# 2 month old babies dying what should i do?? PLEASE HELP ME..



## dboo420 (May 24, 2010)

So i just started growing my babies about 2 months ago i started off kinda clueless of how to grow but now i think i kinda got the hint to it. But theres something wrong with them, the tips of the leaves are turning yellow then dying off.. I DONT KNOW what to do please help me! Pictures are up on my photos.


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## LorDeMO (May 24, 2010)

They look a bit small to be 2 months old :/ ..

Looks like nute burn to me, flush the pots and cut back on the nutes.


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## dboo420 (May 24, 2010)

LorDeMO said:


> They look a bit small to be 2 months old :/ ..
> 
> Looks like nute burn to me, flush the pots and cut back on the nutes.


 

Yeah i know i dont know whats wrong with them i see all these big pretty babies and look at mine and i dont understand.. i think its because of my lighting though, and for awhile i didnt have a fan with them. But i dont add anything to them but water then when they get dry i think its the soil because im using miracle grow soil. 

And how do i flush the pots?


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## BCBuddy420 (May 24, 2010)

I'm going to try and help you... I need lot's of info. Tell me what your medium is, your lighting, nutrients, temps, ventilation, anything that you are using with this grow. Then we will get to the bottom of this to get your plants on the right track.


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## BCBuddy420 (May 24, 2010)

dboo420 said:


> Yeah i know i dont know whats wrong with them i see all these big pretty babies and look at mine and i dont understand.. i think its because of my lighting though, and for awhile i didnt have a fan with them. But i dont add anything to them but water then when they get dry i think its the soil because im using miracle grow soil.
> 
> And how do i flush the pots?


you flush by watering until at least 30 percent comes out the bottom or just use 3 times the size of your pot with water. You do PH your water before it goes in don't you?


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## dboo420 (May 24, 2010)

Im going to take a picture of the set so u can see. 

But no i dont saddly im kinda clueless of what im doing.. 
my lighting is two 50 and 60 watt light bulds hanging about 4 or 5 inches above them
my ventilation is a little fan i have sitting next to my two babies blowing upwards towards the lights kinda. 
i have aluminum foil on the walls they are next to.
i started using a seedling starter soil.
and when i ran out of that when i replanted them i had to use soil with miracle grow in it, ive heard that i shouldnt use that soil but thats all i had laying around
i dont know how to check the medium if you could tell me how i can and what i should use ill let u know that 
the temps in between 70 and 80


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## BCBuddy420 (May 24, 2010)

dboo420 said:


> Im going to take a picture of the set so u can see.
> 
> But no i dont saddly im kinda clueless of what im doing..
> my lighting is two 50 and 60 watt light bulds hanging about 4 or 5 inches above them
> ...


I was gonna help u at first but then I see how it is... I don't want you to take this as me being a jerk but you don't seem serious about growing marijuana, you have no info, no equipment and your so far off track it's gonna be very hard to get your grow together. I take it you have done no reading about how to grow this plant and just sprouted seeds and threw some household lights and a fan into a closet... not a good way to go. Again no offense. I am a brand new grower myself but I read for 3-4 hours a day for 2 months and spent some serious cash on the proper neccessary equipment and products. I'm sorry but you need to do some reading, that's all I have to say. Good luck and get back to me sometime when you get serious and I will give you all the help I can, ~ ciao ~ BCbuddy


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## BCBuddy420 (May 24, 2010)

okay I feel bad about that post. sorry dude.

Go buy a 250 watt hps grow light( with a ballast and bulb ... 

- A 4 inch inline fan and some 4 inch ducting, as long as you need to exhaust it. 

- A bag of soilless medium and a few 2 gallon or 3 gallon pots with good drainage at the bottom.

- Some reflective material ( NOT TIN FOIL ) 

- a bottle of veg and flower nutrients

- a small ph test kit

- a cheap thermometer

- an air pump, air line, air stone and a big rubbermaid bin.

