# How to push out sucked in mylar tent walls?



## GreenLogician (Feb 7, 2016)

Hey everyone. I have a grow tent, with an exhaust fan and passive intakes.
The walls suck in, reducing my grow space.
What would you suggest I use to prop them out?
An easy solution would be some long straight pipe or something I run from one corner rod to a neighboring rod, holding the wall flat.
A better solution would be something that bends out a few cm in the middle, giving me a concave wall (from an inside view). Any ideas?
I'm thinking I'll head up to Bunnings and look for some sturdy wire, and would like to hear alternative suggestions.


----------



## highdave (Feb 8, 2016)

What size tent are you running and what CFM is the exaust fan?

Could be your sucking more air out than is able to be sucked in thru the passive air flow. 

Fan speed controller would help with that. Or a booster for the intake.

Could be wrong, more experienced grower is sure to drop by.

Just a noobs .02


----------



## tyke1973 (Feb 8, 2016)

Increase the inlet,have it on ground level so fresh air ain't sucked straight out of the room


----------



## R1b3n4 (Feb 8, 2016)

Either turn down the exhaust fan using a fan speed controller or get a fan blowing air in etc


----------



## thumper60 (Feb 8, 2016)

R1b3n4 said:


> Either turn down the exhaust fan using a fan speed controller or get a fan blowing air in etc


yes


----------



## dbkick (Feb 8, 2016)

I saw a product for this but can't remember where but it was some sort of bracing for walls of a tent.. It may have been diy since the details are fuzzy.
I can think of several ways you could brace walls of a tent.


----------



## GreenLogician (Feb 8, 2016)

I've got a sweet exhaust fan, with a built-in dimmer. The 'hyperfan'.
Lowering exhaust speed does help reduce wall suck-in, but there's a limit to how low I can take it in the summer.
And I'd still like to aim for pushing those walls out for extra space


----------



## GreenLogician (Feb 8, 2016)

An intake blower fan would do it, but the intake holes on my tent aren't really appropriate. Fly screened rectangles on 3 sides, with flaps hanging over them inside to stop light coming in or going out.


----------



## GreenLogician (Feb 8, 2016)

Hmmm! Maybe I could tape closed my passive intake holes, it does have socked holes for a fan intake.
My next problem there is i only have two hyperfans, one for my flower tent, one for my veg closet.
But! As my veg closet doesn't generate much heat, I could probably duct from my veg exhaust right to my flower room as an intake.
Then having my veg closet exhaust running stronger than my flower tent exhaust... bingo!

Niiiice this may be an easier option than curved wall braces after all!


----------



## tyke1973 (Feb 8, 2016)

Have duct running along the floor of the tent with holes punched in the sides ,this way the incoming air can be used by the plants has it rises.have the filter high up preferred in the centre of the tent,if you use a 8 inch out let a 6/7 inlet will be fine.even if the tent sides are been pulled in,has long has the plants look healthy don't worrie.


----------



## GreenLogician (Feb 8, 2016)

Do you let that take up floor space or have plants raised on an air-transparent shelf above it?


----------



## LOFT (Feb 10, 2016)

As mentioned above its negative pressure in your tent which is a good thing in many ways as it stops smell leaks
But also as said above you might need to open another flap

The rule i was always led to believe was if you have a 6inch pulling out you need a 4 inch passive intake... always have your out take slighly bigger that the intake to keep the negative pressure
When i first started i had nothing but trouble with pressure etc
Until an old gypsy gave me the advice 

EDIT: Again as mentioned above if you have your filter at the top you need your intake whatever it be at the bottom to stop "short circuit" of natural flow


----------



## tyke1973 (Feb 11, 2016)

It's easy to correct just up grade the inlet,it show's that the tent is pretty good quality and is air tight.i would never advice opening the vents ,too be honest I think there a waste of space,not the duct vents the viewing ones.the whole idea is to make a tent air and smell tight,another cheaper way of solving the problem till you can up grade the inlet is have a ossalating fan blowing air,in through the bottom hole,but by having the inlet low down in the tent with duct running across the floor of the room with holes in the sides,you will find that this will sort it's self out,because the fresh air inlet has to bring in air that will be pulled up wards by the filter,have the filter central in the top of the tent ,but the oss fan is just a short term fix,best to have a inlet a tad smaller than inlet eg 12 out 8 in.but all this is for nothing if the plants look ok and are growing well then it's not a problem,just use good quality gaffer tape and alls good .A cheap bathroom inlet fan would be ideal for a extra inlet there cheap too ,pick one up for around 12/15 pound,good luck the plants will tell you if there are s not enough fresh air in the room ,but it's more likely bugging you ,more than it is the plants.


