# Proper way to flush in hydroponics?



## Tmac4302 (Feb 18, 2012)

I'm using a waterfarm and have a flushing agent, Final Phase. How do I go about using it properly to flush my plant before harvest? Do I just use it at recommended dose and run it in pH'd water for a week? Or what? 

P.S. I really don't care if you feel it is necessary or not, I just want to know the proper way to go about flushing a hydroponic plant.  

Thanks!
Tmac


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## edsthreads (Feb 18, 2012)

You should take out the top half of your water farm and flush it with un-ph'd water + your flush solution (like 3 x the capacity of the top half of the waterfarm) Then fill up your res with normal tap water & feed for about 7-10 days.. jobs a goodun'


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## CEEJR (Feb 18, 2012)

I used florakleen per directions ln jug to flush my farm nice white ash in the bowl after combustion.

Get ready for an epic flushing argument.


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## Bernie420 (Feb 18, 2012)

New at this but wanted to say that I am a fan of the flush. The idea is there just dont know how much good it really does for taste etc. When I flush my plants that I only used the floral clean for a few days then I just used water.

And I changed my water every two days. I found out that after I changed my water and had a feeding my ppm would rise back up so changing the water out helps keep it down.


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## Warlock1369 (Feb 18, 2012)

I use flora clean and water. Been doing a full week of flush but gonna try a 4 day.


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## TriPurple (Feb 18, 2012)

Tmac4302 said:


> I'm using a waterfarm and have a flushing agent, Final Phase. How do I go about using it properly to flush my plant before harvest? Do I just use it at recommended dose and run it in pH'd water for a week? Or what?
> 
> P.S. I really don't care if you feel it is necessary or not, I just want to know the proper way to go about flushing a hydroponic plant.
> 
> ...


1 day (5) 5 minute flushes every 7 to 14 days depending on the size of your reservoir is a proven method. Plain un PH'd water is fine. You just need to remove the excess salts build up so you don't have nutrient lock. Then your back to clean nutrient water & happy roots.........grow some narly bud!!!!


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## Tmac4302 (Feb 19, 2012)

TriPurple said:


> 1 day (5) 5 minute flushes every 7 to 14 days depending on the size of your reservoir is a proven method. Plain un PH'd water is fine. You just need to remove the excess salts build up so you don't have nutrient lock. Then your back to clean nutrient water & happy roots.........grow some narly bud!!!!


I'm not worried about lock out man. Iz gots some gnarly bud almost finished.  I just need to know how to flush my plant with final phase at the end of an 8 week flower.


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## Tmac4302 (Feb 19, 2012)

I've just never done a hydroponic flush with a flushing agent before. So I'm just looking for past experience, tbh.


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## hellraizer30 (Feb 19, 2012)

Fushing agents are not needed! Just use plain water, works the same and it dont cost


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## Warlock1369 (Feb 19, 2012)

Yup. There not needed. Good old tap water is great.


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## Tmac4302 (Feb 19, 2012)

hellraizer30 said:


> Fushing agents are not needed! Just use plain water, works the same and it dont cost


True, but see, I bought it before I knew that information. Soooo I figured I'd just use it since I already forked over the cash for it. I hate marketing and the "MMJ" nutrient scene. VERY misleading on multiple companies part if you were a nub like me and bought your nutes before fully understanding growing. :/


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## TriPurple (Feb 19, 2012)

Tmac4302 said:


> True, but see, I bought it before I knew that information. Soooo I figured I'd just use it since I already forked over the cash for it. I hate marketing and the "MMJ" nutrient scene. VERY misleading on multiple companies part if you were a nub like me and bought your nutes before fully understanding growing. :/


Sorry, I missed the harvest part earlier. It's really a personal choice you'll hear both sides of the flushing controversy here. Personally I think you have to to flush for too many days to really clean out the whole plant & for me that's too many days without nutes. The taste comes from proper curing. I don't notice the diff. between flush & no flush before harvest. I have however noticed a big diff. in taste between hydro & outdoor. I grew my best plant in a corn field that was loaded with nutes. & it tasted great..... the thing grew 10' tall & a stalk as big around as a soda can. I still can't believe it wasn't spotted from the air.


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## wesmokedatkush (Feb 19, 2012)

How do you take care of any buildup in the various blue tubes? I need help with this problem if you have seen it with yours


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## youngtrader9689 (Feb 19, 2012)

change tube


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## Warlock1369 (Feb 19, 2012)

I use black and change out every 2nd grow.


