# Guide to Nutrient Deficiency or Toxicity



## nick17gar (Nov 18, 2011)

So 99% of the times I come in here to see what people are up to and check what forum threads I can throw some advice in, its plant issues.

"theres yellowing" or "leaf is dry and brittle" or "OMG SPOTS!" 

so instead of using the 'cut and paste' tools, over and over all day, like I feel I have been, i figured id start this. Theres other stickies on here, but apparently people either dont read them, or cant connect their plant's issues to what those authors are describing.

*NOTE: to make sure your plant is getting what it needs, keep soil pH to 6.5 and 5.8 in hydro, otherwise, the nutes can be there, but the roots cant take them in*

Also, make sure if you notice a deficiency, please please PLEASE, dont drown the plant in that chem to save the day. your not superman. feed the plant. dont suffocate it! Slow changes are the best way to make sure you dont go from a deficiency to an abundance, and the inevitable burn.

So lets start with the basics, NPK.

Nitrogen: This element is everywhere, your breathing it in right now! For your  plants, its key in the vegetative growth. It stimulates and powers the formation of leaves, strengthens the stems, and helps the chlorophyll production.

An *abundance* of this is rare during vegetative, but it happens with new growers that think more ferts = more plant (and your right, but to a limit!). To tell if you have an abundance of nitrogen, simply look at the plant. You want green leaves, but not a dark green -> black color.



A *deficiency* of this causes yellowing of the leaves. its common during vegetative simply because the plant is using it up just as fast as your putting it in. It also happens during flowering sometimes because most flowering fertilizers contain little or no nitrogen, as this is not a key nutrient in that phase of the plant's life cycle.
Usually the deficiency will be noticeable on the lower part of the plant, on the older leaves. then, as it progresses it will move upwards towards the newer growth. 
*unlike a magnesium deficiency, nitrogen def will start from the tips and works its way inward* (ill get to mag def later). Most of all yellowing of leaves is caused by this, and it will stunt growth severely!
View attachment 1894154

Phosphorus (P):
The 2nd element in our NPK ratio and just as important! So, whats it do? Root growth. This nutrient is essential for the roots to thrive, and big roots can feed big plants. Its key from the time the seed hits the dirt. it speeds up germinating, it supports vegetative growth by providing the roots to support it. Its a MAJOR nutrient in reproductive stages of the plant (yes, flowering). No phosphorus, no buds.

Abundance: too much can affect plant growth by suppressing the intake of iron, potassium, copper and zinc. (wierd huh? but yea, phosphorus abundance is generally followed by a zinc deficiency)

[if someone has a pic of P abundance lemme know and ill add it in]

Deficiency: Didnt i go over this? slow growth! slow leaf growth, slow root growth, slow germination of seeds, slow bud production, the edges of eaves will be brown. Even fan leaves, the plants solar cells, will be affected by this, turning them to a dark green, purple and blue color. (not the kind of purple you want.)
*Deficiency of this can be caused by low temperatures - below 50F/10C

View attachment 1894180View attachment 1894181

Potassium (K): 
a.k.a. potash, this nutrient is key for the usage of carbs/sugars. This is key for sturdy/thick stems, small bushy plants and disease resistance. Its needed for all stages of plant growth, especially bud formation.

Abundance: this is pretty rare to notice, excess potassium usually isnt absorbed by the plants but can mess with levels of magnesium, manganese zinc and iron. This in turn leads to salt damage acid fluctuations and possibly a calcium deficiency

Deficiency: this has yellowing of leaves, from outside in, but with a dark green center vein, and curling of leaf tips, this is mistakenly diagnosed as nitrogen def or iron def a LOT. Stems and branches will be weak, easily broken. the plant may also stretch. *too much sodium (NA) can cause a potassium deficiency.

View attachment 1894188View attachment 1894189


Ok so thats the basics. Now on to the trace elements. Wonder why they call them 'trace' elements? and why you dont see ratios or percentages on how much of them to use? its becuase you dont want too much of them. you want them, but very very little.

Magnesium (Mg): this is a component of the chlorophyll molecule, it works with enzymes in the plant. Magnesium helps support healthy veins, and leaf production.

Abundance: Excessive levels will create a toxic amount of salts, that will inturn kill your leaves, and lock out calcium. 

Deficiency: This is pretty easy to notice, green veins but fully yellow leaves. leaf tips can discolor and curl upwards. leaf edges can feel dry and crispy. the necrosis on the leaf will start at the edges, work all the way around the leaf. the tips will twist and turn, then the leaves will fall off without withering. *mag def is common with too acidic pH*
heres 3 pics of early-med-late deficiencies of magnesium:

early:
View attachment 1894202

later:
View attachment 1894204

Zinc (Zn): Zinc does a little of everything, helps in plant size production of leaves, stalks, stems branches... Essential component in enzymes and growth hormones. its key in the formation of chlorophyll. Plants that have a healthy amount of zinc are more *resistant to drought.*

Abundance: this is rare. it can cuase wilting and death in extreme cases. but usually, this wont happen.

Deficiency: Spotting, bleaching of spots between veins (commonly confused with iron/mag def). Usually appears on older leaves first. It will affect the tips of growing points on the plants. Small crops due to zinc def is common. Pale/greyish leaves will be apparent (check for a nice shine to the leaves, if they lack some luster, they might lack zinc!)

View attachment 1894207View attachment 1894209

Calcium (Ca): Strong bones, duh. no really. strong cell walls, cell division, and root growth (mostly the newer root hairs). Helps absorbtion of K. Calcium moves slow, and tends to concentrate in roots/older growth.

Abundance: Too much can lead to other deficiencies. this can be caused by clay soils, unbuffered coco/humus, or excessive lime in the soil.

Deficiency: First visible in newer growth, leaf tips will die, tips may curl, growth is stunted. there will be a weakness in stems/branches. underdeveloped roots, and bacteria problems can arise. *can be cuased by too much potassium/nitrogen* calcium deficiency is commonly mistaken for over ferting. its key to notice in these pics that early stages of deficiency appear in the serrated edges/tips of the leaves, but its not just a death/necrosis, its a *small circular spots of death, not just burn marks. *young leaves will develop dwarfing, a strap-like shape, and shoots stop growing and thicken.
View attachment 1894224

later, it appears all over the leaf, and becuase its usually on the older growth, many people think its bugs. (noobs.... do you see bugs anywhere?)
View attachment 1894226

Iron (Fe):
Abundance: This is mistaken a lot for pH imbalance. Brown spotting on top leaves. can affect the entire plant. This is rare with pH below 5.5

Deficiency: discoloring of the leaves mainly between the veins, starting with the lower/middle leaves. when i say discoloring, i dont mean a light green, i mean almost white. its a bleaching that starts at the top, and moves down, eventually, necrotic spots appear. this can be caused by over watering, excessive salts, 
View attachment 1894241

Sulfur (S): important in root growth

Abundance: plants will be small even tho the leaves continue to be relatively large. the leaf tips will be brown and dead. this is commonly confused with salt damage.

Deficiency: the first sign will be pale new leaves. growth will be stunted. leaves can be brittle and narrow-er then normal. you can get mutated leaves becuase of this. in flowering, buds will die off! NOT COOL. stems will become hard and thin. this is commonly confused with nitrogen deficiency, but NO, the yellowing starts at the center of leaf, and works its way outward. (pic 1), then 2nd pic shows mutations caused by S def.
View attachment 1894245
View attachment 1894247


Manganese (Mn): this aids in chlorophyl production and enzyme usage.
Abundance: too much will cause an iron deficiency. blotchy leaf tissue. plants will seems to have weak vigor.

Deficiency: Young leaves will be mottled, spotted with yellow and brown areas. dead spots will appear, leaves will yellow, veins remain green. rumored that leaves can have a checkered pattern. This really only happens in young/new growth. 
View attachment 1894258

Boron (B): this is key for pollen/seed production, and absorption of calcium. 
Abundance: too much boron can produce a lot of problems. leaf tips turn yellow progressing inwards. this is commonly confused with a mag def, but only on new growth.

Deficiency: this will first show on younger leaves, they will yellow. this resembles calcium deficiency. stunted growth, discoloration, death of growing tips. buds will stop forming. tip of shoots will die. stems/petioles will brittle. leaves will curl, and die. dead spots develop between veins, and leaves will become thick. boron is not absorbed with too much potassium. a lack of boron can lead to rot/fungus. can also cause severly hollowed stems. (fast fact: boric acid can be purchased at pharmacies for fungus treatment, as well as for jewelers to remove salts/oils from their work before they apply the torch to them. its kills bacteria, and can even be used in your laundry as a weak bleach!... the more you know....)
View attachment 1894276

Molybdenum (Mo): helps the plants absorb nitrogen from the air.

Abundance: this generally doesnt cause any issues....until you smoke it. ( /cough cough, puke puke). abundance will appear as iron/copper deficiencies. 

Deficiency: leaves will pale, appear fringed and scorched. wierd leaf patterns. Yellowing of middle leaves. twisted younger leaves. this is commonly mistaken for a N deficiency, generally starts on older growth, and moves to newer growth. this usually happens when sulfur and phosphorus are deficient. Severe Mo def will appear as pinkness/orange color to leaves.
View attachment 1894279



these last few ill be quick on, they arent very common at all, except maybe the chlorine one, but dont use freshly poured tap water, and you wont you have issues with it.

Copper: 
deficiency: sturned growth, distortion of younger leaves. twisting.
abundance: root growth stops.

Cobalt: essential to bacteria in soil. abundance is rare (shits not cheap so many nutes wont have it) and deficiency wont occur (becuase the plants dont need it, the bacteria in the soil can use it, but dont require it either)

Chlorine: FOUND IN WATER FROM THE TAP, ironically, it evaporates at lower temperatures than water, so pour a large jug, leave it out for 1-3 days, and its chlorine free. Deficiency: leaves will appear bronze. roots stop growing. Abundance: burnt leaf tips.

nickel: much of this isnt known/documented in detail, but its rare to have issues with it. mainly its used for seed germination, but most soils have plenty, and more wont be needed for the duration of the grow.

*So, to sum this all up: *death of leafs, discoloration, twisting, etc... is usually a deficiency. If the issue started with just the tips, make sure its not your calcium being off, otherwise, its probably nute burn. (the majority of the times, the nutrients will accumulate in those serrated edges/tips, they act like little buckets, and they burn). thats the first sign you put too much crap in. 

If you see an issue on your plants, dont freak out! if you think you didnt put enough of something, water the plants, with the nutrient mixed in, AT A LOW DOSAGE to start. if it gets better, you were right. if it doesnt, you werent, but atleast ya didnt cause an abundance of something else. 

If you think you put too much of something in, then you have 2 options, if its just some burning on the leaf tips, dont flush it out with gallons of water, as this isnt good either. just water a little (with 0 of the excess element), and with time, the nutrients will balance out again. if you accidently tripped over the power cord to the lights, and dumped a gallon of some nutrient rich solution onto a plant, then yea, flushing might be smart.

If your in soil, and you have the catch trays, RINSE THEM OUT EVERY SO OFTEN. nutrients in the runoff will accumulate. if your in a hydro set up, CLEAN THAT OUT TOO. as the water in the reservoir dries, the nutrient will cake up and dry on the sides like a crusty salt build up, and when you add water next time that stuff will mix in, and something will get all crazy. 

the key is to check the plants often. dont freak out when theres an issue. and keep a tidy grow room. you dont want bottles spilling all over the place, or mixtures on the counter being unmarked and you guessing at what they are.

the last piece of info i can give: You are not a genius or a godlike deity. dont think you can take a turd in the backyard, wait a week and use that as home made fertilizer (yes, theres a thread on this.) the entire point of this websites' forums is a community of people, knowledge, and experience. trust Roll it up. trust each other and trust yourself.

happy growing!


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## nick17gar (Nov 18, 2011)

these should help too:

View attachment 1894317


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## calicatt79 (Nov 18, 2011)

I do believe this is the most valuable thread I have had the pleasure of reading since I joined, thank you so much  I will be bookmarking this and using as a reference....YOU ROCK!!!!!


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## kennelmaid (Nov 18, 2011)

I agree. This will be my go-to guide from here on. Thank you.


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## MyNameIs (Nov 18, 2011)

This should without a doubt become a sticky. 10x better info and more helpful than the others. Props!


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## neved (Nov 18, 2011)

Ty guy NICK ...(I think my prb is Ca def so)
U r perfect doctor for us..
Wish to hear more and more from u and your exp/////
Very very good issue....
BEst wishes ....


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## dirtymane (Nov 19, 2011)

Awesome post, Thanks man.


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## neved (Nov 19, 2011)

nick17gar said:


> these should help too:
> 
> View attachment 1894317View attachment 1894318


....
I grow hydro
And I keep ph level on 5.8 but this prb (cal/mag def) happen...
Before I play with my ph range in 5.8-6.0 and they were better I thought ....
U can c In your chart that Ca absorb is different at all by Mag absorb....!?!?!?WHy ?


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## nick17gar (Nov 19, 2011)

neved said:


> Ty guy NICK ...(I think my prb is Ca def so)View attachment 1895245View attachment 1895246View attachment 1895247
> U r perfect doctor for us..
> Wish to hear more and more from u and your exp/////
> Very very good issue....
> BEst wishes ....


looking at the pics, yea your probably low on nitrogen too, but honestly, i wouldnt change anything, you have good bud growth and they are finishing up their life. that first pic is impressive!


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## lime73 (Nov 19, 2011)

this material is provided everywhere on RIU.... but I do see your point.

some just want an answer without doing any research, but when it comes to growing it can be Very simple ( with a little knowledge of the basics ) and this comes from reading,reading,reading and experience. 

"KNOWLEDGE IS THE KEY TO SUCCESS!"
"WISDOM IS APPLYING THE KNOWLEDGE TO SUCCEED!"

Good post +rep


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## nick17gar (Nov 19, 2011)

yea this info is on here already, some of it is scattered around. some of the info i got from other grow sites.

half the reason i wrote this was to compile it all onto 1 page for personal reference haha.


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## welshsmoker (Nov 19, 2011)

nice work fella.


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## pingerau (Nov 20, 2011)

This is a really awesome post. So many threads give detailed descriptions on deficiencies but not on over nutrients. +Rep.


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## nick17gar (Nov 20, 2011)

yea thanks for the responses guys! its hard to find pics of abundances of chems, so if you guys come across them, send them to me and ill edit that post. 
Happy growing!


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## yumyumyuh (Nov 22, 2011)

Very helpful feed. So I am 99% sure I have a calcium problem. My leaves look almost identical to the bottom photo under calcium. Whether its an abundance or deficiency, I am not sure. My plants are well into the flowering stage and Ive been giving them steady pottash fert. Which makes me believe it might be a calcium deficiency. However I had used organic soil with hummus in it which is stated in calcium abundance. But my real question is, How do I fix a calcium deficiency? And if its an abundance..how do I correct it?


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## CloneArmy420 (Nov 22, 2011)

this is easily the best sticky now for plant problems, great job this will help alot of people


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## Grumpy' (Nov 22, 2011)

Great info well done. I don't want you to feel it was in vain, but even as a sticky it will get overlooked. That's the nature of the beast with forums.

Plus rep for effort


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## BeefSteak (Nov 23, 2011)

I find it gives little consideration to most using a two part fertilizer where simply adding more A or B so to say will cure most problems. Most two part fertilizers are pretty complete for the competent grower and it should be easy to work out your Cal/Mag levels too so i find a lot of this merely confuses the grower more over just learning to use his ferts properly and checking Cal/Mag levels.

Some ask whats this deficiency and the answer is not necessary Phosphorous or Calcium over add more A or B to vary the nutrient levels. Lots of blooms or B dont contain enough nutrients to make it complete hence why most nutrient companies advise on their chart to run veg ferts through the flowering but simply upping the bloom ferts till the P/K is higher than the N. Without the grow yer you probably are Cal or Mag deficient not to mention the abuse of Phosphorous and Potassium. Thanks


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## nick17gar (Nov 23, 2011)

Grumpy' said:


> Great info well done. I don't want you to feel it was in vain, but even as a sticky it will get overlooked. That's the nature of the beast with forums.
> 
> Plus rep for effort


yea im sure it will be overlooked, but for those that read the forums before starting new threads (such a novel idea), this is another reference. 

Im dealing with bugs at the moment in my personal grow, maybe ill write something up on that, still trying to figure out the best ways to deal with it. im trying dif techniques on each plant, and seeing which work best.
Either way, plants will grow. people will read or not read forums. hopefully this just gives us another tool in the battle for bigger better buds.


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## kjcbud (Nov 23, 2011)

amazing info thanks!!!!! even a dumb ass like me can understand it!!!!


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## nick17gar (Nov 25, 2011)

yumyumyuh said:


> Very helpful feed. So I am 99% sure I have a calcium problem. My leaves look almost identical to the bottom photo under calcium. Whether its an abundance or deficiency, I am not sure. My plants are well into the flowering stage and Ive been giving them steady pottash fert. Which makes me believe it might be a calcium deficiency. However I had used organic soil with hummus in it which is stated in calcium abundance. But my real question is, How do I fix a calcium deficiency? And if its an abundance..how do I correct it?


calcium deficiency youd add bonemeal to the soil... hard to do with plants already in there. ive heard crushed eggshells, and ive heard 1teaspoon milk / liter of water. no idea if any of these work, i havent had this problem before.
Abundances can be treated by flushing (if severe) or they will correct themselves over time by just watering and making sure your not adding more of that chem/element in.


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## spoad (Nov 25, 2011)

Ive looked through all defs on here and cant find any that resemble mine,a black spot appears then the next day it turns brown then gets bigger and eventually it drys and the leaf is damaged to much,the plant is only 17 days old and the rest are fine,sorry dont have no pics but help and possible info would be appreciated,thanks?????


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## nick17gar (Nov 26, 2011)

spoad said:


> Ive looked through all defs on here and cant find any that resemble mine,a black spot appears then the next day it turns brown then gets bigger and eventually it drys and the leaf is damaged to much,the plant is only 17 days old and the rest are fine,sorry dont have no pics but help and possible info would be appreciated,thanks?????


ummmmmm yea a pic is the best way to know man. a lot can start as a dot that gets bigger and badder. is this happening on all the leaves? just one? where did the dot of death start? middle of leaf? tips? what color are the leaves? are they a nice rich green from top of plant to bottom? theres a lot of factors to take into account when something goes wrong.


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## TheNewGuyy (Nov 30, 2011)

what does it mean if all of the leaves are light green in color? they also have burnt edges and tips. I have done some research but cant quite identify


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## Rick Ratlin (Dec 2, 2011)

+1 awesome thread looks like i need to foliar feed some cal-mag


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## Hotsause (Dec 2, 2011)

Nick you are the man this is by far the easiest and most helpful guide to navigate and get your info. + Rep and much love for doing this


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## ottawaliquid (Dec 8, 2011)

Big help.. Thanks for sharing!


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## mcgyversmoke (Dec 9, 2011)

Hey there,
First off thanks for writing this up it helped alot. 
and second im pretty sure this is magnesium deficiency but id really like a second opinion


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## unclebobbyb (Dec 13, 2011)

WHAT! You telling me I'm not a GOD 

This is a great explanation, thanks for the knowledge. I loved the turd part, I was in absorb mode then, BAM!

Happy Holidays


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## watchhowIdoit (Dec 13, 2011)

mcgyversmoke said:


> Hey there,
> First off thanks for writing this up it helped alot.
> and second im pretty sure this is magnesium deficiency but id really like a second opinion


Looks more like a calcium deficiency too me. Looks to be up in the newer growth. Calcium is immobile. Magnesium is mobile and deficiencies usually presents in older growth as the plant moves the magnesium where it needs it, for new growth...


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## mcgyversmoke (Dec 13, 2011)

so if its calcium how do i treat for it? cuz it is pretty much only on the newer leaves.
I've been using water out of our tap because its pretty damn good here and when you add the sensi bloom it goes down to 6.5 ph. 
I'm very worried and not sure how they are gunna come out of it. they seem to be getting worse and worse, although still growing well and putting out alot of crystals.


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## watchhowIdoit (Dec 13, 2011)

mcgyversmoke said:


> so if its calcium how do i treat for it? cuz it is pretty much only on the newer leaves.
> I've been using water out of our tap because its pretty damn good here and when you add the sensi bloom it goes down to 6.5 ph.
> I'm very worried and not sure how they are gunna come out of it. they seem to be getting worse and worse, although still growing well and putting out alot of crystals.


I am not familiar with sensi bloom and its contents. But if its like most AN products it is not complete so a calcium additive is probably needed, even with your tap water. CalMag or the like will work fine. On an outside notion does your tap water pass through a water softener? If so you coud have excess sodium build up in your medium. And this would be an actual case of lock up, not just a simple deficiency.....


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## Mindmelted (Dec 13, 2011)

Great info thanks.....


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## mcgyversmoke (Dec 13, 2011)

watchhowIdoit said:


> I am not familiar with sensi bloom and its contents. But if its like most AN products it is not complete so a calcium additive is probably needed, even with your tap water. CalMag or the like will work fine. On an outside notion does your tap water pass through a water softener? If so you coud have excess sodium build up in your medium. And this would be an actual case of lock up, not just a simple deficiency.....


i dont believe it does, ive never heard of anyone using a softner up here. im going to go pick up some cal/mag and see how that helps. im supposed to do a normal water watering today, should i just do straight water with cal/mag? i know its not a lockout because i already had the issue early in my grow when i wasnt ph'ing my water. then i flushed with 6.5 water heavy for a weeek now they are back on a regular cycle of feeding. 
I appreciate the help watch.


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## watchhowIdoit (Dec 13, 2011)

Just add a 1/4 tsp per irrigation cycle, feeding or not, and see how they respond keeping an eye on the new growth. No worries, your welcome.....


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## nick17gar (Dec 14, 2011)

unclebobbyb said:


> WHAT! You telling me I'm not a GOD
> 
> This is a great explanation, thanks for the knowledge. I loved the turd part, I was in absorb mode then, BAM!
> 
> Happy Holidays


haha yea, that was seriously a post on here. and if i recall correctly, there was a few pages on it and why its a bad idea.


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## Thedillestpickle (Dec 15, 2011)

nick17gar said:


> these should help too:
> 
> View attachment 1894317View attachment 1894318


Nice thread this is! I dont understant why hydro should be different than soil, but also Im going to be growing in coco which has no nutrients in it, so I assume this means I should be using Hydro nutes? does this mean I should follow that chart with a Ph of 5.8 even though I will be watering myself as you would with soil? maybe a medium somewhere in between?


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## gobskiii (Dec 15, 2011)

hit 'em with some CAL/MAG plus!!!!!


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## lime73 (Dec 15, 2011)

Thedillestpickle said:


> Nice thread this is! I dont understant why hydro should be different than soil, but also Im going to be growing in coco which has no nutrients in it, so I assume this means I should be using Hydro nutes? does this mean I should follow that chart with a Ph of 5.8 even though I will be watering myself as you would with soil? maybe a medium somewhere in between?


you are correct treat coco like hydro for ph.


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## lime73 (Dec 15, 2011)

gobskiii said:


> hit 'em with some CAL/MAG plus!!!!!


just curious does that come in one formula?


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## gobskiii (Dec 15, 2011)

yes it does, and its the shit...if you ask me...i'd say a good 65% of deficiencys can be attributed to lack of calcium, or magnesium...whether it be sneackily comming up from a overfeeding of N or colder temps making it harder for the plant to uptake all nutrients.


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## Thedillestpickle (Dec 15, 2011)

were you suggesting that I use cal/mag with what im doing with hydro? Or was that just a general, everyone should use cal/mag plus ?


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## gobskiii (Dec 15, 2011)

it was for mcgyversmoke.


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## mcgyversmoke (Dec 16, 2011)

thank you gobskii,
I actually went and got some and now i add it every watering feeding or not


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## nick17gar (Dec 18, 2011)

gobskiii said:


> yes it does, and its the shit...if you ask me...i'd say a good 65% of deficiencys can be attributed to lack of calcium, or magnesium...whether it be sneackily comming up from a overfeeding of N or colder temps making it harder for the plant to uptake all nutrients.


yea cal mag is a pretty common one, thankfully it doesnt take much of either for a plant to thrive. they just have to be included.
Im currently using a 4 part nutrient solution and only 1 of the 4 contains both of these, the other 3 dont. 

I kinda just think people need to read the labels, and know what is in that jug of "Green Booster!" or whatever they buy


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## skunkpunk13 (Dec 19, 2011)

or u can use epsom salt its a grreat sorce of cal and mag


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## welshsmoker (Dec 19, 2011)

im glad i made this a sticky.


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## IntrepidTraveler420 (Dec 21, 2011)

Very clear explanation and good photos. I just wanted to add in to the 2nd post and chart of PH. For soil with organics you should not be PHing your water and instead using dolomite lime and humus. I was adding like 30ml PH up to my earth juice tea and experienced a wide variety of deficiencies. Just my 2 cents


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## HigherGround (Dec 21, 2011)

Cal-mag + with every feeding and even with plain water for me. Esecially if you r.o. your water because everything that water has in gets removed. I like the soluble instead of empsom because it's easy to adjust.


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## calicatt79 (Dec 21, 2011)

hey there, I wanted to send along some pics of a abundance of nitrogen. I accidentally spilled about a 1/4 cup of blood meal into the dirt of my little baby. She's 8 weeks old now and still hasn't fully recovered. She is getting ready to begin flowering in about 2 weeks and is very dark green towards the bottom but getting lighter at the top! I haven't given her any more blood meal since  The larger lower fan leaves are getting kind of stiff and look like they are drying up a bit. Do you think she'll make it? I sure do hope so 
)View attachment 1948126View attachment 1948127View attachment 1948127


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## Thedillestpickle (Dec 22, 2011)

I may have a put a bit too much nutes into my solution for my coco seedlings, 2 of them didnt seem to like it, the rest are thriving, but what I dont understand is why its not a dark green that eventually leads to a burn, they are just a normal green and then they have some slightly droopy spots with a few burns along the edges... perhaps its an OD of a different nutrient, the base nutes are Home and garden Cocos A B. I used plain tap water, some people advice against this and others say its actually good to use because of the trace minerals like calcium... Could it be chlorine burns? My next mix will be done with water that I let sit out for a few days to evapourate the chlorine, does anyone have any insight into this?

Heres the pictures even though you cant see much, there are some small browned areas along the edges of the leaves.


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## nick17gar (Dec 24, 2011)

calicatt79 said:


> hey there, I wanted to send along some pics of a abundance of nitrogen. I accidentally spilled about a 1/4 cup of blood meal into the dirt of my little baby. She's 8 weeks old now and still hasn't fully recovered. She is getting ready to begin flowering in about 2 weeks and is very dark green towards the bottom but getting lighter at the top! I haven't given her any more blood meal since  The larger lower fan leaves are getting kind of stiff and look like they are drying up a bit. Do you think she'll make it? I sure do hope so
> )View attachment 1948126View attachment 1948127View attachment 1948127


will she make it? yea they will be fine, thankfully, nitrogen is really forgiving, perhaps because the plant uses so much of it. i went a lil heavy on the nitrogen and got a patch of dark, mangled leaves, and a few weeks later the new growth was fine.


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## nick17gar (Dec 24, 2011)

Thedillestpickle said:


> I may have a put a bit too much nutes into my solution for my coco seedlings, 2 of them didnt seem to like it, the rest are thriving, but what I dont understand is why its not a dark green that eventually leads to a burn, they are just a normal green and then they have some slightly droopy spots with a few burns along the edges... perhaps its an OD of a different nutrient, the base nutes are Home and garden Cocos A B. I used plain tap water, some people advice against this and others say its actually good to use because of the trace minerals like calcium... Could it be chlorine burns? My next mix will be done with water that I let sit out for a few days to evapourate the chlorine, does anyone have any insight into this?
> 
> Heres the pictures even though you cant see much, there are some small browned areas along the edges of the leaves. View attachment 1948528View attachment 1948529


the issue i see here, is age. when a plant is that small/young, a slight inbalance can have serious consequences. when mine are under 6inches (and sometimes up to a foot) i try to limit the feedings (and nutrient strengths) as much as possible. a lil stretch, a lil slower growth, whatever are both bad, but not as bad as an abundance/toxicity from a chemical. and yea leave the water out for a few days, chlorine can/will do lots of bad things, and chances are your tap water has more than just chlorine, but chloramine, ammonia, flouride... most of this will evaporate off within 2-3 days.


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## nick17gar (Dec 24, 2011)

welshsmoker said:


> im glad i made this a sticky.


so am i. i smile everytime i log in and see more people have 'liked' it.


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## nick17gar (Dec 24, 2011)

IntrepidTraveler420 said:


> Very clear explanation and good photos. I just wanted to add in to the 2nd post and chart of PH. For soil with organics you should not be PHing your water and instead using dolomite lime and humus. I was adding like 30ml PH up to my earth juice tea and experienced a wide variety of deficiencies. Just my 2 cents


yea dolomite lime is great, its has a strong pH. i dont mean its a 1 or a 14, but that its a buffer. it takes a lot to counter-act the pH from lime.
either way, always check pH of water im pouring in, and every so often i check the pH of the runoff. if your sticking 6.5pH water in and runoff is like 5.0 or 8.3 or something, you know theres an issue.

--
and im gonna go out on a limb here, and say this, and probably get negative comments (lol) but ive done both, hydro and soil, and hydro is a PAIN to set up... but its sooooo much easier down the line. no dirt. no runoff to check. no worm casings, or bat poop or bone meal. i dunno. seemed to me like after that first week of getting it perfect, the right temps, and pH and drip speed and everything, the rest was pretty much just check it, and wait. i might go back to DWC.


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## Thedillestpickle (Dec 24, 2011)

nick17gar said:


> the issue i see here, is age. when a plant is that small/young, a slight inbalance can have serious consequences. when mine are under 6inches (and sometimes up to a foot) i try to limit the feedings (and nutrient strengths) as much as possible. a lil stretch, a lil slower growth, whatever are both bad, but not as bad as an abundance/toxicity from a chemical. and yea leave the water out for a few days, chlorine can/will do lots of bad things, and chances are your tap water has more than just chlorine, but chloramine, ammonia, flouride... most of this will evaporate off within 2-3 days.


Thanks for the assessment, its been a few days now and everything is good with the plants, I can still see some of the damage that was done to the older leaves but its like 4% total damage so Im not worried at all, and the top of the plant is thriving now. I will let my tap water sit for a few days from now on, did that on the last watering too. If I use tap water do I get calcium AND magnesium or just calcium? seems like its almost better to just use tap water than to have to buy a RO filter and then bump up it up again with Cal/Mag. I guess you dont know what the cal/mag content of my towns water is but just as a general rule of thumb? I figure the guys at the hydro store would have brought this up anyways if it was needed but just double checking. Thanks.


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## nick17gar (Dec 26, 2011)

Thedillestpickle said:


> Thanks for the assessment, its been a few days now and everything is good with the plants, I can still see some of the damage that was done to the older leaves but its like 4% total damage so Im not worried at all, and the top of the plant is thriving now. I will let my tap water sit for a few days from now on, did that on the last watering too. If I use tap water do I get calcium AND magnesium or just calcium? seems like its almost better to just use tap water than to have to buy a RO filter and then bump up it up again with Cal/Mag. I guess you dont know what the cal/mag content of my towns water is but just as a general rule of thumb? I figure the guys at the hydro store would have brought this up anyways if it was needed but just double checking. Thanks.


i use a mix between tap water, and water that my AC unit drains out (kinda like unfiltered RO water?) either way, i still let the tap water sit out. and i still stick nutrients in it. you want calcium AND mag, yes. another tip i heard was a buddy filters his water using a Brita filter thing, then adds in all the nutes. seems kinda 'elitist' to me but whatever. 
i have no idea the levels of crap in water in any town ive lived in. thats why i add in nutes til i see a lil over-ferting, then cut back a bit. i also have a lot of plants (30ish?) so i mess with them, over water one, under water another, over fert one, underfert another. and see how they react. im mean to them. but its ok cuz if one gets stunted, or dies, im like "hm, note to self, dont do that again" and still have plenty more. =)


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## Thedillestpickle (Dec 26, 2011)

nick17gar said:


> i use a mix between tap water, and water that my AC unit drains out (kinda like unfiltered RO water?) either way, i still let the tap water sit out. and i still stick nutrients in it. you want calcium AND mag, yes. another tip i heard was a buddy filters his water using a Brita filter thing, then adds in all the nutes. seems kinda 'elitist' to me but whatever.
> i have no idea the levels of crap in water in any town ive lived in. thats why i add in nutes til i see a lil over-ferting, then cut back a bit. i also have a lot of plants (30ish?) so i mess with them, over water one, under water another, over fert one, underfert another. and see how they react. im mean to them. but its ok cuz if one gets stunted, or dies, im like "hm, note to self, dont do that again" and still have plenty more. =)


thats good to do that as long as you have enough plants. Im doing a bit of experimenting/self educating by experimenting with different nute levels and different ratios of my A+B formula. I am doing a 2/3 A to 1/3 B test on half of the plants right now. I also did a 6.3Ph in hydro to see what nute lockout looked like. it was pretty obvious so I just switched back to normal Ph. 5.3Ph didnt seem to do anything so it seems lower Ph is pretty safe at least for a short term. Im actually amazed at how much variation I can give them without seeing any differences. I did 1 plant at 450ppm and another at 950 and the results were pretty close. just shows you how big of a window you have to work with. Doing the 950 test showed me that my plants were ready for 950+ppm so that helped me there. 

You use the drain water from your AC? Im not sure what effect that would have on a plant... theres not going to be any "nutes" in that water thats for sure.. itll have a very low ppm... BUT what about all the pollen/bacteria/yeast/spores/dust/dead skin...etc that is going to be in the water. I know I personally wouldnt want to drink it! when the water condenses on the cold expanded freon filled tubes inside the AC I am sure it takes with it alot of the junk thats in the air. Then again mold spores and yeasts will be killed in the process of becoming saturated. Maybe its harmless afterall, just something to consider


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## calicatt79 (Dec 27, 2011)

Thanks nick


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## nick17gar (Dec 30, 2011)

Thedillestpickle said:


> thats good to do that as long as you have enough plants. Im doing a bit of experimenting/self educating by experimenting with different nute levels and different ratios of my A+B formula. I am doing a 2/3 A to 1/3 B test on half of the plants right now. I also did a 6.3Ph in hydro to see what nute lockout looked like. it was pretty obvious so I just switched back to normal Ph. 5.3Ph didnt seem to do anything so it seems lower Ph is pretty safe at least for a short term. Im actually amazed at how much variation I can give them without seeing any differences. I did 1 plant at 450ppm and another at 950 and the results were pretty close. just shows you how big of a window you have to work with. Doing the 950 test showed me that my plants were ready for 950+ppm so that helped me there.
> 
> You use the drain water from your AC? Im not sure what effect that would have on a plant... theres not going to be any "nutes" in that water thats for sure.. itll have a very low ppm... BUT what about all the pollen/bacteria/yeast/spores/dust/dead skin...etc that is going to be in the water. I know I personally wouldnt want to drink it! when the water condenses on the cold expanded freon filled tubes inside the AC I am sure it takes with it alot of the junk thats in the air. Then again mold spores and yeasts will be killed in the process of becoming saturated. Maybe its harmless afterall, just something to consider



yea i dunno, i saw a video on youtube where a dude had a 10k watt gro and he used the AC water. its really not that dirty when it comes out. atleast not that i can tell. either way, where i am (HUMID AS FUCK), it makes about 15gallons of water a day, so anything in there is probably really diluted, and im sure theres less crap in my air then in the public water! and theres certainly no chlorine/flouride/or whatever. either way, ive been mixing it at 3/4 ac water, and 1/4th tap water or so, and adding in nutes. the plants seems to love it. i do clean the filter often in the AC unit, so as long as the plants are thriving, no worries i guess. pollen? not an issue if its not pot pollen, bacteria? eh, not worried. yeast spores? i got a fungus/rot/mold killer i use at a weak strength every so often for preventative care, and dust/deadskin...? thats gonna make its way onto the plants anyways right?

i heard of a guy that sticks buckets outside during thunderstorms too, i guess the lightning does something where it ionizes the water and makes it great for plants. i, on the other hand, dont wait around for a thunderstorm to stock up on water. thats a lil much. 

and yea they are resistant. i had a light fall on one, broke ALL branches to one side of it, the remaining branches spread out to cover the gap left behind, and now its the thickest biggest bushiest plant i have. thankfully i heard the light fall, and got 6 clones out of the disaster.


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## Thedillestpickle (Dec 30, 2011)

All of the stuff in my list is gunna be touching the plants anyways, but it would sortof be a concentration in that water. I wouldnt want to drink someones evaporated sweat, even if I am already breathing it. but Im not a plant either so its hard to say. I guess most of the really harmfull stuff actually gets killed as soon as it touches the wet/cold AC anyways so it should be fine. I wish I had an infinite amount of plants so I could run tests on all these different variables, who knows, AC water might be the best water around for plants. thundstorms release airborn nitrogen, sounds kinda hokey pokey lol 

is there anything wrong with using tap water at 150ppm Ph 7.6 ?
its what Ive been using, evaporated overnight in a tub.


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## mcbeer6 (Jan 1, 2012)

This is the BEST advice I've seen so far. Thanks!


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## nick17gar (Jan 1, 2012)

mcbeer6 said:


> This is the BEST advice I've seen so far. Thanks!


thanks, and welcome to RIU


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## nick17gar (Jan 1, 2012)

Thedillestpickle said:


> All of the stuff in my list is gunna be touching the plants anyways, but it would sortof be a concentration in that water. I wouldnt want to drink someones evaporated sweat, even if I am already breathing it. but Im not a plant either so its hard to say. I guess most of the really harmfull stuff actually gets killed as soon as it touches the wet/cold AC anyways so it should be fine. I wish I had an infinite amount of plants so I could run tests on all these different variables, who knows, AC water might be the best water around for plants. thundstorms release airborn nitrogen, sounds kinda hokey pokey lol
> 
> is there anything wrong with using tap water at 150ppm Ph 7.6 ?
> its what Ive been using, evaporated overnight in a tub.



7.6 is too alkaline (not acidic) for water. at the same time, most nutrients are nitrogen heavy which is acidic. so what ya do is buy a pH test kit, mix up your batch of nutrient soup/water mix in a bottle/bucket and test the ph. as long as you make it the same way everytime, you know that the ph wont change that much (from the first time ya tested it)

also, buying some pH buffer is great. petstores sell stuff called pH Buffer, and they come in different types (for different fish). tropical fish use 7.0 water, so thats an ok bottle to have, in case your ph is crazy... but if your lucky, your petstore has some for african cichlids, which require 6.5pH water. this is the perfect pH for pot in soil. ive used it every watering now for about 2 years, and have never had pH going into my plants vary more than 6.4-6.6, and the runoff is usually 6.2-6.3 seriously, i paid like 8 bucks, i use about a teaspoon per 2 liters of water+nutrients, and ive never had pH issues. its safe for underwater plants, safe for fish, and ive used it up to a week before harvesting (when i usually stop watering anyways) and havent noticed any odd taste. just the taste of success.


*also, tap water... make sure ya leave it out for a few days to settle, and evaporate off the chems**


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## MalcolmMustang (Jan 2, 2012)

awesome thread thanks OP.


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## Thedillestpickle (Jan 3, 2012)

that fishtank Ph buffer sounds cool, Im doing hydro(coco) so I use pH down to bring it to 5.8, I just wanted to see that the water is good from the beginning, I dont know why I mentioned the pH, what I was really meaning to ask was is 150ppm pretty good for tap water? I think its considered acceptable for plants, Ill keep using it for now, but maybe one day I'll fork out the money for an RO filter... maybe...

Ive got two questions about Nutrients. #1 - Ive seen alot of charts and guides such as this that mention Nitrogen toxicity and provide a picture to help identify it, All the pictures Ive seen show a really dark green but otherwise very healthy looking leaf. Whats wrong with having dark green leaves anyways? Ive never seen any pictures of leaves dying from Nitrogen, Im guessing they burn around the edges and the burn works its way in, starting on the lower leaves(Im not sure why I think that, maybe I did see a picture one?). So whats wrong with a green leaf?

Question #2 Ive seen charts and guides such as this that cover all the deficiencies and burns that are common. What I havent seen is an example of Salt toxicity, but this is a problem I hear about endlessly. Everyone is warning me about salt buildups and it sounds like a really shitty thing to have happen to your plants, so Im just wondering what it looks like, how do you know when you have salt buildup issues with your plants. Im guessing your leaves wilt and stems hang towards the ground(dehydration), but I'm not sure because Ive never seen an example. 

Those are my questions, thanks for reading


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## nick17gar (Jan 4, 2012)

nitrogen toxicity begins with a dark green leaf ya, thats a slight abundance, it then moves on to curling the leaf tips downwards, and curls the leaves. eventually, it stuns growths. dark green isnt bad, its what comes after thats bad.

Salt toxicity is burns, its like a pH imbalance mixed with overferting of everything. theres spots on the leaves, the edges, the tips are all burnt. you cant really show pics of salt toxicity becuase usually the salts are complex mixes of too much of lots of elements (which make up the salt). you gotta remember, a 'salt' is the mixture of an acidic and an alkaline substance. seeing as how theres lots of each, the mixes are near endless. table salt (NaCl) is just the one we are used to seeing everywhere. but mixing nitrogen (acid) with something else the plants need (some base, i dunno what they are) create a salt. the key is to keep the amount of salt low enough that the plant can use them, and the rest is in the runoff. we need salt to survive, but a certain amount. think of it as 'trace element' # 17


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## Thedillestpickle (Jan 4, 2012)

nick17gar said:


> nitrogen toxicity begins with a dark green leaf ya, thats a slight abundance, it then moves on to curling the leaf tips downwards, and curls the leaves. eventually, it stuns growths. dark green isnt bad, its what comes after thats bad.
> 
> Salt toxicity is burns, its like a pH imbalance mixed with overferting of everything. theres spots on the leaves, the edges, the tips are all burnt. you cant really show pics of salt toxicity becuase usually the salts are complex mixes of too much of lots of elements (which make up the salt). you gotta remember, a 'salt' is the mixture of an acidic and an alkaline substance. seeing as how theres lots of each, the mixes are near endless. table salt (NaCl) is just the one we are used to seeing everywhere. but mixing nitrogen (acid) with something else the plants need (some base, i dunno what they are) create a salt. the key is to keep the amount of salt low enough that the plant can use them, and the rest is in the runoff. we need salt to survive, but a certain amount. think of it as 'trace element' # 17



Ok thanks for the answers, that helps alot. On more questions since I love questions-

Do plants dislike ppm changes? If I were to water with 1000ppm for 3 waterings and then water with straight water for the 4th water(Im using coco), the straight water should help lower my salt buildup, but obviously there will be less nutrients available for about 2 or 3 days. When I go back to 1000ppm am I going to shock the plant by suddenly bringing the ppm back up? This would be the easiest way to control salt buildup I can think of, as long as its not hard on the plants

Thanks alot for the help, sounds like Nitrogen leads to the "Claw"


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## bigrodz (Jan 5, 2012)

Hello, I just started growing and have 2 plants that are about 2 and 1/2 months old. Ive just been watering them and putting a few drops of Superthrive in with it. They were doing ok but ever since i went from fluorescent to hps (400watt) lights they have been going the other way. Temps do get a bit high in the grow area 93 highest, So i started leaving the door open. Still they seem lacking something . Both are close to 33 inches tall, but one has stopped veging almost. Lots of yellowing lower leaves. What I need to know is whats the best Nuts i can use and for what stages. This is my first grow so any and all help is appreciated. And when should a adjust the time and make them flower (normally) when they are healthy. Im thinking of going back to just fluorescent T5 lights becoz they were doing much better then. The room is a closet about 5 x 3 ft. thanks all.


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## dannyboy602 (Jan 7, 2012)

how did i miss this thread? nice work. ima copy this and spread the love...rep to you nick17gar


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## brownie360 (Jan 10, 2012)

this lil chart and nick17s poster thing totally hit the spot...i been reading online fer days tryn to figure my shit out[iron def]......thanx alot guys


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## nick17gar (Jan 10, 2012)

bigrodz said:


> Hello, I just started growing and have 2 plants that are about 2 and 1/2 months old. Ive just been watering them and putting a few drops of Superthrive in with it. They were doing ok but ever since i went from fluorescent to hps (400watt) lights they have been going the other way. Temps do get a bit high in the grow area 93 highest, So i started leaving the door open. Still they seem lacking something . Both are close to 33 inches tall, but one has stopped veging almost. Lots of yellowing lower leaves. What I need to know is whats the best Nuts i can use and for what stages. This is my first grow so any and all help is appreciated. And when should a adjust the time and make them flower (normally) when they are healthy. Im thinking of going back to just fluorescent T5 lights becoz they were doing much better then. The room is a closet about 5 x 3 ft. thanks all.



Um well 93 degrees is way too hot. plants really dont like anything over 85.
Closets: bad for air circulation, try to leave the doors open, i flower in closets, and that helps a lot
Lower leaves turning yellow: lack of nitrogen (usually)
remember, the bigger they are the more water they need.

and when to switch to flower? thats up to you, but before they have reached half the height of the closet - height of light + a few inches. What do i mean? i mean say your closet is 100 inches (i dunno, im just picking a nice round number). then say your light system is about 10 inches from top to bottom, and your need space between the light + plants, for HID lamps, probably a foot? so that means your down to 78 inches for plant + container. say the pot is 1 foot tall, thats 68 inches left. so.... the MAX height of the plant BEFORE going into flower can be 34 inches (expecting a double in size with flowering) keep in mind, they can triple in size. they can also not stretch more than 5 inches or so if the change of lighting is slow (24/0 -> 20/4 -> 16/8 -> 12/12), and you also have LST available. personally, mine used to triple in size, now i take more time going from 24/0->12/12 and i tie them down like...i dunno, i dont tie anything down really (other then my gf, but thats a dif story). either way, now i get them to around 4ft, and when i switch them to flower, they end up around 6ft. so it really depends how ya do it

@dannyboy602, @brownie360, Thanks! who knew with a big nug and lots of boredom, i could write/start this thread? i still read the first 2 posts often when i forget what this is or that is so i made sure to include as much detail as possible =)


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## Jimmyjonestoo (Jan 11, 2012)

Great thread man + Rep. What's the best way to fix an iron deficiency?


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## MalcolmMustang (Jan 12, 2012)

Jimmyjonestoo said:


> Great thread man + Rep. What's the best way to fix an iron deficiency?


The only way to fix it is with an iron based fert that I know of. As far as preventing it, avoid having multiple big airstones in your water supply for a long period of time. While you blow the chlorine out of your water the iron is also removed. Keep in mind that could be what is causing it if you are already using hard water.


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## nick17gar (Jan 12, 2012)

yea the other thing is to buy a fertilizer with iron(Fe) in it.

phosphorus also locks out iron, too much phophorus results in low iron. a high pH lowers iron as well. also soil with clay is iron deficient. soil usually has iron in it. if your sure everything is ok, but iron remains low, change out your soil, fresh it up by adding new soil to the old soil, or throw out the old stuff, onto your lawn or something, and go with all fresh soil. (like how farmers rotate crops, they give the soil time to get the minerals back in it)


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## xMOONx (Jan 12, 2012)

*I posted these pics on 1/9 on another thread but thought it might help some of the new growers. I only used Humate Supreme tablets & Humate tea on these girls an I'v had "NO PROBLEMS" from start to in bloom now. This is so simple & easy to use (with awesome results)--I will never use anything else. (Saved me lots money too) Hope this helps some of you.  I only use CFL for VEG & Bloom.

http://www.humatesupreme.com/store/index.php/humate-supreme/humate-supreme.html

1/9/12
Here are some pics of my WW girls I put on 12/12 yesterday after 7 wks VEG. Only thing I used on them was 1 Humate Supreme tablet (all organic) each plant & watered with Humate Tea. I gave them another HS tab yesterday--hope works as well as first 7 weeks.

 *


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## BlueB (Jan 12, 2012)

Could someone please tell me what the problem with this plant is? It mainly happens on older leaves, then they fall off eventually.


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## nick17gar (Jan 12, 2012)

BlueB said:


> Could someone please tell me what the problem with this plant is?  It mainly happens on older leaves, then they fall off eventually.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



thats interesting. the whiteness of those spots makes me wanna scratch my head. do you foliar feed? do you spray water on the plants? if so, then thats light burn, the water acts as a magnifying glass and the light is killing them

whats the pH? and light set up ya got going? what do you feed them


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## nick17gar (Jan 12, 2012)

BlueB said:


> Could someone please tell me what the problem with this plant is?  It mainly happens on older leaves, then they fall off eventually.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



thats interesting. the whiteness of those spots makes me wanna scratch my head. do you foliar feed? do you spray water on the plants? if so, then thats light burn, the water acts as a magnifying glass and the light is killing them

whats the pH? and light set up ya got going? what do you feed them


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## Jimmyjonestoo (Jan 12, 2012)

Any ideas? 4 weeks into flower still getting a little nitrogen so I don't think that's it. Maybe zinc?  Starts at the tip and works inward. Tips are burnt and curled up. I looked at all the pictures and charts but having a hard time matching it to one.


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## nick17gar (Jan 12, 2012)

tips are going up? thats usually pH inbalance or heat. is the entire plant that yellow? and yea in flower, it could be nitrogen becuase most flower nutes dont have N in them, or very very little, but it could be a micro nute


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## BlueB (Jan 12, 2012)

nick17gar said:


> thats interesting. the whiteness of those spots makes me wanna scratch my head. do you foliar feed? do you spray water on the plants? if so, then thats light burn, the water acts as a magnifying glass and the light is killing them
> 
> whats the pH? and light set up ya got going? what do you feed them


No, I don't foliar feed. They are in soil and I water them with 1 gallon of RO water that has 2.5mL Protek Silica, 5mL Microblast, 10mL Calmg added to it. Then pH adjusted to 6.5. I've tested the pH of the soil with neutral water and the soil is a little bit high at pH 7.3. That's why I adjust when I water to 6.5. Do you think I should water with 6.0 maybe? I thought it was either pH problem or heat. The only thing is, the tops of the plants look fine and healthy. The whitish yellow splotching is only occuring on the midsection and bottom fan leaves and nowhere else. If it was a pH problem, wouldn't it be occurring on the new growth also?


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## BlueB (Jan 12, 2012)

Jimmyjonestoo said:


> Any ideas? 4 weeks into flower still getting a little nitrogen so I don't think that's it. Maybe zinc? Starts at the tip and works inward. Tips are burnt and curled up. I looked at all the pictures and charts but having a hard time matching it to one.


This is normal for a plant that far into flowering. It's the plant's way of using up the nitrogen and other elements before it finishes. If this is happening to the main fan leaves first and your new leaf growth is still green in your buds, then everything is totally normal. In fact, this is what you want towards the end of the flowering stage. Are the tips dried out and papery? Are those leaves starting to fall off? Keep an eye on the leaf color in the buds and new growth, as long as that is green and the buds are developing normally then it is fine. Some strains I've seen all the fan leaves do this eventually so you just cut them off so the buds below can get access to the light. The strain I have does this and the fan leaves will fall off leaving only the buds to swell up and get super huge. Can you post a photo of the buds please?


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## Jimmyjonestoo (Jan 13, 2012)

nick17gar said:


> tips are going up? thats usually pH inbalance or heat. is the entire plant that yellow? and yea in flower, it could be nitrogen becuase most flower nutes dont have N in them, or very very little, but it could be a micro nute


Yes tips are curled upwards only on effected leaves tho and no its not the whole plant. I've been adding a little fish emulsion during flowering for nitrogen which is what makes me say I don't think its that. Very well could be a Ph problem I suppose. Im out of test strips so ill try and check that soon.
Edit: and I know its not heat I've got that under control.


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## Jimmyjonestoo (Jan 13, 2012)

BlueB said:


> This is normal for a plant that far into flowering. It's the plant's way of using up the nitrogen and other elements before it finishes. If this is happening to the main fan leaves first and your new leaf growth is still green in your buds, then everything is totally normal. In fact, this is what you want towards the end of the flowering stage. Are the tips dried out and papery? Are those leaves starting to fall off? Keep an eye on the leaf color in the buds and new growth, as long as that is green and the buds are developing normally then it is fine. Some strains I've seen all the fan leaves do this eventually so you just cut them off so the buds below can get access to the light. The strain I have does this and the fan leaves will fall off leaving only the buds to swell up and get super huge. Can you post a photo of the buds please?


Its a ten week strain so not even halfway through making me think it's not normal end of cycle yellowing. Yes the tips of affected leaves appear burnt and yes almost papery and are falling off after a while. Leaf in my pic I pulled off. Bud growth and new leaves appear normal to me. Ill get a couple more pics up in a bit when lights come on.


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## Jimmyjonestoo (Jan 13, 2012)

Ok so here's a couple more pictures hope they help I know they aren't the best quality. Thanks for the input. Grandaddy haze day 32 in soil under 1000 hps. Fed microblast, morbloom, and fish emulsions. Temps never get above 80 but being winter night time temps get a little low. On our coldest day of the year so far night temp dropped to 55.


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## BlueB (Jan 13, 2012)

Jimmyjonestoo said:


> Ok so here's a couple more pictures hope they help I know they aren't the best quality. Thanks for the input. Grandaddy haze day 32 in soil under 1000 hps. Fed microblast, morbloom, and fish emulsions. Temps never get above 80 but being winter night time temps get a little low. On our coldest day of the year so far night temp dropped to 55.


Ya Mon,
Those buds look totally normal. I would say that you are doing everything right, they look just fine. NOW COULD SOMEONE PLEASE TELL ME WHAT MY PLANT PROBLEM IS? I posted a photo of a leaf on the last page. The tiger stripped leaf pattern on my leaves has got me really concerned and it really seems like it should be easily identifiable. BTW, the plant is only 1 week into flower. PLEASE HELP!


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## Jimmyjonestoo (Jan 13, 2012)

BlueB said:


> Ya Mon,
> Those buds look totally normal. I would say that you are doing everything right, they look just fine. NOW COULD SOMEONE PLEASE TELL ME WHAT MY PLANT PROBLEM IS? I posted a photo of a leaf on the last page. The tiger stripped leaf pattern on my leaves has got me really concerned and it really seems like it should be easily identifiable. BTW, the plant is only 1 week into flower. PLEASE HELP!


Thanks. Wish I could help with your problem. I've only seen that kind of spotting from bugs or light burn but you said you don't spray so its weird.


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## perkele (Jan 14, 2012)

hi, any ideas on what can this be? I've excluded the possibility of any bugs. Please advice 
View attachment 1997280View attachment 1997281View attachment 1997283 And how can this be treated? ( general info: unknown seed, day 74 with 25 into flowering, lights CFL's,soil  and from 2 to 2 weeks 3 cups of  for more https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/496280-perkeles-growing-journal-first-plant-20.html ) Thanks


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## nick17gar (Jan 14, 2012)

Jimmyjonestoo said:


> Ok so here's a couple more pictures hope they help I know they aren't the best quality. Thanks for the input. Grandaddy haze day 32 in soil under 1000 hps. Fed microblast, morbloom, and fish emulsions. Temps never get above 80 but being winter night time temps get a little low. On our coldest day of the year so far night temp dropped to 55.


you seem ok dude. a litte yellowing at that stage is fine


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## nick17gar (Jan 14, 2012)

perkele said:


> hi, any ideas on what can this be? I've excluded the possibility of any bugs. Please advice
> View attachment 1997280View attachment 1997281View attachment 1997283 And how can this be treated? ( general info: unknown seed, day 74 with 25 into flowering, lights CFL's,soil View attachment 1997285 and from 2 to 2 weeks 3 cups of View attachment 1997286 for more https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/496280-perkeles-growing-journal-first-plant-20.html ) Thanks


thats a nute deficiency if your 100% sure its not bugs, magnesium (my guess), or phosphorus.
could be pH being off, could be water droplets on the leaves burning a hole on them (not as likely)


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## perkele (Jan 15, 2012)

nick17gar said:


> thats a nute deficiency if your 100% sure its not bugs, magnesium (my guess), or phosphorus.
> could be pH being off, could be water droplets on the leaves burning a hole on them (not as likely)


Leaves burning...I don't think so, I understand at what you are thinking, I am not misting the leaves. pH is always and it has always been between 6.5 and 7. Phosphorus...I hope not. I am feeding her the MG juice and it has phosphorus in it...the water I am using is still water with 5.5 the pH. Might be the Mg. I have some epsom salt and I will use it on my next watering. And magnesium is the one that is starting from the middle of the plant, isn't it? cause the affected leaves are from the middle. 

Thank you for your reply!


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## nick17gar (Jan 15, 2012)

well i dont think its over ferting, overferting usually appears on the leaf tips / serrated edges. 

yes, magnesium/calcium deficiency (usually) starts all over the leaves, as speckled spots of death, death by starvation, not overfeeding.

are you in soil? 5.5 ph is too low. if your adding 6.5-7ph water, and the runoff is 5.5, that could be a sign of something in the soil that can/is causing trouble. my last watering went in at 6.8 and came out at 6.4


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## perkele (Jan 15, 2012)

nick17gar said:


> well i dont think its over ferting, overferting usually appears on the leaf tips / serrated edges.
> 
> yes, magnesium/calcium deficiency (usually) starts all over the leaves, as speckled spots of death, death by starvation, not overfeeding.
> 
> are you in soil? 5.5 ph is too low. if your adding 6.5-7ph water, and the runoff is 5.5, that could be a sign of something in the soil that can/is causing trouble. my last watering went in at 6.8 and came out at 6.4


6.5-7 is the pH in the soil. I'll water it tomorrow with some epsom salt as well and I'll see what will be. Thanks for the advices


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## Jimmyjonestoo (Jan 15, 2012)

nick17gar said:


> you seem ok dude. a litte yellowing at that stage is fine


Awsome. Thanks for the input man.


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## BlueB (Jan 15, 2012)

After flushing, all your fan leaves should be totally yellow. ^Bump^ my plant issue!


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## Thedillestpickle (Jan 15, 2012)

BlueB said:


> After flushing, all your fan leaves should be totally yellow. ^Bump^ my plant issue!


Could it be Calcium deficiency? you can't expect your leaves to look exactly like the ones in the photo. Let me know when you find out what it is though because I have one leaf that looks just like that(one leaf out of 10 plants so im not too worried)


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## BuddGreen (Jan 17, 2012)

*
Thanks for the info. My Veg always goes good.
But the leaves curl durring mid to late bloom.
I'm using Technaflora BC Nutes @ 1/3 strength in Veg.
1/3 then up to 2/3 for the last half.
I keep the nute pH @ 6.0 in soil.
This round I'm going to try the nutes @ 1/2 to see what happens??? 

*​


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## m4s73r (Jan 23, 2012)

I just wanted to stop by and Say THANK YOU. Hands down one of the best threads Ive seen on this subject. As a new grower doing research, this cleared up most of questions on what to look for in deficiency situations, Thanks again!!


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## Druid23 (Jan 24, 2012)

hi, im new to this site and a first time grower. i looked everywhere and cant figure out what deficiency im looking at. im growing 3 jock horror plants in a scrog. 3 gal pots in roots organic 707 soil, botanicare pure blend veg and flowering nute. lights are 2 pro grow 260 led. im in the 5th week of flowering and did not notice a stretch which i think is weird since sativas are suppose to be stretchy. i was doing half veg half flower nutes for the transition stage till i went with a full dose of flowering is when the deficiency really kicked in. maybe sulfur deficiency? any help would be greatly appreciated.


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## nick17gar (Jan 25, 2012)

Druid23 said:


> hi, im new to this site and a first time grower. i looked everywhere and cant figure out what deficiency im looking at. im growing 3 jock horror plants in a scrog. 3 gal pots in roots organic 707 soil, botanicare pure blend veg and flowering nute. lights are 2 pro grow 260 led. im in the 5th week of flowering and did not notice a stretch which i think is weird since sativas are suppose to be stretchy. i was doing half veg half flower nutes for the transition stage till i went with a full dose of flowering is when the deficiency really kicked in. maybe sulfur deficiency? any help would be greatly appreciated.View attachment 2017829View attachment 2017828View attachment 2017827View attachment 2017856



hey man, welcome to RIU first of all.

Your leaves show necrosis that appear to begin at the central vein. the only thing (i know) that does that is phosphorus deficiency. your plants also in flower, a time when it needs a lot of phosphorus. calcium/mag deficiencies are usually spots all over the leaves, other deficiencies show around the tips/edges. 

id add a bit of phosphorus. if thats what it is, your really really low on it. for flowering, i also up the micro nutes a bit, kind of a preventative type care.

from experience, sativas grow up, and indicas grow sideways. but stretch is a matter of light. both will stretch with inadequate light. i wouldnt worry about it not growing if everything else is ok.

whats the NPK ratios on those 2 nutrients your using?


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## nick17gar (Jan 25, 2012)

m4s73r said:


> I just wanted to stop by and Say THANK YOU. Hands down one of the best threads Ive seen on this subject. As a new grower doing research, this cleared up most of questions on what to look for in deficiency situations, Thanks again!!


thanks, i appreciate it.


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## Druid23 (Jan 25, 2012)

The veg is 3-2-4 and flowering 2-3-5 its all organic. Won't a phosphorus def. show on the tips/edges of the leaf? And even though this happens after I gave 1 tbsp per gal of the flowering nutes it can still not have enough phosphorus? Do you think i might do more harm if i add alittle epson salt with the added phosphorus? Thank you for replying and thank you for the welcome.


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## nick17gar (Jan 25, 2012)

usually it shows it on the middles first, and yea it could be P deficiency. 2-3-5 and 3-2-4 both seem a little low.

 

try searching around different stores for their fertilizers/nutrients. the NPK ratios and trace elements vary a lot. i use a mix of 4 different bottles to get the right blend that i want. but i end up with around 7-3-3 for veg and 3-7-7 for flowering.


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## Druid23 (Jan 25, 2012)

I'll take a look around thank you for the advice very much Appreciated


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## BlueB (Jan 25, 2012)

Druid23 said:


> hi, im new to this site and a first time grower. i looked everywhere and cant figure out what deficiency im looking at. im growing 3 jock horror plants in a scrog. 3 gal pots in roots organic 707 soil, botanicare pure blend veg and flowering nute. lights are 2 pro grow 260 led. im in the 5th week of flowering and did not notice a stretch which i think is weird since sativas are suppose to be stretchy. i was doing half veg half flower nutes for the transition stage till i went with a full dose of flowering is when the deficiency really kicked in. maybe sulfur deficiency? any help would be greatly appreciated.View attachment 2017829View attachment 2017828View attachment 2017827View attachment 2017856


You can also get a phosphorus deficiency when the plant is root bound or over watered. I always try to transplant right before flipping the light to 12/12. Don't always assume that your deficiency is related to the amount of ferts you are giving. Usually a fert deficiency is going to show up slowly. If your plant is root bound that will present it self more rapidly.


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## nick17gar (Jan 26, 2012)

BlueB said:


> You can also get a phosphorus deficiency when the plant is root bound or over watered. I always try to transplant right before flipping the light to 12/12. Don't always assume that your deficiency is related to the amount of ferts you are giving. Usually a fert deficiency is going to show up slowly. If your plant is root bound that will present it self more rapidly.


true. deficiencies are slow movers. another possible cuase for quick decay could be a screwy pH, salt build up, etc... check the roots, if they arent root bound something else is going on. how quickly did the splotches appear on the leaves?


