH, and a magnetic ballast. use that sucker with a digital 600 HPS and rotate the crop under those lamps every 15 days.
They need to make a 600 w CMH bulb...
I would be allllll over that


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## Dr. Who (Apr 21, 2015)

I use very little HPS at all anymore. I have been doing experiments with 730nm (PFR) range LED's (I was looking at longer lights on times that this can provide to shorten the overall bloom period......Not working as I wanted.....Now about to try the other direction - Shorter lights on times...But that's another thread) and am now simply using those at about the lights out in flower to signal "night" to the plant and run only MH for the better blue range that HPS lacks in comparing to natural sunlight.....You don't "need" HPS at all to flower, and there are advanced growers who do nothing but MH......

Food for thought.....try some different things and see what works.......I can only say that to experiment.....leads to answers that you will understand in far better ways then to take someones word as gospel...


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## greasemonkeymann (Apr 21, 2015)

Dr. Who said:


> I use very little HPS at all anymore. I have been doing experiments with 730nm (PFR) range LED's (I was looking at longer lights on times that this can provide to shorten the overall bloom period......Not working as I wanted.....Now about to try the other direction - Shorter lights on times...But that's another thread) and am now simply using those at about the lights out in flower to signal "night" to the plant and run only MH for the better blue range that HPS lacks in comparing to natural sunlight.....You don't "need" HPS at all to flower, and there are advanced growers who do nothing but MH......
> 
> Food for thought.....try some different things and see what works.......I can only say that to experiment.....leads to answers that you will understand in far better ways then to take someones word as gospel...


ahhh yes... I need to do some serious homework on LEDs..
I have done MHs beginining to end, back in the 90s I only had a huge ass non-remote MH for warehouse lighting... used that big-ass thing for yrs and yrs.. ALWAYS great herb and way better than what I could buy, even in santa cruz.
But from a 400W mh... to a digital 600 hps?
the difference in yield was pretty obvious..
Also I moved to a house that had power outages all the damn time, so I needed a digital ballast...


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## Dr. Who (Apr 21, 2015)

greasemonkeymann said:


> ahhh yes... I need to do some serious homework on LEDs..
> I have done MHs beginining to end, back in the 90s I only had a huge ass non-remote MH for warehouse lighting... used that big-ass thing for yrs and yrs.. ALWAYS great herb and way better than what I could buy, even in santa cruz.
> But from a 400W mh... to a digital 600 hps?
> the difference in yield was pretty obvious..
> Also I moved to a house that had power outages all the damn time, so I needed a digital ballast...



I run nothing but 1K's for bloom....T5's and 600's for Veg.

The LED's I mentioned are 730nm _only _and have a single high Power LED in what looks like a garage Halogen lamp.....Otherwise I won't bother with LED's .....


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## greasemonkeymann (Apr 21, 2015)

Dr. Who said:


> I run nothing but 1K's for bloom....T5's and 600's for Veg.
> 
> The LED's I mentioned are 730nm _only _and have a single high Power LED in what looks like a garage Halogen lamp.....Otherwise I won't bother with LED's .....


nice, I really need to get into this... For yrs I was a skeptic..
Anyone that knows me would be shocked to hear me pondering going away from my beloved hps/mh mix.


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## nameno (Apr 22, 2015)

nice, I really need to get into this.

Me too. I am digging it! I got to go but I'll be back in a little while.
I would like to say "thanks" for this thread.


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## bravedave (Apr 22, 2015)

So the HPS is boxed and the MH Is back on for the last couple weeks. Sorry @greasemonkeymann, not set up for 2 bulbs. Thinking my room may benefit from a couple 3ft. T5s on each side of my MH reflector next grow. My 2 rows of 3 plants will set up nicely and I rotate daily up to about week 4 in flower so all the girls will get a good taste.


