# Grow room Electrical Safety Guidelines



## kingofqueen (Aug 5, 2010)

Welcome all ! Electrical safety is an subject area that often gets overlooked. With so many new growers I think there is some need for concern in this area . I,m an 16 yr electrician and am going to share my knowledge from being on construction sites for 16 yrs to compile this article to keep our grows and homes safe !


The Basics
First off most home circuits are 15 amps. And the average voltage is 115 volts .Which equals 1,725 watts. BUT that is the maximum . You will be safe using 80% of this which is 12 amps or 1,380 watts.
So what you want to do is make a list of every electrical item in your grow. Then add up the total wattage to see where your at . If amperage is given and not wattage you have to multiply the amperage by the voltage so 1.2 amps is 138 watts at 115 volts . 
Volts x amps = watts
So with this information you should be able to get an idea of where you stand in total load on your grow per the circuit your using . Its also a good idea to be sure nothing else is on the circuit u use. If there is u have to add this in your calculation .

#1 Issue Heat from Ballasts

Your lighting ballasts generate a lot of heat . The hotter they get the less efficient they are whether its digital,electronic,or magnetic . Care should be taken to locate your ballasts in an area that gets some airflow usally outside the room so that the heat doesnt collect in your grow enclosure. 

#2 Issue Cords

Care should be taken when using extension cords . Always use cord rated for the correct amperage according to your breaker. Always use 15 a cords . All cords should be checked daily as part of your PM. Check for nicks cuts and always check plug in connections . Loose cord connections start to generate extra heat and can eventually melt , or catch fire if left unnoticed !
It is equally important to check any wiring connections made . Meaning items you wired yourself . Be sure all connection are tight and not heating up . Make sure no wiring or cords are in contact with a heat source .

#3 Issue Excessive Heat from HID Lighting

Care should be taken to be sure nothing flammable is in contact or near your bulb . A good safety
measure to be taken here if you can afford it is an high temp shutoff for your light . If the temp reaches a predetermined level it shuts your light down as an safety measure . Another good measure to take is at least at the bare minimum keep a fire extinguisher near your grow.

Happy and Safe Growing to All !


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## Whodoo (Aug 5, 2010)

All Very good suggestions. Thanks. Especially about the extension cords. I would add - never roll up extension cords and leave them that way while in use - they could melt. I don't think I would be happy with a circuit I was using at a rate more 2/3 of it's amp rating either.

I have to rewire my panel to alter a 220V 50A stove breaker circuit, and run wire and stuff to get 120V with enough ampacity (izzat a word?) at my room. I've never done anything like that before. It should be fun.


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## kingofqueen (Aug 5, 2010)

Your welcome Whodoo !


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## kingofqueen (Aug 5, 2010)

Yeah ampacity is a word . Is the stove still in use?


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## kingofqueen (Aug 21, 2010)

Mothafuckin bump! Come on safety !


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## kingofqueen (Sep 9, 2010)

bumpity bump!


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## NewClosetGrower (Sep 9, 2010)

awesome thread bro..i am a journeyman (licensed in commerical) electrician..so if you guys have ANY questions feel free to ask...wiring, overloading circuits, or anything of the sort...im more then willing to help


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## medicalgrower12 (Sep 9, 2010)

I am a newbie when it comes to electrical stuff. What should one do if their equipment is reaching the max, or going over 15 amps? I hope this doesn't sound like a stupid question, is it 15 amps for each outlet? When you say home circuit what does that mean exactly?


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## kingofqueen (Sep 9, 2010)

House circuits for general usage are 15 amps . No it doesn't mean you can load it up to 15 amps , to be safe you go 80% of that which is 12 amps . If your loaded up to 15 amps now you should adding another circuit .


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## CypressRyan (Sep 9, 2010)

I have a master lighting controller running 240v, is a 50amp breaker to big for a 4k set-up?


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## NewClosetGrower (Sep 10, 2010)

CypressRyan said:


> I have a master lighting controller running 240v, is a 50amp breaker to big for a 4k set-up?


im not sure what you mean by a 4k set up, sorry man...but as long as it doesnt run at 50 amps, or 80% of 50 amps if its a "continuous load" then you dont have to worry about getting a breaker to big...bigger the better


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## NewClosetGrower (Sep 10, 2010)

medicalgrower12 said:


> I am a newbie when it comes to electrical stuff. What should one do if their equipment is reaching the max, or going over 15 amps? I hope this doesn't sound like a stupid question, is it 15 amps for each outlet? When you say home circuit what does that mean exactly?


if your getting to 80% of the 15amp circuit then you need to find another circuit or add another one like kingofqueen said..."home circuit" is a group of plugs and lights in your house that are connected to a circuit, the breakers in your panel that you flip, there are several of them in your house (each breaker in your panel is a circuit)...so when you have a 15 amp circuit and the things plugged into in are on for more then 2 hours its called a "continuous load" which means your not supposed to go over 80& of that circuit (breaker) size for safety reasons...so if your getting close to it, or you leave your lights on for a long time and the breaker trips, you need to add another circuit or find a new plug..if you have attic access close by and some basic tools i can walk you through how to get another plug where you need it off a diffrent circuit for about 20 bucks in material


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## IAm5toned (Sep 10, 2010)

what size neutral should i pull for a 150 amp, continuous duty service?

the pipe is 375' long.


