# AACT, Bloom Tea, Veg Tea, Fungal Tea, Myco Tea, recipes from the outdoor guys.



## malignant (Mar 29, 2012)

So there has been a bit of confusion about teas, teas are as unique as individuals brewing them. Each one unique to area, bacterial source, ratios, and needs. Different teas have different purposes. 


The Outdoor guys that are using organic teas for their crops have a thread that is organic in the outdoor section, here are their tea recipes and hopefully they will join in and discuss any thoughts, questions, and offer any guidance needed. Thank you everyone for your contributions, time and love of the trade.




dirrtyd said:


> Looking for different teas and application rates for Outdoors. I will start with some teas that I have found while reading.
> Guano Tea and Kelp:
> 
> 
> ...









LT1RX7 Drifter said:


> here is my recipe
> 1cup worm castings (blooming gardens)
> 1cup cricket poo ( cricket poo brand)
> 1 cup bat guano (whitney farms)
> ...









dirrtyd said:


> Some excerpts from CT GUY I will add more articles to this as I read them I will add a different types of teas article he has written next. Enjoy
> Recipes:
> 
> 
> ...









Corbat420 said:


> Fungi Tea's are another form of Compost tea which is rarely explored. Different forms of fungi live EVERYWHERE, some are good and some are bad. Fungal Teas use Naturaly ocuring good forms of fungi to inoculate the soil and form a symbiotic Bond with the roots of your plants. With a balance of Fungi, Bacteria and Enzymes an organic grower will be MUCH happier with the results the final product has to offer.
> 
> 
> Fungal-Dominated Compost Tea Recipe
> ...











treemansbuds said:


> Hello all-
> I was asked by Dirtyd to donate my tea recipe's to this very helpful thread.
> The tea was used with great success last season. I'm always adjusting things, but this has worked for me. This is from my thread....
> 
> ...









dirrtyd said:


> More knowledge from CTGUY:
> 
> 
> It's Tea Time!
> ...









wheezer said:


> hmmmm let's see...:
> 5 scoops of compost
> 3 scoops of chicken manure compost (veg-only)
> 2 scoops of Dr. earths bud and bloom booster 4-7-5
> ...











dirrtyd said:


> Another article that will get you to thinking. keepem green enjoy
> 
> 
> The Benefits of Worm Castings, Compost and &#8220;Tea&#8221;
> ...


veganics are another topic on their own:
https://www.rollitup.org/organics/518248-veganics-cheat-sheet.html


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## Corbat420 (Mar 29, 2012)

Very nice to see. Subbed just to let everyone know.

im usualy on daily, if not every other day. i can answer alot of the questions people need answered


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## NightbirdX (Mar 30, 2012)

Good read, lots of good info. I've been considering more "traditional" teas of late because I am switching to an amended organic soil as my base rather than a soilless. I am pretty interested in making up some teas for them. Thanks for the compilation.


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## Corbat420 (Mar 30, 2012)

> *I am switching to an amended organic soil as my base rather than a soilless.*


 good choice. most of the serious organic growers use a heavily amended super soil mixed with some very heavy teas.

its VERY hard to actually burn plants when using organics properly.


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## malignant (Mar 31, 2012)

for heavy teas i just use plain water with a little molasses in between, and ill feed 1x weekly until 2nd stage of bloom kicks in then i feed 2x weekly.


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## zippertrauma (Apr 11, 2012)

NightbirdX said:


> Good read, lots of good info. I've been considering more "traditional" teas of late because I am switching to an amended organic soil as my base rather than a soilless. I am pretty interested in making up some teas for them. Thanks for the compilation.


i use a heavily amended soil mix. i use beneficial teas that don't necessarily have any many added nutrients. they feed the micro heard in the soil so i only have to feed once a month in veg using this method, in flower i feed every watering because organics is the shit and you dont get burn just expolding plants. if interested in my recipe let me know.


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## malignant (Apr 12, 2012)

post it up!


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## Dank Raptor (Apr 13, 2012)

Just mixed up a Fungal dominant brew.

I use the method of cultivating fungi in a 50/50 mix of soil and compost. Add 2 tblspoons/cup of oat bran. Innoculate the mix with spores and put in 80 degree temp for 3-5 days to grow mycellium. Stuff the fungi compost in some pantyhose and brew for 18-24 hours. Try to avoid longer times because this can make your brew go bacterial. (not necessarily bad)

Fulvic Acid 2 ml/gl
Soft Rock Phosphate 
Liquid Kelp 4ml/gl
Molasses .5ml/gl (very little dont want bacteria)
Humic Acid 1 ml/gl
Liquid Fish Hydrolysate 4ml/gl

This is great for flowering to increase your phosphorus solubulizing fungi. These microbes mineralize phosphorus for your plant. Guaranteed chunkier girls if you brew this!


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## Da Almighty Jew (Apr 13, 2012)

ever since i started to use teas i been able to feed really heavy with organics without burning at all.


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## Corbat420 (Apr 13, 2012)

Da Almighty Jew said:


> ever since i started to use teas i been able to feed really heavy with organics without burning at all.


 dam rights man. one of the things people don't understand about Organics is the amount of nutrients marijuana can uptake. The salts in Synthetic fertilizers (Such as potassium Sulfide and Sodium Nitrate, both common ingredient for synthesizing hydro nutes.......) cause such harm to the soil and plants in larger doses that its almost inhumane  some of the things i see people putting into their reservoirs is just sad....

Organics don't have any salts, any harmful acids or bases, any Harmful ingredients and most of all... Organics don't have to degrade the planet to grow plants (such a stupid thing...). Organics is sustainable which puts it FAR above any other methods


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## Futurama89 (Apr 13, 2012)

So in theory by adding teas or only feeding with teas(nutes in tea) i allow my plant to be able to uptake more nutrients because the microbes will digest the nutrients and make them more readily avalible for my plants. and at the same time i will reduce the risk of burning my plants because im increasing my microbial and fungal life?

so basically a Great Tea Mix=Being able to feed more and metabolize the plant more AKA larger greater yields?


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## Rising Moon (Apr 17, 2012)

I have posted this before but, it needs to be mentioned in this thread, otherwise Ill feel like I didn't contribute to my favorite subject...

Great list, just a few things I would add...

A couple of major tea herbs have been left out of this list that should definitely be included.

*Comfrey* - Major source of NPK as well as other micro nutrients and minerals mined from the Earth's subsoil.

*Stinging Nettle* - Another great balanced source of NPK, large amounts of Calcium and other minerals and vitamin C, used in Bio-Dynamic farming to give intelligence to the soil.

"Stinging nettle stimulates soil health, providing plants with the individual nutrition components needed. It enlivens the earth and helps to release iron into the soil. Helps to improve the potency of plants by increasing their sensitivity and individualizing them to their surroundings. Improves the nutritive qualities of plants. Mars forces are said to manifest in stinging nettle."

*Chamomile* - Full of minerals and other plant stimulating compounds, chamomile teas can boost the plants own immunity to disease or pests, and help balance and regulate plant growth.

*Valerian* - Source of minerals and phosphorus.

"Valerian helps to concentrate phosphorous in the plant and this in turn aids with the plants capacity to attract light in the photosynthesis process. It stimulates the phosphate activating bacteria in the soil. Valerian deals with the forces from Saturn."

*Dandelion* (flowers and leaves) - NPK, minerals, immune boosting properties, used in Bio-Dynamic farming to help plants "tune in" the the environment and draw nutrients or needed minerals where they are needed.

"Dandelion gives the soil a living, ethereal quality with the ability to supply the substances a plant needs. It increases a plants sensitivity and helps it to attract beneficial elements from a wider area. Dandelion works strongly with silica and potassium and, via silica, draws in forces from the outer planets, particularly Jupiter."

*Yarrow* - Contains potassium, selenium and sulfur, used in Bio-Dynamic farming to "bring light forces into the soil via its connection with sulfur, helping spirit to penetrate matter and enables it to attract trace elements. Important for reproduction and growth. Venus forces are said to manifest in yarrow."

*White Oak Bark* - Combats disease, used in Bio-Dynamic farming to "work very strongly with calcium and is an excellent remedy for plant diseases including fungus. It helps to restore balance with the ether body of the plant and control rampant growth. Moon forces become active in the plant in a healthy manner with oak bark. Extended use of the oak bark will help to raise the ph of the soil without the need to add lime."

All text in "quotes" was taken from http://cityfoodgrowers.com.au/biody_...eB7RCzlHYx-gCf

All of these herbal teas can be brewed a number of ways, and the Bio-Dynamic people have their own ways of doing each one, however, based on my experience and intuition, whether you simply throw the stuff in a bucket for 2 weeks, use a small air stone and molasses to brew up some microbes, or bio-ferment and bury them in the earth according to the celestial movements... Anyway you use them, they will help. 

Personally, I brew the herbs up altogether, individually or in mixes, in cheese cloth, usually with a bit of home made worm castings, in PH neutral filtered water. I add a couple tablespoons of raw honey and bubble them with an air stone for 3 days.
(I have gone up to 5 days, but the thick head of bacterial foam seems to peak around 3 days)
I use it 8:1 10:1 12:1 or 15:1. 

Also, if you do not grow your own herbs (very easy and beautiful to do in any yard, most being perennials) make sure you buy organically grown herbs, the microbes your trying to grow do not like chemicals (pesticides, fungicides and tap water) But when I run out of my own, I buy all these herbs for CHEAP in bulk at an organic tea shop.

Thanks for reading!


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## georgyboy (Apr 17, 2012)

A question about the amount of tea needed to apply to a given area. I commonly see the 20 gallons an acre suggestion. Cool, but I'm not growing anything near an acre. My outdoor veggie garden is only 132 sq feet, and Inside I would never have more than 20 gallons of soil in containers. An acre is 43,560 sq feet according to wikipedia. That means my garden is one third of one percent of an acre. One third of one percent of a gallon is .o6 gallons, or almost one cup. One cup will not water 132 sq feet. I saw that a tea could be diluted down to 5:1 water with tea, but that still only gives me six cups, not even a half gallon. Also, what does the term soil drench mean, is that soaking the soil heavily or just a typical watering of the soil.


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## Rising Moon (Apr 18, 2012)

Dont get caught up in plot sizes and square feet etc...

Measure per plant.

For example...

If you are growing 6 plants, and you water 1 gallon per plant each watering, brew about 1 gallon of tea, and dilute 1:6. Simple

If you want to run teas, plan on brewing up a batch every 3-5 days throught the entire grow.

Soil drench to me means, fully saturate the soil, but not to the point of runoff.


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## Corbat420 (Apr 18, 2012)

> *If you are growing 6 plants, and you water 1 gallon per plant each watering, brew about 1 gallon of tea, and dilute 1:6. Simple
> 
> If you want to run teas, plan on brewing up a batch every 3-5 days throught the entire grow.
> *


^ Good advice. alltho, i am a little confised on where you guys are getting these "ratios"......

i use teas every watering.... at 50/50 water/tea, and 100% tea once a month.... a ratio of 1:5 would be useless in terms of nutrients, and hardly worth it for bacteria. 



> *Soil drench to me means, fully saturate the soil, but not to the point of runoff. *


Its to the point where the entire pot is drenched with water. it takes a bit of run off to do this.... some run off is a good thing, it shows that the entire pot can be filled with roots. no run off = Dry spots in the soil.


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## georgyboy (Apr 18, 2012)

Thanks for the responses guys. Is it safe to fertilize with straight tea? I just did my first ever organic feeding, I fed with a gallon of water, 1Tbsp of liquid fish and 1Tbsp of molasses. I just put the stuff in the gallon, gave it a shake, and did a soil drench. Am I doing the right thing here?


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## Rising Moon (Apr 18, 2012)

Corbat420 said:


> ^ Good advice. alltho, i am a little confised on where you guys are getting these "ratios"......
> 
> i use teas every watering.... at 50/50 water/tea, and 100% tea once a month.... a ratio of 1:5 would be useless in terms of nutrients, and hardly worth it for bacteria.


Agreed, I just threw out the 1:5 to be on the safe side, not knowing how exactly the tea was made. I tend to brew my teas very concentrated, with lots of traditional tea herbs, castings, molasses, raw honey and canna bio flores. I am skeptical that I would be able to use my brews at 100%, but Ive tried 50/50 ratio with good results.

My avatar dont lie...


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## Corbat420 (Apr 19, 2012)

> *very concentrated, with lots of traditional tea herbs, castings, molasses, raw honey and canna bio flores. I am skeptical that I would be able to use my brews at 100%*


per 5 gallons water:
15 Ml bat guano (N)
1/2 cup EWC
15 ML wood ash

30 ML Morbloom
15 ML Kelp
15 ML Mollasses
10 Ml Organic-B
7.5 ml Liquid karma
5 Ml Black storm

^ I use this @ 100% every 2 weeks.... organics is almost impossible to burn plants 

View attachment 2128542View attachment 2128543

Theres a measuring stick in the back of the pick if you look.... you can see the 2 and 3 feet marks  (Measured from the trunk.)


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## StickeeGreens (Apr 21, 2012)

Great info guys i truly appreciate it! This is my first post in almost a year and damn it feels good to be back. Im new to this tea idea and im trying to develope my own brew for flowering and this truly helped!!!! thanks dudes


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## Rising Moon (Apr 21, 2012)

Corbat420 said:


> per 5 gallons water:
> 15 Ml bat guano (N)
> 1/2 cup EWC
> 15 ML wood ash
> ...


I can see using this at 100%

I follow a similar recipe, but I use way less water, 1 gallon.

I tried brewing up bigger batches, but couldn't use them all up (wasteful, especially during winter with no garden to dump on)

So I just experimented with less and less water, and the same ratios of raw materials, and diluted them a bit (1:3-1:6) so far so good!


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## Hemlock (Apr 24, 2012)

Really enjoying this thread off to build a brewer today.

Subbed for the ride


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## puppasmurf (Apr 25, 2012)

Corbat420 said:


> good choice. most of the serious organic growers use a heavily amended super soil mixed with some very heavy teas.
> 
> its VERY hard to actually burn plants when using organics properly.


What are we meaning by saying Amended oranic growers? correct em if im wrong does it mean. Organic soil mixed with compost or peat moss coco perlite?


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## Hemlock (Apr 25, 2012)

puppasmurf said:


> What are we meaning by saying Amended oranic growers? correct em if im wrong does it mean. Organic soil mixed with compost or peat moss coco perlite?




I think so


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## Triggertrevor (Apr 25, 2012)

zippertrauma said:


> i use a heavily amended soil mix. i use beneficial teas that don't necessarily have any many added nutrients. they feed the micro heard in the soil so i only have to feed once a month in veg using this method, in flower i feed every watering because organics is the shit and you dont get burn just expolding plants. if interested in my recipe let me know.


Phi zipper I'm very new to teas and would love some advise on your teas and your soil mixes.

Cherrs


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## Corbat420 (Apr 25, 2012)

puppasmurf said:


> What are we meaning by saying Amended oranic growers? correct em if im wrong does it mean. Organic soil mixed with compost or peat moss coco perlite?


Actualy using Heavily amended SOILS means using more nutrients than the plants can up-take.

AKA mixing 150 ML Blood meal + 150 ML Bat guano (N) to 5 gallons of soil. the N produced over the course of time makes it so the plant allways has N available to it, Bat guano's for short term and Blood meal for the long term.

This can be done with every nutrient a plant needs. Adding a Heavy Tea on top of this makes it so the plant has literally 110% of the nutrients it needs to live, without burning the plants....

Subcools Supersoil is an example of Heavily amended super soils:


> *8 large bags of high quality organic potting soil with coco and Mycorrhizae
> 25-50 lbs. of organic worm castings
> 5 lbs. of Blood meal 12-0-0
> 5 lbs. Bat guano 0-5-0
> ...


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## qazy (Apr 25, 2012)

Am I the only one that burned the plant with AACT? For me it seems that every time I use one, the plant is getting burned a little.
My last recipe is:
1 Gallon of water
1 Tea Spoon Molasses
Half a cup on Worm Castings
Handful of Alfalfa Hay
1 sheet of Kelp
1 sheet of Nori (sushi sea weed)
2 Table spoons of shrimp waste 

Using about 1part water 3parts tea.


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## Corbat420 (Apr 25, 2012)

> *For me it seems that every time I use one, the plant is getting burned a little.*


have you checked to make sure they are fertilizer grade ingredients?

if they are not food / fertilizer grade then they can change the PH of the Tea drastically and cause lock-out. i recently locked out my plants because i accidently spiked the PH to 7.5.... VERY bad, 1 full point above normal...

The PH spiked because i didn't identify s batch of wood ashes.... ALLWAYS make sure you check your ingredients.


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## qazy (Apr 26, 2012)

> *have you checked to make sure they are fertilizer grade ingredients?*


I am not sure what fertilizer grade ingredients are to be honest. I never hears of organic fertilize grade ingredients. Honestly that sounds kinda stupid.
But all ingredients I use are bought from different stores.
Molasses - Health store
Worm Castings - Local Farm
Alfalfa - Pet store
Kelp and Nori - Asian grocery store
Shrimp waste - waste from eatable shrimps.


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## tripboufe (Apr 26, 2012)

qazy i was thinking on using a tea just lyk urs.. but without shrimp and alfalfa.. i can add alfalfa how would it aid??


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## Corbat420 (Apr 26, 2012)

> *I am not sure what fertilizer grade ingredients are to be honest. *


its NOT stuff from a gerocery store or pet store, thats for sure....

View attachment 2140942

Fertalizer grade bat guano. its PH'ed at 6.5, N-P-K of 1-10-0.2, has many trace elements and can be made readily available for plant uptake.

Things that are made for humans and fish have a totally different make up than things made for plants.....


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## qazy (Apr 27, 2012)

2Corbat bat guano is quite a particular example:
1. People or animals usually do not eat bat guano
2. Most of bat guano is pasteurized, as most, not all, bats are carnivorous. 

Compost piles are usually done with leftover of what you eat or buy. Worms are usually fed same things you might eat, or newspapers. I do not think my grandmother used to buy "fertilized" grade food for her compost.

I am not saying that there is no such things, but based on my reading and common sense, fertilizer grade ingredients is more of a marketing.

2tripboufe, I am not just a noob in this area, so I would not follow my steps, but experimenting is definitely good. Alfalfa adds Nitrogen and give food for bacteria, also adds some micro nutrients for the plant. If you google a bit, there are Alfalfa Teas. It's pretty cheap so I decided to use it.


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## Corbat420 (Apr 27, 2012)

> *1. People or animals usually do not eat bat guano
> 2. Most of bat guano is pasteurized, as most, not all, bats are carnivorous. *


People dont eat Cow manure ethier, Yet we know how good it is for growing plants.... Hmmm.... Also, Guano's and Manures Pastureize themselves. its a well known fact that poop heats up as it degrades, when in large piles it pasturizes its self when turned.



> *Compost piles are usually done with leftover of what you eat or buy. Worms are usually fed same things you might eat, or newspapers. I do not think my grandmother used to buy "fertilized" grade food for her compost.
> *


#1 compost piles, Especialy OLD compost piles (From way back in the day) were made up of Naturaly grown organic mulch. if you had a compost, it was because you had a garden... the compost is a Direct result of things Humans do not eat.... 

#2 Your Grama's compost would have been made specificly from things humans DONT eat. remember, 50+ years ago people ate EVERYTHING on their plates. the husks and shells were the only things thrown away.



> *but based on my reading and common sense*


Based on common sense you would THINK and realize "Oh shit, if i put Alfalfa that PH 5 into my PH 7 soil, it will Mess shit up". THATS common sense..... but common sense isn't so common anymore, we have gone through a massive dumbing down of society.


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## qazy (Apr 27, 2012)

> *People dont eat Cow manure ethier, Yet we know how good it is for growing plants.... Hmmm.... Also, Guano's and Manures Pastureize themselves. its a well known fact that poop heats up as it degrades, when in large piles it pasturizes its self when turned.*


Do you suggest using human's, dog's and other carnivorous manures then? Even after composting?



> *#2 Your Grama's compost would have been made specificly from things humans DONT eat. remember, 50+ years ago people ate EVERYTHING on their plates. the husks and shells were the only things thrown away.*


Even supposing this is true, there were no leftovers and everybody ate everything on their plates. The shells and husk are still from the same products. They were never PHed or processed in any way. I bet most of the old farmers do not even know what PH is and what it's for. My grandparents for sure do not.



> *Based on common sense you would THINK and realize "Oh shit, if i put Alfalfa that PH 5 into my PH 7 soil, it will Mess shit up". THATS common sense..... but common sense isn't so common anymore, we have gone through a massive dumbing down of society. *


In theory the soil should be able to balance the PH back to normal, even if the PH of the nutes is of. Practically I would not be so certain, but I would like to know who PHs their compost for example. Or any of the ingredients that are being used. 
To be honest, how do you imagine alfalfa's or kelp's acidity being adjust, ffs they are plants.


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## Corbat420 (Apr 27, 2012)

> *Do you suggest using human's, dog's and other carnivorous manures then? Even after composting?*


Actualy, i Learned from FDD2BLK that Carnivorous Guano's are good. hell, Great even. Carnivorous bat guano, Cat feces and dog feces (if composted) supply tonnes of N and K to plants....



> *In theory the soil should be able to balance the PH back to normal, even if the PH of the nutes is of.*


No actualy, soils range a HUGE amount. the Soils in my area (Pine forest) are around 5.7, where as the Soils in an Equatorial Rainforest are closer to 8..... Different plants need different things.....



> *how do you imagine alfalfa's or kelp's acidity being adjust, ffs they are plants. *


Only certain varieties of Kelp and Alfalfa are used for agricultural use. all of Which have had a full analysis done of the nutrients involved.... like i said before, Different plants need different things.

To be Honest, you should RESEARCH before opening your mouth..... look to the left, Below my Avatar, see the Journal entries: 1... Go there... learn....



> *Module 2:* *Plant Nutrition and Soil Fertility*. Covers the 17 elements essential for plant nutrition; macronutrients and micronutrients; the function and mobility of nutrients within plants; the forms of each nutrient that are taken up by plants; typical nutrient plant concentrations; how nutrient needs change during the growing season; the basics of nutrient intake; and the basics of how nutrients are held or released by the soil. http://landresources.montana.edu/nm/Modules/NM 2 mt44492.pdf
> 
> *Module 8: Soil pH and Organic Matter*. Learn about soil pH is and how it is calculated; understand how soil pH affects nutrient availability in the soil; learn techniques for managing soil pH and the processes of soil organic matter cycling; and understand the role of soil organic matter in nutrient and organic carbon management. http://landresources.montana.edu/nm/Modules/Module8.pdf
> 
> *Module 9: Plant Nutrient Functions and Deficiency and Toxicity Symptoms*. Identify and diagnose common plant nutrient deficiency and toxicity symptoms, know potential limitations of visual diagnosis, understand how  to use a key for identifying deficiency symptoms. and distinguish between mobile and immobile nutrient deficiencies. http://landresources.montana.edu/nm/Modules/NM 9 mt44499.pdf


those are from the University of Montana, Nutrient Management Program. Read them and learn how plants work, it will save you alot of stress in the long run....

P.S: Just for the record, Farmers have been "Balancing the soil" AKA Balancing the PH levels for hundreds of years. thats why in the 1300's English farmers would rotate crops using the 3 Crop system..... Every 2 years the crops would be rotated and mulch would be added the the one field not being used... to add nutrients and balance the PH


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## Kalyx (Apr 27, 2012)

This is a great thread. Thanks for starting/compiling this malignant. I had this posted somewhere else but it seems a more relevant side by side for this thread. I got started on this cause someone was asking if anyone ever ran any roots brand soil, and these ladies loved their 707 mix! This side by side test was the second to last run I did before switching to try out Rize Up style veganic grows for the utmost quality claims, which involves a lot of beneficial microbes via compost tea (every other watering for me). Anyway...

*

This round also in Roots 707 watered every 4-5 days. Both plants are Subs Agent Orange. Left plant was fed GO full line and yielded 130 grams of high quality. Right plant was fed ONLY (~24 hour brewed) compost Tea's based on Vital Earth's chart every other watering(just not using all THEIR products)(yes, i did use that much guano and it did not burn my plant, it loved it actually, I know its not vegan but it was a big learning experience on the power of AACTs for me) and she yielded 138 grams of higher quality, much more complex flavor profile and denser, stickier nugs! AACT for the win!!! The AACT plant didn't look bigger at all but weighed in more, and sure was prettier!​
​

**

Agent Pics: 1)Both plants under 1000w 2)Detail comparison (GO left, AACT right) 3)GO detail 4)AACT detail 5)AACT detail @8wks 6)AACT detail on trim table​
​

*

Just took a smooth toke of some of the AACT plants' buds topped of with 38 micron wax made with the sugar leaves. MMMmmm orangey!
So needless to say I really liked the results of the test. AACT is really great because it gives me, the grower (no one else is more tuned in to them than dad), the ability to make my own custom nutrient. AND this nutrient source is much more affordable as far of cost of inputs compared to relying on bottled products. I like that I can easily obtain some of the ingredients at stores I get my own food from and agree that there is no need for "fertilizer grade" this sounds like the marketing dept. to me! It IS important to source the purest actually organic inputs you can IMO (water too), and local is extra sweet if you can find the right connections (i.e. get inputs for free or trade). TIME is to be considered too; to make the RO amount needed, put together the materials in the sock 24-36 hours before you need it, bubble for one hour THEN feed them, preparing 'santa's beard' in advance to give fungi a head start, etc. But its nothing a good calendar/alarms on the phone can't facilitate! Time is really all we have, I am not opposed to dedicating a bit more to my garden, this wonderful resin does so much for me in return!


My big questions to ask the organic AACT forum are about dilution:

1. Who dilutes, if so, what is your approximate dilution ratio and what are your inputs per gallon, if not, how heavy per gallon are your inputs?

2. Why do you think this is/isn't necessary for your roots/media/application techniques?


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## qazy (Apr 28, 2012)

> *Actualy, i Learned from FDD2BLK that Carnivorous Guano's are good. hell, Great even. Carnivorous bat guano, Cat feces and dog feces (if composted) supply tonnes of N and K to plants....*


No doubt that carnivorous manure is nutrition. But I always read that it's use is not advised in crops. But sure, feel free to use any kind of shit when you grow for yourself.



> *Only certain varieties of Kelp and Alfalfa are used for agricultural use. all of Which have had a full analysis done of the nutrients involved.... like i said before, Different plants need different things.*


Really, 0_o source please!



> *No actualy, soils range a HUGE amount. the Soils in my area (Pine forest) are around 5.7, where as the Soils in an Equatorial Rainforest are closer to 8..... Different plants need different things.....*


I never said that the soil is the always the same acidity. My point was, if your soil neutral for example (7), by adding nutrient with acidity level of 6, you wont dis-balance the soil PH level. It will maintain it self a 7. Of course, after years of abuse you can harm it.



> *P.S: Just for the record, Farmers have been "Balancing the soil" AKA Balancing the PH levels for hundreds of years. thats why in the 1300's English farmers would rotate crops using the 3 Crop system..... Every 2 years the crops would be rotated and mulch would be added the the one field not being used... to add nutrients and balance the PH *


And they still did not know what PH was! They did what they observed helped them. They still used non PHed water. Non PHed compost and non PHed elements. And somehow, miraculously, they still were manage to survive winters eating their harvests.


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## SirLancelot (Apr 28, 2012)

Chicken poop is pretty bomb for your soil too. keep a few in your garden let em eat the bugs off your plants and shit all over.


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## SirLancelot (Apr 28, 2012)

Corbat420 said:


> P.S: Just for the record, Farmers have been "Balancing the soil" AKA Balancing the PH levels for hundreds of years. thats why in the 1300's English farmers would rotate crops using the 3 Crop system..... Every 2 years the crops would be rotated and mulch would be added the the one field not being used... to add nutrients and balance the PH


ah man was just going to say this that's why they people in Europe had to rotate corn crops. Just a little history lesson bet you didn't know that the Industrial Revolution in Great Britain is due to the introduction of the Potato to the diet in Europe. When people grow corn it takes alot of nutrients out of the soils and such which is why they rotate (we all know this, just clarifying). Once the potato was introduced they were now able to plant in all their fields without problems of rotating thus they could produce more food. Once they started producing more food their population BOOMEd I don't know the statistics off hand but there is a huge coorelation between the introduction of the Potato and the population boom. anyways now that they don't have a scarce food and are able to maintain bigger populations and essentially have time to do other things than just farm food... the Industrial Revolution was born..

Sorry that was my morning rant to go with my coffee and blunt. 
Happy growings..

Oh BTW Teas ROCK! I used to make em just for my MJ now they get jealous because all my plants and garden get them 

Just curious what does everyone do with the sludge in the bottome of your teas? I just throw mine in the compost...


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## dvs1038 (Apr 28, 2012)

1 cup of cricket poo, damn I wonder how small the pooper scooper is that the guy uses to collect all that cricket poo?


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## SirLancelot (Apr 28, 2012)

dvs1038 said:


> 1 cup of cricket poo, damn I wonder how small the pooper scooper is that the guy uses to collect all that cricket poo?


 tweazers and magnifying glasses hunched over a table for 8hrs a day hahaha


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## Corbat420 (Apr 28, 2012)

> *Chicken poop is pretty bomb for your soil too. keep a few in your garden let em eat the bugs off your plants and shit all over. *


Another CARNIVOROUS Manure... Hmm, interesting, more people like to use Carnivorous manures....... Chickens eat insects, just like Carnivorous bats.... There is a WIDE veriety of Carnivorous manures out there for commercial purchase.



> * if your soil neutral for example (7), by adding nutrient with acidity level of 6, you wont dis-balance the soil PH level.*


Believe whatever you want kid. Theres a reason people who use Hydro nutes FLUSH their plants duering the veg period... its because the nutrients change the PH of the soil.

*Plain and simple: i have a UNIVERSITY Study course backing me up... what do you have? your personal opinion? well guess what... Personal Opinions DON'T MATTER when dealing with facts....* http://landresources.montana.edu/nm/



SirLancelot said:


> ah man was just going to say this that's why they people in Europe had to rotate corn crops. Just a little history lesson bet you didn't know that the Industrial Revolution in Great Britain is due to the introduction of the Potato to the diet in Europe. When people grow corn it takes alot of nutrients out of the soils and such which is why they rotate (we all know this, just clarifying). Once the potato was introduced they were now able to plant in all their fields without problems of rotating thus they could produce more food. Once they started producing more food their population BOOMEd I don't know the statistics off hand but there is a huge coorelation between the introduction of the Potato and the population boom. anyways now that they don't have a scarce food and are able to maintain bigger populations and essentially have time to do other things than just farm food... the Industrial Revolution was born..
> 
> Sorry that was my morning rant to go with my coffee and blunt.
> Happy growings..


 Thank you sir, for restoring some of my Faith in this forum....



> *1 cup of cricket poo*


Wow... if a poop is 1% of body weight, and a cricket weights like... 100 Mg, then how many crickets have to poop to fill up that cup?


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## bonkia (Apr 28, 2012)

Im new to the teas excited to give it a try wanted to get some veteran input! 
Mycos mycrorizea
sea bird guano 
sea kelp 
worm castings 
Molasses 
humic acid 
fulvic acid 
catlyst 

From what i was told when the tea is half empty all i need to do is add molasses and everything will recoliniz... Which sounds false to me


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## Corbat420 (Apr 28, 2012)

> *From what i was told when the tea is half empty all i need to do is add molasses and everything will recoliniz... Which sounds false to me *


If making a purly Bacterial then yes. But nutrient teas need nutrients to be added as well.

Never use Fungal spores (Such as Myco's) with Humic or Fulvic acid. it will kill the fungus.. use the acid one watering, then the fungus the next. feed the fungus directly into the soil... other than that your good to go


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## bonkia (Apr 28, 2012)

See, one post and i already saved time and money! Thanks for the help!


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## bonkia (Apr 28, 2012)

Im growing in cocoa btw, i was useing gh however, after doing some lurking im going to swtich to dyna gro.


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## qazy (Apr 28, 2012)

Excuse me sir - university degree. Keep PHing kelp and Alfalfa, and do not use anything that mother nature gives you without treatment. Everyone knows that university degree its all you need. I would assume you only buy thing from "proper hydrophobic" stores, because it's the only place that sell so called "fertilizer grade" ingredients.


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## Corbat420 (Apr 28, 2012)

> *university degree. *


Who said that? Now your putting words in people's mouths? gota be going prighty low to try that. heres an exact quote....



> *i have a UNIVERSITY Study course backing me up
> *http://landresources.montana.edu/nm/





> * I would assume you only buy thing from "proper hydrophobic" stores*


No actualy, i test it MY SELF.... you know, you CAN to that... WOW
View attachment 2144894
PH, N, P and K test kits... like $50 for like 100 of every pellet, and the 4 testers.....



> *it's the only place that sell so called "fertilizer grade" ingredients*


See above statement. its Called a soil test kit...


*I've been saying this the whole time, if you would do a little research, you would know these things....*


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## qazy (Apr 28, 2012)

> *Who said that? Now your putting words in people's mouths? gota be going prighty low to try that. heres an exact quote....*


Sorry m8, I was in hurry. That's true, university course, my bad there.

My point is, that you can test every milligram of what you are adding to your tea or compost. If you have time means and desire, go ahead. But I am saying it's not necessary. Most people don't do it, and especially older generations of farmers or "village" people never did. And their crops were not bad a at all. It possible that by doing all that shenanigans you can improve your harvest let say by 10%, but honestly unless you grow for profit - day to day ingredients will do just fine. And especially when you consider that every 4 month, more or less, you will change your soil for the new batch.


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## Corbat420 (Apr 28, 2012)

> *you can test every milligram of what you are adding to your tea or compost.*


Make large controlled batches.... everything in the batch has the same nutrient content. plain and simple...



> *especially older generations of farmers or "village" people never did. And their crops were not bad a at all. *


You keep bringing up this thing about "Older generations" Well geuss what? i have some news for you. the Planet has been Salted. almost nothing grown in todays society was anything CLOSE to 100 years ago, let alone an Era ago.

You want to know what it was like back in the day? goto AMISH country. they will SHOW you what i mean by balancing crops and land.



> *And especially when you consider that every 4 month, more or less, you will change your soil for the new batch.*


WOW how far behind ARE you? Seriously, no GOOD organic growers throw soil out. 

Heres some info to catch you up....



> Originally posted by 3LB/3 Little Birdie's
> Reposted by BlueBear Jan 8, 2007
> Organic Gold III - Soil Heresy by 3LB
> soil heresy by the 3LB ~ CW
> ...





> *It possible that by doing all that shenanigans you can improve your harvest let say by 10%, but honestly unless you grow for profit*


^ Just for the record here... i DO grow for Profit, and i harvest 448 Grams every 8~ Weeks from a 1000W Flowering room, and 400W Veg room to Augment my income a little.



> *research*


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## qazy (Apr 29, 2012)

> *WOW how far behind ARE you? Seriously, no GOOD organic growers throw soil out.*


Who said anything about throwing it out?



> *You keep bringing up this thing about "Older generations" Well geuss what? i have some news for you. the Planet has been Salted. almost nothing grown in todays society was anything CLOSE to 100 years ago, let alone an Era ago.
> 
> You want to know what it was like back in the day? goto AMISH country. they will SHOW you what i mean by balancing crops and land.*


I was about to post more points, but then realized that this will continue the vicious circle and we will never stop. You grow for profit, I understand that your really need to have ROI in consideration. I grow for personal pleasure and peace of mind and my time is limited. 

And just for the record, I do not need to go to any Amish place. My grandparents, grow all their own vegetable, fruits and berries that last them year around since they were born because their parents used to do the same (Yes they live in the village). The only thing they buy is meat and dairy products.


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## Corbat420 (Apr 29, 2012)

> *Who said anything about throwing it out?*


You did. heres an Exact quote....



> *especially when you consider that every 4 month, more or less, you will change your soil for the new batch. *


^ See. you said change your soil out, which means dropping the old soil for new soil.....

Soil is Generaly used for 3 grows, composted for 6 months to a year and then re-used..... Never stitched out. once you have soil composting, you have soil for ever....




> *My grandparents, grow all their own vegetable, fruits and berries that last them year around since they were born*


This doesn;t change the fact that they were born less than 80 Years ago. They have to be younger than 80 to be able to competently grow all of their own foods.... Meaning they were Born in the depression Era... Yea they may know how to Save and use what they have, but its nothing like the way people lives 300 years ago.

Amish people live by a Religous standard which does not let their society move beyond the 1700's. Many, if not all of the methods used by Amish people were the EXACT methods being used 300-400 Years ago.....



> *Yes they live in the village*


 i live in a "Village". The definition of Villige is a group of houses and associated buildings, larger than a hamlet and smaller than a town, situated in a rural area..... This matters? there are 1300 people within 15 miles of me, 90% of them BUY their own food....




> *I was about to post more points, but then realized that this will continue the vicious circle and we will never stop*


Actualy, it would be good if you would keep posting. MANY of the things you are trying to say have been said, and proven wrong in the past. Those threads are lost now, But this thread is Stickied.... So far, i have been able to give information on University Study guides, Soil test kits, Explain agriculture 300+ Years ago and how its still relevant As well as Educating people about Fertilizer grade ingredients..... 

All in all, i say thank you for Raising these subjects...


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## qazy (Apr 29, 2012)

> *^ See. you said change your soil out, which means dropping the old soil for new soil.....*


Change != throw out. As you said don't put words in my mouth.



> *This doesn;t change the fact that they were born less than 80 Years ago. They have to be younger than 80 to be able to competently grow all of their own foods.... Meaning they were Born in the depression Era... Yea they may know how to Save and use what they have, but its nothing like the way people lives 300 years ago.
> 
> Amish people live by a Religous standard which does not let their society move beyond the 1700's. Many, if not all of the methods used by Amish people were the EXACT methods being used 300-400 Years ago.....
> *


Are you high right now? WTF dude? You are going to tell me what my family grow/grew/will grow. Seriously man get real. 



> *i live in a "Village". The definition of Villige is a group of houses and associated buildings, larger than a hamlet and smaller than a town, situated in a rural area..... This matters? there are 1300 people within 15 miles of me, 90% of them BUY their own food....*


Nice definition, obviously if they would live in town they would not be able to sustain the farm. duh. And btw, I know who Amish people are 



> *Actualy, it would be good if you would keep posting. MANY of the things you are trying to say have been said, and proven wrong in the past. Those threads are lost now, But this thread is Stickied.... So far, i have been able to give information on University Study guides, Soil test kits, Explain agriculture 300+ Years ago and how its still relevant As well as Educating people about Fertilizer grade ingredients..... *


I think making people think that you must PH everything, and use only so called fertilizer grade ingredients is deferentially a great help. If you do it, does not mean it's required. I have this impression that you do things only by the book, and never had a real vegetable or any other farm experience. I might be wrong, sorry if so, but that the impression I have after that prolonged conversation.


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## Corbat420 (Apr 29, 2012)

> * You are going to tell me what my family grow/grew/will grow? ** I have this impression that you do things only by the book, and never had a real vegetable or any other farm experience. I might be wrong, sorry if so, but that the impression I have after that prolonged conversation. *


#1. Your Parents, and Grand parents live in a Society where the CLOSEST you can get to Earlier Era's is the 1930's.... thats what im telling you. Im telling you that Because the things your grand parents do DONT MATTER and you seem to think they do.... Plain and simple, your grand parents probably grow Average Vegtables, OUTDOORS, on Already produced soil (AKA Doesn't NEED to be Acidified, or alkinated).... So yea, go check out Amish country...

#2. you ARE wrong, and you have been wrong the whole time. maybe if you actually looked back over the conversation you would see that. seeing as i have been able to post Legitimate, Proven information, and you have been able to rant on and on using your PERSONAL OPINION.

#3. i do things by SCIENCE. and SCIENCE says Marijuana CAN NOT grow in PH Above 8 or Below 5 for Soil and Above 7 and Below 4.5 for Hydro. Plain and simple. Adding CRAP to your soil, which that you dont know what is in it is there for a DUMB idea, isn't it?

Heres some SCIENCE for you.... 
View attachment 2146942

P.S: You might want to consider this... *Were not growing Radishes.

Just for the record: The ONLY reason they say to NOT use cat and dog feces, is Toxoplasmosis. Intestinal worms.... So unless you cat / Dog has worms... your good to go.... Healthy animal poop is just that... HEALTHY
*


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## bonkia (Apr 30, 2012)

So i called the company that makes great white which has a bunch of different bacteria and mycrorizea in it aswell they claim it will do just fine in fulvic and humic acids..?


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## Corbat420 (Apr 30, 2012)

bonkia said:


> So i called the company that makes great white which has a bunch of different bacteria and mycrorizea in it aswell they claim it will do just fine in fulvic and humic acids..?


If it is in the SOIL and Established, then there will be no harm.

Adding the Fungi directly to the tea will kill the Fungi. Bacteria and Fungi work against each other when in a hostile environment (Such as highly oxygenated water) Because they both feed off of the same things.

BUT once in the soil, the Fungi attaches its self to the root system of the plant and establishes a base. The Bacteria feed off of the Carbohydrates in the soils, so they dont fight for food any more. Once established in colonies the bacteria and fungi will be much stronger than in their raw form.


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## Da Almighty Jew (May 6, 2012)

Tea'
3 gal water
6 tbls bone meal
6 tbls blood meal
6 tbls psb guano
(bubbled for 48 hrs prior next additions)
4 tbls ewc
1tbls molasses
(bubble for 12-36 hours, till whenever it starts to foam)
1:1 ratio


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## dirrtyd (May 10, 2012)

Myth: Foam does not mean anything when it comes to AACT. Check out microbeorganics and learn more. I will post more on my Outdoor thread on this subject also in my thread in the Organics section.keepem green dirrtyd


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## Corbat420 (May 10, 2012)

> *Myth: Foam does not mean anything when it comes to AACT. Check out microbeorganics and learn more.*


 i was just going to post a couple myths... more when i have more time.

Myth - Bone/blood meal: Bone meal and Blood meal do NOTHING. it takes around one month for Bone meal to become active, and 2+ weeks for blood meal to become active... IF you are using the sludge from the bottom of the barrel as top feed then for all means, add bone/blood meal, if not then it is kind of a waste....