----------



## JSB99 (Feb 11, 2016)

Take a 25' length of flexible ducting at HD and attach it to one of your bottom socks. Then loop the duct around a couple times or get it to where light coming in won't make it inside the tent. You may not need the whole 25'.

On the end of the duct, use duct tape around the edges so there are no sharp spots. Then take some black nylon pantyhose and stretch it over the end to act as a filter.

If you still get negative pressure, get a duct booster fan and either attach it in between the tent and the flexible ducting, or put it at the end of the duct, but tape and cover the fan intake side.

This can be done on multiple intakes.


----------



## JSB99 (Feb 11, 2016)

Actually, don't use another fan. It would be a waste. You already have too much negative pressure, so what you would need to do is use more intake socks and flexible duct to allow more airflow. You really want to try and balance it using a speed controller and enough air intake to match. 

Also, negative pressure puts a load on your fan so it has to work harder, which will make it warmer.


----------



## swagslayer420 (Feb 11, 2016)

dbkick said:


> I saw a product for this but can't remember where but it was some sort of bracing for walls of a tent.. It may have been diy since the details are fuzzy.
> I can think of several ways you could brace walls of a tent.


gorilla grow tent has them.


----------



## Bluntsmith (Feb 11, 2016)

GreenLogician said:


> I've got a sweet exhaust fan, with a built-in dimmer. The 'hyperfan'.
> Lowering exhaust speed does help reduce wall suck-in, but there's a limit to how low I can take it in the summer.
> And I'd still like to aim for pushing those walls out for extra space


it comes down to your intake air flow. you're blasting air out and creating a vacuum in there. 

it may reduce space for your plants in the tent but think about all the extra space your room now has! haha... 

but seriously, get more air in. if you're not going that route, my broke friend put up small bungee cords between the posts of his tents to keep the fabric from pushing in too far....


----------



## JSB99 (Feb 11, 2016)

BTW, this is the flexible ducting I was referring to. You should be able to go up to 8" with your bottom intakes, but I would instead use 2 of the bottom intakes (socks) with a 6" flexible duct. That way you have fresh air coming in from each side, allowing for much better circulation. Just buy a 25ft like below, split it, attach one to the port on each side, and route the intakes to a dark place (like behind the tent).

Remember to cover the ends with pantyhose for a filter

*Flexible Duct*


----------



## JSB99 (Feb 11, 2016)

You'll need collars to attach the duct to the tent ports. *Collars*

Then you can either duct tape it together or use 6" hose clamps


----------



## GreenLogician (Feb 12, 2016)

Guys! Problem solved.
Bracing the walls turned out to be way easier than getting an active intake.
Coat hangers.
Yep! Coat hangers. They were the perfect length, strength, wow.
The pretty thick bendable wire ones covered in thick plastic coating.
I straightened them, then bent 10cm'ish down on either side,
(to tape against the tent corner pole), then bent them out in the middle.
Perrrrrrfect! So easy. So fixed. Epic.


----------



## Alienwidow (Feb 12, 2016)

Nice. I make X's from duct tape, and then staple those to the wall.


----------



## JSB99 (Feb 12, 2016)

GreenLogician said:


> Guys! Problem solved.
> Bracing the walls turned out to be way easier than getting an active intake.
> Coat hangers.
> Yep! Coat hangers. They were the perfect length, strength, wow.
> ...



Problem is that you're system still isn't balanced so no matter how high you turn your fan up, the amount of air is still restricted.

In the Winter, when it's cool, a lot of times you can turn your fan down low and achieve proper cooling. But when you need to turn the fan up to account for heat, it'll still be like running your fan at low speed. All you'll do is put stress on your fan, your tent, your plants (from inadequate flow of air), and cause your fan to run hot because of the massive load it's pulling.

Those flaps are useless and you'll probably see a lot of tent owners using the duct ports on the bottom of the tent as either passive or active air intake.

