# ProMix... Is it considered hydroponics or soil gardening?



## max316420 (Feb 13, 2018)

Ok so this might sound like a stupid question coming from someone thats been growing for over 15 years and has been using promix for about 12 of those years but when ph'ing water for use with promix, should you consider it hydro ph range or soil ph range.. I use AN sensi bloom thats supposed to keep "ph perfect" but its dropping my ph down to 4.3 and i totally overlooked it and lockout set in and i got some yellowing in my fan leaves, but i figured out quickly that my ph was to low but im wondering if I should ph it to around 6.5 (soil) or around 5.8-6.0 (hydro)? Ive been using promix for so long but never truly knew the answer to this question lol And i know this isnt really a "advanced" cultivation question but the growers that i want to hear from usually are the ones in this section.. thanks in advance


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## Chunky Stool (Feb 13, 2018)

Promix contains little, if any NPK -- but it is buffered with lime which means it's got CA & MG. 
Unlike coco, you don't need to worry about PH with promix.


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## Cold$moke (Feb 13, 2018)

If used out of the bag it is an "inert" media in which it has no real nutriotional values in itself.
It should be treated like hydro in rockwool or coco (coco usually requires a coco formula)

And watered with a hydroponics ph.


Now if you add orgainc ammendments then youd need to ask a soil guy if you would treat it a little like dirt.

Sorry im a hydro guy at the moment for about as long as you 15 years


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## Chunky Stool (Feb 13, 2018)

Cold$moke said:


> If used out of the bag it is an "inert" media in which it has no real nutriotional values in itself.
> It should be treated like hydro in rockwool or coco (coco usually requires a coco formula)
> 
> And watered with a hydroponics ph.
> ...


Again, you don't have to worry about PH with promix because it's buffered with lime. 
Hell I'm growing with promix right now and still haven't calibrated my new PH meter -- because I don't need it.


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Feb 13, 2018)

i use pro mix and perlite in my hempy buckets. i consider it to be very much like coco coir, a hybrid between soil and hydro. i ph coco to 6.1, i've found that i have to ph pro mix to around 6.3.


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Feb 13, 2018)

Chunky Stool said:


> Again, you don't have to worry about PH with promix because it's buffered with lime.
> Hell I'm growing with promix right now and still haven't calibrated my new PH meter -- because I don't need it.


you're lucky, then, if i don't keep it ph'ed to around 6.3 i start to get Mag issues


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## Chunky Stool (Feb 13, 2018)

Roger A. Shrubber said:


> you're lucky, then, if i don't keep it ph'ed to around 6.3 i start to get Mag issues


Maybe it's because I grow "semi-organic"? 
Dunno...


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## max316420 (Feb 13, 2018)

ive checked the ph of the promix after watering with nutes and its around 7.2 and i do have to ph my nutrient water or i get complete lockout. so im wondering since there isnt any nutritional value what to ph the water at.. Ive been ph'in the water to 6.5 but wondering if i should lower it a bit
And i ALWAYS have to supplement with calmag, if not id have a dead fan leaves withing 2 weeks of the start of blooming


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Feb 13, 2018)

Chunky Stool said:


> Maybe it's because I grow "semi-organic"?
> Dunno...


could be, i keep things sterile with 29% h2o2


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## Cold$moke (Feb 13, 2018)

Chunky Stool said:


> Maybe it's because I grow "semi-organic"?
> Dunno...


Exactly what i said in my post if straight outa the bag you treat it like hydro


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## chiqifella (Feb 13, 2018)

thing is add a bit of sand and clay you have dirt, so.....
I use promix at my farm and only add pooh to it for my indoor, greenhouse and raised beds.
I water it when needed. I consider this dirt growing not hydroponics.
My hydro rock growing was much cleaner, wetter and lighter in all respects.


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## Cold$moke (Feb 13, 2018)

The fact remains promix out if the bag is a inert media

Dont know what else to say


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## 4(207) (Feb 13, 2018)

I think soilless mix is a stand alone category


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Feb 13, 2018)

i do too, but most people consider it a type of hydroponics for some reason.


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## 4(207) (Feb 13, 2018)

Roger A. Shrubber said:


> i do too, but most people consider it a type of hydroponics for some reason.


That's true! Hydroponics would be the choice in this situation


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## chiqifella (Feb 13, 2018)

Cold$moke said:


> The fact remains promix out if the bag is a inert media
> 
> Dont know what else to say


cept that its not inert right?
it is charged, albeit weakly.

https://www.pthorticulture.com/en/training-center/using-pro-mix-in-hydroponics/


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## Cold$moke (Feb 13, 2018)

Ill agree with that

But i wouldnt put in the same category of soil just cause its brown and makes a mess 

I ran promixe for about my first 2 grows

Never again i do not have patience for a media that dosnt soak up water readily lol
I loved coco but hated the mess


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## chiqifella (Feb 13, 2018)

Cold$moke said:


> Ill agree with that
> 
> But i wouldnt put in the same category of soil just cause its brown and makes a mess
> 
> ...


plus, lime, wetting agents, fungus, those make it not inert too.

if your promix didnt absorb water readily it was old, check the dates. I saw that on their website just a minute ago.
Mine is fresh truck delivered and dated. It sucks up water quickly and drains it out fast too. maybe old stock?


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## Chunky Stool (Feb 13, 2018)

chiqifella said:


> plus, lime, wetting agents, fungus, those make it not inert too.
> 
> if your promix didnt absorb water readily it was old, check the dates. I saw that on their website just a minute ago.
> Mine is fresh truck delivered and dated. It sucks up water quickly and drains it out fast too. maybe old stock?


One of the downsides of peat is that it becomes hydrophobic after drying out. 
I actually like Lambert HP better than ProMix. 
It's chunkier w/less perlite.


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## max316420 (Feb 13, 2018)

Cold$moke said:


> Exactly what i said in my post if straight outa the bag you treat it like hydro


yes its always straight out the bag, so you think i should lower my ph of my nutrient watering solution down to about 5.8?


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## max316420 (Feb 13, 2018)

And if your promix wont absorb water too well you could always add a few drops of liquid dish soap to act as a wetting agent


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## max316420 (Feb 13, 2018)

Honestly ive been using it for so long i wouldnt know what else to use lol i go thru waaaaay to much to be buying those small bag of stuff like ocean forest and such..