- some extension cords

Okay now your probably going WHAT??? I cant go find all that shit and it's too expensive. Well honestly if you go around to hydroponic stores and places like home depot, you will get all of this for under 500 bucks, pretty cheap considering you can grow and harvest your own smoke with this equipment for...as long as you want. I'm bored so if you want let's design a little grow room okay. It's up to you and only you, if you want to do this right and benefit or if you just wanna fool around and waste time growing nothing worthwhile.


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## glassblower209 (May 24, 2010)

Listen to BCBuddy420 hes on the ball for you. The only suggestion I have for you if you cant afford the equipment right now is if possible stick your babies out side and do an outdoor crop. Other than that some studying wont hurt. Also you should look into checking for male/female since you mentioned you started from seed. Males will f**k your crop up. As well as piss of every one in the area when they get hermy plants from your males pollen.


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## R3DROCk9 (May 24, 2010)

from what I recall the ph in miracle grow needs to be adjusted as MG is a lil acidic...have u tried PHing the water runoff??

There's a guy on here that wrote a book on growing with miracle grow....gardenknowm or sumthing like that...ask him...or go gt it at barnes n noble.....read it there...save your money

I'm thinking like 6.8 or maybe it was 7.1...can't remember righ now tho


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## dboo420 (May 25, 2010)

Thats the problem if i had the money to go buy all those things i would of got the best of the best for my babies. But ill go check into how much all this is gonna cost me.
the fan and lights i have, have been working for me. I take no offense to what you say i know i should have read into it more then i did but the websites i was looking into said that the lights i have would be fine for now. its not like they are even close to being in the flowering stage. but i think im just going to take my babies outside if i can find a good planting place for them. could you help me out better if i put them outside?


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## dboo420 (May 25, 2010)

glassblower209 said:


> Listen to BCBuddy420 hes on the ball for you. The only suggestion I have for you if you cant afford the equipment right now is if possible stick your babies out side and do an outdoor crop. Other than that some studying wont hurt. Also you should look into checking for male/female since you mentioned you started from seed. Males will f**k your crop up. As well as piss of every one in the area when they get hermy plants from your males pollen.


 

would it be better to just put them outside?


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## dboo420 (May 25, 2010)

R3DROCk9 said:


> from what I recall the ph in miracle grow needs to be adjusted as MG is a lil acidic...have u tried PHing the water runoff??
> 
> There's a guy on here that wrote a book on growing with miracle grow....gardenknowm or sumthing like that...ask him...or go gt it at barnes n noble.....read it there...save your money
> 
> I'm thinking like 6.8 or maybe it was 7.1...can't remember righ now tho


no i havent yet
and if the water im using's ph is off how can i fix that


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## BCBuddy420 (May 25, 2010)

dboo420 said:


> Thats the problem if i had the money to go buy all those things i would of got the best of the best for my babies. But ill go check into how much all this is gonna cost me.
> the fan and lights i have, have been working for me. I take no offense to what you say i know i should have read into it more then i did but the websites i was looking into said that the lights i have would be fine for now. its not like they are even close to being in the flowering stage. but i think im just going to take my babies outside if i can find a good planting place for them. could you help me out better if i put them outside?


yeah, it'll be 10 times easier to do it outside man. BTW u dont need the best of the best when u start, just a good basic setup and the learning/trials/tribulations begin. Get a full grow under your belt, get some money from your grom and up your setup a class, or go the same, whatever works, Im staying with soilless medium and the lights I have, only upgrades will be C02 and better ventilation, maybe some different nutrients, but thats it for awhile


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## dboo420 (May 25, 2010)

BCBuddy420 said:


> yeah, it'll be 10 times easier to do it outside man. BTW u dont need the best of the best when u start, just a good basic setup and the learning/trials/tribulations begin. Get a full grow under your belt, get some money from your grom and up your setup a class, or go the same, whatever works, Im staying with soilless medium and the lights I have, only upgrades will be C02 and better ventilation, maybe some different nutrients, but thats it for awhile


 

I know thats what i thought i had at first just the baseics until they got bigger. i put my babies outside. Im getting ready to go buy a ph tester now and look for some better soil and some nutrients you said home depot has some right, what kind should i be looking for? what type some spray should i use to keep bugs away from them? 

sorry theres so many questions for u, i just rather get a view point of a alot better grower and someone who knows what they are doing.