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## Druid23 (Jan 27, 2012)

It seemed right away. How do I check if it's root bound? If I take one finger and move just alittle dirt there are nice big white roots. But the plants are only about 2' tall in 3 gallon pots. update i fed with full flowering nutes at 6.5 ph and i can tell they are loving it. crystals doubled buds got bigger. its funny nubs tend to over do things but i was so cautious that i under fed them


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## nick17gar (Jan 27, 2012)

well the best way to check if rootbound, take them out of the pot carefully and see if it looks like dirt, or a cobweb of roots.


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## nubbis1020 (Jan 28, 2012)

I think I have a Ca deficiency. I have reddish-orange spots on my leaves. They are getting worse. I thought this was an mg deficiency so I started to treat it as such and now it is worse. I am growing in a hydro setup. PH of 5.8 I use fox farm grow big and big bloom for nutrients. I use tap water that I let sit to evaporate the chlorine. Temps are 81 F highest lights on. 70 F lowest lights off. Humidity 65% highest lights on and 70% highest lights off. My NPK for the grow big is 6-4-4 and the big bloom is 0.01-0.3-0.7 I want to say I have been adding too much N, but I can't say for sure. I need help a.s.a.p. and badly. This is my first grow and this problem has been going on for a couple weeks. I feel like I might lose my plant if I can't get this treated correctly. Oh and I am a week and 6 days into flowering.


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## side11 (Jan 28, 2012)

Thanks bro! These charts will help me with my garden. Your other post with all the info is great too! It's growers like you that help the most. As a 100% Disabled Vet who has to grow his own medicine (legally), it helps taking out the guess work. Again thank you.


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## headssstash (Jan 28, 2012)

extremely informative and useful, thank you!


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## nick17gar (Jan 28, 2012)

nubbis1020 said:


> I think I have a Ca deficiency. I have reddish-orange spots on my leaves. They are getting worse. I thought this was an mg deficiency so I started to treat it as such and now it is worse. I am growing in a hydro setup. PH of 5.8 I use fox farm grow big and big bloom for nutrients. I use tap water that I let sit to evaporate the chlorine. Temps are 81 F highest lights on. 70 F lowest lights off. Humidity 65% highest lights on and 70% highest lights off. My NPK for the grow big is 6-4-4 and the big bloom is 0.01-0.3-0.7 I want to say I have been adding too much N, but I can't say for sure. I need help a.s.a.p. and badly. This is my first grow and this problem has been going on for a couple weeks. I feel like I might lose my plant if I can't get this treated correctly. Oh and I am a week and 6 days into flowering.


pics help first of all. 

spots on your leaves? where? all over? tips? centralized on the vein? 

heat seems fine, pH seems fine, humidity is a little high for my taste, but its still ok. 

ow that your in flowering, you should be cutting back on the grow big (still use it just diluted more). what micro nutrients are in the big bloom? other than NPK, it should have some other stuff in it (mag/cal/mg/mn/fe/.....) 

What do the roots look like? are they bright white? or offwhite? brown? is the root length close to the height of the plant? have you cleaned your reservoir? (is there shit caked up on the inside walls like a salt chip of toxic death? have you checked the water pump for good flow and air pump/stones for a good consistency of tiny bubbles? 
lots of questions, but 3 pics would answer them all (one of a leaf close up, another of the plant, another of the roots)


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## nubbis1020 (Jan 28, 2012)

nick17gar said:


> pics help first of all.
> 
> spots on your leaves? where? all over? tips? centralized on the vein?
> 
> ...


The spots are more centralized. Some are near the tips. I just cut out the grow big from my nutrient solution today. For the big bloom, other than small traces of nitrogen, there is small amounts of Phosphate, and soluble potash. My roots are white with a little tint of brown. Nothing dark at all. The root length is pretty good. I'd say close to the plant. I clean my reservoir everytime I add more water and nutrients. There is nothing caked in the reservoir. The water pump is fine, so is the air pump and stones. I will try to get fresh new pics up on here tomorrow as my plant is sleeping and I do not want to disturb her.


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## RedWhiteBlueGreen (Jan 29, 2012)

Very helpful indeed!! thanks very much dude!


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## Schkief (Jan 30, 2012)

can someone elite please take a look at my forum post, its my first auto flower grow and i posted it a day ago and no ones replied....did i do something wrong? any help would be awesome!
my post is under
DIY bubblicious autoflowers


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## nubbis1020 (Jan 30, 2012)

nick17gar: I answered your questions above on the page and here are a few pictures.


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## nick17gar (Jan 30, 2012)

nubbis1020 said:


> The spots are more centralized. Some are near the tips. I just cut out the grow big from my nutrient solution today. For the big bloom, other than small traces of nitrogen, there is small amounts of Phosphate, and soluble potash. My roots are white with a little tint of brown. Nothing dark at all. The root length is pretty good. I'd say close to the plant. I clean my reservoir everytime I add more water and nutrients. There is nothing caked in the reservoir. The water pump is fine, so is the air pump and stones. I will try to get fresh new pics up on here tomorrow as my plant is sleeping and I do not want to disturb her.


phosphate: a salt of phosphoric acid. PO4. basically, its phosphorus and oxygen. Potash is a water soluble potassium. basically, you got some PK i there, and your plants need micro nutes. overall the plant looks healthy, but investing
a few bucks in a good bottle of micro nutes would go a long way. perhaps something else with a high phosphorus percentage (not just for flowering, but early seedlings/clones), i wouldnt worry and freak out. just go get some other bottles of goodies. im a big fan of getting 3-5 bottles, each from various vendors, and mixing them. it takes a little more diluting til ya get the mix right, but it ensures that micro nute deficiencies are rare. 

ive written it a bunch too, theres stuff at petstores for fish tank plants. in about 2 minutes i found this stuff, 15 bucks a bottle and contains: Total Nitrogen 0.07%, Available Phosphate ( P2O5) 0.01%, Soluble Potash 0.37%, Calcium (Ca) 0.14%, Magnesium (Mg) 0.11%, Sulfur (S) 0.2773%, Boron (B) 0.009%, Chlorine (Cl) 1.15%, Cobalt (Co) 0.0004%, Copper (Cu) 0.0001%, Iron (Fe) 0.32%, Manganese (Mn) 0.0118%, Molybdenum (Mo) 0.0009%, Sodium (Na) 0.13%, Zinc (Zn) 0.0007%. <- thats low on NPK but has 12 micro nutes for 15 bucks! ( http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=4368194 ) theres tons of these bottles on the petsmart site, and most of them will work fine (make sure they are for tropical plants, and dilute them a bit more then recommended at the start). ive done this for years and rarely get deficiencies. im usually in a battle between just right and a lil overfed on nitrogen =).

edit: my bottle of this stuff says 1 capful (5ML) for 40 liters. so thats about 1ML for 8 liters. i go kinda heavy (ok apparently really heavy) i do 1ML for 2liters... lol. but it works great! 1ML per 2liter bottle of solution for the plants... the bottle i have, i bought a few months ago and its still over 1/2 full. trust me, its worth every penny of the 10-15 bucks. and its safe for fish to swim around in, so i figure its safe for plants i smoke. ( i do stop using it 2 weeks before harvest, but i havent noticed any odd taste, or tail growing, or wierd side effect)


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## nubbis1020 (Jan 31, 2012)

Thanks for the response. Great advice.


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## AtrophyIntelect (Feb 1, 2012)

my plant totally did that too.. freaked me out...


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## Jay_normous (Feb 10, 2012)

Top top guide.... Thanks..


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## OpiumDream (Feb 11, 2012)

does any one have an idea whats wrong with my plant ?
it's 11 day old , temps are 25-33 celsius , light 24/7.
I grow on balcony (i know stupid place , no other options  ) i open doors twice a day and it's pritty cold outside about 0 celsius , could it be becouse of this ?
i added fertelizer once and it did not helped.
plant is growing very fast.


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## nick17gar (Feb 11, 2012)

OpiumDream said:


> does any one have an idea whats wrong with my plant ?
> it's 11 day old , temps are 25-33 celsius , light 24/7.
> I grow on balcony (i know stupid place , no other options  ) i open doors twice a day and it's pritty cold outside about 0 celsius , could it be becouse of this ?
> i added fertelizer once and it did not helped.
> plant is growing very fast.


plants growing fast.... looks healthy.... why do you think theres something wrong? 

keep it between 20-25degrees c. and try to make the light on 18/6. thats ideal for veg. 24/7 is good but the plants do need some stretch.


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## OpiumDream (Feb 12, 2012)

nick17gar said:


> plants growing fast.... looks healthy.... why do you think theres something wrong?
> 
> keep it between 20-25degrees c. and try to make the light on 18/6. thats ideal for veg. 24/7 is good but the plants do need some stretch.


you think everything is ok with leafs ?
i can't do 18/6 , it's to cold outside, at dark period it will be about 10-12 celsius inside. main reason i choosed auto ak47 is that i can maintin normal temps inside with 24/7.


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## jibbsjuicypeach69 (Feb 12, 2012)

he i need help my plants are under 24/7 light. 1 month old in veg stage, i have them in mg soil, guess they say not to do that. they were fine until a week ago i started noticing brown spots that turn purpleish after a while. i am using techna flora starter kit for success at 1/2 stregnth i started ferts 2 weeks ago. the temp is a steady 73 f and humdity is 63% i have a fan running 24/7 as well. they also get co2 once a day. i water every 3-4 dys with well water at a 7ph. i let the water sit in jugs for a few days before i use it. i test the ph in the runoff and it comes out at 6/6.5 with the exception of 2 that are only around 5ph. im growing kaboom n plushberry supposedly feminized. i have never grown anything before in my life. if any one could please let me know what im doing wrong i would appreciate it.View attachment 2054869View attachment 2054874View attachment 2054876View attachment 2054880View attachment 2054860View attachment 2054862View attachment 2054865


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## nick17gar (Feb 19, 2012)

jibbsjuicypeach69 said:


> he i need help my plants are under 24/7 light. 1 month old in veg stage, i have them in mg soil, guess they say not to do that. they were fine until a week ago i started noticing brown spots that turn purpleish after a while. i am using techna flora starter kit for success at 1/2 stregnth i started ferts 2 weeks ago. the temp is a steady 73 f and humdity is 63% i have a fan running 24/7 as well. they also get co2 once a day. i water every 3-4 dys with well water at a 7ph. i let the water sit in jugs for a few days before i use it. i test the ph in the runoff and it comes out at 6/6.5 with the exception of 2 that are only around 5ph. im growing kaboom n plushberry supposedly feminized. i have never grown anything before in my life. if any one could please let me know what im doing wrong i would appreciate it.View attachment 2054856View attachment 2054869View attachment 2054870View attachment 2054874View attachment 2054876View attachment 2054878View attachment 2054880View attachment 2054858View attachment 2054860View attachment 2054862View attachment 2054865View attachment 2054867


id cut back on all nutrients except nitrogen, and id raise the light a bit. they are very short and bushy, raising the light will promote some stretch. that death spot there is probably overferting, but its not nitrogen (your leaves would be much darker if it was).


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## carlaharris (Mar 16, 2012)

jibbsjuicypeach69 said:


> he i need help my plants are under 24/7 light. 1 month old in veg stage, i have them in mg soil, guess they say not to do that. they were fine until a week ago i started noticing brown spots that turn purpleish after a while. i am using techna flora starter kit for success at 1/2 stregnth i started ferts 2 weeks ago. the temp is a steady 73 f and humdity is 63% i have a fan running 24/7 as well. they also get co2 once a day. i water every 3-4 dys with well water at a 7ph. i let the water sit in jugs for a few days before i use it. i test the ph in the runoff and it comes out at 6/6.5 with the exception of 2 that are only around 5ph. im growing kaboom n plushberry supposedly feminized. i have never grown anything before in my life. if any one could please let me know what im doing wrong i would appreciate it.



I'm having the same issue. I thought my ph was balanced at 5.8 then check it a couple days later and its sitting at 8. When they get like that its not from over feeding its a deficiency of Mg either due to not being enough or a lockout if the ph isnt between 5.-6.5 your going to lockout your nutrients even if they're available. Anyways I bought some ph up/down so I'm going to see how well they respond with it balanced and if the issue hasn't resolved by the end of the week I will give a mg supplement.


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## kamikaza (Mar 16, 2012)

hi guys!!
this is my first grow, DWC 3 plants in one res. 
strain: low rider autoflower, i am 6 weeks since they germinated out of the rockwool. 
nutrients: bio nova hydro supermix, pk 13-14, x-cel, and enzime. all bio nova.
they say on the label of the hydro supermix that if using in soft water area, you have to supplement ca 15.
i am using RO water and couldn't find ca 15 in my country, so i am mixing the reservoir in ratio of 2:1 RO water with nutrient by the instruction they told me, and bottled mineral water, because the main component in tha water is calcium. 80 miligram per liter.
from the very begining i had some nutrients disorder. brown spots on older leaves, yellowing from the center of new leavs, new groth leave curled outward....
PH is between 5.5 and 6.2. evwry 48 hours it drift to 6.2 and i lower it back to 5.5
my question is: is it mag deficiency or calcium deficiency? those brown spots apear on the leaves as they get older, and get worse the older they are.
thanks in advence for answer, and sorry for my poor english


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## BuddGreen (Mar 16, 2012)

Is it me or did a bunch of shit (info) come up missing???


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## Slag121 (Mar 17, 2012)

OUTSTANDING piece of work,
completely concise & right on pix.I can see my misdiagnose on every one.
too think for weeks I thought I had OD'ed them. they are slow & stunted due to a LACk of everything!
Next week will be a better one!
Your The King of Correct!
Slag



nick17gar said:


> yea this info is on here already, some of it is scattered around. some of the info i got from other grow sites.
> 
> half the reason i wrote this was to compile it all onto 1 page for personal reference haha.


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## Slag121 (Mar 17, 2012)

Nick U ROCK!!
I am so printing this & hanging on hte wall nearby.
pix too.
Wonderful.
after all the books & forums, at last just layed out corectly.
thank You,
Slag




nick17gar said:


> yea this info is on here already, some of it is scattered around. some of the info i got from other grow sites.
> 
> half the reason i wrote this was to compile it all onto 1 page for personal reference haha.


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## BuddGreen (Mar 18, 2012)

*
Is this from heat??? I held my hand there for 2 minutes and it seems ok.
Then again, 2 minutes is not 12 hours.

*​


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## allgoodhere1 (Mar 19, 2012)

Nick17, thank you for great info, it is precise, clear and comprehensive. I use your guide to Nutrient deficiency and toxicity as soon as i spot something that I think is not right with my plants and can then fix it. 
Happy growing and


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## nick17gar (Mar 20, 2012)

carlaharris said:


> I'm having the same issue. I thought my ph was balanced at 5.8 then check it a couple days later and its sitting at 8. When they get like that its not from over feeding its a deficiency of Mg either due to not being enough or a lockout if the ph isnt between 5.-6.5 your going to lockout your nutrients even if they're available. Anyways I bought some ph up/down so I'm going to see how well they respond with it balanced and if the issue hasn't resolved by the end of the week I will give a mg supplement.


dolomite lime helps regulate pH, it wont bounce around as much.


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## nick17gar (Mar 20, 2012)

BuddGreen said:


> *
> Is this from heat??? I held my hand there for 2 minutes and it seems ok.
> Then again, 2 minutes is not 12 hours.
> View attachment 2074744
> *​



um... no? that looks like a deficiency to me, some micro nute. eat is where the leaves will end up looking like taco shells. 

anything thats a death spot, necrosis, whatever, is nutrients. too much (bottom edges of leaves), or too little (all other problems)


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## BuddGreen (Mar 20, 2012)

nick17gar said:


> um... no? that looks like a deficiency to me, some micro nute. eat is where the leaves will end up looking like taco shells.
> 
> anything thats a death spot, necrosis, whatever, is nutrients. too much (bottom edges of leaves), or too little (all other problems)




Oh ok, Thanks a lot Nick. The hairs are starting to turn.
That tells me it's around two weeks till harvest
So I'm gonna flush these monsters tonight.
Sticky, Stinky and Solid!!!
*
*​


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## treesnowski (Mar 21, 2012)

BuddGreen your stash looks pretty good, here's something that popped up today in my garden, I'm guessing it's sun burn, I sprayed her down with SPF 30.

And here's a plant that could use some viagra, right? Or is it me?

But seriously, I'm dealing with an ass backwards problem. When the temperature outside gets too cold, my a/c doesn't work, and the sealed room cooks, and the humidity gets up to 80% or so. I should have got a mini split instead of a window banger, or otherwise I could have made an intake and exhaust, and saved a thousand dollars by not purchasing a/c, dehumidifier, co2 tanks, regulator, and ppm controller and prevented daily winter headaches. Running a/c in the winter, and it is still reaching 100* when it's 40* outside. I have to leave my garage wide open with the co2 off to keep the temps down when it's cold outside. But maybe these photos don't show heat stress at all, I don't actually know, so if anyone has answers, let me know. I should have learned to crawl before I tried to run....run into a 10,000 dollar sealed room setup. Oops.


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## Thedillestpickle (Mar 21, 2012)

Hey nick I just watered my plants with 600ppm straight epsom salts into coco. I've been having so much leaf drop yellowing and necrosis it's starting to get scary. If this doesn't fix it I will be back with a bombardment of pictures and questions/info. Hopefully I got it right


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## treesnowski (Mar 21, 2012)

Thedillestpickle said:


> Hey nick I just watered my plants with 600ppm straight epsom salts into coco. I've been having so much leaf drop yellowing and necrosis it's starting to get scary. If this doesn't fix it I will be back with a bombardment of pictures and questions/info. Hopefully I got it right


It sounds like those plants might need some nitrogen.


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## nick17gar (Mar 23, 2012)

treesnowski said:


> BuddGreen your stash looks pretty good, here's something that popped up today in my garden, I'm guessing it's sun burn, I sprayed her down with SPF 30.
> View attachment 2080324
> And here's a plant that could use some viagra, right? Or is it me?View attachment 2080325
> 
> But seriously, I'm dealing with an ass backwards problem. When the temperature outside gets too cold, my a/c doesn't work, and the sealed room cooks, and the humidity gets up to 80% or so. I should have got a mini split instead of a window banger, or otherwise I could have made an intake and exhaust, and saved a thousand dollars by not purchasing a/c, dehumidifier, co2 tanks, regulator, and ppm controller and prevented daily winter headaches. Running a/c in the winter, and it is still reaching 100* when it's 40* outside. I have to leave my garage wide open with the co2 off to keep the temps down when it's cold outside. But maybe these photos don't show heat stress at all, I don't actually know, so if anyone has answers, let me know. I should have learned to crawl before I tried to run....run into a 10,000 dollar sealed room setup. Oops.


dude, you first pic, that looks like bugs man. it looks like they are chomping away on the leaves, between the veins. grab those plants and turn the leaves upside down and check if you see anything moving

the second pic... could be a lot, first id say nitrogen abundance, becuase of the curving of leaves, but no i dont think the plant is dark enough to warrant that. thats gotta be a micro nute deficiency, go thru the list and see which makes it droop, or just add some more of all trace elements and hope it works itself out


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## nick17gar (Mar 23, 2012)

Thedillestpickle said:


> Hey nick I just watered my plants with 600ppm straight epsom salts into coco. I've been having so much leaf drop yellowing and necrosis it's starting to get scary. If this doesn't fix it I will be back with a bombardment of pictures and questions/info. Hopefully I got it right


i dont get it. leaf drop, yellowing, necrosis... so you added epsom salt? post up some pics and lemme see what ya got going on man.


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## st0wandgrow (Mar 24, 2012)

Great thread nick! Very helpful stuff! +rep

After reading through this I think I may have to try some cal/mag. Some of the pictures that are posted, and some of your explanations lead me to believe this is the issue (no pics at the moment). It looks almost like rust on the leaves, which get very brittle and dry. The weird part is that this only happens to one strain I'm working with. I currently have TGA Cheesquake (no issues), GHS The Church (no issues), Serious Seeds Kali Mist (no issues), TGA Jillybean (no issues), but my Serious Seeds Bubblegum looks like hell. It's growing, and otherwise appears OK, but some of the leaves have a ton of necrosis on them.

I'm going to try some epsom salts, and if that doesn't work then I guess I'm stumped!


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## st0wandgrow (Mar 24, 2012)

treesnowski said:


> BuddGreen your stash looks pretty good, here's something that popped up today in my garden, I'm guessing it's sun burn, I sprayed her down with SPF 30.
> View attachment 2080324
> And here's a plant that could use some viagra, right? Or is it me?View attachment 2080325
> 
> But seriously, I'm dealing with an ass backwards problem. When the temperature outside gets too cold, my a/c doesn't work, and the sealed room cooks, and the humidity gets up to 80% or so. I should have got a mini split instead of a window banger, or otherwise I could have made an intake and exhaust, and saved a thousand dollars by not purchasing a/c, dehumidifier, co2 tanks, regulator, and ppm controller and prevented daily winter headaches. Running a/c in the winter, and it is still reaching 100* when it's 40* outside. I have to leave my garage wide open with the co2 off to keep the temps down when it's cold outside. But maybe these photos don't show heat stress at all, I don't actually know, so if anyone has answers, let me know. I should have learned to crawl before I tried to run....run into a 10,000 dollar sealed room setup. Oops.



What type of plant is that in your first pic?

The reason I ask is that a while back I germinated 5 dutch passion master kush seeds, got 4 females, flipped them to 12/12, and about 3 weeks in started noticing some of the leaves on one of the plants getting holes in it, and what appeared to be bite marks. Like a caterpillar was nibbling on the fan leaves or something. I searched that mofo with a fine-tooth comb, and there was nothing. Not a bug in sight. It grew out completely healthy, and was otherwise a very vigorous plant.

I wonder if genetics can play a role in some cases?


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## nick17gar (Mar 24, 2012)

st0wandgrow said:


> I wonder if genetics can play a role in some cases?


yes.

each strain requieres a different balance of food/temp/ph, etc... the goal is to get a good balance where they are all "pretty good". if you focus on making one strain perfect, youve neglected + killed the others... 
i dont freak out if i see a little deficiency, or a little toxicity on one plant, if i go to add/remove that nute, next time its a dif plant with the deficiency/abundance. you just gotta find a happy medium, or spend more time caring for them.

it makes it a lot easier if you have them all labeled, and keep notes. the main thing is deficiencies are somewhat ok, they happen all the time, especially in nature. toxicities really arent ok. best to underfert and over water then the other way around. so dilute a bunch, feed a little, and with some luck, youll get good nugs.


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## jojodancer10 (Mar 26, 2012)

Thanks Nick I read everything in this post and I see my mistake. I am in a ebb&table with coco and not likening it at all.I flood once every 3 hours. LOL tfs is 900 in veg! Kicking myself


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## truckerda (Mar 27, 2012)

i found this chart from another site that might be useful here.


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## treesnowski (Mar 28, 2012)

It's a Super Skunk from Sensi Seeds. I'm sure it's not bugs. I'm still convinced it is from when my room cooked. I installed an intake fan connected to a temp controller, that will only turn on when the a/c fails (when it's too cold for a/c to work). a/c is set to 76* and fan at 85* I also added air cooling. Now with my room modified, I am having perfect control. The temps are easy to manage, I was even able to add two more 1000 watt lights. My main issue I'm trying to solve now is clawed leaves on the Shiva Skunk. First I thought it was from heat stress, but after more research, I'm beginning to think it's nitrogen toxicity. I used Liquid Karma, and I heard that fulvics and humics cause the plants to intake nitrogen better than normal, so maybe that pushed Shiva over the line. I'm also doing White Russian and White Widow, and they each have slight clawing on some leaves on some plants, as do a couple Super Skunks, but mostly this is Shiva's problem. I am now using RO water, 5ml/gal of calmag, and 12.5ml/gal of 2-2-3, no more additives, they might be hurting more than helping.


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## treesnowski (Mar 28, 2012)

the post above is addressing the person who asked what strain the first pic is, I must have not quoted their post properly.


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## Mikeabc (Mar 28, 2012)

thanks for ya help nick
changin the reservoir and leavin the door to the grow closet every once in a while til i put another vent hole in there has help a bunch

here a couple a pics of her now
 
i've done some bendin an tying down to get the light all over the plant an cause the aero garden light only goes but so high

only thing i cant figure out yet is my nute mix
i used 2.ml Growbig, 3.5ml Tigerbloom and 8ml bigbloom so we'll see in a day or so if i got it right this time
oh and thanks for that chart truckerda


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## Dop3yd33 (Mar 28, 2012)

Phosphorus deficiency?! Tried adding small amout of bloom nutes with 2-7-7 NPK ratio and also lowered the PH of the water a bit. It's been a day and it looks like it hasn't spread very much since, but I can't be sure yet. Lemon Skunk fem, 4 weeks (give or take) into flowering.. Any opinions? Thanks


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## nick17gar (Mar 29, 2012)

truckerda said:


> i found this chart from another site that might be useful here.View attachment 2092384



ya this is great, notice: yellow tips = ONLY way to tell if theres overferting!


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## nick17gar (Mar 29, 2012)

Dop3yd33 said:


> Phosphorus deficiency?! Tried adding small amout of bloom nutes with 2-7-7 NPK ratio and also lowered the PH of the water a bit. It's been a day and it looks like it hasn't spread very much since, but I can't be sure yet. Lemon Skunk fem, 4 weeks (give or take) into flowering.. Any opinions? Thanks
> View attachment 2095284View attachment 2095285View attachment 2095286View attachment 2095297


yea add some phosphorus, dont even worry about those 2-3 yellow/dead leaves on the bottom. thats normal. its odd, but now untopped plants seem odd to me, probably becuase i top mine, over and over and over. youll be ok tho, adding stuff usually takes a few days to really show the effect. and as long as the tips arent yellowing (overferting), then you can add a little of everything safely to boost growth a bit.


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## Dop3yd33 (Mar 30, 2012)

Yeah, she seems pretty fine now. Just time for a bigger pot for the last month I'd say. Thanks a bunch!


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## nick17gar (Mar 30, 2012)

yea no problem. bigger pots = always good. my last pot size they go into before flowering are 30x30x30. big pots. and they get to about 4-5 feet tall, topped multiple times so i have around 6-10 tops, and i have never seen the roots touch the bottom of the pots. besides, it gives them more water to drink, more nutrients, more of a buffer for irregularities like pH being off or over/under ferting. 

smal pots are great for clones/seedlings, but once they are big, and going into flower, the bigger the pot = the less the headaches later.


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## ElectricPineapple (Apr 2, 2012)

hi there. i have been going through so many def guides im going crazy. i think i have this figured out but want make sure. i just turned my lights off for 3 days to switch into flower. my temps at night were getting around the 50'f. its mostly on new growth, and i already know i have pretty good amount of nitrogen ( dark leaves, only sign though) now on the new growth, it started on the fan leaves that were about 4-7 days old so pretty new. ( this is a northern light BUSh about 2.5- 3 feet in height so big tree) now i started getting brown necrotic spots in between vein, then moved to more of a purple the last day of darkness on the very new growth. i usually ph my water to 6.5 or so, im in pro mix myco soil, AGE old organics, grow and bloom. this started when i fed with bloom nutes then a day later went to lights off. my guess is phosphorus due to cold temps. sorry this post is EVERYWHERE. i have yet to medicate today. 

oh ya my pot size is a 20 gal.


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## ElectricPineapple (Apr 2, 2012)

well i just foliared with some kelp at a LOW dose. it has a supply of micro nutes, and has an NPK of .3-.25-.15. this should correct it, if not at least help it.


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## nick17gar (Apr 2, 2012)

ElectricPineapple said:


> well i just foliared with some kelp at a LOW dose. it has a supply of micro nutes, and has an NPK of .3-.25-.15. this should correct it, if not at least help it.


yea foliar feeding rocks. you just have to dilute it more than usual, i try to stick at 50% strength of the strength i would water with. also, aim for the underside of the leaf, and *make sure its early in the day, or **your HID lamps are off* or you could burn the leaves.


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## ElectricPineapple (Apr 2, 2012)

ya i turn my lamps off before i spray. well after a lot of research i think i have concluded what it is. i had an abundance of nitrogen, locking out calcium. i took some pics with my light on, and in the pics, it looks just like calcium deficiency. plus it is the most likely.


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## trichomedome (Apr 4, 2012)

BeefSteak said:


> I find it gives little consideration to most using a two part fertilizer where simply adding more A or B so to say will cure most problems. Most two part fertilizers are pretty complete for the competent grower and it should be easy to work out your Cal/Mag levels too so i find a lot of this merely confuses the grower more over just learning to use his ferts properly and checking Cal/Mag levels.
> 
> Some ask whats this deficiency and the answer is not necessary Phosphorous or Calcium over add more A or B to vary the nutrient levels. Lots of blooms or B dont contain enough nutrients to make it complete hence why most nutrient companies advise on their chart to run veg ferts through the flowering but simply upping the bloom ferts till the P/K is higher than the N. Without the grow yer you probably are Cal or Mag deficient not to mention the abuse of Phosphorous and Potassium. Thanks


Thanks it,s not just me then ? imo messing around with these ferts seperately causes more probs than it ever fixes, as beefsteak said most a+b nutes are well balanced and if you can,t get that right then you have little chance with individual elements. I can,t comment on soil as i,ve never used it also i don,t mean to impune your eforts i actually respect your eforts but in the hands of new growers it,s a recipe for disaster imo. thanks TCD


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## Alexander Supertramp (Apr 4, 2012)

Dop3yd33 said:


> Phosphorus deficiency?! Tried adding small amout of bloom nutes with 2-7-7 NPK ratio and also lowered the PH of the water a bit. It's been a day and it looks like it hasn't spread very much since, but I can't be sure yet. Lemon Skunk fem, 4 weeks (give or take) into flowering.. Any opinions? Thanks
> View attachment 2095284View attachment 2095285View attachment 2095286View attachment 2095297


Looks like overwatering. Not that your giving them too much when they need it, rather watering too often.......


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## ElectricPineapple (Apr 4, 2012)

overwatering? do you know what that looks like?


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## Alexander Supertramp (Apr 5, 2012)

ElectricPineapple said:


> overwatering? do you know what that looks like?


Do you? There are other signs than just the classics...notice how some of the mid level leaves edges are rolling down a bit? It damn sure is not a P deficiency. P deficiencies most always show first in newer growth, not the oldest growth......


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## cowboylogic (Apr 5, 2012)

Dop3yd33 said:


> Phosphorus deficiency?! Tried adding small amout of bloom nutes with 2-7-7 NPK ratio and also lowered the PH of the water a bit. It's been a day and it looks like it hasn't spread very much since, but I can't be sure yet. Lemon Skunk fem, 4 weeks (give or take) into flowering.. Any opinions? Thanks
> View attachment 2095284View attachment 2095285View attachment 2095286View attachment 2095297


Looks over watered too me.......


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## james76208 (Apr 5, 2012)

very imformative there was one on there i had that i actually could have sworn even argued that it was a bug problem thanks


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## treesnowski (Apr 5, 2012)

I have posted pictures hoping to get some validation. I am a month into 12/12 and am skeptical about whether or not I'm doing this right. The White Widow is way ahead of the Shiva Skunk, Super Skunk, and White Russian. White Widow is the strain I was least excited about growing too. I also bought Blueberry, but that strain was not keeping up, and growing all deformed so I removed them prior to flowering. I expected Shiva Skunk to be short, since that is what Sensi Seeds says to expect. Actually my best Shiva is as tall as me 5'9", way taller then the tallest White Widow. The fastest growing plants all got topped prior to flowering, and the best plants now are all untopped, so I think I won't be topping anymore, unless it's a root bound issue. As of now it seems as though I might just stick to one or two phenotypes of White Widow and ditch all the others for round two. I desperately need some input from you Roll It Up folks. I want to keep the Shiva Skunk, Super Skunk, and White Russian around, but they seem to flower alot slower if not less than the White Widow. My favorite Phenotype from the Shiva I didn't clone because it looked so shitty during veg. This fact makes me think I should transplant into larger pots, maybe that's why the fastest, strongest plants during veg are the slowest weakest flowers, because they got pot bound? Oh yeah, also I switched the light schedule for 8 plants. I was flip flopping two flower rooms, but changed the photoperiod for one room, so it's on the opposite schedule. Now the switched plants seem a few days behind the others. Also they smell different, they smell more like bananas, or greener, less like sweet resin, more like green vegetation. I just withheld light for 12 hours so they would be in the same light,dark period as the other flower room. I need somebody to tell me it's going to be okay, or I will have a nervous breakdown.


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## nick17gar (Apr 6, 2012)

QUICK NOTE: leaves die. at the bottom of the plant, having 1-2 yellow, dried, crumpled leaves = normal. dont freak out and think its an issue.
the plant cares less and less about the leaves at the bottom, they get less light, they dont synthesize as much light, the clorophyll eventually gives up, and it dies. this isnt a sign of overferting, its a sign of growth. if 99% of the plant is ok, and you have a couple of dead leaves at the bottom, and you remove them, and 2 weeks later, omg theres another yellow leaf at the bottom, its ok.


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## nick17gar (Apr 6, 2012)

treesnowski said:


> View attachment 2108616View attachment 2108617View attachment 2108619I have posted pictures hoping to get some validation. I am a month into 12/12 and am skeptical about whether or not I'm doing this right. The White Widow is way ahead of the Shiva Skunk, Super Skunk, and White Russian. White Widow is the strain I was least excited about growing too. I also bought Blueberry, but that strain was not keeping up, and growing all deformed so I removed them prior to flowering. I expected Shiva Skunk to be short, since that is what Sensi Seeds says to expect. Actually my best Shiva is as tall as me 5'9", way taller then the tallest White Widow. The fastest growing plants all got topped prior to flowering, and the best plants now are all untopped, so I think I won't be topping anymore, unless it's a root bound issue. As of now it seems as though I might just stick to one or two phenotypes of White Widow and ditch all the others for round two. I desperately need some input from you Roll It Up folks. I want to keep the Shiva Skunk, Super Skunk, and White Russian around, but they seem to flower alot slower if not less than the White Widow. My favorite Phenotype from the Shiva I didn't clone because it looked so shitty during veg. This fact makes me think I should transplant into larger pots, maybe that's why the fastest, strongest plants during veg are the slowest weakest flowers, because they got pot bound? Oh yeah, also I switched the light schedule for 8 plants. I was flip flopping two flower rooms, but changed the photoperiod for one room, so it's on the opposite schedule. Now the switched plants seem a few days behind the others. Also they smell different, they smell more like bananas, or greener, less like sweet resin, more like green vegetation. I just withheld light for 12 hours so they would be in the same light,dark period as the other flower room. I need somebody to tell me it's going to be okay, or I will have a nervous breakdown.


those plants look great. kinda late to transplant, i try to stick them in the final largest pots about a week before i switch to flower. 
regarding strains, i have about 5, some are uppers, some are downers. i prefer the head high upper plant, but i would never toss out a stain. variety is the spice of life, and sometimes ya wanna get the couchlock going on.

your plants look awesome dude. chill out. some grow faster then others, some make more buds then others, some make more buds than others, but hella slower. each stain is vastly different, and in each strain, each plant is different. for best results, tailor what you feed them for each plant, give them time, and dont stress.

id be happy with those babies. nice full plants, good amount of bud growth, resin forming on the leaves, you got time left til harvest. dont spend it freaking out. get yourself a guitar/banjo/harmonica, and jam out,, sing to them, talk to them, talk dirty to them, whatever. 
 <--- soon.


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## still learing (Apr 15, 2012)

whats this
View attachment 2123852


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## still learing (Apr 15, 2012)

well
any help


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## Alexander Supertramp (Apr 16, 2012)

still learing said:


> whats this
> View attachment 2123852


same thing it been for days and many have already told you, nitrogen toxicity........


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## nick17gar (Apr 17, 2012)

Alexander Supertramp said:


> same thing it been for days and many have already told you, nitrogen toxicity........


ya or your heat is too high, something wrong with your watering, or pH, but yea N looks high, cut back some, they are well into flower and use very little N


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## bass1014 (Apr 18, 2012)

still learing said:


> whats this
> View attachment 2123852


 lmao looks like a weed plant of some sort.. might want to dry it up and smoke it


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## treesnowski (Apr 19, 2012)

still learing said:


> whats this
> View attachment 2123852


I wish I could help. All I know is I have that same droopy issue with some plants too. Some plants of the same strain don't do it at all while some do. I'm guessing something wrong with the root zone, but I just go along and treat them the same as the other plants, and some of the droopy ones rebound and catch up if not surpass the others. I would like a definitive answer too. People say maybe nitrogen toxicity, but the leaves can be yellowed half way up the stalk while the darker tops do the slouch.


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## treesnowski (Apr 19, 2012)

I'll share my opinion about nitrogen during flowering. Don't do this or that, depending on what popular belief is. I am using the same nutrients on four strains, and some are definitely getting enough nitrogen while some have yellow fan leaves all the way up the plant, and I still have 3 weeks left of flowering before harvest. I should probably treat all these different needs individually, but when I step in the grow room I just start staring and admiring all the beautiful flowers, and don't get around to everything I should do. I'm using the Botanicare CNS17 line, and the ripe definitely doesn't have enough nitrogen for any of my strains, so I end up adding 2 parts ripe (1-5-4) and 1 part bloom (2-2-3) and I'm still having alot of premature yellowing.


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## nick17gar (Apr 22, 2012)

treesnowski said:


> I'll share my opinion about nitrogen during flowering. Don't do this or that, depending on what popular belief is. I am using the same nutrients on four strains, and some are definitely getting enough nitrogen while some have yellow fan leaves all the way up the plant, and I still have 3 weeks left of flowering before harvest. I should probably treat all these different needs individually, but when I step in the grow room I just start staring and admiring all the beautiful flowers, and don't get around to everything I should do. I'm using the Botanicare CNS17 line, and the ripe definitely doesn't have enough nitrogen for any of my strains, so I end up adding 2 parts ripe (1-5-4) and 1 part bloom (2-2-3) and I'm still having alot of premature yellowing.



yea nitrogen while flowering is a debated issue. i personally, still feed it nitrogen. i cant stand yellowing or whatever. besides it helping the plant continue to grow, it strengthens the roots, the stems, etc... the key is to not overfeed nitrogen in flowering, the plant uses very little of it, so overfeeding happens a lot, and then you get smaller nugs. if you decide to add nitrogen during flower, dont do much. usually the first 2-3 weeks in flower i feed about 1/2 strength nitrogen/veg nutes, then taper it down to about 1/3rd or 1/4th strength


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## Futurama89 (Apr 23, 2012)

Hey guys im having a little bit of deficiency problems on my outdoor grow, the strain is Iranian Autoflower/ShortSeason, and she's a light feeder from what ive been told so ive been giving 1/4 stregth nutes and im thinking maybe i should have given full strength micro-blast(i use FULL earth juice lineup).

Would love some expert advice over here, i think its a magnesium deficiency, and looks low on nitrogen but thats what ive heard shes an exceptionally low feeder on so i do want to be carefull of to much N.
 This is the worst one, quite a bit of dead/rusty spots, and browning of the leaf, tad crunchy to the touch, leaves curling down slightly.
 This on has a small whitish oval appearing dead center of the leaf, tad crunchy to the touch, leaves curling down/in slightly.
 This one has a brown spot, could be from a tea feeding(im only feeding teas) tried rubbing it lightly and it might have faded dont want to rub my leaf though........

ANY AND ALL HELP IS APPRECIATED HAVING A LITTLE TROUBLE WITH THE NUTES ON THESE LADIES!!!!!!


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## Futurama89 (Apr 23, 2012)

thinking of adding a full dose of micro blast to the next tea in about an hr or 2 thoughts?


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## nick17gar (Apr 24, 2012)

@ futurama89

http://www.planetnatural.com/site/earth-juice-microblast.html this stuff? that has 0-0-0 NPK. what are you using? yes theres deficiencies, it needs N and P, as well as micro nutes. but its also tiny. id go 1/2 strength MAX on anything id use.

hows the drainage in those little cups? as long as drainage is good, and pH is right, then yea add some nutes


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## The420Doctor (Apr 24, 2012)

Anybody know what this could be?
[video=youtube;Gs0QOBaPBLI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gs0QOBaPBLI[/video]


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## treesnowski (Apr 24, 2012)

The420Doctor said:


> Anybody know what this could be?
> [video=youtube;Gs0QOBaPBLI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gs0QOBaPBLI[/video]


Have you seen this yet? http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688
If you go to this thread and scroll down to manganese deficiency, you might find the culprit.


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## Futurama89 (Apr 24, 2012)

nick17gar said:


> @ futurama89
> 
> http://www.planetnatural.com/site/earth-juice-microblast.html this stuff? that has 0-0-0 NPK. what are you using? yes theres deficiencies, it needs N and P, as well as micro nutes. but its also tiny. id go 1/2 strength MAX on anything id use.
> 
> hows the drainage in those little cups? as long as drainage is good, and pH is right, then yea add some nutes


yes thats my micro nutes, i use this along with the entire earth juice lineup
and a guano, seabird, wormcasting pre-mixed powder and i compost tea for feeding.
i was told it was nute burn before anyone else/you could get back to me, so i flushed with a gallon and a half for all 22 half full solo cups last night. ph'd at 6.5 incase ph was an issue, i checked my runoff and it was 6.8-6.9ish...
and the drainage is pretty good only in pro-mix organic, 6 holes in the bottome 1 hole in each side(4 total) and i poked holes in the soil(3)
its been about 18 hours and its definetly gotten worse but it may have leveled off i cant quite tell..........
im not sure what to do im think i should transplant into larger containers and MAYBE foliar mist some Thrive alive B1 (organic b supplement and derived from sea kelp)....


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## treesnowski (Apr 24, 2012)

This is the only plant in my grow that doesn't have spots, dots, curling, burning, tacoing, or yellowing, it's a white widow.

Here's more White Widow and White Russian with bad yellowing. Botanicare claims you can use just 1-5-4 for flowering, I'd hate to see what that looks like.

I'm growing in coco, and using reverse osmosis. Both these conditions call for extra calcium, so I use 5ml per gallon of CalMag and use Botanicare's CNS line made specifically for coco substrate, yet I still get this with White Russian.
.Calcium deficiency right?
And then there's this going on, whatever it is. I wish I knew.


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## nick17gar (Apr 26, 2012)

could be calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, zinc deficiencies, hard to tell really, either way, its not nute burn so up all the nutes a bit. 

i get some funky shit here and there too, a leaf with some spots, another with curling, etc etc, as long as theres no nute burn, then you can add more nutes (some of each) and it will work itself out. i barely try to figure out what exactly is missing, i just get a general idea of what couple causes it could be, and treat for them all. 

1-5-4 for flowering? eh... maybe... i try to stick to something more like 3-7-7, and i overload mine with micro nutes during flower. i try to never have deficiencies during flowering, id rather risk a little nute burn then a underfeeding. i like feeding a healthy amount of Nitrogen too, i dont like seeing yellowing on my fan leaves even in flower. 

my main issue right now is my college classes just started up again so i cant focus on my babies all day like i used too, and its cold here now and im having a hell of a time taking clones (took 20, and maybe 1/2 died due to mold, just too damn cold and wet).


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## nick17gar (Apr 26, 2012)

Futurama89 said:


> yes thats my micro nutes, i use this along with the entire earth juice lineup
> and a guano, seabird, wormcasting pre-mixed powder and i compost tea for feeding.
> i was told it was nute burn before anyone else/you could get back to me, so i flushed with a gallon and a half for all 22 half full solo cups last night. ph'd at 6.5 incase ph was an issue, i checked my runoff and it was 6.8-6.9ish...
> and the drainage is pretty good only in pro-mix organic, 6 holes in the bottome 1 hole in each side(4 total) and i poked holes in the soil(3)
> ...


nute burn is the ONLY thing that appears on the EDGES of the leaves, starting with the tips, then up the serrated side, it looks brown, and dry to the touch, even crispy like its burnt. unless thats whats going on, then its NOT nute burn.
keep in mind, you can be burning with one element (say nitrogen) and underfeeding with another (like potassium). thats when the charts and everything else really help.


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## ogtapus (Apr 26, 2012)

hello! our guide is very helpful.. but I cant figure out If my plant has a potassium defficiency... help? 
View attachment 2139812View attachment 2139813


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## 90cody (Apr 26, 2012)

treesnowski said:


> .View attachment 2137275Calcium deficiency right?
> And then there's this going on, whatever it is. I wish I knew.
> View attachment 2137293


i have a very similar problem, yet to figure out why.. have tried all kinds of shit, to no avail


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## Mikeabc (Apr 27, 2012)

still learing said:


> whats this
> View attachment 2123852


probably should post more pics an some info about ur setup, nutes, etc


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## treesnowski (Apr 27, 2012)

90cody said:


> i have a very similar problem, yet to figure out why.. have tried all kinds of shit, to no avail
> View attachment 2140345View attachment 2140348View attachment 2140350View attachment 2140351View attachment 2140352View attachment 2140353View attachment 2140354


Yeah, the plants seem to have the dame rusty speckles. When I started this grow, I was confident I would be able to identify and treat problems, but that's not so. I'll be content as long as I harvest at least a 1/2 gram per watt of good medicine. Here's some more pictures of problems, anyone is welcome to chime in if they have a clue. 
Rust colored dots. This White Russian stays green, hasn't ever yellowed. 
Yellow leaves with light green veins. Her fingers look arthritic, she needs medical marijuana, she's a cripple.
Curly, burnt tips, and it looks like some diarrhea splashed on her lime green leaves. This is not some good shit.
And the claw, which pops up on plants that also have yellowing fans, nitrogen toxicity, and deficiency symptoms on one plant, WTF?


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## Futurama89 (Apr 28, 2012)

Hey man heres an update, its been 5 days since transplanting my ladies, ive foliar sprayed them once with thrive alive(kelp and b vitamins)
They looked like they came back and have started new growth, they look quite low on nitrogen since the flush/transplant and are starting to purple slightly at the tips(Phosphorus defic) so i decided to try nutes again today, i didnt do a compost tea like last time, i just mixed nutes into 1 gallon jugs, i fed 1/6 strength grow(2-1-1), 1/4 strength bloom(0-5-3), and 1/4 strength catalyst(.03-.01-.1, aids in vegitation and budding, ej website says to use it whenever using grow or bloom....)
Here are some pics since the transplant, i took these right after water with 2 gallons of nute solution at the previous mixture

View attachment 2144322 Any idea why the cupping i thought it was from underwatering after the transplantso last night i gave an extra gallon of water to the ladies and a few perked up, am i right for thinking they need more water to fix the cupping?
View attachment 2144323 heres a random pic of the worst one
View attachment 2144324 heres a pic showing off signs of N deficency i think
View attachment 2144325 And this is just a pic of them in there new homes

If you could give me any tips, or advice please help! this strain is being a bitch in its early vegging!!!!
What deficencys do you see, any abundacies?


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## greennewfie (May 7, 2012)

good info man, got me out of a jam thanks!!


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## SNTSX (May 8, 2012)

great info!


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## palerider1 (May 10, 2012)

I'm growing in a RDWC (recycling deep water culture) I have rust spots that turn brown and than dry up. I've tryed flushing,lowering my nutrients,changed PH ratio, and still can't solve the problem,don't know what else to try,any other suggestions?


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## nick17gar (May 11, 2012)

palerider1 said:


> I'm growing in a RDWC (recycling deep water culture) I have rust spots that turn brown and than dry up. I've tryed flushing,lowering my nutrients,changed PH ratio, and still can't solve the problem,don't know what else to try,any other suggestions?


where are the brown spots? unless the death is on the edge of the leaf (signifying nute burn), then your spots are either bugs or UNDER feeding your plants. and flushing, lowering nutes will never help, in fact it will get worse.

if your in soil, staying at 6.8 is the most important thing. 5.8 for hydro (and your RDWC setup). never veer from this. ever. 


post up some pics so we can see whats going on.


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## Moyo1984 (May 12, 2012)

This is my first grow Im using a DWC system with GH 3 part recently switched to the Lucas formula its not too bad just yet but wanna catch it before it gets worse. How should I be mixing my nutes (calculated for 3 gallons) to fix this problem that seems to be a Potassium deficiency?


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## augurlord (May 12, 2012)

that was very helpfull TY


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## moneytalks420 (May 13, 2012)

i have a sulfur problem how do i help it? do i flush? do i give it more nutes? whats the deal


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## moneytalks420 (May 13, 2012)

how do i change this ??????? im in flowering need help asap


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## nick17gar (May 15, 2012)

moneytalks420 said:


> how do i change this ??????? im in flowering need help asap
> 
> View attachment 2166474


up the micro nutes. check your bottles of nutrients and see which has sulfur and use more of it.

i stick to the bottles from petstores for fish tanks, tropical plants, 0-0-0 NPK, 15+ micro nutes, usually 6 bucks. been using that for years as an additive and its rare for me to have anything wierd going on


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## TheNewGuyy (May 18, 2012)

nick17gar said:


> where are the brown spots? unless the death is on the edge of the leaf (signifying nute burn), then your spots are either bugs or UNDER feeding your plants. and flushing, lowering nutes will never help, in fact it will get worse.
> 
> if your in soil, staying at 6.8 is the most important thing. 5.8 for hydro (and your RDWC setup). never veer from this. ever.
> 
> ...


I have this same problem. its like rust and the leaf can twist or turn as well. Also some burnt edges. Only on some of my plants and its a dft system


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## SmokingOnDank (May 22, 2012)

pineapplexblueberry stem is still grena and standing up as well as a few tops leaves a green but droopy and the yest are shriveled and yellowish brown . what is to be donw


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## nick17gar (Jun 2, 2012)

TheNewGuyy said:


> I have this same problem. its like rust and the leaf can twist or turn as well. Also some burnt edges. Only on some of my plants and its a dft system


post a pic of this, nute burn usually wont twist/turn leaves. unless its really bad. 

nute burn and phosphorus deficiency are mistaken pretty often. make sure its not nute burn, and flush, when in reality you should be adding nutes...

hence, post a pic and lets see


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## nick17gar (Jun 2, 2012)

SmokingOnDank said:


> pineapplexblueberry stem is still grena and standing up as well as a few tops leaves a green but droopy and the yest are shriveled and yellowish brown . what is to be donw



huh? 
Photos dude. of the entire plant, entire grow, affected leaves, dirt. i gotta know what your feeding, what the pH is, temps, humidity... 

droopy? could be pH, could be overwatering, could be a micro nute deficiency causing weakened stems...
Shriveled leaves... underwatering, micro nute deficiency, nute burn, pH burn, salt burn
yellowing... N deficiency (99% of the times if in veg growth)

i gotta see pics.

honestly, id rather you guys post pics and not say anything, then not post pics and my brain have to try to piece together what your describing.


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## BuddGreen (Jun 3, 2012)

Moyo1984 said:


> This is my first grow Im using a DWC system with GH 3 part recently switched to the Lucas formula its not too bad just yet but wanna catch it before it gets worse. How should I be mixing my nutes (calculated for 3 gallons) to fix this problem that seems to be a Potassium deficiency?View attachment 2164615View attachment 2164616View attachment 2164617View attachment 2164614


What does your DWC system consist of and what dose strength are you feeding them??? Most important thing is keeping the pH @ 5.8 and the water temps low.


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## nick17gar (Jun 5, 2012)

Moyo1984 said:


> This is my first grow Im using a DWC system with GH 3 part recently switched to the Lucas formula its not too bad just yet but wanna catch it before it gets worse. How should I be mixing my nutes (calculated for 3 gallons) to fix this problem that seems to be a Potassium deficiency?View attachment 2164615View attachment 2164616View attachment 2164617View attachment 2164614


id add in just about every nutrient. not too much N, and a healthy dose of everything else, including mucro nutes. that leaf rip... i dunno, could be just a rip... but if its on a lot, check for bugs, and keep checking ph.


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## nick17gar (Jun 5, 2012)

moneytalks420 said:


> how do i change this ??????? im in flowering need help asap
> 
> View attachment 2166474


well if you have too much, dont flush, just dont add more. and if you dont have enough... add more. i doubt you have too much.


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## Private Stash (Jun 7, 2012)

Great Thread and postings here..Thanks! Just thought I would add some Pic's of my own..Hope these can help. This is a Calcium deficiency. This was NOT caused by lack of Ca in my mix! I'll explain in a sec...This deficiency was caused due to a lockout! My Ph in my DWC set up rose to 6.2 for a couple days  Calcium will get locked out in Hydro above 5.9 and in soil below 6.4 If I would have added additional Ca to my system,I would have created a toxicity! Therefore making matters worse! Before adding more Fert. to treat a deficiency be sure you are checking your Ph levels also! At the first signs of a deficiency,correct your Ph if needed FIRST!...THEN add more fert if NEW growth is still affected. Once a leaf is scarred it will NOT heal! I've seen posts where people expect to see the damaged leaf heal,and when it doesn't they continue to add more fert! BAD! 
BTW I am using AN sensi bloom A/B. It already has Ca in it! A/N recommends(on a DWC setup) topping off the res with 100ppmCal/mag(r/o water) which I do. That is why I know it is due to a lock out(plus my Ph reading was obvious!). Thanks for letting me throw my 2 cents in...Grow in Peace!!


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## monkeeboi69 (Jun 9, 2012)

HI everyone im growing a clone for the first time and i just recently added nutes and this problem began. its been 4 days now and i was hoping maybe someone could help. ive had the ph at about 6-6.5 in soil.

forgot to mention im using Fossil Fuel, Fox Farms Grow Big, and Roots Organics "Trinity" all at 1/4 strength and i just added them for the first time.


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## TDM (Jun 19, 2012)

I did not see my plant prb in pics.
Yellowing, small spindly leaves towards top
Treating w/Cal-MagView attachment 2219197View attachment 2219202


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## dustin741 (Jun 19, 2012)

Im going to save this thread and print it out.


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## nick17gar (Jun 21, 2012)

Private Stash said:


> Great Thread and postings here..Thanks! Just thought I would add some Pic's of my own..Hope these can help.View attachment 2203141View attachment 2203144View attachment 2203147 This is a Calcium deficiency. This was NOT caused by lack of Ca in my mix! I'll explain in a sec...This deficiency was caused due to a lockout! My Ph in my DWC set up rose to 6.2 for a couple days  Calcium will get locked out in Hydro above 5.9 and in soil below 6.4 If I would have added additional Ca to my system,I would have created a toxicity! Therefore making matters worse! Before adding more Fert. to treat a deficiency be sure you are checking your Ph levels also! At the first signs of a deficiency,correct your Ph if needed FIRST!...THEN add more fert if NEW growth is still affected. Once a leaf is scarred it will NOT heal! I've seen posts where people expect to see the damaged leaf heal,and when it doesn't they continue to add more fert! BAD!
> BTW I am using AN sensi bloom A/B. It already has Ca in it! A/N recommends(on a DWC setup) topping off the res with 100ppmCal/mag(r/o water) which I do. That is why I know it is due to a lock out(plus my Ph reading was obvious!). Thanks for letting me throw my 2 cents in...Grow in Peace!!


well at 6.4 you can be locking out a lot of other nutes. i wouldnt go as far as to say thats also low on P
View attachment 2221836


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## nick17gar (Jun 21, 2012)

monkeeboi69 said:


> HI everyone im growing a clone for the first time and i just recently added nutes and this problem began. its been 4 days now and i was hoping maybe someone could help. ive had the ph at about 6-6.5 in soil.
> 
> forgot to mention im using Fossil Fuel, Fox Farms Grow Big, and Roots Organics "Trinity" all at 1/4 strength and i just added them for the first time.


ok, pics 1 and 3 are the same issue, the first is severe, the 3rd is moderate. am im thinking it could be a mix of a N def, and some potassium. your pH is kinda low and could be blocking out the nutes, so i wouldnt add anything for a bit. id get some 7.0 buffer from a pet store for fishtanks and add that to all the upcoming feedings til your closer to 7 in the run off, try dolomitic lime too, but the issue is thats easier to use before the grow, and not during (i got some that were pellets, and they worked great but a hassle when already in dirt).

pic 2 is odd. it still looks like its a little low on N, but the damage on that leaf looks like it could be bugs too. have you looked under the leaves? if its not bugs, then your pH is causing structural damage to the leaf, and thats no good either. im less likely to go with that tho, pH does some really funky shit, and that leaf isnt that wierd, its just damaged.

either way, mix your nutrients like normal, and raise the solutions´ pH to 7 or even 7.5 and add it in. dont add in a ton of nutes... yet


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## nick17gar (Jun 21, 2012)

TDM said:


> I did not see my plant prb in pics.
> Yellowing, small spindly leaves towards top
> Treating w/Cal-MagView attachment 2219197View attachment 2219202



how hot is the area these plants are in? those leaves are hella taco´d. 
whats the pH? if thats ok, id add more N, and micro nutes.


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## jaykyjoh (Jun 21, 2012)

Hey guys Im a super noob. Im about a month into flowering and im seeing a few issues with plants that have previously been doing well. I know part of the problem is my PH meter is broken. I havent been able to buy another yet. 1 sativa plant & indica are giving me trouble. the indica was given to me by a friend and it looks horrible now. Im growing in Soil in a 40" x 40" grow tent with a 400 hps light. Let me know the best way to make it to harvest with most of my crop intact


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## vagellie007 (Jun 21, 2012)

*hey guys whats up, i'm a total new b to growing and i learned quite a bit just reading this forum , i have 2 plants that were stunt for a bit i thought it was n def so i added some nutrients, i'm using fox farm trio and soil. i had forgot them in my closet with the lamp for 2 days and they got really yellow so i watered them a bit and they seem to be coming around. my current issue is the brown spots and tips and i have no clue whats causing it. and when can i tell when to put them in the ground? sry for all the questions but i'm in asking mode and very interested in learning more. i ty all ahead of time and i'll post pics ev week to show u where i stand.*


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## nick17gar (Jun 21, 2012)

jaykyjoh said:


> Hey guys Im a super noob. Im about a month into flowering and im seeing a few issues with plants that have previously been doing well. I know part of the problem is my PH meter is broken. I havent been able to buy another yet. 1 sativa plant & indica are giving me trouble. the indica was given to me by a friend and it looks horrible now.View attachment 2222281View attachment 2222282View attachment 2222283 Im growing in Soil in a 40" x 40" grow tent with a 400 hps light. Let me know the best way to make it to harvest with most of my crop intact


well you got all sorts of issues going on, if you cant get a pH thing, then your gonna have to play it be ear
start off with water, add in your nutes, go heavy with all the micro nutes, and lots of P, K. thats what you need, its just hard to tell if your deficient, of if its pH lockout. either way, add more and hope the pH is ok...?

seems ass backwards to me, but yea.


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## nick17gar (Jun 21, 2012)

vagellie007 said:


> *hey guys whats up, i'm a total new b to growing and i learned quite a bit just reading this forum , i have 2 plants that were stunt for a bit i thought it was n def so i added some nutrients, i'm using fox farm trio and soil. i had forgot them in my closet with the lamp for 2 days and they got really yellow so i watered them a bit and they seem to be coming around. my current issue is the brown spots and tips and i have no clue whats causing it. and when can i tell when to put them in the ground? sry for all the questions but i'm in asking mode and very interested in learning more. i ty all ahead of time and i'll post pics ev week to show u where i stand.*


um... get a timer, and stop moving them around. put them on a 24/0 schedule or a 20/4 or maybe 18/6... anyways, add nitrogen, add micro nutes, and a little P and K. check PH and you should be fine. 

its just hungry


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## jaykyjoh (Jun 22, 2012)

nick17gar said:


> well you got all sorts of issues going on, if you cant get a pH thing, then your gonna have to play it be ear
> start off with water, add in your nutes, go heavy with all the micro nutes, and lots of P, K. thats what you need, its just hard to tell if your deficient, of if its pH lockout. either way, add more and hope the pH is ok...?
> 
> seems ass backwards to me, but yea.


Ok will do thanx a lot!


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## Noximus (Jun 26, 2012)

Hey, can you help me narrow down this issue. I believed at first it was nute burn, but now i believe that it is a P or K defeciency. It starts on the youngest leves while the older growth seems unaffected. I am.using roots organic soil nutes are Subcools super soil.mix. two 600w hps cooled with a 465cfm fan. Average temps 75-80°. Plants still.grow pretty buds but at slower rate and with less yield since the fan leaves endup dead. Sugar leavez around buds are affected after top fan leaves die out. With old growth affected last??? leaves start like this then start curling at the tips like this then keep getting worse


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## Jopse (Jul 1, 2012)

Need help bottom first set of true leaves r yellowing its 1 month and 5 days old since planted in soil after root has emerged from seed. Any tips for this first timer. This is hard!


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## nick17gar (Jul 3, 2012)

jaykyjoh said:


> Hey guys Im a super noob. Im about a month into flowering and im seeing a few issues with plants that have previously been doing well. I know part of the problem is my PH meter is broken. I havent been able to buy another yet. 1 sativa plant & indica are giving me trouble. the indica was given to me by a friend and it looks horrible now.View attachment 2222281View attachment 2222282View attachment 2222283 Im growing in Soil in a 40" x 40" grow tent with a 400 hps light. Let me know the best way to make it to harvest with most of my crop intact


well without knowing the pH, its hard to say if thats pH burn or nute burn. if you cant get a pH kit, or a 6.5 or 7.0 pH buffer from a pet store for fish tanks, then mix your nutes, and add a little lemon juice. its risky, and the lemon´s pH wont alter the pH of the soil much, but it might help


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## nick17gar (Jul 3, 2012)

Noximus said:


> Hey, can you help me narrow down this issue. I believed at first it was nute burn, but now i believe that it is a P or K defeciency. It starts on the youngest leves while the older growth seems unaffected. I am.using roots organic soil nutes are Subcools super soil.mix. two 600w hps cooled with a 465cfm fan. Average temps 75-80°. Plants still.grow pretty buds but at slower rate and with less yield since the fan leaves endup dead. Sugar leavez around buds are affected after top fan leaves die out. With old growth affected last??? leaves start like thisView attachment 2228911 then start curling at the tips like thisView attachment 2228912 then keep getting worse View attachment 2228913View attachment 2228914View attachment 2228915


honestly, pic 1 looks fine, the other 4 look like heat issues. my digital thermometer (39 bucks) tells me the peaks of the temp, are you sure they arent passing 80 degrees? another possibility might be humidity, as long as thats close to 50%, and heats not over 80, then id add some micro nutes, just to see if it helps.

and yea add more P and K anyways for the discoloration


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## nick17gar (Jul 3, 2012)

Jopse said:


> Need help bottom first set of true leaves r yellowing its 1 month and 5 days old since planted in soil after root has emerged from seed. Any tips for this first timer. This is hard!


have you tried nutrients? like adding nitrogen? pics help too.


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## Noximus (Jul 3, 2012)

nick17gar said:


> honestly, pic 1 looks fine, the other 4 look like heat issues. my digital thermometer (39 bucks) tells me the peaks of the temp, are you sure they arent passing 80 degrees? another possibility might be humidity, as long as thats close to 50%, and heats not over 80, then id add some micro nutes, just to see if it helps.
> 
> and yea add more P and K anyways for the discoloration


 thanks but my temps and humidity are ok. my other plants weren't experiencing the problems that this one was. i fed with some light flowering nutes and it got even worse. so i believe it was what i believed at first, nute burn. its ok, i have cuttings of it ready to go for the next run. this must be a nutrient sensitive strain. its a chocolope x white widow that i created. and ooooh it smells like a fruity, floral juice. covered in resin by week 2 flowering. cant wait to taste it. but thanks for the response


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## nick17gar (Jul 7, 2012)

*Im posting this from another thread, I think its key on how to Create your own feeding plan, and start PREVENTING issues, instead of TREATING them.
*


nick17gar said:


> i gotta be honest, and im guilty of this too, trying to find out exactly what nutes are showing their deficiencies, kinda pointless.
> its not like we can easily add one nute and not any other. like if your short potassium or calcium for example, maybe ya can, but if your short on molybdenum or copper what do ya do?
> 
> after many grows im starting to think we should start looking at plant problems the say way we look at ourselves when treating injuries or wierd bumps or a rash or whatever. we dont try to find out exactly what strain of bacteria is growing on our finger, we simply apply neosporin (or some other ointment) and if it doesnt work after a week, then we seek professional help.
> ...


