# 1000w vert room question



## rickymac21 (Oct 22, 2014)

So as the title says ill be using a single 1000w hps for the flower room. 

My question is kind of complicated, or detailed rather. 
Anyways i want to know whats the best foot print size for a vert room using a 1000w.
Heres some things you need to know.
~ the flower room ceiling maxes out At 4.5' ft.
~ the strains being used are indica dominant.
~ the 1000w will be in a cooltube. Not bare bulb.

That seems like the most important info at the moment. But my idea was to fit between 8 and 12 topped plants vegged to around 24"-32" then flipped. I need the girls to be big enough to reach the ceiling of the room to use all available light, but at the same time not overcrowd the room. Nor do i want a room too large to where,my ladies fit but they are so far from the bulb they produce larf.

Any suggestions? This will be my first room ive built specifically for vert so id like to avoid rebuilding.


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## ttystikk (Oct 23, 2014)

First, get used to rebuilding. Besides, every time you do it, you learn something and make your grow better, so what's to be afraid of?

Second, put reflective materials on the ceiling and just beneath the plants- and above the soil/hydro substrate level. You want that light on the plants.

Third, lose the cool tube. Put a fan inside facing directly upward, blown at medium speed. Blow it upwards right next to the lamp, not at it, and up between plants to avoid wind burn. You'll get a nice turnover of air, carrying the heat of a single bulb away nicely. The cool tube is a layer of shit between filament and buds you don't need- so don't use it.

Sounds good so far- good luck!


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## rickymac21 (Oct 24, 2014)

ttystikk said:


> First, get used to rebuilding. Besides, every time you do it, you learn something and make your grow better, so what's to be afraid of?
> 
> Second, put reflective materials on the ceiling and just beneath the plants- and above the soil/hydro substrate level. You want that light on the plants.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tips ... 
As for the idea of losing the cooltube, my room is only going to be around 125~160 cubic ft total. And it will be sealed since im using co2. Running 1000w barebulb with no AC in a room that small, and no exhaust, might get a little too hot. So for now i think the cool tube is necessary...


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## m4s73r (Oct 30, 2014)

yeah no. First off with a room that small with 1000w, Sealed is not the way to go Even with co2. You will always be fighting heat issues, humidity issues and with that lessthencool tube lumen losses. Making this way more complicated then it needs to be. That cool tube is just a light block and you will still have heat issues. Now if it was barebulb in a 5x5x4.5 room with a 6 inch fan above the bulb sucking air and blowing into a carbon filter then you will do 2 things, vent heat, and change out the air. Not a fan of co2 in small grows where air exchange can be done. Now if you were running a 20x20x8 room with 5 1000 watt lights and AC then co2 can work well in the cost and efficiency. But for what your doing, a $135 for a 6"fan filter combo from Amazon, done.


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## rickymac21 (Nov 1, 2014)

m4s73r said:


> yeah no. First off with a room that small with 1000w, Sealed is not the way to go Even with co2. You will always be fighting heat issues, humidity issues and with that lessthencool tube lumen losses. Making this way more complicated then it needs to be. That cool tube is just a light block and you will still have heat issues. Now if it was barebulb in a 5x5x4.5 room with a 6 inch fan above the bulb sucking air and blowing into a carbon filter then you will do 2 things, vent heat, and change out the air. Not a fan of co2 in small grows where air exchange can be done. Now if you were running a 20x20x8 room with 5 1000 watt lights and AC then co2 can work well in the cost and efficiency. But for what your doing, a $135 for a 6"fan filter combo from Amazon, done.


Im not sure i understand. How would a barebulb with the fan over top remove more heat than a cooltube? The room is in the basement where the ambient temp is always between 60~70... 
Even if the temp reached 85, the use of co2 would only make the ladies flourish more. The humidity might be an issue but ill have to see where its at once everything is in place. But a simple ventilation system on a timer could take care of that. 
That said i would consider barebulb but i just feel i need an ac for that


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## Flagg420 (Nov 2, 2014)

your system will cool the 1000w bulb, but in a sealed system that small, the grow area itself will become a veggie steamer. I agree w/ the above posters, go w/ exhaust n fresh air intake over co2 enrichment. Sure its not as rich in CO2, but its never ever low in it either, and the temps are controlled.

Rock a grow or two with cool tubes for yourself, and then get a junk wing reflector w/ a small fan blowing at it, compare the grows. I did. I have 2 cool tubes for sale BTW....

