# A perfect cure every time



## SimonD (Mar 22, 2012)

This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved. 

It's a very simple and effective process: 

Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.

Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. The Hydroset/Xikar hygrometers are also recommend after calibration. Then, watch the readings: 

+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.

65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.

60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.

55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.

Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:

Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.


HTH,
Simon


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## rocpilefsj (Mar 24, 2012)

Thanks SimonD. Great how to! +REP


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## SimonD (Oct 4, 2012)

The thread is open for discussion. Please feel free to post your questions, hints and personal experiences.

Best,
Simon


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## birdmananyweather (Oct 4, 2012)

been using this method right when i seen it come out...its a beautiful thing! mad props!


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## Earliss (Oct 4, 2012)

Works well im lovein it..


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## obijohn (Oct 4, 2012)

Ive done this for several years this way. I air out the jars so they aren't moist long term, and it smooths out the smoke. But after several months the buds all turn brown. And, I don't have that sweet skunky smell, usually little smell at all. The potency is good, but why can't I keep the nice aroma and greenish color?


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## fatboyOGOF (Oct 6, 2012)

SimonD said:


> The thread is open for discussion. Please feel free to post your questions, hints and personal experiences.
> 
> Best,
> Simon


i appreciate your thread on this simon. i started doing this method a couple of years ago. the hygrometers help a lot. much better than the old squeeze test. 

i got in the bad habit of drying them too quick, taking about 3 days. i trimed the colas into bite sized buds and with phoenix being hot and dry, it doesn't take long. then i noticed that although the buds smelled great when crushed, the odor when i cracked the ball jars was minimal. 

i'm going back to a nice slow dry this time. i'm just triming the fan leaves and hanging the plant whole. i'm at 53 days in flower now and want to be sure that when i crack open a jar, i get a smile from the smell.


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## mr. green thumb 01 (Oct 6, 2012)

Experience- It didnt work for me and I feel that is to wet to go into jars I tried a few times not just once. Same problem as obijohn.. Terrible dark discoloration, loss of smell, and little bag appeal. I kinda think the rh in my house is to high for this and they NEVER dry. When I open my jars and 65-70% rh goes in there, they just get wetter. I like to get them nice and dry hanging the whole plant, trim, and then cure. The texture (moisture content) and smell go right where I want it during the cure. It also seems to take less time. Anyone having a large harvest would need a rack of rh meters and I just dont see that being practical. BTW thanks guys for opening this thread hopefully simond can now help some people understand this process better. For me and my drying this is where the cure starts and I quote from Simon *"60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.*" Leave them dry until the stem cracks when you bend it. I think the post is a little confusing as it first says start curing before the stem snaps and it is still pliable but then its followed up by curing starts when product is at 60-65% and STEM SNAPS. 

Hopefully I didnt offend anyone from this post. Just trying to learn. Also I hope mature people can overlook previous debates and give good solid information with out the ridiculing.


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## Rumple (Oct 6, 2012)

mr. green thumb 01 said:


> Hopefully I didnt offend anyone from this post. Just trying to learn. Also I hope mature people can overlook previous debates and give good solid information with out the ridiculing.


Lol, good luck.


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## Trousers (Oct 6, 2012)

I have a few of those round hygrometers that you can calibrate. There is an easy and cheap way to calibrate them.

Take a small cup/bowl that will fit in a zip lock baggie with your hygrometer. In the cup mix some water and salt until it is a slurry. 
Seal the cup and the hygrometer in the bag. Salt water evaporates and will raise the humidity to 75%. Let it sit overnight then dial in the hygrometer to read 75%.

Easy.

Thanks again Simon. I've been doing the perfect cure for a couple years now and it works like a charm.


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## Malacath (Oct 11, 2012)

wait till the pot hanging starts to almost dry fully (between 5 and 7 days)and stems almost snap. place nuggs in grocery bags about 3/4 full for like 2 days and leave open some where dark and kool with air flow. fluff consistently. place in air/light tight jars or tobacco jars with lid unclosed but on top of jar for another day or so then stuff into jars dont be afraid to pack down nuggs not too mutch tho then open up the jars every other day for like a week then start the long seal for a couple weeks in total darkness... some strains can even be cured for like a month.


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## SimonD (Oct 11, 2012)

obijohn said:


> Ive done this for several years this way. I air out the jars so they aren't moist long term, and it smooths out the smoke. But after several months the buds all turn brown. And, I don't have that sweet skunky smell, usually little smell at all. The potency is good, but *why can't I keep the nice aroma and greenish color?*


Both are strain-dependent properties. As the product cures, chlorophyll and its byproducts diminish and the true colors come out. Some bud is red, some is brown, some is gold-like, and some is brown. Off the top of my head, Nirvana's Shiva stays green as does Next Gen's Grapefruit. Same goes for the smell, though to be perfectly honest I've yet to cure anything that didn't have an easily identifiable scent.



obijohn said:


> Helping a friend with their grow, and pulled one plant Friday. Like I've done in the past, we just cut off branches, trimmed down to the bud, and hung in a dark closet, keeping the door closed with no fan. It wasn't very hot here last four days, highs in the mid to upper seventies.
> 
> *But as in years past, we figured we had better jar today, and it may be too late. Even though the stems are flexible, the buds are likely way too dry to cure. At this rate we might have to hang for two days max and then jar.* But practically speaking, how can we slow down the initial drying process? Would just removing the fan leaves and leaving the sugar leaves slow the process? I kind of hate to do that because it makes trimming twice as hard once the leaves fold over the bud.
> 
> Any tips?


[I pulled the post above from another current thread]

If the stems you refer to are in the flowers, themselves, they're definitely not too dry. Likely the flowers are too wet, and they'll rehydrate relatively quickly in a sealed container and will need to be brought down again before a cure can begin.


Simon


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## SimonD (Oct 11, 2012)

mr. green thumb 01 said:


> Experience- It didnt work for me and I feel that is to wet to go into jars I tried a few times not just once. Same problem as obijohn.. Terrible dark discoloration, loss of smell, and little bag appeal. *I kinda think the rh in my house is to high for this and they NEVER dry. When I open my jars and 65-70% rh goes in there, they just get wetter. I like to get them nice and dry hanging the whole plant, trim, and then cure.*


You don't seem to realize that these factors are not independent. If the plant dries whole well enough to cure, but the bud doesn't cure due to the RH in the room - as you claim above - then such action would be physically impossible. Can't happen. There's oblivious something amiss in this equation.

Please understand there's only one way to air-cure and it's relative to the moisture content in the flowers. You can get there any way you like. Want to dry the plant whole? Fine. Don't want to? OK. It's not like it really matters.



> The texture (moisture content) and smell go right where I want it during the cure. It also seems to take less time. Anyone having a large harvest would need a rack of rh meters and I just dont see that being practical.


Because, there's no such thing as a bigger container?



> BTW thanks guys for opening this thread *hopefully simond can now help some people understand this process better.* For me and my drying this is where the cure starts and I quote from Simon *"60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.*" Leave them dry until the stem cracks when you bend it. I think the post is a little confusing as it first says start curing before the stem snaps and it is still pliable but then its followed up by curing starts when product is at 60-65% and STEM SNAPS.
> 
> Hopefully I didnt offend anyone from this post. Just trying to learn. Also I hope mature people can overlook previous debates and give good solid information with out the ridiculing.


Follow the directions. It's pretty self-explanatory. I'd suggest reading the thread on IC, if more involved instruction is required. Lots of folks willing to help. No offense, I just don't have the time or the inclination to deal with this.

Simon


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## SimonD (Oct 11, 2012)

Rumple said:


> Lol, good luck.


Heh, it's as if folks would rater argue than grow lots of bud. When I started out, I identified a number of growers I wanted to learn from, shut my mouth and listened for a hell of a long time, while putting in the hours in my own garden. Here, the less experience you have, the louder you are. No thanks.

Simon


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## grower215 (Oct 11, 2012)

i read somewhere awhile back that you cant get your RH% below what it is for an empty jar... which for me is 64-66%.. is this true? if so how can i cure properly...


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## YoungBezzle (Oct 12, 2012)

Simon Wattz Up Bruh I Was Wondering If You Are Anybody In This Thread Has Ever Heard Of Or Used The Boveda 62% Humidipaks? I've Recently Purchased Some Along With Some Cvault Containers And Have Yet To Use Them But I Pretty Sure They Are Gonna Do The Trick! They Were Featured in HighTimes And Every Review I've Read From Growers Who Use Them Were Positive. All You Gotta Do Is Dry Your Buds Until Your Stems Almost Snap, Drop Your Buds In The Jar Along With Your Boveda Humidipak And BOOM! You're Done! No Burping, No Opening Your Jars! The trick is to leave the proper moisture content in the bud, in relation to it&#8217;s particular density. Relative humidity, and air temperature when jarring will play a role as well. Leaving just enough water and air to allow the "Beneficial" bacteria to feed on the chlorophyll And Starch, but not enough to proliferate throughout the jar. When they run out of air, they die. So opening the jar is counterproductive to curing. The Humidipaks Will Lower Or Raise The Rh To 62%. I Think These Paks Are A Must Have For Beginners And A Nice Addition To The Experienced Growers Arsenal Of "Pot Growing Gadgets"! kiss-ass


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## dc4 (Oct 12, 2012)

SimonD said:


> Some bud is red, *some is brown*, some is gold-like, *and some is brown*.
> 
> Simon


Nice one!


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## grower215 (Oct 12, 2012)

YoungBezzle said:


> Simon Wattz Up Bruh I Was Wondering If You Are Anybody In This Thread Has Ever Heard Of Or Used The Boveda 62% Humidipaks? I've Recently Purchased Some Along With Some Cvault Containers And Have Yet To Use Them But I Pretty Sure They Are Gonna Do The Trick! They Were Featured in HighTimes And Every Review I've Read From Growers Who Use Them Were Positive. All You Gotta Do Is Dry Your Buds Until Your Stems Almost Snap, Drop Your Buds In The Jar Along With Your Boveda Humidipak And BOOM! You're Done! No Burping, No Opening Your Jars! The trick is to leave the proper moisture content in the bud, in relation to it&#8217;s particular density. Relative humidity, and air temperature when jarring will play a role as well. Leaving just enough water and air to allow the "Beneficial" bacteria to feed on the chlorophyll And Starch, but not enough to proliferate throughout the jar. When they run out of air, they die. So opening the jar is counterproductive to curing. The Humidipaks Will Lower Or Raise The Rh To 62%. I Think These Paks Are A Must Have For Beginners And A Nice Addition To The Experienced Growers Arsenal Of "Pot Growing Gadgets"! kiss-ass


Where can you those pacs at??


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## obijohn (Oct 12, 2012)

SimonD said:


> If the stems you refer to are in the flowers, themselves, they're definitely not too dry. Likely the flowers are too wet, and they'll rehydrate relatively quickly in a sealed container and will need to be brought down again before a cure can begin.
> 
> 
> Simon


 the flowers are pretty much crispy. After jarring, they do get springy....but not wet...within 24 hours. But my understanding of the curing process is that once the bud dries out, it's dead. It can be rehydrated, but if the the plant tissue is dead it won't cure


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## BRSmoker (Oct 12, 2012)

More info on the boveda: http://bovedainc.com/solutions/herbal/

Also, by this logic, a cigar humidor should be ideal for curing and keeping marijuana for long periods of time, right?


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## Trousers (Oct 13, 2012)

I would not put my weed in a cedar humidor, then you will have cedar smelling/tasting weed. 

Why would you want to do this?
If you get it under 60% put it in an airtight jar and it will stay at that humidity.


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## grower215 (Oct 14, 2012)

Whats the himidipak to bud ratio in a 32oz Mason jar? How many paks to grams are needed?


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## SimonD (Oct 14, 2012)

grower215 said:


> Whats the himidipak to bud ratio in a 32oz Mason jar? How many paks to grams are needed?


I don't suggest using a humidipak over the course of the cure. There's simply no need, as it's the moisture contained within the product that drives the process. A humidipak does work well for keeping a cured stash at the right humidity. Good luck.

[As a side note, at worst, a humidipak can fool the grower into thinking that his product is curing by maintaining the right environment inside the container with the product being too dry to cure.]

Simon


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## mr. green thumb 01 (Oct 15, 2012)

SimonD said:


> You don't seem to realize that these factors are not independent. If the plant dries whole well enough to cure, but the bud doesn't cure due to the RH in the room - as you claim above - then such action would be physically impossible. Can't happen. There's oblivious something amiss in this equation.
> 
> Please understand there's only one way to air-cure and it's relative to the moisture content in the flowers. You can get there any way you like. Want to dry the plant whole? Fine. Don't want to? OK. It's not like it really matters.
> 
> ...


Because I have a controlled drying room and I dont CURE in my drying room. I cure in my house. The drying room needs to be used for the next plants in 1-2 weeks and can not be used to cure. But when you run such small ops you dont have this problem.  Honestly, I wasn't looking for help on drying as I figured it out myself with out the help of you; obviously. I just wanted to see what your science answer would be... You say once they feel to dry you can just jar them and the moisture redistributes so how does that differ than putting a dry but in a humid room to get it wetter. Is the moisture in the stem the "special cure moisture" I think so... Its all the same moisture-water!! And your statement about curing with bending stems is completely WRONG. Dont you think there is a reason EVERY cannabis book you read says dry the buds until the stem snaps and THEN cure. But I guess all those writers and growers were wrong and the almighty one and only SimonD can clear it up for us after all these years of drying/curing cannabis improperly.


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## canbeaver (Oct 16, 2012)

I unfortunately left my cut stems in a paper bag and because I had some unexpected things to do, left it in a closed cooler in a warm room for a week. When I opened the cooler I noticed a white mould on the stems. Is there anything I can do to salvage these stems and buds or can I dry and still smoke them? Or, can i ghop them up to try make a kief?


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## SimonD (Oct 16, 2012)

canbeaver said:


> I unfortunately left my cut stems in a paper bag and because I had some unexpected things to do, left it in a closed cooler in a warm room for a week. When I opened the cooler I noticed a white mould on the stems. Is there anything I can do to salvage these stems and buds or can I dry and still smoke them? Or, can i ghop them up to try make a kief?


Don't smoke the bud. I'd suggest making oil or hash with it. Good luck.

Simon


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## Trousers (Oct 18, 2012)

mr. green thumb 01 said:


> Because I have a controlled drying room and I dont CURE in my drying room. I cure in my house. The drying room needs to be used for the next plants in 1-2 weeks and can not be used to cure. But when you run such small ops you dont have this problem.  Honestly, I wasn't looking for help on drying as I figured it out myself with out the help of you; obviously. I just wanted to see what your science answer would be... You say once they feel to dry you can just jar them and the moisture redistributes so how does that differ than putting a dry but in a humid room to get it wetter. Is the moisture in the stem the "special cure moisture" I think so... Its all the same moisture-water!! And your statement about curing with bending stems is completely WRONG. Dont you think there is a reason EVERY cannabis book you read says dry the buds until the stem snaps and THEN cure. But I guess all those writers and growers were wrong and the almighty one and only SimonD can clear it up for us after all these years of drying/curing cannabis improperly.




I put the buds in the jar when they are crispy and the stems don't snap but they break a bit. 
I don't give a toss what EVERY cannabis book says.

If you wait until the stems snap, you might have waited too long and you won't get into the zone. 
If you you put them in too soon you get hay. 

It is not rocket science. I used to do this without hygrometers and it worked.


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## cadillacetcch (Oct 18, 2012)

first time growing and i dont know when to harvest besides the tri need to know the best way to cut down and cure my weed so i dont end up with some garbage please help


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## marc88101 (Oct 18, 2012)

Yo,, Simon. I follow your cure to the tee, down to the hygrometers. Its amazing! Clean, tasty, smooooooth smoke, thanks!!!!


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## Trousers (Oct 20, 2012)

I smoked a bowl of Double Blueberry last night.
I lit it once. 

Well grown and perfectly cured weed is the best.


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## Laney (Oct 21, 2012)

I'm following the perfect cure using 5 gal buckets with gamma lids and half gal mason jars, spotchecking with 4 hygrometers. It's working great so far - smelling mighty nice


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## msackal (Oct 22, 2012)

I live in AZ. the temp in my house with the fans is around 78Deg. I pulled one small plant and let hang dry for 22 hours, when I checked it, it was all brittle and just crushed up, good smell, not sticky and a harsh so-so taste. nice body high though. two taps and your horizontale. why does it dry so fast?


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## Laney (Oct 22, 2012)

My plants were drying too fast when the temps were higher. It's best if the temps stay below 70 (not always possible). The humidity is high so I have to keep unpacking them the last couple of says. Trying to bring them in safe and slow...


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## ASMALLVOICE (Oct 25, 2012)

Thanx for the post, I am looking forward to my first cure using this method. I can remember back about 30+ years ago, we used to dry it in the oven and cure it under lighter fire...lol, whew, I could not deal with a homegrown headache nowadays, might just kill me. Thanx again for the post.

Peace and Big Buds for All!

Asmallvoice


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## budbro18 (Oct 26, 2012)

I have seen this method before and its worked for everyone whos tried it.

But ive figured out a way to speed the cure process up in a way...

Not really speed it up but start it earlier.

So here it is. I start by giving my plants there last watering of SSU then cut the lights for 3 days prior to the harvest.

I have a 6" carbon filter and inline fan with 400+ cfm that runs constantly while in veg/flower as well as those 3 days of dark.

After the 3 days i chop everything, trim everything but keep most buds on there branch so i can hang them in my tent.

at this point i put my carbon filter and all my fans on a timer to go on for 1 hour every 5 hours so 4 times a day for 1 hour.

This basically dries them at a rate like curing where it allows moisture to be released from the stem/middle to the dry outside of the bud over the 5 hours off.

After 3 days of this all the buds are dry enough to come down and are cured in a large tuparware/bucket for you guessed it... 3 days.

and after this three days the bud is perfect to break down perfect smell smooth smoke with no harshness except from potency.

Let me know if anyone has tried this before!


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## GrowinTheDank (Oct 27, 2012)

budbro18 said:


> I have seen this method before and its worked for everyone whos tried it.
> 
> But ive figured out a way to speed the cure process up in a way...
> 
> ...


That pretty much sucks the perfection right out man.


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## budbro18 (Oct 27, 2012)

GrowinTheDank said:


> That pretty much sucks the perfection right out man.


haha do you mean it takes the difficulty out of drying and curing? or sucks something out the bud?

either way glad for a response! hahaha


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## Laney (Oct 27, 2012)

I'm an outdoor grower so that's not a type of dry I can entertain. I will mention that I did use the last days light dep of 2 plants to try it (I could only get two out of the ground intact because I had submerged their containers at planting). One I gave 1 day dark and the other nearly 3. I didn't notice any difference (yet). I have everything in separate containers so I can assess and review my notes. In the future, I will use it mainly as a convenience to help stagger the harvesting/trimming stage. Harvesting at just the right time is the most important step and key for me this grow was managing the processing. Throwing my weakest plants in the freezer was a lifesaver, lol


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## GrowinTheDank (Oct 27, 2012)

budbro18 said:


> haha do you mean it takes the difficulty out of drying and curing? or sucks something out the bud?
> 
> either way glad for a response! hahaha


I mean like it's not a perfectly calculated out method of drying/curing. Your just timing things by the day as opposed to monitoring the exact humidity level etc. So your method probably works but it can't really be deemed 'perfect', feel me?


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## THC&STDs4All (Oct 27, 2012)

cadillacetcch said:


> first time growing and i dont know when to harvest besides the tri need to know the best way to cut down and cure my weed so i dont end up with some garbage please help


theres a search button just takes a little time and patience.... but not much rlly


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## budbro18 (Oct 27, 2012)

Laney said:


> I'm an outdoor grower so that's not a type of dry I can entertain. I will mention that I did use the last days light dep of 2 plants to try it (I could only get two out of the ground intact because I had submerged their containers at planting). One I gave 1 day dark and the other nearly 3. I didn't notice any difference (yet). I have everything in separate containers so I can assess and review my notes. In the future, I will use it mainly as a convenience to help stagger the harvesting/trimming stage. Harvesting at just the right time is the most important step and key for me this grow was managing the processing. Throwing my weakest plants in the freezer was a lifesaver, lol



I understand but do you dry/cure outdoors? the same concept would be applied to a closet,cardboard box, plastic tote, etc... 

Hell even a garage if you had enough air moving.

Now with the darkness for X amount of days, im not in any particular rush so cutting them for those 3 days isnt a big deal and i havent had any thc tests done or been able to remember a time when i didnt do that so i just stick with it. the theory behind that is decently sound so i fux with it.

I really find it more helps mature the pistols and starts breaking down the chlorophyll slightly, kinda kick starting the drying/curing process.

But thanks again for the input!


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## budbro18 (Oct 27, 2012)

GrowinTheDank said:


> I mean like it's not a perfectly calculated out method of drying/curing. Your just timing things by the day as opposed to monitoring the exact humidity level etc. So your method probably works but it can't really be deemed 'perfect', feel me?


Agreed, i tend to use the word perfect a little loosely. but for me its honestly perfect. i have it dialed in for my conditons.

i also pay attention to the humidity by leaving my therm/hygro in the tent as well as my room therm/hygro.

so i monitor the % difference between both inside and outside the tent at both before and after the fans have cycled.

check out a little more detailed explanation of it in the thread i just posted.

https://www.rollitup.org/harvesting-curing/576175-easiest-way-dry-cure.html


looking back i use the word perfectly and easiest a little loosely but for anyone who already has the tent/ventilation hooked up i feel can benefit 

Thanks again for responding and happy harvest to all!!!


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## Trousers (Oct 29, 2012)

Jar 1 of 6 just spent the night at 58%. Ready to smoke!
The rest are at about 62%-65%. 

Another perfect cure. 

I have been using cheapo hygrometers from china that cost $5 on ebay. They have been within 1-2% of my nice hygrometers.


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## herbalife (Nov 1, 2012)

LOL, didn't realize you made the original post as well, SimonD 

This is great information but please cite the original source @ ICMag:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=156237


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## SimonD (Nov 2, 2012)

herbalife said:


> LOL, didn't realize you made the original post as well, SimonD
> 
> This is great information but please cite the original source @ ICMag:
> https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=156237


I appreciate the post. Where as some forums simply plagiarized the tutorial without crediting anyone for the work, RIU did not follow that path. 

Simon


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## NavySEALsVet (Nov 5, 2012)

G I came here expecting to see some bud porn guess ill keep searching.


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## Trousers (Nov 5, 2012)

Google "marijuana buds" and you can look at about a million pictures.


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## hornedfrog2000 (Nov 7, 2012)

mr. green thumb 01 said:


> Because I have a controlled drying room and I dont CURE in my drying room. I cure in my house. The drying room needs to be used for the next plants in 1-2 weeks and can not be used to cure. But when you run such small ops you dont have this problem.  Honestly, I wasn't looking for help on drying as I figured it out myself with out the help of you; obviously. I just wanted to see what your science answer would be... You say once they feel to dry you can just jar them and the moisture redistributes so how does that differ than putting a dry but in a ihumid room to get it wetter. Is the moisture in the stem the "special cure moisture" I think so... Its all the same moisture-water!! And your statement about curing with bending stems is completely WRONG. Dont you think there is a reason EVERY cannabis book you read says dry the buds until the stem snaps and THEN cure. But I guess all those writers and growers were wrong and the almighty one and only SimonD can clear it up for us after all these years of drying/curing cannabis improperly.


Terrible post. Im about to put on a seminar in this forum. The misture in the stem is different, because it indicates the bud is still alive. Maybe not alive but the enzymes are still alive and can help decompose the bud, or cire it. Unless you are god you cant just rehydrate it to bring them back to life. It would be like me pouring water down my dead dogs throat after he has been dead of thirst for a day. Its a little late. But i assume myself and the people who have been curing tobacco for thousands of years are wrong.

100% correct about the most ignorant people being the most vocal simon. I try not to debate idiots too much but im not going to let good contributing members be turned off by the .5% of these forums.

Im going to write up a nice thread on the biological prpcesses going on while curing tonight.


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## Trousers (Nov 8, 2012)

mr green thumb has a hard time differentiating between facts and claims on anonymous blogs
and he was pretty rude about it too

I look forward to reading your stuff.


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## ASMALLVOICE (Nov 11, 2012)

Tis funny how quick people place the mouth into motion before the brain is in gear.

These people are so narrow-minded, they can look through a keyhole with both eyes 

Many Thanx mr. green thumb 01 for the drying and curing threads. 

Looking forward to the day I can post my results. 

Peace

Asmallvoice


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## SimonD (Nov 11, 2012)

mr. green thumb 01 said:


> Dude, whatever. I don*'*t have time to argue.


As you have nothing to add to this thread, it's time for you to go.




Simon


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## mr. green thumb 01 (Nov 11, 2012)

Yeah, your right Simon. Sorry.


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## mobitsfa (Nov 15, 2012)

what do you do when it's curing at 65-60% RH? I'm at 64% should I be burping daily or is it ok to store for a while? I'm guessing burp every week until it's at 60-55% then it can be stored for months right?

It's perfectly smokable and stays lit, burns grey/white at 64%


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## SimonD (Nov 18, 2012)

mobitsfa said:


> what do you do when it's curing at 65-60% RH? I'm at 64% should I be burping daily or is it ok to store for a while? I'm guessing burp every week until it's at 60-55% then it can be stored for months right?


If the product is stabilized at 64%, there's no real need to keep burping the jar. The key word here is _stabilized_. Some folks like to introduce an air exchange into the process every week or two. Long term storage - meaning, more than a few months - 55-60% is good.



> It's perfectly smokable and stays lit, burns grey/white at 64%


Glad everything is working out. Good luck.

Simon


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## firsttimeARE (Nov 21, 2012)

Hi simon, Thanks for this thread!I let my plants dry for 4 days and figured they were done drying because they felt real crispy and a previous bigger budded plant dried in 5 days with sugar and fan leaves still attached and was a good RH when I clipped it a week ago.Anyways, I put them in a jar with a meter, but it wasn't until 36 hours later that I got to check them. Upon opening I got a grassy smell and the RH was 76%. Not good. I checked for any mold sightings, but couldn't find anything. Should I just chuck it? The plant was the runt of the batch.


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## herbalife (Nov 21, 2012)

firsttimeARE said:


> . . . Upon opening I got a grassy smell and the RH was 76%. Not good. I checked for any mold sightings, but couldn't find anything. Should I just chuck it? The plant was the runt of the batch.


 Just take it out of the jar for a few hours and let it dry out a bit more before jarring it back up. As long as it doesn't have mold or weird smells (grassy is fine, just means it's wet) it should be fine.


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## Wisedog87 (Nov 23, 2012)

I actually found a way to keep bud moist enough but not too moist. You add a small piece of celery wrapped in a thin paper towel. I found out from a guy who has been growing for a LONG time. It efficiently regulates a low moisture environment, been doing it ever since. These babies have been waiting about 6 months now, smoothest smoke around! 
Cheers


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## TriPurple (Nov 23, 2012)

I like it crispy dry.


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## SimonD (Nov 24, 2012)

TriPurple said:


> I like it crispy dry.


Then you can forget about the cure, which is the opposite intent of this thread. 

Simon


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## MyMaineMan (Nov 25, 2012)

Here's an interesting solution adopted from my other passion- home cured artisanal meats. http://mattikaarts.com/blog/charcuterie/meat-curing-at-home-the-setup/ A temperature and humidity controlled curing chamber made from an old refrigerator. We automate our light cycles using timers, why not automate our curing using precise, calibrated humidity adjustment. Thoughts? I am by no means an expert on drying and curing, but thought that this would be an interesting solution.


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## no clue (Nov 25, 2012)

My house is dry in winter and the humidity in my jars seems to fluctuate according to the ambient humidity in the house. Humidity varies from 58 to 64 depending on the day. Is this a concern?


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## no clue (Nov 25, 2012)

To be clear..I meant the humidity in the jars varies from 58 to 64. The house humidity is much lower 30 to 40 percent because i heat with wood.


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## ballaboyee21 (Nov 27, 2012)

So if my jar's humidity is at a constant 67% humidity would there be a strong chance of mold? I'm just trying to figure out how precise this is... the air's humidity here is 64 or 65% if that helps. thanks.


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## SimonD (Nov 27, 2012)

ballaboyee21 said:


> So if my jar's humidity is at a constant 67% humidity would there be a strong chance of mold?


No.



> I'm just trying to figure out how precise this is... the air's humidity here is 64 or 65% if that helps. thanks.


If you've let the humidity inside the container stabilize, as instructed in the tutorial, it's as precise as the hydrometer you're using. 

Simon


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## SimonD (Nov 27, 2012)

no clue said:


> To be clear..I meant the humidity in the jars varies from 58 to 64. The house humidity is much lower 30 to 40 percent because i heat with wood.


It sounds like the moisture inside the bud isn't fully distributed, yet. Give it a little more time. Good luck.

Simon


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## SimonD (Nov 27, 2012)

MyMaineMan said:


> Here's an interesting solution adopted from my other passion- home cured artisanal meats. http://mattikaarts.com/blog/charcuterie/meat-curing-at-home-the-setup/ A temperature and humidity controlled curing chamber made from an old refrigerator. We automate our light cycles using timers, why not automate our curing using precise, calibrated humidity adjustment. Thoughts? I am by no means an expert on drying and curing, but thought that this would be an interesting solution.


One of the growers on IC setup a controlled-humidity chamber for curing. He reported excellent results. Having never done it myself, on a purely intuitive level, there's no reason why such a setup can't work well.

Simon


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## Trousers (Nov 27, 2012)

SimonD said:


> One of the growers on IC setup a controlled-humidity chamber for curing. He reported excellent results. Having never done it myself, on a purely intuitive level, there's no reason why such a setup can't work well.
> 
> Simon



I've put a lot of thought into that as I unscrew jar after jar. 
If I were motivated I would start a business around that idea. 
I just want someone else to do it and I'll write a check.


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## budzrus (Nov 27, 2012)

Since I am just starting out I will give this a try. Thanks for the info it really helps out alot.


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## drew425 (Dec 5, 2012)

Im just starting out too. I will give it a try. How long do you usually hang dry the buds before jarring them? Mine are hanging in a cool dark shed but still feel a little damp to the touch but its been raining here a lot lately.


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## madmonk (Dec 6, 2012)

I used this method for my white widow-they have been jarred for about 2 months and the smoke is smooth-smoooooothhhh-and really a good high.Thanks much for the info.


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## no clue (Dec 6, 2012)

drew425 said:


> Im just starting out too. I will give it a try. How long do you usually hang dry the buds before jarring them? Mine are hanging in a cool dark shed but still feel a little damp to the touch but its been raining here a lot lately.


Most hang 5 to 7 days


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## kamie (Dec 7, 2012)

65% humidity is the sweet spot for me. the stem is still bendy at that time. once stable at 65% i jar it up and leave it somewhere in the dark. i come back 2 weeks later. the stem cracks, its sticky and it smells good. its really simple like how simon explains it.


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## Canibus7 (Dec 8, 2012)

Can you cure bud thats been cured before? Like if I bought a decent batch of bud from a random dealer...can I cure it to make it better?


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## Jennylasting (Dec 13, 2012)

ive got a bag before of not well dried weed, forgotten it and found it two weeks later, it tasted a lotbetter than before, so it worked that time


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## Hiker (Dec 13, 2012)

Canibus7 said:


> Can you cure bud thats been cured before? Like if I bought a decent batch of bud from a random dealer...can I cure it to make it better?


I don't think so. I'm not going to suggest that there is something special or magical about the water that was already in the buds, but it is different. Here is how I think of the curing process...

The plant is in some sort of emergency survival mode. It's trying a last ditch effort to reproduce, so it starts to cannibalize itself to maintain it's chemical and biological process. One of the things it does is begin breaking down all the chlorophyll. I've always imagined this was due to the imbalance between root and leaf material. The plant "knows" it has a surplus of photosynthetic capacity, so it starts cannibalizing the leaves to get resources to build more roots. This is a good thing as the chlorophyll in the leaves has a big effect on the taste of the smoke.

This is why adding water won't restart the curing process. All these biological processes are "alive". There are cells and enzymes, and who knows what else, all at work here. These living things need water to stay alive. Once the bud is dry, they are dead. Adding water back in will not revive them. It's these living processes that actually cure the bud.

Hopefully this makes sense. That's sort of how I think about it anyway. Maybe someone will find this useful, or maybe I'm just rambling.


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## Canibus7 (Dec 16, 2012)

Hiker said:


> I don't think so. I'm not going to suggest that there is something special or magical about the water that was already in the buds, but it is different. Here is how I think of the curing process...
> 
> The plant is in some sort of emergency survival mode. It's trying a last ditch effort to reproduce, so it starts to cannibalize itself to maintain it's chemical and biological process. One of the things it does is begin breaking down all the chlorophyll. I've always imagined this was due to the imbalance between root and leaf material. The plant "knows" it has a surplus of photosynthetic capacity, so it starts cannibalizing the leaves to get resources to build more roots. This is a good thing as the chlorophyll in the leaves has a big effect on the taste of the smoke.
> 
> ...


Makes sense but if what you say is true than that would mean bud is able to cure untill it has lost all moisture it had from when it was first cut down....so basically if u kept it fresh then u can always cure it, atleast untill its completely dry? to me that makes sense because I did a little experiement myself, grabbed a pound of kush and then I put like an ounce in the cupboard "curing" for a couple weeks and everyone was saying how it smelled better and tasted nicer too.


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## Jennylasting (Dec 17, 2012)

Hiker said:


> I don't think so. I'm not going to suggest that there is something special or magical about the water that was already in the buds, but it is different. Here is how I think of the curing process...
> 
> The plant is in some sort of emergency survival mode. It's trying a last ditch effort to reproduce, so it starts to cannibalize itself to maintain it's chemical and biological process. One of the things it does is begin breaking down all the chlorophyll. I've always imagined this was due to the imbalance between root and leaf material. The plant "knows" it has a surplus of photosynthetic capacity, so it starts cannibalizing the leaves to get resources to build more roots. This is a good thing as the chlorophyll in the leaves has a big effect on the taste of the smoke.
> 
> ...


yeahh you cant cure weed that's already been dried, but you can cure weed that has been sold to you improperly dried for sure, sometime's i wonder if they guy just picked it off the plant before i got it!


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## Hiker (Dec 18, 2012)

Canibus7 said:


> Makes sense but if what you say is true than that would mean bud is able to cure untill it has lost all moisture it had from when it was first cut down....so basically if u kept it fresh then u can always cure it, atleast untill its completely dry? to me that makes sense because I did a little experiement myself, grabbed a pound of kush and then I put like an ounce in the cupboard "curing" for a couple weeks and everyone was saying how it smelled better and tasted nicer too.


I don't think the processes would continue until all moisture is gone. As areas become completely dry, all that 'living' activity will stop in that area. As the moist, and still biologically active, area retreats towards the core of the plant, the amount of active 'curing' will go down.

The 'curing' is doing something to the plant material. Cells, or parts of cells, are being destroyed or changed or whatever is happening. Eventually, all of these will get used up or 'cured', so I think you can't 'cure' forever.

In theory, the longer the cure the better, but you're trying to find the balance between the slowest/evenest dry and too much moisture that would allow something new to start growing.

That's about all I can probably say about the subject. I'm just getting back into growing after taking a couple decades off.  I did grow for a living, so I cured my share of buds. I didn't have any hygrometers back then. I just hung the plants until they 'felt' right, and then put them into jars. I would take them out of the jars a couple times in the first week or so to asses how well they are drying, then I would just burp the jars about once a week. Of course I lived in dry southern California back then, so that helps dry it I think. If your drying area is real humid, it might not be so simple. We will see how I do here in WA in a couple months.


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## Jennylasting (Dec 19, 2012)

Hello, dunno if Simon is still reading this, but the kief collecting you recommend at the start, is that just giving your buds a quick roll over some mesh to let the trichomes fall through, im also wondering how these trichomes get "lost in the jar"? as im about to get on it and i'll happily do something to help get a little more out of my crop

cheers, peace


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## Hiker (Dec 19, 2012)

Jennylasting said:


> Hello, dunno if Simon is still reading this, but the kief collecting you recommend at the start, is that just giving your buds a quick roll over some mesh to let the trichomes fall through, im also wondering how these trichomes get "lost in the jar"? as im about to get on it and i'll happily do something to help get a little more out of my crop
> 
> cheers, peace


I think you got it right Jenny, but I won't presume to speak on Simon's behalf. This is what I think he means...

"Lost in the jar" refers to the trichomes sticking to the glass. Have you ever noticed that old nugg jars start to get a brownish film inside? That's the trichomes/crystals from the bud (and probably some contaminants from the air, dust etc) that would likely have been recovered on the screen before putting into the jar. I used to feel a little guilty about putting buds on the screen when they were destined for market, but if you do it very mildly, you really do just reduce the amount that will end up on the jars/bags. I can't stress enough how little you want to roll them on the screen! It doesn't take much. It's easy to get excited seeing all that golden goodness forming on the glass, but don't get carried away. It was surprising how much you can take off without making any real detectable difference on the buds. I think what happens is you are just kind of smoothing out all the high points of the bud. These are the same spots that will be touching the sides of the jar, so you are removing them preemptively. I run the buds across the screen after they have dried on the string (4-8 days depending on conditions and buds) and after I have removed individual buds from branches (I hang them as whole plants or branches). Hope this helps.


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## SimonD (Dec 20, 2012)

Not much to add to Hiker's comments. Good post. Above are a couple of pics showing the kief that just fell out of the bud. That's right, it fell out. You can see by its color that we're essentially dealing with first sift quality. 

Simon


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## Hiker (Dec 20, 2012)

SimonD said:


> Not much to add to Hiker's comments. Good post.


Thanks 



SimonD said:


> Above are a couple of pics showing the kief that just fell out of the bud. That's right, it fell out. You can see by its color that we're essentially dealing with first sift quality.
> 
> Simon


What are we looking at here? Is that your piece of glass resting over the screen tray?

I'm still many weeks away from needing this stuff, but I better start thinking now about what system I want to use


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## SimonD (Dec 20, 2012)

Hiker said:


> What are we looking at here? Is that your piece of glass resting over the screen tray?


I have a pair of large screened boxes. You're seeing the (glass) bottom of one box laid over the top of another.



> I'm still many weeks away from needing this stuff, but I better start thinking now about what system I want to use


Always good to plan ahead. I try to, as well.

Simon


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## joker0020 (Dec 22, 2012)

hey SimonD, I was wondering if the box you have was something you built yourself, and if youve ever written a diy for it


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## SimonD (Dec 24, 2012)

joker0020 said:


> hey SimonD, I was wondering if the box you have was something you built yourself, and if youve ever written a diy for it


I had the boxes made a few years ago. After looking for big screened boxes for ages and never finding anything big enough, a friend suggested an acquaintance of his for the project. The security hassle has fairly extensive, but at the end it was all worth it. The boxes are fantastic!

Simon


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## Hiker (Dec 24, 2012)

Simon, could we see pics of the whole setup you're using?

I apologize if you already posted them somewhere.


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## Zachyeal (Dec 26, 2012)

hey I'm kinda new to growing, and i know next to nothing about harvesting, and though my girl is no where near that stage yet, I'm wondering if you have any tips for curing without one of those devices shown in the first post, as I'm on a pretty strict budget. is there a way I should be able to tell by eye or smell or touch?? Thanks for your time.


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## Zachyeal (Dec 26, 2012)

I mean, i know i have to burp it every 12 hours for about 2-4 hours, but is there a way to tell when it's moister level is optimal for smoking? some kind of discoloration, or textural difference that might help me out??


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## Hiker (Dec 26, 2012)

Zachyeal said:


> I mean, i know i have to burp it every 12 hours for about 2-4 hours, but is there a way to tell when it's moister level is optimal for smoking? some kind of discoloration, or textural difference that might help me out??


Wait as long as you possibly can.


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## Zachyeal (Dec 26, 2012)

if their was a way to tell how much moister leaves the plant during burping, like say, at first the buds start with 70% moister after drying, and say, 5% dissipates during a 2 hour burping session, then I could just gauge from that...I guess it'd be optimal if I had one of those hygrometer things, but it's just not in the budget -.-


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## Zachyeal (Dec 26, 2012)

Hiker said:


> Wait as long as you possibly can.


But how do I know I haven't waited too long? after this plant, I'm gonna set aside some cash for a hygrometer, but in the meantime I gotta work with my eyes I guess lol. This is medicine for me, so I want it to be as perfect as possible, to get the affects I need, so I don't have to go back to the hospital lmao


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## Hiker (Dec 26, 2012)

Zachyeal said:


> if their was a way to tell how much moister leaves the plant during burping, like say, at first the buds start with 70% moister after drying, and say, 5% dissipates during a 2 hour burping session, then I could just gauge from that...I guess it'd be optimal if I had one of those hygrometer things, but it's just not in the budget -.-


Without a device to measure that #, how can you know? Everyone's situation will be different because we all have different levels of RH. You will never get it below the RH of the air obviously. If you're in a more humid environment, I would err on the side of a little extra dry before jarring. If it's dry there, like it was for me in socal, I would err on the side of slightly less dry when jarring.

This is one of those things that experience will be your best teacher. You will get a "feel" for when they are ready to go into jars. Once in the jars, I stand by my original statement. It sounds like you're doing a very small grow for a personal stash. If so, then as long as you can let it cure, the better. Problem is, in this situation, you usually can't wait too long!


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## Zachyeal (Dec 26, 2012)

Hiker said:


> Without a device to measure that #, how can you know? Everyone's situation will be different because we all have different levels of RH. You will never get it below the RH of the air obviously. If you're in a more humid environment, I would err on the side of a little extra dry before jarring. If it's dry there, like it was for me in socal, I would err on the side of slightly less dry when jarring.
> 
> This is one of those things that experience will be your best teacher. You will get a "feel" for when they are ready to go into jars. Once in the jars, I stand by my original statement. It sounds like you're doing a very small grow for a personal stash. If so, then as long as you can let it cure, the better. Problem is, in this situation, you usually can't wait too long!


Very cool, I kinda had a feeling it was going to come down to accumulated experience, so I'll start a new log for my drying and curing processes to further develop my own skills, and share my results with you guys, so stay tuned for progress pictures of my girl  Thanks again for your time and information


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## oceangreen (Dec 26, 2012)

humidity really is not the only thing...

I just hang up the whole bad girl...


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## Shik (Dec 27, 2012)

Simon, 

I love your boxes! I concur with the others who have posted.

Would you please give us some insight into how to make these? Possibly take some more pictures for us? I am sure I could figure it out from there.


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## Derple (Dec 28, 2012)

Very nice guide man! Tried it out myself and it worked like a charm, thanks man.


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## SimonD (Dec 28, 2012)

Hiker said:


> Simon, could we see pics of the whole setup you're using?
> 
> I apologize if you already posted them somewhere.





Shik said:


> Simon,
> 
> I love your boxes! I concur with the others who have posted.
> 
> Would you please give us some insight into how to make these? Possibly take some more pictures for us? I am sure I could figure it out from there.


I hate to sound cryptic and/or blow off folks' questions, so I'll just spit it out. I'm not exactly a legal grower and I firmly believe in respecting the authorities by not baiting them on the forums, or elsewhere. As such, I don't post my op, the exact yields, etc. I'm actually purposefully vague about the exact wattage and the like.

Believe me when I say that I would LOVE to show you guys the boxes. They're setup in a 2-tier arrangement with an auxiliary light and fan, all on a metal rack. I'm pretty proud of it. It's something I've wanted for years. Literally. But, there's a problem. The work is kinda unique and the boxes can be identified. It wouldn't take the efforts of MI6 to find me within a short period. I have a family, I live in an upper class neighborhood, my children are just starting their lives. There's a lot to lose. Having lived though Overgrow, never again.

Simon


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## Iffy (Dec 29, 2012)

Simon, I used your techinique, almost to the letter, for my first time cure of some Cheese Auto bud. Came out perfect, smooth, and tasty. Thanks for the great cure system!


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## SimonD (Dec 29, 2012)

light that shit said:


> i use a simple way for dryin n curin .. hang upside down for 11-15 days , put into tupperware box for 6 days (no burpin) on the 6th day burp for 1 hour back into tupper ware box for 4-5 days and BOOOOM! job done .. smoke that makes ya eyes bleed when ya toke it . not saying thats the best way by any means .. *but works for me everytime.*


Thank you for sharing. I highlighted that comment, because it leads to an important distinction. As above, the product is dried - upside down, of course - for 10-15 days and then allowed to rehydrate for a similar period. Best case scenario, there's an actual 5-7 days of curing taking place before "BOOOOM!" happens. Once can certainly appreciate how this works for you and your current point of reference. Fair enough. Given everything you've learned since birth, much of which was certain to modify you perspective later in time, and the admittedly sophomoric process outlined above, don't you think the methodology can be refined to where BOOOOM! BOOOOM! (that's one more BOOOOM! for those counting) might come about and benefit _you_ most of all? Just curious.

Simon


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## Chezia67 (Dec 30, 2012)

Hi Sticky, this is a wonderful tool for the process of drying. Do you have a website URL at all. My partner will love this little gadget . I have also posted an article about smell if you could read and advise 
A wonderful new year to all . 
Chezia67


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## Hiker (Dec 31, 2012)

SimonD said:


> I hate to sound cryptic and/or blow off folks' questions, so I'll just spit it out. I'm not exactly a legal grower and I firmly believe in respecting the authorities by not baiting them on the forums, or elsewhere. As such, I don't post my op, the exact yields, etc. I'm actually purposefully vague about the exact wattage and the like.
> 
> Believe me when I say that I would LOVE to show you guys the boxes. They're setup in a 2-tier arrangement with an auxiliary light and fan, all on a metal rack. I'm pretty proud of it. It's something I've wanted for years. Literally. But, there's a problem. The work is kinda unique and the boxes can be identified. It wouldn't take the efforts of MI6 to find me within a short period. I have a family, I live in an upper class neighborhood, my children are just starting their lives. There's a lot to lose. Having lived though Overgrow, never again.
> 
> Simon


I understand. I guess I'm just having trouble envisioning a multiple tray system for doing that minimal screening of the bud between hanging and putting into container for curing. Maybe you're referring to your dryer racks?

Also... what is "overgrow"?


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## SimonD (Dec 31, 2012)

Chezia67 said:


> Hi Sticky, this is a wonderful tool for the process of drying. Do you have a website URL at all. My partner will love this little gadget . I have also posted an article about smell if you could read and advise
> A wonderful new year to all .
> Chezia67


My wife often jokes how we should have gone into the hygrometer business. 

You can buy the hygrometers on ebay or Amazon. They cost ~$20. Good luck.

Simon


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## SimonD (Dec 31, 2012)

Hiker said:


> I understand. I guess I'm just having trouble envisioning a multiple tray system for doing that minimal screening of the bud between hanging and putting into container for curing. Maybe you're referring to your dryer racks?


I didn't explain this well. It's not a multiple tray system. Nothing that complicated. In essence, it's a kief (sifter-type) box, just a lot bigger. I have two. Three, actually, but one isn't as large as the others. FWIW, I started out with a pair of 12x12 boxes that I got on ebay, similar to the Natural Goods boxes that are sold there now.

For drying, I use racks similar to this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honey-Can-Do-Commercial-Chrome-Accordion-Drying-Rack-24-linear-feet-/261039105945?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cc724a799



> Also... what is "overgrow"?


Sorry, Overgrow.com was the biggest canna forum in its time. To this day, nothing has come close to what OG offered. ICmag holds some of the last remnants of the group and its collective knowledge, though its GrowFAQ can still be found as the core of Cervantes' book. The board went down, after its owner's home was raided, and many of us went underground as a result. It's a long, complicated story. 

Simon


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## Hiker (Dec 31, 2012)

SimonD said:


> Overgrow.com was the biggest canna forum in its time. To this day, nothing has come close to what OG offered. ICmag holds some of the last remnants of the group and its collective knowledge, though its GrowFAQ can still be found as the core of Cervantes' book. The board went down, after its owner's home was raided, and many of us went underground as a result. It's a long, complicated story.


Now that you explain it, I think I've seen others reference that before. 

I'm sorry I missed that. Sounds like a wonderful resource. I took a 'little' 14 year hiatus from growing. All we had back then was the "handbook" and each other to talk to. Luckily, there was a pretty good scene going on in San Diego at the time, so I knew a lot of talented growers. Within my circle, I was 'the electrical guy', so I got to help setup a LOT of cool grow rooms. I'm dealing with a little bit of information overload with all these websites that are around now! I'm grateful they are here though. I've found I forgot far more then I remember. I'm so glad there is a way to share information now since otherwise I wouldn't have anyone to ask questions.


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## purpslovindude (Jan 3, 2013)

Goto YouTube and Google jorge's bud mold washing and you should find a video on how to wash the mold of the buds. It will extend the process a couple more days but you'll have smoke able product in the end


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## Hed Zeppelin (Jan 3, 2013)

I tried the jar method previously to reading this. It is drier than a popcorn fart! It makes sense to get a hygrometer and perhaps I let it hang too long before putting into jars. Like others say there is no aroma until you break into the buds and I wish it had turned out more potent. Next time I will get a hygrometer and try this out. Nice tutorial.


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## rocpilefsj (Jan 3, 2013)

Hed Zeppelin said:


> I tried the jar method previously to reading this. It is drier than a popcorn fart! It makes sense to get a hygrometer and perhaps I let it hang too long before putting into jars. Like others say there is no aroma until you break into the buds and I wish it had turned out more potent. Next time I will get a hygrometer and try this out. Nice tutorial.


Then you definitely waited too long to get them into the jars and they were over dried. It is a lot better to put them into the jars a little too wet than too dry. At least you can dump them out of the jars and let them dry more. Once the buds are over dried there is nothing you can do to "re-start" the curing process. Yours buds may still be decent, bu they will not have the smell and potency that they could have. Live and learn!


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## TheEvilBanana (Jan 5, 2013)

Just received a few Caliber IV hygrometers for my "perfect cure". Thanks for the informative post Simon.

Just FYI. The Caliber III's production has been ceased by Western Hygrometer due to patent infringement by a chinese manufacturer who produced cheap knockoff's and saturated the American market with them causing Western a lot of problems like complaints from poorly working units, which when returned were found to be these cheap chinese knockoffs. So be careful when ordering a Caliber III off the internet. 

I have been assured by the manufacturer that the Caliber IV is an even better unit which also allows for user calibration. Though the caliber IV comes with the same stock calibration as the III and can be used right out of the box.


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## TechnoMage (Jan 5, 2013)

+rep for the idea of using a Hygrometer. I cure in 1/2 gallon jars and being able to drop one of these in the jars will really let me hit the right humidity level before I vacuum seal them in pint size jars.


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## SimonD (Jan 5, 2013)

TheEvilBanana said:


> Just received a few Caliber IV hygrometers for my "perfect cure". Thanks for the informative post Simon.
> 
> Just FYI. The Caliber III's production has been ceased by Western Hygrometer due to *patent infringement by a chinese manufacturer who produced cheap knockoff's and saturated the American market* with them causing Western a lot of problems like complaints from poorly working units, which when returned were found to be these cheap chinese knockoffs. So be careful when ordering a Caliber III off the internet.
> 
> I have been assured by the manufacturer that the Caliber IV is an even better unit which also allows for user calibration. Though the caliber IV comes with the same stock calibration as the III and can be used right out of the box.


Amazing. Our community can create quite the demand for what's essentially a product aimed at a very limited market. Thank you for posting this. I'll be ordering some Caliber IVs, as well.

Simon


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## Chezia67 (Jan 10, 2013)

Hi Simon, do you have a link for this product. Looks amazing . 
Thanks


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## TheEvilBanana (Jan 10, 2013)

Chezia67 said:


> Hi Simon, do you have a link for this product. Looks amazing .
> Thanks


You can find them on amazon for like $15. But as I stated in my post it may be difficult to find the Caliber III's because they've been discontinued but the Caliber IV's are the same and you can calibrate it.


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## Chezia67 (Jan 15, 2013)

Can anybody recommend an odourless dry box please .


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## mike.hotel (Jan 16, 2013)

@Trousers. Thanks for the calibration info, good stuff.


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## BrianR (Jan 20, 2013)

SimonD said:


> Heh, it's as if folks would rater argue than grow lots of bud. When I started out, I identified a number of growers I wanted to learn from, shut my mouth and listened for a hell of a long time, while putting in the hours in my own garden. Here, the less experience you have, the louder you are. No thanks.
> 
> Simon


I am new. I like to argue as well, but I also like to smoke pot and dont have four months to waist. Thank you for you information.


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## hornedfrog2000 (Jan 21, 2013)

Some decent Info here. http://chemistry.about.com/library/weekly/aa082602a.htm Here too... http://www.kindgreenbuds.com/marijuana-grow-guide/cannabis_maturation_harvesting.html


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## guy incognito (Jan 25, 2013)

Won't the relative humidity inside the jar fluctuate with the temperature?


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## SimonD (Jan 26, 2013)

guy incognito said:


> Won't the relative humidity inside the jar fluctuate with the temperature?


It's a confined, sealed environment. There's not enough air inside a container to produce a meaningful variance.

Simon


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## guy incognito (Jan 26, 2013)

SimonD said:


> It's a confined, sealed environment. There's not enough air inside a container to produce a meaningful variance.
> 
> Simon


My grow room is a confined, sealed environmental too, and when the temperature drops 15*F after lights off the relative humidity goes up. The absolute humidity will be the same, but the relative humidity (what the hygrometer measures) fluctuates with temperature so I don't see why it wouldn't apply to a drying container.


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## SimonD (Jan 26, 2013)

guy incognito said:


> My grow room is a confined, sealed environmental too, and when the temperature drops 15*F after lights off the relative humidity goes up. The absolute humidity will be the same, but the relative humidity (what the hygrometer measures) fluctuates with temperature so I don't see why it wouldn't apply to a drying container.


Your growroom holds a lot more air than a jar. I thought I already explained that. If it still doesn't make sense to you, put one of the suggested hygrometers in a sealed container and note the changes. BTW, the hygrometer doesn't measure the relative humidity. That requires a small calculation and an awareness of the dew point.

As a side note, the condition you describe above - ie. lights go off, temp drops 15F and the absolute humidity remains the same - paints an extremely unlikely picture, as the humidity will surely increase due to transpiration, alone. This is not a guess. As such, I'm at a loss as to where this is going.

Simon


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## Fresh 2 [email protected] (Jan 27, 2013)

trying to understand this, and basically what i've come to if you're buds dry too quick you've basically missed the chance to cure them, am i right?


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## mantiszn (Jan 27, 2013)

basically.. 

people say you can recover them by adding a fresh leaf or eye of newt etc...
it may help a bit... but IMO they are never really the same as if you had got it right first time.

barebones point on the subject is to dry them slowly and evenly


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## guy incognito (Jan 27, 2013)

SimonD said:


> Your growroom holds a lot more air than a jar. I thought I already explained that. If it still doesn't make sense to you, put one of the suggested hygrometers in a sealed container and note the changes. BTW, the hygrometer doesn't measure the relative humidity. That requires a small calculation and an awareness of the dew point.
> 
> As a side note, the condition you describe above - ie. lights go off, temp drops 15F and the absolute humidity remains the same - paints an extremely unlikely picture, as the humidity will surely increase due to transpiration, alone. This is not a guess. As such, I'm at a loss as to where this is going.
> 
> Simon


Hygrometers do measure relative humidity, not absolute humidity.

Absolute humidity is the mass of water vapor compared to the mass of air, and it remains constant in a closed sealed environment (not accounting for things like plant respiration, humidifiers, dehumidifiers, AC, etc). If you seal a jar the mass of water vapor inside is going to stay the same, the water can not go anywhere. When the temp drops in my grow room the absolute humidity stays the same, but the relative humidity changes as a function of the temperature. This is the same reason we get condensation outside as dew. As the temperature drops the relative humidity increases, until the air is saturated and dew starts forming.

Where this was going was to demonstrate the difference between absolute and relative humidity giving you a real world example of another sealed and contained area besides a jar.


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## Fresh 2 [email protected] (Jan 27, 2013)

mantiszn said:


> basically..
> 
> people say you can recover them by adding a fresh leaf or eye of newt etc...
> it may help a bit... but IMO they are never really the same as if you had got it right first time.
> ...


hmm, you talk as if this is fact. do you have any proof other than what you suspect? there are some people that would beg to differ, me being one of them, but if the're is any facts to what you say i would accept or receive it much better than what someone believes.


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## guy incognito (Jan 27, 2013)

At 70*F and 50% relative humidity there is approximately 0.008 lbs water vapor per pound of dry air (This is a measure of absolute humidity). If you heat that up to 85*F it will still have 0.008 lbs of water per lb of dry air, that can't change as no water vapor can enter or exit, and neither can any dry air molecules, but the relative humidity will only be about 30%. Follow the red lines i've placed on the psychrometric chart below.







If you follow the horizontal red line to the left, past the 70* mark, you can see you will eventually hit the saturation curve (ie relative humidity = 100%) at about 50*F. So if it was 70*F and 50% humidity outside, and the temperature dropped to below 50*F you will start getting dew condensing because the air will be saturated with water, it cannot physically hold anymore so it's condensing out.

I deal with relative and absolute humidity every day in my profession, I understand how it works. A 15*F swing can, and will effect relative humidity. 

I have not done this method, and I do not know what role semi dry marijuana in a jar will have on the relative humidity inside the jar. I just want to clear up some apparent misconceptions on what hygrometers measure, and the difference between absolute and relative humidity relative to temperature.


