# Dyna-Gro vs General Hydroponics (Dumpster Grow)



## homebrewer (Aug 17, 2010)

This isn&#8217;t literally a GH/DynaGro face off, but it _is_ a test to see if a complete nutrient line from DynaGro can compete with the results I get from my GH products. I&#8217;ll be using three DynaGro products; their Bloom formula (3-12-6), Mag-pro (2-15-4) and Pro-Tekt (0-0-3) and using them in the ratios suggested in their feeding schedule. Currently I use 7 different products from GH when my plants are in flower and I really like the idea of simplifying the whole process. While those seven GH products perform extremely well and are reasonably priced ($70/grow), DynaGro would be half the price and half the bottles. I&#8217;ll be drawing a lot of comparisons between GH and DynaGro throughout this grow in regards to pH stability, salt build up, plant performance, plant health, etc. 

I&#8217;ll be growing a strain that is legendary back in Ohio called Dumpster (for more info on Dumpster: http://en.seedfinder.eu/strain-info/Dumpster/Clone_Only_Strains/) which I&#8217;ve grown dozens of times with my GH line. I have lots of photos and detailed notes from previous grows, these will be the basis for a lot of my comparisons. 

My setup is a DIY Ebb & Flow system with 6 inch rockwool cubes and a 600 watt HPS hortilux. I flood twice per day for 15 minutes. These plants were topped in veg and get supercropped until week 3 in flower. Let the contest begin!

***These plants were vegged with GH veg nutes.

EDIT: I should add that this experiment is for the blooming phase only and the six ladies below are going into their 1st full day of flower today. It's a 60 day strain.


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## homebrewer (Aug 17, 2010)

Here are the three products:



...and the ladies.


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## billcollector99 (Aug 17, 2010)

That Purple gro turned out nicely, I hope to ee this one through to the end


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## warnerwh (Aug 17, 2010)

I will be interested to see results.


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## mr.smileyface (Aug 17, 2010)

You should have bought conoisseur by advanced nutes.
Its expensive but its worth it. Some of people are really getting a gram per watt with digital ballasts and this stuff. And with Purple kush. A strain that is unknown to get those results. He was getting 1.8 with out digital and now he is getting 2.2. You have to understand a gram per watt is differnt when you have 20 lights in one room. All that light adds up. Usually shows like that have alot of a.c and co2 to match the lights!


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## KingIV20 (Aug 17, 2010)

Awesome I'm definitely interested in this experiment! Good stuff Homebrewer - subbed and excited to see how Dyna-Gro does in comparison to your GH formula!


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## billcollector99 (Aug 17, 2010)

mr.smileyface said:


> You should have bought conoisseur by advanced nutes.
> Its expensive but its worth it. Some of people are really getting a gram per watt with digital ballasts and this stuff. And with Purple kush. A strain that is unknown to get those results. He was getting 1.8 with out digital and now he is getting 2.2. You have to understand a gram per watt is differnt when you have 20 lights in one room. All that light adds up. Usually shows like that have alot of a.c and co2 to match the lights!


Hmm seems someone isnt aware of HB's feeling towards AN, lol.


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## mr.smileyface (Aug 17, 2010)

billcollector99 said:


> Hmm seems someone isnt aware of HB's feeling towards AN, lol.


 No but im aware of everyone elses feelings towards AN because they are actually getting a gram per watt. And that is in sunshine mix4


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## homebrewer (Aug 17, 2010)

Guys, I appriciate you following along as this experiment is as much for me as it is for the community. But I would ask that you _please_ keep your nutrient comments to yourself, unless your comments are specifically in regards to the Dyna-Gro products above and you're commenting because you've used them before. I guess comments about GH would be relevant as well.

Next update in 1 week, thanks!


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## BayGuerilla (Aug 17, 2010)

what's up Homebrewer im subd for this. I was watching your last purple urkle grow also and that bud looked super dank. + Rep!


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## MoppinSauce (Aug 18, 2010)

If this turns out half as dank as the last round we're still in for a treat. With your thumb as green as it is you could use MG and still get results. Don't let the product reps get to you.


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## surphin (Aug 18, 2010)

Hell yes, been waiting for a comparison grow using dyna-gro products. This is going to be interesting to watch. HB is there a certain number you're hoping to beat?


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## homebrewer (Aug 18, 2010)

surphin said:


> Hell yes, been waiting for a comparison grow using dyna-gro products. This is going to be interesting to watch. HB is there a certain number you're hoping to beat?


 Thanks for following along fellas!

As far as weight is concerned, the dumpster strain always yields right around 16 - 16.5 ounces on a 600. So if there was a benchmark for yield, it would be around 450 grams.


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## RastaMonsta (Aug 18, 2010)

nice man, im all about the cheaper nutrients and less bottles thing! Is Dyna grow one of the cheapest on the market? may i ask why you choose that line of nutes out of all of them? im looking forward to seeing your results.


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## surphin (Aug 18, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> Thanks for following along fellas!
> 
> As far as weight is concerned, the dumpster strain always yields right around 16 - 16.5 ounces on a 600. So if there was a benchmark for yield, it would be around 450 grams.


Cool and with your notes and grow expeirence with this strain I'm sure you'll be able to tell us any other difference you may notice. Ever try dyna-gro protek? I just started trying this stuff out on some clones in veg, interested in what the extra silica will do.


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## homebrewer (Aug 18, 2010)

RastaMonsta said:


> nice man, im all about the cheaper nutrients and less bottles thing! Is Dyna grow one of the cheapest on the market? may i ask why you choose that line of nutes out of all of them? im looking forward to seeing your results.


 Uncle Ben has recommended it in some of his posts as it's a complete fertilizer. Between the 3 bottles in the picture, there are 16 macro and micro nutrients in there, I think GH has 10. Will the 'more compete' nutrient line make a difference? We shall see!

In regards to price, GH isn't unreasonable at all and if I was _only_ using 3 bottles from GH to flower with, the price difference would be negligible, I think. I haven't done the math yet.


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## DaveCoulier (Aug 18, 2010)

Count me a subscribed. Ive been wanting to see how Dyna Grow performs.


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## electropyro (Aug 21, 2010)

Am gonna be sticking around... am using dyna-gro with mine and i wanna see your results.


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## billcollector99 (Aug 21, 2010)

Hey HB i just got a free bottle of GH Koolbloom, I was wondering what you would recommend for dosing on the first use?


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## oJUICEBOXo (Aug 21, 2010)

....subbed


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## electropyro (Aug 22, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> This isnt literally a GH/DynaGro face off, but it _is_ a test to see if a complete nutrient line from DynaGro can compete with the results I get from my GH products. Ill be using three DynaGro products; their Bloom formula (3-12-6), Mag-pro (2-15-4) and Pro-Tekt (0-0-3) and using them in the ratios suggested in their feeding schedule. Currently I use 7 different products from GH when my plants are in flower and I really like the idea of simplifying the whole process. While those seven GH products perform extremely well and are reasonably priced ($70/grow), DynaGro would be half the price and half the bottles. Ill be drawing a lot of comparisons between GH and DynaGro throughout this grow in regards to pH stability, salt build up, plant performance, plant health, etc.
> 
> Ill be growing a strain that is legendary back in Ohio called Dumpster (for more info on Dumpster: http://en.seedfinder.eu/strain-info/Dumpster/Clone_Only_Strains/) which Ive grown dozens of times with my GH line. I have lots of photos and detailed notes from previous grows, these will be the basis for a lot of my comparisons.
> 
> ...


i saw that it said 60 day strain.. is this an autofloweing plant?


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## homebrewer (Aug 22, 2010)

electropyro said:


> i saw that it said 60 day strain.. is this an autofloweing plant?


 60 day flowering period.


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## homebrewer (Aug 23, 2010)

Today is day 7 of 60 and things look just fine. This strain tends to stretch a little in flower so Ive been doing my best to supercrop for an even canopy. After only seven days, I cant make a lot of comparisons between the two nutes lines based on plant health and structure. However, I did notice two things so far about Dyna-Gro that I really like. First, the nutes are basically colorless and odorless and when added to the reservoir, the water remains crystal-clear. There is something very sterile and clean that I like about that. My GH reservoirs in the past tend to be a little messy and almost beat red in color. In their defense, I use a few organic products of theirs and thats just the nature of the beast. 

The second thing I noticed with Dyna-Gro is their excellent pH stability. After mixing my nutes 7 days ago, the pH of the res naturally came to a 5.6. I prefer 5.8 but I figured Id see where the pH goes after a day or two. The following day it was 5.8 and it stayed at 5.8 five out of seven days with zero adjustments. I never adjusted the pH of the Dyna-Gro res, whereas with GH, Id usually adjust at least 3 days out of the week.

*Dyna-Gro Reservior pH throughout the past week*
Monday - 5.6 (after mixing all the nutes together in the res)
Tuesday - 5.8
Wednesday - 5.7
Thursday - 5.8
Friday - 5.8
Saturday  5.8
Sunday  5.8

*General Hydroponics pH throughout the past week*
Monday - 5.8 (after mixing all the nutes together in the res)
Tuesday - 6.5 (adjusted to 5.8 )
Wednesday - 6.3 (adjusted to 5.8 )
Thursday  6.1 (adjusted to 5.8 )
Friday - 5.8
Saturday  5.8
Sunday  5.8

The nutrient ratios according to the Dyna-Gro feeding schedule change a little in the upcoming weeks so well see if the the pH stability remains perfect at the other ratios. 

Thats really all Ive got for now, here are the ladies:







Next update in a week.


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## sappytreetree (Aug 23, 2010)

Man about time somebody put dyna grow to the test your my hero man


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## sunkistnsudafed (Aug 23, 2010)

I recently got to enjoy some Dumpster (Ohio guy here) and it was an excellent smoke. I can't wait to see how this turns out. Those are some sexy plants.


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## DaveCoulier (Aug 23, 2010)

Your ladies look great Homebrewer. 

I like the detailed notes your providing. Keep it up.


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## electropyro (Aug 23, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> 60 day flowering period.


Thanks for clarifying it for me.. i was a bit confused.. thanks for the update too i notice the same thing about my nutes when using dyna-gro.. i dont have to stabilize my ph or anything... +rep


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## bigsourD (Aug 23, 2010)

They are looking good!


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## shnkrmn (Aug 23, 2010)

I've been growing in flood and drain with the Dynagro line for quite a while now. My results are so satisfying I wouldn't be interested in any further supplements or other nutrient lines; I've saved a buttload of money. 

HB, you are right about the pH stability. Dynagro is rock solid and it's very clean. I don't run it higher than 1250ppm during bloom; you don't really need more than that. When I change my res after two weeks at that concentration I find a fine, white sediment on the bottom of the res, the tray, the outsides of my pots, and presumably my hydroton as well. I'd like to know what that precipitate is. My res is 25 gallons. Have you had this experience too?


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## homebrewer (Aug 23, 2010)

shnkrmn said:


> I've been growing in flood and drain with the Dynagro line for quite a while now. My results are so satisfying I wouldn't be interested in any further supplements or other nutrient lines; I've saved a buttload of money.
> 
> HB, you are right about the pH stability. Dynagro is rock solid and it's very clean. I don't run it higher than 1250ppm during bloom; you don't really need more than that. When I change my res after two weeks at that concentration I find a fine, white sediment on the bottom of the res, the tray, the outsides of my pots, and presumably my hydroton as well. I'd like to know what that precipitate is. My res is 25 gallons. Have you had this experience too?


 What is your feeding schedule like? My first res change will be tonight and my res is still crystal clear. As far as sediment goes, I was told by a very knowledgeable gentleman from Dyna-Gro to mix Pro-tekt into the res first, then add the other 2 products in whatever order I'd like. I guess nutrients will bond and precipitate out of solution if pro-tekt isn't added first. Maybe that is what you're seeing?


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## surphin (Aug 23, 2010)

shnkrmn said:


> HB, you are right about the pH stability. Dynagro is rock solid and it's very clean. I don't run it higher than 1250ppm during bloom; you don't really need more than that. When I change my res after two weeks at that concentration I find a fine, white sediment on the bottom of the res, the tray, the outsides of my pots, and presumably my hydroton as well. I'd like to know what that precipitate is. My res is 25 gallons. Have you had this experience too?


Hey shnkrmn do you use tap water, also do see any of the sediment on the sides of your res near the top? Like after a few days, when it may need topping off? Just asking because it sounds like hardwater build-up.

Looking good HB, keep up the good work. I dig the ph stability you're seeing and really like the fact the nutes are clear. Don't know why GH likes to color some of their stuff, it might not be harmful, but I doubt it's helpful.


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## shnkrmn (Aug 23, 2010)

I use (sort of) the Dynagro feeding schedule for nonrecirculating systems. http://www.dyna-gro.com/Website pdf Files/DG Hydroponic Feeding Schedule.pdf

This is for recirculating systems:

Recirculating 

* GRO BLM TEK MAG KLN*
Week 1 *7.5ml 0ml.* *2.5ml 0ml* *5ml (650ppm)*
Week 2 *10ml 0ml* *2.5ml 0ml* *5ml (830ppm)*
Week 3 *12.5ml 0ml 5ml 0ml 0ml (1000ppm)*
Week 4 *15ml 0ml 5ml 0ml 0ml (1180ppm)*
FLOWER
Week 1 0ml *12.5ml 5ml 2.5ml 0ml (1170ppm)*
Week 2 0ml *12.5ml 5ml 2.5ml 0ml(1170ppm)*
Week 3 0ml *15ml 5ml 5ml 0ml(1500ppm)*
Week 4 0ml *15ml 5ml 5ml 0ml (1500ppm)*
Week 5 0ml *15ml 5ml 5ml 0ml(1500ppm)*
Week 6 0ml *15ml 5ml 5ml 0ml (1500ppm)*
Week 7 0ml *12.5ml 5ml 5ml 0ml(1310ppm)*
Week8 *FLUSH FLUSH FLUSH FLUSH FLUSH*

Personally, I would be wary of going up to 1500 ppm, not all strains might like that. . . .

I use RO water, so it's not hard water scale. I have a feeling I only get that buildup at the highest concentration solution. At any rate, I'm not that concerned since my plants are not affected. A little mineral sludge is better than some of the things I've gotten in my tank from other preparations. Another outside possibility is it could be precip caused by the 4ml of bleach I add to my res every 4 days. My solution is always as clear when I throw it out as when I make it . . . . .


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## homebrewer (Aug 23, 2010)

That's almost the exact schedule I'm using except the feeding schedule I have doesn't take MagPro over 2.5mls which leaves the ppm around 1400? I don't really know, I don't have a TDS meter. Thanks for posting that, could be a reference point to tweak if I feel that one of my strains could handle more food. In the meantime, I'll stick with the schedule I have as the plants seem to be handling it just fine.


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## electropyro (Aug 23, 2010)

shnkrmn said:


> I use (sort of) the Dynagro feeding schedule for nonrecirculating systems. http://www.dyna-gro.com/Website pdf Files/DG Hydroponic Feeding Schedule.pdf
> 
> This is for recirculating systems:
> 
> ...


Love it.. been looking for this feeding schedule.. +rep thanks .


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## Short Bus (Aug 30, 2010)

Always interested in a little science experiment. Subbed.


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## homebrewer (Aug 30, 2010)

Its day 14 of 60 and the ladies still look very nice. Last weeks reservoir change was a breeze compared to what Ive been used to. The water when draining was as clean and clear as the day I filled it up and the pH stability is making these nutes a set it and forget it growing experience. Except I guess I havent even had to set it. The pH naturally falls into my preferred range. 

From a plant heath perspective, the only difference at the moment is that the DynaGro (DG) girls are starting to go a little nitrogen deficient as seen by the lighter green leaves at the bottom of the plants. If this was a 3 part system, I'd just increase the micro or grow part which would be the easy fix. Today is a res change and the DG feeding schedule calls for an increase in the food so well see if that takes care of the lighter leaves at the bottom. As you can see, the first pic below is some AK47 (grown with GH) at the same age as the dumpster and other than the differences in their growth structure and the even color top-to-bottom; all plants in both trays appear to be doing great. 

Dyna-Gro Reservior pH throughout the past week

*Monday* - 5.7 (after mixing all the nutes together in the res)
*Tuesday* - 5.8
*Wednesday* - 5.8
*Thursday* - 5.8
*Friday*  5.8
*Saturday*  5.8
*Sunday*  5.8

As with the GH reservoir, I top off with about 1 gallon of tap water per day. Im also not posting the GH daily pH because after working with it for a few years now, the previous pH schedule from GH is typically how theyve always performed. 

Here are the AK47 ladies being grown with GH:





Here are the Dumpster ladies being grown with Dyna-Gro:



Dumpster canopy: 



Next update in a week.


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## shnkrmn (Aug 30, 2010)

It's the Protekt that's keeping the pH so stable. Since I added that to the mix I've had the most stable pH ever. I just set up a res 5 days ago and set it at 6.1, 470 ppm and that's where it's at 4 days later. The water level has dropped but the ppm and pH has remained the same. Great stuff. My little guys are loving it.


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## RastaMonsta (Sep 2, 2010)

dude i really cant tell the difference lol (im a noob).the ak47 looks dope as hell. how many grows do you run at once? the reflector on top of the AK looks scrawny as hell compared to the one on top of the dumpster.are they both 600's? why dont u have reflective material on the AK? sorry for all the questions. I'm in love with your setup.i show my girlfreind all your updates cuz i want to copy your setup for my next house.you've given me alot of inspiration and motivation. i wanna be just like you when i grow up


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## homebrewer (Sep 2, 2010)

*how many grows do you run at once?* A few 
*the reflector on top of the AK looks scrawny as hell compared to the one on top of the dumpster.are they both 600's?* Yes, both 600's and while the hydrofarm hood has better light distribution, the 'scrawny hood' also performs VERY well. It's a 9 year old hood/balast and I've been thinking about replacing the hood but this one works great. I'm in no hurry.
*why dont u have reflective material on the AK? * I do, the plants are just taller than the mylar. I recently moved some things around and used to have 9 dirt plants in that spot which were lower to the ground. If I get around to it, I'll put some mylar up there but I think I'm out right now.


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## gumball (Sep 2, 2010)

Nice and subbed. I know you started this in flower, but would you consider using the 9-3-6 Foliage Pro by dyna-gro? They have a 7-9-5 grow nute also, but I like the N level in the Foliage Pro.


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## RastaMonsta (Sep 2, 2010)

damnn,you smoke like a boss!!!! i need to step my game up!!!


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## homebrewer (Sep 2, 2010)

gumball said:


> Nice and subbed. I know you started this in flower, but would you consider using the 9-3-6 Foliage Pro by dyna-gro? They have a 7-9-5 grow nute also, but I like the N level in the Foliage Pro.


 My local shops don't carry the foliage pro so I was thinking about ordering some for the same nitrogen value that you like. I'd like to add a touch during flowering as I don't think the 3-12-6 is keeping them as green top-to-bottom as my GH 3-part.


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## gumball (Sep 2, 2010)

Mine didn't carry the foliage pro either, but I can still buy it from them and wait for them to order it. The bonus I got outta this was I didn't have to pay shipping, which for a $19 quart it is $10 shipping. So I didn't mind waiting an extra few days to save on shipping. May be an option for you if you ask them.


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## canucks420 (Sep 4, 2010)

nice lookn plants. they are so tall and lanky that they must be sativa but they have a relatively short flower time.

i cant wait to see how this turns out. i wanna try dyna-grow's line-up next grow but ill have to ask the hydro shop if they can order it.


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## RastaMonsta (Sep 6, 2010)

homebrewer, i have a skunk #1 that just sprouted in rockwool cube,when should i throw it into soil? do i need to wait till i see a root coming from the bottom of the cube?


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## bigsourD (Sep 6, 2010)

gumball said:


> Mine didn't carry the foliage pro either, but I can still buy it from them and wait for them to order it. The bonus I got outta this was I didn't have to pay shipping, which for a $19 quart it is $10 shipping. So I didn't mind waiting an extra few days to save on shipping. May be an option for you if you ask them.


I wish my store actually carried Dynagro so I don't have to order online, ha.



RastaMonsta said:


> homebrewer, i have a skunk #1 that just sprouted in rockwool cube,when should i throw it into soil? do i need to wait till i see a root coming from the bottom of the cube?


Yeah, I usually wait until they establish a good root system before I transplant.


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## homebrewer (Sep 6, 2010)

Today is day 21 of 60. This past week I made a trip to the Hydro store to pick up some DynaGro liquid grow (7-9-5). The liquid bloom is keeping the plants canopy very healthy but I need to supplement some more nitrogen as the girls are starting to go a little N-deficient towards the bottom of the plants. 

Slightly N deficient, taken late last week:





Added some 7-9-5 late last week which helped a little (taken today):





Now if this were day 45, I wouldn't care too much but at day 16 when I noticed a little leaf-drop and some lighter green leaves, it's something that I need to correct. The 7-9-5 is a nice ratio because Im not sacrificing a lot of phosphorus and Im doubling the nitrogen. I plan on substituting the Liquid grow for the liquid bloom ml-for-ml so this wouldnt change the cost of the grow. So instead of the straight 15mls of bloom for the reservoir change tonight, Ill be figuring out some ratio of grow to bloom (totaling 15 mls/gallon) to see how the plants respond to the added nitrogen. As far as my GH feeding schedule, the amount of Micro that I use during the flowering stage keeps the plants green from start to finish which is a nice advantage to any 3-part line out there. Using the DG grow and bloom during flowering almost turns it into a 2-part feeding program and gives a grower a little more control. 


Pictures from today:







The pH continues to be something that is rock solid and something I dont even bother checking everyday. Twenty-one days now with not a single pH adjustment, I almost feel like Im wasting my time by even checking it at all . 

A product that Im really liking so far is the pro-tekt. I was told over the phone by DynaGro that the silicon in the protekt increases the strength of the cell wall as well as sturdys-up the whole plant. It adds a level of resistance to bugs by making it harder for them to get into the leaf? Once theyre in there, they dont like what they find and move on. Whether any of this is true or not, the Dumpster girls are mite free whereas the AK47 girls have a few here and there. Mites are something I keep-at-bay by spraying weekly and bombing every 2 weeks. Years ago I lost half a crop to mites but these days they dont do any damage, theyre just a nuisance. 

And some slight tric development even at day 21:



Next update in a week. Cheers!


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## gumball (Sep 6, 2010)

looks real good homebrewer


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## surphin (Sep 6, 2010)

Looking good HB. What kind of bomb product do you use? I've had some good success with Attain tr fogger. The stuff is expensive though.


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## KingIV20 (Sep 6, 2010)

yeah man looking real good. Thats good you solved the N deficiency problem with that DynaGro Liquid grow.
Thats interesting about DynaGro supposedly helping prevent pests and such...might be coincidence that there aren't any bugs in your DynaGro grow, and there are in the GH one....or it might be evidence. We shall see.
Good work Homebrew.


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## homebrewer (Sep 6, 2010)

surphin said:


> Looking good HB. What kind of bomb product do you use? I've had some good success with Attain tr fogger. The stuff is expensive though.


 Thanks guys. 

As for a fogger, I use DoktorDoom or Pyrethrum TR, depending on which is in stock. Again, the mites will pop up on a leaf here and there but are not an issue these days. I'll keep you posted about the ProTekt as I've started using with my GH nutes in veg.


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## talon (Sep 7, 2010)

I'm excited to see the Pro-tekt being used with the GH nutes. If it all turns out right, I'll probably pick a bottle up myself.


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## 714Skyhi (Sep 7, 2010)

Your ladies are lookin NICE...


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## stillgamble (Sep 8, 2010)

ill be watchin looks good bro keep up the good work and info


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## Imaulle (Sep 11, 2010)

subscribed !!


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## dog (Sep 13, 2010)

im at day 17 in flower with my grow, so its good fun looking over hear, as your about a 1.1/2 week in front of me,,,so im subscribed!!


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## homebrewer (Sep 13, 2010)

Today is day 28 of 60. This is the first full week where Ive mixed the grow and the bloom nutes together and the plants seem to be doing very well. The grow formula tends to naturally mix and rest at about a 5.5 pH so this week was my first pH adjustment. One initial adjustment and the res stayed where I put it for the entire week, gotta love that. Both trays are doing fine but the pics might make the DG seem a little more productive than the GH. Different strains and different nutes but I promise that AK47 will be beautiful at the end. She tends to be slow and steady but shell be impressive in a month. The AKs are also about 4 days younger than the Dumpster strain and 4 days can make a big difference.

I dont have much to report other than Im pretty impressed so far with DG. So much so that I just picked up a few more bottles for future testing. Thus far, working with DG has been a cake-walk and based on the progress of the Dumpster strain, I cant see how this DG line is in any way inferior to the GH line. Of course its too early to call anything as Im interested in the final appearance, aroma and weight. 










Here is the AK47 tray. They were a little big when I put them into the tray and as a result, theyre quite tall and will need tied up this week. The leaves look great and the flower production seems normal. This strain is a little touchy when it comes to nutes so some burn is bound to happen here in a few weeks. So far so good. One thing I like about 3-part systems is that it really allows you to push or pull back certain nutes that the plant seems to have or be lacking. These are a little more green top-to-bottom and theyre also getting a healthy amount of P and K at the same time. 








Cheers, next update in a week.


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## gumball (Sep 13, 2010)

Good things homebrewer! Glad to see such pretty greens!


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## dog (Sep 13, 2010)

homebrewer looking very health and good bud size for 28 day's,,,nice!!


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## KingIV20 (Sep 13, 2010)

The science experiment is looking bomb man! keep up that good work with those nutes


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## Mazar i Shariff (Sep 13, 2010)

What up brother ... I finally found it! I'll be subscribing to these, and look forward to seeing your pic updates and final results of the test! 

FYI, I was tellin ya a while back about my buddy who switched from Advanced and Botanicare products to Dyna Gro ONLY, and funny enough when we talked today he said he ended up using the exact three products you recommended to me and are using for your current test. He had AMAZING results. Swears his Sour Bubble Bx3 was as good as it could get, with the God Bud right there next to it in end results. Said overall vegetation, nutrient uptake, & growth rates were awesome 

Keep it up! And i'll have my own order of these three on the way in a day or two here so that I can testify to my own results! While it won't be a full grow with them to start, I'll take a pic the day before I start feeding them and keep updating throughout and we'll see how they look in the final 4-6 weeks 

One love everybody


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## SinisterLion (Sep 15, 2010)

Nice comparison grow, bravo, been waiting for something comparing Dyna's products. If you visit one of the numerous departments of agriculture websites for the respective states, you can find a heavy metal analysis that shows that a lot of products like the GH lines that do not claim the presence of certain micro nutrients, specifically in this case boron and nickel are actually present in them, however in levels that may not qualify for the labeling standards of all the places they're sold.

Here is a tinyurl link to the Department of Agriculture for Oregon State, if you click on the various GH products you will see what I am talking about. *http://tinyurl.com/29am9ax

*I first noticed Dyna's products when I was looking in my furthering personal research to find a complete nutrient, I was pleased to see they contain Nickel which has been deemed a required micro-nutrient that is linked to seed maturation, as well as Zinc uptake, Zinc which is linked to Iron, Iron which is critical, this may explain why so many seeds on the open market do not germinate properly, as they may be from massively Nickel deficient mother plants.

Good luck with the completion of the grow, I will be watching avidly, and thank you again.


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## venacular (Sep 16, 2010)

Hey and thanks for all of the info. 

I have used GH 3 part Grow, Bloom, Micro in the past and had great results using their waterfarm units. Some of the plants were absolute monsters! I just have questions about the GH nutes your using.

I noticed you said your using 7 different GH nutes in flower. Can you please list those? Also the grow formulas your using? I read all the posts but didn't see your info pertaining to which GH products you are using in this grow-off. Are you using all 7 GH products for this test or only the base 3? Please provide more info about what GH products your using for this grow

I'm going to sub because there is too much good info to miss. Thanks for sharing!


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## Reckless (Sep 16, 2010)

This is a really useful and informative thread. Thanks for documenting this homebrewer!
Subscribed


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## homebrewer (Sep 16, 2010)

venacular said:


> Hey and thanks for all of the info.
> 
> I have used GH 3 part Grow, Bloom, Micro in the past and had great results using their waterfarm units. Some of the plants were absolute monsters! I just have questions about the GH nutes your using.
> 
> ...


 I use the following in my GH trays:

Grow
Micro 
Bloom
FloraBlend
Floralicious Bloom
Floralicious Plus
KoolBloom
Botanicare's Sweet
KoolBloom Dry

While I've tested each to test their worth, I'd like to steer away from the complicated schedule of all these nutrients. They all work and _do_ make a difference and that's why I use them. I am hoping with this Dynagro grow that I can simplify things and make things easier on myself. Even with all the products listed, DG is still a more complete line at less than half the bottles and cost. Hopefully the results allow me to simplify. But I will say that GH has treated me very well and I don't have much room to complain. Either way, GH gets my respect.


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## venacular (Sep 16, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> I use the following in my GH trays:
> 
> Grow
> Micro
> ...



I can see why you want to simplify. Knowing your GH schedule I want the results of this test even more. Do you have any opinion yet on possibly using any other nutes with your future DG grows? I understand you may not yet. I do like to see your ph with DG is very simply kept as I cannot stand constant ph upkeep. Good luck on your grow and thanks again for the comparison.


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## homebrewer (Sep 16, 2010)

venacular said:


> I can see why you want to simplify. Knowing your GH schedule I want the results of this test even more. Do you have any opinion yet on possibly using any other nutes with your future DG grows? I understand you may not yet. I do like to see your ph with DG is very simply kept as I cannot stand constant ph upkeep. Good luck on your grow and thanks again for the comparison.


 If I were to use anything else in addition to the DG line, it would probably be either the flocalicious plus and/or the florablend. Sea kelp, fulvic acid type stuff. Maybe some Sweet if I don't like what I see at harvest. Who knows? Things are looking healthy so far so hopefully I can just use this stuff up and be done with it.


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## homebrewer (Sep 20, 2010)

Today is day 35 of 60 and Im pretty happy with the progress thus far. I posted a comparison picture below and have more in the weeks to come, but it looks like the DG line is performing very close to the GH line in regards to resin and weight at this stage. The resin content of the GH bud may be slightly better, but if at harvest there is a difference, Ill at least know what to add to my DG res to make up that difference. As for potential yield, the DG is performing extremely well and I might give them the slight advantage at this point. Too early to call of course.

The DynaGro pH stability remains rock-solid and is something that just doesnt move more than 1/10th of a point. My GH res continues to need 3-4 adjustments per week but thats no surprise after using it as long as I have. I don't have any AK47 shots this week but they look great and are coming along as expected.


The nights are getting cooler here which means the bugs like to come inside. Ive had some small battles around my room with mites but the interesting thing is that the reservoirs where Im using Pro-Tekt are staying mite-free. I treat my entire room the same, bomb every 2 weeks and spray once per week. Ill keep you posted but Im happy to report that the silicon additive seems to be performing as advertised. 

Lastly, I mentioned in a previous post that I've been mixing the grow and bloom formula to get a higher nitrogen content during this flowering phase. This week I'll be cutting the ratio back favoring more of the P and K and the goal is to tapper-off to 100% bloom formula for the last 2 weeks or so. Hopefully that's enough N to support foliage. 

Next update in a week. Cheers!







*Resin shot:*


*GH nutes:* (dumpster day 36)



*DG nutes:*


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## RastaMonsta (Sep 20, 2010)

i love the way you break things down.keep up the good work!


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## Illumination (Sep 20, 2010)

Very nice plants and awesome comparison HB...thanx for being the helpful knowledgeable soul that you are...great job 

Namaste'


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## bigsourD (Sep 20, 2010)

Do you think the resin differences could be strain? I guess you really wouldn't know for sure. But nice looking plants man! As awlays


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## homebrewer (Sep 20, 2010)

bigsourD said:


> Do you think the resin differences could be strain? I guess you really wouldn't know for sure. But nice looking plants man! As awlays


 The comparison pictures are the same strain. Cloned from the same mother. Maybe the GH picture is just a better angle? Better lighting? We'll see in the upcoming weeks. This strain gets unnecessarily frosty so if I have 10% less resin at the end, I'll still have a shiz-load of resin . 

Thanks for following along fellas.


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## bigsourD (Sep 20, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> The comparison pictures are the same strain. Cloned from the same mother. Maybe the GH picture is just a better angle? Better lighting? We'll see in the upcoming weeks. This strain gets unnecessarily frosty so if I have 10% less resin at the end, I'll still have a shiz-load of resin .
> 
> Thanks for following along fellas.


Ha oh I see, but the real test is the smoke test in the end. Oh and I have a question. How long did you veg for?


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## KingIV20 (Sep 20, 2010)

The experiment is going great Homebrew! That dyna-gro is actually pretty impressive next to your recipe. Good work man, and good luck keeping those bugs out!


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## surphin (Sep 20, 2010)

Looks great HB, you use tap water correct? It is impressive that the dyna-gro is so ph stable with tap water. 

I don't recall if you are using anything that has humic/fulvic acid in the dyna-gro res?


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## Sure Shot (Sep 20, 2010)

I've been using Dyna-gro for a few harvest now.
I can say with some certainty that the only deficiency I've ever experienced was from Nitrogen, while using just bloom.
Last time, I included Humboldt Nutrients Verde. There was zero signs deficiency.
Good luck and happy growing!


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## homebrewer (Sep 20, 2010)

surphin said:


> Looks great HB, you use tap water correct? It is impressive that the dyna-gro is so ph stable with tap water.
> 
> I don't recall if you are using anything that has humic/fulvic acid in the dyna-gro res?


 Yep, just regular old tap water. My tap water is pretty average as far as mineral contents go. Also, I'm _not_ using a fulvic acid-type additive in the dynaGro res as I really just wanted to see how their products perform alone. That is something I may add on my next round since I went ahead and purchased a few more gallons of DG to work with in the future. I really like the floralicious stuff from GH and I have more than enough sitting around to test out.


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## surphin (Sep 20, 2010)

The humics in the floralicious is most likely why the plants grown on your GH line-up are more resiny at this stage of growth compared to the dyna-gro. But, looking at the comparison shots it is a marginal difference anyways. Besides this is about the final product, the proof is in the pudding and desert isn't here yet.


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## Pure (Sep 22, 2010)

Hey hb,

Still freakin' Nice dude.. I'm almost convinced on the DG Nutes, for vegging, as I deplete my Sensi Grow and additives I'll need to replace them maybe DG is the way to go. For flowering you are still using floralicious not DG. Do you plan on testing the DG or floralicious is that good that you'll simply stick with it?

Ciao,
Pure...


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## homebrewer (Sep 23, 2010)

Pure said:


> Hey hb,
> 
> Still freakin' Nice dude.. I'm almost convinced on the DG Nutes, for vegging, as I deplete my Sensi Grow and additives I'll need to replace them maybe DG is the way to go.  For flowering you are still using floralicious not DG. Do you plan on testing the DG or floralicious is that good that you'll simply stick with it?
> 
> ...


 For this particular grow, I vegged with GH nutes and am using the DG line for flowering. While vegging is an important stage in the growth process, I've found that I can get good results vegging with just about any nutrient out there. Your plant's needs during veg seem to be minimal and for me, the flowering stage is where a high quality nute line is key as that is when deficiencies and excess often occur. I just happen to use GH and botanicare for veg in this case. 

Off camera here, I am also testing to see how DG nutes work with floralicious plus and possibly sweet. I'm not saying they're needed but if I have those products that I know I already like sitting around, might as well test them too. I have a feeling at the end that the DynaGro line will at least replace my Grow, Micro, and Bloom nutes from GH for the sheer fact that DG's pH stability makes my life a lot easier.


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## RastaMonsta (Sep 23, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> For this particular grow, I vegged with GH nutes and am using the DG line for flowering. While vegging is an important stage in the growth process, I've found that I can get good results vegging with just about any nutrient out there. Your plant's needs during veg seem to be minimal and for me, the flowering stage is where a high quality nute line is key as that is when deficiencies and excess often occur. I just happen to use GH and botanicare for veg in this case.
> 
> Off camera here, I am also testing to see how DG nutes work with floralicious plus and possibly sweet. I'm not saying they're needed but if I have those products that I know I already like sitting around, might as well test them too. *I have a feeling at the end that the DynaGro line will at least replace my Grow, Micro, and Bloom nutes from GH for the sheer fact that DG's pH stability makes my life a lot easier*.


DG is less exspensive also rite? you dont fuck around with soil do you?


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## shnkrmn (Sep 23, 2010)

Dyna-gro works great in soil too. I feed it to my mothers.


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## Pure (Sep 23, 2010)

Ah Ok I got it. 
Totally understandable on the pH point. Not having to adjust the pH was one of the reasons I purchased Adv Nut. and after more and more reading I've just discovered that only a certain line from Adv Nut. has pH perfect. Not the SenSi line that's for [email protected]#king sure!! 
I guess even if the DG line doesn't produce the same buds on it's own there are choice additives to add from the many vendors. So the Dg can always be supplemented like your doing with the floralicious, but at least no more fucking drop drop drop pH adjustin'.

I will be vegging for at least another week, hopefully 2. That should give me some time to sit back and await your feedback..


Ciao,
Pure...


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## homebrewer (Sep 23, 2010)

RastaMonsta said:


> DG is less exspensive also rite? you dont fuck around with soil do you?


 If at the end of this comparison I find that the DG products can replace my entire GH line, then yes, DG is half the cost. But if I find that products like sweet, floraBlend and floralicious make enough of a difference that I'd want to keep some of them around, the cost could be about equal. The DG products that I'm using right now would allow me to get rid of Grow, Micro, Bloom, KoolBloom liquid and dry. Cost is hard to determine at this moment as final yield definitely plays a role. Yielding more with one brand at an equal cost makes that brand more efficient. I will say this though, DG is cheaper for veg, no doubt about that. And yes, I do mess around in the dirt and use Pure Blend pro products from Botanicare (dumpster plant below just harvested out of the dirt using PureBlend nutes). Next month I'll be testing DG in the dirt.


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## WWShadow (Sep 23, 2010)

HomeBrewer,
You and the other experienced growers on RIU just blow me away with the healthy look of your plants.


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## Illumination (Sep 23, 2010)

Simply beautiful my friend

Namaste'


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## nixusr (Sep 23, 2010)

HB, Man this is soo ridiculously educational! I was completely dumbfounded while trying to figure out what nutes to purchase for my first grow. By chance you answered my question in the noob section a few weeks ago and from there I stumble onto your comparison. 

Its good to see that you not only suggested for me to try DG because of the amount of hands off... you are also showing what DG can do. I'm sold! I really like the cost factor along with your posted results.


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## homebrewer (Sep 24, 2010)

These are the AK47's being grown with the GH line of nutes and I believe today is day 36 for them. Top-to-bottom, I couldn't ask them to be any greener and that is one of the reasons that I like 'multiple base formula' flowering lines. A small tweak here and there really allows you to cater to the plant's needs. As I mentioned in a previous post, I am using the DG grow and Bloom during the flowering period and I believe that is the best route in order to get the girls enough nitrogen during flowering. Currently I have some AK47s being grown with a 50/50 mix of DG's bloom and grow (resulting in an NPK ratio of 1-2-1) and the plants look outstanding. I'm also using floralicious plus on that grow and when they're done, I'll revisit this thread for a comparison. The pics below will be the benchmark if you will. As always, the GH res needs pH adjusted at _least_ 3 days per week but the end result is worth the extra effort. 


EDIT: I should also add that this strain is the best smelling strain that I've ever come across. Maybe those of you who have grown AK47 before can chime in as to if this is normal or not, but this particular pheno has a sweet grapefruit and ginger smell. Just intoxicating.


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## nixusr (Sep 24, 2010)

hb, are you using co2 at all? How important is it to add it into the flowering stage? For my first grow I am thinking of attempting it but I'm a tad intimidated. Not sure if I should try one of those bucket systems are just bare down and buy a tank.


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## homebrewer (Sep 24, 2010)

nixusr said:


> hb, are you using co2 at all? How important is it to add it into the flowering stage? For my first grow I am thinking of attempting it but I'm a tad intimidated. Not sure if I should try one of those bucket systems are just bare down and buy a tank.


 I've never grown in a sealed room and therefore have never been able to add additional CO2. Personally, I think CO2 is the last thing a grower should add _after_ everything else is dialed in. There are many basic skills like feeding, watering, cloning, pest control and providing the right environment that growers seem to always have problems with. I just think that the air we breathe already provides enough CO2 in order for our girls to yield big and yield a showcase-quality product. If I was growing in a closet or an area where CO2 could be depleted at some point, I'd just add an intake and exhaust fan. Just my two cents.


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## nixusr (Sep 24, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> I've never grown in a sealed room and therefore have never been able to add additional CO2. Personally, I think CO2 is the last thing a grower should add _after_ everything else is dialed in. There are many basic skills like feeding, watering, cloning, pest control and providing the right environment that growers seem to always have problems with. I just think that the air we breathe already provides enough CO2 in order for our girls to yield big and yield a showcase-quality product. If I was growing in a closet or an area where CO2 could be depleted at some point, I'd just add an intake and exhaust fan. Just my two cents.


Awesome! Thank you for dropping science! I will save the $$ this time around and just put energy into the basics.


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## RastaMonsta (Sep 24, 2010)

What kinda of light do you have above the dumpster in soil? 600w? are you getting close to the gpw with soil also?


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## homebrewer (Sep 24, 2010)

RastaMonsta said:


> What kinda of light do you have above the dumpster in soil? 600w? are you getting close to the gpw with soil also?


 I run 9 plants under a 600hps and yield an average of 2 oz per plant. Some plants directly under the light will be 3 ounces, maybe one on the outside yields 1.5 ounces, it varies. I don't really keep track as the dirt area is perpetual with strains that flower longer or shorter than others. In all honesty, the dirt area is more of just spill-over from taking too many clones to grow in my hydro trays. I like dirt but I find hydro to be easier, more consistent, and simple to dial-in.


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## KingIV20 (Sep 24, 2010)

Your plants are all looking amazing homebrew! I'm liking what I see with the DynaGro products, the pH stabilization and increased protection from bugs is always an added bonus!
Thanks for sharing your experiment and information with us!


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## Tiger Woods (Sep 25, 2010)

Good stuff I'll be watching this one. I was having a hard time deciding between lucas and dyna-gro. Ended up with lucas, wish id gone with dyna. I definitly will next go around not only for the extra micros it provides but ph stability and the pro-tek helps prevent mites, iam sold. I haven't encountered any problems using lucas iam going to switch for the reasons stated. Might even be cheaper as Homebrew said. We wnat know until the end, I can't wait.

Great thread

Peace and good vibes


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## Mazar i Shariff (Sep 25, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> I run 9 plants under a 600hps and yield an average of 2 oz per plant. Some plants directly under the light will be 3 ounces, maybe one on the outside yields 1.5 ounces, it varies. I don't really keep track as the dirt area is perpetual with strains that flower longer or shorter than others. In all honesty, the dirt area is more of just spill-over from taking too many clones to grow in my hydro trays. I like dirt but I find hydro to be easier, more consistent, and simple to dial-in.


As much as I love soil grows, I'd have to say the biggest stress it has brought me in the past is it's high susceptability to flies & insects. I've purchased premium soils stored indoors, continuously used organic insecticides & fly traps, and I still found myself having to clear the room at times and do a 4 hour fog. Never had bug problems like that with hydro, as many of them cannot reproduce if they don't have a soil enviornment to burrow into & lay eggs. 

Girs are looking good ... I look forward to seeing them all finished!


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## Medi 1 (Sep 25, 2010)

sub`d. i also do this as a job. testing products. will follow along and hopefully learn here.