Sometimes we humans just have to prove it to ourselves before we can believe it. IT WORKS FINE.... it just wont ever work amazingly.... that curved sheet of glass rapes your light...


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## m4s73r (Nov 2, 2014)

rickymac21 said:


> Im not sure i understand. How would a barebulb with the fan over top remove more heat than a cooltube? The room is in the basement where the ambient temp is always between 60~70...
> Even if the temp reached 85, the use of co2 would only make the ladies flourish more. The humidity might be an issue but ill have to see where its at once everything is in place. But a simple ventilation system on a timer could take care of that.
> That said i would consider barebulb but i just feel i need an ac for that


The idea is to exhaust the heat before it radiates into the room. By hanging the bulb bare only the glass of the bulb retains heat. By having a fan sucking air right above the bulb it will suck the hot air right out as hot air naturally rises. the little fan on the floor on low speed blowing up helps that natural rise of heat to the fan. Creating a column of air. 
Im not saying a cool tube wouldnt work. It will. But if your trying to Maximize your growing space cool tubes are inefficient. And its not just the cool tube that will retain heat, all that aluminum ducting, retains heat, the co2 makes heat, and a 6 inch duct fan will also. (im assuming your doing a burner). And all this is inside the sealed room. well over 12 hours it starts to warm up in there. now you need ac to bring the temps back down. 
Yes in a sealed environment you would want to have co2. but heres the thing, why not get your room to the best environment you can. you have a outside ambient of 60-70, thats awesome, why not use that and maintain a 72f room that your plants will suck your nuts over. Kiss this man. Keep it simple stupid. I wish i had a ambient 60s, id have some purple ass shit going on. 

anyway, these are just my opinions. I am a passionate cheap lazy grower. I only grow for myself and family and make no profit. GL on your grow, hope to see a grow journal.


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## rickymac21 (Nov 2, 2014)

m4s73r said:


> The idea is to exhaust the heat before it radiates into the room. By hanging the bulb bare only the glass of the bulb retains heat. By having a fan sucking air right above the bulb it will suck the hot air right out as hot air naturally rises. the little fan on the floor on low speed blowing up helps that natural rise of heat to the fan. Creating a column of air.
> Im not saying a cool tube wouldnt work. It will. But if your trying to Maximize your growing space cool tubes are inefficient. And its not just the cool tube that will retain heat, all that aluminum ducting, retains heat, the co2 makes heat, and a 6 inch duct fan will also. (im assuming your doing a burner). And all this is inside the sealed room. well over 12 hours it starts to warm up in there. now you need ac to bring the temps back down.
> Yes in a sealed environment you would want to have co2. but heres the thing, why not get your room to the best environment you can. you have a outside ambient of 60-70, thats awesome, why not use that and maintain a 72f room that your plants will suck your nuts over. Kiss this man. Keep it simple stupid. I wish i had a ambient 60s, id have some purple ass shit going on.
> 
> anyway, these are just my opinions. I am a passionate cheap lazy grower. I only grow for myself and family and make no profit. GL on your grow, hope to see a grow journal.


I can see how what your telling me would work.. Its just hard seeing the extra lumens of a barebulb and no co2, outperforming a co2 enroched room. Ive used many different reflectors, one of which being a cooltube. I got my largest harvest while using a cooltube. Granite the yeild was still rookie numbers... That said, ill probably try to run your way first with barebulb and air exchange, but ill probably end up buolding a second room to do a comparison. I think co2 would more than make up for the loss of light from the cooltube.


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## rickymac21 (Nov 2, 2014)

Just for kicks lets make a pros and cons list of each design.

Bare bulb with ventilation

Pros
~more useable light
~consistent enviroment conditions due to fresh air coming in and out.

Cons
~plants need to be further from bulb to reduce,chance of heat stress.
~the use of co2 becomes obselite due to air being romed from room.

Cooltube 

Pros
~plants can be closer to bulb
~co2 can be used 
~the temp would be slightly lower.

Cons
~light is lost through glass
~humidity may beocme issue in a sealed room that small.


I am sorry to keep argueing your advice, especially since ill probably use it. Just trying to make a decision. 
I already bought my co2 controller, tank and regulator, so i wanted to use it. 
Would it be beneficial to maybe have the vebt above the barebulb on a controller to kick on when temps reach over 85? Then whenever the exhaust fan isnt running i can have the co2 running. Or would i just be wasting too much co2 since the room isnt sealed ?