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## BCBuddy420 (May 25, 2010)

dboo420 said:


> I know thats what i thought i had at first just the baseics until they got bigger. i put my babies outside. Im getting ready to go buy a ph tester now and look for some better soil and some nutrients you said home depot has some right, what kind should i be looking for? what type some spray should i use to keep bugs away from them?
> 
> sorry theres so many questions for u, i just rather get a view point of a alot better grower and someone who knows what they are doing.


Okay you should ask at a garden nursery (cheapest place) for some soil with reall good drainage and water retention, I know it's a contradiction but trust me, they will know what you mean. I use a spray by SCOTTS called BUG-B-GONE it works very well. I also use a product called HOTSHOT PEST STRIPS it works great for me, not a problem since i put one of these in (cheap) I went and got you a bit of a guide for you to read...


[SIZE=+3]Beginners Guide for Growing Cannabis[/SIZE] 



 This is a beginner's best guide to growing cannabis that puts everything in plain and simple English, and doesn't go to deep into advanced gardening. This is one of the best beginner's guide to growing cannabis plants out there. 
*Indoor Cannabis Cultivation*
* Introduction: *
 Growing cannabis indoors is fast becoming an American Pastime. The reasons are varied. With the increased interest and experimentation in cannabis plant cultivation, it was inevitable that people would apply their knowledge of plant care to growing cannabis. Many of those who occasionally like to light up a joint may find it difficult to locate a source or are hesitant to deal with a perhaps unsavory element of society in procuring their grass. There is, of course, the criminal aspect of buying or selling grass; Growing cannabis is just as illegal as buying, selling, or smoking it, but growing is something you can do in the privacy of your own home without having to deal with someone you don't know or trust. The best reason for growing your own is the enjoyment you will get out of watching those tiny little you picked out of you stash, sprout and become some of the most lovely and lush of all cannabis plants. 
*Anyone Can Do It* 
 Even if you haven't had any prior experience with growing cannabis plants in you home, you can have a successful crop of cannabis plants by following the simple directions in this pamphlet. If you have had problems in the past with cannabiscultivation, you may find the solutions in the following chapters. Growing a cannabis plant involves four basic steps: 
1. Get the seeds. If you don't already have some, you can ask your friends to save you seeds out of any good grass they may come across. You'll find that lots of people already have a seed collection of some sort and are willing to part with a few prime seeds in exchange for some of the finished product. 
2. Germinate the seeds. You can simply drop a seed into moist soil, but by germinating the seeds first you can be sure that the seed will indeed produce a plant. To germinate seeds, place a group of them between about six moist paper towels, or in the pores of a moist sponge. Leave the towels or sponge moist but not soaking wet. Some seeds will germinate in 24 hours while others may take several days or even a week. 
3. Plant the sprouts. As soon as a seed cracks open and begins to sprout, place it on some moist soil and sprinkle a little soil over the top of it. 
4. Supply the plants with light. Fluorescent lights are the best. Hang the lights with two inches of the soil and after the plants appear above the ground, continue to keep the lights with two inches of the plants. It is as easy as that. If you follow those four steps you will grow a cannabis plant. To ensure prime quality and the highest yield in the shortest time period, however, a few details are necessary. 
*Soil *
 Your prime concern, after choosing high quality seeds, is the soil. Use the best soil you can get. Scrimping on the soil doesn't pay off in the long run. If you use unsterilized soil you will almost certainly find parasites in it, probably after it is too late to transplant your cannabis. You can find excellent soil for sale at your local plant shop or nursery, K-Mart, Wal Mart, and even some grocery stores. The soil you use should have these properties for the best possible results: 
1. It should drain well. That is, it should have some sand in it and also some sponge rock or pearlite.
2. The ph should be between 6.5 and 7.5 since cannabis does not do well in acidic soil. High acidity in soil encourages the plant to be predominantly male, an undesirable trait.
3. The soil should also contain humus for retaining moisture and nutrients. 
 If you want to make your own soil mixture, you can use this recipe: Mix two parts moss with one part sand and one part pearlite or sponge rock to each four gallons of soil. Test your soil for ph with litmus paper or with a soil testing kit
available at most plant stores. To raise the ph of the soil, add 1/2 lb. lime to 1 cubic foot of soil to raise the ph one point.
If you absolutely insist on using dirt you dug up from your driveway, you must sterilize it by baking it in your oven for about an hour at 250 degrees. Be sure to moisten it thoroughly first and also prepare yourself for a rapid evacuation of your