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## notpatient (Sep 25, 2010)

Im in ,,,,,,,,,


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## RastaMonsta (Sep 27, 2010)

ready for my weeklly update


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## venacular (Sep 27, 2010)

RastaMonsta said:


> ready for my weeklly update



Hit Me HB!


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## homebrewer (Sep 27, 2010)

Today is day 42 of 60 and earlier in the week I started to notice some nute burn. Dumpster is a heavier feeder and at the suggested feeding rates from DG, Ive kinda felt like Ive been walking the line of leaf-tip burn this whole time. This is ok in my mind as that means Im feeding my girls everything they need, plus a little more. However, while the buds still smell fruity and skunky, squeezing them and smelling my fingers reveals the slightest aroma of earthy-nutrients. With that being said, I may be cutting the nutes back by 10-20% (except ProTekt). Of course this only makes the nutrient line cheaper so Im not complaining. The slight overfeeding may even have contributed to the next issue which was one pH adjustment this week. Ive gotten to the point where I only check the DG pH about every other day and it had dropped to 5.3 on Friday evening. No harm done and a quick adjustment to around 5.8 fixed that. Also, I cut down the amount of grow formula that I was using with the bloom and by doing so, I'm supplying the plants with more phosphorus than possibly needed. This could also be a culprit. Maybe the fix here isn't to dial back, but to go back to my 1/3 grow, 2/3 bloom ratio? 

Spider mites? I did find one leaf with mites on it this past week in a res off-camera, but it was also touching a plant fresh from the veg area that had a few mites on it. The dumpster tray continues to be mite-free and I contribute the added resistance to ProTekt. 

Resin? Im still thinking there is a slight resin difference between the 2 nutrient lines. That doesnt mean I cant mix-and-match the DG base with some GH additives at some point but it should be noted that products featuring sea kelp or humic/fulvic acids will increase resin production slightly. Does it make a difference in the smoke? We shall see. 

Weight? As far as production goes, DG is keeping up with the best of them. The buds are dense as can be and are an appropriate size given their age. As you can see in the picture, theyre starting to lean on one another which is why I have the strings around the tray. 

So moving into this next week, Ill be adjusting the nutes a little and monitoring the leaves and how the buds smell. Hopefully at the end of this Ill be able to post a generic schedule for DG. This will of course need tweaked since one round with a line of nutes is hardly enough info to get a good schedule. On the other hand, there are only 3 variables which makes it very easy to tweak. 





*Resin shots*

*GH Resin (day 41):*





*DG Resin (day 42):*












Cheers guys!


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## venacular (Sep 27, 2010)

Thanks for the update. I already ordered Floralicious.


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## Mazar i Shariff (Sep 27, 2010)

Buds look nice & frosted! From the look of your leaves, they are so dark green that I think your Nitrogen levels are WAY too high for where they need to be, which I think is what's starting to burn your tips too. Def don't want to go through nutrient lockout right now. 

What PPM are you feeding right now???


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## homebrewer (Sep 27, 2010)

Mazar i Shariff said:


> Buds look nice & frosted! From the look of your leaves, they are so dark green that I think your Nitrogen levels are WAY too high for where they need to be, which I think is what's starting to burn your tips too. Def don't want to go through nutrient lockout right now.
> 
> What PPM are you feeding right now???


It's not nitrogen burn. It's phosphorus and I know this because of the other reservoirs where I'm running different ratios of bloom and grow. Right now, my NPK ratio for my bloom/grow mix is 1-3-1.5 (or 3.8-11.4-5.8 ) which is not enough N to burn. In addition, I'm running higher levels of nitrogen in other reservoirs and the plants look fantastic. 

I don't have a TDS meter, I just use recommended schedules and tweak from there. But the DG schedule approximates the PPMs at 1435 with a 50ppm base water.


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## Mazar i Shariff (Sep 27, 2010)

Interesting. I'm shocked that at day #42 1435ppm is too much at those ratios. Guess they aren't too heavy of feeders. But I'd have to agree, a 20% cut and seeing how they react would be best. And because you aren't using a PPM meter, don't forget to account for water evaporation in an open reservoir such as yours, incase you are not watering it down here & there already to counter that. While it could be 1435ppm one day, all you need is some evaporation over a 24-48 hour period and next thing ya know it could be closer to the 2,000 range which would be too high, obviously. And the longer the periods are between flushes & fills, the more flux you can see there.

You've really been growing for 10 yrs without a TDS meter? That had to of been the best $200 I spent back in the day. Great multi-function unit.


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## Medi 1 (Sep 27, 2010)

not nute burn...lack of nutes. nutes dont burn. usualy its the low ph and makes them lack food that makes burns. suberin on the roots stops them from intaking to many nutes. we solve it by flushing and all that did was raise the ph back to where it needs to be to have all elements at the needed levels. ive flushed with full food when ive had this and it went away so its not food.


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## Medi 1 (Sep 27, 2010)

curious what camera you have. colours look funny green to me. never seen plants have that shade of green in real life.


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## Tiger Woods (Sep 27, 2010)

Minor issues to work out, still a great grow over all. 10 years with no TDS meter and results like this huh? Your either one lucky bastard or simply know what the hell your doing(I choose the later). Id still reccommend a meter. There as cheap as 15 bucks man. Eseasonger.com and if you order over $18.95 you get free shipping. Not trying to cross the line here and tell you what you need to do, you obviously know what your doing just a cheap way of knowing your ppm at all times. As Mazar mentioned when water evap. or the plants us it up at different rates the ppm may increase or decrease depending on how much water their drinking, if their drink more water than nutes, vice versa or consuming nutes/water equally. In my experience the ppm usually rises as water is loss and when you top off it lowers it quite a bit. As iam sure you know the only sure fire way of knowing is a meter.

Didn't mean to rant either,honest,lol.

Peace and good vibes


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## homebrewer (Sep 27, 2010)

Medi 1 said:


> not nute burn...lack of nutes. nutes dont burn. usualy its the low ph and makes them lack food that makes burns. suberin on the roots stops them from intaking to many nutes. we solve it by flushing and all that did was raise the ph back to where it needs to be to have all elements at the needed levels. ive flushed with full food when ive had this and it went away so its not food.


 Nutes can burn. pH is fine.



> curious what camera you have. colours look funny green to me. never seen plants have that shade of green in real life.


Upper-end Nikon dSLR with professional glass.





> Minor issues to work out, still a great grow over all. 10 years with no TDS meter and results like this huh? Your either one lucky bastard or simply know what the hell your doing(I choose the later). Id still reccommend a meter. There as cheap as 15 bucks man. Eseasonger.com and if you order over $18.95 you get free shipping. Not trying to cross the line here and tell you what you need to do, you obviously know what your doing just a cheap way of knowing your ppm at all times. As Mazar mentioned when water evap. or the plants us it up at different rates the ppm may increase or decrease depending on how much water their drinking, if their drink more water than nutes, vice versa or consuming nutes/water equally. In my experience the ppm usually rises as water is loss and when you top off it lowers it quite a bit. As iam sure you know the only sure fire way of knowing is a meter.
> 
> Didn't mean to rant either,honest,lol.
> Peace and good vibes


I change my res once per week and top off with fresh water each day. A TDS meter gives me a total number but doesn't let me know _exactly_ what nutes are being over-used. In this case, I believe it to be phosphorus based on my notes and other DG reservoirs that I'm experimenting with. A TDS meter certainly has a place in hydroponics but I don't see how that would help any more than good notes and reading plants (or attempting to  ). Thanks for the link, I'll keep that in mind for the future.


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## Medi 1 (Sep 27, 2010)

like nikons here as well.
and no, nutes dont burn. look up suberin. how if they cant take in more than they need as this works.


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## surphin (Sep 27, 2010)

Does MJ even have suberin? I thought it was just in trees like cork?


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## surphin (Sep 27, 2010)

Oh, and the plants are looking great HB. 

With the PH drop, you wouldn't happen to have found yourself topping off with more than usual this last week?


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## homebrewer (Sep 27, 2010)

Medi 1 said:


> like nikons here as well.
> and no, nutes dont burn. look up suberin. how if they cant take in more than they need as this works.


 I don't know if you're an organic guy or synthetic guy, but synthetic nutrients don't need broken down by microbes in the soil to be taken in by the plant. The plant can absolutely take in too much synthetic nutrient creating tip burn, nutrient smell in the buds, or crispy brown leaves top-to-bottom in severe cases. If you think the suberin somehow regulates the intake of synthetic nutrients, dump a whole bottle of nutes into your reservoir or into your pot. If you don't burn the plant, then I'll buy you a new bottle of the nutrient of your choice. 



> With the PH drop, you wouldn't happen to have found yourself topping off with more than usual this last week?


The water consumption seemed normal and I topped off as normal. I think it was a situation where the plant was taking in the amount of water and nutrient that it needed (and then some), leaving an excess of acidic nutrient in the reservoir. As far as plant health goes, I'm not even concerned and am glad I hit the 'ceiling' as this will allow me to tweak the schedule and gets me one step closer to a winning nute schedule. I was going with a total of 15 mls per gallon of a grow and bloom mix, I'm now at about 13 mls/gallon.


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## RastaMonsta (Sep 28, 2010)

damnn your almost done bro! ive been following since day 1,helping me build that confidence i need to grow some dank marijuana!

i really cant tell the difference in resin between both nute lines, only difference i notice is the dg has some orange hairs and the GH is str8 up white.


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## RastaMonsta (Sep 28, 2010)

hold up, i see a difference on the fan leaves now.Gh definatlly has more resin


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## homebrewer (Sep 28, 2010)

RastaMonsta said:


> hold up, i see a difference on the fan leaves now.Gh definatlly has more resin


 Well the good news is that I can use the DG line for the rock solid pH and the GH additives for resin together which is what I'm doing in a res off camera. Hopefully blending the best of both worlds for an all around cake-walk grow that produces showcase looks. I'll be sure to let you know if any difference in appearance translates to potency or smoke quality.


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## Tiger Woods (Sep 28, 2010)

If it ain't broke......

Edit: eseasongear.com


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## nixusr (Sep 28, 2010)

Man I can not wait to see the generic nutes list! This is an awesome comparison thread. I just put my order in for the DG Gro, Bloom, ProTek, Mag and K-L-N!


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## Stonercool (Sep 28, 2010)

While I still don't think folks will drag me away from Advanced Nutrients, this has been a fascinating journal to follow.

Thanks for posting all these details - I love seeing facts and pictures. So much more interesting than whining and arguing.


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## venacular (Sep 28, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> Well the good news is that I can use the DG line for the rock solid pH and the GH additives for resin together which is what I'm doing in a res off camera. Hopefully blending the best of both worlds for an all around cake-walk grow that produces showcase looks. I'll be sure to let you know if any difference in appearance translates to potency or smoke quality.


Just added some Dyna-Gro to my soil plants and to be honest I have noticed a difference in shade and shine. I have yet to see how they perform for a complete grow but that's why I thank you for this thread  i will be starting a hydro flood/drain table tomorrow with my Ice clones. My medium will be Hydroton with Dyna nutes. I was considering GH as my nute line as I have prior experience with it but this thread made me change my mind. So far I'm comfortable but the coming weeks should help me feel certain I made the right choice.


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## Medi 1 (Sep 28, 2010)

most plant have suberin, some have more or less is all. and type of nute dont matter. most nutes are all same. diff is organic is attached to a carbon molecule and others are to salt molecule.
i guess you can say im both organic and synthetic as i work in a nute company. so yes i know the diff in nutes and how they work.


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## homebrewer (Sep 28, 2010)

Medi 1 said:


> most plant have suberin, some have more or less is all. and type of nute dont matter. most nutes are all same. diff is organic is attached to a carbon molecule and others are to salt molecule.
> i guess you can say im both organic and synthetic as i work in a nute company. so yes i know the diff in nutes and how they work.


 Well there _is_ a difference between plant and animal based nutes and nutes mined from the earth. Those synthetics are readily available to the plant at all times and elements in excess can create deficiencies as seen in the link below:

http://www.totalgro.com/concepts.htm

If this is news to you, then lets talk about this outside of my grow journal. I'm not looking to clutter up these pages with "Growing 101" type information. Thanks.


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## shnkrmn (Sep 29, 2010)

Let's see now. Animal based nutrients. Well, there's manure. And then there's blood meal. Bone Meal. Guano (oops, that's manure again). Fish meal, earthworm castings (hmm, maybe that's manure, too). Ground up shrimp and crab shells are awesome. Those are animal-based, aren't they? 

Hey, homebrewer, I like your plan to use DG and supplements from GH. I'm not using any supplements right now, and I would have to see some really good result differences to add anything to my DG. I'm just too happy with a super clean res and the stable pH.


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## Medi 1 (Sep 29, 2010)

sure no worries,. sory, diodnt mean to clutter in here bud.

ya ok now i get what you mean animnal based...shrimp n crab arent animals so its not what i would have thought of for this. actualy not many of those are animals actualy.


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## Illumination (Sep 30, 2010)

Medi 1 said:


> sure no worries,. sory, diodnt mean to clutter in here bud.
> 
> ya ok now i get what you mean animnal based...shrimp n crab arent animals so its not what i would have thought of for this. actualy not many of those are animals actualy.


So what is a crab or shrimp? A plant? Fungi? Well it has to be one of the three as there are only three known kingdoms of life... all are either from their waste, carcass, or body by products...

And all of these are referred to as animal derived

Hope it helps...

Looking awesome as usual HB

Namaste'


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## homebrewer (Sep 30, 2010)

Guys, please do *not* respond to MED1, I am trying to get his posts deleted. If someone is interested in this comparison 3 years from now, I don't want them to have to shuffle through off-topic basics. Thanks for following along guys.


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## homebrewer (Sep 30, 2010)

I wanted to do a quick update of the AK47 ladies being grown with the GH expert line. They are at day 43 and have about 3 weeks left. They dont like the same levels of nutes that the dumpster plant likes but do very well when fed at the appropriate levels. Speaking of which, I am posting this because I added koolbloom dry last night which will burn the shiz out of your plants if used per the schedule on the GH site (http://www.genhydro.com/genhydro_US/feeding_charts/GH_ExpertProgram_Recirculating.pdf). I suppose I could make it easy on myself and continue with their regular feeding until the end but Ive had good results with this product in the past and am really trying to see how it intermingles with the micro and bloom than Im using. So here are some pics, hopefully my update next week doesnt reveal scorched plants. 

As far as comparing this tray to DG, I like how this one is more evenly green top-to-bottom and Im really liking the resin production thus far. Both trays smell great but this one is definitely more pungent with that grapefruit and sweet ginger aroma (different nutes and a different strain), maybe being assisted by floralicious Plus? The pH is still something that I look at everyday and always adjust at least 3-4 days per week. As long as Im not on vacation, I really have no issues with this. It can be annoying though if youre at a happy hour and you look down at your watch knowing at that very moment, your tables are being flooded with the wrong pH . That is why I'm really liking DG.


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## Mazar i Shariff (Sep 30, 2010)

Looking like great smoke homebrewer! Keep it up! I look forward to seeing the differences once they are completely swollen and ready to be chopped.

"lf you ever need a guinea pig, let me know. My grandfather was in the Tuskegee experiments."


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## dadio161 (Sep 30, 2010)

your girls look awsome . I really like the way you built your system from scratch .
I'm going to have to hit you up for help with my nutes on my next grow .
Impressive grow .


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## Carbon (Oct 1, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> I was going with a total of 15 mls per gallon of a grow and bloom mix, I'm now at about 13 mls/gallon.


Hate to throw out another option this late in the game, but have you considered DG's Mag-Pro? It is 2-15-4 2%Mg 1.5% Sulfur
Wk 1 of Bloom use 1.25 ml/gal. Each wk increase by 1.25. At wk 4 will have 5ml/gal --- use that amt. thru rest of flower. 
The final schedule I use is 5 TEK 5 MAG 12.5 BLM. In theory, 1250ppm. This has worked for me for a long time.
From reading the labels, I can't see how there is enough Calcium. But the plants don't lie. They look great!! RO water to mix then tap (250ppm) to adjust ph to 5.8 or so. Probably picking up more Calcium w/ the tap. After initial ph adjust, you can throw the meter away --- rock solid. This is for DTW.
The Flora+ looks like an excellent idea.
Thanks for all you're doing. I don't see how anyone would be disappointed w/ DGs lineup.

Carbon

ps I did consult w/ Dyna-Gro reps before arriving at the feeding schedule above. They are a real knowledgeable group.


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## homebrewer (Oct 1, 2010)

I'm using magpro but scaled that back as well. I spoke with DG and they gave me the impression that it's mainly for people who use RO water and aren't getting enough magnesium and sulfur. When I looked at my feeding schedule and the pics, I noticed that the burn and leaf curl was more prominent when I was adding more magpro, so that is getting dialed back.

This is the schedule I've been using and tweaking: http://www.dyna-gro.com/Website pdf Files/Dyna Gro Feeding Chart.pdf


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## Dropastone (Oct 1, 2010)

What's your thoughts on using Grow vs Foliage Pro? During veg does either one have it's advantages or disadvantages over the other?


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## jawbrodt (Oct 1, 2010)

Awesome comparison. I use Dynagro Bloom, Grow, and Protekt, myself. The main difference, is the Magpro. I use Calmag Plus, instead. Sadly, my last two grows hermied and fucked everything up, so I started over again, with new strains. I aslo found the Dynagro to be a little on the potent side, whern using as recommended. I'm assuming those recommended to be use during grows optimized with 1000 watt HIDs, etc.... On lesser grows, lesser doses are required. I suffered mild nute burn as well, going with their recommendations. I'm in soil, adjusted for the nute potency, am at the end of week 1 12/12, and am really looking forward to the next 7-8 weeks. 

Thanks for experimenting, much appreciated.


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## homebrewer (Oct 1, 2010)

Dropastone said:


> What's your thoughts on using Grow vs Foliage Pro? During veg does either one have it's advantages or disadvantages over the other?


 I bought the grow (7-9-5) because that's what my local store had. It just so happens that when I mix the grow and the bloom, I get some ratios that I really like. For instance, equal parts grow and bloom results in a 1-2-1 ratio which I really like for at least the first half of flower. 2/3rds bloom results in 1-2.5-1.3 which I like for later in the bloom stage. With that being said, foliage pro has a great 3-1-2 ratio for veg and I'm sure either the foliage pro or grow formula would give excellent results.

Jawbrodt - What are you finding works well in soil? I'm experimenting now with 4mls total of a grow/bloom mix per gallon. Your thoughts?


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## Dropastone (Oct 1, 2010)

Thanks HB, I'm just about to run out of my GH products and I'm considering making the switch to Dyna-Grow. I was thinking the Foliage Pro would work out better in veg.

Great looking plants and thanks for the side by side comparison.

Peace.


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## jawbrodt (Oct 1, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> Jawbrodt - What are you finding works well in soil? I'm experimenting now with 4mls total of a grow/bloom mix per gallon. Your thoughts?


Well, I wish I could offer something more solid, but haven't been using it long enough to have an established feeding schedule. I mix at 1/2 tsp per gallon, and during my last grow, I was use Grow instead of Bloom, during early flowering, feeding every 3-4 days, and it was a bit too much. I had a mid-grade N overdose, which really hurt my harvest.(aside from being pollinated.lol) So, this time, I plan to stick strictly with Bloom, Protekt, and Calmag, at 1/2 of what I was using before, and go from there. They haven't been fed yet,(at 7 weeks) because the foliar feeding has them sustained flawlessly, so far. I'm actually afraid of N overfert,(mainly) at this point, because they have been sustained so well, and will be going 1/4 strength root-feeding, to start. I am also seriously considering starting with GH 0-5-4, in order to keep the N levels down, until I'm more adjusted to that efficiency of foliar. I honestly think I couild get away with using zero root feeding, until I stop the foliar, and still have zero problems. I plant to stop, once the buds have started developing well, at around week 4-5. I'm pretty sure I will be feeding them tomorrow, with Dynagro Bloom. I haven't decided yet. I don't really want to mess with perfection. KWIM?


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## 1gne (Oct 3, 2010)

wud up HB nice one. (remember me?? lol)
ok ive read the whole thread. about halfway threw i relized the nuts you were using were from bloom (?).
ok long story short Whats do i need to cop from DG 4 a complete grow (veg-bloom) some additive sugestion would be nice also.

plz nobody tell me to read the thread because i have (twice). Either its not in there specifically or im just slow. At any-rate plz dnt go off on my like ppl (on RIU) are infamous of doing.
nothing but love

-1gne


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## homebrewer (Oct 3, 2010)

1gne said:


> wud up HB nice one. (remember me?? lol)
> ok ive read the whole thread. about halfway threw i relized the nuts you were using were from bloom (?).
> ok long story short Whats do i need to cop from DG 4 a complete grow (veg-bloom) some additive sugestion would be nice also.
> 
> ...


 In all reality, you only need the grow (7-9-5) and the bloom (3-12-6) to grow nice plants. I'd maybe recommend going half and half for the first half of flowering and then scaling back the grow during the last half. This is only my first time working with these products so I'll attempt to post a schedule at the end of this that works for me and my water. If you have some extra cash, check out ProTekt as it's a really nice silicon product.


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## 1gne (Oct 3, 2010)

prociated that my man.
+rep You put me on hydro lol. 
Running a "heppy bucket" type joint. 75/25 perl/vert mix
Do ya think ill b ok with these. Hoping the ph stability help alot.


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## epicseeds (Oct 4, 2010)

Here is something interesting I found from Tapla and Gardenweb



> I also am a fan of Dyna-Gro fertilizers for container usage.
> I was asked recently 'If high P fertilizers are so useless then why does Dyna-Gro make and market them?'
> My answer was simply to have a product that people wanted, but that was just my opinion. I decided to ask the company (Dyna-Gro) about this. At first I got a very brief response from a representative that wasn't at all satisfying so I asked that rep to forward my question to someone responsible for deciding what their formulations would be. I ended up getting a response from the CEO. Here it is, I think you will find it interesting.
> *******************
> ...


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## RastaMonsta (Oct 4, 2010)

update? bump


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## homebrewer (Oct 4, 2010)

Epicseeds, great post! I've thought about running their 7-9-5 from start to finish as I'm really wanting to see if the P value is as important as every nute company wants us to think. +rep

Today is day 49 of 60 and Im happy to report that with the encouragement of a few of you, I bought a TDS meter. While its absolutely possible to dial in a feeding schedule reading plants, its MUCH easier knowing exactly how potent some of these nutrients can be. For instance, the DG feeding schedule during the peak of flowering claims their nutes with 50ppm water brings your res to 1400ish PPM. My calculations had it up over 2000ppm. I even did some tests with GH and their recommended schedule and I was up around 2200ppm with them too. Unless there is some kind of ppm conversion I should know about, I mixed and read accurately AND took into account the base PPM of my own water. Again, more potent nutes makes them cheaper to use so Im not complaining at all, though it makes sense now that I saw burn at supposedly conservative levels. Anyways, my point is that you guys were right. If you want, Ill post the PPM contributions of the products Im using so you can dial in a schedule that works for you. 

As far as the plants go, things are going well. Theyre needing tied up, the buds are rock hard and the ones that arent tied up are leaning against each other. Ive cut the grow formula out as it appears that less and less nitrogen has been needed after about week 4 and Im feeding with about 10mls of bloom, 5 of protekt and 1ml of magpro. This puts me at around 1300ppm. I still think GH has the resin advantage but Im very happy with the potential yield here with DG. Being that this is my first time working with DG, even if I come out with the same yield that I normally get with GH, thats still quite impressive as it took me a while to finally get a schedule that worked with GH. Another thing I noticed is the number of red hairs on the GH plant and the lack of them on the DG plants. Will I need to flower for 2 more weeks instead of 10 days? We will see. I do use a 'ripener' with GH and it appears that it does work. 

Having cut back the nutes last feeding (to what I found was 1350ppm), the pH remained stable and the buds lost that hint of nutrient smell. For those of you just joining the grow, the pH is something that needs checked regularly with DG, but practically never adjusted. The 3 or 4 times Ive adjusted it over 50 days now were probably when I was overfeeding due to not having a TDS meter. But anyone who has worked with hydro before can definitely appreciate the easy of not having to mess with the pH. 

Here are the ladies:








*GH Resin (day 50)*




*DG Resin (Day 49)*


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## Mazar i Shariff (Oct 4, 2010)

Looking good homebrewer!

I'm glad to hear you got a TDS meter. That will make things much easier in the long run, and it sounds like you've already discovered quite a bit that can now be adjusted to improve your grow and prevent future burns. I always questioned a lot of the labels out there and their mixing instructions in the past. 

A while back I did make an observation that your plants seem to have darker than normal leaves. I just realized your note that you've been feeding DG Grow formula throughout bloom up until now. This has to be why your leaves are so dark, and honestly it looks like they have been given a bit too much Nitrogen because of it. Next time around, I would recommend cutting off the grow after Week 2 of bloom. I've found it's always great to have grow formulas ready to rock incase your leaves start to lose their rich green color and go light, lime green. But typically, the bloom formulas have enough N to support the plant, as after Week 2 the plant has completed most of it vertical growth & branching and greatly reduces it's N intake. If you continue to feed this too far into the bloom phase, excess N can easily cause nutrient lockout and start blocking all that much needed PK.

Anyway, keep it up and keep us updated!

Cheers


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## jawbrodt (Oct 4, 2010)

No doubt man, looking awesome. Gotta love that Dynagro, eh? Simple to use, and works great.


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## homebrewer (Oct 4, 2010)

Mazar i Shariff said:


> Looking good homebrewer!
> 
> I'm glad to hear you got a TDS meter. That will make things much easier in the long run, and it sounds like you've already discovered quite a bit that can now be adjusted to improve your grow and prevent future burns. I always questioned a lot of the labels out there and their mixing instructions in the past.
> 
> ...


 The only reason I bought the grow (7-9-5) was because I was only using the Bloom (3-12-6) and that wasn't enough to keep things green. My AK47 tray off camera is another experiment where I'm going half and half until day 30. Doing so gives a 1-2-1 ratio which is far from too much nitrogen, but I know 1-4-2 isn't enough. Trial and error my man .


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## mane2008 (Oct 4, 2010)

looking great man, keep on growing .
nice dyi setup too


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## weed4cash (Oct 4, 2010)

You named it right. Dumpster... That's where I'd put it.


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## puffntuff (Oct 4, 2010)

weed4cash said:


> You named it right. Dumpster... That's where I'd put it.


 What a clown!!! That shit is epic around here. Dumpster, lemon g, darkstar!! Ohio only strains.


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## KingIV20 (Oct 4, 2010)

Absolute chronic. Excellent work Homebrewer....and thanks again for the assistance in the past, and the guidance from your grows in the future


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## 1gne (Oct 5, 2010)

right what king said 
thnks 4 doin this test 4 us
Lookin good ma


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## dadio161 (Oct 5, 2010)

your comments show that you never even read the thread . I don't see you posting anything better or more informative . Just a Troll .


weed4cash said:


> You named it right. Dumpster... That's where I'd put it.


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## mane2008 (Oct 5, 2010)

stop crashinin on this dudes thread. he left ya shit alone now leave him be. you looking for trouble


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## surphin (Oct 6, 2010)

Hey HB, you know you must be doing something right when you have your own stalker!


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## epicseeds (Oct 6, 2010)

> Having cut back the nutes last feeding (to what I found was 1350ppm), the pH remained stable and the buds lost that hint of nutrient smell. For those of you just joining the grow, the pH is something that needs checked regularly with DG, but practically never adjusted. The 3 or 4 times I&#8217;ve adjusted it over 50 days now were probably when I was overfeeding due to not having a TDS meter. But anyone who has worked with hydro before can definitely appreciate the easy of not having to mess with the pH.


Fatman said many times that DG really is not a perfect option for a recirculating hydro system, but best for a DTW system. His reasoning for this is because of the amount of ammonium nitrate (or is it the other one) that can really mess up pH when is recirculated. He did say it is entirely possible to use, which is exactly what you have proven - but will require maintenance. 

I have been looking at the DG line for months, especially the Foliage Pro because of the 3-1-2 ratio. Just recently I discovered that the Botainicare CNS17 coco grow is also a 3-1-2 NPK ratio. CNS17 is also way cheaper compared to Dyna-Gro believe it or not! The only problem is CNS17 does not come loaded with all the macros that foliage pro does. But this certainly can be fixed with another product - i have not settled on which one would be best perhaps someone could help. 

What's more, the CNS17 Coco Bloom comes as a 2-2-3 ratio. I feel this is an excellent ratio for bloom. The nitrogen is slightly lowered, which research shows causes best bud production. Also, the P ratio is not ridiculously high, and not higher than the N (see high P myth for info). Also the phospho is slightly raised as well, marijuana tissue samples done by AN (yea they did something useful!) shows that in bloom that not only do plants not need high P but while in bloom they use a slightly higher amount of K. 


With that said, it seems like you have perfected the ratios using the dyna-gro, can you give a bit more detail on exactly how much of fluctuations if pH you have found? You stated that it requires daily checking but you dont have to add pH up or down too often? 

I am extremely interested in the feeding schedule you have came up with.

@homebrewer


> Unless there is some kind of ppm conversion I should know about


 Yes there is one you should know about! And I suspect this may be happening. Some conversions are based on a .5 scale while others are on a .7 scale. I know very little on exactly how to convert from each other but i know one will show a lower ppm while another will be extremely high. If you were to use a .5 conversion meter and try to go off of .7 scales you will really screw up your plants. I would check your manual, and if it doesnt say do some googling. Usually certain brands stick to a certain conversion rate.

EDIT:

from notes i took on the lucas formula it seems that:

@ 0.5 1200ppm = @ 0.7 1800ppm

so according to this it seems that if dyna-gro calls for a 1400ppm they are using a 0.5 conversion and since your meter reads a 2000ppm you are using a 0.7 conversion so i would say you are spot on and i would not scale back as you will run deficient. 

essentially:

@ 0.5 1400ppm = @ 0.7 2000ppm

but...from what I have read MJ usually likes to sit around the 1200ppm @.5 and 1800ppm @.7 From the looks of your pics i see very slight nute burns on the edge of the leaves. perhaps you should scale back just a tiny bit to ~1800ppm on your meter. but definitely do not go to 1400ppm.



> I&#8217;ve cut the grow formula out as it appears that less and less nitrogen has been needed after about week 4 and I&#8217;m feeding with about 10mls of bloom, 5 of protekt and 1ml of magpro. This puts me at around 1300ppm.


this is what i fear is a mistake. if you are indeed using a .7 conversion meter. and if what i have said so far is correct (people please speak up if i am wrong, i am still learning) then you are underfeeding by a considerate amount. I'm sure nothing very bad would come from it since you are underfeeding and not overfeeding, but you might not be feeding the plant to its max potential.


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## homebrewer (Oct 6, 2010)

> Fatman said many times that DG really is not a perfect option for a recirculating hydro system, but best for a DTW system. His reasoning for this is because of the amount of ammonium nitrate (or is it the other one) that can really mess up pH when is recirculated. He did say it is entirely possible to use, which is exactly what you have proven - but will require maintenance.


I remember reading that and I think it was in reference to the ammoniacal nitrogen and somewhere under 15% is desirable and since DG is below that, I think he was arguing that it was _intended_ for hydro, not soil? Myself and another on this forum are currently testing it in soil. All of our plants look fantastic thus far. But in regards to DG's pH stability, it's rock solid. My comment was more of an explanation as to why I've had to adjust it at all (just 4 times in nearly 2 months) and that was in all likelihood due to over-feeding. In contrast, I adjust the GH pH 4 times per _week_. 





> I have been looking at the DG line for months, especially the Foliage Pro because of the 3-1-2 ratio. Just recently I discovered that the Botainicare CNS17 coco grow is also a 3-1-2 NPK ratio. CNS17 is also way cheaper compared to Dyna-Gro believe it or not! The only problem is CNS17 does not come loaded with all the macros that foliage pro does. But this certainly can be fixed with another product - i have not settled on which one would be best perhaps someone could help.


CNS grow and bloom look 'complete enough' and like you mentioned, it has a good veg ratio. I'm not crazy about the bloom ratio as I like a 1:1 N to K ratio, or at least somewhere close. 2-2-5 doesn't look good on paper, though it could be fine in practice. Their coco bloom is 2-2-3 and that would be interesting to try. As far as price, CNS looks to be half the price of DG, but the real question is; how potent is CNS? I'm finding that DG is giving me the following ppm values (1 ml/gallon):

Grow PPM 128 
Bloom PPM 88 
Protekt PPM 12 
MagPro PPM 115

Do the math and I think you'll find that it doesn't take much to get to a recommended 1400 ppm. For instance, I'm using a half and half split of grow and bloom for my AK47 and at normal feeding levels for flowering, I can grow 6 plants for 1/3 of a gallon of DG nutes which costs me $15 in base nutes, that's pretty cheap. So to compare the cost of products side-by-side, potency should be taken into account. 





> With that said, it seems like you have perfected the ratios using the dyna-gro, can you give a bit more detail on exactly how much of fluctuations if pH you have found? You stated that it requires daily checking but you dont have to add pH up or down too often?


 The DG pH is rock solid. If you're not trying to feed your plant more than it can handle, you can throw away your pH _up_ and _down_, seriously. 



> I am extremely interested in the feeding schedule you have came up with.


Having almost one DG grow under my belt (so take that for what it's worth), here is what I am feeding my AK47s off camera in mls/gallon:

*Transition* (1250ppm for 2-3 weeks): 
Grow 3.5
Bloom 5
ProTekt 5
MagPro 1.5

*Bloom *(1350 ppm for 4-5 weeks):
Grow 2.5
Bloom 7.5
ProTekt 5
MagPro 1.5

*Ripen *(1250ppm for 1-2 week):
Grow 0
Bloom 10.5
ProTekt 5 
MagPro 0

Some of the ppms may seem low, but given my 15 gallons res size, water usage/evaporation quickly condenses the ppm in a 24 hour period.




> @homebrewer
> Yes there is one you should know about! And I suspect this may be happening. Some conversions are based on a .5 scale while others are on a .7 scale. I know very little on exactly how to convert from each other but i know one will show a lower ppm while another will be extremely high. If you were to use a .5 conversion meter and try to go off of .7 scales you will really screw up your plants. I would check your manual, and if it doesnt say do some googling. Usually certain brands stick to a certain conversion rate.
> 
> EDIT:
> ...


My meter is a .7 conversion I believe, maybe someone can verify if they have one (*http://www.hidhut.com/catalog/oakton-ecotestr-tds-low-p-2325.html* ). Regardless of the conversion, if there is such a thing, the GH feeding schedule that my plants have done well on turns out to be around 1450ppm. So using that as a max value, I've mixed DG nutes to reach that value so I can now feed accordingly.


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## dog (Oct 7, 2010)

looking good Homebrewer going by your last grow, do you think you will get the 1+gram per watt? This is turning out to be a top journal like your last one


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## Carbon (Oct 7, 2010)

Don't get too hung up on PPMs.

PPMs are a conversion of the EC (electrical conductivity). One (.5) is half the EC; the other (.7) is seven tenths of ECx1000. There is even a Eutech that has a .64 factor !! Add to that a CF scale that is 10 times EC. When you see 2000 EC, they really should say 2.0 EC. Therefore, in this example, the CF would be 20. Now, forget all that !!

As precisely as possible measure and mix what we'll call that our BASE. Say the 5ml Protect 1ml MagPro 10ml Bloom. Take a reading w/ your meter and write the number down. The larger the quantity of water and the more careful you are, the better. Whatever meter or whatever number that is your number. Now everything you do is based off your BASE. I even re-calibrate my meter to get back to my number. Any additions or subtraction from the BASE will give you a number relative to what you started with. Now you don't have to mess w/ a bunch of numbers that might not even apply to you. It'll take out the guess work.

Hope I was clear and hope it helps. 

Carbon


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## homebrewer (Oct 11, 2010)

Today is day 56 of 60 and I think Im going to let these girls go another full week. Normally with GH nutes, I use a product at the end called KoolBloom dry which really does seem to quicken the flower time by a few days. This has always been a 60 day strain but I think 63ish days should be good enough in this case. 

You may notice a few colas missing from the group picture. I had to harvest a few early this week as this strain gets so dense and resinous that its susceptible to mold. So during a normal grow, around day 50 Ill start checking the insides of the largest colas for that grayish blue mold that can form. I saw the smallest start to mold in one cola and decided to error on the side of being safe. Ive literally lost several ounces before due to mold and Im pretty convinced that there isnt much you can do to stop it with this strain. Good airflow, a clean grow room and humidity below 50% are a few things that will normally prevent mold. But with this strain, the insides of the colas are leafy, dense and resinous and when those small leaves transpire, there is no where for that moisture to go. So that being said, I took down nearly 2 ounces in dry weight of colas and will post pics when theyre totally dry. To be safe, I threw away just a few grams of bud that had that grayish blue lint-looking mold on them as I would not smoke that myself. 

As were approaching the end here, I think there is a decently obvious resin difference between the GH dumpster and the DG dumpster. I dont know if this will equate to a difference in smoke quality but Ill certainly let you guys know in the next 2 weeks. In the defense of DG, those plants are being grown with just the essential elements, whereas the GH tray is and has received in the past sea kelp and fulvic acid products. I personally believe these products to be the culprit for the resin difference. As Ive mentioned in the past, Im currently using Floralicious Plus in a res off camera with DG nutes and Ill post pics of that AK47 crop to compare it to some of the pics below. The floralicious Plus seems to have zero affect on the pH stability of the DG nutes as well. In regards to pH stability, Ive found that depending on my ratio of base nutes to Protekt, Ill sometimes need to do one initial pH adjustment at the time of my res change. The Protket has a higher pH and if youre running lighter nutes at the end of your flowering cycle, the lower pH in the base nutes cant quite balance the higher pH of the Protekt to rest the res at 5.8. Sometimes itll rest at 6.1-6.3. A few mls of pH down on the day of your res change seems to be the only adjustment needed for the entire week. 

My next update will probably be when I start to harvest and I'll try to get a few pics posted before I do so. I'll certainly post some final buds shots for a final comparison along with my thoughts on DynaGro. Not sure about you guys, but trimming 1 pound takes me about 8 hours of non stop work . 




*GH Resin (day 60):*




*DG Resin:*








*AK47 day 52 (GH nutes)*


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## venacular (Oct 11, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> Today is day 56 of 60 and I think I&#8217;m going to let these girls go another full week. Normally with GH nutes, I use a product at the end called KoolBloom dry which really does seem to quicken the flower time by a few days. This has always been a 60 day strain but I think 63ish days should be good enough in this case.
> 
> You may notice a few colas missing from the group picture. I had to harvest a few early this week as this strain gets so dense and resinous that it&#8217;s susceptible to mold. So during a normal grow, around day 50 I&#8217;ll start checking the insides of the largest colas for that grayish blue mold that can form. I saw the smallest start to mold in one cola and decided to error on the side of being safe. I&#8217;ve literally lost several ounces before due to mold and I&#8217;m pretty convinced that there isn&#8217;t much you can do to stop it with this strain. Good airflow, a clean grow room and humidity below 50% are a few things that will normally prevent mold. But with this strain, the insides of the colas are leafy, dense and resinous and when those small leaves transpire, there is no where for that moisture to go. So that being said, I took down nearly 2 ounces in dry weight of colas and will post pics when they&#8217;re totally dry. To be safe, I threw away just a few grams of bud that had that grayish blue lint-looking mold on them as I would not smoke that myself.
> 
> ...


Aren't you using Sweet for the GH tray also? I think that may also be providing some extra sulfur related to better resin production on the GH tray? I have been using DG in my dirt plants and they love it  I have started using both GH Flouralicious and Sweet and have noticed an increase in resin production over not using them in just a very short amount of time. After seeing your results and mine in dirt I am confident you have found a possible replacement for that advanced and troublesome GH schedule you have now. Thanks for helping me decide on what nutes to start with and for sharing your results.


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## MoppinSauce (Oct 11, 2010)

HB, can you go into some details on the fogging you do? Do you use any other products to control the mites? I have doctor doom foggers but am not sure of the best way to use them, you girls look really good so late into bloom. How late do you fog? I use Azamax and they seem to be getting immune to it, that and the low humidity that rolled into town hasn't helped at all.


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## homebrewer (Oct 11, 2010)

MoppinSauce said:


> HB, can you go into some details on the fogging you do? Do you use any other products to control the mites? I have doctor doom foggers but am not sure of the best way to use them, you girls look really good so late into bloom. How late do you fog? I use Azamax and they seem to be getting immune to it, that and the low humidity that rolled into town hasn't helped at all.


 I fogged today actually but I fogged in my veg room. No doubt some creeped into my grow room but a lot of those pyrethrum products are ok a few days out from harvest (http://www.discount-hydro.com/productdisp.php?pid=231&navid=24). As far as other products to control mites, I use _Azamax_ and _Take Down_ and spray once per week when I can remember. I believe _take down_ to be more effective than Azamax, but they sort of work in different ways. The foggers are the best defense that I've found. And I'll say it again, Protekt really does make it harder for mites to take hold. Too bad I'm not using it on my dirt plants at the moment and that seems to be where those mites like to live. For some reason, my hydro plants seem to be a little harder for the mites to get to.


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## MoppinSauce (Oct 11, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> I fogged today actually but I fogged in my veg room. No doubt some creeped into my grow room but a lot of those pyrethrum products are ok a few days out from harvest (http://www.discount-hydro.com/productdisp.php?pid=231&navid=24). As far as other products to control mites, I use _Azamax_ and _Take Down_ and spray once per week when I can remember. I believe _take down_ to be more effective than Azamax, but they sort of work in different ways. The foggers are the best defense that I've found. And I'll say it again, Protekt really does make it harder for mites to take hold. Too bad I'm not using it on my dirt plants at the moment and that seems to be where those mites like to live. For some reason, my hydro plants seem to be a little harder for the mites to get to.


Thanks HB. I have 2-3 weeks on most of my girls in bloom so it may be a little late for me to fog. I upped my humidity over the weekend and that really seems to slow them down quite a bit. I was shocked when the Azamax didn't do the trick and I applied multiple times at varying rates last friday through sunday - .25oz up to .7oz/per gallon. I gave in an ordered the floramite trio off of ebay. I have never heard of take down, I appreciate the info. Keep em green HB.


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## nixusr (Oct 11, 2010)

venacular said:


> Aren't you using Sweet for the GH tray also? I think that may also be providing some extra sulfur related to better resin production on the GH tray? I have been using DG in my dirt plants and they love it  I have started using both GH Flouralicious and Sweet and have noticed an increase in resin production over not using them in just a very short amount of time. After seeing your results and mine in dirt I am confident you have found a possible replacement for that advanced and troublesome GH schedule you have now. Thanks for helping me decide on what nutes to start with and for sharing your results.


I've purchased the DG Grow, Bloom, MagPro and ProTekt based on homebrewer's experiment. I have been reading up on both the Floralicious Plus and Sweet.

Since this is going to be my first grow, at what stage do you normally add those supplements during bloom? I am still debating if I should buy the Floralicious + and Sweet. My local hydro store mentioned that they would work me a deal.


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## venacular (Oct 11, 2010)

nixusr said:


> I've purchased the DG Grow, Bloom, MagPro and ProTekt based on homebrewer's experiment. I have been reading up on both the Floralicious Plus and Sweet.
> 
> Since this is going to be my first grow, at what stage do you normally add those supplements during bloom? I am still debating if I should buy the Floralicious + and Sweet. My local hydro store mentioned that they would work me a deal.


I am using the Flouralicious + in grow and bloom, it doesn't take much. I am using Sweet from start to finish in bloom only.


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## Mazar i Shariff (Oct 11, 2010)

Fogging helps the room greatly! I used to clear the room when problems got bad, as much as a task as that can be, and fogged for 4 hours minimum during the day so that their light cycle didn't get stressed and then I wiped down, sprayed the plants/equipment with their own organic spray before entering, and then put them back in the room. Killed stuff off and minimized the problem for a good 2-3 weeks before I started seeing flies and whatnot again. Keep those fuckers to a minimum, that's for sure! 