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## Cold$moke (Feb 13, 2018)

I would do what ever youve done for 15 years

But mabey set one plant aside and give it a ph of 5.8 to 6

If i recall right i ran my coco grows at 6
Mabey less


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Feb 13, 2018)

i've used pro mix for a while, and if you stay at 5.8 it's going to be too low, you need to center around 6.3, dropping down to 6.0 occasionally, rising to 6.5 occasionally, but always returning to 6.3


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Feb 13, 2018)

its hard to find anything but the basic pro-mix here, so i buy it and chunky perlite and mix it myself. i like to put about a 4 inch layer of pure perlite in the bottom of my hempy totes anyway, before i load em with the mix


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## jonsnow399 (Feb 14, 2018)

Roger A. Shrubber said:


> its hard to find anything but the basic pro-mix here, so i buy it and chunky perlite and mix it myself. i like to put about a 4 inch layer of pure perlite in the bottom of my hempy totes anyway, before i load em with the mix


I started using Pro mix recently but its hard to get here and expensive. I noticed that Premier peat moss is made by the same company as Pro mix and is cheap and readily available. I get perlite for 10 bucks a 4 cu ft bag so I wanna make my own. The promix bag says about 75 to 85 percent peat and the other is maybe split between perlite and vermiculite. My question is how much lime should I add, and is Dawn dishwasing soap a good wetting agent?


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## Chunky Stool (Feb 14, 2018)

jonsnow399 said:


> I started using Pro mix recently but its hard to get here and expensive. I noticed that Premier peat moss is made by the same company as Pro mix and is cheap and readily available. I get perlite for 10 bucks a 4 cu ft bag so I wanna make my own. The promix bag says about 75 to 85 percent peat and the other is maybe split between perlite and vermiculite. My question is how much lime should I add, and is Dawn dishwasing soap a good wetting agent?


Not sure how much lime to add, but be careful with soap. Yucca would be a better option.


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## Cold$moke (Feb 14, 2018)

Id go coco

Yucca is a great natural wetting agent 

Dont know about the lime crap but 

I would at least mix it 70 pro 30 perlite


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## Cold$moke (Feb 14, 2018)

Chunky Stool said:


> Not sure how much lime to add, but be careful with soap. Yucca would be a better option.


Agreed on the yucca 
A tiny pinch is enough for 5 gals lol


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## jonsnow399 (Feb 14, 2018)

Cold$moke said:


> Agreed on the yucca
> A tiny pinch is enough for 5 gals lol


reading up on it it says as little as 1/16 tsp is enough for 5 gallons, good thing its expensive. Whats a good place to get it online?


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Feb 14, 2018)

i wouldn't use vermiculite, it retains moisture, and the whole purpose of mixing in anything is to get better drainage.
70-30 is a good ratio, for either coco or pro-mix.
here's the thing about lime. it's not that great for plants in pots, it tends to hang out for a while, and interfere with absorption of sulfur.
you'd be better off a small bag of calcium nitrate, a bottle of cal-mag, or a foliar spray like yield booster. the chelation they use on fertilizer is supposed to keep the sulfur and calcium from reacting and precipitating, but i don't trust it, i've seen dust in the bottom of my fert buckets when mixing them., so i use a foliar now. a good spray every two weeks and no worries


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## Chunky Stool (Feb 14, 2018)

jonsnow399 said:


> reading up on it it says as little as 1/16 tsp is enough for 5 gallons, good thing its expensive. Whats a good place to get it online?


Anyone who sells RAW products by NPK.


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Feb 14, 2018)

i've never used a wetting agent. never needed one. peat can develop hydrophobic pockets, IF you allow it. water it regularly, slowly, over the whole surface of the pot, and you won't get dry pockets


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## jonsnow399 (Feb 14, 2018)

Roger A. Shrubber said:


> i wouldn't use vermiculite, it retains moisture, and the whole purpose of mixing in anything is to get better drainage.
> 70-30 is a good ratio, for either coco or pro-mix.
> here's the thing about lime. it's not that great for plants in pots, it tends to hang out for a while, and interfere with absorption of sulfur.
> you'd be better off a small bag of calcium nitrate, a bottle of cal-mag, or a foliar spray like yield booster. the chelation they use on fertilizer
> is supposed to keep the sulfur and calcium from reacting and precipitating, but i don't trust it, i've seen dust in the bottom of my fert buckets when mixing them., so i use a foliar now. a good spray every two weeks and no worries


I was gonna put the lime in cuz that's what in Promix for Ph, I have a 25lb bag of calcium nitrate, how much to add? I'm using Jack's Hydro 321, so wouldn't that be enough calnit?


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Feb 14, 2018)

don't add it to the peat, just water with it, add it about the strength you would add cal mag, just remember it has N in it as well.


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## Cold$moke (Feb 14, 2018)

jonsnow399 said:


> reading up on it it says as little as 1/16 tsp is enough for 5 gallons, good thing its expensive. Whats a good place to get it online?


Kelp 4 less
Im using a small pack of raw cause a little pack does a 1000 gallons 

But cheaper versions are out there

Just look up water souluble yucca extract youll find it


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## Cold$moke (Feb 14, 2018)

I thought lime was only used to sweeten acidic soils anyway like ph raiser why do you guys use it?


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Feb 14, 2018)

i use it in my garden outside, to do exactly that, but it's a good source of calcium, especially if you buy dolomite lime, which contains magnesium, as well.


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## Chunky Stool (Feb 15, 2018)

Roger A. Shrubber said:


> i use it in my garden outside, to do exactly that, but it's a good source of calcium, especially if you buy dolomite lime, which contains magnesium, as well.


Yep, PH buffer + cal-mag


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## max316420 (Feb 16, 2018)

ok so what ph do you guys that use promix ph your nutrient solution to? I had to take a 3 year break from gardening and ran into a yellowing issue in early to mid bloom.. Dont wanna run into this issue again.. Ive been ph'ing my solution to 6.5 after i tested my solution and found out i had fed at least 8-10 with fucked up ph nutrient solution... ps.... advanced nutrients ph perfect is not ph perfect, takes my nutrient solution down to 4.5... Ive quickly learned not to become to comfortable because when you do, you forget stuff and that can ruin a whole crop. I was to comfortable and totally forgot to test my ph, easy mistake that i completely overlooked


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Feb 16, 2018)

i ph promix to 6.3, i did a little research when i started using it, and that was what a lot of people were doing. i tried it and never had a problem with it, so i keep doing it. i do allow it to drift down to 6.0 and up to 6.5 now and then, but always come back to 6.3


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## thumper60 (Feb 16, 2018)

max316420 said:


> Ok so this might sound like a stupid question coming from someone thats been growing for over 15 years and has been using promix for about 12 of those years but when ph'ing water for use with promix, should you consider it hydro ph range or soil ph range.. I use AN sensi bloom thats supposed to keep "ph perfect" but its dropping my ph down to 4.3 and i totally overlooked it and lockout set in and i got some yellowing in my fan leaves, but i figured out quickly that my ph was to low but im wondering if I should ph it to around 6.5 (soil) or around 5.8-6.0 (hydro)? Ive been using promix for so long but never truly knew the answer to this question lol And i know this isnt really a "advanced" cultivation question but the growers that i want to hear from usually are the ones in this section.. thanks in advance


its a little of both lol I think its the best of both worlds hydro results with a little buffer


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## Gquebed (Feb 18, 2018)

max316420 said:


> ok so what ph do you guys that use promix ph your nutrient solution to? I had to take a 3 year break from gardening and ran into a yellowing issue in early to mid bloom.. Dont wanna run into this issue again.. Ive been ph'ing my solution to 6.5 after i tested my solution and found out i had fed at least 8-10 with fucked up ph nutrient solution... ps.... advanced nutrients ph perfect is not ph perfect, takes my nutrient solution down to 4.5... Ive quickly learned not to become to comfortable because when you do, you forget stuff and that can ruin a whole crop. I was to comfortable and totally forgot to test my ph, easy mistake that i completely overlooked


I ph my nute solution for promix between 6.1 and 6.4. 