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## SimonD (Jan 27, 2013)

guy incognito said:


> Hygrometers do measure relative humidity, not absolute humidity.
> 
> Absolute humidity is the mass of water vapor compared to the mass of air, and it remains constant in a closed sealed environment (not accounting for things like plant respiration, humidifiers, dehumidifiers, AC, etc). If you seal a jar the mass of water vapor inside is going to stay the same, the water can not go anywhere.


As I've said twice before, there's not enough air inside a sealed curing container to make a meaningful difference in the readings. It's a lot smaller than your sealed growroom.



> * When the temp drops in my grow room the absolute humidity stays the same, but the relative humidity changes as a function of the temperature.* This is the same reason we get condensation outside as dew. As the temperature drops the relative humidity increases, until the air is saturated and dew starts forming.


The absolute humidity in your growroom can't stay the same due to transpiration. It's a fact, not a guess. We've been here, as well. 



> Where this was going was to demonstrate the difference between absolute and relative humidity giving you a real world example of *another sealed and contained area besides a jar*.


To be honest, we're only concerned with what happens inside the jar and are happy to leave the meteorologic discussions to other forums. Thank you for the explanation; I'm sure that some found it useful. Now let's move on.

Simon


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## mantiszn (Jan 27, 2013)

do you know what IMO means?
obviously not .. or you wouldn't have made this statement.

you can beg to differ all you like, believe what you want and dry your buds as quickly as you can..
if you want proof look for it, I'm not your assistant..
personally I make decisions based on my experiences.. 






Fresh 2 [email protected] said:


> hmm, you talk as if this is fact. do you have any proof other than what you suspect? there are some people that would beg to differ, me being one of them, but if the're is any facts to what you say i would accept or receive it much better than what someone believes.


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## guy incognito (Jan 27, 2013)

SimonD said:


> As I've said twice before, there's not enough air inside a sealed curing container to make a meaningful difference in the readings. It's a lot smaller than your sealed growroom.


You can say it as many times as you like but the chemistry applies regardless of volume. Change the temperature and you change the relative humidity. I suspect that since most of the volume inside the jar is marijuana (and not air) that it would have a dampening effect on the humidity swings (ie RH increases and the weed will absorb more moisture making the RH of the air lower, and when RH decreases the mj will release more moisture making the RH higher). 




SimonD said:


> The absolute humidity in your growroom can't stay the same due to transpiration. It's a fact, not a guess. We've been here, as well.


It also can't stay the same because of the dehumidifier and air conditioner. My point wasn't that the grow room is a static environment, my point is that when temp goes down, relative humidity increases, and vice versa. You can notice this in your grow room with a rapid change in temperature (up or down) despite transpiration.



SimonD said:


> To be honest, we're only concerned with what happens inside the jar and are happy to leave the meteorologic discussions to other forums. Thank you for the explanation; I'm sure that some found it useful. Now let's move on.
> 
> Simon


Agreed, but I believe the meteorological discussions is applicable, not only to this specific case but to growing in general. I haven't got my hygrometers and tried this method yet, i'm just trying to anticipate potential problems based on my knowledge of how humidity works. Most people do not get the education to understand what absolute and relative humidity are and how they are affected by temperature unless they get a technical degree in the sciences at university. Even among the college educated I find most of them do not have a fundamental understanding of the science. I also see examples on this forum of people that do not understand how it works. I would hate to be checking my jars at 70* and see 55% humidity, only to have it shoot down to 30% and kill my cure when my grow room heats up, then have it jump back up to 55% when I check it the next day at 70*F. Also vice versa (seeing acceptable RH, then having the RH be too high during lights off, only to return to an acceptable RH the next time I check it). Neither situation would be good. 

I hope that some people do find the information useful. 

Does anyone ever notice a change in RH (in your jar) with a temperature swing? Do you always check it at the same time of day (and thus same temp in grow room)?


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## SimonD (Jan 28, 2013)

Forgive me for not explaining that most of the volume in a sealed container is taken up by the bud and its associated moisture. Seems pretty obvious to folks who harvest and cure weed, and it's, well, kinda the crux of the entire process. Please stop trolling this thread. We're not here to debate non-applicable constraints with someone with zero experience, we're not here to play games with the contents of your growroom, and we're not about to take anyone seriously who had to start a thread asking about controlling condensing water vapor in his own garden. Doing "this for a living" apparently didn't help. It's time for you to go back to Toke n Talk..

*...my point is that when temp goes down, relative humidity increases, and vice versa.*..

I'll inform the press.

Simon


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## guy incognito (Jan 28, 2013)

SimonD said:


> Forgive me for not explaining that most of the volume in a sealed container is taken up by the bud and its associated moisture. Seems pretty obvious to folks who harvest and cure weed, and it's, well, kinda the crux of the entire process. Please stop trolling this thread. We're not here to debate non-applicable constraints with someone with zero experience, we're not here to play games with the contents of your growroom, and we're not about to take anyone seriously who had to start a thread asking about controlling condensing water vapor in his own garden. Doing "this for a living" apparently didn't help. It's time for you to go back to Toke n Talk..
> 
> *...my point is that when temp goes down, relative humidity increases, and vice versa.*..
> 
> ...


EDIT: I reread this and seems like I am coming off as a dick, which is not my intent. I appreciate the information you bring to RIU, and I just want to understand exactly what is happening during the dry/cure beyond simply following a set of instructions. So thank you for taking the time to post this information for everyone including myself. I know a lot of things, but I also know that I don't know everything and still have a ton to learn. With that being said I have left the rest of this post uneditted. [/EDIT]

I'm not trolling this thread. I asked a question directly related to the process you are promoting. I was not satisfied with your response because you don't understand the difference between absolute and relative humidty, and you apparently don't even know what a hygrometer measures. You may be right about the stability of the RH in a closed jar, but for completely wrong reasons. Sorry if I don't just blindly take the advice of people actively demonstrating their ignorance.

I'm not sure what your point about my condensation thread is. If you read it it clearly shows I understand the physical properties that are happening, I wanted to see what other members solutions were so I could choose the most economical without compromising my security or quality. 

My intent was never to troll or to be a dick. I have been doing almost exactly this method of curing for years, but without the use of hygrometers. I like to understand what is going on in my grow on a fundamental level, during all stages.

If anyone is interested the following links provide some information on the humidity exchange with absorbent materials. The first one is about wood and seems directly applicable to this discussion, and the 2nd one is the index which has tons of information relating to environmental control, much of which is very technical and more information than needed for this discussion, but is interesting none the less.

http://www.conservationphysics.org/rhbuff/buffer1.php

http://www.conservationphysics.org/index.php


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## GrowBrooklyn (Jan 28, 2013)

> only to have it shoot down to 30% and kill my cure when my grow room heats up


Why on earth would you keep your jars in your grow room? The idea is to keep them in a cool, dark, dry place, like a closet or the kitchen pantry.


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## jerry1 (Jan 28, 2013)

So wtf, now I'm mega confused. Mr. Ganja.. whats your method of curing???


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## ASMALLVOICE (Jan 29, 2013)

A psychrometric chart and a full understanding of enthalpy is needed to debate the who, what, where and when of the physics of humidity.

It is pretty much an exact science at this point. So the temp down, humidity up, is only part of the equation, there are several other factors that determine what will bring about a rise or fall in humidity levels, not always temperature related.

Way more than is needed for curing buds, but I am stoned to the bone and just had to chime in that factoid.

Love this thread by the way.

Peace

Asmallvoice


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## Dank Raptor (Jan 29, 2013)

perfect cure takes experience. nothin else. Science debate all you like its just funny if you read the last couple pages. Do you guys talk like that in real life?


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## ASMALLVOICE (Jan 29, 2013)

Dank Raptor said:


> perfect cure takes experience. nothin else. Science debate all you like its just funny if you read the last couple pages. Do you guys talk like that in real life?


I agree, but to answer your question, yea, I do. I am an environmental control technician. HVAC automation is how I make a living. Been at it for over 20 years, yea, I am just 2 days younger than dirt...lol

Peace

Asmallvoice

PS: I dig that avatar.


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## Fresh 2 [email protected] (Jan 29, 2013)

mantiszn said:


> do you know what IMO means?
> obviously not .. or you wouldn't have made this statement.
> 
> you can beg to differ all you like, believe what you want and dry your buds as quickly as you can..
> ...


listen lame, i didn't ask for your opinion and could care less for it, i was and i'm still looking for facts. don't know how you would answer a question that didn't request for your silly opinion; totally defeat the purpose for me even asking,stupid.


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## guy incognito (Jan 29, 2013)

GrowBrooklyn said:


> Why on earth would you keep your jars in your grow room? The idea is to keep them in a cool, dark, dry place, like a closet or the kitchen pantry.


For a variety of reasons: family, friends, smell control, climate control. I can't be having a kid find a pantry full of weed. I can't be having anybody find anything or smell anything. I also can't live like a hermit and not allow people that frown on marijuana use into my house, because they include some friends and family. The environment is also controlled in that room. I know what the temp and humidity are going to be at all times. The temperature isn't much higher than the rest of the house, and they are not stored under the lights or anything. I think it is the best place to store it.



ASMALLVOICE said:


> A psychrometric chart and a full understanding of enthalpy is needed to debate the who, what, where and when of the physics of humidity.
> 
> It is pretty much an exact science at this point. So the temp down, humidity up, is only part of the equation, there are several other factors that determine what will bring about a rise or fall in humidity levels, not always temperature related.
> 
> ...


I was oversimplifying it to demonstrate the effect temperature has on RH. Ultimately simon was right about the relative humidity staying pretty constant despite temperature swings because the buffering effect of the marijuana. 



Dank Raptor said:


> perfect cure takes experience. nothin else. Science debate all you like its just funny if you read the last couple pages. Do you guys talk like that in real life?


Experience is invaluable, but science helps us understand why things happen, and helps us do it better. I talk like that in real life.


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## mantiszn (Jan 29, 2013)

Actually you did ask dumbass.. and you didn't mention the word science fact or evidence when asking originally which is why my opinion was given.

If you don't want someone's opinion then don't come onto a public forum asking fucking ridiculous questions everyone already knows the answer to because they could be bothered reading first.

This site needs a fucking moron filter. Oh wait it has one +ignore



Fresh 2 [email protected] said:


> trying to understand this, and basically what i've come to if you're buds dry too quick you've basically missed the chance to cure them, am i right?


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## Fresh 2 [email protected] (Jan 30, 2013)

mantiszn said:


> Actually you did ask dumbass.. and you didn't mention the word science fact or evidence when asking originally which is why my opinion was given.
> 
> If you don't want someone's opinion then don't come onto a public forum asking fucking ridiculous questions everyone already knows the answer to because they could be bothered reading first.
> 
> This site needs a fucking moron filter. Oh wait it has one +ignore


haha, you're too funny lame. if you notice that question denoted for an answer of facts and not fiction or what you believe in, you dick in a butt. 
if you check my response back to your initial reply to my rhetorical question, you can easily come to the conclusion that you and your silly reasoning wasn't required or needed, so stay in your lane lame, and keep passing out false/bogus info of what you believe in in the help me threads with the rest of the noobs. 

one thing you are right about though, RIU definitely needs to start screening or red flagging some of these members, mainly starting with lames like yourself, for perpetuating all this bogus info floating here. if and when they do, you can kiss your membership goodbye, loser.


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## kryptoniteglo (Jan 31, 2013)

Science, schmience. All I wanted to know when I opened this thread was how not to fuck up my cure. 

And now I know. A Perfect Cure gives outstanding instructions to give a first-time harvester a perfect cure. I'm in my second week of curing, and my jars are showing low 60s on one plant and just registered 67% on another (funny how different plants cure differently!), so I've opened the jars on the 67% girl and will close them up later.

I'm SO happy they're not drying too fast! Thank you SimonD!


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## SimonD (Feb 1, 2013)

[video=youtube;oIS5n9Oyzsc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&amp;v=oIS5n9Oyzsc[/video]

The joking aside, there is no disagreement here. At all. Yes, temperature has an effect on humidity. No kidding. It's Growroom101. The rest, frankly, is a whole lot of self-aggrandizing bullshit. We can sit here and spout poetic about absolute humidity, specific humidity, relative humidity and spend a whole lot of time achieving nothing. It's one of the reasons I kept the thread closed. Proceed as you wish.

BTW, I do talk like this IRL. 

Simon


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## Dendrophilly (Feb 5, 2013)

what does rh stand for?


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## GrowBrooklyn (Feb 6, 2013)

RH = Relative Humidity

It is the humidity at a given temperature. For curing purposes, just think RH = humidity unless you are working at unusually high or low temps.


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## GreatDane (Feb 16, 2013)

Thanks SimonD. I have a Caliber IV that I will use for this when the time comes. Simple and easy. +Rep to you.


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## woz from oz (Feb 18, 2013)

I find the Caliber really effective. Thank you SimonD.


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## Edgar9 (Feb 19, 2013)

Tough crowd in here, I guess curing is a touchy subject. I did want to add that I was going to get the caliber III but you can't calibrate it like you can with the xikar. I went with the xikar and I love it and it's about the same price on ebay. I use the salt test method to calibrate it and test it again when I think it may need a check. I'm surprised nobody on RUI talks about the xikar, I think it's a kick ass product.

Another thing nobody seems to mention is that I've found you have to get a baseline humidity level in the empty jar first before you add the buds. My empty jar had a rh of 64%.
I think it would be fair to say that if I started with an rh of 64% in the empty jar that it would be pretty damn hard to lower the rh in the jar full of buds to below that baseline level of 64%. I at least found it was tough to do, so when I was at about 67% I went for the cure and things ended up great.


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## SPIRALGENICS (Feb 24, 2013)

www.hygrolid.com Simplifies curing by mounting a hygrometer on the top of a mason jar lid.


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## budbro18 (Mar 8, 2013)

damn havent been here in a while.

crazy to see all these fights. haha


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## guy incognito (Mar 8, 2013)

Edgar9 said:


> Tough crowd in here, I guess curing is a touchy subject. I did want to add that I was going to get the caliber III but you can't calibrate it like you can with the xikar. I went with the xikar and I love it and it's about the same price on ebay. I use the salt test method to calibrate it and test it again when I think it may need a check. I'm surprised nobody on RUI talks about the xikar, I think it's a kick ass product.
> 
> Another thing nobody seems to mention is that I've found you have to get a baseline humidity level in the empty jar first before you add the buds. My empty jar had a rh of 64%.
> I think it would be fair to say that if I started with an rh of 64% in the empty jar that it would be pretty damn hard to lower the rh in the jar full of buds to below that baseline level of 64%. I at least found it was tough to do, so when I was at about 67% I went for the cure and things ended up great.


The rh inside the jar should be the same as whatever room you close the jar in. For example if it is 64% rh in your room, and you have an open jar and put the hygrometer inside the jar and close it...well you've just closed up whatever air is in the room (in this case 64%). The rh will change based on temperature. If you have buds in the jar the rh will not change very much with temperature though, the buds act as a buffer to even out the rh across a temperature differential. What I mean is that if you jar it at 80*F and 60% humidity, and it is somewhat stabilized at that temperature and rh, when the temperature drops to 60*F instead of the rh increasing in response to the temperature drop, the moisture from the air will go back into the bud with the net effect of a temperature independent rh reading.


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## prosperian (Mar 17, 2013)

Harvested my first grow 8 days ago. I live in the south with 35-40% humidity. Had to really keep an eye on the buds the first three to four days in the dry room to hit the 70%. Things working out just like your predicted.

Jars humidity is decreasing and stabilizing. I set my phone alarm for a 12 hour reminder to pop the lids and another couple hours later to put them back on. Hydrometers in the jars are reading 58% when I close jars and 63% when I go to open. 

Should I stay on the same schedule or reduce the frequency and time the lids are staying open? Thanks.


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## Seedplanter63 (Mar 17, 2013)

If your product gets too dry, go to a tobacco store & purchase a "bovida", it's a Rh bag. A company called humidipak makes them, they will raise the moisture content of your product without allowing it to get wet. They also work to keep cured product @ optimal humidity levels. They range in Rh from 65-70%. Fine cigar companies put them in their boxes to hold flavor & essential oils in place for longer shelf life. A $4.00 investment for a lb. of product is a wise investment in my opinion. I've been using them for years & wouldn't be able to store & cure without them. Hope this helps someone, Peace


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## prosperian (Mar 18, 2013)

Thanks. The jars have been capped for 12 hours and are reading 59%. Going to watch them today to see if the humidity creeps up. Usually it would have been at 63-65% in 12 hours. Think the moisture is stabilizing in the buds. Wanted to try to do this without the humidity packs and fall back to those if needed.


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## SimonD (Mar 18, 2013)

Humidity packs are great for maintaining a given level of moisture in the product _after_ it cures. During the cure, however, a humidity pack won't restore product that's too dry.

Simon


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## prosperian (Mar 18, 2013)

Thanks Simon. Guess I will get some humi-packs for my canning jars.


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## Moldy (Mar 28, 2013)

Simon: I tried your method and it appears to work great! Since I have a RH of 21% things move fairly fast. I use a humidfier to hang @ 55% for 4-6 days. Cut em off the stems and then into jars. I got a hygrometer from Ebay and set it in there after about a month of cure. It read 75%. Yikes! so I pulled it out of the jars and put into a paper bag. I let it sit (RH = 21% in the room) for about an hour and put it back into the jars. RH showed 65% solid after a day. Watching now after brief lid openings and working well. Thanks again, nice way to avoid mold (I've never seen it here in the desert) and now I don't have to worry. rep+


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## Trousers (Apr 6, 2013)

Another perfect cure. I have been using Simon's method for years with out realizing it. He got me to use a hygrometer instead of going completely by feel. I was good at it without the hygrometers, but it leaves a lot of room for error. 

I always put the nugs in the jar as the stems are close to snapping or snapping. It is hard to explain, it is like riding a bike for me. The thing is, then I would spend weeks burping the jars. I'm pretty sure I was ending up with the same product, but just wasting a lot of time. 

With the hygrometers it doesn't take me weeks. Once the buds are in the jar, I am usually done in a week.
I have three jars downstairs right now that are hovering at 60%. Once the jars spend an entire night settled at 58% I am done. No more burping or worries. The only time the jars get opened is to grab some buds to smoke. 



SPIRALGENICS said:


> www.hygrolid.com Simplifies curing by mounting a hygrometer on the top of a mason jar lid.


If they would only make those on top of 5 liter jars with digital hygrometers...

I need to find a glass guy to customize my big jars like that.


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## verge (Apr 8, 2013)

How do you know if it's over dried and what and how do a hygrometer works????????? And where can I get one?


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## verge (Apr 8, 2013)

How do you know if it's over dried and what and how do a hygrometer works????????? And where can I get one?


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## budbro18 (Apr 8, 2013)

Trousers said:


> Another perfect cure. I have been using Simon's method for years with out realizing it. He got me to use a hygrometer instead of going completely by feel. I was good at it without the hygrometers, but it leaves a lot of room for error.
> 
> I always put the nugs in the jar as the stems are close to snapping or snapping. It is hard to explain, it is like riding a bike for me. The thing is, then I would spend weeks burping the jars. I'm pretty sure I was ending up with the same product, but just wasting a lot of time.
> 
> ...




I feel ya. when i first made this thread it was more of a "perfect dependent on strain" type dry/cure setup.

Its one of those things that you gotta assess your situation ie. RH%, density of buds, amount of buds per area, amount of exhaust power, etc...

And work from there. Adjust accordingly.

Didnt think this many people would be arguing over actual humidity and relative humidity. haha

But this works if you plan on growing one strain out for several months or longer like i did. After the first run through i had it perfectly dialed in on the second and for about 4-6 chops after that, even through the dry ass winters we have up here.


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## budbro18 (Apr 8, 2013)

verge said:


> How do you know if it's over dried and what and how do a hygrometer works????????? And where can I get one?


If your weed smells like nothing its usually a sign that youve over dried. also if the stem snaps completely in half (depending on strain) youre usually a little past the ideal point to start curing.

A hygrometer measures the RH% or relative humidity % 

This is used to make sure you have enough moisture left in your buds to be distributed evenly throughout


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## MaxYield (Apr 8, 2013)

"i got in the bad habit of drying them too quick, taking about 3 days. i trimed the colas into bite sized buds and with phoenix being hot and dry, it doesn't take long. then i noticed that although the buds smelled great when crushed, the odor when i cracked the ball jars was minimal." 

My friend I think has this very problem...Grows dank weed but I think he's killing all the aroma and taste by drying it too fast. He's been drying about 3-4 days (trimmed) in a slightly ventilated u-haul wardrobe box, then on to jars for burping and storage...Potent, just not tasty as it should be...


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## jollygreen (Apr 15, 2013)

"Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:"

-- Ed Rosenthal says that 50% is the ideal humidity for curing.


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## SimonD (Apr 15, 2013)

jollygreen said:


> "Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:"
> 
> -- Ed Rosenthal says that 50% is the ideal humidity for curing.


Ed is referring to the humidity in the room, as the product is drying. 

Simon


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## DrKingGreen (Apr 16, 2013)

I'll definitely be picking up some tools to use this method for my second grow. This time (my first) I'm going to dry until they almost snap and then just jar and burp. Jarred some this morning and it already smells great! If it intensifies I'll be one happy camper! 
About what weight do you guys lose before jarring? I lost about +-67% before throwing them in today.


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## automated (Apr 18, 2013)

Well this was a long but well worth the experience read hehe
SimonD, thanks for the info, I now have a goal set out to make a curing system, but have some question if you dont mind.

Mason jars, I assume it has to do with the air vacuum, or lack of new oxygen ? 
Is there a limit to how much or many you should put in such a container ? or would it bother the process if there is too much ?

I have some ideas, could you give me your thoughts on it?

I was thinking of a large container like a 50 or 60 liter tupperware like box.
Darkening the outside with something to make it total dark.
Fit it out with lots of small trays (nets spun betweeen racks so I can stack them inside the box with layers)
On the bottom I want to make an inlet which will be sealed and opened automatically when there is ventilation activity.
On the top a small exhaust fan able to suck the air through the box added with a small carbon filter, also seals and opens automatically with ventilation acivity.
Inside, in the middle a humidity sensor and one at the top on the inside near the exhaust opening.
The idea is to hook it up to my climate system so I can automate the starting and stopping of the ventilation based on the humidity levels.

Would it be possible and effective to use such a setup to dry and cure in 1 go ?

Extra question: 
As with all chemical processes in plants, temperature is always a major factor, do you know anything relating to needed temperature or optimal conditions relating to temperature in a curing system ?

made a rather simple image of the idea


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## SimonD (Apr 18, 2013)

automated said:


> Well this was a long but well worth the experience read hehe
> SimonD, thanks for the info, I now have a goal set out to make a curing system, but have some question if you dont mind.
> 
> Mason jars, I assume it has to do with the air vacuum, or lack of new oxygen ?
> ...



Let me think about the idea for a few days, and I'll post back.

Simon


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## automated (Apr 18, 2013)

Much appreciated Simon !


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## DrKingGreen (Apr 18, 2013)

I'm drying my first buds ever and using your method. I couldn't find any hygro's locally so I just bought half gallon mason jars and drop my temp/hum gauge from my grow room down in them for 12 hours until the next burp and switch jars. After 6 1/2 days of drying and 5 days in the jar they most are around 65%. 

Glad I stumbled on to this method! Made things very easy and clear! +REP


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## DrKingGreen (Apr 19, 2013)

Everything was going smoothly with this until the humidity where I live climbed to damn near 100%. Burped my jars without thinking about them soaking up the moisture in the air, and now the humidity in them has raised to 80! Not sure what I need to do here, but I'm thinking a trip to home depot for a dehumidifier might be a must. I've got the 3 jars that went high open in a brown bag in my grow closet now. That usually keeps at 50-55%. Any advice would be appreciated


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## Prohet (Apr 21, 2013)

I have the product in a glass container with plastic air tight lock lid, in a brown bag in my flowering location. 

What would be the perfect temperature for curing? My calibrated Xikar hygrometer in the container indicates higher humidity when the temperature rises. Would be a temperature of around 22 to 24 Celsius be good? Below 20, the humidity in the container is around 55 to 57. When the temperature goes up, the humidity rises to between 60 and 72.

Thanks for your input!


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## Prohet (Apr 21, 2013)

I read somewhere in this thread using cigar packs to get the humidity up. What I do for my cigar humidor is mix 50% distilled water with 50% food grade propylene Glycol (Pharmacy). Then U use Soil Most crystals in a 2oz or 4oz jar, and add the mixture until the crystals are soaked and growing to about 4/5 of the jar.

This keeps the humidity steady at 70% (+- 2%).


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## Herb Man (May 10, 2013)

Very nice.

I'm doing some trial runs with this approach.

All looking well.

Much thanks for sharing.


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## TechnoMage (May 10, 2013)

Just wanted to mention something. I can't recommend enough calibrating your hygrometer. I've got a thread going https://www.rollitup.org/harvesting-curing/643320-gave-my-plant-chop-finished.html where I've been documenting from chop to final vacumn seal. I had both the Caliber IV Thermometer Hygrometer and a collection of cheap ones I purchased on eBay. I used a HumidiPak Calibration Kit on all of them and saw a huge range of ratings. The nice thing however is that even with the cheap ones, if you know how far they are off, you can compensate. This batch was reading high. Actual RH is 75.5%.





I had another batch that was reading low by about the same amounts. 




The difference between 60% RH and 50% or 70% is huge. 50% means you've killed any curing, 70% and you're in danger of getting mold. You can get a calibration kit on eBay for $6 shipped, well worth the peace of mind.


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## Herb Man (May 10, 2013)

TechnoMage said:


> The difference between 60% RH and 50% or 70% is huge. 50% means you've killed any curing, 70% and you're in danger of getting mold. You can get a calibration kit on eBay for $6 shipped, well worth the peace of mind.


You can calibrate those small cheap ones?


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## TechnoMage (May 10, 2013)

Herb Man said:


> You can calibrate those small cheap ones?


No but I could stick a small label on them to show how much they are off. So I know this one reads 8% high


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## Herb Man (May 11, 2013)

TechnoMage said:


> No but I could stick a small label on them to show how much they are off. So I know this one reads 8% high


Cool, thanks for the heads up.


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## grimeygreasy (May 12, 2013)

I'm assuming for those people who have a larger amount of product, that the same procedure would apply but with a larger vessel (rubbermaid, garbage bag etc). One thing that wasn't mentioned in the OP was an approximate start to finish timeline (obviously this will vary some) for this method. How long do you spend on racks before everything is ready to start the curing process?


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## TechnoMage (May 12, 2013)

grimeygreasy said:


> I'm assuming for those people who have a larger amount of product, that the same procedure would apply but with a larger vessel (rubbermaid, garbage bag etc). One thing that wasn't mentioned in the OP was an approximate start to finish timeline (obviously this will vary some) for this method. How long do you spend on racks before everything is ready to start the curing process?


Depends on a lot of things, what the humidity is like where you're drying, how big the buds are, how dense they are.

For my situation, the bud tends to stay on racks for 2-4 days and then in paper bags for another 2-4 days. Along the way, I periodically seal the bud into mason jars to get an accurate RH % reading. If the reading is over 68%, I put in the rack for another day. 63%-68%, it goes back into the paper bags. Once it hits 63%, I start short curing in jars. This involves leaving the jars open for several hours a day until I get the RH down to 60%. 

Once I hit 60% I'm into the long cure. I only open the jars about twice a week and then only for about 10 seconds. All I want to do is burp the jar, stir the bud up a little and then get them sealed up before I lose any humidity. I'll do that for about a month. I'm about 1 week into this stage over in this thread https://www.rollitup.org/harvesting-curing/643320-gave-my-plant-chop-finished-3.html.

After that, I'll vacuum seal them for long term storage in a mix of pint and 1/2 pint mason jars.


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## grimeygreasy (May 15, 2013)

TechnoMage said:


> Depends on a lot of things, what the humidity is like where you're drying, how big the buds are, how dense they are.
> 
> For my situation, the bud tends to stay on racks for 2-4 days and then in paper bags for another 2-4 days. Along the way, I periodically seal the bud into mason jars to get an accurate RH % reading. If the reading is over 68%, I put in the rack for another day. 63%-68%, it goes back into the paper bags. Once it hits 63%, I start short curing in jars. This involves leaving the jars open for several hours a day until I get the RH down to 60%.
> 
> ...


Thank you very much for your input. A little side info, my drying room is stable @ 50% RH, 19C. The buds are on the larger side, once plants are trimmed everything lives in https://www.lamota.org/en/hanging-drying-rack-round/# until the whole thing (the rack collapses) goes into a large garbage bag. This is done so that the racks can be removed, expanded, and hung again with ease if need be. Ive essentially been using the method described in this thread, but never as exact, measuring RH etc.

Normally everything gets left on the racks until, by feel, its ready to go into the garbage bags to sweat. This time however, I started bagging the racks and measuring the RH periodically to get a feel for where I was on the humidity/schedule compared to my previous method. It required constant monitoring to be sure there is no chance of mold, and takes a little longer than my previous method, but I think it has been beneficial to compare my "feel" to actual humidity levels. Also, with my previous method, I always ran the risk of overdrying in the first stage. 

A quick point of note: In the beginning, around hr 48, I had tried to use a large tupperware tub to attempt to recreate this method on a larger scale. I wasn't comfortable with the way everything settled and compressed in the bottom with the high humidity levels (73% after about 2 hrs, and still rising). I find that bagging the racks keeps everything somewhat separate, the humidity seems to be spread more evenly throughout the product this way, and the desired effect is still achieved.

Product had been on the racks for ~84 hrs, with around 12 of those hrs wasted bagging/tubbing and checking RH only to remove and continue to hang after getting readings of 70%+ in a very short time, and in bags now for 12hrs since last night. Everything is now stabilizing in the mid to high 60s and based on what Ive seen, I'm confident that after ~8 or so hrs of bags being open for airflow, I will be able to tie them up one last time for a solid 12-24 hrs stretch of curing at the optimal RH range. Then it will be vac-sealed for long term storage/cure.

All in all, Its a little more work and takes a little longer than my previous method. But I think I can shave off some time once I try it again, and maybe only be ~24 hrs behind the old way. After reading the science behind what actually happens when curing in the optimal range, the detrimental effects of overdrying, and the benefits of a quality cure, I'm confident that the small sacrifice of time and effort will be well worth it. And really, considering the process from seed to smoke, what is an extra 24 hrs to do things the right way?

Thanks for starting this thread!


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## TechnoMage (May 15, 2013)

grimeygreasy said:


> Thank you very much for your input. A little side info, my drying room is stable @ 50% RH, 19C. The buds are on the larger side, once plants are trimmed everything lives in https://www.lamota.org/en/hanging-drying-rack-round/# until the whole thing (the rack collapses) goes into a large garbage bag. This is done so that the racks can be removed, expanded, and hung again with ease if need be. Ive essentially been using the method described in this thread, but never as exact, measuring RH etc.
> 
> Normally everything gets left on the racks until, by feel, its ready to go into the garbage bags to sweat. This time however, I started bagging the racks and measuring the RH periodically to get a feel for where I was on the humidity/schedule compared to my previous method. It required constant monitoring to be sure there is no chance of mold, and takes a little longer than my previous method, but I think it has been beneficial to compare my "feel" to actual humidity levels. Also, with my previous method, I always ran the risk of overdrying in the first stage.
> 
> ...


Yeah, my RH is much lower. Never gets above high 30s in my house. I'm also doing a much smaller amount. That hanging rack would be complete overkill. I'd need something closer to 35cm diameter and only 2 racks. I like the idea of leaving it on the rack and bagging. I need to see if I can do something similar.

Totally agree that it's worth the extra time to do it right. I'm going to cure it for a month before I vacuum seal it anyway.

Had some friends over the other night and cracked open a fresh jar that had been sealed about a year. My buddies couldn't believe the difference between some properly cured weed and the shit they had been smoking.

FYI, didn't start the thread, just contribute.


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## grimeygreasy (May 15, 2013)

TechnoMage said:


> Yeah, my RH is much lower. Never gets above high 30s in my house. I'm also doing a much smaller amount. That hanging rack would be complete overkill. I'd need something closer to 35cm diameter and only 2 racks. I like the idea of leaving it on the rack and bagging. I need to see if I can do something similar.
> 
> Totally agree that it's worth the extra time to do it right. I'm going to cure it for a month before I vacuum seal it anyway.
> 
> ...


Ya, the bagging of the racks in my case is the most efficient way, I like to handle everything as little as possible and transfers back and forth to and from tubs/jars wouldn't be time effective at all. A similar method with a smaller rack/bag would work just as well I would think though. Its only that particular room that gets that high, I presume its from the racks hanging in there and being totally sealed other than the A/C and exhaust. It is a convenient way to make sure that it doesn't dry too fast though.

Thanks for your contributions, and to the OP for opening the thread


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## BurlingtonBam (May 23, 2013)

Has anyone used Humidipaks? I was just about to pick up some 62% humidipaks from Bovina, I was just wondering if anyone has used them and if they're worth it?


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## sunjunkiesurfer (May 28, 2013)

BurlingtonBam said:


> Has anyone used Humidipaks? I was just about to pick up some 62% humidipaks from Bovina, I was just wondering if anyone has used them and if they're worth it?


check back around page 2, the openers talked about it. I gathered it sped the drying too much and may give a false RH level. But I didn't follow much past that.


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## Herb Man (Jun 5, 2013)

grimeygreasy said:


> I'm assuming for those people who have a larger amount of product, that the same procedure would apply but with a larger vessel (rubbermaid, garbage bag etc). One thing that wasn't mentioned in the OP was an approximate start to finish timeline (obviously this will vary some) for this method. How long do you spend on racks before everything is ready to start the curing process?


 I take mine down from the rack in 3-5 days 4 days on average, dependant on the feel of the bud.

Once it feels dry/kinda hard I put in into curing jars, seal them with a hydrometer in there with the bud and leave them for an hour, then check the humidity.

I then burp accordingly until it's in the curing zone.

I then leave them to cure.


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## BA142 (Jun 8, 2013)

I'm on my 5th harvest using this method and I love it. It's pretty much trained me to identify how crisp/moist the bud is without even using a hygrometer. I still use one though just to take the guesswork out of the equation.


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## budbro18 (Jun 10, 2013)

I found something when i was looking for desiccants for drying my shrooms faster.

http://www.silicagelpackets.com/indicating-silica-gel-packets-and-indicator-cards/humidity-indicator-cards

These are indicator cards that tell you the humidity when its at certain points.

I feel like these would be helpful because theyre cheap and you could put in on the inside wall of the jar to read easily.

ill be buying some for my next batch since theyre only a few bucks a piece and the more you buy the cheaper they are.


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## TechnoMage (Jun 10, 2013)

budbro18 said:


> I found something when i was looking for desiccants for drying my shrooms faster.
> 
> http://www.silicagelpackets.com/indicating-silica-gel-packets-and-indicator-cards/humidity-indicator-cards
> 
> ...


Not sure how much help that would be since they max out at 60% which is right about where I want to lock my RH at. Too bad they don't come in a 40%-80% range.


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## budbro18 (Jun 11, 2013)

damn i feel it. i like mine on the lower end of 40% for curing but thats mostly because my strain has really fat stems. I like putting my shit in plastic containers that aren't super air tight. mostly but the lid may have a little play in it. That way i dont really have to burp them. Just let em sit for a few days and the humidity moves its way out. Ill rotate the buds from the top of the container with the ones on the bottom after a few days. 

The grape god i used to run was the best when it came to that because it had nice rock hard buds with super thin stems. Id have to tie it up when it would get to the last few weeks of flower because of this but drying and curing went by a little faster with less burping.


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## growone (Jun 11, 2013)

love the curing card idea, that could be sweet if it did come in a higher humidty range
i had thought of this from some old chemistry set lessons back in the day, there were some chemicals soaked in paper whose color indicated humidity levels


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## Weedgypsy (Jun 15, 2013)

Great thread


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## guy incognito (Jun 18, 2013)

budbro18 said:


> I found something when i was looking for desiccants for drying my shrooms faster.
> 
> http://www.silicagelpackets.com/indicating-silica-gel-packets-and-indicator-cards/humidity-indicator-cards
> 
> ...


I think you will be better off just purchasing the recommended hygrometer. They are only like $20 a piece and they work great. Seriously, just bite the bullet and buy as many caliber IV as you need. You will be kicking yourself if you have even a single jar come out subpar during the cure process. A single mason jar getting ruined from mold or getting dried way too fast and there goes the cost of 10 cailber IVs.

I have 6 and use large jars that can hold about 4 dry ounces. So for $120 I have 6 accurate hygrometers and can cure up to 24 ounces at a time, and I can scale up for a minimal cost. The peace of mind alone is worth the price imo. No mold and no uncured dry weed is also worth it.


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## HappyMan420 (Jun 19, 2013)

light degrades the color, the aroma will sometimes go away and return once the curing is complete. opening the jar too often will decrease the aroma sometimes. try using a new kind of cure jar if the problem isn't solved with these tips.

-HM420


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## brownEs (Jul 2, 2013)

so its as simple as popping in a hyometer in a jar along with your greenery, burp every day til you hit *55-60% RH *then its ready to puff??


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## Vincent VonBlown (Jul 2, 2013)

obijohn said:


> Ive done this for several years this way. I air out the jars so they aren't moist long term, and it smooths out the smoke. But after several months the buds all turn brown. And, I don't have that sweet skunky smell, usually little smell at all. The potency is good, but why can't I keep the nice aroma and greenish color?


The longer you keep your bud moist (in the cure zone) the more potent it will tend to get. But at the cost of flavor, so it's a trade off for what you want. If your looking for more flavor, a quicker drying time, if you want it more potent then the reverse.


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## Sir Stanky (Jul 5, 2013)

howdy everyone! I found these chinese hygrometers on ebay for cheap and they actually measure as accurately as my caliber hygrometer for a fraction of the cost and they are much smaller in size as well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300897496976?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


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## dannyboy602 (Jul 5, 2013)

Sir Stanky said:


> howdy everyone! I found these chinese hygrometers on ebay for cheap and they actually measure as accurately as my caliber hygrometer for a fraction of the cost and they are much smaller in size as well.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/300897496976?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


i have used these also and they claim to be accurate +/- 5 degrees. Cal 3's are accurate within 1 or 2 degrees. Although I was always skeptical of the claim because they're all made in China. So I kept several cal three's on hand and many of the little ones pictured here. They all read within several degrees of each other. So think its really better to keep at least a few cal three's on hand. For me it was like an insurance policy. Better to be safe than sorry.


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## Impman (Jul 5, 2013)

Have any of you tried curing in the sun? put one little nug in the sun to dry on a sheet. when it is dry put it a bag, and then take a nug of your 'everytime perfect cured magic weed' and put that in a bag. Have a friend take the bags while your not looking label them and give yourself a blind taste test. blind folded or just have the friend pack a bowl. IF YOU CAN TELL THE DIFFERANCE ILL BE DAMNED. You cant tell the, these curing techs are the silliest thing about this fake marijuana science. these grow shops are taking all you poor boobs for a ride


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## qwizoking (Jul 5, 2013)

Wow you really are just a troll...... damn Ive never said that before.. kinda feel like an internet geek or some shit now


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## brownEs (Jul 5, 2013)

If you use a "cheap" hygrowmeter. You can put inside a sealable container or zip lock bag along with 1/2 cup of table salt and 1/4 cup of water mixed). Wait about 6 hours. The reading should be 75%. 

Its its off .lets say its reads 80%, just remember to subtract 5% when ever your taking a reading.


----------



## Sunbiz1 (Jul 5, 2013)

brownEs said:


> so its as simple as popping in a hyometer in a jar along with your greenery, burp every day til you hit *55-60% RH *then its ready to puff??


Yes and no, this whole method has to be dialed-in on...at least that has been my experience.

At times, I've had to completely remove product from jar overnight. But I'd rather go slow and do it right as opposed to killing the cure process by overdrying.


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## oldfogey8 (Jul 12, 2013)

i am trying this cure method now with some greenhouse seeds thai. i have been in the 61-65% range for about a month now. it seems to be going very slowly to me. i started taking the buds out of my mason jars and letting them sit in an air conditioned room for a couple of hours(we are in a really hot and humid weather pattern right now) or they would still be right around 65% i think. burping wasn't doing anything. the taste is getting nicer and it has started to burn a lot nicer in a joint. i know slow is the key here but is this going too slowly? any suggestions for speeding things up or will i wind up f'ing things up by speeding things up? thx.


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## Sheesh420 (Jul 12, 2013)

Awesome post.


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## socaljoe (Jul 12, 2013)

brownEs said:


> If you use a "cheap" hygrowmeter. You can put inside a sealable container or zip lock bag along with 1/2 cup of table salt and 1/4 cup of water mixed). Wait about 6 hours. The reading should be 75%.
> 
> Its its off .lets say its reads 80%, just remember to subtract 5% when ever your taking a reading.


You don't even need that much salt to calibrate. I've done this many times with my hygrometers that I keep for measuring my cigar humidor. All you really need is a soda cap full of salt and enough water to make a thick paste, you don't want it soupy.


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## propertyoftheUS (Jul 14, 2013)

Why make a paste with salt and water? Am i missing a scientific backed reason for this concoction? Ive always just wetted and wrung out a paper towel, placed it in a ziplock with my hygrometer and in about 2-3 mins it should read 99%


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## growone (Jul 14, 2013)

the salt test is a 'standard' way of calibrating hygrometers, been around a long time
my caliber 3 intructions advised against this test, possible damage?
that may have changed in new 4's


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## brownEs (Jul 14, 2013)

There's 100 ways to skin a cat..


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## Julius Caesar (Jul 16, 2013)

Impman said:


> Have any of you tried curing in the sun? put one little nug in the sun to dry on a sheet. when it is dry put it a bag, and then take a nug of your 'everytime perfect cured magic weed' and put that in a bag. Have a friend take the bags while your not looking label them and give yourself a blind taste test. blind folded or just have the friend pack a bowl. IF YOU CAN TELL THE DIFFERANCE ILL BE DAMNED. You cant tell the, these curing techs are the silliest thing about this fake marijuana science. these grow shops are taking all you poor boobs for a ride


We are not drying raisins.


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## Medicgray (Jul 18, 2013)

Lazy mans way- get it to where the stems snap. Then seal it up in a mason jar with a 62% humidipak. Theyre not that expensive. It's that easy.


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## ant88 (Jul 24, 2013)

hear alot on humidity but whats a decent temperature for drying?


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## brownEs (Jul 27, 2013)

kayameday said:


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&#12496;&#12483;&#12464; &#12456;&#12523;&#12513;&#12473; &#12496;&#12540;&#12461;&#12531;


That's what I was thinking


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## Blaze31 (Jul 28, 2013)

SimonD said:


> Heh, it's as if folks would rater argue than grow lots of bud. When I started out, I identified a number of growers I wanted to learn from, shut my mouth and listened for a hell of a long time, while putting in the hours in my own garden. Here, the less experience you have, the louder you are. No thanks.
> 
> Simon



So true. I'm going to try your way this year so ill let ya know the out come. I didn't cure the right way last year cuz it ended to dry for my like. It had a good smell and taste but burnt fast so I'm giving this a shot this year it's my 3ed year growing and it's getting better each year. Purple haze- ak and bubble gum this year.. I'm trying the clone thing also but got them from a friend so not sure what they are. There some beauty's tho.


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## Blaze31 (Jul 31, 2013)

I don't know if I'm going to have enough glass jars this year is there anything I can use besides them?


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## Usernamewastaken (Jul 31, 2013)

a perfect cure everytime with little to no effort is found in the Boveda 62% rh packs.... 

No burping, checking etc


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## Pcinla (Aug 2, 2013)

After reading _all _22 pages to this point, I have a question for Simon or any grower who has a lot of experience with this curing method. How important is it, or does it matter at all, that you keep the buds attached to the stem until you're ready to seal the jar up long-term? The reason I ask: I trimmed two plants last night that had been hanging to dry (fully intact) for five days. I trimmed off all the sugar leaf, cut the buds from the stems and put the buds for smoking in one jar to cure, and the popcorn buds and trim in another jar for cannabutter material. The humidity level in the jars when I got up today -- yes, I bought a Caliber IV just for this -- was 64%. So far, so good, although based on that reading maybe I should have trimmed and jarred the material a day or so earlier. I'm wondering, however, if I screwed up by cutting the buds from the stems. I mean if curing is, in essence, the process of water and the chemicals within the plant changing, and -- I'm assuming here -- moving to a deprived area such as the drying flowers, did I short-circuit that process by removing the buds from the stems?


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## LightTheBeast (Aug 7, 2013)

If the the rh stays at 64 your sweet, if they were to dry then hopefully the stems should re-moisture to bring it back from almost losing it. only the existing moisture in the buds or stem, presumably works at curing the bud, outside moisture does nothing. Down to the enzymes i would imagine.


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## qwizoking (Aug 7, 2013)

I don't understand that concept. Y'all talk about a cure like your decarbing, once the carboxyl group is broken by removal of co2 or h2o it won't reform that chain by adding moisture again. But if this were true to a cure when the outside of the bud drops below the supposed threshold of 55% or whatever you say why does it continue to cure when rehydrated by internal moisture.........


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## Blaze31 (Aug 8, 2013)

I don't think it can. But that is what its saying


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## LightTheBeast (Aug 10, 2013)

Perhaps the enzymes are still present.


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## ThorGanjason (Aug 11, 2013)

Question--if I were trying to save money the first time around, could I use 1 hygrometer and a huge jar/ air right container?

I have ten plants flowering my first time through, I'm hoping to get at least 8-10 ounces.


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## growone (Aug 11, 2013)

you can swap the hygrometer around some smaller jars
as long as the buds are equally distributed, most jars should be pretty close in humidity
you could do the large jar/container, i do see posts of it being done
but i'd think smaller jars would be easier for the 1st time use of this method


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## ThorGanjason (Aug 12, 2013)

Cool, thanks man. So opening the jars for a second doesn't mess anything up with this method, I don't guess? I've heard that opening the jars (even just for a sec) can throw it off, BC all of the air is exchanged in that moment. So opening the jars and switching the hygrometer around wouldn't screw it up?


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## growone (Aug 12, 2013)

you need to open the jars from time to time
one reason is to lower the humidity(if needed)
the other is to release certain gases that build up during the early cure
those gases will cause grief if not regularly released
after a month or 2, and that will vary by experience, you'll get to a point where jar openings aren't needed


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## Jimmyjonestoo (Aug 19, 2013)

Whats the best way to cure a very large amount? Like a multi pound outdoor grow. Im tired of burping so many jars. I would think a bucket would be no good as its made of plastic correct?


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## qwizoking (Aug 19, 2013)

In my opinion you shouldn't have to burp, if so it was still slightly too wet to jar......but anyway, you can get 1 gallon glass jars but they are like 10 bucks....you don't want plastic, its slightly permeable and will absorb thc and seems to support mold growth


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## chorse11 (Aug 20, 2013)

Just finished a small grow of 4 after 48hrs of darkness. 2 and 2 of Northern Lights and Master Kush. Currently in the drying process. Using a 15gl box fitted with carbon filter with fan/exhaust. Put them in 48 hrs of darkerness prior to trim. One was in 33hrs of darkness prior to trim after peaking earlier than expected. It was placed within box unplugged. It's been in the box for 45hrs total with12hrs unplugged. The other 3 were finished the following evening and are at 33hrs with the box plugged. 

Curious as to advice during the drying/cure process. Mainly when should I expect to remove from box to jar. 
I have everything necessary to do an accurate cure.
Also, thinking of adding lemon, orange, and lime. Currently have all materials to do so. 

All constructive and experienced advice is welcome. Thanx in the future.




8-$


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## openhorizon (Aug 26, 2013)

nice guide


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## TechnoMage (Aug 30, 2013)

chorse11 said:


> Just finished a small grow of 4 after 48hrs of darkness. 2 and 2 of Northern Lights and Master Kush. Currently in the drying process. Using a 15gl box fitted with carbon filter with fan/exhaust. Put them in 48 hrs of darkerness prior to trim. One was in 33hrs of darkness prior to trim after peaking earlier than expected. It was placed within box unplugged. It's been in the box for 45hrs total with12hrs unplugged. The other 3 were finished the following evening and are at 33hrs with the box plugged.
> 
> Curious as to advice during the drying/cure process. Mainly when should I expect to remove from box to jar.
> I have everything necessary to do an accurate cure.
> ...


First off, everything depends on your drying conditions. High/Low humidity/temps can really affect things. My house usually sits around 35-40% humidity and 72 degrees. 

I dry on a rack for a couple of days, then do another couple of days in paper bags. Once my hygrometer is registering below 62% in the paper bags, I transfer to 1 gallon glass jars. Then I slowly work it down to 60%. I'll leave the jar sealed for 24 hours, take a reading and then will open the jars to let things dry out some more. How long I leave the jars open depends on what the reading is before I open the jar.

When I hit 61-62% in the jars I'll start leaving the jar sealed for a few days at a time before burping briefly. Once it hits 60%, I'll leave the jar sealed for about a month to cure, then I vacuum seal.


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## DemonTrich (Sep 4, 2013)

excellent thread!!!!!! just chopped on Monday and waiting for it to dry enough to jar. I chopped 7 plants/3 strains and have 12 1/2 gallon mason jars and 12 hygrometers to go inside. my basement is 50-60% rh and 72-75*, that's where I have the branches hung up and where I grow. I also have a box fan 15' away for air circulation. i have a few questions about the jar curing. i have 20 62% medium brovida (sp) packs. after i jar when the buds are dry on the outside and the stems bend and snap, do i put the brovida 62% packs in or should i wait until the rh in the jars stabilize about 64%? this is my first grow and first time curing, so i want to make sure i have the basics down. 

thanks


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## Sir Stanky (Sep 4, 2013)

^ personally, I would get the humidity in the low 60's first and then use the humidipacs to keep it in the cure zone. I also vacuum seal after a month in the jar as a previous post mentioned. The humidipacs get used for the next harvest after the previous harvest gets sealed up.


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## DemonTrich (Sep 9, 2013)

I have some jars in the range of 61 to 65%. should those jars be burped for a few hrs daily to bring down the rh to 60% and under or keep them sealed up? the instructions on the 1st post didn't specify what to do in that range. 8 of 13 jars are in this % range. 

thanks and once again this thread is awesome!!!!!


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## TechnoMage (Sep 9, 2013)

The reason I like to hit 60% is I want the moisture really low but able 55% where curing starts. I often have jars vacuumed sealed for years at a time and I don't want to worry about mold.


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## Blaze31 (Sep 10, 2013)

TechnoMage said:


> First off, everything depends on your drying conditions. High/Low humidity/temps can really affect things. My house usually sits around 35-40% humidity and 72 degrees.
> 
> I dry on a rack for a couple of days, then do another couple of days in paper bags. Once my hygrometer is registering below 62% in the paper bags, I transfer to 1 gallon glass jars. Then I slowly work it down to 60%. I'll leave the jar sealed for 24 hours, take a reading and then will open the jars to let things dry out some more. How long I leave the jars open depends on what the reading is before I open the jar.
> 
> When I hit 61-62% in the jars I'll start leaving the jar sealed for a few days at a time before burping briefly. Once it hits 60%, I'll leave the jar sealed for about a month to cure, then I vacuum seal.





TechnoMage said:


> The reason I like to hit 60% is I want the moisture really low but able 55% where curing starts. I often have jars vacuumed sealed for years at a time and I don't want to worry about mold.


I hope one day I can have it sitting around for years lol. I'm getting bigger slowly and that's where it starts from..


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## edyah (Sep 11, 2013)

got some neon green buds at 64% in a gallon jar....this method is hot....going to burp this evening and bring the jar h% down to around 61%....

I hung the plant for 3 days...bagged in brown paper bag for one day, then into the jar....

last harvest was a night mare in reguard to curing....with 5 calabier III's I'm not stressing as much

props simon. I have ID you as one to learn from. Halleluyah for the work


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## wvblazin (Sep 15, 2013)

definitely coming in handy. thanks a lot!


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## jjoe75 (Sep 22, 2013)

Local grocery chain has 96 oz jars of pickles for 3.50... seems like a good deal for large jars, even better if you love pickles! I am going to pick up a couple. 3 jars for 10$ people dont can foods around me so fresh mason jars have to be ordered.


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## jjoe75 (Sep 23, 2013)

Does anyone have pics of the same strain cured vs uncured? Would like to see the difference from a bag appeal perspective.


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## Sunbiz1 (Sep 23, 2013)

jjoe75 said:


> Local grocery chain has 96 oz jars of pickles for 3.50... seems like a good deal for large jars, even better if you love pickles! I am going to pick up a couple. 3 jars for 10$ people dont can foods around me so fresh mason jars have to be ordered.


We have canning jars galore for sale here, but that 96 oz pickle jar is still cheaper than the $5 I just paid for Ball half gallon size canning.

Great idea w/the pickles!


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## Sunbiz1 (Sep 23, 2013)

jjoe75 said:


> Does anyone have pics of the same strain cured vs uncured? Would like to see the difference from a bag appeal perspective.


I could dig some up, not much point though b/c curing doesn't really change appearance...only smell/taste.


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## DemonTrich (Sep 23, 2013)

all 10 of my 1/2 gallon jars (been curing since 9/7) smell awesome when opened. I wish I could medicate on smell alone. lol


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## jjoe75 (Sep 23, 2013)

I was just curious as I have never cured anything before, just hung and dried. I read that some turn brown or lose alot of green when cured. Although smell and taste are tops it is always nice to have beautiful green sugar coated buds to admire!


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## TechnoMage (Sep 23, 2013)

I've got some photos of 2 year old weed in a thread I started. https://www.rollitup.org/harvesting-curing/249160-smoke-report-2-years-storage.html


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## GreyLord (Sep 27, 2013)

jjoe75 said:


> I was just curious as I have never cured anything before, just hung and dried. I read that some turn brown or lose alot of green when cured. Although smell and taste are tops it is always nice to have beautiful green sugar coated buds to admire!


It depends on the strain jjoe. Some dry green, brown, red, blue, purple, almost black, to varying hues [I haven't seen the last 3 personally but so I'm told]
To be honest, after storing pot for a long while I couldn't care if it looked like something the dog coughed up as long as it still had the desired affect


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## oldfogey8 (Sep 28, 2013)

i am on my third month using this method on some greenhouse thai that i either didn't flush long enough or just plain gave too many nutes to during it's lifetime. tasted lousy at first though it kicked like a mule. after 3 months it is starting to get that thai taste(yippeeee!) and it now kicks like an elephant. aweome thread. thanks!


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## jjoe75 (Sep 29, 2013)

Just to let everyone know. Walmart has 80 oz jars of pickles for 3.50$ nice jars for curing I think.


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## DemonTrich (Sep 30, 2013)

walmart also has a case (6) of 1/2 gallon mason jars for 14.98.


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## qwizoking (Sep 30, 2013)

I wonder how hard the pickle smell is to remove...?


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## jjoe75 (Sep 30, 2013)

To answer both post above mine. Walmarts in the central florida area do not stock bigger mason jars so they would have to be ordered. And for the pickle smell, they are glass so the jar itself is odorless. For the lid, drop it in a boiling pot of water and no more smell. Dishwasher will do about the same thing.


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## GreyLord (Oct 2, 2013)

I'm about to harvest my WW x Amnesia. What is the best time of the light cycle to harvest? Is there one?


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## qwizoking (Oct 2, 2013)

Morning or if you can wait and are able 2 days or so in the dark will allow trichome heads that haven't finished producing to do so and prevent the already done heads from degrading...


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## GreyLord (Oct 2, 2013)

No can do the dark thing, I have a WW days behind & an unknown 3-4 weeks away [supposed to be a BlackSugar mother but turned. Obviously an auto]

Morning? Just before the lights come on? After the lights come on? When?


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## qwizoking (Oct 2, 2013)

Before the lights come on or before the sun rises...


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## jjoe75 (Oct 2, 2013)

Put the other ones outside. Sunlight will continue the flowering cycle, maybe the cold will bring out some extra color! Or you could move the 2 ready plants to a different dark area. Just thinking out loud again lol.


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## GreyLord (Oct 4, 2013)

jjoe75 said:


> Put the other ones outside. Sunlight will continue the flowering cycle, maybe the cold will bring out some extra color! Or you could move the 2 ready plants to a different dark area. Just thinking out loud again lol.


I'm running a stealth set-up so outside is out of the question. Changing conditions on a plant isn't worth the risk.
What I need is two tents. I'm learning how to 'chuck pollen'  to grow seeds so I'll soon need 3 tents. Then I want.............................haha.

P.S. I harvested just before lights on & she's now hanging in the dark


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## GreyLord (Oct 14, 2013)

If anyone's interested - the White Widow x Amnesia is one of the best smokes I've had for a while. Beautifully smell, taste & high.


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## brownEs (Oct 14, 2013)

GreyLord said:


> If anyone's interested - the White Widow x Amnesia is one of the best smokes I've had for a while. Beautifully smell, taste & high.


From where?


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## GreyLord (Oct 15, 2013)

Ah sorry brownEs, I realised after I bought them that I should be keeping a journal of sorts including breeders name. Sea of seeds has a new ordering system so all details of past purchases are deleted. A search on SoS page turns up no WW x A at all last time I looked.


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## 100Lights (Oct 18, 2013)

Intersting method, we have just stuck to extra large paper bids for years... But then again were curing 100's of Ps at a time...


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## GreyLord (Oct 19, 2013)

Bit hard to cure hundreds of pounds in jars. [You did mean hundreds of pounds, yes?] I couldn't even imagine manicuring that much pot.