All the organic oils I have in my sprays: Thyme Oil, Rosemary Oil, Peppermint Oil, Canola Oil, Neem Oil, Sesame Oil, and a couple others I can't think of at the moment. Peppermint works great and makes the garden smell like a candy cane. I enjoy using that produce. Thyme & Rosemary can get old fast, as they are very fragrent, but nice herbal smell. Canola, Neem, & Sesame can be nice cuz I've found they are by far the most scentless that can be used and not harm plants or cause chemical burns/uptake in soil.


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## epicseeds (Oct 12, 2010)

Hey I have been talking quite a bit with Ryan, the CEO from Dyna-Gro and he is a stand up guy. I would like to share some of his information offered:



> The points you brought up about coco are true but definitely over emphasized in the indoor gardening world. The levels of Potassium and Sulfur that are present in high quality coco are not as high as people are lead to believe, or atleast not high enough to warrant a massive shift it nutrient composition. The concept that you need to use a coco specific nutrient is mostly just another clever way for companies to sell more nutrients. In my opinion, the potassium and sulfur levels present in coco are less of a concern than the tendency for it to "hold onto" calcium and magnesium, but even this problem is rare and easily remedied. Long story short, Dyna-Gro is designed to work well in coco so you don't have to worry about a coco specific formula. I myself am mainly a coco grower and I designed our drain to waste feeding chart to work with coco. I do recommend giving the plants a flush once a month and I recommend that you feed at a pH of 5.8 with Grow and 6.0 with Bloom. The higher pH is to account for the elevated phosphorous levels found in Bloom and Mag-Pro.
> We don't currently have any beneficial microorganism products but we will have a liquid based bacillus product coming out shortly. Our product will have 5 different strains of bacillus that will improve nutrient uptake and decrease fertilizer requirements. In the meantime, using something like Great White is a good idea. I also recommend using a little bit of a sweetener to give the beneficials another food source. I personally use a sweetener and a sea kelp product in addition to my Dyna-Gro and beneficials. I think you are getting the best of both worlds this way (organic and mineral based)
> 
> Foliage-Pro is definitely a great formula. It can be used the whole way through flowering but I personally find that it results in a leafier end product. During vegetative growth, however, Foliage-Pro is an excellent formula and the 3-1-2 ratio is quite exceptional, as you mentioned. The only advantage to using Grow is that it is slightly higher in a couple of micronutrients and you have less potential for nitrogen toxicity. Foliage-Pro is quite high in Nitrogen and some people over-do the nitrogen without realizing it. Sometimes people won't realize they are using too much Nitrogen because the main symptom is excessively green foliage. Most people think that the darker green foliage actually means a healthier plant. Then, when they go to transition to flower, they notice that the transition time is slow and blame it on the nutrients, not realizing that they simply over did the N which delayed their transition. Therefore, I often recommend Grow because it is a little easier to work with but as long as you don't over feed, Foliage-Pro should give you very impressive results and the switch to Bloom will give you a very rapid transition.


Some things that I think may apply to you, are though you are not using Foliage Pro - I suspect since you are adding Grow and Bloom together during Flower that you may be giving a bit too much N. After looking at your pics again it does seem that they are super dark green, a sign of N toxicity. As he said, this can cause a delay in flowering which you seem to be experiencing. Perhaps next time you should try switching to only bloom.

With that said, they look excellent and am looking forward to final weight comparison and a smoke report! Do you plan on doing a second comparison grow, and apply the things you have learned about DG thus far? I think you would really benefit from a sweetener with the DG


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## malady (Oct 12, 2010)

read the whole thread.

i think im going to purchase dyna-gro instead of using my FF nutes
just for pure ease and rez control

thanks alot for the experiment
and i cant wait to read the smoke report + rep


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## bigmindhack (Oct 12, 2010)

If you're using Floralicious Plus and Sweet can you still clean your rez with H202?


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## homebrewer (Oct 12, 2010)

epicseeds said:


> Hey I have been talking quite a bit with Ryan, the CEO from Dyna-Gro and he is a stand up guy. I would like to share some of his information offered:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 I've spoken with Ryan before, that guy is a damn guru! While my plants do look green, I've been giving them 90% bloom formula going on 14 days now and before that, it was 2/3rds bloom for about 3 weeks. So they haven't been getting that much grow formula and the grow's NPK is (7-9-5), not exactly a nitrogen powerhouse. What is wrong with green plants? DG is potent and at their suggested rates, I was up to 1900 ppms (including my base water). Any burn or toxicity that you might see is from overfeeding in general. Again, thanks to those who encouraged me to get a TDS meter. I plan on continuing this thread through another grow using some GH additives and tweaking my feeding program based on what I noticed this round and ppm requirements for the plants. 

Below are some shots of the dirt part of my garden and I wouldn't consider these too green either. Check out the dirt plants being grown with DG nutes in the dirt, where are the excesses or deficiencies? I don't see any . 

Moving forward, I wont be using _sweet_ in my tray as I will not see the benefit of the carbs since I'm not currently using any beneficials and already have the magnesium and sulfur covered. In addition, 5mls/gallon of sweet adds 100ppm I believe and I'm more interested in comprising all of my ppms with balanced plant nutrition from DG. I'm currently experimenting with floralicious plus and trying to tweak the grow:bloom ratio as the flowering period progresses. Remember, I'm trying to simply my process while maintaining yields and quality . 


*Grown with Botanicare pure blend:*




*Grown with DynaGro:*


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## Mazar i Shariff (Oct 12, 2010)

I'm not an 'i told ya so' kinda guy ... 

I just wanted to point out that I mentioned a few weeks ago the leaves were too dark green and that grow being added anywhere past Week 2 could be the cause due to too much N, possible lockout even. Nice to hear the CEO of Dyna Gro agrees with me, I guess. LOL

The reason why there can easily be too much Nitrogen, is that the nutrient is so vital in it's ability to be broken down and used for creating new vegetatitive growth. Unfort, N is not used in large quantities for Bud Growth. Mainly just leaves, stem/stalk, new branching. While it needs to be present for proper growth during Flower, your vertical growth, branching, ... pretty much stops after the plant is 2-3 weeks into Flower, and it no longer requires anywhere near those higher N levels it once did. People laugh when I said I'm doing a PK spike during flowering and are like, I don't do that my plants need N, too! Well, yes. But in low doses. My Kushie Kush was actually prob my fav ratio and worked better than other nutes towards the end of flowering when I do PK spikes, which consisted of a ratio of 1-7-17. Too much N at the end of flowering will also prevent them from being able to properly autumn off (yellow) and break down the plants chemical concentration so that it can decrease and taste/smoke better in the end. 

And about foliar feeding. For those who choose to do this, you should highly consider lowering your hydro/soil feeds if you are going to feed the plant thru it's vegetation, as well, or you can easily burn even if levels thru both ends are ideal, as the overall qty used will still add up to be too much in the end. 

***Sorry homebrewer, I didn't mean to make such a big post on some stuff that at times can seem Cannabis101, but I felt it was relevent to bring up again since we're discussing your plants condition, Nitrogen toxicity, what DG CEO said, ...


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## homebrewer (Oct 12, 2010)

Mazar i Shariff said:


> I'm not an 'i told ya so' kinda guy ...
> 
> I just wanted to point out that I mentioned a few weeks ago the leaves were too dark green and that grow being added anywhere past Week 2 could be the cause due to too much N, possible lockout even. Nice to hear the CEO of Dyna Gro agrees with me, I guess. LOL
> 
> ...


 Indoor plants don't 'autumn off' naturally. They get the same amount of light and water on day 1 as day 60 and the temps stay the same too. Giving your plant less nitrogen to turn the leaves yellow doesn't mean the plant is done. The ratio of red to white hairs, tric color and overall plant health are all indicators as to when these plants can be harvested.

I'll point to real world examples. Anyone who gardens does not allow the leaves of their garden veggies to turn yellow before they harvest. Tobacco farmers do not harvest when the leaves are yellow. I've worked in corn growing states, are those corn stalks yellow at harvest? I cannot think of a single plant or fruit-bearing tree that needs to be nitrogen deficient before the produce tastes good. How is cannabis any different? It's not. I agree that the nitrogen needs are not the same on day 10 of flower as they are on day 55. That's why I've completely tapered off the grow formula and have been for 2 weeks. I appriciate the input but the goal is to keep them green guys. You don't have to agree with that but I'd challenge you guys to think outside the cannabis forum nonsense and grow these plants like you would grow food in your garden.


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## Mazar i Shariff (Oct 12, 2010)

It's not all about nitrogen in the autuming off, but that does help trigger it (esp indoors). Whether in/out, the plant knows as the buds develop and trichs go amber that it's nearing the end of the cycle. Certainly doesn't NEED change in light or temps to tell it that. I've seen people approaching week 12 and haven't even flushed, but because they keep their nitrogen levels high throughout, they didn't autumn at all. He also was a believer that flushing did nothing. I remember assisting in trimming and I've never cut up such hay-like bud in my life. Smoke was terrible. I was vague in my explaination on that, as I was more pointing out the high N levels thru flowering and ended up rambling about something else. No need to clutter your test forum with another subject that could use a thread on it's own for discussion. 

Back to the point, keep up the hard work and keep us updated!


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## homebrewer (Oct 12, 2010)

Mazar i Shariff said:


> It's not all about nitrogen in the autuming off, but that does help trigger it (esp indoors). Whether in/out, the plant knows as the buds develop and trichs go amber that it's nearing the end of the cycle. Certainly doesn't NEED change in light or temps to tell it that. I've seen people approaching week 12 and haven't even flushed, but because they keep their nitrogen levels high throughout, they didn't autumn at all. He also was a believer that flushing did nothing. I remember assisting in trimming and I've never cut up such hay-like bud in my life. Smoke was terrible. I was vague in my explaination on that, as I was more pointing out the high N levels thru flowering and ended up rambling about something else. No need to clutter your test forum with another subject that could use a thread on it's own for discussion.
> 
> Back to the point, keep up the hard work and keep us updated!


 I think this is relevant as it has to do with NPK ratios and tweaking a 3 part from GH or a 2 part from DG is how you'd adjust said ratios. Too bad you're not my neighbor. I'd slice a nug off for you and change your mind about any kind of off aroma or bad taste with green plants . My AK47s are just as green and have the most pungent grapefruit and ginger smell, it's intoxicating. The dumpster smells more of berries, skunk and earth.


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## KingIV20 (Oct 12, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> Too bad you're not my neighbor.


too bad YOU'RE not MY neighbor...

I'm definitely going to have to give the Dyna Gro nutes a go when I get low on the GH. Plus the Flora Plus and perhaps the Sweet if it mixes well...


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## Mazar i Shariff (Oct 12, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> I think this is relevant as it has to do with NPK ratios and tweaking a 3 part from GH or a 2 part from DG is how you'd adjust said ratios. Too bad you're not my neighbor. I'd slice a nug off for you and change your mind about any kind of off aroma or bad taste with green plants . My AK47s are just as green and have the most pungent grapefruit and ginger smell, it's intoxicating. The dumpster smells more of berries, skunk and earth.


I agree, I think we would make good neighbors!  

Although, a slice of my organic StarTrek right back atcha, and the debate would have to continue! haha

Cheers brotha!


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## Dropastone (Oct 12, 2010)

I just ordered the Grow, Bloom, Tekt and Mag Pro. I've been an avid user of GH for quite some time now but after reading this thread I'm gonna give Dyna Grow a shot. I like the results I've seen so far and and the ease of use is another added bonus. I was gonna go with the foliage Pro but after reading this thread and the reply's from Ryan, the CEO from Dyna-Gro, I decided to go with the Grow instead.

Keep up the great work HB.

Peace.


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## epicseeds (Oct 12, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> What is wrong with green plants? DG is potent and at their suggested rates, I was up to 1900 ppms (including my base water).


I guess I am just used to seeing so many people with yellow leaves near the end of harvest. And for the record, I totally agree with you about keeping the leaves green. I was just worried that since you were using the grow + bloom, and since you said they may take longer to finish that usual - that this may be the reason why. but i guess you used it only the first couple weeks which is a good thing to do in order to "feed the stretch" have you mentioned yet how long you will flush, or if you will even flush?

PS - here are the feeding charts. Is this the same that you have HB?


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## Mazar i Shariff (Oct 13, 2010)

Ty for posting those feed charts epic. I was happy to see the DG recommendations even agree to flush. That's def the way to go, in my opion, if you want to achieve full potential in smoke & flavor. And they still have plenty of nutes left within their nutrient stores to finish, which will all be left in their leaves, leaving the plant to eat at them and 'autumn'. A flush actually doesn't always cause a plant to autumn. Depends how big of feeders they are which is strain dependent, what the chemical/chlorophyll concentration within the plant is, as well as the length of the flush. 

Something for outdoor growers to keep in mind, during the growing season, chlorophyll is continually being produced and broken down, causing leaves to appear green. As night length increases in the autumn, chlorophyll production slows down and then stops, and eventually all the chlorophyll is destroyed. The carotenoids and anthocyanins that are present in the leaf are then unmasked and show their colors, leading to yellow/red/orange, even black leaves, which will later fall if allowed to grow long enough thru this period.

Something for hydro growers to consider, the obvious goal of being indoor is to try to simulate an ideal outdoor enviornment within your enclosure, with the exception of adding animals, bugs, storms, you get my point. 2 ways at the end of the cycle that you can simulate an outdoor enviornment and help your plants finish properly, is to 1) When you begin flushing, start backing your lights down slightly. I've tried 1/hr day for 4 days, so that you will then be down to 8 hours. In the final 3 days I turned the lights COMPLETELY OFF, as this allows the chlorophyll/nutrients to break down even more and forces them into using this as a final boost for extra weight/potency production. 2) In tandem with this controlled light cycle, flushing your reservoir or soil over the course of these 7 days with either Water Only OR Water & Flushing Solution (chelating). Some people do this with a 300ppm dose of bloom nutes, too, but I say just cut the nutes completely and go for a pure flush, unless you wanna go 300PPM the first couple days of the flush then cut down to a lower level in the final stages of the flush. 

Hope this helps!


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## homebrewer (Oct 13, 2010)

Epic- That's the feeding chart that I was using to start but pretty much scrapped it after a few weeks. I don't know what scale they're on but that feeding chart is just too strong. So I measured the PPMs of all the formulas and this is what I came up with (1ml per gallon) on the 442 scale or .71 conversion:

Grow PPM 128 
Bloom PPM 88 
Protekt PPM 12 
MagPro PPM 115

If I add up what they're telling me to use, then it'll put me way over where I need to be. In short, I've just found these nutes to be pretty potent and it doesn't take very much to get up to a desirable range for the plants. Check out post #155 in this thread, it kinda shows how much I've dialed back due to the use of a TDS meter. 

As far as flushing goes, I'm not much of a flusher. Rather, I flush with mild nutes instead of plain water and I flush for maybe 3 days depending on how my plants smell. Just like my corn, tomato and tobacco examples for green plants, those plants aren't flushed before harvest. You can't flush an outdoor plant. You can water with no nutes but there are still minerals in the soil. Organic indoor growers can't flush their plants either and those tree-huggers seem to think their product tastes better than that of inorganic plants. I don't believe flushing is necessary if you've fed your plants correctly during the life cycle (though I still flush for 3 days). In my case where there is some burn, I caught it weeks ago, flushed, made the necessary adjustments and the buds are back to being fragrant and familiar. Uncle Ben's theory on flushing is that it was something the Dutch invented to atone for the sins of overfeeding. I tend to agree with that.


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## ENDLSCYCLE (Oct 14, 2010)

I'm sure you've been asked this before but it's late and I don't feel like thumbing(clicking) through pages....What line up of GH do you use....I use Flora 3part with Floralicious +, Liquid KoolBloom, and FloraBlend....I have found that the feed chart GH tells me to use for this combo is Way too strong...and if I run it at half strength I feel I'm not getting what I should..so I just pump em to the max....what kind of concoction have you brewed up???


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## homebrewer (Oct 14, 2010)

ENDLSCYCLE said:


> I'm sure you've been asked this before but it's late and I don't feel like thumbing(clicking) through pages....What line up of GH do you use....I use Flora 3part with Floralicious +, Liquid KoolBloom, and FloraBlend....I have found that the feed chart GH tells me to use for this combo is Way too strong...and if I run it at half strength I feel I'm not getting what I should..so I just pump em to the max....what kind of concoction have you brewed up???


 I run the same stuff except I also add sweet from botanicare. The GH additives don't contribute much to the ppm so I just make sure the bulk of my nutes are the macros and micros supplied by the base and koolbloom (which is the same thing as florabloom). Sweet on the other hand contributes 100ppm per 5mls/gallon, I believe. So on average, I'll pretty much use the recommended doses for florablend and floralicious, but cut back on the base nutes compared to what is recommended.

Edit: I also use koolbloom dry at the end, forgot to add that one.


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## homebrewer (Oct 15, 2010)

Today is day 60 of 60 and Im going to start harvesting today. Ill be harvesting through Sunday and if I have time, Ill snap a few more pictures this weekend. I was thinking earlier in the week that they may need to go a few more days than normal, but based on the tric color and the overall look of the plants, these ladies are ready. Below are a few pics and Im pretty pleased with how they turned out. As soon as theyre dry with a short cure, Ill write up a final review along with yield totals and a comparative smoke report. 

I'll also be harvesting the GH tray of AK47 early next week and will post some pics of that too. It's relevant in that I currently have an AK47 tray with DG and Floralicious plus going at the moment and I'd like to compare the results of that strain as well. 















http://img230.imageshack.us/i/4014a.jpg/


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## mane2008 (Oct 15, 2010)

Looking really good man. One quick question though if you don't mind.
Will you be making any kind of hash or canna-butter with your trimmings, or do you just toss them?


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## homebrewer (Oct 15, 2010)

mane2008 said:


> Looking really good man. One quick question though if you don't mind.
> Will you be making any kind of hash or canna-butter with your trimmings, or do you just toss them?


 If I had more time on my hands, I would do that. But between a 9-5 job and a few other hobbies, I stay pretty busy . I do make hash from the small buds at the bottoms of the plants from time to time, but that only ever yields a few grams.


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## epicseeds (Oct 15, 2010)

beautiful! looking forward to a taste/frostyness/weight/etc comparison! what are your preliminary feelings...is DG a keeper?


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## homebrewer (Oct 15, 2010)

epicseeds said:


> beautiful! looking forward to a taste/frostyness/weight/etc comparison! what are your preliminary feelings...is DG a keeper?


 All I can say at the moment is 'so far so good' . I should have a full report in 10 days or so.


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## Lt. Dan (Oct 15, 2010)

Congrats on the tasty looking crop. You make this look easy


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## Mazar i Shariff (Oct 15, 2010)

Nice bro ... Can you take a pic with a lighter or something next to one of your larger nugs so it can scale it and give us an idea of what size you achieved? How is the density looking?


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## homebrewer (Oct 15, 2010)

Mazar i Shariff said:


> Nice bro ... Can you take a pic with a lighter or something next to one of your larger nugs so it can scale it and give us an idea of what size you achieved? How is the density looking?


 They're only about as wide as your fists. You don't want to grow huge buds with this strain, they'll mold because of the density. That's why I topped in veg and supercropped in flower.


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## reggaerican (Oct 15, 2010)

beautifull plants homebrew


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## anomolies (Oct 15, 2010)

Mazar i Shariff said:


> I'm not an 'i told ya so' kinda guy ...
> 
> I just wanted to point out that I mentioned a few weeks ago the leaves were too dark green and that grow being added anywhere past Week 2 could be the cause due to too much N, possible lockout even. Nice to hear the CEO of Dyna Gro agrees with me, I guess. LOL
> 
> ...


IMO I think some strains actually use a little bit more N in bloom than in veg. I was using 3-1-2 in veg and when I switched to 2-2-3 in bloom I started getting mad yellowing.


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## mane2008 (Oct 16, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> If I had more time on my hands, I would do that. But between a 9-5 job and a few other hobbies, I stay pretty busy . I do make hash from the small buds at the bottoms of the plants from time to time, but that only ever yields a few grams.


Aww that kinda sucks, anyways congrats on your soon to be monstrous harvest! I'll be tuning into all your future grows. hopefully you'll tune into mines when i start back up.


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## homebrewer (Oct 19, 2010)

Here are a few bud shots today of my AK47 being grown with GH. They're a few days past 60 and I've decided to harvest over the next few days. These will serve as a reference point for my AK47 tray with DG and Floralicious Plus nutes (should be done in about 3 weeks). These buds really aren't that big at all but this plant/pheno/strain is a deceivingly good yielder. The plant will be covered with these golf ball sized buds (and larger) but their density is good and the final total weight is what is important. For example, I harvested 3 AK dirt plants out of a group of 9 that were being grown under a 600 and the total from all 3 was 8.1 ounces. I was a little surprised in that the plants actually looked kinda skimpy. 

Anyways, here are some shots of their final hours. Hopefully the DG and Floralicious plus tray looks just as good, though the yield on the DG tray looks to be better than the GH tray, too early to call though.


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## OGPanda (Oct 19, 2010)

Looks so damn good!!!


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## shnkrmn (Oct 19, 2010)

Homebrewer, those are spankworthy


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## nixusr (Oct 19, 2010)

Very nice grow! Nice photography too! I wish my cam's macro setting actually shot like this!

Can't wait to see the outcome of the DG tray! Drums are rolling....


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## bob stine (Oct 19, 2010)

i always used DG because i started out with it and orchids....i like botanicare's Cal-Mg better though it has a 2-0-0 and i use it for seedlings @ 100ppm and its never failed one of those medical books say to much 'K' and i think 'P' causes more males etc.....anyways i find DG grows everything good another good fertilizer i've used for N and K supplementation and its cheap is MSU fertilizer its great for vegging anything really super concentrate etc....i use GH nectar for the humic/fulvic acid not sure if this really helps though @ about 50ppm and i always add a 1/4 teaspoon of blackstrap etc....again not sure if humic acid helps much with hydro-nutes well if their organic but not the inorganic types ....oh botnicare's cal-mg @ 100ppm in RO water sets the ph @ 5.5-6.0 just about as good as it gets for hydro setups


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## Sir Psycho Sexy (Oct 20, 2010)

You're the man brew. i've been silently following along and am thinking about doing a similar experiment, only i'd compare cheap powder nutes (GH maxibloom and gro) to, say, the DG line with protekt then do the math and compare cost per gram.

Simplicity is also a HUGE plus because I grow at a friends house (i grow the bud they pay electricity and get a cut) and between work and school i only have time and motivation to go over there twice a week at the most. This setup also means that, apart from the startup costs, the cost of fertilizer is pretty much the only thing coming out of my pocket.

So this might apply to me a bit more than you guys, but thought you might be interested. Im actually yielding suprisingly well using just GH gro and bloom powder. changed the water maybe 3 or 4 times since first setting up the clones in tubs, topped off every few days to a week. Rarely kept track of ppm never checked ph. So pretty neglected in other words. However, it wasn't until recently (im in the last week of flowering) that i had ratio problems and got some fucked up burnt/deficient looking leaves. And the nugs dont seem to mind at all at this point just swelling and ripening.. i'm not talking about gram per watt kind of yields but they did great considering the circumstances. I'll post pics on harvest day.

So thats the plan, compare a low cost/low maintainance grow to a line of hydro nutes in carefully balanced ratios and find the best compromise between the two. Suggestions?

Keep doing what you do homebrew, we'll be waiting for the final verdict

Peace


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## RastaMonsta (Oct 20, 2010)

hmm im not sure if that DG is compeating too well against that GH.mayb its the additives but those buds look fucking sick bro! awesome pictures,makes me feel like they are in my face. i wish i could smell them.lol


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## homebrewer (Oct 20, 2010)

Thanks for the compliments fellas!

Sir Psycho Sexy - I've heard good things about maxi grow before. There are a lot of formulas out there that probably work very well and knowing that cheaper powder formulas can work as well as their expensive liquid counterparts is good to know! 

Rasta - If I was only comparing base nutes, I don't think there would be any difference in the appearance of the buds. There is nothing offered in the GH 3 part that DG isn't offering in their grow/bloom formulas. In fact, the DG base offers about 6 more micro nutrients than GH. The reason I use Sweet, FloraBlend, Floralicious plus and koolbloom dry with the GH 3 part is that they all seem to increase overall plant health as well as resin production. In a few weeks I'll be comparing the final results of the AK47 pics above to the AK47 that's currently being grown with DG and Floralicious plus. Visual appearance aside, final yields and the smoke report should available next week for the dumpster grow and that's ultimately what matters. Thanks for following along and I'm really excited for the results. 

Here is a preliminary nug shot of a DynaGro Dumpster bud that isn't quite dry yet.


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## Mazar i Shariff (Oct 20, 2010)

mmmmmm ... yum

Load me a bowl of that, please! 

Mazar


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## OGPanda (Oct 21, 2010)

Wish I could smell the dankness!!!


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## homebrewer (Oct 25, 2010)

The initial point of this comparison was to see if a complete fertilizer like DynaGro could compete with the results that I get from my beloved GH line. While I was not looking to switch nutrient brands, secretly I was hoping to find something that could simplify my process while giving me the same quality that I already get from GH. I chose DynaGro because their grow formula and bloom formula by themselves supply total and complete plant nutrition without the hassle of expensive additives. While there are many, many other fertilizer companies out there that I couldve compared to GH, I wasnt about to test some over-priced, over-marketed, incomplete formula with wacky NPK ratios sold as boosters. Plant nutrition isnt sexy or trendy, its about the sixteen to seventeen essential macro and micro nutrients. Ill try to keep this conclusion short-and-sweet so if I leave something out, feel free to ask questions.

*What I initially liked about DynaGro:*

The ease of use is something that I immediately noticed along with crystal clear flood and drain tables. What I mean is that mixing up the nutrients in the reservoir required fewer trips to my fertilizer room and once the nutes were mixed up, the res remained crystal clear. Over time, I had less mineral salt build-up and when I would flush every few weeks, I noticed that DynaGro left half the amount of salts as compared to GH (measured by a TDS meter).

*PH Stability:*

DynaGros pH stability is as good as it gets. Over the course of a 60 day grow, I think I adjusted the pH four or five times (probably due to over-feeding) whereas I adjusted the GH pH three to four times per week. Comparatively, no matter what water source youre using, DynaGros pH will remain as stable as or more stable than any nutrient on the market. For some, this may not be that big of an issue, but for those of you running multiple reservoirs on larger scale grows, this makes life a lot easier. Also, depending on your tap water pH and the ratio of ProTekt to base nutes, your res will sometimes require an initial pH adjustment when you change your reservoir. Unless youre topping-off with tap water with a pH of 8 or 9, I dont foresee any further pH adjustments being required over the course of a week 

*Price:*

Its a little unfair to compare the prices of each of the nute lines here in their entirety. The additives for either company arent required but do help depending on your situation. So for a price comparison, Ill just compare the base nutrients as that is really all your plants actually_ need_. The GH micro and bloom combo in flower at a 1350ppm runs about $37 to use over 9 weeks in my 15 gallon res. The grow and bloom combo from DynaGro at the same ppm, volume, and frequency of reservoir changes runs about $16 to use over 9 weeks. A lot of us arent that price-sensitive when it comes to nutes or grow room supplies, but paying less than half for an easier, more complete base nutrient line whose pH is rock solid is simply the best-case-scenario. 

*Yield:*

This was my first run with DynaGro nutrients and comparing yields could be a little unfair seeing how Ive used GH for years and have grown this dumpster strain dozens of times with these GH nutes. Like clockwork, the dumpster strain yields about 16 to 16.5 ounces with GH nutes under my 600 watt HPS. It doesnt seem to matter how tall or short they are when they go into flower, the yield is something I can always count on. My first run with DynaGro yielded a total of 17.2 ounces which is an increase of 6% over my average GH yields with this strain. What this tells me is that with some tweaking in the future, DG nutes will out-yield GH while making the growing experience a lot easier. 

*Quality:*

During this grow, I noticed a slight difference in resin production between these two companies; GH having the upper hand. If I was comparing base nutrients alone, the results would in all likelihood be identical in regards to resin. But because I was using products like Sweet, Floralicious Plus and Florablend in conjunction with the GH base, there was a 10-20% difference in resin production when using General Hydroponics. However, according to the smoke reports, the extra resin did _not_ translate to a more potent product. In fact, one of the testers said the DynaGro product was _more_ potent and had a longer duration than that of the GH grown dumpster. I, along with another tester, both agreed that the product grown with DynaGro was simply spectacular and every bit as good as the product grown with GH, despite the slight difference in resin. To be honest, I actually thought the intensity and duration of the high seemed stronger and longer in the product grown with DG nutes, but Im not about to make the statement that DG grows a more potent product. In regards to taste, none of the testers made a comment about the taste being different between the two nutrient companies. 



In summation, Ive really liked working with DynaGro. Its an easy nutrient to use, its clean, pH perfect, and grows a simply fantastic product. I was also able to yield more of the same high quality product (some would argue the product was better with DG) at less than half the cost. Ive decided to switch my base nutrients to DynaGro and ditch about 6 products from GH. I plan on continuing to experiment with sweet, floralicious plus and florablend, though after the smoke reports and my own impressions of the product grown with DynaGro, this may be pointless. Why chase more resin when it made no difference in potency and would add additional cost and steps to my process? I want to be clear on something here; Im not switching to DynaGro because I feel that GH is inferior. DynaGro just makes my life easier. For me, I want to grow the best plants I can with the least amount of hassle. DynaGro allows me to do this and for those of you who operate in multiple rooms with 1000s of watts, you know that pH adjusting, mixing nutes, and general plant maintenance all add up to hours and hours everyday. Not to mention the fact that less nutrient bottles means fewer trips to the Hydro store. 

Finally, here are some fully dried bud shots of Dumpster grown with DynaGro. I appreciate you guys following along. Stay tuned for an update on the AK47 tray grown with DG nutes and floralicious plus (smoke report to be included). Also, I have an AK47 in the dirt being grown with DG nutes and Ill be updating the results of that plant in about 40 days.


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## shnkrmn (Oct 25, 2010)

You should get a medal for going all the way through this comparison. Maybe you should see what happens with DG combined with GH supplements. I don't use supplements, I believe less is more, so I'm more than happy to believe the fewer products you use the better, taste, impact, yield should be. I don't know if I can rep you again yet, but I'm gonna try.


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## bigsourD (Oct 25, 2010)

Good report homebrewer, awesome info that would be helpful to most!


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## surphin (Oct 25, 2010)

Awesome report! Thanks again for taking the time to log and post your results, lots of good info in this thread.


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## Dropastone (Oct 25, 2010)

Outstanding work HB. I've been following along from the beginning and after reading the reports I had already come to the conclusion that DG was the way to go. So I've already made the switch from GH to DG about two weeks ago and I can already tell a difference between the two. My pH has been rock solid since I made the switch and to me, that alone was well worth it.

Thanks for all your efforts.

Peace.


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## Sir Psycho Sexy (Oct 25, 2010)

cool thanks for going through all the trouble so we dont have to. I was hoping DG would come out on top because despite GH making damn good stuff I don't agree with how they do business. Specifically, threatening to pull their products from hydro stores unless the store stops carrying the products of competitors who make cannabis-specific nutrients. To be fair i've only heard this in forums so its possible that this rumor is untrue or exaggerated. No matter, the price and PH stability are enough to convince me.


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## Lt. Dan (Oct 25, 2010)

Thanks for your time.

Being new, this thread has helped me..... alot!

Peace,

P.S. Those buds look so tasty


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## KingIV20 (Oct 25, 2010)

Very impressive my friend, as well as very very helpful. Thanks for taking the time to post your experiment for the rest of us!

King


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## RyanTheRhino (Oct 25, 2010)

Nice, I guess my hydro guy knows his stuff. I asked him what to get my first time with hydro and he pointed out the dayno grow. I have been using ever since... all you do is fill the rez and pour in the right amount of nutes. the only thing you have to rember is to use the bloom in flower and the grow in veg. and thats good because my shit gets me high..;.


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## OGPanda (Oct 25, 2010)

As always, some bomb shit!


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## nixusr (Oct 25, 2010)

Unbelievable! Good job HB. Following along with this thread made me feel like I watched a baby get delivered. I had no clue what to use for my first grow and your thread put me right on track.

Big ups!


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## epicseeds (Oct 25, 2010)

I am so happy to hear this man. I have literally spent the last month or so researching, researching and researching. I read countless threads by fatman, UB, and tapla. The general consensus always came to a balanced NPL and a full and complete diet of micros. Dyna-Gro has always been on the top of my list, and this just proves why. A close 2nd is CNS17 and I hope to do a comparison grow similar to this with Dyna-Gro vs CNS17 in late Jan. 

Dyna-Gro is also ran by some spectacular people. I have emailed countless companies about their lines and Ryan from DG and I have been chatting back and forth for weeks now - he truly is one of a kind.

Thanks for the spectacular thread! Please keep us updated on further findings. Also, did you ever detail the feeding schedule for bloom and any tweaks you did?


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## homebrewer (Oct 27, 2010)

shnkrmn said:


> You should get a medal for going all the way through this comparison. Maybe you should see what happens with DG combined with GH supplements. I don't use supplements, I believe less is more, so I'm more than happy to believe the fewer products you use the better, taste, impact, yield should be. I don't know if I can rep you again yet, but I'm gonna try.


I totally agree that less is more when it comes to NPK boosters and that is especially true when you're already working with a complete base nutrient that has a great NPK ratio. _But_, a floralicious plus sort of additive seems to be doing the trick as far as equalizing the resin production between these two brands and it doesn't affect the pH. Will that make a difference in the end? I'll be sure to let you know. Thanks for following along! 



Dropastone said:


> Outstanding work HB. I've been following along from the beginning and after reading the reports I had already come to the conclusion that DG was the way to go. So I've already made the switch from GH to DG about two weeks ago and I can already tell a difference between the two. My pH has been rock solid since I made the switch and to me, that alone was well worth it.
> 
> Thanks for all your efforts.
> 
> Peace.


I'm glad DG is working out for you so far. The pH and ease of use almost sold me at the start. Hopefully your end product meets your expectations as it did mine. 



epicseeds said:


> I am so happy to hear this man. I have literally spent the last month or so researching, researching and researching. I read countless threads by fatman, UB, and tapla. The general consensus always came to a balanced NPL and a full and complete diet of micros. Dyna-Gro has always been on the top of my list, and this just proves why. A close 2nd is CNS17 and I hope to do a comparison grow similar to this with Dyna-Gro vs CNS17 in late Jan.
> 
> Dyna-Gro is also ran by some spectacular people. I have emailed countless companies about their lines and Ryan from DG and I have been chatting back and forth for weeks now - he truly is one of a kind.
> 
> Thanks for the spectacular thread! Please keep us updated on further findings. Also, did you ever detail the feeding schedule for bloom and any tweaks you did?


Yeah, Ryan is the man. I've spoken with a female over there too and she really knows her stuff as well. I also like GH for the same reasons. They really know their products over there at GH and have always been very helpful when I've had questions for them. I give DG the edge though because they talk about plant nutrition as a whole and not just about their specific products. After calling DynaGro, I feel like I've left a botany class. They arm you with more than just info about their products, they give you the science behind things which allows us as growers to make better decisions in regards to our plants. 

As far as a feeding schedule, I think a combo of grow/bloom for the first 3 weeks is definitely necessary (maybe 30% grow). I'd even use a grow/bloom combo through week six actually (maybe 20% grow from weeks 4-6). I feel like weeks 7-9 are ok with just bloom as that is what my AKs are on right now and they're still green. When I say 30% grow, I'm speaking strickly about ppms and the ratio of grow to bloom. Grow is more potent than bloom so 30% grow based on ppm is 1.5 mls grow and 5 mls bloom per gallon. I think a feeding schedule is strain dependent and ultimately it's about how the plants respond to the feeding. This is the schedule I'm working with at the moment and _my_ goal is to keep them green to the end. Thanks for following along! If you have the space, try a head-to-head of DG and CNS.


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## RastaMonsta (Oct 27, 2010)

preety fukin sweet experiment bro! so 17.5 ounces from the DG with no suppliments. looks like ur switching over to DG now huh? 

how do you dry and cure so fast? the buds look top notch. im getting high just lookng at them.


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## homebrewer (Oct 27, 2010)

RastaMonsta said:


> preety fukin sweet experiment bro! so 17.5 ounces from the DG with no suppliments. looks like ur switching over to DG now huh?


 17.2 ounces with DynaGro with ProTekt and Magpro. Magpro according the the folks at DG is designed for people who use RO water. My water is a little hard so I only use it at a rate of 1ml/gallon or so. It's potent, 1ml per gallon adds about 110ppms. So yeah, I'm switching to the DynaGro line and am experimenting with GH suppliments to see if they'll make a difference in the end product. 



> how do you dry and cure so fast? the buds look top notch. im getting high just lookng at them.


I dry by hanging the buds on string in a separate room with a dehumidifier. Once they're dry to the touch, I put them in 1 gallon freezer bags. After 24 hours they'll sweat at which point I leave them out for another 24 hours. I'll repeat this process until the buds are dry and this takes maybe 10 days total. I don't have the space or the time to 'cure' buds over weeks and weeks but I will cure my own personal stash. Between the quick cure and a mason-jar-style longer cure, the cured buds are just more smooth. Both ways produce knockout potency which I think is more of a function of how it's grown and the genetics. IMO, if someone needs to cure for 4 weeks to get potent smoke, they should probably look at their growing practices and their genetics. Two weeks should produce face-numbing, mind-melting potency.


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## Imaulle (Oct 28, 2010)

any input on using DG foliage pro + DG pro-tekt in soil (sunshine mix #4)



thanks


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## homebrewer (Oct 28, 2010)

Imaulle said:


> any input on using DG foliage pro + DG pro-tekt in soil (sunshine mix #4)
> 
> 
> 
> thanks


 I think it would work just fine for the veg period. I personally wouldn't use it start to finish as I like a different ratio in flower. I don't know how potent it is either but my DynaGro dirt plant is only using 3mls of nutes per gallon and only using 1/2 gallon per watering. That's pretty cheap. Also, the high nitrogen content may be a little high for younger plants.


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## Imaulle (Oct 28, 2010)

oh right yeah I just meant for the veg period. I bought foliage pro, pro-tekt, and the bloom. I am using RO water so I probably need to buy the mag pro.. I was thinking about trying the K-L-N stuff too maybe?


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## homebrewer (Oct 28, 2010)

Imaulle said:


> I was thinking about trying the K-L-N stuff too maybe?


 Looks like an interesting product. Personally, I don't have an issue with clones rooting but I might give KLN a try after I run out of superthrive. That's probably the only time that I'd use either product.


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## [email protected] (Oct 28, 2010)

wow i just read both your journals strait through and all i can say is WOW you really know what your doing.... bravo

your my hero  i would give you rep but i guess i already did on another thread and its not letting me. i do have a few questions and was hoping you would grace me with your infinite knowledge.

1. how long do you veg for and do you or do you not trim the little bud site from the bottom of the plants?

2.have you ever tried AN? I just bought a liter of there base nutes because my bro was jockin the shit outta them and i want to know your opinion about them

3.I herd you say somthing about growing in soil.. i also grow in soil and was wondering how often i should feed? if its a weekly feeding schedual should i force water feed water on them even if they dont need it? I dont want to over water

4. also you said you think growing in soil is harder. can you elaberate on that because i always hear the opposite.

5. Do you or have you ever used something like mad farmers M.O.A.B. and what do you think of it and how do you use it?

okay so it was more than a few questions, but i have a lot more but dont want to ask too much. If you answer just one of these questions i will feel lucky. thanks and again your the man


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## homebrewer (Oct 28, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> wow i just read both your journals strait through and all i can say is WOW you really know what your doing.... bravo


Thanks for following along. I hope it helped.





> 1. how long do you veg for and do you or do you not trim the little bud site from the bottom of the plants?


I veg for about 3-4 weeks. It's staggered so as soon as one crop is done, more plants are ready to replace them in the hydro trays.

As far as trimming goes, I do and I don't depending on the strain. My AK47 gets a little too branchy, so I feel that it does help to trim some of those spindly, thin branches at the bottom to increase airflow and to make trimming a little easier in the end.




> 2.have you ever tried AN? I just bought a liter of there base nutes because my bro was jockin the shit outta them and i want to know your opinion about them


No, I'll never try AN. Plant nutrition is about the back of the bottle, not the glossy artwork or the price tag. It's about what's _in_ the product. Compare what is in your bottles to that of a cheaper nutrient and you'll find that you just overpaid for a product that works no better than anything else. AN will work and you'll grow plants with it, but at a high price. Stay tuned for my DynaGro soil girl who is going to cost less than 50 cents in nutrients to grow through the whole flower cycle (update Friday). 



> 3.I herd you say somthing about growing in soil.. i also grow in soil and was wondering how often i should feed? if its a weekly feeding schedual should i force water feed water on them even if they dont need it? I dont want to over water


Feed, Feed, Flush is how I do it. I 'pick up and feel' to determine when they need watered. I grow in 5 gallon buckets with 3 gallons of promix. I usually use botanicare pureblend bloom (5mls/gallon) and liquid karma at 5mls/gallon. 



> 4. also you said you think growing in soil is harder. can you elaberate on that because i always hear the opposite.


I seem to have more issues with mites in soil. Soil isn't as consistent to dry out as my rockwool blocks, and it's also time consuming to water all my dirt plants. Considering my timers water my hydro tables and my only real responsibility is to make sure there is water in the res, hydro growing is almost like autopilot-growing. Take now for instance, my plants are being watered and I'm typing. Doesn't get much easier than that . Now on a small scale, like under 6 plants, dirt is probably easier. But on larger scale grows, that can create a lot of dirt waste and be very time consuming to water each and every plant when they need it.




> 5. Do you or have you ever used something like mad farmers M.O.A.B. and what do you think of it and how do you use it?


I have no idea what that is


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## [email protected] (Oct 28, 2010)

by flush do u mean 5 times the medium or just watering with plain water

and moab is an aggressive p-k fert u use the last two weeks of flowering




Manufacturer: Mad Farmer
Description:
The name says it all, Mother Of All Blooms. M.O.A.B. is a superior bud expander that is proven to produce dramatic results in your garden. The combination of price and effectiveness makes M.O.A.B the best bargain on the market. M.O.A.B. is proven to both jumpstart and restart flower production during the flowering cycle.

Derived From: Mono Potassium Phosphate, Mono Ammonium Phosphate, Also contains Thiamine Hydrochloride (Vitamin B-1)

Ingredients Explained: Mother of All Bloom is derived from three main ingredients; Mono Potassium Phosphate, Mono Ammonium Phosphate, and Thiamine Hydrochloride. Mono Potassium Phosphate is a chemical fertilizer that is processed by mixing phosphoric acid with potassium chloride and then heated to remove all traces of hydrogen and chloride. It is used widely as a fertilizer when high levels of Phosphorous (52%) and Potassium (34%) are needed. Mono Ammonium Phosphate is a chemical fertilizer formed when phosphoric acid is mixed with ammonia. It is mainly used in the blending of dry agricultural fertilizers. It supplies Nitrogen (11%) and Phosphorous (52%). Finally, Thiamine Hydrochloride is a B vitamin which helps plants resist transplant shock as well as helping with root development.

