# Is 85 degrees dangerous in flowering?



## headbandrocker (Jul 10, 2014)

I am 5 weeks into flower and my plants arent filling out like the ones in the colder room. The temp in this room is 85+-
No co2 is being used and the room has a 8" exaust on constantly with 8"booster fan for intake(also leave the door open)I would usually run this room at night to get around heat,and would have intake pulling air from outside . In this set up it is warmer than I like and I'm seeing smaller buds with fewer crystals than I should at week 5
Is 85 degrees way to hot?


----------



## vostok (Jul 10, 2014)

85c is 185f thats too hot for man or rock, unless you are a cosmonaut..? but 85f is a mild walk in the park at 29 and a half Celsius ..your Sativa strains will love your for it, I can only think that the input temp, your local temp outside is too high, but 85 f is an easy temp to grow in, avoid having the temps in the 90f for any length of time..


----------



## headbandrocker (Jul 10, 2014)

Heres a shot of the ladies ,the room has been 85 the whole run


----------



## headbandrocker (Jul 10, 2014)




----------



## headbandrocker (Jul 10, 2014)

Turned on dehu and it's 80 for night cycle ,is that dangerous?


----------



## mrCRC420 (Jul 10, 2014)

80 isn't dangerous, 90's is dangerous. 80's will slow your growth rates due to stress. It's not good, but your plants will live; just slower than they should. 80 for day temps is not ideal; it's a tad high; but not dangerous.


----------



## skunkd0c (Jul 12, 2014)

mrCRC420 said:


> 80's will slow your growth rates due to stress


85f is ideal for a well kept hydro garden although indoor soil plants do tend to like it cooler


----------



## purplehays1 (Jul 12, 2014)

85+ for more than 1-2 hr a day will stress certain strains, others it is just fine. If you have plants that dont tolerate it well and u cant lower the temps, run a different strain, hard to tell you from the pictures. I had a strain called True OG that i ran 3 times. Once i vegged at 85-95 degrees (hot summer no choice) and she grew great, then flowered at 80-90 (only 85+ for like 4 hrs a days) and the yield was the best if the 3. Some bitchs like it hot, others will straight wilt and hate you at 85-90 degrees.


----------



## ttystikk (Jul 15, 2014)

All these comments and no one mentioned RH? For shame!

If your RH is above 60% the plants will thrive on temps in the mid 80s, but they will suffer if RH is too low. This is independent of adding CO², although CO² will certainly bring big dividends in a high temp, high RH environment.

From the sound of things, you have an RH management problem as much as a temp problem. Adding some daytime humidity will help both considerably, I use a swamp cooler to maximise the effect.

Another thing to do to help manage summertime temps is to extract air from the room as close as possible to the lamps themselves; this minimises convective and conductive heat gains in the space. I used a length of 8"exhaust duct and placed the opening right behind the socket carrier of my wide open adjust-a-wing and the room hardly warms up at all under the HPS thouie in it.

From both a heat management as well as a lighting engineer's perspective, it's a fool's errand to blow cooling air on bare bulbs. Try to avoid it as much as possible. Sucking the exhaust air from nearby is another thing and is just as often recommended.


----------



## headbandrocker (Jul 17, 2014)

Thanks for the reply!
I can keep the RH AT 55% just by turning off the dehu 
I am pumping ac treated air /co2 treated air into this room now,and wonder If there is any benefit to treating both spaces as one,ie the room with co2 /ac acting as a 24hr lung room. I believe I would need one fan pulling from each room and into the next. Co2 would be on 24 hrs aswell as co2.. 
Would this be ok ?


----------



## urgod (Aug 4, 2014)

bare HID bulbs is like barebacking. being that close to the plants is asking for fire... unless those are CFLs lol


----------



## headbandrocker (Aug 4, 2014)

Barebackins preety awsome though lol...but I would never use a cfl unless it was to see better in a coat closet.
plenty of folkes run bare bulb hids and do great and don't burn there gardens down.. The plants seem to love the light,I would however add I will not run another 85f room,slows down growth ....they just don't like it :/ 75 f was my best results.