You do not need an intake fan. If you added one it would probably spin just as fast unplugged from the massive amount of negative pressure.

Simple test...close your flaps and use something to hold your bottom intakes open and see how your tent does.


----------



## GreenLogician (Feb 12, 2016)

Yep using a foot of duct to prop open the bottom intakes seems to do better than the flaps in some places, lower temps and more airflow near the front. Some warmer areas in the back. 
They are at the corners adjacent the door, so that's expected.
Good test, I think flaps + bottom intakes open is the way to go.


----------



## GreenLogician (Feb 12, 2016)

The problem of restricted air is still one I face though, since I put my hps back in alongside my led, the exhaust is being dragged over my bulb in the cool tube on its way out. That bulb takes up a reasonable portion of the 6 inches


----------



## JSB99 (Feb 13, 2016)

GreenLogician said:


> The problem of restricted air is still one I face though, since I put my hps back in alongside my led, the exhaust is being dragged over my bulb in the cool tube on its way out. That bulb takes up a reasonable portion of the 6 inches


If you're using a cool tube, it's kind of the point to make it as compact as possible.

Try using a small 6" fan pointed right under the cool tube. This will disapate any standing heat directly under the light.


----------



## JSB99 (Feb 13, 2016)

Oh, I see what you're saying. You think the light in the cool tube is restricting air flow. Maybe, but it's probably okay. If it's a problem you can always opt for an ac hood.


----------



## JSB99 (Feb 13, 2016)

GreenLogician said:


> Yep using a foot of duct to prop open the bottom intakes seems to do better than the flaps in some places, lower temps and more airflow near the front. Some warmer areas in the back.
> They are at the corners adjacent the door, so that's expected.
> Good test, I think flaps + bottom intakes open is the way to go.


One last thing, if you're getting cooler temps in the front of your tent you can put a small fan on the floor to push some cool air back, or run a length of duct from one port to the back of the inside of the tent. A booster fan might help balance this out.

If you still have negative pressure and you've used all available bottom ports, you can also run a length of duct from one of the open ports on top to the floor. It's not ideal, but it is a solution. And when you're fighting heat, max airflow will definitely help.

Good luck, my friend


----------



## sixspeedv (Feb 14, 2016)

I have a small tent with 460cfm exhaust and was having pretty bad neg pressure with fan dialed down a lot. My passive intake was only 4 inches. I recently added a 100cfm inline fan into the intake hole and with exhaust at about half speed I not longer have neg pressure. The air exchange is great and temps are holding. 

I just need to cover the intake fan as light is blasting through it and get a filter over it. Stealth is key.


----------



## kmog33 (Feb 15, 2016)

Propping the tent open is not a good solution for negative air pressure. You either need to add a fan to balance out pressure. Or to do passive you need to open more surface area of the tent for the fan to pull into the tent passively and it will fix you sucked in issue without hurting your fan. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JSB99 (Feb 15, 2016)

sixspeedv said:


> I have a small tent with 460cfm exhaust and was having pretty bad neg pressure with fan dialed down a lot. My passive intake was only 4 inches. I recently added a 100cfm inline fan into the intake hole and with exhaust at about half speed I not longer have neg pressure. The air exchange is great and temps are holding.
> 
> I just need to cover the intake fan as light is blasting through it and get a filter over it. Stealth is key.


Get a length of black, white, or insulated flexible duct. Coil it up from the intake of the fan. Then get some black nylon panty hose and stretch it over the end up the duct. This will all help prevent light leaks as well as keeping bugs and dust out.


----------



## blackforest (Feb 15, 2016)

Use some bamboo poles, the kind you use to stake up plants. Just make a makeshift cage with the existing support poles. Just a few bucks and some duct tape.


----------



## GreenLogician (Feb 16, 2016)

blackforest said:


> Use some bamboo poles, the kind you use to stake up plants. Just make a makeshift cage with the existing support poles. Just a few bucks and some duct tape.