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## NewClosetGrower (Sep 10, 2010)

IAm5toned said:


> what size neutral should i pull for a 150 amp, continuous duty service?
> 
> the pipe is 375' long.


whats the voltage? thats pretty big for something that needs a neutral


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## SlimDigital (Sep 10, 2010)

Wow great info. I had issues in my previous place where i would always trip the power. I know very litte regarding eletricity. I was running a veg and flower set uo in 1 room. 1 600w light and ballast, 1 4in exhaust and a few air pumps for flower and anyhwere between 8 and 12 43w cfl's. Now I understand the need to space out the load! Blew out my damn 42in flat screen from not having a surge protector


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## CypressRyan (Sep 10, 2010)

NewClosetGrower said:


> im not sure what you mean by a 4k set up, sorry man...but as long as it doesnt run at 50 amps, or 80% of 50 amps if its a "continuous load" then you dont have to worry about getting a breaker to big...bigger the better


I have 4 1000 watt lamps attached to this master controller, I have that wired to the main panel with 8 gauge outdoor-rated, stranded wire with a 50 amp breaker protecting it. Is the 50 amp to much as I still want to have the voltage protection close to the actual amps used. get my question?


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## NewClosetGrower (Sep 10, 2010)

CypressRyan said:


> I have 4 1000 watt lamps attached to this master controller, I have that wired to the main panel with 8 gauge outdoor-rated, stranded wire with a 50 amp breaker protecting it. Is the 50 amp to much as I still want to have the voltage protection close to the actual amps used. get my question?


yeah i get ya man...the way you figure the amps out is simple, you divide the Watts by the Volts. So 4000W/240V=16.6A...so then take 80% percent of that 50amp breaker because of the continuous load and you get 40. So basically your running 17 amps on a 40 amp breaker with the lights...i doubt your controller is powered by the same circuit but if it is make sure you add that in there to, hope this helps


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## NewClosetGrower (Sep 10, 2010)

SlimDigital said:


> Wow great info. I had issues in my previous place where i would always trip the power. I know very litte regarding eletricity. I was running a veg and flower set uo in 1 room. 1 600w light and ballast, 1 4in exhaust and a few air pumps for flower and anyhwere between 8 and 12 43w cfl's. Now I understand the need to space out the load! Blew out my damn 42in flat screen from not having a surge protector


That sucks about your tv man! i had something similar happen to me when i was re wiring my game room last year...anyway, yeah thats a lot of lights to have on at once, plus everything else you had running in your room at the time...when something goes wrong with electricity the reason the breaker trips is because electricity finds the easiest travel path...and on every circuit in a home theres a ground wire running back to the panel. all the ground is there for is safety so theres never elec. on it unless somethings wrong...hence, something messes up, elec. takes the ground back home to trip the breaker because no other elec is on it...sounds kinda confusing i guess...but what im getting at is in your case...for that very moment in time the easiest path what the plug with your tv...


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## kingofqueen (Sep 11, 2010)

NewClosetGrower said:


> awesome thread bro..i am a journeyman (licensed in commerical) electrician..so if you guys have ANY questions feel free to ask...wiring, overloading circuits, or anything of the sort...im more then willing to help


Thanks man ! There is no thread on saftey and with so many newbs throwing grows together I feel its nessesary to have a thread like this .
It doesn't get a lot of hits but its a nessesary thing hate to see someone burn their house down .


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## kingofqueen (Sep 11, 2010)

CypressRyan said:


> I have 4 1000 watt lamps attached to this master controller, I have that wired to the main panel with 8 gauge outdoor-rated, stranded wire with a 50 amp breaker protecting it. Is the 50 amp to much as I still want to have the voltage protection close to the actual amps used. get my question?


Consider the lighting controller a subfeed. The controller it self should have its own overcurrent protection . IN this case you just need to protect the wire feedin the controller . You said #8 so a 50a breaker is perfect for this scenerio .

If your lighting controller doesn't have its own overcurrent protection you have to rate your breaker to protect the controller thus you would size your breaker based on 4k ,which is 16.66 amps at 240 v . Then you would need a 20 a breaker .


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## CypressRyan (Sep 11, 2010)

kingofqueen said:


> Consider the lighting controller a subfeed. The controller it self should have its own overcurrent protection . IN this case you just need to protect the wire feedin the controller . You said #8 so a 50a breaker is perfect for this scenerio .
> 
> If your lighting controller doesn't have its own overcurrent protection you have to rate your breaker to protect the controller thus you would size your breaker based on 4k ,which is 16.66 amps at 240 v . Then you would need a 20 a breaker .


Check, Check thanks for the knowledge.. these are the details I lack



NewClosetGrower said:


> yeah i get ya man...the way you figure the amps out is simple, you divide the Watts by the Volts. So 4000W/240V=16.6A...so then take 80% percent of that 50amp breaker because of the continuous load and you get 40. So basically your running 17 amps on a 40 amp breaker with the lights...i doubt your controller is powered by the same circuit but if it is make sure you add that in there to, hope this helps


thank you as well sir


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## NewClosetGrower (Sep 11, 2010)

CypressRyan said:


> Check, Check thanks for the knowledge.. these are the details I lack
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## NewClosetGrower (Sep 11, 2010)

kingofqueen said:


> Thanks man ! There is no thread on saftey and with so many newbs throwing grows together I feel its nessesary to have a thread like this .
> It doesn't get a lot of hits but its a nessesary thing hate to see someone burn their house down .


