# My Secret Jardin DR300W setup and review



## Hotwired (Aug 4, 2008)

This is the 5' x 10' x 6.7' tent made by Secret Jardin. I also have the DR120 which I will setup and review next week.

I ordered the tents thru my local hydro shop and got them within a week. Total cost was $924 ($635 for the DR300W and $235 for the DR120) for both tents with taxes and delivery.

First let me tell you this, if you have a friend you can trust then let him/her help you with the DR300W. You can do it yourself, I did, but another person will definitely be helpful.

*DAY 1*

The tents come in their own carry cases but the DR300W is very clumsy to carry by the handles because most of the weight is on one side. (The DR120 is very easy and comfortable to carry in its case)

Once you open up the case and pull all the stuff out look for a piece of paper with the "instructions" on it. These "instructions" are just pictures of what they want you to do.

Don't get upset and throw a tantram but if you are stoned....forget about it lol. You really got to figure it out by yourself once you unfold the *HUGE ASS* skin. There are zippers everywhere and you might get a bit confused. I was confused as hell at first but I took a few puffs before working 

Next.......I took the parts out and put them in order. They come with "lettered" poles. A, B, C, D, E, F and I, and also all the corner and middle plastic holders for the poles.

I put these together very easily. The hard part was getting this huge skin the cover the frame. Like I said earlier, you really could use some help with this part. So next I released the zippers and pulled them back as far as they would go. I tried to follow the "instructions" but after looking at the pics and then looking down at what was on the floor in front of me, I just laughed and said fuck it.

Basically you need to start from the back of the frame and work the skin over the top. Make sure the 2 bottom window flaps are in the back when you start. This will save from later problems. Once you have the top on snugly you then work the bottom of the skin *UNDER *the frame and make that nice and snug.

You will have a huge ass piece of the skin left over and it all seems like a million zippers. Be very careful with this part and make sure you have plenty of room to manuever the skin around and pull it all to the front. If you pull too hard you take a chance of ripping a seam.

Once you fit it into place you can start zipping up the zippers. If you do it right everything should be all *SQUARE AND SNUG*. 

Now you can look up and see what wonders you have built. If you did it all right it should look kick ass.

They also give you a reflective flooring piece that fits snugly on the bottom and has small velcro straps that fit around the poles to keep it in place. I then closed up shop. I had enough for the day.

*DAY 2*

Finished up with a few things. Took a good look at all the socks and windows from the inside of the tent with a few lights on outside and the zippers all closed.

You can see a lot of the pinholes from inside a dark tent. My eyes were first drawn to the 2 large 8" socks on either side of the tent. The sewing around these particular socks was done *VERY POORLY. *

I could see light coming in thru the stitches almost fully around one sock and half way around the other. Not sure how to fix this but maybe use black duct tape around the outside.

There were 2 half inch "openings" on the stitching where the sides hug the poles. Could have been me when stretching the skin on tightly but it seemed random. I closed these up with black duct tape.

Thes rest were a few small holes and about 10 or so pin holes here and there. Overall not a bad job, but I'm not extremely happy either.

Off the bat with the work done so far I will now give everything about the DR300W a scoring table. This will be a preliminary score based on what I've done so far,

Side and Bottom Poles - 8 of 10. I give this score because I feel the poles could be a bit stronger. They use 2 poles to make one length of connection between the plastic holders. Overall not bad but could be better.

Top Poles - 5 of 10. I feel these poles are subpar for holding the estimated weight they claim it holds. The poles bend quite a bit in the middle and they seem to be made more cheaply than the other poles. Granted they are still strong, but they can't hold as much as they say they can.

Plastic Holders (12) - 9 of 10. The holders do their job quite well....so far.

Zippers - 8 of 10. Right now the zippers are holding up fine. They get caught from time to time but they hide the light very vell and I have seen no light leaks thus far.

Bottom Window Slots (2 in the back and 2 on the sides) - 7 of 10. Good for air intake with nice screens to keep out pests. Problem is they let light in when they are open. Use at your own discretion.

Top Side Socks (2) - 2 of 10. Poorly done. Almost all the stitches around the socks are letting light thru. Don't know how to fix this problem,

Bottom Side Socks (2) - 8 of 10. I have not noticed any leaks here. I will take a closer look tho.

Rooftop Socks (2) - 5 of 10. These have the same problems as the side socks but not as badly done. Not sure how to fix this either.

Electrical Sock Outlets (3, all in the rear) - 8 of 10. So far no light leaks around the stitches. Will investigate further.