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## Tmac4302 (Feb 19, 2012)

wesmokedatkush said:


> How do you take care of any buildup in the various blue tubes? I need help with this problem if you have seen it with yours


Personally I haven't had any trouble with any build up. I was switching my reservoir every week with another waterfarm's res (that is currently not in use) till the plant got too big. However, If I were to clean it, I would take a 5 gallon bucket with plain pH'd water being bubbled by an air stone, lift the top bucket out of the WF, set it in the 5 gallon bucket, and clean the WF reservoir. I'd use ~35% Hydrogen Perioxide (you can get it at like CVS, Walgreen's, ect.) and scrub away. You could probably take a snake for a drain and snake the blue tube. Then just pour some hydrogen peroxide back through it to wash all of the crud to the inside of the bucket.


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## hellraizer30 (Feb 20, 2012)

Warlock1369 said:


> I use black and change out every 2nd grow.


This is what i do  and between grows i use dawn soap, run it for 24hr and dump and flush out leave no soap film
And breaks up alot of junk! If your using buckets then a shop vac works great!


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## JJFOURTWENTY (Mar 16, 2012)

If you're looking for a happy medium between a short 7 day flush and a yield inhibiting 14 day flush, just split the difference and go with a 10 day flush.

One thing i'd suggest to get the best results in the least amount of time, is to empty the rez, flush for an hour or two, then re-empty the rez and continue from there. This way, instead of having your PPM go from 1200 to 650 (as there's always still some 1200 water still in the table, buckets, etc), you bring it from 1200 to 650 then down even more to 200 or something, for the full flush.

When I flush with RO (10ppm) within a week the PPM rises to around 100ppm (those 90ppm is what's flushed out of the medium minus what the plants are consuming). When that 100ppm drops back below 50 (plants consuming) I know it's ready. About 10 days total.


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## Tmac4302 (Mar 16, 2012)

I think that is why a flushing agent is good to have around. It takes out a lot of PPM's in the reservoir and allows less reservoirs to be exchanged. Not that I'm saying is a bad thing. I try to change my res out twice a day. I don't always get around to that, but by the week of flushing is finished, I've have probably changed 8+ reservoirs of fresh water. With the flushing agent, I just do it every day or every other day. My PPM's were sitting around 13 after I took the plant out of the 3 days of darkness.


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## AWnox (Mar 16, 2012)

IMO flushing for 7-10 days in a hydroponic grow (specially a Waterfarm) unnecessarily starves the plant. A Waterfarm specially is a recirculating system that constantly refreshes and balances nutrient solution every few minutes (even less if you have a powerful pump). This provides the roots with a constant supply of fresh nutrient and by the time she's ready to harvest she has grown accustomed to drinking and replenishing her solution faster than a normal soil grow. For me by week 8 (Indica dom strains) most of the time she drinks close to a gallon a day, sometimes I've seen more; meaning that she replenishes and/or circulates fresh nutrient solution every day; meaning letting her starve for a week is really unnecessary. I just flush the Waterfarm 2-3 days before harvest with ph'ed water and molasses then let her die in the dark for 36 hours then chop chop. Those extra days that everyone is starving their plants would and could be used for her to feed a bit more and produce more buds. Anyway that's my 2 cents and my personal preference, take it as you may.


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## Tmac4302 (Mar 16, 2012)

AWnox said:


> IMO flushing for 7-10 days in a hydroponic grow (specially a Waterfarm) unnecessarily starves the plant. A Waterfarm specially is a recirculating system that constantly refreshes and balances nutrient solution every few minutes (even less if you have a powerful pump). This provides the roots with a constant supply of fresh nutrient and by the time she's ready to harvest she has grown accustomed to drinking and replenishing her solution faster than a normal soil grow. For me by week 8 (Indica dom strains) most of the time she drinks close to a gallon a day, sometimes I've seen more; meaning that she replenishes and/or circulates fresh nutrient solution every day; meaning letting her starve for a week is really unnecessary. I just flush the Waterfarm 2-3 days before harvest with ph'ed water and molasses then let her die in the dark for 36 hours then chop chop. Those extra days that everyone is starving their plants would and could be used for her to feed a bit more and produce more buds. Anyway that's my 2 cents and my personal preference, take it as you may.