Ya that's good, but I did better using coat hangers - my makeshift cage can bend outwards giving me extra room, not just restored to rectangular - but beyond


----------



## justugh (Feb 17, 2016)

GreenLogician said:


> Ya that's good, but I did better using coat hangers - my makeshift cage can bend outwards giving me extra room, not just restored to rectangular - but beyond


https://www.rollitup.org/Journal/Entry/filter-box-for-intake-to-tent.25313/#comment-27754

the answers are simple
1 u need to brace the walls (u can do it with string go around the poles and make a taught line of string when it sucks in it hits the string and stops)
2 a powered intake rated lower then your exhaust so maintain negative pressure for smell control but lighten the suck force on the walls/passive intake


----------



## highdave (Mar 27, 2016)

Ran into this problem when I bought my set up. Was losing about 8 to 10 inches of space. In a 3x3 it was killin me.

But instead of taking my own advice and getting an intake I decided to kill 2 birds with one stone and make a pvc boarder around my tent. ( complete With a little section for my tower fan) it holds my walls at 32" and holds my screen


----------



## WeedFreak78 (Mar 27, 2016)

What's the frame on these tents made from? Seems like some electric emt conduit or pvc could easily be added as cross braces, the emt stuff has connectors/couplings that could be adapted easily. Slide some 1"foam insulation between the frame and fabric. It's solid enough to not suck in. Wrapping the frame in tight string or wire seems simple to me.


----------



## antonios88 (Oct 24, 2016)

GreenLogician said:


> Hey everyone. I have a grow tent, with an exhaust fan and passive intakes.
> The walls suck in, reducing my grow space.
> What would you suggest I use to prop them out?
> An easy solution would be some long straight pipe or something I run from one corner rod to a neighboring rod, holding the wall flat.
> ...


hi
i am still having this problem with the walls caving in, iv added intake (not too much) i tried the bamboos from pole to pole with duct tape but still having problems not very secure.. any more ideas?


----------



## GreenLogician (Oct 24, 2016)

Yes Antonios88! If your tent is about the same size as mine, coat hangers. Coat hangers coat hangers coat hangers.

Bamboo, pvc, string and all that have been suggested as bracing, but that will only go straight from pole to pole.
It will only restore sucked in walls to flat walls, although you could do it on a tent any size.
Mine is 80cm x 80cm, which is perfect for coat hangers.
With coat hangers, They can actually bend out, pushing the walls out and giving EXTRA room, as if you had a positive pressure system in there blowing the walls out.


----------



## GreenLogician (Oct 24, 2016)

If duct tape isn't stable enough for you, try zip ties


----------



## rob333 (Oct 24, 2016)

GreenLogician said:


> Hey everyone. I have a grow tent, with an exhaust fan and passive intakes.
> The walls suck in, reducing my grow space.
> What would you suggest I use to prop them out?
> An easy solution would be some long straight pipe or something I run from one corner rod to a neighboring rod, holding the wall flat.
> ...


get a stonger intake if your walls are sucking in it ,means u dont have a strong intake there for your intake will be sucked up by the outake and you will get zero to 13% air intake in the grow room wood rails to push the tent apart will not work


----------



## Candybeast (Oct 24, 2016)

How did this help?


----------



## GreenLogician (Oct 24, 2016)

I've got extra space now 
I like it, but I'm going to use only white coat hangers next time


----------



## Candybeast (Oct 24, 2016)

I'm saying how did you apply it?


----------



## GreenLogician (Oct 24, 2016)

I've propped open my bottom duct intakes for a large passive intake, and:
I zip tied the 'arms' of these structures (that I bent the coat hangers into) onto the corner bars of my 80x80cm tent, at canopy height 
On one wall I put two at different heights, works even better.


----------



## Candybeast (Oct 24, 2016)

Nice... whatever works.so you keep the screen open for an intake? Do you have an intake fan?


----------



## GreenLogician (Oct 24, 2016)

O's are zip ties attaching it to the back left vertical corner pole,
X's are zip ties attaching it to the back right vertical corner pole.


----------



## ttystikk (Oct 24, 2016)

GreenLogician said:


> Yes Antonios88! If your tent is about the same size as mine, coat hangers. Coat hangers coat hangers coat hangers.
> 
> Bamboo, pvc, string and all that have been suggested as bracing, but that will only go straight from pole to pole.
> It will only restore sucked in walls to flat walls, although you could do it on a tent any size.
> ...


Coat hangers are magical devices. Sooooooo many uses.