Application: M.O.A.B. should be used in the first week of flowering to jump start flower production. Use the final two weeks of flowering to restart aggressive flower production. Combine 1-2 Teaspoon of M.O.A.B. per 5 gallons of feed water.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270638499046&rvr_id=159872440618&crlp=1_263602_304642&UA=WVS?&GUID=c09a2cc812a0a0265297c237ff97c321&itemid=270638499046&ff4=263602_304642


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## homebrewer (Oct 28, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> by flush do u mean 5 times the medium or just watering with plain water
> 
> and moab is an aggressive p-k fert u use the last two weeks of flowering


 By 'flush', I mean I'll water in the same volume as normal, except only use water or water plus sweet from botanicare. 

That bloombooster looks like koolbloom dry. My issue with those types of boosters is that if you're using a complete fertilizer with a good NPK for flowering, you don't need those types of products. Your plants can only use a certain amount of food, the rest gets wasted or will just burn the plant. Feed the plant with a product like DynaGro and you can kiss those boosters goodbye .


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## homebrewer (Oct 29, 2010)

Here is an update of my AK47 being grown in promix with DG nutes (close to day 30). She's getting 3mls of food per gallon and being watered as needed (every 4 days?). She's on a mix of 1 part grow and 2 parts bloom which is roughly a 1-2-1 NPK ratio. The goal of this is not to yield big, but rather to see if DG can perform in the dirt. So far, so good.


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## DaveCoulier (Oct 30, 2010)

That Ak-47 is just amazing. Ive never seen a more healthy plant from top to bottom. That makes me want to stop messing around with organics, and just switch to Dyna-Grow. Perhaps a test is in order some day. Organics vs Dyna-Grow?!?!?!

I just looked back at the pics, and realized there are buds in it. All I could notice was the beautiful foliage at first. Foliage is so much more sexy than buds..or am I just really weird?


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## [email protected] (Oct 31, 2010)

what was your feeding schedule with the dg in hydro? did you use all five products?


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## homebrewer (Oct 31, 2010)

DaveCoulier said:


> That Ak-47 is just amazing. Ive never seen a more healthy plant from top to bottom. That makes me want to stop messing around with organics, and just switch to Dyna-Grow. Perhaps a test is in order some day. Organics vs Dyna-Grow?!?!?!
> 
> I just looked back at the pics, and realized there are buds in it. All I could notice was the beautiful foliage at first. Foliage is so much more sexy than buds..or am I just really weird?


 Thanks Dave! I think regardless of the food source (organic vs inorganic), it's important to supply what the plant needs in the amounts that are needed. If that can be done organically then I would assume the results would be pretty similar. I gotta admit though that I really like how easy DG makes it.


> what was your feeding schedule with the dg in hydro? did you use all five products?


My schedule at the start was a little strong since I didn't have a TDS meter and was just going off the recommended schedule from DG. I used their 4 products and am still tweaking a good grow/bloom mix. A few pages back I posted what I was using during this grow.


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## jawbrodt (Oct 31, 2010)

Looking good, bro. Mine just hit day 38, and are doing great, as well. Gotta love that Dynagro, eh?


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## RastaMonsta (Nov 1, 2010)

i fucking hate mixing nutes and ph'ing my water. + i alwayz manage to get water and coco on my floor.so not only is it a pain in the ass to water/feed i gotta clean up rite after too. i need to read more on hydro.


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## Carbon (Nov 1, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> Looks like an interesting product. Personally, I don't have an issue with clones rooting but I might give KLN a try after I run out of superthrive. That's probably the only time that I'd use either product.


KLN is a combination of IBA and NAA. IBA is in about all rooting compounds or gels. NAA is hormone that encourages the small hair-like roots. I believe there is also some type of vitamin compound too, but don't know what it is. 
Some commercial plant growers will stick all their cuttings then drench the media w/ KLN. They really don't have the time to screw w/ dripping cutting individually. KLN can be used into veg to increase root mass. It is a similar product to Dip 'N Grow. 
I like to soak cuts for 1/2 hr or so in 1t of ProTek and 1T of KLN per gallon water before sticking, then use what's left to saturate the media. That is a pretty aggressive amount of KLN, but works for me.

Carbon


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## bob stine (Nov 1, 2010)

Carbon said:


> KLN is a combination of IBA and NAA. IBA is in about all rooting compounds or gels. NAA is hormone that encourages the small hair-like roots. I believe there is also some type of vitamin compound too, but don't know what it is.
> Some commercial plant growers will stick all their cuttings then drench the media w/ KLN. They really don't have the time to screw w/ dripping cutting individually. KLN can be used into veg to increase root mass. It is a similar product to Dip 'N Grow.
> I like to soak cuts for 1/2 hr or so in 1t of ProTek and 1T of KLN per gallon water before sticking, then use what's left to saturate the media. That is a pretty aggressive amount of KLN, but works for me.
> 
> Carbon


KLN is a really good product and yep very flexible because its liquid....it does contain nitrogen though and i know it hates light...but in a bubble cloner it can't be beat i use all dyna-gro products ...but the guy at htgsupply showed me the general hydroponics diamond nectar so i'm trying it however not sure if its even needed in hydro...i'm interested in trying floralicious as a supplement maybe every couple feedings or so thanks to this thread ...i don't like having alot of nutes either thats why i've always only used dyna-gro especially with tomatoes i use bloom formula+cal-mag and it works great.....only reason i say tomatoes is because their harder to grow well than cannabis


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## BRD (Nov 11, 2010)

Homebrewer thanks for the info great thread. Just wondering what kind of a schedule you would use for veg with the DG product line. I like the thought of not have to adjust PH all of the time.


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## homebrewer (Nov 11, 2010)

BRD said:


> Homebrewer thanks for the info great thread. Just wondering what kind of a schedule you would use for veg with the DG product line. I like the thought of not have to adjust PH all of the time.


 For veg, i generally run about 500-700ppm depending on the size of the plants. Based on my water and the potency of the DG 7-9-5 grow formula, that's only like 3-5mls/gallon. I'll usually throw some protekt at 3mls/gallon in there just to make it harder for those damn mites to take hold.


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## RastaMonsta (Nov 12, 2010)

any updates on the DG with the additives? or the ak's n soil?


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## homebrewer (Nov 12, 2010)

As I mentioned earlier, I am continuing to test DynaGro and some of the GH additives. The pics below are from my AK47 tray grown with DG and _Floralicious Plus_ and the goal was to even out the slight difference in resin production between the two brands. _ Floralicious plus_ costs about $4 to run in my res for 9 weeks so this additive isnt dirt-cheap but does provide some benefit for the plants. Generally, I like a good base and my additives are usually fulvic/humic acid and sea kelp type products like _liquid karma_ or _Floralicious plus_. Compare the pics below to the pics on page 20 which is AK47 grown with GH nutes and additives. I still think GH has the edge when it comes to resin production but DynaGro gave me a chunkier harvest. All six AK47 plants are harvested and hanging so Ill know some numbers in a few weeks, but just like I could tell that the Dumpster crop was bigger, this AK47 crop is bigger. Also, if you recall the smoke reports from the Dumpster harvest, the slight difference in resin production played no role in potency. I should have a smoke report on this AK47 around the same time as my DynaGro in the dirt test is finishing up. 










A quick trim:


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## RastaMonsta (Nov 13, 2010)

wow,you alwayz take bad ass pictures. so the resin production now is more for bag appeal. if no real difference in quality your just trying to make it look preety rite? still here waiting on comparison between the ak's. how long u got left on them? in 2 weeks when i harvest i will be switching to a flood and drain setup and ma go pick up the DG nutes your using.


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## homebrewer (Nov 13, 2010)

RastaMonsta said:


> wow,you alwayz take bad ass pictures. so the resin production now is more for bag appeal. if no real difference in quality your just trying to make it look preety rite? still here waiting on comparison between the ak's. how long u got left on them? in 2 weeks when i harvest i will be switching to a flood and drain setup and ma go pick up the DG nutes your using.


 The AK's are chopped and hanging and I'll have a smoke report in a few weeks. The slight difference in resin made no difference according to the smoke reports I got back about the dumpster so in a sense, I'm just trying to make the DG product look prettier. Contrary to what you might assume, myself and another tester found the DG product to actually be more potent despite having less visible resin. But products like sweet and floralicious don't just make things _look_ better, they can increase yields, aromas, feed the microbes, stimulate root growth, provide important minerals for plant growth and increase nutrient uptake.


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## epicseeds (Nov 13, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> 1.5 mls grow and 5 mls bloom per gallon. I think a feeding schedule is strain dependent


what do you think about dyna-grows feeding chart? in a recirulating system they say to use as much as 15ml of bloom. i will be using coco and if you are using much lower levels for your recirculation i can only imagine i would need to use even less in coco.





> Thanks for following along! If you have the space, try a head-to-head of DG and CNS.


i have decided to do this late Jan. i will be trying DG, CNS, and either connie or jacks hydro + CalNit


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## homebrewer (Nov 13, 2010)

epicseeds said:


> what do you think about dyna-grows feeding chart? in a recirulating system they say to use as much as 15ml of bloom. i will be using coco and if you are using much lower levels for your recirculation i can only imagine i would need to use even less in coco.
> 
> 
> 
> i have decided to do this late Jan. i will be trying DG, CNS, and either connie or jacks hydro + CalNit


 The best way to figure out a feeding schedule is use your TDS meter and feed at about 1.5 EC. You may find some strains can handle more but you certainly wont run deficient. Personally, I think the recommended DG schedule is too strong, but it's a generic schedule and even if it was made for cannabis, strains vary. Their nutes are pretty concentrated so with 5mls of protekt and bloom per gallon, 1ml of grow and magpro per gallon, I'm close to 1000ppm which also includes my base water. The plants love it and so does my wallet . Additionally, I only feed my DG dirt girl 3mls of bloom per watering. She's doing very well and at 3mls/gallon, that plant will cost about 50 cents to grow.


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## cbrob (Nov 14, 2010)

Homebrewer,
what happens to the roots in your ebb and flow table? are they contained in the plastic wrap on the cube, or are they just hanging out on the tray?
thx


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## homebrewer (Nov 14, 2010)

cbrob said:


> Homebrewer,
> what happens to the roots in your ebb and flow table? are they contained in the plastic wrap on the cube, or are they just hanging out on the tray?
> thx


 The roots are contained in the rockwool cubes and the plastic wrap around the cubes keeps the roots from traveling too far. That and the lack of moisture outside of the cubes keeps the roots contained.


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## sharl (Nov 14, 2010)

thanks for all your posting. really so informative!
question for you, if you dont mind. got some plants in sushine mix, some in flower for two weeks, some just flipped today. been feeding them some growmore brand (sort of greenhouse industry nutes with pretty good ratios). been feeding at about 2.3 ec. just flushed em all and am about to start my dyna nutes. got grow and bloom plus proteckt stuff. no magpro though. i do have cal mag by botanicare. the difference being calmag has iron but no extra sulphur. think thatll be a problem? using ro and mostly go for 5mls a gallon with it. somewhere around 150 to 200 ppms i think. also, youre using 3mls or so on your dirt plants or so and i was a little confused about all this conversion talk. i got a hanna (.5 conversion), do i just use you numbers for guidelines as stated or .......? just cause i read you had a .7 conversion and got all mixed up. not sure if thats a silly question. thanks for all your time and hopefully for a response.


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## homebrewer (Nov 14, 2010)

sharl said:


> thanks for all your posting. really so informative!
> question for you, if you dont mind. got some plants in sushine mix, some in flower for two weeks, some just flipped today. been feeding them some growmore brand (sort of greenhouse industry nutes with pretty good ratios). been feeding at about 2.3 ec. just flushed em all and am about to start my dyna nutes. got grow and bloom plus proteckt stuff. no magpro though. i do have cal mag by botanicare. the difference being calmag has iron but no extra sulphur. think thatll be a problem? using ro and mostly go for 5mls a gallon with it. somewhere around 150 to 200 ppms i think. also, youre using 3mls or so on your dirt plants or so and i was a little confused about all this conversion talk. i got a hanna (.5 conversion), do i just use you numbers for guidelines as stated or .......? just cause i read you had a .7 conversion and got all mixed up. not sure if thats a silly question. thanks for all your time and hopefully for a response.


My meter is on the 442 scale or a .7 conversion (http://www.hydroponics.net/learn/debate_over_ec_and_tds.asp). So in dirt, 3mls of nutes is looking like plenty based on my tap water.

Calmag should be a decent sub for magpro given RO water. I don't use RO water and use 1ml/gallon of magpro in my hydro res. For the record, I think 1.5-2 EC is plenty for a lot of plants. Hopefully yours are doing ok at 2.3.


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## sharl (Nov 14, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> My meter is on the 442 scale or a .7 conversion (http://www.hydroponics.net/learn/debate_over_ec_and_tds.asp). So in dirt, 3mls of nutes is looking like plenty based on my tap water.
> 
> Calmag should be a decent sub for magpro given RO water. I don't use RO water and use 1ml/gallon of magpro in my hydro res. For the record, I think 1.5-2 EC is plenty for a lot of plants. Hopefully yours are doing ok at 2.3.


hey thanks for your reply. yeah, maybe 2.3 is a little high. so far so good though. the slightest tip burn. both strains seem to be able to function well right about there. ill back it off a bit though with the new food. still thinking 1/2 and 1/2 bloom/veg to start or 1/3 to 3/4. oh yeah and just curious, i think you mentioned it, you feed, feed, water? ive been just feeding and flushing once a month but not sure if thats the wrong way to go. been getting a pretty good ph drop by that time. thanks for your time.


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## homebrewer (Nov 14, 2010)

sharl said:


> hey thanks for your reply. yeah, maybe 2.3 is a little high. so far so good though. the slightest tip burn. both strains seem to be able to function well right about there. ill back it off a bit though with the new food. still thinking 1/2 and 1/2 bloom/veg to start or 1/3 to 3/4. oh yeah and just curious, i think you mentioned it, you feed, feed, water? ive been just feeding and flushing once a month but not sure if thats the wrong way to go. been getting a pretty good ph drop by that time. thanks for your time.


I start with about 1/2 bloom and 1/2 grow, but later in flower I scale back the grow formula. That's what I've been doing with the dirt plant and the hydro girls. Seems to be working fine until I iron out the kinks. 

For dirt, I feed, feed, water, normally but when talking to DG on the phone, they said just feed at every watering. So that's what I've been doing but I think a flush every once and a while is beneficial. Just do your best to read your plants and flush when they need it or feed when they look hungry. You may get an ugly leaf here and there but that's no biggie.


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## sharl (Nov 14, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> I start with about 1/2 bloom and 1/2 grow, but later in flower I scale back the grow formula. That's what I've been doing with the dirt plant and the hydro girls. Seems to be working fine until I iron out the kinks.
> 
> For dirt, I feed, feed, water, normally but when talking to DG on the phone, they said just feed at every watering. So that's what I've been doing but I think a flush every once and a while is beneficial. Just do your best to read your plants and flush when they need it or feed when they look hungry. You may get an ugly leaf here and there but that's no biggie.


thanks. yeah, im working hard on the reading part. thats the most difficult part of all im finding. too much nutes? too little? hard for me to tell, but getting better.thanks for your help. so 1.5 and 1.5 about huh?


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## bob stine (Nov 17, 2010)

do you think you even need the grow formula (dyna-gro) if your using cal-mg? i'm just saying since the calcium nitrate gives 2% nitrogen is all i know one thing pro-tek for potassium is a must i'd say ...i always though dyna-gro lacked it thanks for any reply


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## BrandonT (Nov 19, 2010)

how often do you flush your plants? and what do you use to do so ?


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## homebrewer (Nov 22, 2010)

bob stine said:


> do you think you even need the grow formula (dyna-gro) if your using cal-mg? i'm just saying since the calcium nitrate gives 2% nitrogen is all i know one thing pro-tek for potassium is a must i'd say ...i always though dyna-gro lacked it thanks for any reply


 The DG bloom formula doesn't supply my girls enough nitrogen early in flowering so IMO, the grow formula is a must. I would personally never sub calmag for a grow formula, they're different formulas and serve different purposes. 





> how often do you flush your plants? and what do you use to do so ?


I flush every 3 weeks. It's something I've been experimenting with. I'm not flushing for flavor or to clear the plant of food or whatever people think flushing does, I do it to leach salts from my rockwool and roots so they're both in good condition to receive food. I use clearex.


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## withoutAchance (Nov 23, 2010)

best thread on any nnon porn forum to date good good good i just hate that avatar hope it not u.


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## OGPanda (Nov 23, 2010)

What up Homebrewer? You got another journal up yet?


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## homebrewer (Nov 24, 2010)

OGPanda said:


> What up Homebrewer? You got another journal up yet?


 I haven't really had time. Maybe I'll do one next month with some AK47 grown with DynaGro and some beneficials. I'm testing some _Great White_ right now so if this turns out well, I'll start a journal up to document the benefits. I'll post something on here when I do. Thanks for your interest.


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## RastaMonsta (Nov 24, 2010)

did the ak's in soil finish?


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## homebrewer (Nov 24, 2010)

RastaMonsta said:


> did the ak's in soil finish?


 Not yet, should be done in about 1 week or so. The AK47 tray with DG nutes and floralicious plus finished and I have some final yield numbers, I'm just waiting for a short cure and then I'll be able to put together some smoke reports. My final yield was only 14.2 ounces, but that's almost 2 more ounces than I've ever yielded off that strain. The AK47 is a newer strain for me as I've only done a few rounds with it. I don't know it as well as Dumpster so I'm not sure how indicative the yields are. The strain seems to really benefit from some training and some lower branch pruning so were the better yields from the nutes or the trimming? I can't say for sure. What I do know is that the yields again were every bit as good as GH and the smoke report should provide some more insight into the contribution of the nutrients.


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## Imaulle (Nov 25, 2010)

I gave my babies one feeding of great white and the results are amazing.. the plants doubled in size in a few days over a few plants that I did not feed it to. 

great white + dyna-gro ftw!!


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## Dahighone (Nov 27, 2010)

Just put dyno flower into 1 of my 3 dwc buckets... The runt of the 3 even. I didnt read this thread till after I got back from the hydro store lol.. would have purchased the grow and protek also. Anyways tomorow is day 30 hope its not too late for flowering nutes. Ive been using a 14-14-14 mix until about 4 days ago I have been flushing them since. I dont change the water in my non circulated dwc unless I get algae... is this a bad thing? should I switch it out 1 time a week? I see your not using dwc but you know what your talking about on every other lvl it seems. Thanks in advance


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## homebrewer (Nov 27, 2010)

Dahighone said:


> Just put dyno flower into 1 of my 3 dwc buckets... The runt of the 3 even. I didnt read this thread till after I got back from the hydro store lol.. would have purchased the grow and protek also. Anyways tomorow is day 30 hope its not too late for flowering nutes. Ive been using a 14-14-14 mix until about 4 days ago I have been flushing them since. I dont change the water in my non circulated dwc unless I get algae... is this a bad thing? should I switch it out 1 time a week? I see your not using dwc but you know what your talking about on every other lvl it seems. Thanks in advance


 DG makes a 7-7-7 which I think could be used from seed to harvest. You may not be getting your best yields off that and running really green plants at the end, but if you used that for the first 30 days and used bloom (3-12-6) for the last 30, you'd be in great shape. Personally, I run 1ml of grow and 6mls of bloom for weeks 5 and 6, then switch to bloom only for roughly the last 2-3 weeks. The 3-12-6 will slowly turn your plants light-green with some yellow leaves here and there and initiate a slightly higher rate of leaf-drop which isn't necessarily a bad thing during the last few weeks. I'm still tweaking my own schedule but this is where I'm at thus far.

In regards to not switching out water, I think some people get away with doing that with good results. Personally, I'd change the water with fresh nutes once per week. You can add back nutes each week using a TDS meter to gauge how much food you should add back, but you're not starting with a clean slate which I think could get a little confusing as the nutritional needs of the plant change throughout flower. Switching out water and food once per week is worth the effort in my opinion. Then again, you're talking about DWC which is a different animal to manage than flood and drain.


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## venacular (Dec 1, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> DG makes a 7-7-7 which I think could be used from seed to harvest. You may not be getting your best yields off that and running really green plants at the end, but if you used that for the first 30 days and used bloom (3-12-6) for the last 30, you'd be in great shape. Personally, I run 1ml of grow and 6mls of bloom for weeks 5 and 6, then switch to bloom only for roughly the last 2-3 weeks. The 3-12-6 will slowly turn your plants light-green with some yellow leaves here and there and initiate a slightly higher rate of leaf-drop which isn't necessarily a bad thing during the last few weeks. I'm still tweaking my own schedule but this is where I'm at thus far.
> 
> In regards to not switching out water, I think some people get away with doing that with good results. Personally, I'd change the water with fresh nutes once per week. You can add back nutes each week using a TDS meter to gauge how much food you should add back, but you're not starting with a clean slate which I think could get a little confusing as the nutritional needs of the plant change throughout flower. Switching out water and food once per week is worth the effort in my opinion. Then again, you're talking about DWC which is a different animal to manage than flood and drain.



Haha, I read this and started thinking "that's exactly what I am experiencing". I am using 1mil grow and 4mil bloom for weeks 5 and 6. I also feed Beastie Blooms in that same week. When I feed with BB I only add molasses. I alternate the two nutes for weeks 5 and 6. Then by the last 2-3 weeks I am at 5ml bloom.

As far as the DWC, I have 3 in DWC/Drip cross. In grow I let one plants go 3 weeks without a cleaning/drain. There were no adverse affects. The plants growth noticeably slowed but it never went diff. I will be draining/cleaning biweekly early in bloom, then change to weekly near the end.


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## Cali.Grown>408 (Dec 7, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> Here is an update of my AK47 being grown in promix with DG nutes (close to day 30). She's getting 3mls of food per gallon and being watered as needed (every 4 days?). She's on a mix of 1 part grow and 2 parts bloom which is roughly a 1-2-1 NPK ratio. The goal of this is not to yield big, but rather to see if DG can perform in the dirt. So far, so good.


sup bro..ur plants are looking nice and healthy..hey ur feeding this PK plant only 3ml's total every 4days?? is that 3mls all together or 3mls each of the DG nutrients that u got??


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## homebrewer (Dec 7, 2010)

Cali.Grown>408 said:


> sup bro..ur plants are looking nice and healthy..hey ur feeding this PK plant only 3ml's total every 4days?? is that 3mls all together or 3mls each of the DG nutrients that u got??


 3mls total per gallon (1ml of grow and 2mls of bloom). This plant is basically done, I just need to take a few pics, get choppin' and post some yield numbers. Hopefully tomorrow.


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## Cali.Grown>408 (Dec 7, 2010)

nice..so did u follow the directions on the back or do ur own thing??? cant wait to see the pics..u got some nice ass looking buds brotha..thats y im asking u all these lil questions cuz i've been growing for 4years and my buds or plants PERIOD dont look like your's..mine are nice and all but yours are lovely


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## homebrewer (Dec 7, 2010)

Cali.Grown>408 said:


> nice..so did u follow the directions on the back or do ur own thing??? cant wait to see the pics..u got some nice ass looking buds brotha..thats y im asking u all these lil questions cuz i've been growing for 4years and my buds or plants PERIOD dont look like your's..mine are nice and all but yours are lovely


 Between my base water and the potency of the nutes, 3mls of food brings me to about 550ppm (442 scale). I use promix which has no food in it and generally I'll feed, feed, flush when I'm dealing with my ladies in the dirt. I'll make sure to get a picture up today.


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## homebrewer (Dec 8, 2010)

Here is my AK47 girl grown with DG grow and bloom only. For the first 30 days, she was given 1ml of grow and 2mls of bloom per gallon and watered about every 4 days. After day 30, she got 3mls of bloom per gallon with the 2/3rds grow/bloom mix here and there when she started to lose her green color. The DG bloom formula alone doesn&#8217;t supply enough nitrogen to flowering plants but when mixed with the grow, the combination is perfect. She was one of nine plants under a 600 and my average yield is about 2 ounces from each plant. I&#8217;ll have some final numbers and a smoke report in ten days or so. I should also add that the medium was Promix which is a peat-based medium with perlite, vermiculite and no plant food. If using a soil with food in it, the nutes should be cut back until the plants have used up what is already in the soil.

Based on the results thus far, I'm very pleased with how DG performed in the dirt. This plant was mind-numbingly easy to grow and I think that was the hardest part to get around. How can this be so easy? I premixed my 2/3rds bloom/grow mix so about twice per week, I'd add my 3mls to a gallon and water with a half gallon. That's literally all I did and when calculating the amount of fertilizer that I used to grow it, *this plant cost 49 cents to grow* (42 mls of total fertilizer used in flower).

Smoke report and yield numbers coming soon! 

Cheers.


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## Illumination (Dec 8, 2010)

Yes it works wonderfully in dirt as well...thank you so much HB....you are a valued pillar of our community

Beautiful plants once again there my friend

Namaste'


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## drforensicpsychologist (Dec 8, 2010)

You should have compared DG and AN instead. I bet you a stack you would have had a better yield. Sorry. Had to put it in! 

Have you experimented with AN already and that's why you don't like it? Just wondering. I'm interested in DG suddenly.


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## Illumination (Dec 8, 2010)

drforensicpsychologist said:


> You should have compared DG and AN instead. I bet you a stack you would have had a better yield. Sorry. Had to put it in!
> 
> Have you experimented with AN already and that's why you don't like it? Just wondering. I'm interested in DG suddenly.


Most probably because AN is overpriced garbage....

And I seriously doubt it would have increased yield....would bet money it would decrease it as DG is much HIGHER QUALITY as well elementally complimental in its sources and chemistry...Hence it is ONE bottle...not twenty....IMHHO

Namaste'


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## homebrewer (Dec 8, 2010)

drforensicpsychologist said:


> You should have compared DG and AN instead. I bet you a stack you would have had a better yield. Sorry. Had to put it in!
> 
> Have you experimented with AN already and that's why you don't like it? Just wondering. I'm interested in DG suddenly.


 There are two kinds of people who use AN; beginners and people who don't know any better. That being said, I am interested in testing conni, not because I think it will perform well, but because I want to expose AN for what they are. The problem with a test like that is that people will bitch that I'm not using all 5 additives that go along with conni. The test would be base vs. base but again, there would be no way to make everyone happy.


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## Illumination (Dec 8, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> There are two kinds of people who use AN; beginners and people who don't know any better. That being said, I am interested in testing conni, not because I think it will perform well, but because I want to expose AN for what they are. The problem with a test like that is that people will bitch that I'm not using all 5 additives that go along with conni. The test would be base vs. base but again, there would be no way to make everyone happy.


You know HB I believe that DG would prevail even if you used all 5 along with the conni....other than the cost it surley would hush up the vomit holes once and for all

I would even donate to the cause a few $$$

A thought

Namaste'


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## bigsourD (Dec 8, 2010)

Dyna Grow > AN no question.

edit: oh and ak47 looks nice HB


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## drforensicpsychologist (Dec 8, 2010)

Well my first grow is with AN and my results look better than yours. So your DG>AN argument sounds sketchy.

When I run out of AN I'll try it myself. The all-in-one bottle is one reason why I'm skeptical by the way. As a chemist I know separating chemicals has a stronger effect in general.


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## homebrewer (Dec 8, 2010)

drforensicpsychologist said:


> Well my first grow is with AN and my results look better than yours. So your DG>AN argument sounds sketchy.
> 
> When I run out of AN I'll try it myself. The all-in-one bottle is one reason why I'm skeptical by the way. As a chemist I know separating chemicals has a stronger effect in general.


 Study plant nutrition, NPK ratios, micro and macro nutrient excesses and deficiencies, along what plants _actually_ need and use, only then will you start to be able to cut through the BS. If you've got something to prove, start a journal.


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## drforensicpsychologist (Dec 8, 2010)

Journal? Too much time in the garden, work, and grad school to do that too! 

No, really I am very new to growing so I will listen to what anybody has to say. So DG uses only what it needs to and seemingly much cheaper?


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## homebrewer (Dec 8, 2010)

drforensicpsychologist said:


> So DG uses only what it needs to and seemingly much cheaper?


 _Other _brands use only what they need to, DG supplies _all_ 16 essential elements that plants need to grow and they're supplied in good quantities and ratios. They've been around for 25 years and sell their products in sizes up to 15 and 55 gallons. What does that say? It's professional grade used by commercial facilities. The formulas are pretty potent too so it doesn't take a lot of fertilizer to get to the ppm that your strain enjoys, which makes DG very affordable. Again, if you're new at this, study the things in my previous post, otherwise I'm just another person with an opinion.


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## Illumination (Dec 8, 2010)

drforensicpsychologist said:


> Well my first grow is with AN and my results look better than yours. So your DG>AN argument sounds sketchy.
> 
> When I run out of AN I'll try it myself. The all-in-one bottle is one reason why I'm skeptical by the way. As a chemist I know separating chemicals has a stronger effect in general.


Then as a chemist you should immediately realize that the problem there is their sources (AN) are cheap and inferior which are antogonistic to each other... the better formulated nutes (DG) are a complimentery elemental emulsion which assist each other in solution as is relative to ph for uptake as well as little residuals as they do not precipitate...this is accomplished from using quality sources...so in the school of thought of chemistry it would illustrate superior engineering to produce a product that works awesomely contained in one bottle verses seperating them into 20 bottles...AN is in the money game so shave off both ends...antagonistic elements which are very inexpensive so the need for seperation and 20 bottles...and more money...all about the money not the plants... AN puts it in twenty bottles because they have to...and they are glad they have to because they are in the money business not the plant growing business....Brilliant business and marketing skills....little to no chemistry or botany skills

BS -Chemistry - Tulane University
BS -Computer Science - USL
BA -Business Administration - Loyola

Namaste'


----------



## shnkrmn (Dec 8, 2010)

a whiff of troll in the air, what?


----------



## Illumination (Dec 8, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> _Other _brands use only what they need to, DG supplies _all_ 16 essential elements that plants need to grow and they're supplied in good quantities and ratios. They've been around for 25 years and sell their products in sizes up to 15 and 55 gallons. What does that say? It's professional grade used by commercial facilities. The formulas are pretty potent too so it doesn't take a lot of fertilizer to get to the ppm that your strain enjoys, which makes DG very affordable. Again, if you're new at this, study the things in my previous post, otherwise I'm just another person with an opinion.


 
Again great job and sorry about jumping in headfirst in your thread but I couldn't help it

Namaste'


----------



## homebrewer (Dec 8, 2010)

Illumination said:


> Again great job and sorry about jumping in headfirst in your thread but I couldn't help it
> 
> Namaste'


 It's all relevant. If people want to learn about the stuff we were taught in Plant Bio 101, then it good to see others that know their shiz and want to educate. Unfortunately, most get their 'education' from glossy ads and websites that want to sell you something when what we should all be doing is reading text books on botany and horticulture. If cannabis growers did that, there'd be a lot of nutrient companies going out of business .


----------



## drforensicpsychologist (Dec 8, 2010)

I am going to try it with one of my next plants then! Always good to have better bud and of course to save money!


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## drforensicpsychologist (Dec 8, 2010)

But every nutrient challenge that has been done that I've seen AN is the winner. If anyone has a link to another with different results let me know.


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## Illumination (Dec 8, 2010)

drforensicpsychologist said:


> But every nutrient challenge that has been done that I've seen AN is the winner. If anyone has a link to another with different results let me know.


Duh...because they are sponsored (paid for) by AN so go figure the results

Look HB loved General Hydroponics and started on this thinking he was gonna show up DG...well he did a double win and got better results on his FIRST USE OF DG when he was thinking he was going to show how it is inferior...so now he saves money, work (stable ph of DG, due to chemical engineering and elemental superiority) and has as good if not better results

Are you just so blinded by the hype that you do not want the truth? What is the benefit of AN?

Namaste'


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## drforensicpsychologist (Dec 8, 2010)

I have seen many competitions done by growers, not AN, where AN wins. Believe me I am more interested than arguing. I would love to pay less for the same performance and less time.


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## Illumination (Dec 8, 2010)

drforensicpsychologist said:


> I have seen many competitions done by growers, not AN, where AN wins. Believe me I am more interested than arguing. I would love to pay less for the same performance and less time.


then try it on clones do a 1/2 plants DG and 1/2 plants AN in the same room and you will see for yourself... if you indeed are a chemist then what I shared with you earlier should have your thinking in the correct avenue to see the flaw in the AN... ??

Namaste'


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## drforensicpsychologist (Dec 8, 2010)

I have not looked up the antagonistic properties of AN yet. But I am a chemist for profit if you know what I mean. Therefore I do not have the degree as you. In fact my BS and MA is in a medical field, so I am all ears.

When I get the money I will test DG on one plant for bloom. A quart of DG bloom is under $20!


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## homebrewer (Dec 8, 2010)

drforensicpsychologist said:


> When I get the money I will test DG on one plant for bloom. A quart of DG bloom is under $20!


 I'd recommend the 7-9-5 grow formula as well because when used with the bloom, each can be tweaked throughout the grow to supply the plant with the correct NPK ratio that the plant needs.


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## Illumination (Dec 8, 2010)

And I prefer Foliage pro and Magpro combination in flower for the same npk ratio diversity plus the added mag and sulfur...also use the silica Protekt throught the grow...just those 3 for the whole grow

My 2 cents

Namaste'


----------



## homebrewer (Dec 8, 2010)

Illumination said:


> And I prefer Foliage pro and Magpro combination in flower for the same npk ratio diversity plus the added mag and sulfur...also use the silica Protekt throught the grow...just those 3 for the whole grow
> 
> My 2 cents
> 
> Namaste'


 So what does a feeding look like as far as mls/gallon go given your foliage pro and magpro?


----------



## bigsourD (Dec 8, 2010)

I always used DG in hydro and been pretty happy with it. Thought i'd try it out in soil along with you HB and KIND OF borrowed your technique- 50/50 Grow and Bloom until week 6, then I start to wean it down. Been pretty happy thus far


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## Dropastone (Dec 8, 2010)

Hell yeah, those are purdy. Great job man.


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## Illumination (Dec 8, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> So what does a feeding look like as far as mls/gallon go given your foliage pro and magpro?


in dirt as is all I do, 2 ml Foliage 1 Magpro gradually to 1.5 ml foliage 2.5 magpro with the protekt @ 3ml beginning to 4 ml towards end of flower...give or take a lil here an there according to what I see

Namaste'


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## Pure (Dec 9, 2010)

Sup dudes,

I'm on the band wagon!! I've heard enough. I'm ordering my DG tomorrow! First I need to supplement and finish this push. So i need an equivalent to Overdrive. OR can I simply do a complete res Change out and start with DG? It may be risky to change nutes in the middle of flowering... Hmmmm Here r 4 shots of where I am in the push,

First 2 are from my unburned or unaffected girl,

These are from the totally damaged baby. Again i have no idea what really happened to her but she stopped growing completely and I went through hell and high water just to nurture her back to where she is now.
 I will get practically nothing from her in terms of weight but I'm sure the smoke will be fucking dynamite..

so as you can see I'm pretty far along. I'm jumping off of the An train because of this push. It may have been my fault, maybe not. But using An i got myself in a situation and had not fucking Idea of how to get out. Do i stop A, B or fucking C or all of them. So now i'm gonna KISS it! Keep it Simple Shit! I figure if I can skate by with only 3 bottles of ferts for the entire grow, I'll try it. I'm currently using
Expert Level Advanced Nutrients. 

Again..; I'm not saying AN sucks It was probably my high ass fucking up. But when I was no longer high I still had no idea of how to back out! And No one could advise me so fuck that!

So dudes, should I bite the bullet and go buy my overdrive to finish my push or complete res swap for DG bloom cycle nutes???


All in all An wasn't that bad. At least the Perfect pH stuff worked.  (at 6.0 in hydro - but stable none the less)

Pure...


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## streets (Dec 9, 2010)

nice grow, im stoked to see the final results!!!


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## DaveCoulier (Dec 10, 2010)

Pure said:


> Sup dudes,
> 
> I'm on the band wagon!! I've heard enough. I'm ordering my DG tomorrow! First I need to supplement and finish this push. So i need an equivalent to Overdrive. OR can I simply do a complete res Change out and start with DG? It may be risky to change nutes in the middle of flowering... Hmmmm Here r 4 shots of where I am in the push,
> 
> ...


I would just make the jump to DG. AN's product line is designed to empty your wallet, and bank account. And like you said, they have so many products, when things go wrong with your plants, its even more difficult to learn where the problem originated. 

I just started to use some Dyna-Gro Foliage Pro after my plants were on the skids and practically dieing, and now they are slowly returning to normal and I am seeing new growth. I still have awhile before they recover completely, but Im happy to be using Dyna-Gro now. Ill still continue to use organics(but less of it) and supplement with DGFP to cover all bases.


----------



## DaGrapeApe (Dec 11, 2010)

Is the Dyna Gro a pure liquid or does it have 'grit' in it like some of the other nutrient solutions? I'm worried about clogs in my aero sprayers. I'm very impressed from the results here. I use GH's Floranova entire line, when I run out I'll definatly try the Dynagro!


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## homebrewer (Dec 11, 2010)

DaGrapeApe said:


> Is the Dyna Gro a pure liquid or does it have 'grit' in it like some of the other nutrient solutions? I'm worried about clogs in my aero sprayers. I'm very impressed from the results here. I use GH's Floranova entire line, when I run out I'll definatly try the Dynagro!


 DG has little to no salt build up. Out of the 2 lines, DG would be much better suited for aero, IMO.


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## Pure (Dec 11, 2010)

Dude,

i'm looking into ordering the Dg x4 bottles (Bloom, liquid grow, pro-tekt, Mag Pro), but as I'm looking I see that Dyna Gro is promoted in the industry by Orchid growers. It appears to be well known for orchids. Which brings me to my next question are the requirements for Orchids and Mary Jane the same??


Pure...


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## homebrewer (Dec 11, 2010)

Pure said:


> Dude,
> 
> i'm looking into ordering the Dg x4 bottles (Bloom, liquid grow, pro-tekt, Mag Pro), but as I'm looking I see that Dyna Gro is promoted in the industry by Orchid growers. It appears to be well known for orchids. Which brings me to my next question are the requirements for Orchids and Mary Jane the same??
> 
> ...


The essential mineral needs are the same, but your feeding levels will be much lower with orchids as apposed to peppers or tomatoes or cannabis. Keep in mind the classic NPK ratios of 3-1-2 for veg and 1-3-2 for flower and feed your plants what they need, when they need it. I'd even use a 1-1-1 for veg as the nutrient needs are pretty low. In flower, even a 1-2-1 would be fine but you might find that late in flower your plants don't need that much nitrogen. DG offers great NPK ratios and compete plant nutrition. I choose to mix the grow and bloom in flower in different ratios depending on the needs of what I'm growing and it works extremely well. Nevermind that some nutes claim to be 'cannabis specific'. That's a sure fire way to know you're getting ripped off.


----------



## puffntuff (Dec 12, 2010)

i cant rep you homebrewer but amen to getting ripped off to cannabis specific. the neem oil i use is made for fruit bearing trees so fuck cannabis specific shit


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## DaGrapeApe (Dec 12, 2010)

I went out at bought the small bottle of the Dyna Grow Bloom, the local store didn't have the pro-tekt in stock. Forgive my newbieness but what exactly is the pro-tekt for? Why do i need it?


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## homebrewer (Dec 12, 2010)

DaGrapeApe said:


> I went out at bought the small bottle of the Dyna Grow Bloom, the local store didn't have the pro-tekt in stock. Forgive my newbieness but what exactly is the pro-tekt for? Why do i need it?


 ProTekt is a silicon additive which strengthens stems and cell walls. I've noticed that my hydro trays are less susceptible to mites when using Protekt as it seems to add another level of defense against those critters. Silicon also helps the plants deal with heat and drought stress. It's the same price as Silica Blast from Botanicare but has 4 times the amount of silicon. Even if I didn't like the DG nutes, I would still use this product.


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## DaveCoulier (Dec 13, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> ProTekt is a silicon additive which strengthens stems and cell walls. I've noticed that my hydro trays are less susceptible to mites when using Protekt as it seems to add another level of defense against those critters. Silicon also helps the plants deal with heat and drought stress. It's the same price as Silica Blast from Botanicare but has 4 times the amount of silicon. Even if I didn't like the DG nutes, I would still use this product.


Have you noticed a extra girth in the trunks and branches? I had been using only Azomite to supply silicon, and it works great at 2.5 tbls/gallon. Its lead to the thickest trunks and branches of any plants I have ever grown. Ive started to use Pro-tekt as well now, and hoping to see even greater results.


----------



## homebrewer (Dec 14, 2010)

DaveCoulier said:


> Have you noticed a extra girth in the trunks and branches? I had been using only Azomite to supply silicon, and it works great at 2.5 tbls/gallon. Its lead to the thickest trunks and branches of any plants I have ever grown. Ive started to use Pro-tekt as well now, and hoping to see even greater results.


 I've been using Protekt for several months now (just finished my first gallon) so it's hard to rememeber how my branches were before I started using it. I know the plants are more sturdy late in flower and I don't get quite as much branch snapping under the weight of the buds, but it still happens a little. The spider mite resistence has greatly improved and that's why I really like this silicon product.


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## shnkrmn (Dec 14, 2010)

I agree about the mite resistance. The plants I cut in late August had no sign of mites (I thought) except one plant had a small colony confined to a single node on the main trunk. I never saw the leaf damage (minor) until I cut the tops down. There were very few of them, and very few eggs or juveniles. They were just kind of hunkering down trying to survive instead of spreading out and taking over. I used no chemicals on that run.

Yes, the plants get sturdier too.


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## DaGrapeApe (Dec 14, 2010)

Had to order the pro tekt from my friends store. Grabbed one of my larger trainwreck clones and added the bloom formula straight and a little floralicious plus. PH went right to 5.8 with my tapwater and NO ph down, badass. Hoping for some good results


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## homebrewer (Dec 15, 2010)

The product is good and dry and I was able to get some final yield numbers this morning. The AK47 that was grown with less than 50 cents worth of DynaGro fertilizer yielded 2.39 ounces or 67 grams. This was one of nine plants under a 600watt hortilux hps and again, this yield on my first run exceeds my average by about 15% (2 ounce average per plant when running 9 plants). I'd be happy to post a smoke report but based on my previous runs with DG in my hydro trays, it's safe to say the final product is going to be every bit as good as the product grown with Botanicare pure blend. I've just run out of Botanicare bloom formula and will not purchasing more. DG is just too easy and too cheap to not use in the dirt. 