----------



## purplehays1 (Aug 4, 2014)

headbandrocker said:


> Barebackins preety awsome though lol...but I would never use a cfl unless it was to see better in a coat closet.
> plenty of folkes run bare bulb hids and do great and don't burn there gardens down.. The plants seem to love the light,I would however add I will not run another 85f room,slows down growth ....they just don't like it :/ 75 f was my best results.


ya some strains def will not like 85 degrees, others love it. 85 is pretty much the threshold above it most plants get unhappy, but its totally fine with most sativa strains.


----------



## headbandrocker (Aug 4, 2014)

The wifi alien is not loving it right now. I was told bare bulb 600 distance should be 8-10" away from plant tops(lights are on mover)
But I backed em off to 10-14 " away for 2+ weeks...
And now are at 8-12" away The plants closer to the light are doing better than the ones just a short distance away...
I don't know if the slower ripining buds are due to heat in growroom(cookies and bubba,and Larry og look great tho) or I have the bulb to close or too far away.... I am going to turn my exaust into an intake with filter and see if I can drop temps a bit.... 
I can get my hand really close to the lights with out them being to warm....I believe I should be growing plants right outside this distance....
Any feedback on bare bulb on a mover distance to plant canopy?


----------



## headbandrocker (Aug 4, 2014)

If heat is the issue should I just give them longer to ripen or is the damage done? I have seen a few naners on the wifialien,but some of the wifis in the top growing rack(furthest from any light ) are doin best?? They look like there supposed to... I'm stumped


----------



## hydroMD (Aug 4, 2014)

Thays too close for a bare bulb unless your ambient room temos are mid 60's! Im guessing if you put your thermometer 12" from a bare bulb your pishing mid 90's. If the plants further away look good maybe thats telling you something. Too hot or too close.

I run open hood 600's aboit 18" from canopy due to heat. 1000s i keep at about 32".


Only time ive ran a 600w light 12"is when im venting hoods amd doing a single plant.


----------



## Wilksey (Aug 4, 2014)

hydroMD said:


> Thays too close for a bare bulb unless your ambient room temos are mid 60's! Im guessing if you put your thermometer 12" from a bare bulb your pishing mid 90's. If the plants further away look good maybe thats telling you something. Too hot or too close.
> 
> I run open hood 600's aboit 18" from canopy due to heat. 1000s i keep at about 32".
> 
> ...



Agree.

That bulb looks WAY too close to those plants.


----------



## purplehays1 (Aug 4, 2014)

> The wifi alien is not loving it right now. I was told bare bulb 600 distance should be 8-10" away from plant tops(lights are on mover)


I am running a 400w and when i had it bare bulb i couldn't get anywhere near 10 inch. I dont think 10 inch from a 600w is going to work try like 14"


----------



## PatchKid (Aug 4, 2014)

I try not to get above 80 but my first plant I grew loved the higher temps.... guess it depends on strain


----------



## headbandrocker (Aug 4, 2014)

Even though lights are moving on a lightrail ? The bulb doesn't spend much time in front of the plants ...
Hmm so I will try 14" my light rail moves 5+ ft are you sure they will get enough light?


----------



## headbandrocker (Aug 4, 2014)

h   
Here they have been moved 14-15" away on eitherside,lets see if they snap out of it.


----------



## hydroMD (Aug 4, 2014)

Will you post a pic of the back side of your trellis?!? Your set up is sweet bro. I have heard about states whos laws are by sq. Ft. rather than plant numbers going to this style. Pretty dope brotha. I couldnt see it very well from your first pics. Dope. 

Could you attack a box fan at the end of each mover to create some wind current? Might help. 

Also perhaps seperating the two bulbs by a foot or so would help diatribute heat evenly. 

I havent ever implemented light movers so I couldnt tell you for certain what the limits are. I error on the side of caution until i have a plant dialed in though.. having your light 12" too far away is going to give you better results than being 6" too close


----------



## headbandrocker (Aug 4, 2014)

I will post some pics behind the canopy for you when lights go on tomorow king,One thing id like to dial in is medium in the 18 gal tubs. The promix i used was not even 50% filled with roots and i never got runoff once:/ I am interested in coco but seems like it would need a shit ton of water to feed. I have been thinking of how to do drip with a rack system like this: maybe have a empty rack with one res on each shelf?