Myth - PH doesn't matter: PH DEFINITELY matters with organic's. Many organic product's are Pre-tested to ensure the PH levels are around 6.5, but when using Home made, or self collected fertalizers a person NEEDS to be aware of the PH or they will experiance major problems.

Myth - Soil doesn;t NEED to be cooked: WRONG. soil Needs to be cooked for multiple reasons. #1 nutrient activation. #2 PH ballancer activation (Lime and Gypsum) and #3 degradation of all organic matter... the more degraded it is, the better for the plants.


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## foreverflyhi (May 12, 2012)

so im curious, 
growers who use fox farm or happy frog soil, where do u keep you ph of you water/tea feed? 
out here in southern cali my RO water is at about 7.0 and when i brew my tea i bump it up to about 700 then i dillute to about 1:5 which leaves my pph at about 50-150 and my ph to about 6.7
should i lower my ph more? or bump up my ppm?


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## malignant (May 12, 2012)

Corbat420 said:


> Myth - PH doesn't matter: PH DEFINITELY matters with organic's. Many organic product's are Pre-tested to ensure the PH levels are around 6.5, but when using Home made, or self collected fertalizers a person NEEDS to be aware of the PH or they will experiance major problems.
> 
> .


 for this very reason dolomite lime is your best friend. it helps balance and maintain balanced ph levels.


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## Hemlock (May 14, 2012)

What do you all think of this tea

5 gallons of R/O water
1 handful of ancient forest
1 handful of mushroom compost
1/4 cup Indo bat shit .5-12-2
1 Oz of fulvic 
1 oz Humic
1 oz molasses


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## Dust1nth3w1nd (May 22, 2012)

does anyone know howlong relatively the tea's stay good? also would it bea good idea to throw it inthe fridge?


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## NickNasty (May 22, 2012)

You should use it in the next few days and yes throw it in the fridge if your keeping it over a day.


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## malignant (Jun 9, 2012)

i wouldnt try to keep it over a a few days, a week if you have no other options


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## Satanicbongripper (Jun 18, 2012)

Thanks for the information.


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## itsaplant (Jun 26, 2012)

I brewed for 48 hours with a vigorous aeration and it smells like pee.
What did I do wrong? Weather has been cool but the liquid is warm.

EDIT: pump heated to 80f oops. all trash.


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## inked4life11 (Jun 26, 2012)

whats up guys. good reading and good arguments so far. new to organics and throwing out my nutrients unless your in so cal ill give em to you
anyways here we go:
i wanna start my own organic garden from start to finish. meaning a good soil mix to potent tea.
what i wanna do is eliminate nutrients completely. i dont wanna add any bottled nutrients in my mix. is it possible? heres what i have in mind:
12 plants in my own soil
composted pile i have. mix of veggies,fruits and seaweed from the ocean that i rinsed off.
worm castings
molasses 
throw that in a bucket and 48 hours later we have a tea..<---- would all this be ok in flower?

also is there any good info on mixing your own soils like recipes? if so can we get a link thanks


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## Hemlock (Jun 27, 2012)

Wondering if mosquito dunk kill the mykos


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## malignant (Jun 27, 2012)

thats a good question, i brew my teas in my growroom so they're inside a clean cool place and i exhaust with my vents


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## NickNasty (Jun 29, 2012)

Hemlock said:


> Wondering if mosquito dunk kill the mykos


I'm guessing your using the dunks for gnats? Have you tried beneficial nematodes they worked good for gnat problems.


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## codexcannabis (Jul 4, 2012)

awesome post, thanks guys


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## elduece (Jul 4, 2012)

Hemlock said:


> Wondering if mosquito dunk kill the mykos


I usually stir in two blister packs worth of grounded dunks per 8 cu ft and when that mix is done cooking, webbed fungal threads and expanded spores from the base mixes are visible top side layer. So, I have to assume it's fungal friendly.

Edit:
You'll also find bacillus thuringiensis -the main ingredient to those dunks, packaged along with those spores like great white, myko madness, mycogrow etc. I think it's safe to say it's ok.


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## Hemlock (Jul 5, 2012)

elduece said:


> I usually stir in two blister packs worth of grounded dunks per 8 cu ft and when that mix is done cooking, webbed fungal threads and expanded spores from the base mixes are visible top side layer. So, I have to assume it's fungal friendly.
> 
> Edit:
> You'll also find bacillus thuringiensis -the main ingredient to those dunks, packaged along with those spores like great white, myko madness, mycogrow etc. I think it's safe to say it's ok.



Thanks so much for the response elduece, Well done Sir


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## Hemlock (Jul 5, 2012)

NickNasty said:


> I'm guessing your using the dunks for gnats? Have you tried beneficial nematodes they worked good for gnat problems.


I have not tried them but I will.


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## Beeb Beebman (Jul 5, 2012)

Hemlock said:


> I have not tried them but I will.


 they work very very well. Cool to know they are in your soilfoodweb defending!


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## Growop101 (Aug 11, 2012)

Corbat420 said:


> Very nice to see. Subbed just to let everyone know.
> 
> im usualy on daily, if not every other day. i can answer alot of the questions people need answered


Hey i jus had a question about compost tea. I made a batch, it brewed for 2 weeks or a little over2 weeks. It smells good earthy, sweet and nice. |
I applyed it to some plants in a diluted 10:1 ratio. And its been a few days and i dont see any sort of flourishment, its not doing any worse or better. What do you look for to tell if your tea is working in your favor or hurting your plants?? 
BTW this is my first tea lol


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## Growop101 (Aug 11, 2012)

malignant said:


> for this very reason dolomite lime is your best friend. it helps balance and maintain balanced ph levels.


If using coarse dolomite lime, do you jus sprinkle as a top dress and it soaks in the soil when it gets watered???


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## Growop101 (Aug 11, 2012)

Corbat420 said:


> i was just going to post a couple myths... more when i have more time.
> 
> Myth - Bone/blood meal: Bone meal and Blood meal do NOTHING. it takes around one month for Bone meal to become active, and 2+ weeks for blood meal to become active... IF you are using the sludge from the bottom of the barrel as top feed then for all means, add bone/blood meal, if not then it is kind of a waste....
> 
> ...


What exactly do you mean by cooking soil?


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## <Grasshopper> (Aug 15, 2012)

This means to let it sit and compost for 30 days to help the microbial life break down the food and make it availible to the plant.


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## <Grasshopper> (Aug 20, 2012)

Bump for a awesome topic......


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## ottawaliquid (Aug 27, 2012)

Yes it was a good read indeed...

I've done 3 or 4 teas for my outdoor garden this year and have seen great results.

I used worm castings
homemade compost
kelp meal
molasses
and a bit of greensand.

Is the greensand just a waste? I would think that it would take a long time to be broken down to any kind of useful ionic compounds, but I figured it wouldn't hurt anything either

bit o unsulphured molasses and baby oatmeal cereal to feed any fungi that I might be able to populate (if any)

I brew for around 30-48 hours every time.. amazing flowers and veggies


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## WyoGrow (Nov 14, 2012)

Any tips on a tea that will encourage a plant to reach the maximum THC output for that plant? I hear good things about alfalfa.


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## Hemlock (Nov 15, 2012)

WyoGrow said:


> Any tips on a tea that will encourage a plant to reach the maximum THC output for that plant? I hear good things about alfalfa.


i don't know that anyone could answer that. However, I will say that teas allow you plants to be all they can be. I been doing teas for about 2 years now and my yeilds are much higher in some strains double. Also read about TLO true living organics. alfalfa is for the benefical microbes to eat, but yeah they love it.

My newest tea

5 gallons of r/o water
1 OZ of molasses
1 tablespoon of ZHO
1 table spoon of Mex Bat guano
1 OZ of aquashield 
1 handfull of ancient forest

let brew for for 24 hours and serve. you will need to PH before serving


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## WyoGrow (Nov 15, 2012)

I am meaning any tea regiment that makes the plant happy enough to just do what it does to it's best potential. Not pack 22% THC levels onto a strain that maxes out @ 16%.

This is a tea I used on my Buht Jolokia peppers this year and harvested 178 chicken egg size pepper off of it while it's no tea getting sister next to her only put out 80.

5g RO/DI
4tblps Corn Syrup
4tblsp Blackstrap Molasses
1tblps Chicken manure
2 cups homemade compost
2 cups alfalfa pellets
2 cups juiced beet greens
1 cup oatmeal
1tsp epsom

Start whole mix of with everything but the molasses and epsom. Bubble vigorously for 3 days and then add molasses and bubble for another 24 hours. Add epsom just before using, pH and use. Every other batch I'd toss in 2 generic unflavored "TUMS" for the extra Ca to prevent BER.


I am a big fan of "juicing". I have a old commercial blender I keep in the garage. On my daily trip through my garden whatever weeds I pull or plants I thin get tossed in it and finely blended. Strain through fine mesh strainer and I add this juice straight to my water can for daily watering and put the pulp in my compost. My compost finished much faster and my garden is always vibrant.


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## Sincerely420 (Feb 19, 2013)

Personally I'm uncomfortable with the amout of PH talk in this thread lol!
Haven't PH'd on of my teas...Ever

And I brew by the gallon because to avoid wasting that AACT.
An example of a mix i'd use would be:

*-1gal of water*. Non-RO. I simply let tap water sit out for a few days before I use it.
*-3tablespoons of my amended soil mix, EWCs, or a combination of both.*
*-1/2teaspoon kelp meal*. Using too much actually hinders reproduction in the AACTs rather than helping it
-*1/2teaspoon Neptune's Harvest Liquid Fish*
*-1/2 teaspoon Indonesian Bat Guano*
*-1teaspoon Unsulphered Molasses.* Using too much causes an S toxicity. I've also learn that there's good nutritional valut in that molasses itself. Usually something like 1-0-5
__________________________________
I oxygenate the above in a 1gal jug with a 10gal fish tank pump for 18-24 hours.
This is also just one of many combinations that I have used over time.
I've observed slight burn sometimes when using things that are fact acting in the AACTs like Neptunes Harvest Liquid Fish, which has readily available N. Seems like I've also seen it with the Bat Guano, but never anything more than some yellow tips here and there. They NEVER progress.
I use AACTs 3/4 watering until that last two weeks before harvest. From that point forwards it's water only.

Organics is the SHIT! Literally! The more I learn about Organics, the more I wanna move to veganics...
Guess It'll be a couple grows until I run out of all these amendments that I bought before my first grow...Oh well, I've got time


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## purplephazes (Mar 2, 2013)

I have a Soil recipe and Tea Brew that works great together !
Made in Australia !
Please Feel free to share this brew with every forum available !
Australia needs more soil remedies!
This is one great option.

Purplephazes OzzyBomb Brew and soil.

VEGE MIX Soil 

1 x 25kg bag Searles 5'n'1 ( contents per bag : Blood n bone, Cow manure,sheep manure,Chicken manure,)

1 x 25kg bag Mother natures Mushroom compost.

1 x 25kg bag Richgrow Organic Premium Compost.

1 x 90 Ltr Brunnings easy wetta premuim coco coir block ( flushed 3 times with 5 TBLSP epsom salts, 50mls of eco dolimite liquid lime along with 200 mls of Powerfeed added to final flush and left to soak for 12 -18hrs)

10- 12 shovels of washed builders sand.

2 x cupful of Richgrow blood n bone

4 x cupful richgrow super phosphate .( hit with hammer to dust )

2 x handful of king island kelp meal,

3 handfuls dolimite lime pulverised



Vege mix Tea 15 ltr Bubble teas are brewed using :
15 ltrs rain water or "tap water bubbled for 24hrs to dechlorinate. 

4 cups of vege bin worm castings, 

3 cups compost, 

Power feed @ 80mls, 

Seasol seaweed liquid @ 70mls 

(dusted dolimite lime @ 1 handful ) 

2 TBLSP kelp meal

1 handful Richgrow super phoshate (dusted) 

3 TBLSP of dissolved epsom salts,

3-4 TBLSP of Beerenberg unsulphered molasses 
I feed teas undiluted every 3rd watering .( water, water, Feed,)


FLOWERING SOIL MIX

I had some vege mix around 15kg left over and added it with..

1 x 25kg bag Richgrow mushroom compost

1x 25kg bag searles 5"n"1

1 x 25 kg bag Richgrow Organic Premuim compost

45 ltrs Brunnings coco coir Flushed 3 times with 5 TBLSP dissolved epsom salts 200mls seasol liquid seaweed and 100mls of powerfeed added to final flush and left to soak for 12-18hrs,

4 cups of Dolimite lime ( dusted use hammer) 

3-4 handfuls King Island Kelp meal

3 handfuls richgrow sulphate of potash (dusted use hammer)

4 x cupful super phos (dusted use hammer)



15ltr Bubble teas Flowering brew consists of : 
4 cups flower bin worm castings, 

2 handfuls garden compost, 

1x handful "dusted" dolimite lime 

1 x handful Super phos (dusted), 

1 x handful sulphate of potash (dusted) 

1 handful king island kelp meal, 

100mls seasol liquid kelp, 

Powerfeed varies according to yellowing of older growth and would be strain dependant imo ! 20-50 mls . 

4 Tblsp of beerenberg unsulphered molasses.

I feed every 3-4 days undiluted and Airate for 20-24hrs .


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## Sincerely420 (Mar 2, 2013)

Got any pics of your lasses, that show results from those AACTs
And what is your logic behind using the epsom salts and the lime in you AACTs?
Seems like your adding a bit much to about 4gals of what tho...That based on what I "think I know" lol,
not what I know! So I'm just curious to see what you thinking is and what your results are?!

Nice post bud!

AUSSIE AUSSIE AUSSIE!!!(Got a few good friends in Adelaide that I worked with in the States)!


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## purplephazes (Mar 2, 2013)

G'day sincerly,
After making AACT for this grow with that recipe i'm pretty happy mate.

The idea of using so much epsom salt is due to the coco coir properties .
It contains cations which cling to magnesium coir is a pig for holding mag !
I use above what the soil growers use purely due to the holding capacity.

I use the dol lime because thats my calcuim !
Microbes cling to the dusted dol lime and realease it to the root system when required .
I use extra during flower because the plants require more during this period and the microbes have it readily available 
straight from the tea bucket as it reaches the root zone !


I think i know what i know ! LOL !
You could use what i know and you will also get asked questions and you could pass on what you know so someone else will know lol .
Then we will all know how to create a good soil mix with cheap teas and get postive results  ! 


Anyway bro heres a few pics of what i taught myself so you can know it is designed for guerilla grows and being a lightweight soil with the coco coir added and teas are easily transported as well these seeds were planted on Nov 1 2012 ..got about 3 weeks to go . !


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## Sincerely420 (Mar 2, 2013)

Some sexy sativa dom. hey??! Nice bro!
And yeah, looking at those pics I'm remind that the seasons there are totally backwards compared to here haha!
But nice post man! Gonna go outdoor this season as well, and I will refer back to this for sure!

Seems I should expand on my tea ingredients tho! And research for that matter!
Good luck with the harvest bro

& right on about the fact the knowledge is power!


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## purplephazes (Mar 2, 2013)

Hey sincerely , 
I got a journal at Marijuana passion in the greenhouse forum mate Twohighcrimes is me mate Theres more info over there.

The whole grow is documented i used to be Purplephazes over there but got ratted out a couple years ago and had to delete that account .

These plants are Rocksters cheese from a few years ago ,
Thanks for the kind words mate , Take care bro.

PP.


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## Sincerely420 (Mar 2, 2013)

I'll def. check you out bro. And I had a homie get caught up and had to switch up my style also, so I know how it good brother!
Be safe man!


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## purplephazes (Mar 2, 2013)

Yes mate it sucks man i was growing 6 plants with a mate and his missus said she wanted 1 third of that grow ..
Naturally i told her where the free ride stops .

She called the cops the grow got pulled up 3 weeks into flower!

Cops came found no evidence and i ended up with a shit load of popcorn ,

Never again man . 


Cheers bro take care .

You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to Sincerely420 again.


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## Sincerely420 (Mar 2, 2013)

fucking bitch man...Srry to hear about that..


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## purplephazes (Mar 3, 2013)

Hey sincerely,

I just read what you were saying about Ph as well all the talk about it.
I never touch the Ph either the microbes do all the work mate. You are right on the money.
If you add Ph down ..which is what it needs (some think)
You put the microbes out of their comfort zone and kill them off.
Dont change the Ph guys ...Listen to sincerely.
Just sayin .

Peace bro!


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## bowsa (Mar 8, 2013)

here are some rockser chesse used super soil and water one time with molasses thats all on this one


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## trichmasta (Mar 8, 2013)

What's everyone rocking for a bloom tea? Fading out the bottled bs and tring to get my tea game dialed...


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## Rising Moon (Mar 8, 2013)

trichmasta said:


> What's everyone rocking for a bloom tea? Fading out the bottled bs and tring to get my tea game dialed...


For a 4 gallon brew, I use a mixture of 1/2 cup EWC, 1/2 cup of compost, 1/2 cup leaf mold and 1/2 cup Alaska Humus,

with an herbal mixture equaling 1 cup of dried Yarrow, Red Clover and Chamomile flowers.

To this Ill add 1 tbs of fossilized high P guano (soluble), 2 tbs powdered kelp and 2 tbs Molasses.

Bubble for 24 hours.

Use at 1:2-1:8 ratio.


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## trichmasta (Mar 8, 2013)

Sounds dank rising moon...where are you getting your herbal goodies?


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## Rising Moon (Mar 8, 2013)

I get them locally or grow them in my garden : )

But, Mountain Rose Herbs is a really great place for herbs, and bentonite clay and other clays for micro minerals.


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## Sincerely420 (Mar 8, 2013)

trichmasta said:


> What's everyone rocking for a bloom tea? Fading out the bottled bs and tring to get my tea game dialed...


1gal of H20
1/4cup compost or soil mix
1tsp Kelp Meal
1tsp Hi-P Bat Guano
1tsp Unsulphured Molasses

I buble in a 1gal jug with a 10gal fish tank pump and it get the job done.

You can also add 1tsp Neptunes Harvest Liquid Fish 2-4-1 from time to time. I do so maybe once of twice a month as it provides a good boost of N


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## trichmasta (Mar 8, 2013)

Nice! I wanna grow my own as well....gonna start some comfrey real soon!! 

What do you guys think of this?
http://malibucompost.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=60


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## Sincerely420 (Mar 8, 2013)

I'd approve! Of course it's not making your own yadayadayada....
But it'll do! I'm gonna use a mix of mushroom compost and forest compost when I re-amend my soil


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## trichmasta (Mar 8, 2013)

I just really like the botanicals that are included...gonna brew some enzymes with some barley seeds this weekend too


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## Sincerely420 (Mar 9, 2013)

Haven't used the barley seed yet, but I def. plan on giving it a try during my next run! A few guys around here seem to be LOVING it


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## Rising Moon (Mar 9, 2013)

trichmasta said:


> Nice! I wanna grow my own as well....gonna start some comfrey real soon!!
> 
> What do you guys think of this?
> http://malibucompost.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=60



One of the best bagged products on the market.


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## trichmasta (Mar 9, 2013)

Snagged some bu's today....can't wait to start a brew with some!! How late in bloom do you think I should rock it in my brews? brewed for 24-30 hours. For veg I've been rocking alfalfa meal and a little natures nectar nitrogen. For bloom I'm thinking kelp, bone meal, glacial rock dust, and rock phosphate. Thoughts??

This will be used indoor and with my produce this season...peace all!


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## tacs77818 (Mar 16, 2013)

hi iam interested in your recipe. im doing an outdoor grow of 99 plants in 100 gallon conatainers.
its my first time any suggestions i wont to get the biggest yield as possible. thank you


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## headtreep (Mar 16, 2013)

Rising Moon said:


> One of the best bagged products on the market.


I use a commercial product called bioflora fish and kelp. works bomb!


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## Sneakyleeg (Mar 25, 2013)

For the organic guys who recycle their soil .. Do you worry about bug infestation of soil? If so how do you treat this problem. Root aphids were unheard of pre 2005, and now they are more prevalent than ever. especially in northern california. Some have hypothosized they come from clones, backyard, grass, everywhere.. If this is the case, do you worry about larvae developing in old recycled soil. 

And for perlite do you guys have any suggestions besides lava rock as a subsitute for aeration.. The lava rock can get too heavy for my back


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## zwaghuf (May 13, 2013)

Sneakyleeg said:


> And for perlite do you guys have any suggestions besides lava rock as a subsitute for aeration.. The lava rock can get too heavy for my back


Have you tried using rice hulls? I think they work pretty well. http://www.hummert.com/ProductDetail.aspx?Page=ProductSearchList.aspx&ID=9062&Text=10-2100


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## NickNasty (May 13, 2013)

Sneakyleeg said:


> For the organic guys who recycle their soil .. Do you worry about bug infestation of soil? If so how do you treat this problem. Root aphids were unheard of pre 2005, and now they are more prevalent than ever. especially in northern california. Some have hypothosized they come from clones, backyard, grass, everywhere.. If this is the case, do you worry about larvae developing in old recycled soil.
> 
> And for perlite do you guys have any suggestions besides lava rock as a subsitute for aeration.. The lava rock can get too heavy for my back


I have been reusing my soil for years now and luckily haven't had any root aphids. If I did I would probably not use that soil again or sterilize it. I have predator mites and predator nematodes in my soil or at least put them in at some point these should eat the aphids if they should come around, they will also eat thrips,fungus gnats and spring tails and the predator mites will also eat spider mites when they are on the soil so its a good investment to just buy them before you need them.

And I just started using rice hulls for aeration and I like them but the bags are just as heavy.


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## GandalfdaGreen (Jun 15, 2013)

Bump. Thank you for this amazing thread. I am brewing my first tea now. I have a P deficiency so my 5 gallon brew includes:

4 tsp Mycos
4 tsp Azos
4 tsp Alaska Kelp liquid
2 tsp Molasses
8 oz of Lobster compost
8 oz of Cow manure compost
4 tsp of Budswell bat guano

I added a touch too much of powdered dolomite lime to my mix so I want to bring the ph down a touch. I s this a nice tea to start with? Should I dilute 1:5? Thanks everyone. I cant wait to learn as much as I can about organics. I just ordered Teaming with Microbes and I have been reading a bunch of Elaine Ingrahm's works. BTW my plants are about a month old.


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## st0wandgrow (Jun 15, 2013)

GandalfdaGreen said:


> Bump. Thank you for this amazing thread. I am brewing my first tea now. I have a P deficiency so my 5 gallon brew includes:
> 
> 4 tsp Mycos
> 4 tsp Azos
> ...


Leave out the mykos and azos. Those are to be applied directly to your root zone during transplant.


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## GandalfdaGreen (Jun 15, 2013)

So there is really only a small chance of burning my girls up? Man this is trust here. I have never put the ph pen away. I do have a touch too much dolomite and I do need the ph to come down a few points. My soil is running 6.8 because of my 1.5 tbs per gallon of soil mix and not 1 tbs.


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## st0wandgrow (Jun 15, 2013)

GandalfdaGreen said:


> So there is really only a small chance of burning my girls up? Man this is trust here. I have never put the ph pen away. I do have a touch too much dolomite and I do need the ph to come down a few points. My soil is running 6.8 because of my 1.5 tbs per gallon of soil mix and not 1 tbs.


The aerated compost tea serves one purpose..... to multiply the beneficial microbes present in your compost. When added to the soil as a drench, these microbes will break down the organic inputs in your soil and through death and deification make those nutrients available for your plants. 

Adding ACT's and earth worm castings are good ways to neutralize any imbalance you may have in your soil.

Sphagum peat moss is a little on the acidic side, so if you added too much dolomite lime creating a slightly alkaline soil you can add a little peat in to the mix to balance it out as well.


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## squarepush3r (Jun 26, 2013)

I have heard different thing about mycorrhizae in tea, that you should not put them in since they will only form in presence of roots. They may get digested or destroyed in a compost tea.


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## GandalfdaGreen (Jun 26, 2013)

I have learned this recently. It was a mistake of mine to add them to the tea.


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## GreenSanta (Jun 27, 2013)

I dont think it's a mistake I think you have to add the myco to your tea about an hour before you are going to use it. I hope someone can confirm this because I was planning on making a ''myco'' tea for my perennials and for my young pot plants.


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## st0wandgrow (Jun 27, 2013)

GreenSanta said:


> I dont think it's a mistake I think you have to add the myco to your tea about an hour before you are going to use it. I hope someone can confirm this because I was planning on making a ''myco'' tea for my perennials and for my young pot plants.


There is no real benefit to adding mycorrhizae to a tea. This fungus works symbiotically with the plant in the root zone (rhizosphere) exchanging nutrients with the plant for secretions from the roots. It needs to be applied directly to the roots/root zone when transplanting. There is little evidence to suggest that mycorrhizae effectively multiply while being brewed in an ACT ..... which is the entire point of a compost tea.

I suppose it doesn't hurt to add it at the end of a brew, but you are essentially wasting it in large part. It's more effective to just sprinkle it in to the root zone as directed.


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## dirtsurfr (Jun 27, 2013)

All tis rain... My girls are loving it!!!


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## robro (Aug 8, 2013)

Corbat420 said:


> Actualy, i Learned from FDD2BLK that Carnivorous Guano's are good. hell, Great even. Carnivorous bat guano, Cat feces and dog feces (if composted) supply tonnes of N and K to plants....
> 
> 
> 
> ...


It is very unlikely that farmers 700 years ago would know anything about balancing the pH levels of their soils.Of course,they knew about fertilisation,hence Crop Rotation and leaving a field fallow for a while to recouperate.But stating that they knew about pH is nonsensicle,seeing as it wasnt discovered until 1909,by a Danish bloke called Sorenson.So,just for the record,this PS is mostly just a guess and should be taken with a pinch of salt.


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## robro (Aug 9, 2013)

SirLancelot said:


> ah man was just going to say this that's why they people in Europe had to rotate corn crops. Just a little history lesson bet you didn't know that the Industrial Revolution in Great Britain is due to the introduction of the Potato to the diet in Europe. When people grow corn it takes alot of nutrients out of the soils and such which is why they rotate (we all know this, just clarifying). Once the potato was introduced they were now able to plant in all their fields without problems of rotating thus they could produce more food. Once they started producing more food their population BOOMEd I don't know the statistics off hand but there is a huge coorelation between the introduction of the Potato and the population boom. anyways now that they don't have a scarce food and are able to maintain bigger populations and essentially have time to do other things than just farm food... the Industrial Revolution was born..
> 
> Sorry that was my morning rant to go with my coffee and blunt.
> Happy growings..
> ...


Appropriate that your name in RIU is SirLancelot,a fictitious knight of the fictitious Round Table.History lesson is a joke!
I am from England and have never heard of the potato being responsible for our Industrial Revolution.I was taught that it was coz of new machines being invented,exploitation of low paid workers being exploited by unscrupulous factory owners,etc,etc.Definitely not the humble spud.
Was the 1st and 2nd World Wars down to the potato then.coz there were more ppl to fight them?
I worked on a farm in the 1960`s when i was a lad,and crops were still rotated,you make out that we stopped rotating after the spud was introduced.
Not true.If all fields were used for planting,as you state,where would the animals graze?Youve not put much thought into your post,your just guessing.
If you are taught that in the USA,it is totally wrong.
I will concede that the introduction of the potato changed the staple diet in Britain from bread to spud,and allowed the population to expand coz if the wheat crop failed the spud was there as a back up.Ireland depended solely on the tattie,and when their crops failed in the mid 1800`s coz of blight,millions died and millions emigrated to the USA.Only for thousands of them to die fighting in your Civil War.
Saying that the potato was solely responsible for our I.R. is folly,as there were many other reasons,it was a time of change and invention,and you cant please all of the ppl all of the time.It had to happen,and still goes on to this day.Are all industrial disputes down to the potato?
If the inventor of anything eats potato,is that invention down to the tatty?Coz thats what you are saying.
Stick to growing weed pal,coz you know sweet FA about history.


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## robro (Aug 18, 2013)

Corbat420 said:


> dam rights man. one of the things people don't understand about Organics is the amount of nutrients marijuana can uptake. The salts in Synthetic fertilizers (Such as potassium Sulfide and Sodium Nitrate, both common ingredient for synthesizing hydro nutes.......) cause such harm to the soil and plants in larger doses that its almost inhumane  some of the things i see people putting into their reservoirs is just sad....
> 
> Organics don't have any salts, any harmful acids or bases, any Harmful ingredients and most of all... Organics don't have to degrade the planet to grow plants (such a stupid thing...). Organics is sustainable which puts it FAR above any other methods


These posts are a bit misleading.It suggests that you can put any amount of anything into teas,which is probably only true to a certain extent.
The post above this quote on same page should have been added also.
Too much nitrogen added to your flowering tea will still lock out potassium,so be careful,dont fall into the trap like i did.
I wish id never read these posts,it lulled me into a false sense of security about what i can put in my teas,and fucked my plants.
Im still a noob at this and tend to believe people who have been growing for years.
Less is best,i have learned that the hard way.


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## robro (Aug 18, 2013)

Da Almighty Jew said:


> ever since i started to use teas i been able to feed really heavy with organics without burning at all.


misleading post also.


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## blackrecluse (Aug 24, 2013)

I believe I have been mis led. Organic is hot too.


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## dung beetle (Sep 2, 2013)

just nettle and dandelion fertiliser..job done..nettle for N etc but with added Mg from the dandelion..try it


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## GandalfdaGreen (Sep 2, 2013)

blackrecluse said:


> I believe I have been mis led. Organic is hot too.


You can overdo anything. Can you tell me how you were running things? What was too hot?


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## RedCarpetMatches (Sep 2, 2013)

Chicken manure has more fire than DNA. I've used Mexican bat poo at 1/16 strength on fifth node and still got burn even with all the microbes!!! Just start light and read the plants.


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## RedCarpetMatches (Sep 16, 2013)

squarepush3r said:


> I have heard different thing about mycorrhizae in tea, that you should not put them in since they will only form in presence of roots. They may get digested or destroyed in a compost tea.


Really?! I add happy frog soil conditioner that's loaded with fungi to my teas!!! Luckily I transplant with it. How do they get destroyed?! Why don't they multiply? Is there anything you can add to teas to make them multiply?!


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## RedCarpetMatches (Sep 17, 2013)

Has anyone ran strictly coco and all organic teas?!


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## RedCarpetMatches (Sep 19, 2013)

Nobody?! Guess I'll start a journal.


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## dirtsurfr (Sep 20, 2013)

RedCarpetMatches said:


> Really?! I add happy frog soil conditioner that's loaded with fungi to my teas!!! Luckily I transplant with it. How do they get destroyed?! Why don't they multiply? Is there anything you can add to teas to make them multiply?!


I believe that's why you put molasses I it so they eat on it instead of each other...


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## GandalfdaGreen (Sep 24, 2013)

RedCarpetMatches said:


> Really?! I add happy frog soil conditioner that's loaded with fungi to my teas!!! Luckily I transplant with it. How do they get destroyed?! Why don't they multiply? Is there anything you can add to teas to make them multiply?!


How do you use your HF soil conditioner? What do you mix it with?


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## st0wandgrow (Sep 24, 2013)

RedCarpetMatches said:


> Really?! I add happy frog soil conditioner that's loaded with fungi to my teas!!! Luckily I transplant with it. How do they get destroyed?! Why don't they multiply? Is there anything you can add to teas to make them multiply?!


Increase the amount of fish hydrosylate, and decrease the amount of molasses that you use in your teas to create a more hospitable environment for fungal growth. A "pinch" of alfalfa meal is also recommended. No other food stocks necessary. Brew 18-20 hours. This is according to someone who's opinion I respect on the topic.


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## RedCarpetMatches (Sep 27, 2013)

Damn forgot to check back. Good info stow. I wonder if the tea is more efficient than the brown rice "fungal cake", which takes me a good week to collect.


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## boblawblah421 (Sep 27, 2013)

RedCarpetMatches said:


> Has anyone ran strictly coco and all organic teas?!


Honestly, I have stopped buying coco. There is some in my compost, but it's the coco chips, not the pith, and it's been composting for a while now.

However, I bet that coco/lava rock or expanded shale may be the best way to make use out of some veg/bloom specific guano teas. 

Maybe include some bentonite, oyster shell, and/or rock dusts to keep them rusty spots away.


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## robro (Sep 27, 2013)

RedCarpetMatches said:


> Damn forgot to check back. Good info stow. I wonder if the tea is more efficient than the brown rice "fungal cake", which takes me a good week to collect.


Have a look at this site RedCM.http://www.compostjunkie.com/compost-tea-recipe.html 
.


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## OrganicOnly (Sep 28, 2013)

Awesome thread  Been learning so much on the site since I joined have almost completely changed my whole grow. Props to all the true organics growers maybe one day I too will be able to teach the class but for now I will be sitting in the front row diligently taking notes.


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## RedCarpetMatches (Oct 6, 2013)

If I were to grow in amended coco and feed with teas, would I have to go with a higher PH as with soil?


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## RedCarpetMatches (Oct 6, 2013)

GandalfdaGreen said:


> How do you use your HF soil conditioner? What do you mix it with?


I have always used 1/4 to a 1/3. I just started cooking a mix with 1/2. Makes me nervous with all the "hotness".


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## hyroot (Oct 6, 2013)

st0wandgrow said:


> Increase the amount of fish hydrosylate, and decrease the amount of molasses that you use in your teas to create a more hospitable environment for fungal growth. A "pinch" of alfalfa meal is also recommended. No other food stocks necessary. Brew 18-20 hours. This is according to someone who's opinion I respect on the topic.


kelp is a good fungal food too. the fish hydroslate has the same stuff in it as molasses to neutralize chems and break down chloramine into ammonia


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## RedCarpetMatches (Oct 6, 2013)

Fish hydrolysate has proteins, oils, enzymes, growth hormones, micros, and macros. Good shit.


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## May11th (Oct 20, 2013)

Red. Do you like the hf soil conditioner? I been using it and my plants seem happy with it. It has a ton of wood in it.


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## RedCarpetMatches (Oct 20, 2013)

May11th said:


> Red. Do you like the hf soil conditioner? I been using it and my plants seem happy with it. It has a ton of wood in it.


Never tried the recommended 50% mix FF suggests. I've only used 1/3 max. The dirt I'm going to use next IS 50% so I'll know shortly what it can really do. The ingredients can really make soil amending easier. #FMay11


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## anzohaze (Nov 1, 2013)

So I just made my first aact ever I think I did ok I want yalls opinions
4 gallons bubbled water
1 cup ewc
1 cup alfalfa meal
1tbs kelp meal
1tbs bone meal
I think thats it. I having a lil N def as I gotta transplant from half fallon to 2 gallon pots didvi do ok or no thanks fello members


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## May11th (Nov 3, 2013)

Id lower the alfalfa personally. 1tbsp. Got molasses? Just keep it simple , I think I see some teas that require 100 ingredients, I think this thread helped me a ton and so did the fellows like hyroot, redcarpetmatches, gandalf, mycomaster, madhamish, hell this whole organic section is alk you need for info, read everything and trust people who have proof that they aren't all talk, im not a pro but ill tell you what ive done that hasnt worked lol


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## anzohaze (Nov 3, 2013)

May11th said:


> Id lower the alfalfa personally. 1tbsp. Got molasses? Just keep it simple , I think I see some teas that require 100 ingredients, I think this thread helped me a ton and so did the fellows like hyroot, redcarpetmatches, gandalf, mycomaster, madhamish, hell this whole organic section is alk you need for info, read everything and trust people who have proof that they aren't all talk, im not a pro but ill tell you what ive done that hasnt worked lol


Yea sorry I added prob 2 tbs worth I did not measeure the molasses just a nice smooth lil pour. And yes hyroot gandalf, trousers, green santa, spicysativa, mycomaster and there is another but there all bad ass. I feel like a stalker sometimes as in post I look for them and listen to them. I am sure there are some other excellent people but have not encounterd them yet. But yea the few I have mentioned has helped me dearly thanks yal


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## South Texas (Nov 3, 2013)

To max the Micro growth, I start with ^Thrive^, & Molasses. A little fish juice is always good. 1 gal. makes 7 gals. for feeding. Check out the dirt doctor's site for teas & the organic program. egg shell tea is good also.


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## anzohaze (Nov 6, 2013)

My secon tea is 4 gallons bubbled tap
1.5cup ewc
3Tbs neptunes harvest fish fertilizer
1/4 cup kelp meal
1Tbs alfalfa meal
I did not add molasses. Do I have to add molasses to every tea. I no it feeds the microbes but did notnknownif any other thing I listed above would work. Thanks yall for yalls help its only been bubbling for 30 minutes so ifnit sucks I need to remake let me no also all comments and laughs are welcome


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## DANKSWAG (Nov 13, 2013)

Hey if I am making teas, which looks like I need and want to do for I am tired of buying organic tea in a bottle and cal/mg, kelp, fish and other similar bottled organic nutrients.

I really want to get away from buying anything I need to feed my plants that is marketed in a plastic bottle for me to overpay for! PERIOD! 

So anywise I came across this and was thinking.... YEAH BABY YEAH had me a ORGANICISM vision of a tremendous bloom of beneficial microbes nestling comfortably in my soil web...

DankSwag
Grow On My Friends Grow On


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## nickelz419 (Nov 15, 2013)

. Did kelp, guano, molasses, 555,liquid fish, an seaweed..24 hr bubble. EWCs..bubble 24 an used half...added more ewcs...and bubbling now...question is how ling do i have till it can be used with with the effects i want? 

Sent from my XT555C using Rollitup mobile app


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## DANKSWAG (Nov 16, 2013)

Stowngrow,

I was reading info on site from the esteemed guru of brew. Based on what I read I noticed concerning ACT that a typical aquarium air pump will not do the job in a 5 gallon container, possibly a two gallon from what Tim posted.

Therefore my question to you since it does not seem to be that important pertaining to nutrient teas such as Alfalfa for a foliar feed or soil drench the the aeration for the primary benefit is to make the nutrient soluble thus more readily available to be consumed. 

Whereas there seems to be a necessary minimal air volume that needs to mix with water at proper ration to ensure the necessary aeration to promote growth and multiplication of beneficial microbes in ACT. 

So being a disciple of esteemed guru what equipment are you using to ensure you get the proper oxygen into your 5 gallon bucket since apparently an aquarium air pump is not enough?

DankSwag
Grow On My Friends Grow On


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## dirtsurfr (Nov 16, 2013)

DANKSWAG said:


> Hey if I am making teas, which looks like I need and want to do for I am tired of buying organic tea in a bottle and cal/mg, kelp, fish and other similar bottled organic nutrients.
> 
> I really want to get away from buying anything I need to feed my plants that is marketed in a plastic bottle for me to overpay for! PERIOD!
> 
> ...


Save your money. just pour the water in your bucket let set for a few days and the chlorine will dissipate.


----------



## DANKSWAG (Nov 16, 2013)

dirtsurfr said:


> Save your money. just pour the water in your bucket let set for a few days and the chlorine will dissipate.


True that, but if one needs instant chlorine free H20 from the tap then there you have it... TA DA! 
It would be nice if everything in life could wait a few days, I'd be the happiest procrastinator.

DankSwag
Grow Organic My Friend Grow On!


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## RedCarpetMatches (Nov 17, 2013)

DANKSWAG said:


> Stowngrow,
> 
> I was reading info on site from the esteemed guru of brew. Based on what I read I noticed concerning ACT that a typical aquarium air pump will not do the job in a 5 gallon container, possibly a two gallon from what Tim posted.
> 
> ...


I posted the proper air need to make an AACT in the noob tea I'm a believer aka cool people thread. A simple small aquarium pump is good enough for SSTs, nute teas, and foliars. I might have to start a thread on dissolved oxygen for AACT.


----------



## DANKSWAG (Nov 18, 2013)

RedCarpetMatches said:


> I posted the proper air need to make an AACT in the noob tea I'm a believer aka cool people thread. A simple small aquarium pump is good enough for SSTs, nute teas, and foliars. I might have to start a thread on dissolved oxygen for AACT.


RCW,

Sounds good about point out that the first A in AACT means something more then just Actively, should be be Advanced Aerated Compost Tea or Accelerated Aerated Compost Tea. I like the later better! 

Anywise you may also want to mention one could also create there own IMO (Indigenous Microorganisms) or LAB (Lactic Acid Bacillus) cultures and dilute them properly 

to foliar spray or use as a soil drench. Also the nice thing about cultivating and using your own local microorganisms especially in LAB you can use it to treat wheat meal run to prepare it for use in Bokashi composting. You can take that treated wheat meal run flush down toilet to start up dead septic. Spray can be used in pet's bedding.

Anywise thought I'd mention there are other ways to produce beneficial fungi and bacterial microbes prior solo into their own stabilized solutions that do not require an Accelerated Aeration to produce. It would probably be possible to add an IMO or LAB to other organic plant teas as one sees fit.

For example if there is a special guano or other compost I would want to MULTIPLY the microbes of, then I would place moderately moist rice in separate container 1/3 that I can cover and place which would allow in air but no matter. I would sit that container on top of a pot filled with a blend of the compost or on inside the guano bag covered. In 3-5 the rice will be covered with the starter batch of microbes mix this with equal parts food substance I recommend a balance of fungi \ bacteria food so use oatmeal and molasses. Let this ferment for 2 weeks covered warm and dark, but with air access. Important for this is where they grow and multiple it takes longer then 24 or 36 hours cause well you ain't got no Real AACT brewer do it in 24 hours with. But this works and this material after fermenting can be depending on size added to gallons of water and strained for spray or drench. 

It would be nice if someone with a microscope can run each method and compare using same compost materials... I am in for that!

DankSwag
Grow Organically My Friends Grown On


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## boblawblah421 (Nov 20, 2013)

Spare no expenses when shopping for air pumps!!!

I'll purchase nothing other than big ass pond style air pumps from here on out, like the one they sell you for the 60 gallon Vortex Brewer. I have collected two similar air pumps so far, both of which have had the ever living shit used out of them. Both pumps were even used in the back of a filthy pickup truck all spring/summer. They are years old, and abused, but still put out stupid more air than any of those old ecoplus/sunleaves/activeaqua/etc air pumps. The pond style air pumps are way more efficient with electricity, they are virtually silent, and they don't get anywhere close to as hot as the other air pumps.