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## SimonD (Oct 19, 2013)

GreyLord said:


> *Bit hard to cure hundreds of pounds in jars.* [You did mean hundreds of pounds, yes?] I couldn't even imagine manicuring that much pot.


There are always food-grade containers than can be had as big as a barrel. 

Good to see the thread is going well. Good luck to all.

Simon


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## SimonD (Oct 20, 2013)

Just read a PM from a grower who took the time to translate the tutorial into German, as a way of allowing German speakers to be exposed to the material. That's truly very cool.

Simon


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## GreyLord (Oct 21, 2013)

So this method works regardless of size of container? Pretty cool. After first reading this thread, I purchased a dozen food preservative jars with the clip lock lids, of various heights & have had excellent results & my buds are still improving. I'll be curing all my buds this way from now on. Thanks


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## bird mcbride (Oct 21, 2013)

The perfect cure starts by stripping the fans be fore you chop and do a 24h RO water flush with the roots off. I would never just chop and dry. We did twenty outside plants last week and it taste and smells like kush. They sucked up two gallons of RO water.


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## crawleyweedfarmer (Oct 25, 2013)

Hi guys i just started to open the jar twice a week and it smell and tastes poor it was good b4 WTF


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## SimonD (Oct 25, 2013)

crawleyweedfarmer said:


> Hi guys i just started to open the jar twice a week and it smell and tastes poor it was good b4 WTF


If you take a little time to compose a cogent post that includes all information relevant to your question, I'm sure that folks would be happy to help. Good luck.

Simon


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## crawleyweedfarmer (Oct 25, 2013)

when i put buds in jar they smell like grass. i open the jar twice a day for a week then once a day for 2weeks then twice a week. after the first week it smelled and tasted great but when i got to open it twice a week it was smelling like grass


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## bird mcbride (Oct 25, 2013)

GreyLord said:


> Bit hard to cure hundreds of pounds in jars. [You did mean hundreds of pounds, yes?] I couldn't even imagine manicuring that much pot.


We don't do hundred of lbs all at once but with large amounts we resort to beer coolers lined with brown paper.


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## SimonD (Oct 25, 2013)

crawleyweedfarmer said:


> when i put buds in jar they smell like grass. i open the jar twice a day for a week then once a day for 2weeks then twice a week. after the first week it smelled and tasted great but when i got to open it twice a week it was smelling like grass


This thread is about using a hygrometer to gauge the state of the cure; hence, allowing for the process to take place. It doesn't sound like that's what you're doing. Read the original post.

Intuitively, it sounds like the product may be too dry.

Simon


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## PaulN'Chuck (Oct 29, 2013)

Can somebody accurately break down what CURING is? How does keeping a majority of moisture in the buds allow for proper breaking down of chlorophyll? How does the change happen without a proper drying? 
Someone please explain with some scientific explanation. Or at least a detailed theory.. I cant say this isnt correct but I would like some type of explanation as to how this is considered the "perfect" cure, when Im not sure it is. Mind you Im no expert, just confused 
For all of you waiting to troll out, provide me with a decent explanation and Ill apologize.. Again! For those of you I offend-- Im not talking to you! Just asking a question. Cuz Ive read 28 pages of this and still dont see the facts.


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## SimonD (Oct 29, 2013)

PaulN'Chuck said:


> Can somebody accurately break down what CURING is?


Excuse me, you ask this question and then act adversarially solely due to your own ignorance? Someone remind me why I come here.



> How does keeping a majority of moisture in the buds allow for proper breaking down of chlorophyll? How does the change happen without a proper drying?
> Someone please explain with some scientific explanation. Or at least a detailed theory.. I cant say this isnt correct but I would like some type of explanation as to how this is considered the "perfect" cure, when Im not sure it is. Mind you Im no expert, just confused
> For all of you waiting to troll out, provide me with a decent explanation and Ill apologize.. Again! For those of you I offend-- Im not talking to you! Just asking a question. Cuz Ive read 28 pages of this and still dont see the facts.


This is called a Perfect Cure, because it's extremely difficult to screw up if the directions are followed. As for a scientific explanation, several have been offered, but none by me. Just don't care to take the time. It took over 7 years to perfect the process, thousands of real growers all over the world follow the methodology, and you'll have to forgive me for not being able to distill it into a few paragraphs just so some troll can argue about it ad nauseam. Search if you like to hear to science talk - there's a botanist on board who posted plenty about this - or don't do this at all. Your choice; it's not as if anyone really cares how you cure, especially me. 

Simon


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## PaulN'Chuck (Oct 29, 2013)

Oh dont be offended, I mean no harm. I was just hoping you could hit me with an explanation as to why, thats all. I just wanna know how/why it happens. Im not attacking you sir, calm yourself.


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## xhippy (Oct 31, 2013)

The little dehumidifier in my drying tent did a great job during the humid summer months. Should have been paying attention and not used it when the humidity went down and as a consequence I overdried my buds. What can I do to save them, or did I ruin it for good? It's jarred now, can I just leave the tops off? Put an apple slice in there? Any help appreciated.


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## DemonTrich (Oct 31, 2013)

try tossing in a 62% brovida(sp) humidity pack. it might help to get some moisture back in the buds. but im not 100% sure. back in the day we used to put a small piece of lettuce in the bag, a piece of orange peel, chunk of bread, ect.


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## xhippy (Oct 31, 2013)

Thanks for the reply. I'll try a little piece of apple. I know that works for tobacco, so maybe?

Everything was going so well, and then I have had one boo-boo after another.


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## qwizoking (Oct 31, 2013)

Yea I was hoping to hear some facts about it too...
Its common knowledge among hash makers that your product cures in storage..terps cyclicize whether water is present or not
So moisture isn't going to help the flavor cure..maybe its that chlorophyll and sugars starches etc need moisture but I don't see why that would be the case either..

Oh well..seems the question just upset people


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## SimonD (Oct 31, 2013)

xhippy said:


> Thanks for the reply. I'll try a little piece of apple. I know that works for tobacco, so maybe?
> 
> Everything was going so well, and then I have had one boo-boo after another.


I'd suggest leaving the jars sealed. Hopefully, in time, whatever moisture if left in the stems will redistribute itself. A hygrometer really helps to gauge the state of the product. Good luck.

Simon


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## SimonD (Oct 31, 2013)

qwizoking said:


> Yea I was hoping to hear some facts about it too...
> Its common knowledge among hash makers that your product cures in storage..terps cyclicize whether water is present or not
> So moisture isn't going to help the flavor cure..maybe its that chlorophyll and sugars starches etc need moisture but I don't see why that would be the case either..
> 
> Oh well..seems the question just upset people


Trichs don't cure; they dry. As hash is the topic of interest, please post to a thread dealing with that subject.

I'd be happy to discuss this with you further, once you actually grow and harvest some bud, and then try to cure it. Until then....

Simon


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## qwizoking (Oct 31, 2013)

I have plenty of pics up and been doing this for a bit over a decade....

Trichs do cure, terpenes become terpenoids and are cyclicized changing aroma becoming more robust and losing that perfume even soapy taste some fresh herb or hash can have, it becomes stronger having a lower ppm sensory threshold......do they lose chlorophyll? No or starches or nitrates etc? No but that's not all the cure is about

You have a real attitude issue..you won't answer our question and attempt to put us down?


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## Sand4x105 (Oct 31, 2013)

Thanks for the thread ...
Well, it's called the perfect cure, because, every time, if you cure your pot to 62% RH it will be perfect...
Tried it, it worked, that is enough for me... 
I do not care how, the science of the perfect cure... because it's too simple ....
So simple that those would doubt the validity, because how can anything be called or be perfect ?
Don't care... it works....
Perfect.... 
Have a good day !


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## SimonD (Oct 31, 2013)

qwizoking said:


> I have plenty of pics up and been doing this for a bit over a decade....


That must explain why you have to buy weed. Please feel free to start a thread and post the pictures you claim to have, long with a marker that identifies them as your own. Until then... keep trolling, I guess.



> *Trichs do cure*, terpenes become terpenoids and are cyclicized changing aroma becoming more robust and losing that perfume even soapy taste some fresh herb or hash can have, it becomes stronger having a lower ppm sensory threshold......do they lose chlorophyll? No or starches or nitrates etc? No but that's not all the cure is aboutYou have a real attitude issue..you won't answer our question and attempt to put us down?


You obviously know better. Good bye.


Simon


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## qwizoking (Oct 31, 2013)

Lol yea I guess all the pics I've put up that don't pull a match on Google were someone else's..why are you trying to act like you know me ..the only conversation we've ever had resulted in your deleted posts and a closed thread..hint none of mine deleted...I never told you I bought weed lol..what kinda shit you spoutin over here?
Well ima out..was just looking for some sort of reasoning behind the moisture percentage and why moisture is needed at that level..if you don't know which seems to be the case that's fine..I never said by following this method you wouldn't end up with a good product...if that satisfies you fine..but I want to understand the processes at hand and if you can't help me do that I'll be gone...the cure works great that's not what I'm saying..and you shouldn't take such offense simply from two people (unrelated an I apologize for bringing him in) just trying to understand


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## SimonD (Oct 31, 2013)

qwizoking said:


> ...I never told you I bought weed lol..what kinda shit you spoutin over here?


https://www.rollitup.org/toke-n-talk/690506-unreliable-dealers.html

Your own words. This leaves just one question: are you just trolling or is it a matter of being a compulsive liar?

Simon


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## qwizoking (Oct 31, 2013)

Your point?
I said I never told YOU..so what your stalking me up now? Maybe you'll know then that I prefer to grow heavy Sativas and I often find good brick weed to grow out a dank sativa I couldn't otherwise acquire...
Seems your the one trolling....


And I like that all you can come back with is I don't grow or whatever and I'm trolling....you still haven't answered the original question....all I ever wanted


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## qwizoking (Oct 31, 2013)

So you won't answer our questions because for whatever reason you think I'm lying about growing? Like that should matter anyway..doesn't effect the answer any..and you gave no answer for me to dislike
whatever dude...dueces


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## Dogenzengi (Oct 31, 2013)

Hello Simon,

you started this thread and I am a tool guy so I love the idea of an actual measurement of humidity during curing.

Hygrometer in the jar sounds like a great idea.

As someone else stated a 5 gal. Bucket with a gamma seal top should work great.

I was thinking about drilling a small hole in the gamma lid to pass a probe thru 
from a hygrometer and then seal up around the chord with RTV, sound like a good Idea?

My first grow will probably fit in a 5 gal bucket with room to spare.


This thread is a bit confusing....

I chose my fall back Source to RIU for a possible single answer.

Google searched the subject and it showed me to Dinafem, they describe in detail dry and cure.

since they are a very reputable seed producer I would think they would not post bad info on there web page.

If they gave bad advice no one would buy there seeds, at least that's my train of thought.

https://www.dinafem.org/en/blog/drying-and-curing-of-fresh-cannabis-buds/#

I still have not decided other than to;
trim wet 
hang 7-10 days till stem "just snaps" not bend and crack and not snap and crumble.

control humidity in hanging area, I will use a dehumidifier in my tent with a small fan running for my hang.

I will cure in Jars, still not sure about how often to burp jars and for how long?

that is all I have figured out, I will research more breeders for info.

I do not have a set opinion as I am doing my first grow.

I live in the South East, the RH in my home with A/C running full time is 63%.


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## Dogenzengi (Oct 31, 2013)

http://www.amsterdammarijuanaseedbank.com/Growguides/general-marijuana-info/drying-curing-marijuana-buds.html

And this one is poorly written and worse than the thread that confused me.
I will post all I find not just the ones I like.


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## VTMi'kmaq (Oct 31, 2013)

I accidentally molded two sour diesel buds yesterday! yeah im ready for a new method that's redneck friendly.


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## Dogenzengi (Oct 31, 2013)

Found this tidbit at high times in an article, After the Harvest.

"Individual harvesting and drying of branches works faster than drying a whole cannabis plant. When a cannabis plant is harvested, the stomata on the surface of the leaves and calyxes will start closing off, allowing only small amounts of water vapor to escape. This forces the excess moisture stored within the stems/stalks to exit through the cuts you&#8217;ve made on them when harvesting. The fewer cuts for water vapor to exit through, the longer the drying time."

I believe That....


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## Dogenzengi (Oct 31, 2013)

http://www.hightimes.com/read/after-harvest


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## Dogenzengi (Oct 31, 2013)

This info was copied from THE MARIJUANA GROWER'S GUIDE by Mel Frank and Ed Rosenthal


Curing
Curing is a process employed to naturally enhance the bouquet, flavour, and texture of marijuana. Curing does not lower potency when done correctly, although poor curing methods often result in some less of THC.


Curing is not an essential procedure, and many growers prefer the &quot;natural&quot; flavour of uncured grass. Sweet sinsemilla buds usually are not cured.


Curing is most successful on plants which have &quot;ripened&quot; and are beginning to lose chlorophyll. It is less successful on growing tips and other vigorous parts which are immature. These parts may only lose some chlorophyll.


Curing proceeds while the leaf is still alive, for until it dries, many of the leaf's life processes continue. Since the leaf's ability to produce sugars is thwarted, it breaks down stored starch to simple sugars, which are used for food. This gives the grass a sweet or earthy aroma and taste. At the same time, many of the complex proteins and pigments, such as chlorophyll, are broken down in enzymatic processes. This changes the colour of the leaf from green to various shades of yellow, brown, tan, or red, depending primarily on the variety, but also on growing environment and cure technique. The destruction of chlorophyll eliminates the minty taste that is commonly associated with green homegrown.


There are several methods of curing, most of which were originally designed to cure large quantities of tobacco. Some of them can be modified by the home grower to use for small marijuana harvests as well as large harvests. The methods used to cure marijuana are the air, flue, sweat, sun, and water cures.


Air Curing
Air curing is a technique developed in the United States for curing pipe and cigar tobacco. It was originally done in specially constructed barns made with ventilator slats which could be sealed; a small shed or metal building can easily be adapted for this use. However, this method of curing works only when there is enough material to keep the air saturated with moisture.


Wires are strung across the barn, and the marijuana plants or plant parts are hung from them, using string, wire twists, or the crooks of branches. The plants material should be closely spaced, but there should be enough room between branches (a few inches) so that air circulates freely. The building is kept unventilated until all the material loses some chlorophyll (green colour). This loss occurs rapidly during warm sunny weather because heat builds up, which hastens the cure. In wet or overcast weather, the temperature in the chamber will be cooler, and the process will proceed more slowly. If these conditions last for more than a day or two, unwanted mould may grow on the plants. The best way to prevent mould from forming is to raise the temperature to 90F by using a heater.


After the leaves have lost their deep green and become pale, the ventilator or windows are opened slightly, so that the temperature and humidity are lowered and the curing process is slowed. The process then continues until all traces of chlorophyll are eliminated. The entire process may take six weeks. Then the ventilators are opened, and an exhaust fan installed if necessary, to dry the material to the point that it can be smoked but still is moist, that is, bends rather than crumbles or powders when rubbed between thumb and forefinger.


Flue Curing
Flue curing differs from air curing in that the process is speeded up by using an external source of heat, and the air circulation is more closely regulated. This method can be used with small quantities of material in a small, airtight curing box constructed for the purpose. Large quantities can be hung in a room or barn as described in Air Curing.


A simple way to control the temperature when curing or drying small amounts of marijuana is to place the material to be cured in a watertight box (or a bottle) with ventilation holes on the top. Place the box in a water-filled container, such as a pot, fish-tank, or bathtub. The curing box contains air and will float. The water surrounding the box is maintained at the correct temperature by means of a stove or hotplate, fish-tank or water-bed heater, or any inexpensive immersible heater. Temperature of the water is monitored.


With the marijuana loosely packed, maintain water temperature at 90 degrees. After several days, the green tissue turns a pale yellow-green or murky colour, indicating yellow or brown pigments. Then increase temperature, to about 100 degrees, until all traces of green disappear. Raise the temperature once again, this time to 115 degrees, until a full, ripe colour develops. Also increase ventilation at this time, so that the marijuana dries. Plants dried at high temperature tend to be brittle; so lower the temperature before drying is completed. This last phase of drying can be done at room temperature, out of the water bath. The whole process takes a week or less.


Marijuana cured by this technique turns a deep brown colour. Immature material may retain some chlorophyll and have a slight greenish cast. Taste is rich yet mild.


Sweat Curing
Sweat curing is the technique most widely used in Colombia. Long branches containing colas are layered in piles about 18 inches high and a minimum of two feet square, more often about ten by fifteen feet. Sweat curing actually incorporates the fermenting process. Within a few hours the leaves begin to heat up from the microbial action in the same way that a compost pile ferments. Then change in colour is very rapid; watch the pile carefully, so that it does not overheat and rot the colas. Each day unpack the piles, and remove the colas that have turned colour. Within four or five days, all the colas will have turned colour. They are then dried. One way to prevent rot while using this method is to place cotton sheets, rags, or paper towels between each double layer of colas. The towels absorb some of the moisture and slow down the process.


Sweat curing can be modified for use with as little marijuana as two large plants. Pack the marijuana tightly in a heavy paper sack (or several layers of paper bags), and place it in the sun. The light is converted to heat and helps support the sweat.


Another variation of the sweat process occurs when fresh undried marijuana is bricked. The bricks are placed in piles, and they cure while being transported.


A simple procedure for a slow sweat cure is to roll fresh marijuana in plastic bags. Each week, open the bag for about an hour to evaporate some water. In about six weeks, the ammonia smell will dissipate somewhat, and the grass should be dried. This cure works well with small quantities of mediocre grass, since it concentrates the material.


Sun Curing
A quick way to cure small quantities of marijuana os to loosely fill a plastic bag or glass jar, or place a layer between glass or plastic sheets, and expose the material to the sun. Within a few hours the sun begins to bleach it. Turn the marijuana every few hours, so that all parts are exposed to the sun. An even cure is achieved in one to two days {(see Plate 16)}. Some degradation of THC may occur using this method.


Water Cure
Unlike other curing methods, the water cure is performed after the marijuana is dried. Powder and small pieces are most often used, but the cure also works with whole colas. The material is piled loosely in a glass or ceramic pot which is filled with luke-warm water. (When hot water is used, some of the THC is released in oils, which escape and float to the top of the water.) Within a few hours many of the non-psychoactive water-soluble substances dissolve. An occasional gentle stirring speeds the process. The water is changed and the process repeated. Then the grass is dried again for smoking.


THC is not water-soluble; so it remains on the plant when it is soaked. By eliminating water-soluble substances (pigments, proteins, sugars, and some resins), which may make up 25 percent of the plant material by weight, this cure may increase the concentration of THC by up to a third.


Marijuana cured by this method has a dark, almost black colour, and looks twisted and curled, something like tea leaves. The water cure is frequently used to cure dried fan leaves and poor-quality grass.


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## SimonD (Oct 31, 2013)

I uploaded this thread to RIU at the request of the staff under the condition that no trolling would be tolerated. I posted the thread in hopes of helping others, but apparently it's become an excuse for non-growers and kids to take shots at those who excel in this field. I keep asking myself why I need this and the answer is always the same. 

Best of luck to all,
Simon


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## Dogenzengi (Oct 31, 2013)

High Times-
(I will be harvesting Colas, and letting the lower buds mature, following the first method described)

The final stage of cannabis growing &#8211; from cutting and trimming your branches to drying and curing your buds &#8211; determines the quality of the pot you produce. These easy-to-follow harvesting instructions will help lock in flavor and potency for the best smoke you&#8217;ve ever grown.

Text by MzJill 
Photos by MG Imaging

Cutting
Properly processing cannabis at harvest is a craft that must be mastered in order to enhance and preserve the psychoactive properties, taste and appearance of the finished product. Many talented growers neglect to implement some of the following techniques, resulting in buds that fail to reach their maximum potential.

Inadequate or poor handling after harvest is the biggest cause of mediocre or poor-quality cannabis. This problem is compounded by the fact that most growers feel their pot is better than everyone else&#8217;s. Try telling a grower friend that he or she could do a better job trimming and curing; this will usually result in the end of a friendship. However, a good trim and cure can mean the difference between green-tasting, hard-to-burn nugs and pleasurable, smooth, clean-burning dank buds.

There are two basic methods used by growers to harvest their cannabis: cola harvesting (cutting the buds from the branches individually) and harvesting the entire plant (cutting it off at the main stalk near the bottom). The majority of growers find individual cola harvesting to be superior, for several reasons.

Some cannabis strains exhibit varying finishing times on the same plant. For example, the top colas may ripen while lower branches are still developing. Tops can be removed to expose the lower branches to light, thus allowing the lower buds to ripen further.

Individual harvesting and drying of branches works faster than drying a whole cannabis plant. When a cannabis plant is harvested, the stomata on the surface of the leaves and calyxes will start closing off, allowing only small amounts of water vapor to escape. This forces the excess moisture stored within the stems/stalks to exit through the cuts you&#8217;ve made on them when harvesting. The fewer cuts for water vapor to exit through, the longer the drying time.

Trimming


For highest-quality results, it&#8217;s best to trim all excess leaves from the colas/buds upon harvest, while the foliage is still rigid and fully hydrated. It&#8217;s very important to remove as many leaves protruding from the bud as possible. These leaves still contain chlorophyll, which will adversely affect the taste of your finished product. Some growers prefer to let these leaves curl around the bud for the sake of appearance; however, they&#8217;re sacrificing the taste and smoothness of the smoke. 

Trimming is a tedious job and requires a great deal of patience, self-discipline and the proper supplies. It&#8217;s important to have a good pair of scissors (a $10 pair of hair-cutting shears will do the job perfectly). It&#8217;s nice to have a bowl or basket nearby for the shade leaves and a separate container for the sugar leaves (I like to separate them because I later use the sugar leaves for hash- and butter-making). A table, comfortable chairs and good lighting are also important for the trimming process. Try to sit up straight, set goals and take breaks; trimming a full crop can mean several days&#8217; worth of work, even for the experienced trimmer.

Drying


The drying process precedes the final harvesting stage of curing. Drying is simply the act of removing the excess water from the cannabis. Leave the buds on the stems and hang each individual branch on a string or hanger of some sort. It&#8217;s best to dry the buds in a place that has indirect lighting and adequate air circulation.

A fan is good to have in the room, but don&#8217;t point it directly at the hanging buds. Allow the buds to dry until they&#8217;re crisp on the outside and the stems are still pliable. Because the stems contain so much residual moisture, it&#8217;s best at this time to remove the buds and place them in a large bowl or on a screen or tray. Hanging and drying time will vary due to climate and humidity.

When buds dry slowly, it makes for a smoother cure. If buds are dried too quickly, a harsher smoke could result. With slowly dried buds, the humidity remains closer to the humidity inside the stomata. If cannabis is dried too rapidly, the &#8220;green&#8221; taste will remain in the finished product.

Drying times are usually from five to 10 days; it varies according to the temperature and type of heat in your home, as well as the ambient humidity, airflow and the density of your buds.

Curing 


Cannabis continues to cure after it&#8217;s harvested, while it&#8217;s drying and even after it&#8217;s put in a jar. Just like a fine wine or gourmet coffee beans, marijuana needs to be cured to achieve the rich, smooth, robust taste that lingers on your palate and in your brain. During the curing period, the cannabinoid acids go through the process of decarboxylation into the psychoactive cannabinoids, and the terpenes will isomerize to create new polyterpenes.

Just as with any other fruit, when cannabis is harvested, the fruit or bud isn&#8217;t dead; it continues to metabolize. Pick a tomato from your garden while it&#8217;s still partially green and set it on a windowsill; it&#8217;ll continue to ripen for days. The same is true of a fresh banana. As the banana ages, the peel will turn a darker yellow, and the fruit inside will become softer and have a sweeter flavor. The more robust flavors and tantalizing fragrances of cannabis begin to appear as the chlorophyll and other pigments break down.

When the small stems that remain under the buds are dry enough to snap, and the buds themselves are dry enough to smoke, it&#8217;s time to begin the final curing process. Make sure your cannabis is completely dry before putting it in a sealed jar or container. Sealing wet cannabis in a jar or container will result in mold, rendering the weed unsafe to smoke.

Use glass canning jars (i.e., Mason, Ball or Kerr) to cure and store your finished product. Freezer bags can also be used for storing cannabis, but glass is always preferred. Don&#8217;t store your cannabis in sandwich bags or anything made of a similar plastic; the buds will become too dry and lose potency.

It&#8217;s important to open the jars occasionally to let in oxygen needed for the curing process, as well as to allow gases built up from the curing process to escape. During the first three days of curing, I open the jars once a day. After that, open your jars twice a week for two weeks, then once more after the first month. At this point, the curing process is basically complete, but the buds will continue to mature and acquire more delicate flavors with time if stored properly. 

Store your jarred, cured cannabis in a cool, dark place to help slow the breakdown of the cannabinoids. Although cannabis needs oxygen through the metabolizing/curing stage, at this point oxygen will have an adverse effect on the already-cured cannabis, since it causes the breakdown of THC into CBN.

The implementation of the simple steps listed above will make your dank a legend among your friends. Imagine their surprise when you break out some buds from a three-year-old harvest and they smoke and taste better than ever. There&#8217;s no limit to the superb qualities of aged cannabis when it&#8217;s properly dried, well cured and suitably stored.


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## chocobear (Oct 31, 2013)

I follow a different perfect cure method. It consists of 3 things.

1. Bud dried until stems are ALMOST snapable
2. Any kind of glass jar with an air tight seal
3. Boveda 62% humidipacks

The method:
Hang branches to dry or if you are scared about mold etc cut into smaller buds and stick in a drying rack.
Wait for stems to be just about snapping so there is some moisture, but not an overwhelming amount
Stick bud into mason jars, add 1, 8g boveda pack per ounce of bud, or 1, 60g boveda pack per pound of bud in the container
Seal the jars and stick them somewhere dark for however long you feel like (Packs tend to last a year depending on how hard they have to work ie how often you open the jars)
__________
Pros: No hygrometers, no burping, low risk of mold (will occur if buds are not dried enough), can store bud for around a year with no issue
Cons:It is not completely idiot proof, it is only almost completely idiot proof... I guess?

Note: I advise everyone to try this method on a small scale first maybe just an o or 2 in a jar with a couple 8g packs. This is just to make sure you have the right drying range, and are not part of the total idiot group.

Disclaimer: Just because it didn't work for you doesn't necessarily mean you are a total idiot. There are other factors involved, but you are probably a total idiot if you screw this up.


Thoughts?


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## BWG707 (Oct 31, 2013)

chocobear said:


> I follow a different perfect cure method. It consists of 3 things.
> 
> 1. Bud dried until stems are ALMOST snapable
> 2. Any kind of glass jar with an air tight seal
> ...


I follow the same routine. I've been checking some of my jars after about 10 to 14 days and all looks very well, no complaints at all. I'm gaining more and more confidence in these BP's as my curing continues. These could be around to stay.


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## chocobear (Oct 31, 2013)

Yes, yes, excellent. Trying to get the word out about these things is rough. I've been using them for a few months, The person who got me into them has been using them for much longer. Still have had no problems.


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## PaulN'Chuck (Nov 1, 2013)

SimonD said:


> I uploaded this thread to RIU at the request of the staff under the condition that no trolling would be tolerated. I posted the thread in hopes of helping others, but apparently it's become an excuse for non-growers and kids to take shots at those who excel in this field. I keep asking myself why I need this and the answer is always the same.
> 
> Best of luck to all,
> Simon


Youre the only troll here. Youre embarrassed that you cannot provide fact for something you claim to work. I think we upset you by putting you on blast in front of your 28 pages of followers lol
Being big headed only gets you so far, good sir.. You still cannot provide factual evidence which makes you look like you dont know what you are talking about. Truthfully, I woulnt be calling you out if you werent so rude when I asked for more information on your thread. Now im making it my business to prove you wrong. Say what you want about me and my skill as a grower but fact still stand that you cant provide shit for an explanation but you can tell the rest of us we are wrong? 
Everyone please note, Simon only responds negatively and has yet to provide any factual information. Until next time Simon, I await your response (and some FACTS)


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## PaulN'Chuck (Nov 1, 2013)

And im pretty sure Quizoking was much more polite originally than I was and he still got treated like an ass.... Simon, we just wanted to know more. No need to be wude


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## Mr.Vega (Nov 1, 2013)

I.dry mine til crispy on outside..usually takes 4-5days depending on bud size...temps abt 70-72 50%humidity....fuck the stem I dont chk that shit...when the buds crispy on exterior I throw em in a brown bag n seal for 24hours...theyll b spongy agn aftr that...take em out n let em lay out somewhere for 12-24 hours...back in the bag for another 24...chk em...if spongy repeat process until when u chk em theyre not gettin spongy anymore but staying fairly crisp on the outside...when this happens they're ready for jars...maybe the first day or two ill open the jar chk em but most of the time theure good to go by this point n I can leave em there to cure...abt two weeks in the jar n they're perfect for me....this is my method and it works very well for me...I.dont like my weed crumbly dry but I.dont like it moist n spongy either...this technique gives me dry sticky dense buds...the "perfect cure" is a matter of.opinion cause some like their weed diff than others...some like it really dry n some like it a lil moist still....u just gotta find what works for u.....my method works well....u should go.that route...


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## readyog (Nov 1, 2013)

patience'trim dry,paperbag it store in a temp controlled room(cooler is better) turkeybag and burp it a few times a day for2-3 days


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## Elderberries77 (Nov 5, 2013)

SimonD said:


> I uploaded this thread to RIU at the request of the staff under the condition that no trolling would be tolerated. I posted the thread in hopes of helping others, but apparently it's become an excuse for non-growers and kids to take shots at those who excel in this field. I keep asking myself why I need this and the answer is always the same.
> 
> Best of luck to all,
> Simon


Glad that you did, mate. For all of us newcomers to RIU, your efforts are (I hope!) well worth the pain of putting up with a few drongos who can't tell that mink comes before sable  Got my first proper harvest coming up soon and your info here will be invaluable to those like me who are new to this wonderful world of growing lovely dank nuggets! Many praises and two healthy thumbs up SimonD!


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## plaguedog (Nov 10, 2013)

qwizoking said:


> Lol yea I guess all the pics I've put up that don't pull a match on Google were someone else's..why are you trying to act like you know me ..the only conversation we've ever had resulted in your deleted posts and a closed thread..hint none of mine deleted...I never told you I bought weed lol..what kinda shit you spoutin over here?
> Well ima out..was just looking for some sort of reasoning behind the moisture percentage and why moisture is needed at that level..if you don't know which seems to be the case that's fine..I never said by following this method you wouldn't end up with a good product...if that satisfies you fine..but I want to understand the processes at hand and if you can't help me do that I'll be gone...the cure works great that's not what I'm saying..and you shouldn't take such offense simply from two people (unrelated an I apologize for bringing him in) just trying to understand


 Maybe it has to do with the fact that MJ has been illegal for so long, and still is FEDERALLY in the USA? Studies have shown WHY curing and moisture level makes a difference in tobacco, maybe start there and work it out on your own? 

No one really has the science behind why and what moisture matters BECAUSE IT HASN'T BEEN STUDIED YET. Sounds like you have your very own science project to start and keep you busy. 

All I know, and thousands of others know, is Simon's method DOES work, because WE HAVE DONE it. Unlike you.


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## PaulN'Chuck (Nov 19, 2013)

Seems Simon never came back.... I think hes somewhere else here on RIU posting this same blasphemy on other threads. I really wish he could have provided some fact to this wet curing non sense... Well I guess I'll just have to take his absents and as his white flag. 
I didnt want beef Simon, you just shouldnt attack people if you had no leg to stand on boss... But I wish him the very best in everything he does, and pray his bud never develops mold in those jars.. 

All in all, For those of you reading this now and have no clue what the last 30 pages have been about, please just ignore the information on this thread. Please. 
If you are here to learn or gather information about curing, please do it elsewhere. This is not the place for correct information!! 

Always dry your bud until the stem snaps, then jar it. Wet material in an air tight container will make mold. 

What would happen if you put fresh lettuce in a mason jar and left in in the dark? Mold right? So why put wet pot in a jar? 
Common sense people..


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## stak (Nov 19, 2013)

oh stfu already!


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## Frostygreen (Nov 24, 2013)

I've done hanging then paper bag then off to jars. Works well but takes some time


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## plaguedog (Nov 26, 2013)

PaulN'Chuck said:


> Seems Simon never came back.... I think hes somewhere else here on RIU posting this same blasphemy on other threads. I really wish he could have provided some fact to this wet curing non sense... Well I guess I'll just have to take his absents and as his white flag.
> I didnt want beef Simon, you just shouldnt attack people if you had no leg to stand on boss... But I wish him the very best in everything he does, and pray his bud never develops mold in those jars..
> 
> All in all, For those of you reading this now and have no clue what the last 30 pages have been about, please just ignore the information on this thread. Please.
> ...


Not if you do it EXACTLY as posted. It works fine, I think you may have a problem comprehending the information provided. Been doing it this way for the past 4 years. it works. No mold. Perfect cure. EVERY TIME.


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## DemonTrich (Nov 26, 2013)

2 harvests by following simone tek, and NO issues. like the title states, a PERFECT cure each and every time.


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## fbrandom (Dec 9, 2013)

I've been burping my jar for one week , now my hygrometer is reading 63%. do i have to keep burping everyday or i can leave the jar sealed longer and dont worry about mold? thanks


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## dannyboy602 (Dec 9, 2013)

PaulN'Chuck said:


> Seems Simon never came back.... I think hes somewhere else here on RIU posting this same blasphemy on other threads. I really wish he could have provided some fact to this wet curing non sense... Well I guess I'll just have to take his absents and as his white flag.
> I didnt want beef Simon, you just shouldnt attack people if you had no leg to stand on boss... But I wish him the very best in everything he does, and pray his bud never develops mold in those jars..
> 
> All in all, For those of you reading this now and have no clue what the last 30 pages have been about, please just ignore the information on this thread. Please.
> ...


the best way to gauge how wet bud is is w/ a hygrometer. and if it is wet it needs to come out. then try again the next day. my problem w/ the idea of letting buds dry till the stems snap leaves a lot to chance. if it over dries it's too far gone. a hygrometer doesn't lie. better to be safe than sorry. write a thread about your method if you like but don't bash this one


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## Sunbiz1 (Dec 9, 2013)

dannyboy602 said:


> the best way to gauge how wet bud is is w/ a hygrometer. and if it is wet it needs to come out. then try again the next day. my problem w/ the idea of letting buds dry till the stems snap leaves a lot to chance. if it over dries it's too far gone. a hygrometer doesn't lie. better to be safe than sorry. write a thread about your method if you like but don't bash this one


This thread is the reason I bought hygrometers, and the %'s given are fairly accurate by the OP. I wound-up modifying this version a bit, before stems snap I simply jar and measure humidity level. Usually it needs to go back on the rack for a while, then I simply re-test in jar.

Using this method I can slow dry w/o ever over-drying...like wine!.


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## vida (Dec 9, 2013)

quick question about the temps when curing like this, I have some bud curing in a jar and its been doing pretty well but I put it under my bed yesterday without noticing I have a heat vent blowing pretty warm air out right around the jar lol the temps got to about 75f and before that my RH was around 60 but after sitting in the warm air its up to about 70%RH should I leave it closed up a little while so it doesn't dump all the moisture out and be too dry to cure? I like this method though, when I can go by specific numbers somewhat scientifically and know it works I always love that lol


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## dannyboy602 (Dec 9, 2013)

Sunbiz1 said:


> This thread is the reason I bought hygrometers, and the %'s given are fairly accurate by the OP. I wound-up modifying this version a bit, before stems snap I simply jar and measure humidity level. Usually it needs to go back on the rack for a while, then I simply re-test in jar.
> 
> Using this method I can slow dry w/o ever over-drying...like wine!.


simon helped me and his thread can help others. he doesn't have much patience however



vida said:


> quick question about the temps when curing like this, I have some bud curing in a jar and its been doing pretty well but I put it under my bed yesterday without noticing I have a heat vent blowing pretty warm air out right around the jar lol the temps got to about 75f and before that my RH was around 60 but after sitting in the warm air its up to about 70%RH should I leave it closed up a little while so it doesn't dump all the moisture out and be too dry to cure? I like this method though, when I can go by specific numbers somewhat scientifically and know it works I always love that lol


my feeling is that moist buds raised the rh inside the jar despite the warm dry air on the outside. had the jar been open your buds would be toast. you lucked out so proceed with your cure


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## vida (Dec 10, 2013)

ok cool lol thanks!


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## plaguedog (Dec 29, 2013)

guy incognito said:


> You can say it as many times as you like but the chemistry applies regardless of volume. Change the temperature and you change the relative humidity. I suspect that since most of the volume inside the jar is marijuana (and not air) that it would have a dampening effect on the humidity swings (ie RH increases and the weed will absorb more moisture making the RH of the air lower, and when RH decreases the mj will release more moisture making the RH higher).
> 
> 
> 
> ...


No. Zero Change, not enough air inside the jar. 

The End.

Why do people on this forum have to argue every point before they even try this method out?


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## plaguedog (Dec 29, 2013)

...................................................


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## Miki D (Dec 30, 2013)

SimonD said:


> The thread is open for discussion. Please feel free to post your questions, hints and personal experiences.
> 
> Best,
> Simon


For my first Cure I used these hygrometer lids. It was an invaluable tool for keeping track of the humidity in my jars.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=171205999290&ssPageName=ADME:L:LCA:US:1123


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## dannyboy602 (Dec 31, 2013)

Miki D said:


> For my first Cure I used these hygrometer lids. It was an invaluable tool for keeping track of the humidity in my jars.
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=171205999290&ssPageName=ADME:L:LCA:US:1123


interesting how the product claims to be made in usa but there's chinese all over it.


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## MrDetox (Dec 31, 2013)

Simon you are the man this made it easy for me can't wait to try it out n post the results I WILL BE BACK (in my best arnold voice)


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## reggaerican (Jan 21, 2014)

Good job with the how to Simon. I been curring mine the same way for years just without the hydrometer. It works.!


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## benbud89 (Jan 21, 2014)

Hey guys!!! Ive just finished my first grow, which I hope to have done succesfully. I cut down my LSD after 68 days of flowering time, just when the first trichomes seemed to be milky and a bit of amberish. I might have cut her down early, but I would rather have it too milky than too amber. I dried like this: Four days of drying the colas about 20-25cms long hanging downwards in an environment of 25-45%. When the bottom of the stalks started to break when bending and the tops were still bendable, I cut them out in nuggets and jarred them up. That seems to be the level of dryness for curing, according to different guides. But how should I go about curing? Right now I have them hid away in closed jars filled up about 90%. I would really appreciate any input since it would be a shame to step wrongly after all this time, hard work and study. If Ive done the previous step wrong, then please correct me. Id really love some input from you experienced growers!


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## reggaerican (Jan 22, 2014)

Sounds like you did good benbud. Just keep burping your jar the first few days or as long as it take to make sure they are the right moisture. Ideally you want them to burn even with no snap, crackle and pop noise (too wet). A nice even gray ash is what you want to see..


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## Johnxnyg (Jan 28, 2014)

Is the hygrometer caliber IV the new recommended. One? Or should I look for the 3?


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## Pcinla (Jan 30, 2014)

Johnxnyg said:


> Is the hygrometer caliber IV the new recommended. One? Or should I look for the 3?


Hey Johnxny, the Caliber IV is just the original manufacturer's latest model. I don't know how true it is, but I read somewhere that you run the risk of getting a less than reliable unit if you order a Calibre III because instead of being the real deal, it could be a Chinese-made knockoff.


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## BWG707 (Jan 31, 2014)

You should try to keep your humidity somewhere between 40% and 60%. 60% might to be too high for some. I'd say 50% is ideal.


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## fatboyOGOF (Feb 1, 2014)

and remember to change the batteries in your hygrometers once in awhile. i was annoyed that they all read differently then the light bulb went off.



i'm curing my latest batch right now. 

boveda packs and hygrometers. we've come a long way.


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## GrowBrooklyn (Feb 1, 2014)

I have a few of the model IV and they work as well as the III. Plus, you can calibrate them, so get a boveda calibration pack too.


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## Cannabis Kitty (Feb 1, 2014)

We use the old hang and dry method, but this may be worth a go. That is the great thing about growing i think, sharing experiences that have worked for you and developing an individual grow style! Thank you Simon.


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## Macto (Feb 1, 2014)

^ LIKEeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee


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## hermex (Mar 27, 2014)

Great post. I had some trainwreck ready to jar tonight so I was hoping to find a hygrometer at Meijer or Walmart that was jar-sized. No luck in the lawn and garden sections, but Meijer had a circular, analog meter in the water treatment section. The 8 in stock ranged from of 30-40%, but I bought two that were at 35% for $4.99 each. I don't think these will be sufficient long term, but I have one next to my weather station and it's within 5%, so they will help me for this harvest and I'll have three weeks to shop for an alternative. Tomorrow I will check a cigar shop for small digital meters before ordering from Ebay.

Thanks again for the great post. I've had some tried and true pinch and sniff cures, but this thread convinced me to go with a numbers based approach. I was just operating off of what I had been told to do based on cues from the plant and although successful, did not fully understand my curing process. Last harvest though I had some difficulty getting some jorge's diamonds to my snapping point with the smell and texture I was used to. It's all well and good until something goes wrong and then it helps to understand the process. That is what brought me here and I your post was very helpful.


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## Dr.J20 (Apr 13, 2014)

Simon, i hope you're getting a cut of the profits on this hygrolid (<-link) for widemouth mason jars. I need 6 but damn, 90 bones for 6 mason jar lids? that's a hard one to explain to the old lady....
be easy friends


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## AFROBIN77 (Apr 14, 2014)

SimonD said:


> This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.
> 
> It's a very simple and effective process:
> 
> ...


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## AFROBIN77 (Apr 14, 2014)

I used this method and thanks it worked very well .......


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## Ray black (Apr 26, 2014)

I cut the limbs off and dry them on large air filters. Not with air running through them. Just air filters on the counter. Seems to provide airflow under the buds when they are sitting there. I chop the fans off and that's about it. Takes 4 days until you can smoke it. I've hung dried them for years and this seems to be way faster and I don't lose any taste... 

My 2 cents.


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## NyQuilkush318 (May 4, 2014)

Malacath said:


> wait till the pot hanging starts to almost dry fully (between 5 and 7 days)and stems almost snap. place nuggs in grocery bags about 3/4 full for like 2 days and leave open some where dark and kool with air flow. fluff consistently. place in air/light tight jars or tobacco jars with lid unclosed but on top of jar for another day or so then stuff into jars dont be afraid to pack down nuggs not too mutch tho then open up the jars every other day for like a week then start the long seal for a couple weeks in total darkness... some strains can even be cured for like a month.


So leve the bag open for 2days in the dark


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## Malacath (May 5, 2014)

2 days or a day somewhere in between


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## theone718 (May 20, 2014)

SimonD said:


> This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.
> 
> It's a very simple and effective process:
> 
> ...


THIS FOR A NEWBIE IS WACK AND COST MONEY IF U WANT THE REEMDIE MESSAGE ME


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## NyQuilkush318 (May 31, 2014)

How long u leve them in the jars for after u take them out bagQUOTE="Malacath, post: 8110941, member: 489714"]wait till the pot hanging starts to almost dry fully (between 5 and 7 days)and stems almost snap. place nuggs in grocery bags about 3/4 full for like 2 days and leave open some where dark and kool with air flow. fluff consistently. place in air/light tight jars or tobacco jars with lid unclosed but on top of jar for another day or so then stuff into jars dont be afraid to pack down nuggs not too mutch tho then open up the jars every other day for like a week then start the long seal for a couple weeks in total darkness... some strains can even be cured for like a month.[/QUOTE]
H


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## Daub Marley (Jun 1, 2014)

What are some recommendations for airtight containers for curing a pound roughly? I bought some plastic bins from walmart and they were not airtight so my stuff dried out too much. Something that is under 8" tall preferably.


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## skyhighatrist (Jun 1, 2014)

got blue cheese drying can only get the room at 27c and 35% humidity any help on this one?


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## bullwinkle60 (Jun 1, 2014)

Daub Marley said:


> What are some recommendations for airtight containers for curing a pound roughly? I bought some plastic bins from walmart and they were not airtight so my stuff dried out too much. Something that is under 8" tall preferably.


I use old fashion glass candy jars.I bought two of them at Goodwill which is probably where you'll find them or else try searching on line. They have wooden tops that seal very well.


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## MrTopSodaPop (Jun 2, 2014)

do i put in the top or bottom of the jar?


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## Sparkticus (Jun 2, 2014)

I don't understand why there is so much extracurricular activity on this thread. If you have a method of curing and it works for you, there's no need to read any of this info... or bash Simon for trying to help noobs. This curing method is proven and works if done properly. In fact, it is the SAME cure that most are doing except it adds a hygrometer to take the guess-work out of it for those who DON'T KNOW by FEEL, if the bud is dried enough and ready for curing. The hygrometer is like training wheels. If you don't need the hygrometer, great. But some may have no idea what they're doing, so they are completely unfamiliar with the feel of the stems/bud etc. 

It's inevitable that most new growers will put buds in jars too early, or too late, on their first grow (unless they're being helped by someone knowledgeable). Some experienced growers (even if they know by look and feel) prefer to know exactly (with use of a hygrometer) when the bud is ready for cure because we're just that compulsive, lol. Also variations like size/density can lead to differences, so saying a general statement like "I hang for 4 days" can lead to someone else putting their bud in jars too late or early. I use this method, but after the first run or two, I could tell you by looking and feeling when my bud is between 58-60%, so I highly recommend this method for first-timers. 

This is the same thing as harvesting, trimming, hanging, checking stems/buds by hand, final trimming and putting into jars for cure. Burp for a few days and close for long term. Done. The only difference is that instead of waiting for the buds to be ready by "feel" only, you use a hygrometer to tell you the moisture content inside the jar (which is the moisture content of the BUDS). Not the room, or the air in the closet. It is telling you that the buds are at 55-60% moisture content and in the proper zone for curing (so close up the jar and wait). Why guess when such a simple procedure allows you to know exactly what's happening?

The misinterpretations are leading to misconceptions about the post. I had someone tell me this method was somehow too precise, and that I was a "badass", then proceed to tell me theirs which was EXACTLY THE SAME (chop, trim, hang for a few days, check stems/buds, final trim when ready, put in jars, burp for a few days/week, close for 2-8 weeks). The ONLY difference was he didn't use a hygrometer yet, my cure was somehow more complicated. 

If you have other methods that you prefer, post them. There's no need to turn someone's helpful thread into a pissing contest. I'm always eager to learn and perfect because, even being an avid grower of all sorts of things, I realize I know very little. Paper bags, drying racks, cardboard boxes, cabinets etc.etc.etc...There's a million and one ways to do everything. Bottom line, Simon's method will work when done properly as I'm sure others will, too. Thanks for the info.


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## TripleMindedGee5150 (Jun 2, 2014)

I think this part of the game is where it takes a few trials to get it on point. My first dry/cure the weed taste like hay (outdoor) and smelled like plant. Just plain dried plant. 

This time around (indoor) buds were stacked nicer , little fuller . Taste like candy actually at some exhales, but smells like piss ?? Idk . I 've read the oaksterdam book but is that kinda what others go through ?

Sent from my HTC One using Rollitup mobile app


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## NyQuilkush318 (Jun 2, 2014)

Malacath said:


> wait till the pot hanging starts to almost dry fully (between 5 and 7 days)and stems almost snap. place nuggs in grocery bags about 3/4 full for like 2 days and leave open some where dark and kool with air flow. fluff consistently. place in air/light tight jars or tobacco jars with lid unclosed but on top of jar for another day or so then stuff into jars dont be afraid to pack down nuggs not too mutch tho then open up the jars every other day for like a week then start the long seal for a couple weeks in total darkness... some strains can even be cured for like a month.


can you put them in a brown box in stade of brown papper bag an what should the temps be an you sayleve bag open for 2 days but how often toconsistently fluff them help out bro


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## Dr.J20 (Jun 4, 2014)

just a head's up...you can save 5 bucks on hygrometers if you go with hygrolids...i just picked up two for curing with widemouth 1/2 gallon mason jars, which should allow for ≈4 ozs at a time (depending on bud density etc.). they're 15 bucks a pop, but they're universally usable on widemouth jars, and they're easy to calibrate. this also allows no hygrometer in the jar (kinda nice to have that volume free for buds). not a company shill, just started using the product and it seems to work nicely with Simon's method, thought i might pass along the savings (lowest price i saw for the caliber iii hygrometer was 19.99)
be easy,
Dr.J


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## Malacath (Jun 6, 2014)

yeah i


NyQuilkush318 said:


> can you put them in a brown box in stade of brown papper bag an what should the temps be an you sayleve bag open for 2 days but how often toconsistently fluff them help out bro


guess you can leave


NyQuilkush318 said:


> can you put them in a brown box in stade of brown papper bag an what should the temps be an you sayleve bag open for 2 days but how often toconsistently fluff them help out bro


yeah you can put em in a box i guess i just like to use grocery bags cause how thin they are and i can just fluff by emptying out the nugg into another grocery bag that being the fluff..you can do that like 3 times a day for 2 days in a dark cool area.or for one day no worries. then i put the nug in 1 gallon jars with the lid on top unscrewd for 1 day. then i seal and burp em once or twice a day for like 5 days then i seal em tight for the long cure.


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## NyQuilkush318 (Jun 6, 2014)

[QUOT="Malacath, post: 10576925, member: 489714"]yeah i

guess you can leave

yeah you can put em in a box i guess i just like to use grocery bags cause how thin they are and i can just fluff by emptying out the nugg into another grocery bag that being the fluff..you can do that like 3 times a day for 2 days in a dark cool area.or for one day no worries. then i put the nug in 1 gallon jars with the lid on top unscrewd for 1 day. then i seal and burp em once or twice a day for like 5 days then i seal em tight for the long cure.[/QUOTE]
Like how u burp them u take them out the jar for a couple of minutes


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## NyQuilkush318 (Jun 6, 2014)

yoMalacath said:


> yeah i
> 
> guess you can leave
> 
> yeah you can put em in a box i guess i just like to use grocery bags cause how thin they are and i can just fluff by emptying out the nugg into another grocery bag that being the fluff..you can do that like 3 times a day for 2 days in a dark cool area.or for one day no worries. then i put the nug in 1 gallon jars with the lid on top unscrewd for 1 day. then i seal and burp em once or twice a day for like 5 days then i seal em tight for the long cure.


So when you take them out the jars to burp them u put them in the bag an then back into the jars


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## Malacath (Jun 7, 2014)

NyQuilkush318 said:


> So when you take them out the jars to burp them u put them in the bag an then back into the jars


No dude you dont take out the nugg from the jars you just open em for like a couple minutes then close em again thats a burp. Do not remove from jars


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## Malacath (Jun 7, 2014)

Daub Marley said:


> What are some recommendations for airtight containers for curing a pound roughly? I bought some plastic bins from walmart and they were not airtight so my stuff dried out too much. Something that is under 8" tall preferably.


Are you really asking this question???? Get jars dummy! ( not trying to offend ya or anything its just a dumb question)


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## Daub Marley (Jun 7, 2014)

During the curing process I'll need to mix up/turn over then buds. The only jars I can find within reasonable price are canning jars, and I would need like 120 jars. Spending 2 hours each day doing something that would take only 15 minutes with bigger containers is dumb. The container needs to be cheap, hold at least a pound, and it needs to be wider than it is tall. That pretty much excludes all jars, but maybe you know of jars that would easily fit my criteria and that's why its a dumb question? Or maybe you were too dumb to read my question correctly? It needs to hold at least a pound!


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## NyQuilkush318 (Jun 7, 2014)

Think bro so what a bout when you have them in Brown papper bags u do it same way as the jars leve in bagsOTE="Malacath, post: 10580222, member: 489714"]No dude you dont take out the nugg from the jars you just open em for like a couple minutes then close em again thats a burp. Do not remove from jars[/QUOTE]
Thi


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## Malacath (Jun 8, 2014)

Daub Marley said:


> During the curing process I'll need to mix up/turn over then buds. The only jars I can find within reasonable price are canning jars, and I would need like 120 jars. Spending 2 hours each day doing something that would take only 15 minutes with bigger containers is dumb. The container needs to be cheap, hold at least a pound, and it needs to be wider than it is tall. That pretty much excludes all jars, but maybe you know of jars that would easily fit my criteria and that's why its a dumb question? Or maybe you were too dumb to read my question correctly? It needs to hold at least a pound!


I dont know where you got 120 jars from but i can cure a pound of pot in 2 1 gallon jars 3 at the max... I think your getting too complicated with your methods...


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## jyck (Jun 9, 2014)

Sparkticus said:


> I don't understand why there is so much extracurricular activity on this thread. If you have a method of curing and it works for you, there's no need to read any of this info... or bash Simon for trying to help noobs. This curing method is proven and works if done properly. In fact, it is the SAME cure that most are doing except it adds a hygrometer to take the guess-work out of it for those who DON'T KNOW by FEEL, if the bud is dried enough and ready for curing. The hygrometer is like training wheels. If you don't need the hygrometer, great. But some may have no idea what they're doing, so they are completely unfamiliar with the feel of the stems/bud etc.
> 
> It's inevitable that most new growers will put buds in jars too early, or too late, on their first grow (unless they're being helped by someone knowledgeable). Some experienced growers (even if they know by look and feel) prefer to know exactly (with use of a hygrometer) when the bud is ready for cure because we're just that compulsive, lol. Also variations like size/density can lead to differences, so saying a general statement like "I hang for 4 days" can lead to someone else putting their bud in jars too late or early. I use this method, but after the first run or two, I could tell you by looking and feeling when my bud is between 58-60%, so I highly recommend this method for first-timers.
> 
> ...


Sparkticus, I know exactly why there is so much discussion on this topic. This phase of growing KILLS me every time. The drying/curing process is by far the most difficult part of the grow. I'm on my 11th try and still have not figured this out. I can grow the most beautiful plant but once it's time to harvest it's all over. I have never been able to produce anything comparable to product I've gotten elsewhere. It's gotten to the point where I'm so discouraged I will never try again unless I succeed this time around. To me, every grow has been a waste of so much time and so much money. Patience is not my problem. Even after reading so many replies on this post, I still don't know what to do. Simon's explanation still leaves some questions in my mind. 

To quickly explain my latest failure...

Plant was harvested 19 days ago (now I do have another coming soon and have ordered a hygrometer, but did not use one for the flowers I'm describing now). I hung the flowers for almost 8 days. The outside of the flowers felt dry but the stems still flexed and not snapped. I was feeling confident since all of my previous attempts were apparently put into jars too soon. So after the 8 days the flowers went into jars. Like I said earlier, I'm at day 19 now. The flowers LOOK great when looking at the closed jar. They look better than all previous attempts to this point. However, when I open the jars I'm very disappointed. The flowers smell like grass clippings. They smell good when broken up, but when I open the jar it's a totally different smell. Also, the stems still do not snap...after 19 days. It seems like they should. The 19 days from harvest plus not watering for about 4 days before harvest mean these flowers have not received water for about 23 days or so. If I didn't have any water for 23 days I would be dead and dried out yet these flowers still aren't dry. They feel dry on the outside until I start breaking them up. I'm going to keep my fingers crossed for these flowers and my next harvest but the point I was trying to make is that we can't discuss this topic enough. Growing the flowers is easy in my opinion. drying/curing is rocket science.


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## Sparkticus (Jun 9, 2014)

jyck said:


> Sparkticus, I know exactly why there is so much discussion on this topic. This phase of growing KILLS me every time. The drying/curing process is by far the most difficult part of the grow. I'm on my 11th try and still have not figured this out. I can grow the most beautiful plant but once it's time to harvest it's all over. I have never been able to produce anything comparable to product I've gotten elsewhere. It's gotten to the point where I'm so discouraged I will never try again unless I succeed this time around. To me, every grow has been a waste of so much time and so much money. Patience is not my problem. Even after reading so many replies on this post, I still don't know what to do. Simon's explanation still leaves some questions in my mind.
> 
> To quickly explain my latest failure...
> 
> Plant was harvested 19 days ago (now I do have another coming soon and have ordered a hygrometer, but did not use one for the flowers I'm describing now). I hung the flowers for almost 8 days. The outside of the flowers felt dry but the stems still flexed and not snapped. I was feeling confident since all of my previous attempts were apparently put into jars too soon. So after the 8 days the flowers went into jars. Like I said earlier, I'm at day 19 now. The flowers LOOK great when looking at the closed jar. They look better than all previous attempts to this point. However, when I open the jars I'm very disappointed. The flowers smell like grass clippings. They smell good when broken up, but when I open the jar it's a totally different smell. Also, the stems still do not snap...after 19 days. It seems like they should. The 19 days from harvest plus not watering for about 4 days before harvest mean these flowers have not received water for about 23 days or so. If I didn't have any water for 23 days I would be dead and dried out yet these flowers still aren't dry. They feel dry on the outside until I start breaking them up. I'm going to keep my fingers crossed for these flowers and my next harvest but the point I was trying to make is that we can't discuss this topic enough. Growing the flowers is easy in my opinion. drying/curing is rocket science.


I know exactly what you mean. It's not rocket science, though. In my opinion, this is why the hygrometer is a helpful tool. Takes out the guess work. I just meant the arguing and personal stuff takes away from the post and all the good info. 