kitchen because that hot soil is going to stink. Now add to the mixture about one tablespoon of fertilizer (like Rapid-Gro) per gallon gallon of soil and blend it in thoroughly. Better yet, just skip the whole process and spend a couple bucks on some soil. 
*Containers *
 After you have prepared your soil, you will have to come up with some kind of container to plant in. The container should be sterilized as well, especially if they have been used previously for growing other plants. The size of the container has a great
deal to do with the rate of growth and overall size of the plant. You should plan on transplanting your plant not more than one time, since the process of transplanting can be a shock to the plant and it will have to undergo a recovery period in which growth is slowed or even stopped for a short while. The first container you use should be no larger than six inches in diameter and can be made of clay or plastic. To transplant, simply prepare the larger cannabis by filling it with soil and scooping out a little hole about the size of the smaller cannabis that the plant is in. Turn the plant upside down, cannabis and all, and tap the rim of the cannabis sharply on a counter or the edge of the sink. The soil and root ball should come out of the cannabis cleanly with the soil retaining the shape of the cannabis and with no disturbances to the root ball. Another method that can bypass the transplanting
problem is using a Jiffy-Pot. Jiffy pots are made of compressed peat moss and can be planted right into moist soil where they decompose and allow the passage of the root system through their walls. The second container should have a volume of at least three gallons. Cannabis doesn't like to have its roots bound or cramped for space, so always be sure that the container you use will be deep enough for your plant's root system. It is very difficult to transplant a five-foot cannabis tree, so plan ahead. It is going to get bigger. The small plants should be ready to transplant into their permanent homes in about two weeks. Keep a close watch on them after the first week or so and avoid root binding at all costs since the plants never seem to do as well once they have been stunted by the cramping of their roots. 
*Fertilizer *
 Cannabis plants like lots of food, but you can do damage to the plants if you are too zealous. Some fertilizers can burn a plant
and damage its roots if used in to high a concentration. Most commercial soil will have enough nutrients in it to sustain the
plant for about three weeks of growth so you don't need to worry about feeding your plant until the end of the third week. The most important thing to remember is to introduce the fertilizer concentration to the plant gradually. Start with a fairly diluted fertilizer solution and gradually increase the dosage. There are several good cannabis fertilizers on the commercial market, two of which are Rapid-Gro and Eco-Grow. Rapid-Gro has had widespread use in cannabis cultivation and is available in most parts of the United States. Eco-Grow is also especially good for cannabis since it contains an ingredient that keeps the soil from becoming acid. Most fertilizers cause a ph change in the soil. Adding fertilizer to the soil almost always results in a more acidic ph. 
 As time goes on, the amount of salts produced by the breakdown of fertilizers in the soil causes the soil to become
increasingly acidic and eventually the concentration of these salts in the soil will stunt the plant and cause browning out of
the foliage. Also, as the plant gets older its roots become less effective in bringing food to the leaves. To avoid the
accumulation of these salts in your soil and to ensure that your plant is getting all of the food it needs you can begin leaf
feeding your plant at the age of about 1.5 months. Dissolve the fertilizer in worm water and spray the mixture directly onto the foliage. The leaves absorb the fertilizer into their veins. If you want to continue to put fertilizer into the soil as well as
leaf feeding, be sure not to overdose your plants. 
 Remember to increase the amount of food your plant receives gradually. Cannabis seems to be able to take as much fertilizer as you want to give it as long as it is introduced over a period of time. During the first three months or so, fertilize your plants every few days. As the rate of foliage growth slows down in the plant's preparation for blooming and seed production, the fertilizer intake of the plant should be slowed down as well. Never fertilize the plant just before you are going to harvest it since the fertilizer will encourage foliage production and slow down resin production. A word here about the most organic of fertilizers: worm castings. As you may know, worms are raised commercially for sale to gardeners. The breeders put the worms in organic compost mixtures and while the worms are reproducing they eat the organic matter and expel some of the best cannabis food around. After the worms have eaten all the organic matter in the compost, they are removed and sold and the remains are then sold as worm castings. These castings are so rich that you can grow cannabis in straight worm castings. This isn't really necessary however, and it is somewhat impractical since the castings are very expensive. If you can afford them you can, however, blend them in with your soil and they will make a very
good organic fertilizer. 
*Light *
 Without light, the plants cannot grow. In the countries in which cannabis grows best, the sun is the source of light. The