Seams - 8 of 10. Not bad overall. The stitching has random places where it has broke but I can't tell if this was from delivery, installation, or it was made that way. Either way it was still very well done.

Skin - 6 of 10. Pinholes here and there. A few small holes that seem random. Very thin skin overall but has its good points such as reflection of light and absorbtion of heat. This will be reviewed again many times over its use.

Overall score - 6 of 10. I didn't buy something that I deem "expensive" just to tape it up in places where it was poorly made. If the price for the DR300W was about $435 ($200 cheaper than I paid) then I wouldn't be so hard on the overall score.

Remember these scores are for right now. They will definitely change over time as I get real usage out of them. I will update this thread over the next days and weeks with info and maybe some pics if I can get my camera fixed.

Any questions just ask and I'll do my best to answer them


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## Hotwired (Aug 4, 2008)

Well since no one is interested I'll stop posting about the tent.

But it's great for chopping people up in!!


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## NewGrowth (Aug 4, 2008)

Don't stop bro you wrote a really good review of this tent so far I want to see how it does in actual growing conditions.


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## koalabear (Aug 4, 2008)

i emjoyed the thread thoroughly please keep on update


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## Hotwired (Aug 4, 2008)

NewGrowth said:


> Don't stop bro you wrote a really good review of this tent so far I want to see how it does in actual growing conditions.


OK, but I have to clean it up after pulling a "Dexter" in there 



koalabear said:


> i emjoyed the thread thoroughly please keep on update


Will do 

I will be doing test runs for the next 2 or 3 days checking for noise and heat problems. Once I turn on my 2 x 1000 watt lights I can check for more holes/tears from the outside. I'm using a can filter 33 with the lights and fan all hooked up together

I'm not sure where I will put the Vortex fan yet. It fits great right in the middle of the room between the 2 lights. The pole is handling the weight well, but it seems to be at it's peak of about 25 - 30 pounds. I really wouldn't want to do much more weight there.

I may also put it on the rooftop corner and move some top poles around to handle the weight. This way it can pull thru the filter and 2 lights instead of pulling thru the filter and 1 light and blowing into the other. It really depends on the noise because I want to keep it relatively quiet during the night. 

I already have an idea to fix the noise at night problem by using a Whisperline 4" or 6" fan connected to a can filter 2600 and exhausting it straight out into my room. There will be no need for a high powered fan once the lights are off. 100 or so cfm will clean the full room in 3 minutes. That's plenty of fresh air to have during lights off. 

Both fans will run off different timers and that problem will take care of itself. So far I like the tent. I love the fact that I don't need to take my room apart or hang shit all over the walls like my last 3 grows. No more covering windows and putting shit up around doors. My house stays squeaky clean and I only had to put 1 exhaust hole into the attic. You can't even see the duct going up into the hole because the tent mostly blocks it.

The tent is really like its own environment. You don't have to mess with your house at all and *THAT* is where this = money well spent.

I will hook up the electric tomorrow and give a detailed review of my test runs. Once I'm happy with noise/heat issues I will germ my 21 afghani kush fems and get started


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## BCtrippin (Aug 4, 2008)

Great thread, Im thinking of ordering a pair of their 7'11" x 7'11" for flowering rooms.

Let us know how it handles the heat, and the weight of all the gear


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## The Coolest Nikka What (Aug 4, 2008)

So I'm also growning some weed you know just some good ole' Ryno Weed I know not the best but not the worst. And I had just learned that cops now have special cameras that can see the electricty or the type of heat that watt lamps can emit. And my question is there any way to repel or not get noticed when they pass the camera by. I really need help.


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## BCtrippin (Aug 5, 2008)

Hey there Nikka welcome to the forums, I think you meant to post a new thread not a reply in someone else's thread, but Anyways

I think what your asking is how to avoid Thermal cameras. Heat is the problem for IR cameras, this can be solved with proper ventilation, and A/C if needed, How you vent and where you vent is VERY important. If you vent to your attic you it will get very hot and be noticeably hotter then surrounding houses, if you run a big duct pumping hot air out a window then they will see the hot air pumping out the house all day. 

Best option is to build a box over the window put a small a/c in the box if you have to and problem solved.

The cameras can see heat, but they are not X-Ray cameras, if there is a pocket of cold air in your house between your grow room and the roof then the camera will not be able to see past that.

Also there are certain products on the market that Thermal cameras cant see through, Im sure a quick google search and you could find something.