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## alcohol (Dec 13, 2013)

DANKSWAG said:


> Stowngrow,
> 
> I was reading info on site from the esteemed guru of brew. Based on what I read I noticed concerning ACT that a typical aquarium air pump will not do the job in a 5 gallon container, possibly a two gallon from what Tim posted.
> 
> ...



No offense but you sound like a giant douche. 

The goal is to not let the solution go anaerobic, which an aquarium pump will work fine.


----------



## DANKSWAG (Dec 13, 2013)

alcohol said:


> No offense but you sound like a giant douche.
> 
> The goal is to not let the solution go anaerobic, which an aquarium pump will work fine.


No offense taken, your reply speaks for yourself and your ignorance.

Had you been paying attention instead of making judgments about people you have not met nor taken the time to know, you would realize the goal is the produce the greatest numbers of beneficial microbes, anyone can pump air into water. 

There is a certain requirement to produce the right amounts of oxygen in order to maximize the amount of beneficial microbes possible.

BTW I was provided respectfully the technical answer to my question, so thanks again for the general information about that everyone brewing act already knows.

DankSwag


----------



## alcohol (Dec 16, 2013)

*"There is a certain requirement to produce the right amounts of oxygen in order to maximize the amount of beneficial microbes possible."*

That sounds _extremely _scientific. Did your guru teach you that? If the goal is to maximize microbe population, how are you measuring the population? How can you be so certain that an aquarium pump will not work?

Secondly, what is the difference if you have 10 billion microorganisms or 9.2 billion? The answer is 0.8 billion bacteria. Will that cause any noticeable affect in the plant? Probably not.


----------



## DANKSWAG (Dec 16, 2013)

alcohol said:


> *"There is a certain requirement to produce the right amounts of oxygen in order to maximize the amount of beneficial microbes possible."*
> 
> That sounds _extremely _scientific. Did your guru teach you that? If the goal is to maximize microbe population, how are you measuring the population? How can you be so certain that an aquarium pump will not work?
> 
> Secondly, what is the difference if you have 10 billion microorganisms or 9.2 billion? The answer is 0.8 billion bacteria. Will that cause any noticeable affect in the plant? Probably not.



It's called being efficient rather then abstract... details and science are not for simple folk, ya hear?

DankSwag


----------



## boblawblah421 (Dec 17, 2013)

alcohol said:


> *"There is a certain requirement to produce the right amounts of oxygen in order to maximize the amount of beneficial microbes possible."*
> 
> That sounds _extremely _scientific. Did your guru teach you that? If the goal is to maximize microbe population, how are you measuring the population? How can you be so certain that an aquarium pump will not work?
> 
> Secondly, what is the difference if you have 10 billion microorganisms or 9.2 billion? The answer is 0.8 billion bacteria. Will that cause any noticeable affect in the plant? Probably not.


Either you lack experience, which is forgivable, or you just suck, which is not.

I can tell you from experience my friend, that a shitty little aquarium air pump does not create the same microbe population that a big ol' phat daddy air pump does. I am not a lab scientist, nor do I know any lab coat wearin' mother fuckers. I know that a larger air pump does a better job because I know what a thriving compost tea smells and looks like. A happy garden is always a dead give away too. I can also tell the difference between a bacterial dominant tea and a fungal dominant tea without knowing the exact ingredients, because of how they smell and look.

Do a side-by-side comparison, with a control, and come back for a healthy debate.

Until then take your name calling somewhere the fuck else ya giant douche.


----------



## ReefBongwell (Jan 14, 2014)

boblawblah421 said:


> I can also tell the difference between a bacterial dominant tea and a fungal dominant tea without knowing the exact ingredients, because of how they smell and look.


AACT newb here... what's the difference in look and smell?


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## Thatguywhome (Jan 14, 2014)

This is an old thread I know but I was wondering if anyone could post a tea recipe where none of the ingredients are purchased but instead foraged.


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## mrwood (Jan 14, 2014)

Brewing a compost tea is where 'beneficial microorganisms are extracted from compost or vermicompost (worm compost) and multiplied by the millions and billions'.

One guru is Tim Wilson at http://www.microbeorganics.com/
He has a microscope, he has done the work, and I try to mimic his results.
He addresses the use of aquarium pumps as myth: 

5/ One can make good ACT with an aquarium pump in 5 gallons of water.

We did almost a year straight of research (at a cost of thousands of dollars) building almost every conceivable compost tea brewer design and size, ranging from 1 to 1200 gallons. These included every type itemized on my webpage in the design section and more. We measured the dissolved oxygen (DO2) religiously at all hours of day and night, eliminating configurations which failed to maintain the DO2 at or above 6 PPM. This is close to the minimum level required to support aerobic organisms. 

The outcome of this research was, the estimation, that the minimum flow required from an air pump to make compost tea while maintaining the DO2 at 6 PPM, is 0.05 CFM per gallon while the optimum flow is 0.08 CFM per gallon or greater. (the only exception was when utilizing airlifts)

This means that most aquarium pumps will not work with a 5 gallon ACT maker, no matter what a couple of guys from Texas say. Two gallons, perhaps.​


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## ReefBongwell (Jan 14, 2014)

Thatguywhome said:


> This is an old thread I know but I was wondering if anyone could post a tea recipe where none of the ingredients are purchased but instead foraged.


Wormcastings + black strap molasses is all you need... don't know if you can forage molasses where you're at


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## boblawblah421 (Jan 15, 2014)

ReefBongwell said:


> AACT newb here... what's the difference in look and smell?


Fungal: Lighter in color, and smell, if that makes any sense. Kind of like fresh sawdust, but not really. More of a carbon rich smell.

Bacterial: Stronger smell, slightly sweet, and darker. It will also have a thicker, foamier, frothier head to it, and have a more solid-ish colonization around the sides of your brewer.



Thatguywhome said:


> This is an old thread I know but I was wondering if anyone could post a tea recipe where none of the ingredients are purchased but instead foraged.


There are a million and one different types of "teas" that you can make that are beneficial to your garden. You can make a fungal, bacterial, or balanced fungal/bacterial aerated compost tea without purchasing a thing. You'll probably have a difficult time if you live in Antarctica, but even then you could make it happen.

Fungal tea:

Find wild mushrooms. Then dig around close to these wild mushrooms to find a good "mycelium cake"

Like this:


Find you some fungal food: Alfalfa, kelp, aloe, and oats are the main fungal foods that I use.

That's it.


Bacterial tea:

Find some poop. Worm, cow, horse, goat, chicken, and bat are amongst the best.

Aloe and kelp are both fungal, and bacterial foods. Bananas, pears, beets, plums, pineapples, cherries, grapes, figs: high in sugar, low in acid. These should also do the trick to feed the bacteria.

Have fun with that.

Take notes and share your results.


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## RedCarpetMatches (Jan 19, 2014)

Fungal tea is less brewing time too. What do you guys think of this stuff...http://www.fungi.com/product-detail/product/mycogrow-soluble-1-oz.html


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## NickNasty (Jan 20, 2014)

I have used it to me it is just like almost all the other ones.


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## RedCarpetMatches (Jan 20, 2014)

NickNasty said:


> I have used it to me it is just like almost all the other ones.


I haven't brewed it, but I do sprinkle during transplant. These people eat, sleep on portabellas, and shit spores. My order has lasted me several months, and I'm not even a quarter through for around 30$ shipped for several packs. You could always just use whole grain and fungal humus for much cheaper. 

Things good Nick?! Haven't seen ya posting much...


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## boblawblah421 (Jan 20, 2014)

RedCarpetMatches said:


> Fungal tea is less brewing time too. What do you guys think of this stuff...http://www.fungi.com/product-detail/product/mycogrow-soluble-1-oz.html


I'm about to place a big order from this website, but this won't be in my order. This same stuff is readily available for free outside, so why pay for it? I will be ordering a bunch of their "mushroom patches". These will be for me and my family to eat, after they have pumped a bunch of CO2 into my flowering room that is.

Compost tea+Kombucha+Mushrooms=1500ppms of CO2.


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## st0wandgrow (Jan 20, 2014)

boblawblah421 said:


> I'm about to place a big order from this website, but this won't be in my order. This same stuff is readily available for free outside, so why pay for it? I will be ordering a bunch of their "mushroom patches". These will be for me and my family to eat, after they have pumped a bunch of CO2 into my flowering room that is.
> 
> Compost tea+Kombucha+Mushrooms=1500ppms of CO2.


I've thought about growing mushrooms in my garden to supplement CO2 (plus I love eating mushrooms).

Keep us posted on how this goes. If you give it the thumbs up I may have to try it myself.


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## RedCarpetMatches (Jan 20, 2014)

Blah...that would be some next level organic shit. Love it! Wonder how much room it would take up. What about dark?


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## SupraSPL (Jan 20, 2014)

I agree we need sufficient oxygen for a good tea (.08 cfm/gal). But you can use an aquarium air pump and make a top notch microbial tea. They are only good for 1 or 2 liters but that is all you need if you are brewing a microbial tea. 5 gallons is enough to treat a small farm and a properly sized air pump will make quite a racket.

My pump is adjustable from 1 to 5 watts. I run it at 1 watt and brew about 1 liter at a time. That is more than enough for a 2400W HPS ROLS setup and would work for a medium size outdoor grow.


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## DANKSWAG (Jan 20, 2014)

Damm, okay trying to post this again.

Here are my ROLS, will not true ROLS as I used them immediately after harvest by transplanting established clones from my solo cups.

They had gone through some nitrogen deficiency issues after a few weeks in their new pots that I introduced my first protozoa and nematode tea too. Anywise I addressed with organic amendments of alfalfa and crab meal, in additional to top dressing with Oly Fish Compost and adding Oyster Shell Flour to possible needed calcium shortage that could affect available nitrogen. 


Well it has been a few weeks since facing that issue and these four gals have been mainlined trained since established with 3 new branch nodes from clones and I recently gave them some new tea which was very fishy smelling. 

For I brewed Oly Fish Compost with Eco Fish Hydrolisate and BSM. Diluted with water 1:1 and watered. 





View attachment 2968933


And Got This Brew..... which smelled like fish stew! But not foul rotten egg or alcohol or vinegar smell
The white ring is residue from making bokashi bran. So that is Bacillus bacteria which is good stuff.


And these are what my babies look like... days after sipping from the brew
These are ready to go one to flowering I have little white roots sticking out 
off their bottoms. They are ready to go into my PHOGS where their roots
can extend out of the bottom of these cloth pots into a reservoir aerated with
silica rock. Passive Hydroponics Good Stuff! Helps Keep a well watered and active
soil web. I can flower 3 foot plants in 1 gallon of soil and use tea to feed the soil. 


See my current PHOGS grow to see 1 gallon pots with 8 branch tops flowering nicely!

DankSwag


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## RedCarpetMatches (Jan 20, 2014)

DANKSWAG said:


> Damm, okay trying to post this again.
> 
> Here are my ROLS, will not true ROLS as I used them immediately after harvest by transplanting established clones from my solo cups.
> 
> ...


I've been having pic probs this past week. I can't upload most the time or view  Anyway, I heard that Oly is some good stuff. I love fish hydrolysate too! Should be a thread on it. I bet hyroot makes his own  All this tea brewing, and seeing other peeps recipes, really makes me want a microscope. I've always took the 'just follow me nose' approach. Lets face it...teas are just for fun  

DANKSTA...how does the taste in PHOGS compare to 'real' organics?


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## DANKSWAG (Jan 20, 2014)

RedCarpetMatches said:


> I've been having pic probs this past week. I can't upload most the time or view  Anyway, I heard that Oly is some good stuff. I love fish hydrolysate too! Should be a thread on it. I bet hyroot makes his own  All this tea brewing, and seeing other peeps recipes, really makes me want a microscope. I've always took the 'just follow me nose' approach. Lets face it...teas are just for fun
> 
> DANKSTA...how does the taste in PHOGS compare to 'real' organics?


Let's put it this way, what is considered season that is tasty in food I liken it to enjoying salt and pepper then one discovering other flavors from chili powder to cumin ect. To me I've tasted good stuff grown organically. I just haven't had it smell or taste as good as it seems to this way. 

Currently I am looking at the flowers glisten with oil and light reflecting like sparkles from the buds. They are so fat and stinky sticky sweet and on day 46, 10 days to 8 weeks hope the branches hold up they are not tied down.

DankSwag


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## DANKSWAG (Jan 20, 2014)

Try checking post again refresh F5 your web browser the pics should be corrected now.

DankSwag


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## DANKSWAG (Jan 20, 2014)

RedCarpetMatches said:


> I've been having pic probs this past week. I can't upload most the time or view  Anyway, I heard that Oly is some good stuff. I love fish hydrolysate too! Should be a thread on it. I bet hyroot makes his own  All this tea brewing, and seeing other peeps recipes, really makes me want a microscope. I've always took the 'just follow me nose' approach. Lets face it...teas are just for fun
> 
> DANKSTA...how does the taste in PHOGS compare to 'real' organics?


RCM.... what is 'real' to you bro?

DankSwag


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## boblawblah421 (Jan 20, 2014)

RedCarpetMatches said:


> Blah...that would be some next level organic shit. Love it! Wonder how much room it would take up. What about dark?


I'll have to build a chamber for the shrooms to grow in. It will be quite similar to my kombucha brewing station, except it will need to be more humid. Instead of continuously pulling the air out of the area, as I do with my kombucha station, the mushroom station will need an exhaust/intake fan on a timer. All stuff I have laying around already, other than the ready to go mycelium cakes for reishi, lion's mane, shiitake, and blue oyster mushrooms that is.


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## hyroot (Jan 20, 2014)

st0wandgrow said:


> I've thought about growing mushrooms in my garden to supplement CO2 (plus I love eating mushrooms).
> 
> Keep us posted on how this goes. If you give it the thumbs up I may have to try it myself.


Do mushrooms put out a good amount of co2. I did not know that


----------



## Abiqua (Jan 20, 2014)

hyroot said:


> Do mushrooms put out a good amount of co2. I did not know that


Not to beat a dead horse, but think about yeast and brewing beer, what is the byproduct? Co2. 
Are the shrooms fermenting the soil with the below ground mycellium and creating C02? I guess that is different, the aerobic/anaerobic environment.


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## RedCarpetMatches (Jan 21, 2014)

Prob with those kinds of set ups is you can't control them at night when plants breath in Oxygen...unless I'm missing something.


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## boblawblah421 (Jan 21, 2014)

RedCarpetMatches said:


> Prob with those kinds of set ups is you can't control them at night when plants breath in Oxygen...unless I'm missing something.


The beauty of a CO2 setup like this is that you don't have to keep your room sealed up like you would with a generator or a bottle. My compost tea, kombucha, and future edible shrooms will all continuously put off as much CO2 as they decide, for as long as they decide. Pair this up with a passive intake/exhaust cycling on at carefully calculated intervals (to ensure proper odor control), and I'll have plenty of fresh CO2 and O2, 24 hours a day.


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## RedCarpetMatches (Jan 21, 2014)

boblawblah421 said:


> The beauty of a CO2 setup like this is that you don't have to keep your room sealed up like you would with a generator or a bottle. My compost tea, kombucha, and future edible shrooms will all continuously put off as much CO2 as they decide, for as long as they decide. Pair this up with a passive intake/exhaust cycling on at carefully calculated intervals (to ensure proper odor control), and I'll have plenty of fresh CO2 and O2, 24 hours a day.


I really hope that works. Tricky tricky. Everything's going to have to click perfectly for 1500ppm and no odor. Even 800-1200 is worth it IMO!

I used to get some serious CO2 in my old aquariums with fermenting...one time a 2L bottle burst on me


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## hyroot (Jan 21, 2014)

I think just bring in outside air is enough co2. You want that balance of co2 and o2. When you increase co2 levels. You have to increase o2 levels . there needs to be a balance like everything else in growing. Outside air is only 2% co2. Plants can only uptake so much.


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## boblawblah421 (Jan 22, 2014)

hyroot said:


> I think just bring in outside air is enough co2. You want that balance of co2 and o2. When you increase co2 levels. You have to increase o2 levels . there needs to be a balance like everything else in growing. Outside air is only 2% co2. Plants can only uptake so much.


I couldn't agree more. This is why I combine a few natural sources of CO2 with a passive intake/exhaust system. My garden certainly seems to like it.


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## st0wandgrow (Jan 22, 2014)

hyroot said:


> Do mushrooms put out a good amount of co2. I did not know that


Good amount? That depends what you consider a good amount. I think it would add *some* CO2 to the room, but it certainly wouldn't replace a tank by any means.

That's all those "exhale CO2 bags" are. Just a bag full of mycelium.


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## DANKSWAG (Jan 22, 2014)

boblawblah421 said:


> I couldn't agree more. This is why I combine a few natural sources of CO2 with a passive intake/exhaust system. My garden certainly seems to like it.


It's like building the soil web balance in abundance and let the plant sort out what it needs from the what is produced in the environment. 

DankSwag


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## RedCarpetMatches (Jan 22, 2014)

After I get my set ups finished, new lights figured out, and more soil cooking, I'll be pumpin that CO2 to 1500ppm baby!!! I'll veg for four weeks and yield 3 grams/watt


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## hyroot (Jan 22, 2014)

RedCarpetMatches said:


> After I get my set ups finished, new lights figured out, and more soil cooking, I'll be pumpin that CO2 to 1500ppm baby!!! I'll veg for four weeks and yield 3 grams/watt


you mean 0.3 grams per watt. You need to veg to get high numbers. 12/12 from seed at most will get you 1.5 zips per plant in 3 gals. on average, 20 - 25 grams per plant


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## DANKSWAG (Jan 22, 2014)

RedCarpetMatches said:


> After I get my set ups finished, new lights figured out, and more soil cooking, I'll be pumpin that CO2 to 1500ppm baby!!! I'll veg for four weeks and yield 3 grams/watt


If you get 3gs per Watt, then I am packing up and moving in with you and learn from the master! 

Cause you'd be the Jedi of Dank pulling 3 g per watt!






DankSwag


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## RedCarpetMatches (Jan 22, 2014)

Love the pic DANK!!! Remember your plant will veg, no matter what, for about three weeks in 12/12fs. I think I'll get about 2 zips a plant in 3-5 gal pots in my current run. I can hit .3 in a solo with CFLs  Honestly, I suck ATM with all these changes. Can't wait to dial in the organics. Only on 1 bottle...ProTekt. I ditched the high P guano and now I feel naked...poor bat habitats. I top dressed with fish bone and VC 3 weeks into flower. I'm planning on just kelp, SST, little molasses, and plain water for the long run. Usually, I let soil get almost dry at this time. Think I should just continue with the perfect greenthumb watering throughout?


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## hyroot (Jan 22, 2014)

3 weeks veg time with a clone and seed are two different things.


----------



## RedCarpetMatches (Jan 22, 2014)

hyroot said:


> 3 weeks veg time with a clone and seed are two different things.


Duh. I'm trying a clone reveg on my biggin. Its one of those difficult strains. Been in and out of dome for almost 10 days with no roots showing or new growth. Leaves look nice tho. Never had roots take longer than day 10. Should I tug it a little, dig around, or just wait for new growth?

Also, will the fish bone TD'd be good enough for the extra P? Do I even need extra P if I cooked with f bone, alfalfa, and SRP? I don't notice any deficiencies so maybe just wasting amendments. 

Thanks higher ups.


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## arealmunson (Feb 26, 2014)

Here is my recipe for my ACT Tea any help would be appreciated , i am new to this and would like help.

Malibu Composite - 2 1/2 CUPS
Humic Soil - 2 CUPS
Earthworm Castings - 2 CUPS
Bat Guano (9-3-1) - 2 CUPS
Trace Mineral Additive - 1 CUP
Kelp (soluble) - 1/4 CUP
Molasses - 2 CUPS
Dolomite Lime - 2 CUPS
Hydrolized Fish (3-1-1)- 1 CUP

This is the VEG recipe for a 60 Gallon Brewer and i brew for 12 hours. I use this same recipe for bloom except i change out the Bat guano for Seabird Guano (0-11-0)
Any suggestions of too much or too little of something? Thanks So much


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## st0wandgrow (Feb 26, 2014)

arealmunson said:


> Here is my recipe for my ACT Tea any help would be appreciated , i am new to this and would like help.
> 
> Malibu Composite - 2 1/2 CUPS
> Humic Soil - 2 CUPS
> ...


An ACT is intended to multiply the microbes present in your compost/EWC. All you need is the compost and a foodstock to accomplish this. I would eliminate everything but the compost/EWC and the molasses (food stock). There really is no such thing as a "Veg" or "Flower" ACT. It's accomplishing the exact same thing whether you apply the tea during veg or flower. I think you're confusing an ACT with a nutrient tea.


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## arealmunson (Feb 26, 2014)

Your right i was confused. Thanks


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## Corbat420 (Mar 1, 2014)

arealmunson said:


> Here is my recipe for my ACT Tea any help would be appreciated , i am new to this and would like help.
> 
> Malibu Composite - 2 1/2 CUPS
> Humic Soil - 2 CUPS
> ...


AACT (Active, aerated, compost tea...)is a MEANS of brewing, you can use whatever you want as long as it promotes the growth of bacteria.... Let's make this simple.

Good for Bacteria and Vegetative Fertalization:


> *Malibu Composite - 2 1/2 CUPS
> Humic Soil - 2 CUPS
> Earthworm Castings - 2 CUPS
> Bat Guano (9-3-1) - 2 CUPS*
> ...


Leave everything else out of the mix, this will promote maximized bacterial production as well as produce cooked nutrient solution (cooked via the bacteria in the mix...) which is readily available for uptake.



> *I would eliminate everything but the compost/EWC and the molasses (food stock). There really is no such thing as a "Veg" or "Flower" ACT.*


Stop spreading Misinformation and look at the starting post.... anyone who compares the first post to your reply will see just how wrong you are, and why... just for the record, you do not believe fertilization is important?


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## st0wandgrow (Mar 1, 2014)

Corbat420 said:


> AACT (Active, aerated, compost tea...)is a MEANS of brewing, you can use whatever you want as long as it promotes the growth of bacteria.... Let's make this simple.
> 
> Good for Bacteria and Vegetative Fertalization:
> 
> ...


You're a glutten for punishment....

Are you aware of what the purpose of an AACT is? I don't care what the op had to say. Are you suggesting that everyone that starts a thread has a phd on the subject at hand and is always 100% correct?

The sole purpose of an AACT is to multiply the microbes that are present in whatever source of compost/vermicpmpost that is being used. To accomplish this there are only two things needed: compost, and a food stock for the microbes. Molasses serves its purpose well as a food stock. Adding any other types of meals, or other inputs is not recommended as it can actually hinder the microbial multiplication.... So unless you own a $5,000 microscope and want to conduct studies on how each input affects the end result then keeping it simple is the recommended approach. If you don't believe me go ahead and track down Microbeman and ask him. He has dedicated his life to this art and will back up everything I'm telling you.

Maybe you can brew a tea to help cure your foot-in-mouth disease...


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## st0wandgrow (Mar 1, 2014)

Just to be clear here.... other food stocks can be added which *could* further the goal of microbial multiplication, but again, without the aid of a microscope you're throwing mud at a wall. Elaine Ingham, Tim Wilson, etc would tell you the same thing. Compost and molasses is all that's needed.

I don't claim to be an expert on the topic, but I'm bright enough to listen to the people who are.


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## M1dAmber (Mar 1, 2014)

st0wandgrow said:


> You're a glutten for punishment....
> 
> Are you aware of what the purpose of an AACT is? I don't care what the op had to say. Are you suggesting that everyone that starts a thread has a phd on the subject at hand and is always 100% correct?
> 
> ...


Listen to this man, he knows his shit.
Also, that last sentence made me almost laugh my coffee out of my nose...

*You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to st0wandgrow again.*


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## DonPetro (Mar 1, 2014)

So adding things like alfalfa meal, kelp meal, greensand and rock phosphate would be better composted in the worm bin so they are bio-available in the vermicompost rather than adding at the beginning of the brewing process?
Also, does anyone have experience using insect frass? I have this product i would like to use in my brews.
http://www.primenutrients.ca/index.php


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## GandalfdaGreen (Mar 1, 2014)

DonPetro said:


> So adding things like alfalfa meal, kelp meal, greensand and rock phosphate would be better composted in the worm bin so they are bio-available in the vermicompost rather than adding at the beginning of the brewing process?
> Also, does anyone have experience using insect frass? I have this product i would like to use in my brews.
> http://www.primenutrients.ca/index.php


Go to Rrog's site in the Michigan section. Ask Rrog. His word is gospel to me. I would try it in your tea. I'd use half of what they rec per gallon. I want to hear the results. 


*Full-Strength Insect Frass Tea Extract (root drench):*
Add up to 1/2 cup insect frass per gallon 


http://www.onfrass.com/faq.html


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## DonPetro (Mar 1, 2014)

Yea they recommend 4 tsp/litre which i thought was a little much since its a fungal food and i only brew in half-gallon batches. Thanks, G.


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## st0wandgrow (Mar 1, 2014)

GandalfdaGreen said:


> Go to Rrog's site in the Michigan section. Ask Rrog. His word is gospel to me. I would try it in your tea. I'd use half of what they rec per gallon. I want to hear the results.
> 
> 
> *Full-Strength Insect Frass Tea Extract (root drench):*
> ...



Gandalf is right. Rrog is the best source of info you'll find. I can tell you in advance that he is not the biggest advocate of teas that you will find. He is all about the compost.

I don't want to come off the wrong way here. I'm not saying that other ingredients are bad per se, they're just not typically necessary. I would encourage anyone to experiment with stuff like this though. The problem is that you have no way to quantify your results without a microscope. Check out Tim's website. microbeorganics.com. He's got some great recipes with precise measurements, brew times, water temperature, etc. He's discussed this topic umpteen times on different forums, and he is an advocate of keeping it simple.


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## DonPetro (Mar 1, 2014)

Thanks guys. I'll seek out Rrog. Cant stop learning. Haha


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## Corbat420 (Mar 2, 2014)

> *So unless you own a $5,000 microscope and want to conduct studies on how each input affects the end result then keeping it simple is the recommended approach. If you don't believe me go ahead and track down Microbeman and ask him. He has dedicated his life to this art and will back up everything I'm telling you.
> 
> I don't claim to be an expert on the topic, but I'm bright enough to listen to the people who are.
> *


Heres a little fact for you thats been known around the forum... i was one of teh first people on here to bring the organic's section to life, why? Because i am an expert in the subject..... i was trained and educated at the Vancouver island university in the _Horticultural Technician program. _i was one of the first people in Modern organics to start breaking rules that people were seen as "taboo" such as using MEAT as a fertilizer (we use fish, why not others?) And Using Organic ester's of Phosphoric acid to produce Viable Organic Fertilizers.... i've Worked for major corporations helping develop fertalizer regime's AND before i had my degree i helped the University Of Montana develop their Nutrient management program.... http://landresources.montana.edu/nm/

P.S: This isn't the 1950's and Microscopes are CHEAP.... seriously, $300 (1 Oz)... http://www.ebay.com/itm/40X-2000X-LED-Digital-Binocular-Compound-Microscope-with-3D-Stage-USB-Imager-/200841810689

People wonder why this forum is going to shit, then they refuse to accept information by those who have actually WORKED for it....

Edit: Before you go spouting off some more BS here's a little doc on the Essential nutrients needed for plant life... they have to come from somewhere, they cant be cooked out if they are not already in the soil in proper amounts.... and for them to be there in the proper amounts they need to be ADDED... http://www.ncagr.gov/agronomi/pdffiles/essnutr.pdf

and MAYBE you should advise people to actual TEST THEIR SOIL, that way they know whats actually going on and not fucking everything up on your word. when i give recommendations its generalized balanced fertilizers that will not cause damage by throwing fertilizer amounts out of alignment...http://www.ebay.com/itm/RAPITEST-PREMIUM-SOIL-TEST-KIT-LAWN-FLOWER-PLANT-TEST-GARDEN-TESTER-pH-NPK-/271390934454?pt=US_Garden_Tools&var=&hash=item3f302905b6




> *"plants will use essential elements only in proportion to each other, and the element that is in shortest supply&#8212;in proportion to the rest&#8212;will determine how well the plant uses the other nutrient elements."*


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## st0wandgrow (Mar 2, 2014)

So you're an expert on the subject, the original RIU organic gangster, and a rebellious rule breaker huh? lol Sorry, but I think you're full of shit. If you had such an extensive education and background in organics you wouldn't be using/promoting hydro store bottles and struggling to understand the definition of organics. Plus someone with a formal education would be able to spell beyond a 3'rd grade level. I'm not here to impress people like you're trying (and struggling) to do. I try to help people.

And I have no idea why you're bringing up the topic of amendments in soil now? Adding organic inputs to your soil and brewing a compost tea are different chapters in your book skippy.


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## st0wandgrow (Mar 2, 2014)

Corbat420 said:


> Heres a little fact for you thats been known around the forum... i was one of teh first people on here to bring the organic's section to life, why? Because i am an expert in the subject..... i was trained and educated at the Vancouver island university in the _Horticultural Technician program. _i was one of the first people in Modern organics to start breaking rules that people were seen as "taboo" such as using MEAT as a fertilizer (we use fish, why not others?) And Using Organic ester's of Phosphoric acid to produce Viable Organic Fertilizers.... i've Worked for major corporations helping develop fertalizer regime's AND before i had my degree i helped the University Of Montana develop their Nutrient management program.... http://landresources.montana.edu/nm/
> 
> P.S: This isn't the 1950's and Microscopes are CHEAP.... seriously, $300 (1 Oz)... http://www.ebay.com/itm/40X-2000X-LED-Digital-Binocular-Compound-Microscope-with-3D-Stage-USB-Imager-/200841810689
> 
> ...



I have to quote this self aggrandizing rant before you wake up and erase this. I have to assume that you were about 12 Molson Canadians deep when you posted this, eh??


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## Corbat420 (Mar 2, 2014)

st0wandgrow said:


> I have to quote this self aggrandizing rant before you wake up and erase this. I have to assume that you were about 12 Molson Canadians deep when you posted this, eh??


Bwahahaha Still don't know your place? Maybe you should actually look at what was posted there, cross reference and see what the common denominator is, maybe you will start figuring shit out....

Then again, this IS RIU, and there's a reason the 5 people on here with university degree's don't usually bother with peon's suck as yourself.... You people some how think you know more than people who went to university, How in the fuck does that make sense?



> * you wouldn't be using/promoting hydro store bottles and struggling to understand the definition of organics.*


#1 i personaly have worked for AN and mike Straumietis developing the AN Organic line.... Like i said in the last post, i have worked for major fertilizer corporations.... and the only one struggling to understand anything is YOU my friend...


> or·gan·ic
> ôr&#712;ganik/
> _adjective_
> adjective: *organic*
> ...


Of Biological Origin and Containing Carbon.... those are the ONLY TWO THINGS that constitute organic..... its not very hard, for normal people, but i can see how someone such as yourself with no actual formal training would believe FALSE definitions....



> *
> And I have no idea why you're bringing up the topic of amendments in soil now? Adding organic inputs to your soil and brewing a compost tea are different chapters in your book skippy. *


^ That Shows just how little you know.... Compost tea's are soil amendments, they are amending the soil with readily available nutrients that do not need to be cooked.... Adding Directly to the soil is a shorter but Less effective way of doing the exact same thing...... Amendments and Compost tea's are both nutrient additives.......



> *I have to quote this self aggrandizing rant before you wake up and erase this. I have to assume that you were about 12 Molson Canadians deep when you posted this, eh??*


See how i can pick apart your "Argument" and remove the Falsifications, add proper information and ensure the statement is Factual... All you do is make Generalized, personal attacks... Where are your fact's??



> *I try to help people.*


Well, you cant help people with false information.... maybe you should try and educate yourself?

http://www.mediafire.com/view/ynm3omzmezz/The+Marijuana+Grower's+Guide+-+Mel+Frank+&+Ed+Rosenthal.doc
http://www.mediafire.com/view/jwnmizj03io/Robert+C+Clarke+-+Marijuana+Botany+An+Advanced+Study.txt
http://www.e-reading.bz/book.php?book=136434

There are 3 books on Organics and Marijuana... read them all then come back and talk...


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## Scroga (Mar 2, 2014)

Okay..have we finished now? 
How do your feel pondzyme would work in a tea? That is , would it?


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## snowboarder396 (Mar 4, 2014)

They don't produced "cooked" anything. The purpose of an AACT is to multiply and breed microorganisms to add. This replenishes or builds the microorganisms in your soil. Once in your soil they break down organic matter which is excreted and made readily available for uptake by the plant. And yes.... I do study plants, chemistry, microbiology, etc. and go to a university...


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## st0wandgrow (Mar 4, 2014)

snowboarder396 said:


> They don't produced "cooked" anything. The purpose of an AACT is to multiply and breed microorganisms to add. This replenishes or builds the microorganisms in your soil. Once in your soil they break down organic matter which is excreted and made readily available for uptake by the plant. And yes.... I do study plants, chemistry, microbiology, etc. and go to a university...


^Thank you!^

I wasn't going to argue any further with him, and since you summed it up so well I'll just leave it at that .....


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## Scroga (Mar 4, 2014)

There are a lot of variations of aact... Some are produced with microbes for fighting pathogens...some are produced with microbes and nutrient supplements (alfalfa,kelp ect) for the purpose of amending soils...you guys might be being a little strict with your definitions of an aact... Just sayin


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## snowboarder396 (Mar 4, 2014)

I'm pretty sure microbes don't cook nutrients.... Just saying


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## Scroga (Mar 4, 2014)

haha...yes I see what he did there..


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## snowboarder396 (Mar 4, 2014)

Not to mention if your gonna state that you are smarter than someone by saying your educated and went to a university then you Damn well better be citing a scholarly article/journal and doing it properly. Not citing some website. Makes me think of that tv commercial about the chick talking about the internet and her French supermodel boyfriend. I guess if it comes from the internet it must be true... Point being do not try and insult someone with superior intellect by stating your knowledge and the fact that you have been to college, yet can not cite scholarly information yourself. It just makes yourself look bad..


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## DonPetro (Mar 4, 2014)

snowboarder396 said:


> Not to mention if your gonna state that you are smarter than someone by saying your educated and went to a university then you Damn well better be citing a scholarly article/journal and doing it properly. Not citing some website. Makes me think of that tv commercial about the chick talking about the internet and her French supermodel boyfriend. I guess if it comes from the internet it must be true... Point being do not try and insult someone with superior intellect by stating your knowledge and the fact that you have been to college, yet can not cite scholarly information yourself. It just makes yourself look bad..


Well said my man


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## Dr.J20 (Mar 4, 2014)

Scroga said:


> There are a lot of variations of aact... Some are produced with microbes for fighting pathogens...some are produced with microbes and nutrient supplements (alfalfa,kelp ect) for the purpose of amending soils...you guys might be being a little strict with your definitions of an aact... Just sayin


well...there's nutrient teas, and enzyme teas, and actively aerated compost teas, and fermented and non-fermented botanical teas,and manure teas, and leachate teas, and...so, while there are many "teas" used in the organic garden, the acronym "AACT" would be referring to the actively aerated compost tea which is used primarily to replenish or inoculate the soil medium with beneficial microbes, as has been stated innumerably all over this website.


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## Scroga (Mar 4, 2014)

Yes you are so right! Looks a though I am getting my definitions muddled up.. So why do I see a lot of recipes that are aact with added nutrient sources which I imagine is too amend soils/feed?


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## st0wandgrow (Mar 5, 2014)

The added ingredients are food stocks for the microbes. The duration of the brew and various ingredients can influence growth of either bacteria or fungi.


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## Scroga (Mar 5, 2014)

So alfalfa doesn't promote nitrogen in the brew?


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## Dr.J20 (Mar 5, 2014)

alfalfa meal would be there primarily as a foodstock for your microbes, but yes, if you poured it straight into your mix, you would also have a little nitrogen boost. We may be talking at cross purposes here: though your addition of alfalfa may also add nitrogen, you add the alfalfa to the tea for the primary purpose of feeding the microbes.


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## Scroga (Mar 5, 2014)

Is this true for the kelp and fulvic additions also? This for clearing this up...
Normally id ask for links and charts but I know you guys are respected members...


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## st0wandgrow (Mar 5, 2014)

Scroga said:


> So alfalfa doesn't promote nitrogen in the brew?


The food stocks that you add are feeding the microbes during their multiplication. By using different items you can influence the tea to an extent, steering more towards either a fungal or bacteria dominant tea. Once the microbes have consumed the food stocks and have been applied to your medium, those microbes either deficate (poop) or are eaten by predators further up the food chain and a portion of the ingested foodstocks then become plant available as nutrients. However, the plant is in charge during this process. It will discharge differnet exudates through it's roots to attract certain types of microbes to the rhizosphere (root zone) in order to aquire what it is looking for during that particular phase of it's development.

I think most of us started out growing plants using synthetic fertilizers. As such we all became accustomed to feeding the plant by measuring out 5ml of this, and 10ml of that in an attempt to give the plant a well rounded source of macro/micro nutrients and minerals. The beauty of organics is it's simplicity. We don't have to worry about measuring out all of these ingredients anymore. Build a well rounded base soil full of organic ammendments, and inocultae the soil with an army of beneficial microbes and your job is mostly done. The plant is now in charge, and will take from the soil (in unison with the microbes) what it wants, when it needs it. Compost teas don't need to be complicated by a bunch of ingredients. Why not keep it simple? Molasses is a cheap, easily sourced food stock that serves it's purpose well. As long as you are starting with a good source of compost in your soil, it can be argued that teas really arent necessary at all ..... you already have the compost in your soil which is full of microbes. Experimenting is fun, and gives us a sense that we are helping the plant in some way, but when you step back and realize what's going on in the soil and how that nurtures the plant it will become obvious that less is more in most cases. We are trying to mimic nature. In nature there are no bottles and teas .... just organic matter that is broken down by a variety of critters which in turn feeds the plants.


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## DonPetro (Mar 5, 2014)

Wow that says it all right there.


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## Dr.J20 (Mar 5, 2014)

st0wandgrow said:


> The food stocks that you add are feeding the microbes during their multiplication. By using different items you can influence the tea to an extent, steering more towards either a fungal or bacteria dominant tea. Once the microbes have consumed the food stocks and have been applied to your medium, those microbes either deficate (poop) or are eaten by predators further up the food chain and a portion of the ingested foodstocks then become plant available as nutrients. However, the plant is in charge during this process. It will discharge differnet exudates through it's roots to attract certain types of microbes to the rhizosphere (root zone) in order to aquire what it is looking for during that particular phase of it's development.
> 
> I think most of us started out growing plants using synthetic fertilizers. As such we all became accustomed to feeding the plant by measuring out 5ml of this, and 10ml of that in an attempt to give the plant a well rounded source of macro/micro nutrients and minerals. The beauty of organics is it's simplicity. We don't have to worry about measuring out all of these ingredients anymore. Build a well rounded base soil full of organic ammendments, and inocultae the soil with an army of beneficial microbes and your job is mostly done. The plant is now in charge, and will take from the soil (in unison with the microbes) what it wants, when it needs it. Compost teas don't need to be complicated by a bunch of ingredients. Why not keep it simple? Molasses is a cheap, easily sourced food stock that serves it's purpose well. As long as you are starting with a good source of compost in your soil, it can be argued that teas really arent necessary at all ..... you already have the compost in your soil which is full of microbes. Experimenting is fun, and gives us a sense that we are helping the plant in some way, but when you step back and realize what's going on in the soil and how that nurtures the plant it will become obvious that less is more in most cases. We are trying to mimic nature. In nature there are no bottles and teas .... just organic matter that is broken down by a variety of critters which in turn feeds the plants.


well said st0w!


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## Scroga (Mar 5, 2014)

Great info thankyou! So there is no point in me adding mycos and bennies together because one will out compete the other? I'm using dwc and have leant the error of my ways with synthetics..I'm all about the teas now...but it seems I am randomly adding ingredients...a pinch of this a dash of that.. Icing sugar for foods lol...the molases is in the mail...
P.s I'm not getting foam? My recovering girls are growing nicely but no explosive white root growth as such..?


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## Scotch089 (Mar 5, 2014)

That explanation was just... perfect. Touched on every end. Thank you. Among some others on the forum- THAT kind of information is golden, couple threads make you lose hope now and again.

1.) Can we store these teas? how long? And do we need to reacticvate by bubbling and feeding the bennies again before innoc?

2.) Will the drained Kelp/Alfalfa/ewc/etc.etc. still contain any/enough of anything worth reusing with topdress/teas?

3.) When is the most beneficial time to use the teas? 

Hang on.. I am coming from a hydro history using the heisenberg tea and that puts me in a 36-48 hour window before I see serious activity/foam... the tea I brewed last night (my first organic tea brewed and applied to soil. ever.) was foaming over the lip within 15 minutes. 

3b.) Should I be using these teas at the highest "point of foamage?" Draws me back to the storing/rebrewing questions, should I not be storing these at all and just brewing what I need?

4.) I used to add molasses as the kickstarter, since I added kelp/afalfa/... is it necessary to continue adding molasses? How little of each do we REALLY need to get them rolling? 

Fuckin 20 questions but I do appreciate all the time the members put forward in these threads, kick ass organic section.


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## Dr.J20 (Mar 6, 2014)

Scotch089 said:


> That explanation was just... perfect. Touched on every end. Thank you. Among some others on the forum- THAT kind of information is golden, couple threads make you lose hope now and again.
> 
> 1.) Can we store these teas? how long? And do we need to reacticvate by bubbling and feeding the bennies again before innoc?
> 
> ...


First off, I think everyone would do well to give microbeorganics a close and careful read: www.microbeorganics.com
Now, to get to your questions:
1) These (AACT) teas go anaerobic very quickly so you will want to use them right away. Some store-bought versions claim viability with refrigeration of up to 7 days, but I'd be willing to wager you get better effectivity from fresh, home-brewed.

2) Absolutely you can throw your leftovers in the compost pile, top dress your veggie garden etc.