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## m4s73r (Nov 2, 2014)

I mean, thats up to you. Yes you could run your fan on a thermostat timer. I think that the first couple of times you have to go fill that co2 tank the idea of the co2 will be lost lol. But at least I see now why you want to go c02, you already spent money. But if you want that fan to kick on when it reaches 85, your hitting the max temp of your grow room. So your environment will constantly be in a state of temperature flux. from 75-85. How long will that room last before the fan kicks on to vent. Im guessing 20 min to a half hour. So you'll run your fan for 15 min, kicks off, co2 kicks on and runs for 20 min, then your fan comes back on and suck out all your co2. Or you just run the fan to at 1/3rd speed all the time and your room stays 76f always.

As for the cool tube being a pro for lower temps, if you look at some old grows back when Heath Robinson first started the 600 watt stadium build, he and other started out with a cool tube. It made sense. Then some guy got on and showed a very similar build that was barebulb. Heaths following stadium was a barebulb. He comments on how much easier it was to regulate the temp in his space because he was able to exchange the air from the whole room with out having to run his fan on high because of all the missing ducting and what not and he had lower temps. However, he was in a 8x8x8 room if i remember correctly.

Keep in mind most of this i read about years ago which is why when i made the switch from t5 to hps, i went straight to bare bulb so i didnt have to spend money on a hood. If you have the cool tube set it up and run it both ways and compare for yourself. But i think you will decide to sell that co2 system, cool tube, and ducting. lol So another con to your list of sealed, MORE $$$$$$$$$$

Feel free to argue your point. I love debate. As long as you dont get offended, ill argue till the buds bloom.


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## rickymac21 (Nov 2, 2014)

m4s73r said:


> I mean, thats up to you. Yes you could run your fan on a thermostat timer. I think that the first couple of times you have to go fill that co2 tank the idea of the co2 will be lost lol. But at least I see now why you want to go c02, you already spent money. But if you want that fan to kick on when it reaches 85, your hitting the max temp of your grow room. So your environment will constantly be in a state of temperature flux. from 75-85. How long will that room last before the fan kicks on to vent. Im guessing 20 min to a half hour. So you'll run your fan for 15 min, kicks off, co2 kicks on and runs for 20 min, then your fan comes back on and suck out all your co2. Or you just run the fan to at 1/3rd speed all the time and your room stays 76f always.
> 
> As for the cool tube being a pro for lower temps, if you look at some old grows back when Heath Robinson first started the 600 watt stadium build, he and other started out with a cool tube. It made sense. Then some guy got on and showed a very similar build that was barebulb. Heaths following stadium was a barebulb. He comments on how much easier it was to regulate the temp in his space because he was able to exchange the air from the whole room with out having to run his fan on high because of all the missing ducting and what not and he had lower temps. However, he was in a 8x8x8 room if i remember correctly.
> 
> ...


Yea very solid point. I've been reading other threads on the barebulb vs cooltube subject ALL DAY. And really i think i might as well go bare bulb. Ill give it a shot anyways. Ill just make the room slightly larger in length and width. Maybe 7'x7'. But whats a healthy distance to keep the girls from the light? Being vertical and no glass i really have no idea. .


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## ttystikk (Nov 2, 2014)

Run your girls 30-36" from a vertical bare thousand watt bulb.

The sad truth is that having done sealed and vented grows, I found that it does not remove as much heat as it does light. Therefore, it's a game of chasing a diminishing return. No bueno.


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## m4s73r (Nov 3, 2014)

are you going to lst, scrog, just let it grow, those things can also play a factor. If you scrog, id run my screen 24 inches from the bulb, if your going to just let it grow, then 30-36 is proly better.

Edit if there is one thing I would suggest, run it for 12 hours with out any plants in it. I had no idea what i was getting into going from t5 to hps. so thats what i did. I had like 6 thermometers, one next to the bulb, 3 every 12 inches away from it, one in the top of the room and one at the bottom.


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## MrMeanGreen (Nov 3, 2014)

Every inch counts with regards to 'distance to bulb' and light quality. The degradation in light quality will be far higher moving your canopy 18" further away from the bulb than using a cool tube and being 18" closer.

I also defy anybody to do an idoor vertical summer grow with 1200w+ bare bulb without AC. I am talking summer where ambient temps are 25+. The heat control with cool tubes both summer and winter wins it for me hands down, my plants love being 12"-18" from bulbs.