The most important thing with Thermal cameras is that you dont want your whole house, and especially attic to be noticeably hotter then the surrounding houses.

Also I wouldnt be too worried unless you are running over 12000w of lights.

Hope that helps, happy growing


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## Hotwired (Aug 5, 2008)

Ok folks just got done with a few more items. I'm telling you man this is hard work for an out of shape fatty 

Today I hung the lights and positioned the 8" Vortex fan. I tried the fan in the middle pulling thru the can filter 33 and 1 light and blowing thru the other light. The poles held all the weight very well but that was because I positioned the poles to carry the loads of the lights and fan very carefully.

Once everything was up I let the fan rip on its highest speed. Everything was working fine but I felt a lot of air coming out thru the gaskets of the light that the fan was blowing thru. This was no good because of air leaks.

So I took the fan out and positioned a few poles under the rooftop sock. I then placed the fan on top of the rooftop sock and attached my duct accordingly. I redid the duct between the 2 lights and did a test run again at highest speed. 

This seemed to do the trick. The weight of the fan was being held very nicely by the 2 poles and the mainframe poles underneath it. There was no more air leak because the fan was pulling thru both lights and filter now. I even attached a speed controller to the fan and set it at 50%. You might think that 50% wasn't enough but believe me this 720 cfm fan was still pulling like crazy.

I just need to attach it to the duct leading into the attic and I'm set. So basically I have a can filter 33 sitting on a speaker stand 2 feet up, ducted to my first light and then another small 20" piece of duct to the second light. This is then attached to another 3' piece of duct which goes out the rooftop sock and connects to the fan sitting on top of the tent. Then it's only another 2' and it's in the attic. All set with that crap 

Now I need to hook up the electric. I have a special 6 outlet 240 volt case that was specifically made for ballasts. 4 of the outlets are for ballasts and 2 of the outlets are for fans. This hooks up to a 30 amp wall outlet and uses a 20 amp wall outlet for the timer.

Once I get the electric done I will turn on the lights and start my noise and heat test runs. I should have this done very soon.

So far what I like the best is that my house is still in one piece. I can take all this shit apart and the only thing you would see is the small hole in my ceiling. Everything else is contained in the tent and in the attic. 

I will update more tomorrow


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## KryptoBud (Aug 5, 2008)

thanx for the info.I'm looking into buying something similiar as soon as I can find one at least 4x4 and no taller than 6ft. it has to fit in my basement.I am looking forward 2 c how your tent turns out once you have everything up in runnin.Good luck!


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## monkeyphunk (Aug 5, 2008)

actually im glad you reviewed this product i was just lookin at it online but now that you say there are all these pin holes i dont dsee the point i thought it would be an answer to grow light cycles and aviod hermaphoditing them


Hotwired said:


> Well since no one is interested I'll stop posting about the tent.
> 
> But it's great for chopping people up in!!


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## BCtrippin (Aug 5, 2008)

Hey You mentioned ducting into the attic. This can be a bad idea, the last thing in the world you would want is an attic that is noticeably hotter then all the surrounding houses.

Just a thought, something you might want to consider.


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## NewGrowth (Aug 5, 2008)

BCtrippin said:


> Hey You mentioned ducting into the attic. This can be a bad idea, the last thing in the world you would want is an attic that is noticeably hotter then all the surrounding houses.
> 
> Just a thought, something you might want to consider.


Thermal imaging is not used as much here in the US and they only use it to identify major grow-ops.


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## BCtrippin (Aug 6, 2008)

NewGrowth said:


> Thermal imaging is not used as much here in the US and they only use it to identify major grow-ops.


Fair enough, but it would still be bad having heat pumped into the attic. Not as much doesnt mean never. It would only take one flyby to notice the difference in heat compared to all the neighbors. They may be for larger grow ops, that would just mean that they would send more people and raid your house just to find a few plants.


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## Hotwired (Aug 6, 2008)

Foget the heat in the attic guys. It's too hot here all year round. They can't tell the difference.


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## NewGrowth (Aug 6, 2008)

Hotwired said:


> Foget the heat in the attic guys. It's too hot here all year round. They can't tell the difference.


There is our answer, I guess he does not live in canada


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## smokindope (Sep 2, 2008)

careful with venting in the attic..anyone ever thought of mold growing from the humidity?


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## upabove (Sep 24, 2008)

I just picked up the dr120 and its great. My DIY tent just wasnt doing the job. Thanks for your reviews!