3a) by "these" teas, I'm assuming you're still talking about AACT, but most people are using them once or twice throughout a grow, as the purpose is largely geared towards microbial life inoculation. When you get into nutrient/botanical teas, enzyme teas, fermented plant extracts, then there will be different purposes and their concomitant, varying "timings." 

--I'm unfamilar with the "hydro-heisenberg" tea--
3b) foaming is largely a myth. the way to tell what's going on in your tea is to get a microscope and place a slide sample under it. while foaming may indicate the activity of enzymes, saponins, other surfactants etc., and it certainly isn't a problem or a danger, it is largely forum-lore to make any hard-and-fast judgements about your AACT based on "foaminess"

4) Molasses is a good all around (feeds both bacteria and fungi) foodstock; extraordinarily small percentages of kelp can be helpful, but you needn't overcomplicate your recipe: for most, good quality EWC and 2tbsp/gal molasses bubbled for 36 hrs is a good inoculating tea. 

5) In anticipation that you read the microbeorganics.com section on teas, you want to make sure that if you decide to add fish hydrolysate to your tea, you add actual fish hydrolysate and not fish emulsion. Hydrolysate is produced via a cold water process while emulsion requires a processes that includes boiling up all the microbe goodies we are looking for :shocked:

best of luck,
be easy,


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## st0wandgrow (Mar 6, 2014)

Spot on!
*You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to Dr.J20 again.*


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## Scroga (Mar 6, 2014)

Thanks for the read! So nobody uses fulvic in their recipes?
I don't understand why my plants are growing, slowly, but no explosive root growth?
Ewc
Icing sugar (waiting for molases to arrive)
Hydro store trichoderma 
Aquarium bacteria (nitripro)
Fulvic dash

Made in 20ltr bucket
Am debating wether to add pondzyme or not??
Will be dropping the fulvic from now on...
Thoughts appreciated


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## Scroga (Mar 6, 2014)

Will soon be adding
Neutrog gogo juice
Neutrog Seamungus


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## DANKSWAG (Mar 6, 2014)

someone once said.... KISS


DankSwag


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## Scroga (Mar 6, 2014)

I know I know , but my basic recipe isn't giving me results like everyone else...
I'm aiming for a hiesenburg type mix...i need root growth and just not seeing it..maybe I need more air?


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## DANKSWAG (Mar 6, 2014)

Scroga said:


> I know I know , but my basic recipe isn't giving me results like everyone else...
> I'm aiming for a hiesenburg type mix...i need root growth and just not seeing it..maybe I need more air?


I hear you, no worries. Are you using air (cloth pots)? What is your mix percentages for your soil, do you follow the 1/3 peat moss, 1/3 compost (ewc), 1/3 aeration material? 

DankSwag


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## Scroga (Mar 6, 2014)

I'm using dwc brother


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## DANKSWAG (Mar 6, 2014)

Deep Water Culture eh? I see now. Too much work to stay on top of maintaining water, that is why I went passive hydro.

DankSwag


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## KLITE (Mar 7, 2014)

Hi all

Ive dabbed in organics over the years but never tried the teas. I have a few doubts.Do i have to dilute the tea after its done bubling? At what ratio? Im planning on making guano tea for flower and worm casting for veg. Can i use humbolt honey instead of molasses?
Do i not risk burning the plants with some recipes ive read on the first page if the plants are already in a richly ammended soil being pushed to the very max without being burnt?


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## st0wandgrow (Mar 7, 2014)

KLITE said:


> Hi all
> 
> Ive dabbed in organics over the years but never tried the teas. I have a few doubts.Do i have to dilute the tea after its done bubling? At what ratio? Im planning on making guano tea for flower and worm casting for veg. Can i use humbolt honey instead of molasses?
> Do i not risk burning the plants with some recipes ive read on the first page if the plants are already in a richly ammended soil being pushed to the very max without being burnt?



I've never made a guano tea so I'll leave that for someone else to answer. As far as a compost tea, you can absolutely dilute it if you wish, but it's not necessary. A compost tea won't burn your plants, and can be applied as often as you like. As far as the "Humbolt Honey" is concerned, it's probably fine. Read the ingredients. Most of these products are made from molasses anyway so you're probably OK to use it.


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## JohnDoeOntario (Mar 7, 2014)

Slowly getting off bottled nutes. Looking for some tea-soil advice. I have made a 10liter vortex bioreactor (brewer, bioreactor sounds more badass) and am brewing my first tea. I went 1/2 cup EWC and 2.5 tablespoons of molasses. Its been brewing for about 24hrs now, Im watering tomorrow night. My soil mix is 75% promix hp and 25%ewc.

Im using the rest of my AN PH perfect line of bottle nutes and brewing teas for inbetween feedings. My question retains more to the soil.

Is there anything I can add to my soil mix to improve overall health and cooperation with the teas?
And again for foiler spray, anything that will put the cherry ontop of the organic milkshake?

Thanks, and wonderful thread so far (except for some drama lol)


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## DonPetro (Mar 8, 2014)

You are really gonna want to look at building a properly amended soil mix for your next run. That really is the key imo. Look up some great recipes in the ROLS sticky.


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## JohnDoeOntario (Mar 8, 2014)

DonPetro said:


> You are really gonna want to look at building a properly amended soil mix for your next run. That really is the key imo. Look up some great recipes in the ROLS sticky.


I have done that thanks so much. Between that thread and Canns organic thread I have hatched a plan and will begin collecting the things I need over time. Im trying to burn through my bottle nutes before I begin a no till soil.

For the base mix
1/3 vermicompost 
1/3 pearlite 
1/3 Moss

Could I just mix Promix HP and then the vermicompost?


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## KLITE (Mar 8, 2014)

st0wandgrow said:


> I've never made a guano tea so I'll leave that for someone else to answer. As far as a compost tea, you can absolutely dilute it if you wish, but it's not necessary. A compost tea won't burn your plants, and can be applied as often as you like. As far as the "Humbolt Honey" is concerned, it's probably fine. Read the ingredients. Most of these products are made from molasses anyway so you're probably OK to use it.


Thanks for input pal. Im just thinking of checking the ec and if its too high ill dilute i suppose...


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## Scroga (Mar 8, 2014)

You shouldn't get a high ec reading due to low salt content..


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## Scroga (Mar 8, 2014)

So do you guys breed mycos with the bennies or seperatly? Mycos first?


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## GandalfdaGreen (Mar 8, 2014)

st0wandgrow said:


> I've never made a guano tea so I'll leave that for someone else to answer. As far as a compost tea, you can absolutely dilute it if you wish, but it's not necessary. A compost tea won't burn your plants, and can be applied as often as you like. As far as the *"Humbolt Honey"* is concerned, it's probably fine. Read the ingredients. Most of these products are made from molasses anyway so you're probably OK to use it.



Humbolt Honey is cool to use.


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## KLITE (Mar 9, 2014)

GandalfdaGreen said:


> Humbolt Honey is cool to use.


It has sea weed extract in it tooplus a few other bits and bobs, i bet it does give it an extra little punch. Been brewing a tea for 24 hours now and theres already some nice foam forming on top, measured PPM and its at 700 or something. Put less than half a cup of bat guano 1 cup of my own worm castings/compost and 25ml of humbolt honey. 
On the worm matter, doesn anyone else put 2 or 3 worms in the pots to keep the roots company?


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## DonPetro (Mar 9, 2014)

I never actually add worms but always end up with a few from them hatching in the soil mix.


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## Elijah Cloud (Mar 19, 2014)

I've used AACT just 3 times now and I've seen the most explosive growth. I collected some deer poo for the first time today. You can't imagine how excited I am about shit these days. Might as well have been collecting magical unicorn poo. Anyway, If I make AACT whole, using no nylon bag in my 5 gallon bucket, can I dump my solids ontop of the soil, even if I'm feeding the plants every other watering? This would be a lot of solids for the amount of aact I apply. What are some proposed ways of reusing the spent solid portions? Right now, I'm saving them for a future compost soil creation. Can and do some effectively resuse those solids for the next brew? If so, for how many brews? I'm using 1/3c ewc, 2/3c bat/seabird guanos, kelp, molasses (standard recipe). I want to effectively use everything to the highest nature order possible. What do you suggest I do with my bag of shit when my brew is done?


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## charface (Mar 19, 2014)

Elijah Cloud said:


> I've used AACT just 3 times now and I've seen the most explosive growth. I collected some deer poo for the first time today. You can't imagine how excited I am about shit these days. Might as well have been collecting magical unicorn poo. Anyway, If I make AACT whole, using no nylon bag in my 5 gallon bucket, can I dump my solids ontop of the soil, even if I'm feeding the plants every other watering? This would be a lot of solids for the amount of aact I apply. What are some proposed ways of reusing the spent solid portions? Right now, I'm saving them for a future compost soil creation. Can and do some effectively resuse those solids for the next brew? If so, for how many brews? I'm using 1/3c ewc, 2/3c bat/seabird guanos, kelp, molasses (standard recipe). I want to effectively use everything to the highest nature order possible. What do you suggest I do with my bag of shit when my brew is done?


Thats funny.
I have been picturing myself 
in the yard picking up bunny poops as soon as they come out again.
Weed does strange things to a man.


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## DonPetro (Mar 19, 2014)

If you recycle your soil, it would be good to toss the leftovers in there. Into the compost pile or onto the garden would be great too. Depending on how many plants you have, top-dressing with it is all good. Just keep it away from the main stalk.


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## Elijah Cloud (Mar 19, 2014)

Thanks for the topdressing tip of avoiding the main stalk! That's helpful. Perhaps I will try to mix the spent material with some crushed eggshells. I am hypothesizing that the the material is in a safer bio-format after being consumed by the microbes, but it eases my mind to think that eggshells might offer some additional ph buffer? I really don't know... It just seems to make good sense to mix in something else organic, making the superfood a little more well rounded as a topdressing. I'll tell you what I do know.... AACT is amazing and poo IS magical. And... poo fixations are hilarious.

P. S. I took my last spend material and added it to a collection of dry bunny poo inside a paper bag (and shook it all about). Figured the bunny poo would absorb the moisture of the spent material allowing me to temporarily keep this bag inside until I can construct a proper composting recepticle for outside.


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## st0wandgrow (Mar 19, 2014)

charface said:


> Thats funny.
> I have been picturing myself
> in the yard picking up bunny poops as soon as they come out again.
> Weed does strange things to a man.


I don't use guanos so I really can't comment much on that .... except to say that they are one of the few things in organics that can burn a plant, so keep that in mind.

I like to take the spent material from a nutrient tea (typically alfalfa meal/kelp meal) and feed it to my worms. I let them process it and then use the castings as a top dress.


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## charface (Mar 19, 2014)

st0wandgrow said:


> I don't use guanos so I really can't comment much on that .... except to say that they are one of the few things in organics that can burn a plant, so keep that in mind.
> 
> I like to take the spent material from a nutrient tea (typically alfalfa meal/kelp meal) and feed it to my worms. I let them process it and then use the castings as a top dress.


Thats pretty interesting.


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## DonPetro (Mar 20, 2014)

st0wandgrow said:


> I don't use guanos so I really can't comment much on that .... except to say that they are one of the few things in organics that can burn a plant, so keep that in mind.
> 
> I like to take the spent material from a nutrient tea (typically alfalfa meal/kelp meal) and feed it to my worms. I let them process it and then use the castings as a top dress.


Stow, when you make a nutrient tea, what are your ratios?


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## st0wandgrow (Mar 20, 2014)

DonPetro said:


> Stow, when you make a nutrient tea, what are your ratios?


In veg I use 3/4 cup of alfalfa meal, and a 1/4 cup kelp meal to 5 gallons of water, bubbled for 24 hours. I only bubble with 4 gallons of water and then add another gallon once I'm done because it will foam up a bit and make a mess if you fill the 5 gallon bucket to the top.

In the first few weeks of flower I use a 1/2 cup of alfalfa meal and 1/2 cup of kelp meal, same ditty as above.

This is per Coot/Lumperdawg's advice.


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## Dr.J20 (Mar 20, 2014)

st0wandgrow said:


> In veg I use 3/4 cup of alfalfa meal, and a 1/4 cup kelp meal to 5 gallons of water, bubbled for 24 hours. I only bubble with 4 gallons of water and then add another gallon once I'm done because it will foam up a bit and make a mess if you fill the 5 gallon bucket to the top.
> 
> In the first few weeks of flower I use a 1/2 cup of alfalfa meal and 1/2 cup of kelp meal, same ditty as above.
> 
> This is per Coot/Lumperdawg's advice.


are you giving this nute tea on more of a schedule, or as-needed basis?


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## hyroot (Mar 20, 2014)

st0wandgrow said:


> In veg I use 3/4 cup of alfalfa meal, and a 1/4 cup kelp meal to 5 gallons of water, bubbled for 24 hours. I only bubble with 4 gallons of water and then add another gallon once I'm done because it will foam up a bit and make a mess if you fill the 5 gallon bucket to the top.
> 
> In the first few weeks of flower I use a 1/2 cup of alfalfa meal and 1/2 cup of kelp meal, same ditty as above.
> 
> This is per Coot/Lumperdawg's advice.


you know the buckets from home depot and lowes are 5.4 gallons for similar reasons. the walmart ones are 5 exactly. I've been using 1/2 cup alfalfa meal. do you think the 1/4 cup would make a noticeable difference?


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## st0wandgrow (Mar 20, 2014)

It's kind of evolved Dr J. Maybe an old habit that was hard to shake, but I started out using it on are regular, weekly "feeding" schedule. It seemed to work just dandy, but i had no real way to quantify that. More recently I've only been using it if I feel a plant needs it .... which is pretty unlikely given the assortment of dry amendments that are already in the soil. 

Teas can be a great tool, but I've really been in to simplifying things lately. The worm bin is where it's at IMO.


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## Dr.J20 (Mar 21, 2014)

st0wandgrow said:


> It's kind of evolved Dr J. Maybe an old habit that was hard to shake, but I started out using it on are regular, weekly "feeding" schedule. It seemed to work just dandy, but i had no real way to quantify that. More recently I've only been using it if I feel a plant needs it .... which is pretty unlikely given the assortment of dry amendments that are already in the soil.
> 
> Teas can be a great tool, but I've really been in to simplifying things lately. The worm bin is where it's at IMO.


I really have to agree with you on both counts. I do think the 'feed schedule' mentality is a holdover from the synthetic growing days, where it made sense because your limiting factors were salt buildup in the medium and the feeding rate of the plant: hence cycles of flushing and "precise" feed schedules. The further away we get from thinking of plants as "things" (as opposed to beings), the easier it is to understand that you're job as a gardener is to pay attention to the plants to HELP THEM get what they need, when they need it. kind of a teamwork situation rather than a master-slave dynamic (yes i am making an oblique reference to gwf hegel here). 
As to the worms, i never would have imagined how much fun, and how into farming worms I am. I've been getting more and more conscious about what I feed those lil fellers to make sure both they're happy and the vermipost they're making is rich. 

On that note, i've been kinda slurrying my worm food. I'll chop it in my under-the-sink compost bin (that one is strictly for the worms, the compost pile outside gets everything they don't like to eat!) routinely and let it rot a bit for a week or two. I'm now completely avoiding garlic, onion, and potatoes and have phased out all of the bread products that I used to allow (unless i absolutely have to add something dry for moisture purposes and don't want to add more cardboard or leaves). I've been adding my spent kelp meal and alfalfa meal to the slurry as well. The upside of slurrying is a ready-to-eat foodsource that has a good moisture content and can be fed in easy to handle globs. The downsides are (1) difficult to weigh if you like to keep a precise track of this, (2) possibility of anaerobic conditions if you let the slurry sit/rot too long, (3) difficulty discerning what stuff your worms like and eat quickly, and what they don't like--if you're into that sort of thing. I'd recommend waiting until you get a little bit of an idea of your worms' tastes before slurrying. 

I'm hoping that by paying closer attention to what goes into my worm bin, I'll have a nice diverse, rich vermicompost with which to topdress and make foliars. I think I'd like to spend a little more time learning about the phyllosphere in general, but I have yet to realize the benefits of a strained ewc+molasses tea foliar, particularly in autoimmune defenses. Looking forward to it!
be easy,


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## st0wandgrow (Mar 21, 2014)

For sure Doc. I completely agree with you. I keep my kitchen scraps destined for the worm bin in a ziplock Baggie in the freezer. I like it because it keeps the stank in control, and eliminates any gnats/fruit flies (and the eggs they will lay) from hitching a ride in to my worm bins. Lots of coffee grounds, roasted egg shells, rock dusts, and dry amendments get added with the veggie/fruit slurry and man are the plants responding well to it. Never grown a healthier plant in my life. Worms rock!


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## Dr.J20 (Mar 21, 2014)

st0wandgrow said:


> For sure Doc. I completely agree with you. I keep my kitchen scraps destined for the worm bin in a ziplock Baggie in the freezer. I like it because it keeps the stank in control, and eliminates any gnats/fruit flies (and the eggs they will lay) from hitching a ride in to my worm bins. Lots of coffee grounds, roasted egg shells, rock dusts, and dry amendments get added with the veggie/fruit slurry and man are the plants responding well to it. Never grown a healthier plant in my life. Worms rock!



I do the same thing with the freezer bags of scrap! I find they've nicely begun to break down once they thaw out. I do tend to strain off any water since i'm paranoid about moisture in the bin, though I did just read that worms can survive for a couple days at 90+% moisture, which means i ought to be less paranoid about it. worms, most certainly, are garden rockstars!
be easy buddy,


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## Scroga (Mar 21, 2014)

Gday guys,i am wondering how long the shelf life will be with my microbe tea when refrigerated?


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## Dr.J20 (Mar 21, 2014)

Scroga said:


> Gday guys,i am wondering how long the shelf life will be with my microbe tea when refrigerated?


i'd say dissolved oxygen is probably more of a limiting factor than temperature. Indeed, i'd rate UV light a greater limiting factor as well. I know that microbial activity will slow down significantly in those low temperatures, but that doesn't prevent them from dying in the low oxygen environment. Per Lewis and Lowenfels, the best recommendation on AACT is 6 hours, but a day or two in the fridge supposedly also keeps your tea "usable." Personally, I just make a single 4 gallon batch and use it up on all the plants going around the house, the garden, and directly on the lawn (though i'm trying to find a concrete sprayer to make the lawn a less daunting task) depending on who needs what. Do you have any other plants that might appreciate a little microbe boost?


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## Scroga (Mar 22, 2014)

For sure...but the reason I ask is I'm going to sea for a fortnight.. My garden will be looked after by my partner...she knows nothing about plants..so I was hoping to whip up a fresh batch before I leave and store in fridge in case theres any problems while I'm gone..


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## Scroga (Mar 22, 2014)

For sure...but the reason I ask is I'm going to sea for a fortnight.. My garden will be looked after by my partner...she knows nothing about plants..so I was hoping to whip up a fresh batch before I leave and store in fridge in case theres any problems while I'm gone..


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## Dr.J20 (Mar 22, 2014)

Scroga said:


> For sure...but the reason I ask is I'm going to sea for a fortnight.. My garden will be looked after by my partner...she knows nothing about plants..so I was hoping to whip up a fresh batch before I leave and store in fridge in case theres any problems while I'm gone..


word, i see. you might just throw an inch or two of ewc down as a topdress and tell her to water with molasses + h20. how often would you normally expect to water in two weeks?


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## Scroga (Mar 22, 2014)

The new girls are in DWC they were flipped maybe a week ago? So shouldn't be long till their getting thirsty...
I guess my best option would be too leave the bucket brewing and get her too use half and to it back up with h20 maybe?


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## samisomo (Mar 27, 2014)

Can i add crushed meat and chicken bones to ferment them with compost tea and humus?
i mean can it add phosphorous and nutrients to the tea or even make it better?


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## Dr.J20 (Apr 10, 2014)

time for tea--
4 gal dechlorinated tap water
2C ewc
12mL fish hydrolysate
5 tbsp black strap molasses
1 tbsp hydrated kelp meal paste
brew 42 hours, apply.


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## DANKSWAG (Apr 14, 2014)

Hey guys, 

Any suggestions on storing and keep nettle leaves for future use....

I have a ton of them everywhere I look and I want to harvest as much as I can and keep them.

Best ways to preserve store nettle leaf? 
Can it be effective as a bio stimulate in tea for plants once preserve or store.

I may enough where I can market excess for resell to local organic restaurants but they are bought in season while fresh to cook with.

Ideas, thoughts suggestions? 

 

DankSwag


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## DANKSWAG (Apr 16, 2014)

Anyone?


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## hexthat (Apr 16, 2014)

people eat that weed? i just use it to camouflage plants


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## DANKSWAG (Apr 18, 2014)

You would be surprised what it has been used for and your not the first to use it as camouflage...

From:http://www.traditionalherbalist.com/Articles/nettle.html
Before the general introduction of flax into northern countries, the Germanic tribes used nettles to weave a coarse cloth - a practice which survived in Scotland up to the seventeenth century. It was revived in Germany during the First World War, when cotton was in short supply: thousands of kilograms of nettles were collected to make uniforms for the soldiers. Even as late as the Second World War in England, nettles were used to make dye for camouflage nets.

The more I read up on Nettle the more in love I am with this plant...
DankSwag


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## DANKSWAG (Apr 20, 2014)

Question about nettles, I've read where people let leaves and stems soak in non areated water left outside to break down outside where it becomes anaerobic and really smelly and you have to dilute it to use it.

So my thinking why not avoid the risk of bringing in harmful bacteria to the soil which could disrupt fungi balance and possible lower levels of aerobic bacteria by breaking down the leaves and stems in aerated water bucket. 

After two days I have some slight foam on top very little and a wonderful smelling lightly greenish yellow water that appears to have the bio activators or the appearance of due to how the water color has changed I can't help but think the biology in the plant matter is now in the water and I don't have to wait two weeks and it does not smell. I can just keep adding water and leaves when water color lightens to continue to bring these dynamic bio activators to my soil when watering correct? 

Anywise I should probably do a side by one with out the aerated nettle water, one with the anaerobic diluted form and one plain h20.

Unless someone has experience using their nettles this way I'd like to know.

DankSwag


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## Scroga (May 2, 2014)

Any advice, tips and tricks for brewing through winter?


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## Bueno Time (May 4, 2014)

Scroga said:


> Any advice, tips and tricks for brewing through winter?


Making sure your water isnt too cold while brewing the batches is about all I would think.


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## NickNasty (May 4, 2014)

DANKSWAG said:


> Anyone?


Chop it up and Dry it out.


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## Scroga (May 5, 2014)

Can I add chook manure straight to the brewer or should it be composted first?


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## st0wandgrow (May 5, 2014)

Scroga said:


> Can I add chook manure straight to the brewer or should it be composted first?



What kind of tea are you looking to make? What's the purpose of the tea?


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## Scroga (May 5, 2014)

Primarily microbial,I read somewhere that aquashield is some form of poultry manure/compost tea.. so I thought maybe this could be beneficial to my brew as well as a nitrogen boost..


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## st0wandgrow (May 6, 2014)

Scroga said:


> Primarily microbial,I read somewhere that aquashield is some form of poultry manure/compost tea.. so I thought maybe this could be beneficial to my brew as well as a nitrogen boost..



Then I would compost the manure first. I would imagine that there is *some* population of bacteria present in fresh manure, but the composting process will multiply them exponentially and ensure that the benes out-compete the anaerobic variety when done properly. Pathogens need to be considered too when working with fresh manure. Probably a good idea to compost any manure due to that alone.


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## Scroga (May 6, 2014)

Thanks mate..


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## DANKSWAG (May 8, 2014)

NickNasty said:


> Chop it up and Dry it out.


Hi NickNasty,

thanks, that is what I am doing. I am also told you can steam blanch for five minutes then freeze.

DankSwag


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## Rhizosphere (May 8, 2014)

per 3 gallons of water

1 gallon pot with a 75/25 mix of vermucastings and old growth forest humus
2 tablespoon earth juice hi brix molasses
3 teaspoon black diamond humic acid 
3 teaspoons of bio weed cold processed sea kelp 
3 teaspoons of bio marine cold processed squid
1/2 cup ground organic outs 

brewing in a 5 gal. bucket with a good sized air pump with two 6 in. air stones making good sized bubbles dilute 1 gallon of tea to 1 gallon of water 

i brew for 24 to 36 hours depending on when i feel like watering.

where i live its 95 or hotter during the outdoor grow season so i find just berwing in a nice shady spot i have in my back yard works water seems to hold at 75 ta 82 digress and in the fall my shed works just fine for those cold nights 

i got two purple urkel/Hindu kush seeds that came from a buddy that lives in northern Cali started them march 5 and just happend two get two females there in two gal smart pots with a 50/50 mix of pro mix with big grow stones they get feed the tea every other week and i feed with the general organics full line only half the dose GH recommends on the off weeks doing great but ready to go in bigger pots 

i will be using the 50/50 mix in 75 gal smart pots with straw mulch on top and feed the same just more tea per feeding and was just looking to see if i missed anything i could be doing or if anyone had some suggestions would love to hear from some long time outdoor growers??


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## Scroga (May 9, 2014)

Is mushroom compost beneficial in a microbial brew?


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## Rhizosphere (May 11, 2014)

from what i understand it is.. i wouldnt see why not it did have lots fungi active going in it, would be good to help bring up fungal to bacteria ratio maybe, just a guess really.. only why to know is a micro scoop but i do know compost used to grow commercial mushrooms has to sit for 2 years before it can be sold depending on how the mushroom growers store the soil for the two years would determent if there was anything living in it.. 

i do know in flower your gonna want to run something with a good fungal to bacteria ratio 5/5 fungi help with the transfer of potassium and phosphates and most bacteria are nitrogen fixating

the tea i run should make a 5/3 bacteria to fungi ratio


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## FresnoFarmer (May 23, 2014)

I use this brew. I stole it from some dude named SpaceshipFarmer. I have seen nothing but good results from it. Strong stuff.

King of the HILL Organic Guano Tea Recipe




*Week 1-3 Clone/ Seedling brew*
*Week 4-6 Veg 1 Brew*
*Week 7-9 Veg 2 Brew*
*Week 10-14 Bloom 1 Brew*
*Week 15-18 Bloom 2 Brew*
*Water with Brew once a week. Give fresh non-chlorinated water as needed in between brew.*


*Clone/Seedling Brew (less than 4 weeks old):*
1/2 Cup of Earth Worm Castings or Alaskan Humus or fresh compost
2 1/2 TBS Unsulfured Black Strap Molasses
1 tsp Liquid Kelp Extract
Mix in 2 1/2 gallons of (treated or non-chlorinated or fish tank) water with air stone for 18-24 hours.
Make sure to strain well through cheesecloth if using airoponic rootmisting.

Once a week until roots are over 1inch. Then same mix plus 2 TBS Mycorrhizae Fungus product (Oregonism XL).


*Veg 1 Brew*
1 cup Earth Worm Castings or Alaskan Humus or fresh compost
1/3 cup Mexican Bat Guano (Nitrogen rich guano)
1/2 cup Alfalfa meal
5 TBS Unsulfured Black Strap Molasses
5 TBS Liquid Kelp Extract
Mix in 5 gallons of (amquell treated or non-chlorinated or fish tank) water with air stone for 18-24 hours.

For soil drench application cut finished brew with fresh water(amquell treated or non-chlorinated or fish tank) 50/50. 

For foliar feed application spray finished brew every 2-3 days in the first 6 hours of light. (MY PERSONAL FAVORITE)


*Veg 2 Brew*
1 cup Earth Worm Castings or Alaskan Humus or fresh compost
1/3 cup Mexican Bat Guano (Nitrogen rich guano)
1/3 cup Peruvian Seabird Guano (all around rich guano **BE CAREFUL**)
1/2 cup Alfalfa meal
5 TBS Unsulfured Black Strap Molasses
5 TBS Liquid Kelp Extract
3-5 TBS Concentrated Fish emulsions
Mix in 5 gallons of (amquell treated or non-chlorinated or fish tank) water with air stone for 18-24 hours.

For soil drench application cut finished brew with fresh water(amquell treated or non-chlorinated or fish tank) 50/50. 

For foliar feed application spray finished brew every 2-3 days in the first 6 hours of light. (MY PERSONAL FAVORITE)


*Bloom 1 Brew*
1 cup Earth Worm Castings or Alaskan Humus or fresh compost
1/3 cup Jamaican Bat Guano (Phosphorus rich guano)
1/3 cup Peruvian Seabird Guano (all around rich guano **BE CAREFUL**)
1/2 cup Alfalfa meal
5 TBS Unsulfured Black Strap Molasses
5 TBS Liquid Kelp Extract
Mix in 5 gallons of (amquell treated or non-chlorinated or fish tank) water with air stone for 18-24 hours.

For soil drench application cut finished brew with fresh water(amquell treated or non-chlorinated or fish tank) 50/50. 

For foliar feed application spray finished brew every 3-4 days in the first 6 hours of light. (MY PERSONAL FAVORITE)


*Bloom 2 Brew*
1 cup Earth Worm Castings or Alaskan Humus or fresh compost
2/3 cup Indonesian Bat Guano (Phosphorus rich guano)
2/3 cup Peruvian Seabird Guano (all around rich guano **BE CAREFUL**)
1/2 cup Alfalfa meal
5 TBS Unsulfured Black Strap Molasses
5 TBS Liquid Kelp Extract
Mix in 5 gallons of (amquell treated or non-chlorinated or fish tank) water with air stone for 18-24 hours.

For soil drench application cut finished brew with fresh water(amquell treated or non-chlorinated or fish tank) 50/50. 
DO NOT FOLIAR FEED AFTER WEEK 4 OF BLOOM

*You can add a biological stimulator to any brew to give a jump start to the process. I LOVE OREGONISM XL by Root Organics. Follow directions on container.*


*FLUSHING DIRECTIONS:* hahahahahahahahahahahah
Continue until the day you Harvest. Don't Panic, Its Organic!

*Curing Directions:*
Cut all leaves from buds, leaving only the flower.
Leave the buds on the branch.
Hang branches for 3-4 days on a line in a dark room at 70-75 degrees with average humidity (50-60rh)
Clip buds from branch and into cardboard box. Make sure they are one layer thin on the bottom of box not stacked. Leave them in the box, with the top on, for 3-4 days, giving them a good shake once a day.
Put buds in an air tight glass jar (Ikea) for 3-4 days. *** Very important to shake up and BURP(open top to release gasses) ONCE A DAY*****
After that it should be ready. If anyone tells you it will take less than 10 days to properly cure nugs, forget anything else they have ever told you.
The nugs should barely smell until you twist-break them open, then it should be DANK!

*Other directions:*

*Brew in 5 gallon home depot bucket outside, for smell and overflow reasons. Use as many airstones as possible to bubble your brew. You can't add too much dissolved Oxygen. 18-24 hours later the Sweet molasses smell will turn to a rich earthy smell. IT IS DONE! Let sit for 20 minutes after you remove the airstones to allow sediment to settle to bottom. Pour 2.5 gallons into new bucket to 50/50 with fresh water for soil drench. Use tea with-in 6 hours of airstone removal at max. Right away is best. Rinse out bucket sludge into outside garden as soon as possible. If it dries i'll bet you a dollar you'll buy a new bucket.*


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## NyQuilkush318 (Jun 5, 2014)

Can you use blueberries as a flush with water


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## zest (Jul 1, 2014)

hey guys I was wondering if anyone had any experience using goat manure. I have a neighbor who has some goats and offered me some for my vegetable garden but would like to use it in a compost tea for my real garden  ...problem is I have never used any other manure besides earth worm castings. any help is appreciated.


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## st0wandgrow (Jul 1, 2014)

zest said:


> hey guys I was wondering if anyone had any experience using goat manure. I have a neighbor who has some goats and offered me some for my vegetable garden but would like to use it in a compost tea for my real garden  ...problem is I have never used any other manure besides earth worm castings. any help is appreciated.



Personally I would compost it. Increase the microbial population, then use it in a brew to multiply and extract that population. That or add directly to the soil, but either way I'd run it through a compost first


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## BrownGuy420 (Jul 8, 2014)

Hey guys this is a great thread and just had a question, has anyone ever used Down to Earth's BioLive in their teas? Looks like an excellents thing to add to some EWC's and some molasses for veg...what would you experienced tea makers say about that? The attachment has the ingredients in it....Thx guys


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## SpaaaceCowboy (Jul 10, 2014)

I was hoping to feed some organic teas to my outdoor plants....Do the roots have to be moist first before I feed them the teas ?

I know using regular nutes I have to make sure the roots are....Wasn't sure about the roots though when using the teas....

thanks, SC


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## FresnoFarmer (Jul 10, 2014)

SpaaaceCowboy said:


> I was hoping to feed some organic teas to my outdoor plants....Do the roots have to be moist first before I feed them the teas ?
> 
> I know using regular nutes I have to make sure the roots are....Wasn't sure about the roots though when using the teas....
> 
> thanks, SC


I would make sure the root and soil are moist first.


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## SpaaaceCowboy (Jul 10, 2014)

FresnoFarmer said:


> I would make sure the root and soil are moist first.


ok thanks...I wanted to make sure that I didn't burn or kill any of the roots.


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## FresnoFarmer (Jul 10, 2014)

SpaaaceCowboy said:


> ok thanks...I wanted to make sure that I didn't burn or kill any of the roots.


You feeding the plants or soil? Nutrient tea or compost/ewc tea is whaat I mean.


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## SpaaaceCowboy (Jul 10, 2014)

FresnoFarmer said:


> You feeding the plants or soil? Nutrient tea or compost/ewc tea is whaat I mean.


I guess the soil ? using pro-mix with lime and ewc along with bush doctors coco mixed in or FFOF, or Roots Organic mixed in..I'll probably have some Epsoma mixed in there as well.....Guess the soil ?


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## FresnoFarmer (Jul 10, 2014)

Ewc teas wont burn plants. Guano teas will, slightly if not diluted enough.


----------



## JoeN (Jul 10, 2014)

Dank Raptor said:


> Just mixed up a Fungal dominant brew.
> 
> I use the method of cultivating fungi in a 50/50 mix of soil and compost. Add 2 tblspoons/cup of oat bran. Innoculate the mix with spores and put in 80 degree temp for 3-5 days to grow mycellium. Stuff the fungi compost in some pantyhose and brew for 18-24 hours. Try to avoid longer times because this can make your brew go bacterial. (not necessarily bad)
> 
> ...


What spores do you use to inoculate and how much Soft rock Phosphate do you use Thanks


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## CarpeNocturnum (Jul 27, 2014)

Rising moon, where are you getting your herbal astrological correspondences? I'd really be able to utilize them magickally! Thanks!


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## anzohaze (Aug 16, 2014)

Whats up all i been organic for a year or so no and I do my normal ewc and mollasses tes and every other I add about a 1/3 cup of neptunes harvest fish fertilizer to 4 gallons. I have not really ever made a fungi only type tea. Whats the best way to get huge fungi growth or adequate fungi growth to put in soil thanks all


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## Julius Caesar (Aug 20, 2014)

anzohaze said:


> Whats up all i been organic for a year or so no and I do my normal ewc and mollasses tes and every other I add about a 1/3 cup of neptunes harvest fish fertilizer to 4 gallons. I have not really ever made a fungi only type tea. Whats the best way to get huge fungi growth or adequate fungi growth to put in soil thanks all


I'm just now getting my own feet wet with organics, but from what I have reading so far cannabis prefers a slightly more bacterial balance, just like vegetables and grasses which marijuana seems to be comparable. I believe adding a small amount of alfalfa will help boost fungi to a point without being overwhelming.

My AACT is pretty simple - water, EWC, kelp, molasses

I try to put all of the goodies in the soil beforehand and let the microbes do the work for me.


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## Julius Caesar (Aug 20, 2014)

The thick, slimy rings that form in the bucket daily - should I be mixing that back into the tea or scooping it out and dispose?


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## anzohaze (Aug 20, 2014)

I apply the ewc and ring material stuff to my outside compost or flower bed garden


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## cannakis (Aug 21, 2014)

Corbat420 said:


> If making a purly Bacterial then yes. But nutrient teas need nutrients to be added as well.
> 
> Never use Fungal spores (Such as Myco's) with Humic or Fulvic acid. it will kill the fungus.. use the acid one watering, then the fungus the next. feed the fungus directly into the soil... other than that your good to go


wait so what about the teas with humic and fungi? and what about soil? should i only add the mycho and water with humic? or can i add humic and then add fungi after?


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## Pattahabi (Aug 21, 2014)

cannakis said:


> wait so what about the teas with humic and fungi? and what about soil? should i only add the mycho and water with humic? or can i add humic and then add fungi after?


Add mycos at transplant - not in a tea of any kind. Dust the roots if possible. Anything else is like throwing spaghetti at the wall. Remember there are humic acids in vermicompost. Imo Leonardite is a waste of time and money. If you want humics, look up BioAg.

P-


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## cannakis (Aug 22, 2014)

Pattahabi said:


> Add mycos at transplant - not in a tea of any kind. Dust the roots if possible. Anything else is like throwing spaghetti at the wall. Remember there are humic acids in vermicompost. Imo Leonardite is a waste of time and money. If you want humics, look up BioAg.
> 
> P-


thanks. what about on this site the exerpt from that mycho book, they say make your Own mycho and add it tea. and bmos super plant tonic has mycho in it.


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## Pattahabi (Aug 23, 2014)

cannakis said:


> thanks. what about on this site the exerpt from that mycho book, they say make your Own mycho and add it tea. and bmos super plant tonic has mycho in it.


Mycos become food stock in a tea. They need contact with roots to survive. What is that myco book? Go to scholar.google.com and type in mycorrhiza.

P-


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## cannakis (Aug 23, 2014)

Pattahabi said:


> Mycos become food stock in a tea. They need contact with roots to survive. What is that myco book? Go to scholar.google.com and type in mycorrhiza.
> 
> P-


haha looks like someone needs to read the thread they suggested...! haha just kidding,but it is tje Fourth quote box on This thred entitled Fungal Compost Tea. at the bottom tip three is given by Jeff or whoever wrote the Book "Teaming With Microbes." and says to make the Fungal Compost you make your own mychos and add it to a tea with Humic acid.


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## cannakis (Aug 23, 2014)

Dank Raptor said:


> Just mixed up a Fungal dominant brew.
> 
> I use the method of cultivating fungi in a 50/50 mix of soil and compost. Add 2 tblspoons/cup of oat bran. Innoculate the mix with spores and put in 80 degree temp for 3-5 days to grow mycellium. Stuff the fungi compost in some pantyhose and brew for 18-24 hours. Try to avoid longer times because this can make your brew go bacterial. (not necessarily bad)
> 
> ...


do you use a fungal tea for veg and then aforesaid receipt for flowering? or do you add your mychorrizihal


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## Pattahabi (Aug 24, 2014)

cannakis said:


> haha looks like someone needs to read the thread they suggested...! haha just kidding,but it is tje Fourth quote box on This thred entitled Fungal Compost Tea. at the bottom tip three is given by Jeff or whoever wrote the Book "Teaming With Microbes." and says to make the Fungal Compost you make your own mychos and add it to a tea with Humic acid.


Sometimes Jeff is wrong.


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## cannakis (Aug 24, 2014)

Pattahabi said:


> Sometimes Jeff is wrong.


maybe. but what about the equal ratio 1:1 of fungi:bacteria? that is what it is supposed to be for optimal chelating and absorbtion rates.and so do you not use humic or fulvic acid? i think i know what you are saying is about the tons of extra of one substance will destroy/consume the other? i mean humic acid is a natural substance of decomposition, and i am sure they both thrive in forest floors, so how are we supposed to maintain the balance? and if the mychos areaPart of the dirt i add to the tea, how i made them, so then they will be rooted and wont befloating powdered food stock. right? thats why he says the whole mycho dirt. at least this is my opinion from what i have read.


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## Pattahabi (Aug 24, 2014)

cannakis said:


> maybe. but what about the equal ratio 1:1 of fungi:bacteria? that is what it is supposed to be for optimal chelating and absorbtion rates.and so do you not use humic or fulvic acid? i think i know what you are saying is about the tons of extra of one substance will destroy/consume the other? i mean humic acid is a natural substance of decomposition, and i am sure they both thrive in forest floors, so how are we supposed to maintain the balance? and if the mychos areaPart of the dirt i add to the tea, how i made them, so then they will be rooted and wont befloating powdered food stock. right? thats why he says the whole mycho dirt. at least this is my opinion from what i have read.


I foliar with fulvic acid, I do not add it to my teas. Your vermicompost will have humic acids. Imo leonardite does not count as humic acid. Mycorrhizae need roots to survive. There are many articles to support this.The plant will dictate whether bacteria or fungi survive in the rizosphere. Per Tim Wilson:

_By testing some ingredients independently in a liquid I observed;

*1/ that humic acid in varying dilutions does not feed any sort of microscopically visible microbe. I observed that it actually suppresses microbial division and growth. This was confirmed by joint testing with Keep It Simple Inc. (KIS) in the Seattle area. We tested two of the most effective and popular brands. I cannot say definitively that all brands of humic acid will have similar suppressive effects in a liquid (ACT) but it is enough for me to discontinue using it or recommending it as an ACT foodstock. Please note that this does not mean that it is not good to use on/in soil….just not ACT.*

2/ that kelp meal initially delays all microbial development in a liquid but does feed fungi and bacteria/archaea following 24 hours. If too much is used the effects are suppressive. From this I garnered that it should be used very sparingly and one must be prepared to brew a little longer if using this foodstock. Again, this does not mean that kelp meal is not a good thing to use in/on soil. It definitely is!

3/ *black strap molasses (BSM) feeds both bacteria/archaea and fungi equally well contrary to what the A(A)CT aficionados were saying.* The story was that BSM feeds only bacteria. This led to all sorts of misconceptions, even including ones made by USDA and Canada Agriculture scientists who declared that using molasses in ACT could lead to e-coli contamination. It is utter nonsense. Besides the testing I have done and ratifying assays carried out by KIS, it is common knowledge amongst many mycologists like Paul Stamets that BSM grows out fungal hyphae just fine.