I also use the AN ph perfect line. It is meant for RO water... when you use RO water the ph perfect line it actually works very well. 

If your ph is ending up at 4.5 then your water must be starting out at a very low ph. My water comes out at the tap at about 6.8 to 7.5 usually, depending on time of year. After i add my nutes i usually end up around 6.5ish... then i bring it down a bit.


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## 18B (Feb 22, 2018)

Roger A. Shrubber said:


> i've used pro mix for a while, and if you stay at 5.8 it's going to be too low, you need to center around 6.3, dropping down to 6.0 occasionally, rising to 6.5 occasionally, but always returning to 6.3


I run promix always, top dress with my mixed ferts...my water is always 5.9ph going in...been that way forever and it's perfect for me.


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## thumper60 (Feb 22, 2018)

18B said:


> I run promix always, top dress with my mixed ferts...my water is always 5.9ph going in...been that way forever and it's perfect for me.


u no I have been using promix since late 80s, have used all kinds of water stream, swamp, pond, rain, well, never have I tested the ph always get good results the only ph testing I do is on my fish tank the buffer is built into it good for about 100 days


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Feb 22, 2018)

maybe it's more forgiving than we think. if 5.9 works for you, use it, 6.3 has been working for me, maybe anything between the two would be good, just don't know, maybe i'll experiment a little when i have some more set aside


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## Chef420 (Feb 22, 2018)

I’ve been growing for 2 years and have used pro mix the whole time. I like it but hp and NOT the one with vermiculite. 
I was told initially I didn’t have to be concerned with ph. Not true. From my research etc as stated 6.3 seems to be the sweet spot. I use tap water (124 ppm) but have to add ca/mg


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## thumper60 (Feb 22, 2018)

Roger A. Shrubber said:


> maybe it's more forgiving than we think. if 5.9 works for you, use it, 6.3 has been working for me, maybe anything between the two would be good, just don't know, maybe i'll experiment a little when i have some more set aside


really the main thing is let the shit dry out if it stays damp its rots,i used to cut coco promix 50-50 works great just a pain hydrating the big blocks of coco,if I miss a feeding with promix u c it next day just like hydro


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## 18B (Feb 28, 2018)

My water comes out of the spring house at 5.9...lime creeks????
I always make my amendments and it bounces back to 5.9 for the win...I have never had anything but healthy plants and never a lockout...I also use very minimal nutes...I never hit them hard or use pgrs...just nutes on the low end every other time.


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## max316420 (Feb 28, 2018)

Gquebed said:


> I ph my nute solution for promix between 6.1 and 6.4.
> 
> I also use the AN ph perfect line. It is meant for RO water... when you use RO water the ph perfect line it actually works very well.
> 
> If your ph is ending up at 4.5 then your water must be starting out at a very low ph. My water comes out at the tap at about 6.8 to 7.5 usually, depending on time of year. After i add my nutes i usually end up around 6.5ish... then i bring it down a bit.


using well water and its a perfect 6.5 before adding nutes then goes down to 4.5 but ive been bring it back up to about 6.0 and that seems to be working good til i just fucked up last night and decided to try out recharge beneficial bacteria and my plants did not react very well to it. Seems like the recharge burnt my fan leaves because yesterday morning there wasnt a single spot on any leaves and this morning there is spots all over fan leaves that are similar to this pic ( sorry dont have a cam at the moment so had to find a pic off the net that looked similar to whats going on), the spots are on plants that are in veg and bloom and i havent changed anything except for using the recharge. But what i dont understand is on the package they claim that wont burn the plant regardless of how much you dose it. I didnt go overboard on it, i just used 1 ts per gallon and every single plant that i used it on now has the spots on the fan leaves. I know its not a def cause it literally happened within about a 10 hour period. Needless to say im quiet pissed lol live and learn i guess


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## Gquebed (Feb 28, 2018)

max316420 said:


> using well water and its a perfect 6.5 before adding nutes then goes down to 4.5 but ive been bring it back up to about 6.0 and that seems to be working good til i just fucked up last night and decided to try out recharge beneficial bacteria and my plants did not react very well to it. Seems like the recharge burnt my fan leaves because yesterday morning there wasnt a single spot on any leaves and this morning there is spots all over fan leaves that are similar to this pic ( sorry dont have a cam at the moment so had to find a pic off the net that looked similar to whats going on), the spots are on plants that are in veg and bloom and i havent changed anything except for using the recharge. But what i dont understand is on the package they claim that wont burn the plant regardless of how much you dose it. I didnt go overboard on it, i just used 1 ts per gallon and every single plant that i used it on now has the spots on the fan leaves. I know its not a def cause it literally happened within about a 10 hour period. Needless to say im quiet pissed lol live and learn i guess


Maybe mixing the recharge with the AN nutes created threw something out of whack and burned em up? I dunno...


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## Coloradoclear (Mar 3, 2018)

Good information. I use Sensi A & B with ocean forest (I do not fertilize much during veg). This next grow I will be using ProMix HP. Why does the PH drop with ProMix if it is enert?


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## Chunky Stool (Mar 3, 2018)

Coloradoclear said:


> Good information. I use Sensi A & B with ocean forest (I do not fertilize much during veg). This next grow I will be using ProMix HP. Why does the PH drop with ProMix if it is enert?


It has lime (cal-mag) to buffer the acidity of peat. 
It doesn't have any NPK. 
I've found that I still have to add cal-mag. Some plants like more than others...