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## voltaire64 (Sep 25, 2008)

Hotwired said:


> Well since no one is interested I'll stop posting about the tent.
> 
> But it's great for chopping people up in!!


Keep up the review. I'm particularly interested in the dr 120 so I'll be really watching the thread. Any chance of pics?


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## stoverdro (Sep 25, 2008)

One question.what were the overall dimensions again specifically width by depth.
very curious as im looking for some growing tents but i need a large one as in maybe 6 ft by 6 ft. I know htg supply makes one but i heard they lack on there quality. I know oyu said like 5 ft by 10 ft and some other but can you label it height and width and stuff.sorry if i totally missed it man.thanks for the review by the way bro!


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## Tanuvan (Nov 6, 2008)

Anyone find a solution to...

Bottom Window Slots (2 in the back and 2 on the sides) - 7 of 10. Good for air intake with nice screens to keep out pests. Problem is they let light in when they are open. Use at your own discretion.

How do you vent without using the bottom flaps?


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## forseti (Nov 7, 2008)

Ducting through the bottom intakes, at least thats what I intend to do. Just put a turn in it somewhere to trap the light.


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## Bublonichronic (Jan 9, 2009)

i just bought a Dr150 and i love it, there are some light leeks but it is def. better than that death box of a hydro hut, i wouldnt buy any other brand


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## Hotwired (Jan 9, 2009)

I heard the new Hydro's are way better now.

Anyways I gave up finishing this review. On my 4th grow now with wonderful success. It just wasn't worth it for me to write all this shit down and not even get 1 simple +rep. Almost 1200 views and no rep at all.

I'm gonna be stuck on minus rep forever.........lol screw it


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## Poon69 (Jan 9, 2009)

If I knew how to find the feckin +rep button on here I'd hit u up mate. Can't find it since they changed the fuckin graphics on here. Point me in the right direction. This is a good review seein as I'm about to purchase a grow tent, carbon filter and intake n exhaust fans and, similarly, vent straight from the top of the tent 3" into my attic. I'd like to know how it all looks mate and what temp probs u may have experienced. e.g. what sort of timescales did u leaves fans on for to achieve optimum temps. At what cfm were they running? Did u find it gettin too hot or too cold in the tent at all and how did u solve that? Keep it up pls buddy, and as I said, tell me where the bleedin +rep is nowadays! lol


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## Hotwired (Jan 10, 2009)

Poon69 said:


> If I knew how to find the feckin +rep button on here I'd hit u up mate. Can't find it since they changed the fuckin graphics on here. Point me in the right direction. This is a good review seein as I'm about to purchase a grow tent, carbon filter and intake n exhaust fans and, similarly, vent straight from the top of the tent 3" into my attic. I'd like to know how it all looks mate and what temp probs u may have experienced. e.g. what sort of timescales did u leaves fans on for to achieve optimum temps. At what cfm were they running? Did u find it gettin too hot or too cold in the tent at all and how did u solve that? Keep it up pls buddy, and as I said, tell me where the bleedin +rep is nowadays! lol


 
hehe...I changed my shit back to the old style. Went to my setting and options to change it.

I'll try to answer some of your questions.

*What temp problems did I have?*

First let me explain what different temps outide the tent can do to your grow.

The most important things to know about inline fans is how loud they are (if you need stealth) and how much air they can pull thru the line with all the static pressure. If stealth is not an issue than by all means use any fan to do the job. Just try to calculate how strong of a fan you need to pull your old air out or to cool your light.

It's different for every situation. You need to take into account what air is going to be feeding your room. Is it from outside? Hot or cold? Is it from inside? Warm or cool? Here is the trick. You can cool a 1000 watt hps with a little 200 cfm fan IF you are using outside air that is around or below 60 degress F. If your room was 75 degrees inside and you were using the 60 degree outside air to cool your lights and tent, it would probably stay at room temp with another small fan pulling air out of the tent.

But if the temp of the air outside is above the inside air then you will have problems. You will then be forced to use the air in your room to cool your tent. This is when you decide if you want a portable A/C or not. Or if you have central air you can chose to keep your house on 75....of course the consequences of this will be a much higher electric bill.

I have had all these problems. When it's nice and cool outside I use outside air (under 75) to cool my tent and lights. Otherwise the A/C goes on. When it is 60 degrees or under outside my tent stays around 75. Perfect shit. 

But, when the temps go up, you need to counter this with higher cfm from your fans (or a port A/C). At least the one for the lights. 75 degree air can still cool your lights quite nicely IF you have enough air speed and volume going by the bulbs. The fan for the filter can still be kept on low speed if you take care of the lights properly.