4/ *fish hydrolysate feeds both fungi and bacteria/archaea again* contrary to the story at the time that it is mainly a fungal food. (I’m glad to see that story has now changed)

5/ alfalfa meal is also a decent all round foodstock which sometimes introduces protozoa cysts to the ACT. KIS has done more testing on this than I have._


P-


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## Dank Raptor (Aug 27, 2014)

cannakis said:


> do you use a fungal tea for veg and then aforesaid receipt for flowering? or do you add your mychorrizihal


For veg I use water only and when I brew its usually some EWC, microbes (biozeus or Oregonism) and molasses. I usually use the same recipe for flowering every couple weeks. Mycorrhizae is sprinkled in at xplant and also watered in from time to time. I don't do all the work of cultivating fungi anymore but it is still a great method and it will treat you well if you try the recipe. The idea of cultivating fungi before brewing was taken from the book Teaming with Microbes. Let me know if you have any other questions. For the soft rock phosphate you can use humboldt nutrients natural bloom which is 0-10-0 and is a mix of soft rock phosphate and kelp composted in a bottle. Its a nice shortcut.


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## cannakis (Aug 27, 2014)

Dank Raptor said:


> For veg I use water only and when I brew its usually some EWC, microbes (biozeus or Oregonism) and molasses. I usually use the same recipe for flowering every couple weeks. Mycorrhizae is sprinkled in at xplant and also watered in from time to time. I don't do all the work of cultivating fungi anymore but it is still a great method and it will treat you well if you try the recipe. The idea of cultivating fungi before brewing was taken from the book Teaming with Microbes. Let me know if you have any other questions. For the soft rock phosphate you can use humboldt nutrients natural bloom which is 0-10-0 and is a mix of soft rock phosphate and kelp composted in a bottle. Its a nice shortcut.


Thanks so, excited to try out the tea. 

Can you ever have/add too much fungi?


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## Dank Raptor (Aug 29, 2014)

cannakis said:


> Thanks so, excited to try out the tea.
> 
> Can you ever have/add too much fungi?


No you can't overdue it. Your plants will only associate with the fungi that it wants to.


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## cannakis (Aug 29, 2014)

Dank Raptor said:


> No you can't overdue it. Your plants will only associate with the fungi that it wants to.


cool thanks so much brother!


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## SpaaaceCowboy (Sep 17, 2014)

If I put kelp in a tea mix does it have to brew longer than 24 hours ? I read that the kelp delays microbial development for 24 hours ?


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## Pattahabi (Sep 18, 2014)

SpaaaceCowboy said:


> If I put kelp in a tea mix does it have to brew longer than 24 hours ? I read that the kelp delays microbial development for 24 hours ?


Kelp does delay microbial development. If I use kelp in an act I brew closer to 42-48 hours. I generally brew around 36-42 hours without kelp.

P-


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## Growop101 (Sep 28, 2014)

Hey sorry if this was mentioned before. i didnt have a whole lot of time to go through these pages. 

I was wondering if its ok to use a standard compost and mollasas tea in the last week or 2 of flower? 

I dont see why it would be a bad thing /?


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## Pattahabi (Sep 28, 2014)

Growop101 said:


> Hey sorry if this was mentioned before. i didnt have a whole lot of time to go through these pages.
> 
> I was wondering if its ok to use a standard compost and mollasas tea in the last week or 2 of flower?
> 
> I dont see why it would be a bad thing /?


EWC would be preferred, but use what you have. A microbial extrapolation (which is what you are getting with the ewc/compost & molasses brew) is fine to add at any point in flowering. I would stay away from the nutrient teas, especially alfalfa.

P-


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## Dr. Treez84 (Sep 28, 2014)

If I'm using an aact tea and it calls for 1 cup casting per 5 gallon. Would I really need to use 50 cups of castings? Or does the proportion vary as I'm using more water?

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## Pattahabi (Sep 28, 2014)

Dr. Treez84 said:


> If I'm using an aact tea and it calls for 1 cup casting per 5 gallon. Would I really need to use 50 cups of castings? Or does the proportion vary as I'm using more water?
> 
> Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Rollitup mobile app


Dr.T, if you have a microscope and you know how to check plate counts, you can do what ever you want. Otherwise, I would say go by the recipe. Microbes multiply at different rates depending on conditions. Obviously they grow exponentially, so if you start out with more you are going to reach the desired state faster. You could use a little less, brew a little longer, but hard to tell without using a scope.

Can I ask what size brewer are you using? And are you using an airlift?


Peace!
P-


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## Dr. Treez84 (Sep 28, 2014)

Pattahabi said:


> Dr.T, if you have a microscope and you know how to check plate counts, you can do what ever you want. Otherwise, I would say go by the recipe. Microbes multiply at different rates depending on conditions. Obviously they grow exponentially, so if you start out with more you are going to reach the desired state faster. You could use a little less, brew a little longer, but hard to tell without using a scope.
> 
> Can I ask what size brewer are you using? And are you using an airlift?
> 
> ...


I just have my 330 gal res that I fill up to 250(how much I water each time) and 3 200lpm pumps with 6 air stones each.

Put my molasses, great white and compost in and brew for about 12hrs then throw the rest in and let it airate until it's ready.

No microscope yet, that's the next thing I need to buy and learn what to look for. still fairly new at making teas, this is my first year doing them.

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## Pattahabi (Sep 28, 2014)

Dr. Treez84 said:


> I just have my 330 gal res that I fill up to 250(how much I water each time) and 3 200lpm pumps with 6 air stones each.
> 
> Put my molasses, great white and compost in and brew for about 12hrs then throw the rest in and let it airate until it's ready.
> 
> ...


Ok, definitely head over to Microbeorganics.org and read up on Tim's site. I don't think a microscope is necessary unless you are going to really get into teas. I do have Tim's scope and DVD's btw.

An airlift style brewer would really change things. However, you can probably make what you have work. The thing I worry about with the way you are doing it is the EWC sits on the bottom of the tubs and stays fairly anaerobic. Problem with using a bag is the air doesn't get through it very well. With an airlift it gets cycled through a system.

Depends how much effort you want to put into it. If it were me, and I was being frugle, I might cut the recipe in half, and try and stir up the stuff on the bottom once in a while. You should brew for 36-42 hours.

Also real quick, you want high quality EWC, not thermal compost if all possible.


Peace!
P-


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## Growop101 (Sep 30, 2014)

Pattahabi said:


> EWC would be preferred, but use what you have. A microbial extrapolation (which is what you are getting with the ewc/compost & molasses brew) is fine to add at any point in flowering. I would stay away from the nutrient teas, especially alfalfa.
> 
> P-


Thanks dood. There are earth worm castings in with my compost as i added a shit ton this spring. 

And i would think a casting tea would be higher in nitrogen which is not what i want toward the last week or 2 of flower.


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## Pattahabi (Sep 30, 2014)

Growop101 said:


> Thanks dood. There are earth worm castings in with my compost as i added a shit ton this spring.
> 
> And i would think a casting tea would be higher in nitrogen which is not what i want toward the last week or 2 of flower.


For sure Grow!

If all possible, you want fresh vermicompost/castings. There is no such thing as pure castings, but what you are looking for is something with the highest, most diverse microbial population possible. The goal here is to multiply micro organisms. Trust me, do not worry about any N your plants receive from the EWC. This is total hydrostore nonsense. The Soil Food Web is what you want to be concerned with. Soil balancing is the tail wagging the dog. 

Peace!
P-


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## greasemonkeymann (Oct 1, 2014)

Dr. Treez84 said:


> I just have my 330 gal res that I fill up to 250(how much I water each time) and 3 200lpm pumps with 6 air stones each.
> 
> Put my molasses, great white and compost in and brew for about 12hrs then throw the rest in and let it airate until it's ready.
> 
> ...


 don't add the great white, you are just feeding it to your tea, it'll never get to your roots. Save it for transplanting.


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## greasemonkeymann (Oct 1, 2014)

Growop101 said:


> Thanks dood. There are earth worm castings in with my compost as i added a shit ton this spring. blood meL
> 
> And i would think a casting tea would be higher in nitrogen which is not what i want toward the last week or 2 of flower.


 you'd be surprised, that's kind of a myth, the plant needs nitrogen throughout all phases of growing, with worm casting you don't have anything to worry about. Now that doesn't mean you should blast her with some 15-1-1- blood meal or anything, but they need nitrogen, all the way to the end.


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## MammothGrow (Nov 8, 2014)

Rising Moon said:


> I have posted this before but, it needs to be mentioned in this thread, otherwise Ill feel like I didn't contribute to my favorite subject...
> 
> Great list, just a few things I would add...
> 
> ...


wow, thank you so much for posting this! Bout to add some of these to my teas for sure!


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## Scroga (Nov 8, 2014)

Would adding bathwater from my kids baths to my tea bucket hurt my brew much? Hate seeing all that water go to waste. . 

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## Pattahabi (Nov 8, 2014)

I wouldn't do it.


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## Scroga (Nov 8, 2014)

When I was younger.. lol. . My mates parents used to have the drain pipe from their washing machine discharge directly onto their back lawn. .. I don't remember seeing any dead patches? 

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## Pattahabi (Nov 8, 2014)

Scroga said:


> When I was younger.. lol. . My mates parents used to have the drain pipe from their washing machine discharge directly onto their back lawn. .. I don't remember seeing any dead patches?
> 
> Sent from my GT-S7580L using Rollitup mobile app


Well then, you should certainly do it! I sure wouldn't, but to each their own.

P-


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## Scroga (Nov 8, 2014)

I just figure that the bath has a lot less soap and possible nitrogen and trace from any urine. . It's a large bath. .

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## Pattahabi (Nov 8, 2014)

Scroga said:


> I just figure that the bath has a lot less soap and possible nitrogen and trace from any urine. . It's a large bath. .
> 
> Sent from my GT-S7580L using Rollitup mobile app


Can I ask you, what does soap do to microbes? Even in small amounts? Will this help the microbial multiplication, or hinder it?

P-


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## Scroga (Nov 8, 2014)

I also figure that if soap killed microbes then everyone would be using that as a treatment for slime in Dwc. 

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## Scroga (Nov 8, 2014)

I'm talking a little shampoo diluted in 100 liters? 

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## smokey the cat (Nov 9, 2014)

Pattahabi said:


> Can I ask you, what does soap do to microbes? Even in small amounts? Will this help the microbial multiplication, or hinder it?
> 
> P-


Here's the only advice I've found - from the Daily Mail (lol)




> *Q *I use my washing-up and bath water to water my patio plants. My husband says that so much soapy water is not good for them. Is that right?
> Mrs Pam Pritchard, West Mersea, Essex
> 
> *A *In principle you are doing the right thing, although your husband is also partly correct. In fact, the potential harm is less to the plants than to the soil, with its complex bacterial and fungal make-up. Recycled soapy water (‘grey’ water) is perfectly usable for plants, but I would not use it exclusively. Rotate it with ‘clean’ water on an alternate basis and, as with all watering, direct it at the roots rather than the foliage.
> ...



Scroga,

Soaps are the salt of a fatty acid - there is going to be some interaction with the life in the soil. In a chemical grow it'll matter less. In an organic grow it's clearly not going to poison anything off the bat - keeping in mind dilution and frequency of application.


It's not just about the soil - there's a symbiotic relationshiip b/t the plant and critters in the dirt, with the plant's roots actively controlling the fungal life around it. For that reason I sure as hell wouldn't use it in a grow, but maybe a lawn. *It'd be a fun trial to run to see how a grey-watered plant fared - I'm guessing a little slower and little smaller from lower food availability.*
Worst case would be something like what I've seen using sodium benzoate on a couple of rooted clones. Did it to see what'd happen (bought wrong bottle of aloe, lol). A complete stall of growth. I've dosed with ACT and SST repeatedly to get things moving, but four weeks later and so far no bueno - plants still 4" high. I fucking love these learning experiences, haha.


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## Scroga (Nov 9, 2014)

Thanks for the info Smokey. . So if it was organic dish soap would that be different or is that a marketing thing. ..
Any ways I do ask some silly sht when bent. . It's sometimes the kids will have 3 baths a day. . And im constantly topping my tea bucket up.. Just kills me to see all the water go to waste..

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## smokey the cat (Nov 9, 2014)

Scroga said:


> Thanks for the info Smokey. . So if it was organic dish soap would that be different or is that a marketing thing. ..
> Any ways I do ask some silly sht when bent. . It's sometimes the kids will have 3 baths a day. . And im constantly topping my tea bucket up.. Just kills me to see all the water go to waste..


**Disclaimer - it's been nearly 20 years since I was in a chemistry classroom **

Dish soap is sodium stearate - with a bit of colour and scent mixed in. People use soaps as spray surfactants all the time - but obviously these are fairly minute doses. The main risk as I see it would be introducing a salt source into your soil. 

Given a long enough timeline and enough good water to dilute the bad stuff, there is pretty much nothing that fungus can't remediate. The issue will be that a flowering cycle only has ~60 days.


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## Scroga (Nov 20, 2014)

Would cleaning the gunk from my aquarium filter into my tea bucket be a good idea? 

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## DonTesla (Nov 29, 2014)

Scroga said:


> Would cleaning the gunk from my aquarium filter into my tea bucket be a good idea?
> 
> Sent from my GT-S7580L using Rollitup mobile app


Maybe into a beastly outdoor mini garden or compost, but other than that, hayelllllll no bruv.. treat a tea like a triple bypass for best clean, mean results! lol


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## Scroga (Nov 30, 2014)

Rodger that.. But I don't even know what my castings is really breaking down too? I don't know it the way you guys know yours. ..

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## keysareme (Dec 8, 2014)

Hey, just a quick post on the topic of air stones. I was brewing 5 gallons a time with two air stones until one stone broke where the tubing connects to the stone itself. Since that stone broke, I've run a few brews with just one stone.

Well, I just went out and picked up a new air stone ($1.99, local pet store), and immediately the quality of the brew has increased. One smaller stone was not enough. I had thought it might be my water, or that my water filters had depleted, but it was all just a lack of o2.

So, in brewing teas, more air stones is better than one


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## keysareme (Dec 9, 2014)

keysareme said:


> Hey, just a quick post on the topic of air stones. I was brewing 5 gallons a time with two air stones until one stone broke where the tubing connects to the stone itself. Since that stone broke, I've run a few brews with just one stone.
> 
> Well, I just went out and picked up a new air stone ($1.99, local pet store), and immediately the quality of the brew has increased. One smaller stone was not enough. I had thought it might be my water, or that my water filters had depleted, but it was all just a lack of o2.
> 
> So, in brewing teas, more air stones is better than one


Here is the brew at about 39 hours (going for 48 total)


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## desertdog (Dec 13, 2014)

I started making teas with all of my additives and I saw amazing growth and the buds taste so good. I am now making my own soil and I have just started doing this and it works so well and quick. After reading the recipes here I am going to make some tweaks. This stuff is making one of my plants go nuts it doubled in size in one week directly after transplant. I have it in drip bucket I made and it is like it is hydro. I am more into my growing than ever before. I am not trying mix all kinds of crazy shit and wondering what it may do to me or my friends. I am using all organic pest control and food is about 90% organic. I am confident now though that I can stop all commercial product use and get better results or at least the same. I like purple max and Krystal, and bud candy added with molasses in flower and a phosfor push like overdrive or gravity. Once I run out I guess I run out. Putting the food in the tea made them explode. I will post my drip bucket soon it is cool. A hydro net insert inside a five gallon bucket. In bottom of bucket another 4 net pot with a bucket bottom on top of it. Now it has a wicking hole, inside the wicking hole a sure to grow 4 inch round or rockwool or what you please. Around the net pot I have grow rock in bottom under the bucket bottom I cut out of another bucket. The idea was air instead of DWC. To make what little soil there is stick together I used coco and packed to inside of bucket to snug up to the 6 in net pot insert that snaps on top of five gallon bucket. With teas I can control roots and hopefully get some killer returns.


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## desertdog (Dec 13, 2014)

what is black storm? and organic B


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## Fast50 (Mar 12, 2015)

Im running ewc,kelp,fish sauce, molasses in my tea's. 

Will be adding a handful of soil to it this time. And getting a fungi headstart for the next one.


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## mathew pixley (May 26, 2015)

I asked a few times before and always get referred to this thread but I'm still not finding it. Are there any reputable companies that I can buy premade tea mixes so I don't have to mix them myself


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## charface (May 26, 2015)

extreme tea works well.


mathew pixley said:


> I asked a few times before and always get referred to this thread but I'm still not finding it. Are there any reputable companies that I can buy premade tea mixes so I don't have to mix them myself


http://www.xtreme-gardening.com/products/xtreme-tea-brews


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## RockinDaGanja (May 27, 2015)

mathew pixley said:


> I asked a few times before and always get referred to this thread but I'm still not finding it. Are there any reputable companies that I can buy premade tea mixes so I don't have to mix them myself


Boogie brew. My plants love it


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## coughphee.connoiseur (May 30, 2015)

anyone ever added malted barley sprouted seeds, halfway or towards then end of a AACT brew, just EWC & BSM, maybe ? yeah?


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## Organja (Jun 7, 2015)

Yay to this thread!!! Open source tea sharing is what's up!! Brew people brew!!

I've been aiming to tweak boogie brews recipe with down to earth products, although I think as is may be perfect for the flowering ladies!?

Good stuff everyone!! Keep it up!


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## Organja (Jun 7, 2015)

RockinDaGanja said:


> Boogie brew. My plants love it


Do you use it with other dry amendments in your soil? What is your frequency and dilution??

I am trying to crack the boogie brew code, even though they did an open source video, percentages are extremely vague! I work at DTE so these products are available to me on the CHEAP!


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## Organja (Jun 7, 2015)

Pattahabi said:


> Add mycos at transplant - not in a tea of any kind. Dust the roots if possible. Anything else is like throwing spaghetti at the wall. Remember there are humic acids in vermicompost. Imo Leonardite is a waste of time and money. If you want humics, look up BioAg.
> 
> P-


Why is leonardite a waste of time and money? This is an honest question and not rude or anything. 
It's my understanding it's one of the best sources of humics available.

I'm still learning, your input is appreciated.


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## DonTesla (Jun 7, 2015)

They should sell myco at Oh iunno, Walmart, and Home Depot, f$&king bastards.. The one product they claim is myco is 95% junk. Half these hydro stores are like, noo we don't get the myco anymore it was $90 bottles no one bought them.. No shit you idiot lol you shoulda bought the $5 packs and sold them for $10 like every good American place would..
Man, insane saturation in the hydro store game, everyone is wheeling in pallets of 5 gallons filled with liquid chem soup and no one knows how to get a box of Xtreme mycos for the city and take over organics? Hmm..
All good..life is goooooood.
Opportunity for someone...


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## RockinDaGanja (Jun 7, 2015)

Organja said:


> Do you use it with other dry amendments in your soil? What is your frequency and dilution??
> 
> I am trying to crack the boogie brew code, even though they did an open source video, percentages are extremely vague! I work at DTE so these products are available to me on the CHEAP!


I use as recommended. I do have DTE products in my soil and some different rock dusts. In veg I usually just use EWC dehydrated sugarcane (or mollasses) with a couple different sea kelps for my AACT.


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## Organja (Jun 7, 2015)

Sounds legit!


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## Organja (Jun 7, 2015)

This is a stupid question but will someone tell me what exactly a catalyst is in terms of compost tea? Food? BSA? Both?


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## norcal mmj (Jun 21, 2015)

Hey all, I'm just starting teas with dry amendments. I'm wondering on how long to let them soak in my tea to get the most out of my amendments. I just got all the ingredients for subs supersoil and bought it in 25 pound bags so I can make it for a few years. I thought I should try teas with so much extra amendments around. I'm only looking for bloom teas mostly, my soil is good for veg. Any help or ideas is great.


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## RockinDaGanja (Jun 24, 2015)

Organja said:


> This is a stupid question but will someone tell me what exactly a catalyst is in terms of compost tea? Food? BSA? Both?


A catalyst is something that boost a chemical reaction. I could be wrong but mollases in your tea would act as a catalyst for the microbial life to feed on. Or actually i guess your ACT as a whole works as a catalyst accelerating the life of your soil. @norcalmmj microbial life peaks at arond 36 to 48 hours I believe. As far as a bloom amendment you could add some guano. Like i said before Ive been using boogie brew but my plants are in veg. I will add some high P gauno to my tea when they are in flower probably.


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## DonPetro (Jun 29, 2015)

norcal mmj said:


> Hey all, I'm just starting teas with dry amendments. I'm wondering on how long to let them soak in my tea to get the most out of my amendments. I just got all the ingredients for subs supersoil and bought it in 25 pound bags so I can make it for a few years. I thought I should try teas with so much extra amendments around. I'm only looking for bloom teas mostly, my soil is good for veg. Any help or ideas is great.


To your standard ewc/molasses tea add soluble seaweed and micronized soft rock phosphate at a rate of 1/2 teaspoon per gallon at the start of the brewing process. This makes a great all-natural bloom booster. I'm actually suprised more people haven't discovered this.


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## TheGoldenGreenThumb (Jul 30, 2015)

Dragonfly Earth Medicine from Eugene Oregon. Look them up if you are brewing teas. Takes you to the next level


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## RockinDaGanja (Jul 31, 2015)

TheGoldenGreenThumb said:


> Dragonfly Earth Medicine from Eugene Oregon. Look them up if you are brewing teas. Takes you to the next level


Couldnt agree more. I thought I mentioned them earlier but that must have been a different thread. But there whole thing is accumulating things like nettles and other things In and around there garden to make botanical teas for integrated pest management. They do some pretty interesting stuff over there at dragonfly.


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## OutofLEDCloset (Aug 2, 2015)

Just saw video with Boogie Brew guy Josh. He recommends Vegan Mix from DTE top dressing and Boogie Brew. Thats it! KISS method. I just got my Boogie Brew this week. So far plants are dancing. The Pure Protein foliar stinks and wife hates but plants are praying. My closet grow is small so I just use tea at full strength.


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## natureboygrower (Aug 16, 2015)

What's up guys?great thread.I'm having some nitrogen problems with some plants.(oldest shades turning yellow. Pretty quickly)I brewed some up using microbeman's conservative mix rate.(liquid kelp,blackstrap molasses, fish fertilizer,vermicrops earthworm castings)fed them today at pretty strong rate.next time I water should I mix up some grow? (General hydro thrive organic line.4-3-3)these plants arent due to finish until Oct,so I'm trying to fix this asap.last time I used the tea it was a month ago.how often do you guys use ewc? Thanks for any advice


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## ShLUbY (Aug 20, 2015)

natureboygrower said:


> What's up guys?great thread.I'm having some nitrogen problems with some plants.(oldest shades turning yellow. Pretty quickly)I brewed some up using microbeman's conservative mix rate.(liquid kelp,blackstrap molasses, fish fertilizer,vermicrops earthworm castings)fed them today at pretty strong rate.next time I water should I mix up some grow? (General hydro thrive organic line.4-3-3)these plants arent due to finish until Oct,so I'm trying to fix this asap.last time I used the tea it was a month ago.how often do you guys use ewc? Thanks for any advice


just be sure to give them time to respond. if they have that long to go, you dont have to push them. try using some other things in between feedings like aloe vera, coconut water, and SSTs (which aren't necessary if you're using coconut water but they are cheaper in the long run @ <$2lb for stuff like organic popcorn).

fwiw i have a couple in week 3 of flower now that are a little N hungry i believe. my mix is a little N shy in that soil. I just did some fish hydrolysate, and liquid kelp in a bubbler for 12 hrs @ 1tbsp of each in 4 gal. they're praying hard still so i think they're ok. This next watering i'm just giving them boogie brew, EWC, molasses AACT, then aloe, then maybe the fish again. just want to let them sort it out. Have you tried neem cake meal before?? i have some ordered i'm just waiting for. going to topdress a little (little goes a long way from what i read). High in N, and great for the soil/microbes/plant.


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## GhostShadow (Sep 3, 2015)

subbed


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## GhostShadow (Sep 3, 2015)

My fav tea: EWC, Humboldt honey, dash of kangaroots, bit of maxicrop kelp extract. mix w/ 30 gal R/O at 70F bubble and circulate through old 120micron bag 24-32 hours apply at root zone, look out.

My fav rooting/ germinating fluid: head down to river after early summer rain is best. look for new growth and cut 1/2 -1" willow branches. section into 5" pieces then split. fill large sun tea jar with splits and clean river water. cover w/ cheese cloth and brew as sun tea for 24 hours. I left some for 30 days and germinated cat nip seeds in 4-5 days usually takes 8-24 days to germ these


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## Dr.D81 (Sep 3, 2015)

I used the weeping willow in my yard for years works great.


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## drekoushranada (Sep 4, 2015)

GhostShadow said:


> My fav tea: EWC, Humboldt honey, dash of kangaroots, bit of maxicrop kelp extract. mix w/ 30 gal R/O at 70F bubble and circulate through old 120micron bag 24-32 hours apply at root zone, look out.
> 
> My fav rooting/ germinating fluid: head down to river after early summer rain is best. look for new growth and cut 1/2 -1" willow branches. section into 5" pieces then split. fill large sun tea jar with splits and clean river water. cover w/ cheese cloth and brew as sun tea for 24 hours. I left some for 30 days and germinated cat nip seeds in 4-5 days usually takes 8-24 days to germ these


How much kelp extract per gallon?


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## GhostShadow (Sep 4, 2015)

drekoushranada said:


> How much kelp extract per gallon?


like a gram a gallon more if you wish to fix a low "K" issue

I also will put in a shot of high % humate / humic acid like earth juice its kind of redundant with the EWC in there but I find if there is any toxicity among the micros and macros then doing so will increase the CEC of the biomass which tends to buffer it reducing the effects of the overload or deficiency by balancing the %CS K and the %CS H towards most optimum

for instance you want to add kelp extract to your mix because of its beneficial properties However your soil is good for "K" and Kelp extract is very high in K.

now the fix for high "K" is add gypsum or sulfur. which corrects by leaching out excess "K" However your soil is already high in both lime and sulfur and is above most optimum to high in pH. and the leaching process takes both time and excess water.

( say your neighbors lawn is above your garden and you get some run off and he miscorrects a perceived "N: deficiency with iron sulfide and more Nitrogen (although you know its " I " lock is a result of high pH water with loads of Alkaline salts and Cal in it. and he would be way better off sprinkling a combo of peat moss and cotton seed meal over it instead which lowers pH and increases "N" and to put a sediment filter on his irrigation system.) so you've built a corrective biomass barrier and planted fescue on it to reduce the "N" the "I" the "S" and lower pH of the run off. 

But I regress

so you dont want to add either as a fix for the high "K" and the only reason you are adding Kelp ext is for its beneficial properties. so you do the only other fix you can and increase the CEC of the biomass in an effort to buffer the high Micros and Macros of "K" "S" and lime . now the lime and sulfur are doing a slow motion battle with each other over pH. and as we know too high a pH will cause neut lock out esp of iron and Mang and also "P" (when it gets over 7.5) so we want to increase the bio availability of these

a humate like earth juice is like mainlining the CEC of the soil it also goes through pumps way better than EWC and also converts quicker.


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## natureboygrower (Sep 4, 2015)

This is all very interesting. I was a bit proud of myself for the simple ewc tea I brew.reading this makes me feel a bit overwhelmed.lol.can you guys recommend any books about different teas and brew formulas? I'd like to read up this winter. So I take it you guys brew in order to not have to buy nutes?(and of course it's a superior end product I imagine) also,I did see something about rock dust in brew to help with mildew/mold,you guys agree? It was noted that rock dust may contain a lot of metals,so check on location where rock quarry is.thanks for any info.


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## natureboygrower (Sep 4, 2015)

Not so much books on recipes(this thread is going to help with that)but more about the science behind it all.thanks again


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## GhostShadow (Sep 4, 2015)

start with a quality soil analysis and go from there

http://www.groworganic.com/complete-soil-analysis.html

when in doubt increase the humic value (that is promote biological activity of the biomass and watch your "N") this is not the same as adding organic matter
EWC does this that is why it is so kick ass


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## GhostShadow (Sep 4, 2015)

Dr.D81 said:


> I used the weeping willow in my yard for years works great.


another great trick is to use the residual water from your next Ice water separation effort rather than living water in your willow juice.


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## Dr.D81 (Sep 4, 2015)

I have always just used rain water.


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## GhostShadow (Sep 4, 2015)

in clean country rain water is always really good


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## Dr.D81 (Sep 4, 2015)

We have the best water in the country


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## wilddog (Sep 8, 2015)

OutofLEDCloset said:


> Just saw video with Boogie Brew guy Josh. He recommends Vegan Mix from DTE top dressing and Boogie Brew. Thats it! KISS method. I just got my Boogie Brew this week. So far plants are dancing. The Pure Protein foliar stinks and wife hates but plants are praying. My closet grow is small so I just use tea at full strength.


I used the protein foliar on a outdoor medical grow this season during veg with good results. I will do it again next year. (From Boogy Brew


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## greengoblin2014 (Sep 19, 2015)

Ok so a few days ago I finished the book "teaming with microbes" and now understand how good compost teas are for the soil food web. I'm just curious of a few things and was hoping somebody here could help me out with their knowledge.. I see everybody has some very big and specific list of ingredients for their teas, after reading this book I see that the compost teas are much better with good compost preferably compost you've made yourself. Also they talk about soil being fungi or bacteria dominant or neutral. I'm interested in growing food and also learning more about growing hemp and cannabis. I know most veggies need a more bacteria dominant compost and longer plants like trees need a more fungi dominant compost. Also compost tea is either bacteria or fungi dominant. I was wondering what compost does cannabis prefer? I would guess bacteria dominant? Also like I said about the list of ingredients does that really matter? if you had a really good quality compost mixed in some organic molasses and some oatmeal to promote fungi and bubbled for 24 hrs would that be enough? Does cannabis need extra nutrients than food/veggies? Does the variety make a big difference? What if you had a fungi dominant compost and mixed it with a bacteria dominant fungi then made a tea with that? I'm thinking my best bet would be to make my own compost have some fungi dominant and some bacteria dominant, when growing veggies and cannabis use the bacteria dominant compost for tea, add comfrey and seaweed as they're easily available here, add some castings from my worm farm, add some molasses and some oatmeal then bubble it up..


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## natureboygrower (Sep 19, 2015)

I am no expert,and there are some real pros on here,for sure.I am just learning and using my own teas as of this year.I do see a lot of people using a lot of ingredients and "bennies" in their teas but I'm too novice for that right now.I follow microbeman's formula.it is a very conservative mix,he claims less is more.I'm not saying other ingredients won't help,it was the k.i.s.s. method I liked.compost or ewc,blackstrapp molasses,fish fertilizer, liquid seaweed that's all I used.for the vegging phase of my plants I used a compost mix,but for flowering I switched over to worm castings(this was a rtu bucket with humus and bat guano as well)during flowering.from what I understand the fish fertilzer is what gave it the fungal properties. (Anybody feel free to jump in,like I said,they're way more knowledgeable people on here.)I had a whole line of organics I planned on using,but mainly used my teas and loved the results.I am very interested in this and the book I will be getting. Making your own worm castings and compost is the way to go,I would think it would be way more "live" than a bag/bucket mix.looking forward to others commenting.


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## wilddog (Sep 19, 2015)

greengoblin2014 said:


> Ok so a few days ago I finished the book "teaming with microbes" and now understand how good compost teas are for the soil food web. I'm just curious of a few things and was hoping somebody here could help me out with their knowledge.. I see everybody has some very big and specific list of ingredients for their teas, after reading this book I see that the compost teas are much better with good compost preferably compost you've made yourself. Also they talk about soil being fungi or bacteria dominant or neutral. I'm interested in growing food and also learning more about growing hemp and cannabis. I know most veggies need a more bacteria dominant compost and longer plants like trees need a more fungi dominant compost. Also compost tea is either bacteria or fungi dominant. I was wondering what compost does cannabis prefer? I would guess bacteria dominant? Also like I said about the list of ingredients does that really matter? if you had a really good quality compost mixed in some organic molasses and some oatmeal to promote fungi and bubbled for 24 hrs would that be enough? Does cannabis need extra nutrients than food/veggies? Does the variety make a big difference? What if you had a fungi dominant compost and mixed it with a bacteria dominant fungi then made a tea with that? I'm thinking my best bet would be to make my own compost have some fungi dominant and some bacteria dominant, when growing veggies and cannabis use the bacteria dominant compost for tea, add comfrey and seaweed as they're easily available here, add some castings from my worm farm, add some molasses and some oatmeal then bubble it up..


Your asking a lot of questions here so, yes bacteria dominant, and yes it can be that simple like you said. Couple key things though one is you need lots of air, that's makes a big difference. If the water is to cold 45 - 55 degrees Fahrenheit at the end of your 24 hours you will not have as many microbes as you would at lets say 65 75 degrees Fahrenheit. 24 hours does seem to be a key time for the most bacteria. (Hours spent staring through a microscope) During the brew time I like to keep a 50 percent head space open, once again the air is very important. For me worm castings, and different compost , and molasses are always the main ingredient in any tea I make. I do believe you should start of with the KISS theology and you will learn more, and add more, experiment with different things to see what you like. What works for you might not work for someone else. I also use rain water when I can, it's soft water and is taken up buy the plant more efficiently.


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## natureboygrower (Sep 20, 2015)

wilddog said:


> Your asking a lot of questions here so, yes bacteria dominant, and yes it can be that simple like you said. Couple key things though one is you need lots of air, that's makes a big difference. If the water is to cold 45 - 55 degrees Fahrenheit at the end of your 24 hours you will not have as many microbes as you would at lets say 65 75 degrees Fahrenheit. 24 hours does seem to be a key time for the most bacteria. (Hours spent staring through a microscope) During the brew time I like to keep a 50 percent head space open, once again the air is very important. For me worm castings, and different compost , and molasses are always the main ingredient in any tea I make. I do believe you should start of with the KISS theology and you will learn more, and add more, experiment with different things to see what you like. What works for you might not work for someone else. I also use rain water when I can, it's soft water and is taken up buy the plant more efficiently.


Hey Dog,have you ever experimented with rock dust?I've read it may be useful preventing pm.I also know you may want to use it sparingly due to possible high metal content.also,I want to build a bigger brewer.I've seen vortex plans online but not much else.on the non vortex rigs,are diffusers mainly used or would pvc pipe with small holes drilled in it the way to go?


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## wilddog (Sep 20, 2015)

natureboygrower said:


> Hey Dog,have you ever experimented with rock dust?I've read it may be useful preventing pm.I also know you may want to use it sparingly due to possible high metal content.also,I want to build a bigger brewer.I've seen vortex plans online but not much else.on the non vortex rigs,are diffusers mainly used or would pvc pipe with small holes drilled in it the way to go?


The honest truth is I've have been pumping 70 liters a minute through 5 diffusers one in the Tea bag which I prefer. But I noticed that even though I take good care of all the large stones by scrubbing with a brush, high pressure h2o, and even bleach they will still clog in a season of regular use. So that being said I would be interested to see how well the air would defuse from a PVC one compared to the 5 large 6in stones I use. I do use rock dust, but not in my teas. I have heard of guys using fine powdered Azomite dust in there tea, but not to much to give some surface area for the farious bacteria to cling to. I would like to go from 70lm to 120lm the more the better. The set up I have for my tea will actually do both, vortex and saturation. but the vortex that mine creates, I don't feel pulls in enough air so I use a industrial air pump. (You can buy them cheap) in 24 hours I can create bacteria colonies that looks like witches hair on the diffuser lines.


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## wascaptain (Sep 24, 2015)

this is what I been using for the last couple of grows. I only use rain water . in the stocking is a half hand full of worn casting and fresh rabbit poop. usually in 12 hours it foams up nice. I cut it 80 percent rain water to 20 percent tea when watering. but remember I don't know crap, and only a hobby grower for my own use


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## wilddog (Sep 24, 2015)

wascaptain said:


> this is what I been using for the last couple of grows. I only use rain water . in the stocking is a half hand full of worn casting and fresh rabbit poop. usually in 12 hours it foams up nice. I cut it 80 percent rain water to 20 percent tea when watering. but remember I don't know crap, and only a hobby grower for my own use


Rabbit poop has one of the highest organic N2 content you can get, great for the Veg cycle.


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## wascaptain (Sep 28, 2015)

it took almost 24 hrs but it foamed up good


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## organixx325 (Sep 30, 2015)

Ok so this is my first real post on here. Ive been reading this thread for a lil bit just looking at different recipes. Ive been growing for about a year now so im still new and im really wondering what other growers think of my soil/teas.

Soil mix:
100 gal of happy frog potting soil
15 pounds of EWC (half bag)
6.5 tspn of tm-7
Half solo cup of insect frass
Half solo cup of neptunes harvest crab shell

Teas: im using right now(need to buy more ingredients to make ither teas)
Molasses
Ewc
1 oz of general organics bio weed

Tea #2: (ive used this in the past)
Molasses
EWC
1oz Foxfarm big blossom
1oz Ohrstrom's liquid seaweed

I add 4 gal of to these tea mixes and have a pump that pumps air into the bucket and i let it brew for about 3 days. I then PH it and apply it evenly throughout about 12 plants.

If anyone has any advice or ingredients that i should add to my mixes or even a recipe that i should try, your input is welcome.


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## ShLUbY (Sep 30, 2015)

organixx325 said:


> Ok so this is my first real post on here. Ive been reading this thread for a lil bit just looking at different recipes. Ive been growing for about a year now so im still new and im really wondering what other growers think of my soil/teas.
> 
> Soil mix:
> 100 gal of happy frog potting soil
> ...


the big blossom fox farm is a counter productive ingredient. though it says organic, its probably hurting your micro life. i don't know about the other bottled nutes that are being used. i'd have to look them up. have you thought about making your own living soil? its really simple to do, and you only need to add water once you get your microlife populations high in the soil.


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## organixx325 (Sep 30, 2015)

Well my soil does have microbes already thats what the tm7 provides in the soil mix i also recycle my soil every harvest i just add the ammendments again. I think im gonna try a new soil recipe and tea recipe once i do a lil more research on here.


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## organixx325 (Sep 30, 2015)

ShLUbY said:


> the big blossom fox farm is a counter productive ingredient. though it says organic, its probably hurting your micro life. i don't know about the other bottled nutes that are being used. i'd have to look them up. have you thought about making your own living soil? its really simple to do, and you only need to add water once you get your microlife populations high in the soil.



If you have a recipe in mind id like to hear it.


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## ShLUbY (Sep 30, 2015)

ShLUbY said:


> Recipe:
> 
> 33% highest quality compost you can get your hands on, 33% drainage (pumice, rice hulls, lava rock, whatever you want to use), 33% sphagnum peat moss
> 
> ...


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## organixx325 (Sep 30, 2015)

Thank you! I will deffinately look into that and try to get a batch of new stuff cooking for my next cycle.

Also for tea only EWC and molasses is really all you need?


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## ShLUbY (Sep 30, 2015)

organixx325 said:


> Also for tea only EWC and molasses is really all you need?


yup!


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## Dr.D81 (Sep 30, 2015)

organixx325 said:


> Thank you! I will deffinately look into that and try to get a batch of new stuff cooking for my next cycle.
> 
> Also for tea only EWC and molasses is really all you need?


In veg i use blood meal, alfalfa, molasses, and ewc. I brew for three days and add fish poo after i brew.


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## natureboygrower (Sep 30, 2015)

Is it necessary to ph your tea?I figured that was counterproductive. I thought teas corrected soil imbalances? Also,might that kill bennies?


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## organixx325 (Oct 1, 2015)

Yea I PH everything i give them. Water and teas. Should i not PH? I use tapwater and let it sit out for at least 12 hrs before using.


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## ShLUbY (Oct 1, 2015)

there is no need to Ph the teas. if your soil is built properly and has a good population of microbes, the microbes will take care of the Ph for you. The crab shell meal combined with oysters shell flour is the liming agent of the recipe i posted, there is no use for dolomite lime.

also it's best to keep compost teas and nutrient teas seperate. i don't add anything extra to my compost teas.


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## Dr.D81 (Oct 1, 2015)

Plus guys if you brew it properly it should end with the proper ph. I got half my girls over 10 ft this year feeding only with my teas.


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## ShLUbY (Oct 1, 2015)

yeah when i brewed my first compost tea ever i check the Ph just for the hell of it, and as the Dr. just said, it was the proper Ph.


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## natureboygrower (Oct 1, 2015)

IMO you only need to ph using chems.I could be wrong,but I had problems phing organics this summer(biobizz).talked to a rep for the co.and he said it wasn't necessary, the nutes were buffered anyways.from doing a little research I learned that this topic carries some heat.some say ph EVERYTHING.all's I'm saying is when I did,it seemed to yellow my leaves. (This was during veg)I stopped phing and finally said f the Biobizz and went strictly teas.don't think I'll go back.good soil and correctly brewed teas is all I'm running from now on.just my opinion.


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## Steelheader3430 (Oct 5, 2015)

I read worm casting tea helps fight fungus gnat larvae. I've got fg and recently discovered I've had an ongoing problem with thrips. Never seen an adult thrip though. I've got a jar full of habanero water, mosquito dunks, DE and picked up some captain jacks dead bug. 
The bti dunks have suppressed the fg. 
Is habanero water ok for a root drench? Should I just spray the captain jacks for the thrips and topdress DE for the gnats? Fucking bugs are dicks.


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## organixx325 (Oct 5, 2015)

Steelheader3430 said:


> I read worm casting tea helps fight fungus gnat larvae. I've got fg and recently discovered I've had an ongoing problem with thrips. Never seen an adult thrip though. I've got a jar full of habanero water, mosquito dunks, DE and picked up some captain jacks dead bug.
> The bti dunks have suppressed the fg.
> Is habanero water ok for a root drench? Should I just spray the captain jacks for the thrips and topdress DE for the gnats? Fucking bugs are dicks.


I just found a small amount of thrips a couple weeks ago. I used the captain jacks dead bug sinosad followed the mix directions and sprayed every leaf in my grow every two days for a week. I also used diotomaceous earth and put a thick layer on the top of the soil of all my plants. Havent found any bugs after the first spray.

I also heard fungus gnats and thrips are common together. Not sure how true it is but it was for me.