Once you get it, you'll have it for good. If you follow the method used in this post, in my opinion, you will get a successful cure. Hanging for 8 days would completely dry out my bud to a point I would not be able to cure. Stem, or no stem snap. Personally, I don't wait till the stem completely snaps off..just shows good rigidity and creases with a pop if that makes sense. Like 3-5 days depending on size of flowers, humidity in room, fan, etc. The buds feel dry but not crispy. When squeezed, you can still tell they have moisture because they're springy. Then I jar and burp until the jar maintains 58-60% (4-7 days depending on how early I jar them). Now, It's 2 weeks from when I close the jar for good (not 2 weeks from harvest or hanging). They also look and feel closer to the end result (what you're used to purchasing) at this point. If you harvested 19 days ago and hung for 8 that means the buds in the jars for 11 days...In my case, I'd still have to burp for a few days, then start the cure. So really, the buds have only been curing for a few days. Even if you put them in jars and closed it after 8 days of hanging, the smell only starts to change around 10-14 days of the cure. By the end of 2 weeks the bud should now look and feel like what you recognize. Anything beyond this is bonus. A lot of people cure for 2 months. 

Be patient. If you put the buds in and they're still too wet, take them out of the jar and let them dry some more. When you take them out they'll get dry to the touch, then when you put them in they'll get moist again. The idea is to get them into jars around 65-70% moisture content and burp until you can lock them at 55-60% (where curing happens). This is why you use the hygrometer. Good luck!


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## seattlegrownewb (Jun 12, 2014)

rocpilefsj said:


> Thanks SimonD. Great how tsimon. manicure bud. dr
> u for three days then cut buds off plant and put in paper bag for three more days keeping it rolled up and openind
> ddfwice a day for a few min. now jar it
> d
> ...


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## seattlegrownewb (Jun 12, 2014)

so imo drying and curing is the most overlooked step. anyone feel free to give your two cents. first trim bud. then i dry for three day..some times less if the bud is fluffy but never more. then i put it in a paper bag for three to five days. then onto mason jars.


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## seattlegrownewb (Jun 12, 2014)

Sparkticus said:


> I know exactly what you mean. It's not rocket science, though. In my opinion, this is why the hygrommeter is a helpful tool. Takes out the guess work. I just meant the arguing and personal stuff takes away from the post and all the good info.
> 
> Once you get it, you'll have it for good. If you follow the method used in this post, in my opinion, you will get a successful cure. Hanging for 8 days would completely dry out my bud to a point I would not be able to cure. Stem, or no stem snap. Personally, I don't wait till the stem completely snaps off..just shows good rigidity and creases with a pop if that makes sense. Like 3-5 days depending on size of flowers, humidity in room, fan, etc. The buds feel dry but not crispy. When squeezed, you can still tell they have moisture because they're springy. Then I jar and burp until the jar maintains 58-60% (4-7 days depending on how early I jar them). Now, It's 2 weeks from when I close the jar for good (not 2 weeks from harvest or hanging). They also look and feel closer to the end result (what you're used to purchasing) at this point. If you harvested 19 days ago and hung for 8 that means the buds in the jars for 11 days...In my case, I'd still have to burp for a few days, then start the cure. So really, the buds have only been curing for a few days. Even if you put them in jars and closed it after 8 days of hanging, the smell only starts to change around 10-14 days of the cure. By the end of 2 weeks the bud should now look and feel like what you recognize. Anything beyond this is bonus. A lot of people cure for 2 months.
> 
> Be patient. If you put the buds in and they're still too wet, take them out of the jar and let them dry some more. When you take them out they'll get dry to the touch, then when you put them in they'll get moist again. The idea is to get them into jars around 65-70% moisture content and burp until you can lock them at 55-60% (where curing happens). This is why you use the hygrometer. Good luck!


i


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## seattlegrownewb (Jun 12, 2014)

im gonna buy the meter thing now. how many days in jar til u stop burping? i hang dry for two to three days then put it in a paper bag for three to five more days then jar it.


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## orion22 (Jun 13, 2014)

is it ok to store buds (after initial curing) at around 62% I'm asking because I acquired a humidity controlled cigar box but its range only goes between 62% and 75% would this work or would it cause bud rot?


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## nwbudds (Jun 14, 2014)

I don't know if anyone has this or if it has been discussed but after i put my buds in my jars they dont smell like the great like they did before drying. It smells like alfalfa or something like that is there a reason why it does this. I am using TGA super soil any answers or some info would be great thanks.


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## Happygirl (Jun 15, 2014)

I've got so much to lean love this site.


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## Dogenzengi (Jun 15, 2014)

nwbudds said:


> I don't know if anyone has this or if it has been discussed but after i put my buds in my jars they dont smell like the great like they did before drying. It smells like alfalfa or something like that is there a reason why it does this. I am using TGA super soil any answers or some info would be great thanks.


After you dry your bud.
Fill each jar 1/2 way, store in a cool dark spot.
I store them in my kitchen cabinet for easy access to burp jars.
Close for 4 days then open for 1 hour and close.
Repeat in 4 days, open for 1 hour.
By the 12th day I will empty all my jars let the bud sit out on a tray for an hour, then I re jar by weight 1 ounce per jar.
Burp once more in 7 days for 15 - 30 minutes.

Bud should have lost any hay, alfalfa , green smell.
The odor may seem weak, just grind a little bud and it should smell awesome.


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## Dogenzengi (Jun 15, 2014)

orion22 said:


> is it ok to store buds (after initial curing) at around 62% I'm asking because I acquired a humidity controlled cigar box but its range only goes between 62% and 75% would this work or would it cause bud rot?


62% RH is perfect, anything over 70% RH can allow bud rot, mold, etc to grow.


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## orion22 (Jun 15, 2014)

Dogenzengi said:


> 62% RH is perfect, anything over 70% RH can allow bud rot, mold, etc to grow.


thanks wasn't to sure but i figured its ok for cigars it be good for bud.


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## seattlegrownewb (Jun 16, 2014)

man i know exactly what your talking about. when i first jar buds they smelln dank but after two weeks of jar theyh smell like hay. what are we doing wrong?


nwbudds said:


> I don't know if anyone has this or if it has been discussed but after i put my buds in my jars they dont smell like the great like they did before drying. It smells like alfalfa or something like that is there a reason why it does this. I am using TGA super soil any answers or some info would be great thanks.


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## orion22 (Jun 16, 2014)

seattlegrownewb said:


> man i know exactly what your talking about. when i first jar buds they smelln dank but after two weeks of jar theyh smell like hay. what are we doing wrong?


try using a hygrometer to gage the RH in the jar you want to aim for around mid 50's to low 60's, I've found that the hay smell generally comes from bud that was dried to much or to fast.


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## hermex (Jun 27, 2014)

This method truly will produce a perfect cure every time, great title. Go back to the instructions and follow them. No need to read further on my post, unless you want to.

If you have had problems, then ask if you have "stayed on top of it." If you are also working a full time job, then unless you took it to work with you until it was ready for the cure, then it could have spent too much time too wet in the jar and not enough time laying out in-between its sealed up times.

I first read the thread while everyone was still in veg. Now I'm about 5 harvests in (taking down a couple every 2-3 weeks) and have used it step by step each time and by the numbers each time. Each strain does end up throwing its own distinct scent, even if it takes a while to get the earthy smell out. This is not my first rodeo, but it is much larger than the last time and my first time using the numbers. The numbers do correspond to the pinch and feel testing I am used to. Thank you for the info!

I bought analog hygrometers from a cigar/smoke shop and drilled out holes in the tops of lids, as you can see in the picture. The jar had been open for an extended burp, that's why the reading is in the 40s. That jar is at about 57% once it stabilizes....now if I could just stop myself from smoking out of it....don't fool yourself, smokeable or not is not the only test here. Yep, that's an old sock around the jar. The hygrometers came with seals on them, but I would have used some o-rings or something if I didn't think it was a tight enough seal. Once we are talking long term storage, I use just a regular lid. The hygrometers were 9.95, but I could have gotten them for less on Ebay. I calibrated them using an indoor digital unit that is reliable to the best of my knowledge. For the first harvest I actually just tossed them inside the jars and had not yet sunk them into the lids. I only have two, but if I have a batch, I will use the lid on one jar and then randomly verify that all jars are at approximately the same value when they stabilize, even though they do not have hygrometers in them full time...how unscientific of me. I bought a case of quart jars and I buy cases all the time. I cannot let my girls go to someone who will keep it in plastic, so I give jars away all the time....how unprofitable of me, but that's not what it is about! If I were worried about investing 10, 20 or even $50 in jars, then I'd maybe use food service buckets? I could certainly get larger jars, but these fit in my transport safe, my coolers, my laptop bag. If I did not have the time to tend to multiple jars - then I wouldn't be trying to grow quality medicine, I would support the lifestyle of someone who did. Ya know, pay an expert, not work on my own car unless it was an early 90s hunk o junk, call a plumber, take the computer to best buy, get the house painted....you get it.

When I can, I let it go as long as possible and release that moisture as slowly as possible, it does make a difference. Sure, you can do it faster through various methods of fans and dehumidifiers and you'll get different results, but if you follow the instructions at the very beginning of the thread, you will be very happy. Truly and sadly, a lot of end users won't be able to tell the difference that the extra couple of weeks makes (you can always just crack the bud open and get some of that smell, but don't you want to crack the jar and have the smell permeate the room? No seriously, I call it throwing up a flag and I frequently do it for fun. I reach into my pocket and unscrew the cap on the blueberry when I'm in the bar. I then look around to see who is smelling it. Inevitably the waitresses can be heard whispering, "did you smell that, who has it?") and people begin to circle: just from cracking a jar with a gram in it and not even taking it out of my pocket. Again, just follow the instructions, use the numbers, and invest in some sort of accurate hygrometer(s).

Hay.....oh haaaaaayyyyyy! I am not attempting to answer the hay smell issue except to say that leaf stems and the bases of those sugar leaves whose tips just get trimmed (especially in the case of auto trimmers and lack of intense hand manicuring that leaves ONLY bud) are not doing any favors for smell or flavor.


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## randybishop (Jul 1, 2014)

Gonna try this, I over-dried my last batch.


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## JackHererSki (Jul 6, 2014)

I recently tried Boveda Humidity Control Packs.65%RH. I hung it for 3 days and put it in a jar for 1 week and had very well tasting/effective bud...

No really it was banging


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## jojodancer10 (Jul 6, 2014)

Hello to all i got a question for everyone with experience. I chopped my girls after 9 weeks flower.hung plants to dry for 6 days.i didnt trim anything while she hung.i did a trim b4 i jared the buds.placed a hygrometer in the jar.i burpped the jars till the rh inside was between 65%-60% rh.once the jars were at this rh i didnt open the for 8 weeks.when i open the jars the smell was nice but when i smelled one nugget it didnt smell like the jar when i opened it.the bud smelled stail.so i cracked a bud and the smell was inside the nugget. So how do i get the entire nugget to smell like the inside of the bud? Did i miss something? Shouls i let them cure longer? The buds smoke is wow.the smell when cracked open is strong.so plz help,all information is needed fadt​


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## Red1966 (Jul 6, 2014)

SimonD said:


> This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.
> 
> It's a very simple and effective process:
> 
> ...


If you can't trust Oprah, who can you trust?


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## yoyogreen (Jul 6, 2014)

interesting stuff here....ive been at this for lots of years....and no matter where you live geographically....if you don't hang your plants long enough before removing bud from a vine, itll be way difficult to get a legit cure. how long is long enough? ive lived in Colorado(dry)..Arizona(dryer)...and Michigan(at times...90 to 100% humidity). id never hang a plant or a half plant or a branch for less than 14 days ever. if you live in the desert, then water heavy before you cut and hang your plants whole...14 days at least. if you live in humidity..water as normal then cut and hang that girl for 21 days. its all a long and slow dry process to get the best cure. it takes time to dial this kind of thing in, but as long as your space and air flow are adequate no rot issue( ive never had one ever). when they are dried proper the buds do not ever get over dried brittle and go direct to jars till smoked. never burp...no need when dry correctly. taste and smells to the moon (unless your grow skill lacks, and this is the real reason most peeps have issues with taste and smell. lots of variables)


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## jojodancer10 (Jul 6, 2014)

Nice information but 14 -21 days wow.but ill try it


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## yoyogreen (Jul 7, 2014)

without a doubt....longer is key.


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## jojodancer10 (Jul 7, 2014)

Wont the buds be brittle


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## yoyogreen (Jul 7, 2014)

buds become brittle if they dry too quickly. the process must be slow in order to avoid this. that's one reason why chopping dry plants not ideal.


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## Breezee77 (Jul 9, 2014)

SimonD said:


> This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.
> 
> It's a very simple and effective process:
> 
> ...


Hey simon... Sorry if you already covered this but I read most of the post and didn't see anyone talking about it.

I put bud into jars and waited about 12 hours with no change in humidity. It's been 50% in one jar and 52% in another... Guess I screwed up huh?

I personally think it smokes good. They were hanging and on the fraying rack about 14-17 days. How would you handle it at this point? Would you still burp it or just leave it for the long term?


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## jojodancer10 (Jul 9, 2014)

Ok i think i understand now.im getting ready to chop my mom this week,i have been flushing her for 3 days now.she is looking good.ill post pixs to keep u inform and well be looking for guidance


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## NyQuilkush318 (Jul 9, 2014)

Malacath said:


> yeah i
> 
> guess you can leave
> 
> yeah you can put em in a box i guess i just like to use grocery bags cause how thin they are and i can just fluff by emptying out the nugg into another grocery bag that being the fluff..you can do that like 3 times a day for 2 days in a dark cool area.or for one day no worries. then i put the nug in 1 gallon jars with the lid on top unscrewd for 1 day. then i seal and burp em once or twice a day for like 5 days then i seal em tight for the long cure.


Do u close brown bag after u burb them


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## Malacath (Jul 13, 2014)

NyQuilkush318 said:


> Do u close brown bag after u burb them


their in jars when you berp em so why would you ask about brown paper bags. i cant get any simpler than i have read carefully...done with this subject.


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## NyQuilkush318 (Jul 13, 2014)

Malacath said:


> their in jars when you berp em so why would you ask about brown paper bags. i cant get any simpler than i have read carefully...done with this subject.


Bro am just trying to maake out of all this cure shit bro


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## Malacath (Jul 17, 2014)

NyQuilkush318 said:


> Bro am just trying to maake out of all this cure shit bro


No worries. It cool.


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## dannyboy602 (Jul 17, 2014)

Breezee77 said:


> Hey simon... Sorry if you already covered this but I read most of the post and didn't see anyone talking about it.
> 
> I put bud into jars and waited about 12 hours with no change in humidity. It's been 50% in one jar and 52% in another... Guess I screwed up huh?
> 
> I personally think it smokes good. They were hanging and on the fraying rack about 14-17 days. How would you handle it at this point? Would you still burp it or just leave it for the long term?


A fourteen day dry is too long. My guess is u dried most of the moisture out of ur buds and that's why there is no change in rh inside the jar.
U won't find simon d here much. He doesn't like the drama. Drama? What drama? Haha.
So to burp ur jar if the rh is stable is kind of futile don't u think?


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## qwizoking (Jul 17, 2014)

You still have to burp if you want delicious mouthwatering nugs with flavor that lingers...
A common problem with boveda packs, don't forget to burp!
Curing isn't just about curing the plant matter, which I agree, you may have screwed up, though that is still enough moisture to complete gas transfer


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## NyQuilkush318 (Jul 17, 2014)

[QTE="Malacath, post: 10704283, member: 489714"]No worries. It cool.[/QUOTE]
I think am go with humidity packs 62% to be safe how many times i would have to brup them aday bro


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## dominic5969 (Jul 18, 2014)

Trousers said:


> I've put a lot of thought into that as I unscrew jar after jar.
> If I were motivated I would start a business around that idea.
> I just want someone else to do it and I'll write a check.


Dude write me the check I'm a king of at home engineering lol


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## Mr John (Aug 1, 2014)

Malacath said:


> wait till the pot hanging starts to almost dry fully (between 5 and 7 days)and stems almost snap. place nuggs in grocery bags about 3/4 full for like 2 days and leave open some where dark and kool with air flow. fluff consistently. place in air/light tight jars or tobacco jars with lid unclosed but on top of jar for another day or so then stuff into jars dont be afraid to pack down nuggs not too mutch tho then open up the jars every other day for like a week then start the long seal for a couple weeks in total darkness... some strains can even be cured for like a month.


I do the grocery bag method also.


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## FlyBySoHigh (Aug 9, 2014)

I've put my first DWC grow in a large hinge lid jar that clamps shut. I stored it in my safe while closed, and once a day I would open it in for 1~2 hours at a time then return to the safe. I did that for about a month and a half and it was the smoothest smoke I have ever had.. Could have gone longer for it had a slight hint of "green" taste to it but no one complained.. I actually sold a couple 1/4 for $100 and had people begging for more . I'm gonna try this method mentioned above this go around.. I'm about a month away from harvest on my second serious dwc single plant grow..


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## Julius Caesar (Aug 12, 2014)

Trimming after hang drying will preserve more flavor and aroma.


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## RAYRAY420SMOKEWEEDEREDAY (Aug 31, 2014)

Julius Caesar said:


> Trimming after hang drying will preserve more flavor and aroma.


 I always wondered about that.Anyone else have any feedback/opinion on that theory ?
I am in the middle of getting ready to harvest myself and would like to know what people think...


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## thamadfarmer31 (Sep 17, 2014)

In the past the best smoke I had after curing was after the flower was dried on the stem I put in a paper bag & stored in a cool dark place for 3 months, wonderful wonderful smoke, best I've had, & thts saying a lot, now I understand that everyone can't afford to cure for 3mts, but if u can definitely try it.if anyone had this experience I'd luv to hear. .peace!


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## WeekendSupervisor (Oct 1, 2014)

RAYRAY420SMOKEWEEDEREDAY said:


> I always wondered about that.Anyone else have any feedback/opinion on that theory ?


I've been researching, and practising both and here's what I take away from my work. Feedback is appreciated!

Cutting dry takes longer, things get stuck to sticky buds. Trichs are more easily knocked off of the drier buds.
However the dry takes longer with leaves intact, so slower drying should be better tasting buds.

Wet trim is fast. Lots of people recommend this, like Jorge Cervantes and Ed Rosenthal.
However, some will argue that the fresh cut leaves will bleed things that compromise your tasty buds, like chlorophyll.


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## xxMissxx (Oct 1, 2014)

I did ALL my past harvests WET TRIM and never again! This Season I Am DRY TRIMMING... it makes so much more sense... since the point is slowly slowly slowly does it... Strip off Fan Leaves and Hang... when it feels crispy on the outside take it down and do the DRY TRIM over a screen to collect the kief ... then into Paper Bags for a couple days... then into the Jar to cure!... Y.U.M. xxmissxx


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## leonard luis (Oct 1, 2014)

xxMissxx said:


> I did ALL my past harvests WET TRIM and never again! This Season I Am DRY TRIMMING... it makes so much more sense... since the point is slowly slowly slowly does it... Strip off Fan Leaves and Hang... when it feels crispy on the outside take it down and do the DRY TRIM over a screen to collect the kief ... then into Paper Bags for a couple days... then into the Jar to cure!... Y.U.M. xxmissxx


 why not let them hang til they r cured.......then store


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## skunkd0c (Oct 1, 2014)

RAYRAY420SMOKEWEEDEREDAY said:


> I always wondered about that.Anyone else have any feedback/opinion on that theory ?
> I am in the middle of getting ready to harvest myself and would like to know what people think...


there is a thread with one of those auto trimmers here that cost $12000
spins the buds fast as it chops them 

the dude says after testing the machine causes much less damage to the buds
compared to a human chopper handling the buds 

for this reason chopping buds by hand when they are dry causes more damage to the buds
as the leaves stick to the nugs trimming round them disturbs the bud 

imo its best to get as much leaf off the buds as possible when they are still wet 
this will disturb them less overall or use a machine if you have a large yield

if you dry them at lower temps 65 70F they will still dry slow, 10-14 days
imo there is no advantage to leaving/drying buds full of leaves 

peace


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## xxMissxx (Oct 1, 2014)

leonard luis said:


> why not let them hang til they r cured.......then store


coz they gotta GET OUT THE WAY... lotsa plants to chop... so hang... trim... bag... jar... is for me! LOL


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## leonard luis (Oct 1, 2014)

xxMissxx said:


> coz they gotta GET OUT THE WAY... lotsa plants to chop... so hang... trim... bag... jar... is for me! LOL


 yea, thats the reason


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## daybreaker (Oct 2, 2014)

YoungBezzle said:


> Simon Wattz Up Bruh I Was Wondering If You Are Anybody In This Thread Has Ever Heard Of Or Used The Boveda 62% Humidipaks? I've Recently Purchased Some Along With Some Cvault Containers And Have Yet To Use Them But I Pretty Sure They Are Gonna Do The Trick! They Were Featured in HighTimes And Every Review I've Read From Growers Who Use Them Were Positive. All You Gotta Do Is Dry Your Buds Until Your Stems Almost Snap, Drop Your Buds In The Jar Along With Your Boveda Humidipak And BOOM! You're Done! No Burping, No Opening Your Jars! The trick is to leave the proper moisture content in the bud, in relation to it&#8217;s particular density. Relative humidity, and air temperature when jarring will play a role as well. Leaving just enough water and air to allow the "Beneficial" bacteria to feed on the chlorophyll And Starch, but not enough to proliferate throughout the jar. When they run out of air, they die. So opening the jar is counterproductive to curing. The Humidipaks Will Lower Or Raise The Rh To 62%. I Think These Paks Are A Must Have For Beginners And A Nice Addition To The Experienced Growers Arsenal Of "Pot Growing Gadgets"! kiss-ass


totally going to get some of these.Its always that last part of the cure that ya want perfect.I personally love the "cyt the fan leaves and hang til it snaps" method...but the cure starts there as far as im concerned.Anyone can grow weed...but not everyone can cure it.Thats the most important step.


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## daybreaker (Oct 2, 2014)

grower215 said:


> Where can you those pacs at??


google boveda.I've noticed you can getm at your local dispensary OR they have an online store you can order them.I just ordered the 10 pack of 8 g ones.$10.good sample size.


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## daybreaker (Oct 2, 2014)

obijohn said:


> Ive done this for several years this way. I air out the jars so they aren't moist long term, and it smooths out the smoke. But after several months the buds all turn brown. And, I don't have that sweet skunky smell, usually little smell at all. The potency is good, but why can't I keep the nice aroma and greenish color?


its your strtain and if that's not it im wondering if you grom outdoor because outdoor has a tendancy to turn brown.


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## thamadfarmer31 (Oct 2, 2014)

everyone dries and cures differently,it depends on what an individual like his/her final product to be,peace!


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## daybreaker (Oct 2, 2014)

The cure goes as follows.

1.De Fan.(Take big fans off)

2.Hang upside down until stock snaps.

3.Trim up plant and take buds off separating crystal leaves from bud.

4.Fill glass jars with holes in lid and put in a dark cupboard.

5.Every 6 hours open lid and shake buds around a little to keep them from sticking together.

6.Repeat for 5-7 Days until Amber trichomes appear.

7.test product.


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## WeekendSupervisor (Oct 3, 2014)

daybreaker said:


> The cure goes as follows.
> ...
> 4.Fill glass jars with holes in lid and put in a dark cupboard.
> 5.Every 6 hours open lid and shake buds around a little to keep them from sticking together.
> 6.Repeat for 5-7 Days until Amber trichomes appear.


This thread started out by giving better advice than this. The original post by SimonD is very specific, and very reputable. Another post, which people say is based on Simon's work, which helped me understand better is:
Science of Curing: No more guesses needed
http://buymarijuanaseeds.com/community/threads/the-science-of-curing-no-more-guesses-needed.144638/

the holes in your lids are going to mess up the beneficial bacteria's environment.
The amount of burping should be controlled and methodical.
shaking your buds in jars are loosening and losing trichs.
waiting for amber trichs doesn't seem like a good indicator of a finished cure.


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## WeekendSupervisor (Oct 3, 2014)

Also, Chester Copperpot on youtube has a well rounded explanation about what is happening, and why and all that.
There should really be no snake oil or myths in this day and age. We are in the information age. This guy is a little talkative, but he will help you understand *why* you are doing what you are doing.

How to properly dry cannabis for succesful curing

and subsequently:

How To Cure Your Cannabis Harvest


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## WeekendSupervisor (Oct 4, 2014)

the role of oxygen in curing
I learned a little more. I'm still not sure on the roll of O2. I don't think there are bacteria like Chester Copperpot says. I think nvthis in the link above explains this pretty well, and talks about it being processes that continue to use stored energy after the death of the plant. I think the more I read, the more I am confused by conflicting information.


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## grow tiger (Oct 28, 2014)

When I harvest my crop, I plan on hanging the entire plant upside down keeping the fan leaves on for two three days to just make sure it don't dry to fast. My question is , while drying in a closet, what temperature and humidity should it be ? And I know to keep it in the dark but should I keep my fan on low or will this dry it to quick? Also when u say "flushing" does this mean to only give my plant straight water for two weeks before I harvest ? I'm five weeks into flower and if this is true,then I should only feed her water. Will this be enough time to flush the nutes out of the soil? And is there any benifet to keep the plant still in the soil in the dark for 48 hours before I chop her.... Sorry if I re asked any questions but I couldn't find the answers I'm lookn for. Any advise would be much appreciated! Thanx
~Grow Tiger~


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## WeekendSupervisor (Oct 29, 2014)

grow tiger said:


> My question is , while drying in a closet, what temperature and humidity should it be ? And I know to keep it in the dark but should I keep my fan on low or will this dry it to quick? Also when u say "flushing" does this mean to only give my plant straight water for two weeks before I harvest ? And is there any benifet to keep the plant still in the soil in the dark for 48 hours before I chop her....


(admittedly I am new to this, but here's what I gather)
The temp should be below 75F, or you risk losing terpenes (smell and taste). I think in the 60F's and 50 - 60% RH should be a good environment, and that has worked for me. A fan in the room, but NOT directly on the plants is good. The idea is to keep the air moving in the room, NOT dry them out quicker. Flushing is debated whether or not it is necessary, but I've had buds that crackle and pop when you smoke em and I believe that is from excess nitrates from heavy salt fertilizers. I don't flush with General Organics, and taste and smoke is awesome, no detriment.
I think darkness for 1 or 2 days before harvest might be good, I've read a bit on this, but never tried it. 
Good luck, let us know how it turns out for you.


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## Hot Diggity Sog (Oct 29, 2014)

grow tiger said:


> When I harvest my crop, I plan on hanging the entire plant upside down keeping the fan leaves on for two three days to just make sure it don't dry to fast. My question is , while drying in a closet, what temperature and humidity should it be ? And I know to keep it in the dark but should I keep my fan on low or will this dry it to quick? Also when u say "flushing" does this mean to only give my plant straight water for two weeks before I harvest ? I'm five weeks into flower and if this is true,then I should only feed her water. Will this be enough time to flush the nutes out of the soil? And is there any benifet to keep the plant still in the soil in the dark for 48 hours before I chop her.... Sorry if I re asked any questions but I couldn't find the answers I'm lookn for. Any advise would be much appreciated! Thanx
> ~Grow Tiger~


Hey Grow,

I'm no expert (yet) by any stretch but there is a lot of debate over the whole flushing thing. Just think about it though. Do you really think the last 2 weeks of bud production is going to thrive by starving your plant of food?


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## grow tiger (Oct 29, 2014)

Hot Diggity Sog said:


> Hey Grow,
> 
> I'm no expert (yet) by any stretch but there is a lot of debate over the whole flushing thing. Just think about it though. Do you really think the last 2 weeks of bud production is going to thrive by starving your plant of food?


I agree man,this is my first "real" grow to harvest ,usually it was me n someone else n I never really seen everything being done ....n yea there's like yes and no on these threads. Like u said ,I don't want to not feed em at the last streach n wasn't planning on it,but then other people say if I don't, I'll have a harsh bad burning smoke from any nutes that are in the plant , so yea ,I'm at a conflict right now so if anyone else has any advise on our convo,please chime in ! Thank H.D.S.


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## FloerStokes (Oct 29, 2014)

I was wondering what i can do with my seeds. i have some pretty dank buds and received about 60 seeds. Im guessing they are new genetics now. Can i advertise them ?


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## grow tiger (Oct 29, 2014)

Wi


WeekendSupervisor said:


> (admittedly I am new to this, but here's what I gather)
> The temp should be below 75F, or you risk losing terpenes (smell and taste). I think in the 60F's and 50 - 60% RH should be a good environment, and that has worked for me. A fan in the room, but NOT directly on the plants is good. The idea is to keep the air moving in the room, NOT dry them out quicker. Flushing is debated whether or not it is necessary, but I've had buds that crackle and pop when you smoke em and I believe that is from excess nitrates from heavy salt fertilizers. I don't flush with General Organics, and taste and smoke is awesome, no detriment.
> I think darkness for 1 or 2 days before harvest might be good, I've read a bit on this, but never tried it.
> Good luck, let us know how it turns out for you.


Will do ,thanxx man


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## grow tiger (Oct 29, 2014)

daybreaker said:


> The cure goes as follows.
> 
> 1.De Fan.(Take big fans off)
> 
> ...


I'm not an expert by any means but putting holes in your lids Is defeating the purpose of cureing, it can't cure if there's holes... This is y u cure in a cycle almost like ur light cycle. U put it in the jar ,air tight for say 12 hoursvthen open the jar and burp it .the buds should feel wet again ,so u leave the lid off for a few hours ,then repeat, n everyday that goes by u can open it less n less


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## Hot Diggity Sog (Oct 29, 2014)

grow tiger said:


> I agree man,this is my first "real" grow to harvest ,usually it was me n someone else n I never really seen everything being done ....n yea there's like yes and no on these threads. Like u said ,I don't want to not feed em at the last streach n wasn't planning on it,but then other people say if I don't, I'll have a harsh bad burning smoke from any nutes that are in the plant , so yea ,I'm at a conflict right now so if anyone else has any advise on our convo,please chime in ! Thank H.D.S.


Yeah, I hear ya. Seems like a few people probably *know* because they've done side by sides. Most others do what they were taught.

I'm considering flushing 1/2 of my experiment as I have 2 of each strain in most cases. I'm hesitant because things don't grow up to be nice and strong by starving them.


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## MrStickyScissors (Oct 31, 2014)

I cut of all the fan leaves right before I chop all the plants down cause it seems easier. Then I hang them upside down all over the house to where you can't even walk around lol. A fan on low not blowing on the plants but circulating the air. I wait tell they a all the way dry then I trim. Tastes and smells amazing for months to come. Wa la


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## daybreaker (Nov 2, 2014)

grow tiger said:


> I'm not an expert by any means but putting holes in your lids Is defeating the purpose of cureing, it can't cure if there's holes... This is y u cure in a cycle almost like ur light cycle. U put it in the jar ,air tight for say 12 hoursvthen open the jar and burp it .the buds should feel wet again ,so u leave the lid off for a few hours ,then repeat, n everyday that goes by u can open it less n less


yup your right.i tried the holes in the lid thing and it aint happenen.Im back to the ol hang it til its bone,then the jar cure just like I always did.if it aint broke don't fix it.


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## MrStickyScissors (Nov 3, 2014)

That's why I dry mine then trim. Keeps smell even if you store it in a garbage can


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## kingzt (Nov 13, 2014)

Hey everyone I got a quick question I was hoping someone could help me with. I recently put some buds into a jar thinking they were ready for curing but they weren't quite done drying yet. Before I put them in they felt dry on the outside and the stems didn't snap, just bended, so I thought they were ready to go into jars. About 4-5 hours later my hygrometer inside the jar was reading 78%. I opened them back and put them back on the drying rack. But anyways I was wondering if I could just keep them in the jars with the lids open instead of taking them out and drying them at this point. I don't know if keeping them in the jars with the lids off while drying will effect the buds in anyways or if it's fine that way. Right now they're on the rack but just looking for some help if it happens again in the future. Any advice is greatly appreciated, thanks!


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## CashCrops (Nov 13, 2014)

You can end up with mold just on the buds at the bottom, I wouldn't chance it. I have done it but mine were a lot drier then 78%


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## That guy with no name (Nov 18, 2014)

Hey guys - am pretty new to growing and curing - was just wondering could this be made more simple by just saying dry your bud until rh reads 60-65% when sealed in a jar and then leave it alone for as long as possible or until needed? I'm just not 100% on when and why to ever open the jar other than needing to dry more because it's still over 65% rh. Will I have problems leaving a jar sealed at 64/65% for an extended period or must it be under 60% for that? Thanks - hope someone can clear that up for me and sorry if this has been mentioned before


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## qwizoking (Nov 22, 2014)

Google gas transfer..
The cure works through respiration and hydrolysis breaking down the plant. A % of moisture is required To keep stomatas open. Air flow is required this is an aerobic process hence proper burping
Curing the plant is different than curing the trichomes

That's the simplified version


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## grow tiger (Nov 26, 2014)

kingzt said:


> Hey everyone I got a quick question I was hoping someone could help me with. I recently put some buds into a jar thinking they were ready for curing but they weren't quite done drying yet. Before I put them in they felt dry on the outside and the stems didn't snap, just bended, so I thought they were ready to go into jars. About 4-5 hours later my hygrometer inside the jar was reading 78%. I opened them back and put them back on the drying rack. But anyways I was wondering if I could just keep them in the jars with the lids open instead of taking them out and drying them at this point. I don't know if keeping them in the jars with the lids off while drying will effect the buds in anyways or if it's fine that way. Right now they're on the rack but just looking for some help if it happens again in the future. Any advice is greatly appreciated, thanks!


Yea that's OK, if it read that high on your rh then just leave the buds out for 12-24 hours n put them back in n repeat till u get ur rh down, once 65%-68% rh in the jar then just burp them a couple times a day , just leave ur lid off for an hour or so ,move ur buds around in the jar n reseal it , as time goes on ,do it less n less till u get to the "cure zone" which u want it at 62 rh ..... U want to rather have did what u did then to wait to long , cuz once the buds dry,under 55rh ,there's no cure or coming back .....


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## grow tiger (Nov 26, 2014)

grow tiger said:


> Yea that's OK, if it read that high on your rh then just leave the buds out for 12-24 hours n put them back in n repeat till u get ur rh down, once 65%-68% rh in the jar then just burp them a couple times a day , just leave ur lid off for an hour or so ,move ur buds around in the jar n reseal it , as time goes on ,do it less n less till u get to the "cure zone" which u want it at 62 rh ..... U want to rather have did what u did then to wait to long , cuz once the buds dry,under 55rh ,there's no cure or coming back .....


UST remember ,too much humidity ,you could run into mold , it seams so much difficult than it is , once u do it ull see that and then ull have ur own opinions and different ways ull find that u personally like ta do, I'll tell you what people told me , read, learn ,and have fun, don't close ur mind to other methods once u find yours .... I'd be on here reading for hours everyday n I just successfully free,harvest,and cured some of the best smoke around ..... Ended up not donateing nothing, just enjoyed the work I put in and it was the best feeling in the world


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## That guy with no name (Dec 1, 2014)

So I keep having the same consistent cure every time but the problem is it's not great - 

it will smell awesome in the jar but not like anything I've had in 20 yrs of smoking - 
it gets like a spicy/earthy/coffe smell - not grassy at all and not like any bud i can remember smelling (not skunky) and not musty - but when you take a single nug out of the jar it does smell a little musty and that's the only smell you get - when you break a bud tho it is piney/skunky excellent smelling - 

I only have a couple grows I've ever done so not much practice drying and curing - what am I doing wrong? 

I'm cutting the last bits of critical kush that were grown in soil with go nutes - rh is not stable here like 30-90% but most of the time I have been drying has been 40-60% except a random 90% half a day here and there - so I have been drying until outside is crispy/dry and then jarring with hygrometer in a 55-60% room - if rh in jar would go up to 67 or 68 I would take back out and bag or rack until the full jar will stabilize at 63-65 and then air for just a few min a day and get the same so so result - 

hope I have given enough info for someone to spot what I'm missing - I'm still having problems that's for sure - also anyone have a specific rh that is best to use after initial harvest and trim while it's on racks or hanging or whatever (racks for me) 

thx so much to whoever can help - so frustrated cause the grow went so well


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## ULEN (Dec 1, 2014)

I have a jar curing I thought had mold because of the smell.

I just broke down a nug from it to smoke and it smells like straight dab. It's pretty strong smelling cause I normally can't smell a thing.

This time I increased my drying time to 10 days. Made it much easier to trim and gave it less of a grass smell than previous harvest.


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## brewster81 (Dec 23, 2014)

SimonD said:


> This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.
> 
> It's a very simple and effective process:
> 
> ...


Hey Simon, I like this process you've listed here and I plan on using it on my next harvest. Here's my problem, any input is appreciated. I'm looking at having to cure 2lbs+ at one time. Now in the past I've used mason jars, however it was for a much smaller quantity. I'm thinking about purchasing caliber 3 hygrometer(s) to use as you said, however one for every mason jar isn't an option at 45$ a piece. I've read that using plastic containers such as Tupperware will not give you the same result as glass jars as they don't possess the same impermeable properties like glass jars. My question to you and anyone else with an idea is, how would you deal with this situation? Would you buy a hygrometer for each jar? Can I have a hygrometer in one jar and assume the humidity level of the jars without hygrometers would be relatively the same with good results? Obviously a bigger container is the answer, however finding a jar large enough seems to be a problem... What is everyone else doing with large take down quantities. I'm pretty new to this game and I appreciate any input from the more experienced growers. I'd like to avoid ruining my product with a dumb mistake. Thanks again in advance.


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## grow tiger (Dec 23, 2014)

brewster81 said:


> Hey Simon, I like this process you've listed here and I plan on using it on my next harvest. Here's my problem, any input is appreciated. I'm looking at having to cure 2lbs+ at one time. Now in the past I've used mason jars, however it was for a much smaller quantity. I'm thinking about purchasing caliber 3 hygrometer(s) to use as you said, however one for every mason jar isn't an option at 45$ a piece. I've read that using plastic containers such as Tupperware will not give you the same result as glass jars as they don't possess the same impermeable properties like glass jars. My question to you and anyone else with an idea is, how would you deal with this situation? Would you buy a hygrometer for each jar? Can I have a hygrometer in one jar and assume the humidity level of the jars without hygrometers would be relatively the same with good results? Obviously a bigger container is the answer, however finding a jar large enough seems to be a problem... What is everyone else doing with large take down quantities. I'm pretty new to this game and I appreciate any input from the more experienced growers. I'd like to avoid ruining my product with a dumb mistake. Thanks again in advance.


I bought a 3 dollar humidity reader from a pet store, they use em for reptiles to know the humidity, fits right in the jar n is I think more accurate then a digital one, over time I think the digital ones loose there calibration... I had the same problem n this is how I solved it and very cheap but accurate


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## WeekendSupervisor (Dec 23, 2014)

They sell larger glass jars. Also, the newer Caliber IV is $25 each free shipping if you purchase more than one on amazon. I don't know what the differences are between the iii/iv.
edit: I had 4 jars this season, 3 meters, honestly they were packed so similarly, I could have estimated the other 3 with one good meter. But don't be cheap. This part is so damn important.


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## brewster81 (Dec 23, 2014)

grow tiger said:


> I bought a 3 dollar humidity reader from a pet store, they use em for reptiles to know the humidity, fits right in the jar n is I think more accurate then a digital one, over time I think the digital ones loose there calibration... I had the same problem n this is how I solved it and very cheap but accurate



Good idea, I'll have to check the local pet stores for that kind of hygrometer.


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## brewster81 (Dec 23, 2014)

WeekendSupervisor said:


> They sell larger glass jars. Also, the newer Caliber IV is $25 each free shipping if you purchase more than one on amazon. I don't know what the differences are between the iii/iv.
> edit: I had 4 jars this season, 3 meters, honestly they were packed so similarly, I could have estimated the other 3 with one good meter. But don't be cheap. This part is so damn important.


Yeah I seen the calibre iv on Amazon but unfortunately our prices up here in the northern half of the Americas are quite a bit higher on Amazon. Amazon.com is so much better than Amazon.ca ... As far as I know we're stuck ordering from Amazon.ca north of the border. But you're definitely right, a guy can't be cheaping out on this process..


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## bellcore (Jan 1, 2015)

Here is a nice cheapy http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00026053Y/ref=gno_cart_title_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER


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## hellmutt bones (Jan 1, 2015)

I have noticed that the bud gets better with time. The color does brown forthemost part but the taste is better? Ive had some but in jars for over 2years and they taste better! The high is the same.
color is brownish but the taste is better. Could it b? Am i doing something wrong? Cant i have the best of 3 worlds?


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## whitey78 (Jan 2, 2015)

My suggestion would be to get your buds into the "cure zone" using the techniques here in larger buckets or whatever and then once they are curing and safe to the point of not being moldy.... I would then put the buds into your jars for the final portion of your curing...Or find some better acrylic containers at a chef supply.... But I would personally get the nugs into the safe/cure zone and then jar them for the final portion if you really wanna stick with glass.. Good luck..

I did not have time to read this entire thread but it seems that the same "issues" and "problems" keep coming up but I think they're more like misunderstandings...

If your house where you will be curing your buds is permanently above 70% RH..... there is no possible way to bring your buds down to 55-60%... because honestly, for the Moe-Ron that had a drying room and not a curing room.... you gotta be dumber than a rock... keep on doing things the way you are, better growers will supply the ones you cant... but for the most part, curing is more important than drying however they essentially require the same conditions so I have no possible clue why these cant be done in the same room but hey.... you know what youre doing... I definitely dont... 

But first off...you need to dedicate a space like a bedroom or wherever you would like to store and cure your buds safely or roll around in them naked or whatever is you do with your buds... and purchase and plug in a device called a "DE-humidifier"... They're these wild and crazy devices that will bring DOWN the humidity to a desired level in a pretty large area if need be... you can even buy more than one and they'll do more sq. footage... insane right?.... But lets say turn it on and bring down the RH to anywhere below 50% for shits and giggles... Store your jars/containers wherever ... And when you think its the appropriate time to bring the RH levels down to 45-50% in the jar... so they have some breathing room depending on where you are in the curing process obviously, you pop the top in the room where the RH is appropriate and figure it out.. But the area where you open the jars/containers needs to be less than whats inside the jars... if you cant make that connection, I really have no idea how you've manged to get old enough to read without walking in front of a train.... thats been blowing its horn for a really long time.... But seriously? if the room has a higher RH than your jars, How could opening them in said room; ever lower the RH in the jars and cure your buds? They are going to be moldy all of the time... 

For those that dont understand why their buds arent so primo once they get into the "cure zone"... its because even though its in the "cure zone" based on the hygro..... it still needs to cure until the chlorophyll breaks down and that hay/ammonia smell is gone when you open the jars... Once you get into the "cure zone"... the longer you go between opening the container the better but a week at a time between opening it once in the curing zone would be good probably, the same methods that you used prior to having a hygro still apply but now you know its safe to leave the jar/container closed for a week at a time... I would suggest 2-3 weeks minimum (overall).. but then again... I have not completed my first go round with this method so I'll post back when I'm satisfied... But the strain and a host of other factors are going to dictate how long you will need to cure in your situation...

This process does not shorten the curing process, it makes it fool proof and more accurate, you are getting your buds into a curing stage more accurately and it takes the guess work out of knowing if they're gonna get moldy or not.... However, It still requires the time for curing... If your buds arent as aromatic or whatever you think theyre missing.... chances are you need more time... I decided to make a top that fit into my mason jar lids and I found that the jar lids leak like a bitch if you dont replace them once in a while and were the cause of me having shitty tasting herb for the past couple grows... The jars kept enough moisture in to cure them enough that they wouldnt turn to dust basically but i decided to try a new option and this one is pretty sound if you ask me...

I think most people that miss the point of this thread think that once you get the buds into the "cure zone" based on the hygro, that means the buds are cured... it just means they're in the process OF curing... your nose/sense of judgement is what says ok "its cured XX amount of days now... they dont smell like hay anymore" or whatever the fuck it is you feel like saying at that moment.....


Also for the people that arent 100% up to speed on drying...

I understand that a lot of you are just starting out and not everyone has the coin to setup a special room (I definitely dont thats for damn sure) but you have to be able to dedicate an area that you can get the temp and humidity pretty close to optimal for drying... 70 degrees and 50 to 55% humidity is where its at... I told a friend this and he happened to be going on vacation when he was just getting done with his first grow... I told him it takes about 5-7 days usually and the room needs to be at 70 degrees and 50% humidity... He turned the heat on 70, and put a commercial dehumidifier on 50% wherever he was doing this..... and went on vacation.... needless to say he came back to nothing but crunchy bud that turned to dust.... 

But the moral of that story is.... you may need to incorporate a HUMIDIFIER as well to balance out the situation... or a couple of 5 gallon buckets with an airstone and some water... as long as the dehumidifier is running it will maintain the appropriate levels with the buckets... I used a 4x4 tent with a drying rack and 1 water bucket/airstone and a dehuey was perfect... But you need to keep the temps at or below 70... the more above 70 you go, you need to increase the humidity... I dont wanna get into "my calculations" of what I think is safe for drying when dealing with higher temps but I would suggest keeping RH at or below 60% but my thoughts are +5% RH for every 2 degrees above 70... I dont like living that way but in the summer I have to deal with heat issues myself.. However, also is true for the opposite... if the temp is lower you can cheat with lower humidity (slightly... very slightly) as well and it will keep drying times on sch... . All boils down to experience... but again.. 70 degrees and 50% RH is on the money for drying... this will usually take anywhere between 3 and 7 days... I tend to lean towards slower is better but 90% of my plants dry in 5 days or less but bud density etc... will all be factors as well as how much stem you leave..

I see postings of what people are doing as far as keeping the plants in the dark for 3 days and watering with pixy dust 2 weeks before harvest....waving a magic wand in front of the plant 3 times, spin around a couple times and say rubber baby bubby bumpers 5 times fast before you light a fart on fire and say "by the power of grayskull...... I have the power"....Come on people... Think green and get serious.... 

People... Grow your plants properly... if you use synthetics... "rinse" your dirt or whatever it is thats required... but let the plants dry out the best you can (outdoor growers cant always do this)... usually try to time it where the lights are just about to come on and the plant would need a watering... if you normally water your plants are the "right" time (cough cough morning... or simulated morning cough...) this will not be a problem... If you wanna let your plants sit in the dark for 24-48 hours... go for it... but when a plant is done.... its done... wait for the pistils to brown and retract.... once the pistils retract and the calyx's swell.... get your scope out and check the trichs... when you get your desired trich color, you harvest the next time the plant would require water first thing in the am...

But letting it sit for several days before cutting it down is kinda crazy... 24 hours I can see but anymore than that is a waste of time... There is too much variation in growing for any "home" growers without a PHD to tell me that letting a plant sit in the dark increases resin production... Letting the plant run out of water almost to the point of what would normally lead to death is more important than letting it sit in the dark feeling punished... lol.. to me anyhow.. It also makes drying a little quicker as the plant has already started drying but too long will make it tough to trim... 

Trim it, hang it (in your 70/50% room) for however long it takes and follow the methods in this thread and as stated by the OG poster.... you will grow connie nugs erry-time.... I am trying it for the first time, and so shittily so happens to be my "last time" for a while and I can already tell this method is a winner and I wished I started using it sooner...

Also FYI... I used a 2 gallon bucket and lid ($5-6), as well as a $8 hygrometer/thermometer from home depot along with some light plastic epoxy that I sealed the square hygros into the lid... This worked out perfect for like a 4-6zipper plant.. These containers can be made with any hygrometer, into basically any sized container as long as your capable of installing the hygro into the lid and sealing it appropriately to it without removing any of your fingers... its pretty easy and a little thought will go a long way... Personally, when I get back into growing I will be going to a "chef" supply store and getting a better grade of plastic type containers (they have squares, round, octagon.... basically any fargin shape you want) with a better lid... Also some loctite "heavy duty" epoxy worked perfect for sealing it and its not anything that will every come off into my nuggage... 

Thanks again to the original poster and the other contributors...


----------



## America Spearit (Jan 14, 2015)

Whitney, thank you. For basically putting into layman's terms. Second grow in canna/hydro, 24 plants first real cure. Room is 72 and the RH is 57 with a small box fan. Half still on a drying rack, lower half of plants, others in 1/2 gallon ball jars. One jar in the zone, 12 jars are opened and at 69_ 70.rh. people it took me a solid week of back and forth, but a cold front came in, got the room temp right, and things are going smoothly. I think a lot of growers overlook the drying room temperature. I was able to have the time to work with them. Under dry is better IMO. Pain in the ass, back and forth, but the RH Will get there. Be patient. We did end up with 6#'s of cannabutter. But that's for another thread. BTW, 24 plants was a part-time job. Shitload of work and expensive to grow in canna.


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## lucytacos (Feb 26, 2015)

The perfect way to ruin you crop. Wow.. To wet! Will turn brown in short time or mold out. What crack are you smoking. From the very first line you are wrong. Can't even make sense of that first sentence. Here it is:

"Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside"

For long storage if your bud is not real dry, and I mean real dry it will rot in one way or another in a few months. 
Brown is not gold btw. It is garbage.
Any water left in your stored buds will ruin the buds in storage so to repeat this is in no way a good way..




SimonD said:


> This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.
> 
> It's a very simple and effective process:
> 
> ...


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## StonedSandwich (Feb 27, 2015)

thanks for this. this is exactly what I was looking for!


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## daybreaker (Feb 28, 2015)

sheeit - hang it til it snaps and smoke dat shit.cureing can ruin bud if done incorrectly.snapitsmokeit..


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## trontreez (Feb 28, 2015)

I don't suppose anyone knows of a completely Stainless steel or glass hygrometer for sale ? Doesn't matter if it's analog or digital just as long as the outer casing materials are relatively inert. I'm trying to eliminate as much plastic from my life as possible and the same goes for my prized homegrown.
Thanks


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## grow tiger (Feb 28, 2015)

That guy with no name said:


> Hey guys - am pretty new to growing and curing - was just wondering could this be made more simple by just saying dry your bud until rh reads 60-65% when sealed in a jar and then leave it alone for as long as possible or until needed? I'm just not 100% on when and why to ever open the jar other than needing to dry more because it's still over 65% rh. Will I have problems leaving a jar sealed at 64/65% for an extended period or must it be under 60% for that? Thanks - hope someone can clear that up for me and sorry if this has been mentioned before


gotta learn what cureing actually is .... I dnt wanna get into it to much cuz its all over the forums but the point is to dry slow as possible n when it feels dry on the outside u want to keep like 15 % moister inside the bud... You put it in a glass jar when u think there ready , seal it n leave it fover night... If ur RH reads anything in the 70s just leave all ur buds out of the jar over night .then do it again. Once u get it to like 65% u just open the jar and burp the buds ,putting new oxygen in the jar. Its like a light cycle, u open the jar n burp it for like an hour a day. The point is to SLOWLY DRY N CURE ur buds as slow as possible.... There's alot of science that goes into curing, u can simplify it but u should understand exactly what n y ur doing it to fully understand the cureing prosess


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## grow tiger (Feb 28, 2015)

damn dude that's why bud tastes life hay or green n its harsh or smcrackles when u smoke, drah the most important part of growing is the dry and cure prossess , three months plus of growing is for nothing if its not cured right .... U need to google cureing n gas xfer. ... IV known people to cure there bud for a year and one hit n it was the highest IV ever been .... And it was smooth ,tasted amazing , burned evenly , get facts befor u put bad info on here n noobies trying to get answered r gonna think once thebe grown there done


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## grow tiger (Feb 28, 2015)

its like saying ohhhh why would u let wine age, drink that shit now, the smoothness,taste and potenicy cureing does is amazing


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## whitey78 (Mar 8, 2015)

lucytacos said:


> The perfect way to ruin you crop. Wow.. To wet! Will turn brown in short time or mold out. What crack are you smoking. From the very first line you are wrong. Can't even make sense of that first sentence. Here it is:
> 
> "Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside"
> 
> ...


What crack are you smoking my friend? 

"For long storage if your bud is not real dry, and I mean real dry it will rot in one way or another in a few months." 

Whats "real dry" to you? Can you put a # on that? Any form of description besides "real dry"? If you realized we are all talking %'s of RH (humidity) and temps.... If you removed all the moisture from the buds we smoke, you would have a jar of dust.... Not a jar of buds... It needs to maintain some moisture, and the methods in this post have been proven time over by the users here... 

So move on, or read on..... and learn some more before you make

statements like that on a 23 page sticky... Its bad enough theres so much conflicting (false) information out on the internet about growing... we dont need people like you fucking up the good information...




America Spearit said:


> Whitney, thank you. For basically putting into layman's terms. Second grow in canna/hydro, 24 plants first real cure. Room is 72 and the RH is 57 with a small box fan. Half still on a drying rack, lower half of plants, others in 1/2 gallon ball jars. One jar in the zone, 12 jars are opened and at 69_ 70.rh. people it took me a solid week of back and forth, but a cold front came in, got the room temp right, and things are going smoothly. I think a lot of growers overlook the drying room temperature. I was able to have the time to work with them. Under dry is better IMO. Pain in the ass, back and forth, but the RH Will get there. Be patient. We did end up with 6#'s of cannabutter. But that's for another thread. BTW, 24 plants was a part-time job. Shitload of work and expensive to grow in canna.


I do my best, sometimes I make things worse... All parts of the grow are necessary and important but the point of harvest, drying, and curing are kinda the most important if you've successfully made it there... Its where you can blow your whole crop in 24 hours or less if you arent on your game. I got sick a few weeks ago after harvesting a beautiful SAGE plant with a couple donkey dicks on her... I had it in the drying tent for 2 days the morning I woke up puking my brains out... I couldnt get out of bed if I wanted to, but I figured because it was only in for 2 days that being day 3... I'd be ok... I didnt close the drying tent all the way... the heat in the room was on and running exessively because it was literally below 0 out and when i got back in there to check on things the following day, the tent was running 30% RH and 73 degrees... needless to say I barely salvaged it... I threw it into the bucket and it ran up to about 50% RH after 4 days of being in the buckets so it was screwed... But it got me high as all hell, it just didnt taste so hot and was crunchy-ish...


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## perry420 (Mar 30, 2015)

SimonD said:


> Heh, it's as if folks would rater argue than grow lots of bud. When I started out, I identified a number of growers I wanted to learn from, shut my mouth and listened for a hell of a long time, while putting in the hours in my own garden. Here, the less experience you have, the louder you are. No thanks.
> 
> Simon


You hit the nail on the motha fuckin head my man


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## moonstar45 (Apr 4, 2015)

question, at what RH levels would you guys stop burping your weed?

i'm kinda of thinking since i already put them in jars, i'll keep on burping (30 minutes to an hour a day) until i reach a stabilized 62% RH. (it's increasing at a slow pace 60+++ so i can't really tell at what its true RH is since it's still sweating in the jars)

but when it reaches 62% stabilized, i can just leave my jars closed and won't have to burp right? and it would be for long term storage.

(62% came from the boveda site and the growweedeasy site and since i haven't found details on the actual science for the 62% number)


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## qwizoking (Apr 4, 2015)

Theres more to the cure than holding a %
As to science.. well you gotta wait till morning for that from me


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## whitey78 (Apr 6, 2015)

moonstar45 said:


> question, at what RH levels would you guys stop burping your weed?
> 
> i'm kinda of thinking since i already put them in jars, i'll keep on burping (30 minutes to an hour a day) until i reach a stabilized 62% RH. (it's increasing at a slow pace 60+++ so i can't really tell at what its true RH is since it's still sweating in the jars)
> 
> ...



Once your in the "cure zone" (60-65% RH for our purposes) you wanna burp the jars about once a week. If you see the RH climbing beyond 65 into the 70's than you should burp the container sooner. But once you get the buds into the above mentioned "cure zone" you wanna keep the jars closed as long as possible; burping them once a week at that point until you no longer get the "hay/grass clipping" scent. 

You dont necessarily need to get so crazy about how long you open it, but you do wanna make sure you've changed out the air in the container.... while in a room that contains air that has a lower RH than whats in the jar already. When I move my buds to mason jars; I like to dump them out and let it all air out for a few minutes in one of those disposable baking trays.... shuffle the buds around a bit so the buds that were sitting at the bottom of the container arent back in the same place... I also try to keep my buds as uniform in size as possible when I do my final trim/chop up.... I love nothing more than hanging onto and curing the biggest and best looking buds the I end up with; but I'm learning the more uniform in size I chop my buds into, the better the cure goes and the more uniform the end result is. 

Long term storage of buds isnt a part of growing I've had to get into yet so I cant really comment on that part but based on the methods posted here in this thread, 55% is whats considered safe for long term I believe...

Also, a few things I've stated and would like to make mention of... Buy the better hygro's as first mentioned by the og poster.... In a jam or short on funds do what you have to but sometimes I wonder if the $12 wonders I bought are correct.... If you are going to try it and arent a DIY'er, maybe do the cheapo version first to see how things go before buying an assload of $25 hygros.... but I will say after playing around with the cheaper ones and trying the methods and seeing them work........ I'll be buying the mo' betta hygros and making some new containers.


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## qwizoking (Apr 6, 2015)

Hmm forgot about this.