amount of light and the length of the growing season in these countries results in huge tree-like plants. In most parts of
North America, however, the sun is not generally intense enough for long enough periods of time to produce the same size and quality of plants that grow with ease in Latin America and other tropical countries. The answer to the problem of lack of sun, especially in the winter months, shortness of the growing season, and other problems is to grow indoor under simulated conditions. The rule of thumb seems to be the more light, the better. In one experiment we know of, eight eight-foot VHO Gro-Lux fixtures were used over eight plants. The plants grew at an astonishing rate. The lights had to be raised every day. There are many types of artificial light and all of them do different things to your plants. The common incandescent light bulb emits some of the frequencies of light the plant can use, but it also emits a high percentage of far red and infra-red light which cause the plant to concentrate its growth on the stem. This results in the plant stretching toward the light bulb until it becomes so tall and spindly that it just weakly topples over. There are several brands of bulb type. One is the incandescent plant spot light which emits higher amounts of red and blue light than the common light bulb. It is an improvement, but has it drawbacks. it is hot, for example, and cannot be placed close to the plants. Consequently, the plant has to stretch upwards again and is in danger of becoming elongated and falling over. The red bands of light seem to encourage stem growth which is not desirable in growing cannabis. the idea is to encourage foliage growth for obvious reasons. Gro-Lux lights are probably the most common fluorescent plant lights. In our experience with them, they have
proven themselves to be extremely effective. They range in size from one to eight feet in length so you can set up a growing room in a closet or a warehouse. There are two types of Gro-Lux lights: The standard and the wide spectrum. They can be used in conjunction with on another, but the wide spectrum lights are not sufficient on their own. The wide spectrum lights were designed as a supplementary light source and are cheaper than the standard lights. Wide spectrum lights emit the same bands of light as the standard but the standard emit higher concentrations of red and blue bands that the plants need to grow. The wide spectrum lights also emit infra-red, the effect of which on stem growth we have already discussed. If you are planning to grow on a large scale, you might be interested to know that the regular flourescent lamps and fixtures, the type that are used in commercial lighting, work well when used along with standard Gro- Lux lights. These commercial lights are called cool whites, and are the cheapest of the flourescent lights we have mentioned. They emit as much blue light as the Gro-Lux standards and the blue light is what the plants use in foliage growth. 
 Now we come to the question of intensity. Both the standard and wide spectrum lamps come in three intensities: regular output, high output, and very high output. You can grow a nice crop of plants under the regular output lamps and probably be quite satisfied with our results. The difference in using the HO or VHO lamps is the time it takes to grow a crop. Under a VHO lamp, the plants grow at a rate that is about three times the rate at which they grow under the standard lamps. People have been known to get a plant that is four feet tall in two months under one of these lights. Under the VHO lights, one may have to raise the lights every day which means a growth rate of ate least two inches a day. The only drawback is the expense of the VHO lamps and fixtures. The VHO lamps and fixtures are almost twice the price of the standard. If you are interested in our opinion, they are well worth it. Now that you have your lights up, you might be curious about the amount of light to give you plants per day. The maturation date of your plants is dependent on how much light they receive per day. The longer the dark period per day, the sooner the plant will bloom. Generally speaking, the less dark per day the better during the first six months of the plant's life. The older the plant is before it blooms and goes to seed, the better the grass will be. After the plant is allowed to bloom, its metabolic rate is slowed so that the plant's quality does not increase with the age at the same rate it did before it bloomed. The idea, then, is to let the plant get as old as possible before allowing it to mature so that the potency will be a high as possible at the time of harvest. One relatively sure way to keep your plants from blooming until you are ready for them is to leave the lights on all the time. Occasionally a plant will go ahead and bloom anyway, but it is the exception rather than the rule. If your plants receive 12 hours of light per day they will probably mature in 2 to 2.5 months. If they get 16 hours of light per day they will probably be blooming in 3.5 to 4 months. With 18 hours of light per day, they will flower in 4.5 to 5 months. Its a good idea to put your lights on a timer to ensure that the amount of light received each day remains constant. A "vacation" timer, normally used to make it look like you are home while you are away, works nicely and can be found at most hardware or discount stores.  