----------



## GreenLogician (Oct 24, 2016)

No I don't use an intake fan.
I use both the screen flaps built in for passive, plus some short duct with open ends, propping open the bottom duct ports. (Bent around cleverly to prevent light leaks)


----------



## Candybeast (Oct 24, 2016)

What do you do when your not home and the flaps are open. From how I see it those are only meant for viewports. Not designed for a light proof ventilation system.ive dictated mine closed.i don't trust Velcro.


----------



## GreenLogician (Oct 24, 2016)

Ya that would be a problem, the flaps hang on the inside for me and I let them ride free all the time.
But I've been clever with placing my tent in the corner. It has a dark half foot of space between it and the wall, behind it and on its right.
For the left screen, I've got my computer, desk and curtain almost up against it, and taped some cardboard and paper towel as as a shade to it only opens to the dark corner down behind my computer.

I've created dark zones outside the flaps


----------



## Candybeast (Oct 25, 2016)

Get one fan.for 70$ and eliminate the need for all of those opening and dark zones. I have found that having the right equipment makes all the difference. I say this because I have done all the same things you have . And they worked. But where a pain in the ass. I used to have whirly birds on tips of a wooden grow box with bathroom fans. And 150w HPS,2 of em . My point is I wasted alot of time on diy solutions. But cardboard and duct tape with only get you so far. Not trying to knock ya. Just friendly advice.


----------



## alexia (Oct 25, 2016)

hey guys,I'm also having this problem,and I've tried everything above,
extra intake,bamboo from pole to pole.even the hanger idea,its all to weak,
i have a 1.2m and i am not getting the space of a 1.2m,its more like a 1m.my plants are getting squashed and creating mould.
this is a big problem. HELLPPPP!!!!!!


----------



## Candybeast (Oct 25, 2016)

Get a new tent. Or rewrap the existing frame with panda paper


----------



## bamboofarmer (Nov 5, 2016)

I like to create positive pressure in my tent which makes the sides balloon outward. Keeps things cleaner inside the tent too.


----------



## bamboofarmer (Nov 5, 2016)

alexia said:


> hey guys,I'm also having this problem,and I've tried everything above,
> extra intake,bamboo from pole to pole.even the hanger idea,its all to weak,
> i have a 1.2m and i am not getting the space of a 1.2m,its more like a 1m.my plants are getting squashed and creating mould.
> this is a big problem. HELLPPPP!!!!!!


Use an active intake and passive exhaust. Adjust the exhaust so it allows slightly less air out than the air which is coming in. That way the tent will push outward instead of sucking inward.


----------



## Antgotaclue (Nov 15, 2016)

I to have the same problem an I do have an intake but the intake fan don't run at same speed if ya will so gonna swap them about next time I'm at my tent


----------



## Antgotaclue (Nov 15, 2016)

This is my intake


----------



## Chef420 (Nov 15, 2016)

I have a Secret Jardin 3x3 and it came with 3x3' bars and ends to hang stuff. I'm only using one to hang my 600 hid light. I used some 1/2" neoprene that came as packing material for an office chair to fashion pole clips to hold the bar in place. It's also easy to remove and/or adjust.


----------



## Woodfella (Nov 17, 2016)

GreenLogician said:


> I've got a sweet exhaust fan, with a built-in dimmer. The 'hyperfan'.
> Lowering exhaust speed does help reduce wall suck-in, but there's a limit to how low I can take it in the summer.
> And I'd still like to aim for pushing those walls out for extra space


If you're pushing walls out you're also pushing stink out. If that's a concern for you


----------



## GreenLogician (Nov 17, 2016)

Agreed, Bamboofarmer and Antgotaclue above recommended an active intake and passive exhaust to push out walls, but the downside to that is air coming uncontrolled out of all the leaks in your room. It's not appropriate if you want to control your smell, like using a carbon filter.