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## Lucifder (Oct 5, 2015)

Just wondering if some on here could help me out! I recently made the switch to organics and was wondering if humic acid or fulvic acid will kik the mykos in the tea


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## Dr.D81 (Oct 6, 2015)

Lucifder said:


> Just wondering if some on here could help me out! I recently made the switch to organics and was wondering if humic acid or fulvic acid will kik the mykos in the tea


Yes you want to feed them HA and FA on an off day when you are not feeding any tea. You don't want it in when you brew it ether.


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## Lucifder (Oct 6, 2015)

Dr.D81 said:


> Yes you want to feed them HA and FA on an off day when you are not feeding any tea. You don't want it in when you brew it ether.


Awesome thanks for response. Other than that it wont harm the microbial life in the soil if I feed seperately?


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## Dr.D81 (Oct 6, 2015)

Lucifder said:


> Awesome thanks for response. Other than that it wont harm the microbial life in the soil if I feed seperately?


Shouldn't i have done it for years now. I dont give them but maybe 2 times total and add it to the soil when i mix it.


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## Lucifder (Oct 6, 2015)

Dr.D81 said:


> Shouldn't i have done it for years now. I dont give them but maybe 2 times total and add it to the soil when i mix it.


Sorry brotha I didn't really understand your response, 2 times there whole cycle? Plus whatever is in your soil


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## Dr.D81 (Oct 6, 2015)

Lucifder said:


> Sorry brotha I didn't really understand your response, 2 times there whole cycle? Plus whatever is in your soil


Yea a little goes a long way. One table spoon when you batch soil and yes i give time some twice in flower or so.


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## Lucifder (Oct 6, 2015)

Dr.D81 said:


> Yea a little goes a long way. One table spoon when you batch soil and yes i give time some twice in flower or so.


Wow that is a little but I take your word for it I just saw the picture of your monster garden you posted and its amazing haha. Thanks again for thw knowledge I'll be sticking around this thread in case I have another question. Since I made the switch from synthetics I fell in love its the least stressful way of growing no more ph'ing or mixing nutes one at a time in certain orders. Thanks again brotha. Bless it and stay up.


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## st0wandgrow (Oct 6, 2015)

Lucifder said:


> Awesome thanks for response. Other than that it wont harm the microbial life in the soil if I feed seperately?


If you're starting with a good source of compost/worm castings, there should be no need to supplement humic and fulvic acids IMO.


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## ShLUbY (Oct 7, 2015)

i'm looking to use neem sytemically... not sure that it will have any effect on the PM, but wtf, it's worth a shot along with the foliars. 

anyone have a good neem tea recipe for systemic use?


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## bankcee (Oct 29, 2015)

norcal mmj said:


> Hey all, I'm just starting teas with dry amendments. I'm wondering on how long to let them soak in my tea to get the most out of my amendments. I just got all the ingredients for subs supersoil and bought it in 25 pound bags so I can make it for a few years. I thought I should try teas with so much extra amendments around. I'm only looking for bloom teas mostly, my soil is good for veg. Any help or ideas is great.


dry ammendments? like what? nutrient teas? can it be done? they are water soluble? or percentages of the npk are soluble and the rest isn't?


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## norcal mmj (Oct 29, 2015)

bankcee said:


> dry ammendments? like what? nutrient teas? can it be done? they are water soluble? or percentages of the npk are soluble and the rest isn't?


Well I have learned about plant fermentation now. So I have been doing that with kelp and alfalfa. Other than that I just use some of my soil for teas after I compost my dry amendments into it. I also save all my leftover material from my teas and mix it into soil when I make it.


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## bankcee (Nov 4, 2015)

anyone.. I'm noticing a mild n def and I'm 3 weeks into flower. 2 weeks and like 4 days I believe. also I think there might be a P def coming on as well. I did a tea the other day with down to earth kelp and down to earth alfalfa, placed in nylon and brewed for 24 hours. watered in at like 3:1 ratio. 

I need a simple tea recipe.. I'm gonna be getting neptunes fish hydrolysate. seaweed and kelp I believe it has. anything else I should get. not much of a budget right now.. but I don't have all the stuff in people's recipes on hand. 

all I have is ewc, some cooking super soil, alfalfa, crab, neem seed meal, fish bone meal, and kelp. all down to earth dry ammendments.


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## Dr.D81 (Nov 4, 2015)

bankcee said:


> anyone.. I'm noticing a mild n def and I'm 3 weeks into flower. 2 weeks and like 4 days I believe. also I think there might be a P def coming on as well. I did a tea the other day with down to earth kelp and down to earth alfalfa, placed in nylon and brewed for 24 hours. watered in at like 3:1 ratio.
> 
> I need a simple tea recipe.. I'm gonna be getting neptunes fish hydrolysate. seaweed and kelp I believe it has. anything else I should get. not much of a budget right now.. but I don't have all the stuff in people's recipes on hand.
> 
> all I have is ewc, some cooking super soil, alfalfa, crab, neem seed meal, fish bone meal, and kelp. all down to earth dry ammendments.


You shouldnt need anything else but some molasses or brown sugar to feed the microbes.


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## bankcee (Nov 4, 2015)

Dr.D81 said:


> You shouldnt need anything else but some molasses or brown sugar to feed the microbes.


even if my soil is depleted. I did one tea the other day and my leaves are yellowing and falling if left and right.


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## Dr.D81 (Nov 4, 2015)

From the pic you sent me i say they are in need of a bigger pot and a good dose of n and cal\mag and they sould be fine.


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## ShLUbY (Nov 5, 2015)

why cal/mag? he's got some N def. going on for sure... and i agree i think those containers are filled to the max.

nm, i didn't see the "n" before the cal/mag... thought it just said cal/mag haha. DER!


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## bankcee (Nov 5, 2015)

yeah @ShLUbY trying to find a simple maybe fungal dominant tea. but yeah I found one ima send to you in a bit..


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## Indagrow (Nov 5, 2015)

Can teas be used on an indoor flood table, or would an individual soil drench be more efficient? Going to be vegging for two weeks to fill a large screen with already mature plants in a new environment..would love a healthy start to this flower session


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## ShLUbY (Nov 5, 2015)

bankcee said:


> yeah @ShLUbY trying to find a simple maybe fungal dominant tea. but yeah I found one ima send to you in a bit..


you need nutrients my friend. fungal might help... but nutrient is what you need. you container is rootbound for sure. they been in there a long time, and they have probably 5 weeks to go... you gotta give them nutrient teas!!! the fish hydrolysate will help your N and P, but you'll need something for K as well...

how is the watering going?


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## bankcee (Nov 5, 2015)

I came home for lunch right now.. gonna check them in like 10 minutes. and see how they dried. haven't watered on whole day. and haven't checked them yet today. 

but my buddy is gonna get me some neptunes hydrolyzed fish. it's a blend of fish hydrolysate and seaweed..


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## bankcee (Nov 5, 2015)

and I say fungal dominant tea because I don't wanna loose sight that regardless of my N defs that I didn't catch in time, I still need to focus on the bloom. and I've read multiple sources that flowering plant love the fungal teas.


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## natureboygrower (Nov 5, 2015)

From what I understand, you're on the right track then.adding a fish fert.will increase fungal levels.I also use just straight compost I'm my bag during veg and ewc when I get into bloom.maybe try a mix of ewc/compost to help N def?just my 2,not an expert.good luck


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## bankcee (Nov 5, 2015)

@ShLUbY they feel light but not that light? and the soil still seems cold and moist about an inch deep. think I should let them go another day?


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## ShLUbY (Nov 5, 2015)

bankcee said:


> @ShLUbY they feel light but not that light? and the soil still seems cold and moist about an inch deep. think I should let them go another day?


yeah let them go. like i said, it make take one time of letting them dry too much, but you will get the feel for their response.


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## Dr.D81 (Nov 5, 2015)

ShLUbY said:


> why cal/mag? he's got some N def. going on for sure... and i agree i think those containers are filled to the max.
> 
> nm, i didn't see the "n" before the cal/mag... thought it just said cal/mag haha. DER!


Mostly because the cal mag i use has iron too and it will help green that shit up too


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## bankcee (Nov 5, 2015)

Dr.D81 said:


> Mostly because the cal mag i use has iron too and it will help green that shit up too


what cal/mag you use?


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## ShLUbY (Nov 6, 2015)

dont quote me on this, but i think the general organics one is clean...


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## Dr.D81 (Nov 7, 2015)

bankcee said:


> what cal/mag you use?


I use this from time to time but not much. I have a family that eats alot of eggs so the shells get fed to my worms along with oyster shells. I also put oyster shells in my soil along with epson salt. This means i dont need the calmag much but i did give it to my greenhouse plants twice this year with no ill affects. for the most par i feed them with amended soil and teas


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## unwine99 (Nov 7, 2015)

Dr.D81 said:


> I use this from time to time but not much. I have a family that eats alot of eggs so the shells get fed to my worms along with oyster shells. I also put oyster shells in my soil along with epson salt. This means i dont need the calmag much but i did give it to my greenhouse plants twice this year with no ill affects. for the most par i feed them with amended soil and teas
> View attachment 3537420 View attachment 3537421 View attachment 3537422 View attachment 3537423


James Spader is hiding in your garden.


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## bankcee (Nov 7, 2015)

Dr.D81 said:


> I use this from time to time but not much. I have a family that eats alot of eggs so the shells get fed to my worms along with oyster shells. I also put oyster shells in my soil along with epson salt. This means i dont need the calmag much but i did give it to my greenhouse plants twice this year with no ill affects. for the most par i feed them with amended soil and teas
> View attachment 3537420 View attachment 3537421 View attachment 3537422 View attachment 3537423



your greenhouse is insane!! hahaha fucking dope. how do you keep humidity down in there? just that one small fan?

and from birds eye, is it real noticeable? I wanna do this in my backyard but you know the pigs and shit.


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## Dr.D81 (Nov 7, 2015)

bankcee said:


> your greenhouse is insane!! hahaha fucking dope. how do you keep humidity down in there? just that one small fan?
> 
> and from birds eye, is it real noticeable? I wanna do this in my backyard but you know the pigs and shit.


Yea it is noticable but i am in a rec\med state. There are some great woven ghouse coverings that hide what is inside really well, but the smell would be the hard part to handle. I ran 2 x 6in high velocity fans, 2 x wall mount oscillating fans, 1 x box fan, and two dehumidifiers


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## ShLUbY (Nov 7, 2015)

Dr.D81 said:


> Yea it is noticable but i am in a rec\med state. There are some great woven ghouse coverings that hide what is inside really well, but the smell would be the hard part to handle. I ran 2 x 6in high velocity fans, 2 x wall mount oscillating fans, 1 x box fan, and two dehumidifiers


lol two big ass dehumidifiers... i bet there's a lot of transpiration in that garden there. nicely done.


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## bankcee (Nov 7, 2015)

Dr.D81 said:


> Yea it is noticable but i am in a rec\med state. There are some great woven ghouse coverings that hide what is inside really well, but the smell would be the hard part to handle. I ran 2 x 6in high velocity fans, 2 x wall mount oscillating fans, 1 x box fan, and two dehumidifiers


I wanna do outdoors but it's just too hot where I'm at. I'll get pinched for sure. I'm surprised I haven't for the ones I have right now. but I don't wanna get stupid and try more plants and get pinched on that run. woven greenhouse? I'm gonna google that right now. would still probable have to run the same air circulation as you though right? and does sun penetrate through the one your saying conceals what is inside?


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## Dr.D81 (Nov 7, 2015)

bankcee said:


> I wanna do outdoors but it's just too hot where I'm at. I'll get pinched for sure. I'm surprised I haven't for the ones I have right now. but I don't wanna get stupid and try more plants and get pinched on that run. woven greenhouse? I'm gonna google that right now. would still probable have to run the same air circulation as you though right? and does sun penetrate through the one your saying conceals what is inside?


Yea and the woven shit last a lot longer. Heard of guys getting 11 years out of it as opposed to 4 on greenhouse poly like I have


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## BigDoobie (Nov 7, 2015)

Am I missing out on anything if I dont brew veg or bloom teas? I've done a few in the past but figured I can just top dress whatever it is I'm brewing instead. Just takes a bit longer to be effective but anything I'm missing? I'm only referring to veg and bloom teas.


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## ShLUbY (Nov 7, 2015)

BigDoobie said:


> Am I missing out on anything if I dont brew veg or bloom teas? I've done a few in the past but figured I can just top dress whatever it is I'm brewing instead. Just takes a bit longer to be effective but anything I'm missing? I'm only referring to veg and bloom teas.


the only way to find out is to do a side by side with the current methods you employ in your grow. not everyone grows the same, and what works well for some, may not show results with others that they are looking for. just saying, everyone has their own little things they do... try it out and see for yourself!


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## BigDoobie (Nov 7, 2015)

Yea you're right about that. I've got only one pot so I can't really do side by sides yet. Lets say your plants are dark green, healthy and you have amended enough to last the whole grow. Would you feed it a veg or bloom tea still? When my veg plants are yellowing or getting light Ill brew a tea for 10 mins then top dress. Theres been lots of talk about teas lately Im wondering if I'm missing out on anything.


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## ShLUbY (Nov 7, 2015)

BigDoobie said:


> Yea you're right about that. I've got only one pot so I can't really do side by sides yet. Lets say your plants are dark green, healthy and you have amended enough to last the whole grow. Would you feed it a veg or bloom tea still? When my veg plants are yellowing or getting light Ill brew a tea for 10 mins then top dress. Theres been lots of talk about teas lately Im wondering if I'm missing out on anything.


if you have a fully amended soil, i dont think youre missing out on anything. but if you knew a tea that boosted PK or something and proved to work, then yeah i would say go for it. it's just hard to tell unless you do side by side, stay organized, keep notes, and all that jazz. I have a grow log i keep outside my room to try and keep track of everything i'm doing in there so i don't let the side effects of the medicine make me forget what i watered last time lol. was it aloe, or coconut? shit, i don't remember!


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## BigDoobie (Nov 7, 2015)

My man, same here. I have dementia when it comes to watering, well at least with hydro. Can I burn my plants or cause a lockout? I might give my plants a veg tea but I'm not sure they really need it, they're dark green and growing nice.


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## bankcee (Nov 8, 2015)

BigDoobie said:


> My man, same here. I have dementia when it comes to watering, well at least with hydro. Can I burn my plants or cause a lockout? I might give my plants a veg tea but I'm not sure they really need it, they're dark green and growing nice.



pics brotha. if it's not broken why fix it? when you run into a problem you'll realize it..


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## BigDoobie (Nov 8, 2015)

Its not broke. I'm just wondering if I could get anything extra out of my plants with a veg or bloom tea. I've been seeing lots of posts and threads about teas lately so I've been wondering if it would help or be counter productive if I brewed a tea. I saw someone post about not being able to burn your plants because its organic and what not earlier in this thread, but I have burned the crap out of mine before. I'm trying to get results that are just as good as if I had used veg and bloom teas.


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## ShLUbY (Nov 8, 2015)

BigDoobie said:


> Its not broke. I'm just wondering if I could get anything extra out of my plants with a veg or bloom tea. I've been seeing lots of posts and threads about teas lately so I've been wondering if it would help or be counter productive if I brewed a tea. I saw someone post about not being able to burn your plants because its organic and what not earlier in this thread, but I have burned the crap out of mine before. I'm trying to get results that are just as good as if I had used veg and bloom teas.


nah you're not missing anything in veg. a simple Kelp + alfalfa tea at 1tbsp of each per gallon of water, bubbled for 24hrs is all you need for veg, and if you have amended soil, you really don't even need to. AACT is the only tea that you should be doing every 4 weeks or so (some argue you dont even need to do it that often). just good to make sure microbes are alive and well in the soil!


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## ShLUbY (Nov 8, 2015)

BigDoobie said:


> Its not broke. I'm just wondering if I could get anything extra out of my plants with a veg or bloom tea. I've been seeing lots of posts and threads about teas lately so I've been wondering if it would help or be counter productive if I brewed a tea. I saw someone post about not being able to burn your plants because its organic and what not earlier in this thread, but I have burned the crap out of mine before. I'm trying to get results that are just as good as if I had used veg and bloom teas.


one more thing.... your source of HUMUS is the most important aspect of your grow. focus on the humus, not the teas.


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## Dr.D81 (Nov 9, 2015)

I have to agree and disagree with @ShLUbY yes focus on your soil first and for for most and the plants take care of them selves. I was talking to @papapayne just the other day about how i obsess about my soil, and have not found a bag mix i like. Funny part is i can make several mixes depending on what i can find at the time but cant find a bag mix. That said IMO you do still need teas because when you "brew" your tea you are growing colonies of arobic bacteria as well as separating fungal growths that you then introduce to soil. I also make other batchs of tea that are specific fungal teas as well as enzymes teas. I introduce pest, pm, and bud rot controls in them by adding og bio war roots and Actinovate in sometimes. I am always brewing something i just change the ingredients up.


BigDoobie said:


> Its not broke. I'm just wondering if I could get anything extra out of my plants with a veg or bloom tea. I've been seeing lots of posts and threads about teas lately so I've been wondering if it would help or be counter productive if I brewed a tea. I saw someone post about not being able to burn your plants because its organic and what not earlier in this thread, but I have burned the crap out of mine before. I'm trying to get results that are just as good as if I had used veg and bloom teas.





ShLUbY said:


> nah you're not missing anything in veg. a simple Kelp + alfalfa tea at 1tbsp of each per gallon of water, bubbled for 24hrs is all you need for veg, and if you have amended soil, you really don't even need to. AACT is the only tea that you should be doing every 4 weeks or so (some argue you dont even need to do it that often). just good to make sure microbes are alive and well in the soil!


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## ShLUbY (Nov 9, 2015)

Dr.D81 said:


> I have to agree and disagree with @ShLUbY yes focus on your soil first and for for most and the plants take care of them selves. I was talking to @papapayne just the other day about how i obsess about my soil, and have not found a bag mix i like. Funny part is i can make several mixes depending on what i can find at the time but cant find a bag mix. That said IMO you do still need teas because when you "brew" your tea you are growing colonies of arobic bacteria as well as separating fungal growths that you then introduce to soil. I also make other batchs of tea that are specific fungal teas as well as enzymes teas. I introduce pest, pm, and bud rot controls in them by adding og bio war roots and Actinovate in sometimes. I am always brewing something i just change the ingredients up.


i totally agree with the AACT, that one is a standard for any organic gardener... and same for the SST/enzyme teass, and fungal dom teas to i suppose. i was just referring to guano teas and things like that. i guess i should have been more specific. i know that they also do provide bacteria and the like, but i just feel like they are unnecessary in amended soils if you're trying to jam more nutrients in there.


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## Dr.D81 (Nov 9, 2015)

ShLUbY said:


> i totally agree with the AACT, that one is a standard for any organic gardener... and same for the SST/enzyme teass, and fungal dom teas to i suppose. i was just referring to guano teas and things like that. i guess i should have been more specific. i know that they also do provide bacteria and the like, but i just feel like they are unnecessary in amended soils if you're trying to jam more nutrients in there.


Well now that is a good point for the guys here new to a more organic growing style is you dont need to feed the plant you have to feed your soil


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## papapayne (Nov 9, 2015)

Once you see first hand the explosion in growth after feeding some rich organic soil acct, you won't want to go back to chem nutes. I know I have fed heavy teas and never burned with them, and the plants respond so nicely.


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## BigDoobie (Nov 10, 2015)

papapayne said:


> Once you see first hand the explosion in growth after feeding some rich organic soil acct, you won't want to go back to chem nutes. I know I have fed heavy teas and never burned with them, and the plants respond so nicely.


What was in your teas? I might have went too heavy on the alfalfa. If your soils heavily amended, I doubt adding more food (teas) to feed the soil is going to do much until whatever nutrients are there starts to get used up. I always thought top dressing and nutrient teas were a "different strokes for different folks kind of thing". You amend and top dress ahead of time as needed, then use teas when you need a quick nutrient boost. Maybe I'm wrong. Wouldn't the same types of bacteria and fungus grow when you top dress and keep your soil moist? I'm trying to find a reason or way to stop brewing teas all together so I can get to know my blumats better.


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## papapayne (Nov 10, 2015)

The way I have always understood it....the amendments are the food in the soil. Brewing AACT is about creating large massive colonies of benefical bacteria, and fungi, that will then eat the amendments in the soil and convert it to usable nutes for the roots.


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## papapayne (Nov 10, 2015)

Heavily amended soils don't need as strong/heavy of tea, but brewing up EWC/Compost and molasses still super charge the soil with large numbers of bennies.


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## papapayne (Nov 10, 2015)

Oh yea...whats in my teas.

This needs a big upgrade due to size but 
I have a ten gallon trash can - fill up with RO water or at least water with no chlorine 
I add 4 large handfulls of EWC
Half a jar of molasses 
OG Bio War 
then about a 1/2 cup of:
Alfalfa meal
kelp meal
Seaweed extract
fish emulsion
guano 

Brew for 2 days, then I add mycos and brew for another 4-6 hours.


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## Dr.D81 (Nov 11, 2015)




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## papapayne (Nov 11, 2015)

I've heard, never used one though. That a compost tea bag will hold the debris together so it wont clog blumat lines, and foliage prayers. I see them at nurseries, and grow,stores. They look like an all mesh bubble bag almost. Might be the ticket,for,ya to use blumats with tea.


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## ShLUbY (Nov 11, 2015)

papapayne said:


> I've heard, never used one though. That a compost tea bag will hold the debris together so it wont clog blumat lines, and foliage prayers. I see them at nurseries, and grow,stores. They look like an all mesh bubble bag almost. Might be the ticket,for,ya to use blumats with tea.


i'd say just water in the tea. blumat will sense the extra moisture in the pot and stop dripping h2o. one thing i may do as well is close the cap a little tighter on the blumat a day or two before i plan to drench the tea, so it dries up a little better and i'm not oversaturating the medium. haven't tried this yet, but seems logical. just rather not deal with worrying about clogs, or cleaning/changing lines and what not. straight h2o for now anyway...


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## Dr.D81 (Nov 11, 2015)

I always liked hand applying the teas so i can get the particulates to. Anything that makes it in settles as top dressing and the stuff that is still in the bottom of the trah can goes to the worms.


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## Kind Sir (Nov 12, 2015)

I need a tea to wet my soil down so it can age, what do you think? I dont have seaweed or fish hydrolize. I also only have a small bucket, air stone/pump (44.3 GPH,) and panty hose to make the tea for now. 
I have..
Alfalfa
Kelp
Crab Shell
Fish bone
Compost
Ewc
Blackstrap
Dynagro protekt 

Looking to order aloe, and the fish/kelp/seaweed mix


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## Dr.D81 (Nov 12, 2015)

Kind Sir said:


> i need a tea to wet my soil down so it can age, what do you think? I dont have seaweed or fish hydrolize. I also only have a small bucket, air stone/pump (44.3 GPH,) and panty hose to make the tea for now.
> I have..
> Alfalfa
> Kelp
> ...


Only thing with a small air pump is to keep your over all volume low. I would brew it in a 2lt bottle or 1/2 gal milk jug with the top cut off. Brew it strong and mix that in to more water to apply.


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## Kind Sir (Nov 12, 2015)

Dr.D81 said:


> Only thing with a small air pump is to keep your over all volume low. I would brew it in a 2lt bottle or 1/2 gal milk jug with the top cut off. Brew it strong and mix that in to more water to apply.


Ok man thanks. So for now, I can just put the air stone in the jug/bucket, put ingredients in panty hose in the container and bubble?


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## Kind Sir (Nov 12, 2015)

So there are teas for veg, flower, and then AACT which are for microbial boosts? 

Why would one want to brew bact. dominate opposed to fungi dominate? I want to start a brew tonight for my veg plants, like a microbial boost mainly.


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## ShLUbY (Nov 12, 2015)

Kind Sir said:


> So there are teas for veg, flower, and then AACT which are for microbial boosts?
> 
> Why would one want to brew bact. dominate opposed to fungi dominate? I want to start a brew tonight for my veg plants, like a microbial boost mainly.


cannabis is a plant that thrives more in a bacterial soil as opposed to a fungal dom soil. but there are still both types of organism in nature in bacterial soils, so this is why we use both.

the fungi, i just do the myco dust on the roots right at transplant. AACT is for the bacterial teas. nutrient teas can also produce bacterial colonies, but also contain the nutrients, which are more for lighter amended soils imo.

im by no means a tea expert and there are much more knowledgeable folks on here.

EDIT: fungi are masters at providing plants with available phosphorus and water too.


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## BigDoobie (Nov 13, 2015)

Can I put mosquito dunks in my compost tea? I'm brewing one right now with just compost and kelp. Would it work the same if putting the dunks in a sprayer?


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## st0wandgrow (Nov 13, 2015)

BigDoobie said:


> Am I missing out on anything if I dont brew veg or bloom teas? I've done a few in the past but figured I can just top dress whatever it is I'm brewing instead. Just takes a bit longer to be effective but anything I'm missing? I'm only referring to veg and bloom teas.


It all depends on your soil. If it's well amended, then there is no need for nutrient teas. If your soil is well colonized (by using a good source of compost/vermicompost), then there is no need to apply compost teas. I have been using just water for quite some time now, and my plants are as healthy and productive as they've ever been.

Having said that, there really is no harm in applying teas.... especially if there is something lacking in your soil. Us growers like to tinker, so if brewing teas helps you sleep at night by all means do it! I just don't feel it's necessary.


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## Kind Sir (Nov 17, 2015)

Is there a thorough thread on teas or anything? I dont want to ask questions unless nec3ssary, rather read myself and ask if I have to.

I want to learn more about teas, I hsve Teaming with Microbes but havnt gotten too far in it yet. Last night I did my first tea..

Cut top off gallon water jug. Put in just over a half gallon non chlorine water. I used..

Just under half cup EWC and just under half cup Compost. 
Real small dash of alfalfa and kelp. Honestly forgot the BSM as it was super late and wash rushing, should I add it when I get home in a hr? Like a teaspoon? Or is the meals good enough for microbe food?


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## ShLUbY (Nov 17, 2015)

yeah add the BSM. add probably a tablespoon, as you'll be diluting this tea to stretch it further correct? they (microbes) prefer the sugars and will populate fast with the BSM. the meals are nice because they add a little dissolved food into your tea, as well as some other things like growth hormones from the alfalfa, and enzymes and micros from the kelp.


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## Kind Sir (Nov 17, 2015)

ShLUbY said:


> yeah add the BSM. add probably a tablespoon, as you'll be diluting this tea to stretch it further correct? they (microbes) prefer the sugars and will populate fast with the BSM. the meals are nice because they add a little dissolved food into your tea, as well as some other things like growth hormones from the alfalfa, and enzymes and micros from the kelp.


Im actually not sure what to do when it comes to diluting it. This batch was going to be sprayed onto my "cooking" soil tonight, is 24hr enough? I read that kelp has negative effects on microbes until its brewed for 24hr.

After I use this one on my soil, Im going to make another tea for my veg plants. Im transplanting two plants from 2gal smarts to 7gallon smart pots (my plan is to buy the blue 7gallon bags from walmart for the other plants, dont have time to wait for shipping and read they work just the same as smart pots?)

I dont have any beneficials for the transplant, except an older bottle of "Root Dip - Microbe Life Hydroponics" brand.


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## ShLUbY (Nov 17, 2015)

Kind Sir said:


> Im actually not sure what to do when it comes to diluting it. This batch was going to be sprayed onto my "cooking" soil tonight, is 24hr enough? I read that kelp has negative effects on microbes until its brewed for 24hr.
> 
> After I use this one on my soil, Im going to make another tea for my veg plants. Im transplanting two plants from 2gal smarts to 7gallon smart pots (my plan is to buy the blue 7gallon bags from walmart for the other plants, dont have time to wait for shipping and read they work just the same as smart pots?)
> 
> I dont have any beneficials for the transplant, except an older bottle of "Root Dip - Microbe Life Hydroponics" brand.


bene's come from the tea. they'll be ok until you can brew another tea for them. i would use the myco dust during transplant right on the roots when you pull them out of their current pot.

24 is ok, but 36 is better most likely. if you just added the BSM... i'd probably wait another 24h if it were me. and honestly, i would use the tea you have now for your veg plants since you have the kelp and alfalfa in there. the soil you're going to cook doesn't need the alfalfa or kelp in the tea. just EWC + BSM. it's fine to water in your cooking soil with the tea you have though. and make sure you moisten the soil well, but not to the point where it requires any run off. 

i believe you have a small air pump and small container you're making tea in, yes? you could make a more concentrated tea, with 2tbsp of BSM in one gallon h2o, and 1 cup of EWC/Compost, and then when the tea is done add 2 gallons of RO to it, and you have 3 gal of good microbial tea.


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## Kind Sir (Nov 17, 2015)

ShLUbY said:


> bene's come from the tea. they'll be ok until you can brew another tea for them. i would use the myco dust during transplant right on the roots when you pull them out of their current pot.
> 
> 24 is ok, but 36 is better most likely. if you just added the BSM... i'd probably wait another 24h if it were me. and honestly, i would use the tea you have now for your veg plants since you have the kelp and alfalfa in there. the soil you're going to cook doesn't need the alfalfa or kelp in the tea. just EWC + BSM. it's fine to water in your cooking soil with the tea you have though. and make sure you moisten the soil well, but not to the point where it requires any run off.
> 
> i believe you have a small air pump and small container you're making tea in, yes? you could make a more concentrated tea, with 2tbsp of BSM in one gallon h2o, and 1 cup of EWC/Compost, and then when the tea is done add 2 gallons of RO to it, and you have 3 gal of good microbial tea.


Yes just a 44.3 gallon per hour pump. Good idea on making a strong tea and diluting it. Thanks for taking the time to reply I appreciate it. I used such a small amount of kelp/alfalfa Im going to add the BSM and wait another 24HR and water the cooking soil. Thanks bud.


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## SahTiva (Dec 7, 2015)

Does this tell you guys anything?


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## norcal mmj (Dec 8, 2015)

So I just started teas this year. At first I just used my extra soil that I make. Now I'm doing a compost/ewc tea. I was wondering what ever one likes to use in bloom teas ? I'm using aloe, molasses, mycos and humic in my mix.


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## tensing7 (Dec 18, 2015)

norcal mmj said:


> So I just started teas this year. At first I just used my extra soil that I make. Now I'm doing a compost/ewc tea. I was wondering what ever one likes to use in bloom teas ? I'm using aloe, molasses, mycos and humic in my mix.


 Bat guano. NPK 3-15-4


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## PopTop (Dec 27, 2015)

Hey Guys, I have my first batch of organic soil cooking, never tried organics, have always been a chemical nute grower and fed up with Phing, nute burn and all the other headaches of growing weed that way. I also have a batch of pro-mix ultimate organic soil with ewc's and perlite added that I'm gonna grow my next batch in till my soil is done cooking. My question is although I have a lot of chemical nutes still left (but really don't want to use), can I use teas instead of the chemicals for this type of soil (pro-mix ultimate organic). I've searched RIU for an answer but haven't found one yet. I don't think it would hurt seeing as its organic but would like some opinions on this. Thanks in advance


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## guardogz (Jan 6, 2016)

hey top. props to you coming over to the organic side. re your super soil my experience has been that it ends up a bit hot, esp for seedlings and clones. the pro mix also sounds full of good stuff. point is that both soils may feed your girls just fine for a month or more. and you may only need good water(correct ph and ppm) your plants will let u know if they need somethin. so u might try a bacteria tea that s low on ferts. i enjoy making teas they re fun. i recycle my soil. in the 1.5 months of growing all i ve used is rainwater. in the past i would ve hit em w a veg tea by now. but since they re healthy and doing well... just water. just one way to crack this nut. good luck man


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## Beemo (Jan 8, 2016)

tea brewer... moves water like crazy....
very easy to clean.... dont have to be worried about,,,, if the air stone is clean.....


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## DonBrennon (Jan 9, 2016)

Beemo said:


> tea brewer... moves water like crazy....
> very easy to clean.... dont have to be worried about,,,, if the air stone is clean.....


I like a lot, and I'm pinching it lol. Is the tube glued down to the bottom? and if not, does it not start floating?


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## Beemo (Jan 9, 2016)

DonBrennon said:


> I like a lot, and I'm pinching it lol. Is the tube glued down to the bottom? and if not, does it not start floating?


very good observation.... 
no glue.... pressure fit...
if not fitted right... it will float...


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## BlaZerVille (Jan 25, 2016)

I have hard water at a 8.0 on ph scale I just brewed up some aact can I ph it down with GH PH down? How long can I brew it?


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## Doomhammer69 (Feb 5, 2016)

I have been reading on this a lot ( tea's) I am going organic my self this grow. However I am only running 4 plants..It works for me enough to cover over head and plenty of meds for me. Question for So once my plants are on there way in veg, I start using my teas, they will obvioulsy not be drinking a lot at that early stage, If I mix up a 5gal bucket of teas can it bubble for weeks? or will it go bad?


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## Doomhammer69 (Feb 5, 2016)

BlaZerVille said:


> I have hard water at a 8.0 on ph scale I just brewed up some aact can I ph it down with GH PH down? How long can I brew it?


Good question I too am curious, if in fact it needs to be Ph down what do we use? Ph down? will the acid hurt the tea?


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## HuntAk (Mar 12, 2016)

Dr.D81 said:


> We have the best water in the country


Actually we have the best water but I'm sure yours is good


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## natureboygrower (Mar 12, 2016)

I personally do not f with the pH of my teas.that is the point of teas,they help stabilize any pH problems in your soil.acts as a soil conditioner.I feel that yes,introducing something acidic would alter your colony.any of you more experienced brewers feel free to correct me.
I'm getting ready to build a 15 gallon vortex Brewer,any of you have any experience?I'll take any advice for sure.


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## HuntAk (Mar 12, 2016)

I totally agree and have thrown away anything to do with ph monitoring
Also I built the mini micobulator off of the 
Build a soil web site. It uses 1.5" pvc and a pump to continusly oxygenate and works really well.


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## GhostShadow (Mar 13, 2016)

Doomhammer69 said:


> Good question I too am curious, if in fact it needs to be Ph down what do we use? Ph down? will the acid hurt the tea?


The Master grower at the cultivation facility I work recommends ph ing teas. However he doesn't put the down or up str8 into the tea. HE first dilutes it in water then adds the water to the tea while stirring till he gets the proper pH.


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## HuntAk (Mar 13, 2016)

What kind of grow medium does he use at the facility? I'm just curious.


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## natureboygrower (Mar 14, 2016)

GhostShadow said:


> The Master grower at the cultivation facility I work recommends ph ing teas. However he doesn't put the down or up str8 into the tea. HE first dilutes it in water then adds the water to the tea while stirring till he gets the proper pH.


Key words,"Master Grower" .I think it's more important getting a grasp of your ingredients and what is needed as someone new to this before you start introducing pH balancers.it's info overload when first learning and it's easy to "kill em with kindness",because you thought you were helping.how far off is your pH?just reread post,it's at 8.I wouldn't mess with it personally. Have you tested after you brewed?


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## DonBrennon (Mar 14, 2016)

GhostShadow said:


> The Master grower at the cultivation facility I work recommends ph ing teas. However he doesn't put the down or up str8 into the tea. HE first dilutes it in water then adds the water to the tea while stirring till he gets the proper pH.


Did you ask him if he's ever tried it without PHing? and if so what the results were? IMO, when you grow a large number of plants like he must be doing, it must be easier to see the results of testing/experimenting with tea's


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## GhostShadow (Mar 15, 2016)

HuntAk said:


> What kind of grow medium does he use at the facility? I'm just curious.


pro mix


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## MileHighGlassPipes (Mar 23, 2016)

Been making compost tea's for a few years. Here's a brew where you can see a piece of organic matter(on the right), with a ton of bacteria bouncing off of it. The arrows are pointing to flagellates feasting on the bacteria. Nutrient cycling in action. I foliar and soil drench my tea's.


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## natureboygrower (Mar 23, 2016)

MileHighGlassPipes said:


> Been making compost tea's for a few years. Here's a brew where you can see a piece of organic matter(on the right), with a ton of bacteria bouncing off of it. The arrows are pointing to flagellates feasting on the bacteria. Nutrient cycling in action. I foliar and soil drench my tea's. View attachment 3639468


Do you foliar and soil same application? Also,how often do you water with your teas?awesome,btw


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## MileHighGlassPipes (Mar 23, 2016)

I use them once a week, sometimes ever other week. I will foliar and water the same day because I have a fresh batch made. 
Here's another one(not as clear) where you can see an amoeba center stage. It's the big blob in the middle down lower.


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## natureboygrower (May 2, 2016)

What's up everyone.can any of you recommend something beneficial in terms of let's say,bug protection to my brew?my brew is very simple right now consisting of molasses, fish fert,seaweed and compost. I'm happy with this,it seemed to work for me last season,which was my first with teas.that was in very small batches.I have made a 25g bubble Brewer for this season,and am curious to know if there is anything I can add to either help against bug infestation (I have leafhoppers)or help the plants bounce back from these attacks?


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## DonTesla (May 2, 2016)

natureboygrower said:


> What's up everyone.can any of you recommend something beneficial in terms of let's say,bug protection to my brew?my brew is very simple right now consisting of molasses, fish fert,seaweed and compost. I'm happy with this,it seemed to work for me last season,which was my first with teas.that was in very small batches.I have made a 25g bubble Brewer for this season,and am curious to know if there is anything I can add to either help against bug infestation (I have leafhoppers)or help the plants bounce back from these attacks?


No fermenting needed if u find Chitin, so plants can produce chitinase, that perky immune booster
Its in exoskeletons of crabs, shrimp and insects, and its what i'd add to a super basic tea for the last 8 hours of aeration before hitting the sweeties ..

Good on its own too without brewing, if I had frass which is a bit pricey I'd sprinkle right near the stem and water in, and for the next 5 waterings they'd pray like mad

Now I use shell crab and work it into the mix, prior, and also have chitin in the compost as well. 

However if spraying is an absolute must, avoid neem if you can, most bugs hate cinnamon, chile peppers/capsciasin (sp?), and garlic, so a lil water with that in it all you need.. MoreNatural the better , ex: use sticks not cinn powder etc, and if you're still vegging you can really get under all the leaves.. Plants have bigger stomata in their cells under the leaves vs over.

Edit: these are not tea additives, just use on their own in water .. 

Not specific to your problem but helpful to any hindered plant..for some reason they don't mind the stuff that bugs hate


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## DonTesla (May 2, 2016)

MileHighGlassPipes said:


> I use them once a week, sometimes ever other week. I will foliar and water the same day because I have a fresh batch made.
> Here's another one(not as clear) where you can see an amoeba center stage. It's the big blob in the middle down lower.View attachment 3639471


You don't get any burning with applying that often, brotha?

How much food source do you use? To Tim's specs (microbeMan)? Or weaker.. Or stronger.. I've been wanting to do a bit of microscope work. Good shit, dude, fkn aye!


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## natureboygrower (May 3, 2016)

DonTesla said:


> No fermenting needed if u find Chitin, so plants can produce chitinase, that perky immune booster
> Its in exoskeletons of crabs, shrimp and insects, and its what i'd add to a super basic tea for the last 8 hours of aeration before hitting the sweeties ..
> 
> Good on its own too without brewing, if I had frass which is a bit pricey I'd sprinkle right near the stem and water in, and for the next 5 waterings they'd pray like mad
> ...


Right on,Tesla!appreciate your quick reply.sounds like I'm on the right track,getting ready to make up a soil(buildasoils mix)and it has crab shells,oyster shells,etc.I've heard of the frass,I may try that this season.do you guys stray much from Tim's(microbeman)formula?I adhere to it myself.but here's my question, do you guys ever use those fungal or bacteria boost packs?aren't I making my brew fungal by adding my fish fert to it?those boost packs are$$$$.I'm trying to not get scammed anymore lol.already have shelf of shit I don't use lulz.


DonTesla said:


> You don't get any burning with applying that often, brotha?
> 
> How much food source do you use? To Tim's specs (microbeMan)? Or weaker.. Or stronger.. I've been wanting to do a bit of microscope work. Good shit, dude, fkn aye!


Hey Don,is it the molasses that can cause the burning?


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## Rhizosphere (May 3, 2016)

DonTesla said:


> You don't get any burning with applying that often, brotha?
> 
> How much food source do you use? To Tim's specs (microbeMan)? Or weaker.. Or stronger.. I've been wanting to do a bit of microscope work. Good shit, dude, fkn aye!


if a compost tea is burning plants its made wrong. you should be able to give them tea every day if you wanted.


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## Rhizosphere (May 3, 2016)

natureboygrower said:


> What's up everyone.can any of you recommend something beneficial in terms of let's say,bug protection to my brew?my brew is very simple right now consisting of molasses, fish fert,seaweed and compost. I'm happy with this,it seemed to work for me last season,which was my first with teas.that was in very small batches.I have made a 25g bubble Brewer for this season,and am curious to know if there is anything I can add to either help against bug infestation (I have leafhoppers)or help the plants bounce back from these attacks?


fish and seaweed is point less in a tea man you want to add things that feed the microbs not the plant. i would use earth worm castings and add a little good compost or ancient forest humus for microbs and one tablespoon of molasses for 5 gallons of water to feed the microbs organic oats,popcorn ground up or alfalfa meal are great for fugal growth. mix the seaweed and fish in the soil or just feed it straight


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## DonTesla (May 3, 2016)

natureboygrower said:


> Right on,Tesla!appreciate your quick reply.sounds like I'm on the right track,getting ready to make up a soil(buildasoils mix)and it has crab shells,oyster shells,etc.I've heard of the frass,I may try that this season.do you guys stray much from Tim's(microbeman)formula?I adhere to it myself.but here's my question, do you guys ever use those fungal or bacteria boost packs?aren't I making my brew fungal by adding my fish fert to it?those boost packs are$$$$.I'm trying to not get scammed anymore lol.already have shelf of shit I don't use lulz.
> 
> Hey Don,is it the molasses that can cause the burning?


Build a soil is great, dude, I like em as a company for some of my organic amendments that i can't get in Canada
You're def on the right track..
I'd Forget the booster packs tho.

If looking for extra boosts you can pre-innoculate a bit of soil a day or two ahead of tea time with a fungal food for example and get it furry with mycelium And toss some in to your brew.. If desired.
What's a couple TBSP of rice hulls cost? That will cause a massive fungal outbreak..
Frass meanwhile is kind of pricey but very fast and effective nonetheless, try it for yourself maybe..
I've written some informative posts on it if you want to search.