Well, at the time the plant is finishing up, the energy of the plant isn't going towards flower production as it is resin production. That's why we stop high PK bloom boosters at like week 5 or 6 (8-9 week finishing time). At this point in the plants life, there isn't any need for calyxial growth, but maturation of growth already established. This is why you see resin glands turn from clear to cloudy to amber. Now, in the leaves there are nutrients already stored up. When there is no nutrients in the reservoir for the roots to absorb, the plant must get it from somewhere or else all metabolic exchange and any further life in that plant will 100% die. It then eats the remaining nutrients in the leaves to keep itself alive and to resin production. It technically isn't starving. That is a very big misconception. It's just reallocating nutrients already built up in its system and starts to cannibalize. I, and many other growers like Subcool, like to see cannibalization in our plants. We believe that we get better tasting flowers in the end through the plant eating natural carbohydrates and use natural enzymes to break those down. Not to mention that it allows some of the chlorophyll to die off so the true color of the plant comes out (it's just green b/c of chlorophyll). I don't see any loss of growth or resin production stopping nutrients at week 7 out of 8, flushing for 6-12 hours with a flushing agent, and running plain water for a week before putting the plant into darkness.


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## lvtokerr (Mar 16, 2012)

AWnox said:


> IMO flushing for 7-10 days in a hydroponic grow (specially a Waterfarm) unnecessarily starves the plant. A Waterfarm specially is a recirculating system that constantly refreshes and balances nutrient solution every few minutes (even less if you have a powerful pump). This provides the roots with a constant supply of fresh nutrient and by the time she's ready to harvest she has grown accustomed to drinking and replenishing her solution faster than a normal soil grow. For me by week 8 (Indica dom strains) most of the time she drinks close to a gallon a day, sometimes I've seen more; meaning that she replenishes and/or circulates fresh nutrient solution every day; meaning letting her starve for a week is really unnecessary. I just flush the Waterfarm 2-3 days before harvest with ph'ed water and molasses then let her die in the dark for 36 hours then chop chop. Those extra days that everyone is starving their plants would and could be used for her to feed a bit more and produce more buds. Anyway that's my 2 cents and my personal preference, take it as you may.


x2

I just add ro water when I want to start my week of flushing. I don't like starving my fat mamas.


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## AWnox (Mar 16, 2012)

Tmac4302 said:


> Well, at the time the plant is finishing up, the energy of the plant isn't going towards flower production as it is resin production. That's why we stop high PK bloom boosters at like week 5 or 6 (8-9 week finishing time). At this point in the plants life, there isn't any need for calyxial growth, but maturation of growth already established. This is why you see resin glands turn from clear to cloudy to amber. Now, in the leaves there are nutrients already stored up. When there is no nutrients in the reservoir for the roots to absorb, the plant must get it from somewhere or else all metabolic exchange and any further life in that plant will 100% die. It then eats the remaining nutrients in the leaves to keep itself alive and to resin production. It technically isn't starving. That is a very big misconception. It's just reallocating nutrients already built up in its system and starts to cannibalize. I, and many other growers like Subcool, like to see cannibalization in our plants. We believe that we get better tasting flowers in the end through the plant eating natural carbohydrates and use natural enzymes to break those down. Not to mention that it allows some of the chlorophyll to die off so the true color of the plant comes out (it's just green b/c of chlorophyll). I don't see any loss of growth or resin production stopping nutrients at week 7 out of 8, flushing for 6-12 hours with a flushing agent, and running plain water for a week before putting the plant into darkness.


Very well put. Although IMO with a waterfarm specially the plant seems to use more nutrients faster than usual. For example if I put too much P or K I can see the ill effects literally hours after I pour it in the reservoir. For those 2-3 days before harvest she uses those "stored nutrient" but I think for a whole week or more in a waterfarm that's more time than the nutrients she has stored. It's just my opinion that at least in a waterfarm or any hydroponic medium flushing for more than 3-4 days is just wasting nutrient consumption that could be used to either further maturity or swell the calyx even more or produce more resin but to each it's own I suppose.

P.S. Taste is all about the curing and drying. I have never ever had a bad tasting or harsh tasting bud flushing just 2-3 days in the WF. I dry for a week and I cure the product at least 2 weeks.


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## Tmac4302 (Mar 16, 2012)

If taste is all about curing and drying, why do you use molasses, sweeting agent, or any high carbo supplement?? There is something called a terpene and flavinoid profile to each plant. Those are the aromas and and taste that the plant produces. There are ways to increase the production of said terpene and flavinoid profiles to each plant through sweeteners and through high carbo supplements in late flowering. Yes, to preserve and to evolve the taste, THAT is in the art of drying and curing. But to say that what the plant ingests and how the plant ingests it has no causal effect on what we taste and smell, is simply ignorant. Why do you think organic medicine tastes and smells better? Because of those natural carbo's and naturally broken down nutrients by beneficial bacteria and those enzymatic process's. The same thing applies to the naturally broken down nutrients the plant has stored away in the fan leaves. If you still see green on the plant's leaves by the time you have "starved" the plant through 7-10 days of flushing and 3 days of darkness, then there is still nutrients in the leaves meaning that it still had plenty of nutrients to eat up. I do this with every harvest and every time come out with green leaves, with purples, blues, pinks, yellow, and orange leaves. 