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## xxvsrxx (Jul 8, 2012)

When can I buy all these nutrients. Because every picture with the problems looks like my plant. The leave are drying out and it won't grow it's only 2 weeks old


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## xxvsrxx (Jul 8, 2012)

*

When can I buy all these nutrients. Because every picture with the problems looks like my plant. The leave are drying out and it won't grow it's only 2 weeks old




​

*


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## nick17gar (Jul 11, 2012)

xxvsrxx said:


> When can I buy all these nutrients. Because every picture with the problems looks like my plant. The leave are drying out and it won't grow it's only 2 weeks old


um.... now?

at 2 weeks, im already feeding nutes. either by adding them in when i water, or by providing good (nutrient rich) dirt.

What are you growing in? got pics? whats your ph? temps? lights? no nutrients yet? please god tell me your in dirt, cuz no nutrients in hydro is NOT good.


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## dvs1038 (Jul 14, 2012)

Hey I'm gettin a lil worried about my larger plant here its about 23 days into flowering and a lot of the fan leaves r yellowing and dying, I'm growin in FFOF soil was usin grow big and big bloom, also tryin out that banana tea w/molasses. I don't have ph meter but I got a water report that said the ph average for this area was 7-8, temps don't usually get too hot since I have my lights come on around sunset. I've added dolomite lime to my soil b4 the grow and a lil as a top dressing, could my soil b too alkaline? But the rest of the plant is lookin good. Its just almost every day more fan leaves r yellowing and dying.


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## heresSMOKEY (Jul 14, 2012)

dvs1038 said:


> Hey I'm gettin a lil worried about my larger plant here its about 23 days into flowering and a lot of the fan leaves r yellowing and dying, I'm growin in FFOF soil was usin grow big and big bloom, also tryin out that banana tea w/molasses. I don't have ph meter but I got a water report that said the ph average for this area was 7-8, temps don't usually get too hot since I have my lights come on around sunset. I've added dolomite lime to my soil b4 the grow and a lil as a top dressing, could my soil b too alkaline? But the rest of the plant is lookin good. Its just almost every day more fan leaves r yellowing and dying.
> 
> View attachment 2255082View attachment 2255083


fan leafs die man its a natural thing when flowering old fan leafs die


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## kronikkush420 (Jul 19, 2012)

hey i have to unknown strains(random bag of seeds) that are a bout 3-4 weeks into flowering. im using a 70 watt hps light about 18" from the tops of the plant. and an oscilating fan to help lower the heat IF thats part of the problem. ive been trying to diagnose it for a week or so now and cant figure it out. any help would be great! the leaves are slowly starting to feel crispy the tips or starting to go yellow/black as well as the edges of the leaves as you can see in the pictures. also the edges and tips are curling upwards.


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## Joshue (Jul 20, 2012)

So we really need to balance everything regarding the proper handling of plants? I sometimes find it tormenting but seeing them healthy growing, it's then enough for me that to wash away that certain feeling.


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## secretsparty (Jul 20, 2012)

*So My ladies are in the 35th day of flowering. basic info: 600W HPS, 5x5 tent, soil, room temp is steady at 75F, humidity 50%. Its well ventilated, has plenty of fans going. I started to notice some spider mites a few weeks back and I used some mighty wash & habanero pepper spray to rid my plants of those guys. I thought that's what was causing the brown spots on my leaves. Bugs are now gone! but problem is getting worse with leaves...

Turns out from what i have been researching that its a possible deficiency? 

I feed with tap water (out of tap water is PH of 7.8 or so, I get it down to 6.5 PH though every time). runoff is about 6.5-6.6ph so thats all good.. My water is around 400PPM+ TDS, I thought that hard water had a lot of Mg and Ca in it though.. So im confused as to why this would be the issue. Should I start using distilled water instead of tap water? I do feed with 1/2 strength nutes (florabloom), so im not just using plain water, these bad boys seem to have been growing fine except for the brown spots on the leaves, and then leaves turn yellow and are basically just falling off without wilting. 

I have already fed the babies once with Epsom salt (1/2tsb per gallon x 2 gallons), should this start to help out? Do I feed them more Epsom salts until the problem is fixed or do i only feed once? I dont want to hurt the plants. I also thought about just trying some earth Juice and trying to fix it. or Cal n Mag.* *guy at the grow shop sold me some Plant Success Mycorrhizae (http://www.4hydro.com/nutrients/mycorrhizae-granular.asp). He told me not to worry about the earthjuice or cal n mag yet.. What do you guys think? Im SURE the bugs are gone. The leaves are turning yellow also and are just easy as hell to pull off. not really wilting but just coming right off. Help a brother out!*

View attachment 2262521View attachment 2262522View attachment 2262523View attachment 2262524


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## nick17gar (Jul 21, 2012)

kronikkush420 said:


> hey i have to unknown strains(random bag of seeds) that are a bout 3-4 weeks into flowering. im using a 70 watt hps light about 18" from the tops of the plant. and an oscilating fan to help lower the heat IF thats part of the problem. ive been trying to diagnose it for a week or so now and cant figure it out. any help would be great! the leaves are slowly starting to feel crispy the tips or starting to go yellow/black as well as the edges of the leaves as you can see in the pictures. also the edges and tips are curling upwards.View attachment 2261263View attachment 2261282View attachment 2261283


70w HPS? you mean 750w?

from what i can tell, heat stress! during veg, you can mist them. i try to not do that during flowering tho, crank up the ac, or cut back on the light schedule, an hour or so, or more fans


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## nick17gar (Jul 21, 2012)

Joshue said:


> So we really need to balance everything regarding the proper handling of plants? I sometimes find it tormenting but seeing them healthy growing, it's then enough for me that to wash away that certain feeling.


its practice dude. theres no set amount of nutes a plant needs. if it grows faster, it needs more nutes. if its cold, it needs less water and more nutes. hot temps are more water, less nutes. big plants need more then small ones. you just gotta have some confidence and not freak out. i see a nute toxicity/deficiency on one of my plants and im like, ´eh, ok´ and fix it. its all about trying to stay 1 step ahead of issues, and being prepared, with plenty of nutes, ph testing supplies, extra bulbs, fans, wires, electric tape, whatever.

it gets pretty boring after a few years. non-eventful really. just second nature i guess, you just look at them and know one needs more N, the other needs less N, this one has some bug, that one needs to be rotated, tie this one down, top that one. whatever.

it gets easier. staying high helps too.


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## nick17gar (Jul 21, 2012)

secretsparty said:


> *So My ladies are in the 35th day of flowering. basic info: 600W HPS, 5x5 tent, soil, room temp is steady at 75F, humidity 50%. Its well ventilated, has plenty of fans going. I started to notice some spider mites a few weeks back and I used some mighty wash & habanero pepper spray to rid my plants of those guys. I thought that's what was causing the brown spots on my leaves. Bugs are now gone! but problem is getting worse with leaves...
> 
> Turns out from what i have been researching that its a possible deficiency?
> 
> ...


well i cant say anything about mites, cuz i dont see them
but pic 1 looks high on N (look at the top right leaf, that shit is too dark), low on P, K.
pic 2 id bump up P and K, and micro nutes, but that ones doing.... ok...
pic 3, 4, 5, hard to tell cuz everythings yellow, but yea add P and K, and micro nutes. 
pic 6, 7, 8, thats just sever deficiencies. add nutes. 

if your in flower, you really dont need much of N, but the amount of P and K ya need is very very high. when the plant doesnt get it from the roots, it sucks it out of the fan leaves, to still be able to grow buds. the fan leaves then act, instead of solar panels, as batteries, and if your deficiency is high, your batteries get drained.

hard water?? sure, it has more crap in it, but who knows what! dont assume the reason its hard is becuase of a nute you want it to have. it could be hard due to salt, flouride, chlorine, chloramine, ammonia... and whatever else they put in it.

I remember seeing those commercials for truth.com or whatever that talked about the 100s of chemicals in cigarettes and the water in DC had the same shit in it. tap water sucks. i fill up huge containers, let them sit for 3 days, then add nutes. 

if your really worried about the water, go to a pet store. i swear, fish and pot need the same damn things.
get a bottle of water additive, the chlorine/chloramine removal stuff. 
get a bottle of 6.5 pH buffer
get a bottle of plant food for tropical plants, its 0-0-0 but has like 15 micro nutes in it.
get a pH kit.
those 4 things together might be 30 bucks?

if its safe for fish to swim in, its probably safe for us to smoke... granted i still stop everything (minus sugar) 2 weeks prior to harvest.

Overall tho, cut down on N, pump everything else up a bit, gradually, til ya see the dead spots not forming anymore.


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## Pencil Slim (Jul 28, 2012)

I have RA is weed good or not so good for it?


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## Wannabejdm (Jul 29, 2012)

Best thread for in detailed information even compared to other forums


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## hockey4848 (Aug 4, 2012)

any thoughts??


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## slayer6669 (Aug 6, 2012)

Pencil Slim said:


> I have RA is weed good or not so good for it?


it would help you out


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## nick17gar (Aug 17, 2012)

*Molybdenum Deficiency
*it happened to one of my plants, so i took pics to show what its like, took 2 different pics of the same leaf, so you get an idea of the color of red... its almost burgundy... um, this leaf was older, towards the bottom, its in dirt that has been around for a while, and needs to be freshened up obviously.

this is the first time i´ve seen this in my grows over the past 5 years or so. i ran out of micro nutes about 2 weeks ago, and apparently the soil has no Molybdenum in it left, so the deficiency occured. This is really really not common, but when it does happen, this is what it will look like:


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## nick17gar (Aug 19, 2012)

ogtapus said:


> hello! our guide is very helpful.. but I cant figure out If my plant has a potassium defficiency... help?
> View attachment 2139812View attachment 2139813View attachment 2139817



first guess, id say yes, nitrogen and potassium are low. what stage is it in? early flower? up the phophorus too, and the micro nutes. plants requiere a LOT more of everything when switched to flower, and the awesomeness of soil is put to the test when flowering starts.


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## Growert9 (Aug 19, 2012)

*

I'm having a serious problem http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z1UObEuRsbY&feature=plcphttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LWjlu...feature=relmfu has gotten worse have been using 10 ml of cal mag every water along with bio bizz 15 bio bloom 10 bio grow 20 fish mix 10 bio heaven per gallon, watering everyday, there in fox farm ocean forest outdoor ph I've been balancing at 6.7. Wtf will post an updated video soon​
​

*


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## WeEd23 (Aug 20, 2012)

can someone tell me whats wrong with my plant
View attachment 2302659


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## Growert9 (Aug 20, 2012)

Dude what kind of light do you have on that?


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## WeEd23 (Aug 21, 2012)

100 watt light bulb and a grow light


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## WeEd23 (Aug 21, 2012)

this is my first time and i need a lil help


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## slayer6669 (Aug 22, 2012)

wow that thing needs way more light, maybe put it outside? the way it is now its not worth even trying to flower that thing inside with the lights you got


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## WeEd23 (Aug 23, 2012)

so wat watt do i need


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## slayer6669 (Aug 23, 2012)

you need to use some kind of light ment for growing like some cfls or t5s or MH or hps. it looks like you are using a regular house light to grow that


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## Tribalbandit (Aug 23, 2012)

Looks like its getting poor ligh, over waterting, i would just kill it. dont let the poor herb suffer. do some research invest in the right equipment then get ready to experience he greAtness in growing herb, looks like your just wasting your time.


WeEd23 said:


> can someone tell me whats wrong with my plant
> View attachment 2302659


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## slayer6669 (Aug 23, 2012)

i agree i dont think you are going to get shit out of that thing


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## WeEd23 (Aug 23, 2012)

so how logng dose it take to grow


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## WeEd23 (Aug 23, 2012)

i mean how long dose it take to grow?


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## slayer6669 (Aug 24, 2012)

as long as you grow it for and it depends on strain


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## Jumpstart (Aug 28, 2012)

Nick17gar - Magnesium (Mg): Wouldn't you also see redish purple stripping strating at base of plant? I noticed your leaf shot had a purple stem. Thats tell tell for (Mg) deficiency too. I could snap off a few pictures of the striping


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## BrianSD (Aug 28, 2012)

Hi, and sorry if this is in the wrong spot; my first post. First of all, this community is awesome. You've all offered up your experience and knowledge to juts about every question I've seen asked. Which brings me to this... We've been growing outside; our first grow. We've got a lot of different types growing, but recently noticed two things. 1) leaves and flowers on some of the plants are wilting(?) and crumbling up/off when touched. I've included some pic I just took. If anyone could help me diagnose what's going on/what I'm doing wrong I'd greatly appreciate it.


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## slayer6669 (Aug 29, 2012)

looks like you might have bud mold in pics 2 an 4. what kinda nutrients do you feed them? is it the whole plant or just certain stems on them?


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## BrianSD (Aug 29, 2012)

slayer6669 said:


> lol like you might have bud mold in pics 2 an 4. what kinda nutrients do you feed them? is it the whole plant or just certain stems on them?


Just let them grow wild with the exception of Miracle grow about once a week. And, it's just certain stems.


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## slayer6669 (Aug 29, 2012)

hmm maybe lay back on the mg for couple weeks, has it been wet and humid out alot where you are?


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## Gen.Crackhead (Aug 29, 2012)

*The bottom leaves of my plants have started to turn yellow with burns in some places . Iam currently using J arther bower compost with 6 weeks feed; as base soil under 400w MH bulb on 18/6 cycle. I recently transplanted the plants from their 2 liter pots to 5 gallon/ 20 liter pots on the 18th of Aug. i am also using a home made neem pesticide just as a precaution. can anybody plz tell me whether it is a nutrient burn or mg deficiency or some pest cuz i cant seem to get my head around the problem. i hope the pics help. *


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## GrowinTheDank (Aug 31, 2012)

Great thread! I learned a lot from it. I've been very confused about nutrients, but now it is all starting to become clear. I've bookmarked this and will use it as a reference just in case my plants start lookin sick.


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## Gen.Crackhead (Aug 31, 2012)

some fresh pics please help asap


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## nick17gar (Sep 1, 2012)

Jumpstart said:


> Nick17gar - Magnesium (Mg): Wouldn't you also see redish purple stripping strating at base of plant? I noticed your leaf shot had a purple stem. Thats tell tell for (Mg) deficiency too. I could snap off a few pictures of the striping


yes and no, some strains just have a darker red stem, its just part of the strain, thats why i dont mention it or try to go by it.


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## nick17gar (Sep 1, 2012)

Gen.Crackhead said:


> *The bottom leaves of my plants have started to turn yellow with burns in some places . Iam currently using J arther bower compost with 6 weeks feed; as base soil under 400w MH bulb on 18/6 cycle. I recently transplanted the plants from their 2 liter pots to 5 gallon/ 20 liter pots on the 18th of Aug. i am also using a home made neem pesticide just as a precaution. can anybody plz tell me whether it is a nutrient burn or mg deficiency or some pest cuz i cant seem to get my head around the problem. i hope the pics help. *


add more nitrogen, and add some micro nutes. make sure pH is 6.8, and you should be fine. I dont think its a mag deficiency, they are still vegging, and have a long way to go before micro nute deficiencies really start to show. you can add in some micro nutes, but the real issue is nitrogen

and if your indoors, you should top them, and get more yield. or you need to lower your lights, you got a LOT of stretch going on there 

another tip would be to start adding in some P and K, small amounts during veg really help prevent a lot of issues.


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## nick17gar (Sep 1, 2012)

GrowinTheDank said:


> Great thread! I learned a lot from it. I've been very confused about nutrients, but now it is all starting to become clear. I've bookmarked this and will use it as a reference just in case my plants start lookin sick.


cool, yea i check this thread often, if theres an actual emergency, send me a private message thru here and it goes to my phone. 

keep in mind, most of the times, its no emergency =)


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## Gen.Crackhead (Sep 1, 2012)

Thankx man ... i have added a 1.1.1 npk solution with added micro nutrients .. the ph is ideal 6.5 ---- i have a lot of stretching but i am worried about the temp that is the reason the light is almost a 1 1/2 feet away from the plants , it gets really hot in he place iam growing usual temp is around 30 to 35 C but often reaches 40 C... its a 400w mh. . the plants are in their 8th week of vegging from seed . i am really not sure about topping cuz some sites say it stuns the growth. but would give it a try on my clones . any other good advice would be appreciated. and thanks a lot....


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## nick17gar (Sep 3, 2012)

yea a foot and a half away is a pretty big distance, but yea i agree, thats still better then heat. I too have heat issues, i have to have my AC on cranking in the summers here (reaches 45C / 110F easily, for a few months). one trick for lowering heat is to mist them with distilled water, turn off the HID lamps, spray them down, wait 15 min, then turn them all back on. 


Cloning/topping does stunt growth, for 2 or 3 days, the plant will focus on healing the cut, and figuring out the new way of growing, but its worth it. I top them now all the time, and unless i start growing outside, i plan to keep doing so. besides, thats how ya get clones, and if ya get a strain you really like, you dont wanna flower it and be left empty handed. Clones make sure you get the same strain again and again. Also, taking the clone might stunt the growth of the mom for a few days, sure, but replanting the seed and waiting 3 weeks for it to be the size of the clone you would have taken.... is 3 weeks of more growing, and less smoking.


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## Gen.Crackhead (Sep 4, 2012)

thank on the info i feed then a 20/20/20 npk fetilizer and they seem to be recovering ....i guess it was nutes after all. the only thing is this is the first time im giving them nutes since seed . they have been growing in a compost with added nutes for 6 week ... sorry but i have another question ... one of my plants have started to preflower ... i just wanted to get a second opinion whether it is a female ... hope the pic helps. thanx a lot this thread has been a great help ...


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## hotrodharley (Sep 4, 2012)

Looks female to me.


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## Gen.Crackhead (Sep 5, 2012)

yessssssssssssssssssssssssss ..... thats happinesss!!!


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## king.kush420 (Sep 17, 2012)

I've been trying to find a little info, do you have any tips, know of any easy ways to adjust you pH in your soil? All i'v found was info about using lime and sulfur to adjust your pH. but it doesn't really say anything about whether i nee pure lime and sulfur or if i can use something with lime or sulfur in it. I'm sure i'm not the first person to ask this question, but any help would be great. thx.


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## nick17gar (Sep 19, 2012)

king.kush420 said:


> I've been trying to find a little info, do you have any tips, know of any easy ways to adjust you pH in your soil? All i'v found was info about using lime and sulfur to adjust your pH. but it doesn't really say anything about whether i nee pure lime and sulfur or if i can use something with lime or sulfur in it. I'm sure i'm not the first person to ask this question, but any help would be great. thx.



Hey, so theres a lot of ways to regulate pH

the idea is that you want it close to 6.5 all the time. Lime is good (comes as a powder, or little balls), becuase its a buffer, same as sulfur. What that means is that its pH is strong. No, i dont mean strong like very acidic, or very alkaline, but strong as in fixed. 

Lemons for example, are the opposite. Lemons are very acidic, but with a gallon of water, the resulting pH is very close to 7.0 A buffer, when added to other stuff, forces the other stuff to change over to its´ pH, instead of them mixing, and balancing each other out, or in the case of lemons, doing nothing really.

So what do ya do? get some lime, and add it in when you mix up your soil, whatever the directions are on the bag, those are probably fine. it doesnt take much. I also take the Ph of my nutrients, so i know how acidic/alkaline each is, and how it will react. 

The last step i take to ensure a good pH is i go to the petstore, and find some liquid buffer. The bottle that i find is for tropical fish, to keep the fish tanks at 6.5 pH. I use maybe 1 cap ful per 5L of nutrient solution, and water the plants with that. Ive never had pH fluctuate more then .1 or .2 since ive used this liquid. It rocks, and its only 5 or 10 bucks

I do stop adding everything not organic a week or 2 prior to harvest, to ensure a nice smooth taste. It really does make a difference. weed thats not properly flushed out is harsh, and after smoking a tree of it, youll want some throat drops. Best to stop a week or 2 before and prevent that. During those last 2 weeks, i try to stick to just plain water, some organic sugars, and if needed for pH, a teaspoon of lemon juice per 5 liters is usually enough to bring it down just a few tenths under 7.0

Make it easier for yourself, big pots, fresh dirt, and get that bottle of liquid ph buffer.


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## king.kush420 (Sep 19, 2012)

nick17gar said:


> Hey, so theres a lot of ways to regulate pH
> 
> the idea is that you want it close to 6.5 all the time. Lime is good (comes as a powder, or little balls), becuase its a buffer, same as sulfur. What that means is that its pH is strong. No, i dont mean strong like very acidic, or very alkaline, but strong as in fixed.
> 
> ...


wow, thx dude, that helps alot. there's a topical fish store down the street, i'll stop on teh way home from work tomorrow and pick some up. 



Here's a pick of my next grow. I'm posting it because of your comment about big pots. that last batch i did, i used smaller ones, thinking there were going to be good. but one day found my plants tipped over. so on theses one i bought these two planters, they are much heavy and about 50% larger then the ones i used before. you think these are big enough?

Edit: if you were wondering about the plants. they are Mango Kush, and 2 weeks from cutting. they've been in soil for a week, and have grown 3 inches.


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## pimpmasta4u (Sep 20, 2012)

*

Hello Guys !!! 

I wanted to see from you guys how is this looking now. I don't get how it's so tall but it's been like this now from couple weeks since it started budding !! Tell me what I need to do and how long will it take for these buds to grow so they can be smoke-able !!




It's the first grow so be eazy !! 

Cheers !!
View attachment 2342127

View attachment 2342130












​




*


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## jungleboy (Sep 23, 2012)

all my fan leaves are dying day by day im 6 weeks into flowering new fan leves are growing but drooping


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## Gen.Crackhead (Sep 24, 2012)

Help my clones are deforming ... i accidentally sprayed nutes as instead of water on my clones and the leaves have become dark and deformed.. please help


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## Chopsticks33 (Sep 25, 2012)

Please help me! why am i getting ROOT ROT with flood and drain system. im using 6x6 rock wool cubes on a 4x4 table. I flood it for about 8 min and take about 10 min to drain. I only feed it once a day, I know its root rot because on the bottom of the rock wool, the root are brown and have some rotten smell.. The rock wool stay kinda heavy also.. is it ok to feed it once every two day? Fan leaves are getting yellow now... I been getting root rot for the past 3 round. please help.


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## er0senin (Sep 29, 2012)

Chopsticks33 said:


> Please help me! why am i getting ROOT ROT with flood and drain system. im using 6x6 rock wool cubes on a 4x4 table. I flood it for about 8 min and take about 10 min to drain. I only feed it once a day, I know its root rot because on the bottom of the rock wool, the root are brown and have some rotten smell.. The rock wool stay kinda heavy also.. is it ok to feed it once every two day? Fan leaves are getting yellow now... I been getting root rot for the past 3 round. please help.


roots need more oxygen


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## biggdahl (Oct 3, 2012)

Can anyone help me? What is this?


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## ac19420 (Oct 3, 2012)

Why is there no pictures of what it would look like with a copper deficiency? I am wondering because I have a couple plants that seem to have leaves that are twisting. I have 24 plants and only a few of them are twisting. Everything is exactly the same for every plant so Im not sure why only a couple are doing it. I noticed it say that copper deficiency will have twisting.


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## marklee (Oct 4, 2012)

Thanks for sharing mate. This is pretty interesting.


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## nick17gar (Oct 5, 2012)

ac19420 said:


> Why is there no pictures of what it would look like with a copper deficiency? I am wondering because I have a couple plants that seem to have leaves that are twisting. I have 24 plants and only a few of them are twisting. Everything is exactly the same for every plant so Im not sure why only a couple are doing it. I noticed it say that copper deficiency will have twisting.



more likely is pH is causing this. whats going on? got pics? whats your pH? soil/dirt?


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## nick17gar (Oct 5, 2012)

pimpmasta4u said:


> *
> 
> Hello Guys !!!
> 
> ...


ummmmmm u need to lower the lights, or raise the amount of light in there, your plant looks like its stretching bad. whats the temperature in there? ph? 
otherwise, you got a ways to go, atleast a month.


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## nick17gar (Oct 5, 2012)

Chopsticks33 said:


> Please help me! why am i getting ROOT ROT with flood and drain system. im using 6x6 rock wool cubes on a 4x4 table. I flood it for about 8 min and take about 10 min to drain. I only feed it once a day, I know its root rot because on the bottom of the rock wool, the root are brown and have some rotten smell.. The rock wool stay kinda heavy also.. is it ok to feed it once every two day? Fan leaves are getting yellow now... I been getting root rot for the past 3 round. please help.



well if the rockwool is staying wet, then the roots are also staying wet. maybe you need to change out your rockwool, or elevate it so the excess water can drain out of it.

Also, if NOT in flower, you can try adding in some rot/fungus/mold killer, at half strength, to the reservoir to help. *do not do this in flower.*


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## ld9190 (Oct 7, 2012)

Hi guys, im on my 2nd grow and 1 week into flower, the strain is sour d, also have a kong next to it but the kong fine. Everything has been going good up until about 2 days ago when spots started to show up on 2 or 3 my leaves, mostly around the tips. Im using roots organic soil with house&garden nute line, under a 400w hps. the spots are a brownish yellow(kind of dry) and there is a dry spot on the underside of the leaf where the spot is on top. It just started so im not sure exactly what it is but i want to try to get rid of it before it gets worse. if anyone could please help!!!!!!!
View attachment 2364489


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## BurlingtonBam (Oct 7, 2012)

Hey guys, on my first grow, and just wondering how do you check the PH of your soil. I get how to check the water's ph, but that doesn't mean that's the soils PH. Can anyone tell me how to do it and what I will need please?


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## Xrangex (Oct 7, 2012)

http://www.growweedeasy.com/marijuana-symptoms


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## Chopsticks33 (Oct 10, 2012)

nick17gar said:


> well if the rockwool is staying wet, then the roots are also staying wet. maybe you need to change out your rockwool, or elevate it so the excess water can drain out of it.
> 
> Also, if NOT in flower, you can try adding in some rot/fungus/mold killer, at half strength, to the reservoir to help. *do not do this in flower.*


What kinda feeding schedule do you recommend? yes its 4 week flower. started around 2nd week..should i chop and start new


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## ceelo350 (Oct 10, 2012)

i dont know if any1 will get back to me in time but my ak47 hydro fem grow starting to go south heres some pics so to maybe get some help 
im using flora duo part a nute and part b have not used b(flowering)nute yet but have used a and i think i may have stupidly overloaded it last week 
anyway heres the pics please any advice on what i should do is appreciated im sure ull be able to tell the timeline of young to present being the worst looking plant and just so u know ive changed the water and added a teaspoon of epsom salt and am going to add some nitrogen tommorow mand i also cut back big on nutes i put a third of what i put last week maybe less i think i just over nuted it i mean yea the leaves were starting to turn yellow regardless so that why im here lol hopw some1 can help also my grwoth has stunted big time it really just sprouted up to a nice size compare to what it was before the big sprout persay and then nothing just stopped about 4 days ago and been the same and getting worse since please HELP!!!!!lol


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## nick17gar (Oct 12, 2012)

Chopsticks33 said:


> What kinda feeding schedule do you recommend? yes its 4 week flower. started around 2nd week..should i chop and start new


 Im not sure.

When i did hydro, i did DWC, where the plant was in the rockwool cube, in a strainer type pot full of hydroton balls. That was over the water, with the water circulating 24 hours a day. All was fine until one day i noticed root rot on one plant, that had started leaning and drooping. I noticed the roots had grown almost foot, and were just swimming in the water like pasta. Unlike pasta though, they were brown, smelly, and squishy! I ended up placing a screen under the mesh pots, and above the water line to catch the roots, and keep them suspended above the water. Yes, they were still wet, but the water didnt stay on the roots, the roots always were wet, but always exposed to air at the same time. Since then, i havent had any issues with root rot, (other then bad clones)

Speaking of the bad clones, i did buy a fungus/rot/mold killer. I mix it in at half strength and pour it in the reservoir, or onto the soil, or spray. I dont use it often, and when i do, its usually the last resort. but it works. (i wouldnt use this for anything in flower, its a chemical)

The other option is fighting mold or rot the old fashioned way, making the environment not as well suited. Adding in light (not on the roots, but base of the plant) helps, and adding heat helps (soil and hydro, air temp and water temp), and adding fresh, circulating air is always good. Think about athletes foot, same theory, the doc tells you to take your shoes off, keep your feet dry, and air them bitches out, thats a mold too, same theory...


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## nick17gar (Oct 12, 2012)

BurlingtonBam said:


> Hey guys, on my first grow, and just wondering how do you check the PH of your soil. I get how to check the water's ph, but that doesn't mean that's the soils PH. Can anyone tell me how to do it and what I will need please?


Soil pH.... well, if your not using one of the fancy electronic testers, your pretty much got 2 options, a less accurate non electronic testing method, or just add a strong buffer and hope it works out.

For testing it with litmus paper, or the drops that change color, or whatever, take a cup of 7.0 water, add in about 1/4th cup of soil, mix it read hard, let it sit for a while so all the shit in it precipitates (falls to the bottom). then test the water. This is a slurry test.

Even less accurate is the run off test. get a pot of soil, add water, test the water that comes out.

and if you really have no way of testing it, get dolomitic lime, follow instructions. that should bring the pH back close to 7.0 (most of the times, your raising the pH of the soil)

http://www.allotment.org.uk/grow-your-own/fertiliser/garden-lime


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## oldsoul86 (Oct 12, 2012)

*

im in my 3rd week of flowering a single outdoor plant. ive had this problem with indoor plants and am not sure if its natural or a nitrogen/ other nutrient deficiency, or a ph problem. about 2-3 weeks into the flowering process the bigger, older leaves at the bottom of the plant are yellowing, almost the entire leaf. i know that when older leaves begin to yellow between the veins that a nitrogen deficiency is probably the reason, if ph is not the problem. anyone know if this is natural in flowering or if there is a deficiency?​




*


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## farmit420 (Oct 24, 2012)

bro you have put up some great info for everyone... thank you


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## farmit420 (Oct 24, 2012)

another great thread with reputable info... thanks again man! keep it green broskie


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## CaLiKiD24 (Oct 25, 2012)

hey guys. have an ongoing problem, mainly with the fan leaves and didn't know which way to go about besides flush. 
In day 13 of flower and haven't been going crazy on nutes, and my light's 24+in above the plants. Was thinking Ca or Mn def.
View attachment 2385859
Sorry the pick isnt the greatest but you can see the problem all around.....


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## ag843 (Nov 4, 2012)

View attachment 2398307View attachment 2398309View attachment 2398310

this is my first grow. i have read through this post and while it has been informative it seems to be speaking of matured plants. im having issues with my very young plants..only a few weeks old. started out and all was good. plants were starting to show 2nd set of leaves but then they all started drooping at the stems, leaves curling and now im seeing yellow spots and im afraid they gonna die. im trying everything, more water, less water, more light, less light...and im clueless. i think the error was on my part in the beginning as i had my lights about 2 feet from my young leaves causing the stems to stretch. i lowered to about 5inches from the now so i have addressed that issue. i was watering 3x a day with a timer 8hrs apart, lights on 24 a day, fan blowing on low. ph is around 5.8-6.1 or so. im doing a hydro/rock wool setup with a drip watering system about half hr at a time. temp is about 68-72. 5x3 grow room with 3 4ft flourescents. any and all help is appreciated. i needed to fig this out before they die...anyone??


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## happypap (Nov 4, 2012)

what would be the best way to start geting nitrogen back into a plant if the problem ocures


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## nick17gar (Nov 8, 2012)

oldsoul86 said:


> *
> 
> im in my 3rd week of flowering a single outdoor plant. ive had this problem with indoor plants and am not sure if its natural or a nitrogen/ other nutrient deficiency, or a ph problem. about 2-3 weeks into the flowering process the bigger, older leaves at the bottom of the plant are yellowing, almost the entire leaf. i know that when older leaves begin to yellow between the veins that a nitrogen deficiency is probably the reason, if ph is not the problem. anyone know if this is natural in flowering or if there is a deficiency?​
> 
> ...


its nitrogen deficiency, which is normal to see during flowering, but no, its not good.


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## nick17gar (Nov 8, 2012)

CaLiKiD24 said:


> hey guys. have an ongoing problem, mainly with the fan leaves and didn't know which way to go about besides flush.
> In day 13 of flower and haven't been going crazy on nutes, and my light's 24+in above the plants. Was thinking Ca or Mn def.
> View attachment 2385859
> Sorry the pick isnt the greatest but you can see the problem all around.....


hm whats the PH? what are you feeding? how long since you flushed last?


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## nick17gar (Nov 8, 2012)

ag843 said:


> View attachment 2398307View attachment 2398309View attachment 2398310
> 
> this is my first grow. i have read through this post and while it has been informative it seems to be speaking of matured plants. im having issues with my very young plants..only a few weeks old. started out and all was good. plants were starting to show 2nd set of leaves but then they all started drooping at the stems, leaves curling and now im seeing yellow spots and im afraid they gonna die. im trying everything, more water, less water, more light, less light...and im clueless. i think the error was on my part in the beginning as i had my lights about 2 feet from my young leaves causing the stems to stretch. i lowered to about 5inches from the now so i have addressed that issue. i was watering 3x a day with a timer 8hrs apart, lights on 24 a day, fan blowing on low. ph is around 5.8-6.1 or so. im doing a hydro/rock wool setup with a drip watering system about half hr at a time. temp is about 68-72. 5x3 grow room with 3 4ft flourescents. any and all help is appreciated. i needed to fig this out before they die...anyone??



ok so what you need to do, is either transplant them, into pots, and put the soil 2inches from the bottom leaves. OR, add in something to hold them up. either way, lower the lights if you can


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## berad4guvna (Nov 12, 2012)

Thanks, great chart.


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## roachfinder (Nov 14, 2012)

ok I need some help. my leaves are turning more and more brown. it started at the bottom and now the top leaves. it looks like a phosphorus and mg. problem now that i see this, but i thought i was over-fertilizing my plants. how can you tell the difference?


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## roachfinder (Nov 14, 2012)

and maybe (k)? ill have to put some pics on here when the lights come on. Hopefully there are growers on here that will be able to tell what the problem is.


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## roachfinder (Nov 15, 2012)

View attachment 2411535View attachment 2411536View attachment 2411537View attachment 2411538View attachment 2411539View attachment 2411540these just fell off.


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## roachfinder (Nov 16, 2012)

ok i read if you have wood ash your ph go's up. I just checked my soil ph and it shot past 0. how the hell is that possible?


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## roachfinder (Nov 18, 2012)

the phosforus, potassium and mg deficancy are my problem, but it looks exactly like a burn. how can you tell the difference if they look the same? i tried flushing just now and one of them had whit foam or something at the top of the water. any ideas and/or help?????


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## Smoke911 (Nov 18, 2012)

what is good for a potassium deficiency?


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## doogleef (Nov 19, 2012)

Roach ... That's a deff. What are you feeding it? How old is it? Size pot? Size light? Temp? Need details.


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## roachfinder (Nov 19, 2012)

ok so i know for a fact they are root bound. they are barley gallon size pots. my nutrients is awsome...advanced nutrients: sensi bloom, bud candy and some carbo load. its well into the 6th week of flowering. actually just started its 7th week. i have 3 23w cfls and 3 19w cfl's, 2 2' florecent tubes and one 4' florecent tube. the humidity is about 50. sometimes gets to 70. the temp is about 80-82. but the weridest thing of all, is i have have a device that reads ph and fertility.....it has prongs so i had to carefully put it down the side so i wouldnt rip the roots, and it worked except the ph shot past 0. ppl said its broke, so i tried it on my house plants and the aloe plant had a ph of 7.5.....so i know it works..how the hell is that possible though???


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## roachfinder (Nov 19, 2012)

oh yea....my tall plant is still not growing bud. it keeps growing pistols and stems. thats it. I lollipopped both my plants and i super-cropped the tall one. but no bud. the tall one only has curled tips and one leave has a white tip. the other plant, which you seen its leaves...is growing bud.


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## doogleef (Nov 19, 2012)

Wow. Not sure where to start....First, it sounds like you spent more on your nutrients than you did you actual setup. I recommend a real light and a fan to maintain circulation and exhaust. CFLs can grow buds for some people on some strains. Most of the time it is an epic failure. CFLs are ok for veg time. Bloom needs real light. PH issues in soil are really rare. Soil contains buffers that generally return it to about 7. That said, 1 gallon is not much so you could have dropped yer PH down with your nutes. Is that sensiBloom got the "PH Perfect" stuff that AN is pimping now?


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## xscottrox (Nov 19, 2012)

So she is about two months old i think, overall she looks healthy to me. I'm a newbie for sure. Temps are hovering around 75F lights on and around 68 to 70F during lights off. Relative humidity fluctuates but is usually really low anywhere from 15% to 40% usually around 20% + or - 5%. I have been using the house brand from my local hydro store for nutes, (David's). I have been using them at half strength w/ tap water ph adjusted to 6.0. Ph of the rockwool cube is around 6.8. I know that I need to lower the overall ph and also to use some filtered water, I'm working on it. I do not have a ppm meter unfortunately so I'm not sure how full of crap the tap water im using is. I think this is a Magnesium Deficiency from looking at the pics but I'm not sure and I need advice please.For some reason i can't add pics. will try again later.


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## doogleef (Nov 19, 2012)

Mg def is very common when growing MJ. What are the ratios on the feed you are using? It should be on the bottle label. Need the N-P-K Mg-Ca-S


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## xscottrox (Nov 19, 2012)

Total Nitrogen (N) 2.8% , Calcium (Ca) 3.8% , Sulfur (S) 1.2% for the grow solution. Total Nitrogen (N) 1.6%, Available Phosphate (P2O5) 1.8%, Soluble Potash (K2O) 7.4%, Total Magnesium (Mg) 2.4%, Manganese (Mn) 0.017%, Iron (Fe) 0.1%, Boron (B) 0.016%, Zinc (Zn) 0.005%, Molybdenum (Mo) 0.004%, Sodium (Na) 0.64%, Sulfur (S) 0.64% for the base solution. Hope that helps.


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## doogleef (Nov 20, 2012)

kinda high in K but looks like a decent fert. 2.4% MG is more than you get in some CalMag supplements. Bump up the feed to correct deficiencies.


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## piecemasta (Nov 24, 2012)

I have had the same reoccurring deficiency for the past several grows during both veg and flower phases.
After reviewing several posts including the Guide to Nutrient Deficiency and Toxicity thread I believe it to be both a potassium and magnesium deficiency.
I was hoping to hear from some growers who have more experienced then it when it comes to this aspect. 
I will measure runoff ph and ppm as soon as I get a chance.

Specs:
-indoor
-Strain: DJ Short's BlueBerry (first 4 pics) and a True OG (final 5th pic)
-pro-mix hp (premix 10gals of promix w/ 2 tblsp of dolomite lime and ironite from Home Depot)
-feed using RO water
-pictures are of 4 week old plants vegging
-soil drenched once every third or fourth day depending on each plants water uptake
-nutrients every other watering at half strength using Pure blend Pro grow, silica blast, & liquid karma


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## jaubry777 (Nov 25, 2012)

EXACTLY what i needed. will be solving my potassium problem immediately. thanks!


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## doogleef (Nov 25, 2012)

piecemasta said:


> I have had the same reoccurring deficiency for the past several grows during both veg and flower phases.
> After reviewing several posts including the Guide to Nutrient Deficiency and Toxicity thread I believe it to be both a potassium and magnesium deficiency.
> I was hoping to hear from some growers who have more experienced then it when it comes to this aspect.
> I will measure runoff ph and ppm as soon as I get a chance.
> ...


Add some Cal/Mag and maybe bump up from 1/2 strength on the PBP. It's pretty mild stuff compared to some of the other stuff on the market. 

If you are folding in Lime anyway (great PH control) then I would just fold in some other stuff and make it a water only deal. Ditch the bottled nutes all together. But that's just me... lazy old stoner


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## xscottrox (Nov 25, 2012)

So this is the pic I was going to post the other day of what I beleived to be a magnesium def. I am still unsure and would like your opinion please. I started watering with full strength nutes a few days ago but I haven't had much time to inspect her recently. Will look again today to see if she has improved. Thanks again for your input.


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## doogleef (Nov 25, 2012)

Almost looks like a leftover from the clone process? Nothing major at any rate.


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## roachfinder (Nov 26, 2012)

yea ive grown like 4 times and everytime I use cfl's. the only thing holding me back from a hps is money....or else i would have got a son agro 430 w. But every other time ive grown its succesfull. i just make sure the lights are really close so i get good internode stem length. and a decent amount of lummons. 
But i just got a big ass pot, its at least 5 gallons, but i dont have enough dirt. i got some dirt from my fire pit with all the ashes, and a lil bit of organic dirt. i dont know which one to replant. the plant with the bigger pot has some good buds on it now but the one with the tiny pot is very tall but has NO buds...and its week 7. oh yea....and i have 2 fans. one is moving all the time.


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## roachfinder (Nov 26, 2012)

oh yea.....the sensibloom does say ph perfect...at 6.3


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## Indian Summer (Nov 26, 2012)

Thanks for the information guys..............I need it badly !!!


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## roachfinder (Nov 27, 2012)

i got 4 more cfl's at 1600 lumons a peice. now i have 10. and the 2 florecent tubes and 1 4' florecent tube. so there is 13,900 lumons in the cfl's alone. and i transplanted both of them. i got my hands on some coco roots. and addd that with some perlite and dirt/ash from the fire pit. ph is 7 now. the big pot is at least 5 gallons. the tall plant was in a tiny 1 qt. pot haha but now its in a 1.5 gallon poy. hopefully it grows bud now.


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## jamiefoster (Nov 27, 2012)

wht is the current price of marijuana in international market.


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## xscottrox (Nov 29, 2012)

I had what I beleived to be a magnesium deficiency. I'm not so sure anymore if that is it or if it is a burn of some sort. If anyone could help me I would greatly appreciate it. I water once every 2-3 days about a half a gallon of ph adjusted tap water. Ph is usually from 5.5 to 6.0. I do not have a tds / ec meter so I'm not too sure what the ppm of my water is (this is pretty foolish, I know). I use nutes every other feeding (david's/simple path). I was using only half strength but switched to full strength too see if this would solve my problem. It seems as if it is spreading. I made a post with more information a few days ago but wasn't able to put pics up.


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## roachfinder (Nov 29, 2012)

you should never have ur ph hit 5.5 the lowest is 6 but 6.3-6.8 or so is the best. ph of 5.5 can cause a deficancy


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## givememeganja (Nov 30, 2012)

yea but looks like hes in RW


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## roachfinder (Nov 30, 2012)

The first plant isnt growing bud and i dont know why. its almost week 8 in flowering. And the 2nd plant i dont know if its a burn or deficancy. anyone know??


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## doogleef (Nov 30, 2012)

Dense buds require real lighting. I mentioned this before but CFLs will not give you the kind of results you are looking for. 

From the looks of it you are least 4-5 weeks from done.


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## roachfinder (Dec 1, 2012)

hell yea! i know that. i just dont know the problem. and for being lite with cfl's....there is alot of light. but yea i need better. and i think that one plant will grow for like 2 months at least. maybe more. ive NEVER heard of a sativa taking 16+ weeks but i guess it will.
Oh yea...i know u told me before but now that i have really good pics are you still thinking its a deficancy??


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## doogleef (Dec 1, 2012)

Keep in mind that lumens aren't cumulative. Adding more lamps does not increase output. Just the footprint you can light. 

Think about it like 2 taking 2 flashlights and putting them together. It doesn't get twice as bright. Just wider. 

Sativas can take 14-16-18 sometimes depending on strain and environment.


It actually looks a bit burnt at the tips, Long flower ladies tend to be light feeders


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## roachfinder (Dec 1, 2012)

i didnt know that. so now you think they are burnt?


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## roachfinder (Dec 1, 2012)

i also see red dots. isnt that calcium deficancy?


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## doogleef (Dec 2, 2012)

Red dots can be a minor cal def but the cooked tips are from a N overfert.


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## WAZZER (Dec 2, 2012)

hello all i have problem the last 4 grows in the 4th week of flower ph has droped to about 5 in the run off ec keeps rising even after i ran .5water ph 5.9 for three days and then flushed them to run off .6 ec the next day gave water .5 ec and the runoff was 1.0 leaves start going yellow and fall off from bottom 70% coco 30% perlite one inch clay balls on bottom ive talked to alot of hydro shops no won can give me an answer serched on line as well theres got to be some one out there thats had this problem i think i have to raise that ph in the medium for those chemicals to be available my first post take it easy on me cherrs


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## doogleef (Dec 2, 2012)

Welcome to RIU!

Yellow leaves starting at the bottom and working thier way up is a Nitrogen def. What Are you feeding it? 

EC or PPM can be important tools to look at but the balance of the salts in that measurement are more vital.


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## WAZZER (Dec 2, 2012)

thanks for your reply looks like you been around long time i talked to a couple people and one come up with bacterial draw down thats why he said you were right about the nitrogen deficency his saying the coco is breaking down ,i talked to a canna rep his going to email canna in holland see what they say but ive seen on a couple sites people have the same problem with other medium even recurculating system, the guy that said about the bacterial draw down said to stay away from coco just go perlite vermiculite mix recurculating or growool because of the climate what do you reckon doogleef


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## WAZZER (Dec 2, 2012)

by the way i didnt metion i use a local made a n b flower some local root conditioner potash and a bottle of vitamin b edhha all those hormone things i just do it simple i spent big money on canna and h&g did not fix any thing, my veg is perfect start low ec and then go to about 1.2to1.4 flower 1.6 to 1.8 temps 28 lights on off 24 humidiy 40 to 55 veg for 4 weeks flower for 8 in 14 litre pots thought it might be pot size but just ran 30l tried different stains some are sronger than others in going less pale to yellow ive got two of the strongest strain white rhino and power plant she is a beast the power the rhino has filled up but the power i dont she will fill up . im pulling the pin after this won until i sort it out im a conasoir you have a good run for years but it can come crushing down on ya i cant go through the truma any more any won can help to fix my problem ill throw a gift your way. cheers


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## doogleef (Dec 3, 2012)

As long as you are keeping it out of the pumps then coco is fine in a recirc system. Any fiber degradation is happening much slower than anyone should care about. 

As long as your nutes have a decent mix of NPK I would just up the feed a bit to prevent early fading. You may want to run veg nutes or 1/2 and 1/2 veg/bloom for the first few weeks of bloom until the stretch is over. It will help keep your lower leaves green and attached. 

Cheers.


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## roachfinder (Dec 4, 2012)

well dam. if i have a 2-part fertilizer, you think i could just not give it nearly as much with the high n, which i think is part A, and just have part B, be normal??


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## macdaddyDAX (Dec 7, 2012)

im going to try epsom salt for the magnesium deficiency it seems to have. have you or anybody else used that?


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## doogleef (Dec 7, 2012)

macdaddyDAX said:


> im going to try epsom salt for the magnesium deficiency it seems to have. have you or anybody else used that?


Sure. I've used it to correct def and I use it in my soil mix as a Mg source. 1 tsp / gallon.


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## makinherown\ (Dec 15, 2012)

Is the picture under nitrogen a good color or a bad color? The post doesn't specify
Thanks


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## Guitar Man (Dec 18, 2012)

This is an excellent Thread! I didnt have time to read through all of the comments, but I would like to say 1 thing about nutes and MJ plants: I think many people panic when their plant begins to change at the end of its life, just like I have. After wearing out my fingers typing online to find out what was wrong with my poor MJ plant(s), the best advice I found was this: When your grow is winding down for harvest, the whole plant will change color. DONT FUCKING PANIC!!!

Right now, my plants are approaching chop/chop time, and the leaves and buds are doing what they always do; change when they die. IMO, the biggest thing to consider when wondering about a nute problem IS: how far along is my grow? This can take a ton of stress off of anyones back who is in panic mode over color differences that are inevitable.


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## smellzlikeskunkyum (Dec 19, 2012)

Great Advice. Ill be using this myself!!
Man sometimes the nonsense and trolling makes me want to give up on RIU. Threads like these make up for it a bit tho, thank you OP.

I have good luck using *BLACKSTRAP ORGRANIC MOLASSES *and *EPSOM SALTS *when i need to add a little of something. anyone one else use these? ive been getting away without buying any decent ferts or nutes. i think i may have to break down and get some good nutes soon tho. 

maybe some more comments on ways to fix the problems would help also, like maybe cheap alternatives as well as common nutes.


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## hereshegrows (Dec 21, 2012)

I'm on my first soil grow but I have helped out with a hydro grow for many years. I was doing quite well up until my third week in bud. Half my plants (the larger ones) started showing deficiencies that I could identify from the illustrations the kind people on here took their time to post. I made a few adjustments to no avail and then realized it was likely that my plants needed a larger container. I moved them from a 5gal bag to a 7gal bag. It's been two days and I am noticing signs of improvement. My plants were not much larger than yours Druid23...good luck.


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## SpectatorFernFirm (Dec 25, 2012)

nick17gar said:


> these should help too:
> 
> View attachment 1894317View attachment 1894318


I would like to start by saying Ty for this post it's helped me a lot thru my grow lol. My Q is that I have something going on that looks like maybe phos dif but not sure. It looks like someone came and scraped parts off of the top and mid fan leaves. Not all the way thru just the green top part of leaf... I'm really confused as not much has changed. I up the nutes some but when that started I diluted them. 

Also I have 2 PH meters that are dialed in with same solution so they read pretty much the same maybe .1- .2 difference but nothing more. In the plant having issues water one reads 5.0 and other reads 5.6! Wtf is that all about, idk. In my other bucket it reads about the same as they both fluctuate in that res. I would post a pic but lights off so tomorrow I could after Xmas time with family. 

Any help would be awesome. I am running a dro setup in case that matters. 

Happy holidays to all and may it be a safe one as well!!!


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## FireWater420 (Dec 27, 2012)

Is this Iron or Nitrogen Def??? Can someone help please
View attachment 2456930


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## doogleef (Dec 28, 2012)

Neither. It's normal for new growth to be lighter i color. Especially in heavy veg or early flower stages


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## Chopsticks33 (Jan 2, 2013)

Anyone that can help me with this problem. I notice i had some pretty good amount of light leak in 2 area. The problem has been fix but not my girls. it been about 4 week into flowering and no bud yet. they are growing kinda funny. the top bud area has long vine with little hair on it. long skinny bud formation? can they be retarded from the light leak? will dutch master reverse save them? no sign of hermie. The girls are girl scott cookie. Should i chop them and start new? its looking really healthy and The steam are really thick. have anyone experience this before? Please help


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## doogleef (Jan 2, 2013)

Pix are usually required to diagnose stuff like this. You may just have a really long run sativa. Especially if you are running fluro or LED lighting.


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## greencorral19 (Jan 2, 2013)

Hey doc I have a medical emergency on my hands now. Had this micro grow going for a while now and my girls should be ready in about a week or two but the browning and yellowing is starting to get rather intense and I dont want to blow it right at the finish line. If you look at the reference photo I have 3 different strains with 2 similar problems and one completely different. I think there may be either a mag or zinc deficiency but its hard to tell because of the intense yellowing and the dark green brown on Big Bang could be a Nitrogen abundance but I cant be sure which is why im consulting the pros. Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.


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## Chopsticks33 (Jan 2, 2013)

Them girls are under 2 1000k hps lamp. My buddy had light leak and his girls didnt flower for 2 month so he chopped.Ill try to get a pic. I dont want to use my phone camera.


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## Chopsticks33 (Jan 2, 2013)

greencorral19 said:


> Hey doc I have a medical emergency on my hands now. Had this micro grow going for a while now and my girls should be ready in about a week or two but the browning and yellowing is starting to get rather intense and I dont want to blow it right at the finish line. If you look at the reference photo I have 3 different strains with 2 similar problems and one completely different. I think there may be either a mag or zinc deficiency but its hard to tell because of the intense yellowing and the dark green brown on Big Bang could be a Nitrogen abundance but I cant be sure which is why im consulting the pros. Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.
> View attachment 2464254View attachment 2464255
> View attachment 2464256View attachment 2464257View attachment 2464258


u may need to flush till finish.


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## doogleef (Jan 2, 2013)

greencorral19 said:


> Hey doc I have a medical emergency on my hands now. Had this micro grow going for a while now and my girls should be ready in about a week or two but the browning and yellowing is starting to get rather intense and I dont want to blow it right at the finish line. If you look at the reference photo I have 3 different strains with 2 similar problems and one completely different. I think there may be either a mag or zinc deficiency but its hard to tell because of the intense yellowing and the dark green brown on Big Bang could be a Nitrogen abundance but I cant be sure which is why im consulting the pros. Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.
> View attachment 2464254View attachment 2464255
> View attachment 2464256View attachment 2464257View attachment 2464258



Cal/Mag deficiency. At this point I would not worry about it too much. Just try to correct for it next time around.


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## Chopsticks33 (Jan 3, 2013)

Here is some pic. 
seem like its still vegging. flower been that size for week. im using 2 1k hps lamp.


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## doogleef (Jan 3, 2013)

Those look closer to 2 weeks along than 4 weeks. Just starting to set bud sites good. Not a lot you can do other than wait for them. 
They look healthy otherwise. Just slow. 
Watch for hermi signs (bananas) due to the stress of the light leak.


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## Chopsticks33 (Jan 3, 2013)

If i wait another week and they still look the same then should I chop it and start over? what can i do? my buddy had experience that before and he waited 2 month and they still look like 2 week into flower. What will cause them girls not to bud in 2 month of flowering?


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## doogleef (Jan 3, 2013)

Don't pull them and just be patient. They will finish on their own schedule.


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## Chopsticks33 (Jan 4, 2013)

it seem like they are growing more leaves then buds at this point. It just dont look right. My last grow look nothing like this. I don't know is it worth waiting if the end result are small leafy buds.


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## majek (Jan 5, 2013)

Chopsticks33 said:


> it seem like they are growing more leaves then buds at this point. It just dont look right. My last grow look nothing like this. I don't know is it worth waiting if the end result are small leafy buds.


They are just slow bloomers, give them lots of time and make sure there no light is leaking through during the dark period. Some sativa dom strains have more leaves than calyxes its a genetic thing.


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## doogleef (Jan 6, 2013)

Long run sativas can be maddening, but it will finish and it will likely produce pretty well. They won't be the densest bud you have seen but it will be ok. 

Patience... You can't rush dank. 

What you don;t need to do is start looking for some magic sauce solution in a bottle. I've seen that happen time and time again. Don't do it. All the high P boosters out there are not your friend.


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## Chopsticks33 (Jan 7, 2013)

oops i had chopped it. i just cant gamble with this. Thanks all for your help! quick question.e*

Is jack classic 20-20-20 all purpose and 10-30-20 bloom booster good with coco? Ill be adding 1/4 teaspoon of epson salt per gallon water also. I really cant afford to buy new nutes right now. I been having unsuccessful grow the past year. Root rot with dwc!! I hope this will work out. Thanks all for helping!​




*


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## Sincerely420 (Jan 9, 2013)

That purp is def. normal and those are def. lady parts! Cheers to that fact!

Flower when the she's a little less than half the height you want her to finish at is my opinion!
That's a discretion call that you can make better than anyone on here I bet


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## KendeFyah (Jan 13, 2013)

so i wanna say thanks a bunch to *nick17gar* for producing the bomb nutrient def. map. like they say, same info is on elsewhere on riu, but this is very easy to follow, nice & short & to the point. i must say that almost all my nute-problems have been because of heat, overfert, or pH (apart from some nitrogen defs that was because of trouble in communication between me, the soil & a nutrient schedule ).

So yea, i have a question aswell: i know nitrogen defs. + a little bit shittier looking plants are to be expected at the end of the cycle, but necrotic leaves that start from the tips, hows that? could be from heat aswell? or is it some deficiency? peace bredas, keep it growing


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## smellzlikeskunkyum (Jan 13, 2013)

can someone show a PICTURE of damage from chlorine?? im almost positive my plants got shocked from chlorine, as i noticed it was super strong all of a sudden the past couple days. 
i think i screwed up and used water that i thought had sat out a few days to evap the chlorine, but had not.

now my leaves on especially my blue widow, which ive grown before, look almost like they are showing nute burn. and in the past this thing ate a ton of nutes and kept coming.

only reason im not convinced about the chlorine is because i began using new nutes this time as well. so i figure i may have made a mistake and over ferted just a tad. 
roots organics buddha bloom and buddha grow, along with their trinity bio catalyst.
roots organics original potting mix. perlite added.

i dont have a very good pic right now, ill have to get one up tomorrow. the only one i have is with the hps on, and its hard to see.

here is a pic from jan 8 when it was MAYBE just barely starting to show any signs of a burn from nutes at the tips.


but basically overnight after i watered with the water thats in question, the plant developed the yellow burns on the leaves.


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## Dadrad (Jan 15, 2013)

Awesome information!!! This is better than most of the "paid" info out there. Man, thanks a lot!!! Another reason to love the ganja community, and legalize pot!!!


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## mike.hotel (Jan 16, 2013)

Wish I would have found this earlier. Thanks man, good stuff.


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## nick17gar (Jan 17, 2013)

SORRY FOLKS! i moved and my internet company hasnt come installed my service yet, apparently, taking forever is ok...?

Thanks for your comments, im glad the thread is still helping people.

Ill be back on here as soon as i have service again (hopefully the next week or 2), posting pics of the many many plants i have now in this big ass house, and trying to help you guys not kill your plants.
send me a message thru here, it should go to my phone, and ill try to 'borrow' wifi long enough to answer it.

Take it easy, happy growing!


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## nick17gar (Jan 17, 2013)

yup chlorine burn will show as nute burn, let your tap water sit for atleast 30 minutes before using, up to 3 days! or, if your like me, get some chlorine remover from your local fish tank store.



smellzlikeskunkyum said:


> can someone show a PICTURE of damage from chlorine?? im almost positive my plants got shocked from chlorine, as i noticed it was super strong all of a sudden the past couple days.
> i think i screwed up and used water that i thought had sat out a few days to evap the chlorine, but had not.
> 
> now my leaves on especially my blue widow, which ive grown before, look almost like they are showing nute burn. and in the past this thing ate a ton of nutes and kept coming.
> ...


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## nick17gar (Jan 17, 2013)

Chopsticks33 said:


> Please help me! why am i getting ROOT ROT with flood and drain system. im using 6x6 rock wool cubes on a 4x4 table. I flood it for about 8 min and take about 10 min to drain. I only feed it once a day, I know its root rot because on the bottom of the rock wool, the root are brown and have some rotten smell.. The rock wool stay kinda heavy also.. is it ok to feed it once every two day? Fan leaves are getting yellow now... I been getting root rot for the past 3 round. please help.


yea more oxygen, more air. are the roots sitting in water constantly? thats your problem, try adding in a netting or something to elevate the roots, you want them moist, but not swimming.


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## nick17gar (Jan 17, 2013)

Chopsticks33 said:


> Anyone that can help me with this problem. I notice i had some pretty good amount of light leak in 2 area. The problem has been fix but not my girls. it been about 4 week into flowering and no bud yet. they are growing kinda funny. the top bud area has long vine with little hair on it. long skinny bud formation? can they be retarded from the light leak? will dutch master reverse save them? no sign of hermie. The girls are girl scott cookie. Should i chop them and start new? its looking really healthy and The steam are really thick. have anyone experience this before? Please help


light leaks arent usually a big issue, i open the doors to mine and let light in all the time...

there are ways to help flower harder tho. Boost the flowering nutes P, K. Turn the time back even more, instead of 12/12, try 11/13 (great for making the bitch realize its time to flower) or even 10/14 (closer to harvest this is great)

long skinny buds could mean you need more light during the 'day', could also mean the heat is too high (making airy buds)

never, never chop early. unless you know its gonna die, or theres a serious infestation of bugs, or your parents are coming to visit (even then, harvest an hour before they pull into the driveway)


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## nick17gar (Jan 17, 2013)

what are you temps at? the leaves seem to taco a bit, bending upwards... (its a natural occurance, they do it to hold water on the leaf, to keep the temp down), if the temp isnt over 85 degrees, try adding in fans, maybe the temps are uneven.
Nitrogen you say? why are you still feeding lots of nitrogen during end stages of flowering? 

and yea mag or zinc should be added really to every flowering plant unless your soil kicks major ass.

overall it looks good, i dunno why you tink its ready in a week or 2...but yea youll get high 



greencorral19 said:


> Hey doc I have a medical emergency on my hands now. Had this micro grow going for a while now and my girls should be ready in about a week or two but the browning and yellowing is starting to get rather intense and I dont want to blow it right at the finish line. If you look at the reference photo I have 3 different strains with 2 similar problems and one completely different. I think there may be either a mag or zinc deficiency but its hard to tell because of the intense yellowing and the dark green brown on Big Bang could be a Nitrogen abundance but I cant be sure which is why im consulting the pros. Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.
> View attachment 2464254View attachment 2464255
> View attachment 2464256View attachment 2464257View attachment 2464258


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## snatchit (Jan 27, 2013)

nitrogen abundence? View attachment 2498556


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## snatchit (Jan 27, 2013)

View attachment 2498568
Guys is this nitrogen abundance?


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## snatchit (Jan 27, 2013)

View attachment 2498568
Guys is this nitrogen abundance?


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## doogleef (Jan 29, 2013)

Watering issue.


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## Doobiest (Jan 31, 2013)

This is a great thread, no doubt!


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## newcultivator (Feb 5, 2013)

> You want green leaves, but not a dark green


I disagree with this. I was taught that dark deep green leaves is where you want your plants to be, as this was a sign of healthy nutrient flow to the roots. Jorge Cervanties says it as well; he's on this cite in "Grow Videos".

I have 13 ladies right now that are reaching for the stars and are thriving and healthy. They are deep in green color. I've even flushed them (as I do every 3-4 weeks) and they are still deep in color. Can you please source your information? a link would be suffice, as to where it says that deep green leafs are too rich in nitrogen?

Thanks,

NC
View attachment 1894153


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## Bakatare666 (Feb 5, 2013)

newcultivator said:


> I disagree with this. I was taught that dark deep green leaves is where you want your plants to be, as this was a sign of healthy nutrient flow to the roots. Jorge Cervanties says it as well; he's on this cite in "Grow Videos".
> 
> I have 13 ladies right now that are reaching for the stars and are thriving and healthy. They are deep in green color. I've even flushed them (as I do every 3-4 weeks) and they are still deep in color. Can you please source your information? a link would be suffice, as to where it says that deep green leafs are too rich in nitrogen?
> 
> ...


Here's a chart that I use for reference.View attachment 2513062


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## mel frank (Feb 21, 2013)

Zinc deficiency is easy to distinguish from iron deficiency, but both, and manganese deficiency too, should all be treated at the same time with a product like Ironite, which contains all three. This first image shows four plants two afghani and two sativas to show various degrees of iron deficiencies. Notice leaves are normal size--veins remain green while tissue between veins yellows or whitens, starting at their base. Second image show Zn deficiency next to iron deficiency. Notice that the top growing shoot is distorted, with a *telltale right angle twist* to a leaf blade (often, but not always). Leaf surfaces are often corrugated, and growing shoot is always undersized. Look closely at the bottom left tiny growing shoot in third image to see a severe Zn deficiency.
 