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Mar 3, 2018)

^ this, treat it kind of like coco that doesn't eat so much Mag, and need to dry out a little more


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## ugmjfarmer (Mar 3, 2018)

max316420 said:


> using well water and its a perfect 6.5 before adding nutes then goes down to 4.5 but ive been bring it back up to about 6.0 and that seems to be working good til i just fucked up last night and decided to try out recharge beneficial bacteria and my plants did not react very well to it. Seems like the recharge burnt my fan leaves because yesterday morning there wasnt a single spot on any leaves and this morning there is spots all over fan leaves that are similar to this pic ( sorry dont have a cam at the moment so had to find a pic off the net that looked similar to whats going on), the spots are on plants that are in veg and bloom and i havent changed anything except for using the recharge. But what i dont understand is on the package they claim that wont burn the plant regardless of how much you dose it. I didnt go overboard on it, i just used 1 ts per gallon and every single plant that i used it on now has the spots on the fan leaves. I know its not a def cause it literally happened within about a 10 hour period. Needless to say im quiet pissed lol live and learn i guess


The amino acids and fulvic acids can cause the plant to uptake more nutrients immediately and this can cause that issue if you don't dial back the base nutes. anytime you add fulvic/humic/aminos to soilless, 25-35% dial-back in nutrient strength is in order.


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## Deepstuff (Feb 15, 2022)

Found this on another site:

PH for the nutrient mix for soil is 6.4 - 6.7
PH for the nutrient mix for Peat is 6.3 -6.4
PH for the nutrient mix for Coco is 5.8 to 6.2
PH for the nutrient mix for hydro is 5.8 to 6.2

Would Promix HP fall into the peat category? Or maybe between peat and hydro?


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## Lenin1917 (Feb 15, 2022)

jonsnow399 said:


> reading up on it it says as little as 1/16 tsp is enough for 5 gallons, good thing its expensive. Whats a good place to get it online?


i just empty 2 now foods dietary yucca capsules in a jug since I take it for insulin resistance.
NOW Supplements, Yucca (Yucca spp.) 500 mg, 4:1 Concentrate, Herbal Supplement, 100 Capsules
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JN6EAI/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_a_CKNH61FQ8NR1EBRC2QE1


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## Herb & Suds (Feb 15, 2022)

Deepstuff said:


> Found this on another site:
> 
> PH for the nutrient mix for soil is 6.4 - 6.7
> PH for the nutrient mix for Peat is 6.3 -6.4
> ...


Peat


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## Grojak (Feb 15, 2022)

Roger A. Shrubber said:


> i use pro mix and perlite in my hempy buckets. i consider it to be very much like coco coir, a hybrid between soil and hydro. i ph coco to 6.1, i've found that i have to ph pro mix to around 6.3.


same, always have and always will


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## Radicle420 (Feb 15, 2022)

I consider just growing in promix as soilless. All you are growing in is peat moss and perlite. These mixes are made specifically for starting seedlings. It is there to start seeds in a tray and have enough fertilizer to keep them happy for roughly 2-4 weeks. I don't understand why weed growers think you can grow in this stuff solely. If any of you care about sustainability you need to take a deep look in the mirror. There are only so many peat bogs. Put your plants in the ground and tap into the wonders of soil.


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## farmerjoe420 (Feb 15, 2022)

Deepstuff said:


> Found this on another site:
> 
> PH for the nutrient mix for soil is 6.4 - 6.7
> PH for the nutrient mix for Peat is 6.3 -6.4
> ...


You should treat it like hydro, 5.8 PH


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## farmerjoe420 (Feb 15, 2022)

@Herb & Suds why the wow emoji ?


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## Herb & Suds (Feb 15, 2022)

farmerjoe420 said:


> @Herb & Suds why the wow emoji ?


I run well water at 8.1 and never check ph after adding anything 
You seemed convinced it must be 5.8 ph
I haven’t seen any reason to go near that or even think I have issues 
But if you think you need to ph in a buffered medium it is your prerogative


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## farmerjoe420 (Feb 15, 2022)

Herb & Suds said:


> I run well water at 8.1 and never check ph after adding anything
> You seemed convinced it must be 5.8 ph
> I haven’t seen any reason to go near that or even think I have issues View attachment 5086141
> But if you think you need to ph in a buffered medium it is your prerogative


I think if I were giving advice, i would be mindful of where my info was coming from. 5.8 is a industry standard in terms of PH in regards to hydroponics and there is an important reason why this applies to promix. I’m sure you already know why though ?


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## farmerjoe420 (Feb 15, 2022)

Herb & Suds said:


> I run well water at 8.1 and never check ph after adding anything
> You seemed convinced it must be 5.8 ph
> I haven’t seen any reason to go near that or even think I have issues View attachment 5086141
> But if you think you need to ph in a buffered medium it is your prerogative


Another thing, my advice isn’t based on prerogative. It’s based on science that comes from people smarter than you or I.
You can see from your picture you clearly have imbalances. It doesn’t look bad but you have some things going on there. You wanna take a guess at what premier horticulture “buffers” there medium to ? Also, even if it is buffered, you think source water has no affect on medium PH ?


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## Playk328 (Feb 15, 2022)

I run pro mix hp, I do not ph my water, it comes out of the well at 7.2. I currently run gaia green with the pro mix but before this I was running liquid nutrients and still did not adjust ph. 5.8 for promix seems a bit low but I do know 7.2 has worked fine with me.


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## farmerjoe420 (Feb 15, 2022)

Playk328 said:


> I run pro mix hp, I do not ph my water, it comes out of the well at 7.2. I currently run gaia green with the pro mix but before this I was running liquid nutrients and still did not adjust ph. 5.8 for promix seems a bit low but I do know 7.2 has worked fine with me.


They recommend 5.5-6.0 for promix as being the optimal range.


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## Playk328 (Feb 15, 2022)

Not sure, I know from using pro mix for over 12 years that Im not adjusting my ph that low, I never adjust ph, add gypsum and or lime if needed. Even when I ran liquid nutrients I never ph'd water. If 5.5 works for ya then nice but for me 7.2 has been fine


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## farmerjoe420 (Feb 15, 2022)

Playk328 said:


> Not sure, I know from using pro mix for over 12 years that Im not adjusting my ph that low, I never adjust ph, add gypsum and or lime if needed. Even when I ran liquid nutrients I never ph'd water. If 5.5 works for ya then nice but for me 7.2 has been fine


i don’t adjust to 5.5, I stay between 5.8-6.0


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## PadawanWarrior (Feb 15, 2022)

Depends on what you add and how you treat it. It's a soilless mix, but add some compost and use organic nutes and I'd say then it's no longer soilless.


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## Playk328 (Feb 15, 2022)

If that works for you then nice, I have never adjusted ph like that. When I ran liquid I would just mix and pour and I never ran into too many issues, had a couple bad bales of pro mix but nothing terrible. Now I run pro mix with ewc, rabbit castings, compost, lime, gaia green and I still just water from the well.


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## Milky Weed (Feb 15, 2022)

farmerjoe420 said:


> i don’t adjust to 5.5, I stay between 5.8-6.0


I adjust to 6.0 and the plants seem to like that. I add epsom and gypsum with kelp humic and fluvic. I plan on drifting the ph up towards 6.5 as they finish up.