*Finished plant*:



*Finished product*:


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## Illumination (Dec 15, 2010)

Yes DG is awesome in dirt as well....so very easy isn't it? And forgiving as well

Great job my friend....looks awesome as always

Thanx for the knowledge

Namaste'


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## bob stine (Dec 15, 2010)

homebrewer thanks for all this man....i'm using dyna-gro grow bloom some cal-mg(2% kind) and am no using pro-tek based on what you've said....i really like the protekt just because of the fact you'll never need ph-up again if everything is mixed right...currently i'm using 1 1/2 TBS protekt--1 TBS cal-mg---1TBS grow---1 TBS of bloom...it ph's perfect with this regime (i use R/o water) my municipal has 330 ppm from the go so...but anyways thanks man i might start using the floralicious plus i just dont like how GH doesnt really reveal whats totally in it...ps i only use dyna-gro bloom + cal-mg for tomatoes for years works great


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## bob stine (Dec 15, 2010)

DOH! forgot to say that regime is in a 2 gallon bucket sorry guys what an ass i can be sometimes sorry again


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## BrandonT (Dec 20, 2010)

ill have to say homebrewer thats some unreal looking buds, im thinking on starting six more plants in SOIL! except one question; im ordering some fox farm soil and i already have all these nutrients from my hydroponics

flora plus
GH bloom
GH grow
GH micro
botanicare sweet
flora blend

im wondering if i can also use these or what i should use for a soil grow; or do you reccomend buying a whole new line of nutes just for soil
thankss


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## frogster (Dec 20, 2010)

Thx Homebrew... Im on my first grow (30pot ebb&gr)and have just been using Floranova bloom (lucas) only,,, But I like some of the advantages you listed (ph stability, pest protection etc)with the dyna products. My local hydro shop guy choked when I mentioned DG, but I believe they have an assortment of newer formulas that he wasn't familiar with. Even after reading your post several times I am trying to get a grasp on your specific product and schedule times and amounts for each product (hydro).. But as you said, each strain is a little different. I will keep reading this over and over till I get it. Please check on my journal and make comments. Much appreciated, Frogster


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## homebrewer (Dec 20, 2010)

frogster said:


> Thx Homebrew... Im on my first grow (30pot ebb&gr)and have just been using Floranova bloom (lucas) only,,, But I like some of the advantages you listed (ph stability, pest protection etc)with the dyna products. My local hydro shop guy choked when I mentioned DG, but I believe they have an assortment of newer formulas that he wasn't familiar with. Even after reading your post several times I am trying to get a grasp on your specific product and schedule times and amounts for each product (hydro).. But as you said, each strain is a little different. I will keep reading this over and over till I get it. Please check on my journal and make comments. Much appreciated, Frogster


The products I used are listed in post #1 of this thread and I later added grow (7-9-5). I feed at 1.5-2 EC depending on strain and mix the grow and bloom in flower. I use 5mls of protekt and 1ml of magpro per gallon, then with the remaining ppms, I split between the grow and the bloom. At the most I'll go 50/50 but at mid and late stages of flower, the plants don't need that much N so I scale back the grow formula. My grow store guys were surprised when I asked them to order gallons of all of these products, but that just goes to show that your grow store employees are as dumb as mine .


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## transcendence (Dec 21, 2010)

Thank you for the great, great documentation with this grow! fantastic! Respect w/ a Rep+ Thanks Dude>>>>>>>>>>>>\w/ Up The Iron's


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## DaGrapeApe (Dec 30, 2010)

Started Feeding my plants in my grow some Dynagrow bloom. I started at the beginning of week 4. I've grown clones of this plant out two other times. I noticed a HUGE increase in bud size and resin production. There was no way I would have seen that using the Floranova Bloom + KoolBloom + Floralicious Plus that I'd used on the previous attempts. I was skeptical and just from what I saw on my last grow vs this one I'm VERY impressed.


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## frogster (Dec 30, 2010)

I want to switch to dynagrow for my bloom, Im using gh for my veg.. Guy at hydro store said stick with one company as switching may change up the type of chems .. and the plants would prob. freak out... Opinions on this theory? As of now I was planning on using the floranova bloom,,,


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## DaGrapeApe (Dec 30, 2010)

I don't think that theory holds much water. I'm no professional, but I'd think that plants would basically need some essential nutrients and I don't think they'd give a damn as to where they're coming from. As long as they're getting them, they're happy.


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## bassman999 (Dec 31, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> This isn&#8217;t literally a GH/DynaGro face off, but it _is_ a test to see if a complete nutrient line from DynaGro can compete with the results I get from my GH products. I&#8217;ll be using three DynaGro products; their Bloom formula (3-12-6), Mag-pro (2-15-4) and Pro-Tekt (0-0-3) and using them in the ratios suggested in their feeding schedule. Currently I use 7 different products from GH when my plants are in flower and I really like the idea of simplifying the whole process. While those seven GH products perform extremely well and are reasonably priced ($70/grow), DynaGro would be half the price and half the bottles. I&#8217;ll be drawing a lot of comparisons between GH and DynaGro throughout this grow in regards to pH stability, salt build up, plant performance, plant health, etc.
> 
> I&#8217;ll be growing a strain that is legendary back in Ohio called Dumpster (for more info on Dumpster: http://en.seedfinder.eu/strain-info/Dumpster/Clone_Only_Strains/) which I&#8217;ve grown dozens of times with my GH line. I have lots of photos and detailed notes from previous grows, these will be the basis for a lot of my comparisons.
> 
> ...



I wanted to know how long did you veg them? Also I cant believe you fit all that into a 2'x3' tray, and I love the string to hold them up!!


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## DaGrapeApe (Dec 31, 2010)

If anyone is interested, check out my grow journal. I switched to Dyna Grow Bloom and Grow Formulas. Nice difference.


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## burrr (Jan 23, 2011)

DaveCoulier said:


> Have you noticed a extra girth in the trunks and branches? I had been using only Azomite to supply silicon, and it works great at 2.5 tbls/gallon. Its lead to the thickest trunks and branches of any plants I have ever grown. Ive started to use Pro-tekt as well now, and hoping to see even greater results.



Check out this newly rooted clone, she's been getting 2.5 mls of protect per gal


I wonder if the silica was a significant factor in homebrewers increased yield while using dynagro.
I don't believe that anything in your GH nutes supplied silica, but they probably had everything else that the dyna grow had.


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## fletchman (Jan 26, 2011)

What PH are you guys runnin the Dyna-gro line in (Pro-mix/Sunshine mix)?

Thanks,


----------



## homebrewer (Jan 26, 2011)

fletchman said:


> What PH are you guys runnin the Dyna-gro line in (Pro-mix/Sunshine mix)?
> 
> Thanks,


 You should shoot for a pH of 6-7 in the dirt. Protekt in the dirt acts as a nice pH balancer and I usually use equal parts of protekt and bloom/grow when mixing up my gallons.


----------



## fletchman (Jan 27, 2011)

homebrewer said:


> You should shoot for a pH of 6-7 in the dirt. Protekt in the dirt acts as a nice pH balancer and I usually use equal parts of protekt and bloom/grow when mixing up my gallons.


 
Thanks, I just bought the Dyna-gro nute line, gonna give it a run.

Im using RO water, would I need any Cal-mag plus, or does Dyna have enough micro's? Im really wanting to get rid of Cal-mag, I dont like it, but it was a must with that weak ass Fox farm gig.

Also what benes and carbs you liking nowadays with Dyna? Im looking for an easy "sure thing" schedule I can rely on.

Thanks,


----------



## homebrewer (Jan 27, 2011)

fletchman said:


> Thanks, I just bought the Dyna-gro nute line, gonna give it a run.
> 
> Im using RO water, would I need any Cal-mag plus, or does Dyna have enough micro's? Im really wanting to get rid of Cal-mag, I dont like it, but it was a must with that weak ass Fox farm gig.
> 
> ...


For hydro, I'd use MagPro if you were using RO water, but in dirt it's not necessary. The Grow/bloom combo plus Protekt will do an excellent job. 



> Also what benes and carbs you liking nowadays with Dyna? Im looking for an easy "sure thing" schedule I can rely on.


Don't worry about either of those two items. On your first run with DG, just concentrate on keeping your plants healthy. What kind of soil are you using? I use Sunshine mix #4 and have premixed my bloom and grow nutes (1 part grow and 3 parts bloom) in a bottle to make feeding days easier. Since I now use RO water, I feed with about 5mls of protekt and 4mls of grow/bloom per gallon during flower. That's all you need. In veg, it's more like 3 mls of protekt and 1.5mls of Grow.


----------



## fletchman (Jan 27, 2011)

homebrewer said:


> For hydro, I'd use MagPro if you were using RO water, but in dirt it's not necessary. The Grow/bloom combo plus Protekt will do an excellent job.
> 
> Don't worry about either of those two items. On your first run with DG, just concentrate on keeping your plants healthy. What kind of soil are you using? I use Sunshine mix #4 and have premixed my bloom and grow nutes (1 part grow and 3 parts bloom) in a bottle to make feeding days easier. Since I now use RO water, I feed with about 5mls of protekt and 4mls of grow/bloom per gallon during flower. That's all you need. In veg, it's more like 3 mls of protekt and 1.5mls of Grow.


 
Im runnin Sunshine #4 also, wow that is some light feeding, would be great to have that little money in nutes with great results!!! What EC is 3ml protekt 1.5 ml. grow? I'll have to try it!! 

How bout a little Mag-pro in flower, I thought it was a booster?


----------



## homebrewer (Jan 27, 2011)

fletchman said:


> Im runnin Sunshine #4 also, wow that is some light feeding, would be great to have that little money in nutes with great results!!! What EC is 3ml protekt 1.5 ml. grow? I'll have to try it!!


 That's about .7-.8 EC for flower and .3 EC for veg.



> How bout a little Mag-pro in flower, I thought it was a booster?


Go for it if you want but you'll only need about 1/2 mls of it per gallon and make sure your EC stays the same. It's too much work IMO to add it to my dirt plants, so I don't.


----------



## fletchman (Jan 27, 2011)

homebrewer said:


> That's about .7-.8 EC for flower and .3 EC for veg.
> 
> Go for it if you want but you'll only need about 1/2 mls of it per gallon and make sure your EC stays the same. It's too much work IMO to add it to my dirt plants, so I don't.


With such low EC's do you feed every watering then? Wow I thought the 1.2 EC I like, was low, thanks for the heads up.

I was looking at this chart,
http://www.4hydroponics.com/manuals/dynagro.pdf


----------



## homebrewer (Jan 27, 2011)

fletchman said:


> With such low EC's do you feed every watering then? Wow I thought the 1.2 EC I like, was low, thanks for the heads up.
> 
> I was looking at this chart,
> http://www.4hydroponics.com/manuals/dynagro.pdf


 Well that chart is for hydro. In dirt, I usually feed, feed, water, but that depends on how my plants look. You'll really have to tailor it to your stains and environment.


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## MediMary (Feb 2, 2011)

homebrewer I Love comparison grows, great thread !!
+rep
a real grower doing real tests, its like christmas


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## OGPanda (Feb 2, 2011)

for DG in the soil, did you mix the nutes according to the recommended usage amount?


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## homebrewer (Feb 2, 2011)

OGPanda said:


> for DG in the soil, did you mix the nutes according to the recommended usage amount?


 Nope, I just fed at about 500ppm which included my tap water (442 scale).


----------



## mrduke (Feb 2, 2011)

hey homeb what are your thoughts on pro-tect do you really think its needed? have you done a comperison w, w/o


----------



## homebrewer (Feb 2, 2011)

mrduke said:


> hey homeb what are your thoughts on pro-tect do you really think its needed?


 It's not 'needed' like base nutes are 'needed', but it certainly helps.



> have you done a comperison w, w/o


Yes, my comparison w/o has been for the last 10 years


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## brownbearclan (Feb 3, 2011)

Just read your whole thread (again) and just wanted to say great job man. I've been planning on using Dyna-Gro when I make the switch to hydro next month (come on tax return!) and this definitely confirms my faith in a product I've never actually used yet. 

Had a couple random questions for ya, in your hydro setup are those 4" or 6" rockwool cubes? Also did you put some sort of goo around the bottom of the stems or did they just grow like that? Thanks a bunch man, epic thread! =)


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## homebrewer (Feb 3, 2011)

brownbearclan said:


> Had a couple random questions for ya, in your hydro setup are those 4" or 6" rockwool cubes? Also did you put some sort of goo around the bottom of the stems or did they just grow like that? Thanks a bunch man, epic thread! =)


 Those are 6" cubes and the stems just grew that way. If you need more convincing about DG nutes, check out my newest journal: *Testing Beneficial Bacteria in Ebb and Flow (AK47 with Great White) *where i'm also using DG nutes.


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## DaGrapeApe (Feb 3, 2011)

So, about mites. one Trainwreck I had vegging forever with no pro-tekt, everything else I've been using pro-tekt on for a little over a month. The TW had spider mites on it, quite a lot. Nothing else in my grow has, yet. Watching like a hawk to make sure I eliminated them all.


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## homebrewer (Feb 3, 2011)

DaGrapeApe said:


> So, about mites. one Trainwreck I had vegging forever with no pro-tekt, everything else I've been using pro-tekt on for a little over a month. The TW had spider mites on it, quite a lot. Nothing else in my grow has, yet. Watching like a hawk to make sure I eliminated them all.


 I have mites and probably always will. Protekt for me is something that makes it harder for the mites to get established. Don't get me wrong, I still do find some mites here and there on plants that are getting Protekt, but the mites will take hold of plants that aren't getting Protekt before I find them on plants that do get it. It's also been a lot easier to control the mites (ie, I bomb and spray less frequently) now that nearly all my plants are now getting this product.


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## medicine21 (Feb 9, 2011)

Gotten rid of mites with Azamax on two separate occasions when they came with clones. Dillute with water in tall bucket and dipped each plant inside. You can also spray, just make sure to get under the leafs well. Do it every 3 days three times (to kill em once they hatch from eggs) and I will personally come down and stomp any mite if by fluke they are still kicking around in your garden.

Expensive product but guaranteed no more mites during grow and EVER for you if you don't keep bringing them in.

...and fantastic thread BTW. +rep


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## bassman999 (Feb 9, 2011)

I HATE mites!!!


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## dimyself (Feb 17, 2011)

Hi I'm about to start 1st grow and after reading this, decided on DG nutes. Does DG work well in soil also? My current plan was promix bx with perlite and maybe worm castings and DG nutes. Is this sufficient?? What else should I amend to soil? This will be indoor closet grow under 400w cmh and just tap water.

Sorry not trying to hijack thread! Just curious about DG in soil and what should be ammended! Thanks


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## homebrewer (Feb 17, 2011)

dimyself said:


> Hi I'm about to start 1st grow and after reading this, decided on DG nutes. Does DG work well in soil also? My current plan was promix bx with perlite and maybe worm castings and DG nutes. Is this sufficient?? What else should I amend to soil? This will be indoor closet grow under 400w cmh and just tap water.
> 
> Sorry not trying to hijack thread! Just curious about DG in soil and what should be ammended! Thanks


 A few pages back, I went over 'DG in the dirt'. Check out the comparison. 

As far as amending the soil with anything, I would avoid it. The whole point in using DG is that it supplies your plants with _all _16 essential elements. No need to add any extra nutrients. I do add 40% vermiculite to my sunshine mix#8.


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## dimyself (Feb 17, 2011)

Awesome thanks man!! Can you tell me what would be a good feed chart/sched in soil? Because I saw your post that they are too strong for their suggested chart. Btw this will be for white widow/ice

Also just to make sure on the products I need/should get: promix hp/bx, perlite, grow, bloom, protek. Do I need mag pro, molasses, neem oil, or superthrive for soil? Thx again... Sorry for the newb questions! Just want to make sure
I get
The right stuff and feedings! +rep


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## homebrewer (Feb 17, 2011)

dimyself said:


> Awesome thanks man!! Can you tell me what would be a good feed chart/sched in soil? Because I saw your post that they are too strong for their suggested chart. Btw this will be for white widow/ice
> 
> Also just to make sure on the products I need/should get: promix hp/bx, perlite, grow, bloom, protek. Do I need mag pro, molasses, neem oil, or superthrive for soil? Thx again... Sorry for the newb questions! Just want to make sure
> I get
> The right stuff and feedings! +rep


 Read the last 10 pages of the journal and I think that will cover all the basic and advanced questions that you may have. Good luck, DG is great stuff.


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## Dropastone (Feb 17, 2011)

IMO if you follow the soil feeding chart, you will have no problems. I've been following it to a tee for the past 3 or 4 months with great results. Since your using tap water you may not need the mag pro but I would suggest picking up the Pro-tekt. In the beginning, start out with only a 1/4 to 1/2 strength with the Dyna Gro and work your way up so you don't burn em up.

Hope this helps you out some.


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## dimyself (Feb 17, 2011)

Dropastone said:


> IMO if you follow the soil feeding chart, you will have no problems. I've been following it to a tee for the past 3 or 4 months with great results. Since your using tap water you may not need the mag pro but I would suggest picking up the Pro-tekt. In the beginning, start out with only a 1/4 to 1/2 strength with the Dyna Gro and work your way up so you don't burn em up.
> 
> Hope this helps you out some.


I did measure my tap's ph today and it was about 7.2.... I will test it again after it sits for 1 day. Won't the ph go down a little when adding grow nutes? Guess I will just test it out


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## bassman999 (Feb 17, 2011)

dimyself said:


> I did measure my tap's ph today and it was about 7.2.... I will test it again after it sits for 1 day. Won't the ph go down a little when adding grow nutes? Guess I will just test it out


 I dont think that tap water will change ph much if at all. It will evaporate chlorine and esp if aerated.


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## Dropastone (Feb 17, 2011)

dimyself said:


> I did measure my tap's ph today and it was about 7.2.... I will test it again after it sits for 1 day. Won't the ph go down a little when adding grow nutes? Guess I will just test it out


Yeah it will definitely go down some when adding the nutes. In hydro you should aim for a pH of 5.8 and in soil you should aim for 6.5. Good luck.

Peace.


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## DaGrapeApe (Feb 18, 2011)

I'm lucky, my tap PH comes out at 7 with no adjustment and a ppm of 90-120. It's been steady like that for a year.


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## dimyself (Feb 18, 2011)

Ph/ppm is a whole new bag of worms for me  I'm going to pop the seeds this weekend. I just have to cut hole in either ceiling or wall for exhaust then I'm ready. Can't wait!! Idk much about ppm. I'll just have to kind of wing it in the beginning...


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## bassman999 (Feb 19, 2011)

DaGrapeApe said:


> I'm lucky, my tap PH comes out at 7 with no adjustment and a ppm of 90-120. It's been steady like that for a year.


 My tap is 7.4-7.5ph and 110-125ppm


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## danneede (Mar 2, 2011)

ph 7 ppm 200 doesnt affect my ph at all


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## maphisto (Mar 2, 2011)

Damn bro good job!! i guess you should throw down a nute schedule for your ebb n' flow and your soil grow. Youv'e got a lot of people listening. I loke how you said A/N is for newbies or people who dont know any better. I am using A/n sensi as a base and im almost done with those bottles and your right well over priced. Iam thinking about g.h. or fox farm. Just have not decided yet.Well thanks for the grow journal youve been helpfull.


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## homebrewer (Mar 3, 2011)

maphisto said:


> Iam thinking about g.h. or fox farm. Just have not decided yet.Well thanks for the grow journal youve been helpfull.


 At the end of this journal I switched my base nutes to dynagro. At that point I still had about 7 gallons of GH nutes left and planned to use it up in the other half of my reservoirs. Time after time now, DG continues to out-yield GH. So much so that I've decided to stop using GH altogether. While I respect GH and other 3-part systems, you can do better.


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## danneede (Mar 3, 2011)

dyna gro beats all other nutes hands down imo and its cheaper. not to mention how a little pro tekt makes ur Ph rock solid. got to love all things dyna gro. ive been using them for about 5 years.


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## danneede (Mar 3, 2011)

Also id like to add i use to have a spidermite problem before i started using pro-tekt. havent seen a single mite since. much better then doctor dooming up ur spot.


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## kingofqueen (Mar 25, 2011)

***Just finished reading the entire thread , I somehow have missed all this . Very proffesional job ,very informative.
I grow in soil and am transitioning over to DG soon . As seen how well it performed for you in soil , plus everyone I know is playing with it too. Not to mention UB's suggestions of using it . +rep to you and will be following your work . Excellent job**

KQ
*


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## homebrewer (Mar 25, 2011)

kingofqueen said:


> ***Just finished reading the entire thread , I somehow have missed all this . Very proffesional job ,very informative.
> I grow in soil and am transitioning over to DG soon . As seen how well it performed for you in soil , plus everyone I know is playing with it too. Not to mention UB's suggestions of using it . +rep to you and will be following your work . Excellent job**
> 
> KQ
> *


 Thanks! It'll all you'll ever need. Feel free to hit me up if you have any questions.


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## hogs (Mar 26, 2011)

Thanks HB...Just waiting for the Dyn-Gro to arrive and can ditch all these An Crap all 7 to 10 bottles of it

I may need some help and can`t pm ya so if it comes to that Hope I can post my email and we can sort it out from there as I can`t pm yet...

Thanks lmk if thats cool with ya


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## kingofqueen (Mar 26, 2011)

*Question for ya HB . I'm going to finish out my Jacks Classic b4 I switch over to Dyna-Gro . Do you think that Liquid Karma (already have sum) will fill the gaps in micro's that Jacks doesn,t cover ?*


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## Illumination (Mar 26, 2011)

mostly just need to cover the cal and mag that is missing from jack's...cant advise as to the karma


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## homebrewer (Mar 26, 2011)

kingofqueen said:


> *Question for ya HB . I'm going to finish out my Jacks Classic b4 I switch over to Dyna-Gro . Do you think that Liquid Karma (already have sum) will fill the gaps in micro's that Jacks doesn,t cover ?*


 I don't think karma has any micros: http://www.americanagritech.com/supplements/liquid-karma

It's a humic acid type additive that I used to use in the dirt but after switching to DGt, I don't even bother with liquid karma anymore.

EDIT: It's just one of those additives that isn't really needed IMO. I currently use floralicious plus in my hydro system and while I wont swear by it, I do find it to provide some ascetic benefits.


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## kingofqueen (Mar 26, 2011)

homebrewer said:


> I don't think karma has any micros: http://www.americanagritech.com/supplements/liquid-karma
> 
> It's a humic acid type additive that I used to use in the dirt but after switching to DGt, I don't even bother with liquid karma anymore.
> 
> EDIT: It's just one of those additives that isn't really needed IMO. I currently use floralicious plus in my hydro system and while I wont swear by it, I do find it to provide some ascetic benefits.


Thanks . I read the label before but it's been awile . I'll have to just go ahead and Get some Dyna Gro . Thanks


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## Merciless_One (Mar 26, 2011)

Homebrewer....great info here. I recently switched to using the GH nutes and I gotta say i'm really happy. I can only imagine how awesome the DG nutes are  Once I use these up I will give DG a try. 

I have a quick question that maybe you can answer. 

I purchased the nutes based on the "Keep it simple Recirculating Program" ( http://www.genhydro.com/genhydro_US/feeding_charts/GH_KeepItSimple_Recirculating.pdf )

- grow
- bloom
- micro
- liquid koolbloom
- floralicious plus

However, when I went to the store I saw a GH feeding pamphlet and grabbed it and figured I would read it later. When I looked at it, I noticed that it's essentially the same thing, except with the addition of "Flora Blend". 


So, my question is this...how important is it to use "Flora Blend" and what benefits does it serve , in your experience ? Is there anythign else that is comparable to it? The feeding chart sasy to feed the girls quite a bit of this stuff..but the one on the website does not mention it.

Oh, I guess I have 2 questions...lol. I also have a bottle of Technaflora "Sugar Daddy" Have you ever used it ...is this something that I can use in conjunction with the GH nutes that I have ? 

Also, I had a bit of input regarding the whole "Aggressive" formulas. I spoke with a rep and basically if your plants can take it, you can use the "aggressive" formulas INSTEAD of the regular formulas...but it's not meant to be a "stage" of the development...like going from bloom to "aggressive" bloom...to ripen. Hopefully I'm making some kind of sense, lol. So in normal conditions, you would never use the 'aggressive' formulas..you would just use the "bloom" formula for the entire flowerign period until the "ripening" stage. 

Thanks again! It's awesome that you take so much time and effort to help everyone out. It definitely doesn't go unnoticed or unappreciated!


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## homebrewer (Mar 26, 2011)

Merciless_One said:


> So, my question is this...how important is it to use "Flora Blend" and what benefits does it serve , in your experience ? Is there anythign else that is comparable to it? The feeding chart sasy to feed the girls quite a bit of this stuff..but the one on the website does not mention it.


Flora blend is a vegan compost tea and I'm not going to pretend like it's magical or even justifies it's price. I use it because I have it sitting around and I don't always remember to use it, that's how important it is to me. I found that it provides certain ascetic benefits which are similar to floralicious plus like slightly better resin production and better aroma. It doesn't improve flavor or potency necessarily and if I run out, I don't know that I'd scramble to the store immediately to buy more. Personally, I like to use a rock soild, balanced nutrient along with an 'organic-ish' type additive. Right now if I run out of florablend, I'll just use floralicious plus. 






> Oh, I guess I have 2 questions...lol. I also have a bottle of Technaflora "Sugar Daddy" Have you ever used it ...is this something that I can use in conjunction with the GH nutes that I have ?


Never heard of it and based on the name, I'd never buy it. If I saw it in the store, I wouldn't even think about seeing what's in it or what they're claiming it does. 



> Also, I had a bit of input regarding the whole "Aggressive" formulas. I spoke with a rep and basically if your plants can take it, you can use the "aggressive" formulas INSTEAD of the regular formulas...but it's not meant to be a "stage" of the development...like going from bloom to "aggressive" bloom...to ripen. Hopefully I'm making some kind of sense, lol. So in normal conditions, you would never use the 'aggressive' formulas..you would just use the "bloom" formula for the entire flowerign period until the "ripening" stage.


 _The_ number one thing anyone can do to get better potency and yield is to keep plants healthy at all times. Give them what they need, when they need it. For me, this concept is much easier to accomplish in hydro as I know _exactly_ what my plants are getting at all times based on what I put in the res. Do. Not. Overfeed. Ever. People think slamming nutes down your plant's throat is the best way for big yields but the truth is that if you make 'what plants need' available to them at all times, then they'll pull up what they need, when they need it. 

In my most recent journal, I fed my plants at 1.2 EC or low 800's for ppms and yielded better than I have ever yielded off of AK47. What this tells me (which is what I've suspected for a while now) is that my plants have enough nutrients in the water at 1.2EC and anything higher than that is actually harming my plants and hurting my yield. 

I once thought my Dumpster strain was a 'heavy feeder' and would run her at 1400ppm or 2.0EC. My last round I ran her at 1100ppm or 1.6 EC and again yielded more than I've ever yielded with her (an improvement of 1-2 ounces). This round I'll go even lower. 

In regards to the_ aggressive _feeding schedules, those are for beginners.


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## Merciless_One (Mar 26, 2011)

homebrewer said:


> Flora blend is a vegan compost tea and I'm not going to pretend like it's magical or even justifies it's price. I use it because I have it sitting around and I don't always remember to use it, that's how important it is to me. I found that it provides certain ascetic benefits which are similar to floralicious plus like slightly better resin production and better aroma. It doesn't improve flavor or potency necessarily and if I run out, I don't know that I'd scramble to the store immediately to buy more. Personally, I like to use a rock soild, balanced nutrient along with an 'organic-ish' type additive. Right now if I run out of florablend, I'll just use floralicious plus.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info re: Flora Blend. I sorta was thinking it was something that I didnt' have to be concerned that I was not using. 

As for the feeding charts, over nuting..etc...I agree totally. I am pretty much a novice, but I've gone through the process a few times now and went through that "OMG I gotta pump these babies up with nutes!" stage. You can imagine how it turned out  I've actually found that my plants are happiest using about 1/2 of the recommended dosage in that "Keep it simple" program with my Hydrofarm buckets. 

However, I think i will switch over to the Dyna-Grow once I use these nutes up. I'll just give away the Sugar Daddy...it was a free sample anyways


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## defcomexperiment (Mar 26, 2011)

ive been using dyna-gro and probably will never switch to anything else... my regimen is pretty much:

dyna-gro foliage pro or bloom depending on photoperiod
dyna-gro protekt
botanicare liquid karma
hygrozyme
and that is it.


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## Merciless_One (Mar 26, 2011)

HB..sorry...one more quick question. Do you prefer any particular flavor of "sweet" from botanicare ? They have several flavors...I was thinking of just going with the raw. Does it affect the flavor or smell...or is that just something that they want u to think ?


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## homebrewer (Mar 27, 2011)

Merciless_One said:


> HB..sorry...one more quick question. Do you prefer any particular flavor of "sweet" from botanicare ? They have several flavors...I was thinking of just going with the raw. Does it affect the flavor or smell...or is that just something that they want u to think ?


 I used 'berry' and 'grape' and even tested those against Floranectar and none of them ever contributed any kinda of aroma or flavor specific to their 'flavor'. Sweet has a good dose of sulfur which [FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]contributes to odor and taste in some vegetables and I found sweet to slightly enhance the natural aroma of the strains I have. Would I notice a difference between a final product where sweet was use vs not used? I seriously doubt it. Sulfur is the desirable ingredient in that product, not the aminos or the simple sugars.

Currently I'm using magpro which has a similar dose of sulfur and magnesium so I don't use sweet anymore. 
[/FONT]


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## Merciless_One (Mar 27, 2011)

homebrewer said:


> I used 'berry' and 'grape' and even tested those against Floranectar and none of them ever contributed any kinda of aroma or flavor specific to their 'flavor'. Sweet has a good dose of sulfur which [FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]contributes to odor and taste in some vegetables and I found sweet to slightly enhance the natural aroma of the strains I have. Would I notice a difference between a final product where sweet was use vs not used? I seriously doubt it. Sulfur is the desirable ingredient in that product, not the aminos or the simple sugars.[/FONT]
> 
> [FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]Currently I'm using magpro which has a similar dose of sulfur and magnesium so I don't use sweet anymore. [/FONT]


Awesome...good info to know, thank you very much  I know I went off topic a bit, I appreciate you bearing with me.


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## SandstormGT (Mar 29, 2011)

a few questions for you homebrewer, I have read all the way through your thread but missed this info if you have posted it previously.

1. How many times are you flooding your tray per day, I'd imagine 1-2 depending on what stage but just wanted to see what you were using.

2. How high do you flood your tray, basically, how high do you think the water line needs to come up on the 6x6 blocks for them to saturate?

3. When you flush with clearex, do you just run it like normal for several cycles or do you top feed the blocks to help it leech out the bottom?


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## jeeba (Mar 29, 2011)

Ive smoked a few doobs of dumpdter I like it.Why does it only get a 6 on the strain review?


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## homebrewer (Mar 29, 2011)

SandstormGT said:


> 1. How many times are you flooding your tray per day, I'd imagine 1-2 depending on what stage but just wanted to see what you were using.


A minimum of 2 but that depends on the stage of growth and how much the ladies are drinking. 


> 2. How high do you flood your tray, basically, how high do you think the water line needs to come up on the 6x6 blocks for them to saturate?


Just a few inches. The rockwool will wick up the water. 


> 3. When you flush with clearex, do you just run it like normal for several cycles or do you top feed the blocks to help it leech out the bottom?


I don't use clearex anymore. I run water for 2 hours and top feed a few times to leach out salts. After 2 hours, the res is drained and fresh nutes and water are added.


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## homebrewer (Mar 29, 2011)

jeeba said:


> Ive smoked a few doobs of dumpdter I like it.Why does it only get a 6 on the strain review?


 Got a link to that review?


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## jeeba (Mar 29, 2011)

http://en.seedfinder.eu/strain-info/Dumpster/Clone_Only_Strains/


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## homebrewer (Mar 29, 2011)

jeeba said:


> http://en.seedfinder.eu/strain-info/Dumpster/Clone_Only_Strains/


 Thanks for the link. It looks like the strain rating was based on one review which is copied below:


> For this strain we got input by 1 user(s). Here a short overview:
> 
> *Flowering Time Indoor:* 63 - 77 days (~70 days)
> *Yield / Quantity Indoor:* The crop of this strain is very high.
> ...


I would disagree with everything from the flowering times to his overall rating. Based on my preference for sativa dominant hybrids, Dumpster is my least favorite strain that I have right now but I keep it around because the patients that love indica-dominant strains LOVE this. It's just a heavy, intense, body and mind numbing indica which glues you to the couch and makes you slur your words. That's not _my_ cup-of-tea but it's preferred by patients over the sativa-dominant varieties that I have.


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## jeeba (Mar 29, 2011)

Cool thanks for the info.To me it tasted like fish guts and I agree it will slump you.


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## brownbearclan (Mar 31, 2011)

Just thought I'd share a comment I received at another forum yesterday, someone told me to, "Throw that shit in the garbage (referring to Dyna-Gro) and go buy yourself some General Hydroponics nutes." I explained that I had actually choose the DG over GH on purpose because I wanted to keep it simple and inexpensive. This comment was made because I have rust on only ONE of all my babies. (My PH was too low for Calcium uptake apparently, had it at 5.8 and lowered to 5.5, seems to have resolved it). So I commented with a link to your 2 DG threads and said 'check this out' and haven't heard a word since. Thanks again HB. =)


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## homebrewer (Mar 31, 2011)

brownbearclan said:


> This comment was made because I have rust on only ONE of all my babies. (My PH was too low for Calcium uptake apparently, had it at 5.8 and lowered to 5.5, seems to have resolved it). So I commented with a link to your 2 DG threads and said 'check this out' and haven't heard a word since. Thanks again HB. =)


 5.5 is lower than I prefer to operate. If you have a link to a picture of your plants, PM me, maybe I can figure out what's going on because these are the signs of a Ca deficiency:



> [FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]Inhibition of bud growth; roots can turn black and rot; young leaves are scalloped and abnormally green; leaf tips may stick together; cupping of maturing leaves; blossom end rot of many fruits, pits on root vegetables; stem structure is weak; premature shedding of fruit and buds[/FONT]


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## gdahustla (Apr 1, 2011)

excellent thread, almost lifechanging for a noob like me lol by profession I am a system analyst and professional sports investor always learning and perfecting my technique. I have been researching the best product range of nutes for hydro out there and to me there was one stand out nutrient company and that was advanced nutrients. that was until I read this thread , wow didn't realise the firm and likes of were taking me for a complete fool. ha no longer. thanks again homebrewer, ur da man!!! 

I'm gonna do a physical comparison like you to prove to myself with 1 dyna tray and 1 AN tray that AN is just basically dyna broken down into 20 well marketed bottles. will probably do a journal too but I don't think ill have enough time to do a great one but will post nutrients used and feeding schedule and a few pics. I will be comparing yeild , taste and looks. all three are very important to me , even looks. it has to be full package. ill keep you posted when I start in around 7 weeks. 

I'm in the UK and my water is around ph 7.5. do you think ill need the cal-mag. how can I verify for sure???


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## homebrewer (Apr 1, 2011)

gdahustla said:


> I'm gonna do a physical comparison like you to prove to myself with 1 dyna tray and 1 AN tray that _AN is just basically dyna broken down into 20 well marketed bottles_.


 Actually, even if you combined all the bottles AN offers, it still wouldn't be as complete as one bottle of DG's grow or bloom. Try it for yourself. 



> *do you think ill need the cal-mag. how can I verify for sure??? *


Don't use calmag unless you see a deficiency in one or the other. Make sure you diagnose correctly too as 90% of the time growers think their nutrients are causing a problem, it's actually just operator error. That can happen with DG too so use it correctly .


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## burrr (Apr 6, 2011)

I've been running the dynagrow since I first read this journal. It's been about 6 weeks now that I've been using it in a RDWC setup. 
For me, the mix seems really "hot". I have a group of 3 plants, about 5 weeks into flower that have been on dynagrow since mid veg. I have a sativa, indica, and a hybrid. 
I started running my mix at 700 ppm, already way below the suggested feeding. I saw nute burn on the hybrid, and nitrogen overload on the indica.
The sativa looked 100% happy.
I've been dropping the levels even more, since I realized that I was seeing nute burn and not some deficiency. I'm now down to 375 ppm, and the hydrid is finally looking happy. It has some new white hairs popping out of the tops. The Indica has been really weak on the bud production, and looks overly green and leafy.
I was also seeing daily drops in PH from 5.9 to 4.9
I had better luck running my old GH, and yesterday I switched back to it. 
Do you think the ammonia based nutes are my problem?


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## burrr (Apr 6, 2011)

these 3 were are all at week 5, on dynagrow. 
started off at 1 part grow/ 3parts bloom


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## homebrewer (Apr 6, 2011)

burrr said:


> I've been running the dynagrow since I first read this journal. It's been about 6 weeks now that I've been using it in a RDWC setup.
> For me, the mix seems really "hot". I have a group of 3 plants, about 5 weeks into flower that have been on dynagrow since mid veg. I have a sativa, indica, and a hybrid.
> I started running my mix at 700 ppm, already way below the suggested feeding. I saw nute burn on the hybrid, and nitrogen overload on the indica.
> The sativa looked 100% happy.
> ...


 A few questions:

What ppm scale are you on?
Are you running all these plants out of the same res?
What is the ppm of your water?
What DG products are you using and how much of each are going into a gallon of water?
Are your strains from seed or clones?
If clones, have you grown them before?


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## burrr (Apr 6, 2011)

homebrewer said:


> A few questions:
> 
> What ppm scale are you on?
> Are you running all these plants out of the same res?
> ...



I'm a bit of a newbie, but have been reading a bunch.
The meter I use is an aquapro AP-1, i'm pretty sure it's the .5 conversion

I am running these 3 plants out of the same res.

I am using RO water

I am using 5ml per gallon bloom
3 ml per gallon protekt
1 ml per gallon calmag
earlier in the bloom cycle I was using a little bit of grow with the bloom.
I'll mix a batch, and than water down till I like the ppm.

These are 3 clones I purchased from a dispensary, and my first time with them.

My room humidty is about 35% most of the time. It goes as hi as 50% when the plants transpire alot. They are using way more water now that I've dropped the ppm down, and helping to hold the humidity higher.
using 600 watts of HPS, about 18" over the girls.


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## homebrewer (Apr 6, 2011)

burrr said:


> I'm a bit of a newbie, but have been reading a bunch.
> The meter I use is an aquapro AP-1, i'm pretty sure it's the .5 conversion


700ppm on your scale is too high for a few of my strains. Try just under 600ppm on your scale.



> I am running these 3 plants out of the same res.


Yeah, quit doing that. Feeding levels aren't 'one size fits all'.




> I am using 5ml per gallon bloom


 That's not enough nitrogen for your plants. Use a minimum of 1ml of grow all the way though flower. Keep your ppms in check.


> 3 ml per gallon protekt


Use 5mls/gallon


> 1 ml per gallon calmag


I have not found a need for calmag but I do use magpro with my RO water. 


> earlier in the bloom cycle I was using a little bit of grow with the bloom.


I mix grow and bloom all the way through. 




> These are 3 clones I purchased from a dispensary, and my first time with them.


Only experienced growers can get great results growing a plant for the first time. Not being familiar with the needs and tendencies of the strain can make the first run difficult. Learn from your mistakes. 

Additional info: top your res off each day and make sure your ppm isn't getting out of control.

EDIT: GH is solid but Dynagro for me is out-yielding GH by _ounces_ each and every time I use it. My dumpster strain which yielded '16 ounces like clockwork' off a 600 is now yielding 20 ounces. All my strains have seen a substantial increase but you need to have a pretty good understanding of what you're doing to fairly compare one line to the next. Use what works best for you but DG > GH all day long.


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## burrr (Apr 6, 2011)

I have another 2 plants still on dynagrow, at week 3 of flower. These have never been over 500 ppm, and are still looking good. They are a nice deep green, with fan leaves that are still flat. The single leaves at the tops are behaving oddly though, the leaves facing away from the light have downward curl. the leaves under the light, or facing the light are sticking out nice and straight. what could this be telling me? these have been at 375 ppm for a week now.


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## burrr (Apr 6, 2011)

Homebrewer, thanks a bunch for your help.
I've become a caregiver for another Colorado cardholder, so I can grow another 3 plants in bloom. I think I'm going to give ebb and flow a try under one of the 600's. I've got all sorts of pumps, fittings and timers. I should be able to mimmick your concrete mixing tub set up, and grow in 6 in cubes, 6 to a tray. I hope you'll still be on rollitup to help me out!


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## homebrewer (Apr 6, 2011)

burrr said:


> View attachment 1536139I have another 2 plants still on dynagrow, at week 3 of flower. These have never been over 500 ppm, and are still looking good. They are a nice deep green, with fan leaves that are still flat. The single leaves at the tops are behaving oddly though, the leaves facing away from the light have downward curl. the leaves under the light, or facing the light are sticking out nice and straight. what could this be telling me? these have been at 375 ppm for a week now.


 I'm in flood and drain so I don't know if feeding levels are the same for both hydro methods. If anything, I would error on the light side if I were you and just monitor the plant's progress. Keep them healthy and they'll do what's ingrained in their DNA. Those plants look healthy at 3 weeks. Keep them that way and take notes on your feeding schedules (ie. how much grow and bloom at which week and how the plants are looking).


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## Encomium (Apr 8, 2011)

I'm subbing to this. I just recently changed over to Dynogrow line. I was running GH Lucas formula but noticed some deficiencies. I just like the simplicity of these nutes. Thanks hb for the awesome thread!


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## hornedfrog2000 (Apr 13, 2011)

Hey, I'm running the veg recirculating schedule. They are talking about ml per gallons of water in that schedule right?


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## homebrewer (Apr 13, 2011)

hornedfrog2000 said:


> Hey, I'm running the veg recirculating schedule. They are talking about ml per gallons of water in that schedule right?


 I veg with about 3-5mls of grow and about 4mls of protekt per gallon, that's all they need.


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## hornedfrog2000 (Apr 13, 2011)

Cool man. I'm gonna transplant them tonight. I'll be back with more questions haha. Thanks!


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## hornedfrog2000 (Apr 15, 2011)

How much Magpro should I use in a recirc per gallon? Does this have both Calcium and Mag? I think I'm having some cal/mag issues.


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## homebrewer (Apr 15, 2011)

hornedfrog2000 said:


> How much Magpro should I use in a recirc per gallon? Does this have both Calcium and Mag? I think I'm having some cal/mag issues.


 You're not having cal/mag issues, you're overfeeding. The following is from your journal:



> Alright I'm running the 2 week hydro feed schedule I found online which says 7.5ml of grow per gallon, 4ml of Pro tekt, and .5ml of magpro. Do you think this seems like a good regimen, or should I do something else???


See post #390 of this thread. 

I use *RO water *and use 2mls of magpro per gallon in_ flower only. _


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## hornedfrog2000 (Apr 15, 2011)

Alright. I was just going by the instructions. Thanks for the help. Also, if anyone wants to help me in my journal the link to it is in my sig.

Homebrewer. What is your ppm with that 3-5ml of grow per gallon?


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## fallinprince (Apr 17, 2011)

hey homebrewer im looking into buyin nutrient ASAP. dynagrow seems perfect for my setup my only question is. 
Ive got leftover nutrient from my last grow (by leftover i mean mostly full)
Ive got great white" root booster. B-52 from advanced nutrient. As well as silica blast, clearex from botanicare and Superthrive and Cal-mag
I plan on buying Dyna Grow, Bloom. 
Do Should i reuse some of my older nutrient or buy pro-tekt and pro-mag (and attempt to sell leftover nutrient)

Ps my setup is an aeroponic setup with the white bars


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## homebrewer (Apr 17, 2011)

fallinprince said:


> hey homebrewer im looking into buyin nutrient ASAP. dynagrow seems perfect for my setup my only question is.
> Ive got leftover nutrient from my last grow (by leftover i mean mostly full)
> Ive got great white" root booster. B-52 from advanced nutrient. As well as silica blast, clearex from botanicare and Superthrive and Cal-mag
> I plan on buying Dyna Grow, Bloom.
> ...


When you're out of silica blast, go pick up some protekt and if you're using RO water, pick up some Magpro too. Calmag and superthrive can be helpful at times when used correctly but I don't use either of them in hydro, ever. Sell the other stuff.


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## fallinprince (Apr 17, 2011)

Bah doublepost


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## fallinprince (Apr 17, 2011)

i will be using R/O according to my cheapo Ebay TDS meter, my Basic tap water is 450 (which was the cause of the death of my last plant).
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/425937-recircluating-aeroponics-second-grow-white.html#post5609768 is a link to the grow journal im starting tomorrow ill post pictures and put up my tent W/O good lights Atm just CFL's

how big of an area does your 600watt setup use?


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## homebrewer (Apr 17, 2011)

fallinprince said:


> how big of an area does your 600watt setup use?


About 3x3 roughly.


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## duo maxwell (Apr 17, 2011)

Hey, Homebrewer, how do you decide to when your going to put your plants into flowering? I can't find any consistent info on this subject. Any info on this would be greatly appreciated.