----------



## hydroMD (Aug 5, 2014)

headbandrocker said:


> I will post some pics behind the canopy for you when lights go on tomorow king,One thing id like to dial in is medium in the 18 gal tubs. The promix i used was not even 50% filled with roots and i never got runoff once:/ I am interested in coco but seems like it would need a shit ton of water to feed. I have been thinking of how to do drip with a rack system like this: maybe have a empty rack with one res on each shelf?


It would be pretty sweet to use hydroton. Link all your tubs. Run the bottom row into a reservoir that has a pump feeding back i to the top row of tubs and just use a waterfall in current nft  

(Hope that made sense)


Id like to do a hydro version of this using vinyl posts and net pots. No medium.


----------



## hydroMD (Aug 5, 2014)

Also where are your fans!!


----------



## headbandrocker (Aug 5, 2014)

Ive been on a quest to get plants like I had in hydroton! This last year i spent with promix and havent come close ...I once did a constant drip with hydroton and had the healthiest plant ive ever had,the thing had bark
.Is your idea a constant drip or timed drip? I like it tell me more!
However The bottom rack would be hard to fit anything under in this setup.
I have been playing with the hempy cup idea for all my veg needs this month and am quite impressed so far.This made me wonder if it would be possible in the rack reality..I have a drain hole in each tub so unless i could do it through that fitting i would need new tubs....Not sure if drip or hempy would require more water,but I do have a 70,and 2x100 gal res i could use...My ro is just very slow lol 
This room could be bannanas in hydroton!!
*There are 2 wall fans and 3 floor fans and 2 x 8"in/out


----------



## JointOperation (Aug 5, 2014)

85 isn't horrible.. but if u can drop it to 80.. ud be fine.. for sure.. but ive had some plants love it up at 83.. and some hate it..

the only thing is.. by the end of flower if u keep temps high .. theres a chance for mold.. so if temps are higher.. just toss a few extra wall fans or osc fans to get that rooms air moving more if ur worried


----------



## WORDZofWORDZCRAFT (Aug 5, 2014)

yeah lets get some more pics up cuz your grow is the bees knees


----------



## purplehays1 (Aug 5, 2014)

i have never been able to run a bare bulb, as much fun as bare backing is . I always find the heat to distance ratio is just not good enough, the glass blocks a lot more heat then light, it is better to have the glass and get the light 1/2 the distance away IMHO.


----------



## purplehays1 (Aug 5, 2014)

get some tubes for those before you burn your house down!!


----------



## ficklejester (Aug 5, 2014)

headbandrocker said:


> Turned on dehu and it's 80 for night cycle ,is that dangerous?


A dehumidifier creates heat. If humidity is below 70 and no signs of mold/mildew, I'd leave it off at night.


----------



## hydroMD (Aug 5, 2014)

headbandrocker said:


> Ive been on a quest to get plants like I had in hydroton! This last year i spent with promix and havent come close ...I once did a constant drip with hydroton and had the healthiest plant ive ever had,the thing had bark
> .Is your idea a constant drip or timed drip? I like it tell me more!
> However The bottom rack would be hard to fit anything under in this setup.
> I have been playing with the hempy cup idea for all my veg needs this month and am quite impressed so far.This made me wonder if it would be possible in the rack reality..I have a drain hole in each tub so unless i could do it through that fitting i would need new tubs....Not sure if drip or hempy would require more water,but I do have a 70,and 2x100 gal res i could use...My ro is just very slow lol
> ...



First off!!! Low 80's arent bad, butI highly recomend dropping things to 74-78f your last week!! Your terpen profile should be much more established 

On to your badass setup,


I would just run a constant flow. 

How far off the ground is the bottom of your tray?

You could use a 18 gallon tub with a float valve in it below the drain on your bottom row of trays. Run a line from the float valve to a big 30gallon tub with air stones above it.. As the water is pumped from the small tub below to your system, the float valve will keep the water level below your bottom trays creating good circulatiin. When your olants drink enough that the water level goes down in your control bucket, you top off will fill it back up until the float valve is back to the proper level. You would only need a tiny pump, so getting too much water in your system from your big res. up top shouldnt be a problem.