I push my walls out physically, with concave bracing, not with positive air pressure


----------



## r.i.kid (Nov 17, 2016)

GreenLogician said:


> Agreed, Bamboofarmer and Antgotaclue above recommended an active intake and passive exhaust to push out walls, but the downside to that is air coming uncontrolled out of all the leaks in your room. It's not appropriate if you want to control your smell, like using a carbon filter.
> 
> I push my walls out physically, with concave bracing, not with positive air pressure


yard sticks....bend and are sturdy ...if you're still is school steal some


----------



## r.i.kid (Nov 17, 2016)

GreenLogician said:


> Agreed, Bamboofarmer and Antgotaclue above recommended an active intake and passive exhaust to push out walls, but the downside to that is air coming uncontrolled out of all the leaks in your room. It's not appropriate if you want to control your smell, like using a carbon filter.
> 
> I push my walls out physically, with concave bracing, not with positive air pressure


drill a hole and mount with a zip tie...easy as pie..for further sturdy Ness go with ferring strip at a lowes of home depot


----------



## bamboofarmer (Nov 18, 2016)

GreenLogician said:


> Agreed, Bamboofarmer and Antgotaclue above recommended an active intake and passive exhaust to push out walls, but the downside to that is air coming uncontrolled out of all the leaks in your room. It's not appropriate if you want to control your smell, like using a carbon filter.
> 
> I push my walls out physically, with concave bracing, not with positive air pressure


I suppose that's true, but if you tune everything just right, almost no air at all will escape the tent. I don't balloon the walls out, just keep them nice and relaxed. I actually have an active intake and exhaust, but use only one fan to do it.


----------



## r.i.kid (Nov 18, 2016)

I agree with you op...keep a slight negative pressure..any thing else air will be escaping and so will smell.. no such thing as a tottaly air tight opp......


----------



## GreenLogician (Nov 19, 2016)

Bamboofarmer, how do you do an active intake and exhaust of the same tent, with a single fan, without just recirculating the same air?
The only way I've met those criteria is when the exhaust fan from one tent blew into the intake for another.


----------



## bamboofarmer (Nov 25, 2016)

GreenLogician said:


> Bamboofarmer, how do you do an active intake and exhaust of the same tent, with a single fan, without just recirculating the same air?
> The only way I've met those criteria is when the exhaust fan from one tent blew into the intake for another.


Sounds like you know what I mean. Yes there is some exhaust circulated, but temp in tent is still easily maintained as long as I'm bringing in cold air from outside.


----------



## Infantilebehavior (Dec 19, 2016)

Hey guys. First post here. Been browsing for years. I usualy keep to myself when it comes to growing, but... I too have had problems with walls sucking in for years now and have tried everything from coat hangers, string, duct tape, Velcro. The other day I was grabbing some ff soil from the hardware store and ran into these(pic #1) Some kinda conduit holding clips. Was found in the electrical section. Lightbulb! They looked like they'd clip perfectly to tent poles.. So I bought two to test out. They fit. So I bought 6 more. For a total of $4. I used 3/16 steel rods that I had laying around. U could use 1/8" or 1/4" or anywhere in between. Depending on tent size this could run anywhere from $20 to a bunch. I just happened to have some that fit perfectly. I cut the rods to about 1" longer then width of tent. Bowed a little. So when u clip them on they will bow outwards like 4-5". This not only held my walls from caving in but placed in the right spot gave me MORE grow space in my little 4x2 tent. Although 48"x24" at the bottom and top, my "canopy space" has increased to around 56" and 30" at center. U can also moved them up and down. Add more. Remove them in 5 seconds if needed.. I am stoked about this and just thought I'd share my recent discovery.


----------



## GreenLogician (Dec 22, 2016)

Wow man, awesome!
The same path of discovery I've started down with the coat hangers, but an evolution further; modular!


----------



## Infantilebehavior (Dec 24, 2016)

*These little clips also work great for holding scrog screens. Drill a hole or cut a small notch. Which I'm very wary of now because of my last run. I had a clip fan come undone. Because walls of tent Sucked In and unclipped it!. It fell from top. Landed on scrog net and not so neatly clipped about half my crop off!! Lessoned learned.
But ya I pretty stoked about this little fix. Not only works. But looks legit. Not like the ghetto coat hangers and different colored strings and ropes I've tried. It looks like something u could prob market for grow tents. Legit. I'll have to try snap a pic of them on tent. I have so much more canopy room now!!!*


----------



## Infantilebehavior (Dec 26, 2016)

Wow! Check these out! Must be fairly new... They don't bow out like my setup but should be what every one with this problem is looking for, "gorilla high cfm" tent wall supports. Never seen them till just now...