*Timescale for leaving fans on?*

Well I have 2 16" circulation fans that stay on LOW 24/7. You can hardly hear them. I have a TD-150 (wired on low) pulling air thru a Can 33 filter on 24/7. I have another TD-150 (wired on HI) pulling air thru two 1000 watt lights. This fan is on only when the lights are on.

Yes, I waste a lot of space with the 16" circulation fans. One foot on each side of the tent, but it's worth it.

*What cfm were they running? *

Well this is hard to tell. You can go by the manufacturers specs but you really need a good gauge to calculate exactly what the fan is pulling. It all depends on the length of duct and static pressure. The specs might say "this fan can pull 300 cfm", but you really need a gauge at the beggining of the run to tell how much cfm is really being used.

But I think you want to know what cfm these fans run at, Here is a link to the fans and their specs:

http://www.hvacquick.com/spfnconfig.php?fm=td

I use two TD-150's. One for the lights (wired on HI), and one for my filter (wired on LOW). The fan on low speed runs at 220 cfm @ 0 static pressure. I'm running it thru my filter because the specs say this fan can do 24 cfm at .75 sp. Well that's just bullshit cause I'm pulling over 100 cfm thru the filter. AND....this is with a 10' run with 2 elbows. Working like a charm with no struggle at all.
The fan wired HI speed runs at almost 300 cfm @ 0 sp. I wired this on HI because I knew I would need the extra cfm to cool the lights. Plus the run is over 20' long with 2 elbows. Works fine with no stuggle at all. I figure I'm pulling at least 250 cfm even at this length. These fans are MUCH stronger than they say they are. It's why I exchanged the TD-200 I ordered for another 150. The 200 is as stong as a Vortex.

This is how I leave them. I won't use a speed controller cause they hum like a bitch when I do. They are quiet enough but also strong enough to get the job done.

So to answer this particular question about cfm is kind of hard. I leave them running at what speed they say they are. But it all depends on duct run length, turns, filters or whatever else may cause staic pressure in the line. Then you can use a gauge to determine what cfm is really being used. 

The best thing to do is try to calculate how much static pressure will be in your line and use the fans spec sheet to see what would be best. Remember this tho, some of these fans are a bit stronger than stated.

I hope this helped a bit.


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## BCtrippin (Jan 10, 2009)

Poon69 said:


> If I knew how to find the feckin +rep button on here I'd hit u up mate. Can't find it since they changed the fuckin graphics on here. Point me in the right direction. This is a good review seein as I'm about to purchase a grow tent, carbon filter and intake n exhaust fans and, similarly, vent straight from the top of the tent 3" into my attic. I'd like to know how it all looks mate and what temp probs u may have experienced. e.g. what sort of timescales did u leaves fans on for to achieve optimum temps. At what cfm were they running? Did u find it gettin too hot or too cold in the tent at all and how did u solve that? Keep it up pls buddy, and as I said, tell me where the bleedin +rep is nowadays! lol


The new layout is bugged. You need to switch back to the old one. When logged in scroll down to the very bottom and for the layout template select Blzin-07


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## Poon69 (Jan 11, 2009)

Nice one Hotwired. That's given me summat to think about. I hadn't thought of the fact the fan would be less effective attached to the carbon filter! doh! I think I'm gonna go with a 5" 355cfm ruck fan and filter, set it all up and then just see what happens. I'll be venting from the room rather than outside so I guess it's not gonna be easy to predict results until I set it all up. 

I'd also planned on packin the room with plants, between 6 and 9, and haven't allowed for fans. Altho I'm thinkin about the small clip on fans, perhaps 4 of them, one clipped to each vertical pole on the tent.

Cheers for the help tho. +rep (changed skins and found the button again! woop lol)


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## Hotwired (Jan 11, 2009)

Thanks for the rep Poon. Hope everything works out. Those clip-on fans are a pain in the ass to keep in one spot. I use 'em in my DR120. I had to clip them on the top bar cause it's the only place they stay without falling. I hung one in each corner and used a 4th to blow in air from the sock on the top. It sits right on top of the hole and blows air in.