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## homebrewer (Apr 18, 2011)

duo maxwell said:


> Hey, Homebrewer, how do you decide to when your going to put your plants into flowering? I can't find any consistent info on this subject. Any info on this would be greatly appreciated.


 I know what to expect out the the strains I have when in flower so I try to grow them up to a certain point in veg knowing they'll double or triple in height. The stretch seems to be greater in hydro than in soil so my hydro plants are usually never taller than 15 inches when I move them to 12/12. I also top and train them in veg before they get to that height so that I have a 'bushy' structure. 600's will only penetrate so far into the canopy so there is a point of diminishing returns as far as height and veg time goes and how it relates to yield. For me and my situation, 15 inches or so in hydro and about 20 inches in dirt are about the ideal heights for me to get the most out of my plants while minimizing veg times.


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## duo maxwell (Apr 18, 2011)

homebrewer said:


> I know what to expect out the the strains I have when in flower so I try to grow them up to a certain point in veg knowing they'll double or triple in height. The stretch seems to be greater in hydro than in soil so my hydro plants are usually never taller than 15 inches when I move them to 12/12. I also top and train them in veg before they get to that height so that I have a 'bushy' structure. 600's will only penetrate so far into the canopy so there is a point of diminishing returns as far as height and veg time goes and how it relates to yield. For me and my situation, 15 inches or so in hydro and about 20 inches in dirt are about the ideal heights for me to get the most out of my plants while minimizing veg times.


 Do your strains show signs of sex before you put them into bloom? If not, do you ever get plants that hermie from early flowering? I was wondering if There is any truth to the "early flowering puts a lot of stress on the plant" debate.


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## Illumination (Apr 18, 2011)

duo maxwell said:


> Do your strains show signs of sex before you put them into bloom? If not, do you ever get plant that hermie from early flowering? I was wondering if There is any truth to the "early flowering puts a lot of stress on the plant" debate.



it is bullshit


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## homebrewer (Apr 18, 2011)

duo maxwell said:


> Do your strains show signs of sex before you put them into bloom? If not, do you ever get plants that hermie from early flowering? I was wondering if There is any truth to the "early flowering puts a lot of stress on the plant" debate.


 I flower clones 99% of the time from my mothers. Usually plants will show preflowers in veg, especially females, but I've never heard of your early flower hermie situation.


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## duo maxwell (Apr 18, 2011)

Illumination said:


> it is bullshit


 Thanks I thought the same thing I just wanted to ask some experienced growers.


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## duo maxwell (Apr 18, 2011)

homebrewer said:


> I flower clones 99% of the time from my mothers. Usually plants will show preflowers in veg, especially females, but I've never heard of your early flower hermie situation.


Yeah, a lot of the people on here seem to think That if you flower you plants early that the stress will cause plants to hermie.Thanks for the help guys and happy growing.


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## homebrewer (Apr 18, 2011)

duo maxwell said:


> Yeah, a lot of the people on here seem to think That if you flower you plants early that the stress will cause plants to hermie.Thanks for the help guys and happy growing.


 A lot of growers on here hold a lot of incorrect things to be true. Just find a few guys who are performing like you'd like to perform and pick their brains.


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## Illumination (Apr 18, 2011)

duo maxwell said:


> Yeah, a lot of the people on here seem to think That if you flower you plants early that the stress will cause plants to hermie.Thanks for the help guys and happy growing.



Although I have noticed that from seed a longer veg will make a noticeable increase in potency....not phenomenal but I can tell from what I have grown...have found that in most instances at least 6 weeks seems to be the shortest IMHHO


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## duo maxwell (Apr 18, 2011)

Illumination said:


> Although I have noticed that from seed a longer veg will make a noticeable increase in potency....not phenomenal but I can tell from what I have grown...have found that in most instances at least 6 weeks seems to be the shortest IMHHO


yeah sorry i forgot to mention that I was starting from seed.
OK... OK so this is what i take from you guys.From what you have seen there will be a slight yet noticeable drop in potency from early flowering.(early: meaning before six weeks or so) When you grow a plant from seed you have to grow it to maturity if you want to receive its full potency (assuming you do everything else near perfect from seedling to harvest).
If i start from a clone (A clone is a genetic copy from the mother plant. Which is also the same age as the mother plant.) then I should have no problem with early flowering.Seeing is that if i were to take a clone from a 4 week old plant and put it to veg for 2 weeks then technically the clone would be a 6 week old plant, right?
Please correct me if I am wrong. I am trying to understand this concept. Thanks again guys you are a huge help.


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## Sonnyjim23 (Apr 18, 2011)

duo maxwell said:


> yeah sorry i forgot to mention that I was starting from seed.
> OK... OK so this is what i take from you guys.From what you have seen there will be a slight yet noticeable drop in potency from early flowering.(early: meaning before six weeks or so) When you grow a plant from seed you have to grow it to maturity if you want to receive its full potency (assuming you do everything else near perfect from seedling to harvest).
> If i start from a clone (A clone is a genetic copy from the mother plant. Which is also the same age as the mother plant.) then I should have no problem with early flowering.Seeing is that if i were to take a clone from a 4 week old plant and put it to veg for 2 weeks then technically the clone would be a 6 week old plant, right?
> Please correct me if I am wrong. I am trying to understand this concept. Thanks again guys you are a huge help.


You can flower a clone the minute it roots, as you said its a genetic copy of the mother and already is aware of its maturity. People tend to wait 2 weeks to give the roots time to grow, I however grow my clones in an aero cloner and at the first signs of good roots i pot them up and put them straight into bloom. 

I am of course running a sog set up.


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## fallinprince (Apr 18, 2011)

hey sonny is a SOG hard to setup/maintain? would it be needed with 12 plants in a 5x5 area?

Can everyone tell me how big there roots are by the end of the grow?

im trying to see how big to veg my ladies in my setup before ill run into root space issues
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/425937-recircluating-aeroponics-second-grow-white.html#post5609768 For a picture of the setup (full build coming when my nutrients come in due to this town not having dyna-gro suppliers and my lights having some kind of customs issue)

ive got 20 slots i was thinking about using 12 in a 
1-0-1-0-1
1-0-1-0-1
1-0-1-0-1 Fashion under a 1000watter


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## Encomium (Apr 20, 2011)

Are there supposed to be little white flakes in the ProTekt? I just noticed it the other day after changing out reservoirs, don't remember it being that way the last time I measured it out.


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## hornedfrog2000 (Apr 20, 2011)

Did you accidently get some grow in there? I heard it can crystalize if you mix it funny...?


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## Illumination (Apr 20, 2011)

Encomium said:


> Are there supposed to be little white flakes in the ProTekt? I just noticed it the other day after changing out reservoirs, don't remember it being that way the last time I measured it out.


No it is supposed to be clear...something has entered the solution or caused the ph to drop and that is precipitate...silica needs high pH around 10.5 to remain soluble in high concentrations...is why they cannot just add it to the other nutes at the high concentrations or it will precipitate


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## Lt. Dan (Apr 20, 2011)

I've seen a few specks in mine also.


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## homebrewer (Apr 20, 2011)

Encomium said:


> Are there supposed to be little white flakes in the ProTekt? I just noticed it the other day after changing out reservoirs, don't remember it being that way the last time I measured it out.


 The little white flakes are normal.


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## fallinprince (Apr 20, 2011)

Silica blast from botanicare has lots of white silica flakes in it. When i first opened it i was like SO THIS is what they fill boobs with 

Any chance homebrewer wants to tell me roughly how much root room he uses by the end of the grow?


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## homebrewer (Apr 21, 2011)

fallinprince said:


> Any chance homebrewer wants to tell me roughly how much root room he uses by the end of the grow?


 My plants are in the 6 inch rockwool blocks and the roots stay confined to the block. I'm not sure if that's what you're asking.


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## Encomium (Apr 21, 2011)

Thanks guys for the responses. It's not a lot of tiny specks just a wee bit so I was just curious if I had missed it mixing my first few batches of nute solution. 

On a different note, I was ph'ing one of my reservoirs and noticed a very faint cloudiness to it. The other reservoir I mixed a day after is not cloudy and is what I expect (clear and tinged green). I had thought this might be due to the Protekt I had used to mix the solution was bad (ie the white flakes) but since hb says it's normal then I'm wondering if this could have been due to the water I had used to fill the rez after the last change-out. I use tapwater @ 125 ppm. Typically I fill up X amount of 1-gallon (old plastic distilled water jugs) jugs of tapwater and let it sit overnight with the caps off then use that to fill up a clean reservoir. With the cloudy rez previously mentioned, the tapwater had sat in the gallon jugs with caps on for 7 days (covered with a blanket so light proof). Could this be a reason why this particular rez is cloudy? I've also thought it could be due to removing an airstone from the rez and placing it into the smaller rez next to it. The cloudy rez is quite large, 16 gallons full, with only 1 airstone aerating it.


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## homebrewer (Apr 21, 2011)

Encomium said:


> ...the tapwater had sat in the gallon jugs with caps on for 7 days (covered with a blanket so light proof). Could this be a reason why this particular rez is cloudy? I've also thought it could be due to removing an airstone from the rez and placing it into the smaller rez next to it. The cloudy rez is quite large, 16 gallons full, with only 1 airstone aerating it.


 If protekt isn't mixed in thoroughly before you start adding the base nutes, it will bond to minerals and create a cloudy solution. A better sign is that you'll see mineral particulate at the bottom of your res if that was the case. If this isn't the cause of your cloudy res, then I'd suggest you skip the 'sit your water out overnight' step. Only in extreme cases would this be necessary and odds are, your water isn't extreme being what it is. Cloudy water aside, if your pH is stable and EC is in check and the plants look good, don't worry about it. Change your res out in less than a week and make some tweaks.


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## hornedfrog2000 (Apr 21, 2011)

Homebrewer. I have 35% h2o2 here waiting to be used. How much, and how often should I use it?


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## homebrewer (Apr 21, 2011)

hornedfrog2000 said:


> Homebrewer. I have 35% h2o2 here waiting to be used. How much, and how often should I use it?


 I don't know actually, I've never had to use it. I know Al B fuct advocates its use and he has some threads around here. Check out his advice. Though I've never seen his plants so I would look elsewhere to confirm the dosages he's recommending.


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## Encomium (Apr 21, 2011)

homebrewer said:


> If protekt isn't mixed in thoroughly before you start adding the base nutes, it will bond to minerals and create a cloudy solution. A better sign is that you'll see mineral particulate at the bottom of your res if that was the case. If this isn't the cause of your cloudy res, then I'd suggest you skip the 'sit your water out overnight' step. Only in extreme cases would this be necessary and odds are, your water isn't extreme being what it is. Cloudy water aside, if your pH is stable and EC is in check and the plants look good, don't worry about it. Change your res out in less than a week and make some tweaks.


Thanks again hb. Yea my ph and ec are stable (as these DG nutes seem to be). I'll swap out my rez then in a few days and keep a close eye on things.


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## fallinprince (Apr 21, 2011)

https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/311670-guide-hydrogen-peroxide-hydroponics-systems.html

As far as using it often its only really needed when your plants are having a bacteria or fungus related problem.

It will kill all beneficial bacteria in your system as well as the bad.

In that guide it says "IF YOUR RES temperature is above 72" the recommended res temp according to this video is 58 degrees.
http://www.youtube.com/user/urbangrower?feature=chclk#p/u/283/Jxp9TL-JqVI

Anyone have an opinion on proper res temperature.


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## brownbearclan (Apr 23, 2011)

hornedfrog2000 said:


> Homebrewer. I have 35% h2o2 here waiting to be used. How much, and how often should I use it?


I use it about 2-3ml per gallon. Anywhere from 1-5ml/g is good depending on how hot your res is getting and how often you change it. I change every 10 days and res temps kick it around 70 usually. The plants love it! =)


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## hornedfrog2000 (Apr 24, 2011)

brownbearclan said:


> I use it about 2-3ml per gallon. Anywhere from 1-5ml/g is good depending on how hot your res is getting and how often you change it. I change every 10 days and res temps kick it around 70 usually. The plants love it! =)



My res stays pretty cool. I went about 5ml gallon today, but will keep what you said in mind. Probably use around 4-5 per gallon in the future.


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## Trichy Bastard (Apr 26, 2011)

fallinprince said:


> https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/311670-guide-hydrogen-peroxide-hydroponics-systems.html
> 
> As far as using it often its only really needed when your plants are having a bacteria or fungus related problem.
> 
> ...


I've just been told by an authority, and read a few confirmational posts that 65-77 degrees is ok- with 68 being optimal. The warmer it is the less oxygen it will contain, and the more algea will grow...


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## hornedfrog2000 (Apr 26, 2011)

I thought 58 deg F was optimal?


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## homebrewer (Apr 26, 2011)

I'm at 75* and have never had an issue.


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## Trichy Bastard (Apr 27, 2011)

homebrewer said:


> I'm at 75* and have never had an issue.


Well- I just had to buy a chiller- freakin expensive (probably due to the titanium exchanger plate that wont leach in salts) but my water was 95 and seedlings were frying. Sounds like perhaps now I can control the temps we might have to run another (experiment)... I think for ebb and flow it shouldnt matter much- once it recedes it will cool off by evaporation and get oxygen too, but those dwc guys probably have it worse off...


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## HighC (May 1, 2011)

Would your DIY Ebb and Flow fit in a 6' 6" Tent? How tall off the ground do your plants normally finish? Your grows have been awesome to look at and have given me some additional insight. Thanks


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## homebrewer (May 1, 2011)

HighC said:


> Would your DIY Ebb and Flow fit in a 6' 6" Tent? How tall off the ground do your plants normally finish? Your grows have been awesome to look at and have given me some additional insight. Thanks


 Definitely but you'd either need to find a strain that doesn't stretch too much in flower (indica dominant) or just not veg very long. The actual flood table and res are pretty low profile so as long as you're not blazing a 1000 then I think you'd have plenty of headroom for a light and vertical growth.


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## hornedfrog2000 (May 1, 2011)

I'm actually fighting with this right now. My table is in a 3x3 and it's plenty of room horizontally, but vertically I probably needed more than 6ft tall.


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## mr.smileyface (May 5, 2011)

Hey Homebrewer. You think Dynagrow would be a better commercial brand considering the ph stability? 
Would you run the Gh in veg or does dyna have a "grow solution" 
Im looking for a food i can put in the res and not watch for a few days ph/ppm wise.


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## homebrewer (May 5, 2011)

mr.smileyface said:


> Hey Homebrewer. You think Dynagrow would be a better commercial brand considering the ph stability?
> Would you run the Gh in veg or does dyna have a "grow solution"
> Im looking for a food i can put in the res and not watch for a few days ph/ppm wise.


 DG is a great 'set it and forget it' nutrient. I only check my pH every other day and I only check it because I top off with plain water. GH was never that stable for me.

In regards to ppm, that will always fluctuate unless you're feeding your plants at exactly the right levels. If you're not overfeeding, your ppms should stay in check and drop at the same rate as your water levels. Actually, you will only see a 'drop' in ppms if you top off with plain water which obviously dilutes your res a little. 

I use DG's grow 7-9-5 and really like it.


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## DaGrapeApe (May 5, 2011)

Make sure with DG you use the Pro-Tekt. A friend of mine switched from AN to DG based on what I was telling him. He didn't use the Pro-tekt and his PH was slowly going down. He had to regularly add PH UP to his res. After adding Pro-tekt these problems vanished.


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## Trichy Bastard (May 7, 2011)

DaGrapeApe said:


> Make sure with DG you use the Pro-Tekt. A friend of mine switched from AN to DG based on what I was telling him. He didn't use the Pro-tekt and his PH was slowly going down. He had to regularly add PH UP to his res. After adding Pro-tekt these problems vanished.


Yes GrapeApe- it's specifically the silica. You could add silica to any good quality nute and it should stabilize the ph- I just wrote a whole journal entry about silica if u wanna see, check it out. That being said- 20 years ago I enjoyed the same DynaGrow homebrewer does now- and it was the best back then- apparently nothing has changed. I wonder why these new and inferior companies have tried to reinvent the wheel, just to fall short and cost much more.


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## Trichy Bastard (May 8, 2011)

HB- I was curious what your feeding schedule was for veg. You have put down some great reference points for me in post 155 or so about everything else. BTW- I am probably going ot have to add another way to feed besides the pure fog- I read enough contradictory info to change my mind. But I am going to do the next closest relative and add true high pressure aero- I wouldn't have gone that direction until I stumbled upon a cool cheap reptile misting system that perfectly fits the bill for what we need here. I may have to go lighter on the feeding than you since the fog/aero purports to burn at normal levels due to increased availability to the plants- but I'd like to use your ratios and numbers as a baseline since you have done all the work and get excellent results.


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## homebrewer (May 8, 2011)

Trichy Bastard said:


> HB- I was curious what your feeding schedule was for veg. You have put down some great reference points for me in post 155 or so about everything else.


 Vegging is easy. 4-4.5mls of Grow (7-9-5) and 4-5mls of Protekt per gallon. Maybe bigger vegging plants could use up to 5mls of grow per gallon? I don't allow mine to get that big in veg because I don't have room for 5 foot tall flowering plants at day 30.


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## Trichy Bastard (May 8, 2011)

homebrewer said:


> Vegging is easy. 4-4.5mls of Grow (7-9-5) and 4-5mls of Protekt per gallon. Maybe bigger vegging plants could use up to 5mls of grow per gallon? I don't allow mine to get that big in veg because I don't have room for 5 foot tall flowering plants at day 30.


Thank you sir... You're a gentleman and a horticultural scholar...  I'm having some suspected root rot issues from when my res got too hot- gonna post in the help thread...


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## fallinprince (May 8, 2011)

trichy no need to leave the thread man Actually if you read back a couple pages hornedfrog was talking about H202 thats what you need to fix the root rot problems


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## OG18nmyBowl (May 8, 2011)

Great Thread again HB im a newbie and been using DG and LOVE it! Pro Tek and thankyou for the info on adding the grow during bloom that totally resolved my bleaching problem no more YELLOW!!!! HB Much Rep Smoke on My Friend!!!!!


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## Trichy Bastard (May 8, 2011)

fallinprince said:


> trichy no need to leave the thread man Actually if you read back a couple pages hornedfrog was talking about H202 thats what you need to fix the root rot problems


Thanks fallinprince. That's what I've been trying- but even at fairly high doses it seems to not be resolving the issue. I posted a new thread in the growing problems area, with pics and exactly what my situation is. www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/430039-aero-grow-babies-suspected-root.html


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## Trichy Bastard (May 9, 2011)

Hey, HomeBrewer- sorry I've taken interest in helping you with your spider mite issue- but for all you've given to this site- I'd hope to be able to give something back. Here are natural spidermite predator mites- another safe solution I suppose... http://www.greenandclean.ca/spider-mite-predators.html


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## Johan (May 9, 2011)

i heard for spidermites, you just mix some neem oil with water, and spray the foilage. its kinda hard to do that in flowering though..


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## homebrewer (May 9, 2011)

Trichy Bastard said:


> Hey, HomeBrewer- sorry I've taken interest in helping you with your spider mite issue- but for all you've given to this site- I'd hope to be able to give something back. Here are natural spidermite predator mites- another safe solution I suppose... http://www.greenandclean.ca/spider-mite-predators.html


 I wouldn't call it an issue, they're just always around. I stay on top of it pretty well but I'm beginning to think that total irradiation is a fantasy at this point as these guys have been here for years. Thanks for the link.


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## fallinprince (May 9, 2011)

Id Love to see you do the bene bugs method. it would be interesting to see if it COULD completely eat all the bugs. Maybe get some bug food to go with so you can have friendly bugs all the time? Plus thinking about it... lady bugs would make for an interesting wheres waldo in every picture


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## Trichy Bastard (May 9, 2011)

Yes- me too. As a used to be bartender- I've bought alot of drinks for people in the past- but for some reason, I would just love to buy a batch of beneficial mites for homebrewer heh... He'd have to do the documenting, but he's quite good at it. And he would stand to rid himself of about the last thing that complicates his grows. Well- what do you think man- can I send you a box of mites and have it not be offensive hehehe.


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## DaGrapeApe (May 11, 2011)

So, homebrewer... I've been using the Dyna-gro Bloom, Pro-tekt, and Veg. Would you recommend adding the Mag pro as a bloom booster or do you feel the Bloom/protekt is sufficent?


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## homebrewer (May 11, 2011)

DaGrapeApe said:


> So, homebrewer... I've been using the Dyna-gro Bloom, Pro-tekt, and Veg. Would you recommend adding the Mag pro as a bloom booster or do you feel the Bloom/protekt is sufficent?


I use magpro in hydro but am too lazy to use it in dirt. The plants don't seem to be missing it in dirt, even with RO water.


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## bigsourD (May 13, 2011)

homebrewer said:


> I use magpro in hydro but am too lazy to use it in dirt. The plants don't seem to be missing it in dirt, even with RO water.


Why is it the lazier you get, the better your pot is? wtf


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## homebrewer (May 13, 2011)

bigsourD said:


> Why is it the lazier you get, the better your pot is? wtf


 I think keeping it simple lowers the margin for error.


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## fallinprince (May 15, 2011)

View attachment 1602124(white widow pictured on the right)

So my White widow plants are developing a little yellowing. Any ideas what the issue could be? 

Completed a Soup change (i might have waited a little long to change)

but im still curious what issue is being shown ( ph5.8 ) temperature is a little high around 81


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## homebrewer (May 15, 2011)

fallinprince said:


> View attachment 1602124(white widow pictured on the right)
> 
> So my White widow plants are developing a little yellowing. Any ideas what the issue could be?
> 
> ...


 How much of each product are you giving them per gallon?


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## bigsourD (May 15, 2011)

homebrewer said:


> I think keeping it simple lowers the margin for error.


that is definitely true


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## fallinprince (May 17, 2011)

im using about 3ml of Dyna-grow 2.5 protekt 1ml of magpro deluted/maintained at roughly 550tds. Im not worried for my plants so much as im curious whats short so i could calibrate topping the res off. Ps as of 3 days later i have alot of new growth showing no signs of problems


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## homebrewer (May 17, 2011)

fallinprince said:


> im using about 3ml of Dyna-grow 2.5 protekt 1ml of magpro deluted/maintained at roughly 550tds. Im not worried for my plants so much as im curious whats short so i could calibrate topping the res off. Ps as of 3 days later i have alot of new growth showing no signs of problems


 If you see them eating away at that ppm, just top off with some bloom formula to bring your ppm back up. That's what's brilliant about DynaGro, a single bottle of their base nutrient is short on nothing.


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## Trichy Bastard (May 18, 2011)

fallinprince said:


> View attachment 1602124(white widow pictured on the right)
> 
> So my White widow plants are developing a little yellowing. Any ideas what the issue could be?
> 
> ...


I have root rot fresh on my mind- so check for that... Won't hurt to toss a lil peroxide in there and see if they perk up... 81 seems a little high and could definitely put you in questionable territory... FYI- the main symptoms would look like a nute deficiency and stunted growth (if you can't see the roots turning brown). How often do you flood?


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## gdahustla (Jun 1, 2011)

fallinprince said:


> im using about 3ml of Dyna-grow 2.5 protekt 1ml of magpro deluted/maintained at roughly 550tds. Im not worried for my plants so much as im curious whats short so i could calibrate topping the res off. Ps as of 3 days later i have alot of new growth showing no signs of problems


Hi friend. Great read homebrewer iv learnt so much from this journal and respect you to the highest man lol im in a hydro nft recirculating system and was going to buy "rhino skin" which is the rip off AN equivalent to protekt but due to this post have decided to go with this product instead. I just wondered how many ml per litre you recommend I use throughout my grow. Im in a 60l tank.

the bottle says 0.5tsp per litre which is equal to 5ml per litre. is this too much?


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## homebrewer (Jun 1, 2011)

gdahustla said:


> Hi friend. Great read homebrewer iv learnt so much from this journal and respect you to the highest man lol im in a hydro nft recirculating system and was going to buy "rhino skin" which is the rip off AN equivalent to protekt but due to this post have decided to go with this product instead. I just wondered how many ml per litre you recommend I use throughout my grow. Im in a 60l tank.
> 
> the bottle says 0.5tsp per litre which is equal to 5ml per litre. is this too much?


 5mls per gallon or 1.25mls per litre works great.


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## DaGrapeApe (Jun 1, 2011)

I always use 4 to 5 ml per gallon of Pro-tekt.


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## gdahustla (Jun 3, 2011)

thanks homebrewer, that's great. ur the man!


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## jamesking (Jun 7, 2011)

homebrewer said:


> DG is a great 'set it and forget it' nutrient. I only check my pH every other day and I only check it because I top off with plain water. GH was never that stable for me.
> 
> In regards to ppm, that will always fluctuate unless you're feeding your plants at exactly the right levels. If you're not overfeeding, your ppms should stay in check and drop at the same rate as your water levels. Actually, you will only see a 'drop' in ppms if you top off with plain water which obviously dilutes your res a little.
> 
> I use DG's grow 7-9-5 and really like it.


I understand the PPM fluctuations a little, but maybe you can elaborate a bit. After feeding, the rez water level will go down but the ppm will stay the same. Is that good? Should I top off the water every time BEFORE feeding? 

Also, I'm feeding twice a day. Rockwool. Does feeding more often give better yield?


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## homebrewer (Jun 7, 2011)

jamesking said:


> After feeding, the rez water level will go down but the ppm will stay the same. Is that good?


That's good assuming you're feeding at a ppm your plants enjoy.



> Should I top off the water every time BEFORE feeding?


Depends how big your res is. Smaller reservoirs should be topped off or at least monitored daily. Bigger ones may be ok left alone. Really depends where your ppm and pH are. 



> Also, I'm feeding twice a day. Rockwool. Does feeding more often give better yield?


You want to flood your rockwool so your plants stay hydrated. Flooding too much can lead to salt buildup issues in your medium OR root-rot. It's a balancing act. Two or three times daily with rockwool should be fine assuming you're not at 10% humidity and 95*.


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## 1nitrous (Jun 12, 2011)

homebrewer said:


> I remember reading that and I think it was in reference to the ammoniacal nitrogen and somewhere under 15% is desirable and since DG is below that, I think he was arguing that it was _intended_ for hydro, not soil? Myself and another on this forum are currently testing it in soil. All of our plants look fantastic thus far. But in regards to DG's pH stability, it's rock solid. My comment was more of an explanation as to why I've had to adjust it at all (just 4 times in nearly 2 months) and that was in all likelihood due to over-feeding. In contrast, I adjust the GH pH 4 times per _week_.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I know this is an older post and dumb question but are you using a recirculating system or a drain to waste system for your nute schedule?????


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## homebrewer (Jun 12, 2011)

1nitrous said:


> I know this is an older post and dumb question but are you using a recirculating system or a drain to waste system for your nute schedule?????


 That nute schedule is too strong as I don't feed over 900ppm or 1.3 EC for any of my strains. But to answer your question, it's a recirculating system.


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## hornedfrog2000 (Jun 13, 2011)

Is magpro pretty heavy in the N? I've never had plants in flower that look so green.


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## homebrewer (Jun 13, 2011)

hornedfrog2000 said:


> Is magpro pretty heavy in the N? I've never had plants in flower that look so green.


 I believe it's 2-15-4 so no, it's not heavy on the N.


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## 0011StealTH (Jun 13, 2011)

dumpster.


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## 1nitrous (Jun 13, 2011)

homebrewer said:


> That nute schedule is too strong as I don't feed over 900ppm or 1.3 EC for any of my strains. But to answer your question, it's a recirculating system.


Can you post your schedule that you use for soil feeding during veg and flower??? I have been following your post pretty closely but I must have missed it if you did post it already. Because I have switched over to the dyna-gro line now and I am having some Potassium and Iron deficiencies on a grow I am doing using coco/perlite in grow bags.


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## hogs (Jun 24, 2011)

I am usin 80 mls per 20 liters of water of dyna-gro was at first using 40, then 50 then 60 then jumped to 80 all seems ok, as I am also using Advance products side by side and with all products in I keep both around 1350 ppms for a comparison.....in flower


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## homebrewer (Jun 24, 2011)

hogs said:


> I am usin 80 mls per 20 liters of water of dyna-gro was at first using 40, then 50 then 60 then jumped to 80 all seems ok, as I am also using Advance products side by side and with all products in I keep both around 1350 ppms for a comparison.....in flower


 Is that 80mls of base nutrient into 20 litres???


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## fletchman (Jun 29, 2011)

homebrewer said:


> Is that 80mls of base nutrient into 20 litres???


 
I think that would torch a plant


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## Illumination (Jun 29, 2011)

Wow this thread is still moving along eh? Hello my awesome friend

Namaste'


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## homebrewer (Jun 30, 2011)

Illumination said:


> Wow this thread is still moving along eh? Hello my awesome friend
> 
> Namaste'


 You've been gone for a good while now, I don't blame you


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## Illumination (Jun 30, 2011)

homebrewer said:


> You've been gone for a good while now, I don't blame you


and will not be around very much at all...but there are people here thast still matter to me so basically goin round saying high and attempting to share some wisdom here and there...no more drama though..first sign of it and I am outta here...and had made them ban me then a good friend took it upon themselves to unban me with out my asking and then they informed me ....

Come visit me at my new home more often...got some hydro dudes needing help and I do not know a thing about hydro except that you do!! lmao

Namaste'


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## reverof (Jul 7, 2011)

Homebrewer....
Hope you dont leave, if you do would love to know where you will call your home online if you choose one. You are a major reason why I came here.


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## hobart (Aug 2, 2011)

Medi 1 said:


> sure no worries,. sory, diodnt mean to clutter in here bud.
> 
> ya ok now i get what you mean animnal based...shrimp n crab arent animals so its not what i would have thought of for this. actualy not many of those are animals actualy.


I know this was posted a long time ago and that I shouldn't be bringing up old shit but I just had to let dippy here know as I hope others have that, Crabs and Shrimp are both animals my4th grade teacher told me so yesterday during science....


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## unohu69 (Oct 10, 2011)

hello HB, I have a question about DG nutes. I have protekt, grow, and neem oil (for DG products), superthrive, also foxfarm growbig. I am switching to DG after reading about your success with it. I was wondering if I can or even should mix any DG grow with protect & neem oil for a foliar spray (The neem oil instructions say to add either protekt, or dish detergent). And maybe how much would be good for say a regular 16oz spray bottle? 

If they shouldnt be mixed, can i mix a foliar spray from grow, could it be sprayed on before, after, or two totally separate days?

I was gonna use up the FF before busting open the DG bottle, but I may just use it on the aloe and spider plants.....

Thanx for your advice so far, I appreciate it. You deff seem to have your shit tuned in.


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## homebrewer (Oct 10, 2011)

unohu69 said:


> hello HB, I have a question about DG nutes. I have protekt, grow, and neem oil (for DG products), superthrive, also foxfarm growbig. I am switching to DG after reading about your success with it. I was wondering if I can or even should mix any DG grow with protect & neem oil for a foliar spray (The neem oil instructions say to add either protekt, or dish detergent). And maybe how much would be good for say a regular 16oz spray bottle?
> 
> If they shouldnt be mixed, can i mix a foliar spray from grow, could it be sprayed on before, after, or two totally separate days?
> 
> ...


 I've never seen the need to foliar feed. Use neem like you'd normally use it but save the grow and protekt for the roots


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## unohu69 (Oct 10, 2011)

thanx for the super quick reply. The DG neem oil I have, does say to add a little bit of protekt, OR dish detergent. What do you think? i know people spray a dish soap mix for mites and things, but personally, I never liked doing it... Id rather use the neem&protekt over neem&soap i guess is what im saying. 

oh the neem instructions say the protekt, or soap, acts as an emulsifying agent... its my first time using neem. 

I also picked up some Serenade (mostly for outdoors, mold kikd my ass this year)


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## homebrewer (Oct 10, 2011)

unohu69 said:


> thanx for the super quick reply. The DG neem oil I have, does say to add a little bit of protekt, OR dish detergent. What do you think? i know people spray a dish soap mix for mites and things, but personally, I never liked doing it... Id rather use the neem&protekt over neem&soap i guess is what im saying.
> 
> oh the neem instructions say the protekt, or soap, acts as an emulsifying agent... its my first time using neem.
> 
> I also picked up some Serenade (mostly for outdoors, mold kikd my ass this year)


I use dish soap actually, just a dash. I suppose protekt could work as it has a 'slimey' feel to it, but i'll probably never use it in that way.


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## unohu69 (Oct 10, 2011)

OK, I'll deff take this all into consideration. I guess psychologically, dish soap always seems harsh to me. I mean I use it when I want to deep clean a car before applying a fresh coat of wax. but i understand a drop in a bottle probly wouldnt hurt. I have heard that you need to spray with regular water after at some time so as to help rinse off the soap, do you think that is true?


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## hornedfrog2000 (Oct 10, 2011)

dish soap like dawn is biodegradable, and pretty harmless... for the most part.


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## homebrewer (Oct 10, 2011)

unohu69 said:


> OK, I'll deff take this all into consideration. I guess psychologically, dish soap always seems harsh to me. I mean I use it when I want to deep clean a car before applying a fresh coat of wax. but i understand a drop in a bottle probly wouldnt hurt. I have heard that you need to spray with regular water after at some time so as to help rinse off the soap, do you think that is true?


 A few drops of dish soap into a pint of water isn't going to hurt your plants.


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## unohu69 (Oct 10, 2011)

excellent, thank you both...


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## coconut123 (Oct 13, 2011)

Two words...."Holy Shit"...lol First of all...Props to you HomeBrewer for this whole thread and you sticking with it, giving great info, and just being a real nice guy. Little backround, I've been growing for 18 months, went from DWC to E/F, to now coco in 4gal pots. Flora Nova, Switched to H&G 6 months ago... Not liking H&G base nutes so far. So I woke up this morning with the thought of switching to FloraDuo from G.H. as my base nutes anlong with the KB liquid and powder I've been using. Then I find this thread (thus the Holy Shit remark from above). So just read all 49 pages in one sitting (including beer and pee breaks) and now thinking of going DG. Any thoughts on using it in Coco? They say treat Coco like Hydro as far as the nutrients go, so I think I'll start with that. hmmmm, so using the DG line, can/should I still use the drip clean and Roots exl from (H&G) and continue with the KoolBloom liquid and powder from (GH)?  Thanks man.


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## homebrewer (Oct 13, 2011)

coconut123 said:


> Two words...."Holy Shit"...lol First of all...Props to you HomeBrewer for this whole thread and you sticking with it, giving great info, and just being a real nice guy. Little backround, I've been growing for 18 months, went from DWC to E/F, to now coco in 4gal pots. Flora Nova, Switched to H&G 6 months ago... Not liking H&G base nutes so far. So I woke up this morning with the thought of switching to FloraDuo from G.H. as my base nutes anlong with the KB liquid and powder I've been using. Then I find this thread (thus the Holy Shit remark from above). So just read all 49 pages in one sitting (including beer and pee breaks) and now thinking of going DG. Any thoughts on using it in Coco? They say treat Coco like Hydro as far as the nutrients go, so I think I'll start with that. hmmmm, so using the DG line, can/should I still use the drip clean and Roots exl from (H&G) and continue with the KoolBloom liquid and powder from (GH)? Thanks man.


 I definitely would skip the koolbloom and drip clean. I'm not sure what roots exl is since the only time I care about roots is when I'm cloning (and keeping them clean when they're established of course). I've never used coco but I can't imagine it's too far off from promix, minus how quick coco dries out. Anyways, I'd feed at about .7 EC max in flower and see how the plants look. A little DG goes a long way. Just make sure you have plenty of runoff and your medium is free of excess salt buildup. I think you'll like the price, simplicity and performance of Dynagro. Don't be afraid to try E&F again if DG works out well for you.


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## unohu69 (Oct 13, 2011)

wow, good to see this thread is going strong.
I have a Q about DG again, when using protekt,and grow. do you ph the water after adding protekt, then add the grow, or ph after both are in the water.

And I know the Protekt says its gonna raise the ph, but normal for me after adding foxfarm grow big is 6.8. With the DG nutes, i have had to add 22-24 drops of ph down (in a gallon) to get it to an acceptable level or close to 6.8.I did this slowly over 14 hr period checking ph every hr or so, with a air pump bubbling the solution. Is that normal? my tap water tests out almost perfect 7, and its extremly low ppm around 35ppm or so(this coming from my buddys digital meters ), im using test tube and drops at the moment.


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## homebrewer (Oct 13, 2011)

unohu69 said:


> wow, good to see this thread is going strong.
> I have a Q about DG again, when using protekt,and grow. do you ph the water after adding protekt, then add the grow, or ph after both are in the water.


I pH after all nutrients are mixed in.


> And I know the Protekt says its gonna raise the ph, but normal for me after adding foxfarm grow big is 6.8. With the DG nutes, i have had to add 22-24 drops of ph down (in a gallon) to get it to an acceptable level or close to 6.8.I did this slowly over 14 hr period checking ph every hr or so, with a air pump bubbling the solution. Is that normal? my tap water tests out almost perfect 7, and its extremly low ppm around 35ppm or so(this coming from my buddys digital meters ), im using test tube and drops at the moment.


Protekt along with DG base nutes when mixed in 'average tap water' should come to somewhere in the 6's? pH down to around 5.8 for hydro or mid 6's for dirt. Don't make it harder than it has to be .


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## hornedfrog2000 (Oct 13, 2011)

I just put 2ml of grow, 1ml of mag-pro, 3ml of pro-tekt, and it came out around 6.5ish. lowered the ph to 5.8ish, and it hasn't moved in a week.


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## unohu69 (Oct 13, 2011)

j new to ph'ing my water, i usually let mother nature do her thing, but I got the ok for two patients, so now im trying to dial in a quick in soil setup to get a couple mommys going for a clone supply, maybe a few crossbreeding experiments. im trying to keep everything small as possible right now till im better prepared, just dont want to kill my best clones before i get to use them.

I really do appreciate the advice. i dont shun intelligence.


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## BettaBudda (Oct 13, 2011)

dish detergent acts as a dispersant to disrupt the surface tension of the water. I think it helps with absorption by making the water not bead up and drip off as easily.


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## Uncle Ben (Oct 25, 2011)

> What ratio/ppm do they suggest as a good NPK makeup for soil gardening?


Since potroast took away my PM privileges for linking to Riddleme, thought I'd answer your recent PM here. I have never asked a DynaGro tech what they'd recommend. I assume they know that I know enough about plant nutrition not to have to ask. I like their Foliage Pro.

Good luck,
UB


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## homebrewer (Oct 25, 2011)

Uncle Ben said:


> Since potroast took away my PM privileges for linking to Riddleme, thought I'd answer your recent PM here. I have never asked a DynaGro tech what they'd recommend. I assume they know that I know enough about plant nutrition not to have to ask. I like their Foliage Pro.
> 
> Good luck,
> UB


Thanks for getting back with me. Your post below implies that Texas A&M has a benchmark to compare your soil to which is why they said not to add any more phosphorus. Do you happen to know what the ideal makeup is or are they saying not to add more phosphorus because it does not readily leach from the soil and N does? 




> Speaking of maintaining 'balance', I just received a soil analysis back from Texas A&M on my veggie garden. I now have a guide, _a nutritional marker_, as to where to go with plant nutrition as is laid out by university schooled experts, not shysters....... and I quote from the report "do not add phosphorous for at least 5 years in any form, manure or otherwise, only nitrogen." FWIW, the report says that my N is 54 ppm, P is 197 ppm and K is 618 ppm or a real world NPK value of 0.5 - 2 - 6. Time to hit it with some UAN (urea/ammonium nitrate), 33-0-0. It's only natural.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Uncle Ben (Oct 25, 2011)

A soil analysis is indeed a benchmark, a marker of where you are now so you know where you need to go for maximum plant health, vigor and production. I don't know what their reasons were other than the NPK is out of whack. Bottom line, I've been correcting with ammonium sulfate and yesterday a UAN drench, which is a 33-0-0 and the plants responded quickly with improved color and vigor.


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## blazedgeek (Dec 6, 2011)

whats up homebrew thanks for this thread i have learned quite a bit as i just finished up reading and will be switching up to DG.! now im of to read about your AK-47 & great white


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## beans davis (Dec 11, 2011)

Hey homebrew badass thread man.
Every question i could a had about d.g. & ebb & flow has been asked and answered several times in depth.
Im in week 3 of veg.Im gonna follow your #s on nutrients.

Thanks a lot man


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## GHOPZZ (Dec 18, 2011)

Hi Homebrewer, I just got some dyna-gro and bloom nutes for my next grow. I have been using organic teas for awhile now and I think its time for a change. I am a soil grower, my soil medium is 2:1 Promix-BX to Foxfarm Ocean Forest Soil with extra perlite. I was seeing if you could give me a guideline to start with these nutes( in ML and how much weekly i should nute) this would be a big help and much appreciated. The strain im going with is C99 and vegging it for 2 months.


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## homebrewer (Dec 18, 2011)

GHOPZZ said:


> Hi Homebrewer, I just got some dyna-gro and bloom nutes for my next grow. I have been using organic teas for awhile now and I think its time for a change. I am a soil grower, my soil medium is 2:1 Promix-BX to Foxfarm Ocean Forest Soil with extra perlite. I was seeing if you could give me a guideline to start with these nutes( in ML and how much weekly i should nute) this would be a big help and much appreciated. The strain im going with is C99 and vegging it for 2 months.


Will you be using tap or RO water? If tap, any idea what the ppm is?


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## lerster (Dec 18, 2011)

Hi HB do I need to use Magpro if I use tap water, my tap water is about 100 ppm and also whats a good ppm to start feeding clones with? do you raise the food by 200 ppm every week?


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## homebrewer (Dec 19, 2011)

lerster said:


> Hi HB do I need to use Magpro if I use tap water, my tap water is about 100 ppm and also whats a good ppm to start feeding clones with? do you raise the food by 200 ppm every week?


If I had your water and you were talking about hydro, I'd use about 1ml per gallon of magpro. Is it _needed_? Probably not, but I like the dose of magnesium and sulfur it brings to the table. 

Clones? I can tell you that no matter what medium I'm using, I'd never 'raise the food' based on the number of weeks that have passed.


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## lerster (Dec 19, 2011)

homebrewer said:


> If I had your water and you were talking about hydro, I'd use about 1ml per gallon of magpro. Is it _needed_? Probably not, but I like the dose of magnesium and sulfur it brings to the table.
> 
> Clones? I can tell you that no matter what medium I'm using, I'd never 'raise the food' based on the number of weeks that have passed.


Thanks Hb I have been really learning a lot because of your journals, then whats a good ppm to start with from just rooted clones? I know DG is very strong stuff so I dont want to burn them to death


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## homebrewer (Dec 19, 2011)

lerster said:


> Thanks Hb I have been really learning a lot because of your journals, then whats a good ppm to start with from just rooted clones? I know DG is very strong stuff so I dont want to burn them to death


Maybe 150 ppm in dirt and 400ppm in hydro on the .7 scale?


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## GHOPZZ (Dec 20, 2011)

I will be using spring water and i will be growing in soil


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## homebrewer (Dec 20, 2011)

GHOPZZ said:


> I will be using spring water and i will be growing in soil


That doesn't help me much. I'd say just watch your plants and feed them no more than a total of 3mls per gallon of grow or bloom or a combo of both. Cut that in half for small plants.

I use RO and promix. The only food the plants get are from me, that takes the guess work out of feeding as your spring water and soil will both be supplying minerals your plants can use.


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## lerster (Dec 21, 2011)

homebrewer said:


> Maybe 150 ppm in dirt and 400ppm in hydro on the .7 scale?


im using this meter http://homeharvest.com/hydroponicectestmeters.htm how do i know which is .5 or .7?