As for tim, I rock his recipe but find it a bit strong for myself, for my more sensitive and finicky sativas especially..
It might be worm diet or molasses that does that (burn), but in any event going a little weaker is never a bad thing, you can always apply another tea, but you can't unburn a tip..


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## DonTesla (May 3, 2016)

Rhizosphere said:


> if a compost tea is burning plants its made wrong. you should be able to give them tea every day if you wanted.


How can you make it wrong? If following Tim's recipe, I mean?


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## natureboygrower (May 22, 2016)

Hey guys,i built a new bubble brewer over the winter and am brewing a batch currently.im using it tomorrow on a lawn that has been totally fed by chems.i have some barely 3 week old seedlings in 4" pots.think I could give them a drink?my formula was a s followed,20 gallons h20,4tbl blacstrapp,a little fish(I thought the fungal would help with the lawn).4 cups compost/vermi.any help is appreciated.thanks


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## DonBrennon (May 22, 2016)

natureboygrower said:


> Hey guys,i built a new bubble brewer over the winter and am brewing a batch currently.im using it tomorrow on a lawn that has been totally fed by chems.i have some barely 3 week old seedlings in 4" pots.think I could give them a drink?my formula was a s followed,20 gallons h20,4tbl blacstrapp,a little fish(I thought the fungal would help with the lawn).4 cups compost/vermi.any help is appreciated.thanks


I reckon they'd love it, any harsh nutrient content should've been consumed by the micro's.........go for it


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## Twiz9491 (May 24, 2016)

Dude this is awesome thanks for starting this thread


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## natureboygrower (Jun 7, 2016)

Hey guys,
So I brewed up a batch of ewc and fed the group.straight tea,no cut.got a little bit of leaf "rolling"is this nitrogen toxicity?only a handful did it.my larger seedlings (may have hit them a little heavier with tea due to size)topped dressed with ewc a cpl days ago.any thoughts.
Ty in advance


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## High Tide (Jun 15, 2016)

Corbat420 said:


> Very nice to see. Subbed just to let everyone know.
> 
> im usualy on daily, if not every other day. i can answer alot of the questions people need answered


many aact recipes......does the final tea need to be ph'd to 6.5 I made a batch using humic acid, bs molasses, kelp, fish emulsion and worm castings............ph'd it and it is very alkaline........should i bring it to 6.5?


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## Fastslappy (Jun 18, 2016)

High Tide said:


> many aact recipes......does the final tea need to be ph'd to 6.5 I made a batch using humic acid, bs molasses, kelp, fish emulsion and worm castings............ph'd it and it is very alkaline........should i bring it to 6.5?


Anyone's opinion on PH ?????


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## backtracker (Jun 18, 2016)

natureboygrower said:


> Hey guys,
> So I brewed up a batch of ewc and fed the group.straight tea,no cut.got a little bit of leaf "rolling"is this nitrogen toxicity?only a handful did it.my larger seedlings (may have hit them a little heavier with tea due to size)topped dressed with ewc a cpl days ago.any thoughts.
> Ty in advance


are they root bound? when the leaves curl down it usually has to do with the roots, too much or not enough water or uneven watering or root bound etc.


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## AlmightyKingSpider (Jul 15, 2016)

Wonderful thread !!! I'm a 6 year experienced organic grower. I grow in Promix MP Organik. I had a question for the gang......

I recently made my own Lactobacillus. I have some in the fridge (pure) and some stored in a cool place diluted to preserve with BSM. I usually use the Lab/BSM as my microbe feed.....
Is it ok or should I eliminate the LAB and just use BSM. ? Got me some monsters that started indoor March that transitioned Outdoor June and still vegging till August. They and my garden  a good EWC+ BIO FLOR+ YUCCA+ LAB/BSM 24-48 Bubbling 50/50 Rain Water (Québec Canada)


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## Scuba-Steve (Jul 15, 2016)

This is my very first organic grow in amended soil (actually it is my first grow ever!) I'm seeing very good results so far. I've been brewing AACT for my girls every week using Tim Wilson designed 5 gallon pail airlift brewer using castings and BSM. My plants appear to be very happy afterwards


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## AlmightyKingSpider (Jul 15, 2016)

Scuba-Steve said:


> This is my very first organic grow in amended soil (actually it is my first grow ever!) I'm seeing very good results so far. I've been brewing AACT for my girls every week using Tim Wilson designed 5 gallon pail airlift brewer using castings and BSM. My plants appear to be very happy afterwards


You should read a little and apply some SST (seed sprouting tea) great on enzymes and organic. I've done Barley Alfalfa and Wheat Grass. Once blended I put in ice cube tray freeze and store in freezer. I feed organic nutes (Nature's Nectar ) next feeding : Water w/SST next feeding Compost Tea... etc.


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## Scuba-Steve (Jul 15, 2016)

I'll be looking into that now for sure! Thanks Spider


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## baronvonbud (Jul 15, 2016)

What PH do you guys water with in pro mix BX M


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## DonBrennon (Jul 15, 2016)

baronvonbud said:


> What PH do you guys water with in pro mix BX M


If you're growing organically it doesn't really matter that much, unless it is off to an extreme. I've not measured the ph of my water for over 2 years, I do know it comes out of the tap at around 7 out of experience, but when I start adding some of my home made potions and LAB it's probably quite acidic..........that's what calcium carbonate is added to the soil for though and the microorganisms should balance the ph of your soil.


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## DonBrennon (Jul 15, 2016)

Just realised I sound like a 'know all' twat when I'm full of man flu, and over medicated to compensate............I consider myself new to organics too, so shouldn't be spouting shit like I'm Elaine fookin Ingham pmsl......................on a side note, one of my guilty pleasures when I switched to organics was drifting off to sleep to the sounds of Elaine Ingham on one of her hour long rants aboout soil biology and compost, pmsl


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## baronvonbud (Jul 15, 2016)

DonBrennon said:


> If you're growing organically it doesn't really matter that much, unless it is off to an extreme. I've not measured the ph of my water for over 2 years, I do know it comes out of the tap at around 7 out of experience, but when I start adding some of my home made potions and LAB it's probably quite acidic..........that's what calcium carbonate is added to the soil for though and the microorganisms should balance the ph of your soil.


I have a recipe for a pro mix based super soil that's organic but Im using promix with some EWC and Kelp topping and feed with roots Buddha grow and Buddha bloom ( I guess that's organic but not what I'd call growing organic) and a tea once in a while. I have tons of Cal and Mg (Yes both) issues if I don't PH to 5.8-6.0 and use calimagic


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## AlmightyKingSpider (Jul 15, 2016)

For Promax MP Organic I mix in some EWC and extra Perlite. I really never ph my nutes but when I use Yellow Bottle Silica I bubble rain water with Silica 24 hours before then add my CalMag+ G.O then I Ph. In reality for years of grow (not so much) I've not ph a tea of feeding and in organics from reading Alot the soil stabilizes the ph. I don't use dolomite or use Epson salt but I do have them incase. Next step is a real organic no bottles live soil


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## DonBrennon (Jul 15, 2016)

baronvonbud said:


> I have a recipe for a pro mix based super soil that's organic but Im using promix with some EWC and Kelp topping and feed with roots Buddha grow and Buddha bloom ( I guess that's organic but not what I'd call growing organic) and a tea once in a while. I have tons of Cal and Mg (Yes both) issues if I don't PH to 5.8-6.0 and use calimagic


All lines of bottled nute's work differently, my advice would be to follow the manufacturer's advice, they test the product

Ditch the bottles next grow and ditch the idea of supersoil, unless you're using a broader sense of the term. If you're gonna build your own soil, which IMHO, is the best way to go, then follow the recipe on page 1 of the ROLS thread, I Wish I'd found that before supersoil.


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## natureboygrower (Jul 17, 2016)

Hey guys,had a couple questions for you all.first leafhoppers ,theyre on to me.ive got some frass on the way but have never used it.whats the best application? bubbling it?how long?or should I just top dress?I've only got 2 lbs on the way so top dressing would not be my first choice.i also ordered up some bokashi.im completely clueless on that one.any info would be great.also I've spotted a very minor powdery mildew on one of my plants.ive hit it with some garlic spray(pm remover)but we've had rain,so hard to keep it on.any tips on that?any info would be great.hoping you're all having a good grow.


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## backtracker (Jul 18, 2016)

natureboygrower said:


> Hey guys,had a couple questions for you all.first leafhoppers ,theyre on to me.ive got some frass on the way but have never used it.whats the best application? bubbling it?how long?or should I just top dress?I've only got 2 lbs on the way so top dressing would not be my first choice.i also ordered up some bokashi.im completely clueless on that one.any info would be great.also I've spotted a very minor powdery mildew on one of my plants.ive hit it with some garlic spray(pm remover)but we've had rain,so hard to keep it on.any tips on that?any info would be great.hoping you're all having a good grow.


Leaf hoppers use Captain Jacks Dead BUG brew, for PM use Actinovate and check to see that it is not expired and to wash of PM use The Amazing Doctor Zymes it will kill bugs to.


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## Kidbruv (Jul 29, 2016)

Just found a good read. It's a study on the effectiveness of aerated Vermicompost teas vs. Non-aerated. There's a copyright disclaimer about posting the article, so I'll respect that and just share the link here (Download the PDF):

https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Linda_Dick/publication/264725113_Vermicompost_tea_production_and_plant_growth_impacts/links/5409efe90cf2f2b29a2cc97f.pdf?origin=publication_detail


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## Kidbruv (Jul 29, 2016)

Beemo said:


> very good observation....
> no glue.... pressure fit...
> if not fitted right... it will float...


I had a brilliant (?) idea tonight while prepping my latest brew. Rather than just weighting down the hose and bubbler with a rock like usual, I just grabbed a zip tie and attached the hose to the bag containing the worm castings.

Voila! No chance of floating.


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## Fastslappy (Jul 29, 2016)

I used Horsehair tea last nite on a the only plant that has pm in my gh knocked it down quite well 
no sign of it today


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## natureboygrower (Jul 29, 2016)

Fastslappy said:


> I used Horsehair tea last nite on a the only plant that has pm in my gh knocked it down quite well
> no sign of it today


No shit?how abouts did you make it and where do I source product? love the idea


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## Fastslappy (Jul 29, 2016)

natureboygrower said:


> No shit?how abouts did you make it and where do I source product? love the idea


amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UY86BQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
brewed just like my morning tea I used full strenght on DJ Shorts Azue Haze no issues
in the morning i Used a gallon pot & 2 #4 coffee filters full of this stapled over the folded edges then threw both
into boiling water for awhile 10 mins / seeped all day , sprayed at 4pm so she could dry off Very Important !
the residue outta coffee filters went into worm farm


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## Fastslappy (Jul 30, 2016)

reporting back 2 days of spraying horsehair tea has Azue Haze PM free


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## backtracker (Jul 30, 2016)

Fastslappy said:


> reporting back 2 days of spraying horsehair tea has Azue Haze PM free


You had me going WTF horsehair? phew! it's horsetail herb, good stuff is said to increase essential oils terpins and trichromes.


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## Fastslappy (Jul 30, 2016)

backtracker said:


> You had me going WTF horsehair? phew! it's horsetail herb, good stuff is said to increase essential oils terpins and trichromes.


? I pooched the pup on the name , smoke smoke another 
`Organic Horsetail Herb (Shavegrass)
works great , nice smell


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## Rentaldog (Aug 17, 2016)

Hey everyone,

Hope this doesnt come off as stupid, or paranoid, but isnt there any concern over E. Coli or any other sicknesses associated with fecal mater when making compost teas? I've been reading up and im making a list to start my first brew in the near future, and im just trying to cover all my bases. Id hate to buy a bag of compost, do something wrong, then get (possibly fatally) sick.

Would mushroom compost be safer than manure? Is this a non-issue? Im probably overthinking things  I just dont want to get anyone sick.


----------



## natureboygrower (Aug 17, 2016)

Rentaldog said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> Hope this doesnt come off as stupid, or paranoid, but isnt there any concern over E. Coli or any other sicknesses associated with fecal mater when making compost teas? I've been reading up and im making a list to start my first brew in the near future, and im just trying to cover all my bases. Id hate to buy a bag of compost, do something wrong, then get (possibly fatally) sick.
> 
> Would mushroom compost be safer than manure? Is this a non-issue? Im probably overthinking things  I just dont want to





Rentaldog said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> Hope this doesnt come off as stupid, or paranoid, but isnt there any concern over E. Coli or any other sicknesses associated with fecal mater when making compost teas? I've been reading up and im making a list to start my first brew in the near future, and im just trying to cover all my bases. Id hate to buy a bag of compost, do something wrong, then get (possibly fatally) sick.
> 
> Would mushroom compost be safer than manure? Is this a non-issue? Im probably overthinking things  I just dont want to get anyone sick.


Hey man,welcome the tea world!I'm new to it too (2nd outdoor grow just using teas this season).nah,no problems with e.coli as long as youve got air pumping through.the old idea of just letting a bag of compost (or manure)just hang out and ferment in water with no air is when you can run into trouble.also,I use a mix of earthworm castings and compost.the pic is of my early grape plant in roughly 35gallons of soil.this plant is 6' and damn near as wide.no store bought bottled nutes for this gal,this has all been due to a soil I made up this spring and using my own teas every week.I've kept my teas very basic,worm castings and Blackstrap molasses during veg,and now that I'm in flower,I've been adding some powdered bat guano.I also plan on reusing that soil as I've got some cake put into this grow and as long as my "herd"is healthy the soil should get better over time.
Hope this helps,I'm sure some more experienced guys can point some other stuff out as well.good luck brother!
NBG


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## Rentaldog (Aug 17, 2016)

Plant looks beautiful nature, thanks for the post.

Yea, Im sure im just worrying for nothing. Most of the "research" I found online about e coli from teas were just stories heard through the grapevine, or people trying to sell me a product. Once I get things set up ill let yall know how I do, will probably just run a 5 gallon pot once a week at the start and go from there.


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## DankBudzzz (Sep 6, 2016)

Can u feed a tea without aerating it? Just curious, I have high p bat guana, blackstrap molasses, fish emulsion and seaweed fertilizer to work wit. Also I've been top dressing with a half cup of the guano every few weeks so not sure if I should put it in my tea. I was wondering if I mixed it up s few times a day and left it outside in the heat if it would work or should I just pick up a pump and Airstone?


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## Moldy (Sep 12, 2016)

malignant said:


> So there has been a bit of confusion about teas, teas are as unique as individuals brewing them. Each one unique to area, bacterial source, ratios, and needs. Different teas have different purposes.
> 
> 
> The Outdoor guys that are using organic teas for their crops have a thread that is organic in the outdoor section, here are their tea recipes and hopefully they will join in and discuss any thoughts, questions, and offer any guidance needed. Thank you everyone for your contributions, time and love of the trade.
> ...


Well thanks for the post! I'm an old nute user and have been reducing those nutes to reduce the bad taste in my herb over the years but believe I'm on the wrong path. My new grow has just started and I experimented with this mix for my seedlings. 

dirrtyd said: ↑
Looking for different teas and application rates for Outdoors. I will start with some teas that I have found while reading. 
Guano Tea and Kelp:

Seedlings less than 1 month old nute tea mix-
5 tbs. Black Strap Molasses
1-cup earthworm castings/5 gallons of water every 3rd watering

I figured I'd try the simplest blend first. I bubbled it in a DWC pot with about 3 gallons of RO and declorinated water. A cup of castings and about 2 tbl. spoons of molasses for about 48 hours @ room temp 80-90f (damn hot summer). I watered half of my seedlings with it and it really works nicely. The plants were sitting straight up and taking in nourishment. It made a big difference so thanks for your post. I'll be studying on what to add for veg and flower. I do have some Bat Quano (the high p stuff) that I plan for flowering but I've got to read up a bit so I don't kill any plants. Are there any mixes that can kill them? Sorry, but I'm really new at this. Thanks in advance.


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## natureboygrower (Sep 13, 2016)

Moldy said:


> Well thanks for the post! I'm an old nute user and have been reducing those nutes to reduce the bad taste in my herb over the years but believe I'm on the wrong path. My new grow has just started and I experimented with this mix for my seedlings.
> 
> dirrtyd said: ↑
> Looking for different teas and application rates for Outdoors. I will start with some teas that I have found while reading.
> ...


Hey moldy,I'm not an expert but hate asking questions thst don't get answered so I'll give it a shot.my advice would be to keep your tea simple.molasses (I use a tablespoon per 5gallons)and your castings or compost.that's all I used during my veg.I made my own soil the past spring so I figured introducing a "herd" would be all I would need.I also grew in 45 gallon bags too,plenty of compost so my plants never turned yellow until I started adding my bat guano (next year I want to work on this).you could also add a little fish juice or seaweed to your mix as well.I made 10 gallons weekly and stopped last week since my plants are almost done.I plan on using this same soil next year.hope this helps brother.


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## Moldy (Sep 14, 2016)

natureboygrower said:


> Hey moldy,I'm not an expert but hate asking questions thst don't get answered so I'll give it a shot.my advice would be to keep your tea simple.molasses (I use a tablespoon per 5gallons)and your castings or compost.that's all I used during my veg.I made my own soil the past spring so I figured introducing a "herd" would be all I would need.I also grew in 45 gallon bags too,plenty of compost so my plants never turned yellow until I started adding my bat guano (next year I want to work on this).you could also add a little fish juice or seaweed to your mix as well.I made 10 gallons weekly and stopped last week since my plants are almost done.I plan on using this same soil next year.hope this helps brother.


Thanks for the reply! I'm a little late on the switch from chemicals but better late... yada, yada. I'll keep it simple in beginning. I have some bat guano I'll use at flowering but I should read and learn more before I do that. Thanks again, take care.


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## Aruanda (Oct 22, 2016)

Been lurking around, reading through the first post of the OP and now I have finally read through this entire thread (took me 2+ days, lol). 

I'll share what I have been doing:

So before reading up on all this I had purchased a line of BioBizz products for my first grow (liquid ferts). I also have Stump Tea Myco and Stump Tea Veg Boost (10-0-0). I mixed up a custom made soil blend for transplant that consists of the following:

(54L in total)
30% Perlite
5.5% Vermiculite
30% SunGro Sunshine® Mix #6 (Canadian Sphagnum, dolomitic lime, long-lasting wetting agent & Si)
16.6% Vermicompost
2.7% Biochar (inoculated)
>0.5% Calcium (oyster and egg shells)

Before mixing everything up I prepared an AACT with the following:

8L double filtered water
1L EWC (homemade)
8mL kelp solution (BioBizz - Alg*A*Mic)
4oz organic brown sugar
2L Biochar
2tsp Roots Organic Uprising Grow

I brewed this for 24h, at the end of which I added some of the Stump Tea Myco and then removed the solids and biochar and added to my soil mix, mixed everything up and put into smart pots, then I thoroughly drenched the soil with the AACT and gave the rest to my other plants too. This sat for several weeks before I transplanted.


Beyond using the BioBizz and Stump Tea stuff, I've prepared a LAB culture and been using some Aloe and coconut. I'm now about to go into my second week of flowering and I had prepared a topdressing of 4L EWC, 6tbsp bone meal, 5tbsp powdered oyster shells, 3tbsp Epsom salt, and 4tsp Roots Organic Uprising Grow. My soils aren't fully amended as I have been learning as I go, wish I knew what I know now before I started, oh well.


In terms of teas, I just prepared one the other day consisting of 3.7L dechlorinated tap water (1gal), 1tbsp liquid kelp, 1/3tsp Stump Tea Veg boost, 2tsp Stump Tea Myco, 1tsp molasses and a small amount of silica powder. I added all the ingredients and stirred and aerated for 30m, then added 160mL of coconut water right before application. All plants entered into praying position but I did see the 'claw' on the mid leaves. I think the Veg Boost stuff is too strong and there's enough N in my soil for now. I didn't actively aerate/brew for very long because I'm not sure that mycos will really reproduce, and since Stump Tea also contains bacterial strains, didn't want the mycos to serve as bacteria food.

I'm currently preparing an AACT that is much simpler with the following:

6L dechlorinated tap H2O
300mL EWC
1tbsp LAB
2tsp liquid kelp (Alg*A*Mic)
2tbsp molasses
Beet juice from 1 fresh organic beet
120mL horsetail tea

I guess I should let this one go more like 36-48h on account of the kelp. I'm using a smaller air pump with air stones. It says 2.5x2L/min, whatever that means, lol.


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## madininagyal (Oct 22, 2016)

Is there somebody who tried nkf (natural korean farming)???


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## Aruanda (Oct 22, 2016)

madininagyal said:


> Is there somebody who tried nkf (natural korean farming)???


I'm getting into it. Bout to start a bokashi bran and compost bin. And harvest BIM (beneficial indigenous micro-organisms) from various ecologies w/ cooked rice.


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## AllDayToker (Nov 20, 2016)

I plan on using this recipe from the first page.

"Flowering nute tea mix:
2/3 cup Peruvian Seabird Guano
2/3 cup Earth Worm Castings
2/3 cup High P Guano (Indonesian or Jamaican)
(That makes the "dry mix". You can make all you want and save it to use later.)
5 tbs. Maxicrop 1-0-4 powdered kelp extract
5 tbs. Black Strap Molasses
@ 2 cups dry mix/5 gallons of water EVERY watering."

My girls are half way into flower. I know that guano can burn.

I want a second opinion if it would be a good idea to dilute it 50/50 with fresh water after I brew it so make sure they take it well and not burn them.


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## natureboygrower (Nov 20, 2016)

AllDayToker said:


> I plan on using this recipe from the first page.
> 
> "Flowering nute tea mix:
> 2/3 cup Peruvian Seabird Guano
> ...


not knowing how your plant is going to respond,diluting is probably a good idea.I would dilute and just see how your plant does.also,I don't know about every watering,I watered with my tea once a week. one other thing,is that 5 tablespoons molasses per 5 gallons of h20?if so,I'd dial that back.I use 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons of h20.it's hard to know your ratios mixing all your powders up beforehand,not saying it's not a good idea,it's just hard to gauge.maybe keep track of your tablespoons of each and figure that ratio to your h20 per gallon?
there are way more experienced ppl on this thread,they know more than me,just my thoughts.best of luck!


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## Brandon Nebel (May 31, 2017)

I have been using a recipe from vital earth organics. Its worked really well for me so far. Ive tweaked it a little since the beginning to add a few components i felt it was missing. Here is the original formula i started with.

.5 cup Baseline Compost Concentrate (peat humus)
.5 cup California gold humus
1 cup EWC
.5 Malibu Bu's Blend compost (cow manure base with yarrow, camomile and a few other things. 
1 Tbsp glacial rock powder (trace elements, calcium, iron, cobalt, sodium)
2 Tbsp Vital Kelp
4 Tbsp Insect Frass
4 Tbsp Vital Fish Hydroslate
2 Tbsp Vital Roots (mycorrhiza) 

I added the following on my own to tweak it a bit

2 Tbsp Unsulpured molasses
.25 Cup Bokashi (wheat bran, molasses, mineral rock salt)
1 Tsp Sea Green (3% humic acid)
.5 Cup Alfalfa meal
.5 cup soybean meal
.5 cup cotton seed meal
And then i add or subtract a guano depending on if i want to make a guano tea or not. If im making guano tea for veg i use .5 cup 9-3-1 guano and for flower i add a high p guano or sea bird guano. This has worked really well. Its a lot of ingredients but they last through at least 2 years of grows. Happy tea making.


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## DonTesla (Jun 1, 2017)

I've been using a recipe from Tim the Microbe Man, but I've tweaked it to tone it down, and round it out, I noticed burn on many sat doms following his recipe..

so now I use:

*2% total volume: diy worm compost / fungal compost *

(high humic acid content, bacterial dom, fungal dom soil prepared with fungal foods, depending on time/goals)

and 

*2-5 ml of evaporated cane juice crystals per 1000 mL tea *(organic raw, harvested same day, molasses intact, less sugar toward the end)

Of course, I do use bokashi, lacto, borage, chamomile, aloe, coconut, frass, kelp, etc etc sometimes too but usually only when I realize I didnt amend properly. With the exception of aloe, lacto, and coconut, those are staples for me.


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## BRANDON77 (Jun 23, 2017)

basic tea recipe....looking for something simple, I just received all the ingredients from amazon...if anyone has anything extra to add to it im all ears!!!!


*COMPOST TEA RECIPE (5 GALLONS)*

2 CUPS EWC

2 TBL ALFALFA MEAL

2 TBL KELP MEAL

2 TBL MOLASSES

10 ML OF DIRT M.D. HUMIC/FULVIC ACID

BUBBLE FOR 24-36 HOURS


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## Johnei (Jul 5, 2017)

I added a heaping tablespoon of Peruvian Seabird Guano pellets into a 5gallon bucket of water and watered my outdoor regular garden near my house with it. Almost emedietly there were flies EVERYWHERE! Regular flies and those big green shit flies.. Just letting you know, is this good, is this bad.. all I know is, I didn't add anything else and a P.S.G. watering and boom flies swarming above the soil/plants right there like Attack of the Killer Shit Flies!

Over'n'ouot'


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## Johnei (Jul 5, 2017)

Johnei said:


> *Veg tea*
> 
> tsp=teaspoon
> TBSP=tablespoon
> ...


Just sharing, I wrote this a while ago.


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## BRANDON77 (Jul 7, 2017)

how do my ratios look for a 36 hour bubbled tea???? 

1 CUP EWC

2 TBL KELP MEAL

1 TBL ALFALFA MEAL

1 TBL OATS

1 TBL GUANO

1 TBL MOLASSES

1 TBL LIQUID HUMIC/FULVIC


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## Johnei (Jul 7, 2017)

Assuming this is for about 4gallons or a llittle more water, It looks good, only small suggestions I can make is:
Only use 1heaping TBSP of the Kelp meal, and only 1 teaspoon of the liquid humic/fulvic for whole tea. EWC is rich in humic/fulvic substances and the extra free floating humics you add will detract the microbes from their goal, it's not really needed in the tea, or if used, in micro micro doses just to help chelate the already digested minerals at the end of the brew for plant uptake. The kelp meal just will not get broken down in this time and so much is not needed; Mixing kelp meal in soil I use 1Tablespoon/gal. soil, using in tea I use 1teaspoon/gal. in the brew. So in 4+gal. bucket brew, about a heaping tablespoon. Your tea looks good! If you want it to lean to more N or to more P, use the guanos, increasing extra tablespoon of different kinds etc.

Good growing!

-edit-Besides the EWC.. basically everything listed do 1teaspoon/gal water, except humic/fulvic; only 1teaspoon per entire tea. I think this is best.


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## BRANDON77 (Jul 7, 2017)

Yep. I use 4gal in a 5gal bucket. 

Thx!!!!


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## greyduck (Jul 26, 2017)

I built a mini microbulator brewer and am using an Elemental 571 gph pump. I was testing it out and was wondering if it was pumping out enough water to work properly. Does this look ok?

imgur.com/a/EGIz2


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## MrKnotty (Aug 10, 2017)

I gave my ladies their first comfrey tea of the season. They just flipped into flower. I just let comfrey sit in water for 3 days. Strain and dilute. Sometimes I add a little BIM to these soaks, sometimes I don't. It's quite amazing the response the plants have after this tea. Try it if you haven't, it will stay in your tea schedule I promise!


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## Hpo777 (Aug 10, 2017)

Remember to never put your AACT into metal containers! The zinc will kill the microbes!


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## Hpo777 (Aug 11, 2017)

*NEVER USE – Blackstrap molasses**** If you do some of your own reading online about compost tea brewing one of the biggest things you will run across is the recommendation to use blackstrap molasses as the microbial food in the tea. This used to be widely accepted as a great way of brewing tea. The issue is that without a firm understanding of soil biology and what microbes look like under a microscope people actually brew up anaerobic teas the majority of the time with blackstrap molasses. This is why that happens even with an air pump -- molasses is a simple sugar which feeds bacterial populations very quickly basically as junk food. As the bacterial populations grow they take over the entire tea and use up all the oxygen, this causes the tea to become anaerobic as soon as the ppm (parts per million) of dissolved oxygen drop below 8 (6ppm is the critical point). There are plenty of bacteria all over this planet and we really don’t need to brew up heavy bacterial teas, rather we want to brew up complex teas that have a huge variety of life in them, not only bacteria but also fungi, protozoa and nematodes. When you only feed simple sugars to the microbiology in the tea brewing process the bacteria will out multiply all the other good guys and take over the entire tea. We instead feed complex foods to the tea so the fungi, protozoa and nematodes have a chance to grow and multiply. If you really want to use molasses in your brewing it is highly advisable to also get yourself a microscope so you can monitor the tea and make sure you use it before it goes anaerobic. As that is not practical for most home gardeners your best bet is to follow our simple recipes for wonderful results.


Whoa...just read this...hes a dam smart man


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## 404NotFound (Nov 22, 2017)

Might be a noon question but, I have tea I've been brewing in my garage, WMC to be exact and it's been cold so I haven't had bubbles/foam. It's warmed up a little with the help of a heater near it now and I have a foam now to know something's going on, but the smell to me is a little off. So would it be good since I have activity in the container now or would it not since it doesn't quite smell earthy?


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## maxamus1 (Nov 22, 2017)

Hey guys how often are you guys doing teas and what not? This will be my fourth grow in soil an I'm not getting the results I'm wanting and the only thing I can think of is I'm not feeding em enough. BTW I'm doing a tea once a month or so.


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## MrKnotty (Nov 22, 2017)

404NotFound said:


> Might be a noon question but, I have tea I've been brewing in my garage, WMC to be exact and it's been cold so I haven't had bubbles/foam. It's warmed up a little with the help of a heater near it now and I have a foam now to know something's going on, but the smell to me is a little off. So would it be good since I have activity in the container now or would it not since it doesn't quite smell earthy?


Having bubbles or foam is not the mark of a great tea just a heads up. It's a good thing to have, but not having your tea foam up isn't a big deal. Now if you think the smell of your tea is off than that is something to worry about. Unfortunately there is no way for someone to really tell you if it's still good. That's going to have to be a gut call by you. Foul smells though usually equate to something you want to toss.


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## 404NotFound (Nov 22, 2017)

MrKnotty said:


> Having bubbles or foam is not the mark of a great tea just a heads up. It's a good thing to have, but not having your tea foam up isn't a big deal. Now if you think the smell of your tea is off than that is something to worry about. Unfortunately there is no way for someone to really tell you if it's still good. That's going to have to be a gut call by you. Foul smells though usually equate to something you want to toss.



I appreciate the input man. I'll go with my gut and restart over.


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## Robert "Bob" Dobbs (Nov 22, 2017)

Basically just follow this and dont overthink anything. Microbes dont give a fuck about anything but oxygen and sugars to multiply. You wanna hit 36 hours so all of the protozoa hatch from their cists and you have a healthy mixture of fungi, bacteria and protozoa. you will spend more money on additives than you need if you dont keep it simple. 

TL;DR: 

4 gal RO water
2 cups vermicompost/
5.5 tablespoons blackstrap molasses.

take it from the man who knows whats up:






interview w/ microbeman:


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## Moldy (Nov 28, 2017)

So one person says use molasses and another says not so fast. Being new to this organic thing can be confusing but still I do appreciate the information. Just finishing up my first organic (no salts) grow and fairly happy with the results. I had some deficiencies I had to correct but I'm sold on the initial results.


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## RandomHero8913 (Nov 29, 2017)

Moldy said:


> So one person says use molasses and another says not so fast. Being new to this organic thing can be confusing but still I do appreciate the information. Just finishing up my first organic (no salts) grow and fairly happy with the results. I had some deficiencies I had to correct but I'm sold on the initial results.


You’re safer to not use compost teas unless you can tell the amount of dissolved oxygen and keep them at the correct level.
A much safer and beneficial route is to just topdress the compost. If you’re adding some nutrients sprinkle that on top before you add the compost and just water it in. 

Teas are fun in the beginning but I ended up getting tired of cleaning out buckets and pumps, and top dressing gave the same results.


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## Fastslappy (Nov 29, 2017)

RandomHero8913 said:


> You’re safer to not use compost teas unless you can tell the amount of dissolved oxygen and keep them at the correct level.
> A much safer and beneficial route is to just topdress the compost. If you’re adding some nutrients sprinkle that on top before you add the compost and just water it in.
> 
> Teas are fun in the beginning but I ended up getting tired of cleaning out buckets and pumps, and top dressing gave the same results.


I agree it's allot a work , I only use sst , rarely brew a tea , unless. I want to kick start the beni life in a used soil .


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## natureboygrower (Nov 29, 2017)

RandomHero8913 said:


> Teas are fun in the beginning but I ended up getting tired of cleaning out buckets and pumps, and top dressing gave the same results.


could not agree with you more.


Fastslappy said:


> I agree it's allot a work , I only use sst , rarely brew a tea , unless. I want to kick start the beni life in a used soil .


i need to read up on SST's.when you re-use a soil,will you add ewc or just use a tea?


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## Fastslappy (Nov 29, 2017)

natureboygrower said:


> could not agree with you more.
> 
> i need to read up on SST's.when you re-use a soil,will you add ewc or just use a tea?


I reuse flowered out soil for teens ,vegging ,seedlings ,I jump start it with a tea if it's dried out


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## Fastslappy (Nov 29, 2017)

I would topdress too ewc kelp , neem , malted corn flour


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## natureboygrower (Nov 29, 2017)

Fastslappy said:


> I would topdress too ewc kelp , neem , malted corn flour


thatd be for your veg recycled soil,correct?have you ever used tennesse brown phosphate? pretty slow release i believe so im not sure how to incorporate that into my flower soil.i suppose let it sit


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## MrKnotty (Nov 29, 2017)

Sst is the jam, I pretty much always have seeds sprouting during the season. I love compost teas too though, but I don't use them nearly as much as the SSTs. However, the last month of flower I really like to hit the ladies with compost tea that I "spike" with my homemade fungal flats. It really helps with the uptake of phosphorous in my opinion.

Peace


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## Fastslappy (Nov 30, 2017)

natureboygrower said:


> thatd be for your veg recycled soil,correct?have you ever used tennesse brown phosphate? pretty slow release i believe so im not sure how to incorporate that into my flower soil.i suppose let it sit


I quit using , use marine inputs Coot's mix don't call for it


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## Jimmyjonestoo (Dec 27, 2017)

How long can i keep a tea brewing? Just getting into them and am only brewing my 2nd batch. Tried to time it out with what I thought was going to be watering time but the pots aren't quite dry yet. Today is day 3 of it brewing. Will it be ok to use in 12 hours when I get home from work? Doesn't smell bad at all.


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## natureboygrower (Dec 27, 2017)

Jimmyjonestoo said:


> How long can i keep a tea brewing? Just getting into them and am only brewing my 2nd batch. Tried to time it out with what I thought was going to be watering time but the pots aren't quite dry yet. Today is day 3 of it brewing. Will it be ok to use in 12 hours when I get home from work? Doesn't smell bad at all.


hey bro,3 days sounds a little long.for compost/ewc teas i usually would shoot for the 36-42 hour brew time mark.i do believe ive read you can fridge it for a few hours if you had to,i could be wrong.
i used to brew teas weekly for my outdoor,but have reconsidered/replaced my ewc teas for just dry amendments scratched into the surface.steamed fish meal is a good one for flowering,but that's just the tip of the iceberg.dry amendments are something i plan on researching and to learn more about over the winter,as well as sst feedings.
a lot of ppl are using ewc teas to jumpstart a dried out soil or to rejuvenate a soil that has sat for awhile.


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## Jimmyjonestoo (Dec 27, 2017)

I kinda figured it was a little long. I'll try and time it out better next time. Thanks.


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## DOOZY (Jan 25, 2018)

I am doing brown cane sugar ,kelp, ewc, 1/4 bannana blended ,fish hydrolosate . beginning of bloom first 4 weeks. Also corn / barley sprout teas. Neem meal top dress. On coco. Dropping hydrolosate to finish next 4 weeks.
Under 315w cmh.


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## DOOZY (Feb 7, 2018)

Few days out. Stinking house up.


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## YescaLove (Feb 14, 2018)

Quick question. Ive taken a handfull of year old chicken dook... My free range flock... Tossed it into a bucket and threw in some yard waste compost thats been going for a few years... Added some hot water and threw in the pump. Am i fixin to give myself and or plants salmonella or e.coli? Or is this a safe seeming batch to put on plants. Not cannabis but my veggies i started for this season coming.


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## lokie (Mar 4, 2018)

Just getting started in organics and Aact teas.

I put about a gallon of rabbit manure, about 1/2 gallon of EWC and about 4 cups of
incest frass in 5 gal of water.
Bubbled it for 48 hours, stirred 3 times while bubbling. Strained all solids out.

How long will it keep? I don't need 5 gal all at once.
So now I have 4 gal of 2300 PPM manure tea sitting on my porch.

How long can it sit before it is not worthy of using on my vegging plants?

Thanks


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## ANC (Mar 4, 2018)

Use it in the rest of the garden it is best used quickly.
It is good to start planning your spring garden now, putting out compost and mulch, maybe sow a few seeds like lettuce or other crops that like to pop up as winter breaks.

I wouldn't bother steeping the tea more than 24 hours, you pretty much reach as much multiplication as you are going to, by then.


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## lokie (Mar 6, 2018)

ANC said:


> Use it in the rest of the garden it is best used quickly.
> It is good to start planning your spring garden now, putting out compost and mulch, maybe sow a few seeds like lettuce or other crops that like to pop up as winter breaks.
> 
> I wouldn't bother steeping the tea more than 24 hours, you pretty much reach as much multiplication as you are going to, by then.


How long before it is detrimental to the garden, when does it become toxic?
Using it on lettuce or other veggies is not a problem they need nutrients too,
however they are not my primary concern.

If compost is used years after it is started what is the urgency to use a tea hours after it is
bubbled? If brewed today will it be effective next week? next month?
Is there a shelf life where nutrient tea is no longer beneficial to use?

I don't question your input, I just want to understand the process.


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## Sunzen (Mar 6, 2018)

Hey all, thought this would be the best place to ask a question rather than starting a new thread. I've made many compost teas for my grows but never did a deep clean on my system. I poured a decent amount of bleach in the bucket filled it up and put all my tools in there. Couple hours later everything was spotless took everything and rinsed it out real well but the bag that the organics sits in still had a hint of bleach in the scent. Think I'm still good to use it?

Love and peace

Edit: I also let the water aerate for 3 hours before adding the organics


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## madininagyal (Mar 6, 2018)

Sunzen said:


> Hey all, thought this would be the best place to ask a question rather than starting a new thread. I've made many compost teas for my grows but never did a deep clean on my system. I poured a decent amount of bleach in the bucket filled it up and put all my tools in there. Couple hours later everything was spotless took everything and rinsed it out real well but the bag that the organics sits in still had a hint of bleach in the scent. Think I'm still good to use it?
> 
> Love and peace
> 
> Edit: I also let the water aerate for 3 hours before adding the organics


If it tap water, aerate at least 12h 

I prefer h2o2 for cleaning bleach always leave chemical residual


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## Sunzen (Mar 7, 2018)

madininagyal said:


> If it tap water, aerate at least 12h
> 
> I prefer h2o2 for cleaning bleach always leave chemical residual


Yeah bleach is some nasty stuff. So the tea could potentially be shot than ah?


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## madininagyal (Mar 7, 2018)

Sunzen said:


> Yeah bleach is some nasty stuff. So the tea could potentially be shot than ah?


Yes if it still got the bleach smell there a big chance


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## Sunzen (Mar 7, 2018)

madininagyal said:


> Yes if it still got the bleach smell there a big chance


Bust as long as there's a healthy amount of foam on the top I'm good right? Also thank you for your help I appreciate you


----------



## RandomHero8913 (Mar 8, 2018)

Sunzen said:


> Bust as long as there's a healthy amount of foam on the top I'm good right? Also thank you for your help I appreciate you


Nope. Foam isn’t a sign of a good tea, just a sign of surfactants.


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## Sunzen (Mar 8, 2018)

I decided to trash it not risking it. Thanks again friends goodluck with all your grows


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## Sunzen (Mar 13, 2018)

After rinsing the bag a lot more and getting rid of the smell almost completely I've brewed another. Best indication without a microscope is smell to deem if its good or not correct? Thanks


----------



## ganglyguy420 (Apr 13, 2018)

Hey what size air pump is used for a 5 gallon bucket brewer should I get a 951 GPM or would around 500 GPM be sufficient?


----------



## lokie (Apr 13, 2018)

ganglyguy420 said:


> Hey what size air pump is used for a 5 gallon bucket brewer should I get a 951 GPM or would around 500 GPM be sufficient?


If it is only for brewing the tea just a small pump from a local pet supply or wally world should do.

Less than $10 and you would be good to go.


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## SCJedi (Jun 3, 2018)

Here is a 300 gallon recipe I use for veg tea. I also phase it back for smaller brewers.

Ph water to 7
2 shovels digested manure 
20c compost local
8c worm castings 
8c arctic humus
8c diatomic humate
2c seaweed (powdered)
2c neem seed meal 
1c feather meal
4c PBP veg (or some other broad based, organic veg fert)
2 tbls Superthrive
4-6c fish emulsion liq.
2c micorhizae 

Brew w/active aeration for no more than 24hrs

I foliar a some then dump and water in the tea once a week.


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## Go go n chill (Jun 11, 2018)

I got a question. Down To Earth’s organic ALL PURPOSE..... the company says you can’t steep it in a Tea AND that nearly all of it is insoluble.
Last night I put 1tbls in a gallon of water the ppm was 169 this morning it was almost 400ppm. Anyone have insight?


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## Go go n chill (Jun 14, 2018)

Go go n chill said:


> I got a question. Down To Earth’s organic ALL PURPOSE..... the company says you can’t steep it in a Tea AND that nearly all of it is insoluble.
> Last night I put 1tbls in a gallon of water the ppm was 169 this morning it was almost 400ppm. Anyone have insight?