Hey bro, im very new here and i dont want to impose on any one, but i can honestly say im a complete noob at growing, im underway with my first grow now, but i am very skilled with electrical and you seem to be yourself...maybe we can approach some admins ( i dont even know who they are on here yet, lol) and ask them to put up a big stickied section where people can ask you and me questions about wiring up there grow rooms and we can lead them in a safe direction...just an idea but i really dont want to see anyone burn there house down, and then go to prison for the cops finding out it was a grow room that caused it


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## kingofqueen (Sep 11, 2010)

They catch on when a page get's alot of attention . And there is no electrical saftey info on here so we will see . I know one of the moderaters i could ask but gonna let it take off first .


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## NewClosetGrower (Sep 11, 2010)

yeah i hear ya man...what i meant what they should add an electrical safety topic on the main page and have people who know about it answer the questions...let me know what the mod says...


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## MeanGreenFarmingMachine (Sep 11, 2010)

kingofqueen said:


> Welcome all ! Electrical safety is an subject area that often gets overlooked. With so many new growers I think there is some need for concern in this area . I,m an 16 yr electrician and am going to share my knowledge from being on construction sites for 16 yrs to compile this article to keep our grows and homes safe !
> 
> 
> The Basics
> ...


Yo i dont think you know how much this helps ! thx


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## 420kushhaze (Sep 20, 2010)

Awsome thread guys...it shood b a sticky!!!


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## NewClosetGrower (Sep 21, 2010)

thanks man, yeah they should make something a sticky where people can ask questions and get them answered


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## reggaerican (Sep 21, 2010)

this is an awsome thread.. im a long time electrician also and so many times in the pot buis. stoners will totally screw up a simple electrical job turning the grow room into a ticking time bomb..tick tick tick tick tock! and the house burns down..


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## NewClosetGrower (Sep 21, 2010)

reggaerican said:


> this is an awsome thread.. im a long time electrician also and so many times in the pot buis. stoners will totally screw up a simple electrical job turning the grow room into a ticking time bomb..tick tick tick tick tock! and the house burns down..


yeah man it doesnt take much if you dont know what your doing


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## plsfoldthx (Sep 21, 2010)

Hey guys I bought an extension cord rated for 13Amps.... It will be plugged into a 120V outlet. So as long as I'm drawing less than 1560 Watts (120 x 13) through the cord, I should be fine right?


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## NewClosetGrower (Sep 21, 2010)

plsfoldthx said:


> Hey guys I bought an extension cord rated for 13Amps.... It will be plugged into a 120V outlet. So as long as I'm drawing less than 1560 Watts (120 x 13) through the cord, I should be fine right?


yeah bro you will be fine, there is something called a continuous load however. and that means that if whatever you are using is going to be on for more then 2 hours you should not use more then 80% of the maxiumum operating range...ive been an electrician for 6 years and have never really seen this cause a problem.


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## bewareofdogandowner (Sep 21, 2010)

high heat requires ampacity adjustments. higher temps require bigger wire at the same current draw, than cooler temps.
see nec 310.16


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## NewClosetGrower (Sep 21, 2010)

i havnt opened my code book since i got out of school, lol...i know i have the new one but i dont have any idea where it is, lol...but you are right bro. Heat does play a role in ampacity, its somewhat similar to voltage drop



bewareofdogandowner said:


> high heat requires ampacity adjustments. higher temps require bigger wire at the same current draw, than cooler temps.
> see nec 310.16


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## kingofqueen (Sep 21, 2010)

plsfoldthx said:


> Hey guys I bought an extension cord rated for 13Amps.... It will be plugged into a 120V outlet. So as long as I'm drawing less than 1560 Watts (120 x 13) through the cord, I should be fine right?


Well 80 percent of the 13a is 1248 watts . U have to figure 80% of your load . So stay under 1248w and yes your fine . I always buy my cords rated at 20 a heavy duty ones .


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## kingofqueen (Sep 21, 2010)

bewareofdogandowner said:


> high heat requires ampacity adjustments. higher temps require bigger wire at the same current draw, than cooler temps.
> see nec 310.16


You are correct sir . THe higher the temputure the less ampacity a conductor can carry . Heat kills everthing .


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## kingofqueen (Sep 21, 2010)

bewareofdogandowner said:


> high heat requires ampacity adjustments. higher temps require bigger wire at the same current draw, than cooler temps.
> see nec 310.16


However the enviroment we live in is'nt hot enough to justify adjustments for heat , unless your in an attic , lol .


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## bewareofdogandowner (Sep 21, 2010)

kingofqueen said:


> However the enviroment we live in is'nt hot enough to justify adjustments for heat , unless your in an attic , lol .


all things electric put off heat. ballasts, lamps, panels...heat is the by product of electricity.
i would never use a 14 awg for any grow room. 
#12 only for branch ckts at least that gives me 17 amps for my 80 percent OCPD load.
always leave room for expansion.
when fans start up they can draw up to 250% of there rated load.
size continuous loads at 100% and upsize wire and breaker accordingly.


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## bewareofdogandowner (Sep 21, 2010)

plsfoldthx said:


> Hey guys I bought an extension cord rated for 13Amps.... It will be plugged into a 120V outlet. So as long as I'm drawing less than 1560 Watts (120 x 13) through the cord, I should be fine right?


cord rated for 13amps at 100 percent. keep your load to 80 percent or less of your wire rating to be safe.


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## kingofqueen (Sep 22, 2010)

bewareofdogandowner said:


> all things electric put off heat. ballasts, lamps, panels...heat is the by product of electricity.
> i would never use a 14 awg for any grow room.
> #12 only for branch ckts at least that gives me 17 amps for my 80 percent OCPD load.
> always leave room for expansion.
> ...