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## farmerjoe420 (Feb 15, 2022)

Playk328 said:


> If that works for you then nice, I have never adjusted ph like that. When I ran liquid I would just mix and pour and I never ran into too many issues, had a couple bad bales of pro mix but nothing terrible. Now I run pro mix with ewc, rabbit castings, compost, lime, gaia green and I still just water from the well.


your not really using promix then anymore. Your more considered soil so a higher PH makes sense


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## Herb & Suds (Feb 15, 2022)

farmerjoe420 said:


> your not really using promix then anymore. Your more considered soil so a higher PH makes sense


So if he was in coco it would be acceptable?
I’m not even sure wtf you are defending 
But that’s just me 
Let me guess …nerds ?


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## Herb & Suds (Feb 15, 2022)

farmerjoe420 said:


> They recommend 5.5-6.0 for promix as being the optimal range.


So I should always rely on manufacturing recommendations just like the seed and nutrient industry? 
cause it’s so honest ?


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## farmerjoe420 (Feb 15, 2022)

Herb & Suds said:


> So I should always rely on manufacturing recommendations just like the seed and nutrient industry?
> cause it’s so honest ?


do you realize how small of a market we are to them ? your comparing premier horticulture to a seed company ?


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## farmerjoe420 (Feb 15, 2022)

Herb & Suds said:


> So if he was in coco it would be acceptable?



PH 6 or lower ? yes, it would be acceptable


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## Kassiopeija (Feb 15, 2022)

farmerjoe420 said:


> Another thing, my advice isn’t based on prerogative. It’s based on science that comes from people smarter than you or I.


strange just 2 days ago I was reading an evaluation of soil-types for hemp and it cited sandy-loam and peat as potentially viable for outdoor farmers. It was an US review IIRC. Let me just search for it.

I doubt peat is inert, although there are different peat. But I've used a mixture of black & white peat to run water through and it releases alot of good bioavailable stuff, that even showed up on an EC meter.

It's plant material that is broken down, yeah most if what it did contain has been washed out but not all. If you establish a bacteria culture in a peat based soil they may free more nitrogen when further breaking it down.

Isnt the general idea of soil that it is a mixture of plant material (in various stages of decay) + mineralic content?

10 years ago I took soil-probes on various outdoor locations where stinging nettles grew (before planting there) and the meter would show pH 8.0 & EC 0.01mS. The soil from the farmers field also shows this. 
But it's not inert. Organic compounds mostly can't be traced, needs to be combusted during a lab analysis.

As for proper pH set, the ratio of nitrate-to-ammonia in the fertilizer has an influence on that.


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## PadawanWarrior (Feb 15, 2022)

Kassiopeija said:


> strange just 2 days ago I was reading an evaluation of soil-types for hemp and it cited sandy-loam and peat as potentially viable for outdoor farmers. It was an US review IIRC. Let me just search for it.
> 
> I doubt peat is inert, although there are different peat. But I've used a mixture of black & white peat to run water through and it releases alot of good bioavailable stuff, that even showed up on an EC meter.
> 
> ...











Peat vs Coco Coir


This can be a hotly debated topic among growers as to what's the best media for growing plants. In this article, I'll weigh in with my opinion on the subject as there are Pros and Cons to both.




www.kisorganics.com


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## Kassiopeija (Feb 15, 2022)

A Review on the Current State of Knowledge of Growing Conditions, Agronomic Soil Health Practices and Utilities of Hemp in the United States

_"*Growing Conditions for Hemp Cultivation*

3.1. Soil Conditions 
Hemp can be grown on several soil types, but it thrives best on loose, well-drained loam soils that are rich in organic matter [53,54]. The most suitable soil for hemp cultivation should have a pH 6.0–7.5 [28] and according to [55], the optimum soil pH for hemp production ranges between 5.8 and 6.0 as it does not grow well in acidic soil. The soil should be deep, well-aerated, rich in nutrients, and have a good water-holding capacity [53]. Sandy loam texture is ideal for hemp growth, followed by clay loam, but heavy clay soil and sandy soil are not very well suitable because they hold too much or too little water [56]. Soil preparation is an essential process in hemp cultivation, and all soil hard pans should be broken to allow free draining as waterlogging kills the plants, especially the young ones. The presence of a compacted layer can restrain root development, particularly when the compaction pan is due to poor soil preparation. Hemp is a tap-rooted crop, and in fine soils, the taproot typically takes on an L-shape, which negatively affects the uptake of nutrients and water by the crop [15]. A study concluded that fertile clay loam or silt loam soils with neutral alkalinity are most suitable for hemp cultivation [57]. Hemp does not germinate well in acid sandy soils, heavy clay, or gravelly soils. Hemp plants could grow in peaty marshlands but will yield lower amounts and quality of fiber [57]. Hemp is very sensitive to soil moisture conditions and should not be subjected to drought. It grows well in soils with high water-holding capacity, and good soil drainage is crucial to maximizing its production since most hemp plants failed to grow in poorly drained soils [58]."_


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## PadawanWarrior (Feb 15, 2022)

Kassiopeija said:


> A Review on the Current State of Knowledge of Growing Conditions, Agronomic Soil Health Practices and Utilities of Hemp in the United States
> 
> _"*Growing Conditions for Hemp Cultivation*
> 
> 3.1. Soil Conditions Hempcan be grown on several soil types, but it thrives best on loose, well-drained loam soils that are rich in organic matter [53,54]. The most suitable soil for hemp cultivation should have a pH 6.0–7.5 [28] and according to [55], the optimum soil pH for hemp production ranges between 5.8 and 6.0 as it does not grow well in acidic soil. The soil should be deep, well-aerated, rich in nutrients, and have a good water-holding capacity [53]. Sandy loam texture is ideal for hemp growth, followed by clay loam, but heavy clay soil and sandy soil are not very well suitable because they hold too muchor too little water [56]. Soil preparation is an essential process in hemp cultivation, and all soil hard pans should be broken to allow free draining as waterlogging kills the plants, especially the young ones. The presence of a compacted layer can restrain root development, particularly when the compaction pan is due to poor soil preparation. Hemp is a tap-rooted crop, and in fine soils, the taproot typically takes on an L-shape, which negatively affects the uptake of nutrients and water by the crop [15]. A study concluded that fertile clay loam or silt loam soils with neutral alkalinity are most suitable for hemp cultivation [57]. Hemp does not germinate well in acid sandy soils, heavy clay, or gravelly soils. Hemp plants could grow in peaty marshlands but will yield lower amounts and quality of fiber [57]. Hemp is very sensitive to soil moisture conditions and should not be subjected to drought. It grows well in soils with high water-holding capacity, and good soil drainage is crucial to maximizing its production since most hemp plants failed to grow in poorly drained soils [58]."_


I'd consider my 3 1/2 year old soil a sandy loam or silty loam. But it's hard for me to say for sure. At least I'm in the Loam range,


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## Dreaming1 (Feb 16, 2022)

I use promix HP and I add some extra chunky perlite, GH nutes mixed half to 3/4 strength, every or every other time I water. I always add calmag until flower. I Ph to 6.3-6.5. If not I burn shit up. My well water Ph is 9+!! Loaded with calcium. I have to add more? Chemistry magic. I use root booster, cause I wonder how much use the fungus is as I pour salts all over it...
I recycle it sometimes. I feel bad about depleting peat resources. Just moving the leaves around in the yard I guess.
I have used other mediums. I know others using other everything. Some better,some worse. I get what i want and the cost is ok, so im happy.
I treat it like hydro. It is not soil. It is dirt. Soil is alive. Dirt is a mix of stuff waiting to host life.