The water is the plants growing medium. Over time nutrient salt build up occurs, especially if your using salty nutes like AN, GH, ect. Minimally, I like flushing my reservoir so I get rid of that build up in the water and in the root zone. That's my main goal because I don't think anyone like smoking nutrients.


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## Homer13063 (Mar 30, 2012)

Wow? I didn't know that there was so many different approaches to flushing. I have a Rubbermaid tote with 5 cola's in it. 60 days in. I use a 10-30-20 flower nutes and refilled it yesterday. I was curious how to flush a bubble grow and now I know. H20. I don't use "marijuana" fertilizers. They are way overpriced, and you are buying the label. Week 9 I will switch from 1800ppm to plain water for a week. I'll see how it goes... 

Thanks ALL for the input!


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## StinkBud (Mar 31, 2012)

I've used flushing agents before and they work well. You can also run plain tap water with Botanicare Sweet added during the flush. It makes your buds taste and smell sweet.

It's actually better to run a very low PPM in your res during flushing. The small amount of nutrients help leach the plant of the salts. 

How long do you flush? As long as it takes for the plant to turn yellow (or blue, purple, etc...)


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## legallyflying (Mar 31, 2012)

I love how the OP says "I don't care if you think its necessary or not..I just want to know the proper way to flush" 

Here is the straight dope.. myself, and many other experienced growers have done it both ways. If your not pushing nutrients overly hard, there is no real need to flush. Your nutrient amounts decrease towards the end anyways. You can flush for the last 3-4 days if your hell bent on it. You don't need flushing agents, a little sugar in the water will do the same thing in terms of removing nutrient ions from the medium. If your flushing h hydroponic system for a week or longer then you lack the understanding of the chemical processes behind the conversion of different nutrients and the curing process. These processes need a variety of different chemicals to function properly. Eliminating all nutrients doesn't help this process along. yeah, the leaves get all yellow and you think your getting rid of all the nitrogen etc but what your really doing is causing the collapse of the chemical processes for lack of certain ions. 

Google around if you don't believe me. You will see find intelligent discussions on the subject. Those that go way beyond "I flush for 6 months dude, and my bud is soooo smoooth"


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## Tmac4302 (Apr 2, 2012)

You've missed the entire point of my questioning flushing. I'm not asking if it works. I don't care if it's necessary. I don't even care if it helps. I'm only asking the instructions to using the flushing agent. I've seen the difference between no flushing and flushing with plain water. I have yet to see any type of personal results from a flushing agent. So, because of this, I decided to buy a flushing agent and see the difference for myself. I am a scientist. I love running trials for trivial information much like this topic provide. The only reason why I decided to make this thread was to ask if anyone have used it before and find a common dosage of it in the reservoir to aid in my research. Please don't be condescending and actually read the context of this thread before you comment and call the "OP" out on irrelevant information for this thread. Thanks!  

Btw, I flush because Advanced Nutrients is salty shit. I have had multiple problems from even using 1/2 the concentration of recommended dose from salt ionization and build up. Causes lock out and pH spikes. A flushing agent can take days work, and turn it into 6 hours of work. Idk about you, but I'm big into running my garden at the most efficient manner. Like you said, eliminating nutrients doesn't aid the growing process. So I like reducing the amount of time my plant is without nutrients. Flushing agents can also help balance and maintain a steady pH if you ever have fluctuations, removing most negligible signs in the plant. Timing really can be everything. Sometimes, I just don't have the time to flush with water. Sorry dude. Explain to another thread why flushing is +/-. This thread is for people that are curious about flushing agents and how many ml/gal for x amount hours to run it for. 

Tmac


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## ^Slanty (Apr 2, 2012)

I had a good laugh. You are "a scientist and love running trials for trivial information". If that is the case, then mix different ratio's and flush each plant differently. Why are you asking opinions, because if your statement is true, you may take into consideration what others have said, but you will come to your own conclusions regardless.

As for AN being salty shit..... don't over feed and it won't be salty shit. I have had WAY less salt buildup using AN compared to GH! As a "scientist", you should have figured this out by now.


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## Tmac4302 (Apr 3, 2012)

^Slanty said:


> I had a good laugh. You are "a scientist and love running trials for trivial information". If that is the case, then mix different ratio's and flush each plant differently. Why are you asking opinions, because if your statement is true, you may take into consideration what others have said, but you will come to your own conclusions regardless.
> 
> As for AN being salty shit..... don't over feed and it won't be salty shit. I have had WAY less salt buildup using AN compared to GH! As a "scientist", you should have figured this out by now.