Well anyway I checked the PPM again 24hrs later and it was 709. It smelled like poison BUT my girls loved it


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## SCJedi (Jun 14, 2018)

Most of what I use is made by DTE but there's better out there. My girls still love it and top watering sprouts my clover


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## Go go n chill (Jun 15, 2018)

SCJedi said:


> Most of what I use is made by DTE but there's better out there. My girls still love it and top watering sprouts my clover


I’ve covered the tops of my soil with sand to ward off fungus gnats. So top dressings isn’t an option. Have you noticed the smell of poison I’m speaki of @SCJedi ?


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## SCJedi (Jun 15, 2018)

No, are you aerating it?


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## Go go n chill (Jun 15, 2018)

SCJedi said:


> No, are you aerating it?


No I didn’t. I emailed DTE and one of their reps said that the DTE line of solid organics could not be used to brew teas and he of course pointed me in the direction of their liquid nutrients line. 
So I placed a tbls of their ALL PURPOSE meal into a gallon of water. It seemed to work, i’m just always skeptical when people suggest I buy something else . But I must say I like their customer service the rep that emailed me is always quick to respond I don’t think anything he did with malicious


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## SCJedi (Jun 15, 2018)

Unless you are doing KNF FPJ then aerate your teas! You most likely ended up with anaerobic bacteria which stunk and may really be poisonous to your plants. 

AACT, in the title of the thread stands for actively aerated compost teas.


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## Go go n chill (Jun 15, 2018)

SCJedi said:


> Unless you are doing KNF FPJ then aerate your teas! You most likely ended up with anaerobic bacteria which stunk and may really be poisonous to your plants.
> 
> AACT, in the title of the thread stands for actively aerated compost teas.


KNF FPJ?
It stunk like that within 6 hrs


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## Go go n chill (Jun 15, 2018)

SCJedi said:


> Unless you are doing KNF FPJ then aerate your teas! You most likely ended up with anaerobic bacteria which stunk and may really be poisonous to your plants.
> 
> AACT, in the title of the thread stands for actively aerated compost teas.


It had like an insecticide smell


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## SCJedi (Jun 15, 2018)

Go go n chill said:


> It had like an insecticide smell


Did you use neem seed meal?

I know what, why don't you post what you put in it to stop me from guessing?

Fermented plant juice FPJ is a product made as part of Korean natural farming. KNF.

It sounds like you may have some general reading to do. I would recommend Teaming with Microbes


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## Go go n chill (Jun 15, 2018)

SCJedi said:


> Did you use neem seed meal?
> 
> I know what, why don't you post what you put in it to stop me from guessing?
> 
> ...


Here
https://www.downtoearthfertilizer.com/products/blended_fertilizer/all-purpose-4-6-2/


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## Go go n chill (Jun 15, 2018)

SCJedi said:


> Did you use neem seed meal?
> 
> I know what, why don't you post what you put in it to stop me from guessing?
> 
> ...


Well I’m not awfully worried about it, it is just plant . I’m here for the fun of it


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## SCJedi (Jun 15, 2018)

I don't really worry either, it's all good. 

I wouldn't brew the dry all purpose into a tea unless the box tells you too. It's probably meant to be mixed directly into the soil and won't break down as fast in a water jug.

How did your plants take it?


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## Go go n chill (Jun 16, 2018)

So far so good, week 6 of flower
King Tut and Blueberry, they went 10 weeks in flower last time.... idk they are doing ok I haven’t killed them yet. Learning as I go... read some grow some try this try that


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## Miyagismokes (Jun 18, 2018)

SCJedi said:


> diatomic humate


What the devil is this?
I'm familiar with humic acid, and passingly aware of humates, but diatomic humates?


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## SCJedi (Jun 18, 2018)

Diatomic humates by Biodiversity Products.


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## MrKnotty (Jun 22, 2018)

Go go n chill said:


> Here
> https://www.downtoearthfertilizer.com/products/blended_fertilizer/all-purpose-4-6-2/


The link didn't work for me, but if there is neem seed in the ingredients, it will smell like vomit or death when made into a tea.


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## Go go n chill (Jun 23, 2018)

MrKnotty said:


> The link didn't work for me, but if there is neem seed in the ingredients, it will smell like vomit or death when made into a tea.


No neem in it. I’ve got neem oil in my stock of goodies and that isn’t the smell. It didn’t hurt the plants at all but I probably wouldn’t mix it with water again...... I’ll find other solutions . Thx for the help man. Week 7 of flower


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## Maineahh (Jun 23, 2018)

Has anyone used dragonfly earth medicine?if so have you used the radiant green?


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## SCJedi (Jun 24, 2018)

Maineahh said:


> Has anyone used dragonfly earth medicine?if so have you used the radiant green?


I have not used it but it is on my "Try it" list. 

I originally heard it from this Potcast with Duke Diamond VA. At the very end he is asked for a product endorsement. One thing he couldn't live without and he mentions the Dragonfly Earth Medicine. You can FFW to 2h:37m:35s and here his comments. It is a pretty hearty, genuine endorsement.

https://soundcloud.com/user-928350579-16614181/episode-1-duke-diamond-va-of-brothers-grimm


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## SageFromZen (Jul 23, 2018)

SCJedi said:


> I have not used it but it is on my "Try it" list.
> 
> I originally heard it from this Potcast with Duke Diamond VA. At the very end he is asked for a product endorsement. One thing he couldn't live without and he mentions the Dragonfly Earth Medicine. You can FFW to 2h:37m:35s and here his comments. It is a pretty hearty, genuine endorsement.
> 
> https://soundcloud.com/user-928350579-16614181/episode-1-duke-diamond-va-of-brothers-grimm


Go to the Emerald Cup. Hit the Dragonfly Earth Medicine booth for freebies! I have used Radiant Green but not as an AACT as it was intended. I've used Brilliant Black also.

It's just that I make my own permie accumulator teas so I'm already pretty much doing what DFEM do only they've got dried ingredients ready for use and I'm using the fresh leaves of the same dynamic accumulators they are.

Edit: Depending on what's growing near you-you should be able to go for a hike and collect the leaves of stinging nettle; mallow; comfrey; horsetail; yarrow; milk vetch; Fill a 5 gallon bucket with all of the above, cut and bruise the leaves with a pair of garden sheers and add pure water till the bucket is half full and let it sit un-aerated for two weeks stirring every few days. Then strainer-out the remaining vegetable matter and save the juice. Apply at a rate of 1 to 10 parts to pure water.


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## Miyagismokes (Jul 23, 2018)

SageFromZen said:


> milk vetch


Specifically? What about peas?


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## SageFromZen (Jul 23, 2018)

Miyagismokes said:


> Specifically? What about peas?


Here is a fine little list that should help:

https://permies.com/t/19885/list-dynamic-accumulators-minerals-accumulate


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## HarvesterPdx (Jul 27, 2018)

Here's my vegg recipe, which today I incorporated some phos' guano, azomite and cal mag to the recipe because most of my plants are in pre-flower. Question: How do I use Bragg's Amino Acids? Is this to be plain watered with or can I add it inti the tea? I brew 60 gallons of tea.

2 gallons water in 5 gallon bucket with air stones + pump, this recipe below is to be mixed with 2 gallons of water.
VEGG RECIPE:
Tbspn Molasses
Tbspn Kelp Meal
Tbspn Neem Seed Meal
Tbspn All Purpose Fertilizer
2 tspns Nitro Liquid Fish
tspn Humic Acid
2 tspns Nitro Bat Guano
tspn Oyster Shell Powder
tspn Liquid Kelp
Brew for one day then add 1 cup of earth worm castings per 2 gallons. Brew for 3 days total. DONOT add anything to tea. Keep cool in hot temperatures. Strain and Feed.


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## J.James (Aug 23, 2018)

Has anyone tried the New Terp Teas From the Roots Organics line / Aurora Innovations? If so what did you think about the results? What else did you add to the tea for Veg and Bloom?


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## Maineahh (Sep 4, 2018)

Just wondering if anyone has fish bone meal tea recipe.or uses it in a recipe. I think some of my girls have a good of a phosphorus deficiency right now early in flowering. I'm using a beginners organic soil mix and I think maybe the plants are a little too big and have used up what nutrients I have in soil. Just started giving them fat flowers from dragonfly Earth medicine. But thought I'd give them a little more of a kick by adding some fish bone meal to the Tea.


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## J.James (Sep 4, 2018)

Maineahh said:


> Just wondering if anyone has fish bone meal tea recipe.or uses it in a recipe. I think some of my girls have a good of a phosphorus deficiency right now early in flowering. I'm using a beginners organic soil mix and I think maybe the plants are a little too big and have used up what nutrients I have in soil. Just started giving them fat flowers from dragonfly Earth medicine. But thought I'd give them a little more of a kick by adding some fish bone meal to the Tea.


I add Happy Frog steamed bone meal 3-15 -0 and Down to earth fish bone meal 3 -16-0 to all my bloom teas, 1/2 Teaspoon of both per gal of brew

Edit - I'd like to add that its best I find to brew that for 48 hours and watch your TDS


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## MrKnotty (Sep 9, 2018)

@DonTesla I've seen a few people putting fishbone meal in their teas on this thread. I was wondering what your opinion on that is? Does it make the Phosphorus readily available to the plant or is it a waste of time. Hope all is well!

Peace


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## DonTesla (Sep 10, 2018)

MrKnotty said:


> @DonTesla I've seen a few people putting fishbone meal in their teas on this thread. I was wondering what your opinion on that is? Does it make the Phosphorus readily available to the plant or is it a waste of time. Hope all is well!
> 
> Peace


Hey MK, all is well, thank you, best to you as well..

hmm, pretty nasty, imo, stink up the place why don't we, haha ah, jk.

Yah, maybe for some its not bad, outdoors it be a little different.. smells aren't trapped for one, but for me, more of a quality specialist vs yield specialist, that likes to KIS, and keep that burn _ultra_ smooth.. I hate see ppl under-building their soil, taking little short cuts here and there, then fast forward to fearful disappointment, and the ensuing correcting later, often over-reacting and over-complicating teas.. 
If we care so much, let's just build better soil! .. or adjust the recipe accordingly for next time..

I think if we focus on quality full spectrum composts, both bacterial and fungal, and larger more proper pot sizes too, then teas and soil drenches can become an after thought.. I think teas could be gotten away from altogether tbh, great for a beginner approach / more reactive style.. but, forget ph swings, and burnt tips, the true fun (and beauty, for me) lies in a proactive style and a more water-only approach.. creating an environment where the plant can lead, and express, and unlock hidden traits, in a zen state.

Too much P, you burn hot on the tongue, you burn black, you hinder the bene myco-infections, and so on..

I rather, like to focus on microbes and fungals in the latter stages, and let _them_ work harder, extrapolating _inherent_ P..still stuck in the ground.. in short, apparent P problems should first be solved with a balanced food web, cause often it WILL fix said "P problem"..

So, that said, I _do_ believe in 'pre-fungal-boosting' or growing fungi on tea food prior to bubbling, to boost the teas fungal numbers, that is, _if_ no Full Spectrum (FS) compost is available- and I do still use FBM in about half my recipes, albeit in much lower numbers nowadays- but yes, I have omitted it from my tea game, personally, due to more endearing ideals.


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## pollen205 (Feb 18, 2019)

Is IT dangerues to brew aact indoor for health..worm cast and bat bacteria Are they hazard for your health if you brew say in you bedrom where you sleep?


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## ShLUbY (Feb 18, 2019)

pollen205 said:


> Is IT dangerues to brew aact indoor for health..worm cast and bat bacteria Are they hazard for your health if you brew say in you bedrom where you sleep?


If your tea brewing process is proper (meaning it's aerobic like it should be), then not at all. Be sure to avoid brewing teas with guanos in them. There is potential of harm if guano is involved.


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## pollen205 (Feb 18, 2019)

ShLUbY said:


> If your tea brewing process is proper (meaning it's aerobic like it should be), then not at all. Be sure to avoid brewing teas with guanos in them. There is potential of harm if guano is involved.


When you say proper brewing process does that mean that air pump is on all the time to not become anareobic or what
Thank you shluby.


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## charface (Feb 18, 2019)

Here is my 02 on batshit in your bedroom. 

I wouldn't mix it in there because the dust will float around. 

Once mixed i would be ok aerating it there.

I would bleach or otherwise sterilize the area where that shit splashed. 

Might even plastic the area where it will be so cleanup is easier.


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## ShLUbY (Feb 18, 2019)

pollen205 said:


> When you say proper brewing process does that mean that air pump is on all the time to not become anareobic or what
> Thank you shluby.


yes. and you have to have A LOT of bubbling for this to happen. a little bubble will not do the job.


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## IIReignManII (Mar 20, 2019)

If I bubbled a tea for three days and it just smelled like aquarium fish tank water, not stinky/foul or rotten and had lots of nice little scummy globs all throughout it...that means I did good right? lol...I've got an airstone/pump setup made for a 10 gallon fish tank and I've been bubbling 2.5 gallons of tea at a time then diluting that to 5 gallons


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## ShLUbY (Mar 21, 2019)

IIReignManII said:


> If I bubbled a tea for three days and it just smelled like aquarium fish tank water, not stinky/foul or rotten and had lots of nice little scummy globs all throughout it...that means I did good right? lol...I've got an airstone/pump setup made for a 10 gallon fish tank and I've been bubbling 2.5 gallons of tea at a time then diluting that to 5 gallons


3 days is typically way too long. microbes have likely gone dormant from either lack of O2 or build up of waste products in the tea. typically you should bubble no more than 48 hours... but if you brew in a warmer room (70+) then I'd say no more than 36 hours.


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## SoMe_EfFin_MasS_HoLe (Apr 5, 2019)

Hello everyone, I'm new to the complete organic way of growing. Last run was with organic bottles but that's just hogwash & not truly being organic imo. So my question is this, does anyone use the water after they boil or steam their vegetables to water their plants or make teas? I tried to find things online but when I search (using water from broccoli to water cannabis) all kinds of crazy unrelated things pop up. Obviously we use veggies in compost, but what about the water after boiling or steaming? Take it easy on me I'm still learning the true organic way. I usually use the water to make soup but with spring and summer here no more soup. I hate to waste such nutrient rich h2o, I hate to waste anything really.


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## AlmightyKingSpider (Apr 6, 2019)

SoMe_EfFin_MasS_HoLe said:


> Hello everyone, I'm new to the complete organic way of growing. Last run was with organic bottles but that's just hogwash & not truly being organic imo. So my question is this, does anyone use the water after they boil or steam their vegetables to water their plants or make teas? I tried to find things online but when I search (using water from broccoli to water cannabis) all kinds of crazy unrelated things pop up. Obviously we use veggies in compost, but what about the water after boiling or steaming? Take it easy on me I'm still learning the true organic way. I usually use the water to make soup but with spring and summer here no more soup. I hate to waste such nutrient rich h2o, I hate to waste anything really.


I used it all the time in my teas, from broccoli water to squash to green beans. Not sure he right benefits but I would think it is beneficial to the beanies. I also would like to know so I'll bump this question too


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## SoMe_EfFin_MasS_HoLe (Apr 6, 2019)

AlmightyKingSpider said:


> I used it all the time in my teas, from broccoli water to squash to green beans. Not sure he right benefits but I would think it is beneficial to the beanies. I also would like to know so I'll bump this question too


So I assume you never had issues with your plants after? I would think it would be a good source of nutrients. I hardly think it will do damage too the beneficials. Broccoli has a huge amount of potassium in it as well as a good amount of magnesium. I've used the water in my vegetable garden in the past and the plants seemed very receptive too it. I'm just not sure how it will affect cannabis. I dont think it will harm them. I'm in a small space with only 3 plants. That's the crap part about micro grows, no room for trial & error or experimentation. Obviously one could fool around and see, but when you're in a small space you really only have one shot to get it right. Some people have the room and a good number of plants to experiment with. I dont, so I'm wary of what could possibly happen. Thanks for bumping this question! hopefully we will both learn something.


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## outliergenetix (May 21, 2019)

tea recipes aside i would like to add the incredible benefit of using the water you cook food with in your soil and/or teas. cpl examples here would be:
- hard boiling eggs leaves soluble calcium in the residual water this is a mild solution, you may also break up the shells and add vinegar and wait till it stops fizzing cpl hours or a day later to get allot more calcium, but this is very concentrated
- pasta and potato water after bpoiling. the starch is a great source of microbe food in general. i would add aquafaba from cooking/soaking dried beans here, but there are serious smell issue if you make a tea or use to much with this. that said it has allot of sulfur which is nice if you wanna use it late in flower as sulfur makes weeb smell stronger imo
- spinach water after boiling. after cooking leafy greens like spinach the water has allot of iron and potassium in it and can also be used to supppliment soil or plants.
- used coffee grounds are slightly acidic and create an acid creating bacteria in soils, also high in nitrogen. i am also fairly certain i read plants also respond to caffein similar to how we do, it 'energizes' them
- limes, fresh squeezed into water. if you are lucky enough to live somewhere you can get large bags of limes cheap like me then you can forgo filtering for chloramines mostly. i find the amount of limes,1 in my case is enough to dechlorinate and ph 5-7 gallons of water for a day or so not to mention adding sugars for microbes and other benefits. i don't use ph down or filtration i use only limes

*** not a food but i round out the egg shell thing with langbenite for my own natural cal/mag . it also contains sulfur and potash in high amounts

i wanted to point out i was only refering to by products that i can use immediately to water plants or make a tea, the purpose here is not about enriching compost or what foods add what benefoits as they compost or become castings. we all kinda know this, but i never really see man ppl mentioning using the water from dinner when thyew boil veggies etc...

WASTE NOTHING IF POSIBLE FOLKS, IT IS OUR JOBS AS CAREGIVERS FOR THE EARTH TO STOP AND THINK BEFORE WE POUR STUFF DOWN THE SINK DRAIN
heck you can even fertilize with your own piss smell free if you add the right bacteria/microbe culture to the urine. this is how a porto potty would handle smell partly. i forget the specific microbes needed t assure the urea/amonia is converted but your pee once processed this way is an excellent odor free full spectrum fertilizer. and no i don't piss into my cannabis plants lol, but it is possible should you want to, just treat it first with the bacteria/microbes that eat the urea and convert the amonia smell


----------



## lokie (May 21, 2019)

outliergenetix said:


> tea recipes aside i would like to add the incredible benefit of using the water you cook food with in your soil and/or teas. cpl examples here would be:
> - hard boiling eggs leaves soluble calcium in the residual water this is a mild solution, you may also break up the shells and add vinegar and wait till it stops fizzing cpl hours or a day later to get allot more calcium, but this is very concentrated
> - pasta and potato water after bpoiling. the starch is a great source of microbe food in general
> - spinach water after boiling. after cooking leafy greens like spinach the water has allot of iron and potassium in it and can also be used to supppliment soil or plants.
> ...


Agreed. 

Do you think there is any value to be gained by a mild solution of yeast?





Not recommended for the weak or timid gardner.


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## outliergenetix (May 21, 2019)

lokie said:


> Agreed.
> 
> Do you think there is any value to be gained by a mild solution of yeast?
> 
> ...


lol what is that pic? is that a real thing?
here are two good links about yeast benefits:
https://www.hunker.com/13428268/positive-uses-of-yeast-in-the-garden
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0038071710003718


----------



## JavaCo (May 21, 2019)

lokie said:


> Agreed.
> 
> Do you think there is any value to be gained by a mild solution of yeast?
> 
> ...


Thats awesome you don't even have to chew to get a nice dose of ass cancer causing water now days, lazy humans will be really happy. https://www.cancer.org/latest-news/world-health-organization-says-processed-meat-causes-cancer.html


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## Colacody (Jul 2, 2019)

Hey guys. Question about this tea thing. First off....first time growing anything. Have 2 tomatoes 1 jalapeno and 2 cannabis. Gorilla glue and durban poison. All outside up here in Canada,Ontario. In pro mix HP with a natural fish fertilizer 5-1-1. 

I read that putting banana peels and egg shells and 1 table spoon of Epsom salts in a gallon of water and letting sit for a few days will help to release the nutrients into the water. The egg shells is calcium Epsom salts is for magnesium and banana peels obviously for potassium and other nutrients. I'm trying to add some calcium and magnesium to the soil along with the fish to make a nutrient rich soil. Thoughts on the blend? 

I want to make a soil for the next time hopefully indoors by Novemeber and really love learning about fertilizing our little babies with natural stuff instead of chems. Any suggestions are appreciated


----------



## Timothypaul26 (Jul 3, 2019)

You cant go wrong with egg shells. They are great for calcium and a lot of trace elements. However, if you dont properly kill off any selminila that might be hanging around, you'll introduce that to your plants. Need to bake them for some time, usually around 180F for 45 mins does the trick. Also when making teas, its key to keep O2 in there to keep from going anaerobic. I like to add the shells to the soil, but adding some to your tea will help make it available quicker should you be experiencing deficiencies. And you'll want to grind them into a powder. Word of warning, if you use your significant others blender and the container is plastic it WILL fog it up. She may be a little peeved next time she uses it. I limit my tea brewing to no more than 48 hours, most cases for me 24 hours. If it smells bad, keep it away from your plants. Bananas are a good flower amendment, and can even grind the peels. Dont go too crazy with the epsom salts. You should be rocking with that mix.


----------



## Colacody (Jul 3, 2019)

Timothypaul26 said:


> You cant go wrong with egg shells. They are great for calcium and a lot of trace elements. However, if you dont properly kill off any selminila that might be hanging around, you'll introduce that to your plants. Need to bake them for some time, usually around 180F for 45 mins does the trick. Also when making teas, its key to keep O2 in there to keep from going anaerobic. I like to add the shells to the soil, but adding some to your tea will help make it available quicker should you be experiencing deficiencies. And you'll want to grind them into a powder. Word of warning, if you use your significant others blender and the container is plastic it WILL fog it up. She may be a little peeved next time she uses it. I limit my tea brewing to no more than 48 hours, most cases for me 24 hours. If it smells bad, keep it away from your plants. Bananas are a good flower amendment, and can even grind the peels. Dont go too crazy with the epsom salts. You should be rocking with that mix.


Nice man good to hear! Too late for salmonella poison.....I used it yesterday lol they were all fresh eggs tho. Only left it for 2 days. I took the rest of the reminents and put it into the new soil... just put my Durban poison into a 30gal fabric pot. Hoping she shoots for the stars lol. Banana peels and egg shells should help it out a little with what's left from them. 

Now....the tea had bubbles and was foamy at the top and there was pressure from the gas... is this normal? And by keeping 02 in there what do you mean? I've never made this stuff before and ya my wife thinks this shit is DISGUSTING lol

And ya the epsom salts is very small amount and only adding it MAYBE once a month with the mix. 

The gorilla glue is SUPER happy with just fish fertilizer right now but what can I maybe do when flowering....just ground banana peels and fish fert or is there any other veggies or fruits I can recycle in there?

Thanks for all the help. Loving the RIU forum!


----------



## malignant (Jul 21, 2019)

outliergenetix said:


> tea recipes aside i would like to add the incredible benefit of using the water you cook food with in your soil and/or teas. cpl examples here would be:
> - hard boiling eggs leaves soluble calcium in the residual water this is a mild solution, you may also break up the shells and add vinegar and wait till it stops fizzing cpl hours or a day later to get allot more calcium, but this is very concentrated
> - pasta and potato water after bpoiling. the starch is a great source of microbe food in general. i would add aquafaba from cooking/soaking dried beans here, but there are serious smell issue if you make a tea or use to much with this. that said it has allot of sulfur which is nice if you wanna use it late in flower as sulfur makes weeb smell stronger imo
> - spinach water after boiling. after cooking leafy greens like spinach the water has allot of iron and potassium in it and can also be used to supppliment soil or plants.
> ...


I love it, i usually just compost that water, but why wait? Great idea!


----------



## Patsfball4466 (Jul 28, 2019)

I grow in coco coir. I recently started adding mung bean and popcorn sst to my canna coco a and b. Anybody know if this is helpful? Could I cut out the canna a and b?


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## FresnoFarmer (Aug 10, 2019)

Veg and Pest/Disease Defense Tea 

Ingredients are per 15 gallons of water

3 cups alfalfa meal
1.5 cups kelp meal
1.5 cups neem meal
1.5 cups crab/lobster shell meal
0.5 cup humid/fulvic acid liquid supplemental 
No molasses! This is not a microbe tea. This tea is more for the extraction of PGR's.

Brew time: 2-7 days depending on ambient temp. The hotter it is the shorter it will take to bring the Brew to a finish. The longer you leave it the stronger it gets.

Strain and spray brew undiluted while wearing clothes you don't mind staining and getting super stinky. It's a good idea to spray at a time when you know you're going to shower right after haha. You will notice results almost immediately from a foliar spray.

Soil drench at a ratio of 1:1 diluted with fresh RO or non-chlorinated tap water.

When finished dump the remaining organic matter into outdoor garden or onto mulch of vegging plants and gently rake in with your fingers without disturbing roots. 

This one is ready and going on its 3rd day.


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## nOizE16 (Aug 31, 2019)

Corbat420 said:


> per 5 gallons water:
> 15 Ml bat guano (N)
> 1/2 cup EWC
> 15 ML wood ash
> ...


Dude isn't Maxibloom a salt?


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## Craigson (Sep 11, 2019)

hyroot said:


> you mean 0.3 grams per watt. You need to veg to get high numbers. 12/12 from seed at most will get you 1.5 zips per plant in 3 gals. on average, 20 - 25 grams per plant


Dude, ppl are pulling 112g/sq ft.
Im running GMO now and its absolutely amazing. Clones vegged 2-3wks are about to pull over an oz


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## hyroot (Sep 15, 2019)

Craigson said:


> Dude, ppl are pulling 112g/sq ft.
> Im running GMO now and its absolutely amazing. Clones vegged 2-3wks are about to pull over an oz



12/12 from seed is not at all the same as growing from clone.

Seeds always take a month longer veg time than clones to get ro the same size

No one is pulling a quarter pound per square foot. You just said one xlone vegged 3 weeks pulls over an oz. That will take up over a square foot.


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## Craigson (Sep 16, 2019)

hyroot said:


> 12/12 from seed is not at all the same as growing from clone.
> 
> Seeds always take a month longer veg time than clones to get ro the same size
> 
> No one is pulling a quarter pound per square foot. You just said one xlone vegged 3 weeks pulls over an oz. That will take up over a square foot.


Growing 4clones per sq ft.


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## FresnoFarmer (Sep 22, 2019)

FresnoFarmer said:


> Veg and Pest/Disease Defense Tea
> 
> Ingredients are per 15 gallons of water
> 
> ...


I bumped it up to 12 cups alfalfa pellets and 3/4 cup humic/fulvic acid. This one is without the crab and neem meal. Been bubbling for about 12 hrs.


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## chex1111 (Jan 7, 2020)

Corbat420 said:


> Heres a little fact for you thats been known around the forum... i was one of teh first people on here to bring the organic's section to life, why? Because i am an expert in the subject..... i was trained and educated at the Vancouver island university in the _Horticultural Technician program. _i was one of the first people in Modern organics to start breaking rules that people were seen as "taboo" such as using MEAT as a fertilizer (we use fish, why not others?) And Using Organic ester's of Phosphoric acid to produce Viable Organic Fertilizers.... i've Worked for major corporations helping develop fertalizer regime's AND before i had my degree i helped the University Of Montana develop their Nutrient management program.... http://landresources.montana.edu/nm/
> 
> P.S: This isn't the 1950's and Microscopes are CHEAP.... seriously, $300 (1 Oz)... http://www.ebay.com/itm/40X-2000X-LED-Digital-Binocular-Compound-Microscope-with-3D-Stage-USB-Imager-/200841810689
> 
> ...


Why did you pick krill?


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## DankDave420 (Feb 7, 2020)

I want to do AACT to compliment my all purpose organic bloom fertilizer. If I'm starting with just EWC, kelp meal, and molasses, what would I add for a PK boost in mid to late flowering?
I am thinking langbeinite and high P guano. Are these OK in AACT? Does this combo sound good for late flower?

Is there a good free source that explains individual ingredients in depth?

And I have a full bottle of Humboldt Honey Natural, would this be acceptable to use in an AACT? If nothing else just so I don't waste it and have to buy more carbs.


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## FresnoFarmer (Feb 8, 2020)

DankDave420 said:


> I want to do AACT to compliment my all purpose organic bloom fertilizer. If I'm starting with just EWC, kelp meal, and molasses, what would I add for a PK boost in mid to late flowering?
> I am thinking langbeinite and high P guano. Are these OK in AACT? Does this combo sound good for late flower?
> 
> Is there a good free source that explains individual ingredients in depth?
> ...


I would use only ewc and molasses in the aact. And make a separate nutrient tea with some high guano and kelp meal added into the mix for a pk boost.


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## FresnoFarmer (Feb 8, 2020)

DankDave420 said:


> Is there a good free source that explains individual ingredients in depth?











The Ultimate Compost Tea Guide


I’ve written this guide to help give an overview of how to make aerated compost teas properly using information that has been researched and microscope-tested, and based on my 10 years of knowledge in this industry. You can download a .pdf version by clicking here. What Is Aerated Compost Tea...




www.kisorganics.com










Organic NPK values | The Nutrient Company


aka The NPK value of everything organic, is the totally [un]comprehensive database of organic compost and fertiliser NPK values. Absolute Manure!




thenutrientcompany.com


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## DankDave420 (Feb 8, 2020)

FresnoFarmer said:


> The Ultimate Compost Tea Guide
> 
> 
> I’ve written this guide to help give an overview of how to make aerated compost teas properly using information that has been researched and microscope-tested, and based on my 10 years of knowledge in this industry. You can download a .pdf version by clicking here. What Is Aerated Compost Tea...
> ...


Very nice thanks! I finally placed my orders today to go full organic and ROLS. This site is so helpful! Thanks grow heroes!


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## NewEnglandFarmer (Aug 18, 2020)

Cool thread. I'm wondering if Tennessee Brown Rock is water soluble--was thinking of adding this for phosphorus in a tea for flowering. I added TBR as a soil amendment at the start of the year and as a topdressing mid-way through veg., but now wondering if I put it in tea if it would be immediately available to the plants.

Thanks.


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## natureboygrower (Aug 18, 2020)

NewEnglandFarmer said:


> Cool thread. I'm wondering if Tennessee Brown Rock is water soluble--was thinking of adding this for phosphorus in a tea for flowering. I added TBR as a soil amendment at the start of the year and as a topdressing mid-way through veg., but now wondering if I put it in tea if it would be immediately available to the plants.
> 
> Thanks.


I've got a bag of that. I haven't used it much because I cant find any info on application rates. I believe I read somewhere a little goes a long ways. Where have you heard of it? What prompted you to buy it? I was talked into it years ago when I was still listening to the grow shop employees. 

I now use fish bone meal for phosphorus.


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## NewEnglandFarmer (Aug 18, 2020)

My wife had a bag of it from years ago. I researched it before using and it, popular with organic farmers and heavy in phosphorus and calcium. Will try and get more data on application rates. As a soil amendment I just went with my soil report's recommendations in terms of pounds per thousand square feet and did the math, using the percentage of phosphorus listed on the bag (it was high--32 as I recall).


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## natureboygrower (Aug 18, 2020)

NewEnglandFarmer said:


> My wife had a bag of it from years ago. I researched it before using and it, popular with organic farmers and heavy in phosphorus and calcium. Will try and get more data on application rates. As a soil amendment I just went with my soil report's recommendations in terms of pounds per thousand square feet and did the math, using the percentage of phosphorus listed on the bag (it was high--32 as I recall).


I just found 300-500 lbs to an acre. Seems like a lot. I suppose one could break that down to a square/yd/foot.


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## Madmike79 (Nov 25, 2020)

Hi just wondered if I could get a little help.
I am making a tea containing the following- stingy nettles,moss,spinach leaves and compost (homemade).
The compost is a mix of kitchen waste,grass,leaves, old crop roots nettles and horse manure.
My question is how long can I keep this brewing and once I add it to my feed schedule diluted of course how long before it's no good.
I am new to organics and am loving it best of all it costs little when you have everything you need outside and not in a store.
Here is a few pics of how first organic is going.

The one on back right I fimmed at third node, One at back in middle I have defoliated and the rest I have done lst they are all Louis macrons.
The small pot in the front center is some sort of Thai strain


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## J.James (Nov 25, 2020)

According to the most recent _Compost Tea Brewing Manual_ (5th edition) by Dr. Elaine Ingham, the key to extending the life of your tea lies in the amount of available oxygen and food. That is, if you can't use all of your compost tea immediately after brewing, keep aerating it and consider adding *small* amounts of food after 2-3 days. If you want to get technical, we recommended that you use a meter to monitor dissolved oxygen levels. You want to make sure these levels stay above 6ppm.

If the microorganisms in your compost tea have adequate oxygen and food, they will continue to survive. BUT, and that's a big but, this can't go on for long... 

How Long Does Compost Tea Keep? (compostjunkie.com)


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## Madmike79 (Dec 4, 2020)

Hi everyone just brewed my first tea, it contains spinich,nettles,comfrey, TSP of mollasses,brown sugar and honey.
I have brewed it for 24hrs and used 1litre tea to 7 litres of water with 15ml of seaweed extracts and will use the rest in 72 hrs (next feed). Plants have started 2nd week in to flower.with being in flower should I apply the tea every feed or every other.
Plants are in a homemade compost,peat and perlite mix under a 250hps this run is a compost test and to see if new cross will have picked up the French macrons Hermie trait , hope not but we will see in next 2-4 weeks. Any information on hippie teas is appriciated.


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## Madmike79 (Dec 4, 2020)

Corbat420 said:


> People dont eat Cow manure ethier, Yet we know how good it is for growing plants.... Hmmm.... Also, Guano's and Manures Pastureize themselves. its a well known fact that poop heats up as it degrades, when in large piles it pasturizes its self when turned.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Totally agree with there being a massive dumbing down of society.
It's what we in the UK call the snowflake generation. Too busy with heads stuck in computers indoors rather than getting out and getting dirty I remember a time when we didn't have mobile phone and internet. You actually had to go out and find shit, Google has made life to easy which means we is getting soft hell my nieces and nephews can't even climb a flipping tree.


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## Leeski (Dec 4, 2020)

Madmike79 said:


> Totally agree with there being a massive dumbing down of society.
> It's what we in the UK call the snowflake generation. Too busy with heads stuck in computers indoors rather than getting out and getting dirty I remember a time when we didn't have mobile phone and internet. You actually had to go out and find shit, Google has made life to easy which means we is getting soft hell my nieces and nephews can't even climb a flipping tree.


 totally agree my step son is 17 years old we had a fox in our garden so I called him to come take a look quietly he was like wow didn’t know we had foxes in the U.K. then off he goes back to his Xbox think it’s so sad


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## Leeski (Dec 4, 2020)

Madmike79 said:


> Hi everyone just brewed my first tea, it contains spinich,nettles,comfrey, TSP of mollasses,brown sugar and honey.
> I have brewed it for 24hrs and used 1litre tea to 7 litres of water with 15ml of seaweed extracts and will use the rest in 72 hrs (next feed). Plants have started 2nd week in to flower.View attachment 4759272with being in flower should I apply the tea every feed or every other.
> Plants are in a homemade compost,peat and perlite mix under a 250hps this run is a compost test and to see if new cross will have picked up the French macrons Hermie trait , hope not but we will see in next 2-4 weeks. Any information on hippie teas is appriciated.


With your comfrey and nettles you would get more out of them by steeping them in a bucket for a couple of months


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## Madmike79 (Dec 4, 2020)

Leeski said:


> With your comfrey and nettles you would get more out of them by steeping them in a bucket for a couple of months


Would that be


Leeski said:


> With your comfrey and nettles you would get more out of them by steeping them in a bucket for a couple of months


By steeping them is this done in water and leave it to go like mulch will do for next one but am two weeks in to flower so not possible this time. I have added nettles and comfrey to my composting heap as well for next time, I decided to go organic because am tired of buying weed from people using chem feeds (nothing wrong with chem feeds have used in the past it's a personal choice.)
I am quite amazed how easy organic growing is once you have your basics sorted the rest is simple and with a little extra help from the more experienced growers on this site you can achieve your goals.


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## Leeski (Dec 4, 2020)

Yes just fill a bucket with comfrey leaves and fill with water you can chop comfrey up which will speed the process up a little put a lid on as it stinks like the death 
With your latest brew you could top dress with the left over leaves also take a look into worms and ewc as they are key to organic growing imo


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## Madmike79 (Dec 4, 2020)

Leeski said:


> Yes just fill a bucket with comfrey leaves and fill with water you can chop comfrey up which will speed the process up a little put a lid on as it stinks like the death
> With your latest brew you could top dress with the left over leaves also take a look into worms and ewc as they are key to organic growing imo


I am top dressing with compost which contains kitchen fruit and veg waste,grass,leaves,old grow bits,horse manure,nettles, comfrey,spinich leaves and a shit load of worms been building compost for year and a half before using it worms are of abundance in compost and even end up in grow room. Brewing the tea was to give extra boost to microbes in soil as trying to go full on no cost (bar electric). Once I use the tea again in a day or two will top dress with compost and the contents of the tea bag and any brew left will throw on to compost.


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## Leeski (Dec 4, 2020)

Aact is best to boost Biology imo my recipe is 4 cups fresh worm shit out of my worm bin 2 cups of my own compost brew for 17hrs I only add molasses if I wanna keep it active longer 
My sst is malted barley and popcorn veg then drop barley in bloom and replace with mung beans 
I top dress with worm shit 
Also use cover crops to boost nitrogen in veg and first 3wks bloom (stretch)


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## Madmike79 (Dec 4, 2020)

Leeski said:


> Aact is best to boost Biology imo my recipe is 4 cups fresh worm shit out of my worm bin 2 cups of my own compost brew for 17hrs I only add molasses if I wanna keep it active longer
> My sst is malted barley and popcorn veg then drop barley in bloom and replace with mung beans
> I top dress with worm shit
> Also use cover crops to boost nitrogen in veg and first 3wks bloom (stretch)


So instead of having worms work through my compost bin I should set up a worm bin as well am still learning what is aact am new to organics never heard of mung beans hence reason have gone hippie style with spinach and nettles which are a good source for flowering. You say you use cover crops to boost nitrogen am interested in knowing more about this. I have heard you can use baking soda and white vinegar to give them a boost something to do with the chemical reaction when vinegar hits the baking soda but again massive learning curve is organics and am totally enjoying the change.


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## Leeski (Dec 4, 2020)

Aact = Actively Aerated compost tea 
Sst = sprouted seed tea 
You don’t have to have a worm bin/wormery you can buy both worms and worm shit but think the Quality is nowhere near as good as your own fresh worm shit.
Also with your own Worm bin you Have control over what you feed your worms Hence better castings 
Some great organic farmers on here 
Also great vids pod casts on YouTube search coots build a soil,kis organics,Chris trump knf ,Joshua steensland be warned when you put your head in the rabbits hole it’s hard to get out I’m completely obsessed with organic and Korean natural farming techniques


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## Madmike79 (Dec 4, 2020)

Leeski said:


> Aact = Actively Aerated compost tea
> Sst = sprouted seed tea
> You don’t have to have a worm bin/wormery you can buy both worms and worm shit but think the Quality is nowhere near as good as your own fresh worm shit.
> Also with your own Worm bin you Have control over what you feed your worms Hence better castings
> ...


Well down the rabbit hole I go thank you for your input it's appriciated.


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## living gardening (Mar 16, 2021)

Leeski said:


> Aact = Actively Aerated compost tea
> Sst = sprouted seed tea
> You don’t have to have a worm bin/wormery you can buy both worms and worm shit but think the Quality is nowhere near as good as your own fresh worm shit.
> Also with your own Worm bin you Have control over what you feed your worms Hence better castings
> ...


Same boat but not into the KNF club yet. I have to go from one to 250 outdoors and try to scale up on virgin soil. KNF seems like it would take a fair amount of time to make the different components needed. Also KNF seems to rely on sugars to produce the amendments. I don't have many local sources of sugars should the supply chain break down or things become too expensive to just buy. Trying to keep things limited to what I can produce to control my costs and dependence on outside suppliers (I can grow popcorn, barley, oats, ect.).
Not sayin anything bad about KNF, it just sounds very involved.


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## PinkZeppelin420 (Apr 21, 2021)

Guys, do we have to make 3+ gallon teas? I've only got 2 plants and don't need big amounts of it. What happens if i brew just a single gallon of aerated tea?


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## SCJedi (Apr 22, 2021)

PinkZeppelin420 said:


> Guys, do we have to make 3+ gallon teas? I've only got 2 plants and don't need big amounts of it. What happens if i brew just a single gallon of aerated tea?


Nothing wrong with that at all. The 27g batches I make for indoors are scaled down from a 300-gallon outdoor recipe.


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## Medskunk (Apr 22, 2021)

SCJedi said:


> ....are scaled down from a 300-gallon outdoor recipe.


I love those numbers  im hoping one day


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## PinkZeppelin420 (Apr 22, 2021)

SCJedi said:


> Nothing wrong with that at all. The 27g batches I make for indoors are scaled down from a 300-gallon outdoor recipe.


Thanks man, i am brewing one right now and it smells delicious, i bet my plants are going to love it.


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## DOMSWOOZ (Apr 29, 2021)

SCJedi said:


> Nothing wrong with that at all. The 27g batches I make for indoors are scaled down from a 300-gallon outdoor recipe.


Hey is it possible that you have that original 300g out door recipe im getting back into the swing of things. Very interested in going full organic if i can on this next outdoor grow. Plus I've missed a few seasons and would like to do something different this time around.


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## DOMSWOOZ (Apr 29, 2021)

Madmike79 said:


> Well down the rabbit hole I go thank you for your input it's appriciated.


same...


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## SCJedi (Apr 30, 2021)

DOMSWOOZ said:


> Hey is it possible that you have that original 300g out door recipe im getting back into the swing of things. Very interested in going full organic if i can on this next outdoor grow. Plus I've missed a few seasons and would like to do something different this time around.








AACT, Bloom Tea, Veg Tea, Fungal Tea, Myco Tea, recipes from the outdoor guys.


If it tap water, aerate at least 12h I prefer h2o2 for cleaning bleach always leave chemical residual Yeah bleach is some nasty stuff. So the tea could potentially be shot than ah?



www.rollitup.org


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