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## ttystikk (Nov 3, 2014)

The guy above is absolutely right. Here's the implication, however;

Five feet in diameter by four feet tall = pi times 5 times four = 15.7 x 4 = 62.8 ft² I used four foot fence panels, so my circumference was exactly sixteen feet, and a diameter of 5'1", for 64 ft².

Go with an eighteen inch diameter circle like the gentleman purpose with the cool tube and see what happens to your total surface area;

3' x pi = 9.42 times four feet tall = 37.68 ft². The cool tube approach lights just over HALF the surface area.

Still think cool tubes are the way to go?


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## rickymac21 (Nov 3, 2014)

m4s73r said:


> are you going to lst, scrog, just let it grow, those things can also play a factor. If you scrog, id run my screen 24 inches from the bulb, if your going to just let it grow, then 30-36 is proly better.
> 
> Edit if there is one thing I would suggest, run it for 12 hours with out any plants in it. I had no idea what i was getting into going from t5 to hps. so thats what i did. I had like 6 thermometers, one next to the bulb, 3 every 12 inches away from it, one in the top of the room and one at the bottom.


Im not worried about the bulb. Ive been growing with hps since the start. Just not a 1000w yet.. Anyways, ill probably build a trellis for each individual plant and scrog them that way. Just so i can take the plant out and work on it if need be.


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## m4s73r (Nov 3, 2014)

ttystikk said:


> The guy above is absolutely right. Here's the implication, however;
> 
> Five feet in diameter by four feet tall = pi times 5 times four = 15.7 x 4 = 62.8 ft² I used four foot fence panels, so my circumference was exactly sixteen feet, and a diameter of 5'1", for 64 ft².
> 
> ...


Effing math and its math-ness


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## rickymac21 (Nov 3, 2014)

I guess what it comes down to is the use of co2 with the cool tube wont outperform the barebulb with intake and exhaust.. I appreciate everyones input and willingness to elaborate their experiences. Definitely gonna save me some money and time.. 

Ill be building in a few weeks so ill take pictures when its all said and done.


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## MrMeanGreen (Nov 3, 2014)

ttystikk said:


> The guy above is absolutely right. Here's the implication, however;
> 
> Five feet in diameter by four feet tall = pi times 5 times four = 15.7 x 4 = 62.8 ft² I used four foot fence panels, so my circumference was exactly sixteen feet, and a diameter of 5'1", for 64 ft².
> 
> ...


This young man also, is spot on with the above numbers, but one must also consider that the light quality to that increased area is less than half of the quality of the light a tighter grow recieves.

Also, your numbers don't apply to my grow. "i did it my way" thread. I have 6 plants @ 5ft tall. Each plant is approx 2ft across and they rotate. So my total surface area is 15.7 x 2 = 31.4ft. Muliply that by six plants = 188.4ft.

Still think bare bulb is the way to go?

It's all about trade off's with growing conditions and tinkering to find what suites.


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## m4s73r (Nov 3, 2014)

MrMeanGreen said:


> This young man also, is spot on with the above numbers, but one must also consider that the light quality to that increased area is less than half of the quality of the light a tighter grow recieves.
> 
> Also, your numbers don't apply to my grow. "i did it my way" thread. I have 6 plants @ 5ft tall. Each plant is approx 2ft across and they rotate. So my total surface area is 15.7 x 2 = 31.4ft. Muliply that by six plants = 188.4ft.
> 
> ...


I remember that thread about the automatic plant movers, back in '12. I thought it was decided to be a waste of time yield wise.
https://www.rollitup.org/t/is-plant-rotation-really-necessary.703013/
So you would need to figure out the rotation as well as how long each part of the plant was exposed to the light.


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## MrMeanGreen (Nov 4, 2014)

m4s73r said:


> I remember that thread about the automatic plant movers, back in '12. I thought it was decided to be a waste of time yield wise.
> https://www.rollitup.org/t/is-plant-rotation-really-necessary.703013/
> So you would need to figure out the rotation as well as how long each part of the plant was exposed to the light.


I gorra stop smokin dis shit. Now that I read it, I remember it, could I remember it before?

hands on experience is invaluable and qualifies any poster to give advise but the smallest difference in grow conditions can produce 2 totally different oucomes , I doubt we would get the same results if we grew the same.. I am on an ever increasing yield and I know exactly (nearly exactly ish) how I got here and why, I know what works and what don't in my environment and will always push for more. The vibe I got from that thread was vert old timers getting a bit protective because they have been there, got the T shirt, didn't do too great and moved on. No offence intended lads, just sayin. That doesn't make a revisit with a fresh mind, wrong .