All three of these deficiencies start at the growing shoots because, unlike most major nutrients, these micronutrients aren't mobile in the plant--the plant can't move them to where they're most needed, as happens with the three major nutrients. Incidentally, I don't have an good image available for manganese deficiency, but had a grower back in the 70s that continually had a problem devastating his plants. It turned out to be manganese, confirmed by laboratory analysis. The symptom for severe Mn deficiency was unusual with the leaf margins (edges of leaf blades) remaining green while inner tissue and veins turned yellow. Leaf blades then had a perimeter of green around inner yellow tissue. Watch your pH as these problems generally appear in alkaline mediums. If you are using hard water, you'll likely see these. Hope these help. Generally a good rundown. If I have time, I'll revisit and post more photos of others.


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## desertdog (Feb 23, 2013)

I used 0 tolerance to get rid of gnats and it worked, but the plants looked like they began to die the next day so I washed them off several times and saved half of them. The problem now is lock out! Which is odd because the food was very low and fine until I used this crap. It did the same thing to my lettuce and pepper plants. What is really weird is some plant got molybdenum lockout while others go Mag lock out. I have been running low doses of peters to bring em out but two more died and as they went they looked like they had been bleached the tissue was still soft in the leaves and white. The other plant looks like it is suffering mag lock out even though I keep flushing every two or three days and running cal mag and peters. It looks a litter better after adding the cal mag, but all the stems are dark purple and looks like mag lock out. 0 tolerance is strong shit even in the ready to use formula do not use more than 20% of volume. I started at 20% and went to 30% and then my plants started dying and this is the ready to use already mixed formula!! It kills and keeps bugs from wanting to return, but it must be used at low volume. I am amazed that the gnats and spider mites don't come back they must hate the smell. I just wish I could get my pinapple Kush to bounce back. Any help would be great. Bubba Kush can take the 0 tolerance well just stay at 25% to volume of water other plants 20. The pineapple K is coming back it just is taking forever and I worried it might just give up like the big bud x white widow.


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## desertdog (Mar 5, 2013)

I saved my plants by flushing, washing with ro water, soaking in water with h202, then giving a 1/4 strength dose of peters. O tolerance will kill your plants at any strength if you don't do what I did to save them, they just keep burning even though you did not feed them a damn thing. It also causes lock out. Until I treated them for lock they just kept dropping leaves. I had to give the mild peters every day for a week before they grew green leaves without burnt edges and spots. Don't use this shit on anything. I only used it at 1/4 strength and it was ready to use saying use 50/50 dillution. It fried plants that were two feet tall and three months old, so heed the warning. I am fucking pissed all of my organic food plants have like three leaves on em and it killed half of my girls before I realized I needed to treat it like a fert burn.


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## highfirejones (Mar 5, 2013)

I'm starting to measure the health of my plants by that shine on the leaves, a little light or dark is ok but when I lose the shine it seems to be bad, splotches come next and next to no growth, get shine back, get growth back, what's up with that is that just a sign of overall health, anyone?


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## StickyEnigma (Mar 5, 2013)

Find the issues with my children. Ibelive I've been over dosing 'em....


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## highfirejones (Mar 5, 2013)

my exp tells me yellowing is usually over watering or underfeeding, overfeeding seems to cause me a general bad look, burned tips, spots, dull dirty splotchy looking leaves with little to no growth, yours look overwatered to me but its always safe to assume over watering and nuting that way u take the safe fix of water and low nutes, that way if you're wrong you probably won't kill them or stunt them for nearly as long, in my humble 3 harvest newbie opinion


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## Sincerely420 (Mar 5, 2013)

In my humble 1 harvest newbie opinion(I like how you worded that haha) I'd say they look over watered and over fertilized as well, and that in the first pic your plants are prob root bound which F's with their ability to get the right nutes, and brings on discoloration that can correct itself if you transplant it on time!
I had it happen not too long ago(a month maybe).
And IDK about the single cola guys, but I'd hit one of them up if I were you. Maybe you've got too much branching for a solo grow hence the being root bound.
Second pic looks a lot better but the leaves are still showing some moisture stress.

The fix I suggest, transplant the solos in 1 gal grow bags and wait until you big plant wilts to water it again, and from then on water it a day before it wilts.
I.e if it wilts after not being watered for 5 days, water it every 4th day. Then when it wilts on the 4th day, water it every third & so fourth so on


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## StickyEnigma (Mar 5, 2013)

Sincerely420 said:


> In my humble 1 harvest newbie opinion(I like how you worded that haha) I'd say they look over watered and over fertilized as well, and that in the first pic your plants are prob root bound which F's with their ability to get the right nutes, and brings on discoloration that can correct itself if you transplant it on time!
> I had it happen not too long ago(a month maybe).
> And IDK about the single cola guys, but I'd hit one of them up if I were you. Maybe you've got too much branching for a solo grow hence the being root bound.
> Second pic looks a lot better but the leaves are still showing some moisture stress.
> ...


Thank you for the advice. I well do that once my hand heals or have assistance.


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## manishbatra1989 (Mar 9, 2013)

If you suspect nutrient stress, sample when symptoms first appear. To ensure quality results, multiple samples should be collected from comparable locations (similar topography, aspect and soil type) and at the same time of day. Is important to collect the part of the plant that will give the best indication of the nutrient status of the whole plant. The youngest mature leaf is typically used, however, appropriate plant parts to test will vary with crop type and growth stage. Collect numerous (20-30) sub samples of parts from plants that appear both abnormal and healthy, if possible. Sub samples may be combined for one sample. To gather plant samples, use a clean plastic or paper container (metal containers can contaminate samples). If the samples have soil, fertilizer, or spray residues on them, clean gently with a dry brush or with deionized or distilled water. Do not prolong washing because it can leach nutrients out of the tissue. Air-dry samples in the shade in either a paper bag or envelope. To avoid decomposition, do not use plastic bags or send fresh samples. When mailing samples to the laboratory, include type and variety of crop, current and past crop management practices, irrigation frequency (if applicable), soil type (if known),visual 
appearance of crop, and any insect or disease problems.


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## ManicOrganic (Mar 15, 2013)

Amen-This INFO is TRUTH!!!!!!!


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## kamdo (Mar 16, 2013)

damn son this thread be dope


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## newbuder420 (Mar 19, 2013)

the leafs on my plant is turning black purple and a fly strip fell on it is my plant toast i think it is a male because i see footballs all around it and i still want the seeds but is my plant toast


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## ickball (Mar 19, 2013)

so what do you do if you are low on zink


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## GrowDon (Apr 4, 2013)

hey could u take a took at the post i put maybe u can help me out


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## Twiggs1620 (Apr 5, 2013)

GrowDon said:


> hey could u take a took at the post i put maybe u can help me out


 Come now dude, I know this thread is about helping people. If you read from the beginning he says how he did this thread so that you can do a bit of the work yourselves. Now he gotta wipe some bums too?? F me. Atleast have the common courtesy to post pictures in his thread so he doesnt need to spend hours looking for one piddly little thread amongst thousands. I apologise for being a douche but i just wish people will use theirs heads.


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## Twiggs1620 (Apr 5, 2013)

Maybe i just need a j...


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## gatormike (Apr 7, 2013)

nice thread thanks


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## greencorral19 (Apr 15, 2013)

Hey Doc, can you take a look at my thread and give me your opinion, didnt want to clog up this one with the hi rez photos. 
https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/644917-i-need-help-guru-growing.html#post8964996


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## Brianjox (Apr 16, 2013)

I have forget. I read it some where. Stems/ veins go red is a deficiency off ???? We want those mothers cuttings green Green not woody. The deficiency is????


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## nick17gar (Apr 17, 2013)

Brianjox said:


> I have forget. I read it some where. Stems/ veins go red is a deficiency off ???? We want those mothers cuttings green Green not woody. The deficiency is????


I dunno, i wouldnt worry too much if thats all your seeing. some stems are just naturally a different color. as long as its healthy, dont do anything.


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## nick17gar (Apr 17, 2013)

greencorral19 said:


> Hey Doc, can you take a look at my thread and give me your opinion, didnt want to clog up this one with the hi rez photos.
> https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/644917-i-need-help-guru-growing.html#post8964996


yea i just saw, ill reply on there. its pretty obvious.


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## anthone bonder (Apr 26, 2013)

*Hello everyone, i'm back again with the same problem as before. i'm, in my 4th week of flowering and i'm experiencing the same problem i've always encountered. let me explain the set-up
1. mk ultra from seed
2. 4.6 x 4.6 x 7.0 tent
3. 600 digital ballast
4. air-cooled inline fan cooling bulb and hood
5. inline fan attached to filter
6. 10 gallon tote (filled to 7.5 gal)

had no problem during veg as usual or first couple weeks of bloom.

i use r/o water 7 gals
calimagic 21ml = 3ml p. gal
micro 56ml = 8ml p. gal
grow 21ml = 3ml p. gal
bloom 70ml = 10ml p. gal 
flora plus 7ml = 1ml p. gal 
total ppm 965 
e.c. 2.0 
ph 5.8

3 days later top of with 1.5 gals of r/o water with calimag and sugar daddy total ppm of top off =405

3 days later check tent yellowing and p.h. is 5.9 and ppm is down to 665.... 
so my question is, am i not feeding enough ....or what?? i'm so confused because this is the second time having this problem... always during that 4-5th week of flowering . 
PLease input

this was monday 









wednesday 










today



























*


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## E121bizzy (May 4, 2013)

I am into my 7th week of flowering having done 36 days on 12/12. All was fine up until about this time last week. I have the most severe deficiency with one of my strains but on multiple plants. Critical kush, grown in soil, vegged for 8 weeks. The most Wierd thing started happening to the leaves. Firstly small vibrant orange spots appeared towards the centre of the top sets of leaves, this has since engulfed the leaves within the vicinity and turned into a dark rusty brown. From this point I feared magnesium deficiency due to the tap water supply around here. But with me being so far into flowerin now in really worried its more serious. The leaves (once 80-90%) brown and crispy dry curl up at the tips. And then they almost just fall off the plant. They are starting to affect the buds tiny leaves at the very top causing maturation to slow down.. I'm really really worried as some have really slowed down growing and I really need some help..... Any suggestions based in what I have said? I've looked time and time and time again at common "defficiency lists and ways to try and diagnose them" and I keep coming back to either manganese, phosphorus or potassium..... Any help?!?!?!?!?


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## Pnutzbutter (May 12, 2013)

Hey everyone I need help with my bbyz, they been doin so good till 2 or 3 dayz ago I noticed they have been lookin pale or highlight green on new growth also smoothness nd shine iz gone. Leaves feel thinner new shoots are wilting nd feel soft, I'm growing toxic blue nd master kush I been feeding fox farm nutes grow big nd big bloom in fox farm ocean forest soil. PLEASE need help not sure wat it really iz I'm 4 1/2 weekz from seed they are around 13 to 14 inchez I have to switch to 12/12 today I don't have enough space to keep veggin they r growin too fazt mayb 2 inch a day.
Will greatly appreciate any suggestions nd help you guyz reply! I will try nd pozt pix later on my PC!
Thankz in advance


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## testone (May 19, 2013)

great threasd eay to find your problem great advice on here bid ups


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## testone (May 19, 2013)

wow im baked


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## imcjayt (May 21, 2013)

yes nice thread all u need to kno......


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## DrOfWelshMagic (May 24, 2013)

I know its not gonna make a difference now as these ladies are just a day or two away from the chop, but it would be handy to know for future reference, never had this happen before with this strain but never vegged them for 8 weeks before either.. fed on advanced nutrients ph perfect range right up until day 56 of 12/12 with a further half strength feed on day 60 and a fresh water only drink on day 64. these pics are on day 65 and they are now on day 67. most of the trichs are cloudy but waiting for some amber before chopping. I have looked thru much info and photos and still cant put my finger on it... thought it was zinc but not so sure now...the strain is Belladonna from Paradise Seeds btw. View attachment 2669840View attachment 2669841 and heres some of their sisters, from same packet, fed same, everything identical from birth as it were yet no sign of this problem.... confused.com View attachment 2669848View attachment 2669850


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## monoxide child (Jun 3, 2013)

good shit boss im on my 1st one and u answered alot 4 me good lookin


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## OxDaNig (Jun 12, 2013)

These pics helped me out a lot with identifying the problem in my plants, i have a calcium deficiency and i don't know what to give the plants without throwing off my current nutrient schedule. any help, (besides adding milk...lol) will help me tremendously


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## nick17gar (Jun 13, 2013)

OxDaNig said:


> These pics helped me out a lot with identifying the problem in my plants, i have a calcium deficiency and i don't know what to give the plants without throwing off my current nutrient schedule. any help, (besides adding milk...lol) will help me tremendously


Calcium is a tough one. its a heavy mineral, so other then milk theres not too many ways of getting it in there. Egg shells are great, but a slow process. Id say find something that contains calcium, in a liquid.

Make sure its a calcium Deficiency tho, its not common. Post some pics and lets see


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## dannyboy602 (Jun 13, 2013)

calcium def...View attachment 2697637


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## reddiamond (Jun 14, 2013)

Great post, book marked for future reference & +repped you


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## BlownUnited420 (Jun 15, 2013)

Im not sure what could be wrong with my plants. Please help. Bottom leaves turning yellow then brown. Then the regular leaves are starting to turn yellow on the tips?


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## Organix420 (Jun 16, 2013)

Thank you nick17gar - Great thread! I'm a N00b and this is my first grow; I've known a few people that have grown and so I'm not totally green. 
Here is the grow:
View attachment 2702120
The 3 plant's in individual 7gal pots are 9 weeks old and the two in a 10 gal pot are about 4 weeks all are in Happy Frog soil I'm having problems with one of the older ones in the 7 gal... see the older ones acidentallity got watered for the first couple weeks with "water softened" basically with salt so I'm wondering if my problem has something to do with lock but there are no problems with the other two?
This is the plant with the problem

you can see a few of the leaves have "spots" it seems to be on older growth and "burns" through the leaves:

this is an on the plant shot you can see one of the leaves clearly has spots

This is the back with a flash you can see the spots.

I thought that it might have been a chemical burn but I've been watering with just 6.5 water for the last 3 weeks but it hasn't got any better so I'm trying to figure it out before it spreads.

RIU ROCKS


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## hughberty420 (Jul 1, 2013)

For a first time grower experiencing a few issues, this is one of the most useful threads on the site. Props guys!


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## ~CReePeR~ (Jul 3, 2013)

I looked and cannot find my issue.
Autoberry @25 days
450w LEDs 5gal Bubble bucket ph 6.0 1200 ppm 24/0 lights 78-81F 38-45 humidity
Some of the leaves have darker veins, The plant is growing super fast. I added nutes at day 21 and it is now day 25
And a few tips just started to curl down
Magnesium? Iron? Zinc?


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## Mashunaut (Jul 4, 2013)

Hey guys, this thread is great.
I still need some help though.
My plants are in their early budding stages, hydro. One AK48, one Aurora Indica. The AK48 is showing a fast growing nut problem which I am now quite certain is Nitrogen related - the bottom leaves are becoming yellow, drying up and falling off, some top leaves have discoloration towards the edges.
However, I have no idea if this is too much Nit or too little. This started fairly recently (2 weeks?), perhaps in correlation to when I started feeding it flowering nuts (so maybe that would indicate a deficiency?). I have also flushes the system a couple of weeks ago, so it would be relatively clean.
Anyone got an idea what I should do? Thanks 

BTW, they both grow in transparent boxes, so I can see the roots if that's any help


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## ~CReePeR~ (Jul 4, 2013)

Mashunaut said:


> Hey guys, this thread is great.
> I still need some help though.
> My plants are in their early budding stages, hydro. One AK48, one Aurora Indica. The AK48 is showing a fast growing nut problem which I am now quite certain is Nitrogen related - the bottom leaves are becoming yellow, drying up and falling off, some top leaves have discoloration towards the edges.
> However, I have no idea if this is too much Nit or too little. This started fairly recently (2 weeks?), perhaps in correlation to when I started feeding it flowering nuts (so maybe that would indicate a deficiency?). I have also flushes the system a couple of weeks ago, so it would be relatively clean.
> ...


420th post NICE!!!


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## Dogenzengi (Jul 20, 2013)

Awesome Thread,
Thank You for taking the time to post for all!
peace,
Dz


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## FoxFarmGuardian (Jul 23, 2013)

Anyone have any good tips on how to up your [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]m[/FONT]olybdenum? My plant seems to be showing signs.... pretty red leaves and such. I know i need to add sulfur and phosphorous but does anyone know any good organic additives?


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## Mojo27 (Jul 23, 2013)

This is my first post but I've been reading this sight for a long time. White widow on the left and pineapple chunk on the right. This happened after transplant from solo cups to 3.5 gallon pots. Started seeds in oasis cubes. Always been in 100% perilite. Nutes are sensi grow. Only using half of recommended dosage. Under 400w MH. Temp n room is 75 degrees. Just looking for a little advice. I have read this whole thread along w many others but I know a picture says a lot. Any thoughts are appreciated. Nothing extreme "yet" but want to correct it before it gets out of hand. These are the only plants out of the bunch showing this. I'm thinking of bumping up the part a of the two part nute to boost nitrogen?


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## Mojo27 (Jul 23, 2013)

View attachment 2748012Here is second pic. Don't know why it didn't load


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## eduziel (Aug 2, 2013)

thank you for your knowledge and advises bravo bro


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## Hydrogirl2 (Aug 5, 2013)

All of a sudden 3 outta my 12 babies are getting yellowing leaves (older ones) starting at tip n working back,green veins and 2 also have brown spots?? any advice would b great! First time soil grow, I've always done hydro


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## Hydrogirl2 (Aug 5, 2013)

How do I upload pics?


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## chiefrokaho (Aug 8, 2013)

Can anybody point me in the right direction with this? The one with the BAD leaves i thought was some bug spray burnage but startin to work its way up the plant. Thx for any help


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## greenexpress (Aug 16, 2013)

Hello you all, I have this situation in couple of my girls. WHAT IS THIS?View attachment 2779516


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## Cannabistattoo (Aug 20, 2013)

Thanks very much for this post! I do have a question tho, what about sodium from tap water? i have been filtering my water with Britia but seems like they arent enjoying.


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## str8basshead (Aug 21, 2013)

I have been having problems with my plants doing this as you see in the picture. The inside of the leaf, closest to the stem is turning light green on the new growth. The strain is "Death Star". I have my pH at 6.5 and I am growing in soil. I am using general hydroponics flora series nutrients following the guidelines as recommended. The pic is of one of my small plants but my large ones have done the same thing. I thought it was magnesium deficiency but it looks like it could be an iron deficiency as well when I look at a nutrient deficiency chart with pics of the leaves. So I foiler sprayed them with one teaspoon per gallon of Epsom salts. I also used well water which has more iron in it for the foiler spray with Epsom salts to cover both bases so to speak. The large plants seem to be doing better now but with my small plants I am now having the same issue. Could it be that the pH is so close to locking out calcium and magnesium at 6.5? Because I know anything lower than 6.5 in soil can lock out magnesium and calcium. Should I maybe try spraying them with a foiler spray the same as I have done before but with the PH at 6.7? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem as well. I have heard "Death Star" can be kinda difficult to grow when it comes to nutrients.


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## UnderTheSun (Aug 21, 2013)

WHITE
POWDERY
MILDEW
is what I see friend.....well the biggest concern anyway.


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## str8basshead (Aug 21, 2013)

WHAT??? ARE YOU SERIOUS? No disrespect but that definitely not the problem....don't know where you got that idea...


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## str8basshead (Aug 22, 2013)

Oh I kinda see where you got that....sorry...the white substance on the end of the leafs is from a foiler spray. sorry again "underthesun".


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## str8basshead (Aug 22, 2013)

Just a lil update for anyone else that have had this problem. Just tested one of the small plants as shown in my pics and I ran 6.5 pH water in and got 6.8 tipping 6.9 out on the water run out from the bottom of the pot. That means its an iron deficiency and not magnesium deficiency. So in the next watering I will prolly use use a pH of 6.2 to hopefully solve the problem. Meanwhile I am going to foiler spray the plants with a diluted micro nutrient spray using well water at a pH of 6.5. Man this death star strain can be a pain! It seems like a pH of under 6.5 and I get a magnesium deficiency and over 6.5 I get an iron deficiency. It produces good medicine but can be a pain to grow sometimes.


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## CommanderInKief (Aug 25, 2013)

This forum is really helpful. Thanks. I recently found a really good nutrient deficiency chart that's also made it easy (and quick) to monitor and correct nutrient problems in my grows. Figured I'd share... Check it out: http://www.gyostuff.com/Nutrient_Deficiencies.html


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## TheJ (Aug 27, 2013)

Hey everyone I'm growing a few on the lucas formula and they are in early veg. New growth seems healthy but all the lower leaves are wilting off and dying (about two or three sets of leaves starting from the bottom) &#63010; under some led lighting with Mylar walls getting misters to the roots. Any ideas of what's going on?
  
They are feminized Sannies Seeds: Kolossus. temps, ph, everything seems to be right to me, would love to hear if it is def. in anything.Thanks in advance for all the help I know I'll get! 

Ps. Feel free to use these pics for def. and tox. Guide


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## chiefrokaho (Aug 27, 2013)

chiefrokaho said:


> View attachment 2768361View attachment 2768360Can anybody point me in the right direction with this? The one with the BAD leaves i thought was some bug spray burnage but startin to work its way up the plant. Thx for any helpView attachment 2768324


Jus thought id let everybody know what i think caused my trouble in case u have similar prob. I think i had adjusted my ph too low. They were also rootbound pretty bad.


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## grasscropper (Aug 30, 2013)

Thanks....I think I have dumped the pH of my water.


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## ginganuts (Sep 14, 2013)

Hi Im doing a soil grow indoors and have a kali mist that i think is showing signs of calcium def. I have several other strains that are doing fine. Im using canna pro soil with a ph of 6.5 and tap water with a ph of 7. Vegged from seed for 4 weeks and flipped last week. A one third canna terra flores feed is all they've had a few days ago.


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## ginganuts (Sep 16, 2013)

Im still struggling to diagnose this problem , no matter how many times i read this thread or others. Either, its ph spotting before lockout, pottassium deficiency or calcium deficiency. Would really appreciate some advice as im a complete newbie and only on my second grow, with no experience whatsoever in diagnosing plant ailments. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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## chiefrokaho (Sep 16, 2013)

Looks like bugs


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## ginganuts (Sep 16, 2013)

On one plant out of 17, i dont think its bugs or they would all be infested. ive had sticky strips in my tent from the start and keep a clean, sealed enviroment, not seen any bugs or flys. Ive lowered the ph of my tap water, given them a good dose of flores. Ordered some cal mag and alfalfa meal.


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## Crankyxr (Sep 16, 2013)

Pics without the HPS light would help with diagnosing your problem greatly


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## ginganuts (Sep 16, 2013)

I read in this thread that taking pics with the incandescent light on my camera would be ok as its a worse picture with lights off, have tried and pictures shit. They are slight scattered light green spots, how greatly will the lights off help you diagnose this problem, you either know or you dont.


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## Crankyxr (Sep 16, 2013)

ginganuts said:


> I read in this thread that taking pics with the incandescent light on my camera would be ok as its a worse picture with lights off, have tried and pictures shit. They are slight scattered light green spots, how greatly will the lights off help you diagnose this problem, you either know or you dont.


Well, it's hard seeing different colors in a picture with an HPS on... 
If the spots are rust colored, you have a cal/mag issue, if they're brown it could be burns, etc. etc.


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## ginganuts (Sep 16, 2013)

Crankyxr said:


> Well, it's hard seeing different colors in a picture with an HPS on...
> If the spots are rust colored, you have a cal/mag issue, if they're brown it could be burns, etc. etc.


With the incandescent light on it shouldnt be, unless your colour blind


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## grow4fun420 (Oct 24, 2013)

Very informational dude! I found this very useful as I'm dealing with a couple deficiencies at the moment and thanks to this, I doubt they'll be an issue anymore


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## keysareme (Oct 28, 2013)

Thank you, I just read your entire post.


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## moveme (Nov 4, 2013)

*Thank you,much help, GREAT POST*


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## urabus2005 (Nov 4, 2013)

nick17gar said:


> these should help too:
> 
> View attachment 1894317View attachment 1894318


can somone tell me what the orange bar is? i cant read that


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## Jeff&Frank (Nov 4, 2013)

I would just like to say... Nick17gar, what a brilliant comprehensive guide you have written. i have found it most helpful. As a first timer I definitely have a lot anxiety.


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## MikeJoes (Nov 5, 2013)

Could anyone tell me whats wrong with my seedling. Its my first grow and after looking at this thread and many others i think its a Magnesium deficiency caused ultimately a low ph. I have no grow shops in town so i'm waiting till thanksgiving to leave town and get a legit ph kit. Till then ive decided to use baking soda in the water i feed it. I also mixed some epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) i already had for cleaning my bong in with some water and sprayed the seedling. I just did all the things i just said, so i don't know if i'm right or not. And like i said, first grow, so im no super confident in anything and would appreciate any help.


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## nick17gar (Nov 28, 2013)

urabus2005 said:


> can somone tell me what the orange bar is? i cant read that


I believe its manganese. (Mn). useful little chart, but black and white would have been ok haha


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## nick17gar (Nov 28, 2013)

MikeJoes said:


> View attachment 2884159View attachment 2884156View attachment 2884157
> Could anyone tell me whats wrong with my seedling. Its my first grow and after looking at this thread and many others i think its a Magnesium deficiency caused ultimately a low ph. I have no grow shops in town so i'm waiting till thanksgiving to leave town and get a legit ph kit. Till then ive decided to use baking soda in the water i feed it. I also mixed some epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) i already had for cleaning my bong in with some water and sprayed the seedling. I just did all the things i just said, so i don't know if i'm right or not. And like i said, first grow, so im no super confident in anything and would appreciate any help.



*STOP!

that plant is too small for any chemistry*. For seeds, get good dirt. nothing too highly active. maybe even just some potting soil, in a small container (i use an egg-crate shaped plastic thing), and nothing else.

just let them grow, im guessing those have 2-3 weeks or so, since you stuck the seed in the ground, so no worries. they do wierd things that early on, and adding or messing w nutrients this early is tough. besides that, they are so small that 1 drop of something might take a deficiency, and change it to a toxic abundance.

just trust in mother nature (and a good plant nursery) and let high quality dirt handle it for now. once its bigger, about a foot, and has 3-4 levels of leaves, and a pot bigger than a dixie cup, then start messing w chems or nutrients.

give them strong light, a lil wind, clean water, and patience


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## nick17gar (Nov 28, 2013)

Jeff&Frank said:


> I would just like to say... Nick17gar, what a brilliant comprehensive guide you have written. i have found it most helpful. As a first timer I definitely have a lot anxiety.



thanks! welcome to RIU!

half the reason i wrote it was to combine all the pics/info on one page, for personal use. then they made it a sticky, and months later it still helping people!


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## Daniel710 (Dec 3, 2013)

Need some help don't know what's wrong with them I think it's a nitrogen deficiency! There both the same age about 1 month old! Ones bigger then the other! Stem is purple leaves are yellowing/browning and dry and crispy! Temps is between 78-84f with humidity at 35-50! Is it to late to save?


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## str8basshead (Dec 5, 2013)

The easiest sign of a magnesium deficiency is a purple stem. I dont know what your Ph level is but I would bet its under 6.5, If so then its deffinately magnesium deficiency. For that I spray the plants with a 2% solution of epsom salts once a day till the plants start to look better. But it will happen again if the Ph is to low.


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## faller200 (Dec 5, 2013)

Cal-Mag every watering 1 tsp. per gal. from start to finish works for me.


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## str8basshead (Dec 6, 2013)

Cal-mag is great but if your Ph is below 6.5 the plant will not be able to absorb it. And that is with soil grows. If its hydroponic the Ph will have to be lower. to Absorb calcium and magnesium.


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## Faby2xlc (Dec 11, 2013)

thanku u 
all i ve been looking for


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## CheeseKing (Dec 12, 2013)

View attachment 2926144 i remember using this when i first started and it helped me out alot understanding what was wrong with my plants


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## manclad (Dec 12, 2013)

nick17gar if you see this will you look at these pics and tell me what you think pal would be good to hear off you pal


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## CheeseKing (Dec 13, 2013)

manclad plants seem a bit of too much heat


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## Edgeonez (Dec 18, 2013)

Sick plant been in veg since Nov 1 new growth on top of plant is starting to twist & bend using Osmocote Soil what should I do otherwise looks healthy


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## Edgeonez (Dec 18, 2013)

Need help bout to go into flowering thought might b zinc def tryin to fig out how to post pics lol new to forum


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## Edgeonez (Dec 18, 2013)

Cant fig how to post pics lol


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## cdd10 (Dec 18, 2013)

My seedlings at day 4 look okay??


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## Machupichu (Jan 5, 2014)

Hello Guys,
Nick Thanks for strating this thread, Ive learned that I have a Ca def during flowers but it doesnt kill me, here are some pics of what kills me, I grow yor some years now in coco with perlite, seen lots of stuff but never this, it-s driving me crazy I first thought it was Phytophthora Infestans but I read it doesn-t affect marihuana plant, I live in the potato country in South America where that disease is common in potatoes but naaaaaah, can it be a deficiency? I challenge all ya to diagnose this case


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## nick17gar (Jan 5, 2014)

manclad and cdd10, they look fine!


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## colatraine (Jan 28, 2014)

Ive looked through different forums, diagrams and books and I still cannot fully Identify what this is? maybe Ca deficiency? Im (DWC) using RO water, DM gold grow parts A&B thats it. PH(5.6-6.3) and ppm (300-450)are looking fine as does the temperature (71). If anyone knows what this could be I would really appreciate input! its only on these two fan leaves that I can tell..


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## jays (Jan 28, 2014)

I had some plants start off like that, adjusted the nuits. Turned out worse, I later discovered it was the start of powdery mildew. Hope that's not your problem. Best of luck
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Rollitup mobile app


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## nmac1294 (Jan 31, 2014)

i am having the same problem, only on 3 of the 4 large fan leaves, no yellowing yet. you can see from underneath that the leaves are actually burning, the ladies are about 18 inches from the light. I watered with nutrients about 2 days ago and it was a light feeding. ph in the soil is around 6.3-6.5


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## nvhak49 (Feb 24, 2014)

I'm in a top-fed DWC system and a month into the veg. Using CFLs and GH flora trip for nutes and pHed at 5.9. I'm thinking it could be lack of N and mag? Does anyone else think the same or is it nute burn. I transplanted from coco a week I from sprout so I stressed it out and turned the older leave tips yellow and was scared to put full strength nutes in the water but now I'm kinda thinking it might be not enough nutes.


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## recreational ralph (Feb 28, 2014)

what is wrong i think calcium but i dont know sh!t i told my friend i would try to find out he is first timer an this is an auto strain either ww or narcotic kush please help anyone i surely will partake in the bounty if i can help my friend solve this pleeease help


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## fugginbutz (Mar 1, 2014)

awesome thread!! it saved me from asking silly noob questions n pissing people off! lol. much thanx!


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## duddy9921 (Mar 3, 2014)

Great Article!!


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## duncan1965 (Mar 3, 2014)

it does look like i have a nitrogen deficiency mate, what sort of feed would help to cure it


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## BunnyK (Mar 9, 2014)

First of all,say hello to all ! 
Hi my friends,I started 2 wwbb beans from 13/02/2014.Today is around 25 days and I got some troubles 10 days ago.Please look at my babies and let me know what happens.I flushed them today and took some pics.Special thanks to everyone spending time on,peace 


View attachment 3017658View attachment 3017659


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## jaybray (Mar 15, 2014)

well said...


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## PopaShank (Mar 24, 2014)

This Blue Mystic has been doing fantastic till just recently. Her big sister is 2 weeks older, and much worse.
She is in a 5 gal bucket with 3 equal parts Coco, Perlite, and Miracle Grow Potting Soil. 
At transplant, I put a soil tab from Nirvana down under the tiny sprout. 
Usually she gets plain old water, ph'd if needed. 
Once it got well into flowering, I'd give it a bit of my hydro nutes from General Hydroponics, the Flora Grow system.
Everything was great, but it's started turning yellow, especially on the leaves, and the tips are curling. 
I don't know if it's a deficiency or an abundance.
Can anyone tell from the pics what's going on?


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## PopaShank (Mar 24, 2014)

Did you ever figure out what the problem was? My plants are looking just about the same as your pics.
How did you fix it?


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## ProdigalSun (Mar 24, 2014)

I've got some Blue Hash doing the same thing!!!. odd.


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## nick17gar (Mar 26, 2014)

Hey guys, sorry ive been super busy!

Popeshank, your ok! the plant begins to wither as it gets old, and nugs are well developed. its dying man, and cares less for leaves and more for nugs. At this point, your primary concern should also be the nugs. You can give it some nutrients (try to stick to organic for the taste), but the leaves will continue to die out. As long as its a slow process, and the nugs keep maturing, you're ok. Either way, dont go crazy with nutes or anything and burn it this far in!

I leave here a few pics of what i got going on, probably 6-8 weeks left til done,

  < thats a 45cm cubed pot! 

Sadly, these photos are from 2 weeks ago i think (so really early onto the flowering). 

The skinny plant (lemon haze) is now about 7ft, and big dense nugs; while the fatty indica (a south american hash-hybrid plant - best explanation i can give) is about 6ft, but very very wide, probably 4-5ft! 

The nugs are coming in well on both, started to get frosted, and the nug growth is filling in the internodal spacing (on the hash plant for sure, little more time to fill in big gaps on the haze). The haze stinks... that almost exotic weed smell, that tells you "sit down before you hit this", while the hash plant... well... smells like a dirty lady  

Honestly, im not sure which ill like more, the hash plant will be great w pains/arthritis from riding a motorcycle, and getting older, while the haze plant, im guessing, will just make me not care about the aches! that might be better for work (urbanism), to be more social and fun! 

Anyways, im outa here. Keep up the good work guys, ill try to post up some better pics, but the female unit in my life lost our camera!


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## seanpaul sideproject (Mar 30, 2014)

View attachment 3038381this and other brown yellowish spots are occurring on my plants. almost like a rust color and in some places causing small holes in the leaf. could this be the onset to root mites and if so would creating a low temp. tonight kill of insects.


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## ProdigalSun (Mar 30, 2014)

I can't diagnose pinkish-purple plants. Try again please.


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## NyQuilkush318 (Apr 26, 2014)

Yea bro nice we need help my girl just started a problem pix help well be appreciate it


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## Sparkticus (Apr 28, 2014)

NyQuilkush318 said:


> Yea bro nice we need help my girl just started a problem pix help well be appreciate it


Purple in the stems is usually nitrogen (N). The yellowing looks like phosphorus (P)... or maybe potassium (K). I think (P) though. There's a post under the first, with a link to a really good chart.


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## Sparkticus (Apr 28, 2014)

Awesome thread. Thank you.


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## NyQuilkush318 (Apr 28, 2014)

Sparkticus said:


> Purple in the stems is usually nitrogen (N). The yellowing looks like phosphorus (P)... or maybe potassium (K). I think (P) though. There's a post under the first, with a link to a really good chart.


yea bro i say something like that thinks


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## NyQuilkush318 (Apr 28, 2014)

nick17gar said:


> yea cal mag is a pretty common one, thankfully it doesnt take much of either for a plant to thrive. they just have to be included.
> Im currently using a 4 part nutrient solution and only 1 of the 4 contains both of these, the other 3 dont.
> 
> I kinda just think people need to read the labels, and know what is in that jug of "Green Booster!" or whatever they buy


hey bro i have some prombles i put pics up i have a journal up to please help bro


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## NyQuilkush318 (Apr 29, 2014)

Hey bro am having a problem to i use ffof soil   hehelp


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## NyQuilkush318 (Apr 29, 2014)

[QUOTI try to match with chart can't get match wright="NyQuilkush318, post: 10452380, member: 845790"]Hey bro am having a problem to i use ffof soil View attachment 3140611 View attachment 3140612 hehelp[/QUOTE]
Nick i


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## hexthat (Apr 29, 2014)

pH maybe low or needing some K


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## wes2wright (May 17, 2014)

Please help me diagnose these plants.
I am running in peat (Klassman) perlite and vermiculite. 50-30-20

Have been using tap water aired out for few days. Scotts professional 30-10-10 at 1/3 strength with added liquid seaweed.

The larger plants are f'ing nearly 7 weeks old. clones cut from them before any signs of trouble. 

Whats confusing me is i had 1 experimental plant with organic soil (EWC and blood&bone etc) and it is showing similar signs but to a less of a degree and this plants has only been few a EWC tea


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## wes2wright (May 17, 2014)

more pics


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## Presidentnixon (May 29, 2014)

I've gone thru 25 pages on here looking for someone else having problems similar to mine! Eeek I think im a freak of nature. So this girl, she is Failing to thrive. She is so deformed I can't believe she is still alive. All of my other plants seem fine, they have a little problem here and there, but everyone else I can fix and work with. It is a clone, Larry og. Every single new growth site is deformed. Like someone cut the leaf short. Slow growth lots of stretching between nodes. Weird wrinkled leaves. I know the plant is worthless. But what happened?


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## Presidentnixon (May 29, 2014)

I have a nagging suspicion it's the soil. I have an Apollo 13 in the flower room that was potted with the same ocean forest that it having issues too, but she was farther along and healthy when I transplanted her into a larger pot. Her buds just don't want to form. Just very small hard calyxs. She never had that first stage of flower when they look like fuzzy white Pom poms.


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## Jonathanholmes3128 (May 31, 2014)

very nice,... I swear by the old gods and new that I wont make 10 post if I see a yellow leaf or my plant looks at me wrong ill reread doctors orders and treat.. thanks abunch


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## jartlow (Jun 2, 2014)

Curious to what you experts think. . 
Definitely nute burn but I'm more curious about the yellowish.


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## NyQuilkush318 (Jul 6, 2014)

I been following for 30days I feed then I flush her with 1/2calmag 1/2 shield 1/4 molasses to a gallon of tap water bubble for 2days soil ph wright temps wright humidity wright in going water 6.8runoff 6.5


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## NyQuilkush318 (Jul 6, 2014)

I been in flowering for 30days I feed then flush her with 1/2cal mag 1/2 Aqua shield 1/4molasses soil ph 6.5in going water at 6.8runoff 6.5 when I feed I use bontcare sweet mix in with my water/feed an when I flush i use molasses/water to flush can I get some help bro


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## happyfarmer86 (Jul 18, 2014)

Yeah what that last guy said. 
I've been suffering some serious issues with my plants from ph imbalance to molybdenum deficiencies and this post really opened my eyes to the true cause of my problems. Thanks a bunch. 
Flagged, bookmarked, And another vote sticky.


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## bean101 (Jul 20, 2014)

im def a newbie i just threw a couple seeds in a bucket and let them alone..that was on april 6th 14 and im up in boston since then iv read alot of material but i just let them grow by themselves maybe watering them but now thew are 2 ft tall and just starting to flower cuz i brought them in under a flourescent tube but then the new top growth started tunring lime green/yellow and twirling around and some other brown discoloration on the lower leaves...i was curious since i left the plats outside the whole time and then brought them in if that could cause my problem?..iv flushed and put it in a bigger pot wit more soil and brought it back outside im hoping that will help..any suggestions would be greatly appreciated..and srry if im doin this wrong but this is the first time iv come on to talk to ppl and dont kno the "protocol"..thanx


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## justanothergrower78 (Jul 20, 2014)

NyQuilkush318 said:


> View attachment 3196429 I been in flowering for 30days I feed then flush her with 1/2cal mag 1/2 Aqua shield 1/4molasses soil ph 6.5in going water at 6.8runoff 6.5 when I feed I use bontcare sweet mix in with my water/feed an when I flush i use molasses/water to flush can I get some help broView attachment 3196429


Nitrogen diffecient add some EWC or feather tea


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## justanothergrower78 (Jul 20, 2014)

jartlow said:


> Curious to what you experts think. .
> Definitely nute burn but I'm more curious about the yellowish.


Looks like definite nute burn and cal/mag lock out from ph fluctuations


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## modene (Jul 21, 2014)

This happened overnight.. What do you guys think?


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## chuck estevez (Jul 21, 2014)

every problem I read on this page can be fixed very easy. 
1. Quit using so much Bullshit
2. quit trying to be perfect on the p.h
3.quit using things like sweet, molasses,cal mag
Just quit it all, use a good 1 part nutrient, drop the bloom nutes, lose the ppm pen,lose the ph meter.
Once i quit doing all of these things and just used jack's citrus feed or dyna gro foliage pro in Small amounts, I saw healthy plants and huge yileds.
LESS IS MORE, learn that and you WILL see results. Quit loving your plants to death. good luck


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## bean101 (Jul 21, 2014)

justanothergrower78 said:


> Nitrogen diffecient add some EWC or feather tea


ya it kinda looks like that..im gonna head to the hydro store and get some solution...any reconmendations? or is there an "all in one" solution i could use


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## bean101 (Jul 21, 2014)

is there an all in one nute i could use for flowering?


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## chuck estevez (Jul 21, 2014)

bean101 said:


> is there an all in one nute i could use for flowering?


yeah,believe it or not,you don't need bloom nutes. veg nutes work better.
dyna-gro or jacks classic


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## bean101 (Jul 21, 2014)

chuck estevez said:


> yeah,believe it or not,you don't need bloom nutes. veg nutes work better.
> dyna-gro or jacks classic


im not questioning you..but that dosent seem like it would work...the question is obvious..could u elaborate plz


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## chuck estevez (Jul 21, 2014)

bean101 said:


> im not questioning you..but that dosent seem like it would work...the question is obvious..could u elaborate plz


read,
https://www.rollitup.org/t/the-never-ending-abuse-of-phosphorous-bloom-foods-to-enhance-flowering.158144/
another
http://rollitup.org/t/the-nutrient-companies-are-ripping-us-off-lets-talk-about-it.838497/


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## bean101 (Jul 21, 2014)

chuck estevez said:


> read,
> https://www.rollitup.org/t/the-never-ending-abuse-of-phosphorous-bloom-foods-to-enhance-flowering.158144/
> another
> http://rollitup.org/t/the-nutrient-companies-are-ripping-us-off-lets-talk-about-it.838497/


that was very informative..considering the fact that im a newbie this is my first grow and jus threw a couple seeds in a pot and i jus watered it never added n e thing i didnt think they would ever get this far so i said fuck it and im gonna try and make it work..those articles made me think a lil diff


----------



## bean101 (Jul 21, 2014)

bean101 said:


> that was very informative..considering the fact that im a newbie this is my first grow and jus threw a couple seeds in a pot and i jus watered it never added n e thing i didnt think they would ever get this far so i said fuck it and im gonna try and make it work..those articles made me think a lil diff


now one thing i didnt see was any kind of ratio or amount i would need to buy/use for only 3 ladies...appreciate the info


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## justanothergrower78 (Jul 21, 2014)

you don't use veg all through tho... As you want to decrease your total nitrogen as the plant continues to age will make the colors pop. I find that GO bloom is a great way to go if not using a hydro system with reservoi. If you want hydro nute Sensi A&B its not a one part but honestly imo 2 part nutes seem to be more complete in it's chemical make up hence better yield and taste


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## chuck estevez (Jul 22, 2014)

justanothergrower78 said:


> *you don't use veg all through tho... As you want to decrease your total nitrogen as the plant continues to age will make the colors pop*. I find that GO bloom is a great way to go if not using a hydro system with reservoi. If you want hydro nute Sensi A&B its not a one part but honestly imo 2 part nutes seem to be more complete in it's chemical make up hence better yield and taste


 says you, As I said, Bloom nutes are a gimmick and you are just going along with forum nonsense. Take a good look at some outdoor grows with 100's of plants that look like trees. They all finish GREEN. They don't haul bottles of water out to their grows, they have a bag of all purpose fertilizer that they use start to finish. The whole color,fade,taste thing is Bullshit myth.


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## chuck estevez (Jul 22, 2014)

bean101 said:


> now one thing i didnt see was any kind of ratio or amount i would need to buy/use for only 3 ladies...appreciate the info


I use just enough to feed the plants what they need to be healthy. LESS IS MORE.


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## justanothergrower78 (Jul 23, 2014)

chuck estevez said:


> says you, As I said, Bloom nutes are a gimmick and you are just going along with forum nonsense. Take a good look at some outdoor grows with 100's of plants that look like trees. They all finish GREEN. They don't haul bottles of water out to their grows, they have a bag of all purpose fertilizer that they use start to finish. The whole color,fade,taste thing is Bullshit myth.


It's in the math and in the science... Plants need different nutrients at different stages within their life cycle to give a plant in flower a high nitrogen boost during times you want higher pk ratios or during the end of its grow when you want it to finish using the nitrogen it has so can start using and metabolizing its sugars. High amounts of nitrogen counter that reaction which can result in stress. every grow is unique to its grower and area so what may work for you or me may be failure for some one else but in response to that its science that is all simple the math supports my argument happy grows


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## justanothergrower78 (Jul 23, 2014)

Speaking scientifically those bag nutes contain chemicals and those chemicals are essentially the same as the synthetic ones only in the essence of distribution and purpose. Those "bag nutes" are bottled nutes chemicals are chemicals and you honestly can't compare an outdoor grow to a inside grow which is controlled... Science wins everytime in door or out


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## chuck estevez (Jul 23, 2014)

justanothergrower78 said:


> It's in the math and in the science... Plants need different nutrients at different stages within their life cycle to give a plant in flower a high nitrogen boost during times you want higher pk ratios or during the end of its grow when you want it to finish using the nitrogen it has so can start using and metabolizing its sugars. High amounts of nitrogen counter that reaction which can result in stress. every grow is unique to its grower and area so what may work for you or me may be failure for some one else but in response to that its science that is all simple the math supports my argument happy grows


so you are trying to tell me I am doing it wrong? _ have been growing this way for years, People line up to get my buds, so you are wrong. I don't use High amounts of N, I don't use High amounts of anything, i give the plant what it needs to be healthy, I know it is hard for you to understand, But take a look at all these pics.
https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1600&bih=799&q=outdoor+marijuana&oq=outdoor+marijuana&gs_l=img.12..0.1819.11542.0.13367.21.10.2.9.9.0.86.707.10.10.0....0...1ac.1.49.img..0.21.736.7p2zey_lr2c

Tell me you don't see GREEN TREES._


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## chuck estevez (Jul 23, 2014)

justanothergrower78 said:


> Speaking scientifically those bag nutes contain chemicals and those chemicals are essentially the same as the synthetic ones only in the essence of distribution and purpose. Those "bag nutes" are bottled nutes chemicals are chemicals and you honestly can't compare an outdoor grow to a inside grow which is controlled... Science wins everytime in door or out


you have no clue how nutrients work, so please just STFU


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## NyQuilkush318 (Jul 24, 2014)

happyfarmer86 said:


> Yeah what that last guy said.
> I've been suffering some serious issues with my plants from ph imbalance to molybdenum deficiencies and this post really opened my eyes to the true cause of my problems. Thanks a bunch.
> Flagged, bookmarked, And another vote sticky.





NyQuilkush318 said:


> View attachment 3196415 I been following for 30days I feed then I flush her with 1/2calmag 1/2 shield 1/4 molasses to a gallon of tap water bubble for 2days soil ph wright temps wright humidity wright in going water 6.8runoff 6.5


  Can someone please help me out bro what you think it is on my leves am in flowering be


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## chuck estevez (Jul 24, 2014)

NyQuilkush318 said:


> View attachment 3211950 View attachment 3211953
> 
> View attachment 3211953 View attachment 3211950 Can someone please help me out bro what you think it is on my leves am in flowering be


it's a cal/mag def. are you using r/o or distilled water?


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## NyQuilkush318 (Jul 24, 2014)

chuck estevez said:


> it's a cal/mag def. are you using r/o or distilled water?


I use tap water city water I let it sit out an bubble it


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## NyQuilkush318 (Jul 24, 2014)

NyQuilkush318 said:


> I use tap water city water I let it sit out an bubble it


An i use calmag 1/2 teasp


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## chuck estevez (Jul 24, 2014)

NyQuilkush318 said:


> An i use calmag 1/2 teasp


you might need to up the amount, what ph are you running?


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## NyQuilkush318 (Jul 24, 2014)

[QUOTE"chuck estevez, post: 10728110, member: 509695"]you might need to up the amount, what ph are you running?

[/QUOTE]
My in going water is 7.0 my runoff is 6.5


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## NyQuilkush318 (Jul 24, 2014)

NyQuilkush318 said:


> [QUOTE"chuck estevez, post: 10728110, member: 509695"]you might need to up the amount, what ph are you running?


My in going water is 7.0 my runoff is 6.5[/QUOTE]
How can i fix it I been flowering for 54days


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## NyQuilkush318 (Jul 24, 2014)

What u think i should do


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## NyQuilkush318 (Jul 24, 2014)

NyQuilkush318 said:


> My in going water is 7.0 my runoff is 6.5


How can i fix it I been flowering for 54days[/QUOTE]
U think i should give her a teaspoon of calmag or a 1/2 1/4 teaspoons


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## chuck estevez (Jul 24, 2014)

NyQuilkush318 said:


> How can i fix it I been flowering for 54days


U think i should give her a teaspoon of calmag or a 1/2 1/4 teaspoons[/QUOTE]
not much to worry about at this point, it isn't bad enough to worry about this far along.


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## NyQuilkush318 (Jul 24, 2014)

chuck estevez said:


> U think i should give her a teaspoon of calmag or a 1/2 1/4 teaspoons


not much to worry about at this point, it isn't bad enough to worry about this far along.[/QUOTE]
What should i do bro


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## chuck estevez (Jul 24, 2014)

NyQuilkush318 said:


> not much to worry about at this point, it isn't bad enough to worry about this far along.


What should i do bro[/QUOTE]
i would just feed as normal, you are almost done, as long as the buds look good(pic?) you are good to go.


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## NyQuilkush318 (Jul 24, 2014)

[QUOT"chuck estevez, post: 10728407, member: 509695"]U think i should give her a teaspoon of calmag or a 1/2 1/4 teaspoons[/QUOTE]
not much to worry about at this point, it isn't bad enough to worry about this far along.[/QUOTE]
What should i do flush or. Light flush I mean what I been following for 54days she is a sativa Street 100% so she wwill take 14/16weeks to finish so she ant no were done


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## chuck estevez (Jul 24, 2014)

NyQuilkush318 said:


> [QUOT"chuck estevez, post: 10728407, member: 509695"]U think i should give her a teaspoon of calmag or a 1/2 1/4 teaspoons


not much to worry about at this point, it isn't bad enough to worry about this far along.[/QUOTE]
What should i do flush or. Light flush I mean what I been following for 54days she is a sativa Street 100% so she wwill take 14/16weeks to finish so she ant no were done[/QUOTE]
Just up your cal/mag a little when feeding, I don't Flush anything but turds, If you want to know how I finish my plants I would be happy to tell you, But, Leaching is for fixing over fertilizing issues.


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## NyQuilkush318 (Jul 24, 2014)

Don't sativa take longer to finishOTE="chuck estevez, post: 10728423, member: 509695"]What should i do bro[/QUOTE]
i would just feed as normal, you are almost done, as long as the buds look good(pic?) you are good to go.[/QUOTE]
Don


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## chuck estevez (Jul 24, 2014)

NyQuilkush318 said:


> Don't sativa take longer to finishOTE="chuck estevez, post: 10728423, member: 509695"]What should i do bro


i would just feed as normal, you are almost done, as long as the buds look good(pic?) you are good to go.[/QUOTE]
Don[/QUOTE]
yes, sativas can take 11 to 16 weeks


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## NyQuilkush318 (Jul 24, 2014)

chuck estevez said:


> not much to worry about at this point, it isn't bad enough to worry about this far along.


What should i do flush or. Light flush I mean what I been following for 54days she is a sativa Street 100% so she wwill take 14/16weeks to finish so she ant no were done[/QUOTE]
Just up your cal/mag a little when feeding, I don't Flush anything but turds, If you want to know how I finish my plants I would be happy to tell you, But, Leaching is for fixing over fertilizing issues.[/QUOTE]
Yeah tell me how you finsh bro I need the knowledge


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## chuck estevez (Jul 24, 2014)

NyQuilkush318 said:


> What should i do flush or. Light flush I mean what I been following for 54days she is a sativa Street 100% so she wwill take 14/16weeks to finish so she ant no were done


Just up your cal/mag a little when feeding, I don't Flush anything but turds, If you want to know how I finish my plants I would be happy to tell you, But, Leaching is for fixing over fertilizing issues.[/QUOTE]
Yeah tell me how you finsh bro I need the knowledge[/QUOTE]
When the plant is ready to harvest, I pour boiling hot water over the roots. This starves the roots of oxygen and starts the breakdown of sugars,starches and chlorophyll. Leave it under the lights for 3 days, then harvest. No leaching or flushing necessary


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## NyQuilkush318 (Jul 24, 2014)

[QUTE="chuck estevez, post: 10728440, member: 509695"]not much to worry about at this point, it isn't bad enough to worry about this far along.[/QUOTE]
What should i do flush or. Light flush I mean what I been following for 54days she is a sativa Street 100% so she wwill take 14/16weeks to finish so she ant no were done[/QUOTE]
Just up your cal/mag a little when feeding, I don't Flush anything but turds, If you want to know how I finish my plants I would be happy to tell you, But, Leaching is for fixing over fertilizing issues.[/QUOTE]
Ok bro I well do that but I hope it stops


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## NyQuilkush318 (Jul 24, 2014)

chuck estevez said:


> Just up your cal/mag a little when feeding, I don't Flush anything but turds, If you want to know how I finish my plants I would be happy to tell you, But, Leaching is for fixing over fertilizing issues.


Yeah tell me how you finsh bro I need the knowledge[/QUOTE]
When the plant is ready to harvest, I pour boiling hot water over the roots. This starves the roots of oxygen and starts the breakdown of sugars,starches and chlorophyll. Leave it under the lights for 3 days, then harvest. No leaching or flushing necessary[/QUOTE]
Ok hot water I never heard of that an how much calmag u think I should up I told you I give 1/2a gallon I grow in soil ffof happy frog how many teaspoons help me bro


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## chuck estevez (Jul 24, 2014)

NyQuilkush318 said:


> Yeah tell me how you finsh bro I need the knowledge


When the plant is ready to harvest, I pour boiling hot water over the roots. This starves the roots of oxygen and starts the breakdown of sugars,starches and chlorophyll. Leave it under the lights for 3 days, then harvest. No leaching or flushing necessary[/QUOTE]
Ok hot water I never heard of that an how much calmag u think I should up I told you I give 1/2a gallon I grow in soil ffof happy frog how many teaspoons help me bro[/QUOTE]
usually 4ml per gallon should be enough


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## NyQuilkush318 (Jul 24, 2014)

[QUthat's a teaspoon wrightE="chuck estevez, post: 10728792, member: 509695"]When the plant is ready to harvest, I pour boiling hot water over the roots. This starves the roots of oxygen and starts the breakdown of sugars,starches and chlorophyll. Leave it under the lights for 3 days, then harvest. No leaching or flushing necessary[/QUOTE]
Ok hot water I never heard of that an how much calmag u think I should up I told you I give 1/2a gallon I grow in soil ffof happy frog how many teaspoons help me bro[/QUOTE]
usually 4ml per gallon should be enough[/QUOTE]
So th


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## NyQuilkush318 (Jul 24, 2014)

[QOTE="NyQuilkush318, post: 10728811, member: 845790"][QUthat's a teaspoon wrightE="chuck estevez, post: 10728792, member: 509695"]When the plant is ready to harvest, I pour boiling hot water over the roots. This starves the roots of oxygen and starts the breakdown of sugars,starches and chlorophyll. Leave it under the lights for 3 days, then harvest. No leaching or flushing necessary[/QUOTE]
Ok hot water I never heard of that an how much calmag u think I should up I told you I give 1/2a gallon I grow in soil ffof happy frog how many teaspoons help me bro[/QUOTE]
usually 4ml per gallon should be enough[/QUOTE]
So th[/QUOTE]
O don't forget i use tap water citywater tap bro


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## chuck estevez (Jul 24, 2014)

NyQuilkush318 said:


> [QOTE="NyQuilkush318, post: 10728811, member: 845790"][QUthat's a teaspoon wrightE="chuck estevez, post: 10728792, member: 509695"]When the plant is ready to harvest, I pour boiling hot water over the roots. This starves the roots of oxygen and starts the breakdown of sugars,starches and chlorophyll. Leave it under the lights for 3 days, then harvest. No leaching or flushing necessary


Ok hot water I never heard of that an how much calmag u think I should up I told you I give 1/2a gallon I grow in soil ffof happy frog how many teaspoons help me bro[/QUOTE]
usually 4ml per gallon should be enough[/QUOTE]
So th[/QUOTE]
O don't forget i use tap water citywater tap bro[/QUOTE]
yeah, it won't hurt, they like a lot of that in flower.


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## bean101 (Jul 26, 2014)

ok so im a newbie and i have posted a few times on here while im in the process of learning how to do this its my first time growing and i didnt even plan on it i jus threw a few seeds out and they got this far without any help from me beside watering every now and them but i was wondering if some one could post a few pics for me since i cant...i was wandering if anyone has a pic of a plant in the begining stages of revegging and pic of a plant in the begining stages of becoming a herm..i think i fucked up my girls and i need something to compare them to...any help would b great


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## CoughyTime (Jul 29, 2014)

NyQuilkush318 said:


> Yeah tell me how you finsh bro I need the knowledge


When the plant is ready to harvest, I pour boiling hot water over the roots. This starves the roots of oxygen and starts the breakdown of sugars,starches and chlorophyll. Leave it under the lights for 3 days, then harvest. No leaching or flushing necessary[/QUOTE]
Ok hot water I never heard of that an how much calmag u think I should up I told you I give 1/2a gallon I grow in soil ffof happy frog how many teaspoons help me bro[/QUOTE]

Questions:
I assume you are using enough boiling hot water to kill the plant. True?
I know starches can break down to sugars, but what does sugar break down to, without involving yeast and fermentation?


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## bean101 (Aug 2, 2014)

are male plants good for anything besides pollination?


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## chuck estevez (Aug 2, 2014)

CoughyTime said:


> When the plant is ready to harvest, I pour boiling hot water over the roots. This starves the roots of oxygen and starts the breakdown of sugars,starches and chlorophyll. Leave it under the lights for 3 days, then harvest. No leaching or flushing necessary


Ok hot water I never heard of that an how much calmag u think I should up I told you I give 1/2a gallon I grow in soil ffof happy frog how many teaspoons help me bro[/QUOTE]

Questions:
I assume you are using enough boiling hot water to kill the plant. True?
I know starches can break down to sugars,* but what does sugar break down to*, without involving yeast and fermentation?[/QUOTE]acids,gases and alcohol.


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## burgertime2010 (Aug 8, 2014)

chuck estevez said:


> every problem I read on this page can be fixed very easy.
> 1. Quit using so much Bullshit
> 2. quit trying to be perfect on the p.h
> 3.quit using things like sweet, molasses,cal mag
> ...


 You know, I have heard a lot of this talk before and I always ask myself what is bullshit. For instance, There are things like Silicon, Humic acid, and a couple finishing powder products that have proven to be very beneficial to overall plant yeail. Keeping simple and streamlining is always better except when the bullshit works. I think the nutrients are only as good as the plants willingess to use them. Ph, ppm, and bloom boosters like house and gardens shooiting powder are products that are not optional.....they give you more out of your nutes. So, loving to death is not my style but I don't think you are saving money or increasing yeilds here. Just sayin


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## chuck estevez (Aug 8, 2014)

burgertime2010 said:


> You know, I have heard a lot of this talk before and I always ask myself what is bullshit. For instance, There are things like Silicon, Humic acid, and a couple finishing powder products that have proven to be very beneficial to overall plant yeail. Keeping simple and streamlining is always better except when the bullshit works. I think the nutrients are only as good as the plants willingess to use them. Ph, ppm, and bloom boosters like house and gardens shooiting powder are products that are not optional.....they give you more out of your nutes. So, loving to death is not my style but I don't think you are saving money or increasing yeilds here. Just sayin


I just pulled 3 grams short of a qp off 1 OG plant by upgrading my lights and only using jack's citrus feed start to finish, so NO, I don't NEED silica, I don't NEED bloom Boosters, I don't NEED High P/K Nutes, I don't NEED shooting powder, What I do NEED, is the money I save not buying these products.


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## burgertime2010 (Aug 8, 2014)

I recently tried a method of flushing that seems to work. It is one heavy flush and then I raise the ph out of range to lockout all nutrients. I don't know that it works as well but theoretically it sounded interesting. A plant cant use what it cant eat...right?


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## chuck estevez (Aug 8, 2014)

burgertime2010 said:


> I recently tried a method of flushing that seems to work. It is one heavy flush and then I raise the ph out of range to lockout all nutrients. I don't know that it works as well but theoretically it sounded interesting. A plant cant use what it cant eat...right?


just pour boiling hot water over the roots, does the same thing but faster.


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## burgertime2010 (Aug 8, 2014)

chuck estevez said:


> I just pulled 3 grams short of a qp off 1 OG plant by upgrading my lights and only using jack's citrus feed start to finish, so NO, I don't NEED silica, I don't NEED bloom Boosters, I don't NEED High P/K Nutes, I don't NEED shooting powder, What I do NEED, is the money I save not buying these products.





chuck estevez said:


> I just pulled 3 grams short of a qp off 1 OG plant by upgrading my lights and only using jack's citrus feed start to finish, so NO, I don't NEED silica, I don't NEED bloom Boosters, I don't NEED High P/K Nutes, I don't NEED shooting powder, What I do NEED, is the money I save not buying these products.


Run your show however you want and for a hundred dollars more I will too. You don't need anything but there is a benefit to the products. I am not a big spender but the bloom booster is the only expensive supplement and 15-25% increase in the end everytime. Things like humic acid actually end up saving you money. I get them in bulk and they enable me to use less fertilizer, the info is out there and properly using the products is a big part of it. I dont think your advice would work for all plants in all mediums but you seem to be rocking it. My photo is a picture of plants with 4 weeks left, I pulled 50 oz in 60 days and the result was top shel and delicious.


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## chuck estevez (Aug 8, 2014)

burgertime2010 said:


> Run your show however you want and for a hundred dollars more I will too. You don't need anything but there is a benefit to the products. I am not a big spender but the bloom booster is the only expensive supplement and *15-25% increase in the end *every time. Things like humic acid actually end up saving you money. I get them in bulk and they enable me to use less fertilizer, the info is out there and properly using the products is a big part of it. I dont think your advice would work for all plants in all mediums but you seem to be rocking it. My photo is a picture of plants with 4 weeks left, I pulled 50 oz in 60 days and the result was top shel and delicious.


 I saw my yields increase when I gave up the boosters and bloom foods, I run several different strains, all in pro-mix using veg nutes at low amounts every time i water. I finish with healthy plants, that was the best thing for increasing yield, UNTIL i got a gavita pro, That damn thing near doubled my yield. Wanna guess what I'm buying next? It isn't shooting powder,lol


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## Presidentnixon (Aug 12, 2014)

I kind of feel too intimidated to even ask anymore questions on this thread but I can't figure this out. It's on my outdoor plant. All the leaves are doing this. I thought maganese def, but when I scrutinize the illustrated leaf chart, it all starts to look the same. So here it is:


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## joespit (Sep 7, 2014)

nick17gar said:


> yea thanks for the responses guys! its hard to find pics of abundances of chems, so if you guys come across them, send them to me and ill edit that post.
> Happy growing!


 i think I've an toxicity abundance?