Energy Emissions In Arbitrary Color Bands
40 Watt Fluorescent Lamps
In Watts and Percent of Total Emissions 

Daylight Cool White Gro-Lux GroLux WS
Light Type Band Watts % Watt % Watt % Watt %
~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~
Ultra-Violet -380 0.186 2.15 0.16 1.68 0.10 1.42 0.27 3.16 
Violet 380-430 0.832 9.60 0.72 7.57 0.70 9.67 1.07 12.48 
Blue 430-490 2.418 27.91 1.98 20.78 1.96 27.07 1.22 14.29 
Green 490-560 2.372 27.38 2.35 24.67  1.02 14.02 1.24 14.49 
Yellow 560-590 1.259 14.53 1.74 18.27 0.10 1.42 0.83 9.77 
Orange 590-630 1.144 13.21 1.69 17.75 0.44 6.05 1.36 15.93 
Red 630-700 0.452 6.22 0.81 8.47 2.86 39.55 1.86 21.78 
Far Red 700-780 0.130 1.53 0.07 0.81 0.06 0.80 0.69 8.10
========= ======== ========= ========== ========== ==========
Total 8.890 100.0 9.52 100.0 7.24 100.0 8.54 100.0

Temperature and Humidity 
 The ideal temperature for the light hours is 68 to 78 degrees Fahrenheit and for the dark hours there should be about a 15 degree drop in temperature. The growing room should be relatively dry if possible. What you want is a resinous coating on the leaves and to get the plant to do this, you must convince it that it needs the resinous coating on its leaves to protect itself from drying out. In an extremely humid room, the plants develop wide leaves and do not produce as much resin. You must take care not to let the temperature in a dry room become too hot, however, since the plant cannot assimilate water fast enough through its roots and its foliage will begin to brown out. 
Ventilation 
 Proper ventilation in your growing room is fairly important. The more plants you have in one room, the more important good ventilation becomes. Plants breathe through their leaves. The also rid themselves of poisons through their leaves. If proper ventilation is not maintained, the pores of the leaves will become clogged and the leaves will die. If there is a free movement of air, the poisons can evaporate off the leaves and the plant can breathe and remain healthy. 
 In a small closet where there are only a few plants you can probably create enough air circulation just by opening the door to look at them. Although it is possible to grow healthy looking plants in poorly ventilated rooms, they would be larger and healthier if they had a fresh supply of air coming in. If you spend a lot of time in your growing room, your plants will grow better because they will be using the carbon dioxide that you are exhaling around them. It is sometimes quite difficult to get a fresh supply of air in to your growing room because your room is usually hidden away in a secret corner of your house, possibly in the attic or basement. In this case, a fan will create some movement of air. It will also stimulate your plants into growing a healthier and sturdier stalk. Often times in an indoor environment, the stems of plants fail to become rigid because they don't have to cope with elements of wind and rain. To a degree, though, this is an advantage because the plant puts most of its energy into producing leaves and resin instead of stems. 
*Dehumidifying Your Growing Room *
 Cannabis that grows in a hot, dry climate will have narrower leaves than cannabis grown in a humid atmosphere. The reason is that in a dry atmosphere the plant can respirate easier because the moisture on the leaves evaporates faster. In a humid atmosphere, the moisture cannot evaporate as fast. Consequently, the leaves have to be broader with more surface area in order to expel the wastes that the plant put out. Since the broad leaves produce less resin per leaf than the narrow there will be more resin in an ounce of narrow leaves than in one ounce of broad leaves. There may be more leaf mass in the broader leafed plants, but most people are growing their own for quality rather than quantity. 
 Since the resin in the cannabis plant serves the purpose of keeping the leaves from drying out, there is more apt to be a lot of resin produced in a dry room than in a humid one. In the Sears catalog, dehumidifiers cost around $100.00 and are therefore a bit impractical for the "hobby grower." 
*Watering *