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## farmerjoe420 (Feb 16, 2022)

Kassiopeija said:


> strange just 2 days ago I was reading an evaluation of soil-types for hemp and it cited sandy-loam and peat as potentially viable for outdoor farmers. It was an US review IIRC. Let me just search for it.
> 
> I doubt peat is inert, although there are different peat. But I've used a mixture of black & white peat to run water through and it releases alot of good bioavailable stuff, that even showed up on an EC meter.
> 
> ...





Kassiopeija said:


> strange just 2 days ago I was reading an evaluation of soil-types for hemp and it cited sandy-loam and peat as potentially viable for outdoor farmers. It was an US review IIRC. Let me just search for it.
> 
> I doubt peat is inert, although there are different peat. But I've used a mixture of black & white peat to run water through and it releases alot of good bioavailable stuff, that even showed up on an EC meter.
> 
> ...


In that article you cited, there comparing field soils. Promix in containers using soluble nutrients isn’t comparable to that. Peat surely has the potential to harbor microbial life but it has no mineral content or organic matter. it’s not soil.


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## PadawanWarrior (Feb 16, 2022)

farmerjoe420 said:


> In that article you cited, there comparing field soils. Promix in containers using soluble nutrients isn’t comparable to that. Peat surely has the potential to harbor microbial life but it has no mineral content or organic matter. it’s not soil.


"Sphagnum" is a genus of approximately 120 different species of mosses known as "peat moss." _Sphagnum_ and the peat formed from it do not decay readily because of the phenolic compounds embedded in the moss's cell walls. Peat moss can also acidify its surroundings by taking up cations, such as calcium, magnesium, and potassium, and releasing hydrogen ions. Under the right conditions, peat can accumulate to a depth of many yards. These bogs are slowly building and 80% of the peat moss used in the United States comes from Canada. Approximately .02 percent of the 270 million acres (422,000 square miles) of Canadian peat bog are used for peat moss mining. There are some efforts made to restore peat bogs after peat mining. It is debated as to whether the peat bogs can be restored to their pre-mining condition and how long the process takes. Many peat companies claim this to be a sustainable practice, but that is hotly debated topic depending on where you source your information on the subject.

Pros of Peat Moss:


Free of weed seeds, pests and pathogens.
Can absorb up to 20 times its weight in water.
Contains beneficial microorganisms.
Acidic pH (a "pro" in my opinion because you can add highly alkaline amendments to it).
Contains a variety of elements, especially sulfur, which helps with proper terpene expression.
Excellent habitat for beneficial microorganisms.
Harvested in North America, which reduces the fossil fuel impact to get it to the United States.
Holds 10x to 20x its dry weight in water.
Better C:N ratio than coco coir.
Cation exchange capacity (CEC) of 100-200.
Cons of Peat Moss:


Depletes peat bogs, which requires them to be re-built or sustainably harvested.
Naturally hydrophobic, meaning if allowed to dry out it will be slow to accept water.
Needs to be kept evenly moist for optimal plant growth and health.
Requires hydrating before use.
Coco coir is the natural fibrous material found between the hard, internal shell and the outer coat of a coconut. It is treated before use as a growth medium for plants or fungi by soaking in a calcium buffering solution; most coir sold for growing purposes is pre-treated. Once any remaining salts have been leached out of the coir pith, it and the coir bark become suitable substrates for growing plants.

Pros of Coco Coir:


Coir pH usually runs 6 – 6.7.
"Renewable" resource - byproduct of the coconut industry.
Easier to rewet than peat moss, is not hydrophobic.
Usually cheaper than peat moss.
Different reports list coco as having a water capacity ranging from 8x to 30x it's own weight.
Excellent habitat for microorganisms.
Free of weed seeds, pests, and pathogens.
Breaks down slower than peat due to high lignin content.
Cation Exchange Capacity of 40-60.
Cons of Coco Coir:


High salinity unless properly washed.
Quality can vary depending on batch and source of material.
Higher fossil fuel cost to get the coir to the United States from tropical regions.
Does not contain many trace elements.
Does not contain microorganisms.
Traditionally high in sodium and potassium which can lead to calcium or magnesium deficiencies unless properly treated.
Requires hydrating before use.
Increased incidence of nasobronchial allergy among workers in this industry due to the high amount of dust created.
Some coco coir in tropical regions is being sprayed with pesticides like neonicotinoids, one of the pesticides most commonly linked to honey bee death.


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## Kassiopeija (Feb 16, 2022)

farmerjoe420 said:


> In that article you cited, there comparing field soils. Promix in containers using soluble nutrients isn’t comparable to that.


that's true, a pot is not a marshland, but still the argument stands. Peat is not inert. The peat in pro-mix is peat-moss, here are excerpts from a master thesis on this ingredient:

It even states the nitrogen in peat could be too much for N-sensitive plants.
I used Biobizz light-mix for 1 time, this is only Peat Moss & Perlit, and it contains ~1200mg/l N.

And peat contains also other NPK, and essential micro-elements:

some of these elements are already bioavailable, they are ionic & can be measured by EC.
and that's not even all...

The question is why your promix doesnt give any analysis out? Maybe because of the varying quality?

https://open.library.ubc.ca › p...PDF
QUALITY OF PEAT MOSS AS A COMPONENT OF GROWING ...


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## farmerjoe420 (Feb 16, 2022)

Kassiopeija said:


> that's true, a pot is not a marshland, but still the argument stands. Peat is not inert. The peat in pro-mix is peat-moss, here are excerpts from a master thesis on this ingredient:
> View attachment 5086311
> It even states the nitrogen in peat could be too much for N-sensitive plants.
> I used Biobizz light-mix for 1 time, this is only Peat Moss & Perlit, and it contains ~1200mg/l N.
> ...



so your saying peat should be treated as soil because it is not inert ?