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## TinTizzy (Oct 10, 2014)

Presidentnixon said:


> I kind of feel too intimidated to even ask anymore questions on this thread but I can't figure this out. It's on my outdoor plant. All the leaves are doing this. I thought maganese def, but when I scrutinize the illustrated leaf chart, it all starts to look the same. So here it is:
> View attachment 3227575 View attachment 3227576


Looks like overwatering causing mag lockout...whole plant pic would help


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## grasscropper (Oct 10, 2014)

Presidentnixon said:


> I kind of feel too intimidated to even ask anymore questions on this thread but I can't figure this out. It's on my outdoor plant. All the leaves are doing this. I thought maganese def, but when I scrutinize the illustrated leaf chart, it all starts to look the same. So here it is:
> View attachment 3227575 View attachment 3227576


I too have had plants with leaves like this... and yes, the defiicienies etc. all seem to look very similar in the charts to me as well. My issues tend to be with watering to start... and things go from there. So whenI see issues I stop watering.... and wait.


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## flashlight (Oct 17, 2014)

great thread. thanks


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## Terk1974 (Nov 19, 2014)

http://www.growweedeasy.com/marijuana-symptoms-pictures 

I don't know if this had been posted already or if we are allowed to redirect to another site, I'm in no way affiliated with them but the pics are helpful in identifying what's going on.


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## lemmy714 (Nov 29, 2014)

Help...I came home from work as saw this. I have a small thrip infestation which I treated last night with soapy water. Other than that I have been fully organic using roots soil with a few organic amendments added to it. What has caused this?


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## Logan Burke (Dec 5, 2014)

My new go-to guide when problem's arise...thank you, great post!


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## Terk1974 (Dec 5, 2014)

I've heard several people complain about that when using roots, gnats as well, I'm not bashing them in any way I'm just saying I only bought one bag now I only buy hp p mix. I've never had pests in my grow room until I bought roots, now I can no longer make that statement, something about not sterilizing the soil in order to keep beneficial bacteria. Look it up to be sure but that is what I've heard and experienced. Look at my post right above yours, click the link, it shows an exact replica of your pic there with advice on how to solve it.


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## Jaydawg0420 (Dec 11, 2014)

You forgot to say 5.8 for soiless like peat moss pro mix!!!


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## organigrow (Dec 28, 2014)

very informative thnx


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## smellzlikeskunkyum (Jan 30, 2015)

Terk1974 said:


> I've heard several people complain about that when using roots, gnats as well, I'm not bashing them in any way I'm just saying I only bought one bag now I only buy hp p mix. I've never had pests in my grow room until I bought roots, now I can no longer make that statement, something about not sterilizing the soil in order to keep beneficial bacteria. Look it up to be sure but that is what I've heard and experienced. Look at my post right above yours, click the link, it shows an exact replica of your pic there with advice on how to solve it.


ts the ph I believe... I'm having issues here and there with roots organics stuff too. But still much better thn foxfarm and many others tho imo. 
Foxfarm had more thrips/gnats for me. Especially ocean forest. But yeah ro brand potting mix is acidic in ph if I'm thiking right. Causes more defciencies easily, and any extra stress or mistakes... and it really shows. But done right roots is great stuff. Very popular right now too.


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## lemmy714 (Jan 30, 2015)

It looks just like the ph issue I'm the link terk provided. It cleared up when I topped dressed with Oystershell and dolomite lime. 


smellzlikeskunkyum said:


> ts the ph I believe... I'm having issues here and there with roots organics stuff too. But still much better thn foxfarm and many others tho imo.
> Foxfarm had more thrips/gnats for me. Especially ocean forest. But yeah ro brand potting mix is acidic in ph if I'm thiking right. Causes more defciencies easily, and any extra stress or mistakes... and it really shows. But done right roots is great stuff. Very popular right now too.


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## lemmy714 (Jan 30, 2015)

The thrips were wiped out easily with Monterey garden insect spray with spinosad. It worked like a charm


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## smellzlikeskunkyum (Jan 31, 2015)

Yep soap pesticide etc... like spinosad... bought some spray at the dro shop. Thrips are bye bye.

I'm a firm believer in hot shot no pest strips too. Saved a whole house with em. Thrips and mites hate them but they don't work for gnats/flies.

And dear god does roots organic "Surge" stink bad. Careful! Its way more concentrated than some of their other nutes. Lil bit goes long ways. Use roots- buddha grow and bloom and with proper conditions u get great results. Easy too. The bloom has Cal in it too. I have the HP2 nute too. 0-5-0 npk. Liquid bat guano. 
Its already showing improvements in later flower adding the HP2. The Surge is 2-2-0.5. So aslong as u know what ure doing u can use it allthe way up to thend as long as u back off of it for the high nitrogen. 

Use roots trinity too but don't understand it fully. Geussing its much like using organic real deal molasses from cane. In a way idk... I used to get by on cheap 10-10-10 by viogro and that good molasses with a bit of epsom salts too. It DID work. But the cheap nutes kill good bacteria n stuff. So the real nutes are better imo/ime.

Thrips are more common than people think too btw. Little nasty vampires that suck upthe plants juices/nutes, stain leaves typically as they eat up them up. Can screw upyur nutes evenif bad enough.


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## weednurd420 (Mar 30, 2015)

whats this look like ?? https://www.rollitup.org/t/is-this-led-light-bleaching-or-what.865964/


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## Josh2015 (Apr 8, 2015)

Can anyone tell me why fan leaves are looking like this? Been flowering three weeks in coco ppms around 600-700 and ph perfect. I drain to waste. Had to use a foliar for a small bug problem two days ago. Thinking it burned leaves maybe? Idk it looks unlike any burn I've ever seen if so.


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## Josh2015 (Apr 8, 2015)




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## az2000 (Apr 8, 2015)

Josh2015 said:


> Had to use a foliar for a small bug problem two days ago. Thinking it burned leaves maybe? Idk it looks unlike any burn I've ever seen if so.


I've seen that pattern before. It looks like mg because it's between the veins. But, it's so blotchy, with clear edges (like digital camouflage) it doesn't look like mg def. It was also a creamier/tan color, not the fade into yellow like mg def.

Back when I had it, I found a deficiency chart which showed the exact same thing and it said "ph fluctuation." But, I've since done some crazy things with ph (like watering with hydrated lime at ph 10) and haven't seen it again. So, I'm inclined to believe that deficiency chart was wrong.

I've since suspected it was light burn from water on the leaves. And, that this unusual pattern was a result of the water spreading more than beading. I've wiped off beads and had faded areas that were exactly where I wiped it down (the water remained smeared).

If what you fed had a surfactant to spread the insecticide, and if you left your plants under the lights while it was wet, I think it was light burn (magnified by the water). Maybe and/or the ingredients burning?


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## Josh2015 (Apr 8, 2015)

I think magnifying bc after I sprayed and it dried there was still a clear film. And it's like the green from the lead is flaking away. It almost looks between veins but a lot of other spots are just wherever no rhyme or reason. I sprayed rosenthals pesticide. Pretty reputable stuff I thought. And I diluted 50:50 with water. Idk burnt hairs a lil as well. Effin spider mites


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## OneHitDone (Apr 21, 2015)

Just wanted to get a few opinions on this.
I believe it to be a calcium issue but could be wrong.
Any thoughts? Thanks


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## superloud (May 7, 2015)

I didn't see pics of this can u all help?


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## Loto (May 27, 2015)

outdoor plant in large pot. I made up my own potting mix. started with MG potting mix, added perlite, peat moss, worm castings, crushed egg shells. feed fish emulsion, dr earth nutes. my 4th grow. overall my plants are doing well but one plant had this starting on a couple of the lower fan leave. I was thinking calcium deficiency but would appreciate your thoughts on a solution. Thanks!


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## Loto (May 28, 2015)

here is the plant for post 580 ... overall, she appears to be doing well


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## Sativa-Lov3r (Jun 22, 2015)

Thank you Nick for this amazing post. 
I've read tons of stuff on RUI and learned plenty in the last 2-3 month. I've yet to come across a post that packs all this useful info in one post. This is my first grow and I'm doing it in soil and using only organic fertz. 
BTW this is my first reply on RIU  

Thank you again man.


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## matto70799 (Jun 27, 2015)

Great info, unfortunately almost all of the pics have been removed. Please repost!! I'm trying to figure out what's up into garden. I know my water has no iron in it, just confirmed that yesterday. Odd for an old home but I have a well and a new filter setup on the whole home line, I guess it works (lol). I've been battling something I'm not sure yet if it's calcium deficiency (also have very soft water), or if it's K deficiency. I switched to a new nute (Flying Skull) and neglected to put any of the bloom mix with the grow mix the first week (I'm in late veg) but their grow mix is straight N no P or K, the second week I added 1/4 of the amount of bloom mix as called for during bloom when I made up my grow nute. The issue didn't show itself until 2 days ago and to me the timing makes sense for K deficiency. Today, I dumped my reservoir and mixed up a fresh batch of TechnaFlora BC nutes, hope that does the trick. Pics attached. If anyone has any tips or knows what I'm showing in my pics please let me know. I think the poss is low but it could be nute burn being in old growth, not new, and mainly in the tips and teeth tips of the leaf serrations. Thanks in advance for any ideas.
I'll have to post pics in a minute. Won't let me from my phone today.


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## panchin20 (Jul 2, 2015)

Hi guys, its my first time growing,I got northern lights autoflower its 40 days from seed, one of my plants its not growing like the other one and the color is diferent, im giving them 2-7-7 schultz, 1 100 watts and 2 60 watts cfls 7 hours of sunshine 4 times a week cuz of the clima, you have any idea why the other one is growing like that ill send some pics


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## Alexander Supertramp (Jul 2, 2015)

panchin20 said:


> Hi guys, its my first time growing,I got northern lights autoflower its 40 days from seed, one of my plants its not growing like the other one and the color is diferent, im giving them 2-7-7 schultz, 1 100 watts and 2 60 watts cfls 7 hours of sunshine 4 times a week cuz of the clima, you have any idea why the other one is growing like that ill send some pics


They both look to showing signs of a Nitrogen deficiency. One a bit more than the other. You need more N in their diet and less P.


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## panchin20 (Jul 2, 2015)

What about 10-15-10, I was using that in the beginning


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## Alexander Supertramp (Jul 2, 2015)

panchin20 said:


> What about 10-15-10, I was using that in the beginning


It will help with the N deficiency. But still too much P IMO.


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## panchin20 (Jul 2, 2015)

Any stuff that I can use, I want to grow some good stuff, thanks alexander


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## newguy1 (Jul 17, 2015)

Can anyone tell me what's going on with my girls it's like they are dying in front of my eyes the leafs are weird looking and hooking and cork screwing and they are yellow but ruff yellow. They are clones and they had this problem from the day I got them when they were like 4 inches big maybe 6 inches. It went away after I transplanted from the little solo cup to a gallon and a half, but it is now back they are in 5 gallon buckets with plenty of drainage and I been keeping ph at 6 2-6.5 I am also using soil for nutes I'm using the flora grow flora bloom and flora micro with calmag+ and GH root enhancer. They are in week 6 of veg. Someone please help. The TDS going in is 780-850 TDS coming out is 950-1100. PH in and out is 6.2-6.5. I have a good dose if the Flora grow and calmag and micro with a little bloom. The soil is recycled from my last grow. But I don't think that's a problem because I got the clones and the leafs were the same just not as bad or no were near.


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## VrgnGrwr (Jul 31, 2015)

Thanks for the valuable info I think i am in the nute burn nitrogen deficiency section, so I will stay calm not panic and flush slowly. Thanks again


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## Sativa-Lov3r (Aug 10, 2015)

Thank you for posting this helpfull thread. Learned a great deal. Thanks again.


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## Dreday55 (Aug 17, 2015)

What could this be


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## ADP710 (Sep 1, 2015)

This is my first time growing, ive done alot of research and consider myself somewhat educated on growing but ive run into a problem with my plant growing outdoors.The pistils on one branch are turning brown prematurely. The rest of the plant looks great its just the one branch. What could the problem be?
Bad Branch
  
Good Flowers


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## I'mPotheadTheSmokinMan (Sep 22, 2015)

I know this is way late to say it but this was f$&@!' awesome! Thank u for taking the time. 
I'd say nitro toxicity is a big prob for me as a new grower without proper drainage watch out fellow newbies!


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## aceyboiiiii (Sep 22, 2015)

Hi could someone tell me what problem i have as its only on the little bottom leaves wher i feed not the tops and only 1 on each plant and how could i fix the problem thanks


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## AdamSaveAStrain (Oct 6, 2015)

Hey all! Can't help it...FULL blown panic mode right now.. So I feel like I have several deficiencies mostly P and K? due to flushing out probably all nuits with Bushdoctors Sledgehammer. After using the Sledgehammer as directed from chart i did some research and read nothing but horror stories. The next day after using it and my girls are in terrible shape. Here are the pics. Could this happen from just one flush? Should I hit them again with the normal mix and hope for a recovery? FF/BD Nuits. Week 7 flower. Medium is Sunshine Advanced mix. 55% peat moss 45% coco, (added perlite)...ph run off is about 6. 27gal totes, 1000w HPS per tree.


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## tropicalcannabispatient (Oct 6, 2015)

Who knows why the back of leaves turn purple? My 2 weeks old seedlings are showing that under the leaves. Maybe genetics? Or cold temperatures? Im growing aurora indica. Tnx in advance for the help!!


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## king lebron (Oct 8, 2015)

Hello guys ssory to bother this thread, i just wan to share my grow, and ask about her problem. 


the leaves just keep growing and the supposedly bud sites are not having actual buds, just new leaf growth all over, but every new leaf growth has pistils too, what is happening?



pistils growing every node of the plant so definitely its a female (not sure if it will turn to be hermie later on, i wish it wont.

Does it look good for week 1 flowering ? This plant actually flowered the last couple of months then was interrupted by light leak and made it reveg for weeks, 
After fixing those light leaks, it took 4 weeks to recover and restart the flowering again. By now its 1week 2 days, 

DOES IT LOOK RIGHT FOR 1 WEEK OF FLOWERING? 
  
My seeds came from an outdoor plant, on a marijuana farm and grew like 6 ft tall. Is it possible to grow its seeds indoors and make it smaller than the mother plant that is a landrace sativa.


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## NwDankBuds (Oct 16, 2015)

Hey everyone, just finished buying the last of my equipment and wanted to be sure my lovely ladies are in great health for the increase in light. Currently running 1x 4 light 200w T5 cpf, 2x 125w cpf (one red one blue) and 1x 200w cpf. Upgrading to 2x 600w high intensity bulbs, 1 hps 1 bmh. Started off with a little over fertilization but transplanted into 15gal pots and have been going pretty light since. Also I'm in a 50/50 mix of fox farms soil and coco.

Again looking for some advice to be sure my girls are ready for the light increase without too much stress. They are from seeds and about 12-13 weeks from when they had sprouted. Thinking another week or 2 under the new lights before flowering them.

Any advice would be great!
Thanks,
-Dank


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## jensen71 (Oct 23, 2015)

> Photos dude. of the entire plant, entire grow, affected leaves, dirt. i gotta know what your feeding, what the pH is, temps, humidity...
> 
> droopy? could be pH, could be overwatering, could be a micro nute deficiency causing weakened stems...
> Shriveled leaves... underwatering, micro nute deficiency, nute burn, pH burn, salt burn
> ...


I got something similar. Running DWC bubblers, temps range 74-79. plants are about 18-24 inches away from 250w MH. Gorilla Glue clones just transplanted a few days ago. They came with fn brown slime algae and since I ph between 5.5-5.9 everyday because its up to 6.5, its telling me that the slime is trying to gain a foothold, so I flushed out the system today and replenished with calmag RO water and fed base nutes at 25% strength. Im gathering the following is a N deficiency, yes? I'm moving the plants another foot away so that they will extend a little more. They've grown an inch over the past few days but were spotting yellow to brown on the inner part of the leaves not on the edge.

They started out like this:



Now, a few days later, they look like this before the water change.

 
Oh I did inoculate the netpot with freshly brewed tea as well knowing theres probably still algae building up in the rockwool before adding the nutes and pH'd to 5.5 to see if there is upward movement over night.


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## wascaptain (Oct 23, 2015)

this plant is in a 5 gallon dwc bucket. the plant was vegged for a month and is in 1st week of flower. the roots are mostly cables and not much fish bones on them. I haven't been using my nutes full strength, think that's the problem?  using AN sensie ph perfect and hobbyist bundle.


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## Colorado_White_Wash (Oct 27, 2015)

Is there any way to tell the difference between cal/mag deficiencies and toxicities?


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## jensen71 (Oct 27, 2015)

Colorado_White_Wash said:


> Is there any way to tell the difference between cal/mag deficiencies and toxicities?


Couldn't tell you. I always throw a scoopful of Epsom salt (aka magnesium sulfate) in the Heisenberg tea I make using RO water. The new shoots coming out of the tops of my clones aren't as yellow green anymore and the yellow on some of the leaves is disappearing. Hope you find an answer here.


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## Synergy_ (Nov 4, 2015)

Okay, so instead of starting a thread I thought I'd try here first. I know people talk about N tox/def or P and K def a LOT, but I've got a question about P and K tox. This happened using FF Big Bloom on an afternoon where I took a few Xanax and I guess wasn't thinking clearly (not a normal thing for me, and I could kick my own ass).

I'm pretty sure I mixed up the mixture the way I intended (it was mixed up on a different day than the mistake was made). I had 3 tblsp Big Bloom in 3L water. Anyways the first thing I noticed was the ones affected were all very droopy. This was 24 hours later. 48 hours later it was even a little worse. I was a bit stumped (although immediately attributed it to something I did the day before because I didn't remember a lot of things 100% clearly). 

What happened was I just gave them way too much. I tested the soil and the P and K was off the charts. Now, I've read from Jorge C that when this happens you can and will depending on how much you gave them, run into problems with magnesium, calcium, iron, zinc, and even manganese being deficient and now I'm noticing signs of that reddish rusty looking pattern starting on the edges of leaves and now on some of the older fan leaves had spread through the whole leaf in spots. Everything is still droopy. Before I knew what I thought was wrong all I knew to do was to flush them and I did so very well, twice. This didn't fix things and now I think at least one of them is probably going to die, one has come back pretty well, two remain pretty consistently bad, and then there's two that are still bad, but much better than the rest IMO. 

Mind you, if this was everything I'd be really really upset. I have others that are doing quite well and some that have now surpassed these in growth that started much later than them and are looking great. I had two others that are pretty healthy that I wanted to flower a while back and was waiting on these six because they should have been ready by now. I've taken them all out of tent and am about to just start flowering what's ready and moving the others in as they're ready (if I can get some of these older ones to that point). 

Okay, so seeing the Redding of the leaves I'm thinking calcium def or magnesium def. I'm new, so excuse me if any of this sounds way off. Now what I want to ask is, if you were in this situation what would you do to correct it the best you could, in order from first to last. I've waited longer than I should have to make try to make this right so maybe I'm too late and they're just going to go more and more downhill, but there's been a lot of other things going on as well so if they do then so be it. I do love em though, so if I can fix it at this point I'll do whatever I can. Let me know if you've seen this before or know how to fix it. If not and you're still a very experienced cultivator, chime in with what you'd do anyways please if you know and have a minute


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## Benches (Nov 10, 2015)

Well written articles, I could not get the attachments to come up though. I get getting an error message showing up.


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## squirt1961 (Nov 13, 2015)

nick17gar said:


> yea this info is on here already, some of it is scattered around. some of the info i got from other grow sites.
> 
> half the reason i wrote this was to compile it all onto 1 page for personal reference haha.


Thank you for this post everything all in one place awesome thread thank you again


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## Indica_jones (Nov 17, 2015)

Is this nitrogen deficiency? I'm not too sure how well you can see it but to describe it I'd say it's little yellow speckles


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## Jumfrey13 (Nov 19, 2015)

These are pictures of the same plant. Kandy Kush. This is the worst one in my friends garden. One of the pics is under CFL lights and the other pic is under a regular incandescent. I don't know if this is a burn or a deficiency. I'm in early veg. I believe whatever happened could be partly due to me overwatering. The other problem may be due to my ph being too low. I've been PH'ing from between 5.5-5.9, when i should be pH'ing between 6.0-6.5. I am going to change both of these problems. Please diagnose.


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## Árboles verdes (Nov 24, 2015)

Can anyone help a poor ol noob, thanks


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## squirt1961 (Nov 24, 2015)

I've been having a root rot problem and it started looking like this last week I'd check that out. My baby looked like it was doing great then all of a sudden it started wilting but the dark spots were noticed first.


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## Árboles verdes (Nov 24, 2015)

Is there anything to do against root rot?


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## squirt1961 (Nov 24, 2015)

Hydroguard is supposed to work pretty good I'm treating mine with it now plus cleaned hydro system with bleach rinsed well and changed water also I've recently learned if water temp is kept at 68 or lower it helps more oxygen stay in water and helps promote disease free water as bacteria breeds in warmer water. From what I understand roots that are damaged cannot be fixed but new healthy roots can continue to grow. At first it looked like I had a mag def. but it turned out to be root rot. This is my first experience with root rot I've been reading all I can on subject and trying known fixes I'll keep posting as to my success or failure to see if I was successful


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## Árboles verdes (Nov 24, 2015)

Awesome, im going to start looking into it right now, thank you


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## Terry385 (Nov 24, 2015)

Árboles verdes said:


> Is there anything to do against root rot?


http://www.skunklabshc.com/shop.html
i use this line up with the tea complete no more root rot in my dwc your setup must be right no lite coming in right amount of air bubbles 
i'v used hydograurd ,H202, dutch master zone, Physan 20....with no luck comes back
Good Luck fighting that...


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## squirt1961 (Nov 24, 2015)

I'll keep that in mind I've seen good reviews for hydroguard so I tried it yesterday I'm thinking it'll be about a week till I see any results if no luck then I'll just start again from scratch. I've had great success in past growing my ladies in hydro and in garden soil but no luck with soil in pots so I'm going to stick with hydro for now. If again no luck then I'll have to rethink my options. Now if it was legal in Ohio I wouldn't have to try so hard I'd have options but alass these ppl in Ohio can't think or vote for themselves sorry got off subject just pisses me off that it was voted down bunch of idiots. 
Well I'll still be growing luckily I had a hellava yield this year so I've got my own supply for now of quality buds. But it won't last long so I'll keep at it. 
Hopefully my clones will survive and flourish.


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## Árboles verdes (Nov 24, 2015)

Im using soil, im either watering too much or didnt use the right amout of nutes?


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## squirt1961 (Nov 24, 2015)

Could be. If anything use less nutes. It's too easy to over fertilize. Maybe let soil dry out first then flush with ph'd water in soil ph should be between 6.0-6.5. As soon as my problem started my ph would fluctuate up to 6.5 in hydro I try to keep it as close to 5.7 as poss. Overwatering seems to be my biggest problem every time I grow in soil. Good luck to you. I love growing weed .com has a great download book for plant care I'd check it out if you haven't yet. I'll try to find link for you.


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## squirt1961 (Nov 24, 2015)

I'm no expert just trying to help with info I've read or learned from other members on this site great place for answers


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## squirt1961 (Nov 24, 2015)

I love growing marijuana.com-plantcare-guide

Try this link to download also while there download the grow bible too lots of great info especially for soil


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## squirt1961 (Nov 24, 2015)

Sorry full site is I love growing marijuana . com 

IGLM.com


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## Árboles verdes (Nov 25, 2015)

Its cool, information about weed is always welcome, thanks for the info.


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## StealthGrow83 (Dec 24, 2015)

Hi,

i am a romanian grower for 5 years and I think its my 11th grow now. I started directly with a hydro system (aeroflow – I think its more a nft than a hydro system) and I still have many problems. So I hope I can get some useful information here. But first my setup:

1 x 400W HPS Lamp

1 x 600W HPS Lamp (the dimmer of my ballast is broken. Therefore I have to run this lamp on 600W)

1 x Aeroflo 10

1,2 m² tend

Nutes: Canna Aqua Vega & Flores, Rhizzotonic, Boost, CannaZym, PK 13/14

Strain: White Russian (Serious Seeds)


It´s the first time I grow this strain, since my last grows were Cheese and Mazar. So I grow from seed and let them grow under MH Lamps for 2 weeks since germination. When they where 6 inch tall I decided to put them into flowering. First I used tap water and mixed it with the nuts following the recommendations by CANNA printed on the bottles. In Week 2 or 3 i´ve noticed a Magnesium deficiency so I´ve decided to mix tap water (EC 0.6) with Reverse Osmosis Water in a 50/50 Ratio because our tap water contains a lot of Calcium. I think its getting better, but there are still signs of Mg deficiency.

But the reason i´m writing is that I have a massive problem with Nitrogen abundance: i´ve reduced the nuts but the leafs are getting darker every day even though my EC isn´t that high -> 1.2! And CANNA recommends EC 1.8 or even higher! My Water tank is aprox. 24 Gallons (I know its huge, but my old water tank is broken and I only got this huge one to replace it). Finally my question: is it possible that the abundance is caused by the size of the tank? Could it be that there is too much Nitrogen in the solution even though I have a low EC? And if so: how much gallons should I use and how often should I change the water?

And my final question: anyone knows how to read in which stadium the plants are? Let me explain: now i´m in week 6 of flowering and according to CANNA it´s time to start with pk 13/14. But the buds aren´t that big and I guess I should wait a bit more… So, how do you decide when to use PK13/14.


Thanks


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## D-Rok (Jan 1, 2016)

My nephew is having issues with his plants...could someone please help diagnose this...i'm thinking lack of potassium, mostly on the plant in front but the back one is starting to show issues now.


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## D-Rok (Jan 1, 2016)

Doesn't look like the pic posted...


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## superloud (Jan 8, 2016)

Can any one help with this one? It's in flower right now I just checked this leaf and found bugs. So i m going to start sprayong. But is that causing the purple? Here is a link to my jurnal with my set up and all.
this HTML class. Value is http://rollitup.org/


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## OneHitDone (Jan 8, 2016)

Looks like Thrips? If so break out the Spinosad


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## superloud (Jan 8, 2016)

OneHitDone said:


> Looks like Thrips? If so break out the Spinosad


Spinosad? Can I get that at like home Depot or something


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## BossBnell (Jan 28, 2016)

Vanilla Kush 
This is her 26th day from seed. 2 days ago I started noticing the color changing on the leaves. Don't know what it could be as this is my first grow. I am using a Mars hydro 144X 5 reflector and it is 20 inches away. Using a 5 gallon bucket for deep water culture with plenty of air reaching the roots. I am using techna flora nutes at 1/4 strength. The Ph has been between 5.8 and 6.3. Any help is appreciated. Thank you


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## squirt1961 (Jan 28, 2016)

BossBnell said:


> View attachment 3596115
> View attachment 3596116 View attachment 3596117
> Vanilla Kush
> This is her 26th day from seed. 2 days ago I started noticing the color changing on the leaves. Don't know what it could be as this is my first grow. I am using a Mars hydro 144X 5 reflector and it is 20 inches away. Using a 5 gallon bucket for deep water culture with plenty of air reaching the roots. I am using techna flora nutes at 1/4 strength. The Ph has been between 5.8 and 6.3. Any help is appreciated. Thank you


Sounds like your off to a good start. I also use Technaflora the full recipe for success on my 4 grow with same system as you. I've got an absolutely georgous blue mystic lady growing will be harvesting within next few weeks. If you start to notice what look like rust spots on upper leaves you might want to raise light I'm running a king 800 led and they recommend 36" above canopy I keep mine around 26-28". I use an Apollo 180watt ufo for supplemental lighting they recommend 18-24" for that one. Only problem with LED I see is consistency gotta play with hieghts. Good luck


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## BossBnell (Jan 28, 2016)

squirt1961 said:


> Sounds like your off to a good start. I also use Technaflora the full recipe for success on my 4 grow with same system as you. I've got an absolutely georgous blue mystic lady growing will be harvesting within next few weeks. If you start to notice what look like rust spots on upper leaves you might want to raise light I'm running a king 800 led and they recommend 36" above canopy I keep mine around 26-28". I use an Apollo 180watt ufo for supplemental lighting they recommend 18-24" for that one. Only problem with LED I see is consistency gotta play with hieghts. Good luckView attachment 3596284 View attachment 3596291 View attachment 3596284 View attachment 3596291



Awesome to hear squirt. I greatly appreciate your input! Yeah I chose DwC this time as I never have had luck with soil in the past, and last time I tried mH and HPS I didn't have good ventilation so I figured LED would be more suitable for me. So far I haven't had a problem with the Technaflora the full recipe for success kit and I can't complain as a buddy of mine at the local hydro store gave me the whole kit for free as a sample. I have recently raised the lights to 24 inches, but might raise a bit more if need to. Thank you once again squirt.


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## BossBnell (Jan 28, 2016)

Also I hope your harvest goes well with the blue mystic! She looks beautiful.


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## squirt1961 (Jan 29, 2016)

BossBnell said:


> Also I hope your harvest goes well with the blue mystic! She looks beautiful.


Thanks I'm always willing to help fellow growers I too have had problems with soil. I like the recipe for success but after the small kit size be prepared to pay a little unless your buddy will give free just the b1 thrive alive red in a liter was 54 bucks but I'm still very happy with products. I'm using 5 gal DWC with dripper ring. I plant in rockwool and then surround and cover with hydroton. A small thing that will help take your setup up to next level would be climate control room temp between 72-77° F and water/nutes res.at between 62-68°F. Makes a big difference for plants and rootzone colder water = more oxygen. Also make sure she gets plenty of fresh air. I also use exhale to add CO2 to my grow room. 32 bucks a bag and it lasts 6 months.pic shows plant at Second week of veg. Just to show you the dripper. You don't need a water pump the kit is about 15 bucks comes with drop tube ring and filler tube with grommets. Runs on air to create vacuum to dripper ring


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## landry (Jan 30, 2016)

Nutrient lockout
Should i flush this plant ???it is the first time i overfeed a plant it is at week 5 of flowering and i wonder if i should let it go like this feeding her with only plain water for a while or if its a serious nutrients lockout and i need to flusf it right away??? Any advice would be apreciated


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## squirt1961 (Jan 30, 2016)

Doesn't look that bad but flushing will never hurt. If anything flushing will always help prevent salt buildup in my humble opinion.


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## landry (Jan 30, 2016)

squirt1961 said:


> Doesn't look that bad but flushing will never hurt. If anything flushing will always help prevent salt buildup in my humble opinion.


Thank you for the advice i think i will give it a little flush in a few days


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## squirt1961 (Jan 30, 2016)

OK good luck just make sure ph is right 5.7 for hydro and around 6.5 for soil.


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## THCNBEER (Jan 31, 2016)

Can someone please help me identify my problem. I am about 5 weeks into flowering using all general organics go box fox farms of and watering r/0 water. Any advice appreciated


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## BossBnell (Feb 1, 2016)

squirt1961 said:


> Thanks I'm always willing to help fellow growers I too have had problems with soil. I like the recipe for success but after the small kit size be prepared to pay a little unless your buddy will give free just the b1 thrive alive red in a liter was 54 bucks but I'm still very happy with products. I'm using 5 gal DWC with dripper ring. I plant in rockwool and then surround and cover with hydroton. A small thing that will help take your setup up to next level would be climate control room temp between 72-77° F and water/nutes res.at between 62-68°F. Makes a big difference for plants and rootzone colder water = more oxygen. Also make sure she gets plenty of fresh air. I also use exhale to add CO2 to my grow room. 32 bucks a bag and it lasts 6 months.pic shows plant at Second week of veg. Just to show you the dripper. You don't need a water pump the kit is about 15 bucks comes with drop tube ring and filler tube with grommets. Runs on air to create vacuum to dripper ring



Sorry for my delay in reply squirt. I have been re arranging/ working out a few things with my grow space. Yeah soil isn't my thing. Plus I like the quicker results in hydroponics. Damn that is quite a bit just for the thrivealive B1 red, but I'm certain it is well worth it in the long run. I hope the sample kit lasts me til the end with what I'm dealing with now. Maybe I can talk to him but if the product is good quality then I understand having to pay for it 

I don't have a dripper ring so mine is just the standard DWC set up: 5 gallon bucket reservoir, hydroton, air pump, air stones, and a netpot. I'm pretty interested in getting a dripper ring for my next attempt though!! Especially because I sorta get confused on watering. Here is what I do for my watering process: 10 minutes before lights on occur. I just simply take a clear plastic cup. Dip it in the reservoir after I have tested the PH to make sure everything is ok and Then lastly I pour the water over all the hydroton in the netpot. I usually do that 3 times a day. Is this too much? Not enough ? Does it need to be done more than that? The hydroton always looks like it is no longer wet within an hour but I don't want to over water either. (If you can even over water in DWC?) i know as long as oxygen is being supplied to the roots then the roots won't have a problem or issue "drowning." I know hydroton holds some of the water and helps with humidity so I would hate to be watering too much. 


I as well plant in Rockwool cubes; although I have had trouble with rockwool in the past with its alkaline PH and it ruined about 5 of my plants in their beginning stages. (even after previously soaking it in a PH of 5) Now I just cut the rockwool cube in half and I don't really have the issues anymore as the roots get through the bottom of the rockwool quicker. 

After I plant my germinated seeds in rockwool I then plant the rockwool in the netpot surrounded with hydroton as well. 

In fact what delayed my response was that I have been working a bit more on the climate control. I recently went out and bought an accurite device that tells me the temp and humidity and a Lasko box fan. Ever since I placed these items in there I've noticed that my temps stay in between 72° and 85°. ( daytime is usually 79° to 85° and nighttime is usually between 72° and 78°) 
Is 85° pushing it ? 
Humidity is usually between 28% and 40%
Hmmmmm I'm not quite sure as to what my nute/ water reservoir temp may be so I may need to get something soon for that. Although at times I do put in frozen water bottles just for shits and giggles to make sure I cool the water down in the reservoir a bit. 
Okay to plenty of fresh air. The fan in there now moves the air around so I already know that's helped. I just got done researching more about the eXhale CO2.


Damn you just draw me closer and closer to that dripper squirt hahaha. Right now I'm lookin at a decent reliable PPm meter to order.


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## BossBnell (Feb 1, 2016)

Right now she's sitting in 4 fresh gallons of water which is PH'd to 5.8
In about two hours I'll probably add the fresh batch of Nutes and PH to 5.5 or 5.6 and this time I will do half of the recommended dosage instead of 1/4 strength. Today would officially put her at the end of her 1st month. 

 My next question would be when is a good time to start LST ing? I thought at least 6 inches but wanted to get some input. 


Lastly, here are two more I just began and planted in their DWC netpots. 
Chocolate heaven from G13 labs


And 
Blue venom from G13 labs


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## squirt1961 (Feb 1, 2016)

BossBnell said:


> View attachment 3598498 View attachment 3598499 View attachment 3598500
> Right now she's sitting in 4 fresh gallons of water which is PH'd to 5.8
> In about two hours I'll probably add the fresh batch of Nutes and PH to 5.5 or 5.6 and this time I will do half of the recommended dosage instead of 1/4 strength. Today would officially put her at the end of her 1st month.
> 
> ...


As far as LST goes I usually wait till stems are about 8-10" long and start tying them down usually about a month and a half depending on strain. The idea is to make all the colas the same hieght that way they get the most light. Do you also top a couple times or fim there are different views to this but whatever works best for you is really all that counts. And yes I think 85° is too hot i try to keep my grow room at 77-78° max you should also try to raise humidity for now closer to 55-60% during veg 40-50% during flower less toward the end of flowering. Good luck check out I love growing marijuana for some great info from Robert Bergmans a world class grower and teacher. You can get his grow bible and plant care ebooks free on his site. I'm actually a student of his. Learning to be an expert in the future of growing


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## squirt1961 (Feb 1, 2016)

THCNBEER said:


> Can someone please help me identify my problem. I am about 5 weeks into flowering using all general organics go box fox farms of and watering r/0 water. Any advice appreciated


It's a little hard to tell from pics but looks like heat problem to me at first I'll look into it more from your pics and see what I can find probably won't get back to you today but by tomorrow I should have more info


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## THCNBEER (Feb 2, 2016)

It stays at 80 degrees and I have a 400cfm extraction fan and also a online booster coming straight from the AC. I REALLY appreciate the feedback. I think it's a deficiency of some sort and have done a lot of research but cant really find anything that looks like this. There is no pests and I am using all organic products mainly go box with fox farms ocean Forrest soil. Supplemented with azomite and dolomite lime. I will post more pictures In about 30 mins


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## THCNBEER (Feb 2, 2016)

These are two different plants and two different strains both now showing like red purple tinge on the leaves. I know it's normal to lose leaves during flower but I have lost about 70 percent of all the big fan leaves by those weird colors I showed them turning yellow then rolling up at the leave tip and becoming crispy then falling off. I water with r/o water every time and go like theirs water-feed-water-feed etc.. Using General organics go box


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## squirt1961 (Feb 2, 2016)

I looked at every resource I have I cant find it either only suggestion I can give is try flushing a few times get rid of whatever may be causing problems and then start your nute regimen again I grow hydro so soil isn't really my thing sorry wish I could help more. Let me know if you find the problem. Hopefully flushing should help use RO if possible ph around 6.5. Good luck


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## squirt1961 (Feb 2, 2016)

THCNBEER said:


> These are two different plants and two different strains both now showing like red purple tinge on the leaves. I know it's normal to lose leaves during flower but I have lost about 70 percent of all the big fan leaves by those weird colors I showed them turning yellow then rolling up at the leave tip and becoming crispy then falling off. I water with r/o water every time and go like theirs water-feed-water-feed etc.. Using General organics go boxView attachment 3599537 View attachment 3599536 View attachment 3599534 View attachment 3599535 View attachment 3599536 View attachment 3599537 View attachment 3599534 View attachment 3599537 View attachment 3599535


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## squirt1961 (Feb 2, 2016)

Have you looked at Molybdenum deficiency it might be your problem after looking again it looks close the lower your ph is the more susceptible to Molybdenum deficiency important to keep it closer to 6.5 in soil I know I'm repeating myself I also copied your pics and sent them to an expert grower I know hopefully he will know exactly what problem is. Good luck


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## squirt1961 (Feb 2, 2016)

Molybdenum defiency


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## THCNBEER (Feb 3, 2016)

Thank you and I actually did look into that and I have some of the symptoms but not all. If I had to guess I would think it was that tho. so I think I am just going to flush and hope for the best. Thanks again for your help tho dude


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## squirt1961 (Feb 4, 2016)

THCNBEER said:


> Thank you and I actually did look into that and I have some of the symptoms but not all. If I had to guess I would think it was that tho. so I think I am just going to flush and hope for the best. Thanks again for your help tho dude


Anytime dude good luck hope that helps


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## BossBnell (Feb 5, 2016)

squirt1961 said:


> As far as LST goes I usually wait till stems are about 8-10" long and start tying them down usually about a month and a half depending on strain. The idea is to make all the colas the same hieght that way they get the most light. Do you also top a couple times or fim there are different views to this but whatever works best for you is really all that counts. And yes I think 85° is too hot i try to keep my grow room at 77-78° max you should also try to raise humidity for now closer to 55-60% during veg 40-50% during flower less toward the end of flowering. Good luck check out I love growing marijuana for some great info from Robert Bergmans a world class grower and teacher. You can get his grow bible and plant care ebooks free on his site. I'm actually a student of his. Learning to be an expert in the future of growing



Awesome thank you very much Squirt. I'm probably going to start LST ing today. I've never topped or fimmed as I don't want to fuck anything up. I haven't even cut the dead leaves off my plant. I just wait for them to get crinkly and crispy and fall off on their own. Humidity is more my problem right now. It stays at 25-30% unless I put a pot of water in there. Then it raises to 55-60%. I got the temp situation down and have been at 74-77° during lights on and 66-73° at lights off. 
I'm going to check out Robert Bergman's I love growing Marijuana today as that sounds like a bunch of information can be used and found from there. That is bad ass that you are a student of his. I would love to get back into school and learn more about plants haha. Once again thank you for all the advice.


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## squirt1961 (Feb 6, 2016)

BossBnell said:


> Awesome thank you very much Squirt. I'm probably going to start LST ing today. I've never topped or fimmed as I don't want to fuck anything up. I haven't even cut the dead leaves off my plant. I just wait for them to get crinkly and crispy and fall off on their own. Humidity is more my problem right now. It stays at 25-30% unless I put a pot of water in there. Then it raises to 55-60%. I got the temp situation down and have been at 74-77° during lights on and 66-73° at lights off.
> I'm going to check out Robert Bergman's I love growing Marijuana today as that sounds like a bunch of information can be used and found from there. That is bad ass that you are a student of his. I would love to get back into school and learn more about plants haha. Once again thank you for all the advice.


Your welcome glad I could help have a good one


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## BossBnell (Feb 6, 2016)

squirt1961 said:


> Your welcome glad I could help have a good one


You as well bro


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## squirt1961 (Feb 6, 2016)

Anytime you need any advice feel free to contact me directly through the conversations tab on your profile. Have a good weekend keep it green


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## nick17gar (Mar 9, 2016)

THCNBEER said:


> I know it's normal to lose leaves during flower but I have lost about 70 percent of all the big fan leaves by those weird colors I showed them turning yellow then rolling up at the leave tip and becoming crispy then falling off.


Yup! its not a N deficiency, although upping it wont hurt. try finding some stuff with more trace elements.


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## THCNBEER (Mar 9, 2016)

I appreciate the advice but I harvested already got a 1/2 lb and turned out not to bad


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## Alexander Supertramp (Mar 9, 2016)

Its only normal to lose leaves during flower on these forums. There is nothing natural about it. Most often caused by high P and low N so called bloom foods. A healthy, happy plant being fed a proper diet will remain green all the way to harvest. And the plant in the pics at the top of this page looks to be N deficient for sure. The source leaves being the first to show top to bottom.


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## Alexander Supertramp (Mar 9, 2016)

squirt1961 said:


> Molybdenum defiency


Rolling my eyes.......... http://www.cropnutrition.com/nutrient-knowledge


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## THCNBEER (Mar 9, 2016)

It ended up being spider mites and I knew it was anything but normal but I managed to salvage it and make best of it. Two were clones(ones in pictures) and those were the two hit super hard and I suspect I bought them already infested bc no matter what I tried or what I did it just lost leaves and wouldn't grow "normal". I appreciate everyone's help here and without it I don't think I would have made it to flower.


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## squirt1961 (Mar 9, 2016)

THCNBEER said:


> View attachment 3627759 View attachment 3627760 I appreciate the advice but I harvested already got a 1/2 lb and turned out not to bad


Cool kick ass keep up the good work


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## THCNBEER (Mar 9, 2016)

Thanks dude I am preparing for round 2 and have been waiting until I can get some legit kick as genetics


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## squirt1961 (Mar 10, 2016)

THCNBEER said:


> Thanks dude I am preparing for round 2 and have been waiting until I can get some legit kick as genetics



Awesome I just placed an order with nirvana myself today for 30 feminized seeds myself.gonna do 4 inside on hydro and 4 outside in soil this summer. Inside grow will start in a week just packed last harvest in Mason jars today for curing.


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## THCNBEER (Mar 10, 2016)

Yeah I got mine in mason jars also and I looked at nirvana and others and can't decide on best place. I am
In so cal and am legal and would like clones but it's hard to find a legit reputable place without pm or mites etc... So seeds might be the way to go


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## jamesleemc (Mar 14, 2016)

THCNBEER said:


> Yeah I got mine in mason jars also and I looked at nirvana and others and can't decide on best place. I am
> In so cal and am legal and would like clones but it's hard to find a legit reputable place without pm or mites etc... So seeds might be the way to go


i have used nirvana a few time's and love them, a few of my friends love there swiss cheese...


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## Al Yamoni (Mar 18, 2016)

Ssh x 88g13hp
Couple weeks into bloom
Organic re amended soil, compost, Coco coir
Unconventional farmer ferments
(Carrot, squash, banana) for bloom
Alfalfa and fish for veg.
Calphos from fish bone meal and oyster shells.

I've been liberally feeding the bloom ferments at the recommended 4T per gallon, using the call phos with more caution.. They are hooked up to blumats with r/o water in the reservoir..

I hope I didn't forget anything..

   

Yellowing from the top down... My book says sulfur but then goes on to say that this shouldn't happen with soil if only rarely.. The seed did this too, this is the first run of the clones..


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## FranJan (Mar 18, 2016)

Al Yamoni said:


> Ssh x 88g13hp
> Couple weeks into bloom
> 
> 
> Yellowing from the top down... My book says sulfur but then goes on to say that this shouldn't happen with soil if only rarely.. The seed did this too, this is the first run of the clones..


Hey Al, what up? How about:
Phosphorous deficiency. 1st picture shows yellowing new growth, immobile element problem, and 2nd picture is classic phos. deficient leaves, red stems too.. Probably locked out from wet medium or crazy PH from all that stuff you're giving her, that's probably why your bone meal is doing diddly. Also oyster shell needs to breakdown completely before giving up it's phosphorus otherwise it might continue to absorb phosphorus, which could be another reason for your phosphor problems though I would think a PH lockout is what's going on.


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## Al Yamoni (Mar 18, 2016)

FranJan said:


> Hey Al, what up? How about:
> Phosphorous deficiency. 1st picture shows yellowing new growth, immobile element problem, and 2nd picture is classic phos. deficient leaves, red stems too.. Probably locked out from wet medium or crazy PH from all that stuff you're giving her, that's probably why your bone meal is doing diddly. Also oyster shell needs to breakdown completely before giving up it's phosphorus otherwise it might continue to absorb phosphorus, which could be another reason for your phosphor problems though I would think a PH lockout is what's going on.


Doing well, hope you are too Fran! Thanks for the reply. That was totally educational! I'll turn down the blumats and lay off the ferments. The oyster shell and fish bone meal are ground up with a mortal and pestle mixed with apple cider vinegar and then I put it all into a jar with more vinegar to extract. 5 parts vinegar to 1 part pulverized bone/oyster to make the cal phos and I just added that to the hand feed water at 1tsp/gallon at the beginning of bloom. Thanks again!


----------



## nick17gar (Mar 20, 2016)

FranJan said:


> Hey Al, what up? How about:
> Phosphorous deficiency. 1st picture shows yellowing new growth, immobile element problem, and 2nd picture is classic phos. deficient leaves, red stems too.. Probably locked out......


Agreed! if its not locked out, its just not getting enough.


----------



## BossBnell (Mar 22, 2016)

Hey everybody, just woke up to this. 

  

This is my vanilla Kush on her 87th day of VEG. I've been wanting to switch her over to flower but I want to switch her over to flower when she is her healthiest!! I only Vegged her for so long so I could hope to get a huge Yield In the future. Any input on what the deficiencies or lockout or any information that can obtain to her situation is greatly appreciated.  

Temp: 78° doesn't pass 80° lowest is 70°
Rez temps always cool switching water bottles every few hours 
Techna flora nutrients at 1/2 strength (the recipe for success) 

Humidity is always around 26 -35%. Hard to always bring this up. 

Normally the PH stays between 5.7 and 6.1 but lately for about the past 2-3 days the PH drops to 5ish to upper 4's every 3 hours and I don't know why. 

Unfortunately no PPM meter. I want to get one but don't have the funds for a fancy one. Maybe a $20 one but don't even know of one reliable enough. Once again thanks for any input!!


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## brettxhendo (Mar 24, 2016)

Great info in here!


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## PerfectGrower (Apr 12, 2016)

BossBnell said:


> Hey everybody, just woke up to this.
> 
> View attachment 3638592 View attachment 3638593 View attachment 3638594
> 
> ...





You really need to get a good EC/PPM meter. Your plants will thank you!!!


pH drops could be a number of things. Your plants have a nice root structure but the top half is having some serious issues.


Your plant could be underfed. pH could be dropping from the plants taking up nutrients causing a loss of buffering. 1/2 strength for a plant that size is probably a bit too low.



But first and foremost....lets get a PPM pen....even if its a cheap one and we can go from there!


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## BossBnell (Apr 12, 2016)

PerfectGrower said:


> You really need to get a good EC/PPM meter. Your plants will thank you!!!
> 
> 
> pH drops could be a number of things. Your plants have a nice root structure but the top half is having some serious issues.
> ...


Thank you very much


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## roachfinder (Apr 16, 2016)

I need help to distinguish of I have a nutrient deficiency or burn. Its only a couple plants out of 8. I have a soil coco coir mix. They are 10 days old. I'm using a very light mix of sensi grow part a and b. I'm also using voodoo juice, tarantula, piranha, b52. The new growth has a weird yellowing of the tips and just noticed small reddish spots on just 1. Not sure of the strain but it's feminized. Growing slow. The second plant is yellowish in the middle of the plant. New growth has kinda burnt tips. 3rd plant is a paleish green in the middle and new growth but the outer half of the big leaves are green. Also.....I'm using a pretty big led grow light about 3 ft. From the floor and the plants are in solo cups.


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## a mongo frog (Apr 16, 2016)

roachfinder said:


> I need help to distinguish of I have a nutrient deficiency or burn. Its only a couple plants out of 8. I have a soil coco coir mix. They are 10 days old. I'm using a very light mix of sensi grow part a and b. I'm also using voodoo juice, tarantula, piranha, b52. The new growth has a weird yellowing of the tips and just noticed small reddish spots on just 1. Not sure of the strain but it's feminized. Growing slow. The second plant is yellowish in the middle of the plant. New growth has kinda burnt tips. 3rd plant is a paleish green in the middle and new growth but the outer half of the big leaves are green. Also.....I'm using a pretty big led grow light about 3 ft. From the floor and the plants are in solo cups.


Do you think 7 bottles of plant food have something to do with it?


----------



## PerfectGrower (Apr 16, 2016)

roachfinder said:


> I need help to distinguish of I have a nutrient deficiency or burn. Its only a couple plants out of 8. I have a soil coco coir mix. They are 10 days old. I'm using a very light mix of sensi grow part a and b. I'm also using voodoo juice, tarantula, piranha, b52. The new growth has a weird yellowing of the tips and just noticed small reddish spots on just 1. Not sure of the strain but it's feminized. Growing slow. The second plant is yellowish in the middle of the plant. New growth has kinda burnt tips. 3rd plant is a paleish green in the middle and new growth but the outer half of the big leaves are green.


As you know, nutrient burn and deficiency are on opposite ends of the spectrum. What EC are you feeding? If you are going on the "light" side chances are you are under feeding. You are using a lot of expensive "additives". The A and B products are supplying 90% of the plant's food. We need to get those values right before adding the extras.


Any pictures?


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## PerfectGrower (Apr 16, 2016)

a mongo frog said:


> Do you think 7 bottles of plant food have something to do with it?



A lot of those bottles are extracts and bacteria/fungi. The real nutrition is coming from the A and B. What EC do you get after you mix only A and B?


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## a mongo frog (Apr 16, 2016)

PerfectGrower said:


> A lot of those bottles are extracts and bacteria/fungi. The real nutrition is coming from the A and B. What EC do you get after you mix only A and B?


Me personally? 600 ppm at 8 ml per gallon, ill add an enzyme after that and call it a day for the first 4 weeks of flower while barley increasing my base till week 5 then ill keep it at that till finish.


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## roachfinder (Apr 16, 2016)

I don't have a ppm meter. I put 1.5ml of the base nuts in a 1.75L bottle. And 3 ml of the addatives


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## roachfinder (Apr 16, 2016)

I couldn't get the lighting right to see the pale green color in the middle


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## roachfinder (Apr 16, 2016)

PerfectGrower said:


> A lot of those bottles are extracts and bacteria/fungi. The real nutrition is coming from the A and B. What EC do you get after you mix only A and B?


Well it's the root mass tribe your sapose to use them for the first 2 weeks of veg and bloom.


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## PerfectGrower (Apr 16, 2016)

roachfinder said:


> Well it's the root mass tribe your sapose to use them for the first 2 weeks of veg and bloom.


Ha they sure have a lot of people fooled 

I didnt realize you had seedlings. If you have soil and coco mixed....give pH'd water and microbes only. Let the plant figure out what life's all about before hitting her with any nutrients (especially when you have soil).


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## roachfinder (Apr 21, 2016)

Hey everyone need some help. I am sad to say that I had no idea what buffering coco coir was untill I just read it here. 
I had started 8 seeds in a soil and coco coir mix. I peeled the coco coir off the brick and just mixed it with soil and added a lil water so it would expand. That's it. Now one of my plants is purple around the whole edge of the fan leaves.......is this too much calcium??? I tried to get pictures and could not get the lighting right.......long story short I broke my phone. Any help would be get much apreciated


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## roachfinder (Apr 21, 2016)

Plant looks like is has a boron or sulfer deficiency....but that plant is not spindly. Then I was thinking too much calcium.... I just threw the coco coir in the cups. Its only one plant thou out of 8. Last night I noticed the edges of the 2 fan leaves were Brown.......today I can see purple and going on more of the leaf..... These are almost 2 week old seedlings...but they are small. The off colored spots are a purple color


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## roachfinder (Apr 21, 2016)

What causes purple leaves from the tips and edges...progressing inward.


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## EireAran420 (Apr 25, 2016)

My seedlings are about 10days old. One of my babies leaves are totally white. You know how the seedlings look after they just pop out of the ground and the stalk/stem is still white? Well my babys first set of leaves are green accept for one it is totally white and I have never seen this happen.mabye over watering with a low pH? I had 6 diffent stains 5 beans each and I fed them all with the same water. I think this one is just mutated or something what you think? Will I give her another week? if I see no change will I just toss her out?


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## EireAran420 (Apr 25, 2016)

roachfinder said:


> What causes purple leaves from the tips and edges...progressing inward.


Had the same prob last year but it turned out my grow space was falling below 10degre at night.


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## roachfinder (Apr 25, 2016)

EireAran420 said:


> My seedlings are about 10days old. One of my babies leaves are totally white. You know how the seedlings look after they just pop out of the ground and the stalk/stem is still white? Well my babys first set of leaves are green accept for one it is totally white and I have never seen this happen.mabye over watering with a low pH? I had 6 diffent stains 5 beans each and I fed them all with the same water. I think this one is just mutated or something what you think? Will I give her another week? if I see no change will I just toss her out?


That is weird to just have one leaf white. isnt that iron deficiency tho? If you can test your soil ph that would check one off the list. I usually nvr worry about it bc i have ph perfect advanced nutrients. i dont think it could be light burn if its just one leaf.....what lights are you using? I think i had my led light too close myself.....and deficiency.


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## roachfinder (Apr 25, 2016)

roachfinder said:


> That is weird to just have one leaf white. isnt that iron deficiency tho? If you can test your soil ph that would check one off the list. I usually nvr worry about it bc i have ph perfect advanced nutrients. i dont think it could be light burn if its just one leaf.....what lights are you using? I think i had my led light too close myself.....and deficiency.





EireAran420 said:


> Had the same prob last year but it turned out my grow space was falling below 10degre at night.


My temp gets up to about 80 sometimes and drops to about 71 at night. so your saying even though its not "cold", the fluctuation can mess with the plant?


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## EireAran420 (Apr 25, 2016)

roachfinder said:


> My temp gets up to about 80 sometimes and drops to about 71 at night. so your saying even though its not "cold", the fluctuation can mess with the plant?



I am using a 250watt cfl just to start them off. The pH should be fine. I ordered a new pH tester on eBay should be here in the next few days. I checked on them today. The leaf is still a pure white.dunno I'll leave it to see what happens. My leaves where turning purple because of the cold . but I have read that a drop of temp below 10 degrees below the day time temp, during the (night),can make the plant produce more ( chrophyll) chrophyll is the chemical that changes the colour in plant different strain's chrophll can produce many different colours and at different stages . I'm not 100% percent sure if that the correct spelling Chrophyll chrophylln .?? 
Baked


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## nick17gar (May 3, 2016)

if you ask me, 80F is kinda up there on temps


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## nick17gar (May 3, 2016)

roachfinder said:


> What causes purple leaves from the tips and edges...progressing inward.


Id like to see a pic of this. Purple could be lots of things, phosphorus definciency, or it could be the strain. post a pic and lets see


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## Olive Drab Green (May 3, 2016)

nick17gar said:


> if you ask me, 80F is kinda up there on temps


I run my plants at around 80. 70-80 degrees is typical. How do you think Mexican and African Sativa and Middle-Eastern and Himalayan weed grows? 23-27? Degrees celsius is optimum range.


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## Thomaspace00 (May 3, 2016)

help help pls  my ph is now 3.5 and all my shit is dying im 6 weeks into flowering and my ph keeps going down :/ i rly need help guys i dont knkow what to  do pls pls pls help only 23 days left now


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## PerfectGrower (May 3, 2016)

Thomaspace00 said:


> help help pls  my ph is now 3.5 and all my shit is dying im 6 weeks into flowering and my ph keeps going down :/ i rly need help guys i dont knkow what to View attachment 3672584 do pls pls pls help only 23 days left now



Am I wrong or does your meter say your pH is at the low 5 range?


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## Olive Drab Green (May 3, 2016)

Thomaspace00 said:


> help help pls  my ph is now 3.5 and all my shit is dying im 6 weeks into flowering and my ph keeps going down :/ i rly need help guys i dont knkow what to View attachment 3672584 do pls pls pls help only 23 days left now


Holy fuck, dude, use some pH up and possibly some cal-mag or epsom salt diluted in water. 3.5? Jesus..


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## Olive Drab Green (May 3, 2016)

PerfectGrower said:


> Am I wrong or does your meter say your pH is at the low 5 range?


Hey, you're right. He's like, 5.5.  It only needs a little bit of pH up or something. Should be alright.


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## Olive Drab Green (May 3, 2016)

Looks either like you need phosphorus and potassium, or you're just really close to harvest.


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## roachfinder (May 3, 2016)

nick17gar said:


> Id like to see a pic of this. Purple could be lots of things, phosphorus definciency, or it could be the strain. post a pic and lets see





nick17gar said:


> Id like to see a pic of this. Purple could be lots of things, phosphorus definciency, or it could be the strain. post a pic and lets see


All 8 of my plants turned purple. There's 3 different strains...1 is unknown and I have cookie monster and original sour diesel. After not growing almost at all I cut some of the leaves off. I am having trouble up loading a photo but I'll figure it out soon. Thanks for the reply


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## roachfinder (May 3, 2016)

nick17gar said:


> Id like to see a pic of this. Purple could be lots of things, phosphorus definciency, or it could be the strain. post a pic and lets see


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## roachfinder (May 3, 2016)

Sorry.....same pic on accident


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## roachfinder (May 3, 2016)

nick17gar said:


> Id like to see a pic of this. Purple could be lots of things, phosphorus definciency, or it could be the strain. post a pic and lets see


Oh hey.....if you go to the top of this page you'll see one of the plants a couple weeks ago. As u can see it has a couple more layers now but overall way too small than it should be.......but that pic is the start of the purple. The one I just posted, I just took. These plants are like 34 days old. I've nvr had it this bad. ):


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## Thomaspace00 (May 4, 2016)

PerfectGrower said:


> Am I wrong or does your meter say your pH is at the low 5 range?


yeah that was the day before now its 4.0 :/ dont rly know what i can do i did nothing wrong some people told that foxFarm nutes makes ph go down i tested ph 1 weeks after flowering it was 6.6 at start/Vegg ph was 7 watter i use KRISTAL Water drinkable water feed nutes twice a week only and 2/3 water any help what im doing wrong or any ides why ph go down so dramatically i only have 23 days to finish im losing them each day  using 600w hps in a cooltube 1.2 tent good air flow in and out 3al pots seeds are sensiseeds big bud


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## thegreenerside (May 9, 2016)

Can someone help! My tips are turning brown and the only solution I can find is nute burn, it's not the whole leaf or anywhere else, just the tips


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## Mrjacob274 (May 10, 2016)

Why are the ladies looking old and wrinkly ?!


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## pinner420 (May 10, 2016)

thegreenerside said:


> Can someone help! My tips are turning brown and the only solution I can find is nute burn, it's not the whole leaf or anywhere else, just the tips


Brewers up some compost tea.


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## pinner420 (May 10, 2016)

Mrjacob274 said:


> Why are the ladies looking old and wrinkly ?!


Take a set off the bottom so it can breath better and brew up some compost tea.


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## Thomaspace00 (May 11, 2016)

thegreenerside said:


> Can someone help! My tips are turning brown and the only solution I can find is nute burn, it's not the whole leaf or anywhere else, just the tips


check ph man i had my ph down was loosing all my plants


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## Softasspoptart (May 16, 2016)

I cant tell if i have a nitrogen or mag deficiency. Can someone please give me there opinion? Its only on my big fan leaves and it hasnt seemed to spread more as ive been keeping in eye on it for the past 3 days. From what i can tell its stopped but not positive as its only been 3 days. My PH was kinda high @ 7.2 flushed it today and its back at 6.7. Temp stays at 79-80°F. Humidity is usually between 50-65%. Its 22 days old. I havent added any nutes yet and using vigoro organic potting soil. Was going to on next watering. Also in the third picture should my leave already begin browning at the tip like that at 22 days old? (white looking stuff is just the light lol) Overall how does my plant look though? First time growing hoping im doing good.


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## Softasspoptart (May 16, 2016)

Mrjacob274 said:


> Why are the ladies looking old and wrinkly ?!


Looks like overwatering. Should only be watering every 4-5 days.


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## jt13 (May 17, 2016)

thankyou for the info....I have 7 acres in the mountains and I grow all kinds of stuff, but this will be my first attempt at marijuana.


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## Firstimegrowerrhelpppp (May 23, 2016)

Check this out https://www.rollitup.org/t/need-help-firt-time-grower.910046/


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## Stickyikie (May 24, 2016)

Yeah man it looks like roots been in soggy soil. when you think it's time to water wait one more day .flip the pot over hold main stem between your fingers inspect roots are they healthy white or are they tan color and not healthy looking?


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## Thomaspace00 (May 26, 2016)

to day they are finished buds smells and looks very good but leaves are all gone . . . .. . putting them to 2 days of darkness


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## EireAran420 (Jun 7, 2016)

Babies doing well 
Can't seem to find the prob
Everything seems to be right 
I'm guessing slugs but there aren't any to be seen and it only happens to the one plant.
What you guys think 
 

Maybe water fell on the leaf magnetized the sunrays and burnt it?


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## SStevens (Jun 7, 2016)

What is wrong with my plant. Please HELP!


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## jt13 (Jun 7, 2016)

SStevens said:


> What is wrong with my plant. Please HELP!


looks like a zinc deficiency. which is generally linked to iron and manganese. find a fertilizer that has a micro mix of the three.


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## jt13 (Jun 7, 2016)

jt13 said:


> looks like a zinc deficiency. which is generally linked to iron and manganese. find a fertilizer that has a micro mix of the three.


I use young fruit tree fertilizer. it has all the micro nutes. and you only have to apply once to the soil.


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## SStevens (Jun 7, 2016)

jt13 said:


> looks like a zinc deficiency. which is generally linked to iron and manganese. find a fertilizer that has a micro mix of the three.


 Do you know if the Advanced Nutrients Cal/Mag will take care of it JT?


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## SStevens (Jun 7, 2016)

SStevens said:


> Do you know if the Advanced Nutrients Cal/Mag will take care of it JT?


----------



## jt13 (Jun 7, 2016)

EireAran420 said:


> Babies doing well
> Can't seem to find the prob
> Everything seems to be right
> I'm guessing slugs but there aren't any to be seen and it only happens to the one plant.
> ...


looks like a chemical or something fell on the leaves and burned those spots. that happened to me while I was spraying the soil for fungus gnats. some of my solution hit some of my girls leaves and killed the tips of them. I ended up cutting the dead ends off and now she is fine. But if its a slug, take a little container and put some beer in it. slugs cant resist beer. they will crawl in and drown.