What makes you think that I don't do that? I don't see any questions about the feeding regiment that I am providing for my plants. No one is asking me what type of nutrients i cycle through to run through. I do use various nutrient ratios as well as use different nutrient lines. I would consider myself a pretty diverse grower. I'm not saying I don't have things to learn and tweek/"perfect", but I am not ignorant or new to growing plants. If you would take to notice, my original intentions to this thread was only to ask about how much Final Phase was needed to add to a reservoir for how long. I only ask this question to help formulate my own conclusions for a flushing agent. If you've noticed, no-one has given me any cohesive answers and, as per to my last post, I have still formulated and made a cohesive understanding of Advanced Nutrients flushing agent, Final Phase. 

Just because you have comparable evidence showing how GH is saltier than AN doesn't mean AN isn't salty shit. I ran it less than 2ml/l the whole grow and still had salt build up. That's at 1/2 the recommended dose. Any grower with enough experience with AN will tell you, it is a good nutrient line. A little on the pricey-er side of nutrients, but it's not like it's not worth it. It is salty and I believe that is something AN has to improve on. If they improve that, baller. Till then all I was asking about was how much ml/gal to use the flushing agent at. Thanks!


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## legallyflying (Apr 3, 2012)

Jesus, what a dick. Actually any grower with enough experience will tell you that there are better nutrients than AN out there and they are MUCH cheaper. I don't know anyone with bigger grows (+10K watts) that uses AN. Either for soil, coco, or hydro. 

And just as a little FYI... your original post asks "I just want to know the proper way to flush". and that is exactly the question that myself and other posters answered. I highly doubt your a scientist, as I am a professional biologist and most of my peers would research a product before just buying it. As for how to use it...try reading the label on the bottle..that is always a good start. 

My point was that a little sugar water or very light nutrient flush will actually serve to remove excess salts better than straight tap water...or your flushing agent. Myself, and others..I think it was woodsmeneh? both did side by side tests flushing hydroton with plain water and flushing agents. The plain water actually resulted in a higher PPM of the runoff. 

Just do everyone a favor and get off the high horse. I read your grow thread...You don't even have a PPM meter!? One plant under a 400 watt, yeah dude, your rocking it hard.


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## ^Slanty (Apr 3, 2012)

legallyflying said:


> Jesus, what a dick. Actually any grower with enough experience will tell you that there are better nutrients than AN out there and they are MUCH cheaper. I don't know anyone with bigger grows (+10K watts) that uses AN. Either for soil, coco, or hydro.
> 
> And just as a little FYI... your original post asks "I just want to know the proper way to flush". and that is exactly the question that myself and other posters answered. I highly doubt your a scientist, as I am a professional biologist and most of my peers would research a product before just buying it. As for how to use it...try reading the label on the bottle..that is always a good start.
> 
> ...


+1! Where the fuck is the damn LIKE BUTTON!!!!


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## Warlock1369 (Apr 3, 2012)

Come on guys!!! Everyone knows if you grow 1plant all the way to harvest your a master grower. Hell after looking at his jernal 11oz wet dryer to 5.?. That's a 50% loss. Maybe we should ask him how to get that number. I still can only get around 30%. That makes me look like a noob with my 2.5-4lb grows.  lol 

Ya cant teach then all and sure as hell can't help a person that knows he's rite.


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## legallyflying (Apr 3, 2012)

Lol. I wonder what he is lighting his bowls with? A blow torch perhaps

You try and help someone and they get all poopy pants .


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## drgreentm (Apr 4, 2012)

Warlock1369 said:


> Come on guys!!! Everyone knows if you grow 1plant all the way to harvest your a master grower. Hell after looking at his jernal 11oz wet dryer to 5.?. That's a 50% loss. Maybe we should ask him how to get that number. I still can only get around 30%. That makes me look like a noob with my 2.5-4lb grows.  lol
> 
> Ya cant teach then all and sure as hell can't help a person that knows he's rite.


lol i saw his final post in his thread.*DUDE YOUR SMOKING WET NUG!!!!*&#8203;


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## phuzy (Apr 4, 2012)

Tmac4302 said:


> You've missed the entire point of my questioning flushing. I'm not asking if it works. I don't care if it's necessary. I don't even care if it helps. I'm only asking the instructions to using the flushing agent. I've seen the difference between no flushing and flushing with plain water. I have yet to see any type of personal results from a flushing agent. So, because of this, I decided to buy a flushing agent and see the difference for myself. I am a scientist. I love running trials for trivial information much like this topic provide. The only reason why I decided to make this thread was to ask if anyone have used it before and find a common dosage of it in the reservoir to aid in my research. Please don't be condescending and actually read the context of this thread before you comment and call the "OP" out on irrelevant information for this thread. Thanks!
> 
> Btw, I flush because Advanced Nutrients is salty shit. I have had multiple problems from even using 1/2 the concentration of recommended dose from salt ionization and build up. Causes lock out and pH spikes. A flushing agent can take days work, and turn it into 6 hours of work. Idk about you, but I'm big into running my garden at the most efficient manner. Like you said, eliminating nutrients doesn't aid the growing process. So I like reducing the amount of time my plant is without nutrients. Flushing agents can also help balance and maintain a steady pH if you ever have fluctuations, removing most negligible signs in the plant. Timing really can be everything. Sometimes, I just don't have the time to flush with water. Sorry dude. Explain to another thread why flushing is +/-. This thread is for people that are curious about flushing agents and how many ml/gal for x amount hours to run it for.
> 
> Tmac


LOl, If this is all you were looking for, wouldn't the directions on the bottle be enough?


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## ^Slanty (Apr 4, 2012)

phuzy said:


> LOl, If this is all you were looking for, wouldn't the directions on the bottle be enough?


That is kind of what I said. Seeming how he is the "scientist", I figured that would be a good place to start and then feed more/less to other plants and see what works best. IMO though, you will never get the same results even running the same mixture with 2 different plants. Root mass and structure come into play and they are never identical between plants.

As most companies recommend way more than what is necessary, I would have personally mixed 1 at what they said and another at 1/2 of what they said. Compared initial PPM's( and then "flushed" ppms on each plant noting the difference) This is the only "scientific" way to go about it and test how much is really necessary. 

Regardless, there are better ways to go about it than buying these so called "flushing agents". I'll keep my $ and keep doing it the way that produces killer smoke every time.


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## bird mcbride (Apr 4, 2012)

After all the experiments just chop, remove fan leaves and vase the selected plants in RO water for the last 24hr shift removing them just when the hps comes on. Take care the plants don't go dry dyring this cycle especially when the hps is on. Vase, 12hr/hps, 12hr darkness, remove trim and hang.


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## MonkE (Apr 4, 2012)

I have a question for the scientist.
Where are these salts building up in your system that they need flushing?


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## MonkE (Apr 4, 2012)

legallyflying said:


> Lol. I wonder what he is lighting his bowls with? A blow torch perhaps
> 
> You try and help someone and they get all poopy pants .


Haha... I used to light my bowls with a shop torch..
After about a month of that my lungs started to hurt and I couldn't get high anymore so I stopped


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## Tmac4302 (May 6, 2012)

phuzy said:


> LOl, If this is all you were looking for, wouldn't the directions on the bottle be enough?


The bottle doesn't specify. If it did, why would I have even created this thread? Derp.

Just because I disagree with others opinions doesn't mean I'm being a dick, trolls. Go back under the bridge you came from. I just simply asked a question. Take your panties out of a bunch.  No need for personal insults people. Sheesh.

Btw, I light my bowls with an Herb Iron, dick. It's healthier and tastier.


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## dasmoker33 (Oct 25, 2012)

*I NEED HELP BADLY!!! SUPER SUPER FRUSTRATED*....and about to SELL MY stupid waterfarm 8 pack I am SO frustrated.
How do I get ALL the water out of ALL of the buckets to put new nutrients in? How do I get ALL of the nutrient water OUT of the system, to be able to put in flushing water?
I am having A HARD TIME lifting up all the buckets...and then the res...and then the controller...and back again. I JUST got the system and want to return it. Is there any easier
way to do this?

*HELP*!!!


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## Clown Baby (Oct 25, 2012)

You don't need "flushing" products.

IMHO the best way to do it is to feed on a curve. Start slow. hit a bit heavier in the middle, and gradually dial it down towards the end. You don't need to go to extremes Like 2.0EC mid flower or plain water for last two weeks. Follow the "less is more" philosophy and you should be fine.


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## legallyflying (Oct 26, 2012)

CLown baby speaks the truth. There is an excellent article somewhere that details the processes within the plant and the chemical compounds necessary to complete those reactions. If you completely starve your plants for two long then those processes which reduce the amount of carbs in the plant will stop and your defeating the process. I "flush" for maybe 2 days in dwc. The only real reason I do it as it makes the clean up after I pulled the plants a little easier. 

dasmoker... the answer is a shop vac. That is what "the pros" use. hell I use the shop vac more than any other tool in the garden.