So basically
A percent of moisture is required to keep stomatas open and maintain gas exchange. Think of it like a cutting, its still alive. 40% is about the lower limit. During this process respiration and hydrolysis break down the plant...
Causing
Reduction in Chlorophyll content, doesn't taste like smoking veggies
Reduction in plant starch content,and sugars, creating a smooth smoke that will just expand nicely in your lungs, won't even feel it go down
Reduction in nitrate levels,less carcinogenic, always good right and cleaner taste/high
polycyclic aromatization and oxidation of terpenoids altering the flavor profile more robust with a lower ppm sensory threshold , less perfumey even soapy or "green" from corresponding aldehydes and ketones
Reduction of and consistent moisture content, even slow burn and no smoldering or black ash unwilling to burn

This is an aerobic process obviously, you dont want to just jar at the right rh.
Mold of any type wont typically grow under 60%. You want as much moisture as possible without it molding and good airflow, along with low temps- low 70's. Higher temps volatize terps and speed the bacterial break down of the plant, thats what makes brick weed yellow then turn brown and can give a foul odor, you want the plant to break it down.
The hay smell is of a similar process. But from a lack of oxygen, doesnt matter when you chop or what strain. It should never smell like that. Ever. My plants smell like dank all the way through. the "hay" smell is from nitrogen sugars cellulose, starch, etc breaking down anaerobically with the high moisture content. It begins to ferment. This releases ammonia and acids giving the foul odor.
Up rh (instead of jarring and burping) lower temps, and increase airflow is the general prescription.


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## Indian Spices (Apr 28, 2015)

I did my jaring without RH-meters a few years back... but I had time to check my jars all day long.

now I do use RH-meters! is so convenient!

i like my perfect smoke at 62% rehydrated.

I let them cure (two - three months) and then dry them to about 57-58%. after that, I put a boveda pack in the jar to get it back up tp 62% for my personal perfect smoke (I roll my joint with a cannabis/tobacco mix and use long papers not little ones for cigarettes)

the cure give the buds a smooth taste and its different to keep them at 62% and smoke or to cure let the nugs get drier and rehydrate... my personal experience



ps: I let my plants dry as a whole... if you have a special room for drying, you may be able to cure it as a complete plant, without cutting it apart!!

great stuff!

but I never had the place dedicated for drying only, so I will cut fan leaves as soon as they have shriveld up a bit. but not all of them. some are good to protect your buds 

when the plant/ buds are dry to the touch... I talk about some of the lower buds... they tend to be best for checking that (the plant will evenly distribute the moisture), because I dont like to press my good buds to know how much water is inside... 

then I trim and jar! I also jar trim with lots of resin for hash... cured trim is always better. but you can paperbag the trim too, just dont let it get to dry before processing/ or use ice water technique


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## grow tiger (May 4, 2015)

Indian Spices said:


> I did my jaring without RH-meters a few years back... but I had time to check my jars all day long.
> 
> now I do use RH-meters! is so convenient!
> 
> ...


Idk bro , u do things a lidttle backwords n weird....... iv never herd of anything uv said ..... its as simple as hanging ur plant whole upsidedown , after about 5 days I trim all the fanleaves n gibgive her just a quick trim, within two days or more ( whenever the budz feel dry on the outside and the stem snaps but not in half all the way ) . Then do a real good manicure, get all the sugar leaves off n make the buds look nice..... then jar the buds with a rh meter or me I paid 5 $ for a humidity gage from the pet shop (they use em for reptiles) close ur masen jar , wait like 12 hours to get a good read... if ur rh reads 70% or higher u just take the budz out for a few hours n put em back n close it up.. continue doing this untill u can het it ro about 65rh n then just burp it omce a day for a week then maybe twice in 2 weeks n when u get it inbetween 60 and 64% rh , ur at ur cure zone n let it do its thing ... open it and awitch air every week and ull have smoother , non harsh n the tastiest bud ever. The longer u cure it the better it tastes n smells..... good luck everyone but id fallow these simple steps n ull have the best smellin dank ever


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## Indian Spices (May 4, 2015)

grow tiger said:


> Idk bro , u do things a lidttle backwords n weird....... iv never herd of anything uv said ..... its as simple as hanging ur plant whole upsidedown , after about 5 days I trim all the fanleaves n gibgive her just a quick trim, within two days or more ( whenever the budz feel dry on the outside and the stem snaps but not in half all the way ) . Then do a real good manicure, get all the sugar leaves off n make the buds look nice..... then jar the buds with a rh meter or me I paid 5 $ for a humidity gage from the pet shop (they use em for reptiles) close ur masen jar , wait like 12 hours to get a good read... if ur rh reads 70% or higher u just take the budz out for a few hours n put em back n close it up.. continue doing this untill u can het it ro about 65rh n then just burp it omce a day for a week then maybe twice in 2 weeks n when u get it inbetween 60 and 64% rh , ur at ur cure zone n let it do its thing ... open it and awitch air every week and ull have smoother , non harsh n the tastiest bud ever. The longer u cure it the better it tastes n smells..... good luck everyone but id fallow these simple steps n ull have the best smellin dank ever


the only real difference in your steps and mine is the last step. after curing and if my buds go below 62%.. i rehydrate them because i like it that way.


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## avnewb (May 7, 2015)

grow tiger said:


> Idk bro , u do things a lidttle backwords n weird....... iv never herd of anything uv said ..... its as simple as hanging ur plant whole upsidedown , after about 5 days I trim all the fanleaves n gibgive her just a quick trim, within two days or more ( whenever the budz feel dry on the outside and the stem snaps but not in half all the way ) . Then do a real good manicure, get all the sugar leaves off n make the buds look nice..... then jar the buds with a rh meter or me I paid 5 $ for a humidity gage from the pet shop (they use em for reptiles) close ur masen jar , wait like 12 hours to get a good read... if ur rh reads 70% or higher u just take the budz out for a few hours n put em back n close it up.. continue doing this untill u can het it ro about 65rh n then just burp it omce a day for a week then maybe twice in 2 weeks n when u get it inbetween 60 and 64% rh , ur at ur cure zone n let it do its thing ... open it and awitch air every week and ull have smoother , non harsh n the tastiest bud ever. The longer u cure it the better it tastes n smells..... good luck everyone but id fallow these simple steps n ull have the best smellin dank ever


I had planed to cut whole plant do this but think I need to cut tops and let some lower ones finish. 
Where do I get the relitive humidity readers?


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## GrowPops (May 20, 2015)

avnewb said:


> I had planed to cut whole plant do this but think I need to cut tops and let some lower ones finish.
> Where do I get the relitive humidity readers?


I never used a meter just my fingers and nose. I will be picking one up at the* pet store* when I get crickets for the monster lizard. I will do a side by side with the partner using the meter on the same plant....Luckily MY Pineapple Kush will need multiple jars


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## grow tiger (May 23, 2015)

GrowPops said:


> I never used a meter just my fingers and nose. I will be picking one up at the* pet store* when I get crickets for the monster lizard. I will do a side by side with the partner using the meter on the same plant....Luckily MY Pineapple Kush will need multiple jars


Yea everyone says u gotta buy this high expensive digital rh meter, I spent 3 dollars on a reptile one n put 4 of them in one masen jar n every one read the same .... Personly I did the same thing, touch n smell untill I was at the pet store n said hey y not just try it .. N I've been useing them ever since. Good luck n happy growing


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## grow tiger (May 23, 2015)

Indian Spices said:


> the only real difference in your steps and mine is the last step. after curing and if my buds go below 62%.. i rehydrate them because i like it that way.


I just was told by very experienced groweres that u can't put the moister back in a bud, once u drop below 58 -55 if dried it to much n the curing process is done... Yes u can get the humidity in the jar back to 62 but ur not putting moisture back in the buds


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## GrowPops (May 23, 2015)

grow tiger said:


> Yea everyone says u gotta buy this high expensive digital rh meter, I spent 3 dollars on a reptile one n put 4 of them in one masen jar n every one read the same .... Personly I did the same thing, touch n smell untill I was at the pet store n said hey y not just try it .. N I've been useing them ever since. Good luck n happy growing


I will be trying one this time also. as a control to check myself. LOL


grow tiger said:


> I just was told by very experienced groweres that u can't put the moister back in a bud, once u drop below 58 -55 if dried it to much n the curing process is done... Yes u can get the humidity in the jar back to 62 but ur not putting moisture back in the buds


That has been my experience also.


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## laubs (May 24, 2015)

daybreaker said:


> yup your right.i tried the holes in the lid thing and it aint happenen.Im back to the ol hang it til its bone,then the jar cure just like I always did.if it aint broke don't fix it.


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## laubs (May 24, 2015)

MrStickyScissors said:


> I cut of all the fan leaves right before I chop all the plants down cause it seems easier. Then I hang them upside down all over the house to where you can't even walk around lol. A fan on low not blowing on the plants but circulating the air. I wait tell they a all the way dry then I trim. Tastes and smells amazing for months to come. Wa la


Thanks Mr stickyscissor that helps


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## MrStickyScissors (May 26, 2015)

laubs said:


> Thanks Mr stickyscissor that helps


no problem. hope you walk away with some fire fire


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## GreenStick85 (Jun 13, 2015)

SimonD said:


> Both are strain-dependent properties. As the product cures, chlorophyll and its byproducts diminish and the true colors come out. Some bud is red, some is brown, some is gold-like, and some is brown. Off the top of my head, Nirvana's Shiva stays green as does Next Gen's Grapefruit. Same goes for the smell, though to be perfectly honest I've yet to cure anything that didn't have an easily identifiable scent.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Simon when you say about pot true colors, I am reminded of this Blueberry strain that was UNREal, its been over 5 years since smoking it and I have the fond memory of it.
The first was the color being a blend of gold and blue, blue being all over the underside of the bud leaves. Gold everywhere else. A perfect 10
For me if there ever was one.


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## laubs (Jun 13, 2015)

G


MrStickyScissors said:


> no problem. hope you walk away with some fire fire[/
> ]
> going.to give power skunk, super sour of and bubble bomb a go, any experience with these?


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## laubs (Jun 13, 2015)

laubs said:


> G


Super sour og


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## laubs (Jun 13, 2015)

Going to try power skunk. Super sour og and bubble bomb. Amy experience with these?


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## TrichGnome (Jun 14, 2015)

Drying in this fashion would be detrimental to the texture, smell, and apearence of the final bud. Now I know why half the weed in colorado looks and smells the same.


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## qwizoking (Jun 14, 2015)

What fashion are you referring?


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## TrichGnome (Jun 14, 2015)

Well, to start trimming befor the dry, relying on an out dated piece of equipment when your new to the game, plus everyone's humidity levels are different in thier drying rooms. That method may not work so well say in the desert, you could end up with hay over night with no humidifier. Air circulation type is very important. But I think using the leaves and trim as a guage on how fast your plants are drying is most important.


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## MrStickyScissors (Jun 15, 2015)

I stick to the basics. grand daddy, querckle, blue dream, train wreck, romulan


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## laubs (Jun 15, 2015)

Great thanks!


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## TrichGnome (Jul 2, 2015)

I got this bad ass moby dick indica leaning pheno I picked out the pack. She stays short and compact in veg with even blade to leaf ratio. Though its just as vigerous as a sativa with leaf formation minus the stretch. Then in flower she decides to rock out with a blue dream style stretch and buds sets hard and fast like a indica until 75 days flushed when she's got purple hues all on her (they havnt stayed past the cure yet, just look a lil darker) . Only did one run with her so far but but I'm excited to get these girl scout cookies, hash plant, and pre 98 bubba in jars so I can dedicate more time and research to something fun.


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## Kind Sir (Jul 7, 2015)

Even if you only have 1 hygrometer, would thr jars be same rh if ssme strain\weight is in jar? Even if thats not the case, couldnt you use one hygrometer to test them all. Only a handful of jars with few oz wouldnt be an issue?


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## BarnBuster (Jul 7, 2015)

I've had variance from one jar to the next. bud density, stem size, etc..


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## Kind Sir (Jul 7, 2015)

Definitely man I was thi king that, 
I can obviously check each jar with one meter, one came out at 58%


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## laubs (Jul 7, 2015)

Kind Sir said:


> Definitely man I was thi king that,
> I can obviously check each jar with one meter, one came out at 58%[/QU


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## laubs (Jul 7, 2015)

Interesting thread great info


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## thewanderer718 (Jul 11, 2015)

I am two weeks away from cropping my Pyramid Auto Blue gonna try your method. Thank you


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## mouse1818 (Jul 21, 2015)

obijohn said:


> Ive done this for several years this way. I air out the jars so they aren't moist long term, and it smooths out the smoke. But after several months the buds all turn brown. And, I don't have that sweet skunky smell, usually little smell at all. The potency is good, but why can't I keep the nice aroma and greenish color?


I guess its like an apple you cut it open and the flesh is exposed to air and turns brown.


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## qwizoking (Jul 22, 2015)

Lol, who you talkin too


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## mouse1818 (Jul 22, 2015)

qwizoking said:


> Lol, who you talkin too


I was replying to obijohn.


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## qwizoking (Jul 22, 2015)

Well im sure he'll appreciate your profound insight 3 years later


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## mouse1818 (Jul 22, 2015)

qwizoking said:


> Well im sure he'll appreciate your profound insight 3 years later


Oh shit lol.. I found this post from google search and I just read all the posts and lose track of time.


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## Tree's Inc. (Jul 30, 2015)

SimonD said:


> This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out,  those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.
> 
> It's a very simple and effective process:
> 
> ...


Is it better to dry as a whole plant upside down or to groom the nugs in a dehygerating net. And is it better to cut water leaves off at harvest or keep them on during the drying stage. I'm not looking for the easy way just the best. Thank you in advance


----------



## mellow j (Jul 31, 2015)

SimoD said:


> Heh, it's as if folks would rater argue than grow lots of bud. When I started out, I identified a number of growers I wanted to learn from, shut my mouth and listened for a hell of a long time, while putting in the hours in my own garden. Here, the less experience you have, the louder you are. No thanks.
> 
> Simon


Right on my brother. Im just listening away. Trying to avoid the hay.


----------



## qwizoking (Jul 31, 2015)

Tree's Inc. said:


> Is it better to dry as a whole plant upside down or to groom the nugs in a dehygerating net. And is it better to cut water leaves off at harvest or keep them on during the drying stage. I'm not looking for the easy way just the best. Thank you in advance


Whole plant.

Trim wet.


----------



## mellow j (Jul 31, 2015)

qwiztoking said:


> Whole plant.
> 
> Trim wet.


Hey qwizoking! It's been a while.
My Bubba died on me bro. Ph got away from me. 

My Northern Lights is finishing up nice though. I topped once, and Lstd it. It was my first time lsting and have found my style. Thanks for all the help along the way...
Rep


----------



## mellow j (Jul 31, 2015)

qwizoking said:


> Whole plant.
> 
> Trim wet.


20 days left


----------



## OGAerogardener1990 (Jul 31, 2015)

Wisedog87 said:


> I actually found a way to keep bud moist enough but not too moist. You add a small piece of celery wrapped in a thin paper towel. I found out from a guy who has been growing for a LONG time. It efficiently regulates a low moisture environment, been doing it ever since. These babies have been waiting about 6 months now, smoothest smoke around!
> Cheers View attachment 2417864


Gorgeous


----------



## OGAerogardener1990 (Jul 31, 2015)

no clue said:


> My house is dry in winter and the humidity in my jars seems to fluctuate according to the ambient humidity in the house. Humidity varies from 58 to 64 depending on the day. Is this a concern?View attachment 2419546


Sexy


----------



## Zzyphr (Aug 18, 2015)

When discussing the curing process, the discussion has been the RH of cured bud, the temp and RH of a curing room, but I can't seem to find any reference to the temp/RH for cured bud. For example, if at 70 degrees, the RH should be 60%, doesn't this indicate that at a temp of 74 degrees, the amount of water in the jar would register something like an RH of 63% or so? It would be the same water content, but different RH.
Over thinking?
My cure is to about RH 62% at 74 degrees and finally vacuum seal in glass jars for months with no apparent woes. For me, any lower RH and the buds are brittle way soon after cracking a jar. The original thread and some sage practical info from long time members has been appreciated many many bong times.


----------



## Zzyphr (Aug 19, 2015)

Got the direction backwards vs temp, but when I see cure to RH of 50%, I wonder at what temp because 50% would be brittle.


----------



## qwizoking (Aug 19, 2015)

nobody recommends 50.

also, quit vac sealing


----------



## Zzyphr (Aug 20, 2015)

Why no vac?


----------



## qwizoking (Aug 20, 2015)

1. it stops the cure
2. we are dealing with volatile compounds


----------



## Zzyphr (Aug 20, 2015)

Just for clarity, I'm vac'ing post cure for storage [62ish% at 74]. So, if so, you're saying just store and let the product create it's own environment in the jar.


----------



## qwizoking (Aug 20, 2015)

no...


----------



## DarthBlazeAnthony (Aug 21, 2015)

qwizoking said:


> 1. it stops the cure
> 2. we are dealing with volatile compounds


Is it possible to vac seal to inhibit the cure process and then resume the process at a later date? I was thinking to hang dry for a few days, vacuum seal the nugs, freeze the nugs, and then start the curing in a jar a few months from now.


----------



## qwizoking (Aug 21, 2015)

not really.
the bud is basically a cutting, holding stomatas open with rh and facilitating gas exchange with increased air flow breaks down the plant as wouod normally happen, but you arent replacing anything. the plant will shut down doing what yiu suggest , yiu can continue to cure somewhat, as far as the plant goes..

terps and what not will continue to cure. but scavenging o2 isnt really productive. theres no reason for it. you cant remove enough to inhibit mold or shut down certain processes.

besides the fact that yiu really shouldnt vac volatile compounds. i believe at 29.5-near full vac thc boils at the standard room temp.. other terps that already have a boiling point half of thc will dissipate readily. also, their vapor pressure will eventually remove the vac


----------



## Zzyphr (Aug 21, 2015)

So for long term storage, simply package and close [no vac]. Shelf life?


----------



## Cebucannabis (Aug 27, 2015)

How to keep my buds fresh, to keep it moistened, cuz after 3 weeks it looks so dry


----------



## OGAerogardener1990 (Aug 27, 2015)

Cebucannabis said:


> How to keep my buds fresh, to keep it moistened, cuz after 3 weeks it looks so dry


Is this homegrown or is it mexican nasty weed


----------



## Cebucannabis (Aug 27, 2015)

A homegrown, Philippines


OGAerogardener1990 said:


> Is this homegrown or is it mexican nasty weed


----------



## OGAerogardener1990 (Aug 27, 2015)

It looks brown


----------



## OGAerogardener1990 (Aug 27, 2015)

Not lime green


----------



## Cebucannabis (Aug 27, 2015)

sorry but you cant find any deym green color here, all brown or reddish.


----------



## OGAerogardener1990 (Aug 27, 2015)

Why ? Because phillipines is near the equator?


----------



## OGAerogardener1990 (Aug 27, 2015)

There must be some good genetics


----------



## qwizoking (Aug 27, 2015)

thats not true at all


----------



## DarthBlazeAnthony (Aug 27, 2015)

OGAerogardener1990 said:


> Not lime green


did you see this video?


----------



## OGAerogardener1990 (Aug 27, 2015)

qwizoking said:


> thats not true at all


?


----------



## qwizoking (Aug 27, 2015)

Cebucannabis said:


> sorry but you cant find any deym green color here, all brown or reddish.


my bad, shoulda quoted


----------



## Tree's Inc. (Aug 28, 2015)

Damn I'm glad I don't live in the phillipines.


----------



## Tree's Inc. (Aug 28, 2015)

Can't you order from a seed bank?


----------



## rocpilefsj (Aug 28, 2015)

Tree's Inc. said:


> Damn I'm glad I don't live in the phillipines.


Take a look at their marijuana laws especially for growing:

*Philippines*
In the Philippines, you don’t get much leeway either. The first time you’re caught smoking a joint you can be sent to rehab for at least six months. If you are persistent enough to try again, the next time could land you in jail for between six and twelve years. *If you get caught growing weed, you’re looking at anything from life imprisonment to the death penalty*. The Philippine Dangerous Drugs Actwill make your life a living hell. One man was jailed for 15 years after being caught with two “sticks” (assumedly meaning joints) of marijuana.

So before some of us start hacking on a guy maybe look and see what he is putting on the line by growing, never mind smoking a joint.


----------



## qwizoking (Aug 28, 2015)

everyone got shit on the line. one of my spots got raided last year. bail at $550,000, life sentence for two boys.

you cant even sell that here. how do indo get like that i dont know


----------



## Cebucannabis (Aug 29, 2015)

Tree's Inc. said:


> Can't you order from a seed bank?





Tree's Inc. said:


> Damn I'm glad I don't live in the phillipines.


i feel pity some of the foreigner here who want to smoke herb;
I know someone order a seed in amsterdam but only envelope he got cuz our fuckin Bureua Of Custom open, maybe thats the reason why we cant grow another strain, a best one!


----------



## qwizoking (Aug 30, 2015)

everyone gets seeds jacked through customs on occasion. learn how to do this properly or dont..,, and id take mex brick weed grown out over almost any seedbank seed. ladraces are where ots at imo

looking out for YOU on that one

anyway deuces


----------



## MidnightWolf (Sep 13, 2015)

first time grower getting close to harvest. was wondering best way to store buds, after cure, for longer term and what that term might be. Was going to vac seal and freeze but from what I'm reading here that isn't a good idea.


----------



## elkamino (Sep 13, 2015)

qwizoking said:


> id take mex brick weed grown out over almost any seedbank seed. ladraces are where ots at imo


Interesting! Mind sharing why that is? And what's you're experience with "finding the pheno?" I don't know... cuz I've never seen Mexi brick in Alaska.


----------



## OGAerogardener1990 (Sep 13, 2015)

elkamino said:


> Interesting! Mind sharing why that is? And what's you're experience with "finding the pheno?" I don't know... cuz I've never seen Mexi brick in Alaska.


Mexican is very dark and low quality , because it is smuggled into texas and everywhere else in engine oil, axle grease, and other hiding spots in vehicle that degrade the bud


----------



## OGAerogardener1990 (Sep 13, 2015)

But you go into mexico and have tgat same weed before its prepared for smuggling and its the best shit youve ever smoked, hues of purple orange. My friend went to mexico and came back to the u.s. with a dime bag hidden in some dirty clothes. Wow it was gorgeous bud looked like purple kush


----------



## Snakewake 1252 (Sep 16, 2015)

Out door was smelling dank now after cuting it smells like fresh cut hay or lawn clippings


----------



## OGAerogardener1990 (Sep 16, 2015)

Did you Cure it correctly?


----------



## Snakewake 1252 (Sep 16, 2015)

Cut trim hang 3rd day feels good to touch but only can smell if you push in on bud otherwise kind of hay smelk in the air


----------



## OGAerogardener1990 (Sep 16, 2015)

Snakewake 1252 said:


> Cut trim hang 3rd day feels good to touch but only can smell if you push in on bud otherwise kind of hay smelk in the air


Nothing wrong with hay


----------



## Snakewake 1252 (Sep 16, 2015)

Room temp between 71--81 degrees indirect air in room to keep air moving


----------



## Snakewake 1252 (Sep 16, 2015)

Thats your answer to the? ???


----------



## OGAerogardener1990 (Sep 16, 2015)

you probably trimmed fan leaves to quik


----------



## OGAerogardener1990 (Sep 16, 2015)

Watch this video.


----------



## DarthBlazeAnthony (Sep 16, 2015)

Snakewake 1252 said:


> Out door was smelling dank now after cuting it smells like fresh cut hay or lawn clippings


I hang dry for about 60 hrs then put in jars. If the humidity in the jar is over 70 then I leave the lids off for a day or 2 more. Not a proper curing method but it works for me.


----------



## DarthBlazeAnthony (Sep 16, 2015)

OGAerogardener1990 said:


> Watch this video.


Not everyone has room to hang dry an entire plant. I prefer to cut each branch and place on top of my scrog net for a couple days before jarring. Weedkabobs, anyone? Anyone?


----------



## Snakewake 1252 (Sep 18, 2015)

Thanks


----------



## Sidvicious13 (Sep 21, 2015)

I am a newbie. My plant is getting close to being finished and I don't know jack about the curing parT. So I am hoping these threads will help me out 

Thanks


----------



## DarthBlazeAnthony (Sep 22, 2015)

Sidvicious13 said:


> I am a newbie. My plant is getting close to being finished and I don't know jack about the curing parT. So I am hoping these threads will help me out
> 
> Thanks


I will try to answer any questions you have. As you can see, I am currently curing quite a few jars. Cheesey smurf, Cherry Pie, Girl Scout Cookies, and San Fernando Valley Kush.


----------



## thewanderer718 (Sep 22, 2015)

DarthBlazeAnthony said:


> I will try to answer any questions you have. As you can see, I am currently curing quite a few jars. Cheesey smurf, Cherry Pie, Girl Scout Cookies, and San Fernando Valley Kush.
> View attachment 3505531


They look great !!! good job.


----------



## ram21r (Sep 28, 2015)

I was wondering about something with using the hygrometer. My question is i would have about 6 or u so jars that i would be curing in so do i have to get 6 hygrometers for each one of those jars or whatt do i do? Thanks


----------



## borbor (Sep 28, 2015)

just swap one hygrometer lid across a bunch of different jars.


----------



## ram21r (Sep 28, 2015)

Ok thanks


----------



## DarthBlazeAnthony (Sep 29, 2015)

ram21r said:


> I was wondering about something with using the hygrometer. My question is i would have about 6 or u so jars that i would be curing in so do i have to get 6 hygrometers for each one of those jars or whatt do i do? Thanks


yep, maybe get 3 and rotate them daily. I bought 3 of the little round cheap ones off ebay. 2 of them stopped working after a couple months. Go for a hygrometer that is over $5.00


----------



## ram21r (Sep 29, 2015)

Ya i was going to get the one thats around 30 so dont really want to buy 2 or more


----------



## ShLUbY (Oct 4, 2015)

Snakewake 1252 said:


> Cut trim hang 3rd day feels good to touch but only can smell if you push in on bud otherwise kind of hay smelk in the air


3rd day is a little fast on the dry IMO. i usually dont like them to feel dry until day 4 or 5... but that's just my preference. i notice the hay smell when drying is too rapid.


----------



## OGAerogardener1990 (Oct 4, 2015)

ShLUbY said:


> 3rd day is a little fast on the dry IMO. i usually dont like them to feel dry until day 4 or 5... but that's just my preference. i notice the hay smell when drying is too rapid.


Yes a slow dry is preferable


----------



## Roobarb (Oct 4, 2015)

ram21r said:


> Ya i was going to get the one thats around 30 so dont really want to buy 2 or more


I recommend the hygrometer that is mentioned in this post and the one on ICMag - Caliber III
Ive bought a few cheap ones for each jar but they are just not accurate enough. The Caliber I've been using 2 years plus and swapping jar to jar and it's still great


----------



## DarthBlazeAnthony (Oct 4, 2015)

Roobarb said:


> I recommend the hygrometer that is mentioned in this post and the one on ICMag - Caliber III
> Ive bought a few cheap ones for each jar but they are just not accurate enough. The Caliber I've been using 2 years plus and swapping jar to jar and it's still great


link it on ebay if possible


----------



## Roobarb (Oct 4, 2015)

This is newer version- I have III


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Caliber-IV-4-Black-Rectangle-Adjustable-Digital-Hygrometer-Thermometer-1132-/261801677855?hash=item3cf498941f


----------



## DarthBlazeAnthony (Oct 5, 2015)

Roobarb said:


> This is newer version- I have III
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Caliber-IV-4-Black-Rectangle-Adjustable-Digital-Hygrometer-Thermometer-1132-/261801677855?hash=item3cf498941f


I like that one! I went with this


----------



## tomuch (Oct 6, 2015)

grower215 said:


> Where can you those pacs at??


I'd like this information as well. Do they go by any other name per chance, too, btw?


----------



## AlGore (Oct 12, 2015)

SimonD said:


> 60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.


I started scanning for the answer but figured it's easier to just ask. 

Once you get to the 60-65% range. Do you then burp the jars? How often? And for how long?

I've noticed a slightly "brown" smell, best I can describe it, and I think its the jars that are 62% and above.


----------



## ram21r (Oct 13, 2015)

From what I'm getting from this is that a slow dry/cure is ideal. I have had my bud drying for around 60 hrs now and my bud still seems pretty wet. Am I doing something wrong cause what I'm reading through these forums it should be ready to start jarring and mine don't seem dry enough to put in containers yet. I am drying in a trunk of a car that has no interior in it but that's my only option at this time because my roommates are not 100% trustworthy. Hopefully this place will work. Please lmk if I'm going about this the wrong way


----------



## qwizoking (Oct 14, 2015)

Should take bout 10 days before you jar.


----------



## qwizoking (Oct 14, 2015)

AlGore said:


> I started scanning for the answer but figured it's easier to just ask.
> 
> Once you get to the 60-65% range. Do you then burp the jars? How often? And for how long?
> 
> I've noticed a slightly "brown" smell, best I can describe it, and I think its the jars that are 62% and above.


Since i apparently ran off simon..ill answer

Your "question" does not invoke the short response i feel your hoping for.

60-65 is not the range. Mold of any type cant typically grow under 60. 55-60 is preferred. Imo 62% packs keep the bud too moist to burn optimally. And mold can be a threat. But yes it can cure nicely in this environment, bit of a gamble from my experiences 

As far as burping. The rh is important, but curing is an aerobic process through respiration and hydrolysis, and time is a key factor. The "hay" smell is from nitrogen sugars cellulose, starch, etc breaking down anaerobically with the high moisture content. It begins to ferment. This releases ammonia and acids giving the foul odor. It can happen when bailing hay obviously and is done in a controlled manner creating "sillage". On the other end of the spectrum if its too dry...the lower limit about 40, before stomatas close and processes slow. You wont break down much of the plant at all.


Alot of people open jars, empty buds long enough basically to off gas. Twice a week or so getting in fresh air.. Thats not to say a steady supply of o2 wouldnt be better.. Basically a month of "drying/curing" then up to 3 months of slower curing. The plant breaks down really in the first part. Many will wait atleast 3 weeks before selling.. the smell amd flavor- the terps, are altered through different processes, not needing moisture and needing relatively little o2. Most will slow the burping as it progresses. Obviously its sort of a function of preserving terpenes that are evaporating away and creating new ones. The new ones, typically have a lower ppm sensory threshold and are less volatile.


----------



## AlGore (Oct 14, 2015)

ram21r said:


> From what I'm getting from this is that a slow dry/cure is ideal. I have had my bud drying for around 60 hrs now and my bud still seems pretty wet. Am I doing something wrong cause what I'm reading through these forums it should be ready to start jarring and mine don't seem dry enough to put in containers yet. I am drying in a trunk of a car that has no interior in it but that's my only option at this time because my roommates are not 100% trustworthy. Hopefully this place will work. Please lmk if I'm going about this the wrong way


You probably need air circulation. Don't blow air directly onto the plants but find someway to remove the moist air and bring in some fresh.



qwizoking said:


> Since i apparently ran off simon..ill answer
> 
> Your "question" does not invoke the short response i feel your hoping for.
> 
> ...


So, I followed you until the last paragraph. lol....

Let's see if I can help you help me understand better....

Using what I know already what I think you are saying, put into simple instructions, would be something like: Dry it out, put in jars to sweat removing the bud twice a week to let the gas out(if we apply this to the Simon formula this would be during the 60-65% range??). After about 3 weeks let it sit for up to 3 months without opening in the 55-60% RH range so that it can do it's aerobic thing. 

Why I'm confused:

Not trying to be rude or anything but you tend to be either long winded/wordy OR very short with your posts, never very succinct, lol. 
- Maybe you could reword that last paragraph for me to be more clear and to the point? 

You say curing is an aerobic process but a steady supply of O2 would be better? Seems contradictory.
- Are you saying feed O2 into the jars twice a week to exchange the air? I have access to a concentrator so would that be something to think about? 
- Or are you talking about some sort of different drying process before you jar them at all?

*Honestly, all I want is a method for drying and curing that preserves the smell and flavor of the live plant the best. I grow bud that is off the fucking charts but I'm having trouble maintaining the amazing smell and flavor after harvest. 
*
Thanks!!


----------



## OGAerogardener1990 (Oct 14, 2015)

He needs air that plants suffocating in that trunk and by day 10 hes begging for mold


----------



## qwizoking (Oct 14, 2015)

Aerobic basically means requiring oxygen..so its not really contradictory if thats what slipped you up


----------



## OGAerogardener1990 (Oct 14, 2015)

Locked in a dark trunk for 10 days = suffocating moldy bud


----------



## ram21r (Oct 14, 2015)

Well its not really suffocating because the car has no interior at all so its a big open car and you can get to the trunck from the backseat its just back there so you cant walk by and see it.


----------



## backyardwarrior (Oct 14, 2015)

ram21r said:


> Well its not really suffocating because the car has no interior at all so its a big open car and you can get to the trunck from the backseat its just back there so you cant walk by and see it.


Drill some holes in the bottom of your trunk and leave your windows cracked. Boom! Airflow


----------



## qwizoking (Oct 15, 2015)

Thats not nearly enough


----------



## ram21r (Oct 15, 2015)

Holes are in floor windows are cracked. Is the main worry id be concerned with is mold? If so i can say im on day 6 of the dry in there and no mold present.


----------



## elkamino (Oct 15, 2015)

ram21r said:


> no mold present.


HOpe you're right but if you've dense buds and aren't looking inside them its really hard to say without looking closely via magnification. Plus if they're still moist inside you've a bit til you're out of the woods, and botritis can grow very quickly.

If you had control of your environment things would be different. But since you've serious variables I'd error on the side of drying too quick (might add harshness and reduce smell/flavor but not yield) instead of drying them too slow (botritis is everywhere, grows quickly and ruins crops... )

Anyway if the buds are starting to get crispy on the outsides you're right on schedule, no worries. If they're totally crispy you've dried em out too soon but you're fine.

But if they've no crispiness at all I'd get serious about getting the moisture out of those buds, maybe run a fan in there for 30 or 60 minutes a few times per day. 

Good luck.


----------



## ram21r (Oct 16, 2015)

Ya the buds are starting to feel dry i think im gonna get a small battery fan and let it run every night for more circulation. Had two more questions first would putting one of those moisture absorber containers in the room. They are the ones that have the little white balls in a container and you peel open the top and it absorbs moisture into the container. Second question is when they say that the stems should bend and not snap which stems are they talking about? Like the ones right next to the bud or just the whole stem in general?
thanks


----------



## elkamino (Oct 16, 2015)

ram21r said:


> Ya the buds are starting to feel dry i think im gonna get a small battery fan and let it run every night for more circulation. Had two more questions first would putting one of those moisture absorber containers in the room. They are the ones that have the little white balls in a container and you peel open the top and it absorbs moisture into the container. Second question is when they say that the stems should bend and not snap which stems are they talking about? Like the ones right next to the bud or just the whole stem in general?
> thanks


Doubtful the moisture absorbers will do much in an open environ like you got. 

If you're still too moist then circulation is good so the battery fan'd be good. So would cracking the trunk overnight.

Stem-wise. The small ones for sure should snap, the larger ones will take longer to dry enough but need to snap before you jar it up or you remain at risk for mold. Really though there's lotsa variables that affect the answer like bud density, evenness of the dry (inside/outside of the bud), strain, etc.

Got a hygrometer aka humidity meter, and/or know what the ambient RH is? If not they're cheap and very useful for the cure, see the first page of this thread. Might consider Boveda packs when you jar it too, if you're not confident the buds are dry enough. Good luck.


----------



## ram21r (Oct 17, 2015)

Got a hygrometer and getting the fans tomorrow cant crack the trunck at night because its always raining here. But woth the boveda packs how many would i need and how full should i fill the jars? I probably have around 14 ozs give or take a few.


----------



## Vikerus Forrest (Nov 22, 2015)

After smoking for 10 years, the best most flavorful weed has always been cured to a pleasant light gray green hue. I'll give this method a go and see what comes of it ^-^


----------



## Moldy (Nov 22, 2015)

I've followed this method now since Simon posted it and have passed it around especially to noobs. It really does take the guess work out of it. I've stored buds at a lot higher RH and was lucky enough to only see a touch of mold on one bud. Now I know the exact moisture content and that doesn't happen any more.


----------



## GrowNube (Nov 28, 2015)

SimonD said:


> This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.
> 
> It's a very simple and effective process:
> 
> ...


Great post, thank you! I already am following this method but one step I did skip was to drop buds on a screen prior to putting in large mason jar... I'd think the crystals would be able to be collected, somehow, when I am done with the contents of the jar ... Do you know anyway to collect the inner crystals? Thanks!!!


----------



## budstocker88 (Dec 13, 2015)

SimonD said:


> Heh, it's as if folks would rater argue than grow lots of bud. When I started out, I identified a number of growers I wanted to learn from, shut my mouth and listened for a hell of a long time, while putting in the hours in my own garden. Here, the less experience you have, the louder you are. No thanks.
> 
> Simon


I have little experience curing I always just air dried the whole plant so I will shut up and listen


----------



## laubs (Dec 13, 2015)

Thanks SimonD your input seems to work well. Don't keep mine long as I really enjoy that Great taste and smell!!


----------



## AtticGrower002 (Jan 1, 2016)

Hey SimonD, thanks for this info! I am nearing the end of my first grow and have a question about the temp and humidity of the room I will dry/cure in. I'm sorry if this has been already covered in the thread, I read a lot but did not see it. I'd like to know for temp/humidity what is the optimal and range of what is acceptable for both hang drying and then jar curing?


----------



## laubs (Jan 1, 2016)

Hi Simon, you say to jar up when stems slightly flexible? If they snap is it to late?


----------



## DesertGrow89 (Jan 9, 2016)

Well buds went into jars about 24 hours ago, my hygrometer initially read 38% and now it reads 52%... So should I just leave the jars sealed because humidity is already too low or burp them?


----------



## Rrog (Jan 9, 2016)

Leave them. That's pretty dry. Nothing to burp.


----------



## shorelineOG (Jan 11, 2016)

I like to hang dry until they are close to stem snap, then sweat the bud in turkey bags. If the bud becomes too moist during sweating place in a paper bag. There is a good article on this somewhere if you google turkey bag cure. I prefer this to jar curing. I don't like to use humidity packs because you need to sweat and dry bud a couple times.


----------



## laubs (Jan 11, 2016)

Same method I'm using,works great also using jars!!


----------



## KingBlunted (Jan 24, 2016)

Online I found "Ambient Weather-WC-10-C" weather\humidity stations with upto 8 sensors and one LCD screen to view. Says reads hunidity from 10%-99%.
Would these work as well as the caliber IV?

55$ for 3 sensors and LCD screen 
Or
30$ each for Caliber IV


----------



## elkamino (Jan 24, 2016)

KingBlunted said:


> Online I found "Ambient Weather-WC-10-C" weather\humidity stations with upto 8 sensors and one LCD screen to view. Says reads hunidity from 10%-99%.
> Would these work as well as the caliber IV?
> 
> 55$ for 3 sensors and LCD screen
> ...


I have both and yes I like the Ambient Weather station unit as well/better.


----------



## KingBlunted (Jan 24, 2016)

elkamino said:


> I have both and yes I like the Ambient Weather station unit as well/better.


Excuse my lack of knowing but how large are the ambient weather sensors?


----------



## elkamino (Jan 24, 2016)

KingBlunted said:


> Excuse my lack of knowing but how large are the ambient weather sensors?


Might just want to use google for this kinda question  but according to Amazon:

Product Dimensions: 2 x 0.8 x 4.5 inches ; 3.2 ounces
Seems accurate to me...


----------



## dazzyballz (Jan 24, 2016)

Ive used the good old fashioned way for 15 yrz.dry plants for 4-7 days depending on yr r.h.then once slightly crispy put in tubs open every few hrs.iv noticed hanging plants in tent on a net on paper for 3 days then in and out the tubs seems quicker but very similar


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## shorelineOG (Jan 24, 2016)

laubs said:


> Hi Simon, you say to jar up when stems slightly flexible? If they snap is it to late?


The first day the stem snaps it is not too late, it will still sweat. The sweating and drying is important. I vacuum seal for long term storage when they are where I want them cure wise. Hope that helps.


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## dazzyballz (Jan 24, 2016)

Have u seen in greenhouse seeds.com website.for the cann. Cup they cut the whole plant in 1 go,no manicuring and stuff em into long thin cardboard boxes and leave for 6 month.in sum dark heated roim.i couldnt believe it.check it out


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## shorelineOG (Jan 24, 2016)

dazzyballz said:


> Have u seen in greenhouse seeds.com website.for the cann. Cup they cut the whole plant in 1 go,no manicuring and stuff em into long thin cardboard boxes and leave for 6 month.in sum dark heated roim.i couldnt believe it.check it out


I don't know a lot about what kind of work they are putting out, but I love those strainhunter episodes.


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## dazzyballz (Jan 25, 2016)

shorelineOG said:


> I don't know a lot about what kind of work they are putting out, but I love those strainhunter episodes.


Yea its on 1 of the growing clips


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## cannakis (Jan 26, 2016)

SimonD said:


> This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.
> 
> It's a very simple and effective process:
> 
> ...


Thanks so much! Finally bought a hygrometer and my stuff was Way too wet! Thanks brother!


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## Drgoodgreens (Jan 28, 2016)

I have tried many different drying /curing methods , hanging the whole plant in darkness with just the fan leaves seems to work best for me ,as far as trimming the product , I find it a lot easier letting it dry first before I trim . I have cut the branches and trimmed it before and started drying like that , I lost a lot of quality doing that , the buds should feel like popcorn to the touch before cure . I don't use a hygrometer , but can say I put it into cure around 55-65 using the popcorn method . I get to try many different cures doing sea of green . Two strains I am going with right now , incredible bulk by Dr.Krippling , and THC Bomb . Happy days


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## elkamino (Feb 10, 2016)

GreenThumbsMcgee said:


> hey Simon...
> First off, good stuff here =) I learned how to cure from this post!
> hey, i was just rereading it, and noticed this comment above. I just got my hands on Next Gen's Grape-God, i see you have experience with this breeder, and grape-god's lineage is grapefruit and god-bud. I was just wondering if you had any info on the strain, i know they are different strains, but maybe you have experience with the G.god as well? I have it in seedling phase now, just wondering if there was any tips you had with the strain, ie how did grapefruit handle nutrients, how was the stretch, stuff like that....thanks a lot Simon.


Dude. OP's not been here for 2 years now. Might have better luck asking elsewhere, like: 

https://www.rollitup.org/f/seed-and-strain-reviews.43/


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## GreenThumbsMcgee (Feb 10, 2016)

elkamino said:


> Dude. OP's not been here for 2 years now. Might have better luck asking elsewhere, like:
> 
> https://www.rollitup.org/f/seed-and-strain-reviews.43/


thanks bro, Guess i should had looked.....it wasnt important really anyway, but thanks for the heads up


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## outlier (Feb 15, 2016)

I have a jar of bud that smells like alcohol after a 2 and a bit week stint, only briefly when you first open it. The smell after is like mandarin orange, so sweet and I ain't complaining 

Never had that before and other jars cured the same way don't seem to have it. Anyone know what it is, or more importantly should I be concerned?

Bud is about 4-5 weeks into the cure process and it is as smooth as silk and tastes as sweet as it smells. Can't tell any difference between other jars smoke wise but I still get a strong alcohol stench when I first pop the jar. Bit like my wife's breath after a big night on the vodka... lol


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## Drgoodgreens (Feb 18, 2016)

I just bought some Boveda , http://www.bovedainc.com/store/herbal/#c , store your greens up to a year without losing quality , maintaining 62 percent humidity , sounds like a no brainer to me . This is a great topic and post , thanks for posting this , this is so important to the product , I have spent thousands on my system to make everything just right , not including my time , I appreciate everyone's input , I want my product to be the best it can be . Anyone know when I should cover my buds with crystals to make the moon rocks ?? I would assume before cure , but not sure .


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## elkamino (Feb 18, 2016)

Drgoodgreens said:


> Anyone know when I should cover my buds with crystals to make the moon rocks ?? I would assume before cure .


Make "moon rocks?" Huh?

Buds won't gain crystals during or after the cure.


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## 420PyRoS (Feb 18, 2016)

elkamino said:


> Make "moon rocks?" Huh?
> 
> Buds won't gain crystals during or after the cure.


Only if you smother the bud in good oil and cover it in kief 
Never tried a moon rock


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## qwizoking (Feb 18, 2016)

After cure.


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## Rrog (Feb 18, 2016)

I'm in the minority here, and that's cool, but I like the idea of long term storage in inert glass. Once the Rh is where I want it, I don't need a plastic bag to maintain it. I'm not a fan of plastics on my food and Cannabis. But that's just me, mostly.


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## qwizoking (Feb 18, 2016)

Are you talking about boveda?


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## Rrog (Feb 18, 2016)

Yessir. 

Again, sounds like most love Boveda. That's groovy


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## SamsonsRiddle (Mar 17, 2016)

i listened to all the advice and did everything i read repeated over and over again and was fooled once again. I set my carbon filter on its lowest setting (which kept a VERY LIGHT amount of air flowing out of the tent), kept my humidity between 50-55, and kept the temps at 68-70. I cut off the fan leaves and hung them up one by one with their 6-8 inch stem (after the buds). After 4 days i jarred them up and they are at 52%. 

I'm totally bummed right now.


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## KingBlunted (Mar 18, 2016)

SamsonsRiddle said:


> i listened to all the advice and did everything i read repeated over and over again and was fooled once again. I set my carbon filter on its lowest setting (which kept a VERY LIGHT amount of air flowing out of the tent), kept my humidity between 50-55, and kept the temps at 68-70. I cut off the fan leaves and hung them up one by one with their 6-8 inch stem (after the buds). After 4 days i jarred them up and they are at 52%.
> 
> I'm totally bummed right now.


After how long in the jar. They should sweat and raise above 52%


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## SamsonsRiddle (Mar 18, 2016)

KingBlunted said:


> After how long in the jar. They should sweat and raise above 52%


There is a glimmer of hope. I overreacted. they are now at 57% and awaiting my 62% boveda in the mail. 

How often do you burp once you have a boveda in the jar?


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## KingBlunted (Mar 19, 2016)

SamsonsRiddle said:


> There is a glimmer of hope. I overreacted. they are now at 57% and awaiting my 62% boveda in the mail.
> 
> How often do you burp once you have a boveda in the jar?


Boveda is typically used once curing process is done. Burp daily at first. Then burp once a week. Then once every 2 weeks. Then u should be all done burping. As long as u r below 65% ur good. Above 70 is increased mold risk.

Do your stems snap or just bend?


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## SamsonsRiddle (Mar 19, 2016)

they snap. basically i was just looking for a way to get my overdryed bud back into the cure zone of 60-65. I don't want to use any peels or bread, and i decided to try boveda 62's, but have learned it's not very likely that it will rehydrate enough to get back into the cure zone. 

This isn't my first time curing, and most times i get them in the jar at 65-68 and bring them down to 62 and keep it there for about 6 weeks before dropping it into the storage zone around 58. I was just mostly wondering if the boveda 62s are going to actually bring the humidity up in the jar enough to get it back into the cure zone, or if the environment in the jar will be at 62 but the actual buds are not curing? After that, if they are, should i even burp them knowing they are only brought to that level artificially through the bovedas.


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## SamsonsRiddle (Mar 24, 2016)

If anyone is interested, everything was a success as far as using the bovedas to draw out some moisture from the buds and getting them into simon's idea of the cure zone. Here's a brief review of my journey: http://rollitup.org/t/using-boveda-on-overdried-bud.903073/

Now I've went through the entire thread and am extremely confused. I had always heard 60-65 was the cure zone and to burp your jars once a day for 5-15 minutes in this range to prevent mold. Now after reading every page of this, I've seen about 15 different ideas of what is the true way to cure properly.

I've got my jar sitting at 62% without the bovedas, what should i be doing?

@qwizoking - i know you're THE iso man (i learned to make iso from your instructions) and i've seen and respect a lot of the work you do here, so what do you suggest?


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## qwizoking (Mar 24, 2016)

Mold doesnt typically grow over 60rh this is where the top number comes from
Stomatas wont close till ....40
It will cure in that range.
Sure more moosture and heat will break it down faster but with more bacterial decomposition. Vs plant acting like a cutting and yiu keeping it alive till everythings burned away

It is an aerobic process, evne with bovedas still burb for gas exchange .




this has given me success


Trim wet, rh ~60%, decent airflow ~500cfm, no light, temps 65-73°f, Hopefully this takes roughly 10-14 days before outside of buds becomes dry. Do not let any part of the bud become dry. if this happens to soon; up rh, lower temp, and/or decrease air flow. If a hay or foul odor arises increase air flow..the hay is anaerobic fermentation essentially, and what happens in the inside pf a bail of hay. When drying is complete, Jar for minumum of 16hrs to get moisture back to the tips. You can now add boveda packs and or "burp" for30 minutes and give airflow to the bud. Airflow is very important to the cure but so is maintaining 55-60%rh
You dont wanna hang on the low end as metabolic provesses are slowed enzymatic etc..
After 2 weeks drying and 1 week"cure" i start to sell or taste test

i burp every other day for 2 weeks then weekly for 2months... then its good to go head stash




Gimme an hr or two if you have more questions or clarify,,,,maybe im talkinh crazy..jus woke up and some shit still in my system,,,.


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## GreenThumby (Mar 24, 2016)

really simple and relaible method. I like it. thanks


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## SamsonsRiddle (Mar 24, 2016)

qwizoking said:


> Mold doesnt typically grow over 60rh this is where the top number comes from
> Stomatas wont close till ....40
> It will cure in that range.
> Sure more moosture and heat will break it down faster but with more bacterial decomposition. Vs plant acting like a cutting and yiu keeping it alive till everythings burned away
> ...


I don't think you need to clarify any more, and appreciate the response. 

Someone posted that growweedeasy says 60-65, simon says 60-65, but i couldn't get over the thought of mold making its way into my finished product. I'm glad that someone has reassured me i wasn't alone in that feeling. 

I'm going to copy your method this time, thanks for doing all the hard work and going through all the failures for me


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## The Nine (Apr 2, 2016)

guy incognito said:


> My grow room is a confined, sealed environmental too, and when the temperature drops 15*F after lights off the relative humidity goes up. The absolute humidity will be the same, but the relative humidity (what the hygrometer measures) fluctuates with temperature so I don't see why it wouldn't apply to a drying container.


Don't put your grow lights in your curing jars as you won't be able to get the lids on. Also don't switch them on if you do as this will severely dehydrate your buds into carbon, which is very difficult to keep lit and doesn't have any 'high'. 

Just stick to sealing them air tight and worry not about minute RH fluctuations withing the storage vessel.


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## HazednConfused (Apr 26, 2016)

Sounds like a goldmine of info for a noob like me! Posting to bookmark. Thanks


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## subgrounds (Apr 26, 2016)

Shit. This thread was hilarious.If only ppl knew the magic of paper. Oh well I aint gonna spill it. lolcatz.


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## crazysoviet123 (Apr 26, 2016)

I am a new grower and I will be trying this method tomorrow at 11:00 PM I was directed by another member to this tread so hopefully my first cure goes good.
thanks for the info


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## MedicalMike420 (May 13, 2016)

SimonD said:


> +70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.
> 
> 65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.
> 
> ...


My bud is 55-60 after the first two days in the jar. Did I wait to long or did I jar it a t a good time?


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## SamsonsRiddle (May 13, 2016)

MedicalMike420 said:


> My bud is 55-60 after the first two days in the jar. Did I wait to long or did I jar it a t a good time?


that's perfect, just keep it there and burp at least once a week


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## DANK PURPY (May 17, 2016)

i always have a hard time getting a good dry and cure my buds always taste like grass or harsh. this time i tried to do it as accurate as possible i cut the plant in sections of 3 and hung them to dry after taking off fan leaves. dried in my closet with temp at 74f and RH at 50%. let them dry on hangers in my closet for 4 days waited until the stems bend but not snap this time(i would usually wait until they start to break but not snap completely). i put them into jars and after 24hours they are at 60% RH. what do i do now? should i burp twice a day or just once or once every few days? and how long do i leave jars open for? btw my house is usually 74f and 50% humidity


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## qwizoking (May 17, 2016)

your questions have been answered


read


then ask


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## GardenGnome83 (Jun 6, 2016)

What is your opinion on those cheap flukers hygrometers you can get at pet stores?.. I have 3


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## DANK PURPY (Jun 8, 2016)

if i had time to read i would have done it. i work full time and have 2 kids. i dont have time to scroll through every page reading every comment for one answer. please id like someone to help me out i just need this answer. again i have ruined my final product due to curing stages. i dont understand how im messing this up. im getting light smells and light taste. why dont i have full smell etc?


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## GardenGnome83 (Jun 9, 2016)

DANK PURPY said:


> if i had time to read i would have done it. i work full time and have 2 kids. i dont have time to scroll through every page reading every comment for one answer. please id like someone to help me out i just need this answer. again i have ruined my final product due to curing stages. i dont understand how im messing this up. im getting light smells and light taste. why dont i have full smell etc?


If you would set aside the time to read that, your questions would answer themselves. 
I
Five minutes could make your next cycle danks, so it is worth a good cure. The very first post gives a detailed explanation why/how to cure.


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## SamsonsRiddle (Jun 9, 2016)

GardenGnome83 said:


> What is your opinion on those cheap flukers hygrometers you can get at pet stores?.. I have 3


try testing it against some more reliable hygrometers or using boveda packs in jars with them. I personally have never used them so i don't want to send you the wrong way.


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## SamsonsRiddle (Jun 9, 2016)

DANK PURPY said:


> if i had time to read i would have done it. i work full time and have 2 kids. i dont have time to scroll through every page reading every comment for one answer. please id like someone to help me out i just need this answer. again i have ruined my final product due to curing stages. i dont understand how im messing this up. im getting light smells and light taste. why dont i have full smell etc?


no one has enough time to do all the things they want to do. Why do you think it's the most valuable resource god allows us to have?

qwizoking has answered this several times in this thread alone with well thought out and easy to understand words. So since you don't have time, we should all waste ours telling you the same thing that has been said several times in this thread?

Maybe start at this page and start going back in posts, eventually you'll run into your answer and won't need any more of our time.


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## GardenGnome83 (Jun 9, 2016)

SamsonsRiddle said:


> try testing it against some more reliable hygrometers or using boveda packs in jars with them. I personally have never used them so i don't want to send you the wrong way.


I tested them, and every single hygrometer I can find is the same. Even the old dial ones. I'm sure the cheaper you go, the less accurate they are...
It pays to get quality.


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## Moldy (Jun 9, 2016)

GardenGnome83 said:


> I tested them, and every single hygrometer I can find is the same. Even the old dial ones. I'm sure the cheaper you go, the less accurate they are...
> It pays to get quality.


I like the spring hygrometers since there's no batteries to fluck with. I checked them using a digital hygrometer and it's close enough.


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## Mr.GreenJeans (Jun 11, 2016)

Moldy said:


> I like the spring hygrometers since there's no batteries to fluck with. I checked them using a digital hygrometer and it's close enough.


Generally the analog hygrometers are fine, although some require some calibration. But for the most part their accuracy is acceptable for curing purposes, and they are cheap enough to put one in each jar. You can also get some pretty decent digital hygrometers for around $12-$15/each on eBay......


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## Krippled (Jun 28, 2016)

DANK PURPY said:


> i always have a hard time getting a good dry and cure my buds always taste like grass or harsh. this time i tried to do it as accurate as possible i cut the plant in sections of 3 and hung them to dry after taking off fan leaves. dried in my closet with temp at 74f and RH at 50%. let them dry on hangers in my closet for 4 days waited until the stems bend but not snap this time(i would usually wait until they start to break but not snap completely). i put them into jars and after 24hours they are at 60% RH. what do i do now? should i burp twice a day or just once or once every few days? and how long do i leave jars open for? btw my house is usually 74f and 50% humidity


60% RH in the jar is fine, avoid storing long term over 70% RH in jars....my 2cents


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## CrazyKappa (Jul 15, 2016)

SimonD Thank you so much for all you have shared, I really appreciate it! I also enjoyed you shutting others down, who talk out their ass, highly entertaining! I do have one question for you, and I do apologize if it has been brought up before, I am a bit less then half way through this thread. However, buds wait for no man! If i recall correctly, you said somewhere that you dry trimmed. Does that mean you trim them before you put them into the curing jars, or after they have cured? I have three days into drying, I did cut the fan leafs off when I harvested, but left all the sugar leafs. Should I trim before I put into jars, or after?

Also when should I be testing if the buds are ready to go into the jars? About an hour ago I put some buds into a jar as a test, room RH is 50%, and the hygrometer is reading 65% right now. Did the RH go up too fast, is it still too wet, or should i keep it in there longer to see. Should I jar up the whole lot at this point, or wait another day?

Thanks again for sharing all of this!


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## SamsonsRiddle (Jul 15, 2016)

CrazyKappa said:


> SimonD Thank you so much for all you have shared, I really appreciate it! I also enjoyed you shutting others down, who talk out their ass, highly entertaining! I do have one question for you, and I do apologize if it has been brought up before, I am a bit less then half way through this thread. However, buds wait for no man! If i recall correctly, you said somewhere that you dry trimmed. Does that mean you trim them before you put them into the curing jars, or after they have cured? I have three days into drying, I did cut the fan leafs off when I harvested, but left all the sugar leafs. Should I trim before I put into jars, or after?
> 
> Also when should I be testing if the buds are ready to go into the jars? About an hour ago I put some buds into a jar as a test, room RH is 50%, and the hygrometer is reading 65% right now. Did the RH go up too fast, is it still too wet, or should i keep it in there longer to see. Should I jar up the whole lot at this point, or wait another day?
> 
> Thanks again for sharing all of this!


simon is gone. i think everyone trims before they put their bud into a jar, whether dry or wet. 

65 is still too wet, if you leave it in over night it will keep going up. one thing you'll learn is that it takes about 24 hours to get a proper reading and it almost always goes up from when you first jar it.