Could actually make for a really simple grow! And most of your water is always in your reservoirs making ph changes quick and painless!!


----------



## hydroMD (Aug 5, 2014)

I would actually recomend using vinyl posts with net pots in them. Run them with a real slight grade zigzagging down. If you wanted to get really boss, install quick releases on each row so you can add and remove levels at will and have a perperual vert setup!

OH MY GOODNESS!!!


----------



## headbandrocker (Aug 6, 2014)

i may be able to reach that temp by turning off 3 lights and only running 3,do you think that would that work? 
You talking about the HD white fence post? How far would net pot be from bottom of post where water runs? Would i need to rootprune to maintain flow? Do you know if the posts are 6ft? I might be willing to try it on a rack or 2 if i can put it together cheaply,ive never done nft ,you could even veg the posts in a table in another room for a week then just move em to the ziggyrackythingy every week,baddass but how would you feed if rows are different ages ? 1000ppm or?


----------



## headbandrocker (Aug 6, 2014)

I am curious if coco would work in the rack bed reality...


----------



## headbandrocker (Aug 6, 2014)

In a last ditch effort to controll heat I am goin tO flip my exaust into an intake and see if this helps at all... Fingers crossed


----------



## hydroMD (Aug 6, 2014)

headbandrocker said:


> i may be able to reach that temp by turning off 3 lights and only running 3,do you think that would that work?
> You talking about the HD white fence post? How far would net pot be from bottom of post where water runs? Would i need to rootprune to maintain flow? Do you know if the posts are 6ft? I might be willing to try it on a rack or 2 if i can put it together cheaply,ive never done nft ,you could even veg the posts in a table in another room for a week then just move em to the ziggyrackythingy every week,baddass but how would you feed if rows are different ages ? 1000ppm or?


I run about 800ppm on average, but some strains like more. 

I dont think the root mass will stop the flow, perhaps slow things a little, but water should flow through alright. 

Wondering how to perperuate things since your trellace is fixed. If you coukd attach a trellace to the row itself so each row was completely independant? then just make some sort of rack you can easily switch levels with one person on each end. Have 3 rows and harvest one every 3 weeks or so 

Coco would work great. Id suggest a drip system to water rather than a flood/drain with it though.


----------



## headbandrocker (Aug 6, 2014)

It would fairly easy to flower a rack week , you think things would Improve if I staggered them a week apart?


----------



## purplehays1 (Aug 8, 2014)

headbandrocker said:


> Even though lights are moving on a lightrail ? The bulb doesn't spend much time in front of the plants ...
> Hmm so I will try 14" my light rail moves 5+ ft are you sure they will get enough light?


As with all things in cultivation it seems, it is a delicate balance between maximizing light and minimizing heat stress. i think 14" from a 600w is perfect, but i have honestly never used a 600w just 1000w's and this little 400w ive been running for only a few weeks. I figure a 600w would be a middle between the two and i used to run my 1000's at about 18" (with glass). And when i say 14" i mean from the general top of the canopy, not the tallest nug (in your case closest nug).


----------



## Fazer1rlg (Aug 8, 2014)

spidermites love high temps so I would say try to lower the temps if you want to avoid pests. Prevention is key.


----------



## headbandrocker (Aug 8, 2014)

I have switched things around a bit in attempt to deal with heat better.
I took of my 8" exaust that was running 24/7 and am using that hole to outdoors as a passive intake.
I hooked up the filter and 8" vortex fan to now exaust into the house...
Any tips on active vs passive intake? I have a 12" fan outside I could use aswell...


----------



## JointOperation (Sep 21, 2014)

85 isn't that bad honestly. depends on how often ur airflow is.. because ive had rooms at 80-85 with lots of air cirucloation coming in from outside.. and turned out great.. but had it with less airflow fresh air and it sucked.. n they stretched and was fluffy nug instead dense.


----------



## headbandrocker (Sep 22, 2014)

I could try constant intake and run at night if that's the case,I've done that before with decent results . This last run in there was fluff city,only difference was I ran during the day and swapped the intake to an exaust,but the air was warm by the time it got into the room..I will give it a go again but at night this time


----------



## JointOperation (Sep 23, 2014)

ya man. switch to night for sure.. that's how we run the majority of our grows.. even if we flip flop.. we usually run at night as much as we can.. and then run as little AC as needed.. maybe a bigger extraction fan .

also switching to night .. u can just leave the lights off for an extra 12 hours. to switch the cycle.. if your plants are healthy not stressed.. it shouldn't cause any issues..