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## jt13 (Jun 7, 2016)

SStevens said:


> Do you know if the Advanced Nutrients Cal/Mag will take care of it JT?


it should. check to see if it has iron, manganese and zinc as a micro nute. I use Garden Solutions Natural fruit tree food.


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## jt13 (Jun 7, 2016)

jt13 said:


> it should. check to see if it has iron, manganese and zinc as a micro nute. I use Garden Solutions Natural fruit tree food.


I think that Advance Nutruients has the right stuff after looking at your chart


----------



## Dmm (Jun 12, 2016)

Hey guys. I'm using the flora series and am on week 3 of 12/12. I just watered today and realized after that I haven't been giving my plants enough. Its safe to say I've been giving 1/4 of what I should
Plants are looking great but just wondering thoughts from others..should I jump right to the correct amount next time?. I water once a week with feed.. should I not be so worried?
Any help would be appreciated


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## rocko369 (Jun 13, 2016)

Need a little help! Getting brown spots on my leaves. growing in pro-mix and using roots organic go box for organic fertilizer. ran outta cal-mag but using cal-mag plus botonicare as a replacement for now till I get a chance to get more cal-mag. plus I'm adding terpernater for taste and rock resonator for tichs! I have 3kk chem fire under a 600 watt bare hood 5 gallon buckets those are the ones getting brown rusty spots on the leaves on the other side of my tent I have another 600 watt with 2 bubble bombs and 2 unknown strains bag seeds and they are doing great no brown rust spots! I'm stump here! need help fast. Lol any suggestions can't find any bugs looked real good with jewelry loupe 30x. On week 3-4 of flower 12/12


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## chuckie86 (Jun 20, 2016)

Mine have brow spots also bro and everyone said it needs calmag and I used pro mix and when I used foxfar soil I never had as many problems my outside plants look better And I don't do anything to them


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## EireAran420 (Jun 20, 2016)

does anybody know what this could be? 
Can't figure it out.
Checked on her yesterday and forgot to take pictures it's getting worse and its working its way to tge lower leaves


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## EireAran420 (Jun 20, 2016)




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## rocko369 (Jun 20, 2016)

chuckie86 said:


> Mine have brow spots also bro and everyone said it needs calmag and I used pro mix and when I used foxfar soil I never had as many problems my outside plants look better And I don't do anything to them


 I had a ph lockout my runoff was 5 in soil. Flushing


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## jt13 (Jun 20, 2016)

EireAran420 said:


> View attachment 3712725 does anybody know what this could be?
> Can't figure it out.
> Checked on her yesterday and forgot to take pictures it's getting worse and its working its way to tge lower leaves


Maybe an iron deficiency and definitely check your PH


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## chuckie86 (Jun 20, 2016)

Maybe it needs nitrogen


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## jt13 (Jun 20, 2016)

doesn't nitrogen deficiencies start to yellow the leaves on the bottom first then work their way up? iron deficiency starts with yellowing of new growth then works its way down. Normally caused by off PH


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## chuckie86 (Jun 20, 2016)

I thought lighter leaves meant that needs nitrogen but I'm not 100% check before you do anything to ur plants


----------



## EireAran420 (Jun 21, 2016)

Thanks for the info.
It help alot , what would be the best way of getting iron to my plant?
Would I find bottled nutes high in iron? 
What will I use?
And can I find it in a horticulture or grow shop?
Also what would be the healthiest way of getting nitrogen to my girls?

(All my plants are being grow outdoors)


----------



## jt13 (Jun 21, 2016)

compost for nitrogen. any grass, broken and dead branches. Anything that used to be green or brown, can be used. get a box like a Rubbermaid container and drill holes in it. the sides and the bottom. then put all of your grass clippings, dead or dying foliage. It takes a while for compost to be ready. around 3 months oh and you got to keep it wet and take a rake and stir it up at least every three days or so. But in your case, you don't have that time to wait, so go to your nearest nusery or Walmart. they have it. bags of compost. or compost tea, it works faster. Its just water ran through compost and collected. spray on foliage and in soil. your plants will thank you for it.
Iron is one of those micro nutes that is usually found in soil. First thing to do is check the PH of your soil. If that is over 8 or under 6 then that could block your plant from obtaining iron out of the soil. if your soil is lacking iron you can simply stick a nail in the soil. as the moisture reacts with the iron in the nail, it will form iron oxide which your plant can use. one nail. don't go dumping a box of them down . you will turn your soil toxic. there are plant foods that have iron in them. tomato plant food has iron and evryother nute that your girls need. But first I would recommend checking the PH first


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## backtracker (Jun 21, 2016)

EireAran420 said:


> View attachment 3712729


Has it been real cloudy? if it has then the light green is from not getting sun and will get darker when it gets sun so don't do anything until they get some sun.


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## jt13 (Jun 21, 2016)

uv light and infrared penetrates cloud cover, but its worth a shot.make sure that its not spreading


----------



## backtracker (Jun 21, 2016)

jt13 said:


> uv light and infrared penetrates cloud cover, but its worth a shot.make sure that its not spreading


I just had it happen we had two days of no sun and rain the new growth was lime green then the sun came out now everything is fine.


----------



## backtracker (Jun 21, 2016)

EireAran420 said:


> Thanks for the info.
> It help alot , what would be the best way of getting iron to my plant?
> Would I find bottled nutes high in iron?
> What will I use?
> ...


too much iron is a bad thing make sure that is your problem before you start adding things. a fertilizer like earth juice grow and bloom is simple and complete you don't need to add anything to it the powder is fairly cheap and you can top dress it and just water. keep it simple.


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## coreywebster (Jun 21, 2016)

Looks like plenty of nitrogen to me, it would first steal nitrogen from the lowest leaves until they were totally yellow to feed the upper leaves. The best way to stop an iron def if that what it is is to correct the ph, around the lower end of soil ph range, 6-6.2

Edit, unless you are watering with RO water which is void of iron

Double edit. Cal Mag also contains Iron as well as calcium and magnesium, the 3 work hand in hand with each other. I probably would be checking its not a PH issue first but if you do happen to be using RO water then you should be adding something like CalMag anyway (assuming your not in organic soil)


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## EireAran420 (Jun 22, 2016)

Backtracker 
There where a few days of light rain and was very cloudy and a bit windy.
It was the first time they have experienced conditions like that.

I check the ph of the soil and it seems to be ok at a steady 7.0.

I had a few bags of compost and filled one with water and left it sit over night. Then poked holes at the bottom and drained the water ina bucket ph'd it to 5.5
Then spread it around the soil. Hopfully it will lower the pH a bit and give the soil some extra organic nutes .

This is the same Leaf I took this pic 
Dismorning before I spread the ph'd
Water. It's seemed to be curling up now mabye from the wind?


----------



## EireAran420 (Jun 22, 2016)

This is the leaf on the other side It looks like its getting better.
But the bottom leaves are starting to do the same.
I'll upload a pic in a few days to see if the ph'd water made a difference.


----------



## EireAran420 (Jun 22, 2016)

Water I use is just rain water ph'd to 6.0
No lower leaves are yellow at all all green.

This is a potted plant
I noticed the lower leaves have turned a dark green with purple around the edges.
Cold temps?


----------



## EireAran420 (Jun 22, 2016)




----------



## Cyah1990 (Jun 22, 2016)

Help wit this plz and thank you, I have a 5gallon Dwc, trying the Lucas formula


----------



## Cyah1990 (Jun 23, 2016)

EireAran420 said:


> View attachment 3714127


I've always heard that dark green leaves is too much nitrogen


----------



## EireAran420 (Jun 23, 2016)

Cyah1990 said:


> Help wit this plz and thank you, I have a 5gallon Dwc, trying the Lucas formula
> 
> Maybe a copper deficiency
> 
> http://www.growweedeasy.com/copper-deficiency-cannabis


----------



## Bulldog0420 (Jun 28, 2016)

Hi guys hope you're all well,
I'm having some issues especially with my early skunk, New growth is quite yellow and frail (almost like it's shriveled up). It happened to my skunk#1 as well but the problem seems to have been fixed on that one. Any help on why this is happening would be appreciated and on how to fix it. Also the rest of the upper leaves are still looking beautiful and healthy and are starting to let off a beautiful smell. Trying to upload a photo but for some reason it's not letting me.


----------



## backtracker (Jun 28, 2016)

Bulldog0420 said:


> Hi guys hope you're all well,
> I'm having some issues especially with my early skunk, New growth is quite yellow and frail (almost like it's shriveled up). It happened to my skunk#1 as well but the problem seems to have been fixed on that one. Any help on why this is happening would be appreciated and on how to fix it. Also the rest of the upper leaves are still looking beautiful and healthy and are starting to let off a beautiful smell. Trying to upload a photo but for some reason it's not letting me.


Hey check this place out there's a load of good info. http://www.growweedeasy.com/marijuana-symptoms


----------



## Bulldog0420 (Jun 28, 2016)

backtracker said:


> Hey check this place out there's a load of good info. http://www.growweedeasy.com/marijuana-symptoms


Cheers bro have already tried there but still can't pinpoint the exact problem


----------



## backtracker (Jun 28, 2016)

Bulldog0420 said:


> Cheers bro have already tried there but still can't pinpoint the exact problem


try this one http://www.thenug.com/galleries/diagnose-your-sick-marijuana-plants


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## farmerfischer (Jul 1, 2016)

Good informative post. Thank you


----------



## EireAran420 (Aug 4, 2016)

Need help

How can I fix this


----------



## EireAran420 (Aug 4, 2016)

SHe stop growing from the top for about two weeks. So I checked her out and found this. 
Is this stem rot?
I found a few spots starting on the newer growth


----------



## Grenier5413 (Aug 5, 2016)

I've got a blimburn purple grizzly Kush. She is outdoors has been since late may. pH. Is good but levels test good. Just starting to flip to flower. I'm noticing pencil diameter spots starting here and there on bottom of plant. Almost looks like a bleach stain. Wasn't to concerned but now I notice it's moving up the plant to other leaves. All old growth.


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## Olive Drab Green (Aug 5, 2016)

Grenier5413 said:


> I've got a blimburn purple grizzly Kush. She is outdoors has been since late may. pH. Is good but levels test good. Just starting to flip to flower. I'm noticing pencil diameter spots starting here and there on bottom of plant. Almost looks like a bleach stain. Wasn't to concerned but now I notice it's moving up the plant to other leaves. All old growth.View attachment 3750116


You got a few bawwwwgz.


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## Olive Drab Green (Aug 5, 2016)

EireAran420 said:


> View attachment 3749135SHe stop growing from the top for about two weeks. So I checked her out and found this.
> Is this stem rot?
> I found a few spots starting on the newer growthView attachment 3749136


Should probably start over. Pretty sure something's tunneling through your plants if it isn't bacterial/fungal.


----------



## Grenier5413 (Aug 5, 2016)

Olive Drab Green said:


> You got a few bawwwwgz.


You think it's bugs. I have ten plants I'm the same area and none of them have this.


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## Olive Drab Green (Aug 5, 2016)

Grenier5413 said:


> You think it's bugs. I have ten plants I'm the same area and none of them have this.


I'm telling you those spots are bug bites.


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## Grenier5413 (Aug 5, 2016)

I know there is slug damage but that was from a month ago. If you are seeing the bite marks also.


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## Olive Drab Green (Aug 5, 2016)

You're growing outside, of course you're going to get bugs.


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## Grenier5413 (Aug 5, 2016)

I will try some spray and see what happens thanks.


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## Olive Drab Green (Aug 5, 2016)

If you have any neem oil and a watering can, mix a teaspoon with a can of water and water in. Spray if you have a spray bottle.


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## Grenier5413 (Aug 5, 2016)

Yeah obviously it's just all the years I've grown this is the first time I've seen that. It's normally slugs or dear in my area. Some times mites.


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## Olive Drab Green (Aug 5, 2016)

I do see that some of the "bleach looking spots" are faded and not really leaving a scab. That could be PH, overwatering, slight underfeeding, or there could be bug bites on the underside. Still, the neem would be wise if you're growing outside to begin with.


----------



## Grenier5413 (Aug 5, 2016)

I don't have any. Was going to try to make some citrus spray from my indoor lemon tree. At least try that first.


----------



## Olive Drab Green (Aug 5, 2016)

Grenier5413 said:


> I don't have any. Was going to try to make some citrus spray from my indoor lemon tree. At least try that first.


Might work, if you know how to do it properly. Neem, though, will improve your plant's health and resistance. It works as a systemic.


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## Grenier5413 (Aug 5, 2016)

My pH is hitting damn close to seven. They get guano tea every other week. Plus I used guano pellets and dolomite lime when I transplanted. I didn't really do shit with my.soil this year so I've had alot of different problems. My other plants are two weeks into flower and I just can't seem to get the nitro into them fast enough. It's been a battle this year. Thanks for the advice.


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## Grenier5413 (Aug 5, 2016)

Olive Drab Green said:


> Might work, if you know how to do it properly. Neem, though, will improve your plant's health and resistance. It works as a systemic.


Yeah I've used it before it works great. Live in Vermont so there aren't to many citrus loving bugs around. I'll look into that neem oil though I didn't know it had other benefits. Is it all organic


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## Olive Drab Green (Aug 5, 2016)

Grenier5413 said:


> Yeah I've used it before it works great. Live in Vermont so there aren't to many citrus loving bugs around. I'll look into that neem oil though I didn't know it had other benefits. Is it all organic


Completely organic, comes from neem plant. Has micronutrients, is antifungal (although pretty sure it doesn't fuck with myco or bennies), insecticidal, and it helps with a few other things.


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## Olive Drab Green (Aug 5, 2016)

Smells kind of like old Chinese food, though.


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## squirt1961 (Aug 5, 2016)

Its relatively cheap too


----------



## Grenier5413 (Aug 5, 2016)

Thanks maybe I'll just go grab some. I am doing foliar feeding now to correct the nitro problem on other plants. Is it something I'll have to reapply or affect the leaves from taking in nuets.


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## squirt1961 (Aug 5, 2016)

I use every 2 weeks outdoor plants and it doesnt seem to effect anything else but bugs.
Ive never needed it indoors yet.


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## EireAran420 (Aug 6, 2016)

When feeding my plants I spilled my nutes drops all-over my leaves. Kinda looked like the spots on your plant


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## Olive Drab Green (Aug 6, 2016)

Cyah1990 said:


> Help wit this plz and thank you, I have a 5gallon Dwc, trying the Lucas formula
> View attachment 3714690


This is either mag def or your pH is fucked. Also, heat and chlorosis. I think the chlorosis is from either underfeeding or pH causing lockout.


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## EireAran420 (Aug 6, 2016)

Olive Drab Green said:


> Should probably start over. Pretty sure something's tunneling through your plants if it isn't bacterial/fungal.


Is there anything I can do? Was thing just cut of the top. But the infection prob started from bottom 2 top.
She was my most promising plant she's was almost 3m tall untill she stop growing 2weeks ago.
So I should just cop her and move on?


----------



## Grenier5413 (Aug 6, 2016)

Here is another picture of the progression. I'm not thinking bugs but I'm still not sure. All the problems I've had this year I bet it's some def.


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## Grenier5413 (Aug 6, 2016)

Now that I think maybe it's a burn. This particular plant plot did test higher for nutrients.


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## slownickel (Aug 14, 2016)

It is breakdown, you have the same issue at the roots. What you see above is happening below. Note the fern. Ferns hate calcium. You need calcium to make the roots strong and to multiply. They probably are just breaking into the nasty subsoil below and waterlogged. There is an oak leaf there, this is an acidic soil. Low calcium will let aluminum come in, advanced senility (Alzheimers for plants).

Got milk? Calcium carbonate? Gypsum? NEVER DOLOMITE.


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## slownickel (Aug 14, 2016)

You have soil analysis?


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## slownickel (Aug 14, 2016)

EireAran420 said:


> Need help
> 
> How can I fix this


Erian,

The leaf symptom is called shot hole, read page 735. Something is tweaked. Do you have a soil analysis?


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## slownickel (Aug 14, 2016)

EireAran420 said:


> View attachment 3712729


Calcium problem, plants are growing too fast and can't pick up calcium fast enough. How is your boron level in the soil? Do you have a soil analysis? Are you using nitrates? There is a visual zinc deficiency, I see lots of grass, that means high K and little Ca, some serious taco going on, twisting leaves on new growth, classic calcium deficiency, usually induced for pushing K or being in washed out soils, that have nothing to begin with.


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## slownickel (Aug 14, 2016)

rocko369 said:


> View attachment 3706964 Need a little help! Getting brown spots on my leaves. growing in pro-mix and using roots organic go box for organic fertilizer. ran outta cal-mag but using cal-mag plus botonicare as a replacement for now till I get a chance to get more cal-mag. plus I'm adding terpernater for taste and rock resonator for tichs! I have 3kk chem fire under a 600 watt bare hood 5 gallon buckets those are the ones getting brown rusty spots on the leaves on the other side of my tent I have another 600 watt with 2 bubble bombs and 2 unknown strains bag seeds and they are doing great no brown rust spots! I'm stump here! need help fast. Lol any suggestions can't find any bugs looked real good with jewelry loupe 30x. On week 3-4 of flower 12/12


Roco,

Read that post above by sister Mary and shot hole on page 735. Lay off the Mg, that is the problem, too much most likely and low Ca. Add gypsum and fine lime and milk.


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## slownickel (Aug 14, 2016)

Soil analysis would be easier, but I would imagine that you have too much K against P, due to low Ca and high Mg, probably overwatering and most definitely Mn and Zn problems, might be B too. Any conductivity numbers from the runout?


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## EireAran420 (Aug 15, 2016)

slownickel said:


> Calcium problem, plants are growing too fast and can't pick up calcium fast enough. How is your boron level in the soil? Do you have a soil analysis? Are you using nitrates? There is a visual zinc deficiency, I see lots of grass, that means high K and little Ca, some serious taco going on, twisting leaves on new growth, classic calcium deficiency, usually induced for pushing K or being in washed out soils, that have nothing to begin with.


Thanks for the help.
Iv been feeding them with babie bio for a while . I ran out so I was feeding them with just compost tea up untill 2weeks ago since then iv fed them milk mixed with water ph'd to 5.5 200ml to 1ltr of water.
I'm heading into my local grow store tomorrow . I will pick up a soil analyser .
Also what nutes showed I pick up while I'm there?.
Can you please send me another link 
I can't seem to open the one you have posted.
Iv been doing much research on the shot hole thing and can't seem to find anything.
Thanks for the help it's much needed


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## irish grower (Aug 16, 2016)

EireAran420 said:


> Thanks for the help.
> Iv been feeding them with babie bio for a while . I ran out so I was feeding them with just compost tea up untill 2weeks ago since then iv fed them milk mixed with water ph'd to 5.5 200ml to 1ltr of water.
> I'm heading into my local grow store tomorrow . I will pick up a soil analyser .
> Also what nutes showed I pick up while I'm there?.
> ...


how ye lad check out my pipes in soil to let air into roots in soil,its a thread on here some where,works great and it take a lot of toxicity out throughout the pipes aswell, mite help ye out,pipes let air straight into me soil lets the soil breath aswell,all ye can do is try boh'y lol,ye watching that red rock by any chance


----------



## irish grower (Aug 16, 2016)

il show ye lad,


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## irish grower (Aug 16, 2016)

what kind of nuits are you after lad,il tel ye exactly what i use,better yet il show ye


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## irish grower (Aug 16, 2016)

all ye need mate i mix the last 3 bloom all together and they bring the ph down to 6.3,only once a week i give nuits,the rest is just of the week is just water,plain water


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## slownickel (Aug 16, 2016)

Wow, some serious woo woo juice there, LMAO. Surely it is easier than what I would propose.....


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## slownickel (Aug 16, 2016)

And Lee, if you have to put tubes in your soil, your Mg is off the chart or you are farming in clay.


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## irish grower (Aug 16, 2016)

na i dont have too, just an experiment is all mate,its just to see what would happen with the extra air flow inside the soil,ye know whT i mean,it works good from whT i can see,il be doing it agian,if ye never try ye never know,thanks for the feed back tho mate


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## slownickel (Aug 16, 2016)

Roots need more air than leaves do. So you are on the right path. Often one can use perlite or some other material to open up the soil even more. Chemically though, in a soil, we have to get the relationship of Ca to Mg high to open up a soil. These guys will explain it a lot better than I. Basically you want around 80% Calcium or even a bit more, to get top quality and top yields of your chosen crop.


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## trapmarley420 (Aug 16, 2016)

Any ideas anyone? Newb here. It's a rdwc ph always between 5.8 and 6.4 I use technaflora recipe for success while suplementing Cal mag hydroguard for root rot using led lights. For some reason all the pineapple express in my system are messing up but candy kush is thriving I don't get it. Any help appreciated


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## irish grower (Aug 17, 2016)

how old are they,that 5.8 ph seen low to me lad,lowest i go is 6.5, all ours get water ph7 neutral water,only drops for nuit feeding.trial and error mate just try raise it and see what happends


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## trapmarley420 (Aug 17, 2016)

They are nearing 65 days from seed. I messed up in the beginning and let them stay in preveg too long. So it stressed them and when I dropped em in the system they all came back except for the pineapple express . Bottom pic is candy kush and it's thriving. I've read in hydro systems to keep it between 5.5 and 6.5 but some say 6.1 others 5.8 to vest absorb nutes idk total newb lol.....


----------



## irish grower (Aug 17, 2016)

ha i have pineapple chunk on the go,she like a neutral water,i did drop the ph at the start but she went yellow,so i just let her have water,she quickly went green agian and my nuits with the cal/mag drop my ph to 6.3 i let her soak that for two days and watet then for the rest of the week,i have red that pineapple strains are nuit sensitive,loved a flushing out boomed out after it she did so i lollypoped her after for some major bud sites


----------



## trapmarley420 (Aug 17, 2016)

Yea I noticed pineapple is nutes sensitive the leaves turn yellow so quickly and it being an auto flower it's so unforgiving. The candy kush is fine though so I hate to admit but I've bden focusing on those plants more than pineapple. I orb won't even yield more than a half oz off each pineapple when it's all said and done. I might have to do a quick flush. Problem is after 2 months a circuit blew and all power in room is out. I have been having to bring power from other rpoms with extensions so yea all types of shit for this newb first go ugh


----------



## EireAran420 (Aug 21, 2016)

leesophie Irish said:


> how ye lad check out my pipes in soil to let air into roots in soil,its a thread on here some where,works great and it take a lot of toxicity out throughout the pipes aswell, mite help ye out,pipes let air straight into me soil lets the soil breath aswell,all ye can do is try boh'y lol,ye watching that red rock by any chance


What are these pipes? Do they feed water or just air? I'll take look at the tread now.
Are they just small open pipes or are they connected to something that pumps the air though? 
Also nutes I am using now 
Sea weed extract biobloom and bio topmax.


----------



## irish grower (Aug 21, 2016)

EireAran420 said:


> What are these pipes? Do they feed water or just air? I'll take look at the tread now.
> Are they just small open pipes or are they connected to something that pumps the air though?
> Also nutes I am using now
> Sea weed extract biobloom and bio topmax.


how ye boh'y,ye the pipes are just to let air in the soil so it can breath,works good so far,there only 4ml holes i could run anything through them i suppose but there just for air,il try everything with them plants lad nothing ventured an all that owl shit,are you watching red rock by any chance mate


----------



## EireAran420 (Aug 21, 2016)

Sounds interesting I guess itsworth a try . I'll find me some short 4mm pipe .
Nope never heard of red rock before.
I'll give it a try would find red rock on Netflix or maybe YouTube? 
Still waiting for narcos session 2 where getting close


----------



## irish grower (Aug 21, 2016)

ye lad give it a go,ye that red rock its about the garda in Dublin,im from waterford meself,if i had of been growing in ireland i would of made a killing,smoking shitty hash for years,who knew growing it was so easy,well kinda easy,still like babys.i have some blue cheese and special queen#1 sprouting now,i like that cheese ye know lad,hows your grow coming on


----------



## Grenier5413 (Aug 24, 2016)

Sorry guys my phone broke. Just got back. The only tester I have is for pH and basic neuts. Considering I did nothing to the soil practically I'm sure your right.


----------



## Kidbruv (Aug 25, 2016)

So my friend is growing a plant with identical genetics to mine (clones) in almost identical conditions outdoors. He sent me a pic today to compare how far into flowering we both are and I noticed that his leaves were very "veiny". Overall his plant is very healthy with just the occasional lower yellow leaf. 

I don't know if this is anything other than young leaves (because the older ones around it don't seem to have that same veininess) or just pics taken in different lighting, but figured it was worth asking. Possible early magnesium deficiency? 

First pic is his plant, second mine...


----------



## chuckie86 (Aug 30, 2016)

Does this look like a phosphorus deff I look it up and looks like it to me but I'm not %100 sure


----------



## dickiefickle (Sep 2, 2016)

nick17gar said:


> So 99% of the times I come in here to see what people are up to and check what forum threads I can throw some advice in, its plant issues.
> 
> "theres yellowing" or "leaf is dry and brittle" or "OMG SPOTS!"
> 
> ...


This could be useful with some pictures


----------



## Jerro (Sep 5, 2016)

Hello everyone,

2x 1000 watt SolarMax/VEG - Metal Halid- Air cooled 4 feet Away running @ 75%

Temps are have been @ 68-76 most grow
except for a few heat waves but never over 85 Degress for Longer then 4 hours.
Humidity has been 50-60 except a few days they dropped to 25 I added a humidifier and have kept it at 50-60% 
Running light 24/7
Rapid rooters starting plug. 

Air circulation is good fan blowing over the top and two others moving air back to the carbon scrubber. 

DWC - 55 Gallon 6 pot system- cultured soultions under current @ 67 Degress
R/O water - system is currently at 6 PH -Stable
40 Gallon Reseivor - 5.7 PH currently - 67 Degress
40 days since planted seeds

I have co2 setup also and ran it for a few days, my room isn't completely sealed and it is escaping so I will seal everything up and start to run that this week. The growth difference is huge it was amazing anyways let me get to the rest.. 

Nutes: cultured soultions veg a, veg- b @ at half of recommended strength, UC roots, cal-Mag half strength, when I topped the first time the stem I cut was hollow. The system is at 210ppm and the Rez is at 420ppm (EC500 Scale)


I was having N toxicity so I drained everything out and cleaned everything throughly with hydrogen peroxide. I had ph fluctuations (faulty Ph meter) in the beginning and the first water change I did I didn't have a transfer pump so alittle build up was left behind which most probably caused N toxicity. I have topped five of them twice and one three times. 

Everything seems to be normal now, but I want to make sure her growth is normal as this is my first grow and havnt seen any other plants grow. Also my rapid rooters has green alge growing on top.. How do I treat this?? Do I spray hydroton peroxide and then cover it up so no light gets shined on it? Thank you all for your help!!


----------



## Dontknow77 (Sep 26, 2016)

Man thanks a lot I just found out what's been killing the leafs of my girls


----------



## drfish93 (Sep 29, 2016)

Can anyone tel me what the problem with this is???


----------



## Tigerpaws (Oct 3, 2016)

Any idea what could be ailing her?


----------



## EireAran420 (Oct 5, 2016)

slownickel said:


> Roco,
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## BecauseIgotHigh (Oct 8, 2016)

Tigerpaws said:


> Any idea what could be ailing her?


plant looks calmag nitrogen tox, keep your ph perfect and see what happens then. Plant looks good from that though?



drfish93 said:


> Can anyone tel me what the problem with this is???


magnesium


----------



## Tigerpaws (Oct 8, 2016)

BecauseIgotHigh said:


> plant looks calmag nitrogen tox, keep your ph perfect and see what happens then. Plant looks good from that though?
> 
> 
> magnesium


That's probably it. I was using Calmag with my tap water.


----------



## ray2013 (Oct 22, 2016)

Greetings farmer's. Was wondering if anyone could help identify this issue with my plants.


----------



## HydoDan (Oct 31, 2016)

Possible phosphorus deficiency...
http://www.growweedeasy.com/phosphorus-deficiency-cannabis


----------



## Roger A. Shrubber (Oct 31, 2016)

sort of looks like early root rot


----------



## Mrjacob274 (Nov 1, 2016)

I have this tangerine dream she is 15 days old and having a spotting problem. Planted in Fox Farm Ocean Forest. Room 76* 37%


----------



## Roger A. Shrubber (Nov 1, 2016)

at first glance i would say something is eating it. looks like leafminer damage, which is actually the small larvae of several different pests that haven't emerged yet. spraying isn't very effective, as they're inside the plant. do you have any insects like small flies around your grow room? using yellow sticky traps helps, and i've found that watering with a half strength dose of spinosad if they get bad helps knock them down a lot. they aren't the same as fungus gnats, but if fungus gnats like the conditions, so will they.


----------



## HydoDan (Nov 1, 2016)

Roger A. Shrubber said:


> at first glance i would say something is eating it. looks like leafminer damage, which is actually the small larvae of several different pests that haven't emerged yet. spraying isn't very effective, as they're inside the plant. do you have any insects like small flies around your grow room? using yellow sticky traps helps, and i've found that watering with a half strength dose of spinosad if they get bad helps knock them down a lot. they aren't the same as fungus gnats, but if fungus gnats like the conditions, so will they.


I was just reading about leaf miners last night and now here they are.... good call


----------



## Mrjacob274 (Nov 2, 2016)

Theyre not moving along or tunneling. New growth and my two other plants have not a blemish.


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Nov 2, 2016)

there are at least 4 different insects that can be called "leafminer" in that stage, some travel around, some just sit and eat one spot. they don't have spots anywhere else because the larvae are close to where you see the damage. the best thing to do if its just one or two leaves is cut them off and dispose of them.


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## FrostFlame (Nov 24, 2016)

Possibly Fe deficiency? Or what else?


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Nov 24, 2016)

just looks hungry, what ya feedin em now?


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## FrostFlame (Nov 24, 2016)

Roger A. Shrubber said:


> just looks hungry, what ya feedin em now?


I just fed them with BioCanna products: BioVega 3ml/l (N 3.5%, P 1%, K 5.5%), BioRhyzotonic 0.5 ml/l (N 0.6%, P 0.2%, K 0.6%) BioBoost 3.5 ml/l. I have just switched 12/12


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## Castel (Dec 1, 2016)

So I'm on my first grow in almost 20 years and am having some issues with my two mothers. I would like some advice on what needs to be done to improve the health of my plants? They are two 30 day old Great White Sharks grown from feminized seeds.

Growing indoors with temps between 25 and 28 degrees C. Humidity 50%. Oscillating fan moving air.

Medium is Coco/Perlite in a pot slightly less than 1 gallon. Good drainage.

Once every 24 hours I'm feeding Maxibloom (Lucas formula) at about 50% strength using tap water which is at 170 ppm (total 700ppm / 1.4ec) with 15-20% run off. I tried using full strength nutes about 10 days ago and noticed nute burn the following day so flushed immediately with 50% strength nutes and have been staying at that. Feeding at ph 5.5. Run off is ph 6.1. 

Lights are 4x CXB3590 3500K on a 1400ma driver about 18" above the plants. I was running the driver at about 90%, but felt the leaf discoloration could be caused by light toxicity so have dimmed lights to about 60%.

The edges of the leaves are fading to a very light green and am worried it will just continue to get worse.

In one of the photos you can see some of the lower leaves have turned yellow/brown and covered in brown spots. I'm attributing some of that to the day I burned them with nutes.

I'm thinking the cause is either there was too much light, or else possibly a Calmag issue. Apparently since I'm using tap water at 170ppm, calmag should not be required though.

Any suggestions?


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## Mrjacob274 (Dec 2, 2016)

Possibly to much water.



Castel said:


> So I'm on my first grow in almost 20 years and am having some issues with my two mothers. I would like some advice on what needs to be done to improve the health of my plants? They are two 30 day old Great White Sharks grown from feminized seeds.
> 
> Growing indoors with temps between 25 and 28 degrees C. Humidity 50%. Oscillating fan moving air.
> 
> ...


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## Castel (Dec 2, 2016)

Mrjacob274 said:


> Possibly to much water.


Thanks. The coco/perlite has excellent drainage so I thought it's not really possible to over water.

I'm starting to think it's a magnesium deficiency so I've ordered some epsom salt and will try adding 1 gram per gallon to my nutrient solution.


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## Nick Nugget (Dec 3, 2016)

Hey there y'all! I'm doing my first indoor grow under a 400 watt HPS/MH switchable HID in miracle grow (trust me I know what a mistake this was after I did it) in a semi-large closet. I'm having some yellowing on the lower leaves of my diesel auto fem and I'm not sure what it is as it could be a host of issues. Firstly, I started off using miracle grow potting mix which leaches nutrients and leaves me with little ability to control nutrient levels. I thought at first that it might be nitro toxicity as some of the leaves had a claw like appearance. Now it seems more like nitro deficiency as the lower leaves are starting to yellow, which matches what I've been reading. I have a hygrometer/ thermometer in the mail as well as a digital PH tester. This way I'll be able to better determine if it has anything to do with the environment or nutrient lock due to PH issues. So it could be a couple things in my novice opinion. 1. I used too small of a pot and the plant is rootbound. 2. It has a nitrogen deficiency. 3. The PH of my water is off and is locking out nutrients. I have another plant of the same strain that has been getting the exact same treatment and conditions except it's in a slightly bigger pot. Incidentally it looks totally fine. Can anyone try to eyeball this thing for me and give me their two cents?


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## Bills dead (Dec 4, 2016)

Castel said:


> So I'm on my first grow in almost 20 years and am having some issues with my two mothers. I would like some advice on what needs to be done to improve the health of my plants? They are two 30 day old Great White Sharks grown from feminized seeds.
> 
> Growing indoors with temps between 25 and 28 degrees C. Humidity 50%. Oscillating fan moving air.
> 
> ...


Coco handles calcium and magnesium differently than other mediums. From what I've read it is still needed. Your 1 gallon pots may be ready for twice a day feedings


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## Bills dead (Dec 4, 2016)

Nick Nugget said:


> Hey there y'all! I'm doing my first indoor grow under a 400 watt HPS/MH switchable HID in miracle grow (trust me I know what a mistake this was after I did it) in a semi-large closet. I'm having some yellowing on the lower leaves of my diesel auto fem and I'm not sure what it is as it could be a host of issues. Firstly, I started off using miracle grow potting mix which leaches nutrients and leaves me with little ability to control nutrient levels. I thought at first that it might be nitro toxicity as some of the leaves had a claw like appearance. Now it seems more like nitro deficiency as the lower leaves are starting to yellow, which matches what I've been reading. I have a hygrometer/ thermometer in the mail as well as a digital PH tester. This way I'll be able to better determine if it has anything to do with the environment or nutrient lock due to PH issues. So it could be a couple things in my novice opinion. 1. I used too small of a pot and the plant is rootbound. 2. It has a nitrogen deficiency. 3. The PH of my water is off and is locking out nutrients. I have another plant of the same strain that has been getting the exact same treatment and conditions except it's in a slightly bigger pot. Incidentally it looks totally fine. Can anyone try to eyeball this thing for me and give me their two cents?


Again this looks like magnesium def. Yellow leaves green veins. Starts on the outside of the leaf and works in. Also starts at the bottom of the plant and goes up. Could very well be related to your unknown PH


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Dec 4, 2016)

Nick Nugget said:


> Hey there y'all! I'm doing my first indoor grow under a 400 watt HPS/MH switchable HID in miracle grow (trust me I know what a mistake this was after I did it) in a semi-large closet. I'm having some yellowing on the lower leaves of my diesel auto fem and I'm not sure what it is as it could be a host of issues. Firstly, I started off using miracle grow potting mix which leaches nutrients and leaves me with little ability to control nutrient levels. I thought at first that it might be nitro toxicity as some of the leaves had a claw like appearance. Now it seems more like nitro deficiency as the lower leaves are starting to yellow, which matches what I've been reading. I have a hygrometer/ thermometer in the mail as well as a digital PH tester. This way I'll be able to better determine if it has anything to do with the environment or nutrient lock due to PH issues. So it could be a couple things in my novice opinion. 1. I used too small of a pot and the plant is rootbound. 2. It has a nitrogen deficiency. 3. The PH of my water is off and is locking out nutrients. I have another plant of the same strain that has been getting the exact same treatment and conditions except it's in a slightly bigger pot. Incidentally it looks totally fine. Can anyone try to eyeball this thing for me and give me their two cents?


 I'm thinking a little over watering, which may be causing N uptake problems. I thought that was the claw at first, but I think the leaf curl is too much water. That may or may not be the reason for the N problems, but I'd let it dry out a little and see if that helps. There may be pH issues as well, but to start with, dry it out a little


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## Nick Nugget (Dec 4, 2016)

Bill thanks for your response. I was finally got my pH meter in the mail and the water is super basic, somewhere around 8.5-9! I adjusted the pH of the water I gave them this morning and the plants already seems to be more upright and responsive. I have the Go Box from general organics in the mail as well so that should help any glaring deficiencies as the plant continues to flower. One thing I learned is to make sure I have everything I need before I germinate that way I don't have to sit here waiting for crucial components to arrive in the mail. I'll see if I can't add magnesium the next time I water her. I'll let you know how it turns out in about a week or less.


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## xoner420 (Dec 4, 2016)

What does my issue look like to you guys need help plz will post more pics also


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## xoner420 (Dec 4, 2016)

And from very es experience what week do u think she is n because the growth is horribly slow for real like she has been in flower for 2 months at least and still very small buds not as frosty as I had hoped either but she seems to be fattening up a little but very slowly my temp and rh are within parameters and only water when needed but am kinda flushing now because of what looked like nitrogen toxicity so...help and constructive criticism is much appreciated r


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## TrippyConcious (Dec 13, 2016)

Great post, this is very useful. Thanks!


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## NaturalFarmer (Dec 17, 2016)

OGKKush said:


> View attachment 3855910


Absolutely gorgeous! One of the nicest I have ever seen.


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## Corso312 (Dec 17, 2016)

Nice plot, why post it in this thread? Start a new thread, looks promising.


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## Bowtieguy77 (Dec 30, 2016)

Nick Nugget said:


> Hey there y'all! I'm doing my first indoor grow under a 400 watt HPS/MH switchable HID in miracle grow (trust me I know what a mistake this was after I did it) in a semi-large closet. I'm having some yellowing on the lower leaves of my diesel auto fem and I'm not sure what it is as it could be a host of issues. Firstly, I started off using miracle grow potting mix which leaches nutrients and leaves me with little ability to control nutrient levels. I thought at first that it might be nitro toxicity as some of the leaves had a claw like appearance. Now it seems more like nitro deficiency as the lower leaves are starting to yellow, which matches what I've been reading. I have a hygrometer/ thermometer in the mail as well as a digital PH tester. This way I'll be able to better determine if it has anything to do with the environment or nutrient lock due to PH issues. So it could be a couple things in my novice opinion. 1. I used too small of a pot and the plant is rootbound. 2. It has a nitrogen deficiency. 3. The PH of my water is off and is locking out nutrients. I have another plant of the same strain that has been getting the exact same treatment and conditions except it's in a slightly bigger pot. Incidentally it looks totally fine. Can anyone try to eyeball this thing for me and give me their two cents?


Nick what's wrong with Miracle Grow?


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## Nick Nugget (Dec 30, 2016)

Bowtieguy77 said:


> Nick what's wrong with Miracle Grow?


So I am only semi-experienced in terms of growing but I've done a lot of research and most of what I've read say's that most MG soil is hot. Essentially hot soil just means that the too many nutrients are present for the cannabis to absorb in it's life time (usually 4-6 months, depending of course if you're growing a photo-period plant or an auto-flower), that the nutrients present are not in the correct proportions (too much nitrogen during the flowering stage due to time release soil), that it is not a "nutrient-complete" medium (marijuana needs more than just Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium to flourish, things like calcium, magnesium, zinc, molybdenum etc.) and most simply because it's just cheap garbage soil for an indoor grow, maybe if you made super soil with a little MG it might be fine but I just stick with organic soil (Dr. Earth, Foxfarm). You might even consider using a soil-less medium like coco coir or rockwool/pearlite or something. Just my amateur opinion. Plus I had some nitrogen issues in my last grow that are going to more than likely effect my yields. The pictures below are two auto-fem sour diesels grown in MG, didn't wan't to transplant them (they're autos so it's not a great idea, you'll stunt the growth) but they could have yielded more. They have about another 3-4 weeks on em before harvest. I started them Nov. 2nd. Also more important than almost anything that I messed up on was pH. Buy strips or a digital meter because nothing will fuck your plant up more than bad pH.


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## Nick Nugget (Dec 30, 2016)

Also anyone else in the thread who is experienced, if you see any visual signs in the plant of nutrient problems, things I can change or just general comments, let me know! Please and Thank you!


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## Bowtieguy77 (Dec 30, 2016)

It's not so bad


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## Nick Nugget (Dec 30, 2016)

Bowtieguy77 said:


> It's not so bad


Very nice girl you got there. I'm not saying you can't do it, I mean it'll definitely grow a plant. I'm just trying to give the plant the best possible environment and I've heard a lot of negative things about miracle grow. Is there any particular reason that you like MG other than the cost?


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## Bowtieguy77 (Dec 30, 2016)

I was told by a person that you couldn't grow pot in or with Miracle Grow so I set out to see if they were right or wrong and came to a conclusion. It does a fine job in my opinion are there products out there that work better??? Hell yes but are there any that are cheaper than MG??? Not a chance.


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## UncleFat-Nug (Jan 1, 2017)

I am running into some kind of deficiency can someone please help me?
when i feed PH is 6.5 i am using FFOF soil with there nutrients and some cal/mag. 1 month into flowering and 2 out of 5 plants have a couple leafs looking like the picture attached.


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## ThaiBaby1 (Jan 1, 2017)

Bowtieguy77 said:


> I was told by a person that you couldn't grow pot in or with Miracle Grow so I set out to see if they were right or wrong and came to a conclusion. It does a fine job in my opinion are there products out there that work better??? Hell yes but are there any that are cheaper than MG??? Not a chance.


Used MG for years, my wife swears by it. I had a recent problem and thought it was the MG, but checked my water PH and its 8.5! Anything cheaper? yep, I can get perlite for 10 bucks a 4 cu ft bag. Gonna go with that and Jacks hydro ferts. Can't get cheaper than that.


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## Mrjacob274 (Jan 2, 2017)

Cant figure out whats wrong with this tangerine dream..


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## Nick Nugget (Jan 3, 2017)

Mrjacob274 said:


> Cant figure out whats wrong with this tangerine dream..View attachment 3866473 View attachment 3866474 View attachment 3866475


Are you feeding it anything? What type of light is it under or sunlight? Did you check pH? off the top of my head it looks like nute burn.


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## Mrjacob274 (Jan 3, 2017)

Feeding it general organics. Highest its gotten was 600ppm. Ph 6.3. Under t5s


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## UncleFat-Nug (Jan 3, 2017)

UncleFat-Nug said:


> I am running into some kind of deficiency can someone please help me?
> when i feed PH is 6.5 i am using FFOF soil with there nutrients and some cal/mag. 1 month into flowering and 2 out of 5 plants have a couple leafs looking like the picture attached.


Can someone please help me and diagnose this ? i raised my LED to make sure its not burning . I thought it was from the fan but moved it and seems i am getting more leafs starting to get affected . Really could use some advise and would appreciate it very much


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## Nick Nugget (Jan 3, 2017)

Mrjacob274 said:


> Feeding it general organics. Highest its gotten was 600ppm. Ph 6.3. Under t5s


When in doubt, flush it out. Sometimes if I can't figure it out what's going on with my ladies I'll flush them with pH'ed (6.0-7.0 soil, and 5.5-6.5 hydro) water or distilled water. That way you can rule out salt buildup or an overabundance of nutrients. I've read that often times the affected leaves will continue to die even if the problem is corrected so it's best to judge efficacy of treatment on new growth (this can make it difficult to determine what's wrong with a plant when it's flowering as it produces little to no new growth, only buds). Your plants are in vegetative stage so I doubt it's a phosphorous or potassium but it very well could be. I use GO as well and actually like the nutes. Have you been following the directions on the box cause they always tell you to give the plant more than it needs. 1/4-1/2 strength is more than enough, unless you have a monster plant. I'd say flush, consult the chart below and observe.


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## Nick Nugget (Jan 3, 2017)

UncleFat-Nug said:


> Can someone please help me and diagnose this ? i raised my LED to make sure its not burning . I thought it was from the fan but moved it and seems i am getting more leafs starting to get affected . Really could use some advise and would appreciate it very much


Can you get a shot of the whole plant? Does it start at the top or bottom? Knowing that will help determine if it's a mobile nutrient or not.


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## UncleFat-Nug (Jan 3, 2017)

Nick Nugget said:


> Can you get a shot of the whole plant? Does it start at the top or bottom? Knowing that will help determine if it's a mobile nutrient or not.


Its starting down low and has now a couple leafs up top starting to to the same. The leaf tips are cripsy like burnt and curling up at the ends and couple tiny brown spots .Was thinking nutrient burn or light burn but i have no clue . There sleeping right now but in the AM i will post pic of whole plant .


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## UncleFat-Nug (Jan 4, 2017)

Nick Nugget said:


> Can you get a shot of the whole plant? Does it start at the top or bottom? Knowing that will help determine if it's a mobile nutrient or not.


Please let me know what you think it might be.


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## UncleFat-Nug (Jan 5, 2017)

here are some close ups. please help . i do not want it to ruin my yield


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## Nick Nugget (Jan 5, 2017)

UncleFat-Nug said:


> Please let me know what you think it might be.


Try looking through this. I'm gonna go with my gut on this one so don't take this as "professional" as I may be wrong. Doubtful it's nitrogen, your plant looks nice and dark green, nitrogen deficiency appears as a yellowing of the plant, it cant be nitrogen toxicity as there doesn't appear to be a claw symptom on leaved and while your leaves are dark I think that's genetics. Most of the immobile nutrients show signs at the top first and leaves typically get lighter in color so I don't think it's that (your leaves look like they're getting darker from the outside to the inside then withering from the tips, you said it also starts from the bottom so prob a mobile element). My money is honestly on a phosphorous deficiency. Definitely one of the mobile elements. I'd just flush it with like 1/4 strength nutrient water to flush out any imbalances and then look for the problem to dissipate. If you're controlling temperature, pH, PPM air flow and all of the environmental stuff then it has to be something with the nutrients or pests. Check this out: http://www.growweedeasy.com/phosphorus-deficiency-cannabis.


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## UncleFat-Nug (Jan 5, 2017)

Nick Nugget said:


> Try looking through this. I'm gonna go with my gut on this one so don't take this as "professional" as I may be wrong. Doubtful it's nitrogen, your plant looks nice and dark green, nitrogen deficiency appears as a yellowing of the plant, it cant be nitrogen toxicity as there doesn't appear to be a claw symptom on leaved and while your leaves are dark I think that's genetics. Most of the immobile nutrients show signs at the top first and leaves typically get lighter in color so I don't think it's that (your leaves look like they're getting darker from the outside to the inside then withering from the tips, you said it also starts from the bottom so prob a mobile element). My money is honestly on a phosphorous deficiency. Definitely one of the mobile elements. I'd just flush it with like 1/4 strength nutrient water to flush out any imbalances and then look for the problem to dissipate. If you're controlling temperature, pH, PPM air flow and all of the environmental stuff then it has to be something with the nutrients or pests. Check this out: http://www.growweedeasy.com/phosphorus-deficiency-cannabis.


i appreciate your help. I will flush em and hopefully that will work


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## Nick Nugget (Jan 6, 2017)

UncleFat-Nug said:


> i appreciate your help. I will flush em and hopefully that will work


Also just keep in mind that cannabis is a hardy plant, while nutrient issues will decrease yields you can still come away with that dank even if the plant is slightly damaged. I have two sour diesel autos that are about 2 weeks away from harvest and they look kinda shitty (lime green color from bad pH and nutrient issues and me being an idiot), but I still anticipate harvesting 1 1/2- 2 Oz. of some straight fire from both. I've heard people just being happy getting the plant from seed to harvest. Don't feel too bad, I've learned so much from my mistakes and when I start my new batch after harvest they're just going to be that much better. Good luck Uncle Fat-Nug. Let me know how it turns out.


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## UncleFat-Nug (Jan 6, 2017)

Nick Nugget said:


> Also just keep in mind that cannabis is a hardy plant, while nutrient issues will decrease yields you can still come away with that dank even if the plant is slightly damaged. I have two sour diesel autos that are about 2 weeks away from harvest and they look kinda shitty (lime green color from bad pH and nutrient issues and me being an idiot), but I still anticipate harvesting 1 1/2- 2 Oz. of some straight fire from both. I've heard people just being happy getting the plant from seed to harvest. Don't feel too bad, I've learned so much from my mistakes and when I start my new batch after harvest they're just going to be that much better. Good luck Uncle Fat-Nug. Let me know how it turns out.


Flushed them today ill keep you posted on the final out come 
Its a passion for me for sure. seed to harvest and the time between is constantly on my mind lol. Its a learning experience every grow and my drive for sure is to yield the most i can possibly from them but am for sure happy with whatever i yield . Take it easy


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## FlyHighJay96 (Jan 24, 2017)

I don't know if I'm suppose to ask for help here but if anyone can tell me what they think this problem might be I'd really appreciate it


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## Tom333 (Apr 11, 2017)

lime73 said:


> just curious does that come in one formula?


Hi im using autopots system whit airdomes,i did ec 0,5 ph 5.5-61 using duch pro blom now en veg stage,en i start ti gave duch ecplode 50ml-100litre end my leaves starting yellow en burned,where the problem,somobody can give advice plesse.Sorry for my english,Thanks


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## Thomaspace00 (Apr 11, 2017)

Tom333 said:


> Hi im using autopots system whit airdomes,i did ec 0,5 ph 5.5-61 using duch pro blom now en veg stage,en i start ti gave duch ecplode 50ml-100litre end my leaves starting yellow en burned,where the problem,somobody can give advice plesse.Sorry for my english,Thanks


can you post some photos


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## farmerfischer (Apr 11, 2017)

Tom333 said:


> Hi im using autopots system whit airdomes,i did ec 0,5 ph 5.5-61 using duch pro blom now en veg stage,en i start ti gave duch ecplode 50ml-100litre end my leaves starting yellow en burned,where the problem,somobody can give advice plesse.Sorry for my english,Thanks


pics please


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## Thomaspace00 (Apr 11, 2017)

since im hare any info on this 60 percent of the tent is the hydro plant you can see how much biger the buds are they all are planted same time the hydro was a free be seed and i was trying Hydro first time now in the 5th week looks like i have the deficiency any info what it is Using Advanced nutes Voodoo Juice B52 Bid Bud Over Ride And Sensi Bloom PH PERFECT Test Ph every 2 days Ph Stable at 5.8/6.2 Room Temps 26.5 / 28.5 Roots loo not bad she drinks 10 liters of water every 4 to 5 days


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## farmerfischer (Apr 11, 2017)

Thomaspace00 said:


> since im hare any info on this 60 percent of the tent is the hydro plant you can see how much biger the buds are they all are planted same time the hydro was a free be seed and i was trying Hydro first time now in the 5th week looks like i have the deficiency any info what it is Using Advanced nutes Voodoo Juice B52 Bid Bud Over Ride And Sensi Bloom PH PERFECT Test Ph every 2 days Ph Stable at 5.8/6.2 Room Temps 26.5 / 28.5 Roots loo not bad she drinks 10 liters of water every 4 to 5 days


Looks like you May have nitrogen toxicity and possibly spider mites . what dose the underside of the leaves look like?


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## Thomaspace00 (Apr 11, 2017)

no is not spider mites i checked for them + i have a bottle of Mighty can kill them in 1 night  Only hydro has the Deficiency other plants are soil no deficiency's only the hydro on the 5th week of flowering she was doing amazingly good till 3 days ago 

Wash will check this nitrogen toxicity . was washing the bucket every 2 weeks before i put on he scrog net now i cant maybe i have some bacteria inside the bucket or i dont realy know


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## Tom333 (Apr 17, 2017)

farmerfischer said:


> pics please


The leaves look like that


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Apr 17, 2017)

Tom333 said:


> The leaves look like that


that's Canadian pot, we don't grow that shit round here


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## farmerfischer (Apr 17, 2017)

Tom333 said:


> The leaves look like that


That's a maple leaf. 
I'm stoned so I May be wrong.


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## InsoMnia90 (May 21, 2017)

Can anyone give me advice to help identify my problem ? At first i definitely had to high of a ph and i got that fixed up but the edges of my leaves are curling over .. im at 62% humidity and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, i water only when soil is dry, i poke my finger in the soil to the first knuckle if its dry i water. and this is a auto flowering plant that's why its a dwarf


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## Roger A. Shrubber (May 21, 2017)

the leaf edge curl is usually caused by either too much heat, too little humidity,or too much direct air flow, or a combination of the three. possibly your light is just a little too close.
the rest looks like you just need a good shot of cal-mag.


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## InsoMnia90 (May 21, 2017)

ok i do have 2 small fans on it my led lights are about 10 inches away and like i said 63 humidity and 80 F 
AND im not familiar with cal-meg some kind of nutrient?


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## InsoMnia90 (May 21, 2017)

ahh Nitrogen? will this cal-meg work .. its a wal-mart product


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## Roger A. Shrubber (May 21, 2017)

yes, that will work. while it has N, and Fe, its primarily Calcium and Magnesium. add it to your water and ph it to 6.1 before you water with it, the best range for it to be absorbed


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## InsoMnia90 (May 21, 2017)

*Thanks for the help ill grab some today add it to next water and post results in the next few days*


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## squirt1961 (May 21, 2017)

InsoMnia90 said:


> ok i do have 2 small fans on it my led lights are about 10 inches away and like i said 63 humidity and 80 F
> AND im not familiar with cal-meg some kind of nutrient?


Also led lights usually need to be higher above canopy most are supposed to be 2'-3' above canopy so my thoughts are light to close to canopy


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## InsoMnia90 (May 21, 2017)

squirt1961 said:


> Also led lights usually need to be higher above canopy most are supposed to be 2'-3' above canopy so my thoughts are light to close to canopy


I read that somewhere you may be right but these are cheap-O lights idk if it makes a difference but ill raise them up and see what results i get i really appreciate the fast responses guys and gals thanks


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## InsoMnia90 (May 21, 2017)

squirt1961 said:


> Also led lights usually need to be higher above canopy most are supposed to be 2'-3' above canopy so my thoughts are light to close to canopy


i think i meant to say these are cheep lights and i don't think the wattage is correct who knows .. so i figured id go closer in case they are indeed that cheep and labeled wrong


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## squirt1961 (May 21, 2017)

InsoMnia90 said:


> i think i meant to say these are cheep lights and i don't think the wattage is correct who knows .. so i figured id go closer in case they are indeed that cheep and labeled wrong


I had a fairly cheap 800 watt led by king it was on around $125.00 it says 3' above canopy i tried lowering it once and my leaves curled and burnt looking just like yours. Thats my best guess


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## InsoMnia90 (May 21, 2017)

thanks bud


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## squirt1961 (May 21, 2017)

InsoMnia90 said:


> thanks bud


Your welcome.. good luck... After growing with led for about 4 years im going back to mh/hps better quality buds and plants overall. The LED s tend to keep buds more airy and lighter.... I just cant afford the quality LED lights out there..


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## Logan Burke (May 22, 2017)

Roger A. Shrubber said:


> the leaf edge curl is usually caused by either too much heat, too little humidity,or too much direct air flow, or a combination of the three. possibly your light is just a little too close.
> the rest looks like you just need a good shot of cal-mag.


Def what he said.


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## Logan Burke (May 22, 2017)

Thomaspace00 said:


> since im hare any info on this 60 percent of the tent is the hydro plant you can see how much biger the buds are they all are planted same time the hydro was a free be seed and i was trying Hydro first time now in the 5th week looks like i have the deficiency any info what it is Using Advanced nutes Voodoo Juice B52 Bid Bud Over Ride And Sensi Bloom PH PERFECT Test Ph every 2 days Ph Stable at 5.8/6.2 Room Temps 26.5 / 28.5 Roots loo not bad she drinks 10 liters of water every 4 to 5 days


Calcium, Magnesium and Iron are generally much more available in soil than hydro, which it must be added. Most soils naturally contain some level of the three. In hydro, unless your base nutes have enough, you need to add extra calmag. I find that in hydro I always have to add calmag in mid flower or I get a bad deficiency that appears to be many different deficiencies.


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## chuckie86 (May 22, 2017)

Can anyone tell me what's wrong with this not sure it was fine about week ago I was thinking it was from the heat got a heat wave last week and my room.got to 110 so I moved all my plants into my basement where it's stays 82-84 and humidity is at 50 now so hopefully everything gets better just fed them some.elite A,B,C and root igniter


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## Budzbuddha (May 22, 2017)

Looks like root issue .... Since you just fed , i would mix up a foliar spray of CalMag. 
The main symptom ( to me ) is the CUPPING. 

Is the grow area ( floor area ) always looking damp , or mildew ? 
Just asking.


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## chuckie86 (May 22, 2017)

Actually I just put them in the basement on the cement floor and when I water.it it stays moist a day but it's a nice size plant in a 3 gallon pot should I put in a 5-7 gallon u think ?


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## Budzbuddha (May 22, 2017)

chuckie86 said:


> Actually I just put them in the basement on the cement floor and when I water.it it stays moist a day but it's a nice size plant in a 3 gallon pot should I put in a 5-7 gallon u think ?


I probably wouldnt risk a transplant while she is ILL . It may shock her and you will be worse off.


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## chuckie86 (May 22, 2017)

So u say foliar spray her with calmag


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## InsoMnia90 (May 23, 2017)

Logan Burke said:


> Def what he said.


thanks for the input ill be grabbing some today


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## InsoMnia90 (May 23, 2017)

squirt1961 said:


> Your welcome.. good luck... After growing with led for about 4 years im going back to mh/hps better quality buds and plants overall. The LED s tend to keep buds more airy and lighter.... I just cant afford the quality LED lights out there..


i basically cant switch to HPS/MH to hot in this state and i cant pay that electricity bill i found a decent light at a decent price when i get it and start my next grown ill let you in on results so maybe you can avoid sweating up your house also.


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## Logan Burke (May 23, 2017)

Have you checked out LEC/CMH lights Insomnia? Run cooler than HID's, but still looks like one, and has a vastly improved spectrum compared to any HID....food for thought. Good luck bud.


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## Logan Burke (May 23, 2017)

chuckie86 said:


> Can anyone tell me what's wrong with this not sure it was fine about week ago I was thinking it was from the heat got a heat wave last week and my room.got to 110 so I moved all my plants into my basement where it's stays 82-84 and humidity is at 50 now so hopefully everything gets better just fed them some.elite A,B,C and root igniter


Those babies are clawed up like hell it looks to me...which is indicitive of N toxicity...anyone else seeing that or just me?


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## chuckie86 (May 23, 2017)

Yea I thought that or heat but when I thought to much N I flushed it and still doing it


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## Logan Burke (May 23, 2017)

They will never recover once they claw, but if you fix it, the new growth will not be clawed.


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## chuckie86 (May 23, 2017)

OK well it was root bound.also I put into a 10 gallon pot and lowed the amount of N I use thanks


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## Logan Burke (May 25, 2017)

Hope all improves/improved for ya bud


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## chuckie86 (May 27, 2017)

Yea buddy it looks way better I put in a diff pot and I have it nutes with low N and it look 70% better tied it down to yea it's actually a bag seed we got a lb of pineapple express and it was fire and we found 200 seeds and I have 5 in flower and here's what they look like at about 2 weeks in and shit looks fire.and that was few days ago and it's just getting frostier as days go.by not bad for.free seeds.well bag seeds IV had awesome bud from.bag seeds actually


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## InsoMnia90 (May 28, 2017)

I posted a week ago or so about my plant leaves yellowing and son on and i discovered that the ph of my runoff water was 7.7 
how can i drop it down just a PH'd flush? the flower seems to be doing fine but the leaves are taking a beating. *ALSO I WAS A DUMMY AND PUT THIS PLANT IN MIRACLE GROW* and i know that was a big mistake .. but is there a way to save her? I watered her 2 days ago with a half gallon of R.O water PH'd at 6.2 with CAL-MAG no real changes


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## chuckie86 (May 29, 2017)

Here's few pics after transplant and less.nitrogen new growth looks.good


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## chuckie86 (May 30, 2017)

InsoMnia90 said:


> I posted a week ago or so about my plant leaves yellowing and son on and i discovered that the ph of my runoff water was 7.7
> how can i drop it down just a PH'd flush? the flower seems to be doing fine but the leaves are taking a beating. *ALSO I WAS A DUMMY AND PUT THIS PLANT IN MIRACLE GROW* and i know that was a big mistake .. but is there a way to save her? I watered her 2 days ago with a half gallon of R.O water PH'd at 6.2 with CAL-MAG no real changes


Not sure if that's a auto or what but if it's a photo you could pull it outta pot get as much MG soil off the roots with out killing it maybe dip the roots in a bucket of water to get rest of dirt off then put in GOOD soil that might help then feed with a 0-15-15/something with little to no N well good.luck


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## InsoMnia90 (May 31, 2017)

chuckie86 said:


> Not sure if that's a auto or what but if it's a photo you could pull it outta pot get as much MG soil off the roots with out killing it maybe dip the roots in a bucket of water to get rest of dirt off then put in GOOD soil that might help then feed with a 0-15-15/something with little to no N well good.luck


She is an auto but that seems a little scary to uproot her .. iv been dosing her with R.O water PH'D at 5.8 to try and flush out that crappy soil ... she doesn't have a long time left for flower so i think ill just try to keep her as healthy as possible with good water and TLC her flowers are pungent and becoming coated with resin .. i kinda think she'll do fine up until harvest. But on another note have you ever done this before ? Uprooting and rinsing the roots?


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## Northernmich (May 31, 2017)

What would this b ?


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## InsoMnia90 (Jun 1, 2017)

Northernmich said:


> What would this b ?


 Looks like beginning on nute burn or lockout , what's your ph at? Soil, hydro?


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## Northernmich (Jun 1, 2017)

Soil is Promix 50% 20% ocene forest 20% happy frog 10% per lite.. RO Water Lucas Ratio 700 ppn ph 6.0 fed every time.. plant is 2 foot high def showing in the middle area of the plant 
http://i67.tinypic.com/2cie80k.jpg


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## InsoMnia90 (Jun 1, 2017)

Northernmich said:


> Soil is Promix 50% 20% ocene forest 20% happy frog 10% per lite.. RO Water Lucas Ratio 700 ppn ph 6.0 fed every time.. plant is 2 foot high def showing in the middle area of the plant
> 
> Stop using Lucas formula and water with ph Ro only ocean Forest has tons of newts in it you don't need the Lucas untill later. That will help


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## InsoMnia90 (Jun 1, 2017)

It's nute burn no more lucas till flower bud.


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## InsoMnia90 (Jun 1, 2017)

Northernmich said:


> Soil is Promix 50% 20% ocene forest 20% happy frog 10% per lite.. RO Water Lucas Ratio 700 ppn ph 6.0 fed every time.. plant is 2 foot high def showing in the middle area of the plant


I don't know promix soil, but it's definitely nute burn


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## BurnzyBurnz (Jul 16, 2017)

Only thing you didn't cover was what products to use.