There are a lot of options with esposure times and rotations, I might be a while.


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## m4s73r (Nov 4, 2014)

MrMeanGreen said:


> I gorra stop smokin dis shit. Now that I read it, I remember it, could I remember it before?
> 
> The vibe I got from that thread was vert old timers getting a bit protective because they have been there, got the T shirt, *didn't do too great and moved on*. No offence intended lads, just sayin. That doesn't make a revisit with a fresh mind, wrong .
> 
> There are a lot of options with esposure times and rotations, I might be a while.


I felt the same way. Any time someone says, "ill try it for a grow!" i just laugh and shake my head. Try it for a year, then come talk to me.


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## ttystikk (Nov 4, 2014)

I would looooove to be proven wrong about plants on carousels.


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## ttystikk (Nov 4, 2014)

Here's my problem with carousels, however; I've already done something very similar with light rotators and it didn't work out.

Help me understand what's different about this approach?


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## MrMeanGreen (Nov 5, 2014)

ttystikk said:


> Here's my problem with carousels, however; I've already done something very similar with light rotators and it didn't work out.
> 
> Help me understand what's different about this approach?


It dawned on me last night that this is a moot debate and we are both singing from the same hymn sheet. I move the plants, you move the light. Same same no difference. We go vert for increased canopy size, my logic is applying the silo principle to all of my plants to doubles my canopy size again. Like I said earlier, my canopy is 150ft or there abouts in a room 8x8x6. For me, the challenge now is getting as much light spread around as possible.

other bonuses

I can swap and change my plants as i choose, move the whole thing if needed.
less intensive LST and vegging. (scrogging)
access to every part of every plant, any time.
better air circulation.
Easier at chop time.
Zero heat stress.... ever.

There will be many more reasons but guess what, stoned again and brain only running at 60%.


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## legallyflying (Nov 5, 2014)

Let me start by saying that i have tried just about every type of grow out there (besides the ridiculous carousels and what not) and vertical gives the best results BY FAR. We just pulled a little over 37 elbows from an 18 bulb vert room. 

Here is my take on your proposed design...it won't work without air conditioning of some sort. 

A thousand watt putts off a LOT of heat. Yes, a small office fan on the floor will effectively get rid of the heat in a normal size room but not with your ceiling heights. It's going to get HOT as fuck in there. 

The second issue is plant height. You better flip when there 12" tall or they will be scrapping the ceiling in no time. Or be prepared to hit them with phosphoload to limit height. 

Our final plants are about 12" from the bulbs at the closest. They average about 18"-20". The buds nearest the bulb are a TINY bit less frosty but the increase in yield is worth it. 

I think you should really really really think about using a 600. 

Good luck


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## rickymac21 (Nov 5, 2014)

legallyflying said:


> Let me start by saying that i have tried just about every type of grow out there (besides the ridiculous carousels and what not) and vertical gives the best results BY FAR. We just pulled a little over 37 elbows from an 18 bulb vert room.
> 
> Here is my take on your proposed design...it won't work without air conditioning of some sort.
> 
> ...


With all do respect man, i think your firing answers at me qithout knowing all the facts. . 
As for the heat, if you read one of my posts you qould see that the ambient temp is always between 60~70 depending on the time of year. . this cool air constantly being brought in the grow will help. 
Also their will be more than a single office fan blowing air up. If i were relying on that to remove heat, yea id be toasted. Along with that fan blowing up on yhe bulb, ill have my can fan 6" pro pulling heat out directly above the bulb.. 
Ive also decided to make the room length and width to 7'x7' to make the heat more controlable. 
Now as for plant height, your just guessing honestly. You dont know what strains i have , period.(All indica dominant)... Nor did you read that i would be using screens to control growth direction.. 
If i flowered at 12" id be wasting my time and money..

Im not doubting your knowledge. I think you just failed to see all the facts...


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## legallyflying (Nov 5, 2014)

Fair enough. And BTW I was talking 12" of plant height..you have another 8-10" in container height. 

Anyways..the ceiling mounted extraction fan is a great idea but I would suggest getting a powered inlet fan as well or you will NOT move enough air. 