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## dasmoker33 (Oct 26, 2012)

a shop vac, seriously?! never thought of that....


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## legallyflying (Oct 26, 2012)

Seriously. A shop vac and a utility sink are the most priceless things I have.


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## SpectatorFernFirm (Dec 15, 2012)

CEEJR said:


> I used florakleen per directions ln jug to flush my farm nice white ash in the bowl after combustion.
> 
> Get ready for an epic flushing argument.



Lmfao!! I just spent HOURS reading soooo much flushing crap! So many "opinions" and yet I have no idea why I would put chemicals in if that what I want out. All the chemicals have a lot of the same shit in them. I read all my labels so plz no one tell me other wise. I'm following instructions but I DOUBT the whole process. I don't understand why plain water wouldn't be best to flush... Maybe someone can clear this up for me. Like I said I'm flushing as directed by the nutes I chose but something's telling me to go plain water last few days. I HATE CHEMICAL TASTE!!! This is pretty much the reason Im growing now, so I can finally have clean smoke.


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## legallyflying (Dec 16, 2012)

Yeah. Plain water works just as well as any "flushing agent". There is nothing to actually flush in hydro really. Just give them plain water for 3 maybe 4 days. If you reduced your nutes like you should in the last 2 weeks this is all you need


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## SpectatorFernFirm (Dec 17, 2012)

legallyflying said:


> Yeah. Plain water works just as well as any "flushing agent". There is nothing to actually flush in hydro really. Just give them plain water for 3 maybe 4 days. If you reduced your nutes like you should in the last 2 weeks this is all you need


Thats what I starting ddoing already. The last feeding was the last time they'll ever see 1000 or over in the PPM department. They are in high 600 for PPM and only getting lower weekly. I figured a slow come down is better then one minute 1300PPM and the next nothin. Think that would shock them. One off topic question... I'm on my 5th week of flower, are they gunna bulk up ever? I mean do they have a time where they just swell up? Sorry not trying to thread jack just curios. Thanks!


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## legallyflying (Dec 17, 2012)

The 5th and sixth week is when the really start to bulk up..for an 8-9 week strain


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## SpectatorFernFirm (Dec 19, 2012)

Damn that's exciting! Lol. those weeks would be starting now and I have those off of work too! Oh man what a good vaca this could potentially be . Think I should have high ppm still or should they be progressively dropping at this point? Again I'm on day 37 now. I don't want to start flushing too early as I'm starting to think I may be? I don't want to flush at the wrong point and ruin it all now.


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## Warlock1369 (Dec 19, 2012)

SpectatorFernFirm said:


> Damn that's exciting! Lol. those weeks would be starting now and I have those off of work too! Oh man what a good vaca this could potentially be . Think I should have high ppm still or should they be progressively dropping at this point? Again I'm on day 37 now. I don't want to start flushing too early as I'm starting to think I may be? I don't want to flush at the wrong point and ruin it all now.


I posted awhile back. but dont remember where. If your all organic soil there really isnt a need to flush. If your in soil but using heavy chemical fertilizers flush when you get 10-20% cloudy trics. Then water till you harvest. And for hydro what i do is i mix my week 7 res. High ppm. Then just let it go threw week 8. Ppm drops on its own. 4 days before harvest plain tap water no ph. Then 2 days just ro water no ph. If you dont have ro. Just redo with new tap water. Then when you smoke it if the ash is dark or if it dosnt taste as clean as you like. Add a few more days the next time. Flushing is realy all a personal choice. Try no flush, short flush, long flush. Pick what you like.


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## bigbudplease (Jun 20, 2013)

sorry to bring back old thread.

Im doing outdoor coco/perlite mix with heavy 16 synthetic nutes. i also have a few organic plants in promix.

Instead of flushing for last two weeks should i introduce organic compost teas instead?


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## bigbudplease (Jun 20, 2013)

noone has tried this or thinks its a ok idea?


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## hydro king 30 (Mar 29, 2017)

Tmac4302 said:


> I'm using a waterfarm and have a flushing agent, Final Phase. How do I go about using it properly to flush my plant before harvest? Do I just use it at recommended dose and run it in pH'd water for a week? Or what?
> 
> P.S. I really don't care if you feel it is necessary or not, I just want to know the proper way to go about flushing a hydroponic plant.
> 
> ...