 Woah there buddy! Back the truck up ! Nobody said electrical devices don't generate heat ! He specificall asked if a 13 a cord is sufficient if he stays under 1560 watts . Where did you get high heat from? Or are u just arguing with yourself just to fuck my thread up? Most conducters are rated at 60 degrees c or 140 f . Yeah moters have start up current it lasts for a milisecond duh ! Yeah moters get hot they are constructed of materials rated for it and the heat it normally generates is factored in to name plate rating . So unless his cord is running in an area of 140 f there's not a problem , we are talking about a personal grow not a 100 plant grow op or somthing ! lmao Love how ppl dont read the whole thread and chime trying to answer already answered questions . Also love how ppl become an appentice or helper then after a yr of work consider themselves a self proclaimed super electrician guru ! You should be more respectful of people's threads mabey you need to go read "Before you post " thread . Peace I'm dun !


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## kingofqueen (Sep 22, 2010)

bewareofdogandowner said:


> cord rated for 13amps at 100 percent. keep your load to 80 percent or less of your wire rating to be safe.


 This sounds really familiar . Mabey because he has been give a similar answer twice ?lamo


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## kingofqueen (Sep 22, 2010)

bewareofdogandowner said:


> high heat requires ampacity adjustments. higher temps require bigger wire at the same current draw, than cooler temps.
> see nec 310.16


Who said it was hot? can u qoute that from the guy ?


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## NewClosetGrower (Sep 22, 2010)

kingofqueen said:


> Also love how ppl become an appentice or helper then after a yr of work consider themselves a self proclaimed super electrician guru !


lol yeah its always funny to see an apprentice think they know everything about electrical after a year or 2 of school.


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## kingofqueen (Sep 22, 2010)

NewClosetGrower said:


> lol yeah its always funny to see an apprentice think they know everything about electrical after a year or 2 of school.


 Yeah hate that shit .Almost as bad as ppl who read the thread title then skip to the last page to answer not knowing if what they are answering with has already been used . Ignorance is bliss .


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## NewClosetGrower (Sep 22, 2010)

i would have to agree bro, do you do commercial or residential?


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## kingofqueen (Sep 22, 2010)

NewClosetGrower said:


> i would have to agree bro, do you do commercial or residential?


I have done it all throughout my career started of in residential ,then commercial,and eventually industrial . I'm a pipe guy . Give me a rack of conduit to run leave me alone and i,m happy. I,ve run it all emt,rigid,pvc coated rigid, aluminum, stainless steel , it sucks when u get to that age where they have to invent a new product for you to actually see something new nothing really thrills me anymore about electrical work .


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## NewClosetGrower (Sep 22, 2010)

kingofqueen said:


> I have done it all throughout my career started of in residential ,then commercial,and eventually industrial . I'm a pipe guy . Give me a rack of conduit to run leave me alone and i,m happy. I,ve run it all emt,rigid,pvc coated rigid, aluminum, stainless steel , it sucks when u get to that age where they have to invent a new product for you to actually see something new nothing really thrills me anymore about electrical work .


i hear ya man, im starting to get a little bored myself. I have been a foreman for my company for about a year now. im getting really sick of what seems like babysitting even though my company doesnt fuck around and fire someone on the spot. but sitting in the trailer checking print after print order material...whatever you get it....its getting old. i want to go back out and work but i know i will regret that in a few years...it is fun to step in when i have a chance and run some pipe...matter of fact i made a wire cart out of pipe to run the ded. circuit to my grow closet...yeah running pipe and pulling circuits is about the only thing i still somewhat enjoy about being an electrician...im running an 8 story Marriott hotel right now (8 with the roof) and when its done im hoping they will move me to this 7 year hospital job we just started and let me just run a floor or 2 so i can get my hands dirty again and not have to paper push


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## kingofqueen (Sep 22, 2010)

Are you in colorado ? Denver area?


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## NewClosetGrower (Sep 22, 2010)

no man, im in florida



kingofqueen said:


> Are you in colorado ? Denver area?


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## kingofqueen (Nov 3, 2010)

bump bump bump


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## NewClosetGrower (Nov 3, 2010)

king, whats going on stranger...how have you been?


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## kingofqueen (Nov 3, 2010)

NewClosetGrower said:


> king, whats going on stranger...how have you been?


Been doing alright hanging in there . Just about 4 weeks into flowering now so it,s getting interesting.How u doing ?


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## NewClosetGrower (Nov 3, 2010)

doing alright man, im about a week into flower myself


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## PeterJTown (Nov 11, 2010)

Hello gentlemen

In the name of safety I have a couple of setup questions for you.

I have a new space that I am setting up and it is time to make some electrical decisions. I have two rooms and have already run the wire for the aux lights (green bulbs) and the many outlets throughout the two rooms. I have divided the outlets and lights into 6 circuits that I plan on connecting to 6 30a breakers. I think this is overkill but I have the supplies and I figure why not. How does this part sound?

My real questions come with wiring the main lights. I want to wire the lights for each room through their own timer. (I was thinking an Intermatic outdoor 40a timer, but I am open to what you think will work best) I want to run two wires from the breaker to the 2 timers and then up to the roof where the ballasts will be. My max loads will be 2000w and 5000w, so 8.33a and 20.83a in each room. I was planning on putting each of these on 50a breakers. Which is plenty givin the 80% continues load rule. So my questions are&#8230;

1) I should definitely go 240 over 120? Will this save me money?
2) Is it possible/how would I connect up to 5 lights to a timer? There&#8217;s no 240v splitters, can I just make one?