You don't have much volume and airflow is going to be pretty restricted by your canopy. 

The standard convention is powered inlet of the same size or passive inlet that is 3x-4x the size of your outlet. 

Even my indicas grow 1.5 times their height when I flip..but then again that is in RDWC. I would imagine soil stretch would be much less (but your going to induce stretch with hot days and cold nights) 

A Dehu set to run when the lights are off can help reduce the effects of temp differential


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## m4s73r (Nov 5, 2014)

legallyflying said:


> Fair enough. And BTW I was talking 12" of plant height..you have another 8-10" in container height.
> 
> Anyways..the ceiling mounted extraction fan is a great idea but I would suggest getting a powered inlet fan as well or you will NOT move enough air.
> 
> ...


It is unfortunate that you dont have a 6ft ceiling. A 1000 watt will properly light a 5 ft plant. 600 will do a 4ft. Your bulb size has more to do with your ceiling then your horizontal space.

Rather then a dehu, just get a humidty/thermometer controller for the fans. Less power draw, more efficient. but in most cases if you have a 6inch fan and a speed controller this is unnecessary. Just turn the fan up, you only have 220 cf. A 440 fan with a inlet of 12 inches (2 6" ports) should be good. But dont quote on me on that. Never dealt with a short ceiling.

And to be honest with only 220 cf of space, I wouldnt run more then a 600 watt. If your ceiling was 6.5 ft or so, then id jump on the 1000. But with a 1000 in a 7x7x4.5 id run a 8 inch fan. 720 cfm. id rather have more fan then i need then not enough. And your going to need some time to dial that room in temp wise. But thats why were here, to help. lol


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## rickymac21 (Nov 8, 2014)

Looks like i have a lot of crap tp sell off then. Haha. 
Ill go ahead and get myself a 10" fan to use directly above the bulb, pulling air up and out. Ill duct this elsewhere in the house to keep ambient temps as low as possible. Then just a box fan on the ground blowing up on the bulb.
Then for the inlet i could use a single 8" fan to bring cool air in. 

An idea struck me though. What if i use the 6" fan under the bulb? Have it ducted under the grow room pulling in fresh air blowing up directly passed the bulb. Then the higher cfm 10" fan still on top pulling air out of the tent. This would create a more direct funnel of air passing the bulb, thus reducing radiated heat. The 6" would act as a booster fan basically since the 10" fan above would have a much higher cfm rating. Of course a 6" ~ 8" inlet fan would be used to bring in cool air as well.. What do you think ? Useful or trouble ?


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## m4s73r (Nov 8, 2014)

I wouldnt do that. And the reason is your air intake is also your co2 replacement. im afraid if you put the fans/ducting so close the surrounding air wouldnt get cycled as well. but tbh, that is part of dialing in your room. you will know that answer with-in a light cycle. your plants will let you know as well. id have my intake as far from my out as possible.


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## rickymac21 (Nov 9, 2014)

m4s73r said:


> I wouldnt do that. And the reason is your air intake is also your co2 replacement. im afraid if you put the fans/ducting so close the surrounding air wouldnt get cycled as well. but tbh, that is part of dialing in your room. you will know that answer with-in a light cycle. your plants will let you know as well. id have my intake as far from my out as possible.


Yea i tried to mention in my last post that there would be a 2nd intake fan. But i worded it funny i guess. . . 
So ..
1 10" fan above the bulb pulling air out
1 6" fan below the bulb pushing air up
1 6" fan at the side of room bringing in fresh air. 

Or would using both 6" fans as intakes work better as originally stated.


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## m4s73r (Nov 9, 2014)

i see what u did there.
TBO, no idea. never done it. but the principal is the fan under the light runs at such a low speed that all its doing is giving a slight assist to natural heat rise.


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## rickymac21 (Nov 9, 2014)

m4s73r said:


> i see what u did there.
> TBO, no idea. never done it. but the principal is the fan under the light runs at such a low speed that all its doing is giving a slight assist to natural heat rise.