I've been growing dwcc (deep water current culture) for years now bro dont listen to half these fools you in hydro u already use less nutes. Never use straight water use a flushing agent i use flora kleen works better then anything else ive tried i only use just ovee what bottle says and flush for 5 days and mines always the best smoke in town i yield 2 to 2.5 pds a plant bro and only veg a month so stop listening to these 3 to 8 ounce boys. Ph to 6.2 use flora kleen for 5 days and ur perfect drop wanter temp to 58 should go from day 1 of flush water should be 62 day 3 go to 58 for 2 to 3 more days so total 5 to 7 days tops ur have nice dense super sugary dank buds.


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## Dr.Nick Riviera (Mar 29, 2017)

hydro king 30 said:


> I've been growing dwcc (deep water current culture) for years now bro dont listen to half these fools you in hydro u already use less nutes. Never use straight water use a flushing agent i use flora kleen works better then anything else ive tried i only use just ovee what bottle says and flush for 5 days and mines always the best smoke in town i yield 2 to 2.5 pds a plant bro and only veg a month so stop listening to these 3 to 8 ounce boys. Ph to 6.2 use flora kleen for 5 days and ur perfect drop wanter temp to 58 should go from day 1 of flush water should be 62 day 3 go to 58 for 2 to 3 more days so total 5 to 7 days tops ur have nice dense super sugary dank buds.


you're replying to a 6 yr old thread dude


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## hydro king 30 (Mar 29, 2017)

No biggy still dont mind sharing the wealth


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## Illadelfhalflife (Oct 16, 2017)

Hydro king how do you hit the 2 pds per? Any tips?


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## Michael Huntherz (Oct 17, 2017)

Tmac4302 said:


> If taste is all about curing and drying, why do you use molasses, sweeting agent, or any high carbo supplement?? There is something called a terpene and flavinoid profile to each plant. Those are the aromas and and taste that the plant produces. There are ways to increase the production of said terpene and flavinoid profiles to each plant through sweeteners and through high carbo supplements in late flowering. Yes, to preserve and to evolve the taste, THAT is in the art of drying and curing. But to say that what the plant ingests and how the plant ingests it has no causal effect on what we taste and smell, is simply ignorant. Why do you think organic medicine tastes and smells better? Because of those natural carbo's and naturally broken down nutrients by beneficial bacteria and those enzymatic process's. The same thing applies to the naturally broken down nutrients the plant has stored away in the fan leaves. If you still see green on the plant's leaves by the time you have "starved" the plant through 7-10 days of flushing and 3 days of darkness, then there is still nutrients in the leaves meaning that it still had plenty of nutrients to eat up. I do this with every harvest and every time come out with green leaves, with purples, blues, pinks, yellow, and orange leaves.
> 
> The water is the plants growing medium. Over time nutrient salt build up occurs, especially if your using salty nutes like AN, GH, ect. Minimally, I like flushing my reservoir so I get rid of that build up in the water and in the root zone. That's my main goal because I don't think anyone like smoking nutrients.


I apologize for picking on you, specifically, you aren’t alone in thinking this stuff, but; Your post is based in a lack of understanding of how plants work. It is additinally loaded with cognitive biases and spurious appeals to nature. Nobody smokes nutrients, not in the sense you mean. Please educate yourself and stop perpetuating this kind of fiction.

Flushing at the end of harvest to improve flavor or make “white ash”, or whatever the hell pople think it does, is superstitious poppycock.


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## Mr. Jasa (Jun 22, 2018)

Tmac4302 said:


> I'm using a waterfarm and have a flushing agent, Final Phase. How do I go about using it properly to flush my plant before harvest? Do I just use it at recommended dose and run it in pH'd water for a week? Or what?
> 
> P.S. I really don't care if you feel it is necessary or not, I just want to know the proper way to go about flushing a hydroponic plant.
> 
> ...


So you care about the final product and that is awesome. Here's my 2 cents, since I've done it both ways and food for thought. First are your nutrients organic? Is so just use water it does the job just fine. Otherwise it's worth the time and effort to use a flushing product but like anything else read the label. I've found that for my hydroponic hybrid system Flawless Flush is the way to go. Now I use Bud Candy throughout the entire flower cycle and instead of molasses during the last week. I have tried using just water for flush but the amount of water and time it takes is more than cut in half by doing a chemical flush. I verified this by monitoring the water outfall from the flush with and without the additive. Not only that but the ladies seems to appreciate the added attention by continuing to grow, the triacomes seemed whiter. But this is just my experience. I'm pro when using a flush additive.


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## klx (Jun 23, 2018)

The only thing you should be flushing is your toilet.


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## Lucky Luke (Jun 23, 2018)

Dates man dates. Who doesn't love a date?


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