 If you live near a clear mountain stream, you can skip this bit on the quality of water. Most of us are supplied water by the city and some cities add more chemicals to the water than others. They all add chlorine, however, in varying quantities. Humans over the years have learned to either get rid of it somehow or to live with it, but your cannabis plants won't have time to acquire a taste for it so you had better see that they don't have to. Chlorine will evaporate if you let the water stand for 24 hours in an open container. Letting the water stand for a day or two will serve a dual purpose: The water will come to room temperature during that period of time and you can avoid the nasty shock your plants suffer when you drench them with cold water. Always water with room temperature to lukewarm water. If your water has an excessive amount of chlorine in it, you may want to get some anti- chlorine drops at the local fish or pet store. The most important thing about watering is to do it thoroughly. You can water a plant in a three gallon container with as much as three quarts of
water. The idea is to get the soil evenly moist all the way to the bottom of the cannabis. If you use a little water, even if you do
it often, it seeps just a short way down into the soil and any roots below the moist soil will start to turn upwards toward the water. The second most important thing about watering is to see to it that the cannabis has good drainage. There should be some holes in the bottom so that any excess water will run out. If the cannabis won't drain, the excess water will accumulate in a pocket and rot the roots of the plant or simply make the soil sour or mildew. The soil, as we said earlier, must allow the water to drain evenly through it and must not become hard or packed. If you have made sure that the soil contains sand and pearlite, you shouldn't have drainage problems. To discover when to water, feel the soil with your finger. if you feel moisture in the soil, you can wait a day or two to water. The soil near the top of the cannabis is always drier than the soil further down. You can drown your plant just as easily as you can let it get too dry and it is more likely to survive a dry spell than it is to survive a torrential flood. Water the plants well when you water and don't water them at all when they don't need it. 
*Bugs *
 If you can avoid getting bugs in the first place you will be much better off. Once your plants become infested you will
probably be fighting bugs for the rest of your plants' lives. To avoid bugs be sure to use sterilized soil and containers and don't bring other plants from outside into your growing room. If you have bets, ensure that they stay out of your growing room, since they can bring in pests on their fur. Examine your plants regularly for signs of insects, spots, holes in the leaves, browning of the tips of the leaves, and droopy branches. If you find that somehow in spite of all your precautions you have a plant room full of bugs, you'll have to spray your plants with some kind of insecticide. You'll want to use something that will kill the bugs and not you. Spider mites are probably the bug that will do the most damage to the cannabis plants. One of the reasons is that they are almost microscopic and very hard to spot. They are called spider mites because they leave a web-like substance clinging to the leaves. They also cause tiny little spots to appear on the leaves. Probably the first thing you'll notice, however, is that your plants look sick and depressed. The mites suck enzymes from the leaves and as a result the leaves lose some of their green color and glossiness. Sometimes the leaves look like they have some kid of fungus on them. The eggs are very tiny black dots. You might be wise to get a magnifying glass so that you can really scrutinize your plants closely. Be sure to examine the underside of the leaves too. The mites will often be found clinging to the underside as well as the top of the leaves. The sooner you start fighting the bugs, the easier it will be to get rid of them. For killing spider mites on cannabis, one of the best insecticides if "Fruit and Berry" spray made by llers.