Well here's my thought process.
The bulb is the only thing creating heat within the grow room. Of course. So the idea is to remove that heat as quickly as possible. Ideally everyone would use a cooltube because it isolates the heat into a smaller air space. Making it easy to remove the heat before it has a chance to warm the room.But the loss of useable light yada yada. So the next thing you do is think how you can isolate the air around the bulb without glass. So you put the 10" fan above the bare bulb, and pull that heat right out. But that wasnt working well enough because the fan was pulling air in from all directions. So you add the box fan under the bulb to blow up towards the outlet fan. This creates a small wind tunnel and helped. But that fan is large and the air flow is now concentrated. So the air blowing on the bulb is wamed and blown through out the room. Thus increasing temps. But if the fan underneath is an inline fan ducted from outside the room and blows up pass the bulb, it creates a much more compact and 'isolated' airspace. So the heat is relativley trapped and sucked straight out the top. 
Its like if your roof had a leak. You dont just put a bucket down permantly and call it fixed. (ok maybe the first couple days.). You find the source of the leak to stop it altogether.
Same principal. If the heat source can be managed by itself, thats a lot more efficient than removing the heat from the whole room. 
But if you read all that, kudos lol my bad for the book. Im just gonna try it, post pictures and feedback when its tested. How about that. Hah


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## ttystikk (Nov 10, 2014)

You answered your own question; don't just blow the heat around in the room, get rid of it. But how? If you're venting your room, fine. What's the intake bringing in? If that's not cool enough, there's your problem. If you're actively cooling your room, even better. Make sure it's getting rid of more heat than everything in your room is generating.

The weather is turning cold, so venting from outside is an option.


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## rickymac21 (Nov 12, 2014)

Well the good news is the grow room now has a height of about 7 ft. Which is just awesome. That will help with the temp control and allow for slightly larger ladies.


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## Flagg420 (Nov 12, 2014)

7ft? Fuck it, use the cool tubes, but stack like 3 of them, or rig a double ender n run 4 bulbs vert!

Let there be trees! 
Grow a plant that could beat up Audrey II....
(I'm sorry if your all too young to get that)


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## ttystikk (Nov 12, 2014)

I got your trees right here, buddy-


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## rickymac21 (Nov 13, 2014)

Isnt that trellis on the wrong side of the plant . lol . that is a nice large ladie though.


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## ttystikk (Nov 13, 2014)

rickymac21 said:


> Isnt that trellis on the wrong side of the plant . lol . that is a nice large ladie though.


No.


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## AltarNation (Nov 16, 2014)

rickymac21 said:


> Isnt that trellis on the wrong side of the plant . lol . that is a nice large ladie though.


You can put a screen in front or behind... when behind you would just use some quick tie offs of some sort (pieces of string, clips, twist ties, whatever is convenient and easy to put on and off) to tie back to the screen.

Weaving through a vert screen kind of sucks. It's not the same as horizontal scrog... once things grow up and through they stiffen and you become committed to the positioning.

When you put it behind you eliminate this problem as you can always remove and re-connect binding points.

On top of that, the screen itself doesn't block light from anything that isn't woven through yet... not a huge deal but does mean more light... there are probably other upsides I'm not seeing too...


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## ttystikk (Nov 16, 2014)

Everyone does it their own way. I'm not sure it's wrong either way.


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## THE KONASSURE (Nov 16, 2014)

nah he`s doing it fine you let the buds get close to the lamp then you tie them down to the screen to fatten up once the screen is full you cut the branch and carry the screen to the next room for some punk to trim and dry lol


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## ttystikk (Nov 16, 2014)

THE KONASSURE said:


> nah he`s doing it fine you let the buds get close to the lamp then you tie them down to the screen to fatten up once the screen is full you cut the branch and carry the screen to the next room for some punk to trim and dry lol


Shaddap, you gonna give it all away- people like to work at growing weed, remember? LOL


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## THE KONASSURE (Nov 16, 2014)

I hate people that try to work I mean if all I had to do to grow a plant was put it in a machine for 15mins and there was about a billion settings that I could fuck with then it went ping I`d do that but sadly we seem to need light, water and a whole bunch of what ever seems to actually work for us


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## rickymac21 (Nov 16, 2014)

AltarNation said:


> You can put a screen in front or behind... when behind you would just use some quick tie offs of some sort (pieces of string, clips, twist ties, whatever is convenient and easy to put on and off) to tie back to the screen.
> 
> Weaving through a vert screen kind of sucks. It's not the same as horizontal scrog... once things grow up and through they stiffen and you become committed to the positioning.
> 
> ...


After i wrote that post, i actually got to thinking about just that. I was trying to imagine trying to re-place branches as they grow. Im sure tying them to a screen behind it,make life much easier. In fact, i dont know why i never tried that with a horizontal screen. It may be a littler more difficult, but still very effective.


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