One of these days I'll be able to afford a camera and take some pics. On my 4th grow now with Afghan Kush. Started with fem seeds and they are kicking ass. No herms, no problems. I don't even keep moms, I just take clones from a finished vegged clone and restart the process. Works like a charm


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## TheRuiner (Jan 12, 2009)

Hotwired said:


> Thanks for the rep Poon. Hope everything works out. Those clip-on fans are a pain in the ass to keep in one spot. I use 'em in my DR120. I had to clip them on the top bar cause it's the only place they stay without falling. I hung one in each corner and used a 4th to blow in air from the sock on the top. It sits right on top of the hole and blows air in.
> 
> One of these days I'll be able to afford a camera and take some pics. On my 4th grow now with Afghan Kush. Started with fem seeds and they are kicking ass. No herms, no problems. I don't even keep moms, I just take clones from a finished vegged clone and restart the process. Works like a charm


Thanks for putting all this together Wired, great reviews by the way. I have been shopping around and am pretty stuck on a DR120, I'd really like to see you get detailed with it, and some pictures would absolutely freakin' rule, to bad you can't post any for us all to marvel over.


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## Hotwired (Jan 12, 2009)

TheRuiner said:


> Thanks for putting all this together Wired, great reviews by the way. I have been shopping around and am pretty stuck on a DR120, I'd really like to see you get detailed with it, and some pictures would absolutely freakin' rule, to bad you can't post any for us all to marvel over.


Hey thanks for the kind words Ruiner 

You should really like the DR120. The metal poles used for the frame are only about 4' long. So they only use one pole for the crossmembers. This makes it much stronger than my DR300w which uses two 2 1/2' poles for their crossmembers. The sad part is that a 1000 watt light can still show thru the skin in some spots. The DR120 also has the same problems with the sock holes and zippers as the other tents. Light leaks like crazy. But I can live with them because they still block 98% of all light.

I really never finished my reviews for both my tents and one day I will try to do it with pics. Watch out if you use insulated duct. I think the socks for the 150, 240 and 300 are all 8". The problem with that is you can only use 6" insulated duct and it's still a tight fit thru the 8" openings.

The smaller tents like the 120 have 6" socks. I haven't tried yet but most likely the only size insulated duct that would fit thru the socks would be the 4" insulated duct. You could probably fit the proper sized elbows inside the sock but I don't think they would be too stable. Again haven't tried this but it may be an option.

The tents hold the light and heat very well. I have not yet smelled any odors from my tent but I don't grow the real heavy smelly stuff.

Maybe I'll get back on this review one day and do it with a camera


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## TheRuiner (Jan 13, 2009)

Hotwired said:


> Hey thanks for the kind words Ruiner
> 
> You should really like the DR120. The metal poles used for the frame are only about 4' long. So they only use one pole for the crossmembers. This makes it much stronger than my DR300w which uses two 2 1/2' poles for their crossmembers. The sad part is that a 1000 watt light can still show thru the skin in some spots. The DR120 also has the same problems with the sock holes and zippers as the other tents. Light leaks like crazy. But I can live with them because they still block 98% of all light.
> 
> ...


How about the material itself, how would it hold up against a couple cats scratching at it, I have a few cats that get into everything and I'm wondering how easy it would be for them to mess with it? That's a little disappointing to hear that it leaks light, it's not so bad that you ever considered sending it back right? I wouldn't be using anything bigger than a 600 watt light in it, and that would be after upgrading from a 400 watt, maybe that wouldn't be as bad. Would love to see some pics one day if you get around to it, thanks again for the details on these products, the dr120 in particular, I hope your grow goes well! 
PS ~ You said you don't have a smell issue, what strain are you growing exactly, or is it just bag seed? Seems like you wouldn't spend all that money to get up and running to not grow something that would blow your head off.


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## Hotwired (Jan 13, 2009)

lol 

I don't have any cats around to toss on my tent but if I did I'd give it a shot just for you 

hehe just kidding

I would think those pint sized tigers could claw thru anything if they wanted to. But if they start nipping and clawing anything you can always close the room off.

Growing? I don't grow anything. That Afghan Kush just pops up naturally in my tent. No idea where it comes from


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## All Day Toker (Jan 13, 2009)

Hey hot wired how many planys you fitting in that dw300??


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## TheRuiner (Jan 14, 2009)

Hotwired said:


> lol
> 
> I don't have any cats around to toss on my tent but if I did I'd give it a shot just for you
> 
> ...


LOL, of course it just pops up, that's exactly what i figured, i simply worded the question wrong my friend. That's what I was afraid of with the cats, and the only problem I see from there is that this room is the cats room. It's where I put them up, and the only place that's an option for me to "see what springs up"


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## GrowTech (Jan 14, 2009)

chopping people up... pretty fucking creepy dude.