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## KingIV20 (Dec 21, 2011)

lerster said:


> im using this meter http://homeharvest.com/hydroponicectestmeters.htm how do i know which is .5 or .7?


Lerster, there are two different meters on that page, which are you going to get? The one I have is pretty much like the longer stick one (the first one on the page), but a different company. Though, the third one is cheaper and should still get the job done for you.
I got mine used from a dude off craigslist. I'd recommend checking that or amazon or something first cus you'll probably find a better price.
Just a thought.


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## GHOPZZ (Dec 21, 2011)

Homebrewer will i be ok nuting once a week at 2-3ml during vegging phase? also should i add Dyna-Gro Protekt once a week at 1-2ml during vegging? and do you use Dyna-Gro Mag Pro during flowering for a bloom booster? if so at what weeks?


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## homebrewer (Dec 21, 2011)

lerster said:


> im using this meter http://homeharvest.com/hydroponicectestmeters.htm how do i know which is .5 or .7?


http://www.gardenscure.com/420/hydroponics/96521-printable-ec-ppm-cf-conversion-chart.html





GHOPZZ said:


> Homebrewer will i be ok nuting once a week at 2-3ml during vegging phase?


I don't know, I don't use your soil or spring water. Even though that's not what I said to do in response to your last post, do what makes your plants happy. 


> also should i add Dyna-Gro Protekt once a week at 1-2ml during vegging?


I use protekt from start to finish at every watering, it balances the pH. Add it first to a gallon, then plant food. Use enough so it balances your final pH to the mid 6's. 


> and do you use Dyna-Gro Mag Pro during flowering for a bloom booster? if so at what weeks?


I don't use magpro in the dirt. It's highly concentrated and you'd only need like 1/2ml per gallon if you'd need it at all. Bloom offers plenty of P and K and you're not using RO so you probably don't need it.


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## lerster (Dec 21, 2011)

homebrewer said:


> http://www.gardenscure.com/420/hydroponics/96521-printable-ec-ppm-cf-conversion-chart.html
> 
> sorry HB i still dont get it...


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## lerster (Dec 22, 2011)

lerster said:


> homebrewer said:
> 
> 
> > http://www.gardenscure.com/420/hydroponics/96521-printable-ec-ppm-cf-conversion-chart.html
> ...


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## lerster (Dec 22, 2011)

lerster said:


> lerster said:
> 
> 
> > ok nvm, on the stick its says x 500 or x 700 doh!
> ...


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## lerster (Dec 25, 2011)

lerster said:


> lerster said:
> 
> 
> > so what is a .442 conversion?
> ...


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## homebrewer (Dec 25, 2011)

lerster said:


> hey HB another question, do you feel the need to use a bloom booster? if you do can you recommend one?


I'd recommend you read this thread and the others in my signature. Happy holidays!


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## beans davis (Dec 27, 2011)

Hey Homebrewer,thanks alot for all the help with DG and ECs(ppms)
Your #s are right on for my plants,they're looking great & my ph never moves with DG.
Thanks again for doing all the work & posting it for us.


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## infrared (Dec 28, 2011)

Homebrewer,

Thanks for all your work on this thread. I've read it twice (three times? ) -- once for fun, and again tonight while taking notes along the way.

I'm DONE with Fox Farm soil and nutes, and am thrilled to see that DynaGro has all the nutrients I'll need so I don't have to muck around with CalMag and a bunch of other unnecessary junk. I don't have enough time to mix up a batch of Super Soil and have it 'cooked' and ready to go by the time I start my next cycle, so I plan to use your soil method and then perhaps test it against an organic concentrate mix next time around.

Just a couple questions so I can get off on the right foot:

-I read you say a couple times that I won't need MagPro in Sunshine #4. Is that because there's enough Ca & Mg in Grow/Bloom?
-I also thought I saw you were using SS#4 early on, then I saw a mention of adding vermiculite to Mix #8 and most recently that you have switched to Promix? All of these are soilless, right? Inert, so that you can maintain absolute control on the nutrient intake?
-Also in that recent Promix reference, you mentioned RO water, which IIRC, you'd said you didn't use earlier. I don't use RO water at the moment, but it is pretty soft at around 40 PPMs. Any chance I'd need MagPro because of this, or am I just over-complicating things?

Thanks again for such a thorough investigation!


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## homebrewer (Dec 28, 2011)

infrared said:


> I read you say a couple times that I won't need MagPro in Sunshine #4. Is that because there's enough Ca & Mg in Grow/Bloom?


I use RO and don't use calmag ever and I don't have issues in promix or SS#4. Magpro is highly concentrated so you'd only need maybe .5mls per gallon? Too small a dose to justify measuring that out for each and every gallon. 



> -I also thought I saw you were using SS#4 early on, then I saw a mention of adding vermiculite to Mix #8 and most recently that you have switched to Promix? All of these are soilless, right? Inert, so that you can maintain absolute control on the nutrient intake?


They're all pretty much the same thing. I always add vermiculite and perlite to my dirt. And yes, they're all neutral mediums if-you-will. The only food my plants get are what I'm giving them. I don't like surprises. 


> -Also in that recent Promix reference, you mentioned RO water, which IIRC, you'd said you didn't use earlier. I don't use RO water at the moment, but it is pretty soft at around 40 PPMs. Any chance I'd need MagPro because of this, or am I just over-complicating things?


My winter water at 330ppm caused me to switch to RO and once I saw how beautifully DG works with RO in both hydro and dirt, I just switched altogether. With RO in hydro, I think magpro is needed, or at least some mag additive whether it's 'sweet' or epsom salt or calmag.


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## infrared (Dec 29, 2011)

homebrewer said:


> I use RO and don't use calmag ever and I don't have issues in promix or SS#4.
> 
> . . .
> 
> With RO in hydro, I think magpro is needed, or at least some mag additive whether it's 'sweet' or epsom salt or calmag.


Thanks for getting back to me HB.

Can you help me understand what's different about something like Promix vs. hydro RE:magnesium? Is it because it's more available at a higher pH, so there's already enough in the DG for soil plants?


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## homebrewer (Dec 29, 2011)

infrared said:


> Thanks for getting back to me HB.
> 
> Can you help me understand what's different about something like Promix vs. hydro RE:magnesium? Is it because it's more available at a higher pH, so there's already enough in the DG for soil plants?


Maybe I worded that wrong in that I didn't mean to imply the base formulas are short on magnesium. I should have said _Magpro is helpful in hydro with RO water_. I've only done one run with _just_ bloom and protekt and the plants looked fine. I happen to like the sulfur content of Magpro so that's why I use it in hydro. Between hydro and promix, the needs of the plant should be pretty much the same, though I've noticed that in promix I need to use more 'grow' to keep the plants green during flower than in hydro. In dirt, I go about 50/50 with grow and bloom. In hydro, it's more like 30/70 with grow and bloom. My ratio of grow-to-bloom changes as the weeks progress in both dirt and hydro but in the dirt, I've already premixed grow and bloom in their concentrated form in a ratio that makes things easy for me.


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## beans davis (Dec 31, 2011)

H.B. and growers using Dyna Gro
If your ph in your rez has changed DO NOT ADJUST like I did.Check your tds meter.
My meter was going bad & not reading correctly.I figured that out a couple of hours after adjusting ph so i used the add drops to sample & go by the samples color.That was yesterday,new batteries today and my ph is dead nut on 5.8. after a small adjustment.


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## GreenGiant49 (Dec 31, 2011)

beans davis said:


> H.B. and growers using Dyna Gro
> If your ph in your rez has changed DO NOT ADJUST like I did.Check your tds meter.
> My meter was going bad & not reading correctly.I figured that out a couple of hours after adjusting ph so i used the add drops to sample & go by the samples color.That was yesterday,new batteries today and my ph is dead nut on 5.8. after a small adjustment.


I just switched from Gen Hydro to Dyna Gro 2 days ago. Still to early to tell if I will like it, but it sure is easy!! and, I have not had to do anything with PH yet either, which is a real good sign, and so far PPM has been very stable too

I was starting fall into the trap of buying way too many additives. Chasing the elusive perfect nutrient blend. Trouble was I was not happy with what my plant was doing. Unstable PH, Unstable PPM, spotty leaves, wrinkled leaves, distortions

Hoping the DG will help.


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## beans davis (Jan 1, 2012)

GreenGiant49 said:


> I just switched from Gen Hydro to Dyna Gro 2 days ago. Still to early to tell if I will like it, but it sure is easy!! and, I have not had to do anything with PH yet either, which is a real good sign, and so far PPM has been very stable too
> 
> I was starting fall into the trap of buying way too many additives. Chasing the elusive perfect nutrient blend. Trouble was I was not happy with what my plant was doing. Unstable PH, Unstable PPM, spotty leaves, wrinkled leaves, distortions
> 
> Hoping the DG will help.


GreenGiant i was having the same problems as u i was useing A.N. products.Dyna-Gro is treating me right,super clean and easy to use.
Don't go by the D.G. feeding chart,it's way to hot.I'm in 2nd week of bloom at 450ppm .5 conversion.I don't think i will need to go above 1ec.
My wife grows a lot of potted plants indoors & out and her family always has a vegetable garden.I showed her my plants last night and she freaked, she said she had never seen any kind of plants so green and healthy.She said they almost looked like plastic plants they are so green.
I think you're gonna love dyna-gro.


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## GreenGiant49 (Jan 1, 2012)

beans davis said:


> GreenGiant i was having the same problems as u i was useing A.N. products.Dyna-Gro is treating me right,super clean and easy to use.
> Don't go by the D.G. feeding chart,it's way to hot.I'm in 2nd week of bloom at 450ppm .5 conversion.I don't think i will need to go above 1ec.
> My wife grows a lot of potted plants indoors & out and her family always has a vegetable garden.I showed her my plants last night and she freaked, she said she had never seen any kind of plants so green and healthy.She said they almost looked like plastic plants they are so green.
> I think you're gonna love dyna-gro.


Thanks for the reply! Especially for the tip on nute strength! I will certainly do that from now on as the first few days it has been in the 850 range and NOT dropping daily. I think this is indicating a too high mix. Ill cut it down the next couple of days by adding plain h20. 

I sure am looking forward to having her eat light clean food. I sure look forward to seeing my plant recover as yours did!


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## beans davis (Jan 2, 2012)

GreenGiant49 said:


> Thanks for the reply! Especially for the tip on nute strength! I will certainly do that from now on as the first few days it has been in the 850 range and NOT dropping daily. I think this is indicating a too high mix. Ill cut it down the next couple of days by adding plain h20.
> 
> I sure am looking forward to having her eat light clean food. I sure look forward to seeing my plant recover as yours did!


I was on 3rd week of veg at 500ppm & getting yellow leaves HB told me no higher than 400ppm .7 conversion so i cut back to 280ppm .5 i thought this was to low but i was wrong.Follow HBs #s and you should be right on.Tomorrow i will start week 2 bloom i will keep you updated and try to post some pics.I have 5 hash plants and ch9 jack33 1x and critical33 1x.


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## GreenGiant49 (Jan 2, 2012)

beans davis said:


> I was on 3rd week of veg at 500ppm & getting yellow leaves HB told me no higher than 400ppm .7 conversion so i cut back to 280ppm .5 i thought this was to low but i was wrong.Follow HBs #s and you should be right on.Tomorrow i will start week 2 bloom i will keep you updated and try to post some pics.I have 5 hash plants and ch9 jack33 1x and critical33 1x.


My girl was very thirsty last night. She needed a full gallon of water. I am DWC with 3 gallon res in a 5 gallon pail. That is the most she has ever needed in a one day period. PPM was at 900, which appears to be way too high based on current thinking. I put in plain water 1 gallon and it only brought the ppms down to 700.

I think I will drain half the res this afternoon and put in plain water to try to get the ppms way down.

Ill keep you posted on how it goes. 

Thanks Beans and HB for this thread.


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## GreenGiant49 (Jan 2, 2012)

GreenGiant49 said:


> My girl was very thirsty last night. She needed a full gallon of water. I am DWC with 3 gallon res in a 5 gallon pail. That is the most she has ever needed in a one day period. PPM was at 900, which appears to be way too high based on current thinking. I put in plain water 1 gallon and it only brought the ppms down to 700.
> 
> I think I will drain half the res this afternoon and put in plain water to try to get the ppms way down.
> 
> ...


Ok, the drain and refresh with 2.5 gals of plain h20 got the ppms down to about 400! Finally! Ill keep them at that level and see how she does. It certainly is better to be lower than higher in nutes.


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## OldLuck (Jan 2, 2012)

Homebrewer, can you take a look at my plants and see if they are watered to much. I am flooding twice as long as you and everyone else. Also, can I pm you with a few questions? Thanks for all your info in all of your journals.


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## tomat0 (Jan 2, 2012)

Homebrewer, for lack of advertising and such, DG is quite impressive, isn't it? Simple and straight to the point.
Fortunately for the purpose of this forum, your patience to log and post this grow provides quite an educational and relatively "controlled" informational reference.

I was going to message you but I don't have full forum privileges due to post counts.


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## homebrewer (Jan 2, 2012)

tomat0 said:


> Homebrewer, for lack of advertising and such, DG is quite impressive, isn't it? Simple and straight to the point.
> Fortunately for the purpose of this forum, your patience to log and post this grow provides quite an educational and relatively "controlled" informational reference.
> 
> I was going to message you but I don't have full forum privileges due to post counts.


Dyna-Gro is easy to use, clean, affordable, highly concentrated, pH stable, yields heavy, and grows a fantastic product. Once I realized that anything of any true importance to a plant can be found in the guaranteed analysis, my work-load and monthly bill at the hydro shop dropped significantly. I truly believe it to be the best fertilizer on the market, no question about it. And once the nutritional needs of the plant are taken care of, we can then work on creating a better environment, or spending more time preventing pests, or thinking of ways to improve efficiency.


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## homebrewer (Jan 2, 2012)

I was asked about this product in the past and had never used it so I couldn't comment. When taking cuttings, I found that superthrive and maybe 1/2ml per gallon of bloom formula worked just fine in my clone dome to get roots in about 12-14 days. And to be honest, I can't remember the last time I couldn't get a cutting to root so if my method isn't broken, why look for another product? 

About 2 months ago, I saw a bottle of KLN at a new store in my area and picked some up for maybe $8. I've used it for 4 rounds of cuttings now and have decided that I really like this product. I now not only see roots in 8-10 days, but I see more roots that are stronger and healthier. 

These are 10 days from being cut off the mother plant and are ready to move into some promix.


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## Samwell Seed Well (Jan 2, 2012)

whats kln? looks good!


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## Samwell Seed Well (Jan 2, 2012)

homebrewer said:


> Dyna-Gro is easy to use, clean, affordable, highly concentrated, pH stable, yields heavy, and grows a fantastic product. Once I realized that anything of any true importance to a plant can be found in the guaranteed analysis, my work-load and monthly bill at the hydro shop dropped significantly. I truly believe it to be the best fertilizer on the market, no question about it. And once the nutritional needs of the plant are taken care of, we can then work on creating a better environment, or spending more time preventing pests, or thinking of ways to improve efficiency.


i really want to try the stuff, what would i need for a coco run, and if its all i this thread ill just look and find it. Your buds look great and if the price is right i think i want to give this a try, the organics im runningright now are cheap as hell but yield wont be as good i hear, but bud will be great i hear . . . . .?


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## homebrewer (Jan 2, 2012)

Samwell Seed Well said:


> whats kln? looks good!


It's DynaGro's rooting product. Check their site for details.


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## tomat0 (Jan 2, 2012)

homebrewer said:


> Dyna-Gro is easy to use, clean, affordable, highly concentrated, pH stable, yields heavy, and grows a fantastic product. Once I realized that anything of any true importance to a plant can be found in the guaranteed analysis, my work-load and monthly bill at the hydro shop dropped significantly. I truly believe it to be the best fertilizer on the market, no question about it. And once the nutritional needs of the plant are taken care of, we can then work on creating a better environment, or spending more time preventing pests, or thinking of ways to improve efficiency.


I initially intended to grow plants in with organic hydroponics, but when I figured it was virtually an oxymoron I had to find the next best solution.. so it's no surprise you've made those observations.
Even their superb customer service can provide quite a bit of information for those with questions.
I also have GH's Flora Series but it was more for experimenting. Now I have to figure what to do with 20+ gallons of colorful liquid.



homebrewer said:


> I was asked about this product in the past and had never used it so I couldn't comment. When taking cuttings, I found that superthrive and maybe 1/2ml per gallon of bloom formula worked just fine in my clone dome to get roots in about 12-14 days. And to be honest, I can't remember the last time I couldn't get a cutting to root so if my method isn't broken, why look for another product?
> 
> About 2 months ago, I saw a bottle of KLN at a new store in my area and picked some up for maybe $8. I've used it for 4 rounds of cuttings now and have decided that I really like this product. I now not only see roots in 8-10 days, but I see more roots that are stronger and healthier.


With the amount of products on the shelves of hydroponic stores, it's nice to know a company's entire line of products are efficiently effective. Medical patients can definitely benefit from the end-product.


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## Trichy Bastard (Jan 2, 2012)

Yes, and I am curious if anyone has tried the "Dyna-Rok II" growing medium. Cool part is that it's basically silica rock (diatomaceous earth) and slowly releases silica with no need for pro-tekt. I think a cheap alternative would be some oil spill cleanup from Napa or hardware store (make sure it says diatomaceous earth or silica)- it's the same thing and all comes from the same deposits in the earth's crust unless Dyna does some sort of additional processing. The dyna rock is spendy, and shipping probably makes it only worse considering it's' heavy- so I'd really love to try the oil-spill version.


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## neophyte101 (Jan 2, 2012)

homebrewer said:


> Dyna-Gro is easy to use, clean, affordable, highly concentrated, pH stable, yields heavy, and grows a fantastic product. Once I realized that anything of any true importance to a plant can be found in the guaranteed analysis, my work-load and monthly bill at the hydro shop dropped significantly. I truly believe it to be the best fertilizer on the market, no question about it. And once the nutritional needs of the plant are taken care of, we can then work on creating a better environment, or spending more time preventing pests, or thinking of ways to improve efficiency.


i hope you dont work for them because im sold


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## homebrewer (Jan 3, 2012)

neophyte101 said:


> i hope you dont work for them because im sold


DG isn't magic, you still need a certain level of competence with plants to grow a good product. I think when people reach that level, DG makes things pretty easy.


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## hogs (Jan 3, 2012)

HB, I use the KLN as well as protekt and some bloom as it says on the back of the KLN bottle...What do you use for Media when you put your clones in to root??? also do you just use the KLN or other stuff along with it for rooting??

Thanks


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## RD3 (Jan 3, 2012)

KLN is vary good stuff, and you are really helping a lot of people! Kudos to you HB. I found Dyna-Gro a year ago while i was just trying to simplify. Happy New Year!!!


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## homebrewer (Jan 3, 2012)

hogs said:


> HB, I use the KLN as well as protekt and some bloom as it says on the back of the KLN bottle...What do you use for Media when you put your clones in to root??? also do you just use the KLN or other stuff along with it for rooting??
> 
> Thanks


I use rapid rooter plugs and also use a little bloom formula with KLN, maybe 50ppm?


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## unohu69 (Jan 3, 2012)

Any idea what the shelf life of DG products might be? I bought a small 8oz bottle of grow, thinking I was only testing it. then I bought a 32 oz bottle of bloom and protek. these are going to last me a lot longer than i anticipated. right now storage temp is about 62*F, but come summer, avg temps wil be closer to 80.


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## tomat0 (Jan 3, 2012)

unohu69 said:


> Any idea what the shelf life of DG products might be? I bought a small 8oz bottle of grow, thinking I was only testing it. then I bought a 32 oz bottle of bloom and protek. these are going to last me a lot longer than i anticipated. right now storage temp is about 62*F, but come summer, avg temps wil be closer to 80.


Given the nature of the product, storage life should be several years if stored at a constant temperature. The major concern is that the super saturated solutions can become unstable due to wide temperature fluctuations.
Keep any solution in a cool and dark environment and avoid fluctuations.


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## brownbearclan (Jan 7, 2012)

Heya HB, thought I'd drop in and say hi. I'm still rocking an almost identical setup and have had great success every round. I wanted to confirm the awesome-sauce that is Dyna-Gro's K-L-N. I've used it for 2 rounds of cloning now, all with 100% success! I even compared it side by side with identical cuts using Rootek gel and the results were the same. All I do is soak my starter cubes in 5.5-5.8 water with 2.5ml/g of the K-L-N. Then I dome them (vented) for 2-3 days and mist daily with plain water, then after doming/misting stops, it's watering the cubes a teeny bit once a day for about a week with just more water and K-L-N mix untill the roots pop. =)


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## MrWheezy (Jan 8, 2012)

homebrewer said:


> That's almost the exact schedule I'm using except the feeding schedule I have doesn't take MagPro over 2.5mls which leaves the ppm around 1400? I don't really know, I don't have a TDS meter. Thanks for posting that, could be a reference point to tweak if I feel that one of my strains could handle more food. In the meantime, I'll stick with the schedule I have as the plants seem to be handling it just fine.


Hey Homebrewer, I've tried to read all 55 pages of this thread but I don't think I ever saw your exact feeding schedule anywhere. Would you mind posting full feeding schedule and any additives in one post? If not, no biggy, and thank you.


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## homebrewer (Jan 8, 2012)

MrWheezy said:


> Hey Homebrewer, I've tried to read all 55 pages of this thread but I don't think I ever saw your exact feeding schedule anywhere. Would you mind posting full feeding schedule and any additives in one post? If not, no biggy, and thank you.


Check out the DynaGro vs AN thread in my signature. I know I go over all that stuff in there.


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## Rushed (Jan 9, 2012)

Great thread, very good read.
I've been using botancare in an areo setup for a while now, It's been a great product. 
The only thing that seems to really be a pain in the ass is cleanup, (and mixing from so many differnt bottles.) the brown slime that it leaves behind. It takes a long time to get things sparkling.
I do remember you saying that dyna-gro is a clear product when mixed with very low salt build up.
What's your opinion on running it in an areo system.
Thanks for the great read and all your helpful thoughts. (My eyes hurt I finally got to the end, just haven't been able to pull myself away.)


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## homebrewer (Jan 9, 2012)

Rushed said:


> What's your opinion on running it in an areo system.
> Thanks for the great read and all your helpful thoughts. (My eyes hurt I finally got to the end, just haven't been able to pull myself away.)


I don't know much about running an aero system but I do know salty nutes can cause issues. DG grow and bloom are a clear, green color and when added to a res, the res may take on the slightest hint of a color but the res will remain pristine and clear. I'd think DG with it being as clean as it is would be great in aero.


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## Trichy Bastard (Jan 9, 2012)

homebrewer said:


> I don't know much about running an aero system but I do know salty nutes can cause issues. DG grow and bloom are a clear, green color and when added to a res, the res may take on the slightest hint of a color but the res will remain pristine and clear. I'd think DG with it being as clean as it is would be great in aero.


Agree with Homebrewer on this, I am going to test it in my own setup as I am a Dyna-fan. It is very clean and clear- once mixed, you would not know it wasn't pure water. I am currently using Canna Substra which has been proven to be excellent in DTW aero and is equally as clear, but I am really excited to test the DG against it. Rushed -are you doing low pressure or high pressure?


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## Rushed (Jan 12, 2012)

Trichy Bastard said:


> Agree with Homebrewer on this, I am going to test it in my own setup as I am a Dyna-fan. It is very clean and clear- once mixed, you would not know it wasn't pure water. I am currently using Canna Substra which has been proven to be excellent in DTW aero and is equally as clear, but I am really excited to test the DG against it. Rushed -are you doing low pressure or high pressure?


I'm doing low pressure, 800gpm pump with easy cloner sprayers. I'm very interested in high pressure though. Maybe someday I'll build a setup.


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## Trichy Bastard (Jan 12, 2012)

Rushed said:


> I'm doing low pressure, 800gpm pump with easy cloner sprayers. I'm very interested in high pressure though. Maybe someday I'll build a setup.


Cool man... Yes high pressure has been really fun for me, it's really a different way to grow. My whole setup only uses about half the nutes or less that I would use with hydro, and the whole thing can run off a car battery and 20 watt solar panel off the grid. Right now I am draining to waste, but only go through about 10 gallons per week which would support 8 plants (of course this amount varies with the plants needs and phase of growth). Right now I'm running about 300ppm (.7 scale) and likely won't go past a miximum of 900 ppm. It's really nice not having to ever check ppm or ph after a res refill... I'm pretty excited on the next run to combine the power of HPA with Dynagrow...


Here is another person's pic of HP aero roots... His name was G-Love


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## unohu69 (Jan 14, 2012)

If anyone is interested I upd a scan of the DG feeding schedule. id say its pretty much spot on with what we have all discovered.

https://www.rollitup.org/nutrients/499254-dyna-gro-nutrient-ppm-test.html#post6933491


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## tomat0 (Jan 19, 2012)

HB, would you consider running this comparison again?
I'm a bit curious now that you've about a year's experience with DG in addition to years with GH.


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## homebrewer (Jan 19, 2012)

tomat0 said:


> HB, would you consider running this comparison again?
> I'm a bit curious now that you've about a year's experience with DG in addition to years with GH.


After I decided to make the switch to DynaGro, I ran GH and DG side-by-side in my room in effort to use up all the GH nutes I had sitting around. For the six months following this comparison (or about three harvests), DynaGro outperformed GH every single time no matter what strain I was running and it was doing so while being easier to use. I finally decided that it would be more efficient to just let the GH nutes collect dust than to actually attempt to use them up. I currently have over 7 gallons of GH base nutes that will never get used indoors because DynaGro is just that much better. I was actually considering donating them back to my hydro store. 

So to answer your question, I won't be using GH ever again. DynaGro yields more, it's pH stable, it's less salty, it's more concentrated, it's less expensive, it's easier to use and it requires less daily work. This is going to be a controversial statement but I have also found that DynaGro grows a more potent product with a longer duration than GH. My only explanation is that DG supplies all 16 essential elements while GH only supplies 10. The difference in potency isn't night-and-day but every one of my testers has noticed this. I will say this; GH tends to grow a product that appears to be more resinous, but that doesn't seem to mean anything in regards to potency or duration of the high. The _only _time I'd ever use GH again is to confirm this potency observation though I have no testing facilities in my area.


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## Trichy Bastard (Jan 19, 2012)

Speaking of comparisons, I remember you mentioning planning another head to head test. Have you considered trying it against Canna? Right now I am using the Substra (made) for drain to waste, and it's real clean and clear, and has a good ph with r.o. without needing adjustment (although I can't say if it would remain stable when recirculating) like Dynagro- but it seems to lack some of the trace elements. Like I said, I plan to run Dyna in my next grow to compare results, was curious if you might try it the other way around if you were looking for another test subject.


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## homebrewer (Jan 19, 2012)

Trichy Bastard said:


> Speaking of comparisons, I remember you mentioning planning another head to head test. Have you considered trying it against Canna? Right now I am using the Substra (made) for drain to waste, and it's real clean and clear, and has a good ph with r.o. without needing adjustment (although I can't say if it would remain stable when recirculating) like Dynagro- but it seems to lack some of the trace elements. Like I said, I plan to run Dyna in my next grow to compare results, was curious if you might try it the other way around if you were looking for another test subject.


I liked doing the Connoisseur comparison because there's so much hype behind their products and it was nice to cut through the BS and take an honest look at their most expensive base nutrient. I'm not sure that any other brand has such an ignorant following. If there were, I'd be up for another test.


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## Trichy Bastard (Jan 20, 2012)

homebrewer said:


> I liked doing the Connoisseur comparison because there's so much hype behind their products and it was nice to cut through the BS and take an honest look at their most expensive base nutrient. I'm not sure that any other brand has such an ignorant following. If there were, I'd be up for another test.


Mkes sense and I'm starting to understand a little better what motivates your choices now. Expensive hyped up bullshit is what your looking for... And I'm glad you did connoisseur too, because even I felt myself wondering if it was so great... This connoisseur test really put alot into perspective for me, it was the last straw in me curbing the feeling to impulsively buy magic bottles that are nothing more than strategic marketing ploys.


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## tomat0 (Jan 21, 2012)

homebrewer said:


> After I decided to make the switch to DynaGro, I ran GH and DG side-by-side in my room in effort to use up all the GH nutes I had sitting around. For the six months following this comparison (or about three harvests), DynaGro outperformed GH every single time no matter what strain I was running and it was doing so while being easier to use. I finally decided that it would be more efficient to just let the GH nutes collect dust than to actually attempt to use them up. I currently have over 7 gallons of GH base nutes that will never get used indoors because DynaGro is just that much better. I was actually considering donating them back to my hydro store.
> 
> So to answer your question, I won't be using GH ever again. DynaGro yields more, it's pH stable, it's less salty, it's more concentrated, it's less expensive, it's easier to use and it requires less daily work. This is going to be a controversial statement but I have also found that DynaGro grows a more potent product with a longer duration than GH. My only explanation is that DG supplies all 16 essential elements while GH only supplies 10. The difference in potency isn't night-and-day but every one of my testers has noticed this. I will say this; GH tends to grow a product that appears to be more resinous, but that doesn't seem to mean anything in regards to potency or duration of the high. The _only _time I'd ever use GH again is to confirm this potency observation though I have no testing facilities in my area.


I'm not surprised with your answer. I'm just a bit curious since I've seen such a number of GH applications in large scale operations. It made me want to do a comparison but by paper alone I have my theoretical answers.
I'll probably use the 15+ gallons of GH sitting around for soil. I know the comparison hasn't been completely controlled but it's enough for me.

In regards to your other observations... we're on the same boat.


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## BigBuddahCheese (Mar 28, 2012)

I bought some KLN homebrewer and have an aeroclone bucket. I was running touch of grow and some aquashield alone in there. Now that I have the KLN what do you suggest? I have the whole Dyna line of course.


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## homebrewer (Mar 28, 2012)

BigBuddahCheese said:


> I bought some KLN homebrewer and have an aeroclone bucket. I was running touch of grow and some aquashield alone in there. Now that I have the KLN what do you suggest? I have the whole Dyna line of course.


I use like 1/2 tsp per gallon of KLN in my rooting system. I think there are instructions on the back of the bottle as I have no experience with an aero cloner.


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## BigBuddahCheese (Mar 28, 2012)

That's what I been using like 5ml per gallon. Thanks.


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## foresakenlion (Apr 5, 2012)

Hello, I've been reading about different nutrient lines for years, and Dyno-Gro always stuck out as one of the ones used by Dutch Flower growers, as well as general gardening enthusiasts, never really heard any bad feed back on them.

Then I started reading scholarly articles on the cutting edge of science, and it is now a fact in at least two other species of higher plant that Nickel is required for a laundry list of biological functions, therefore nutrients without Nickel are deficient by nature, in soil I assume it is acquiring Nickel organically, where-as in Hydro using these formulas the plant must be doing some other alternative synthesis to achieve the same thing, though this must surely be stressing the plants in a bad way.

I've been running Lucas w/ GH Liquid then MaxiBloom, I have to say MaxiBloom is too gritty for my tastes and a liquid of any type is better because it holds elements in solution with higher success. Picked up some Dyno-Gro Liquid Bloom, Mag-Pro, Pro-TeKT, Advanced Nutrients pH Up & Down (Most concentrated on the market and renowned as one of their quality products) 

Filled Reservoir W/ approx 8 gallons RO, added the Pro-TeKt first, then Bloom, then Mag Pro, added 100 ML Hydrogen Peroxide, 100 ML Liquid Kelp, 1 Drop Per Gallon Superthrive, 25 ML Florashield (Chitosan), at the end after mixing came to a resting natural pH of 5.5 w/ starting water around 6.8-9 130 ppm

Lowered pH to 5.2 as per Overgrow recommendations, pH held steady for hours drifted up .3 overnight, hope this helps and thank you for convincing me to switch.

Final note, there is an excellent grow by someone using Dyno-Gro as well on Violator Kush if you search it.


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## homebrewer (Apr 5, 2012)

Foresakenlion - Got a link to that grow by chance?

Just a few things to note, I think your pH is a little low. Generally people like something around 5.8 but do what works best for you. Also, superthrive in my opinion has no place outside of cloning. What does florashield do that peroxide doesn't? Forgive the questions, I've just found that a simple approach works better.


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## Trichy Bastard (Apr 5, 2012)

I remember reading that nickel is important for seed production if I remember correctly... It probably has other functions I'll assume as well. Certainly can't hurt to use a little, like how Dyna does- but it can quickly become toxic at higher levels.


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## prestone (Jun 20, 2012)

Amazingly informative. I am new here, but have been growing MJ for about 4 years. 

This grow journal is just what I needed. You can only read so much general information.
Your insights have helped unbrainwash me from all the nutrient advertising wars.

I am curious why you choose to use 600 watts over 1000 watts

I would to here your input on that question.
Now off to consume your DynaGro vs AN Conni Journal

Again thank you for your all the value you bring to the table. You need donate button.


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## homebrewer (Jun 20, 2012)

prestone said:


> Amazingly informative. I am new here, but have been growing MJ for about 4 years.
> 
> This grow journal is just what I needed. You can only read so much general information.
> Your insights have helped unbrainwash me from all the nutrient advertising wars.


The outcome of this journal was obviously a surprise as I was GH guy up to this point. Glad you found it helpful. 



> I am curious why you choose to use 600 watts over 1000 watts


When I first started nearly 11 years ago, my first light was a 600 and I've kind of built from there. Since then I've realized that 600's are more efficient than 1000's given the space they take up. For instance, say you're working with 3k watts. With five 600's, I could easily yield 90-100 ounces. That's not an easy task with only three stationary 1000's. I do think 1000's are great when used with light movers though.


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## Lucius Vorenus (Aug 27, 2012)

What is the smell and consistency of the Floralicious plus? I used some General Organics stuff in the past and it smelled like death. Is it anything like that?


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## homebrewer (Aug 27, 2012)

Lucius Vorenus said:


> What is the smell and consistency of the Floralicious plus? I used some General Organics stuff in the past and it smelled like death. Is it anything like that?


It's a thick, dark liquid. You can easily use a ml dropper to add it to a res but it takes a minute to rinse the dropper as it tends to coat the inside pretty well. 

The smell is hard to describe. There is definitely a deep, earthy smell but to me, the smell is overwhelmingly sharp and almost acidic/sour smelling.


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## Lucius Vorenus (Aug 27, 2012)

homebrewer said:


> It's a thick, dark liquid. You can easily use a ml dropper to add it to a res but it takes a minute to rinse the dropper as it tends to coat the inside pretty well.
> 
> The smell is hard to describe. There is definitely a deep, earthy smell but to me, the smell is overwhelmingly sharp and almost acidic/sour smelling.


Any comparison to Liquid Karma?


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## homebrewer (Aug 27, 2012)

Lucius Vorenus said:


> Any comparison to Liquid Karma?


LK's aroma is just earthy to me, maybe like liquid dirt? If you intensified that earthiness and added a strong, sharp sour/acidic smell, then you've got FLP.


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## spankinvinyl (Oct 7, 2012)

Hi Homebrewer, great journal. I am new to growing and have slowly been acquiring my equipment. I came very close to buying the Advanced Nutrients range, until I saw your results with Dyna Gro. Its not the easiest product to find in the UK, but I have just received my order of the following: pro-tekt 0-0-3, bloom 3-12-6, grow 7-9-5, mag pro 2-15-4. I am growing in a light mix soil and have added perlite, roughly a 60/40 mix. I will be using a 600w lamp. I have twelve seedlings roughly 1 week old. I have been trying to find information on a feeding schedule using Dyna Gro and soil and was hoping you could point me in the right direction. Thanks.


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## homebrewer (Oct 7, 2012)

spankinvinyl said:


> Hi Homebrewer, great journal. I am new to growing and have slowly been acquiring my equipment. I came very close to buying the Advanced Nutrients range, until I saw your results with Dyna Gro. Its not the easiest product to find in the UK, but I have just received my order of the following: pro-tekt 0-0-3, bloom 3-12-6, grow 7-9-5, mag pro 2-15-4. I am growing in a light mix soil and have added perlite, roughly a 60/40 mix. I will be using a 600w lamp. I have twelve seedlings roughly 1 week old. I have been trying to find information on a feeding schedule using Dyna Gro and soil and was hoping you could point me in the right direction. Thanks.


Hopefully your tap water is not too crappy. Water is an item that is often overlooked. 

So for flowering plants, you really wont need more than 1 tsp/gallon of one of their bases and protekt. Cut that in half for veg.

Using protekt and a base in roughly a 1:1 ratio should put your pH in the low 6's but that depends on your water. Find the protekt:base ratio that puts your pH in that ideal range. 

I don't use magpro in the dirt. I haven't found that it's needed. It's strong stuff and 1ml/gallon is plenty for plants in the dirt.

Plants in the dirt often times need more N than we think so the majority of the time, I feed with protekt and grow. Occasionally I'll feed with a 50/50 mix of grow and bloom during flower, but only occasionally.

Casey Jones from House of Love, fed mostly grow and protekt from start to finish. She yielded 3.25 ounces.


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## BakedinAlaska (Jan 1, 2013)

Thank You for this test. I use GH now (soil & PowerGrowers) after being away from the girls for a long time (11 yrs.)due to illness. I used to use Green Air Products (1 part ) because it was so easy in my rockwool slab garden. I have been looking for simplicity and stability in my grows. And almost went Fox Farm ( I'm using Ocean Forest soil)

Please keep feeding us the info. It really does help.


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## hogs (Jan 2, 2013)

BakedinAlaska said:


> Thank You for this test. I use GH now (soil & PowerGrowers) after being away from the girls for a long time (11 yrs.)due to illness. I used to use Green Air Products (1 part ) because it was so easy in my rockwool slab garden. I have been looking for simplicity and stability in my grows. And almost went Fox Farm ( I'm using Ocean Forest soil)
> 
> Please keep feeding us the info. It really does help.



I`ll Second what BakedinAlaska says!!!! ( *Please keep feeding us the info. It really does help. )*

THanks..And all the best in the NEw YEAR!!!!!


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## BakedinAlaska (Jan 4, 2013)

Hi, I got some Dyna Gro and was wondering if you still had the Dyna-Gro feeding schedule ??


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## Samwell Seed Well (Jan 4, 2013)

homebrewer said:


> Hopefully your tap water is not too crappy. Water is an item that is often overlooked.
> 
> So for flowering plants, you really wont need more than 1 tsp/gallon of one of their bases and protekt. Cut that in half for veg.
> 
> ...


what was the size of the sobstrate container, or are you hydro of some sorts


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## homebrewer (Jan 4, 2013)

Samwell Seed Well said:


> what was the size of the sobstrate container, or are you hydro of some sorts


That was in 2.5 gallons of promix (5 gallon bucket filled halfway). I've moved up to 3 gallons to see if the slightly larger rootball would have an affect on yield. The jury is still out.


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## Samwell Seed Well (Jan 5, 2013)

i noticed a pronounced yield increase after 5 gallon size root balls/pots but i also use smart bags . . .. .that is a nice looking girl up there


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## homebrewer (Jan 5, 2013)

Samwell Seed Well said:


> i noticed a pronounced yield increase after 5 gallon size root balls/pots but i also use smart bags . . .. .that is a nice looking girl up there


That's also a lot of dirt to be using/deposing of bur you're right, I bet 5 gallons of dirt grow a huge plant. Personally I like smaller plants but more variety under a single light. How many plants in 5+ gallons of medium are you squeezing under a light?


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## Samwell Seed Well (Jan 5, 2013)

i like smaller plants too i try to get em as wide as possible

i have a thoery that most platns prefer to be small , to have the best quality/potency 

but i have had a few strains that will biuld up strong nugs all the way up and down no matter how big as long as i haven't created to many bud sites with pruning/defoliating and topping


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## Tempe420 (Aug 7, 2013)

Have you tried comparing a Bloom run to a flowering run using just the Foliage Pro? Ive heard good things.


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## homebrewer (Aug 7, 2013)

Tempe420 said:


> Have you tried comparing a Bloom run to a flowering run using just the Foliage Pro? Ive heard good things.


I've been experimenting with 'no bloom' in flower in hydro for a few months now and am just finishing up a run with foliage pro. It worked well but I need another run with FP.


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## Tempe420 (Aug 7, 2013)

homebrewer said:


> I've been experimenting with 'no bloom' in flower in hydro for a few months now and am just finishing up a run with foliage pro. It worked well but I need another run with FP.


Care to share your thoughts thusfar?


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## homebrewer (Aug 7, 2013)

Tempe420 said:


> Care to share your thoughts thusfar?


I need to do more testing.


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## swedsteven (Aug 15, 2013)

wsup finaly after all this
evrything you bring us is so good info .
i was using so many bottle and now im just havesthing the best weed that i ever grow in 5 years exept 1 time i grew the same genetic that im doing now with organic nut that my local store was selling for like 600 $ for all is bottles.but i will never grow with nothing else then dynagro my lacheese produce more then what the reservaprivada say lol dynagro kick but
im groin in soil promix and i switch my grow to bloom slowly and ^potasium silica just like you teach us lol
1week flow 4ml grow 1ml bloom
2week flow 3ml grow 2ml bloom
3week flow 2ml grow 3ml bloom 
4week flow 1ml grow 4ml bloom
5week flow 0ml grow 5ml bloom
6week l l l l l l l l l l l l l l l l
7week same as 5week
8week flush ppm of soil before flush is like 1800 run off i dont see the difference if i dont flush taste the same cheaper to flush lol
never i spent that amount of money to do it lol 20$ soil 25$ dynagro stuff for half the 2 bottle and there it is 3.5 pound under 2 light 1000w ready for the next one i dont find my camera charger when i will i will post some pic this is the nut no more bullshit thank again bro and sorry for my english im french canadien .. see ya soon and love wath you did with dose bacteria and the breeding project your the best


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## cortasetas (Aug 23, 2013)

Hi HB, I have been reading many of your posts for a while and learning a lot. Thank you.

I know you like your plants well feed and green until the end. But I have been reading how nitrogen affects to production of THC, it has been demonstrated that when you find more nitrogen in the big leaves you get less THC content.
http://www.internationalhempassociation.org/jiha/jiha4207.html

wouldn't it be preferable to let the leaves yellow at the mid-end of flowering?


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## homebrewer (Aug 25, 2013)

cortasetas said:


> Hi HB, I have been reading many of your posts for a while and learning a lot. Thank you.
> 
> I know you like your plants well feed and green until the end. But I have been reading how nitrogen affects to production of THC, it has been demonstrated that when you find more nitrogen in the big leaves you get less THC content.
> http://www.internationalhempassociation.org/jiha/jiha4207.html
> ...


I'm not too keen on clicking links on these sites so if you'd like to cut-and-paste that article, I'd definitely give it a read.


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## cortasetas (Aug 26, 2013)

homebrewer said:


> I'm not too keen on clicking links on these sites so if you'd like to cut-and-paste that article, I'd definitely give it a read.


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## cortasetas (Aug 26, 2013)




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## homebrewer (Aug 26, 2013)

Is there a way to make it bigger?


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## cortasetas (Aug 26, 2013)

homebrewer said:


> Is there a way to make it bigger?


I can post the link to the pictures I have uploaded to Imageshack. I don't think Imageshack will harm your computer.
http://imageshack.us/a/img823/2750/brfs.png
http://imageshack.us/a/img14/6329/x4k2.png
http://imageshack.us/a/img197/6493/hhvb.png
http://imageshack.us/a/img545/2799/zczs.png


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## Samwell Seed Well (Aug 26, 2013)

fucking finally, ive been saying this for over a year . . . .

last link under discussion http://imageshack.us/a/img545/2799/zczs.png

"These experiments show that the THC content of leaves decreases with increasing N"


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## homebrewer (Aug 26, 2013)

cortasetas said:


> I can post the link to the pictures I have uploaded to Imageshack. I don't think Imageshack will harm your computer.
> http://imageshack.us/a/img823/2750/brfs.png
> http://imageshack.us/a/img14/6329/x4k2.png
> http://imageshack.us/a/img197/6493/hhvb.png
> http://imageshack.us/a/img545/2799/zczs.png


Thanks, that's much easier to read! 