----------



## GreenLogician (Dec 29, 2016)

Cool!
Needs to bow out, but the industry is at least catching up!


----------



## antonios88 (Dec 29, 2016)

I found somethimg but it can only b preordered for know. And they can ship worldwide which is good
Www.Extendogrow.com
Hope this helps for everyone


----------



## antonios88 (Dec 29, 2016)

GreenLogician said:


> Wow man, awesome!
> The same path of discovery I've started down with the coat hangers, but an evolution further; modular!


No need for coat hangers dude.
Check out this site www.extendogrow.com


----------



## GoHardGrowHard (Dec 29, 2016)

my local shop been telling me about that product encouraging me to buy it he thinks its brilliant. i pre ordered it yesterday i got 2 packs for my 1.2 x 1.2m tent. i found this pic on a site.


----------



## GreenLogician (Dec 29, 2016)

Daaaaamn the world is on to it! Modular AND extendable.
And here I thought I was inventing stuff


----------



## Jonstipated (Dec 29, 2016)

I used curtain rods. They are expandable to fit whatever size, and the ends are pre-bent and easy to bend the rest of the way to fit around existing tent structure. They are pretty sturdy, enough to keep my tent from sucking in much. They were $8.50 at the hardware store for two that fit my 48x80". I'll have to get one more set to complete 3 sides.


----------



## GoHardGrowHard (Dec 30, 2016)

Jonstipated said:


> I used curtain rods. They are expandable to fit whatever size, and the ends are pre-bent and easy to bend the rest of the way to fit around existing tent structure. They are pretty sturdy, enough to keep my tent from sucking in much. They were $8.50 at the hardware store for two that fit my 48x80". I'll have to get one more set to complete 3 sides.


theres loads of ways to diy to stop caving walls but that expando pushes the walls OUT. if you read the benefits of it its unbelievable, makes sense. people like me spend loads of money creating a better environment for my plants to gain more yield and better finish. its products like this that genuinely work. based on logic, more space, more light space, better airflow, read the benefits its endless. plus it looks pretty in my tent


----------



## Jonstipated (Dec 30, 2016)

GoHardGrowHard said:


> theres loads of ways to diy to stop caving walls but that expando pushes the walls OUT. if you read the benefits of it its unbelievable, makes sense. people like me spend loads of money creating a better environment for my plants to gain more yield and better finish. its products like this that genuinely work. based on logic, more space, more light space, better airflow, read the benefits its endless. plus it looks pretty in my tent


That's good I'm glad you are happy with them. However due to space constraints some people would rather not have their tent bowing outwards. Can you put them horizontally and vertically? I was simply sharing my successful method for keeping my tent in its original shape, which genuinely works based on logic.


----------



## GoHardGrowHard (Dec 30, 2016)

Jonstipated said:


> That's good I'm glad you are happy with them. However due to space constraints some people would rather not have their tent bowing outwards. Can you put them horizontally and vertically? I was simply sharing my successful method for keeping my tent in its original shape, which genuinely works based on logic.


i understand dude we all had to do diy at sometime. but you can control how much you push out with it too. whatever works for you i guess. happy farming!


----------



## Jonstipated (Dec 30, 2016)

GoHardGrowHard said:


> i understand dude we all had to do diy at sometime. but you can control how much you push out with it too. whatever works for you i guess. happy farming!


Hey if they had these right by the curtain rods I would have definitely bought them instead!


----------



## WeedFreak78 (Dec 30, 2016)

These don't make much sense to me, financially. That says 2 per side, so it'd cost just as much to fully equip a 4×4 tent with these as what you'd paid for one. If you have a smaller tent than a 4x4, just get a larger one with that $$$, BAM more space, rather than trying to doctor a poor situation. Plus you'll have your old tent as a spare. 

If you have a big tent, just make some for a few bucks. Get 2 pieces of pvc that slide in each other, some T and 90° fittings to make's the end brackets, cut a piece of pipe in half to make the ends that rest on the poles, some set screws or clamps. You could build a whole tents worth of those for the price of 1, maybe 1 1/2 of those..... and not wait until April.