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## greasemonkeymann (Apr 23, 2015)

bravedave said:


> So the HPS is boxed and the MH Is back on for the last couple weeks. Sorry @greasemonkeymann, not set up for 2 bulbs. Thinking my room may benefit from a couple 3ft. T5s on each side of my MH reflector next grow. My 2 rows of 3 plants will set up nicely and I rotate daily up to about week 4 in flower so all the girls will get a good taste.


just get some good airflow in there too, may get kinda hot in there with all those lights


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## nameno (Apr 24, 2015)

How many days of blue light does it take to be effective?


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## CloudyWeather (Apr 25, 2015)

RM3 said:


> I flower with T5's and use ATI True Actinics for UV and ATI Coral Plus for deep blue
> 
> These could be added to grows as supplemental side lighting to achieve the same results
> also don't forget the sulfur, it feeds the trics


Man Thanks for the tip. I know I've also read T5s are the most energy efficient I think I'll invest in a few of each of these since I'm stuck with fluorescents for the time being anyway. Might as well get the most out of them. I only have one type of bulb in there right now I bet my girl would love some UV and deep blue. She did great last run with just some standard fluorescents, just not super dense.


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## bravedave (May 2, 2015)

greasemonkeymann said:


> just get some good airflow in there too, may get kinda hot in there with all those lights


A little update...going on 2 weeks now since switching back to my MH because my first go with HPS "seemingly" was not producing the same level of trichs as my previous all-MH grows. Well, things have recovered in that area with the MH activation. I guess they may have shown up if I just left the HPS going but they had noticeably less trichs at day 45 than previous grows so I made the call. A little 61 day bud porn...zoom in for trich exam. In any case, I am looking forward to adding even more UV to my grow.


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## Ghettogrower187 (Jun 3, 2015)

Has been a good read lads seriously thinking about getting some uv bulbs now I think 1 each side of the 1k mh should work nice...thanks for all the tips


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## cannawizard (Jun 5, 2015)

Letstrip said:


> Here in New Zealand theirs a natural hole in the ozone layer letting more UV light through which is pretty cool, always grow good weed outside here, even the average looking shit shit can be quite good. Imagine growing up at 2500ft over here like you guys mentioned!
> 
> Found this interesting
> 
> ...


Good read, thanks for the data~

#cheers


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## HolyGhost23 (Jun 30, 2015)

okay so I did some experimenting. I wish i still had the pics but i moved and lost a lot of stuff.. but I used a 420nm t5 and a 10,000K t5 with 300W's of Cree CXA LED.. I noticed that trics were forming on the seedlings of plants I had with UV vs not. and when i added the light 2 weeks before harvest vs not.. the results were visibly different. I could see more tric development from the plants under the UV vs just LED.

so yes I think adding UV light to a grow does make a difference. and a good one at that. though i have noticed that too much UV light will hurt. as to what the limit is. I dont know. the 10,000K light might help as well.. as coral seems to like it.


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## bbyb420 (Jun 30, 2015)

HolyGhost23 said:


> okay so I did some experimenting. I wish i still had the pics but i moved and lost a lot of stuff.. but I used a 420nm t5 and a 10,000K t5 with 300W's of Cree CXA LED.. I noticed that trics were forming on the seedlings of plants I had with UV vs not. and when i added the light 2 weeks before harvest vs not.. the results were visibly different. I could see more tric development from the plants under the UV vs just LED.
> 
> so yes I think adding UV light to a grow does make a difference. and a good one at that. though i have noticed that too much UV light will hurt. as to what the limit is. I dont know. the 10,000K light might help as well.. as coral seems to like it.


Interesting. I will definetly add some supplemental UV next grow, did you have any problems with heat?


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## HolyGhost23 (Jun 30, 2015)

I never had problems with heat as I have a grow tent with a 6 inch fan. and LED lights dont make much heat.. as far as UV output though. dont put the uv lights as close to the plant as you would a normal t5.. Id say add 3 inches. youll notice if its too close with in a day


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