I advocate keeping plants green and healthy until harvest and this study doesn't say that approach is wrong, it's saying that overloading an element can have an affect on the final product. I agree with that. Hands down, without a doubt, N is the most important element when growing cannabis. But as this study shows, balance is key.


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## cortasetas (Aug 26, 2013)

homebrewer said:


> Thanks, that's much easier to read!
> 
> I advocate keeping plants green and healthy until harvest and this study doesn't say that approach is wrong, it's saying that overloading an element can have an affect on the final product. I agree with that. Hands down, without a doubt, N is the most important element when growing cannabis. But as this study shows, balance is key.


The thing is, I've seen how many say that if you see your plants yellow at mid flowering, you should not do anything about it, as they are getting the N from their own leaves.... and therefore you would have more THC content in your buds.


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## homebrewer (Aug 26, 2013)

cortasetas said:


> The thing is, I've seen how many say that if you see your plants yellow at mid flowering, you should not do anything about it, as they are getting the N from their own leaves.... and therefore you would have more THC content in your buds.


It sounds like you've got some testing to do .


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## Tempe420 (Aug 28, 2013)

That study pretty much advocates for a 1-1-1 regimen and perhaps cutting to a .5-1-1 around week 5-6


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## cortasetas (Sep 4, 2013)

HB, perhaps you could help me understand. 

Lately I have been studying the absorption of nutrients during growth and flowering, and there is something I don't get. The Dyna-gro grow has an NPK ratio of 7-9-5. 

I don't understand why there is such a high content of phosphorus. Is it because, as I have read, it is a very soluble nutrient and is flushed away easily? 

On the other hand if you are using, as they recommend, their Prottek additive, you are adding potassium to the formula. Ending up with almost as much potassium as nitrogen.

I have seen your grows and the results are obvious... it's just that I don't understand.





this image by APTUS HOLLAND has been very helpful to me


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## homebrewer (Sep 4, 2013)

cortasetas said:


> HB, perhaps you could help me understand.
> 
> Lately I have been studying the absorption of nutrients during growth and flowering, and there is something I don't get. The Dyna-gro grow has an NPK ratio of 7-9-5.
> 
> ...


DG's 7-9-5 Grow formula is essentially a balanced formula that can be used from start to finish and while it does supply more phosphorus than I think is really needed, it's not going to hurt you like the high P, low N combo of DG's Bloom formula. 



> this image by APTUS HOLLAND has been very helpful to me


That chart from aptus is less about the science of mineral uptake and more about them trying to sell you a different bottle of snake oil during each week of the flowering period. Aptus is just the latest company to market unneeded, over-priced products to growers who don't know any better.


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## cortasetas (Sep 4, 2013)

On the other hand, after calculating the General Hydroponics rates, it seems that in growth they give 35-17.5-45 in drain to waste and 70-30-90 in recirculating systems. (these ratios are similar to the used by technaflora)
These major contents in Potassium in growth are the opposite to the Dyna-gro rates mentioned before. At the beginning I thought nitrogen was the most important element in growth.



> That chart from aptus is less about the science of mineral uptake and more about them trying to sell you a different bottle of snake oil during each week of the flowering period. Aptus is just the latest company to market unneeded, over-priced products to growers who don't know any better.​


Well... before reading this I bought some guano for my outdoor (4,4-25,6-3,2) for early mid flowering, and had already some Flavor (atami) (0-0-8) that I'll use from mid to late flowering. 
I know that according to the Dyna-gro and GH ratios this doesn't make sense. But I'll follow the chart as an experiment. I'll let you know how my Somango is doing


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## homebrewer (Sep 5, 2013)

cortasetas said:


> On the other hand, after calculating the General Hydroponics rates, it seems that in growth they give 35-17.5-45 in drain to waste and 70-30-90 in recirculating systems. (these ratios are similar to the used by technaflora)
> These major contents in Potassium in growth are the opposite to the Dyna-gro rates mentioned before. At the beginning I thought nitrogen was the most important element in growth.


Potassium is an important element though I'm not sure that I get why it's emphasized in these cannabis-specific formulas given the plants that actually need a decent shot of K. In hydro though, I'd be interested in trying that (0-0-8 ) formula you mention just to see if a measured boost of K has any positive affect.


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## topshelf_sac (Sep 8, 2013)

Thanks Homebrewer. I just ran my first cycle on Dyna Gro Grow in promix. 4 ml Grow 2 ml Protekt and half that in veg all with RO water. Excellent results, very impressive. I still flushed for two weeks. I can only give up one thing at a time. I will do half flush, half no flush next time to see the difference.


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## cortasetas (Sep 10, 2013)

It Amused me seeing this guy, who worked for NASA and sent an Hydroponic system to space, having DYNA-GRO at his back at 29:15 hahahaha
[video=youtube;GhTYI3DeNgA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GhTYI3DeNgA[/video]


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## joe macclennan (Sep 10, 2013)

fol. pro and kln  nice


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## R.Raider (Oct 27, 2013)

Holy shit, 60pages. Can anyone give me a quick summary of the results? I just bought a bottle of Dyna-Gro bloom so I guess I'll see first hand but curious to see how others made out with it. Been using AN 3 part my entire growing career but want to see if I'm missing out on anything from another company.

Big thanks to the OP of this thread.


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## Tempe420 (Oct 27, 2013)

cortasetas said:


> It Amused me seeing this guy, who worked for NASA and sent an Hydroponic system to space, having DYNA-GRO at his back at 29:15 hahahaha
> [video=youtube;GhTYI3DeNgA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GhTYI3DeNgA[/video]


and at 28:55 he has the 3 part GH so don't get too excited


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## scuba.420 (Nov 14, 2013)

Tiger Woods said:


> Good stuff I'll be watching this one. I was having a hard time deciding between lucas and dyna-gro. Ended up with lucas, wish id gone with dyna. I definitly will next go around not only for the extra micros it provides but ph stability and the pro-tek helps prevent mites, iam sold. I haven't encountered any problems using lucas iam going to switch for the reasons stated. Might even be cheaper as Homebrew said. We wnat know until the end, I can't wait.
> 
> Great thread
> 
> Peace and good vibes


What is Lucas here people saying it just confused what it is


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## homebrewer (Nov 14, 2013)

scuba.420 said:


> What is Lucas here people saying it just confused what it is


'Lucas' is referring to a popular feeding schedule where the GH 3-part is used. It's something like 8 bloom and 16 Micro, I personally think it's a great way to burn the sh*t out of your plants. Google it for more info.


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## joe macclennan (Nov 16, 2013)

R.Raider said:


> Holy shit, 60pages. Can anyone give me a quick summary of the results? I just bought a bottle of Dyna-Gro bloom so I guess I'll see first hand but curious to see how others made out with it. Been using AN 3 part my entire growing career but want to see if I'm missing out on anything from another company.
> 
> Big thanks to the OP of this thread.


all roads can lead to the land of milk and honey....just some have less detours and distractions.


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## fandango (Jan 27, 2015)

Been growing in soil....now I will give hydro a run,seems to save 17 days of flower time,Dyna grow here I come.


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## homebrewer (Jan 27, 2015)

fandango said:


> Been growing in soil....now I will give hydro a run,seems to save 17 days of flower time,Dyna grow here I come.


Flowering in hydro wont save much time, if any, over soil/dirt. Maybe 5 days on a 10 week strain?


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## fandango (Jan 27, 2015)

homebrewer said:


> Flowering in hydro wont save much time, if any, over soil/dirt. Maybe 5 days on a 10 week strain?


Thanks for the reply,
Funny that all our stains always take 77 days or more?than I read about hydro guys clipping the buds down in 60 days?
We have indica,hybrid,and sativa growing in soil.

Ps....sure did enjoy the past 2 days reading your dyna grow series...good job there


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## taGyo (Jun 9, 2015)

homebrewer said:


> Flowering in hydro wont save much time, if any, over soil/dirt. Maybe 5 days on a 10 week strain?


Really? I thought you saved the time in veg. Or is that 10 week of flower?


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## homebrewer (Jun 10, 2015)

taGyo said:


> Really? I thought you saved the time in veg. Or is that 10 week of flower?


It does speed up veg and will save a few days on the flower side too.


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## Mad Mardigan (May 10, 2016)

Good read and thank you.
Going to check out your other grows now

MM


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## Ingvar (Jul 24, 2016)

Holy smokes.. took most of the day to read the entire thread.. but incredibly useful to a knowledge-thirsty newbie like me. Thank you homebrewer for all this work!

Sadly for me, I'm still unclear about the feeding dosages. The chart below shows a dosage schedule that most people have found to be too aggressive, did I understand that correctly? It also recommends dosage changes but you achieve great results by using the same ratio throughout, right?







The setup I'm working with is dtw with coco for medium. How should I be rationing out the ingredients in veg and flowering stages? The switching between PPMs & EC and then the ml/g measurements throughout the thread confused me, thanks in advance for your help!


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## homebrewer (Jul 25, 2016)

Ingvar said:


> Holy smokes.. took most of the day to read the entire thread.. but incredibly useful to a knowledge-thirsty newbie like me. Thank you homebrewer for all this work!
> 
> Sadly for me, I'm still unclear about the feeding dosages. The chart below shows a dosage schedule that most people have found to be too aggressive, did I understand that correctly? It also recommends dosage changes but you achieve great results by using the same ratio throughout, right?
> 
> ...


Foliage Pro from start to finish is all you'll need. Protekt is not needed but it's beneficial. I'd start with their recommend maintenance dose (1/2 tsp/gal?) and tweak from there.


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## Tfcinc1 (Jul 25, 2016)

I've been running dynagro with great results in coco. I use 2ml per gal of protekt. 3ml calmag and 4ml of dynagro grow. I feed this veg through flower. Comes out to about 550ppm with my tap being about 110 of that. I seem to have issues with it building up overtime and always do a flush after about 10 weeks of veg and I have to flush after about 4 weeks of flower depending on strain. How Could I alter my feeding so a flush during flower wouldn't be necessary? Any input would be appreciated. Also, I'd like to thank home brewer for guiding me towards dynagro products. It's all I've ever used.


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## Ingvar (Jul 25, 2016)

homebrewer said:


> Foliage Pro from start to finish is all you'll need. Protekt is not needed but it's beneficial. I'd start with their recommend maintenance dose (1/2 tsp/gal?) and tweak from there.


Thanks man! I was actually wrong about the medium - it's not coco, it is Sunshine #4. Does that change your recommendation at all? Why Foliage Pro and not Grow?


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## swedsteven (Jul 26, 2016)

I use grow to they entire flowering cycle with no issue only happy plant but i start to add some bc grow 1-3-6 as boost .I found that the taste become more sweet .maybe cause the high p of dynagro .I use 1ml per litter of dyna grow and I boost my ppm to 900 with bc grow 1-3-6 for the last 4 week taste way better . I was thinking maybe is the amoniac in the n of dyna gro or the p ?


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## homebrewer (Jul 26, 2016)

Ingvar said:


> Thanks man! I was actually wrong about the medium - it's not coco, it is Sunshine #4. Does that change your recommendation at all? Why Foliage Pro and not Grow?


Yep! My recommendation is still the same but you can't go wring with either grow or foliage pro. In my experience, FP is a better performer but by only a slight margin.


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## homebrewer (Jul 26, 2016)

Tfcinc1 said:


> I've been running dynagro with great results in coco. I use 2ml per gal of protekt. 3ml calmag and 4ml of dynagro grow. I feed this veg through flower. Comes out to about 550ppm with my tap being about 110 of that. I seem to have issues with it building up overtime and always do a flush after about 10 weeks of veg and I have to flush after about 4 weeks of flower depending on strain. How Could I alter my feeding so a flush during flower wouldn't be necessary? Any input would be appreciated. Also, I'd like to thank home brewer for guiding me towards dynagro products. It's all I've ever used.


I've never needed calmag so I question its use in your garden with Grow. Also, your dosage of Grow could probably be cut back. Try their recommended dose at 1/2tsp/gal. You could also cut back Protekt to 1ml/gal too. Protekt seems to build up in the plant so you should be great even at 1ml/gal. I use it at an even lighter dose than that.

Those changes will decrease the total amount of salts going through your medium but should be plenty to grow lush, healthy plants.


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## Tfcinc1 (Jul 28, 2016)

I'll give it a go and see how they respond to less grow. I ran autos my first run and had one who ate up 10ml per gallon of grow. Any less and she started eating her leaves away. She yielded 4.5oz on her own. The total for that run in a 4x4 space was 24oz. All autos using just dynagro nutes under 2 kind xl750. 

I never used calmag prior but I moved my garden and had some signs of needing it. Once added I didn't get any more symptoms. It helps keep them green with the added nitrogen I've noticed. 

Thank you for your feedback. It's much appreciated. 



homebrewer said:


> I've never needed calmag so I question its use in your garden with Grow. Also, your dosage of Grow could probably be cut back. Try their recommended dose at 1/2tsp/gal. You could also cut back Protekt to 1ml/gal too. Protekt seems to build up in the plant so you should be great even at 1ml/gal. I use it at an even lighter dose than that.
> 
> Those changes will decrease the total amount of salts going through your medium but should be plenty to grow lush, healthy plants.





homebrewer said:


> I've never needed calmag so I question its use in your garden with Grow. Also, your dosage of Grow could probably be cut back. Try their recommended dose at 1/2tsp/gal. You could also cut back Protekt to 1ml/gal too. Protekt seems to build up in the plant so you should be great even at 1ml/gal. I use it at an even lighter dose than that.
> 
> Those changes will decrease the total amount of salts going through your medium but should be plenty to grow lush, healthy plants.


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## Resinhound (Jul 28, 2016)

I'm sorry I just can't believe any auto would need to be fed 10ml per gallon of any dynagro... Honestly, that's absurd. I've grown alot of autos all of them are happy with 1ml per liter or less... Thats at the most 4ml per gallon...

No wonder you have build up..


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## Tfcinc1 (Jul 28, 2016)

Nope, she was the only one that needed that feeding and never needed a flush. I typically use 4ml per gallon start to finish.


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## homebrewer (Jul 28, 2016)

Part of the ppm/EC equation is how often we're watering our plants. I feed very lightly but my flowering plants need water every day and subsequently get about 1/2 gallon/day. I can see a less frequent watering schedule needing to increase the dose of plant food but 10mls/gal is a pretty potent dose. 

If we're not watering every day or every other day I'd bet there are ways to improve the medium they're in or the temp/humidity in the room. These are all pieces of the puzzle.


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## Shakenbabies (Oct 8, 2016)

homebrewer said:


> A minimum of 2 but that depends on the stage of growth and how much the ladies are drinking.
> Just a few inches. The rockwool will wick up the water.
> I don't use clearex anymore. I run water for 2 hours and top feed a few times to leach out salts. After 2 hours, the res is drained and fresh nutes and water are added.


Hi HB, been poking around your threads and comments. I'm going to try my next run in 6x6 RW using Dyna nutes. I've been doing flood and drain in hydroton with GH nutes but I'm tired of cleaning all those rocks...
Are you flowering in just 6x6 cubes or are you placing those cubes on a coco mat at all? Could you PM me, I'm too new to send one...I don't need your recipe or grow tips, I'm sure you've spent hundreds of $ like I have through trial and error but some setup advice would be much appreciated.


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## Tigerpaws (Oct 10, 2016)

I've been reading through this tread for 2 days now. Very interesting and I've learned a lot. What im not seeing though is the feed chart that was determined to be optimal through all stages. If its in here, would someone be so kind as to let me know what page its on. I have all of DG's products and just recently had a big problem on my first grow with salt build up in my 5-6 week of flower. My next grow is going to be ebb/flow in coco smart pots. I would like to have a tried and true feed/flush schedule.


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## Shakenbabies (Oct 10, 2016)

Tigerpaws said:


> I've been reading through this tread for 2 days now. Very interesting and I've learned a lot. What im not seeing though is the feed chart that was determined to be optimal through all stages. If its in here, would someone be so kind as to let me know what page its on. I have all of DG's products and just recently had a big problem on my first grow with salt build up in my 5-6 week of flower. My next grow is going to be ebb/flow in coco smart pots. I would like to have a tried and true feed/flush schedule.


No one should give you an exact schedule nor should you follow someone else's exact recommendation. I only say this because false information is everywhere.
Good choice on DG nutrients though because they really work. Feed you plants with 1/4 strength of what the bottle says. Always use protekt first. In veg try not to go over 600ppm. I like to stay around 400ppm.
In bloom gradually make your way up to 1400ppm.
But most importantly, read your plants. They'll tell you everything you need to know.
Happy growing.


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## Tigerpaws (Oct 10, 2016)

Shakenbabies said:


> No one should give you an exact schedule nor should you follow someone else's exact recommendation. I only say this because false information is everywhere.
> Good choice on DG nutrients though because they really work. Feed you plants with 1/4 strength of what the bottle says. Always use protekt first. In veg try not to go over 600ppm. I like to stay around 400ppm.
> In bloom gradually make your way up to 1400ppm.
> But most importantly, read your plants. They'll tell you everything you need to know.
> Happy growing.


Thanks for the recommendation. I'll give that a shot!


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## Tigerpaws (Oct 10, 2016)

Shakenbabies said:


> No one should give you an exact schedule nor should you follow someone else's exact recommendation. I only say this because false information is everywhere.
> Good choice on DG nutrients though because they really work. Feed you plants with 1/4 strength of what the bottle says. Always use protekt first. In veg try not to go over 600ppm. I like to stay around 400ppm.
> In bloom gradually make your way up to 1400ppm.
> But most importantly, read your plants. They'll tell you everything you need to know.
> Happy growing.


My Tap water is 400ppm. I don't count that in the equations correct?


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## Shakenbabies (Oct 10, 2016)

Yes absolutely count whatever your meter is saying. Remember to calibrate it every two harvests too.
However, if your tap water is 400ppm I would suggest two things. First, start saving up for Reverse Osmosis filtration system. RO water is usually less than 50ppm. Secondly, until you have a filter, let whatever water you using now sit for 24hrs before using it. Sounds like you've got some hard water and need to let the chlorine and other chemicals/minerals evaporate before using it.
Most hydro guys are using RO water but my tap is always at about 120-160ppm so I don't run it at all.


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## Tigerpaws (Oct 10, 2016)

Shakenbabies said:


> Yes absolutely count whatever your meter is saying. Remember to calibrate it every two harvests too.
> However, if your tap water is 400ppm I would suggest two things. First, start saving up for Reverse Osmosis filtration system. RO water is usually less than 50ppm. Secondly, until you have a filter, let whatever water you using now sit for 24hrs before using it. Sounds like you've got some hard water and need to let the chlorine and other chemicals/minerals evaporate before using it.
> Most hydro guys are using RO water but my tap is always at about 120-160ppm so I don't run it at all.


I'm actually hooking up my RO filter tonight. I'm confused though. So if I was using 400 ppm water and I wanted to feed a total of 600 ppm, would I still feed 600 ppm nutes and my TDs meter would read 1000? Or I only use 200 ppm nutes?


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## Yesdog (Oct 10, 2016)

Shakenbabies said:


> Yes absolutely count whatever your meter is saying. Remember to calibrate it every two harvests too.
> However, if your tap water is 400ppm I would suggest two things. First, start saving up for Reverse Osmosis filtration system. RO water is usually less than 50ppm. Secondly, until you have a filter, let whatever water you using now sit for 24hrs before using it. Sounds like you've got some hard water and need to let the chlorine and other chemicals/minerals evaporate before using it.
> Most hydro guys are using RO water but my tap is always at about 120-160ppm so I don't run it at all.


Yea if its semi-hard you're basically just getting some free cal/mag... plus a pH up buffer. So it's harder to lower the pH, but once you do the free 'buffer' helps keep it there for you.



Tigerpaws said:


> I'm actually hooking up my RO filter tonight. I'm confused though. So if I was using 400 ppm water and I wanted to feed a total of 600 ppm, would I still feed 600 ppm nutes and my TDs meter would read 1000? Or I only use 200 ppm nutes?


Can get a bit complicated. If your water is that hard, there's lots of Calcium and other stuff in there may 'fall out' of your solution with too many other nutes. In the end this means you can't use as much nutrients (and may cause ph issues), or you have to somehow formulate around your hard water.


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## bassman999 (Oct 10, 2016)

I used part R/O and part water from the machines at the store to help with too much ph up from tap.
My tap is like 8+ph and close to 200ppm.

Dont think about how much PPM you are adding to water, but pay attention the PPM after you added it.
So just add nutes till you get the ppm you are after.
I used r/o with tap to the the ph where I wanted without having to use ph up or ph down.
Remember to check still even if you think you have it down because tap water , at least here, can fluctuate.


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## Tigerpaws (Oct 10, 2016)

Yesdog said:


> Yea if its semi-hard you're basically just getting some free cal/mag... plus a pH up buffer. So it's harder to lower the pH, but once you do the free 'buffer' helps keep it there for you.
> 
> 
> 
> Can get a bit complicated. If your water is that hard, there's lots of Calcium and other stuff in there may 'fall out' of your solution with too many other nutes. In the end this means you can't use as much nutrients (and may cause ph issues), or you have to somehow formulate around your hard water.


Ok. Well I'm in the process of hooking up an RO system right now so that worry will be gone. Thank you.


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## Tigerpaws (Oct 10, 2016)

bassman999 said:


> I used part R/O and part water from the machines at the store to help with too much ph up from tap.
> My tap is like 8+ph and close to 200ppm.
> 
> Dont think about how much PPM you are adding to water, but pay attention the PPM after you added it.
> ...


Got it I think! So after I get my RO hooked up and I have 50 ppm water and I want 400 ppm total. I just add enough nutes to equal 350 ppm. Right?


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## bassman999 (Oct 10, 2016)

Tigerpaws said:


> Got it I think! So after I get my RO hooked up and I have 50 ppm water and I want 400 ppm total. I just add enough nutes to equal 350 ppm. Right?


Yeah


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## Tigerpaws (Oct 10, 2016)

Quick question. What do you do with the waste water from the RO? I just filled a 5 gallon bucket to get about a cup of RO water. Is this normal?


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## bassman999 (Oct 10, 2016)

Tigerpaws said:


> Quick question. What do you do with the waste water from the RO? I just filled a 5 gallon bucket to get about a cup of RO water. Is this normal?


Shouldnt waste that much AFAIK, but I would route it to your drain I guess


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## homebrewer (Oct 18, 2016)

Shakenbabies said:


> Hi HB, been poking around your threads and comments. I'm going to try my next run in 6x6 RW using Dyna nutes. I've been doing flood and drain in hydroton with GH nutes but I'm tired of cleaning all those rocks...
> Are you flowering in just 6x6 cubes or are you placing those cubes on a coco mat at all? Could you PM me, I'm too new to send one...I don't need your recipe or grow tips, I'm sure you've spent hundreds of $ like I have through trial and error but some setup advice would be much appreciated.


Yep, 6 x 6 cubes in my flood and drain areas of the garden.


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## edaisson (Oct 23, 2016)

Tigerpaws said:


> Quick question. What do you do with the waste water from the RO? I just filled a 5 gallon bucket to get about a cup of RO water. Is this normal?


You got low water pressure, so it drains most of it and only a little drip comes out filtered. You need an inline pressure boost pump. Run for about $30~$60 on Amazon


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## Tigerpaws (Oct 24, 2016)

edaisson said:


> You got low water pressure, so it drains most of it and only a little drip comes out filtered. You need an inline pressure boost pump. Run for about $30~$60 on Amazon


Actually I had just hooked it up and had a valve open that was supposed to be closed. I just changed the piece of tubing from purple to red also which lessens the waste. My pressure is 100 psi. Actually a bit to high. Thanks for your input!


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## edaisson (Oct 24, 2016)

Tigerpaws said:


> Actually I had just hooked it up and had a valve open that was supposed to be closed. I just changed the piece of tubing from purple to red also which lessens the waste. My pressure is 100 psi. Actually a bit to high. Thanks for your input!


Mines at 80. 100psi might be a bit high but worst case scenario won't filter it down to 0ppm, instead around 20ppm. Which is still great. Good luck.


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## Tigerpaws (Oct 31, 2016)

homebrewer said:


> Foliage Pro from start to finish is all you'll need. Protekt is not needed but it's beneficial. I'd start with their recommend maintenance dose (1/2 tsp/gal?) and tweak from there.


Would this apply to a twice or 3 a day feed as well? I'm in 3 gallon coco dtw. I'm trying to come up with a good place to start with all of the DG products on hand.


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## homebrewer (Oct 31, 2016)

Tigerpaws said:


> Would this apply to a twice or 3 a day feed as well? I'm in 3 gallon coco dtw. I'm trying to come up with a good place to start with all of the DG products on hand.


With feedings that frequently you may want to dose that back a bit. Maybe 1ml/gal of foliage pro and see how the plants do? If you see a little yellowing down low then increase that dose slightly. 1.5mls/gal?


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## Tigerpaws (Oct 31, 2016)

homebrewer said:


> With feedings that frequently you may want to dose that back a bit. Maybe 1ml/gal of foliage pro and see how the plants do? If you see a little yellowing down low then increase that dose slightly. 1.5mls/gal?


Thank you!


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## Tigerpaws (Nov 1, 2016)

homebrewer said:


> Today is day 42 of 60 and earlier in the week I started to notice some nute burn. Dumpster is a heavier feeder and at the suggested feeding rates from DG, Ive kinda felt like Ive been walking the line of leaf-tip burn this whole time. This is ok in my mind as that means Im feeding my girls everything they need, plus a little more. However, while the buds still smell fruity and skunky, squeezing them and smelling my fingers reveals the slightest aroma of earthy-nutrients. With that being said, I may be cutting the nutes back by 10-20% (except ProTekt). Of course this only makes the nutrient line cheaper so Im not complaining. The slight overfeeding may even have contributed to the next issue which was one pH adjustment this week. Ive gotten to the point where I only check the DG pH about every other day and it had dropped to 5.3 on Friday evening. No harm done and a quick adjustment to around 5.8 fixed that. Also, I cut down the amount of grow formula that I was using with the bloom and by doing so, I'm supplying the plants with more phosphorus than possibly needed. This could also be a culprit. Maybe the fix here isn't to dial back, but to go back to my 1/3 grow, 2/3 bloom ratio?
> 
> Spider mites? I did find one leaf with mites on it this past week in a res off-camera, but it was also touching a plant fresh from the veg area that had a few mites on it. The dumpster tray continues to be mite-free and I contribute the added resistance to ProTekt.
> 
> ...


When using Protekt how do you top off you rez since you are supposed to use it first?


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## supdro (Nov 1, 2016)

Tigerpaws said:


> When using Protekt how do you top off you rez since you are supposed to use it first?



In my experience when I top off the rez it will lower the PH. If I need to raise the PH I usually add protekt I never had any issues with add back


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## Tigerpaws (Nov 3, 2016)

Tuedsay night I replaced my old rez water with new and I added the Protekt first, then FP, some bloom, Calmag, h202, and drip clean. I then had to add some pH up to get it too 6.2. Last night the water was cloudy. Is this normal or did I do some thing wrong?


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## supdro (Nov 16, 2016)

Shakenbabies said:


> No one should give you an exact schedule nor should you follow someone else's exact recommendation. I only say this because false information is everywhere.
> Good choice on DG nutrients though because they really work. Feed you plants with 1/4 strength of what the bottle says. Always use protekt first. In veg try not to go over 600ppm. I like to stay around 400ppm.
> In bloom gradually make your way up to 1400ppm.
> But most importantly, read your plants. They'll tell you everything you need to know.
> Happy growing.



Has anyone ran foliage pro thru flower in hydro? How was your experience? Im running an ebb and flow 4x4 table with 60 gallon res. I did a res change yesterday and used mostly pro with 200 ppm of bloom at total 1100ppm or 1.6-7 EC starting ppm of 150. Im sure the mix will keep them green but not wanting too much nitrogen


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## edaisson (Nov 16, 2016)

supdro said:


> Has anyone ran foliage pro thru flower in hydro? How was your experience? Im running an ebb and flow 4x4 table with 60 gallon res. I did a res change yesterday and used mostly pro with 200 ppm of bloom at total 1100ppm or 1.6-7 EC starting ppm of 150. Im sure the mix will keep them green but not wanting too much nitrogen


Have you tried it in coco? Busy wondering the results.


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## supdro (Nov 16, 2016)

edaisson said:


> Have you tried it in coco? Busy wondering the results.


Yes i have does great! Very simple. I ask because the pro has plenty of nitrogen but in flower i want more k. The bloom has too much p for me to use as a lucas formula, so i added pro after bloom. This time i was hi and grabbed the wrong jug first...lol


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## edaisson (Nov 16, 2016)

supdro said:


> Yes i have does great! Very simple. I ask because the pro has plenty of nitrogen but in flower i want more k. The bloom has too much p for me to use as a lucas formula, so i added pro after bloom. This time i was hi and grabbed the wrong jug first...lol


I've read Homebrewer (and Dyna Gro's CEO on the dude grows show) say that Foliage Pro start to finish is all you need. At least in coco. But I'm wondering about the high amount of Nitrogen. Would like to hear first hand from someone who's tried it start to finish.


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## homebrewer (Nov 16, 2016)

supdro said:


> Has anyone ran foliage pro thru flower in hydro? How was your experience? Im running an ebb and flow 4x4 table with 60 gallon res. I did a res change yesterday and used mostly pro with 200 ppm of bloom at total 1100ppm or 1.6-7 EC starting ppm of 150. Im sure the mix will keep them green but not wanting too much nitrogen


First of all your feeding levels are unnecessarily high. At that level you're just wasting plant food.

I have run FP from start to finish in my flood and drain system. It will grow overly leafy and branchy plants at the cost of some yield. Your best bet is a blend of bloom and grow (or foliage pro) with the majority of the mix being made up of bloom.


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## Shakenbabies (Nov 17, 2016)

supdro said:


> Has anyone ran foliage pro thru flower in hydro? How was your experience? Im running an ebb and flow 4x4 table with 60 gallon res. I did a res change yesterday and used mostly pro with 200 ppm of bloom at total 1100ppm or 1.6-7 EC starting ppm of 150. Im sure the mix will keep them green but not wanting too much nitrogen


I run FP all through flower in flood and drain except like the last week or so. Your ec is really high and your plants are gonna stretch more then they need to. Start out with like a minimum of 1ml/gal of grow (or FP) then add more next res change if you see deficiencies. Try and keep your total ec around 1.2-1.3 throughout your whole cycle. 
I use to run high ec like you but like HB says, your just wasting food.
I love it foliage pro, keeps the leaves nice and happy. Listen to HB, that man knows his shit.


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## supdro (Nov 17, 2016)

my water EC starting out like i mentioned is 200 PPM which is .2 or .3 EC so really I'm only running 1.3 EC of nutrients or 900 PPM not really wasting nutrients... I will add some water and bring it down to 1k PPM. I would like to come up with a mix of DG so I can keep my phosphorus low, my nitrogen mild and potassium High


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## Shakenbabies (Nov 17, 2016)

I would aim for a ec of 1.2 total (850ppm using .5 scale) including your tap water. Start around there, I know that sounds low but it works great for me. If I see light yellowing on the lowers, I just bump my FP by .5ml/gal. Gets me fantastic nugs and great yields.
Hope it helps, happy growing.


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## edaisson (Nov 17, 2016)

homebrewer said:


> First of all your feeding levels are unnecessarily high. At that level you're just wasting plant food.
> 
> I have run FP from start to finish in my flood and drain system. It will grow overly leafy and branchy plants at the cost of some yield. Your best bet is a blend of bloom and grow (or foliage pro) with the majority of the mix being made up of bloom.


Is that mix for hydro or should I follow it for coco as well?


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## homebrewer (Nov 21, 2016)

edaisson said:


> Is that mix for hydro or should I follow it for coco as well?


I only add Bloom to the mix in my flood and drain hydro tables.


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## supdro (Nov 21, 2016)

I used this. Guy knows his stuff. This is what I used for my Promix or Coco


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## Tfcinc1 (Dec 20, 2016)

I've changed things around a little the last few months. I was having issues with my ph levels in the coco medium. Before I was using 1ml/gal pro-tekt, 3ml/gal dyna grow, 3ml/gal cal-mag plus and 1ml/gal uc roots. I'd feed at 5.7-6.0 solution going in and I'd always get a runoff of 5.1 or lower(in flower, no issues in veg). This was feeding in veg through flower. I never have an issue in veg feeding this way (1gal pots feeding up to 2x a day). I tried taking homebrewers advise and cutting back my grow and cal-mag usage but was met with deficiencies in an effort to cut down on salt build up. Once I'd transition into flower is when my issues would arise. Ph wouldn't be stable and would always come out lower than what was going in. Now I'm using in flower .5ml/gal pro-tekt, 3ml/gal grow, 3ml/gal cal-mag plus .5ml/gal uc roots and 5ml botanicare tea (every couple days I'll add .5ml gal of mag pro). Not much of a difference from previous. Instead of doing a wet/dry with the coco watering just once per day I'm now keeping the medium moist (ex gf loves that word...NOT) with a feeding at the levels described in the AM then giving just a PH'd to 5.8-6.0 of 5ml/gal botanicare tea in the evening. Getting a slight run-off with each watering. This has completely changed my runoff ph. and consistently stays within .3 of what goes in. I'm seeing explosive growth and the best plants I've done to date. I think just giving a ph'd watering instead of the tea would give similar results but I'm loving this tea addition. Just thought I'd share some of my results.


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## homebrewer (Dec 20, 2016)

Tfcinc1 said:


> I've changed things around a little the last few months. I was having issues with my ph levels in the coco medium. Before I was using 1ml/gal pro-tekt, 3ml/gal dyna grow, 3ml/gal cal-mag plus and 1ml/gal uc roots. I'd feed at 5.7-6.0 solution going in and I'd always get a runoff of 5.1 or lower(in flower, no issues in veg). This was feeding in veg through flower. I never have an issue in veg feeding this way (1gal pots feeding up to 2x a day). I tried taking homebrewers advise and cutting back my grow and cal-mag usage but was met with deficiencies in an effort to cut down on salt build up. Once I'd transition into flower is when my issues would arise. Ph wouldn't be stable and would always come out lower than what was going in. Now I'm using in flower .5ml/gal pro-tekt, 3ml/gal grow, 3ml/gal cal-mag plus .5ml/gal uc roots and 5ml botanicare tea (every couple days I'll add .5ml gal of mag pro). Not much of a difference from previous. Instead of doing a wet/dry with the coco watering just once per day I'm now keeping the medium moist (ex gf loves that word...NOT) with a feeding at the levels described in the AM then giving just a PH'd to 5.8-6.0 of 5ml/gal botanicare tea in the evening. Getting a slight run-off with each watering. This has completely changed my runoff ph. and consistently stays within .3 of what goes in. I'm seeing explosive growth and the best plants I've done to date. I think just giving a ph'd watering instead of the tea would give similar results but I'm loving this tea addition. Just thought I'd share some of my results.


I would argue that the calmag isn't needed but if you're getting good growth then stick with it I guess. 

Watering technique is really underrated. Where some folks might think they're seeing a deficiency and a need to tweek their food, a lot of times the solution is much simpler like watering more frequently.


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## Tfcinc1 (Dec 20, 2016)

homebrewer said:


> I would argue that the calmag isn't needed but if you're getting good growth then stick with it I guess.
> 
> Watering technique is really underrated. Where some folks might think they're seeing a deficiency and a need to tweek their food, a lot of times the solution is much simpler like watering more frequently.


I tried to cut back on the cal mag but the plants hated me. Even at 3ml/gal, it's not enough in flower so I included mag-pro in addition at a low dose every few feedings (seemed like a mag def). This combination had been incredible. I think changing my watering technique has helped some but it seems splitting my feed with a compost tea AM/PM has helped ring in my ph issue as well as the obvious of making nutrients more available. I'm just about 1/4 way through a run so I will see how the yields go but so far I'm very happy with this combo. I'll report back with updates in a few weeks.


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## supdro (Dec 21, 2016)

Tfcinc1 said:


> I tried to cut back on the cal mag but the plants hated me. Even at 3ml/gal, it's not enough in flower so I included mag-pro in addition at a low dose every few feedings (seemed like a mag def). This combination had been incredible. I think changing my watering technique has helped some but it seems splitting my feed with a compost tea AM/PM has helped ring in my ph issue as well as the obvious of making nutrients more available. I'm just about 1/4 way through a run so I will see how the yields go but so far I'm very happy with this combo. I'll report back with updates in a few weeks.


Like you I ran cocoa with Dyna Gro and thought I was calcium issues it was really magnesium rust spots. What kind of deficiencies are you getting


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## Tfcinc1 (Dec 21, 2016)

supdro said:


> Like you I ran cocoa with Dyna Gro and thought I was calcium issues it was really magnesium rust spots. What kind of deficiencies are you getting



When I tried to cut the cal mag down I was seeing both mag and cal deficiency. At my current 3ml per gal I get just mag def but mainly only in flower (keep in mind I'm running LED if that matters). I added mag pro .25-.5ml/gal into the mix instead of more calmag to help keep nitrogen a little lower as I'm getting plenty in my current mix.mag pro and calmag have the same nitrogen values but I'm using less than I would of the calmag so it helps. Super critical and humboldt blue dream love my current mix. My Amherst sour is still very slightly mag def but she'll keep getting the same mix.


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## BTzGrow (Apr 12, 2018)

Good Day all, just signed into RIU and found you via my brother who got here before me. I've been using the Dyna-Gro exclusively since about a month into this my first grow. I have been supplementing some Cal-mg from Bonicare about every other watering and not nearly at the levels called for. Looks like I have a bit of reading to catch up but will chime in once I'm up to speed. Glad to find you and this thread.


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## homebrewer (Apr 13, 2018)

BTzGrow said:


> Good Day all, just signed into RIU and found you via my brother who got here before me. I've been using the Dyna-Gro exclusively since about a month into this my first grow. I have been supplementing some Cal-mg from Bonicare about every other watering and not nearly at the levels called for. Looks like I have a bit of reading to catch up but will chime in once I'm up to speed. Glad to find you and this thread.


You don't need to add cal/mag with DG base nutrients and I'd actually be surprised if cal/mag is needed with any other plant food that already contains calcium and magnesium.


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## BTzGrow (Apr 13, 2018)

homebrewer said:


> You don't need to add cal/mag with DG base nutrients and I'd actually be surprised if cal/mag is needed with any other plant food that already contains calcium and magnesium.


Very interesting and I'm interested in following up on this. I started Bonicare Cal-Mag because early on in the grow before I really started using the DG I had some major problems with brown edges and was suggested I had a Mag deficiency. Tried foliar spraying with Epsom Salts to no eval and started theCal-Mag & DG at about the same time and the issue finally went away.

I have been looking at the Mag-Pro 2-15-4 that DG carries and seems to have a lot of benefits to the flowering stage especially. What do you think of it?


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## BTzGrow (Apr 13, 2018)

I'm looking at the Dyna Grow feeding chart attached and finding the Mag-Pro a vital part of their recommendation for flowering. What are your feeling on it? Especially during flowering?


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## homebrewer (Apr 13, 2018)

BTzGrow said:


> Very interesting and I'm interested in following up on this. I started Bonicare Cal-Mag because early on in the grow before I really started using the DG I had some major problems with brown edges and was suggested I had a Mag deficiency. Tried foliar spraying with Epsom Salts to no eval and started theCal-Mag & DG at about the same time and the issue finally went away.
> 
> I have been looking at the Mag-Pro 2-15-4 that DG carries and seems to have a lot of benefits to the flowering stage especially. What do you think of it?


If you have a plant problem, the only 2 things people say is 'it must be your pH' or 'you need more cal/mag' and I'd be willing to bet that often times neither is the issue. 

Magpro is not needed.


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## BTzGrow (Apr 13, 2018)

homebrewer said:


> If you have a plant problem, the only 2 things people say is 'it must be your pH' or 'you need more cal/mag' and I'd be willing to bet that often times neither is the issue.
> 
> Magpro is not needed.


I have to say, I like your approach. From the beginning I paid attention to pH, even though my first meter was a piece of crap. So when a deficiency was attributed to calcium or magnesium what the hell do I know. I have to say, the regular use of ProteKt and Grow/Bloom has been very good. There is a part of me that appreciates the feeding chart from DG as positive advice. I have been looking for ways to increase bloom and nug/colas size and it seems that's what Mag-Pro is touted to do.

At this point, I'm going to roll with the idea "if it isn't broken, don't fix it." Reducing or eliminating Cal-Mag would make things easier. BTW what do you think about Bacillus Root Inoculant such as Bonicare Hydroguard?


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## BTzGrow (Apr 13, 2018)

I ran some numbers on CannaStats site and come up with the following with regards to my local water in San Diego


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## homebrewer (Apr 14, 2018)

BTzGrow said:


> I have to say, I like your approach. From the beginning I paid attention to pH, even though my first meter was a piece of crap. So when a deficiency was attributed to calcium or magnesium what the hell do I know. I have to say, the regular use of ProteKt and Grow/Bloom has been very good. There is a part of me that appreciates the feeding chart from DG as positive advice. I have been looking for ways to increase bloom and nug/colas size and it seems that's what Mag-Pro is touted to do.
> 
> At this point, I'm going to roll with the idea "if it isn't broken, don't fix it." Reducing or eliminating Cal-Mag would make things easier. BTW what do you think about Bacillus Root Inoculant such as Bonicare Hydroguard?


Just concentrate on plant health and the yields will follow. Pro tip: master pruning techniques like topping, bending, supercropping, etc. for a real bump in yield. 

Magpro *could* increase yields but only if you're currently missing the elements it's supplying. 

I'd also recommend making your own protekt with distilled water and potassium silicate in powder form. It's super easy and takes the cost down to about $10/gallon.


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## BTzGrow (Apr 14, 2018)

homebrewer said:


> Just concentrate on plant health and the yields will follow. Pro tip: master pruning techniques like topping, bending, supercropping, etc. for a real bump in yield.
> Magpro *could* increase yields but only if you're currently missing the elements it's supplying.
> I'd also recommend making your own protekt with distilled water and potassium silicate in powder form. It's super easy and takes the cost down to about $10/gallon.


Thanks for the tips. I have been working with a few different pruning techniques. I topped early on in veg above the 5th node and then again on the 2nd node out on each of the pairs of branches below the fifth node. Then when tall enough in veg I put in a 3.5inch netting as a screen. Later on I started tying down with soft ties to keep apical dominance from happening. I feel the plant is quite health in its final stages of stretch and have been doing some major defoliation on lower fan leaves and even some higher ones that are shading too much. Here's a current picture of my Skywalker, started Dec. 3rd, hoping for a harvest in 4-6 weeks.


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## homebrewer (Apr 14, 2018)

BTzGrow said:


> Thanks for the tips. I have been working with a few different pruning techniques. I topped early on in veg above the 5th node and then again on the 2nd node out on each of the pairs of branches below the fifth node. Then when tall enough in veg I put in a 3.5inch netting as a screen. Later on I started tying down with soft ties to keep apical dominance from happening. I feel the plant is quite health in its final stages of stretch and have been doing some major defoliation on lower fan leaves and even some higher ones that are shading too much. Here's a current picture of my Skywalker, started Dec. 3rd, hoping for a harvest in 4-6 weeks.


Nice job!


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## ToneOZ (Dec 24, 2019)

homebrewer said:


> Here are the three products:
> 
> 
> 
> ...and the ladies.


Pics missing?


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