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## Hotwired (Jan 14, 2009)

GrowTech said:


> chopping people up... pretty fucking creepy dude.


 
I guess you never saw Dexter on Showtime. The comedic value of that statement went right over your head my friend


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## TheRuiner (Jan 28, 2009)

GrowTech said:


> chopping people up... pretty fucking creepy dude.


Dude, your avatar is f**kin creepy... lol...


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## NewGrowth (Jan 28, 2009)

GrowTech said:


> chopping people up... pretty fucking creepy dude.


Yeah man your new av is pretty scary


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## TheRuiner (Jan 30, 2009)

GrowTech, that avatar is the scariest of all cause I don't know what to expect next!!! *cringing*


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## TheRuiner (Jan 30, 2009)

PS ~ Wired, check this out, (I'll put pics up later), I'm building a cage big enough to house the DR120 I will get, It's 4X4X7 and will entirely enclose a DR120, lets see my cats get through that bitch! A cage for a tent, damn, I just need to boot those cats...


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## Flagg (Feb 22, 2009)

+rep

I'm planning on buying a DR120 and your review was exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for putting in all the time and effort into this thread.


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## vegasendo (Jul 12, 2009)

I got a dr300w and I've set it up but im curious as to what temperature the air coming in fresh must be. I am going to have the a/c set to 75 as soon as we duct the hot air from the portable a/c in the tent and the air that is ducted out of the tent after being cleaned with the carbon filter and sent through the 2 air cooled hoods into a 8" hole in teh ceiling of the closet to rid that room of hot air... after that the a/c on 75 should be pretttty steady in supplying that room to be 75 degrees therefore giving a NICE steady intake of 75ish degree air into the tent. and when that portable a/c unit is running in a cooler environment i think it will do its job cooling as well. I'm just hoping for now because so far all tests have been performed with no lights on yet inside the tent as the temps were already 78-82 ish .. But that was with the cleaned air and the hot air from the portable ac unit venting into the closet right next to the tent rather than up into the actual ceiling once we cut an 8" hole and duct the air out  any input is appreciated!


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## Bublonichronic (Jul 13, 2009)

vegasendo said:


> I got a dr300w and I've set it up but im curious as to what temperature the air coming in fresh must be. I am going to have the a/c set to 75 as soon as we duct the hot air from the portable a/c in the tent and the air that is ducted out of the tent after being cleaned with the carbon filter and sent through the 2 air cooled hoods into a 8" hole in teh ceiling of the closet to rid that room of hot air... after that the a/c on 75 should be pretttty steady in supplying that room to be 75 degrees therefore giving a NICE steady intake of 75ish degree air into the tent. and when that portable a/c unit is running in a cooler environment i think it will do its job cooling as well. I'm just hoping for now because so far all tests have been performed with no lights on yet inside the tent as the temps were already 78-82 ish .. But that was with the cleaned air and the hot air from the portable ac unit venting into the closet right next to the tent rather than up into the actual ceiling once we cut an 8" hole and duct the air out  any input is appreciated!


 sounds nice....hope yours dosent have light leeks like mine....and when i had a portable a/c in my dr150 when it turned on it sucked the walls in so bad that there was damage to the seems where it had been sewd together....good luck


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## vegasendo (Jul 14, 2009)

Bublonichronic said:


> sounds nice....hope yours dosent have light leeks like mine....and when i had a portable a/c in my dr150 when it turned on it sucked the walls in so bad that there was damage to the seems where it had been sewd together....good luck


How is your portable ac sucking air? Mine blows air from a corner and then exhausts the heat it creates from the rear via ducting out the w
side which we are about to route into the ceiling to eliminate lingering hot air outside the grow tent so we can intake as much cool air into the tent.

I read a little on LTS I've been told will make it short and fat nothing really solid yet.. Anyone got a good link explaining how to do it as well as maybe pics/videos?


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## Bublonichronic (Jul 14, 2009)

vegasendo said:


> How is your portable ac sucking air? Mine blows air from a corner and then exhausts the heat it creates from the rear via ducting out the w
> side which we are about to route into the ceiling to eliminate lingering hot air outside the grow tent so we can intake as much cool air into the tent.
> 
> I read a little on LTS I've been told will make it short and fat nothing really solid yet.. Anyone got a good link explaining how to do it as well as maybe pics/videos?


 i returnd the a/c...all i really remember was it didnt work out....but LST https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/181208-mammaths-stealth-cabinet-grow-journals-10.html < give that a little glance..