----------



## GoHardGrowHard (Dec 30, 2016)

WeedFreak78 said:


> These don't make much sense to me, financially. That says 2 per side, so it'd cost just as much to fully equip a 4×4 tent with these as what you'd paid for one. If you have a smaller tent than a 4x4, just get a larger one with that $$$, BAM more space, rather than trying to doctor a poor situation. Plus you'll have your old tent as a spare.
> 
> If you have a big tent, just make some for a few bucks. Get 2 pieces of pvc that slide in each other, some T and 90° fittings to make's the end brackets, cut a piece of pipe in half to make the ends that rest on the poles, some set screws or clamps. You could build a whole tents worth of those for the price of 1, maybe 1 1/2 of those..... and not wait until April.


1st im most definitely not taking my tent apart to put up a new 1 half way through my bloom. 2nd u still have the same problem of not maximising the space of your 4x4 if you was to buy it. i realised its not just about having more space its about getting the most out of what you have. I've bought 2 packs for pocket change, 1 per side. that i will most defiantly get my money back and more from yield. bigger tent means i need a bigger out take fan... also meaning more money and more noise! id rather save the hassle instead of doing it my self (which I have done in the past), same way you can make your own veg and bloom food for quarter of the retail price. seems like your being slightly ignorant dude & cheap. i can put 1 of them behind my fan aswell to stop it touching my tent reducing my pressure. (by the way a 3m x 3m secret jardin tent which is smaller, cost £450!!) 

EACH TO THERE OWN I GUESS, WISH U THE BEST OF LUCK!


----------



## Participant (Dec 31, 2016)

Infantilebehavior said:


> ...(pic #1) Some kinda conduit holding clips. Was found in the electrical section. Lightbulb! They looked like they'd clip perfectly to tent poles.. So I bought two to test out. They fit. So I bought 6 more. For a total of $4. I used 3/16 steel rods that I had laying around. U could use 1/8" or 1/4" or anywhere in between. Depending on tent size this could run anywhere from $20 to a bunch. I just happened to have some that fit perfectly. I cut the rods to about 1" longer then width of tent. Bowed a little. So when u clip them on they will bow outwards like 4-5". This not only held my walls from caving in but placed in the right spot gave me MORE grow space in my little 4x2 tent. Although 48"x24" at the bottom and top, my "canopy space" has increased to around 56" and 30" at center. U can also moved them up and down. Add more. Remove them in 5 seconds if needed.. I am stoked about this and just thought I'd share my recent discovery.


brilliant. this is re-purposing at its finest.

are these ones on amazon the same? http://a.co/7fPGrJO 3/4"


----------



## Participant (Jan 13, 2017)

@*I*nfantilebehavior 

are these ones on amazon the same? http://a.co/7fPGrJO 3/4" they come in 1/2" too
sorry about 2nd post, i could not edit the one above


----------



## Babygunn3r (Mar 31, 2021)

GreenLogician said:


> Hey everyone. I have a grow tent, with an exhaust fan and passive intakes.
> The walls suck in, reducing my grow space.
> What would you suggest I use to prop them out?
> An easy solution would be some long straight pipe or something I run from one corner rod to a neighboring rod, holding the wall flat.
> ...


----------



## hotrodharley (Apr 2, 2021)

Use a smaller fan eh?


----------



## MICHI-CAN (Apr 2, 2021)

5 years later??? I'm confused. 

How about 2 4packs of cheap cam lock cargo straps. Drawn diagonally between corners with 2 straps per side. Increases structural rigidity and prevents contraction of walls. Only issue is you have minor barrier entering the tent. LMAO. It's late.


----------



## Rabeats2093 (Apr 2, 2021)

Dude adjustable curtain rods just bend them around your frame of tent ! You’re welcome


----------



## Rabeats2093 (Apr 2, 2021)

MICHI-CAN said:


> 5 years later??? I'm confused.
> 
> How about 2 4packs of cheap cam lock cargo straps. Drawn diagonally between corners with 2 straps per side. Increases structural rigidity and prevents contraction of walls. Only issue is you have minor barrier entering the tent. LMAO. It's late.


For the people in the back hahah


----------



## tyke1973 (Apr 2, 2021)

Have the same sized inlet has out let


----------



## JSB99 (Apr 2, 2021)

tyke1973 said:


> Have the same sized inlet has out let


I always thought the general rule was twice the inlet per outlet for passive systems, and the same size for active systems.


----------