In my case I'm stuck with trying to figure out what nutes to use...or make my own from banana peals, coffee grounds and egg shells...or buying a fertilizer or seaweed kelp extract. WHAT DO I FEED MY BABIEZ


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## Thomaspace00 (Jul 16, 2017)

BurnzyBurnz said:


> Only thing you didn't cover was what products to use.
> 
> In my case I'm stuck with trying to figure out what nutes to use...or make my own from banana peals, coffee grounds and egg shells...or buying a fertilizer or seaweed kelp extract. WHAT DO I FEED MY BABIEZ


AdvancedNutes thebest


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## Thomaspace00 (Jul 16, 2017)

Thomaspace00 said:


> AdvancedNutes thebest


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## irish grower (Jul 20, 2017)

They will burn the shit out of your plants,especially that hammer head.bin that trust me,thank me later, try it on one plant if you dont believe me


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## Olive Drab Green (Jul 20, 2017)

Thomaspace00 said:


> View attachment 3979248


The owner of the company is a convicted pedophile. Roll with Roots Organics.


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## GANJA MONSTA (Jul 22, 2017)

Hey everyone I have a question - I transplanted two of my plants two days ago, one of them which ill refer to as #2 immediately started drooping and by the end of the day I had to prop up the plant. The next day (yesterday) #2 was standing on its own but it had brownish spots all over, and plant #1 started wilting. Today #2 is drooping and still has brown dying leaves. Plant #1 is also drooping/wilting and it has some yellowing on the bottom leaves.

When I transplanted I gently shook and rolled the root mass in my hands to get the old shitty dirt I was using out because in the new pots I'm using *Roots Organics Original Potting Soil* but also to expose the inner roots so I could add my stump tea to all the roots directly. I then put stump tea in the holes I had pre-dug for the plants and I placed them in their new homes filled them in with some more dirt and watered in with 1/8 Tsp *Fox Farms Big Bloom *& 1/8 Tsp* Fox Farms Grow Big *in a 2-liter bottle of Ph 6.5 tap water.

Please let me know what you think I can do to help the poor girls out. Thank you all very much for your help!!


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## BurnzyBurnz (Jul 22, 2017)

GANJA MONSTA said:


> Hey everyone I have a question - I transplanted two of my plants two days ago, one of them which ill refer to as #2 immediately started drooping and by the end of the day I had to prop up the plant. The next day (yesterday) #2 was standing on its own but it had brownish spots all over, and plant #1 started wilting. Today #2 is drooping and still has brown dying leaves. Plant #1 is also drooping/wilting and it has some yellowing on the bottom leaves.
> 
> When I transplanted I gently shook and rolled the root mass in my hands to get the old shitty dirt I was using out because in the new pots I'm using *Roots Organics Original Potting Soil* but also to expose the inner roots so I could add my stump tea to all the roots directly. I then put stump tea in the holes I had pre-dug for the plants and I placed them in their new homes filled them in with some more dirt and watered in with 1/8 Tsp *Fox Farms Big Bloom *& 1/8 Tsp* Fox Farms Grow Big *in a 2-liter bottle of Ph 6.5 tap water.
> 
> Please let me know what you think I can do to help the poor girls out. Thank you all very much for your help!!


I'm not an expert but it sounds like you shocked the living hell outta of your babies. Transplanting is going to definitely slow they're growth for a couple days but adding tea, big bloom AND big grow as well as your pH level at 6.5 ekkkkk...I hate to say but you might have over did it with all of that. A simple transplant would be sufficient til they get comfortable in there in home. 

As for solutions, I'd say try not feeding or watering for at least 2/3 days. And oh you water to 6.7 / 6.8 max/min. Only water no feeding. Make sure your temps are correct. Otherwise I'm not to sure.


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## BurnzyBurnz (Jul 22, 2017)

GANJA MONSTA said:


> Hey everyone I have a question - I transplanted two of my plants two days ago, one of them which ill refer to as #2 immediately started drooping and by the end of the day I had to prop up the plant. The next day (yesterday) #2 was standing on its own but it had brownish spots all over, and plant #1 started wilting. Today #2 is drooping and still has brown dying leaves. Plant #1 is also drooping/wilting and it has some yellowing on the bottom leaves.
> 
> When I transplanted I gently shook and rolled the root mass in my hands to get the old shitty dirt I was using out because in the new pots I'm using *Roots Organics Original Potting Soil* but also to expose the inner roots so I could add my stump tea to all the roots directly. I then put stump tea in the holes I had pre-dug for the plants and I placed them in their new homes filled them in with some more dirt and watered in with 1/8 Tsp *Fox Farms Big Bloom *& 1/8 Tsp* Fox Farms Grow Big *in a 2-liter bottle of Ph 6.5 tap water.
> 
> Please let me know what you think I can do to help the poor girls out. Thank you all very much for your help!!


Pictures help alot for diagnosis


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## Angus Hung (Jul 22, 2017)

I would have to guess on the shock side of things plants dont like to be transplanted and have there roots messed with, it may take a while for her to get used of her new home. i generally wont water for the first couple days after transplant.


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## squirt1961 (Jul 22, 2017)

Im thinking shock also beat thing to do when transplanting is just phd water or half strength nutes at most. It sure sounds like transplant shock plus over fertilization. I think id try a flush first before anything.


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## GANJA MONSTA (Jul 23, 2017)

BurnzyBurnz said:


> Pictures help alot for diagnosis



Thank you for your help Burnzy! Yeah I'm not sure why I thought 1/4 strength nutes would be helpful for watering them in lol.. And sorry for the lack of pics I just don't have any on my phone at the moment but ill get a pic of #1 tonight. I got rid of #2 this morning unfortunately.


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## GANJA MONSTA (Jul 23, 2017)

Angus Hung said:


> I would have to guess on the shock side of things plants dont like to be transplanted and have there roots messed with, it may take a while for her to get used of her new home. i generally wont water for the first couple days after transplant.


 Alright gotcha thank you. I figured it was just shock but i never had a plant die from transplant shock before.. Guess theres a first for everything though


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## GANJA MONSTA (Jul 23, 2017)

squirt1961 said:


> Im thinking shock also beat thing to do when transplanting is just phd water or half strength nutes at most. It sure sounds like transplant shock plus over fertilization. I think id try a flush first before anything.


I used quarter strength nutes so I thought it would be helpful.. But I'll be using only water for transplants from now on that's for sure!


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## GANJA MONSTA (Jul 24, 2017)

Ok heres a pic of transplant #1, the reason it's so bare is because on Thursday 7/20 (3-4 days ago) I took the bottom set of fan leaves off cause they were dying/dead and then this morning I had to take another set of fan leaves off because they had completely died and just needed a gentle push to fall off.

Also I gently squeeze the main stalk/stem each day just to see how strong it is and every day it has felt strong almost wood-like but today the outer layer was kind of soft when I squeezed it. I'm not sure if that means anything but I thought it could be helpful for a diagnosis.

Thanks again for the help fellow growers!!


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## jonsnow399 (Jul 24, 2017)

Thomaspace00 said:


> View attachment 3979248


You forgot "Rocket Fuel" formula! You can't grow plants without it.


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## BurnzyBurnz (Jul 24, 2017)

GANJA MONSTA said:


> Ok heres a pic of transplant #1, the reason it's so bare is because on Thursday 7/20 (3-4 days ago) I took the bottom set of fan leaves off cause they were dying/dead and then this morning I had to take another set of fan leaves off because they had completely died and just needed a gentle push to fall off.
> 
> Also I gently squeeze the main stalk/stem each day just to see how strong it is and every day it has felt strong almost wood-like but today the outer layer was kind of soft when I squeezed it. I'm not sure if that means anything but I thought it could be helpful for a diagnosis.
> 
> ...


Ya ouch...
But cannabis plants tend to recover quickly given the correct ph. Just keep regular water only 6.7pH every 3 days. Give it a week or two and she'll come back to life


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## GANJA MONSTA (Jul 25, 2017)

BurnzyBurnz said:


> Ya ouch...
> But cannabis plants tend to recover quickly given the correct ph. Just keep regular water only 6.7pH every 3 days. Give it a week or two and she'll come back to life


Thank you very much Burnzy! I will let you know how it turns out!


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## InsoMnia90 (Jul 28, 2017)

Hi my girl has been doing real well she is at 39 days of flowering .. can anyone tell me whats going on with her today this is bothering me , whats up with her leaves tips turning brown i though it was a ZINC DIFF any advice?


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## Bowtieguy77 (Jul 28, 2017)

Throw that pile away and start over it would be much easier


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## LeMrMagu (Jul 29, 2017)

N def / PH ?


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## InsoMnia90 (Jul 29, 2017)

Bowtieguy77 said:


> Throw that pile away and start over it would be much easier


 that's not cool lol she's not doing that bad


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## Johnei (Jul 29, 2017)

The purple veins you see is phosphorus deficiency, from what cause exactly, can be a few things.
As is that burned spot on the leaf in the pic, this is due to phosphorus deficiency I am fairly certain.
Overall color/tone of plant, nitrite deficiency. Again, cause can be few things.
This leads me to believe, either pH is completely out of range locking out main elements for healthy growth but elements are atually present in the soil, or they just need more food. Must find out which this is. Testing runoff pH and EC can help to determine this. Too high nutrients, either in the soil, or from feeding, can also cause pH to drastically drop, which could be a cause, and why leaf tips show burning. Also, there is chance this can be from too low temperature either always or at night time dipping way too low, locking out elements, like phosphorus


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## BurnzyBurnz (Jul 30, 2017)

Bowtieguy77 said:


> Throw that pile away and start over it would be much easier


Don't listen to this comment. Your girls are okay they just need a little help. No biggie.


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## InsoMnia90 (Jul 30, 2017)

BurnzyBurnz said:


> Don't listen to this comment. Your girls are okay they just need a little help. No biggie.


Any specifics ?


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## Jhon77 (Aug 13, 2017)

Same prob as you bud mine


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## grassy007 (Aug 17, 2017)

Some say it's lacking in phosphorous. You might want to use a product low (none) in Nitrogen such as FF's Big Bloom to prevent nitrogen overload but which adds P and K nutes. I was using Alaska 5-1-1 fish oil and my plants were getting too much nitrogen (dark leaves) and not enough P and K. I've stopped adding high nitrogen nutes for the time being until my leaves start to lighten up (which they are slowly doing).


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## Stltoed (Sep 7, 2017)

This is my second grow. I have 3Ayahuasca Purple and 1 Pineapple Chunk in hydro and one more in soil in its own little room... The soil plant is cranking! It pisses me off. The hydro plants have been in flower for exactly 4 weeks. And they look ok, but it took a while to get a stretch going, only one plant seems to know how to really do it. Haha My leaves are dark, clawing at the ends, and sugar leaves are cupping. One single leaf set on my smallest plant is showing a brown rough area in between the veins. This may just be an anomaly. My question is... is this a nitrogen toxicity issue? There are no yellow leaves, and absolutely no nutrient issues showing in the leaves. Air is 81 ish. Humidity ranges between 40 and 60. Ph. Is anywhere between 5.5 and 6.7. I keep it moving, without making to many huge changes all at once. TDS is at 1210 right now.

My system is a homemade RDWC. 50 gallons of nutrients total and plenty or air, each pot grows two plants, there's an Eco Plus 3 air pump and 12 inch diffuser for each pot.

I'm using the GH trio for nutes, and Koolbloom liq. for now, dry later. Calimagic, Armor Si. and Diamond Nectar humic acid. I use Floralicious in veg. I stopped this in flower.

I have 2 400watt Black Dog Phytomax 2s and 2 670nm red "bloom" lights from G8. These lights are just used to fill in dark corners and are regularly moved to the soil grow which uses a P4 Platinum light. 

I had every intention to send pictures but they won't upload so, i guess I'm kinda screwed


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## Josiah123456789 (Sep 9, 2017)

Hi. Im a first time grower and Im having a problem with my seedling that I just cant seem to fix. The seedlings leaves r beginning to turn yellow. I checked the ph and it was between 7.5 to 8. Could it because the soil is too alkaline? Or is it do to a nitrogen deficiency? Pls help


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## Bowtieguy77 (Sep 9, 2017)

Josiah123456789 said:


> Hi. Im a first time grower and Im having a problem with my seedling that I just cant seem to fix. The seedlings leaves r beginning to turn yellow. I checked the ph and it was between 7.5 to 8. Could it because the soil is too alkaline? Or is it do to a nitrogen deficiency? Pls helpView attachment 4007780


Ph your water to 6.0 every time you water or feed and your problems will go away as for feed those little guys don't need anything if they are in dirt for a few weeks


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## Josiah123456789 (Sep 9, 2017)

Bowtieguy77 said:


> Ph your water to 6.0 every time you water or feed and your problems will go away as for feed those little guys don't need anything if they are in dirt for a few weeks


Theyve been in dirt for only 2 weeks. I havent seen much growth in the past week tho. Just so i understand what ur saying is if they have only been in dirt for a short amount of time dont worry about the yellowing?


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## Bowtieguy77 (Sep 16, 2017)

Josiah123456789 said:


> Theyve been in dirt for only 2 weeks. I havent seen much growth in the past week tho. Just so i understand what ur saying is if they have only been in dirt for a short amount of time dont worry about the yellowing?


The reason you aren't seeing any growth is because the ph is out of balance and your plant can't uptake nutrients so it is essentially eating itself you need to see what the ph of your soil is so you know how to fix it either raise or lower the ph. That would never be normal for any grow method. If you are trying to grow organically and you made your own soil it might not have enough bacterial growth to keep up with the growth of the plant, with that being said if your ph is way to far either way it can kill off almost all of your beneficial creatures. What other information can you give me?


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## m00rejuice (Oct 25, 2017)

Hello I have some spots on my fan leaves and I'm not exactly sure what to do or what it is... Please help.


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Oct 25, 2017)

looks like mag deficiency, check your ph going in, if its not at least 6.1 plants have a hard time absorbing mag.
a full plant picture would help, different things start in different places, would be helpful to see a shot of lower, older leaves, and newer growth from the top of the plant


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## Stltoed (Oct 25, 2017)

I had that! I never got a definitive answer. But more than one person said it was a Boron issue. I ended up using a nosebleed expensive additive called Fasilitor from Aptus at my next nutrient change (DWC) and it went away.

Don't buy a big bottle... this is 100ml bottle. It was $40. The good news is its highly concentrated. This is a controversial product due to its cost. But it has readily availabe Boron, Molybdenum, and Silica (which is easy enough to find elswhere) if you have a product with the first two you may want to shine this stuff and try it.


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## jewsh808 (Nov 8, 2017)

Been having Nitrogen issues...seems like no matter what I do I get the tip burns, ultra dark green leaf and the leaf curls down and "claws"...I just run a veg and clone room at the moment...I have my Hanna meter thats correctly calibrated so I'm keeping track of the pH of my solutions and the ppm...what am I missing? Right now I'm using and only using KLN, Pro-tekt, Hygrozyme, Roots (elite91), and Cali-Magic...I was using Dyna Gro Foliage Pro, then switched to Grow...i really felt both still were overloading Nitrogen ...so now I'm avoiding nitrogen/grow nutes just momentarily ...


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## Stltoed (Nov 8, 2017)

It's a bitch. I had a rather nasty case of over nitro last grow. I flushed for days on two seperated occasions to no avail. I run an RDWC, so you think it would be easy to kick, but no. One guy told me to use abscisic acid right after a flush, but i ran out of time. Read up on that stuff it sounds cool, but its not cheap. Good luck man.


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## jewsh808 (Nov 8, 2017)

Fuck..I've already done so much lol I don't want to over react anymore lol...Yeah its nasty totally learned my lesson on this round..I was able to transplant some babes from a solo cup up into 1 gallons so looks like some are growing out of it


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## Stltoed (Nov 8, 2017)

It sucks. You want to strangle those little bastards sometimes. I totally get it. I want to work with ABA someday, but not when my plants have downsydrome. Good luck dude. If you need a shoulder to cry on im here. Haha


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## jewsh808 (Nov 8, 2017)

Stltoed said:


> It sucks. You want to strangle those little bastards sometimes. I totally get it. I want to work with ABA someday, but not when my plants have downsydrome. Good luck dude. If you need a shoulder to cry on im here. Haha


I'm starting to see why guys use the "Lucas Formula" ...to avoid nitrogen overuse right??


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Nov 8, 2017)

those are classic overfeeding signs. dark green leaves and tip clawing are sure signs of N tox. tip burn can come from a number of things being too heavy.
what kind of pots are you using, what kind of medium, what strength are you feeding at?


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## jewsh808 (Nov 8, 2017)

Red square bottom Solo cups, 4" square pots and 1 gallon square pots...I use peatmoss/perlite...it procision advantage mix from roots..."soilless" does not come amended at all..I was doing anywhere from 1/4-1/2 tsp per gallon of foliage pro (Dyna Gro) balancing out the pH with protekt...hygrozyme to keep roots healthy...I had my Hanna meter I would never go over 350ppm and kept my pH always 6.2-6.6...I emailed Roots company to ask them just to be sure and they recommended pH for the mix I was using is 6.3-7.0


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## OneHitDone (Nov 9, 2017)

jewsh808 said:


> Red square bottom Solo cups, 4" square pots and 1 gallon square pots...I use peatmoss/perlite...it procision advantage mix from roots..."soilless" does not come amended at all..I was doing anywhere from 1/4-1/2 tsp per gallon of foliage pro (Dyna Gro) balancing out the pH with protekt...hygrozyme to keep roots healthy...I had my Hanna meter I would never go over 350ppm and kept my pH always 6.2-6.6...I emailed Roots company to ask them just to be sure and they recommended pH for the mix I was using is 6.3-7.0


One other consideration, aren't enzymes more of a clean up the roots occasionally/later kind of thing? Don't see why you would use enzymes that early on.


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## jewsh808 (Nov 11, 2017)

OneHitDone said:


> One other consideration, aren't enzymes more of a clean up the roots occasionally/later kind of thing? Don't see why you would use enzymes that early on.


Thanks...I'll keep that in mind


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## Calicode (Dec 21, 2017)

At first I thought that it was a potassium deficiency but now I'm thinking maybe it's zinc. Can you guys help me. I'm in my 10 week of flower. Looks like about 2 weeks left. Thinking about just water for the rest smh


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## Go go n chill (Dec 21, 2017)

Calicode said:


> At first I thought that it was a potassium deficiency but now I'm thinking maybe it's zinc. Can you guys help me. I'm in my 10 week of flower. Looks like about 2 weeks left. Thinking about just water for the rest smh


I'm new to growing but I'd agree on the idea of just water till harvest. They may be cannibalizing their nutrients. Might be a little late in the game to worry about it


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## Calicode (Dec 21, 2017)

Go go n chill said:


> I'm new to growing but I'd agree on the idea of just water till harvest. They may be cannibalizing their nutrients. Might be a little late in the game to worry about it


Cool. Thanks bro


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## Go go n chill (Dec 21, 2017)

Calicode said:


> At first I thought that it was a potassium deficiency but now I'm thinking maybe it's zinc. Can you guys help me. I'm in my 10 week of flower. Looks like about 2 weeks left. Thinking about just water for the rest smh


Nice flowers


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## Calicode (Dec 21, 2017)

Go go n chill said:


> Nice flowers


Thanks bro. This is my first grow.


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## Go go n chill (Dec 21, 2017)

Calicode said:


> Thanks bro. This is my first grow.


Looking real good then!


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## John Levy (Jan 17, 2018)

Thanks for this information its helps me a lot in understanding my plantation. currently i am facing yellowing of leaves and some people are giving me advice that use phosphorous and potash solution but i think it is advisable to consult some cannabis dispensaries. but the information you put is healthy and useful 
Thankyou


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## mista sativa (Jan 24, 2018)

Can someone help me out? I’ve been reading trying to figure it out, and I think it’s calcium deficiency... or possibly the beginning stages of nitrogen burn. I use happy frog and Roots Organics Soil, mixed with about 25% coco with cork and 10% added perlite. Half a bag of worm castings. I added a small amount of blood and kelp meal. I fed the plant two ACT’s of kelp, fish emulsion, bat guano and blood meal the last two waterings. I feel like it’s cal-mag. LMK what you think. Btw it’s started spotting halfway up the plant. The initial one-pointed leaves are slightly burned on tips.


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## Go go n chill (Jan 24, 2018)

mista sativa said:


> Can someone help me out? I’ve been reading trying to figure it out, and I think it’s calcium deficiency... or possibly the beginning stages of nitrogen burn. I use happy frog and Roots Organics Soil, mixed with about 25% coco with cork and 10% added perlite. I added a small amount of blood and kelp meal. I fed the plant two ACT’s of kelp, fish emulsion, bat guano and blood meal the last two waterings. I feel like it’s cal-mag. LMK what you think. Btw it’s started spotting halfway up the plant. The initial one-pointed leaves are slightly burned on tips.


OMG Bro! They are gonna eat you alive on here.those pics suck. Lol


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## mista sativa (Jan 24, 2018)

Go go n chill said:


> OMG Bro! They are gonna eat you alive on here.those pics suck. Lol


My bad. I’ll take pics outside tomorrow. Can you see what I mean in the first picture? Small brown spots. A little bit inside the edge of the leaf around the tips.


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## Go go n chill (Jan 24, 2018)

mista sativa said:


> My bad. I’ll take pics outside tomorrow. Can you see what I mean in the first picture? Small brown spots. A little bit inside the edge of the leaf around the tips.


Yes I can see it. I've never had that show up early in a grow. I'm not the best at fixing Sick plants so I'll bow out and listen


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Jan 24, 2018)

pics in natural light would help, but...i'd say you do have a slight calcium deficiency, as well as maybe spider mites.
the coco you added to your soil may be sucking up some of your calcium, i think a good dose of cal mag to start with, then a small dose weekly ought to stop the spotting. also it seems like you may be slightly overfeeding, you put a good amount of stuff in your soil, then you fed them twice in a row on top of that. 
i say spider mites because some of your leaves seem to have damage that's consistent with mites, but its hard to say in that light


----------



## Go go n chill (Jan 25, 2018)

mista sativa said:


> Can someone help me out? I’ve been reading trying to figure it out, and I think it’s calcium deficiency... or possibly the beginning stages of nitrogen burn. I use happy frog and Roots Organics Soil, mixed with about 25% coco with cork and 10% added perlite. Half a bag of worm castings. I added a small amount of blood and kelp meal. I fed the plant two ACT’s of kelp, fish emulsion, bat guano and blood meal the last two waterings. I feel like it’s cal-mag. LMK what you think. Btw it’s started spotting halfway up the plant. The initial one-pointed leaves are slightly burned on tips.


i think you just 
"Loved them too much" just give them water for a week or so. They are young and should not need anything right now. I had to give my2cents


----------



## mista sativa (Jan 25, 2018)

Go go n chill said:


> i think you just
> "Loved them too much" just give them water for a week or so. They are young and should not need anything right now. I had to give my2cents


I’m just trying to distinguish if it’s nitrogen or calcium. The cal mag product I use has nitrogen in it. I didn’t want to add more if that’s the problem. I will be just watering until the problem is more obvious... I’ve just never had this type of browning before. I’ve just had burning around the tips from hot soil. Never spots. At the same time I always grew outdoors, so I wasn’t constantly looking at my plants daily.


----------



## mista sativa (Jan 25, 2018)

Roger A. Shrubber said:


> pics in natural light would help, but...i'd say you do have a slight calcium deficiency, as well as maybe spider mites.
> the coco you added to your soil may be sucking up some of your calcium, i think a good dose of cal mag to start with, then a small dose weekly ought to stop the spotting. also it seems like you may be slightly overfeeding, you put a good amount of stuff in your soil, then you fed them twice in a row on top of that.
> i say spider mites because some of your leaves seem to have damage that's consistent with mites, but its hard to say in that light


Ok that’s what I was thinking from what I’ve read. Calcium seems more obvious because of the coco. I usually use coco loco which is treated, so I didn’t put much thought into it. It may seem like I’m feeding too much (maybe I am) but I added amendments at very low levels to the soil. The first tea was very weak. The second one could’ve of been a little hot, but the plant was liking it until I noticed this... I do believe it’s calcium though. I’ll get better pictures today


----------



## mista sativa (Jan 25, 2018)

Roger A. Shrubber said:


> pics in natural light would help, but...i'd say you do have a slight calcium deficiency, as well as maybe spider mites.
> the coco you added to your soil may be sucking up some of your calcium, i think a good dose of cal mag to start with, then a small dose weekly ought to stop the spotting. also it seems like you may be slightly overfeeding, you put a good amount of stuff in your soil, then you fed them twice in a row on top of that.
> i say spider mites because some of your leaves seem to have damage that's consistent with mites, but its hard to say in that light


There are absolutely no spider mites though.


----------



## Go go n chill (Jan 25, 2018)

mista sativa said:


> I’m just trying to distinguish if it’s nitrogen or calcium. The cal mag product I use has nitrogen in it. I didn’t want to add more if that’s the problem. I will be just watering until the problem is more obvious... I’ve just never had this type of browning before. I’ve just had burning around the tips from hot soil. Never spots. At the same time I always grew outdoors, so I wasn’t constantly looking at my plants daily.


Wish I could say " I've never had brown spots"


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Jan 25, 2018)

there's something, leaves don't eat themselves


----------



## mista sativa (Jan 25, 2018)

Roger A. Shrubber said:


> there's something, leaves don't eat themselves


There’s no bugs... here’s better pictures


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## lrg632 (Jan 27, 2018)

5ml Grow
5ml micro
2ml bloom
2 ml hydroguard
1ml silica
Distilled water
Reduced to 375 ppm 5.8 ph

I water every other day, 60 humidity 72-77 temp, and 18/6 3 week old clones 12 inches tall.

Any suggestions?


----------



## Northernmich (Jan 27, 2018)

Ouch... rust fungi? Not sure.


----------



## Roger A. Shrubber (Jan 27, 2018)

lrg632 said:


> 5ml Grow
> 5ml micro
> 2ml bloom
> 2 ml hydroguard
> ...


you're watering way too often, unless you have them in straight perlite. let them get nice and dry between waterings, keeping them too wet is bad for your roots, stunts them, and it locks out a lot of nutrients, which i think is whats happened to your plant. 
if you're feeding them that every time you water, that's way too much.
bump that up to about 450 ppm, feed them that once a week, then give them ph'ed water in between.
or, cut it down to about 200 ppm and alternate feed and ph'ed water


----------



## lrg632 (Jan 30, 2018)

Roger A. Shrubber said:


> you're watering way too often, unless you have them in straight perlite. let them get nice and dry between waterings, keeping them too wet is bad for your roots, stunts them, and it locks out a lot of nutrients, which i think is whats happened to your plant.
> if you're feeding them that every time you water, that's way too much.
> bump that up to about 450 ppm, feed them that once a week, then give them ph'ed water in between.
> or, cut it down to about 200 ppm and alternate feed and ph'ed water


They are in rockwool cubes and it's drying out almost every 24 hours. So


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Jan 30, 2018)

are you feeding them that every time you water?


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## bobqp (Feb 2, 2018)

Plants grown outdoors using power feed. This problem showed up 10 days ago. All new growth is yellow white leaves that die. All old main tips are doing the same. Started spraying trace elements mix folar feed the last 7 days trying to save them. Any help or info would be greatly apriecated .


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## CB7guy (Feb 9, 2018)

bobqp said:


> View attachment 4083488 View attachment 4083489 View attachment 4083488 View attachment 4083489 Plants grown outdoors using power feed. This problem showed up 10 days ago. All new growth is yellow white leaves that die. All old main tips are doing the same. Started spraying trace elements mix folar feed the last 7 days trying to save them. Any help or info would be greatly apriecated .


http://www.growweedeasy.com/iron-deficiency-cannabis hope this helps


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## Terrapin2 (Feb 9, 2018)

any insight on what's causing this fading of healthy green to lighter green? 
new growth come and in healthy green then starts to fade.


----------



## bobqp (Feb 9, 2018)

CB7guy said:


> http://www.growweedeasy.com/iron-deficiency-cannabis hope this helps


Thanks a lot mate. That's exactly what it is . cheers for doing that for me .


----------



## bobqp (Feb 9, 2018)

Terrapin2 said:


> any insight on what's causing this fading of healthy green to lighter green?
> new growth come and in healthy green then starts to fade.
> 
> View attachment 4087205


Maybe try spraying trace elements on it.


----------



## Roger A. Shrubber (Feb 9, 2018)

Terrapin2 said:


> any insight on what's causing this fading of healthy green to lighter green?
> new growth come and in healthy green then starts to fade.
> 
> View attachment 4087205


at first glance i'd say mag deficiency, but that could also be light burn. you say new growth comes in healthy then fades? older growth isn't fading? i'd lean more toward light burn


----------



## Go go n chill (Feb 10, 2018)

Terrapin2 said:


> any insight on what's causing this fading of healthy green to lighter green?
> new growth come and in healthy green then starts to fade.
> 
> View attachment 4087205


Hey bro I’m new to growing but your girl looks light all over. I would give her a general dose of food at the next watering. But she looks good


----------



## Terrapin2 (Feb 10, 2018)

i use RO, straight coco.
i feel like it's mag just not sure. 

i was thinking about giving it more cal/mag?


----------



## Terrapin2 (Feb 10, 2018)

Roger A. Shrubber said:


> at first glance i'd say mag deficiency, but that could also be light burn. you say new growth comes in healthy then fades? older growth isn't fading? i'd lean more toward light burn


i have my t5 on half strength, can't be burn.


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## Go go n chill (Feb 10, 2018)

Terrapin2 said:


> i use RO, straight coco.
> i feel like it's mag just not sure.
> 
> i was thinking about giving it more cal/mag?


Ya, I would do that along with a bit more N, just my opinion..... I’m no pro


----------



## Go go n chill (Feb 10, 2018)

Terrapin2 said:


> i use RO, straight coco.
> i feel like it's mag just not sure.
> 
> i was thinking about giving it more cal/mag?


 That’s what I would do along with giving it a little bit more food


----------



## CB7guy (Feb 11, 2018)

think mag,,starts in lower leaves ,, the veins remains green while the rest of the leaf turns yellow, exhibiting chlorosis, the leaves eventually curl and then die,,,the edges of the affected leaves feel dry and crispy,, as it continues it moves from the lower to middle to upper eventually growing shoots change from pale green to white


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Feb 11, 2018)

he said it was new growth, not old growth, which is what makes me hesitate to just say Mag


----------



## CB7guy (Feb 11, 2018)

t


Roger A. Shrubber said:


> he said it was new growth, not old growth, which is what makes me hesitate to just say Mag


the top of the plant is "usually" new growth,,,,,so yeah


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## CB7guy (Feb 11, 2018)

and this info is coming from the growers hand book,, has pretty pictures and all


----------



## Go go n chill (Feb 11, 2018)

Cal/mag and food, is she in a big enough pot. Root bound does weird shit


----------



## Jamie cole (Feb 15, 2018)

View attachment 4090008View attachment 4090009View attachment 4090010View attachment 4090011 growing for 1st time and thought id start 60"x60"x80" secret jardin grow tent with one p600 LED grow light and starting with x4 dinafem moby dick xxl in 12 litre pots using canna terra professional mix and bio bizz grow/bloom nutes its week 6 and starting to see some deficiency's and toxicity's can anybody help me please to identify them please thanks  i know the lasst picture of the last plant was because it was given to much N during veg all of the plants have got purple stems and and the first one has got yellowing starting from the top going to the bottom


----------



## Go go n chill (Feb 15, 2018)

Jamie cole said:


> View attachment 4090008View attachment 4090009View attachment 4090010View attachment 4090011 growing for 1st time and thought id start 60"x60"x80" secret jardin grow tent with one p600 LED grow light and starting with x4 dinafem moby dick xxl in 12 litre pots using canna terra professional mix and bio bizz grow/bloom nutes its week 6 and starting to see some deficiency's and toxicity's can anybody help me please to identify them please thanks  i know the lasst picture of the last plant was because it was given to much N during veg all of the plants have got purple stems and and the first one has got yellowing starting from the top going to the bottom


Auto?


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## Go go n chill (Feb 15, 2018)

Calibrate your ph meter then check the PH. There are several things going on
https://www.google.com/search?q=cannabis+deficiency+poster&client=safari&hl=en-us&prmd=isnv&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjJpPjk2KjZAhWC8YMKHTLaAU0Q_AUIESgB&biw=375&bih=512#imgrc=5HTZZbHMjw4C0M:


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## Go go n chill (Feb 15, 2018)

Stick to the basics, you’ll get through it.


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## Go go n chill (Feb 15, 2018)

Week6 of flower, could be kinda normal


----------



## FerrisBueller (Feb 17, 2018)

A picture says 1,000 words...so they say.

This is a first run of Grease Monkey, I obtained it via clone from a reputable source here in Portland Oregon. It is giving me issues, issues that have have never encountered before. The pictures will explain all details of growing conditions. I am getting floating algae in my filters and on air-stones. The roots have remained white for the time being. I use Current Cultures complete line including UC Roots. Also included in my feeding program is a product called Mycostop. I have been using these products since they were introduced some years back. At that time, they were being manufactured by Clean Grow, whom I highly recommend. The issue seems to be a fungi infection in the root zone, but again, I am not 100%. I am getting what looks like a combination of deficiencies like magnesium, calcium and a hint of potassium. I have dealt with rot issues (pythium) before, this is not it. Absolutely no light penetrating into the nutrient solution and temperatures are always consistently at target. The only thing I can think of is the introduction of mold spores via the air-pumps. There are two AL-80s and one AL-20 constantly oxygenating the nutrient solution.

Like I said, this is a first run with this particular genome type. I have experience with the lineage but am not seeing any positive response to anything that has worked on those strains in the past. I have a friend that works at OHSU as a microbiologist, she tells me the cyanobacteria cannot survive with absolutely no light. So I have marked that off of the list of possibilities. Any ideas of how to positively identify the substance and how to treat it, would be much appreciated. I cannot introduce beneficial bacteria that cannot sustain at 2ppm of Hypochlorous Acid, as I use UC Roots. I have questions about the proper strength of Physan 20 in RDWC. Does it work as described by the sales reps?

Please, pummel me with questions and answers!


----------



## FerrisBueller (Feb 17, 2018)

More photos. There are three Bluelab Guardians and a PH controller connected to the system. Two of the guardians monitor the root zones at either end of the system and the ere is one monitoring the control bucket. The incoming water goes through a tall boy and a 1200gpd UV sanitizer.


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## FerrisBueller (Feb 17, 2018)

Between every cycle, we first run a high concentration of Physan 20, run for 2 hours. We drain and rinse, then fill with a high concentration of HClO. Again, we drain and rinse. The systems are then completely broken down and scrubbed. Once again rinsed with HClO. The systems are then assembled and filled with fresh nutrient solution.


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## raggyb (Feb 18, 2018)

is this your fucking basement? WOW!


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## Jamie cole (Feb 18, 2018)

yeah there auto and the ph has always been at 6.5 isnt that normal ? and im at week six from seed ?


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## FerrisBueller (Feb 18, 2018)

It is a converted three car garage. There is another flower room of the same dimensions and a veg room attached. Here are some photos of the room next to the one pictured above. The same exact setup.


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## Go go n chill (Feb 18, 2018)

Gotta say, that’s a bunch of work not to be selling it, I thought I read it was not for profit? Wow that’s great if you grow and give!!!


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## raggyb (Feb 18, 2018)

FerrisBueller said:


> A picture says 1,000 words...so they say.
> 
> This is a first run of Grease Monkey, I obtained it via clone from a reputable source here in Portland Oregon. It is giving me issues, issues that have have never encountered before. The pictures will explain all details of growing conditions. I am getting floating algae in my filters and on air-stones. The roots have remained white for the time being. I use Current Cultures complete line including UC Roots. Also included in my feeding program is a product called Mycostop. I have been using these products since they were introduced some years back. At that time, they were being manufactured by Clean Grow, whom I highly recommend. The issue seems to be a fungi infection in the root zone, but again, I am not 100%. I am getting what looks like a combination of deficiencies like magnesium, calcium and a hint of potassium. I have dealt with rot issues (pythium) before, this is not it. Absolutely no light penetrating into the nutrient solution and temperatures are always consistently at target. The only thing I can think of is the introduction of mold spores via the air-pumps. There are two AL-80s and one AL-20 constantly oxygenating the nutrient solution.
> 
> ...


Now that I've got over the amazingness of the setup I'll ask could it be Phosphorus deficiency? Not that I would know, I just looked at picture chart and that is the closest match to my eyes.

Are the microscope pictures supposed to be of fungi? That confused me.


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## FerrisBueller (Feb 18, 2018)

Yes, I took a sample of the substance from one of my inline filters. I know it's deficient, I just dont quite know this strain yet. Also, I need to find the cause. Thanks for the input!


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## growfreedom (Feb 18, 2018)

Have several leaves that did this overnight on different plants. Any idea what it might be. Using green leaf nutrients mega crop in DWC. PH is 5.8 just set it last night before the leaves did this.


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Feb 18, 2018)

looks like major ph shift damage, don't know what else does that, that quick


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## growfreedom (Feb 18, 2018)

Ok. My ph was about 6.5 yesterday so I set it to 5.8. Don' know why it climbed so much. Seems like a small shift. Would that be enough?


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Feb 18, 2018)

are you in veg or flower? check your roots, if they look healthy, i'd say its probably just from rapid growth. you may just have to check your res daily for a while.


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## yoshisisland (Feb 18, 2018)

Roger A. Shrubber said:


> looks like major ph shift damage, don't know what else does that, that quick


if i have a 2 lower leaves that have some damage similar to that should i cut them off or let them try and recover?


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## growfreedom (Feb 19, 2018)

I don' think leaves recover. I usually remove them to keep them from being a drain on the plant. I'm in veg but they're auto and just beginning to stretch. Roots are healthy and they looked much better today after work.


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## Breedingbull (Mar 13, 2018)

Can anyone help...cob lights about 21 inch’s away full blast about 900 Watts in a 4x4 sunshine advanced number 4 mix 3 gallon pot humbolt nutrients ph 6.3area have been feeding about 50% of charts but this has happened on a few plants and wanna get to the bottom of this because I never experienced this until I switched to cobs I’m also a newbie I asked a few people and no one really can give me a answer that makes sense besides I’m underfeeding somehow but I’m most certainly feeding them something


----------



## CookieKush (Mar 13, 2018)

Breedingbull said:


> Can anyone help...cob lights about 21 inch’s away full blast about 900 Watts in a 4x4 sunshine advanced number 4 mix 3 gallon pot humbolt nutrients ph 6.3area have been feeding about 50% of charts but this has happened on a few plants and wanna get to the bottom of this because I never experienced this until I switched to cobs I’m also a newbie I asked a few people and no one really can give me a answer that makes sense besides I’m underfeeding somehow but I’m most certainly feeding them something


Two words: Light burn

Raise your COB to 30 inches dude or you'll continue to BBQ your girls.


----------



## Og grumble (Mar 13, 2018)

Any help is greatly appreciated. Almost positive this is nute burn tho. Just bad on this leaf for some reason. A few other leaves have the signature nute burn on the very tip but this one has it bad. I think its spreading too. Should i cut it off? Im using kind soil (hot soil) with no added nutes. This happened a few days after transplanting to the hot soil which is why im sure its nute burn. Sorry for my shitty camera. The first pic is the bad leaf the others are just the tips.


----------



## CookieKush (Mar 13, 2018)

Og grumble said:


> Any help is greatly appreciated. Almost positive this is nute burn tho. Just bad on this leaf for some reason. A few other leaves have the signature nute burn on the very tip but this one has it bad. I think its spreading too. Should i cut it off? Im using kind soil (hot soil) with no added nutes. This happened a few days after transplanting to the hot soil which is why im sure its nute burn. Sorry for my shitty camera. The first pic is the bad leaf the others are just the tips.


100% soils too hot.. this is what happened to me the other week and I had to make the decision to kill it and start with coco coir and fresh beans.


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## Og grumble (Mar 13, 2018)

CookieKush said:


> 100% soils too hot.. this is what happened to me the other week and I had to make the decision to kill it and start with coco coir and fresh beans.


Thats kinda what i figured. Thanks. The people at kind soil sorta make it known that if you transplant too early you'll get burned, but they say they'll grow into it just fine. I thought they were old enough but i guess not... The kind soil is only in the bottom 1/3 of the pot and the top is just happy frog so im gonna ride it out for a little while and see if they grow into the kind soil like they say.


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## Og grumble (Mar 13, 2018)

CookieKush said:


> 100% soils too hot.. this is what happened to me the other week and I had to make the decision to kill it and start with coco coir and fresh beans.


You think that dying leaf is an invitation for pests and problems? Like should i cut it off?


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## Tim1987 (Mar 13, 2018)

I wouldnt right now!
That leaf is giving you a realllly good indication of whats going on at your roots!
Just wait for improvement. You dont wanna remove a shit leaf and let your problem spread.
Leave it alone until your plant's better.
Good luck 
Tim


----------



## Og grumble (Mar 13, 2018)

Tim1987 said:


> I wouldnt right now!
> That leaf is giving you a realllly good indication of whats going on at your roots!
> Just wait for improvement. You dont wanna remove a shit leaf and let your problem spread.
> Leave it alone until your plant's better.
> ...


Makes sense. Thanks.


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## Bleineke (Mar 20, 2018)

Anyone know why the edges of these leaves are folding up


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## puffinggee (Mar 21, 2018)

Glad to read something very informative, like it's from a botanist


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## Julmamuna (Mar 25, 2018)

Anyone know how I should proceed? I gave my plants nutes first time about week ago, have given them twice now also I have been watering them for a month with about 7,5pH water, with nutes it dropped to about 6.0pH. Many plants seem to be sick now. Lower leaves are dying overnight. Should I flush them? Should I just keep giving them only water? Is it possible to have potassium deficiency and nitrogen toxicity at same time? Got a nasty claw going here and there too...


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## Tim1987 (Mar 25, 2018)

Julmamuna said:


> Anyone know how I should proceed? I gave my plants nutes first time about week ago, have given them twice now also I have been watering them for a month with about 7,5pH water, with nutes it dropped to about 6.0pH. Many plants seem to be sick now. Lower leaves are dying overnight. Should I flush them? Should I just keep giving them only water? Is it possible to have potassium deficiency and nitrogen toxicity at same time? Got a nasty claw going here and there too...


Have you checked for rot?
Is your medium salty?
If plants, are in a small pot. They can grow tall, and skinny.
If they run out of pot space, they can droop too. Because of, lack of oxygen.
How good is your drainage?

Sorry, it could be a few things. These are good places to start.
Good luck.


----------



## Julmamuna (Mar 25, 2018)

I forgot to mention I took the illest looking plant and checked roots ("outside" of the soil") it wasn't rootbound, roots i saw seemed to be healthy. Drainage seems to be good as I have perlite on bottom of container which I covered with some kind of material which lets water run but soil doesnt get through it, cant remember what it is in english and everytime I water my plants i water untill I see 10-20% runoff water. I have to do some research about salty soil, I'm not familiar with that. Could it be that I didn't have pH testing kit with me earlier this grow and I have been watering them with almost 8pH water and now dropped it instantly to about 6pH? 
Cheers


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## Tim1987 (Mar 25, 2018)

Does the material in the pot, on top of the perlite, catch silt, and sediment?? Something to consider.
Im inclined to think, you're overfeeding.
If the material is catching, salts too..........


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## Julmamuna (Mar 25, 2018)

Yeah that might be it, I never saw anyone use that stuff with perlite on bottom of container, I just thought it would be a good idea to separate them so soil cant block drainage from my pot. Would you recommend flushing my plants? Or just keep 
watering like I have?


----------



## Tim1987 (Mar 25, 2018)

Julmamuna said:


> Yeah that might be it, I never saw anyone use that stuff with perlite on bottom of container, I just thought it would be a good idea to separate them so soil cant block drainage from my pot. Would you recommend flushing my plants? Or just keep
> watering like I have?


I cant say TBH.
I havnt used, the material before.
I dont think, some water would hurt, though. Should disolve salts. It'l just take time. Days.
Be safe. Go slow.
Good luck


----------



## Julmamuna (Mar 25, 2018)

Thanks here too, I'm so tired I didin't realise you are helping on two threads


----------



## Tim1987 (Mar 25, 2018)

Lolz
Oh yeah 
I didn't notice either


----------



## Og grumble (Mar 26, 2018)

Tim1987 said:


> Lolz
> Oh yeah
> I didn't notice either


You helped me on 2 different threads one time too hahaha


----------



## Tim1987 (Mar 26, 2018)

Og grumble said:


> You helped me on 2 different threads one time too hahaha


Lol 
It'll come around 
Thats what helping is all about.


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## CookieKush (Mar 26, 2018)

Tim1987 said:


> Lol
> It'll come around
> Thats what helping is all about.


if people didnt share stuff we wouldn't get better, plus...karma is a bitch and those who dont help deserve all the bugs, nute issues... remember .. help those in need and treat those as you want to be treated.

Tim's helped me out on some questions privately as well, its all bout community


----------



## Og grumble (Mar 26, 2018)

CookieKush said:


> if people didnt share stuff we wouldn't get better, plus...karma is a bitch and those who dont help deserve all the bugs, nute issues... remember .. help those in need and treat those as you want to be treated.
> 
> Tim's helped me out on some questions privately as well, its all bout community


Word, man. People helping people. Thats the shit i like to see.


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## Tim1987 (Mar 26, 2018)

Its what friends are all about


----------



## [email protected] bud (Apr 4, 2018)

Good stuff... very good info for noobs to refer to... nice an simple


----------



## StUpId HiGh PaNdA (Apr 11, 2018)

what's the diagnosis on this plant in pic 1?. from reading and my guess, its cal mag def. is that right? the second pic is the 4 day younger sister with all same exposure conditions, light, nutes ect. thank in advance, ps didnt have time to read through the other 50 pages. thanks


----------



## mmjmon (Apr 11, 2018)

StUpId HiGh PaNdA said:


> what's the diagnosis on this plant in pic 1?. from reading and my guess, its cal mag def. is that right? the second pic is the 4 day younger sister with all same exposure conditions, light, nutes ect. thank in advance, ps didnt have time to read through the other 50 pages. thanks


what are you using nitrogen?


----------



## StUpId HiGh PaNdA (Apr 11, 2018)

mmjmon said:


> what are you using nitrogen?


im using Gh flora series 3prt base, gh flora blend, gh diamond nector, gh rapid root, gh floralicious plus, hydroguard and sensizym, all at 1/4 str of wk 2 veg of GH recirculating. they r really 5wk old, they were stuntes from the light and wind burn. roots are clean and white. are you implying nitrogen deficient?


edit: picture in this thread original post at not showing up, only 2 pics load and if I click "view attachment" the pic is no longer available.


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## Ncs0816 (May 12, 2018)

Anyone else herr use Fox Farm Soil and Nutrients[all nutrients]


----------



## jewsh808 (May 12, 2018)

Ncs0816 said:


> Anyone else herr use Fox Farm Soil and Nutrients[all nutrients]


Know tons of people that have used it and I occasionally use their marine Cuisine....All around awesome products and line


----------



## Ncs0816 (May 12, 2018)

jewsh808 said:


> Know tons of people that have used it and I occasionally use their marine Cuisine....All around awesome products and line



I' in FFOF and I use all the nutrients including the bushdoctor products

I currently feeding once a week,,,and watering in between....but I still burn the shit out of my plants 

I am in my 5th week of Flower and I' using only 1/3 of the recommended dosage


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## jewsh808 (May 12, 2018)

Ncs0816 said:


> I' in FFOF and I use all the nutrients including the bushdoctor products
> 
> I currently feeding once a week,,,and watering in between....but I still burn the shit out of my plants
> 
> I am in my 5th week of Flower and I' using only 1/3 of the recommended dosage


Personally Any burn ive ever dealt with was a runoff issue...for me it was not enough runoff, now I know...what medium are you in? Maybe take out a supplement here and there , rely more on the base


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## jewsh808 (May 12, 2018)

Also, using their FULL LINE might be too much..tune into your plants and see how they respond to just the base nutrients that FF offers


jewsh808 said:


> Personally Any burn ive ever dealt with was a runoff issue...for me it was not enough runoff, now I know...what medium are you in? Maybe take out a supplement here and there , rely more on the base


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## Ncs0816 (May 12, 2018)

jewsh808 said:


> Also, using their FULL LINE might be too much..tune into your plants and see how they respond to just the base nutrients that FF offers



That was my guess. Which sucks because they made it sound like all were needed for the best results.

I'e uses the trip in the past and have had decent results. This is the first time using everything.


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## jewsh808 (May 12, 2018)

Yes just dial in the base and see what they need from then on...


Ncs0816 said:


> That was my guess. Which sucks because they made it sound like all were needed for the best results.
> 
> I'e uses the trip in the past and have had decent results. This is the first time using everything.


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## Go go n chill (May 13, 2018)

Ncs0816 said:


> That was my guess. Which sucks because they made it sound like all were needed for the best results.
> 
> I'e uses the trip in the past and have had decent results. This is the first time using everything.


Local hydro shops always push EVERYTHING . Actually the plants need very little, we try to force feed way to often and over water a lot.


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## Jamie cole (May 13, 2018)

can anyone help me here and tell me what type of deficiency this is please ?


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## Roger A. Shrubber (May 13, 2018)

not a very good pic. at first glance i would say mag deficiency


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## Go go n chill (May 13, 2018)

Jamie cole said:


> can anyone help me here and tell me what type of deficiency this is please ?


All the normal questions are going to come from all of us. Ph? Watering? Fert schedule plant and pot size. All will help the fellow grower help you.


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## Go go n chill (May 13, 2018)

Roger A. Shrubber said:


> not a very good pic. at first glance i would say mag deficiency


Ditto The plant is a whole looks pretty healthy


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## Go go n chill (May 13, 2018)

Jamie cole said:


> can anyone help me here and tell me what type of deficiency this is please ?


Are you growing in soil


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## Jamie cole (May 13, 2018)

Go go n chill said:


> Are you growing in soil


yes i am growing in soil mate


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## Jamie cole (May 13, 2018)

and im in week 5 of flower and ph of 6.5 water once dry tend to be 3 days and i gave it 6ml of biobizz bloom and organic mollases


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## Xs121 (May 13, 2018)

Jamie cole said:


> and im in week 5 of flower and ph of 6.5 water once dry tend to be 3 days and i gave it 6ml of biobizz bloom and organic mollases


at ph 6.5 your plant may not be getting enough phosphorus and or magnesium. try bringing your ph closer to 7


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## Jamie cole (May 14, 2018)

Xs121 said:


> at ph 6.5 your plant may not be getting enough phosphorus and or magnesium. try bringing your ph closer to 7


i was thinking they got to much they started to burn now and twist at the end


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## Go go n chill (May 14, 2018)

Jamie cole said:


> i was thinking they got to much they started to burn now and twist at the end


I looked up biobizz They’re feeding schedule is much less than what you gave your plans if I read it correctly


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## Jamie cole (May 18, 2018)

Go go n chill said:


> I looked up biobizz They’re feeding schedule is much less than what you gave your plans if I read it correctly


yeah i think its like 4ml max ive been trying to flush as much as i can but it keeps on yellowing


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## Go go n chill (May 18, 2018)

Jamie cole said:


> yeah i think its like 4ml max ive been trying to flush as much as i can but it keeps on yellowing


Do you have a ppm meter? It would help with flushing, takes some of the guess work out of flushing. Don’t keep flushing, that’s called over watering. Flush once really good and come back on the last pouring of water with an all purpose nute and cal/mag. Make sure your pot is draining


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## Go go n chill (May 23, 2018)

@Jamie cole how is the plant


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## flexy123 (Jun 1, 2018)

People, and this includes myself, have spent A LOT of time identifying deficiencies, like it's the most important thing to know what exactly the deficiency is. IT IS NOT.

Why? Because in almost all cases, be it some type of def (or toxicity), regardless what it is, the solution is the same:

You will flush your plants with pHed water with the correct pH (soil: 6.5, hydro 5.5-6.0), and then give nutrients in the appropriate dosage. What *exact* deficiency it is/was is not even that important. (The other issue is, many deficiencies come in a combo, so the symptoms can include signs of all sorts of deficiencies and are not always that clear, even for me as an "experienced" grower.)

Most deficiencies/toxicities come from incorrect pH anyway. (Eg. watering with non pH-ed water, or overfeeding which accumulates salts in the soil so that the pH is off after some time, leading to deficiencies).

Flush --> (to correct your soil's pH) ---> water/feed with correct pH ---> 99% of all problems are solved.


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## Go go n chill (Jun 1, 2018)

flexy123 said:


> People, and this includes myself, have spent A LOT of time identifying deficiencies, like it's the most important thing to know what exactly the deficiency is. IT IS NOT.
> 
> Why? Because in almost all cases, be it some type of def (or toxicity), regardless what it is, the solution is the same:
> 
> ...


Yep


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## gotty (Jun 8, 2018)

Very purple pink...doubt it's strain more problem...any suggestions guys?


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## gotty (Jun 8, 2018)

gotty said:


> Very purple pink...doubt it's strain more problem...any suggestions guys?


Run off just in range 6.4 but has been out so flushed 2x and only just in range..5.5-6.5


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## QuikWay (Jun 22, 2018)

def caused by abundance of p/k...
P and or K abundance causes stretch, too? or something. 
2284 is heat damage(some abundance) vs the same abundance.

just wanted to share my pictures and let everyone know this was caused by me adding too much p/k thinking it needed more following that chart (i started beastie blooms too soon i think, and added more as well).. after adding more the damage increased faster i was able to notice a difference after hours instead of days, i flushed and everything is fine.


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## Kent Sage (Jun 23, 2018)

This may help...? 



neved said:


> ....
> I grow hydro
> And I keep ph level on 5.8 but this prb (cal/mag def) happen...
> Before I play with my ph range in 5.8-6.0 and they were better I thought ....
> U can c In your chart that Ca absorb is different at all by Mag absorb....!?!?!?WHy ?


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Jun 23, 2018)

Kent Sage said:


> View attachment 4155060
> This may help...?


 that chart is for soil, many people grow in water, which needs to be 5.8ish, coco coir, which likes it to be around 6.1, or peat mix, which likes about 6.3....


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Jun 23, 2018)

neved said:


> ....
> I grow hydro
> And I keep ph level on 5.8 but this prb (cal/mag def) happen...
> Before I play with my ph range in 5.8-6.0 and they were better I thought ....
> U can c In your chart that Ca absorb is different at all by Mag absorb....!?!?!?WHy ?


it is a good idea to let your ph swing up from 5.8 to maybe 6.3, then correct it back down to 5.8, for exactly the reason you're saying, to prevent lockout of minerals that need different ph ranges.


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## Kent Sage (Jun 23, 2018)

Roger A. Shrubber said:


> that chart is for soil, many people grow in water, which needs to be 5.8ish, coco coir, which likes it to be around 6.1, or peat mix, which likes about 6.3....


I knew what medium, Roger .
The other chart is for soil lol


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## neved (Jun 23, 2018)

Absolutely love to see my thread goin up after my first indoor grow by 2011.
At that point i was breeding good genetics (purest afghani persiam kush ) even you can smell hell by the start vegging never seem bigger leafs likes
So this is my nutrients test clothet alwyas contributing to find easiest and more effective nuts then go big


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## neved (Jun 23, 2018)

QuikWay said:


> def caused by abundance of p/k...
> P and or K abundance causes stretch, too? or something.
> 2284 is heat damage(some abundance) vs the same abundance.
> 
> just wanted to share my pictures and let everyone know this was caused by me adding too much p/k thinking it needed more following that chart (i started beastie blooms too soon i think, and added more as well).. after adding more the damage increased faster i was able to notice a difference after hours instead of days, i flushed and everything is fine.


This is why if you researching find out less growers used any booster on flowering stage except light foliar (just for 2 weeks) .
You couldn’t do bloom booster more than 2-3 times and it cause absulutly light burn .
I have to day for water the best is set up by 5.5/5.6 then up to 6.2 then correct it .
Really appreciate your post


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## Kent Sage (Jun 24, 2018)

^imo
All those charts are bs because they leave out temperature which is proportional in some ways to pH due to ionization, which increases during aeration.. You do bubble rite.?
Ive had some systems down to 5.3 with no lockout and were super healthy plants. And others with deficiency at wht most consider optimum 5.5-6.3...
Considering my meter is inexpensive lol
Maybe i shuld switch to a 10-4-4 wuld you roger that ?


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## Grow for fun only (Jun 25, 2018)

awesome post here buddy, useful for growing


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## ElChoppo (Jul 3, 2018)

What up

Just wanted some advice as to what could be causing the yellowing on the fan leaves? Its mainly from two of seven plants. First week of flower amd ive been using cyco bloom at half strength with gh calmag, plus some molasses and silica. Ppms are about 7-800 going in ph within 5.5-5.8 as directed by cyco. However ppms in runoff are about 500.

All plants are in coco however two at the back were transplanted from canna terra. I get the yellow leaves with the burnt tips are nute burns but wondering whats causing the yellowing from the middle? The veins suggest some type of chlorosis and my first guess is iron? Let me know your thoughts as this is my first grow. Rh is in 60s atm and temps range from 23-28 celsius.


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## Kent Sage (Jul 4, 2018)

Ohh you were hoping for insider tips to help you impress your girls... 

Just leave the lights on 24\7 they will be impressed brobee

HAPPY FOURTH OF JULY !!!


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## ElChoppo (Jul 4, 2018)

Kent Sage said:


> Ohh you were hoping for insider tips to help you impress your girls...
> 
> Just leave the lights on 24\7 they will be impressed brobee
> 
> HAPPY FOURTH OF JULY !!!


Theyre in flower


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## Grow for fun only (Jul 5, 2018)

Kent Sage said:


> Ohh you were hoping for insider tips to help you impress your girls...
> 
> Just leave the lights on 24\7 they will be impressed brobee
> 
> HAPPY FOURTH OF JULY !!!


happy July 4 buddy i use my marshydro 600 led keep 18/6 sometimes 20/4, never do 24/7, but hope to know any difference there?


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## Kent Sage (Jul 5, 2018)

Marshydro 600 nice choice 
I have good results vegging that way 20/4 sounds more realistic lol 


ElChoppo said:


> What up
> 
> Just wanted some advice as to what could be causing the yellowing on the fan leaves? Its mainly from two of seven plants. First week of flower amd ive been using cyco bloom at half strength with gh calmag, plus some molasses and silica. Ppms are about 7-800 going in ph within 5.5-5.8 as directed by cyco. However ppms in runoff are about 500.
> 
> All plants are in coco however two at the back were transplanted from canna terra. I get the yellow leaves with the burnt tips are nute burns but wondering whats causing the yellowing from the middle? The veins suggest some type of chlorosis and my first guess is iron? Let me know your thoughts as this is my first grow. Rh is in 60s atm and temps range from 23-28 celsius.


Its hard to say for sure it without the ratio of NPK used it may and usually is combinations of things mixed with pH fluctuations, magnesium defs usually cause yellow margins between veins as does potassium, but growth would not be as thick if it were not available, if they are setting up for flowering it could have used up either of the above nutes quicker than usual and cause a def.

If the yellowing started at the base and moved to the tips it could be sulphur def. 

Best of luck, nice herb !!


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## ElChoppo (Jul 5, 2018)

Kent Sage said:


> Marshydro 600 nice choice
> I have good results vegging that way 20/4 sounds more realistic lol
> 
> 
> ...


Yeah the stretching would have caused it, ill up the cal mag, its definitely getting enough k as ive been feeding everyday. Just flushed with bloom nutes and calmag yesterday and i think its getting better. Thanks.


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## Grow for fun only (Jul 6, 2018)

Kent Sage said:


> Marshydro 600 nice choice
> I have good results vegging that way 20/4 sounds more realistic lol
> 
> 
> ...


that's good buddy and thx for sharign the growing tips, you are experienced for the growing, i am very new., but i heard that use sulphur will damage the light. you use the sulphur during the plants growing ?

have you used other lights from marshydro? like the cob, i see the forum see many guys do diy cob light, do you think it's safe to diy a light ? 
https://www.mars-hydro.com/media/catalog/product/cache/2/small_image/300x/17f82f742ffe127f42dca9de82fb58b1/2/_/2_18_2.jpg


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## Grow for fun only (Jul 6, 2018)

ElChoppo said:


> Yeah the stretching would have caused it, ill up the cal mag, its definitely getting enough k as ive been feeding everyday. Just flushed with bloom nutes and calmag yesterday and i think its getting better. Thanks.


Thanks buddy guys are helpful


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## Srirachi (Jul 6, 2018)

I've never been able to find a copy of the plant abuse chart that was of a decent resolution- this thread is awesome. Thanks to everyone posting info in it. I recently discovered that one of my plants was starved for N during flowering. It had all the symptoms of low N but being in flowering, I suspected lockout. The solution turned out to be a couple shots of veg stage ferts. I'm not sure why this plant is such a nitrogen slut, but if I skip the vegging nutes for a single watering, the plant shows it.

The point of the story above is that I learned to trust what the plant is telling you, not what makes sense. Learning to watch closely so you can determine if something starts at new or old growth, or at the tips vs veins, etc. is key. Note any changes, including the progression, and then as OP said way back at the front, make reasonable changes. Know this info, do not freak out and overdo whatever corrective action is needed, and trust the plant.


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## Grow for fun only (Jul 8, 2018)

I lack of grow experience and also the knowledge, i recently check on this page https://www.growweedeasy.com/
Also i found marshydro site their grow tips for led grow light， dont know if there is any better explanation about led grow light tips for growing. 
https://www.mars-hydro.com/led-grow-light/mars-ii-led-grow-light/buy-mars-ii-400-led-growing-light-good-for-medical-plants-in-door-hydroponic-seeding-growth-flowering-for-sale

*1.How do I determine the right light for my grow area?*

Measure the floor space. Multiply the length times the width and this will give you the square footage. You should be able to get decent results with 30-50 actual watts of power per square foot.

*2.For larger areas should I go with a single large panel or multiple medium to small lights?*

Using multiple lights allows you to better distribute the intense light in more areas of the grow space instead of having all of the higher intensity light concentrated in only one area while the outer edges never receive intense light.

*3.Recommended Hanging Distance Above Plants*

Seedling stage: 20''~28‘’ Veg Stage: 16''~20‘’ ;Flowering Stage: 10''~16‘’

*4.Here are more tips for grow under our light:*

Growth stage, turn Growth switch on. Bloom stage, turn Growth and Bloom switches on.

*5.Recommended Lighting Time*

Veg: 18/6(on/off) or 20/4(on/off) Flower: 12/12(on/off)

*6.Recommended Growing Conditions*

The rate of photosynthesis and transpiration are directly affected by temperature, humidity and airflow.

The perfect temperature and humidity for your plants are found between 75°-85°F and 50% - 70% humidity, with plenty of airflow to replenish CO2. PH is 6-6.5. You may add more calcium and magnesium than normally needed.

*7.Please Note*

The light is not water-proof, so do not use it under water environment.

Light may be too strong, please wear your sunglasses when looking at it.

Some leds seem dim. They are IR. Human eye can not see IR very clearly, but you can wear sunglasses to check.


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## postdrop (Jul 9, 2018)

Open to any opinions. Young (just about 3 weeks since germination). Probably over nuted a little (using Jack's at 1/4 strength), probably overwatered. Still in Solo Cups. In soil (Ocean Forest), tap water (aged a few days_.) Am I overthinking shit?View attachment 4161343


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## Grow for fun only (Jul 10, 2018)

postdrop said:


> Open to any opinions. Young (just about 3 weeks since germination). Probably over nuted a little (using Jack's at 1/4 strength), probably overwatered. Still in Solo Cups. In soil (Ocean Forest), tap water (aged a few days_.) Am I overthinking shit?View attachment 4161343


Hey buddy,What the lamp you use ? led or hps ? if it's led grow light, you need less water and nutrients. check the link i found tips for you.

*6.Recommended Growing Conditions*

The rate of photosynthesis and transpiration are directly affected by temperature, humidity and airflow.