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## CrazyKappa (Jul 15, 2016)

SamsonsRiddle said:


> simon is gone. i think everyone trims before they put their bud into a jar, whether dry or wet.
> 
> 65 is still too wet, if you leave it in over night it will keep going up. one thing you'll learn is that it takes about 24 hours to get a proper reading and it almost always goes up from when you first jar it.


Thanks, yeah it just went up to 66%, ill take it out of the jar, and test it tomorrow. How much of a rise from ambient RH is a good indicator that its ready? Over the course of one or several hours? Yeah i read it took 24 hours to get a proper reading, but I don't want to risk mold by leaving it in for 24 hours, if its too wet.

Thank you!


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## SamsonsRiddle (Jul 15, 2016)

the ambient rh shouldn't matter much once it's in the jar since there is little air in there to influence your actual product. when you start burping it will matter more since you want some outside air to clear out the higher (hopefully) rh air from inside the jar. 

if it's going up that fast give it another day and try it again. you are close if you are shooting for the 60-65 range, but as stated more recently it is alright and safer to keep it from 56-60 since mold starts around 60 - and yes it will still cure in this range.


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## CrazyKappa (Jul 15, 2016)

What about using those two way humidity packs? It sets it at 62%, is that good for long term storage? And in a pinch, could you not use one of those for curing, if the product was still just a tad bit too wet, and you did not have time to come back to it? Slap a pouch in a jar and let it cure that way, or are they only good for long term storage?

Thank you


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## SamsonsRiddle (Jul 16, 2016)

yeah, bovedas are good at getting your jar right to 62 over a day or so. you still need to burp and everything since 62 is going to be an environment that mold can grow in. i prefer not to use them and just get everything where it needs to be the "old fashioned" way.

I will throw them in jars where i know the rh is below 57, but usually don't have much left for long-term storage


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## CrazyKappa (Jul 16, 2016)

I see with this method you open the jars if your RH is a bit too high, like 65% after stabilizing, leave jar open for few hours. But how often do you burp the jars regardless?

Thank you!


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## redzi (Jul 19, 2016)

For me curing in the summer time verse winter time are totally different. Growing a strain like Jack Herer in unforgiving in the summer time when there are plenty of mold spores to f- my weed up. So I use water crystals that can be bought off Ebay. Just separate weed from crystals with screen. Stir the crystals every day as the ones closes to the bud will be saturated. I have been using the same crystals that I bough 5 years ago...just stick it in the oven at 180F. Also great for if you live in an apartment..my very first grow was almost tipped off because a neighbor thought that the smell was coming from his pipes or sewage..Idiot.


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## elihazehaze (Jul 26, 2016)

SimonD said:


> This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.
> 
> It's a very simple and effective process:
> 
> ...


Hello Simon my problem is I harvest a lot of trees about 200 300 tress outdoors. I hang them in a room for 7 - 8 day b4 i trim i put a fan in the room cus it gets hot here (am in Africa ) i always end up with brown buds b4 curing.. just want to ask if there is any way u know I can dry my thing and have them green cus all my customers want to see is green green buds. I grow vanilla kush, amnesia haze, white widow and ak 47 got seeds online and cloned them now I have a lot my next grow will be 1000 plants of all strains


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## 714steadyeddie (Jul 27, 2016)

This thread helped tremendously! 

One advise is the temperature matters! Don't let you dry area be warmer then 75* F ! 

My buds dried in 79-82F* and the buds were too crispy. Even though I had humidity right.

I'm sure it's obvious but just throwing a friendly reminder


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## thewanderingjack (Aug 1, 2016)

I admit I was a bit put off by the OP:



SimonD said:


> those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved


But then he did follow up with:



SimonD said:


> The thread is open for discussion. Please feel free to post your questions, hints and personal experiences.


And while i do see some bickering, I also see good info...

The original post... while maybe not as as perfect as indicated, is a good and effective general guide, and should work under most conditions.

But let's consider some of the points brought up (I can speak on): RH... my ambient humidity where I live is.. oh, just shy of fog most every day... it is fog every night. Mold, mildew, shrooms... they love it here. Like someone said, I need to work harder to dry my plants. I also don't lose humidity when burping my jars, as happens for most people, I gain it... as the air exchanges for what is around here, only wetter air. So yeah, I have to work a little differently.

I have re-hydrated crumbling buds (under an orange peel) that were poorly stored for a year. Originally had been top shelf bud... and once it was re-hydrated it was again.

Like a lot of other things (like harvest time) both when and how to cure, and for how long, are a matter of taste. I like to keep it simple and go with what works.

For me putting moist stems in a jar would get me... mold.

THANKFULLY I grow small... I can afford to take a little more time with each plant and don't need to hang/dry the whole thing (which is super convenient when you're doing a lot). I can clip my buds and lay them on screen trays to dry... and I can catch kief as it dries too... this allows me to use a very small drying area (a box). Curing... well, that's harder. I'm working on a "best" solution or me... but for now it's just warming up an area with hot dry air when I do air exchanges for my jars.



Trousers said:


> I don't give a toss what EVERY cannabis book says.


Not disputing that "popular wisdom" isn't always correct... but it also sounds like you're discounting many people who are much more knowledgeable than... well I for one. Looked at it another way... most growers are following the popular wisdom... that means pretty much all pot in shops is over dried and poorly cured to you (I hear they dry that even more, for transport and storage life)... but it's never felt that way to me... not enough to notice anyway.

On a side but still relevant note: I used to sell fancy wine to "connoisseurs" in Southern California. Maybe one in a hundred could name each red by smell or taste alone. Forget picking vintages or regions. Sure, with all the tasting and info I gleaned I felt my palette was made fairly sensitive (which it was, as proven by many in-house taste testings)... but over all these people drank more wine more often than I ever did... and spent more time concerned with all it's particular characteristics. Aside from a more technical education on the subject all I had going for me was my own honesty.

I always recommended that a person drink whichever wine they preferred, not what someone else said was good.


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## Pig4buzz (Aug 9, 2016)

Came across these jars. Just wonder has anyone heard or used them. Hylids. If so what's your opinion 

https://www.etsy.com/listing/384990362/hylids-fit-on-wide-mouth-canning-jars?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_e-home_and_living-kitchen_and_dining-kitchen_storage&utm_custom1=a1919033-4754-4ef2-bc0e-76fbd26cfc70&gclid=Cj0KEQjw_qW9BRCcv-Xc5Jn-26gBEiQAM-iJhV3aU_IY2VXF7Ifs-bWQAnUlWxfGYwE4oWITI8tWjwUaAgny8P8HAQ


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## hydra-glide (Sep 2, 2016)

YoungBezzle said:


> The Humidipaks Will Lower Or Raise The Rh To 62%.


I don't think this is so. I read on growing marijuana easy the Humidipaks won't lower humidity only increase it to 62%. I'll find the thread. Meanwhile I chopped last night - going out to finish removing the biog leaves standing on mah' Home Depot Martha Stewart foam comfort pad. I can just let the leaves fall where they want.  With my grow, I'm trying to outrun bud-rot. So, I flooded the smart pots with 5-gal, of filtered water two nights ago and cut them down the following day. Clone guy said dry them as soon as possible and you'll have some sweet smoke. We'll see. I'm following SimonD's method. Thnx!
•••••••
Additional curing info: *http://www.growweedeasy.com/curing*


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## littlegiant (Sep 6, 2016)

I just purchased a few C-Vault containers. I will post my results a soon as I can. Just hung my Dank Sinatra up to dry along with my own cross of RD # 1 x Lucy Charms. 77deg,55% hum. Also will follow the advice in Simons first post Had a good grow, and no bud rot so im hoping for some great flavor and aroma.


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## hydra-glide (Sep 6, 2016)

littlegiant said:


> C-Vault containers


Link us to one Scotty.


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## littlegiant (Sep 6, 2016)

hydra-glide said:


> Link us to one Scotty.


Amazon bro! Reviews were good too!


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## hydra-glide (Sep 6, 2016)

I have an Onyx Inc.- 2qt. freezer safe, silicone seal, container, 3-lock like this one, but without the Boveda carrier in the top. Nice. I put mine in the bottom, and paid about the same price. The C-Vaults ship Prime too.
https://www.amazon.com/FreshStor-Liter-Vault-Fresh-CVault/dp/B00IBO4ZYO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473217006&sr=8-1&keywords=C-Vault+containers


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## hydra-glide (Sep 7, 2016)

Wondering if, any one has made bubble hash that remains pliable. Most of the bubble hash I've encountered was hard as a rock and popped hash bits everywhere when crushed. 
I'm aware that it all begins with the trichs and their quantity and quality, still I would like to see a piece of *processed bubble hash that's still malleable upon completion.*
A photo would be excellent.


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## hydra-glide (Sep 8, 2016)

I researched. On the way: (what did I miss? Please add to the list. I may not need it but someone else will.)
*Grinder
•*
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GXSFB1Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
*TrimBin*
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4NJSBE/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
•
*T-Press*
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CCD2YU6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
•
*Trim scissors* (*pointed*, for nipping the tiny "pitchfork base" on sugar leaves.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004SD76/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## LittleT (Sep 11, 2016)

ive been growing for many years however i cant get that high dollar grass smell.i dry 3 or 4 days ,remove buds jar,and store for 2 to 3 weeks while burping jars along the way---smokes good but not dank smell ---what am i not doing? have tried storing for several months but no great smell!!!


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Sep 11, 2016)

I've been having the same problem, have to slow down the drying time. I've got two friends that produce stuff that stinks from down the block, and the only thing they do different than me is cut down the air flow in their drying rooms and let the stuff dry for at least 7-10 days


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## elkamino (Sep 11, 2016)

LittleT said:


> ive been growing for many years however i cant get that high dollar grass smell.i dry 3 or 4 days ,remove buds jar,and store for 2 to 3 weeks while burping jars along the way---smokes good but not dank smell ---what am i not doing? have tried storing for several months but no great smell!!!


How are your temps? Terpenes and other odors are volatile and can leave/change if your temps are too high, in the grow or during drying. Some even evaporate at room temp. I believe that's the case with linalool, the terpene that smells of lavender, and a reason its rarely smelled in dried cannabis.

Keeping temps down also slows drying time, which is beneficial for the cure too.


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## hydra-glide (Sep 11, 2016)

I noticed that once the leaves are stripped, the bud's trimmed and put into a humidor that maintains 62%, the buds begin to lose that green smell and begin developing an aroma.
On the dark side, bud-rot aroma is too sweet. I can smell it now just thinking about it. I'm still in shock. HydroJoe told me everyone west of I-5 got hit with rot this season. We get more sun east of I-5. Alot of days it's overcast at the beach and up to a half-mile inland.
I'm not using a 2x4 wire surround. It means pouring water over the parts of the plant everytime it gets watered. I'm going to stake them in 7-gal smartPots this time, so I can water at pot-edge level. I'm adding another circulation fan on the floor and an oscillating corner fan.
HydroJoe said he puts his *fans on a timer set at 15 min intervals (24/7) , so the plants get to rest between wind sessions.*
Sounds like a good idea.


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## Bud Farmer (Sep 28, 2016)

I read all of this thread and there's lots of good info in here. 
I have used cvaults for 2 years now, which is only two grows(outdoor). I only have 5 of them do I still have a lot I cure in jars too. 
I like to start all my curing in the jars until I'm past the chance of mold. Then I full up the cvaults with my best stuff because I seem to get a better and slower cure in them. That's said, the jars still work just as good. 
For long term storage though it's hard to beat a cvault or a tight jar with a boveda pack fastened to the lid. The buds stay at the perfect moisture for as long as I've stored. The longest only about 8 months.

I don't do anything special with the cure. Just do it by feel like always. It takes my herbs about 5 or 6 days to get to the cure stage. Usually when the stem will crack but not snap in two. As long as you keep an eye on them and burb them at least once a day for a week or so, and continue to watch then for a few weeks they'll be fine. The first few days is pretty crucial. If they went in too most they will mold. If you smell ammonia smell they too moist. Pour them out and let them dry a bit longer. 
And it's so important not too let them dry beyond the point of being able to cure them correctly. Once they're too dry it's over.


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## GreenSanta (Oct 8, 2016)

Bud Farmer said:


> I read all of this thread and there's lots of good info in here.
> I have used cvaults for 2 years now, which is only two grows(outdoor). I only have 5 of them do I still have a lot I cure in jars too.
> I like to start all my curing in the jars until I'm past the chance of mold. Then I full up the cvaults with my best stuff because I seem to get a better and slower cure in them. That's said, the jars still work just as good.
> For long term storage though it's hard to beat a cvault or a tight jar with a boveda pack fastened to the lid. The buds stay at the perfect moisture for as long as I've stored. The longest only about 8 months.
> ...


do it by feel!! that's how I do it, I think for most grower they do their whole crop all at once and it can be more stressful but I have always ever grown perpetual where I harvest a plant here and a plant there, I feel over the years I have really gotten the hang of it. If I have to go to work and it's almost ready, I might bag them into 2 paper bags, then a plastic bag, the extra paper absorbs more moisture. Sometimes Ill de-stem all the flowers, but give em another 12 hours off of the stems before bagging or jarring. The main thing is keep a few buds with a little more of a branch on them, once it has been in the jar for 24 hours, try to snap it, if it does, keep trying every now and again. I have had weed that looked so dry only to find a week later it was stored with too much moisture. Different time of the year where humidity is different and everything changes. You have to go by feel, don't be scared, and dont be in a hurry to bag it. That said Im not greedy if I over dry a plant it does not cost me a lot of money and it really doesnt happen that often anymore. You want the weed to feel soft but the stems MUST snap.


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## littlegiant (Oct 9, 2016)

This is an update on my new C-Vault containers I bought. I let my bud dry a bit longer and followed the directions to the tee.
Amazing ! No green hay smell, just perfectly cured bud.


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## hydra-glide (Oct 9, 2016)

And Happy Thanksgiving tomorrow/


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## Rollverine (Oct 20, 2016)

mr. green thumb 01 said:


> Experience- It didnt work for me and I feel that is to wet to go into jars I tried a few times not just once. Same problem as obijohn.. Terrible dark discoloration, loss of smell, and little bag appeal. I kinda think the rh in my house is to high for this and they NEVER dry. When I open my jars and 65-70% rh goes in there, they just get wetter. I like to get them nice and dry hanging the whole plant, trim, and then cure. The texture (moisture content) and smell go right where I want it during the cure. It also seems to take less time. Anyone having a large harvest would need a rack of rh meters and I just dont see that being practical. BTW thanks guys for opening this thread hopefully simond can now help some people understand this process better. For me and my drying this is where the cure starts and I quote from Simon *"60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.*" Leave them dry until the stem cracks when you bend it. I think the post is a little confusing as it first says start curing before the stem snaps and it is still pliable but then its followed up by curing starts when product is at 60-65% and STEM SNAPS.
> 
> Hopefully I didnt offend anyone from this post. Just trying to learn. Also I hope mature people can overlook previous debates and give good solid information with out the ridiculing.


Im sorry guys im crazy new , but what is RH? Room humidity?


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## ktmac20 (Oct 20, 2016)

relative humidity...


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Oct 20, 2016)

relative humidity, you want weed to end up around 62% moisture content, if the humidity is high, it takes a long time


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## Highpotummyes (Oct 23, 2016)

I found this useful 
https://www.theweedblog.com/the-art-of-curing-your-medical-marijuana/

So basically im trying to keep a small amount of aerobic bacteria alive to eat chlorophyll then by curing the act of suffocating kills off the bacteria eating my weed while keeping a bit of moisture for a nice burn. Ammonia smell and brown shwag came from me curing too early killing the aerobes i needed while proliferating nasty anaerobes. 
To summarize: aerobes smooth the smoke while anaerobes make nasty mold. Too fast of a dry kills aerobes with too little moisture. So brown bags breathe enough for aerobes to eat just enough while taking moisture away from anaerobes. Correct me if I'm wrong I'm still figuring this out


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Oct 23, 2016)

you seem to have grasped the theory


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## ganjammin707 (Oct 25, 2016)

Growing, this is the one thing I have yet to master to perfection, so i really appreciate the post, I am going to put this to work next harvest!!


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## thejonbears420 (Nov 1, 2016)

Rollverine said:


> Im sorry guys im crazy new , but what is RH? Room humidity?


Relative humidity


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## Indacouch (Nov 3, 2016)

Before going into cure OGK
 
After curing for a bit over a month now 
 
Never really see before and afters I do all mine by feel in food grade bags just because of the amount I have to cure .....but I love when the aromas and the appearance of our hard work starts to become evident .....cup of coffee and bottom nug are my breakfast 

Same batch in pics above only difference is cure time OG kush


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## tripleD (Nov 27, 2016)

I cut. I trim. I hang. I wait 3-5 days (depending on plant type, size, and time of year). I put in paper bag for 1 day. I jar with my hygrometer. I burp 3-4 times a day until I get a constant reading of around 60%RH & then I put in a Boveda 62 pack.... I'm smoking bud right now that I cured right before Xmas of last year & it still smells & tastes great! GL


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## ktmac20 (Nov 27, 2016)

I wait until mine gets down to 55%


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## tripleD (Nov 27, 2016)

ktmac20 said:


> View attachment 3840530 View attachment 3840533
> 
> I wait until mine gets down to 55%


I get a lil nervous if I let it drop below 60%. I had a bad experience last year so now I shoot for 60%.
Nice Bud... Is it a Blue Mystic??


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## ktmac20 (Nov 27, 2016)

What was your bad experience? I start mine at 65-70%. If actually at 70% or above I will take em out of the jars and let em air for 24 hrs which usually drops em at 2 %.

So far this process has worked for me.with no bad experiences 

The strain is "The Black" 

Cheers


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## tripleD (Nov 27, 2016)

ktmac20 said:


> What was your bad experience? I start mine at 65-70%. If actually at 70% or above I will take em out of the jars and let em air for 24 hrs which usually drops em at 2 %.
> 
> So far this process has worked for me.with no bad experiences
> 
> ...


I had my bud at 61% and decided to leave it out a little longer & it dropped to about 52% I think (I'd have to go back & read my post that I sent to Dr Who to remember exactly) & I cldnt get it back up even after leaving Bov62 pack in the jar. It smoked, but it wasn't that enjoyable...


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## ktmac20 (Nov 27, 2016)

Oh yah, right! If you dry it to 55% or less before you jar you have lost your value for a cure!

I prefer to error on the +% side and, as I wrote above if the rh is 70%+ I just let em air for 24hrs...better to err on the high side than the low side of RH.

Cheers


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## hydra-glide (Dec 3, 2016)

LittleT said:


> have tried storing for several months but no great smell!!!


From what I read, the way to gain that OG heft and smell is to *let the buds ripen longer. *The trich coloration takes place over a long period. Probably helps to remove the "done" branches first and let the under-done branches grow bigger, and they will pretty fast.
I'm searching mine daily for ripe branches. I'm flushing my plants with *pH'd tap water*, *Humboldt SnowUltra*, and *Budswel*. *No nutes*. *No silica after 4-weeks of flowering*. Trying to cleanse the nutes out of the plants while *stoking the bud trichs with enhancers. *
What I've found out about myself is that yes, I do have "*hands of god", *and have become a regular *2-season* *know-it-all*.


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Dec 3, 2016)

I tried some of the "enhancers" most of them are sugar water with PK boost...I can make that in my kitchen, if I thought there was any use in it. UV light will get you better trich production than that stuff. And how is a plant supposed to produce anything when you wash everything it needs to grow out of the medium?


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## hydra-glide (Dec 3, 2016)

Roger A. Shrubber said:


> And how is a plant supposed to produce anything when you wash everything it needs to grow out of the medium?


Good point. My situation is that I didn't give this group the required 14-hrs. of sun and they started flowering early. I upcanned them to (7) gal. felt-pots and began giving them bloom nutes, so there went the root-ability. Because the roots stayed wide spread and shallow, the nutes that shipped with FoxFarms, are still locked into the medium. By making sure that the pH is *6.5 - 6.8* I'm sure that the medium is buffering the liquids down to *6.1 - 6.2*, because I've been capturing the *run-of*f. *HEY!* I'm not using the Ph test solution any more. I use the Home Depot's Ph meter $12. and it never fails. You need to wait *one-full minute* for the correct reading to adjust, "but you'll never use test solution (or hear surf music) again. - Jimi Hendrix
I'll snap a pic of them roasting against their lathe fence, half-surrounded by a mountain range of Landscape Waste containers, their faces towards the sun. *Baking crazy* and sucking up the *SnowStormUltra* (it's not sugar water!! it says so on the label, and are those people up in Humboldt going to lie to a USN Vet? Hale no!) and *Budswel* Bat-poop refined. Motor-scooter!! Smoooothe hitting is what I'm expecting. _*"This bud has about 10-14 days to go. I see white hairs", is what farmer would say.*_
Listen up! If this were a parachute, I'd jump out of a plane with it. Keep the tip clean. It works, Pretty soon, you'll be testing the pH of everything you see.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Soil-Master-pH-Meter-1230/204373751
•••••••••••••••••••••••
"Smooth hitting is what *your not* going to be receiving, because *you want to flush-out all of the SnowUltra and Budswel from the plants now, not add more!*", said *HydroJoe*. "When we flush our plants, usually (*10*) days because that's what seems to work best through the years. I'm sold on *Heavy 16 / Finish* (soluble potash *0-0-1*) and feed them (*3*) times before flushing them the remaining days with just pH'd chlorine/filtered water." http://www.heavy16.com/
[*20ml./gal h2o for coco and 15ml for soil/mix*] Note: the bottle directions read much different amounts. *Forgetabout the bottle directions. We're on HydroJoe directions.
*
So my next (3) flush-watering's will be with pH'd water [of 6.8] with *15ml of Heavy 16 - Finish*. That's my creed now *Heavy-16* and I'm sticking to it.
I couldn't shoot the pics in the direct sun...*t*oo much glare reflecting off the trichs!
*Note: Hydro Guy said to mix all additives thoroughly before adding the next additive. This is how the additives bond to the molecules in the water. Likewise, adding silica to pH's water first before other nutes right? Well, everything needs it's own separate mixing time. Get a stick!*


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Dec 3, 2016)

I didn't say anything about not checking pH. I use vegamatrix right now, and it pH'es itself...if you use the chart they provide. However, their chart will burn all but the heaviest feeding breeds, So I make my own schedule and have to check or it'll be all over hell. I also use silica once a week till second week of flower, which requires a lot of down to equalize. So I'm a pH checker.
As far as the additives go, I use the "Big and Sticky" from Vega. at half strength, from week three through seven. honestly not sure it makes a huge difference, don't think I'll use it again when this quart runs out. The best thing I've found so far is UV light. If the additives work for you, rock em. I just am finding that less is more in a lot of things.


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## black jesus (Dec 20, 2016)

Ok just jarred a few days ago but I'm still above 70% I even took the buds out and let them sit for 2 hours...now I have to got on a trip from friday til monday. Should I leave the bud out to dry for a day or 2 then jar up while I'm gone...


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## tripleD (Dec 20, 2016)

I would put them in brown paper bags in a dark dry place for about 6-8 hours and then I would jar them back up and check them after a couple of hours. They will most likely be in the high 60's and then I would just burp them every 3-4 hours for the next few days until you get ready to leave. Right before I left I would put a Boveda 62 pack in the jar if I had any. GL


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## black jesus (Dec 20, 2016)

tripleD said:


> I would put them in brown paper bags in a dark dry place for about 6-8 hours and then I would jar them back up and check them after a couple of hours. They will most likely be in the high 60's and then I would just burp them every 3-4 hours for the next few days until you get ready to leave. Right before I left I would put a Boveda 62 pack in the jar if I had any. GL


Thanks I'm going to do that when I get home


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## revengefor2008 (Dec 20, 2016)

Forgive me if this has been answered but my adderall wore off after only reading half of this thread...
I've got my buds in a mason jar with the lid on tight. I'm reading 64% RH after 24 hours in a sealed jar. At that point should I just leave the lids on and not burp them? I haven't done this in 10 years and I never had a hygrometer back then so I'm not used to all of this new "sciency" stuff. Thanks for feedback.


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## CannaBruh (Dec 20, 2016)

revengefor2008 said:


> Forgive me if this has been answered but my adderall wore off after only reading half of this thread...
> I've got my buds in a mason jar with the lid on tight. I'm reading 64% RH after 24 hours in a sealed jar. At that point should I just leave the lids on and not burp them? I haven't done this in 10 years and I never had a hygrometer back then so I'm not used to all of this new "sciency" stuff. Thanks for feedback.


is it stable at 64% or is it climbing still, if it's stable maybe it's ok to leave it shut up? I'm new to using the hygrometers, but what I'm seeing is that if the RH is gonna go up it is typically happening fairly quickly, minutes to few hours. You might be stable enough at 64% to leave it closed up?


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## revengefor2008 (Dec 20, 2016)

My RH hasn't changed in the past few hours and it's been 24 hours since I put it in with the buds. So yes, I'd say it's stabilized. So again, once it's stabilized within the 60% +/- range does that mean I should leave the lids sealed and not "burp" them?


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## black jesus (Dec 20, 2016)

revengefor2008 said:


> My RH hasn't changed in the past few hours and it's been 24 hours since I put it in with the buds. So yes, I'd say it's stabilized. So again, once it's stabilized within the 60% +/- range does that mean I should leave the lids sealed and not "burp" them?


It says it on the first page of these thread..I think you need to get between 55 and 60


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## revengefor2008 (Dec 20, 2016)

Exactly. But that still doesn't answer the question:
Once I get it to that 55-60% RH, do I need to worry about "burping" the jar or do I just seal it up and let it go????? I am at the recommended RH now. Do I need to "burp" the jars like we did in "the old days" 10 years ago or not?


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## black jesus (Dec 20, 2016)

revengefor2008 said:


> Exactly. But that still doesn't answer the question:
> Once I get it to that 55-60% RH, do I need to worry about "burping" the jar or do I just seal it up and let it go????? I am at the recommended RH now. Do I need to "burp" the jars like we did in "the old days" 10 years ago or not?


Last time i didnt...your going to be burping everytime you take some out or just want to smell it anyways.. the more you open it the more your shortening the life of the bud...it is so easy to dry out


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Dec 20, 2016)

i would open them for about an hour once a week till they got to 62% rh, then i would leave them alone


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## revengefor2008 (Dec 20, 2016)

Roger A. Shrubber said:


> i would open them for about an hour once a week till they got to 62% rh, then i would leave them alone


Thank you for setting the record straight. BTW, I happen to be a card carrying member of the knights who say, "NI."


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## tripleD (Dec 20, 2016)

revengefor2008 said:


> Exactly. But that still doesn't answer the question:
> Once I get it to that 55-60% RH, do I need to worry about "burping" the jar or do I just seal it up and let it go????? I am at the recommended RH now. Do I need to "burp" the jars like we did in "the old days" 10 years ago or not?


If you are smoking out of it then you will be burping it enough when you take some weed out to smoke, but if you are planning on storing it then I would leave the hygro in for a week & check RH once a day (without opening jar) & if RH doesn't change at all then after the week is up I would take out hygrometer & store it.


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## tripleD (Dec 20, 2016)

black jesus said:


> It says it on the first page of these thread..I think you need to get between 55 and 60


You want to stay below 63% to avoid mold from growing, you also want to store away from light & heat.


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## revengefor2008 (Dec 20, 2016)

Good info, thanks. Just getting back into growing after a hiatus. Didn't know how exact the process can be using a hygrometer before reading this thread. Curing used to make me feel like a blind man at an orgy, having to feel my way around. It really is awesome being back at it, especially with all the info available here. Thanks again and Merry Christmas!


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## rickyrozayyy (Jan 1, 2017)

Bovedas are a must!!!! Anyone here doing 24 or 48 of darkness before the chop??


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## tripleD (Jan 1, 2017)

rickyrozayyy said:


> Bovedas are a must!!!! Anyone here doing 24 or 48 of darkness before the chop??


I tried both, but never saw any benefit myself. I would grow 4 plants & put 2 in 48darkness & 2 not in darkness & I would not see any noticeable difference


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## rickyrozayyy (Jan 1, 2017)

tripleD said:


> I tried both, but never saw any benefit myself. I would grow 4 plants & put 2 in 48darkness & 2 not in darkness & I would not see any noticeable difference


Thanks for the input... yet to try it. Thought it would help somewhat with flavor... being that when they're sleep the nutes run back down the plant and into the root system.


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## tripleD (Jan 1, 2017)

rickyrozayyy said:


> Thanks for the input... yet to try it. Thought it would help somewhat with flavor... being that when they're sleep the nutes run back down the plant and into the root system.


Some people swear by it, but I wld blind taste test with friends and no one cld tell the difference either. But maybe none of us have a professional grade "taste testing tongue".... try saying that 3 times Fast while baked!


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## rickyrozayyy (Jan 1, 2017)

LOL for sure bro... I definitely flush.. usually 5-10 days before chop. Sometimes there ride out a little longer then expected.


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## tripleD (Jan 1, 2017)

rickyrozayyy said:


> LOL for sure bro... I definitely flush.. usually 5-10 days before chop. Sometimes there ride out a little longer then expected.


I tried flushing as well, & Cldnt see any tangible improvement, so now I don't flush or put in darkness, but like I said b4, lots of people do, & some swear by it.


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## tripleD (Jan 1, 2017)

rickyrozayyy said:


> LOL for sure bro... I definitely flush.. usually 5-10 days before chop. Sometimes there ride out a little longer then expected.


So many things with growing are just each persons personal preference. I use Boveda 62's for example, & some people refuse to use them because they claim that they reduce potency over time, & yet I have buds that are a year old & no one can tell the difference from some of the buds that are only a couple months old...


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## rickyrozayyy (Jan 1, 2017)

Flushing has definitely made a difference for my harvests. Especially with smell and taste. I use a sour dee product along with mag when I flush... I also do my own trimming. And I've switch over to trimming wet. Works better. Less breakage.


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## hydra-glide (Jan 1, 2017)

I flushed this last grow for *10-days @ 15 mls. per gal.* of *Heavy-16*, that consisted of *flood-watering every 2-days.* The quart cost me $18., I still have a pint left for the next grow. Farmer advised me that it can take months in storage for buds to develop a smooth taste. I'm for flushing, Farmer's not, though he has in the past.


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Jan 2, 2017)

any science you can find will tell you flushing is bullshit. ask any farmer that grows any kind of food crop, that grows tobacco, that grows anything, they'll tell you the whole concept is wrong and does nothing but deprive your plants of nutrients. you CANNOT remove nutrients from a plant with water. period. cannot. not with the whole ocean and a funnel. what you're doing is leeching your medium. that starves your plant. thats not a good thing.
its actually hard to find any info on this practice, because no one else in the entire world uses it, because its ridiculous, a waste of time, and potentially harmful to your plants.
i can't believe people are still doing this. and spending money on useless products....you're trying to remove stuff from your plant, so you add more stuff.....makes as much sense as the whole concept to begin with


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Jan 2, 2017)

boveda packs are for maintaining proper humidity once you get it there with proper drying and curing. the reason it takes months for your weed to smell decent is you aren't drying and curing properly...which i find ironic, as the whole first few pages of this thread tells you how to do just that


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## tripleD (Jan 2, 2017)

Roger A. Shrubber said:


> boveda packs are for maintaining proper humidity once you get it there with proper drying and curing. the reason it takes months for your weed to smell decent is you aren't drying and curing properly...which i find ironic, as the whole first few pages of this thread tells you how to do just that


Yea, I don't flush, & I don't do the 48 hrs of darkness, but I do use boveda packs for long term storage, or to help rise the humidity a little if I accidentally hang my plant a little to long.


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## CannaBruh (Jan 2, 2017)

Roger A. Shrubber said:


> you CANNOT remove nutrients from a plant with water. period. cannot. not with the whole ocean and a funnel. what you're doing is leeching your medium. that starves your plant. thats not a good thing.


This assumes that the intent is to "remove nutrients from a plant" which is misinformed. Plenty of people feed their plants plain water at the end/near harvest (flush) with great results. Feed to the end if you want.

Many would rebuttal that it is a good thing, and watch the plants fade out before harvest.

Excuse me while I add soap to my hands in efforts to remove dirt... funny concept, subtraction by addition.


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## ACitizenofColorado (Jan 5, 2017)

Is there anything that can be done if humidity has fallen too low: 42%? 

Apart from the taste, will the potency of the tree be diminished?

Thanks. I think I dried too long.


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## Rrog (Jan 5, 2017)

The chemical processes that are the "curing" part would have stopped by then and not re-started. 

You can re-hydrate the bud, but the curing won't restart


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Jan 5, 2017)

i think this answers most of your questions better than me trying to rephrase it
http://cannabis.com/faqs/growing/curing-does-curing-affect-potency.html


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## indicoxy12 (Jan 23, 2017)

ACitizenofColorado said:


> Is there anything that can be done if humidity has fallen too low: 42%?
> 
> Apart from the taste, will the potency of the tree be diminished?
> 
> Thanks. I think I dried too long.


How long did you dry for?? And did you hang yo whole plant just reading this forum right now I know it's old now


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## hydra-glide (Jan 23, 2017)

Last grow facts:
Tokyo OG, an Indica-Hyb notorious for high tHc content. Flowered for 47 of it's intended 60-62 days, before bud-rot forced chopping them down. I cleaned the bud to near smooth of sugar leaf and mason jarred them with 62RH packs. One to each qt. wide-mouth jar. The chlorophyll didn't evaporate for 46-days. Now when I pull a bud from the jar and use Friskar's scissors to remove every trace of sugar leaf (into the trim stock's Rubbermaid container), the *pure bud taste Tokyo* and the *OG comes through*. So, imo, *the longer you keep the cure under 62rh packets, the better*. Farmer told me they opened jars that had been *curing for 3 months* and the *not so good, was better and smoother*.
Also, because of time restraints, I had to put *a gob of Tokyo stalks into that 1-gallon cookie jar* I made, with only the big water leaves removed. The *secondary leaves are closer to the buds than water leaves*, but have no crystals, so they're *more like the corn husks that wrap tamales*. However, those leaves left on the stalk, and jarred with 62rh packs, will *dry crispy*, be *easy to remove to the trash can*, and leave the buds beneath the leaf-wraps are *moist and resinous maximas*. So, keep those *buds in 62rh packs and re-hydrate asap*. Let the cure continue. Mine are.
Liking the s/s w/ silicon seal wide-mouth lids a lot. *https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BD4Y4V2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1*


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## SimonD (Feb 25, 2017)

Roger A. Shrubber said:


> any science you can find will tell you flushing is bullshit. ask any farmer that grows any kind of food crop, that grows tobacco, that grows anything, they'll tell you the whole concept is wrong and does nothing but deprive your plants of nutrients. you CANNOT remove nutrients from a plant with water. period. cannot. not with the whole ocean and a funnel. what you're doing is leeching your medium. that starves your plant. thats not a good thing.
> its actually hard to find any info on this practice, because no one else in the entire world uses it, because its ridiculous, a waste of time, and potentially harmful to your plants.
> i can't believe people are still doing this. and spending money on useless products....you're trying to remove stuff from your plant, so you add more stuff.....makes as much sense as the whole concept to begin with


FWIW, I fully agree with you. Nice to see the thread moving along.


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## Moldy (Feb 27, 2017)

SimonD said:


> FWIW, I fully agree with you. Nice to see the thread moving along.


Thanks again Simon, I've used your method now since I first read this thread. Basically it takes the guess work out of it. BTW I use those dial spring/hygrometers. No batteries to replace and they are fairly accurate.

Oh shit! That was 5 years ago!!


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## ravie (Mar 29, 2017)

with boveda 62% rh , curing is at its best..


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## Helmut79 (Apr 13, 2017)

About the first post - You're talking about which RH I should be aiming at, but RH depends on temperature - relative humidity - humidity that is related to temperature. RH changes alot if temp is changed only few degrees.

So about that ideal 60-65% of RH - what temp are we talking about?


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Apr 13, 2017)

i find that 60 rh at 70-72 F is just about perfect, lower temps would call for lower rh...


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## StainTheBrain (Apr 18, 2017)

Sorry if this has been answered already, but I'm a little fuzzy on the process. So you're saying, trim the bud while it's on the stem, let dry until the flower is slightly dry, but stems aren't snapped, and cut it from the stems? So remove the flower while the stems are still bendy? Then into jars?


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Apr 19, 2017)

pretty much. i like to let them get pretty crispy on the outside before i jar them, then for the next couple of days i'll pour them out for an hour or two to let them dry, jar them for 4 or 5 hours, repeat for a day or two till it starts to feel like they're not getting wet again that quick when i seal them up. then i go to opening them for about 20 minutes twice a day till they start to feel right. then its once every 3 or 4 days

i cut them off the stems when i jar them, kind of hard to fit 8 and 12 inch long chunks into mason jars
a lot of people talk about the stems, i quit trying to use that as an indicator, i just feel the buds now, seems to be a lot more accurate to me


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## Mr.Head (Apr 19, 2017)

Roger A. Shrubber said:


> pretty much. i like to let them get pretty crispy on the outside before i jar them, then for the next couple of days i'll pour them out for an hour or two to let them dry, jar them for 4 or 5 hours, repeat for a day or two till it starts to feel like they're not getting wet again that quick when i seal them up. then i go to opening them for about 20 minutes twice a day till they start to feel right. then its once every 3 or 4 days
> 
> i cut them off the stems when i jar them, kind of hard to fit 8 and 12 inch long chucks into mason jars


This is pretty much exactly how I do it. A lot of is based on feels of the buds for me

I also like to use the smaller wide mouth mason jars. A) If mold does happen, if I get distracted by life and don't open jars it's minimal amounts effected B) I got big fucking hands lol. Those small mouth fuckers are no bueno when my hands are always covered in cuts. 

I also like to flip my jars so the buds on the bottom have air on top every day.


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## Mr.Head (Apr 19, 2017)

really glad I just stumbled upon this thread, it reminded me to dump my trim jar out lol. that could been BAD.


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## yosim (Jun 15, 2017)

Ive noticed that even when my jars get into the 62-65% range i still have to either open the jars for a while every day or take the buds out altogether for a little while- otherwise i get that kinda chorophyll smell which will go into the buds over time


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## Tim Fox (Jun 16, 2017)

i use the paper bag method,, simple works,


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## yosim (Jun 16, 2017)

Tim Fox said:


> i use the paper bag method,, simple works,


You dont use jars at all? I might look into using paper bags next time just to see


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## cuddlesthesheep (Jul 3, 2017)

Currently running around 69-74 degrees @ 50-60% humidity for my hang. Good?


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Jul 3, 2017)

that rh is a little low, if you can get the rh to 65%, it slows it down just a little, then you can put it in the jars and burp it down the last couple of points to 63%


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## Lemoncandy (Jul 7, 2017)

SimonD said:


> Heh, it's as if folks would rater argue than grow lots of bud. When I started out, I identified a number of growers I wanted to learn from, shut my mouth and listened for a hell of a long time, while putting in the hours in my own garden. Here, the less experience you have, the louder you are. No thanks.
> 
> Simon


Gospel!


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## Tx-Peanutt (Jul 11, 2017)

I've been drying for 3 days at 71 degrees with 52% humidity it rises to 58 % at the most should I put in jars to c how they do I felt them at lunch and they were dry to the touch but stem didn't snap it bends


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## HydoDan (Jul 11, 2017)

Tim Fox said:


> i use the paper bag method,, simple works,


Glad to see I'm not the only one using the old school paper bag method.. What are we gonna use when they do away with them? I've got a rack and jars but I prefer the bags...


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## Tx-Peanutt (Jul 11, 2017)

HydoDan said:


> Glad to see I'm not the only one using the old school paper bag method.. What are we gonna use when they do away with them? I've got a rack and jars but I prefer the bags...


R the bags a better than jars ? And why r they better


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## Tim Fox (Jul 11, 2017)

HydoDan said:


> Glad to see I'm not the only one using the old school paper bag method.. What are we gonna use when they do away with them? I've got a rack and jars but I prefer the bags...


i started using the paper bag method after 25 years of not growing,, i wanted to do everything as EASY as possible , i gravitate to easy,, and the paper bag method is just that,, i have recieved a perfect cure the past 2 years thru 5 crop cycles using it,, and some of my stuff is now approaching 2 years in the jars, and the MJ is perfect,, smokes great,, seems to be better with age,, why would i ever change?,, i dont have to purchase humidity sacks,, its so simple,, a few jar burps after the bags,, but nothing major,, it fits with my working full time too,, the bags take care of my buds if i cant get to them,, i like that,, i could go on and on about Easy,,


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## HydoDan (Jul 11, 2017)

The bags are more forgiving... They absorb the moisture then wick it away. Slowly.. The weed is always breathing so it won't mold as easily.. It's the way I learned back in the 70s


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## Tim Fox (Jul 11, 2017)

HydoDan said:


> The bags are more forgiving... They absorb the moisture then wick it away. Slowly.. The weed is always breathing so it won't mold as easily.. It's the way I learned back in the 70s


thankfully here in Oregon they are keeping the paper sacks for now,, but maybe i should stock pile some in the barn,, at least to last till i am dust


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## Tx-Peanutt (Jul 12, 2017)

HydoDan said:


> The bags are more forgiving... They absorb the moisture then wick it away. Slowly.. The weed is always breathing so it won't mold as easily.. It's the way I learned back in the 70s


K kool I will try on my next attempt on the grow train .... Once my beans arrive I will be starting fresh with a lot of stuff I messed up on the last one and all the advise I got on r.i.u.


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## Craigson (Jul 15, 2017)

budbro18 said:


> I have seen this method before and its worked for everyone whos tried it.
> 
> But ive figured out a way to speed the cure process up in a way...
> 
> ...


Whats the rh n temp in your drying tent like?
Mine will be around 21degrees and 60%rh. I have 500cfm exhaust and cpl oscilating fans.
Just wondering if I should run exhaust 24/7 or every 5hrs.
I do have a mini dehumidifier I can have come on when the exhaust is off to keep the rh in check


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## cuddlesthesheep (Jul 15, 2017)

Just did a great hang dry on my SinMintCookies. Hung for 9 days @ 60-65% in 68-72°. Smell is great going into the jars. Gonna burp less that I normally do. Maybe once a day for a week then once every 3-4 days after that.


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## churchhaze (Jul 27, 2017)

Tim Fox said:


> i started using the paper bag method after 25 years of not growing,, i wanted to do everything as EASY as possible , i gravitate to easy,, and the paper bag method is just that,, i have recieved a perfect cure the past 2 years thru 5 crop cycles using it,, and some of my stuff is now approaching 2 years in the jars, and the MJ is perfect,, smokes great,, seems to be better with age,, why would i ever change?,, i dont have to purchase humidity sacks,, its so simple,, a few jar burps after the bags,, but nothing major,, it fits with my working full time too,, the bags take care of my buds if i cant get to them,, i like that,, i could go on and on about Easy,,


This exactly. Most Growers are *obsessed* with getting their stuff in a curing jar at 60% humidity, etc etc, "the perfect cure". It's to a point where people will suggest to make extracts because "it was ruined by drying too much".

You could leave your stuff out to dry for months and it will come out just fine. Hell yeah it will dry out too much. Crumbly dry weed is THE BEST.


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## Tim Fox (Jul 27, 2017)

churchhaze said:


> This exactly. Most Growers are *obsessed* with getting their stuff in a curing jar at 60% humidity, etc etc, "the perfect cure". It's to a point where people will suggest to make extracts because "it was ruined by drying too much".
> 
> You could leave your stuff out to dry for months and it will come out just fine. Hell yeah it will dry out too much. Crumbly dry weed is THE BEST.


it still comes out of the jars pretty darn nice,, but when left out in a baggie in the summer here,, it can turn crumbly fast,, but that stuff makes great joints, for around the campfire


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## Tx-Peanutt (Jul 31, 2017)

I have been curing some bud for almost a month and it is getting way better the flavor has changed also .. it had a citrus smell to it that was loud and a hay smell kinda..(It was a swag seed no genetics) now it smells pretty good for being swag.... I'm about to start a short rider and Northern lights auto from nirvana ... I can't wait to see what there gonna do


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## Braman (Aug 17, 2017)

Hello. What could cause buds go airy.. After drying density has lowered a lot.. I have not startet curing, waiting till RH drops below 60%


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## Braman (Aug 19, 2017)

its + 30 C outside and I cant get lower than 70% rh in my clothes wardrobe.. I guess i will buy dehumidifier, those with tablets inside. Are they ok?


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## mmajunkie100 (Aug 19, 2017)

Boveda pack 60% humidity


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## Philip-O (Oct 19, 2017)

Hello! I would like to pick your brains regarding a possiblity that was mentioned early in the thread, although I did not see any further developments of it. It is about setting up a fridge to work as a "curing chamber" using electrical temperature and humidity controllers to power on/off said fridge and a small electronic humidifier, as the meat curing people do (carefully cured buds and meat sounds fun). Would it be worth it (for cure and medium/long term storage) to be able to keep to product at about 50f, and control humidity at will?

This is the kind of project I´m talking about, just that I´m curious if it could be used for bud as well. http://mattikaarts.com/blog/meat-curing-at-home-the-setup/


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## indicoxy12 (Oct 19, 2017)

Thanks for the link ill do some research on this my batch is airy and still smell like grass after weeks of curing (since sept5) next grow ima let the plant dehydrate before chop im tired of this shit


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Oct 19, 2017)

Philip-O said:


> Hello! I would like to pick your brains regarding a possiblity that was mentioned early in the thread, although I did not see any further developments of it. It is about setting up a fridge to work as a "curing chamber" using electrical temperature and humidity controllers to power on/off said fridge and a small electronic humidifier, as the meat curing people do (carefully cured buds and meat sounds fun). Would it be worth it (for cure and medium/long term storage) to be able to keep to product at about 50f, and control humidity at will?
> 
> This is the kind of project I´m talking about, just that I´m curious if it could be used for bud as well. http://mattikaarts.com/blog/meat-curing-at-home-the-setup/


 yeah, i believe that would work great, i'm thinking about it now myself


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## macsnax (Oct 19, 2017)

Philip-O said:


> Hello! I would like to pick your brains regarding a possiblity that was mentioned early in the thread, although I did not see any further developments of it. It is about setting up a fridge to work as a "curing chamber" using electrical temperature and humidity controllers to power on/off said fridge and a small electronic humidifier, as the meat curing people do (carefully cured buds and meat sounds fun). Would it be worth it (for cure and medium/long term storage) to be able to keep to product at about 50f, and control humidity at will?
> 
> This is the kind of project I´m talking about, just that I´m curious if it could be used for bud as well. http://mattikaarts.com/blog/meat-curing-at-home-the-setup/


Your comparing apples to oranges with meat to weed. But.... I see what you're going for and I'm sure it is possible. The thing with curing weed is if it's done properly it never leaves its curing area. Take mason jars for example, you cure and store in them. My weed that is in long term storage just keeps getting better, every time I get about half way through a new jar of pot if find myself thinking damn that's better than the last one. It's a noticeable difference. I keep them in a dark space at about 60℉. It's all in the technique that you use to control your cure environment. Anyways sorry for the rant, but I do think you can do what you're trying. You will just have to experiment to get it dialed. Good luck.


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## Philip-O (Oct 19, 2017)

macsnax said:


> Your comparing apples to oranges with meat to weed. But.... I see what you're going for and I'm sure it is possible. The thing with curing weed is if it's done properly it never leaves its curing area. Take mason jars for example, you cure and store in them. My weed that is in long term storage just keeps getting better, every time I get about half way through a new jar of pot if find myself thinking damn that's better than the last one. It's a noticeable difference. I keep them in a dark space at about 60℉. It's all in the technique that you use to control your cure environment. Anyways sorry for the rant, but I do think you can do what you're trying. You will just have to experiment to get it dialed. Good luck.





Roger A. Shrubber said:


> yeah, i believe that would work great, i'm thinking about it now myself


Seems like a [literally] cool project and not too complicated, right? It might be way overkill though, so that is why I´m interested in hearing how much value is placed on close control of temp./humidity (+ being able to dry and cure at lower temps). 

@macsnax , I realize that temps./humidity requirements are quite different for curing weed and meat and that they change at different stages of the processes, etc. But since the equipment is capable of doing both, I guess that with proper cleaning it could be used between harvests to dry age steaks, keep brines, etc. 

Once the weed reaches a proper state (a stable 60%RH perhaps?), I would jar it, probably using my foodsaver jar "
"sealer" attachment.


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Oct 19, 2017)

62% is supposed to be "perfect" for weed, just enough to allow curing, not enough to allow mold or mildew


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## macsnax (Oct 20, 2017)

Philip-O said:


> Seems like a [literally] cool project and not too complicated, right? It might be way overkill though, so that is why I´m interested in hearing how much value is placed on close control of temp./humidity (+ being able to dry and cure at lower temps).
> 
> @macsnax , I realize that temps./humidity requirements are quite different for curing weed and meat and that they change at different stages of the processes, etc. But since the equipment is capable of doing both, I guess that with proper cleaning it could be used between harvests to dry age steaks, keep brines, etc.
> 
> ...


I hear you man, projects like yours are fun. I would keep in mind that curing at a low temp slows the cure. But a longer, slower cure turns out better. Keep us posted on your adventures.


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## Grimtek (Oct 29, 2017)

Hey everyone! Im new to the forum and had some questions'for a buddy'

So he just harvested. And hes about to go out of state without anyone to watch over his spot. My question is how would one go about drying cannabis while traveling? 
Maybe just jar and burp alot till they r dry and then start the cure? If anyone has some info they can drop to help my buddy out please feel free to let me in on the process. Thanks in advance yall


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## Moldy (Oct 30, 2017)

If he's just hung the stems to dry the buds down in average conditions he probably has a week +/- a day before they need jarring. If he's jarred them already it shouldn't be a huge problem if they're under 70 rh. They be okay for a week or so.


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## Grimtek (Oct 30, 2017)

Moldy said:


> If he's just hung the stems to dry the buds down in average conditions he probably has a week +/- a day before they need jarring. If he's jarred them already it shouldn't be a huge problem if they're under 70 rh. They be okay for a week or so.


 thanks for the quick reply, ill have him try that


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## dannyboy602 (Dec 9, 2017)

It's nice to see this thread still up. It's taught probably thousands of growers to dry/cure the right way. Wonder whatever happened to SimonD?


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## tripleD (Dec 10, 2017)

macsnax said:


> Your comparing apples to oranges with meat to weed. But.... I see what you're going for and I'm sure it is possible. The thing with curing weed is if it's done properly it never leaves its curing area. Take mason jars for example, you cure and store in them. My weed that is in long term storage just keeps getting better, every time I get about half way through a new jar of pot if find myself thinking damn that's better than the last one. It's a noticeable difference. I keep them in a dark space at about 60℉. It's all in the technique that you use to control your cure environment. Anyways sorry for the rant, but I do think you can do what you're trying. You will just have to experiment to get it dialed. Good luck.


How long have you stored before throwing away?


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## tripleD (Dec 10, 2017)

I store in mason jars, but after about 10 months I throw away whatever is left. It eventually turns brown and it tends to give me a lil headache at that point....Does this sound about right or should I be able to store it longer than this??


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## macsnax (Dec 10, 2017)

I


tripleD said:


> How long have you stored before throwing away?


I have some Bruce banner from about 9 months back. No browning yet, try boveda packs.


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## tripleD (Dec 10, 2017)

macsnax said:


> I
> 
> I have some Bruce banner from about 9 months back. No browning yet, try boveda packs.


Yea, I use the Boveda 62% humidity packs.
I love growing, but I'm not a big smoker, so I give a lot away, but I just wish I cld find away to store it inexpensively for about 1.5yrs instead of only 8-10 months...


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## macsnax (Dec 10, 2017)

Try vacuum sealing in mason jar with a boveda. There's a few around here that talk of a year and a half shelf life. Are you storing in a cool and dark place too?


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Dec 10, 2017)

it should store for years if you've cured it right. as long as its close to 62% rh in the jar when you seal it up, it should finish its cure and then just get better for quite a while, but even when it finishes curing, it should hold there for at least a couple of years, if not longer. i've smoked weed that was 5 years in the jar, and it still tasted good, and got me fucked up.


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## Moldy (Dec 11, 2017)

Roger A. Shrubber said:


> it should store for years if you've cured it right. as long as its close to 62% rh in the jar when you seal it up, it should finish its cure and then just get better for quite a while, but even when it finishes curing, it should hold there for at least a couple of years, if not longer. i've smoked weed that was 5 years in the jar, and it still tasted good, and got me fucked up.


Yeah, I go for two years sometimes. I had a surprise yield with HSO strains and kept them over two years. Jarred at 61-63% RH and kept in a fridge at 55F. Thanks Simon!


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## Aslan (Jan 19, 2018)

SimonD said:


> This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.
> 
> It's a very simple and effective process:
> 
> ...



Thanks for this!


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## gotty (Feb 16, 2018)

YoungBezzle said:


> Simon Wattz Up Bruh I Was Wondering If You Are Anybody In This Thread Has Ever Heard Of Or Used The Boveda 62% Humidipaks? I've Recently Purchased Some Along With Some Cvault Containers And Have Yet To Use Them But I Pretty Sure They Are Gonna Do The Trick! They Were Featured in HighTimes And Every Review I've Read From Growers Who Use Them Were Positive. All You Gotta Do Is Dry Your Buds Until Your Stems Almost Snap, Drop Your Buds In The Jar Along With Your Boveda Humidipak And BOOM! You're Done! No Burping, No Opening Your Jars! The trick is to leave the proper moisture content in the bud, in relation to it&#8217;s particular density. Relative humidity, and air temperature when jarring will play a role as well. Leaving just enough water and air to allow the "Beneficial" bacteria to feed on the chlorophyll And Starch, but not enough to proliferate throughout the jar. When they run out of air, they die. So opening the jar is counterproductive to curing. The Humidipaks Will Lower Or Raise The Rh To 62%. I Think These Paks Are A Must Have For Beginners And A Nice Addition To The Experienced Growers Arsenal Of "Pot Growing Gadgets"! kiss-ass


Read your post followed the link for boveda..created account ...checkout pack of 12 ...56$...OK...SHIPPING TO UK 58$ get fuct haha...just got 20 of the same shit..for.... £25 including postage...robbing twats m8...hoping success with your claim...cheers ...PEACE# youngbezzle


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## Tx-Peanutt (Feb 16, 2018)

gotty said:


> Read your post followed the link for boveda..created account ...checkout pack of 12 ...56$...OK...SHIPPING TO UK 58$ get fuct haha...just got 20 of the same shit..for.... £25 including postage...robbing twats m8...hoping success with your claim...cheers ...PEACE# youngbezzle


I think I paid about 20$ also for mine and they work really good keeping my bad nice and sticky but not wet


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## gotty (Apr 10, 2018)

SimonD said:


> This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.
> 
> It's a very simple and effective process:
> 
> ...


You say dont dry till stems snap....dont you mean dont cure till stems snap?


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## elkamino (Apr 10, 2018)

OP hasn’t been here for a year 


gotty said:


> You say dont dry till stems snap....dont you mean dont cure till stems snap?


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## macsnax (Apr 10, 2018)

A lot of times you hear people say to dry your buds until the stems snap when bent.... It's actually better to jar buds at a moisture level a little before they will snap.


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## JackStraw74 (Apr 11, 2018)

I jar before stems snap, put some boveda 62 in there and burp/open as needed. You can prolong the drying, you can not reverse it.. I go by touch, crispy outside gooey inside.. 
I wont take "drying times" as fact, every situation is unique.
I have dried to quick, very crappy feeling after all the time we put into this. Still had the effect, just had that leafy plant smell & taste... 


Have 3 of the same strain, same tent, same cut day.. 1 is already jarred with a crispy feel (3.5 days), the other two are still wet to the touch.. Probably 36 hours longer to dry those vs the first one which would be approx 5 days.. This is in a 73f tent at 65% RH, one fan indirect. I think some airflow may have hit the dry one, but not confident as the other two were hanging on either side of it..
RH is reading 72% after 12 hours in jar and buds softened up.. I got it down in time to slow the rest of the process. Boveda and burping it down the rest of the way..


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## Pig4buzz (Apr 11, 2018)

I just cut this past week. Hung for one strain 4 one 5. Both were pretty crisp on outside. The stems were still damp and didn’t snap. I put in jars rh showed 47%. I said fuck! One day in jar rh raised to 60%. Burped 6x since rh has stayed 59-60%. Three days now I went ahead and put boveda packs in jars. Nugs righting very nice. Roll in jar without sticking. 

All said if I would of waited for stem to snap it would of been way to dry. Rh was 58 with only a exhaust fan from start.


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## KiddaayyMomma (Apr 19, 2018)

SimonD said:


> This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.
> 
> It's a very simple and effective process:
> 
> ...


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## KiddaayyMomma (Apr 19, 2018)

Great information! Thank you! This little meter could be quite handy. I ruined my last batch by not curing it right. What a bummer! Wish I'd seen your post first!


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## KiddaayyMomma (Apr 19, 2018)

SimonD said:


> This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.
> 
> It's a very simple and effective process:
> 
> ...


----------



## KiddaayyMomma (Apr 19, 2018)




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## tripleD (Apr 23, 2018)

JackStraw74 said:


> I jar before stems snap, put some boveda 62 in there and burp/open as needed. You can prolong the drying, you can not reverse it.. I go by touch, crispy outside gooey inside..
> I wont take "drying times" as fact, every situation is unique.
> I have dried to quick, very crappy feeling after all the time we put into this. Still had the effect, just had that leafy plant smell & taste...
> 
> ...