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## Playk328 (Feb 16, 2022)

Ive always ran pro mix like soil, I know my current mix is organic soil with the extras but even when I ran pro mix and liquid nutrients I still treated it the same. I do know that peat by nature is acidic, thats why they add lime. If lower ph adjusted water works for you then stick with it, for me its always been easy to just mix and pour and Ive never had too many issues with it. I switched to full organic since it offers a more water only / teas solutions, I am finding this way seems to be even easier then liquid nutrients.


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## M.O. (Feb 16, 2022)

To answer the thread I’d say neither. On its own it’s really its own thing. 

I tried recycling it with compost and dry amendments and would tell anyone to not waste their time like I did. Unless you can test every aspect of the media it’s frustrating way to go as time goes on and that long release lime wears out. 

Never done hydro but I’ve read you can water/feed coco many times a day resetting the stuff totally and never wanting dry back. Right out of the bag that’s not happening with promix.


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## farmerjoe420 (Feb 16, 2022)

M.O. said:


> Never done hydro but I’ve read you can water/feed coco many times a day resetting the stuff totally and never wanting dry back. Right out of the bag that’s not happening with promix.


if the correct pot size is used, you can definitely feed daily with promix HP and use it in a similar way as coco


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## farmerjoe420 (Feb 17, 2022)

Kassiopeija said:


> that's true, a pot is not a marshland, but still the argument stands. Peat is not inert. The peat in pro-mix is peat-moss, here are excerpts from a master thesis on this ingredient:
> View attachment 5086311
> It even states the nitrogen in peat could be too much for N-sensitive plants.
> I used Biobizz light-mix for 1 time, this is only Peat Moss & Perlit, and it contains ~1200mg/l N.
> ...











(PDF) A Review on the Current State of Knowledge of Growing Conditions, Agronomic Soil Health Practices and Utilities of Hemp in the United States


PDF | Hemp (Cannabis sativa L.) is an emerging high-value specialty crop that can be cultivated for either fiber, seed, or cannabidiol (CBD). The demand... | Find, read and cite all the research you need on ResearchGate




www.researchgate.net





"The most suitable soil for hemp cultivation should have a pH
6.0–7.5 [28] and *according to [*_*55], the optimum soil pH for hemp production ranges between 5.8 and *_*6.0 as it does not grow well in acidic soil.*"




https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=[URL]https://open.library.ubc.ca/media/download/pdf/831/1.0100713/1&ved=2ahUKEwiV7I7k3IP2AhV8if0HHdIqC9AQFnoECBIQAQ&usg=AOvVaw0gDFQxe-fWB7yQkgT6by2P[/URL]



I didn’t see anything remotely close to 1200 mg/l , where did you get that number ? Also, look at those charts and note the EC levels as well as total concentration of Nitrogen. It’s not elevated at all. I doubt that would last more than two weeks in the root zone before it was totally consumed.

Peat based soilless mixes are the most widely used substrates in the nursery field. Nurseries plant millions of seeds annually for the market. Anyone who uses a product like promix knows it is virtually void of nutrients. If it had elevated levels of N due to quality variation, you would have to assume that professional nurseries would not use it to plant seeds in.


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## farmerjoe420 (Feb 17, 2022)

Herb & Suds said:


> I run well water at 8.1 and never check ph after adding anything
> You seemed convinced it must be 5.8 ph
> I haven’t seen any reason to go near that or even think I have issues View attachment 5086141
> But if you think you need to ph in a buffered medium it is your prerogative


Food for thought. This guy is hardly the owner of a company like advanced nutrients. Note he has a Masters and Bachelors in Horticultural science….


I know that picture you posted is almost 8 years old but maybe the next time you grow a plant, try adjusting your nutrient solution PH between 5.8-6.0 and see if your deficiencies subside. I think they will !


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## Kassiopeija (Feb 17, 2022)

farmerjoe420 said:


> I didn’t see anything remotely close to 1200 mg/l , where did you get that number ?


Biobizz Lightmix, peat + perlit.



farmerjoe420 said:


> nutrient solution PH between 5.8-6.0


but the pH should be based on the plant type, isnt it? these general guidelines can never be totally correct

and so much stuff can happen that changes the pH of the rhizodphere, root exsudates acidify, certain nitrogen forms can break down and do this, medium buffers can become deplete and then yeah, the peat is inherently acidic.


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## bam0813 (Feb 17, 2022)

Peat moss and sphagnum moss are the same thing. Sphagnum is the green stuff on surface, peat is sphagnum that’s sunk and decayed over time


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## Herb & Suds (Feb 17, 2022)

farmerjoe420 said:


> Food for thought. This guy is hardly the owner of a company like advanced nutrients. Note he has a Masters and Bachelors in Horticultural science….
> View attachment 5087141
> 
> I know that picture you posted is almost 8 years old but maybe the next time you grow a plant, try adjusting your nutrient solution PH between 5.8-6.0 and see if your deficiencies subside. I think they will !


I really could care less about your thoughts or feelings


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## farmerjoe420 (Feb 17, 2022)

Herb & Suds said:


> I really could care less about your thoughts or feelings


Funny what happens when your faced with something you can’t speak on intelligently.


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## farmerjoe420 (Feb 17, 2022)

Kassiopeija said:


> Biobizz Lightmix, peat + perlit.
> 
> 
> but the pH should be based on the plant type, isnt it? these general guidelines can never be totally correct
> ...


If bio bizz is nothing more than peat and perlite but has upwards of 1200 ppm of N, there has to be something else there adding. It isn’t coming from the peat alone. The study you cited supports that.

As far as PH, yes I think PH is dependent on plant type. Again , the other study you cited put hemp in the 5.8-6.0 range as optimal.

I am speaking solely about soilless mixes and soluble nutrients ,specifically Promix HP as that is what this thread is about. Soil is a different story


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## Herb & Suds (Feb 17, 2022)

farmerjoe420 said:


> Funny what happens when your faced with something you can’t speak on intelligently.


Trolling me makes you very impressive 
Good luck my skin is thick 
Your not doing anything but bragging 
Nothing humble 
Do I have a degree 
Only in real life experience 
But hey it’s your world we all just live in it 
Maybe I’ll try and not offend you in the future Caesar 
But I doubt it 
Snowflake wins this round eh?


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## farmerjoe420 (Feb 17, 2022)

Herb & Suds said:


> Trolling me makes you very impressive
> Good luck my skin is thick
> Your not doing anything but bragging
> Nothing humble
> ...


Nobody is trolling you. If you don’t want to see my posts stop tagging me or just block me. you’re wrong that PH doesn’t matter and I explained why it does. If you think I’m wrong , speak on it.

Otherwise, stop spreading bro science. A newbie will read this one day and may actually take your advice. I mean, you don’t even grow bro. Just be honest. That picture was almost 8 years old.