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## Hotwired (Jul 14, 2009)

A lil advice for you guys about portable a/c and tents.

You do NOT need to put the a/c inside of the tent. If you have your tent inside a room, like me, then you can put the a/c right outside your tent but inside the room.

For example, my room is 12 x 10 and my 5 x 10 tent is inside this room. I use central a/c to cool that room (and, of course, the rest of the house too). I use 2 separate fans. One fan to cool the lights and one fan to pull thru a filter and pull fresh air in the tent. Both fans suck the central a/c from outside the tent and exhaust into the attic. 

The problem with this is that I'm wasting a ton of air cooling the whole house. All I really need is a portable a/c inside the same room as the tent. This way I only cool that room and not have my central a/c continuously on.

What you need to do is find a nice spot for the portable right outside the tent and vent the hot air from it outside or into the attic. This way the portable cools the room only and your fans will suck in all that cool air to keep temps low. Soon as I get a few $$$'s I'll buy a nice portable.

Keeping the a/c outside the tent but in the same room does a few good things for you.

1) You wont have to worry about odor control
2) You won't have to worry about the a/c pulling the sides of your tent inwards
3) You wont have to worry about extra space
4) You do NOT need to get a dual hose unit doing it this way. ANY portable will work

The pro's outweigh the cons by a mile. Just something to think about


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## vegasendo (Jul 17, 2009)

i got a journal started now. have the a/c outside the tent like you recommended and both the hot air from that a/c unit that ducts out the back of it hooked to a tee wye connector where the air that is cleaned thru can filter then blown threw the 2 air coole dhoods and out the tent vent into a 6-8" hole in the ceiling of the closet getting that hot air ducted out . now just trying to get that room to cool as much as possible. so the little a/c unit can keep it cool in that room  also installed an oscillating fan in the corner and will install another one soon.





Hotwired said:


> A lil advice for you guys about portable a/c and tents.
> 
> You do NOT need to put the a/c inside of the tent. If you have your tent inside a room, like me, then you can put the a/c right outside your tent but inside the room.
> 
> ...


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## Hotwired (Jul 17, 2009)

Am I understanding you right? Do you use only 1 fan to exhaust the tent AND the lights? It may work but not as efficient as separating the tent air from the air cooled hoods.

I have a TD-150 pulling thru a can filter and exhausting into the attic. This pulls fresh air in automatically from outside the tent thru 2 passive intakes. 

I have another TD-150 pulling thru 2 air cooled hoods. This air is also sucked from outside the tent and exhausted into the attic.

If I understand you right..........you have a fan pulling thru a can filter which is in the tent and then pushing it out thru your air cooled hoods and exhausting into the attic?

It's ok to do this....if you can keep the temps down. The reason I use 2 fans separately is:

The air being pulled thru the lights is much cooler because it's coming from outside the tent and not the already heated air from inside the tent. This in turn keeps the lights cooler and temps lower in the tent. 
You, on the other hand, are pulling air from outside the tent, thru the filter and then thru the lights. The air will already be much hotter while going thru the lights and will not cool your tent off as much as you would like.

Try using 2 smaller inline fans like me and keeping the tent air separate from the air cooled hoods. Just something to think about


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## tea tree (Jul 17, 2009)

man, i just tried changing my tent around and using it with the light on one circuit and adding some spare inline fans as outakes. 

An hour of sweat and I got one degree cooler. That is with the same air and same room exhaust setup ( the whole room being pulled clean out a sliding door). I am stuck at 80 with my house air at 70. 

So I guess what I can tell is that if you are going to change everything aorund make sure you get a cooler intake for the light than you had before and some extra way to ehaust1

Really I guess was that it is not a huge diference unless you make some major mods to a system that uses an eight inch fan to pull through an eight inch cool tibe with a 600 watt. My fan is big.


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## Bublonichronic (Jul 18, 2009)

a good cheap fan is..... http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1747223 actually got more expencive since i bought mine...lol also i been leaveing my tent unzipd at the top and my temps chill at like 78-79


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## iloveit (Jul 29, 2009)

Bublonichronic said:


> a good cheap fan is..... http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1747223 actually got more expencive since i bought mine...lol also i been leaveing my tent unzipd at the top and my temps chill at like 78-79


How loud is it at high setting?


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## Bublonichronic (Jul 29, 2009)

iloveit said:


> How loud is it at high setting?


 kind of loud....but not like weird "wtf is that" kind of loud, lol


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