----------



## RetiredMatthebrute (Sep 23, 2014)

I agree 85 is not deadly, but its also not optimal either. I found 76-78 to be the best temps. just keep good airflow and make sure ti does not get any hotter. Also like someone else said night time light cycles will help reduce temps.


----------



## ttystikk (Sep 23, 2014)

Mid eighties are great if you have optimal RH and CO² supplementation.


----------



## headbandrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

On my last co2 run I had temps of 85-87 and used promix,(had like zero roots) that run was horrible but I have wrote it off as learning . 
This run was coco/perlite 5050 and I left the ac on 24/7 and no dehu untill last week or two and i used co2 however room was at 70-78 and did amazing .... I am truly impressed with coco. No sweetners carbs etc just canna coco and pk 13/14 I have never seen such crystal ly nuggetry .
Hopefully this next night schedule rocks ,
Bless and thanks for all your advice


----------



## JointOperation (Oct 10, 2014)

ive noticed.. faster flowering if i can keep it 78-80 during lights on.. and 72-76 lights off temps.. had faster finishing then my winter grow that stays more like 76 lights on.. 68 lights off.


----------



## DirtyNerd (Oct 18, 2014)

Cool set up i like it i like it a lot


----------



## Cannasutraorganics (Oct 20, 2014)

Are you adding silicon to,the water? If not, add it. 85 will run like everyone else's 75.


----------



## headbandrocker (Nov 2, 2014)

Thanks for the heads up,I do use silica , temps should be lower now that we'll have some cold nights ahead...
I will know tonight If it's under control


----------



## legallyflying (Nov 5, 2014)

It's not a death blow but really good quality weed (even with co2 is not grown above 80). 

It causes a lot of stretch as well when you night time diff really starts climbing


----------



## HighLowGrow (Nov 7, 2014)

My room is not controlled one bit out in the shop. I do the best I can. This was a heat wave around 7/17/14. Didn't seem to affect much plant wise. I was drenched after doing the grow room duties though.


----------



## kupihea (Nov 15, 2014)

my little lab is doing 82 degrees at 65 RH. What is the story on CO2.... could it help me?


----------



## JointOperation (Nov 15, 2014)

depends on your co2 levels. but most of the time YA it helps bump up yields..


----------



## Flagg420 (Nov 15, 2014)

More CO2 available lets plants survive better at higher temps. Also make sure you have enough air movement, and low enough humidity.... other than that, its high... but its at the edge of "still ok" for a peak temp....


----------



## kupihea (Nov 15, 2014)

Thanks for the replies. I'll start rereading about it.

Aloha


----------



## Hempire828 (May 19, 2019)

Bump

Anyone else running into 80’s or higher trying to flower... 

I’m thinking about flipping to get things rolling.. they are 7 weeks old and around 14-16 inches.. I’m worry about the heat... I’m running mostly sativa dominant strains and plan to run my 12/12 cycle at night.. 8-8 or 9-9..

This 315 in my 3x3 is a lil warmer than my blurples but at the same time plants are growing like crazy. I’m hoping the Sativas will like it...


----------



## a mongo frog (May 19, 2019)

Hempire828 said:


> Anyone else running into 80’s or higher trying to flower...


Probably 90% of this site!!!!


----------



## GBAUTO (May 19, 2019)

Every time. My goal is 84degF and 45%RH


----------



## ttystikk (May 20, 2019)

People who run LED lights prefer mid 80s.

315W lights might be okay with that.

HPS lights, no way.


----------



## ttystikk (Jun 5, 2019)

ttystikk said:


> All these comments and no one mentioned RH? For shame!
> 
> If your RH is above 60% the plants will thrive on temps in the mid 80s, but they will suffer if RH is too low. This is independent of adding CO², although CO² will certainly bring big dividends in a high temp, high RH environment.
> 
> ...


My, how times have changed...


----------