We&#8217;ll start with those two for now, I know I will think of more as we get rollin. 

I appreciate your time and advice, thx.


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## kingofqueen (Nov 12, 2010)

Hello and welcome ! For your 2 questions, 8.3 a is fine on one 120v circuit . You will not save money going 240 v the load will be the same but split over two hots instead of one with 120v.240 v breakers and parts cost more.
Splitters?How many lights you planning on running off one ballast?Most people run an individual cable for each light back to the corresponding ballst . 

The rest is unclear what you mean , I,ll explain this though for an example.

Your lighting is always powered on a dedicated circuit with no power outlets running off it just the lights.You dont want something you have plugged to trip the brk and your lights go out in the middle of a cycle.1 20a 120v line will provide all the power you need for 8.3 a of lighting . 

Your power outlet circuits would normally be either 15 or 20 amp . #14 for the 15a cir or #12 for the 20. . 1 circuit for each room is plenty.Sounds like your just trying to overkill everything instead off adding up your total loads lighting and power then base your circuits off of that.

So in conclusion what size wire did you run?Because that determines your breaker size.Yes 6 circuits is way plenty.Run your lights individually 1 light 1 cable one ballast .A 40a timer is fine although it only has to be rated for what circuit size your using ie a timer rated for 20 amps is fine.Did I clear anything up?


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## PeterJTown (Nov 13, 2010)

Thanks for the response!

Ok, I&#8217;m going to take a second shot at explaining myself clearly. Thanks for the patience.

I have 2 rooms and have wired 10 outlets and 2 lights between them. The 2 lights will be 30w green cfls to be able to light the room when the &#8220;main&#8221; lights are out. I have wired these outlets and lights with 12-2 Romex and split them into 6 circuits. I will probably use 15-20a like you suggested because these outlets will have a light load. (pumps, circulation fans, etc.) 6 circuits is overkill but it&#8217;s already installed that way based on someone else&#8217;s advice. 

Now for the main lights, at my max load the rooms will have 2000 and 5000 watts. I was going to use 10-2 Romex for this. I will just go over the wiring of the 5000w room to keep things clear. The way I see it, I will run the 10-2 from the breaker to the timer, (hardwired) then out of the timer to the roof of the 5000w room. Here is where my issues arise and the comment about the splitter comes in. I now have a wire coming from the timer and 5 lights, 5 ballasts, and 5 plugs. 

1) If I do go 240v, how do I connect the 5 plugs from the lights to the Romex coming from the timer?
2) Since I&#8217;m not going to save money should I even mess with going 240v for the lights? What&#8217;s the benefit of 240v? Is it safer to lower the current?

If I kept it 120v then I would put a female plug on the end of the Romex coming from the timer, plug in a surge protector or splitter, and then plug the lights into the sp or splitter. 

3) Can I combine the 6 circuits into 3? (combine them into pairs)

Thanks again for your responses, it&#8217;s a big help.


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## kingofqueen (Nov 13, 2010)

#1 Your timer runs the ballasts . 1 LIGHT ,1 CABLE RUN TO YOUR BALLAST , YOUR TIMERS CONTROLS the ballasts . Have you ever wired anything I must ask because your asking basic questions and I'm uncomfortable giving advice to someone inexperianced with electricity.
#2 dont bother with 240v lighting its unnessary .
#3 yes just double up on your breaker .


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## PeterJTown (Nov 16, 2010)

Yes, I have some experiance with wiring and electricity. I'm missing the part in my questions where I sound like an idiot. lol 
What it sounds like you are suggesting is if I have 5 lights then I'm going to have 5 timers and 5 runs of wire to each ballast. I'm trying to avoid this.

I had mentioned in my last post that "If I kept it 120v then I would put a female plug on the end of the Romex coming from the timer, plug in a surge protector or splitter, and then plug the lights into the sp or splitter." I know this works and could wire it this way and call it a day. 

I just wanted to know the best way to do this same hook up with 240v? 

As you suggested, I might just stick to 120v as I have experiance and am comfortable with it. However, I still hear about how 240v is the way to go because it provides cleaner power and easier start ups for the ballasts.


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## kingofqueen (Nov 16, 2010)

Ofcourse you can run more than one ballast on one timer .Just like you said above . As long as you dont exceed the max load on the timer . Put all your veg ballasts on one timer and all your flower lights on another timer . Neither of those loads are too much for one timer . 240v ballasts do start up easier but now we are splitting hairs it's not worth it stick with 120 . The only ballasts that are "cleaner" and more efficent are electronic ballasts ,but they are not good for longevity . I often here people say they fail prematurely and they are more expensive . I use all standard magnetic core ballasts and caps .


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## PeterJTown (Nov 17, 2010)

alright then it's settled, I'll go with 120. 

Thanks for your time and knowledge!


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## kingofqueen (Nov 17, 2010)

Your welcome ! Are you doing a journal yet or you still finishing up your grow area ?


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## Zensai (Nov 17, 2010)

PeterJTown said:


> Thanks for the response!
> 
> Ok, Im going to take a second shot at explaining myself clearly. Thanks for the patience.
> 
> ...