Ortho also produces several insecticides that will kill mites. The ingredients to look for are Kelthane and Malatheon. Both of these poisons are lethal to humans and pets as well as bugs, but they both detoxify in about ten days so you can safely smoke the grass ten days after spraying. Fruit and Berry will only kill the adult mite, however, and you'll have to spray every four days for about two weeks to be sure that you have killed all the adults before they have had a chance to lay eggs. Keep a close watch on your plants because it only takes one egg laying adult to re- infest your plants and chances are that one or two will escape your barrage of insecticides. If you see little bugs flying around your plants, they are probably white flies. The adults are immune to almost all the commercial insecticides except Fruit and Berry which will not kill the eggs or larva. It is the larval stage of this insect that does the most damage. They suck out enzymes too, and kill your plants if they go unchecked. You will have to get on a spraying program just as was explained in the spider mite section. 
 An organic method of bug control is using soap suds. Put Ivory flakes in some lukewarm water and work up the suds into a lather. Then put the suds over the plant. The obvious disadvantage is it you don't rinse the soap off the plant you'll taste the soap when you smoke the leaves. 
*Pruning *
 We have found that pruning is not always necessary. The reason one does it in the first place is to encourage secondary growth and to allow light to reach the immature leaves. Some strands of grass just naturally grow thick and bushy and if they are not clipped the sap moves in an uninterrupted flow right to the top of the plant where it produces flowers that are thick with resin. On the other hand, if your plants appear tall and spindly for their age at three weeks, they probably require a little trimming to ensure a nice full leafy plant. At three weeks of age your plant should have at least two sets of branches or four leaf clusters and a top. To prune the plant, simply slice the top off just about the place where two branches oppose each other. Use a razor blade in a straight cut. If you want to, you can root the top in some water and when the roots appear, plant the top in moist soil and it should grow into another plant. If you are going to root the top you should cut the end again, this time with a diagonal cut so as to expose more surface to the water or rooting solution. The advantage to taking cuttings from your plant is that it produces more tops. The tops have the resin, and that's the name of the game. Every time you cut off a top, the plant seeds out two more top branches at the base of the existing branches. Pruning also encourages the branches underneath to grow faster than they normally would without the top having been cut. 
Harvesting and Curing aka Dried Cannabis 
 Well, now that you've grown your cannabis, you will want to cur it right so that it smokes clean and won't bite. You can avoid that "homegrown" taste of chlorophyll that sometimes makes one's fillings taste like they might be dissolving. We know of several methods of curing the cannabis so that it will have a mild flavor and a mellow rather than harsh smoke. 
 First, pull the plant up roots and all and hang it upside down for 24 hours. Then put each plant in a paper grocery bag with the top open for three or four days or until the leaves feel dry to the touch. Now strip the leaves off the stem and put them in a glass jar with a lid. Don't pack the leaves in tightly, you want air to reach all the leaves. The main danger in the curing process is mold. Dried cannabis smokes so good, The best dried cannabis will crumble but not turn into dust. Dry cannabis is a labor of love. If the leaves are too damp when dry cannabis you put them into the jar, they will mold and since the mold will destroy the resins, mold will ruin your cannabis. you should check the jars every day by smelling them and if you smell an acrid aroma, take the weed out of the jar and spread it out on newspaper so that it can dry quickly. Another method is to uproot the plants and hang them upside down. You get some burlap bags damp and slip them up over the plants. Keep the bags damp and leave them in the sun for at least a week. Now put the plants in a paper bag for a few days until the weed is dry enough to smoke. Like many fine things in life, dried cannabis mellows out with age. The aging process tends to remove the chlorophyll taste. 
GUIDE TO GROWING CANNABIS
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## dboo420 (May 26, 2010)

Thanks so much for all ur help! And advise & guide ill keep u posted on any more changes in the next few days


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