Yea, I hang for 2.5-3days depending on temps/humidity in a very dark closet, jar them w boveda 62 and a moisture meter & I burp every few hours until moisture meter gets to 63-64 & then I shelf & check on them every few days...


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## Anon618 (Apr 26, 2018)

I have used the "stems snap" type analysis and i found that using that type of signal to jar is not always accurate. At 3 days i will check the bud by squeezing it. if i squeeze and it doesn't push back its ready to throw into the jar. At this point the RH after jarring comes in around 60 percent. When i have used the snap method as a signal my RH sometimes would be down in the low 50's and i would then have to throw in a bovida pack which i know is not the way to go.


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## randomuniqueusername (Jun 9, 2018)

From what I know, the sugar and chlorophyl (which both taste bad when burned) contained in fresh buds need water in order to break down. You must cure your weed until you reach the right coloration but curing further will degrade other substances that you would rather preserve...


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Jun 9, 2018)

randomuniqueusername said:


> From what I know, the sugar and chlorophyl (which both taste bad when burned) contained in fresh buds need water in order to break down. You must cure your weed until you reach the right coloration but curing further will degrade other substances that you would rather preserve...


the magic number with cannabis is 63%. above 63% and curing continues, once you drop below 63%, it stops, and you cannot restart it.
i'll hang till it feels and looks right, usually around a week, then cut it off the bigger stems and jar it. the first day or two i may leave it out of the jar more than in, then i slowly start leaving it out for less time, till it gets to about 66%, then i just dump it out and stir it around, let it set for 5 minutes, then it goes back in the jar, and i repeat that till its jjuuussstt above 63%, then it goes into dark storage till i want some of it.


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## Aolelon (Jun 12, 2018)

So is getting your RH to 63% in the jar important? Humidity in my area is high and I cant seem to get my jars below 66% humidity. Is it fine to cure them like this? Ive been burping the jars every 2-4 hours for about 20-30 minutes at a time for a week now and they just wont drop below 66%


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## Lucky Luke (Jun 13, 2018)

66% is fine.


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## tripleD (Jun 13, 2018)

Aolelon said:


> So is getting your RH to 63% in the jar important? Humidity in my area is high and I cant seem to get my jars below 66% humidity. Is it fine to cure them like this? Ive been burping the jars every 2-4 hours for about 20-30 minutes at a time for a week now and they just wont drop below 66%


Mold can be an issue. Try putting it in a brown paper bag for a couple of hours or longer if necessary until you get it down to 62%...


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## Aolelon (Jun 13, 2018)

tripleD said:


> Mold can be an issue. Try putting it in a brown paper bag for a couple of hours or longer if necessary until you get it down to 62%...


I've tried doing that as well.


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## meangreengrowinmachine (Jun 13, 2018)

could try getting a safe dehumidifier, they are made for gun safes and have a large amount of desiccant in them. You plug them in to "recharge" it and they are pretty cheap. Can usually be found at a big box hardware store. add one of these to the paper bag or like a sealed rubber maid. 

https://www.cabelas.com/product/Liberty-Safe-Mini-Dehumidifier/1550141.uts?productVariantId=3369889&WT.tsrc=PPC&WT.mc_id=GoogleProductAds&WT.z_mc_id1=03612020&rid=20&ds_rl=1252079&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvqyp0O3Q2wIVCxhpCh3aDg6zEAQYBCABEgKJbPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds


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## tripleD (Jun 13, 2018)

Aolelon said:


> I've tried doing that as well.


I wouldn’t store it long term at 66%, but if you want to smoke it quickly and are willing to take it out of the jar and air it out every day or so then it should be fine I think...


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## Aolelon (Jun 13, 2018)

tripleD said:


> Mold can be an issue. Try putting it in a brown paper bag for a couple of hours or longer if necessary until you get it down to 62%...


well is a 3% difference in humidity really going to make a huge difference?


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## tripleD (Jun 13, 2018)

Aolelon said:


> well is a 3% difference in humidity really going to make a huge difference?


Well, I stored sum last year at around 67% and by the time I got around to smoking it (5-6months later) about 20% of it had mold.


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## Aolelon (Jun 13, 2018)

tripleD said:


> Well, I stored sum last year at around 67% and by the time I got around to smoking it (5-6months later) about 20% of it had mold.


I got ya, I don't think ill be storing it more than a month or 2. The RH fluctuates. It will go down to 64%, then a couple hours later it will be back up to 66% so im just gonna burp it a little bit more and close them up


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Jun 13, 2018)

Aolelon said:


> well is a 3% difference in humidity really going to make a huge difference?


yes, the cut off for curing processes is 63% rh, when the weed drops below 63, the curing stops, and cannot be restarted.
once you get above 65% rh, the risk of mold starts to rise, so the sweet spot for curing is 64% rh, and temps under 70F.
it's not the end of the world if you can't get those exact numbers, those are just the optimums, but you do really need to keep an eye on it if you can't get your rh below 65%.


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## Aolelon (Jun 13, 2018)

Roger A. Shrubber said:


> yes, the cut off for curing processes is 63% rh, when the weed drops below 63, the curing stops, and cannot be restarted.
> once you get above 65% rh, the risk of mold starts to rise, so the sweet spot for curing is 64% rh, and temps under 70F.
> it's not the end of the world if you can't get those exact numbers, those are just the optimums, but you do really need to keep an eye on it if you can't get your rh below 65%.


I've been airing them outside the jars for 20mins at least once a day to hopefully inhibit any mold growth.


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Jun 13, 2018)

Aolelon said:


> I've been airing them outside the jars for 20mins at least once a day to hopefully inhibit any mold growth.


store them in a cool place if you can, mold won't die if you freeze it, but it has a harder time getting started at temps below 70, and will stay dormant until you warm it up if it is present.


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## Aolelon (Jun 13, 2018)

Roger A. Shrubber said:


> store them in a cool place if you can, mold won't die if you freeze it, but it has a harder time getting started at temps below 70, and will stay dormant until you warm it up if it is present.


The only place I can think is in my basement, but that's also where my tent is. The RH down there is around 66-67F and 66% RH whereas temps in my closet are around 75F and 56% RH. I know the temp increase can account for the RH drop though so maybe storing em down there would be better?


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## tripleD (Jun 13, 2018)

Aolelon said:


> I got ya, I don't think ill be storing it more than a month or 2. The RH fluctuates. It will go down to 64%, then a couple hours later it will be back up to 66% so im just gonna burp it a little bit more and close them up


Yea, if it’s fluctuating then just leave it out for an hour and then jar it back up and check on it about 30 minutes later. It will get there. I would also invest in some Boveda 62% packs to help maintain a constant %


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## Aolelon (Jun 13, 2018)

tripleD said:


> Yea, if it’s fluctuating then just leave it out for an hour and then jar it back up and check on it about 30 minutes later. It will get there. I would also invest in some Boveda 62% packs to help maintain a constant %


I have some already. I just wanted to see if I could do it without those, as I heard they can have an affect on taste/smell 0


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## Aolelon (Jun 13, 2018)

tripleD said:


> Yea, if it’s fluctuating then just leave it out for an hour and then jar it back up and check on it about 30 minutes later. It will get there. I would also invest in some Boveda 62% packs to help maintain a constant %


im pretty sure ill be able to get it down, I was just more along the lines of the what if I couldn't type of question. its been about a week and a half since I jarred them, and im actually glad its been so slow, as I think I cut them off the branch too soon.


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Jun 13, 2018)

75 is ok at 56% humidity, cooler would be better, but you should be ok with that


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## Aolelon (Jun 13, 2018)

Cool, Thanks for the help guys, much appreciated.


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## Tfunk0704 (Jun 20, 2018)

Rumple said:


> Lol, good luck.


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## Tfunk0704 (Jun 20, 2018)

This was supposed to be a laughing face


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## Frank Nitty (Jun 28, 2018)

Can I still do it if ive cut everything down to buds?


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## yosim (Aug 14, 2018)

my current crop is curing, meters are reading 62% - it has that weird kinda minty smell at the moment that always seems to happen, how often should i burp the jars to get rid of this and for how long?


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## macsnax (Aug 14, 2018)

yosim said:


> my current crop is curing, meters are reading 62% - it has that weird kinda minty smell at the moment that always seems to happen, how often should i burp the jars to get rid of this and for how long?


Now is when you want to slow it down and take your time getting it to whatever % you like your buds for smoking. As long as you don't go below 55%. At 62% I would only be burping once a day for a few minutes. At 60% I would only burp every few days to once a week.


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## Papykush (Aug 18, 2018)

I use a de-humitfier in my cureing room.also air conditioner,as needed <:> !!


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## TheDifferenceX (Aug 18, 2018)

Thanks for this awesome guide! I've been reading this over every day for the past week.

Look forward to my end results after following this.


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## Lewist (Aug 18, 2018)

This is really an amazing method, I have been using it and it work perfectly well.


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## Rollverine (Aug 28, 2018)

SimonD said:


> Heh, it's as if folks would rater argue than grow lots of bud. When I started out, I identified a number of growers I wanted to learn from, shut my mouth and listened for a hell of a long time, while putting in the hours in my own garden. Here, the less experience you have, the louder you are. No thanks.
> 
> Simon


 I am new post for help and out the gate dude runs his mouth. What ever happened to help with out condescending answers?


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## Beachwalker (Aug 28, 2018)

Aolelon said:


> well is a 3% difference in humidity really going to make a huge difference?


Actually it does, you'll see that as you get more grows under your belt. 58-62% rh is about where you want it for best results.

I dry my bud in controlled humidity at 65% and jar at 65%, and then I bring (cure) different strains down to different humidity levels, where I prefer them
-good luck!


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## reynescabruner (Sep 16, 2018)

Learned a lot from here. Thanks a lot guys!


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## firsttimeARE (Sep 25, 2018)

When you are jarring are the buds sticky?

I dried and the product was sticky on the stems smoked and smelled great so I jarred them with a hygrometer and the next day they read 64% and still smelled great, so I took them out to dry more and put them back. Next day they read 60% but felt dry and lost that stickiness and smell.

If the buds smoke fine that should be a good indicator that they are fully dried?

I feel like my quest for 60% screwed up the smell and texture.


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## macsnax (Sep 25, 2018)

firsttimeARE said:


> When you are jarring are the buds sticky?
> 
> I dried and the product was sticky on the stems smoked and smelled great so I jarred them with a hygrometer and the next day they read 64% and still smelled great, so I took them out to dry more and put them back. Next day they read 60% but felt dry and lost that stickiness and smell.
> 
> ...


Slow is the name of the game below 65%. It will get there, no need to rush it.


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## Beachwalker (Sep 26, 2018)

firsttimeARE said:


> When you are jarring are the buds sticky?
> 
> I dried and the product was sticky on the stems smoked and smelled great so I jarred them with a hygrometer and the next day they read 64% and still smelled great, so I took them out to dry more and put them back. Next day they read 60% but felt dry and lost that stickiness and smell.
> 
> ...


Your taking them out of the jar is what screwed up the smell and texture

Jar them when they're at 65% RH

Open jar every 8 hours for 15 min for 3 days

Next open them every 12 hours for 15 min. for 4 days

Finally open them once a day for 15 minutes going forward until you reach desired humidity (takes 3 weeks or more)

Check rh every few days (or just leave a hygrometer in a jar), cure to 58-62%rh for best results, hope this helps!


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## SCJedi (Oct 30, 2018)

I use Boveda 62% 2-way humidity packs. They work great especially when I cannot get around to trimming everything as fast as I want. I tie one into a plastic bag that has material bucked off the stalks.

Once I have a whole plant trimmed I have been vacuum sealing one Boveda into the bag.


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## pollen205 (Nov 7, 2018)

My indica plant have really really dense nugs so I woring about mold at dry process...
Im thinking about trim to smaller nugs instead whole branch
Is good air flow inside tent prevent mold?

:O


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## MATTYMATT726 (Nov 12, 2018)

I iz do beeeees loving cake.


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## SlappyD (Dec 28, 2018)

Most people say 5 or even 7 days of hang drying is best, but after 3 days my buds are crunchy and stringy and seem like they should go in the jars. It could be that the average RH in my place is between 36-40%, so its possible its drying the outside faster than the inside or stem (which doesn't brake).

I've tried putting tubs of water around the room but with the carpet and it being winter its just not raising the humidity. Should I still wait even though the buds are looking crunchy and assume the moisture thats left in the stems will be enough to bring the buds back? Or put them in jars now and maybe give them more air when I burp them to compensate for the less drying time? 

Thanks


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## 70's natureboy (Dec 28, 2018)

SlappyD said:


> Most people say 5 or even 7 days of hang drying is best, but after 3 days my buds are crunchy and stringy and seem like they should go in the jars. It could be that the average RH in my place is between 36-40%, so its possible its drying the outside faster than the inside or stem (which doesn't brake).
> 
> I've tried putting tubs of water around the room but with the carpet and it being winter its just not raising the humidity. Should I still wait even though the buds are looking crunchy and assume the moisture thats left in the stems will be enough to bring the buds back? Or put them in jars now and maybe give them more air when I burp them to compensate for the less drying time?
> 
> Thanks


If you can't control humidity like this thread recommends, then you better put them in something to keep them from drying to dust. Jar them or put whole branches in totes.


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## macsnax (Dec 28, 2018)

SlappyD said:


> Most people say 5 or even 7 days of hang drying is best, but after 3 days my buds are crunchy and stringy and seem like they should go in the jars. It could be that the average RH in my place is between 36-40%, so its possible its drying the outside faster than the inside or stem (which doesn't brake).
> 
> I've tried putting tubs of water around the room but with the carpet and it being winter its just not raising the humidity. Should I still wait even though the buds are looking crunchy and assume the moisture thats left in the stems will be enough to bring the buds back? Or put them in jars now and maybe give them more air when I burp them to compensate for the less drying time?
> 
> Thanks


Search my posts in this thread, I have a method for curing in a dry climate.


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## Gwen himself (Jan 8, 2019)

I’m using this handy little Bluetooth hygrometer thermometer - SensorPush 

Pretty legit. I pile all my strains into their is. Large jars and pop one in there for an initial reading. 

For the most part I wait for the outer mug to be a little crunchy but still moist. 

I’ll jar them over night and leave the jars open for the day while I’m gone.

From there it’s a case by case inspection ( sensorpush is removed after the first 48 hours and placed back in the other area of my office.

Happy Growing

Gwern


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## Gwen himself (Jan 8, 2019)

Brown bag method works well to after the initial loss of moisture and they’re a bit crunchy on the outside

Happy Curing

Gwern


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## Metatron682 (Feb 2, 2019)

grower215 said:


> Whats the himidipak to bud ratio in a 32oz Mason jar? How many paks to grams are needed?


I believe the Boveda packs have the amount it will work with on the package. I used the 8 gram size for up to an ounce, worked quite well.


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## sixgunshooter (Feb 24, 2019)

I've started using a bowl trimmer. I usually put them in mason jars after they dry some to slow down the cure. I used to hang them upside down until the stems would crack. I notice no difference in quality.


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## Couch_Lock (Feb 24, 2019)

I'm curious how Boveda packs impact scent and terps........

I'd guess there IS an impact, and not a favorable one.


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Feb 24, 2019)

Couch_Lock said:


> I'm curious how Boveda packs impact scent and terps........
> 
> I'd guess there IS an impact, and not a favorable one.


i only use bovedas when it's so close i can hardly tell anyway. more of a maintain at this point thing than a way to get them there to begin with thing


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## LinguaPeel (Mar 12, 2019)

Couch_Lock said:


> I'm curious how Boveda packs impact scent and terps........
> 
> I'd guess there IS an impact, and not a favorable one.


Specifically, it turned an already cured jar of UK Cheese from creamy fruity hash flavor into airy vinegar fumes in one night. Not even sugary pickles, it completely wiped the sweetness out of the bud. Vinegary air. I'll never forget that.


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## macsnax (Mar 12, 2019)

LinguaPeel said:


> Specifically, it turned an already cured jar of UK Cheese from creamy fruity hash flavor into airy vinegar fumes in one night. Not even sugary pickles, it completely wiped the sweetness out of the bud. Vinegary air. I'll never forget that.


Right lol. Do you ever have anything useful to fucking say? Or are you gonna keep running your mouth until you get trolled the fuck out of here? All you do is post shit everyone disagrees with, do you even fucking grow?


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## sacballa (Mar 13, 2019)

macsnax said:


> Right lol. Do you ever have anything useful to fucking say? Or are you gonna keep running your mouth until you get trolled the fuck out of here? All you do is post shit everyone disagrees with, do you even fucking grow?


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## Kattsjungle (Apr 18, 2019)

Beachwalker said:


> Your taking them out of the jar is what screwed up the smell and texture
> 
> Jar them when they're at 65% RH
> 
> ...





SlappyD said:


> Most people say 5 or even 7 days of hang drying is best, but after 3 days my buds are crunchy and stringy and seem like they should go in the jars. It could be that the average RH in my place is between 36-40%, so its possible its drying the outside faster than the inside or stem (which doesn't brake).
> 
> I've tried putting tubs of water around the room but with the carpet and it being winter its just not raising the humidity. Should I still wait even though the buds are looking crunchy and assume the moisture thats left in the stems will be enough to bring the buds back? Or put them in jars now and maybe give them more air when I burp them to compensate for the less drying time?
> 
> Thanks


Just get yourself a cheap humidifier from Walmart and take the struggle out of it. You can even get yourself a good humidifier where you can set the RH%. The good ones are obviously more expensive, but you could always just return it in 2 weeks when you’re done with it


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## letstry (Apr 27, 2019)

This method works I finally got nice smelling home grow. I hang all my buds untrimmed from stems in a small grow tent with an exhaust fan. I only turn the exhaust fan on when humidity in the dry tent rises above 70% (tent is only 2x2x4). I turn the exhaust off when ambient humidity level is reached within the tent (usually around 54%-57%). I repeat this process and after 9-10 days of hanging I notice the humidity inside the tent now doesn't rise as quickly and stabilizes around 65%. 

At this point product especially small leaves are very crispy to the touch but still super sticky and chewy when squeezed, stems bend but don't really snap. I trim everything and take all buds away from stems so everything is fairly equal sized (popcorn nugs separated) and put in jars with cheap hygrometers that seem fairly accurate. (EEEKit 5 pack mini lcd digital humidity meter on amazon)

After 10 days hanging (will try 11-12 next time) and 24 hours in the jar my humidity was reading 68-71 between the 4 mason jars. After 24 hours in the jar I left the lids completely off for 24 hours. After sealing them back up I kept them sealed again for 24 hours just to get more accurate readings they came down a little bit but still not under 65% like I wanted. I kept opening for 2-4 hours a day just trying to get humidity to 65% across the 4 jars after 24 hours sealed. I started noticing a much better smell a few days in when buds would be burped after at least 24 hours sealed and humidity settled under 67%.

My jars now read exactly 62% and 63% and after 48 hours I burped them and the smell was not grassy or hay. Great smell this is the first time I was able to get a proper smell from my own plants. This is also the first time i was able to feed my plants properly ph'd water. Between that and this cure method this has been my best grow yet.

Thank you for all the info


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## Cboat38 (Apr 30, 2019)

SimonD said:


> This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.
> 
> It's a very simple and effective process:
> 
> ...


Shit works but only thing I done different was dry them in a cardboard box for like 5 days until dry on outside and put them in jars and so on with the open for like four hours and for like a week straight and they perfect the smell the taste the smoothness a-1 ohh I didn’t use meters either


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## Keesje (May 2, 2019)

I think it is impossible to determine the "best method". 
The place where you live, the weather conditions of that day, it all has to do with it. 
Burping a jar in a room where the humidity is 30 or burping in a room where the humidity is 70 makes quite a difference. 
Gas exchange and moisture exchange then take place at different levels. 
If you really want to test what the best method is, you should always do this in the same room with the same temperature and the same humidity. Then the only variable is the humidity of the plant when it is harvested.


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## Frank Nitty (May 2, 2019)

Keesje said:


> I think it is impossible to determine the "best method".
> The place where you live, the weather conditions of that day, it all has to do with it.
> Burping a jar in a room where the humidity is 30 or burping in a room where the humidity is 70 makes quite a difference.
> Gas exchange and moisture exchange then take place at different levels.
> If you really want to test what the best method is, you should always do this in the same room with the same temperature and the same humidity. Then the only variable is the humidity of the plant when it is harvested.


Knowledge,wisdom,and understanding...


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## Magic_Mike (May 27, 2019)

Frank Nitty said:


> Knowledge,wisdom,and understanding...


What do you think about using paper sacks for drying/curing purposes?


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## Frank Nitty (May 27, 2019)

Magic_Mike said:


> What do you think about using paper sacks for drying/curing purposes?


That's what i do... It works for me...


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## Magic_Mike (May 27, 2019)

Frank Nitty said:


> That's what i do... It works for me...


Probably gonna start using them, in addition to the mason jars.


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## Frank Nitty (May 27, 2019)

Magic_Mike said:


> Probably gonna start using them, in addition to the mason jars.


That's the way to go...


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## Magic_Mike (May 27, 2019)

Frank Nitty said:


> That's the way to go...


Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. I am wanting to to better at locking in terpenes.


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## sacballa (May 28, 2019)

Magic_Mike said:


> Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. I am wanting to to better at locking in terpenes.


Ya need to really look into this. It gives you the perfect dry every time in 72-96 hours. I mean every time! It retains more terpenes this way. Bud comes out ready to smoke and full of flavor. Ya can smoke straight from the dryer or let a cure however ya like. I don’t even flush anymore because it comes out so smooth. It’s a game changer!!!. I’ve been growing off and on for over 20 years and this guy made something special. Check out the reviews on Instagram everyone loves it just like me. Here’s the link:
https://myherbsnow.com/


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## jungle666 (May 28, 2019)

sacballa said:


> Ya need to really look into this. It gives you the perfect dry every time in 72-96 hours. I mean every time! It retains more terpenes this way. Bud comes out ready to smoke and full of flavor. Ya can smoke straight from the dryer or let a cure however ya like. I don’t even flush anymore because it comes out so smooth. It’s a game changer!!!. I’ve been growing off and on for over 20 years and this guy made something special. Check out the reviews on Instagram everyone loves it just like me. Here’s the link:
> https://myherbsnow.com/


Sounds like a great idea but, you can’t beat the tried and true recipe just like grandmas cooking


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## Keesje (May 28, 2019)

sacballa said:


> Ya need to really look into this. It gives you the perfect dry every time in 72-96 hours. I mean every time! It retains more terpenes this way. Bud comes out ready to smoke and full of flavor. Ya can smoke straight from the dryer or let a cure however ya like. I don’t even flush anymore because it comes out so smooth. It’s a game changer!!!. I’ve been growing off and on for over 20 years and this guy made something special. Check out the reviews on Instagram everyone loves it just like me. Here’s the link:
> https://myherbsnow.com/


What I can't find is how it keeps the humidity on the same level.


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## sacballa (May 31, 2019)

jungle666 said:


> Sounds like a great idea but, you can’t beat the tried and true recipe just like grandmas cooking


You wanna go old school? How bout don’t knock it till ya try it! He’s even run tests and it’s better than hang drying. Retains more THC & terpenes. I’m just trying to let ya in on something special. Freed up my tent now I’m running perpetual 24/7/365 and killing it! Peace


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## Keesje (Jun 1, 2019)

sacballa said:


> You wanna go old school? How bout don’t knock it till ya try it! He’s even run tests and it’s better than hang drying. Retains more THC & terpenes. I’m just trying to let ya in on something special. Freed up my tent now I’m running perpetual 24/7/365 and killing it! Peace


But how does it keep the humidity at the same level?


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## Keesje (Jun 3, 2019)

sacballa said:


> https://myherbsnow.com/


I have a hard time believing that this device will work in all circumstances.
Drying only has to do with temperature for a part. It is mostly about humidity.
Something would dry really fast on the cold North Pole and it will take forever in a hot jungle.
So as long as the device does not control the humidity, their claims are just not true for everybody.
Or there must be something in the device that they kept secret for us.

Perfect drying (for cannabis, cigars, whatever) happens in a good temperature and good humidity.


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## macsnax (Jun 3, 2019)

Keesje said:


> I have a hard time believing that this device will work in all circumstances.
> Drying only has to do with temperature for a part. It is mostly about humidity.
> Something would dry really fast on the cold North Pole and it will take forever in a hot jungle.
> So as long as the device does not control the humidity, their claims are just not true for everybody.
> ...


I've talked to a few people that have used it now. They love it and say they won't dry any other way now. I'm working myself up to buying one and seeing how it does.


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## Keesje (Jun 3, 2019)

macsnax said:


> I've talked to a few people that have used it now. They love it and say they won't dry any other way now. I'm working myself up to buying one and seeing how it does.


I am sure that it will perfect for a lot of people. As long as humidity is within a certain bandwidth.
But if the humidity is outside this range, it will not work well.
Or - as I said before - there is something in the device that regulates the humidity.


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## macsnax (Jun 3, 2019)

Keesje said:


> I am sure that it will perfect for a lot of people. As long as humidity is within a certain bandwidth.


They have a way to add humidity to the unit if you're in a low rh situation.


----------



## Keesje (Jun 3, 2019)

macsnax said:


> They have a way to add humidity to the unit if you're in a low rh situation.


Ok, that explains something. 
Perhaps they found a way to re-circulate the moisture that comes out of the wet weed.
It doesn't mention a reservoir or anything.


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## macsnax (Jun 3, 2019)

Keesje said:


> Ok, that explains something.
> Perhaps they found a way to re-circulate the moisture that comes out of the wet weed.
> It doesn't mention a reservoir or anything.


It looks kinda like a shot glass, you fill it with water and it slows the dry down.


----------



## Keesje (Jun 3, 2019)

macsnax said:


> It looks kinda like a shot glass, you fill it with water and it slows the dry down.


Indeed, I saw it on their website.
But if the glass is the only thing that ads extra moisture...

But for the device to work properly, there must still be something extra in it. Otherwise it will not work in all circumstances, as you are always depending on the RV in your area.
If drying is only about just the right (and controlled) temperature, there are cheaper ways to dry your weed.
Take a look at how amateur beer brewers keep their beer at the right temperature when it is yeasting.

What I also wonder is how the device will perform when it is an enviroment where it is extremely hot already.
Does it have a way to cool as well?
Heating something up is easy to achieve, but for cooling a temperature down, it takes a lot more technique.


----------



## Keesje (Jun 3, 2019)

Does anyone know the temperatures that are in the Herbs Now device?


----------



## macsnax (Jun 3, 2019)

Keesje said:


> Indeed, I saw it on their website.
> But if the glass is the only thing that ads extra moisture...
> 
> But for the device to work properly, there must still be something extra in it. Otherwise it will not work in all circumstances, as you are always depending on the RV in your area.
> ...


Ya idk, probably going to have to get one and see for ourselves. I do know, it's getting really good reviews, gotta be something there.


----------



## macsnax (Jun 3, 2019)

Keesje said:


> Does anyone know the temperatures that are in the Herbs Now device?


I think they state that it runs around 70ish.


----------



## Scottmurphy12 (Jun 22, 2019)

Roger A. Shrubber said:


> the magic number with cannabis is 63%. above 63% and curing continues, once you drop below 63%, it stops, and you cannot restart it.
> i'll hang till it feels and looks right, usually around a week, then cut it off the bigger stems and jar it. the first day or two i may leave it out of the jar more than in, then i slowly start leaving it out for less time, till it gets to about 66%, then i just dump it out and stir it around, let it set for 5 minutes, then it goes back in the jar, and i repeat that till its jjuuussstt above 63%, then it goes into dark storage till i want some of it.


Have you got any sources for enzymes ceasing to break Down sugars below 63%, really interesting and concise information is important instead of the usual pseudoscience that gets banded around


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## sacballa (Jun 24, 2019)

Keesje said:


> Does anyone know the temperatures that are in the Herbs Now device?


Between 35-60rh 60-80 deg. I live in dry California all you need is a cheap humidifier and cheap hydrometer you don’t need it tho. LOL You’re overthinking all this like most stoners do everything smh. It’s a game changer like i said before. I’m done talking to you knuckleheads! LOL


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## smokinokie (Jul 5, 2019)

https://growershouse.com/auto-cure-automated-curing-unit-medium
Has anyone used this or know anything about it?


----------



## sacballa (Jul 5, 2019)

smokinokie said:


> https://growershouse.com/auto-cure-automated-curing-unit-medium
> Has anyone used this or know anything about it?


Here’s a YouTube review click both links


----------



## smokinokie (Jul 7, 2019)

sacballa said:


> Here’s a YouTube review click both links


Thank ya


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## Love2Grow444 (Jul 29, 2019)

[QUOTE="BRSmoker, post: 8116894, member: 

Also, by this logic, a cigar humidor should be ideal for curing and keeping marijuana for long periods of time, right?[/QUOTE]
Most every cigar humidors are lined with Spanish Cedar to help stabilize humidity you may get the flavor imparted onto your buds which may make them not as yummy


----------



## Love2Grow444 (Jul 30, 2019)

smokinokie said:


> Thank ya


First of all, bad ass product the autocure...Second, thanks for the bud porn lol...


----------



## SlappyD (Aug 10, 2019)

Might have dried mine for too long. Got 2 strains, dried both for 7 days (humidity in room they dried in about 50% humidity). Trimmed and jarred them, left them for 24 hours and hygrometers are saying 1 strain's jars are at 60% and the other strain's jars are 55%. The 60% strain looks great but the 55% strain does look a bit crispy on the outside. 

Does it help if I burp the 55% humidity strain once every 48 hours or so vs every 24 hours I was going to do with the 60% humidity strain? 

Temp is 68 degrees, i have them curing in my cold cellar. 

Thanks


----------



## Love2Grow444 (Aug 11, 2019)

SlappyD said:


> Might have dried mine for too long. Got 2 strains, dried both for 7 days (humidity in room they dried in about 50% humidity). Trimmed and jarred them, left them for 24 hours and hygrometers are saying 1 strain's jars are at 60% and the other strain's jars are 55%. The 60% strain looks great but the 55% strain does look a bit crispy on the outside.
> 
> Does it help if I burp the 55% humidity strain once every 48 hours or so vs every 24 hours I was going to do with the 60% humidity strain?
> 
> ...


Don't burp the 55 % humidity jar keep it closed....only burp it if the humidity climbs to over say 60%. You want to dry your buds in 60% humidity. 50% is too low. Dries too fast. Keep your jars around 60% humidity. No lower than 58%.


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## Mr moco (Aug 13, 2019)

Help I have a question I've been in bloom for about 8 weeks but I have to chop.my plants down 4 days early so it will be 4 days shy of 8 weeks how screwed am I.


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## Love2Grow444 (Aug 13, 2019)

Mr moco said:


> Help I have a question I've been in bloom for about 8 weeks but I have to chop.my plants down 4 days early so it will be 4 days shy of 8 weeks how screwed am I.


How many weeks you are in bloom is not a good measurement of maturity and harvest time....post some pics that will help to decide where you are in terms of harvesting...

I'm 12 weeks into flower!!! 


But it was a mystery seed from a bag and obviously a sativa dominant strain as many sativas can take upto 3 months to finish. Then you have to consider if you are trying to grow sleep medicine which would take a bit longer even.


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## Mr moco (Aug 13, 2019)

Mr moco said:


> Help I have a question I've been in bloom for about 8 weeks but I have to chop.my plants down 4 days early so it will be 4 days shy of 8 weeks how screwed am I.


Sorry dont really know how to use site


Love2Grow444 said:


> How many weeks you are in bloom is not a good measurement of maturity and harvest time....post some pics that will help to decide where you are in terms of harvesting...
> 
> I'm 12 weeks into flower!!!
> 
> ...


----------



## Love2Grow444 (Aug 13, 2019)

Mr moco said:


> Sorry dont really know how to use site


Need side views of your buds, need to see all the hairs. However looking pretty frosty and some good red hairs showing.

Also in the future, as you learn, post a new thread. This is kinda hijacking a thread.


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## Dabhead710 (Aug 31, 2019)

SimonD said:


> Don't smoke the bud. I'd suggest making oil or hash with it. Good luck.
> 
> Simon


Don't ever do that if you have mold you throw that shit away unfortunately absolutely nothing to do about it and making hash out of it is only going to increase the mold percentage just like it does with the extracts so please don't ever ever keep moldy weed it's a shame but nothing can be done throw it away


----------



## Dabhead710 (Sep 22, 2019)

Dabhead710 said:


> Don't ever do that if you have mold you throw that shit away unfortunately absolutely nothing to do about it and making hash out of it is only going to increase the mold percentage just like it does with the extracts so please don't ever ever keep moldy weed it's a shame but nothing can be done throw it away


However I have been reading that you can make bubble hash out of moldy bud however I'm going to need to do some more research on that one..But from what I've read water removes the mold from the bud and soaking it in water prior to putting it in the work bag as the mold spores will float to the top and skim them off then put the bud in the bag....But like I said you might want to do some more research prior to doing so on making sure it can be 100% removed...As I am a real medical patient and I absolutely cannot have any sort of thing and poison free aka pesticide and fungicide any acide out there all that poison bs isn't necessary and is more harmful than it is good period.....As I refuse to use any of that garbage on my plants period....And u want prevention on such things then don't be a slow stoned lazy stoner and keep ur grow room clean and sterile like a lab then none of that B's isn't needed it's really not hard either and a lot easier and cheaper than putting that trash on ur plants esp if ur selling to other ppl and even for urself is almost worse....And don't ever ever pick profits over people!!!!!!


----------



## moochtwisted (Oct 3, 2019)

Dendrophilly said:


> what does rh stand for?


----------



## Dendrophilly (Oct 3, 2019)

Relative Humidity

Wiki agrees;
Relative *humidity* (*RH*) is the ratio of the partial pressure of water vapor to the equilibrium vapor pressure of water at a given temperature.


----------



## BrendaAnderson (Oct 14, 2019)

Thanks for sharing this method and I really appreciate that.


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## Ovah (Oct 23, 2019)

"55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure."

So no burping the jars when in this range?


----------



## Mostlyeager (Nov 10, 2019)

mr. green thumb 01 said:


> Experience- It didnt work for me and I feel that is to wet to go into jars I tried a few times not just once. Same problem as obijohn.. Terrible dark discoloration, loss of smell, and little bag appeal. I kinda think the rh in my house is to high for this and they NEVER dry. When I open my jars and 65-70% rh goes in there, they just get wetter. I like to get them nice and dry hanging the whole plant, trim, and then cure. The texture (moisture content) and smell go right where I want it during the cure. It also seems to take less time. Anyone having a large harvest would need a rack of rh meters and I just dont see that being practical. BTW thanks guys for opening this thread hopefully simond can now help some people understand this process better. For me and my drying this is where the cure starts and I quote from Simon *"60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.*" Leave them dry until the stem cracks when you bend it. I think the post is a little colnfusing as it first says start curing before the stem snaps and it is still pliable but then its followed up by curing starts when product is at 60-65% and STEM SNAPS.
> 
> Hopefully I didnt offend anyone from this post. Just trying to learn. Also I hope mature people can overlook previous debates and give good solid information with out the ridiculing.


----------



## SoMe_EfFin_MasS_HoLe (Nov 10, 2019)

> Hopefully I didnt offend anyone from this post. Just trying to learn. Also I hope mature people can overlook previous debates and give good solid information with out the ridiculing.


Now that was the funniest thing I have ever read! If it were just that simple.


----------



## Poeticorb (Nov 20, 2019)

Dabhead710 said:


> Don't ever do that if you have mold you throw that shit away unfortunately absolutely nothing to do about it and making hash out of it is only going to increase the mold percentage just like it does with the extracts so please don't ever ever keep moldy weed it's a shame but nothing can be done throw it away


Have 


Dabhead710 said:


> Don't ever do that if you have mold you throw that shit away unfortunately absolutely nothing to do about it and making hash out of it is only going to increase the mold percentage just like it does with the extracts so please don't ever ever keep moldy weed it's a shame but nothing can be done throw it away


What are your thoughts on water curing to get rid of mold?


----------



## Dabhead710 (Nov 22, 2019)

Poeticorb said:


> Have
> 
> What are your thoughts on water curing to get rid of mold?


I'm still on the fence about it as I've read it can get rid of it and then I've read it does not as well..I haven't done any more reading on it though tbh as I don't have any so atm got a lot more other stuff to read about but I would definitely like to find a answer as well for future and just to know as well is nice to share with others and it be the correct info..


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## ZeeeDoc (Dec 19, 2019)

Exactly my experience too on this method. I gave this method up years ago( only tried a few times) before going back to the snap then jar which works perfectly. And just to add when it snaps, you generally don't need to fook about with the opening and closing the lids. Just try and long out the dry as much as you can and create optimal drying environment is the way to go.


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## LemonFuelPinesol (Dec 19, 2019)

I dry mine for 10 days then trim & place in bags/jars, after a week they smell & taste really dank. A week after that the smell intensifies & taste is super dank


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## Keesje (Dec 19, 2019)

LemonFuelPinesol said:


> I dry mine for 10 days then trim & place in bags/jars, after a week they smell & taste really dank. A week after that the smell intensifies & taste is super dank


What is the temperature and RH where you live?


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## LemonFuelPinesol (Dec 20, 2019)

Keesje said:


> What is the temperature and RH where you live?


 40-55f & rh is less than 30%. Very dry out here


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## DailyBlastin (Dec 20, 2019)

kief doesnt get "lost in the jar", its gets saved there until the jar is empty then it gets rinsed with butane and added to the wax run!


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## Keesje (Dec 20, 2019)

LemonFuelPinesol said:


> 40-55f & rh is less than 30%. Very dry out here


Both are low.
I guess that there are not many people who will have the same circumstances. Guess you are near some dessert or something?


----------



## LemonFuelPinesol (Dec 21, 2019)

Keesje said:


> Both are low.
> I guess that there are not many people who will have the same circumstances. Guess you are near some dessert or something?


That’s why I dry the whole plant with all leaves on. It helps slow down the dry


----------



## Gunfer420 (Dec 27, 2019)

So guys, new grower here. I have one question which I cant find the exact answer to. I just started curing my buds after 4 days of drying and they smell rather decent compared to what my 1st batch smelled in that stage. But my question is regarding one bud that I harvested a bit early as a sample. Did the whole procedure with it and started curing but the hay smell just sticked around even after 2 weeks in a jar. So I took it out, put it in a plastic bag and just squeased it not too hard. When I pulled it put I noticed that hay smell gone and replaced by a nice skunky smell so I just put it back in its own jar and continued curing. Can someone explain to me was that a bad thing or not? Because Ive never read anything about that but much weed where I come from look like its been previously squeased like that, hence the idea. Do people do that and is it a bad thing? Because now that one bud smells way better than my whole batch which I just started curing, its just not that fluffly anymore but kinda compact.
Please dont judge me for my ignorance, im here to learn


----------



## hellmutt bones (Dec 27, 2019)

Gunfer420 said:


> So guys, new grower here. I have one question which I cant find the exact answer to. I just started curing my buds after 4 days of drying and they smell rather decent compared to what my 1st batch smelled in that stage. But my question is regarding one bud that I harvested a bit early as a sample. Did the whole procedure with it and started curing but the hay smell just sticked around even after 2 weeks in a jar. So I took it out, put it in a plastic bag and just squeased it not too hard. When I pulled it put I noticed that hay smell gone and replaced by a nice skunky smell so I just put it back in its own jar and continued curing. Can someone explain to me was that a bad thing or not? Because Ive never read anything about that but much weed where I come from look like its been previously squeased like that, hence the idea. Do people do that and is it a bad thing? Because now that one bud smells way better than my whole batch which I just started curing, its just not that fluffly anymore but kinda compact.
> Please dont judge me for my ignorance, im here to learn


The bud.is left to dry till it actually looks like its been squeezed but in reality you shouldn't squeeze the buds its like ringing out all the tch wichi is what gives it it potency. Just hang for 4-6 days if the stem snaps then jar. It will smell like hay for 3-4 days then the smell comes back. But what ever you do dont squeeze, shake, or be rough with your weed.I was a noob once and I did try to compact the buds maybe cause I was used to brick weed


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## Gunfer420 (Dec 27, 2019)

hellmutt bones said:


> The bud.is left to dry till it actually looks like its been squeezed but in reality you shouldn't squeeze the buds its like ringing out all the tch wichi is what gives it it potency. Just hang for 4-6 days if the stem snaps then jar. It will smell like hay for 3-4 days then the smell comes back. But what ever you do dont squeeze, shake, or be rough with your weed.I was a noob once and I did try to compact the buds maybe cause I was used to brick weed


Thank you man, Ive read quite alot about drying and curing and I know everyone always said be gentle to your buds. Thats why I never intended to do something like that on my original batch but since that one bud was like a ginny pig and it still smelled like hay after about 2 weeks of cure time I just gave it a go and what baffled me was that immediately it started smelling extrodinary, like that squeeze cured it in a second lol. Dont worry I wont do that to the rest of them, it was just a test.  
I know right, brick weed is what we get here, its from Albania and its super cheap. Thats what made me condure that sort of test haha


----------



## MIKE GROEZ (Jan 10, 2020)

fatboyOGOF said:


> i appreciate your thread on this simon. i started doing this method a couple of years ago. the hygrometers help a lot. much better than the old squeeze test.
> 
> i got in the bad habit of drying them too quick, taking about 3 days. i trimed the colas into bite sized buds and with phoenix being hot and dry, it doesn't take long. then i noticed that although the buds smelled great when crushed, the odor when i cracked the ball jars was minimal.
> 
> i'm going back to a nice slow dry this time. i'm just triming the fan leaves and hanging the plant whole. i'm at 53 days in flower now and want to be sure that when i crack open a jar, i get a smile from the smell.


I had the same problem...living here in phoenix my first run of about 2 ounces dried out so fast. About 3 days as well. They got brittle and barely any smell. I did trim it right after harvest. I'm thinking about hanging the whole plant this time for my second run and then doing a dry trim. Read somewhere that the sugar leaves protect the bud from drying out too fast holding more moisture I the nugz.


----------



## MIKE GROEZ (Jan 10, 2020)

grower215 said:


> Whats the himidipak to bud ratio in a 32oz Mason jar? How many paks to grams are needed?


Boveda packs..1 gram boveda pack 62%rh per 3.5grams of flower. It's on their website...they have higher gram packs too. Pretty sure they have a pack that does 28 grams at once though


----------



## Sfrigon 1 (Jan 14, 2020)

LemonFuelPinesol said:


> That’s why I dry the whole plant with all leaves on. It helps slow down the dry


Slower the better ,and I like 60 degrees as well . Jmho


----------



## katoskillzzz (Feb 4, 2020)

I'm really sick of reading all the arguing on this topic, there are too many variables for all of us to attempt to tear each other's heads off with our keyboards. For instance, some people say begin curing when the stem snaps but not bend. Well who's to say the size of the stem, not to mention how strong were the stems to begin with. Until you can break it down to a scientific ruling, or at least more exact then wait for a snap. You shouldn't really look at the next guy and say he is the one who is wrong.


----------



## yosim (Feb 8, 2020)

for anyone that drys the whole plant, I'm assuming you trim after drying? How is that versus wet trimming?


----------



## Hippieryan (Feb 28, 2020)

SimonD said:


> This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.
> 
> It's a very simple and effective process:
> 
> ...


So is there something you can do if the humidity is to low? I know you said you would update on that? I didn’t see it anywhere? I haven’t harvested and cured just yet, 3 weeks away, just wanting to get all my ducks in a row. Also is there a size screen you recommend? What do you put under the screen to collect the kief? Is there something that works better than other? Would a cookie sheet work


----------



## HappyNewbie-Josh (Mar 23, 2020)

I'm at 54% but they've only been in the jar for 8 hours.. So hopefully I will be fine.


----------



## Lpt (Mar 24, 2020)

I followed to a T but the grassy smell is still there bud stinks amazing when broken up for a zoot but just barley smells when not broken open. The rh never when bellow 62% and that's where it sits now in the jar being burped for two weeks... I just don't get it!!!


----------



## Hippieryan (Mar 28, 2020)

SimonD said:


> This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.
> 
> It's a very simple and effective process:
> 
> ...


Simon I obviously botched your simple method, should I have left it on the plants to dry? I cut and hung mine? Will this still work?


----------



## Hippieryan (Apr 4, 2020)

How long should you leave it in the mason jar at the curing humidity? Or did I just miss that somewhere? Also should I open it daily and give it a shake for fresh air and movement?


----------



## MrGreenFingers99 (Apr 4, 2020)

Hippieryan said:


> Simon I obviously botched your simple method, should I have left it on the plants to dry? I cut and hung mine? Will this still work?


Yes you should've hung the whole plant and just removed the big fans and water leaves unless you have low humidity, my last 2 plants took 21 days before they were ready for jars, never lost there smell at all through the whole process and were pretty much cured before I even jarred.


----------



## MrGreenFingers99 (Apr 4, 2020)

Hippieryan said:


> How long should you leave it in the mason jar at the curing humidity? Or did I just miss that somewhere? Also should I open it daily and give it a shake for fresh air and movement?


Yeah you should be opening daily for the 1st couple weeks and then at least once a week for a few weeks, are you using the mini Hygrometer's in the jars to get your RH? I like to get mine down to around 58% personally


----------



## Hippieryan (Apr 4, 2020)

MrGreenFingers99 said:


> Yeah you should be opening daily for the 1st couple weeks and then at least once a week for a few weeks, are you using the mini Hygrometer's in the jars to get your RH? I like to get mine down to around 58% personally


Yes I am I just did it yesterday and it is reading 64% after 24 hours, so should I open it and leave it for like 5 minutes each day to try to get that humidity down


----------



## Hippieryan (Apr 4, 2020)

Hippieryan said:


> Yes I am I just did it yesterday and it is reading 64% after 24 hours, so should I open it and leave it for like 5 minutes each day to try to get that humidity down


So the thumbs up is saying yes? Lol to what I asked


----------



## MrGreenFingers99 (Apr 4, 2020)

Hippieryan said:


> Yes I am I just did it yesterday and it is reading 64% after 24 hours, so should I open it and leave it for like 5 minutes each day to try to get that humidity down


Take it all out of jars and leave it for a few hours to dry some more, you want it to equalise in the jars at 62% or below, at 64% you can get mould, trust me I've ruined a crop leaving them in jars with to much moisture, you will get an ammonia smell and the buds will lose there colour and start going darker/brown.


----------



## Hippieryan (Apr 4, 2020)

MrGreenFingers99 said:


> Take it all out of jars and leave it for a few hours to dry some more, you want it to equalise in the jars at 62% or below, at 64% you can get mould, trust me I've ruined a crop leaving them in jars with to much moisture, you will get an ammonia smell and the buds will lose there colour and start going darker/brown.


Will do, thank you sir, also what is the best room temp to have the jar in? Or did I ask this already, really appreciate the help


----------



## MrGreenFingers99 (Apr 4, 2020)

Hippieryan said:


> Will do, thank you sir, also what is the best room temp to have the jar in? Or did I ask this already, really appreciate the help


You just want to store them in a cool dark place, I leave mine in a kitchen cupboard.


----------



## TreeFarmerCharlie (Apr 4, 2020)

If you are like me, and constantly forget to burp jars, then you can make an automated burning system. I just made one using a bunch of 1/3 gallon jars. The guy in this video drills through the glass but it’s a lot easier just to drill through the cap and run an air hose from the inlet down to the bottom of the jar.


----------



## neal62 (Apr 4, 2020)

TreeFarmerCharlie said:


> If you are like me, and constantly forget to burp jars, then you can make an automated burning system. I just made one using a bunch of 1/3 gallon jars. The guy in this video drills through the glass but it’s a lot easier just to drill through the cap and run an air hose from the inlet down to the bottom of the jar.


I just started using the half gallon mason jars like this i drilled the glass time will tell TreeFarmerCharlie i have gorilla glue in two and girl scout cookies in two and white widow in two 3 oz in each also i have 7 qt jars of girl scout cookies with a oz in each


----------



## Hippieryan (Apr 5, 2020)

MrGreenFingers99 said:


> Take it all out of jars and leave it for a few hours to dry some more, you want it to equalise in the jars at 62% or below, at 64% you can get mould, trust me I've ruined a crop leaving them in jars with to much moisture, you will get an ammonia smell and the buds will lose there colour and start going darker/brown.


I’m running at 61 this morning, I may have to do a switch a rough of the Gaige and I had to cut and jar a second batch yesterday,. I do however have a bundle of RH meters coming in on Monday. Do you think 61 is good or should I try to drop her a hair more mr green fingers?


----------



## Hippieryan (Apr 5, 2020)

TreeFarmerCharlie said:


> If you are like me, and constantly forget to burp jars, then you can make an automated burning system. I just made one using a bunch of 1/3 gallon jars. The guy in this video drills through the glass but it’s a lot easier just to drill through the cap and run an air hose from the inlet down to the bottom of the jar.


Thanks for your post I had everything to do this minus a carbo tip, so I grabbed one of them yesterday, I’m gonna give er a whirl today if I have time. Question though? Even though this burps and puts fresh air in, so you move your week around so it’s not clumping together or am I just overthinking this? Lol


----------



## FastFreddi (Apr 5, 2020)

Hippieryan said:


> Thanks for your post I had everything to do this minus a carbo tip, so I grabbed one of them yesterday, I’m gonna give er a whirl today if I have time. Question though? Even though this burps and puts fresh air in, so you move your week around so it’s not clumping together or am I just overthinking this? Lol


Hello op...just be sure to not stuff the nugs in...leave a little "wiggle room" in the jars...pretty cool idea TreeFarmerCharlie...thanks for sharing.
FF


----------



## Hippieryan (Apr 5, 2020)

FastFreddi said:


> Hello op...just be sure to not stuff the nugs in...leave a little "wiggle room" in the jars...pretty cool idea TreeFarmerCharlie...thanks for sharing.
> FF


I’m gonna work on it in the next few days I will be sure to post my results good or bad, I also have a full mason jar of sweet leaves from trimming, would you suggest just putting these in a zip lock and to the freezer for either cbd or hash at a later date?


----------



## FastFreddi (Apr 5, 2020)

I always dry my trim in a paper bag..once good and dry, into a ziploc freezer bag and into freezer until needed. I make either qwiso or infused coconut oil with mine, so it works either way.
FF


----------



## Just Be (Apr 5, 2020)

FastFreddi said:


> I always dry my trim in a paper bag..once good and dry, into a ziploc freezer bag and into freezer until needed. I make either qwiso or infused coconut oil with mine, so it works either way.
> FF


FF, do you limit how much trim you place into a single paper bag?


----------



## FastFreddi (Apr 5, 2020)

About half full works for me...every few hours give it a little mix up.
FF


----------



## Just Be (Apr 5, 2020)

FastFreddi said:


> About half full works for me...every few hours give it a little mix up.
> FF


Thanks!


----------



## FastFreddi (Apr 5, 2020)

You are very welcome.
FF


----------



## Hippieryan (Apr 5, 2020)

FastFreddi said:


> I always dry my trim in a paper bag..once good and dry, into a ziploc freezer bag and into freezer until needed. I make either qwiso or infused coconut oil with mine, so it works either way.
> FF


Ok so how dry do I want it? Like crumble in your hand dry?


----------



## Shaddowsfall64 (Apr 5, 2020)

thanks !


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## FastFreddi (Apr 5, 2020)

Not dust crumble, just good and dry...and since it goes directly to freezer, it will be fine.
FF


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## TreeFarmerCharlie (Apr 5, 2020)

Hippieryan said:


> Thanks for your post I had everything to do this minus a carbo tip, so I grabbed one of them yesterday, I’m gonna give er a whirl today if I have time. Question though? Even though this burps and puts fresh air in, so you move your week around so it’s not clumping together or am I just overthinking this? Lol


It won’t clump up. Just drop enough in each jar, to fill each one 75%, and don’t push down on it to fit more in. You want each jar to be filled, loosely, at 75% so they air can get to all of it.


----------



## TreeFarmerCharlie (Apr 5, 2020)

FastFreddi said:


> Hello op...just be sure to not stuff the nugs in...leave a little "wiggle room" in the jars...pretty cool idea TreeFarmerCharlie...thanks for sharing.
> FF


You’re welcome. I can’t remember the guy who first thought to do this, but he has a large grow op, and he build a much larger setup that uses food grade 5 gallon buckets with screw on lids. He said he cures something like 2lbs in each bucket, and he gets a perfect cure using this method.


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## FastFreddi (Apr 5, 2020)

Lol when I harvest two pounds I'll try it.
Big when right there....
FF


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## TreeFarmerCharlie (Apr 5, 2020)

I believe this is the guy who came up with the idea...or at least got the info out for people to see. Just look at the amount of buckets he uses for curing...it looks like he cures 20-30 lbs at a time.


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## Hippieryan (Apr 5, 2020)

FastFreddi said:


> Not dust crumble, just good and dry...and since it goes directly to freezer, it will be fine.
> FF


You know it’s a real bitch to find a paper bag around a house now a days


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## FastFreddi (Apr 5, 2020)

Hippieryan said:


> You know it’s a real bitch to find a paper bag around a house now a days


Hahahahahaha...fuck that's great!!!
Fred


----------



## FastFreddi (Apr 5, 2020)

A cardboard box layered with newspaper will work nicely...just ensure good airflow around


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## Just Be (Apr 5, 2020)

Hippieryan said:


> You know it’s a real bitch to find a paper bag around a house now a days


Next time you're at the check out counter at the grocery store, ask the checkout clerk for a couple. Or you can always order lots and lots of take out Chinese food.


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## FastFreddi (Apr 5, 2020)

My wife is thrifty...she loves Value Village( not now obviously, and yes she is Jonesing) so I had a good supply already.
Big box stores, on your next supply run, grab some either yardwork or green bin bags...if you are careful, they last multiple harvests.
FF


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## Hippieryan (Apr 5, 2020)

FastFreddi said:


> A cardboard box layered with newspaper will work nicely...just ensure good airflow around


Ok I m sure I can dig some flyers up, so just lay them flat, how many rows you figure on each side?


----------



## Hippieryan (Apr 5, 2020)

Just Be said:


> Next time you're at the check out counter at the grocery store, ask the checkout clerk for a couple. Or you can always order lots and lots of take out Chinese food.


All the stores here have are plastic, Chinese food is an option though,,


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## FastFreddi (Apr 5, 2020)

I just usually line it with 2-3 layers...
Be mindful of any openings in the box...having it spill onto the floor is upsetting.
FF


----------



## Hippieryan (Apr 5, 2020)

Thanks Freddy ,, my wife found me a bag when she rolled out of bed lol, but now I got a back up plan I guess


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## Rowdy Piper (Apr 24, 2020)

SimonD said:


> This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.
> 
> It's a very simple and effective process:
> 
> ...


Well put, and helpful. I basically ruined four months of my life a cpl months ago. Patience isn’t just a river in Egypt.


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## iriemartin1974 (May 19, 2020)

The whole topic of curing is as much philosophy as its a science. This debate probably was at the beginning of riu.org and will outlive all of us.. If the perfect cure was discovered and this information sold to the public that knowledge would outsell boner pills. Not that I need them.!?! LOL


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## Pedro Pereira (May 20, 2020)

I have this problem that sometimes my buds will not keep the consistency after harvesting... I dry them and then they get a bit mushy or airy... maybe I'm not curing them well or enough?


----------



## Gemtree (May 20, 2020)

Pedro Pereira said:


> I have this problem that sometimes my buds will not keep the consistency after harvesting... I dry them and then they get a bit mushy or airy... maybe I'm not curing them well or enough?


You have to sweat them till they are stable. It draws the moisture out from the middle.


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## Casanova Frankenstein (May 20, 2020)

Just Be said:


> Next time you're at the check out counter at the grocery store, ask the checkout clerk for a couple. Or you can always order lots and lots of take out Chinese food.


Whole Foods , even have the handled ones also.


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## KingQuazy (May 20, 2020)

So nobody like Boveda packs or what lol?


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## Casanova Frankenstein (May 20, 2020)

Integras are better.


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## KingQuazy (May 20, 2020)

Casanova Frankenstein said:


> Integras are better.


Yeah I seen they have the new indicator! Do you mean the actual packs themselves are superior?


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## Casanova Frankenstein (May 20, 2020)

Technology similar ... they both “ push and pull “ moisture. Some say boveda robs smell , I have never experienced that myself. 
But run perpetuals all year so my “ stock “ on hand can be quite large , bovedas are mainly for stabilizing the base Rh within. 
Some growers prefer 58% or so over 62% packs , but they only have that one job to do , stabilize the Rh. 

Integras have a better design ( indicator dot ) to show viability at a glance. Color change indicates if pack is no longer any good. 
I use both but with integras I can see the pack in my jars and now their status.


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## 2Hearts (May 21, 2020)

Wtf how longs a pack last? Thought they woukd be eternal working. 




Casanova Frankenstein said:


> Technology similar ... they both “ push and pull “ moisture. Some say boveda robs smell , I have never experienced that myself.
> But run perpetuals all year so my “ stock “ on hand can be quite large , bovedas are mainly for stabilizing the base Rh within.
> Some growers prefer 58% or so over 62% packs , but they only have that one job to do , stabilize the Rh.
> 
> ...


----------



## TreeFarmerCharlie (May 21, 2020)

2Hearts said:


> Wtf how longs a pack last? Thought they woukd be eternal working.


They pretty much work for years and years but can dry out after they’ve been opened and aren’t kept in a sealed container. They can also be recharged by putting them in a box with a humidifier running for a couple of days.


----------



## KingQuazy (May 21, 2020)

TreeFarmerCharlie said:


> They pretty much work for years and years but can dry out after they’ve been opened and aren’t kept in a sealed container. They can also be recharged by putting them in a box with a humidifier running for a couple of days.