Running 240 will be less per month. I'm running 6000w of Lights and I'm running it on a Intermatic Timer. I installed a 40a breaker, ran 8-2 from the panel to the timer. From the timers relays I ran 2x 10-2 to 2x boxes that had 2x 240v dupelx plugs. Its not really that hard to wire or setup. The Duplex plugs are like 7$ a piece for 6-15R, and you can find timers that are 30-40$ and you buy a little bit of wire.


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## kingofqueen (Nov 17, 2010)

how are you figuring 240 v is cheaper for month ? It might be more ideal but not cheaper a 1000w or whatever watt light uses the same amount of electricity regardless if it's 120v or 240v . The only way it gets cheaper is if your in a commercial setting where 277v is availible .


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## kingofqueen (Nov 17, 2010)

PeterJTown said:


> alright then it's settled, I'll go with 120.
> 
> Thanks for your time and knowledge!


Dude 8000 watts of lighting is 66 amps of load I was thinking 800 thats alot to tackle if you have never wired that much b4 and if you have you wouldnt be asking these paragraphs of questions about wiring your lights a an "electrical saftey thread " You need a hey wire my lights for me thread .Sorry bro used up all my patience on this . I sent you a pm also .


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## NewClosetGrower (Nov 17, 2010)

your more of a man than me bro, i wish i could have been your apprentice...



kingofqueen said:


> Dude 8000 watts of lighting is 66 amps of load I was thinking 800 thats alot to tackle if you have never wired that much b4 and if you have you wouldnt be asking these paragraphs of questions about wiring your lights a an "electrical saftey thread " You need a hey wire my lights for me thread .Sorry bro used up all my patience on this . I sent you a pm also .


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## kingofqueen (Nov 17, 2010)

NewClosetGrower said:


> your more of a man than me bro, i wish i could have been your apprentice...


I know man I was just trying to be patient . I've seen threads turn against people and thats what happened . On one hand help this person if they can be helped ,on the other be a dick . Mabey there's a middle point I,m not capable of but I've accumalated 1 infraction already and it's not good to be the person who starts threads that end in arguement . So yeah kinda ticked to have mistook 800 for 8000 over all that unnessary bs . Sometimes i wonder if people just make stuff up just to see how far they can take it . Your not gonna catch me putting 8000w in the same building I live in what a fire hazard . That enviroment crates a different classification of building standards and by code I,m sure it's not none of the materials we use nor could it be listed in a dwelling . I personally would,t advise anyone to run that much in a residence . Then your dealing with people lives . Any advice I give on here is for personal medical grows .


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## RadMan55 (Nov 17, 2010)

Awesome thread.. Subbed ")


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## sweetswisher (Nov 17, 2010)

anyone help I have a 400 watt pl lighting hps ballast and reflector It's always worked fine and I moved it to a different location in a different house and it hasn't worked right since. When I plug it in the ballast makes noise like its working but the light just flickers and sometimes it doesn't even flicker. Is my ballast shot or do I need a new capacitor? please any help is appreciated and Ive tried 3 different bulbs so its not the bulb


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## kingofqueen (Nov 17, 2010)

9 times out of ten yes it would be the capacitor . Check your socket somtimes it can be the problem and be sure all connections are tight b4 you you buy a capacitor . The coils rarely go bad but when they do there is no doubt because they usally burn up and short the breaker .


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## sweetswisher (Nov 17, 2010)

I'm thinking now that its the ignitor Im buying a new one and replacing the old hopefully it works


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## NewClosetGrower (Nov 18, 2010)

kingofqueen said:


> I know man I was just trying to be patient . I've seen threads turn against people and thats what happened . On one hand help this person if they can be helped ,on the other be a dick . Mabey there's a middle point I,m not capable of but I've accumalated 1 infraction already and it's not good to be the person who starts threads that end in arguement . So yeah kinda ticked to have mistook 800 for 8000 over all that unnessary bs . Sometimes i wonder if people just make stuff up just to see how far they can take it . Your not gonna catch me putting 8000w in the same building I live in what a fire hazard . That enviroment crates a different classification of building standards and by code I,m sure it's not none of the materials we use nor could it be listed in a dwelling . I personally would,t advise anyone to run that much in a residence . Then your dealing with people lives . Any advice I give on here is for personal medical grows .


yeah 8000w is some serious power, especially when were talking about lights in your home...you should see this pm i got the other day from a guy with a knob and tube system in his apartment complex needed help with amperage for lighting


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## kingofqueen (Nov 18, 2010)

Wow havent seen knob and tube in awile . That stuff is scary to crawl around with in a tight attic . Yeah 8000w is asking for trouble at home . Someone inexperianced with electricity should really have a professional involved hands on with something like that .


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## RadMan55 (Nov 28, 2010)

Need a little help with my first time grow.. Trying to get it right.

My nephew (4th year electrical apprentice) is helping me hook up a board and he needs a little help from a master electrician. It's a weekend, his buddies aren't around and I'd like to get a move on 

We are attempting to hook up a 240V system via a 30amp breaker at the main panel using 60 amp rated wire going into to a 240 timer and 240 coming out into a splitter box where we split off into two 120V circuits which powers up two 15 AMP plugs each.

We have power going to all the plugs but when plug anything into any of the two plugs on the left you get nothing even though the tester is showing that the plugs have juice flowing in and out of them. Two plugs on the right work just fine...

My knowledge of wiring something up goes as far as turning off a breaker off before I exchange a plug or a light switch..

Can anybody lend a hand please...