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## M.O. (Feb 18, 2022)

farmerjoe420 said:


> if the correct pot size is used, you can definitely feed daily with promix HP and use it in a similar way as coco


That makes sense, I’d not considered that.


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## chuckeye (Feb 18, 2022)

ProMix HP, 3 gallon fabric pots, four strains of auto's under a 600w MH in a parabolic reflector.

Non ph'ed well water, fed every watering. Up to 4g/gallon of MC and 1 g/gallon of Bud Explosion now on Day 40....



Cheers


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## PadawanWarrior (Feb 18, 2022)




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## Kassiopeija (Feb 18, 2022)

farmerjoe420 said:


> If bio bizz is nothing more than peat and perlite but has upwards of 1200 ppm of N, there has to be something else there adding. It isn’t coming from the peat alone. The study you cited supports that.
> 
> As far as PH, yes I think PH is dependent on plant type. Again , the other study you cited put hemp in the 5.8-6.0 range as optimal.
> 
> I am speaking solely about soilless mixes and soluble nutrients ,specifically Promix HP as that is what this thread is about. Soil is a different story


Yeah I was thinking the same esp. it's pH is set to 6.3. But the manufacturer denies it, claiming it is very low in minerals. This is a soil for garden herbs, these chalk sensitive, and they grow in an environment like you would treat a hemp seedling.
Biobizz ammends this soil with worm compost + "Premix" (which is their own organic dry fertilizer mix) to increase the NPK from Lightmix 1200mg/L N, 200mg/L P & 200mg/L K (70% Peat 30% Perlit) to
All-Mix NPK 1700 1500 1500 (formulations vary sometimes, I have an old bag that showed 2200 1800 2000) and there, the bags state as ingredients 5% organic dry fertilizer, 10% worm casting, 30% perlit & 55% peat. 
So it stands to reason if they would have used a nitrogen-rich dry ammend fertilizer to boost up the N of their lightmix they would have stated that, too. As so are our regulations.

But I don't see why? they could have just used peat for that nitrogen source. Yesterday I read everything I found about peat in my academic literature








Lehrbuch der Bodenkunde translated to English







soilchem.ethz.ch





it's not much but the entries make it clear that there are so many different forms of peat - more than 10, in various stages of decay. The book explains that the process of breaking down of plant material can come to a halt - due to the anaerobic nature of the marshs, and this does stop the freeing of nitrogen (and else) - which is then still resident as organic macro-molecules, fibre & proteins. Yeah, and then in your pot you generate an aerobic environment where bacteria can break down this matter thereby gradually freeing nutrition ions.
The book generally compares peat to low-nutrition compost.
And further says that there are major local differences depending on the water-influx: if it is only rainwater, the peat is not rich at all. But some marsh are "fed" by surrounding agricultural lands when farmers spray slurry from animals as fert and that can accumulate in marshes as well.
Even sea-water can be the reason why some marshes form and that has a pH of 8.2.

But ultimately, you are right when you state it's about Pro-Mix - which I don't have. But I know alot of growers here that treat peat-mixes like soil in both watering & fertilization practices (pH 6.5 + wet'n'dry cycle) so it works both way. And they water it neutral, even slightly basic as recommended by the manufacturer (but it's organics)









Biobizz Nutrients: Answers From Biobizz


Hello fellow farmers. I thought I'd share an email I got from BioBizz concerning different questions that seem to be popping up again and again so here we go. Question: Everyone knows that charts are just an avarage and every plant is different. But let's say the values given are indeed an...




www.thcfarmer.com


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## xox (Feb 18, 2022)

id like to comment on this ive been using promix since i joined this forum in 2013, im by no means and expert. however from my own personal experience and discussions with the promix support staff over the phone. what i believe is the ph of the medium needs to be buffered to around 6.0-6.1 over time say you have a very long veg period say 3 months and then 2 months of flower the premixed lime will get used up so to speak as well as the peat is naturally acidic. i use a bluelabs probe for checking the ph of the medium. if the ph of the medium is to low you should add something to bring its ph up. it was suggested to me by the promix staff to use a liquid liming agent as it works faster however i prefer powdered dolomite lime. you are all correct you can water promix with whatever ph because within a few hours of watering the ph of your nutrient solution you watered in will swing over to whatever the ph of the medium is at you can see this by checking the medium with a ph probe.


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## M.O. (Feb 19, 2022)

Kassiopeija said:


> Yeah I was thinking the same esp. it's pH is set to 6.3. But the manufacturer denies it, claiming it is very low in minerals. This is a soil for garden herbs, these chalk sensitive, and they grow in an environment like you would treat a hemp seedling.
> Biobizz ammends this soil with worm compost + "Premix" (which is their own organic dry fertilizer mix) to increase the NPK from Lightmix 1200mg/L N, 200mg/L P & 200mg/L K (70% Peat 30% Perlit) to
> All-Mix NPK 1700 1500 1500 (formulations vary sometimes, I have an old bag that showed 2200 1800 2000) and there, the bags state as ingredients 5% organic dry fertilizer, 10% worm casting, 30% perlit & 55% peat.
> So it stands to reason if they would have used a nitrogen-rich dry ammend fertilizer to boost up the N of their lightmix they would have stated that, too. As so are our regulations.
> ...



This is interesting as I never have much troubles at all with nitrogen except for adding too much at the start. I do add a small amount of soybean meal, worm castings and neem meal relying mainly on liquid nutrients.
The goal is to leave them with something longer term and lesson the liquid feed amount. I’ve stopped top dressing more though as it never seems needed and don’t need any extra liquid N either.

My random notes pertaining to this thread:

Late flower my only issues typically are magnesium deficiency brought on by lights too close. They sure seem to need some extra mag though.

Long runs I absolutely need lime late flower and use a liquid. My last 5 gallon run didn’t need much though and maybe could have just toughed it out.

The surfactant they use wears off too and I’m using something starting early flower just to make sure I don’t end up with dry pockets. Bigger the container the more I worry about this.


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## DrOgkush (Feb 19, 2022)

Doing a ph fix on your water before watering into a Promix base media. Your just wasting your money. Promix does not need to be ph’d. my ph can be 4.1 after I mix my base. 
and I still water to runoff. Green as can be. And growing rather rapid. So whoever’s claiming you must ph your water for that type of media is either a very mis lead. Or just a plain out liar. Because I know for a fact. My entire garden should not look the way it does if ph 4.0 was affecting it at all lol.


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## Samwell Seed Well (Feb 19, 2022)

The CeC rating of pro mix says its almost soil but still not


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## Chunky Stool (Mar 4, 2022)

Samwell Seed Well said:


> The CeC rating of pro mix says its almost soil but still not


Peat will hold nutes and they can accumulate, even when watered to runoff. 
Not a big deal, and can be advantageous.


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