I was under the impression you should only use then 2 or 3 times, if that. But I also only seen them used in professional environments. So idk.


----------



## iriemartin1974 (May 21, 2020)

Pedro Pereira said:


> I have this problem that sometimes my buds will not keep the consistency after harvesting... I dry them and then they get a bit mushy or airy... maybe I'm not curing them well or enough?


To make them look like typical bud place them in a ziplock bag and put a pillow on top of the bag. Slight pressure.. You will lose some tric's though. Not completely dry though.. Its just a way to make the buds look typical.


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## neal62 (May 21, 2020)

KingQuazy said:


> I was under the impression you should only use then 2 or 3 times, if that. But I also only seen them used in professional environments. So idk.


When mine dry up i put them in a bowl of distilled water and let them sit for a day or two works fine.


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## Brickie74 (Jun 14, 2020)

SimonD said:


> This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.
> 
> It's a very simple and effective process:
> 
> ...


Wow....I actually started Curing this way on my own about a year ago. I’m glad to see I’m not an idiot. It actually works much much better than waiting until the stems snap. The problem with the stem snapping method is that all the buds on the stem are not the same size and are not going to dry at the same rate or be dry at the same time. So this method actually works really well.


----------



## potpimp (Jun 20, 2020)

TreeFarmerCharlie said:


> I believe this is the guy who came up with the idea...or at least got the info out for people to see. Just look at the amount of buckets he uses for curing...it looks like he cures 20-30 lbs at a time.


I owe you a steak dinner for this!


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## FireBudzz420 (Jun 21, 2020)

How long should i use the automated curing technique befor storing in plain mason jars? Or should i just auto burp them 2x a day for a month then put in plain jars with the baveda or integra rh packs? Also I'll by drying the whole plant minus the fan leafs thanks.


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## TreeFarmerCharlie (Jun 21, 2020)

I leave mine in the automated system for 2 weeks and then put them in jars with Integra Boost packs for long term storage.


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## FireBudzz420 (Jun 21, 2020)

TreeFarmerCharlie said:


> I leave mine in the automated system for 2 weeks and then put them in jars with Integra Boost packs for long term storage.


Thanks


----------



## KillaKane (Jun 29, 2020)

Nice tips thank you!


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## PioneerValleyOG (Aug 7, 2020)

One very important note I can't stress enough Is to always KEEP YOUR BUDS IN DARKNESS!! Light is the killer that takes the green away and turns buds brown and ooogie. I use the packets for long term storage, big ball jars, and a slow cure process in my basement, NEVER the attic, maybe for a couple days towards the end, but always use these guys
I have like six of them, and they can be a very useful tool for the curing process. I also like the paper bags, another hint is an ammonia smell means your process is not finished properly. As I am no professional curer, I just can't afford the toys, I cure as I grow, as simply as possible. Somehow, it all comes together. Maybe I'll actually document my process this year, lol, I am doing a grow journal this year so why not? Luck to all!!!


----------



## mattman089 (Aug 12, 2020)

PioneerValleyOG said:


> One very important note I can't stress enough Is to always KEEP YOUR BUDS IN DARKNESS!! Light is the killer that takes the green away and turns buds brown and ooogie. I use the packets for long term storage, big ball jars, and a slow cure process in my basement, NEVER the attic, maybe for a couple days towards the end, but always use these guysView attachment 4647077
> I have like six of them, and they can be a very useful tool for the curing process. I also like the paper bags, another hint is an ammonia smell means your process is not finished properly. As I am no professional curer, I just can't afford the toys, I cure as I grow, as simply as possible. Somehow, it all comes together. Maybe I'll actually document my process this year, lol, I am doing a grow journal this year so why not? Luck to all!!!


These work great too.. Very small and a 2 pack os only $5. I bought several of them lol.







Amazon.com: Mini Hygrometer Thermometer 2PCS Mini Digital Humidity Gauge, AikTryee Hygrometer Indoor Humidity Monitor, Temperature Humidity Gauge Meter for Humidors, Greenhouse, Garden, Cellar, Closet, Etc: Industrial & Scientific


Amazon.com: Mini Hygrometer Thermometer 2PCS Mini Digital Humidity Gauge, AikTryee Hygrometer Indoor Humidity Monitor, Temperature Humidity Gauge Meter for Humidors, Greenhouse, Garden, Cellar, Closet, Etc: Industrial & Scientific



www.amazon.com


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## 2com (Aug 13, 2020)

Guys, you can get wireless, mini hygrometers from several brands now that will allow you to monitor rh and/or temp from a device without having to open and check the jar/bucket/etc.
Boveda, Sensor push, Inkbird, Govee (I think?). Then there are humidor ones (non wifi), digital ones too. Or you could mod a bucket/container with an actual hygrostat/controller, make it "burp" for you.


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## SmittyB.. (Aug 13, 2020)

2com said:


> Guys, you can get wireless, mini hygrometers from several brands now that will allow you to monitor rh and/or temp from a device without having to open and check the jar/bucket/etc.
> Boveda, Sensor push, Inkbird, Govee (I think?). Then there are humidor ones (non wifi), digital ones too. Or you could mod a bucket/container with an actual hygrostat/controller, make it "burp" for you.


Do you currently use these or have a modded bucket?


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## 2com (Aug 13, 2020)

The guy linked above (derrick gilman) who did the auto burp buckets runs his based on a timer. All you'd have to do is replace the timer with, say, an inkbird rh controller. You could only put the sensor in one of the buckets or containers though (no worse than just going off timer/once per day though?). Cut the sensor cable, run it through a grommet/cable gland, splice back together.. or similar way.

I don't. I have all the parts and stuff, but I haven't bothered yet as I'm still learning and trying to do get the feel for what needs doing before I try and automate it (other than controlling environment).

There's a video on youtube where someone uses an axial fan in a bucket for the burping but I can't remember if he uses rh control or timer.


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## SmittyB.. (Aug 13, 2020)

Yea I seen his vid. I’ve seen one other YouTuber do the same. May venture down that road one day. Just wondering on others experiences.


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## 2com (Aug 13, 2020)

SmittyB.. said:


> Yea I seen his vid. I’ve seen one other YouTuber do the same. May venture down that road one day. Just wondering on others experiences.


I'll tell ya something else I'm considering is what the diy meat curing hobby guys do, and re-purpose a fridge into a curing chamber. Kinda limited space though.
Maybe build a box using rigid insulation. They make ac units for campers that sit outside and duct (and out, cycle) in the cold air. Or one could modify a different unit to duct it in. It's a challenge.


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## waterproof808 (Aug 13, 2020)

2com said:


> I'll tell ya something else I'm considering is what the diy meat curing hobby guys do, and re-purpose a fridge into a curing chamber. Kinda limited space though.
> Maybe build a box using rigid insulation. They make ac units for campers that sit outside and duct (and out, cycle) in the cold air. Or one could modify a different unit to duct it in. It's a challenge.


They sell something called a "curidor." Its basically a repurposed wine cooler.


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## Edie (Aug 30, 2020)

SimonD said:


> Don't smoke the bud. I'd suggest making oil or hash with it. Good luck.
> 
> Simon


So can you make hash or oil out of like nutrient burn leaves or bud rot buds?


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## Edie (Aug 30, 2020)

Trousers said:


> Jar 1 of 6 just spent the night at 58%. Ready to smoke!
> The rest are at about 62%-65%.
> 
> Another perfect cure.
> ...


I got some too but they read different RH%?
from 55% to 63%


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## BobCajun (Aug 31, 2020)

I don't believe you need to burp anything. What would the purpose be? Only reason you would keep letting room air in is if it's still too moist and you want to dry it more, if the room air is the right RH. While it's closed the moisture would equalize through the material and also the air in the container, so if you wanted the material to get drier you would need to open it and let drier air in and close it to let it equalize again. But if you had already dries it to 62% there would be no purpose in opening and closing the container.

The guy in that video about the plastic buckets said he dried his plants in a 62% RH room before he put it in the buckets, so why was he pumping air in the buckets and letting it out? Logically, all that would do is expose the material to more oxygen, which would degrade it. Obviously no "curing" was taking place because the RH was too low at 62%. What he was doing was letting the terps permeate through the material because the vapor is contained in the closed buckets, so you would smell it more. Aside from that it's just "aging" not curing, and aging does not require air exchange, in fact you want to avoid it by keeping the container sealed and preferably under a vacuum.

That guy did all that stuff with the hoses and the pump for no good reason whatsoever, just because people have been known to burp jars because their weed was too wet so he assumed it had something to do with curing, which it doesn't. He could have just left the weed in the closed buckets with a 62% Boveda and not bothered with the hoses. Then after apparently 3 weeks, from what he said, the terps will have permeated the material. In fact, you could sit a small container on top of the weed with some terpenes on paper towel or whatever and it would permeate the material giving it whatever aroma he wanted. You want some orange smelling and tasting weed, you would use orange essential oil. You want it to smell like pine, you would use turpentine. Actually that gives me an idea. I have a little bottle of peppermint oil, I think I'll make me some peppermint weed.


----------



## Bagginski (Sep 5, 2020)

SimonD said:


> Not much to add to Hiker's comments. Good post. Above are a couple of pics showing the kief that just fell out of the bud. That's right, it fell out. You can see by its color that we're essentially dealing with first sift quality.
> 
> Simon


A few thoughts on the de-kiffing rationale (Simon, please correct if I go astray)

A variable amount of trichomes will be shed easily by the buds, no matter what.
They will stick to the stems, they will stick to other vegetative bits, they will stick to the jar, they will stick to the hygrometer...and they’ll fall off *every* time you remove your buds to air them out. Trichome collection is how hash is made, so the question is ‘do you care enough to try and keep these tasty bits, or not? If you don’t, they will fall anyway, get bumped off, get lost, get smeared onto things, become a (relatively) sticky mess...or you can make a minimal effort up from to keep them from getting lost, getting wasted, makIng a sticky mess.

if you’ve gone to all the time and effort and attention to get to the curing stage, it just makes sense to collect as much of it as you (easily) can, up front; *how* exactly isn’t even an issue, but by collecting on the front end, you end of with more good stuff and less waste. After all, you’ll be emptying the jar fairly often - that waste can add up...and you might decide on your own that you should have been gathering it, not leaving it on the table. Every time you handle them during the dry/cure process, you’ll be potentially wasting good stuff; collect up-front, waste less, be happy.

Pretty straightforward and simple, really. HOW you do it is, well, a personal decision...but it’s not complicated.


----------



## Warfrat (Sep 10, 2020)

YoungBezzle said:


> Simon Wattz Up Bruh I Was Wondering If You Are Anybody In This Thread Has Ever Heard Of Or Used The Boveda 62% Humidipaks? I've Recently Purchased Some Along With Some Cvault Containers And Have Yet To Use Them But I Pretty Sure They Are Gonna Do The Trick! They Were Featured in HighTimes And Every Review I've Read From Growers Who Use Them Were Positive. All You Gotta Do Is Dry Your Buds Until Your Stems Almost Snap, Drop Your Buds In The Jar Along With Your Boveda Humidipak And  BOOM! You're Done! No Burping, No Opening Your Jars! The trick is to leave the proper moisture content in the bud, in relation to it&#8217;s particular density. Relative humidity, and air temperature when jarring will play a role as well. Leaving just enough water and air to allow the "Beneficial" bacteria to feed on the chlorophyll And Starch, but not enough to proliferate throughout the jar. When they run out of air, they die. So opening the jar is counterproductive to curing. The Humidipaks Will Lower Or Raise The Rh To 62%. I Think These Paks Are A Must Have For Beginners And A Nice Addition To The Experienced Growers Arsenal Of "Pot Growing Gadgets"! kiss-ass


I just ordered some of those


----------



## MrR. (Nov 21, 2020)

Great read cheers!


----------



## high acutance (Dec 12, 2020)

BRSmoker said:


> More info on the boveda: http://bovedainc.com/solutions/herbal/
> 
> Also, by this logic, a cigar humidor should be ideal for curing and keeping marijuana for long periods of time, right?


Yes, although cigars seem to do well with a slightly higher RH. High 60s for cigars, low 60s for cannabis.


----------



## DrBuzzFarmer (Dec 30, 2020)

Every grower struggles with the perfect cure.
Advice for large scale growers is different than what the process will be for home growers and medical patients growing only for themselves.
I've come to the same conclusions as the OP, but I have ideas about why it works so well for me.
Laziness ruins people's cure, or doing too much at one time.
If you want the perfect cure, which will preserve your carefully crafted Cannabis for months while still getting better and more refined, you cannot give up the last couple weeks of the process.
I've tried all sorts of methods, used all sorts of equipment, but for the buds I keep for myself it's a slow process of stabilizing ph in the plant material, then bleeding off the excess bit by bit over a few weeks. Nothing has proven as useful and as accurate as Mason jars, IMO. They come in several sizes and they are ...... airtight. So many bins, boxes, and jars are not as airtight as they advertise.

The burping process is the skill most people need to acquire.
The longer the process takes, the better the final product. (genetics being the limiting factor)
I was lazy. I let herb get too dry, I let it get too moist. In each case the cure was not up to par at the end. Either it would begin to dry out after a while, or it would slump and lost its taste and flavor.
I am of the opinion that there is no convenient and easy replacement for checking the jars as frequently as they require, to keep the plant material perfectly in the "safe" zone.
You cannot simply decide "I will check them every 6 hours!" and think everything will be just fine.
Practice will inform you when to move from dry to cure, and how frequently to check a jar.
The goal is to maintain the proper ph levels at all time.
When the target ph is reached and seems stabilized, THEN is the time for humidity packs, to maintain over the long term. I prefer to target about 58% or so. the 62% are too wet, and the 55% Integra are too dry. Either seems to make the herb want to powder after a period. Keep it around 58% and it stays pliable and fresh for the long term, has been my experience. This could be because of my ambient humidity due to locality, and is meant as example.
The OP is spot on. It was a gem dropped at your feet.
Take the time, pay attention, devote the time, and serve up your friends some 12 month cure that smokes so smooth they get their feelings hurt when you won't sell them any.
The Devil is in the details.
This is just my personal opinion, and is meant as agreement with the OP only.


----------



## colocowboy (Jan 2, 2021)

BobCajun said:


> I don't believe you need to burp anything. What would the purpose be? Only reason you would keep letting room air in is if it's still too moist and you want to dry it more, if the room air is the right RH. While it's closed the moisture would equalize through the material and also the air in the container, so if you wanted the material to get drier you would need to open it and let drier air in and close it to let it equalize again. But if you had already dries it to 62% there would be no purpose in opening and closing the container.
> 
> The guy in that video about the plastic buckets said he dried his plants in a 62% RH room before he put it in the buckets, so why was he pumping air in the buckets and letting it out? Logically, all that would do is expose the material to more oxygen, which would degrade it. Obviously no "curing" was taking place because the RH was too low at 62%. What he was doing was letting the terps permeate through the material because the vapor is contained in the closed buckets, so you would smell it more. Aside from that it's just "aging" not curing, and aging does not require air exchange, in fact you want to avoid it by keeping the container sealed and preferably under a vacuum.
> 
> That guy did all that stuff with the hoses and the pump for no good reason whatsoever, just because people have been known to burp jars because their weed was too wet so he assumed it had something to do with curing, which it doesn't. He could have just left the weed in the closed buckets with a 62% Boveda and not bothered with the hoses. Then after apparently 3 weeks, from what he said, the terps will have permeated the material. In fact, you could sit a small container on top of the weed with some terpenes on paper towel or whatever and it would permeate the material giving it whatever aroma he wanted. You want some orange smelling and tasting weed, you would use orange essential oil. You want it to smell like pine, you would use turpentine. Actually that gives me an idea. I have a little bottle of peppermint oil, I think I'll make me some peppermint weed.


It has to do with ethylene production, posthumous most organic material produces ethylene on death to hasten decomposition, curing is controlled ethylene exposure. If you don’t burp the jars it will over-ripen and turn brown with completely degraded trichomes. 
In kind, when you over-dry you can introduce fresh cut flowers that can raise humidity and provide ethylene gas to that group of flowers, essentially allowing for a cure to take place. Provided that some more fresh flower is available.


----------



## MICHI-CAN (Jan 2, 2021)

colocowboy said:


> It has to do with ethylene production, posthumous most organic material produces ethylene on death to hasten decomposition, curing is controlled ethylene exposure. If you don’t burp the jars it will over-ripen and turn brown with completely degraded trichomes.
> In kind, when you over-dry you can introduce fresh cut flowers that can raise humidity and provide ethylene gas to that group of flowers, essentially allowing for a cure to take place. Provided that some more fresh flower is available.


Like the man said. Throw a banana in a ziplock and place it on the counter next one that is in open air. Point proven.

It is this decomposition we are trying to harvest and cease at the perfect time after nature converts the materials to our desire. No control and we are smoking stale cardboard.

My last batch in cure since late Oct early Nov. Not ready. Only hand out to those that can finish it properly. Over a year and my faux GG is getting impressive.


----------



## colocowboy (Jan 2, 2021)

MICHI-CAN said:


> Like the man said. Throw a banana in a ziplock and place it on the counter next one that is in open air. Point proven.
> 
> It is this decomposition we are trying to harvest and cease at the perfect time after nature converts the materials to our desire. No control and we are smoking stale cardboard.
> 
> My last batch in cure since late Oct early Nov. Not ready. Only hand out to those that can finish it properly. Over a year and my faux GG is getting impressive.


My faux gg is like that too, it likes a long cure.


----------



## MICHI-CAN (Jan 2, 2021)

colocowboy said:


> My faux gg is like that too, it likes a long cure.


Sorry I retired mine. Hoping for that stray seed I've been fretting about. Flavor and smoothness better every couple weeks. FIRE compared to all but the N.L. . Dry and smoke strain there. But sooooo much more in a month or so. 

A perfect cure is only going to be to your opinion. As it is your palate. In my opinion...If it ain't cured it is still not 100%. 

Peace and enjoy your work.


----------



## SisterMooo (Jan 3, 2021)

I just started curing some Grease Monkey. After Harvest, I hung in dark cook closet. temps didn't get over 68 F..... so it was like 62 to 68 F max.
The color of the bud is very nice and green. Others that I dried were in the summer, it was much warmer... bud color got darker.... 
this will be interesting. Being in the North East it is winter now. we don't keep the house too warm. 
I have recently heard that a cool curing process helps with potency ... ?????


----------



## MICHI-CAN (Jan 3, 2021)

SisterMooo said:


> I just started curing some Grease Monkey. After Harvest, I hung in dark cook closet. temps didn't get over 68 F..... so it was like 62 to 68 F max.
> The color of the bud is very nice and green. Others that I dried were in the summer, it was much warmer... bud color got darker....
> this will be interesting. Being in the North East it is winter now. we don't keep the house too warm.
> I have recently heard that a cool curing process helps with potency ... ?????


I'd be happy for those temps. Hate harvesting and drying in the summer in the Northern midwest. The lower temps slow the breakdown to a manageable rate. Hence, generally, a smoother and tastier result. Microwave as opposed to oven baked pizza thing. But hang in there. Even a harsh crunchy home grown bud is better than anything commercial. It is a product of love. Not greed. And I stand behind that. 

Best wishes.


----------



## MICHI-CAN (Jan 3, 2021)

MICHI-CAN said:


> I'd be happy for those temps. Hate harvesting and drying in the summer in the Northern midwest. The lower temps slow the breakdown to a manageable rate. Hence, generally, a smoother and tastier result. Microwave as opposed to oven baked pizza thing. But hang in there. Even a harsh crunchy home grown bud is better than anything commercial. It is a product of love. Not greed. And I stand behind that.
> 
> Best wishes.


Long slow flower, health and genetics determine the end potency. The only real effect of drying and curing for me have been head loss and reduced potency due to rough handling.


----------



## Medskunk (Jan 3, 2021)

DrBuzzFarmer said:


> Every grower struggles with the perfect cure.
> Advice for large scale growers is different than what the process will be for home growers and medical patients growing only for themselves.
> I've come to the same conclusions as the OP, but I have ideas about why it works so well for me.
> Laziness ruins people's cure, or doing too much at one time.
> ...


You speak wisely! 

I had some sativa pheno lsd buds in the jar which lasted for about a year.. the RH was 63% after two months from cut and after 11 months it was still 60%. No packs or anything. Just open the jar pick the bud within a few secs and close it store it somewhere dark, with the temperature being as steady as possible. Deep in a cupboard is where i keep it.

I prefer it at 58% like you said, it is just right. But if you dont smoke a lot or have a large stash anyway, if you try to maintain above 60% it makes sure its gonna be a proper smoke even after more than 10 months it ll only drop 2-3 degrees with sensible duration when opening the jar


----------



## MR. GiggleShitz (Jan 8, 2021)

I pull the plants and just take off the big feeder leafs. Hang dark with all the sugar leaves on. 3 weeks latter at @60RH and 65deg. They are done.
I remove and separate bud from sugar leafs by hand( so much easier than trimming). I put them into jars in the cabinet only bringing them out to burp for 3 to 5 days( jars are only opened mabey 5 to 10mins at a time then lids back on.. 
They stay in the jars dark for 4 to 6 weeks.
I can't say it's better than other methods but it never smells of fresh cut lawn grass or hay.
Just beautiful sweet candy that's smoother than a carnival con-artist....
( I'm a big fan of 3 week flush before starting the trim party)...


----------



## Goomonster420 (Jan 9, 2021)

SimonD said:


> This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.
> 
> It's a very simple and effective process:
> 
> ...


----------



## Goomonster420 (Jan 9, 2021)

SimonD said:


> This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.
> 
> It's a very simple and effective process:
> 
> ...


I could really use some great quality something that sells itself


----------



## Ovah (Jan 18, 2021)

I'm a bit confused after reading this thread.
Am I suppose the burp the jars or not when the right % is reached?
For example if the hygrometers shows 60% in the jars, should I just keep it closed and that good weed smell will come automatically even If I never burp the jar?


----------



## ChrispyCritter (Feb 7, 2021)

Ovah said:


> I'm a bit confused after reading this thread.
> Am I suppose the burp the jars or not when the right % is reached?
> For example if the hygrometers shows 60% in the jars, should I just keep it closed and that good weed smell will come automatically even If I never burp the jar?


Yes once you are in the cure range of 58-65 with ideal of 62 then you can leave them sealed to cure. Keep checking your hydrometer to make was sure the buds truly are in that range and Let them go.


----------



## Tht_Blk_Guy27 (Feb 8, 2021)

Hiker said:


> Now that you explain it, I think I've seen others reference that before.
> 
> I'm sorry I missed that. Sounds like a wonderful resource. I took a 'little' 14 year hiatus from growing. All we had back then was the "handbook" and each other to talk to. Luckily, there was a pretty good scene going on in San Diego at the time, so I knew a lot of talented growers. Within my circle, I was 'the electrical guy', so I got to help setup a LOT of cool grow rooms. I'm dealing with a little bit of information overload with all these websites that are around now! I'm grateful they are here though. I've found I forgot far more then I remember. I'm so glad there is a way to share information now since otherwise I wouldn't have anyone to ask questions.


are you from the 619????


----------



## PinkFlight (Feb 9, 2021)

Ignorance is bliss. I still use the squeeze test and use silica packets in each jar, and burp the jars daily. I usually just make weed oil for injestion due to COPD. 

Wondering also if a dehydrator at lowest temp works?


----------



## EhCndGrower (Feb 16, 2021)

PinkFlight said:


> Ignorance is bliss. I still use the squeeze test and use silica packets in each jar, and burp the jars daily. I usually just make weed oil for injestion due to COPD.
> 
> Wondering also if a dehydrator at lowest temp works?


you would be wiser and invest a little money in a freeze dryer instead. Dry and cure you weed in like 17hrs. I have yet to try on mine, but amazing for live rosin. Buds don’t lose their shape and colour and yet it is super clean and tasty. Love my medium size Harvest Right. Pics from my Barney’s Farm LSD harvest, which I now know should of gone another week longer

*Going in Wet*

*Coming out Dried
*


----------



## PinkFlight (Mar 3, 2021)

Really nice pix...thank you. I like your scope.


----------



## EhCndGrower (Mar 3, 2021)

For the $45Cnd I bought it for off amazon.ca I am happy with the digital scope. Connects easily to my phone for the pics but need a steady hand or the stand that comes with the scope.


----------



## ZeeeDoc (Apr 10, 2021)

mr. green thumb 01 said:


> Experience- It didnt work for me and I feel that is to wet to go into jars I tried a few times not just once. Same problem as obijohn.. Terrible dark discoloration, loss of smell, and little bag appeal. I kinda think the rh in my house is to high for this and they NEVER dry. When I open my jars and 65-70% rh goes in there, they just get wetter. I like to get them nice and dry hanging the whole plant, trim, and then cure. The texture (moisture content) and smell go right where I want it during the cure. It also seems to take less time. Anyone having a large harvest would need a rack of rh meters and I just dont see that being practical. BTW thanks guys for opening this thread hopefully simond can now help some people understand this process better. For me and my drying this is where the cure starts and I quote from Simon *"60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.*" Leave them dry until the stem cracks when you bend it. I think the post is a little confusing as it first says start curing before the stem snaps and it is still pliable but then its followed up by curing starts when product is at 60-65% and STEM SNAPS.
> 
> Hopefully I didnt offend anyone from this post. Just trying to learn. Also I hope mature people can overlook previous debates and give good solid information with out the ridiculing.


It’s also my experience too. Hanging the whole plant to dry which takes roughly 10 days the small stems snap, i trim then into jars and the buds are dry sticky, stinking and in the cure zone, burp once every couple of weeks. Too much faffing about putting buds in jar when there too moist. I do agree hygrometer s help so people know where there at but after countless grows should be able to sense the feel of the bud whether it’s dry enough.


----------



## MICHI-CAN (Apr 11, 2021)

ZeeeDoc said:


> It’s also my experience too. Hanging the whole plant to dry which takes roughly 10 days the small stems snap, i trim then into jars and the buds are dry sticky, stinking and in the cure zone, burp once every couple of weeks. Too much faffing about putting buds in jar when there too moist. I do agree hygrometer s help so people know where there at but after countless grows should be able to sense the feel of the bud whether it’s dry enough.


It is a feel thing. And sound. Easy enough to learn. Stems must snap sharply. Not crack and bend. Buds are safe to jar then. And few pinches to be sure always goog. Also, do not jar a whole branch at once. Only the smaller dry stuff. This where most go astray. Jar as every size dries. Not en mass. And I wouldn't be able to get my cure without a hygrometer. LOL.


----------



## Brickie74 (Apr 11, 2021)

This is the way I’ve been curing my harvest for the last four years. I’ve read many, many articles and I have tried many different ways to cure product. This seems to be the best way to do it. Haven’t had any problems with mold or any other of the most common issues when curing with this method.


----------



## CapnBligh (Apr 21, 2021)

Any of you fine folks use fido jars for curing? I like these better than mason jars.


----------



## SlothKing (Apr 23, 2021)

SimonD said:


> Heh, it's as if folks would rater argue than grow lots of bud. When I started out, I identified a number of growers I wanted to learn from, shut my mouth and listened for a hell of a long time, while putting in the hours in my own garden. Here, the less experience you have, the louder you are. No thanks.
> 
> Simon


Thank you


----------



## Frank Nitty (Apr 23, 2021)

Is there a benefit to leaving your plants in the dark when all the leaves are yellow???


----------



## elfo777 (May 11, 2021)

If buds are at 62% when you jar them, do you still have to burp the jars? Or just leave it as it is?


----------



## SisterMooo (May 12, 2021)

elfo777 said:


> If buds are at 62% when you jar them, do you still have to burp the jars? Or just leave it as it is?


I still burp and shake


----------



## Metle (Jun 2, 2021)

My process has been simple and always with good results. I let them hang for about a week RH 60ish temp 65-70, cut and trim, throw in a mason jar and burp a few times per day for first 2 weeks. If RH gets too high I use a digital 5 gallon dehumidifier.


----------



## Boreal Curing (Jun 4, 2021)

The last time I manually burped a jar was about 20 years ago. My only problem with burping Masson jars is the bud gets stuck in the jars, and my hands don't fit so I have to use a spoon or something to get the bud out. On top of that, I need to stay at home and burp a hundred or so jars every night. On top of that, I've fallen asleep and forgot to close the jars. I even forgot to open the frigging things for a couple days.

My first automated burping system was a small cooler with a simple fan. Then I added a timer, then, then, then.... to make a long story short, it took a long time to get it right. I even had to ditch the apparently "pure silicon" aquarium air lines because no matter which ones I tried, they _all _off gas. You can smell the plasticizers. One of my clients (a doctor) told me to use medical grade silicon. Eureka. So everything is FDA/HC medical grade now. It's expensive, but not as much as losing a crop to mold or a foreign flavor taste. Besides, I love being able to split for a weekend without worrying.


----------



## MICHI-CAN (Jun 4, 2021)

Boreal Curing said:


> The last time I manually burped a jar was about 20 years ago. My only problem with burping Masson jars is the bud gets stuck in the jars, my hands don't fit so I have to use a spoon or something to get the bud out. On top of that, I need to stay at home and burp a hundred or so jars every night. On top of that, I've fallen asleep and forgot to close the jars. I even forgot to open the frigging things for a couple days.
> 
> My first automated burping system was a small cooler with a simple fan. Then I added a timer, then, then, then.... to make a long story short, it took a long time to get it right. I even had to ditch the apparently "pure silicon" aquarium air lines because no matter which ones I tried, they _all _off gas. You can smell the plasticizers. One of my clients (a doctor) told me to use medical grade silicon. Eureka. So everything is FDA/HC medical grade now. It's expensive, but not as much as losing a crop to mold. Besides, I love being able to split for a weekend without worrying.


You are aware that a simple $0.35 fish tank one way in line check vale inserted through the lid of a mason jar eliminates opening. And one in each direction will allow air exchange. I do less than a 100 jars at a time. But not much. 

Love the passion. Fail to understand the added the added cost. Good for noobs though. Best wishes on your success and quality of life. 

Peace.


----------



## Boreal Curing (Jun 4, 2021)

MICHI-CAN said:


> You are aware that a simple $0.35 fish tank one way in line check vale inserted through the lid of a mason jar eliminates opening. And one in each direction will allow air exchange. I do less than a 100 jars at a time. But not much.
> 
> Love the passion. Fail to understand the added the added cost. Good for noobs though. Best wishes on your success and quality of life.
> 
> Peace.


Like this?

But there's a bit more to it. You need fitted grommets for the line and check valve, the pump size and airline perforations have to be the proper size for the vessel other wise you get mold, dried bud, or blown lines. But I know what you mean.

Here's a little test. Perforate a foot of new airline, put it in your jar and seal it. Open it the next day and have a smell. If the chemicals don't bother you, then it's not an issue. If they do and it's all you have,I suggest you cut your lines, perforate them, hook them up to your pump and let it run for a few weeks. I've managed to get rid of the smell, but I don't know if the off gassing continues after that.

Edit: The check valves stop the air exchange unless the jar is pressurized to at least 1.9 psi. You need a minimum 2.5x air change rate (in small vessels, and more in larger ones) to properly burp the jars so a pump is needed. Hi end systems use nickle co2 check valves because of the higher air pressures.


----------



## MICHI-CAN (Jun 4, 2021)

Boreal Curing said:


> Like this?
> View attachment 4916165View attachment 4916166
> But there's a bit more to it. You need fitted grommets for the line and check valve, the pump size and airline perforations have to be the proper size for the vessel other wise you get mold, dried bud, or blown lines. But I know what you mean.
> 
> Here's a little test. Perforate a foot of new airline, put it in your jar and seal it. Open it the next day and have a smell. If the chemicals don't bother you, then it's not an issue. If they do and it's all you have,I suggest you cut your lines, perforate them, hook them up to your pump and let it run for a few weeks. I've managed to get rid of the smell, but I don't know if the off gassing continues after that.


Nope not here. The inlet would only be the valve. And proper drill bit allows for press fit. Who puts chemical releasing items in their jars? Not challenging you besides to see the issues many will have with your idea. You can't progress with out scrutiny and varied impressions. 

Honestly not a fight. A point of view is all. Apologies if I ruffled your feathers. Poorly worded FYI on my behalf.


----------



## Boreal Curing (Jun 4, 2021)

MICHI-CAN said:


> Nope not here. The inlet would only be the valve. And proper drill bit allows for press fit. Who puts chemical releasing items in their jars? Not challenging you besides to see the issues many will have with your idea. You can't progress with out scrutiny and varied impressions.
> 
> Honestly not a fight. A point of view is all. Apologies if I ruffled your feathers. Poorly worded FYI on my behalf.


No problem and no offense taken. I don't view it as a fight at all. Just a clarification.

No one puts chemicals in their jars, but unless they're medical grade, normal aquarium airlines/tubing _will_ off-gas and release a chemical smell. As for using a drill? Nothing wrong with it. We use a mechanical punch for a clean hole otherwise the grommet won't seat properly. Our aim if for zero air exchange and that's the only way to make sure.


----------



## MICHI-CAN (Jun 4, 2021)

Boreal Curing said:


> No problem and no offense taken. I don't view it as a fight at all. Just a clarification.
> 
> No one puts chemicals in their jars, but unless they're medical grade, normal aquarium airlines/tubing _will_ off-gas and release a chemical smell.


A bit beyond advanced on both fronts. LOL. And just rattling your cage hoping for further thought on your behalf. I wish I had a kit when I started. Hard lessons for few seasons. 

Again peace and props for your proper response and demeanor.


----------



## Boreal Curing (Jun 4, 2021)

MICHI-CAN said:


> A bit beyond advanced on both fronts. LOL. And just rattling your cage hoping for further thought on your behalf. I wish I had a kit when I started. Hard lessons for few seasons.
> 
> Again peace and props for your proper response and demeanor.


We're all on the same team trying to grow great grass. lol


----------



## Boreal Curing (Jun 4, 2021)

Here's a good link to an Air Exchange Calculator for people drying in a tent or room.
https://learnmetrics.com/air-changes-per-hour-calculator-and-formula/
We use something similar for our rooms.


----------



## GreenhouseGreen (Jun 4, 2021)

Boreal Curing said:


> Here's a good link to an Air Exchange Calculator for people drying in a tent or room.
> https://learnmetrics.com/air-changes-per-hour-calculator-and-formula/
> We use something similar for our rooms.


I checked out your website. The pictures you have of your 5 gal curing buckets look awfully close to Derek Gilman's. It looks like you took stills from his video showing his buckets with his In the Pines.






Am I crazy or missing something?


----------



## Dank Bongula (Jun 4, 2021)




----------



## MICHI-CAN (Jun 4, 2021)

Dank Bongula said:


>


Are you gonna pass that?


----------



## Dank Bongula (Jun 4, 2021)

MICHI-CAN said:


> Are you gonna pass that?


Utterly rude and uncalled for if I didn't


----------



## MICHI-CAN (Jun 4, 2021)

Dank Bongula said:


> Utterly rude and uncalled for if I didn't


It is dark and I suffer from T-rex appendage syndrome here. I'm trying to pass the hash pipe. 

LMAO. TY. 

And we should walk. OP paid to play and no foul as I see I see.


----------



## Boreal Curing (Jun 5, 2021)

GreenhouseGreen said:


> I checked out your website. The pictures you have of your 5 gal curing buckets look awfully close to Derek Gilman's. It looks like you took stills from his video showing his buckets with his In the Pines.
> 
> 
> View attachment 4916617
> ...


Nope. That's where the image came from. Another image of the buckets came from gamma corporation. The images of the Totes came from Iris. The images of the Jars came from Google. Images of the small parts came from Google. I'm sure there's more. None are copyrighted if that's what you're thinking. Lol


----------



## Halman9000 (Jun 9, 2021)

Halman9000


----------



## Halman9000 (Jun 10, 2021)

Halman9000


----------



## Halman9000 (Jun 10, 2021)

Oops . Some how my music that I post on the Chill Music page got duplicated onto the Perfect Cure Everytime thread at the same time .

Not sure how that happend but it is my bad but I still can't figure out how it happened . I guess I was reading this thread on curing at the same time I was posting on the Chill Music thread and somehow it posted my music on two threads at the same time . Sorry .

Halman9000


----------



## deerkill (Jun 13, 2021)

Has anyone used cannatrol equip. for drying/storage?


----------



## GanjaJack (Jul 27, 2021)

What I have been experimenting with a little is harvesting the same variety at different ripeness stages. 

Sometimes harvesting a week before what I would think would be the "official harvest time", sometimes a week after, and notice how different the weed looks, and tastes. I find that harvesting pre-maturely lends more greenish, spicy sativa like characteristics and harvesting "post-maturely", gives me really nice hashy, earthy flavors. It's intriguing to me that 2 weeks can make such a difference in how my plant tastes and looks though it's the same exact variety.


----------



## Edward Hammers (Jul 27, 2021)

As a newbie. what does RH stand for ?


----------



## magnetik (Jul 27, 2021)

Edward Hammers said:


> As a newbie. what does RH stand for ?


relative humidity


----------



## Edward Hammers (Jul 27, 2021)

magnetik said:


> relative humidity


ty


----------



## PioneerValleyOG (Aug 13, 2021)

Ugh. 
Just ugh.


----------



## bk78 (Aug 13, 2021)

PioneerValleyOG said:


> Ugh.
> Just ugh.


You constipated or something?


----------



## Cycad (Sep 1, 2021)

Frank Nitty said:


> Is there a benefit to leaving your plants in the dark when all the leaves are yellow???


Well, after a while they will get sad, and start moving toward the door, hoping to leave town for brighter pastures. Unless it's a scrog. Then, they just off themselves.


----------



## farmingfisherman (Sep 1, 2021)

Edward Hammers said:


> As a newbie. what does RH stand for ?


Really high!


----------



## Cryoes (Oct 7, 2021)

9 year old topic.. that is hardly on topic.. that pretty much sums up this entire forum lol


----------



## bk78 (Oct 7, 2021)

Cryoes said:


> 9 year old topic.. that is hardly on topic.. that pretty much sums up this entire forum lol


I thought you were leaving?



Cryoes said:


> I will find a site with atleast some dignity and moderation taking place.


----------



## MICHI-CAN (Oct 7, 2021)

bk78 said:


> I thought you were leaving?


----------



## bk78 (Oct 7, 2021)

Pills and whisky for dinner again boomer?


----------



## MICHI-CAN (Oct 7, 2021)

bk78 said:


> Pills and whisky for dinner again boomer?


I wish. Hold both in contempt. Was Organic from my "not townhouse" backyard garden. As I begin preparations for ham and cheese cat's head biscuits. Strange for a Yankee. But I been everywhere townhome boy. LOl. Come out come out wherever you are.


----------



## bk78 (Oct 7, 2021)

MICHI-CAN said:


> I wish. Hold both in contempt. Was Organic from my "not townhouse" backyard garden. As I begin preparations for ham and cheese cat's head biscuits. Strange for a Yankee. But I been everywhere townhome boy. LOl. Come out come out wherever you are.


You’d break a hip if you moved too fast. Relax cuck


----------



## MICHI-CAN (Oct 7, 2021)

bk78 said:


> You’d break a hip if you moved too fast. Relax cuck


Please show me the proper side step. I was taught to step up pussy cat.


----------



## bk78 (Oct 7, 2021)

MICHI-CAN said:


> Please show me the proper side step. I was taught to step up pussy cat.



Can’t side step with your cane and walker


----------



## MICHI-CAN (Oct 7, 2021)

bk78 said:


> Can’t side step with your cane and walker


And are you creeping me? My walker would eat your pussy cat ass. Too funny perp boy. You grow weed. Wow. We all do. Who gives a fuck besides lookat me fucks like you. Shut up bitch. And I say it face to face if I must crawl out my door to do so. BIOTCH SHUT THE FUCK UP!


----------



## PadawanWarrior (Oct 7, 2021)




----------



## DrOgkush (Oct 7, 2021)

Holy shit


----------



## MICHI-CAN (Oct 7, 2021)

PadawanWarrior said:


> View attachment 5004949


----------



## MICHI-CAN (Oct 7, 2021)

"Let' eat bad guys"!


----------



## Swiller (Feb 6, 2022)

bk78 said:


> Can’t side step with your cane and walker


Plenty of boomers that would kick your teeth in, personally I prefer self defense 2nd Amendment.


----------



## Herb & Suds (Feb 6, 2022)

Swiller said:


> Plenty of boomers that would kick your teeth in, personally I prefer self defense 2nd Amendment.


You have got to be the toughest guy on the internet today


----------



## xtsho (Feb 6, 2022)

Just dry, jar, and smoke. Why go through the hassle of curing just to smoke old weed. Terpenes start degrading as soon as the plant is chopped. Smoke it while it's fresh. Not 2 months later after fiddling around burping jars twice a day.


----------



## Swiller (Feb 6, 2022)

Nope, just a survivor. Not tough at all, just your average freedom loving human.


----------



## Swiller (Feb 6, 2022)

xtsho said:


> Just dry, jar, and smoke. Why go through the hassle of curing just to smoke old weed. Terpenes start degrading as soon as the plant is chopped. Smoke it while it's fresh. Not 2 months later after fiddling around burping jars twice a day.


Strange, because I always get the best aroma after about 3-4 weeks of curing.


----------



## xtsho (Feb 6, 2022)

Swiller said:


> Nope, just a survivor. Not tough at all, just your average freedom loving human.


Why did you respond to a thread that hasn't been posted to in 4 months just to make a post referring to violence?


----------



## xtsho (Feb 6, 2022)

Swiller said:


> Strange, because I always get the best aroma after about 3-4 weeks of curing.


I prefer it fresh when the terpenes are at their highest levels. The trick is to dry it slowly until it can be jarred and sealed without the threat of mold.


----------



## bk78 (Feb 6, 2022)

Herb & Suds said:


> You have got to be the toughest guy on the internet today


Who’s the sock?


----------



## Herb & Suds (Feb 6, 2022)

bk78 said:


> Who’s the sock?


He came out of nowhere after you so I assume he is one of your admirers


----------



## bk78 (Feb 6, 2022)

Herb & Suds said:


> He came out of nowhere after you so I assume he is one of your admirers


Looks like he’s your friend actually, bro.






See How The Government Is Spending Our Money


but...it was a simpler time...peppridge farms remembers.... I still eat that bread.....



www.rollitup.org


----------



## Herb & Suds (Feb 6, 2022)

bk78 said:


> Looks like he’s your friend actually, bro.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yeah but I called out his BS long ago
Lol


----------



## potpimp (Feb 6, 2022)

bk78 said:


> View attachment 5080956


This belongs in the politics section, not here.


----------



## bk78 (Feb 6, 2022)

potpimp said:


> This belongs in the politics section, not here.



So does flexing your tiny little second amendment 

trot along now pimp


----------



## potpimp (Feb 6, 2022)

bk78 said:


> So does flexing your tiny little second amendment
> 
> trot along now pimp


My second amendment is much bigger than your tiny little dick.


----------



## bk78 (Feb 6, 2022)

potpimp said:


> My second amendment is much bigger than your tiny little dick.


Doubtful


----------



## Swiller (Feb 6, 2022)

i bet you drive a huge truck too. Anyone that talks about their big dick, is one.


----------



## Swiller (Feb 6, 2022)

9:43 a turd named bk78 followed you. If you decide pay a visit to my personal home and see how that turns out.


----------



## bk78 (Feb 6, 2022)

Swiller said:


> 9:43 a turd named bk78 followed you. If you decide pay a visit to my personal home and see how that turns out.


I like to keep track of my haters, its not like I swung by your double wide for a pabst or anything like that.


----------



## DoubleAtotheRON (Feb 6, 2022)

PBR.. the MadDog 20/20 of beer!


----------



## GreenhouseGreen (Feb 6, 2022)

Swiller said:


> 9:43 a turd named bk78 followed you. If you decide pay a visit to my personal home and see how that turns out.


So tough. Man amongst boys here.

What makes you think visiting your home in the US was even a thought in this scenario?


----------



## ElxFeezy (Mar 10, 2022)

mr. green thumb 01 said:


> Experience- It didnt work for me and I feel that is to wet to go into jars I tried a few times not just once. Same problem as obijohn.. Terrible dark discoloration, loss of smell, and little bag appeal. I kinda think the rh in my house is to high for this and they NEVER dry. When I open my jars and 65-70% rh goes in there, they just get wetter. I like to get them nice and dry hanging the whole plant, trim, and then cure. The texture (moisture content) and smell go right where I want it during the cure. It also seems to take less time. Anyone having a large harvest would need a rack of rh meters and I just dont see that being practical. BTW thanks guys for opening this thread hopefully simond can now help some people understand this process better. For me and my drying this is where the cure starts and I quote from Simon *"60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.*" Leave them dry until the stem cracks when you bend it. I think the post is a little confusing as it first says start curing before the stem snaps and it is still pliable but then its followed up by curing starts when product is at 60-65% and STEM SNAPS.
> 
> Hopefully I didnt offend anyone from this post. Just trying to learn. Also I hope mature people can overlook previous debates and give good solid information with out the ridiculing.


I feel you buddy. I’m just coming back from a year long break from this site. The Elitism and Gatekeeping here can be extreme. As for your comment, if you can’t get the buds dry enough, curing will never work. Curing DEFINITELY kicks your buds to GOD level buds, but if they’re too moist, they get ruined. It’s happened to me twice now. Beautiful buds go in, weird looking, perfume smelling buds come out.


----------



## Buzzzxx (Mar 10, 2022)

Wow open the thread it was 2012 and a members was giving help hints to improve grow. Hit end of thread and its 2022 and couple of forum bros bashing it out. Says alot about the times we live in. Sad really. Opinions are like assholes, everybody has one and most of em stink. What doesn't stink is knowledge, and this forum has tons of it. Colleges don't know a percentage of what we collectively know. We should share more of that. I apologize but 4 bong rips of chemical bride has me feeling nostalgic. Happy growing family.


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## potpimp (Mar 11, 2022)

bk78 said:


> I like to keep track of my haters, its not like I swung by your double wide for a pabst or anything like that.


I'm stealing this one.


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## Gropadawan (Mar 24, 2022)

I've read most of this thread. I'm a fairly new grower, but I really didn't understand the 1) Dry until it snaps, followed by 2) Jar it and burp it every day for the first 2 weeks, etc. The drying until it snaps seemed to be really subjective, and I always got the real snaps when it was too late and the weed was already dry in the 50% RH range. For burping jars, it seemed like everybody had a different idea of how long that should be, and the science I sometimes saw people describe seemed not so scientific to me.

SimonD, the OP, seemed to put some real goals behind these actions, so I'm trying it out with my most recent harvest. I chopped before it snapped. Then jarred and the RH went into the 80's pretty quickly. Dumped it all out and dried for a while -- never the 12-24 hours people are saying because in my dry location, that would dry them out too much and I'd be back with no curing weed. Back in the jars and we're in the 65%-70% RH. I have high hopes for the best weed ever, because I'm already vaping some of this stuff uncured, and I think it's about the best weed ever. lol

Anyway, I want to make a contribution for folks to consider. Everybody talks about hygrometers, whether analog or digital, expensive or cheap. I've used the little ones from Amazon that you can either drop in the jar, or double-sided tape to the jar lid. These work good, but you still have to open the jar to read them a lot of the time, or shake the jars until the readout can be seen, and that's not good for your trichomes. A better option is a blue-tooth enabled hygrometer like this one from Govee



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097HF322L?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details&th=1



They cost less than $15 each, and you can drop one in each of your jars, and always know the RH in all of your jars without having to shake them or open them. They are really cool. The only downside is that they are bluetooth, so you need to be in your house to read the RH in the app on your phone. I also have some of the wifi versions, which can also drop into the jars. They are a bit larger, so I feel like they put too much weight on top of the weed. Might use them if I go on vacation.

Oh, and one thing I will note from using these bluetooth enabled hygrometers. The RH in a sealed jar is very consistent, and when you dry out the weed and then seal it back up, it will slowly rise for at least 24 hours. So people who say they can get a reading in every jar with just one hygrometer are not so accurate. SimonD was accurate in noting this. As the weed sweats, the RH will slowly rise for the next 24+ hours.


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## DrBuzzFarmer (Mar 30, 2022)

I've dried herb in different states around America.
Each place required me to come up with a new method.
Down south the humidity is insane,
Out West it's so dry your lips crack just breathing.
Up north it stays cool and damp everywhere.
On the East coast the humidity can change in two hours going from 90% to 12%.
It's the herb you have to pay attention to, method be damned.
It's very simple what you are trying to do:
Dry the herb as slowly as possible, to allow the curing process to happen fully.
If it gets too moist, it will 'slump' in the jar and look horrible.
If it gets too dry, the curing process stops.
The curing process is a chemical reaction taking place within the chemicals of the resin. Just like the plant, you provide the environment for that to happen.
Develop your own method since you know what the goal is.

I once got run out of a grow in Maine. I took the plants, almost ready to harvest, and stuffed them quickly into a paper bag.
I then stuffed the bag into a plastic bag.
I then stuffed the plastic bag (unsealed) into another paper bag.
Which I then stuffed into a plastic bag and tied the top.
I stuffed the whole thing into a duffle bag and rode a Greyhound bus from Maine to Christiansburg, Va(which involved a train ride), where I set up a grow for someone.
Two months later I got back on a Greyhound bus with my duffle bag full of herb, and as we were pulling into the Knoxville Greyhound station in Tennessee, I saw cops with dogs headed for the bus. I grabbed my duffle and decided to take a walk.
The bus left without me, so I found a quiet place to do something about the herb.
It was Skunk #1 by Sensi seeds and it was the year 2000.
I started knocking off the dry leaves and realized it was REALLY pretty bud.
A perfect cure. Slightly mashed and pieces of leaf stuck to it, but it was 2000, and people were still buying commercial with pressed seeds in it.
I drank a coke and made a bowl out of the can, and got so high I almost stepped in front of a car and got run over.
Once I opened the plastic, there was no more hiding it.
A bag of herb cured in a plastic bag in a duffle bag bought me a car and a trip back to Virginia.
Those boys in Tennessee were glad to meet a country boy from Virginia. Treated me like family.


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## Northeastskier (Mar 31, 2022)

Swiller said:


> Strange, because I always get the best aroma after about 3-4 weeks of curing.


Out of necessity, have cured for only four weeks and found that it has great potency and flavor. Trying to get as many plants as I can so I can experiment with longer curing times. Learning a lot as I go along, but this much I know already:

The terpines in each chemotype consist of different chemicals in different amounts.
These are volitile chemicals, each with their own bio-degradation qualities.
Base chemicals oxidize and naturally synthesize into hydro and oxide subvarients over a multitude of different time periods.
Terpines become terpinoids as carophyllene becomes carophyllene oxide, linalool becomes linalool oxide, etc., etc.
Commercial manufacturers use these same terpines to produce flavors and scents, e.g. lavender, peppermint, citrus.
During the curing process, many terpinoids are produced via fermentation, while others degrade over time.
Basically, the curing process is throwing a dart at these processes (plural).

You could not go into a drug store and state that every drug on every shelf is synthesized the same way for the same length of time.


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## herbalsage (Mar 31, 2022)

From my experience I can say that I have went well under 45% rh and I was able to revive my buds with fresh boveda. Mind you that I used potassium silicate as foliar and kept buds on stems after drying bellow 45% I just dried it until stems became snappy.


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## Ryax (Aug 3, 2022)

i came here to learn about curing not politics, thanks


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## Racky (Aug 3, 2022)

SimonD said:


> This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.
> 
> It's a very simple and effective process:
> 
> ...


Thank You


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## EKG Cal Canna (Aug 14, 2022)

I keep it simple, cut n hang in a sealed dark room, keep at 74 deg for abt 8 to 10 days with air movement then de nug into buckets or tote bins w lids burping & moving the bottom to the top for a few days. Then let the trimmers do their magic!


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## StareCase (Aug 14, 2022)

EKG Cal Canna said:


> ... burping & moving the bottom to the top for a few days. Then let the trimmers do their magic! ...


So you are curing for just a few days?


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## SamRD (Sep 16, 2022)

StareCase said:


> So you are curing for just a few days?


5 days at 55rh here and it's dry on the outside with some flexibility on the stems, no hay smell


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## harrychilds (Sep 16, 2022)

I've never cured my weed before, I just cut it from the base of the plant when it's ready to harvest and hang it upside down in my tent with my carbon filter running and a fan on the floor facing the wall. I was always told the tent sort of has a curing affect seeming as it's pretty much a sealed unit. I find the longer you hang it, the better it becomes with age. My friend tried to cure his weed before and it all went moldy and after that happened it has never really interested me putting it into jars because I'm too scared to lose my whole crop like what happened to my friend lol


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## Dark_Hatchling (Oct 14, 2022)

ElxFeezy said:


> I feel you buddy. I’m just coming back from a year long break from this site. The Elitism and Gatekeeping here can be extreme. As for your comment, if you can’t get the buds dry enough, curing will never work. Curing DEFINITELY kicks your buds to GOD level buds, but if they’re too moist, they get ruined. It’s happened to me twice now. Beautiful buds go in, weird looking, perfume smelling buds come out.


Ah, my test buds came out smelling a little like perfume too. How do we prevent this?

I hung my buds for about 8 days at a very solid 60%RH. Temps fluctuated between 70-80F. (I'll run the A/C hard when I need to for the full harvest.) They've been in a mason jar for a week or so, the meter in the jar is reading 61%RH. But it seems like it's even losing that perfume smell and nothing is coming back.

Any tips or suggestions you guys can provide?


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## Dark_Hatchling (Oct 14, 2022)

The bud still has a good, sweet bud smell inside when it's broken open. At least this is significantly better than my previous year's harvest, but still not quite where it should be.


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## Lambda Genetics (Oct 29, 2022)

Dark_Hatchling said:


> The bud still has a good, sweet bud smell inside when it's broken open. At least this is significantly better than my previous year's harvest, but still not quite where it should be.


Only thing I have to add is to just keep it under 65f next time during the dry but you've already thought of it. The flower'll retain much more smell in the cure jar after the colder dry for your full harvest.


I'm a tent dryer even after purchasing a Cannatrol (it doesn't hold a lot), and this year I'm running AC or keeping windows open at night for the cold temps, and I run a humidifier outside the tent to keep rH above 55%rH. Day 5... Took down some smaller nugs i had bucked and placed in a drying basket in the tent near the hanging branches and they smell AMAZING... Definitely the secret is keeping temps low enough to protect the volatile terps


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## Dark_Hatchling (Oct 29, 2022)

Lambda Genetics said:


> I'm a tent dryer even after purchasing a Cannatrol (it doesn't hold a lot), and this year I'm running AC or keeping windows open at night for the cold temps, and I run a humidifier outside the tent to keep rH above 55%rH. Day 5... Took down some smaller nugs i had bucked and placed in a drying basket in the tent near the hanging branches and they smell AMAZING... Definitely the secret is keeping temps low enough to protect the volatile terps


Nice, glad to hear they smell good. My buds are smelling pretty good now. I had the humidity dialed in really damn good in the tent this time. I bucked them yesterday after 12/13 days of drying, this year is a huge improvement over last year's harvest. Plus, I think they're going to get even better over the next few days.

I'm thinking I might just have to bite the bullet and buy a small A/C if I can find a good way to insulate my homemade tent. Getting the whole house down to a steady 65F in October just ain't gonna happen for me LOL.


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## OhNo555 (Nov 29, 2022)

What about humidity pack? Does anyone use them when curing in jars? When do you put them in? Are they good or bad idea? What is anyone’s experience out their with their use.


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## Lambda Genetics (Nov 29, 2022)

OhNo555 said:


> What about humidity pack? Does anyone use them when curing in jars? When do you put them in? Are they good or bad idea? What is anyone’s experience out their with their use.


Used to use em. Don't need em.


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## Lotman420 (Nov 30, 2022)

I personally do not care for humidity packs (Boveda or Boost etc). I believe they are just saline solution and after time they can discolor product, especially the product in direct contact with the pack. Off tastes over time have been reported as well. They will rehydrate your cannabis but at what cost. some people say it doesn't bother them or they don't notice a difference but others say they do. Guess you will have to try and see.


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## OhNo555 (Nov 30, 2022)

Lotman420 said:


> I personally do not care for humidity packs (Boveda or Boost etc). I believe they are just saline solution and after time they can discolor product, especially the product in direct contact with the pack. Off tastes over time have been reported as well. They will rehydrate your cannabis but at what cost. some people say it doesn't bother them or they don't notice a difference but others say they do. Guess you will have to try and see.


Thanks for the information as I will have to experiment to see what the difference is and adjust to my preferences and liking


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## kod42 (Dec 7, 2022)

RollUpDawg said:


> View attachment 5234941


Freak show?


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## aBowlOfWhat? (Dec 7, 2022)

kod42 said:


> Freak show?


 Nah I think this is a dummy account to post links and probably ill-intent


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## kod42 (Dec 7, 2022)

Makes sense I see them made everyday lol


aBowlOfWhat? said:


> Nah I think this is a dummy account to post links and probably ill-intent


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## OhNo555 (Dec 7, 2022)

Just somebody posting on the wrong forum. I don’t see the relevance?


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## sh0wtime (Jan 2, 2023)

2-4 days in a net depending on the nug sizes, roughly at 50-55% humidity
then 10-14 days in glasses with humidity sensors.
Open them every day and let humidity not exceed 62-63%.
Soon as the stems are cracking instead of bending, I'm done watching them.

That's how I do my bud if I wanna smoke it rather sooner than later and not spoil it.
No humidity packs needed here.

Cheers!


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