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## kingofqueen (Nov 28, 2010)

Hey there just read over your post and with the info provided ,good pics btw, I'd say that the plugs on the left mabey have lost the nuetrel(white wire) connection . To check this with a meter read from the 2 verticle slots on the plug ,then read from the taller of the two slots which should be your hot 120v to the ground the round hole at the bottom . If you read 120 hot to nuetrel your good there but if not you need to turn the power off and back trace the nutrels for that set of plugs. You should read 120 hot to ground no matter what but def sounds like a loose nuetrel.


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## RadMan55 (Nov 28, 2010)

Thanks K of Q.. 

Nudder question.. 

I'm running 4 1000w electronic ballasts with 9.5 AMP ratings simultaneously and will more than likely power the scrubber(s) off one of the 120 circuits or if I get more than one, then one on each of the 120 circuits.. Will the 30 AMP breaker be enough or do I need to go to 40 amps..


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## kingofqueen (Nov 28, 2010)

Well thats 38a of lighting alone , U will trip the 30a brk for sure . For the load you got put it on atleast a 50 that give you 40a of safe load to use (80% of 50) . That should allow room to power scrubbers to depending how big and how many you go .


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## RadMan55 (Nov 28, 2010)

I thought 30a was a little light but then again I never knew the amp size of the ballasts before I got them.. Will get that issue taken care of ASAP on Monday.. Thanks..


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## RadMan55 (Nov 28, 2010)

kingofqueen said:


> Hey there just read over your post and with the info provided ,good pics btw, I'd say that the plugs on the left mabey have lost the nuetrel(white wire) connection . To check this with a meter read from the 2 verticle slots on the plug ,then read from the taller of the two slots which should be your hot 120v to the ground the round hole at the bottom . If you read 120 hot to nuetrel your good there but if not you need to turn the power off and back trace the nutrels for that set of plugs. You should read 120 hot to ground no matter what but def sounds like a loose nuetrel.


Hi K of Q.. Checked all the leads and everything was nice and tight.. Don't have a meter so I couldn't check anything..

Pulled the panel off the wall and will photograph all the connections in greater detail.. 

Not sure if the timer is connected correctly so I'll scan and post the schematic for it tomorrow.. 

Maybe we can set something up whereby anybody will be able to put one of these boards together with your guidance 

Cheers


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## mrmadcow (Nov 29, 2010)

RadMan55 said:


> ...My nephew (4th year electrical apprentice) is helping me hook up a board and he needs a little help from a master electrician....We are attempting to hook up a 240V system via a 30amp breaker at the main panel using 60 amp rated wire going into to a 240 timer and 240 coming out into a splitter box where we split off into two 120V circuits which powers up two 15 AMP plugs each.


OK I know you decided to up the breaker to a 220 50 amp breaker.
the pictures show 14 gauge wire going to each outlet but you have no fuse/breaker to protect you from an overload other than the 50 amp main breaker befor the timer so in the event of a short, you could be drawing 48 amps through a outlet rated 15 amps and a foot or so of 14 gauge romex without tripping a breaker.
 a definate fire hazard & in violation of several codes!   
you really need a sub panel after the timer to properly fuse the outlets.for the $30-40 it would cost including breakers,it would be foolish not to.
 & Shame on your nephew, a 4th year electrical apprentice should know better!!


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## RadMan55 (Nov 29, 2010)

mrmadcow said:


> OK I know you decided to up the breaker to a 220 50 amp breaker.
> the pictures show 14 gauge wire going to each outlet but you have no fuse/breaker to protect you from an overload other than the 50 amp main breaker befor the timer so in the event of a short, you could be drawing 48 amps through a outlet rated 15 amps and a foot or so of 14 gauge romex without tripping a breaker.
> a definate fire hazard & in violation of several codes!
> you really need a sub panel after the timer to properly fuse the outlets.for the $30-40 it would cost including breakers,it would be foolish not to.
> & Shame on your nephew, a 4th year electrical apprentice should know better!!


I like the sub panel idea and will get on it..


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## phxfire (Nov 29, 2010)

kingofqueen said:


> House circuits for general usage are 15 amps . No it doesn't mean you can load it up to 15 amps , to be safe you go 80% of that which is 12 amps . If your loaded up to 15 amps now you should adding another circuit .


When you say add another curcuit.... WHAT DO YOU MEAN?

I am try to run (4) 600W HPS light in a house... Suggestions???


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## TheGuerrillaBuddha (Nov 29, 2010)

Any ideas on how you would hook up 6-1k lights. It needs to all work off of a control outlet. I am going to use a CAP 8 controller to plug the lights in. witch will have a control plug that goes into a timer. What should I run that to? I am on 120 power so I am thinking I would need at least an 80 A breaker correct? 6000/120=50 50/.8= 62.5 A, so I would figure just a straight up 80 amp for safety. How much power can you pull into a building? Is it generally a standard number of Amps or is it unlimited? Not completely sure about electricity (I am having a professional do the work) Haven't seen the box I'm drawing from but I would think if it were like my parents house its a bunch of 15 amp breakers lined up right? And then You can switch say 4 15 Amps for a 60? Hot or Cold


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## TheGuerrillaBuddha (Nov 29, 2010)

Also I don't see any controllers that can handle that many amps in 120V so is it easy to switch to 240?


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## str8ballin (Nov 29, 2010)

Does anyone know about cfm's, setting up a room 10 x 6 x 7 room??? Will a 95 cfm blower fan exhaust this room properly???


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## TheGuerrillaBuddha (Nov 29, 2010)

http://www.plantlightinghydroponics.com/cap-mlc24x-24-light-controller-pi-2453.html?image=0

Here you go quite overkill but if I wanted to not rewire to 240 it looks like that's it. This is how you do this professionally. Not just little metal boxes with wires attached to a piece of plywood. I saw some news article somewhere in Denver that they had like 12 house fires in 3 months in one area due to improper electrical work. This controller is like bigtime piece of equipment, and it's only 600 bucks. I mean is risking burning your house down to save a couple hundred bucks worth it? Cause if so enjoy prison. It's one thing if you destroy property. How would you feel if someone was hurt in a fire cause of some crappy wiring? Just couldn't fathom it.


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## Canabian420 (Nov 30, 2010)

so what if you use a light outlet in your ceiling for your source of electricity? maybe 300-400W? using an adapter with an outlet in the light socket with cords being plugged into the adapter?


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## kingofqueen (Dec 1, 2010)

There is another electrician on here with a thread just for answering electrical questions I'd suggest asking alot of these questions over there. This thread is for general saftey . I'm not here all the time and rather not give out complicated advice for saftey reasons .


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## NewClosetGrower (Dec 1, 2010)

kingofqueen said:


> There is another electrician on here with a thread just for answering electrical questions I'd suggest asking alot of these questions over there. This thread is for general saftey . I'm not here all the time and rather not give out complicated advice for saftey reasons .


im pretty sure hes talking about me...i have an electrical questions thread. but im not about to answer questions pertaining to how to wire up 6000 WATTS of grow lights in your home, or how easy it it to switch from 120v to 240v in your home. its just not safe...sorry dude

Canabian420...i dont understand


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## kingofqueen (Dec 1, 2010)

Nope not talking about u .


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## NewClosetGrower (Dec 1, 2010)

haha great


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## Canabian420 (Dec 1, 2010)

Canabian420 said:


> so what if you use a light outlet in your ceiling for your source of electricity? maybe 300-400W? using an adapter with an outlet in the light socket with cords being plugged into the adapter?


is this safe?


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## mrmadcow (Dec 2, 2010)

Canabian420 said:


> is this safe?


depends on a lot of things, how old is the wiring in the house? if its less than 40 yrs old,3-400 watts should be OK. if its 80 yrs old, I would not go over 100 watts. & either way using an adaptor to get power out of a light socket wont have a ground so I would limit it to fans & other devices that use a 2 prong male plug.


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## kingofqueen (Dec 2, 2010)

* Grow room Electrical Safety Guidelines*

Where does this say "help me burn my house down?" Saftey guidlines PERIOD ! Hire an electrician or find a buddy thats one . Not here to teach the unexperianced electricity . If your worried about your setup I'd be more than glad to look it over and point out issues , but how to wire it , NO move along to someone else . Don't get me wrong I love to help out ppl especially fellow growers , but electricity is very dangerous to work with a silent killer that can grab ahold of you, shake u violently, and leave u unconscience or dead ! I have been there and it is never any fun to get your dick knocked into the dirt !


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## kingofqueen (Dec 2, 2010)

And that doesn't mean others are welcome to answer the questions , get the eff out if you think so this is my thread and I'm not tolerating it .


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## Dr. G (Dec 2, 2010)

Preach on brother...I'm in the process of building a new room and it need power badly! Im got an old trailer and a detached 2 car garage. The garage has power but it's on one pussy circuit that goes to the trailer...so my thoughts are to at least run a hefty new circuit. If not a new sub panel box to my garage? Do I just hollar at the power co or can we do this?


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## kingofqueen (Dec 2, 2010)

Seriously ? Read or reread post 93 .


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## NewClosetGrower (Dec 2, 2010)

holy shit i cant stop laughing...just holler at the power co man, theyll walk you through a sub panel over the phone


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## MasterOfKushes (Dec 2, 2010)

Dr. G said:


> Do I just hollar at the power co or can we do this?


THis is something you can do yourself. If you are comfortable with electricity then read up. If not call an electrician. DO NOT CALL THE POWER CO! I live in CA and my circuit breaker is on the exterior of my house AND its recessed into the stucko. If it werent for this i would have done my panel myself. Im doing a 240 subox tomorrow. I can post the process for you if you like.


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## Dr. G (Dec 2, 2010)

kingofqueen said:


> Seriously ? Read or reread post 93 .


Sorry yo.. I was way back in the thread, and Im new to this forum stuff... im NOT trying to call the power co! just want a few circuits in my garage. What can I do to prep it out enough so an electrician could just hook it to my panel?


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## Dr. G (Dec 2, 2010)

MasterOfKushes said:


> THis is something you can do yourself. If you are comfortable with electricity then read up. If not call an electrician. DO NOT CALL THE POWER CO! I live in CA and my circuit breaker is on the exterior of my house AND its recessed into the stucko. If it werent for this i would have done my panel myself. Im doing a 240 subox tomorrow. I can post the process for you if you like.


That would be pretty sick!


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## kingofqueen (Dec 3, 2010)

MasterOfKushes said:


> THis is something you can do yourself. If you are comfortable with electricity then read up. If not call an electrician. DO NOT CALL THE POWER CO! I live in CA and my circuit breaker is on the exterior of my house AND its recessed into the stucko. If it werent for this i would have done my panel myself. Im doing a 240 subox tomorrow. I can post the process for you if you like.


Don't post it here bro !


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