The perfect temperature and humidity for your plants are found between 75°-85°F and 50% - 70% humidity, with plenty of airflow to replenish CO2. PH is 6-6.5. You may add more calcium and magnesium than normally needed.

https://www.mars-hydro.com/led-grow-light/mars-eco-led-grow-light/buy-mars-eco-300w-new-tech-smd-high-power-full-spectrum-led-grow-light-replace-classical-mars-hydro-300w-less-heat-quiet-good-for-beginner-for-sale


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## Grow for fun only (Jul 10, 2018)

Hey buddyI found the Giveaway activity from the ledgrowlightsdepot, say they will send a mars ii 400 led grow light, you check the link they offer and good luck to you guys : tinyurl.com/mars400


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## Kent Sage (Aug 3, 2018)

Grow for fun only said:


> that's good buddy and thx for sharign the growing tips, you are experienced for the growing, i am very new., but i heard that use sulphur will damage the light. you use the sulphur during the plants growing ?
> 
> have you used other lights from marshydro? like the cob, i see the forum see many guys do diy cob light, do you think it's safe to diy a light ?
> https://www.mars-hydro.com/media/catalog/product/cache/2/small_image/300x/17f82f742ffe127f42dca9de82fb58b1/2/_/2_18_2.jpg


A lot of growers I have seen are getting great result from cobs with LEDs and paying less to run them. I am considering buys a few for xtra flower power lol 

I do use sulphur traces in the soil as well as a pesticide with pyrethrins and sulphur mix. Sulphur helps with the respiratory system of the plants so I find that a foliar feed with it works well. Found some on the market
Interesting fact: pyrethrins attack the nervous system of the insects, when used as a foliar feed they will try to eat the leave and freeze right to the leaf.
They are found in nature within chrysanthemums if your looking for a bug repelling companion plant 

DIY lights can be less expensive, but without a qualified electrician it could be risky, with all electrical components make sure to check polarity and cover all exposed leads. Most of the time lights with chipsets a less expensive to run imho of course


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## Grow for fun only (Aug 5, 2018)

Hey buddy, Sulphur is a reason to get the light damaged gradually ,cuz Fe + S = FeS  Plus Sulphur makes the health problem like cancer if use it in the room very often or people have the Sulphured buds for long time. so suggest get it away earlier even it help the good yields


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## Bilbo420 (Aug 18, 2018)

BeefSteak said:


> I find it gives little consideration to most using a two part fertilizer where simply adding more A or B so to say will cure most problems. Most two part fertilizers are pretty complete for the competent grower and it should be easy to work out your Cal/Mag levels too so i find a lot of this merely confuses the grower more over just learning to use his ferts properly and checking Cal/Mag levels.
> 
> Some ask whats this deficiency and the answer is not necessary Phosphorous or Calcium over add more A or B to vary the nutrient levels. Lots of blooms or B dont contain enough nutrients to make it complete hence why most nutrient companies advise on their chart to run veg ferts through the flowering but simply upping the bloom ferts till the P/K is higher than the N. Without the grow yer you probably are Cal or Mag deficient not to mention the abuse of Phosphorous and Potassium. Thanks


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## Bilbo420 (Aug 18, 2018)

your Right..


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## BluRidgeBaby (Aug 21, 2018)

Wonderful post. I read completely but i am still stuck.. if you get a chance would you read my post.. or just look at the pictures and give me a quick diagnoses if possible. I am not a noob but i just can't figure out whats going on. 
Thanks again for this guide i will definitely come back to it in the future. 

https://www.rollitup.org/t/name-this-deficiency-vote-inside.974300/


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## mariguanisimoo (Sep 2, 2018)

Hi, new here
I made the switch from GH to Jacks Hydro and Cal Nit on my last grow and I have been having issues
I have been feeding 600ppm, 360ppm jacks and 240ppm calnit (500scale)
Ph 6.0
Dwc
Strain white widow
Thanks


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## Bountykiller420 (Sep 28, 2018)

mariguanisimoo said:


> Hi, new here
> I made the switch from GH to Jacks Hydro and Cal Nit on my last grow and I have been having issues
> I have been feeding 600ppm, 360ppm jacks and 240ppm calnit (500scale)
> Ph 6.0
> ...


looks like a Mg deficiency, add epsom at 1gram per gallon


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## Lightning420 (Sep 30, 2018)

Awesome write up! So glad I found this
I’m having some issues myself with a new grow. I had received a few clones from a friend. It was late 8n the season and I currently don’t have a room set up, so I have been growing outdoors. It’s getting late and seasons are turning fast so I’m going to have t bring them in VERY soon. My plants are in cloth pots, medium is Coco Andy perlite (coco pearl brand). The last week I’ve had a caterpillar issue and I think I controlled that but now my leaves are changing colors and looks like Nuer burn! Any help??


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## Grow for fun only (Oct 8, 2018)

the third evil here


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## Grow for fun only (Oct 25, 2018)

wanna taste


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## john wishmyer (Oct 29, 2018)

hey lads, saw the symptoms of phosphorus abundance...new growth on my plant is finally coming in much clear no signs of a burn curl ect. im just wondering for future reference do you guys think my plant was lo locked out of those micros due to a abundance of P? pics included


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## Grow for fun only (Oct 30, 2018)

john wishmyer said:


> hey lads, saw the symptoms of phosphorus abundance...new growth on my plant is finally coming in much clear no signs of a burn curl ect. im just wondering for future reference do you guys think my plant was lo locked out of those micros due to a abundance of P? pics included


Seems it is from Nitrogen Toxicity or overwatered. Probably you accidentally give the plants give too much Nitrogen, especially in the flowering stage. This results in dark, shiny, clawing leaves. If so just reduce the Nitrogen your plant is getting! 

If overwatered-----Make sure that water drains freely from the bottom of your container (it’s recommended that you provide enough water to get at least 20% extra runoff every time you water your plants as long as your plants are drinking well).
You should see water coming out the bottom within a minute or two after watering. Then don’t water your plants again until the soil is dry up to your first knuckle.

Whenever a seedling has droopy leaves, it means that the roots are either not getting enough water (underwatered) or not getting enough oxygen (overwatered). This seedling has been chronically watered too often, preventing the roots from getting enough oxygen. As a result, the seedling has stayed small and mostly stopped growing.


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## john wishmyer (Oct 30, 2018)

Grow for fun only said:


> Seems it is from Nitrogen Toxicity or overwatered. Probably you accidentally give the plants give too much Nitrogen, especially in the flowering stage. This results in dark, shiny, clawing leaves. If so just reduce the Nitrogen your plant is getting!
> 
> If overwatered-----Make sure that water drains freely from the bottom of your container (it’s recommended that you provide enough water to get at least 20% extra runoff every time you water your plants as long as your plants are drinking well).
> You should see water coming out the bottom within a minute or two after watering. Then don’t water your plants again until the soil is dry up to your first knuckle.
> ...


Must have not included enough info ive noticed a trend on here that people tend to go straight to over watering yet if you tell them how little you water they go straight to undering watering..for the record i only water when my pot is extremely light as well as well as taking in how hot weather is. she in a 3 gallon smart pot. i decided to feed her P in anticipation for her flower cycle but i must have added a bit much because she showed nitrogen tox symptoms followed by mag def symptoms, ive read that too much phosphorus will lock out micros. i flushed with about 2 gallons of water and back to normal within a week. im going to assume that my statement was correct, which is that the excess P caused a lockout which was then corrected by a simple flush. Just wanted some input to see if my hypothesis was correct. if you look at my photos i have included, theres a couple fan leafs which exhibited these symptoms as well as a new clean ones with absolute no symptoms of excess or deficiency.


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## MyFloridaGreen360 (Nov 27, 2018)

An inadequacy of this causes yellowing of the clears out. its regular amid vegetative essentially on the grounds that the plant is utilizing it up similarly as quick as your placing it in. It likewise occurs amid blooming now and then on the grounds that most blossoming manures contain practically zero nitrogen, as this is certainly not a key supplement in that period of the vegetation's cycle.


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## Bblazzed530 (Nov 29, 2018)

can anyone tell me why this plants leaves are rolling


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## Grow for fun only (Nov 30, 2018)

This looks like the result of excessive heat, root problems (possibly from overwatering) and/or suffering from extreme humidity levels (such as very high or low humidity).


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## Grow for fun only (Nov 30, 2018)

When the serrated edges of marijuana leaves curls or tipped up like that, it’s often a sign of temperature stress, overwatering/root problems or extreme humidity levels. This plant was overwatered and living in high heat, which is what caused these symptoms.


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## Grow for fun only (Nov 30, 2018)

When the problem is low humidity, the leaf will also often fold in the middle, like a taco.

What’s your temperature in your grow area? Is there a hot spot around these plants from the grow light?

If this is happening to the plants which are closest to your grow light, that’s a hint that the problem may be temperature related.

If your light is simply too close, you can move the bulb further away from these plants and this issue may resolve itself. However, these leaves are showing symptoms of heat stress, without light stress (burning / spotting), so it’s more likely that the light is a good distance away and the heat just isn’t being controlled properly.

If plants are also droopy, it’s likely you’re dealing with watering or root problems.

When growing with hot HID lights, good ventillation and an exhaust fan will go a long way towards preventing all these problems. If the whole grow area is too hot with stagnant air, you will want to consider venting out all that extra heat.

Having good air movement, like a small fan in your grow tent blowing over the tops of your plants, can help prevent hot spots from forming directly under your grow lights.


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## Tas devil (Jan 5, 2019)

Hi guys .have a little problem with my outdoor near 4 months ols sunset sherbet.plant is a nice sise big stem and laterals but i have noticed in least couple weeks leaves about 4-5 nodes from the top have a light color at base of leaf and also im seeing leaves 2nd from the top going a light color between the veins and is progressing rather quickly..i gave them there feed on 27th which was aloe and kelp ferment with fulvic acid.and on the 2nd jan gave them a foliar spray of the aloe kelp ferment fertilizer as it has cal mag in it..soil in 2 places i checked ph was 6.5 6.6..im not seeing any improvement and am thinking maybe its manganese but only guessing plant has had 1 cup of oyster shell before planting etc with other amendments..i do have some professors nutrients go green which is a 4 in 1 nitrogen cal mag and iron im considering on giving it...i also have a plant in different area different soil which has the same def but both plants beside it are fine and one is different strain.but both are sunset sherbet...i just dont know what to give them.should i try the go green 4 in 1..last pic is another plant thats more advanced ..


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## Go go n chill (Jan 5, 2019)

Looked for bugs? Just guessing


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## Tas devil (Jan 5, 2019)

Yes but only have a 60x loupe to view.dr who mention it is russet mites...i took leaves to hydro store hoping the dude i knew had a scope but never.had abit of a geezer and said theres no speckles white marks between veins and said i dont have mites..ive got a microscope ive ordered coming early nxt week and will b able to have a better look.we have tomatoe russet mites and the 2 spotted red mite here..sooner that scope rocks up i will b able to cross bugs out i hope...


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## Go go n chill (Jan 5, 2019)

Tas devil said:


> Yes but only have a 60x loupe to view.dr who mention it is russet mites...i took leaves to hydro store hoping the dude i knew had a scope but never.had abit of a geezer and said theres no speckles white marks between veins and said i dont have mites..ive got a microscope ive ordered coming early nxt week and will b able to have a better look.we have tomatoe russet mites and the 2 spotted red mite here..sooner that scope rocks up i will b able to cross bugs out i hope...


I’m new and not the best at diagnostics, so I’ll take a back seat and watch, good luck


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## Tas devil (Jan 5, 2019)

Me neither buddy.grown a long time though and have hardly ever had any problems to make me want to learn more..just a guy who does little to soil over the years and keeping it basic..went againt the grain this year and first time purchasing seeds from store and using different amendments and got some problems to iron out. plants are a good size though.where i am i have to keep them under 1.5 high because of neighbours..they are 2 metres wide and bout knee high atm


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## Go go n chill (Jan 5, 2019)

Tas devil said:


> Me neither buddy.grown a long time though and have hardly ever had any problems to make me want to learn more..just a guy who does little to soil over the years and keeping it basic..went againt the grain this year and first time purchasing seeds from store and using different amendments and got some problems to iron out. plants are a good size though.where i am i have to keep them under 1.5 high because of neighbours..they are 2 metres wide and bout knee high atm


Neighbors aren’t aloud to see? Or trying to stay under radar? What about the smell?


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## Tas devil (Jan 5, 2019)

Under radar..yeah the myrcene coming out of them is real skunky..ive mostly grown bush plants unknown bag seed that only give off small amount of terpenes in flower.im still in veg atm.ive used dynamic lifter on grass around yard to mask it helps a little...id need a heap of lavender or something fragrant really .wind helps when it blows in certain direction


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## Go go n chill (Jan 5, 2019)

Tas devil said:


> Under radar..yeah the myrcene coming out of them is real skunky..ive mostly grown bush plants unknown bag seed that only give off small amount of terpenes in flower.im still in veg atm.ive used dynamic lifter on grass around yard to mask it helps a little...id need a heap of lavender or something fragrant really .wind helps when it blows in certain direction


I can have up to 18 plants blooming at one time.... 3 carbon filters going and oh lord at peek bloom you can still catch a whiff outside sometimes. Freaks my wife the he’ll out


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## Tas devil (Jan 5, 2019)

Hahahaha..same here bud..wife walks out back door a smells it instantly ..you should see the look i get lol...shes not impressed..specially when i said wait till they are flowering.im abit worried actually.some cars will drive past and get a whiff.gonna b abit paranoid in nxt 3 months..fingers crossed..


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Jan 5, 2019)

oyster shell takes a long time to break down, wouldn't hurt to get a bag of dolomite lime and top dress a good handful into the soil around your plant. releases a lot quicker than oyster shell, and also contains magnesium carbonate. oyster shell is good, but should be added to a bed at the end of the year before you plan to use it, so it has time to start breaking down


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Jan 5, 2019)

Tas devil said:


> Under radar..yeah the myrcene coming out of them is real skunky..ive mostly grown bush plants unknown bag seed that only give off small amount of terpenes in flower.im still in veg atm.ive used dynamic lifter on grass around yard to mask it helps a little...id need a heap of lavender or something fragrant really .wind helps when it blows in certain direction


jasmine, spearmint, rosemary, chrisanthemums, lavendar, and juniper all have strong but pleasant odors. plant as much of any of those as you can out in your yard, and it'll help a lot covering up the odor


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## Tas devil (Jan 5, 2019)

Thanks Rog..i didnt know that with the oyster shell..i was talking to a mate about dolomite and put it past him if i could put it on soil now and said no.it has to b done at start..if i did say put some down how much should i use and how much would it raise ph..the other plants ph i forgot to mention in that last pic of mu first post is 6.8 6.9 i have 3 other plants in same area looking great but one looks like its about to show same signs in pics on one branch...they should start budding by end of this month ,maybe even a little earlier...


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Jan 5, 2019)

it doesn't take a lot, maybe half a cup per plant, scattered under the foliage and then scratched into the soil before you water it in. your friend is right, it is better to do it at the beginning, but it will help now, any source of calcium and magnesium will help, as long as you don't over do it. even adding some calmag to your feed would help some.
as soon as you harvest your plants outside, get your spot ready for next time. add your amendments then and let them cook till you're ready to use the bed again. your ph will be closer to right to begin with, and you shouldn't have any big deficiencies to deal with next time around


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Jan 5, 2019)

i grow inside now, because my longtime spot got sold to property developers.
when i was growing outside, i would come back a week after harvest, pull up all my old roots, clean up the area, and amend my spots for next spring. i would premix alfalfa meal, kelp meal, dolomite lime, and blood meal, and add about 2 pounds of that mix the each of my 4 square foot "holes", and work it in good. then i would do the same thing about two weeks before i brought my seedling out to plant. never had any deficiencies, and only had to top dress a couple of times per grow


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## Go go n chill (Jan 5, 2019)

Roger A. Shrubber said:


> i grow inside now, because my longtime spot got sold to property developers.
> when i was growing outside, i would come back a week after harvest, pull up all my old roots, clean up the area, and amend my spots for next spring. i would premix alfalfa meal, kelp meal, dolomite lime, and blood meal, and add about 2 pounds of that mix the each of my 4 square foot "holes", and work it in good. then i would do the same thing about two weeks before i brought my seedling out to plant. never had any deficiencies, and only had to top dress a couple of times per grow


Sounds very much like my indoor mix! I trust you and your grow advice. I’m 11 weeks in with nothing but water


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## Tas devil (Jan 6, 2019)

Thanks Rog.i will def do it earlier nxt year..done holes bout 2 months before starting.ive overdone them not with too much but with everything lol...horse,cow,chook,mushroom.peat,oystershell,sulphur powder.kelp meal,bloodnbone,worm casting.compost.mycorrhizae etc.i think i missed a couple 

I gave them bat guarno in liquid form with 1/2 cup of coconut water added to 9 litres.im not quite sure but i think im seeing a faint improvement..i think theres more mg to ca ratio in that has a little iron .it say 250mg of potassium so im not sure how much that is.i sort of wasnt seeing any improvement with the cal mag 5:1 ratio in the aloe and kelp ferment im using ..


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## Daskalot (Jan 20, 2019)

Can someone suggest what this might be?


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## Go go n chill (Jan 20, 2019)

Tas devil said:


> Thanks Rog.i will def do it earlier nxt year..done holes bout 2 months before starting.ive overdone them not with too much but with everything lol...horse,cow,chook,mushroom.peat,oystershell,sulphur powder.kelp meal,bloodnbone,worm casting.compost.mycorrhizae etc.i think i missed a couple
> 
> I gave them bat guarno in liquid form with 1/2 cup of coconut water added to 9 litres.im not quite sure but i think im seeing a faint improvement..i think theres more mg to ca ratio in that has a little iron .it say 250mg of potassium so im not sure how much that is.i sort of wasnt seeing any improvement with the cal mag 5:1 ratio in the aloe and kelp ferment im using ..


Final verdict?


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## Tas devil (Jan 22, 2019)

_Still the same..its not affecting the plants growth .cal mag in 5:1 ratio does bugger all.i can only foliar it every 7 days etc but im certain thats not the problem..i have 2 plants showing same symptom and on another in completely different soil and ammendments..i have some chelated iron im thinking of using on one nxt..pics.plant under shade got a little heat stress through lack of water.last 2 pics are the deficient ones..   _


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## JSheeze (Jan 23, 2019)

Hey what's up, I was hoping I could get some opinions on what I got going on.

Day 35 from flip, *possible K deficiency?*...
 

Entire canopy...


*

DWC*

Tap water 265ppm. I fill 5gal bucket with tap water and add 1 scoop from small end of '*MaxiBloom*' (1 tsp I think) scoop provided with bag. Then add 6ml of *Liquid KoolBloom*. Then add 1ml of *Floralicious+*. Then add 15ml Root Farm pH down to 5.78 (start ~7.6). Then finish with a little hydroguard (Southern AG d747).

565ppm total

5.75 pH but drifts to 6.05 and settles around there.

*After I took these pics* I pumped buckets dry. Pumped 5gal fresh (265ppm) pH-ed water back in (9gal capacity) to rinse. Then pumped it backed out. Then pumped 9gal 565ppm nutrient regimen back in.

Are they just hungry? I backed the light off a bit because its centered around what *could be a hot-spot* but seems other spots should be affected considering their close proximity as well, but they seem fine, so it makes me think its possibly nutrient related.

EDIT: pretty sure city water comes from diverted natural (crystal clear) mountain creek, thus the high mineral count...


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## KonopCh (Jan 25, 2019)

Hey guys, I've got little problem around 3 weeks till finish. But it's going worse every day and really fast! I grow in coco, I'm adding 0.2-0.3 grams per liter of MKP and epsom salt with some extra calcium. And base nute of course.

All leaves (new and older) are lime green, despite I fed them full strenght. So I guess this is not N deficiency based on my previous grows and experience. Leaves are yellowing on the outside edges, center of leaves are lime green. Some leaves as you can see, have rusty spots on the edges, but not all.





I am thinking about S or K. But I think I am adding enough epsom salt (so enough S). Also, K at this stage I think it's well covered with MKP (also being in coco means a lot of K from it), I plan to use K sulphate maybe next week or 10 days.

Any opinions, please?


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## ANC (Jan 25, 2019)

Those things are locked out... I would just flush them a bit with water, then feed them whatever you were feeding in week 3 of flower, without all the extras.
Once you burn the roots like that, you are going to coast to the end. There is not really enough time left to turn things around.


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## KonopCh (Jan 25, 2019)

ANC said:


> Those things are locked out... I would just flush them a bit with water, then feed them whatever you were feeding in week 3 of flower, without all the extras.
> Once you burn the roots like that, you are going to coast to the end. There is not really enough time left to turn things around.


Are you sure about that? My total EC is maximum 1.8.
Also I bottom fed, so it's smart to flush from above?


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## JSheeze (Jan 25, 2019)

JSheeze said:


> Hey what's up, I was hoping I could get some opinions on what I got going on.
> 
> Day 35 from flip, *possible K deficiency?*...
> View attachment 4269501 View attachment 4269500
> ...


Tap water...


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## Go go n chill (Jan 25, 2019)

Ya man just coast till the finish


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Jan 25, 2019)

KonopCh said:


> Are you sure about that? My total EC is maximum 1.8.
> Also I bottom fed, so it's smart to flush from above?


it's not the total ec, it's what makes up the ec. you're adding mkp....and using base nutes...you probably have way too much P....which has a tendency to burn leaf tips and edges when over applied...you don't get burnt edges from under feeding


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## KonopCh (Jan 25, 2019)

Roger A. Shrubber said:


> it's not the total ec, it's what makes up the ec. you're adding mkp....and using base nutes...you probably have way too much P....which has a tendency to burn leaf tips and edges when over applied...you don't get burnt edges from under feeding


Cannabis loves P. And at 0.2-0.3 g/L I doubt it's excess. That's 0.1-0.2 EC. I was using the same fed in the past and had no troubles. That's why I doubt.
Also P excess shows as Ca/Fe/Zn deficiency.

I don't like to guess what is wrong with my plants, so I am looking for someone who spent 2min looking at my picture and read whole text and they think about it. And then reply. No ofense.


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Jan 25, 2019)

you're late in flower in coco, all the "deficits" in the coco have been filled by now, and all the extra stuff you've been adding to make up the deficits are now available...abundantly...
and who told you that about cannabis loving P?.....it's the least needed of the three....K......is where it's at, and at this point S.....not P....not ever that much P

and i'm not guessing....


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## Black Thumb (Jan 29, 2019)

KonopCh said:


> Hey guys, I've got little problem around 3 weeks till finish. But it's going worse every day and really fast! I grow in coco, I'm adding 0.2-0.3 grams per liter of MKP and epsom salt with some extra calcium. And base nute of course.
> 
> All leaves (new and older) are lime green, despite I fed them full strenght. So I guess this is not N deficiency based on my previous grows and experience. Leaves are yellowing on the outside edges, center of leaves are lime green. Some leaves as you can see, have rusty spots on the edges, but not all.
> 
> ...


Whats your PH ? I was having issues like this in flower and veg, coco perlite mix. I tried everything, im still recovering. I started raising the ph to 6 and they started to green back up.


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## NOOOBIENOT (Feb 14, 2019)

that is nute burn all the way, back off on the nutes by half and ph water to 5.8 for coco the leaves wont repair but it may help with the building up of the buds , with 3 weeks to go you wont see a lot of change but it will help with it continuing to spread further on the plant


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## KarmaKav (Feb 22, 2019)

neved said:


> Ty guy NICK ...(I think my prb is Ca def so)View attachment 1895245View attachment 1895246View attachment 1895247
> U r perfect doctor for us..
> Wish to hear more and more from u and your exp/////
> Very very good issue....
> BEst wishes ....


How long did it take for your plants to flower? Mine just keeps getting taller with more leaves, but no sign of buds. Your's are beautiful!


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## CanadianDank (Feb 22, 2019)

From flip usually ten days or so for a properly vegd plant.
Could be more for sativa leaning strains though
What are you working with?


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## Pawnee (Apr 17, 2019)

New to growing and to site. Very nice read for begginers like myself. I've been relying on YouTube incredibly too long!!


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## Bourbon 2 (May 2, 2019)

Gents I need some advice. I'm a hobbyist at growing but I've never had this issue before. Two plants, Blueberry Kush and Chem Dog #4 are only in the 4wk of flower (soil)  and theyve continued to yellow, your input is much appreciated.
Cheers


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## myfloridagreen882 (May 3, 2019)

A deficiency of this causes yellowing of the leaves. its common during vegetative simply because the plant is using it up just as fast as your putting it in. It also happens during flowering sometimes because most flowering fertilizers contain little or no nitrogen, as this is not a key nutrient in that phase of the plant's life cycle.

Normally the lack will be detectable on the lower some portion of the plant, on the more seasoned leaves. at that point, as it advances it will move upwards towards the more up to date development. 

*unlike a magnesium insufficiency, nitrogen def will begin from the tips and works its direction inward* (sick get to mag def later). Above all else yellowing of leaves is brought about by this, and it will stunt development harshly!


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## Bourbon 2 (May 3, 2019)

myfloridagreen882 said:


> A deficiency of this causes yellowing of the leaves. its common during vegetative simply because the plant is using it up just as fast as your putting it in. It also happens during flowering sometimes because most flowering fertilizers contain little or no nitrogen, as this is not a key nutrient in that phase of the plant's life cycle.
> 
> Normally the lack will be detectable on the lower some portion of the plant, on the more seasoned leaves. at that point, as it advances it will move upwards towards the more up to date development.
> 
> *unlike a magnesium insufficiency, nitrogen def will begin from the tips and works its direction inward* (sick get to mag def later). Above all else yellowing of leaves is brought about by this, and it will stunt development harshly!


So I asked for some cal-mag at my local supply store and showed photos of the deficiency, the dude swore up and down that my ph was too high. I always monitor levels but started 2nd guessing myself so here's the actual result. I applied the application and added a light foliar spray, hopefully I'll see positive results and get things back on track. Thanks for your input 
Cheers


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## raggyb (May 3, 2019)

My blueberry got some early yellow and I noticed them even on the seller's picture. So it could at least partially be a natural aspect of the blueberry in your blueberry kush. Someone said it was a light feeder but likes cal/mg. Just a thought cause I'm no expert.


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## Bourbon 2 (May 3, 2019)

raggyb said:


> My blueberry got some early yellow and I noticed them even on the seller's picture. So it could at least partially be a natural aspect of the blueberry in your blueberry kush. Someone said it was a light feeder but likes cal/mg. Just a thought cause I'm no expert.


That's good to know, this is the 1st I've grown these strains. The same is happening to my chem dog #4 too. Either way I'll update the results


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## minhphuong66 (May 7, 2019)

I will do this. thank you <3


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## Esp42092 (May 8, 2019)

Couldn't figure out how to post need help. What's wrong with my girls? Lol. The only thing I've dun different is not usejng epsion salt in every feed and I can definitely tell the difference in growth rate. With out it. Is this a mag deffncy? I'm getting epsion salt tommaro my pH is on point every feeding.


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## Bourbon 2 (May 9, 2019)

Esp42092 said:


> Couldn't figure out how to post need help. What's wrong with my girls? Lol. The only thing I've dun different is not usejng epsion salt in every feed and I can definitely tell the difference in growth rate. With out it. Is this a mag deffncy? I'm getting epsion salt tommaro my pH is on point every feeding.


Where are you at in your grow, early, mid or late flower? Hydroponic or soil?


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## Esp42092 (May 10, 2019)

Soil there not even showing sex yet


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## Esp42092 (May 10, 2019)

Maybe 2 months give or take


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## Bourbon 2 (May 10, 2019)

Esp42092 said:


> Maybe 2 months give or take


I've been having issues with my current run. I'm no expert by any means but it looks like a "sulphur" defiencency.


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## Esp42092 (May 10, 2019)

Yeah I treated for that last night but no Major Change that I can tell yet! I'm worried tho and would like to correct what's going on before it's to late.


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## Bourbon 2 (May 10, 2019)

Esp42092 said:


> Yeah I treated for that last night but no Major Change that I can tell yet! I'm worried tho and would like to correct what's going on before it's to late.


Try a light foliage application right before the lights go out


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## Esp42092 (May 11, 2019)

Alright will do!. still no difference in the colloring I'm really starting to worry it's not stoping growth at all but you can tell there sick and one has it worse then the other the green is fadeing into Yello from the bottom of lefs up I think I'll take pics of the hole plants so you can really see what's going on


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## Esp42092 (May 11, 2019)

The buddy that had them before me didn't Kno what he was doing so they already had stunt issues but I brought eem put of it then this happened


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## Esp42092 (May 11, 2019)

Out**


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## Bourbon 2 (May 11, 2019)

Esp42092 said:


> Out**


Update with a photo of the plant


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## Esp42092 (May 11, 2019)

I've tried it won't load up on here look in my threads I just posted a post with a pic


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## coreywebster (May 11, 2019)

Esp42092 said:


> I've tried it won't load up on here look in my threads I just posted a post with a pic


Try using google chrome, site doesn't like some browsers.


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## coreywebster (May 11, 2019)

You need to take pics of whole plants so we can see where this issue is and if there are any other signs that might help us diagnose.
Don't take leaves off a plant when they are alive, once you remove them if its a mobile deficiency it will move to other leaves quicker to strip the elements needed.


Esp42092 said:


> Couldn't figure out how to post need help. What's wrong with my girls? Lol. The only thing I've dun different is not usejng epsion salt in every feed and I can definitely tell the difference in growth rate. With out it. Is this a mag deffncy? I'm getting epsion salt tommaro my pH is on point every feeding.


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## Bourbon 2 (May 14, 2019)

Esp42092 said:


> I've tried it won't load up on here look in my threads I just posted a post with a pic


I think I found your photo but its super difficult to tell from that far away. But I don't think that you have a nitrogen deficiency. Here's what that looks like (two in the back)


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## Typapty (Aug 13, 2019)

What does this look like ? Magnesium? I have calmag should I use ?


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## Stltoed (Aug 13, 2019)

Typapty said:


> What does this look like ? Magnesium? I have calmag should I use ?


Is it possible to use a white light?


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## Typapty (Aug 13, 2019)

Sorry


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## Typapty (Aug 13, 2019)

Stltoed said:


> Is it possible to use a white light?


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## flexy123 (Aug 13, 2019)

How old is the plant, is it already in flowering? Are the white leaves on the bottom and slowly moving up, or are the white leaves on the top...and bottom leaves are green? And what are you otherwise feeding your plant and how often you water?

Just from the pics it looks like typical N deficiency which is normal in flowering.

(N deficiency is always old, bottom large leaves, moving up. When it happens I flowering, don't worry. If it's Calcium/Iron (top leaves more, and also younger leaves white), or Mg or Phosphorus or whatever, doesn't really matter: Means SOMETHING is wrong with your watering and/or nutrient regimen. Overwatering == 99% of problems or pH. So if that's the case, flush the plant and then give normal nutrients in the recommended dosage. CalMag rarely "hurts", as most CalMag also has iron in it so it addresses lots of problems....but know that CalMag is just like an emergency solution. You need to know what *causes* the problem)

Deficiencies == possibly from overwatering, too much nutes accumulate over time in the soil== nute lockout from too acidy soil. (FLUSH!) Overwatering can also fuck up roots, mould etc, root rot == all kinds of problems. Bugs are another possibility eg. spider mites. Take a loupe and check for mites.


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## Typapty (Aug 14, 2019)

flexy123 said:


> How old is the plant, is it already in flowering? Are the white leaves on the bottom and slowly moving up, or are the white leaves on the top...and bottom leaves are green? And what are you otherwise feeding your plant and how often you water?
> 
> Just from the pics it looks like typical N deficiency which is normal in flowering.
> 
> ...


The plant is about 6 months and in 2nd week of flower . I fed a 60 day feed so it's likely ate all nutes .. replenish? The leaves started turning yellow on bottom to middle of plants then they started to work it way up to fresh growth . I hope it's not a lockout my friend was watering them when I wasn't home and he did say he water the hell out of them .... So over watering could be a factor . I have fed once with calmag no result . I'll feed calmag again when leaves are down and soil is dry


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## flexy123 (Aug 14, 2019)

Uhm...don't worry. Looks like the typical N deficiency in flowering, especially if it starts with the lower, large leaves. It's normal! But yes, let them dry out between waterings...but I don't think it's anything to worry.


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## Typapty (Aug 14, 2019)

flexy123 said:


> Uhm...don't worry. Looks like the typical N deficiency in flowering, especially if it starts with the lower, large leaves. It's normal! But yes, let them dry out between waterings...but I don't think it's anything to worry.


Ok great thank you !. I just didn't think it would start turning color till later in flower(day30or so) in witch case i know it's normal . I will update Ina couple weeks .*thanks again*


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## Bourbon 2 (Aug 14, 2019)

Typapty said:


> The plant is about 6 months and in 2nd week of flower . I fed a 60 day feed so it's likely ate all nutes .. replenish? The leaves started turning yellow on bottom to middle of plants then they started to work it way up to fresh growth . I hope it's not a lockout my friend was watering them when I wasn't home and he did say he water the hell out of them .... So over watering could be a factor . I have fed once with calmag no result . I'll feed calmag again when leaves are down and soil is dry


The plants will tell you when they need water. Leaves will become droopy. With adequate air circulation air pots 7-10 gal water every 4 days 1- 1.5 gal. Solid plastic pots retain much longer. Usually even at 4 day intervals on fabric pots if leaves aren't dropping lift the pot, if it fills heavy then wait. Cheers


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## Typapty (Aug 14, 2019)

Bourbon 2 said:


> The plants will tell you when they need water. Leaves will become droopy. With adequate air circulation air pots 7-10 gal water every 4 days 1- 1.5 gal. Solid plastic pots retain much longer. Usually even at 4 day intervals on fabric pots if leaves aren't dropping lift the pot, if it fills heavy then wait. Cheers


Great thank you . I'll be sure to not let this happen again


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## stoner4204ever (Aug 18, 2019)

Yellowing. Too much p or not enough mg?


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## CanadianDank (Aug 20, 2019)

stoner4204ever said:


> Yellowing. Too much p or not enough mg?


Information on grow style?


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## stoner4204ever (Aug 20, 2019)

CanadianDank said:


> Information on grow style?


Live soil. Bat guano. HPS . I had just fertilized the day before this happened


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## stoner4204ever (Aug 20, 2019)

Also having problem with fungus gnats. I have been toping the soil with d.e. and added Great White Mycorrhizac


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## CanadianDank (Aug 20, 2019)

stoner4204ever said:


> Also having problem with fungus gnats. I have been toping the soil with d.e. and added Great White Mycorrhizac


Could you post your soil recipe? also what is your water source and what have you been adding with waterings?
I think you've probably got enough in the soil assuming it's a decent recipe in which case I would give a top dress with some fresh earthworm castings water that in with some aloe water and maybe a foliar with some fulvic acid.
That's what I would do based off the little information I have on your situation


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## stoner4204ever (Aug 20, 2019)

Great lakes live soil. Don't have the recipe but it contains worm cast. I use Ozarka spring water 2 tbs 0-5-0 per g.and 1 tbs Molasses


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## stoner4204ever (Aug 20, 2019)

Fulvic acid?


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## stoner4204ever (Aug 20, 2019)

My pH is just above 7 but it has always been there.


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## Typapty (Aug 20, 2019)

It is magnesium.... Cal mag helped mine


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## stoner4204ever (Aug 21, 2019)

What about epsom salt


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## stoner4204ever (Aug 21, 2019)

Is there enough magnesium in molasses to bring her back. I don't want to use any more ferts


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## Palckl899014 (Aug 21, 2019)

Hey guys new to Riu and was sent here for some help. On my 2nd grow and I'm having a little problem not sure if it's a deficiency or what hoeing you guys could help me out. Thank


----------



## Typapty (Aug 21, 2019)

stoner4204ever said:


> What about epsom salt


Yep epson salts will do just fine


----------



## Typapty (Aug 21, 2019)

stoner4204ever said:


> Is there enough magnesium in molasses to bring her back. I don't want to use any more ferts


Although u are half way threw bud? I would just let it go tbh ... And put molasses


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## stoner4204ever (Aug 21, 2019)

Typapty said:


> Although u are half way threw bud? I would just let it go tbh ... And put molasses


This was my thought as well.


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## CanadianDank (Aug 21, 2019)

stoner4204ever said:


> Is there enough magnesium in molasses to bring her back. I don't want to use any more ferts


Stop with the P.
You are hurting your microbes with excessive amounts as well as locking up Mag.
Top dress with ewc and plain water only, for a while....


----------



## CanadianDank (Aug 21, 2019)

Palckl899014 said:


> Hey guys new to Riu and was sent here for some help. On my 2nd grow and I'm having a little problem not sure if it's a deficiency or what hoeing you guys could help me out. ThankView attachment 4382951 View attachment 4382952


Post information on your grow so that others can help you. 
Grow medium, feeding / watering schedule, temps, humidity etc


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## stoner4204ever (Aug 21, 2019)

This is 100x on my dieing leaf


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## CanadianDank (Aug 21, 2019)

stoner4204ever said:


> This is 100x on my dieing leaf


Did you read my last message though?


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## stoner4204ever (Aug 21, 2019)

Yes I've already stopped all ferts only water and molasses


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## CanadianDank (Aug 22, 2019)

stoner4204ever said:


> Yes I've already stopped all ferts only water and molasses


Go to the organics section, they have a ROLS thread which is a great read


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## Typapty (Aug 22, 2019)

stoner4204ever said:


> Also having problem with fungus gnats. I have been toping the soil with d.e. and added Great White Mycorrhizac


Lady bugs


----------



## Cannademik (Aug 23, 2019)

Anyone know why my seedlings are burnt looking?
In coco/perlite
Under QB turned down to lowest settings. Approx 12" away
Using 1/2 teaspoon 1 gal water fox farm grow big.


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## stoner4204ever (Aug 23, 2019)

Cannademik said:


> Anyone know why my seedlings are burnt looking?
> In coco/perlite
> Under QB turned down to lowest settings. Approx 12" away
> Using 1/2 teaspoon 1 gal water fox farm grow big.


How hot is your grow room


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## Cannademik (Aug 23, 2019)

stoner4204ever said:


> How hot is your grow room


This morning it was like 77


----------



## Typapty (Aug 23, 2019)

Cannademik said:


> Anyone know why my seedlings are burnt looking?
> In coco/perlite
> Under QB turned down to lowest settings. Approx 12" away
> Using 1/2 teaspoon 1 gal water fox farm grow big.


Iv never fed any nutes that young ...


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## Cannademik (Aug 23, 2019)

They're in coco. No nutes in coco.


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## raggyb (Aug 24, 2019)

There's some things you have to do to prep coco. Soak, rinse, prime it with nutes so in pH equals out pH. In general then you don't need nutes for this small. I never coco but learned a few things when I was thinking of. So search out starting in coco if you didn't already.


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## stoner4204ever (Aug 25, 2019)

Looks like heat stress to me


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## Palckl899014 (Aug 26, 2019)

CanadianDank said:


> Post information on your grow so that others can help you.
> Grow medium, feeding / watering schedule, temps, humidity etc


Growing in promix bx, sensi a&b temps on average between 70-76 watering once a weeks except my blue sunshine they are hungry as shit. The only plant having a problem is my ssdd


----------



## Palckl899014 (Aug 26, 2019)




----------



## nor cal 999 (Sep 2, 2019)

Can anyone help me out with this?


----------



## nor cal 999 (Sep 2, 2019)

Clay pebbles top feed
Roots always in 2 inches of water
Watering schedule 15min every 2 hours 
Res temp 68 degrees 
GH trio line up
Ph 6.0
Tap water 34ppm
Res 550 ppm 150 of it being calmag
500watt LEDs 30in from canopy 
H2O2 every 5 days
Res change 7 days
Strain purple punch


----------



## Aragog (Oct 22, 2019)

Great post very informative and an interesting read. Thanks for sharing. As for being a god, I can't help but think of the line.
"Zool: Are you a god...
Ray: ...No
Zool: Then, Die!
Winston: Ray, When Someone Asks If You’re a God, You Say YES!"- Ghostbusters 1984


----------



## growmie108 (Mar 4, 2020)

Can anyone help? Lots of pale green leaves. Some yellow tips on a couple of leaves. Also pale green spots on some leaves. (have treated with neem oil in case of mites). 

Have 5 different girls growing with only this one exhibiting any major problems (all different genetics). This is after 6 weeks. The problem plant is a WW auto (12 weeks life cycle according to seed bank). Not sure if I'm overfeeding or under feeding. 

I switched all plants to bloom nutes at same time (to keep it easy) so maybe the WW needs more N? Problem is I also upped the feeding in the last week because we had a fair bit of rain so I was worried about run off so may have overfed? 

Thanks in advance! 

Here is original essay thread for some background. 





First time grower - need some advice.


Hi guys, First time growing. I've got 5 autoflower girls growing outdoors in 30L fabric pots. I used some premium potting mix (60% approx.) to a 70/30 coco perlite blend (40% approx). I germinated directly in the pots and didn't provide nutes for first 2 weeks. From week 3-5 I gave veg nutes...



www.rollitup.org


----------



## Ranger69 (Mar 31, 2020)

Can you guys help me figure out what’s going on? My temps are 77* 60% humidity and running co2. I can’t tell if I’m deficient or in toxicity on my phos nutes and cal mag? I think I’m deficient on them but this is my first grow on week 6 of flower on my autos. (Purple lemonade and skittles)


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## Ranger69 (Mar 31, 2020)

This one didn’t load


----------



## raggyb (Apr 4, 2020)

growmie108 said:


> Can anyone help? Lots of pale green leaves. Some yellow tips on a couple of leaves. Also pale green spots on some leaves. (have treated with neem oil in case of mites).
> 
> Have 5 different girls growing with only this one exhibiting any major problems (all different genetics). This is after 6 weeks. The problem plant is a WW auto (12 weeks life cycle according to seed bank). Not sure if I'm overfeeding or under feeding.
> 
> ...


i don't know autos. is it getting enuff hours light? all the plants autos? all have those white spots?


----------



## Ranger69 (Apr 4, 2020)

raggyb said:


> i don't know autos. is it getting enuff hours light? all the plants autos? all have those white spots?


Yea all autos and they are under 24 hrs of light


----------



## raggyb (Apr 5, 2020)

Ranger69 said:


> Yea all autos and they are under 24 hrs of light


my fault. it's autos, outdoors, idk. besides an apparent bug problem of some kind.


----------



## jamolamo (May 11, 2020)

First time grower looking for any opinions or advice regarding plants showing signs of nitrogen deficiency AND toxicity. The plant seems to be oscillating between deficiency and toxicity. 

First we saw, classic signs of deficiency, the yellowing of bottom leaves started, now there's 5 yellow leaves on just 1 plant. But after I used the General Hydroponics flora series we saw signs of toxicity, very dark green and clawing leaves. I'm worried I mixed the flora series too strong. I can't find the sweet spot for my plants. 

I followed a chart made by the company for week 3 of vegetative/growth stage: 5 ml Micro, 5 ml Gro, 2.5 ml Bloom per gallon of water. Mixed correctly and tested and adjusted pH to about 6.4. Also, we've been alternating feedings with plain water and fertilizer solution. 

Other info: 
growing in a mixture of soil, coco coir, perlite, with clay pebbles on bottom
running lights 24 hours a day
Got the clones a month ago
growing fast, lots of branches and growth nodes, new leaves always look healthy
*one plant is worse than the others and was the first to show symptoms, but others now have yellowing bottom leaves too

The plants are due to be fed tomorrow. I want to try a weaker solution but not sure how to go about it. I could just add water to dilute the recipe above or I could try a different recipe. 
Doing more research, I found a different recipe using a ratio method, 3-2-1 for vegetative stage. (3 parts Grow, 2 parts Micro, 1 part Bloom. 1 part = 5 ml) The instructions just say to dilute to your plants needs, up to half for soil. This seems even stronger than what I used. 

But then I finally found a 3rd recipe someone is using that is half as strong as the one I used: 2.46 ml micro, 2.46 ml gro, 1.23 ml Bloom.

I'want to try that but I can only measure 5 ml accurately... so, I need to find a smaller measurement vessel.


----------



## flexy123 (May 11, 2020)

Hello,

I am growing with GHE products (FLORA series like you have, but also Floranova) for a long time.

The Flora series (Micro, Grow, Bloom) is praised by everyone if you look around, but myself I now need to admit that I ALWAYS have problems with my plants, yellow leaves early on (where there shouldn't be yellow leaves), or in worst case scenario my plants just dying.

Then again I am using three Flora bottles which are (at least!) 4 years old, but I was told by GHE themselves that the stuff should have infinite shelf-life, when sealed and stored cool/dry. (I already opened mine). I have indeed so poor results with growing recently that I absolutely NEED TO switch my nutrients. Maybe the nutrients have really gone bad, I don't have another explanation and I am at a loss. (You have no idea how much I already read into feeding charts, correct dosing etc...and still I always have problems).

Here is the kicker: The exact opposite with Floranova Bloom! (ONLY with Floranova Bloom, up to 2.12 ml per LITER == Lucasformula. [You can google Lucas Formula if you want]. Floranova Grow is not needed). Not only did my plants grow like M*therf*ckers with Floranova, I also never had any sort of deficiency with it. This is another sign that something must be off with my three bottles of Flora. I am about to toss it out.

Otherwise you say 5ml M, 5ml G, 2.5 ml B PER GALLON, which comes out to 1.3ml/L per liter, which to me sounds about right.

Also: You say you are growing in a mix with added perlite, coco...same here! It is possible that this means you need to inc. dosage and especially you need to add CalMag, as Coco is leeching out Calcium. But I do add calmag, but as said s poor results recently I am giving up on the three Flora bottles. I am about to get FloraDuo.

Also: Get these plastic pipettes, you can get these in any grow store, ebay or online. MUST HAVE. Otherwise 20 drops == 1ml. How can you even dose right without these?

Also: You say that descriptions somewhere say "to dilute" for soil. To be more exact, what it says (on the label, and and on some feeding schedule) is that you need to use HALF of what the schedule or the label says for soil. (If it says "Terra: 50%"). Also 2.5ml per GALLON to me looks awfully little to me. Maybe someone else can help there. I wish I could give dosing recommendations, but with my poor results and plants getting YELLOW AGAIN as I type this I just can't. It's incredible frustrating as I am growing for many years already and I am as part of my work even writing on the subject of growing. I feel like an idiot to not be able to grow without major problems, as if it would be my first grow. As said I am at a loss what is going on here, and I have concluded it must be the nutrients.

That stuff (Flora) needs to go in the trash, at least in my case.


----------



## shuu80 (Jun 4, 2020)

Thank yu


----------



## RaisingNature (Nov 5, 2020)

the last piece of info i can give: You are not a genius or a godlike deity. dont think you can take a turd in the backyard, wait a week and use that as home made fertilizer (yes, theres a thread on this.) the entire point of this websites' forums is a community of people, knowledge, and experience. trust Roll it up. trust each other and trust yourself.

happy growing!

[/QUOTE]
This seams pretty intimidating to maintain sense im about to start my first auto flower grow. But i have faith


----------



## diablu (Jan 3, 2021)

nick please help me what's wrong with her


----------



## Angus Hung (Jan 3, 2021)

are you trying to finish a plant in a solo cup?
she dont look happy


----------



## raggyb (Jan 3, 2021)

diablu said:


> nick please help me what's wrong with her View attachment 4785333View attachment 4785334


only guessing the usual, overwatered, lockout, light burn, pH and rootbound. would concentrate on potting up and watering less.


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## diablu (Jan 3, 2021)

no am not it has a big pot 1 gal


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## diablu (Jan 3, 2021)

raggyb said:


> only guessing the usual, overwatered, lockout, light burn, pH and rootbound. would concentrate on potting up and watering less.


I moved it from the smaller pot to bigger one am using normal soil it was fine till flowering


----------



## diablu (Jan 3, 2021)

I already flushed it I tried adding fertilizer only found one that's 6 6 40 npk I was thinking nute lock thing is it's been better lost alot of foliage now it's not loosing anymore everything went to shit after putting matches in the soil cuz I heard it helps with magnesium deficiency couldn't find cal mag or molasses also I tried adding some off
the shelf organic fertilizer idk what to do


----------



## raggyb (Jan 3, 2021)

diablu said:


> I already flushed it I tried adding fertilizer only found one that's 6 6 40 npk I was thinking nute lock thing is it's been better lost alot of foliage now it's not loosing anymore everything went to shit after putting matches in the soil cuz I heard it helps with magnesium deficiency couldn't find cal mag or molasses also I tried adding some off
> the shelf organic fertilizer idk what to do


I think the 40 is waaay too high potassium. so think flush again. what's your base soil mix? did you add perlite to it?


----------



## diablu (Jan 3, 2021)

raggyb said:


> I think the 40 is waaay too high potassium. so think flush again. what's your base soil mix? did you add perlite to it?


well I used sea soil 
couldn't find potting mix or perlight


----------



## raggyb (Jan 4, 2021)

diablu said:


> well I used sea soil
> couldn't find potting mix or perlight


it's amazing how many choices there are out there for growing, i don't know what sea soil is but guess if it's soil only you probably want some aeration such as perlite or the water doesn't dry out and therefore it gets over watered. over watering results in over nute lockout as it tries to drink too much. Maybe it was ok until flower becuase the problem compounds but also coincidentally you gave it the 4-4-50 so that made it worse too. sometimes you can wait 2 weeks before watering again. you might try that and also poke right down in the pot with a kabob skewer a dozen times or so. some people say throw the plant out but i think you should try to save it because that is the only way we learn.


----------



## bleacher (Jan 5, 2021)

Need some advice on these outdoor plants. I was using stored rainwater but realized it was full of pythium so switched to municipal water which has calcium in it. Now appears to have calcium buildup and toxicity and also magnesium deficiency. Am I correct?


----------



## JACKMAYOFFERISLEGEND (Jan 22, 2021)

Hopefully someone could help me I've had this problem for 2 years and finally worked it out it may seem daft but I've been giving my plants too much nitrogen all the way through veg and upto week 5 flower I'm currently growing highmacs from sunken treasure seeds. My problem is my coco a has 5 nitrogen in it do i still carry on giving it at the recommended dose 2.5ml per l as the chart says on plagron. The worst thing 2 years ago whn I started the charts sadi feed 4ml per l so I've always done that and now I know why I never got yellowing and my flavour just wasn't there but yield and density was good.I also swazzed alot on day 21so put them through it. Does 2 much nitrogen with heavy defoliation stall plants as my buds full of crystal jus look week 4 size not end of 5 thanks and sorry for long post.


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## TheVirginGrower (Jan 30, 2021)

nick17gar said:


> So 99% of the times I come in here to see what people are up to and check what forum threads I can throw some advice in, its plant issues.
> 
> "theres yellowing" or "leaf is dry and brittle" or "OMG SPOTS!"
> 
> ...


Thank you. 10 years later. Good info


----------



## bazoomer (Feb 15, 2021)

flexy123 said:


> Hello,
> 
> I am growing with GHE products (FLORA series like you have, but also Floranova) for a long time.
> 
> ...


I could have wrote that. Same problems with gh, experienced grower, scratches head for 8 grows with trio, same problems in flower every time !!!! It's relaunched "Terra Aquatics" now, just about to try new batch. 
Feeling ya pain brother.


----------



## Ernest Kish (Dec 26, 2021)

really great post...sometimes leaves can be hard to read so you gave us newbies a great step up in our grow ...thank you....


----------



## Stltoed (Dec 26, 2021)

nick17gar said:


> So 99% of the times I come in here to see what people are up to and check what forum threads I can throw some advice in, its plant issues.
> 
> "theres yellowing" or "leaf is dry and brittle" or "OMG SPOTS!"
> 
> ...


Exactly like every book ever written


----------



## Old Grower Dude (Dec 27, 2021)

Been a long time lurker just getting general consensus on things here and there. I am a very long time grower for over 35 years. First 20 years were exclusively outdoor grows in Cali. North and south. Most of the time in those very early years we had no clue what we were growing. It all came from bag seed. Most of the time we ended up with seeds in our fems because other growers even miles away would not pull the males or were too late in pulling them. Growing in the ground was easy for the most part because of the soil and not having to worry so much about deficiencies. Just weather, bugs and theft were the basic concerns. 

Fast forward to the last 15 or 20 years I have grown exclusively indoors. Started doing this because by then the indoor lights had gotten to the point of being able to produce high quality herb. Indoors I can control every aspect of the grow from start to finish. I grow now exclusively for the medical community delivering very high quality organic (for the most part) herb at cost. I have grown out at least over 200 different strains. I tell you all of this not trying to brag or claim I have superior knowledge. I am naturally very curious and will try all manner of new ways to do things. Experimenting in my conditions so I can grow even better quality is my goal. I have failed many, many times spectacularly but have learned from those failures. 

Now the very reason I am posting here today is the issue this forum is based on and that is nutrient deficiency or toxicity. To fix these issues requires patience and trial and error and the slow elimination of causes. It can be very tedious and it is what I call chasing rabbits. I dont like chasing rabbits because you seldom catch them if you try. This is assuming you are growing indoors in a soil of some sort. Hydro etc is a whole different concept mostly having to do with water and ppms etc. I do not grow in hydro for a few reasons. One it requires more work and if your power goes so does all your crops. During a week long power outage in the winter time I kept a 10x20 grow room warm enough by candles and the plants survived while those I knew growing in hydro lost them all. I also prefer the quality and taste of herb grown in soil versus hydro. When I say soil I also mean soil less type mediums for the most part.

So the elimination of causes is basically where you start. 

Lights
Temps
Water
Soil
Nutrients
Pests

If you are using the same lights you have always used then you can probably rule that out right off. Lights dont generally cause the problems associated with our problem.

If your temps are basically staying in the same range they always have then you can probably rule that out as well.

Water is a factor all too well known to have some issue depending on what water you are using. I use tap water as where I am we have very good water quality from an aquifer and the only additive is chlorine (not chloramine) which does change seasonally to how much they add and requires to sit longer to dissipate. If you are using RO or some other form of filtered water and have not changed anything then a simple ph test will determine if your water is at neutral where it should be.

Soil or soil less mediums are and can be where chasing rabbits is quite common. Many growers think because they are using what they have always used it could not possibly be the problem. I have found that not to be true at all. The soil mix I currently use is the sunshine advanced 4 at a 50% ratio to FF Ocean Forest 50%. This gives me a good mix of organics to soil less (peat moss etc). For a few years Fox Farm had quality control issues and I stopped using it because it was basically stunting the plants growth and PH problems. I have tried countless other mixes with varying degrees of success and/or failure. Some were too high in organics and could not really control the timing of giving the plants what they needed when they needed it. Some problems I recently have come across concerns the Pro-Mix HP and BX products. I ran across this problem a few years ago and quit using them but I could not find the Sunshine Advanced 4 mix so I went with the Pro-Mix hoping they had fixed their issues. Sadly my plants went through the same problems. It was PH problems then and it is now. The minute I flushed my veg plants and transplanted using only the FF soil did they almost overnight start to spring back. At first your plants will not show the PH problem until it is too late and then you start chasing the rabbit again trying to figure out what it is. You start thinking is it the nutes or what? Cal/mag issues? What? Because PH issues will seem to show your plants are deficient in these areas when it really is the PH stopping the plant from being able to use them. I had these same issues growing in Coco with some manufacturers. There are many posts about this so no need to elaborate. The PH problem in Peat products is usually one of too low a ph and the manufacturers add lime to raise the ph in peat products. Are they not putting enough in or? All I know is I am not chasing that rabbit. Even ph testing a small amount before using may not be inclusive to the whole bale you just got. Just flush and transplant into a good potting mix and see if that works. But have patience and test on one or 2 plants first. 

Nutrients are a whole different ball of wax. If you think after looking at the nutrient deficiency chart you have a good idea what you are deficient in or toxic in then you have a few ways to try and fix. Deficiency could mean adding more of what it needs and your problem is solved. But being deficient could mean you have what you need in the soil but it is locked out. Then you need to flush your plant with plain water. If it is toxicity then you need to flush the plant with plain water and then add what it is missing. Sometimes it even means to take the plant out of its container and knock off or spray off most of the soil and replant using good soil and just water. 

Pests can come in a variety of forms so I wont get into each and everyone of them and how to fix. The common ones are fungus gnats and spider mites. I have dealt with both. Fungus gnats I got rid of by watering with water and hydrogen peroxide every single plant I had and then have the yellow sticky paper. All gnats gone and have never had an issue since. Spider mites I take care of by a soap and neem oil water dip and rinse and have not had any issues with them years. I spray my plants with neem weekly and keep things clean. If I ever get a clone from someone it goes into quarantine and sprayed and scoped to make sure after 10 days no signs of mites before it goes with the rest of the plants. Now I dont take clones from anyone and only grow new strains from feminized seeds. Why take chances?

These are just my observations and how I do things. If whatever you are doing is working for you then keep on doing it your way. As I said I grow for medical quality and not for quantity trying to make money. If certain strains reach the holy grail stage of great quality and great quantity while also being an easy grower then they are kept in the rotation. If a new strain is grown and overtakes one of the strains in the rotation of 15 then it bumps the lowest out. I use a 10-10-10 scale and every strain gets a rating. Of course I have a few legendary strains that I will always keep going because the phenotype I have of it is exceptional in some way and you can not find in seed form again. 

All of these "fixes" require patience as nothing extraordinary happens over night. Be patient and give it a few days. New growth should appear and be normal. If not then sometimes it is best to just toss the plant and start fresh using soils and nutes as you usually use without issue.

I know this is probably way too long for most to want to read but if you did take the time I hope I have been of some use going forward in your growing endeavors.


----------



## subwax (Jan 9, 2022)

Thank you very much for taking the time to prepare this post - it is exceptionally useful.


----------



## vancoast_com (Jan 20, 2022)

Nutrient deficiencies can be avoided by being attentive and careful with the pH level of your nutrient-water solution. The reason your plant is deficient of these nutrients is because they are not getting absorbed. Incorrect levels will lock out certain nutrients thus giving you adverse effects. If you are consistent in feeding your plants their nutrients, it’s probably that the pH is either too high or low and the plant is not absorbing them.


----------



## bamboofarmer (Jan 22, 2022)

I guess this post is ok, but i don't think it is that great. Maybe it used to be? Half the pictures are missing. A chlorine deficiency will cause bronze leaves and stop root growth?


----------



## Cannabinoid Froyd (Feb 14, 2022)

bamboofarmer said:


> I guess this post is ok, but i don't think it is that great. Maybe it used to be? Half the pictures are missing. A chlorine deficiency will cause bronze leaves and stop root growth?


Agreed. Could use some updating. I have plenty of issues right now and plenty of pictures to send in if they can be helpful here.


----------



## RastaLove91 (Feb 15, 2022)

Old Grower Dude said:


> Been a long time lurker just getting general consensus on things here and there. I am a very long time grower for over 35 years. First 20 years were exclusively outdoor grows in Cali. North and south. Most of the time in those very early years we had no clue what we were growing. It all came from bag seed. Most of the time we ended up with seeds in our fems because other growers even miles away would not pull the males or were too late in pulling them. Growing in the ground was easy for the most part because of the soil and not having to worry so much about deficiencies. Just weather, bugs and theft were the basic concerns.
> 
> Fast forward to the last 15 or 20 years I have grown exclusively indoors. Started doing this because by then the indoor lights had gotten to the point of being able to produce high quality herb. Indoors I can control every aspect of the grow from start to finish. I grow now exclusively for the medical community delivering very high quality organic (for the most part) herb at cost. I have grown out at least over 200 different strains. I tell you all of this not trying to brag or claim I have superior knowledge. I am naturally very curious and will try all manner of new ways to do things. Experimenting in my conditions so I can grow even better quality is my goal. I have failed many, many times spectacularly but have learned from those failures.
> 
> ...


Thank you for this! This is one of the most valuable inputs I’ve come across in a very long time! All the best to you!


----------



## jjcultivation (Mar 1, 2022)

Ok guys having this issue come up a couple weeks in veg. Any ideas to help out? Thank you very much


----------



## raggyb (Mar 1, 2022)

jjcultivation said:


> Ok guys having this issue come up a couple weeks in veg. Any ideas to help out? Thank you very much


I believe that's calcium deficiency but it does look like you're feeding them so maybe it's toxicity? what are you doing water and feed and soil wise?


----------



## crisnpropa (May 29, 2022)

Anybody can help determine whats happening here ?


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## Roger A. Shrubber (May 29, 2022)

crisnpropa said:


> View attachment 5140898
> 
> Anybody can help determine whats happening here ?


since it's on upper leaves and the rest of the plant looks ok, i'm going to say at least partially calcium deficiency. i would make up a spray bottle of cal mag and give them a good foliar feeding, while also supplementing the amount of calcium you give them in your nutrient solution. maybe a little septoria, too...wouldn't hurt to apply some kind of fungicide. i like southern ag garden friendly fungicide, personally. it's a bacteria that will out compete the septoria and then die off when it runs out of food.
but mostly it looks like calcium.


----------



## Asgk (Jun 4, 2022)

Roger A. Shrubber said:


> since it's on upper leaves and the rest of the plant looks ok, i'm going to say at least partially calcium deficiency. i would make up a spray bottle of cal mag and give them a good foliar feeding, while also supplementing the amount of calcium you give them in your nutrient solution. maybe a little septoria, too...wouldn't hurt to apply some kind of fungicide. i like southern ag garden friendly fungicide, personally. it's a bacteria that will out compete the septoria and then die off when it runs out of food.
> but mostly it looks like calcium.
> [/QUOTE
> New here in the growing .
> ...


----------



## Roger A. Shrubber (Jun 4, 2022)

magnesium deficiency?....going by https://www.growweedeasy.com/cannabis-plant-problems/magnesium-deficiency


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## Zivahanmladic (Jun 20, 2022)

This stalk “broke” a bit in the middle of the first month, I tied it up with something and came back to life as I see it just a little behind the others, will it affect it in any way?


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## Roger A. Shrubber (Jun 21, 2022)

Zivahanmladic said:


> This stalk “broke” a bit in the middle of the first month, I tied it up with something and came back to life as I see it just a little behind the others, will it affect it in any way?


probably not, i "monster crop" too tall plants regularly, which is intentionally crushing a stem while trying not to damage the bark. they bend at that point, and usually grow a big knuckle there, then just keep on growing. you may have to support that plant, or it may grow a knuckle, but as long as the bark in intact, they'll live


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## Bizzie2410 (Nov 10, 2022)

Ehh I'm thinking zinc deficient... I'm not too sure what's going on with my leaves. Ending week 6 of flower.


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## Bizzie2410 (Nov 16, 2022)

Thanks for the help, not. Smh now I gotta chop mid week7


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## OhNo555 (Dec 1, 2022)

Great information have see a lot of it in a book I got last year. “The Cannabis Encyclopedia” By Jorge Cervantes. You are point on!


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## OhNo555 (Dec 7, 2022)

nick17gar said:


> these should help too:
> 
> View attachment 1894317View attachment 1894318


Good chart


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## OhNo555 (Dec 7, 2022)

Maybe next time somebody has a problem instead of buying some miracle cure in a bottle, they might want to buy a good book and do some learning. Knowledge will carry you a long way in this game and will way outlast last any bottle miracle that don’t exist


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## Django66 (Dec 28, 2022)

OhNo555 said:


> Maybe next time somebody has a problem instead of buying some miracle cure in a bottle, they might want to buy a good book and do some learning. Knowledge will carry you a long way in this game and will way outlast last any bottle miracle that don’t exist


Amen. like "Never feed a sick plant" Find out the problem first. Plants get yellow leaves. It's not always the end of the world or even a problem sometimes. Learn about gardening.


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## OhNo555 (Dec 29, 2022)

Read Read Read, you will learn a lot more and it will also give you a good idea of what to do. No it’s not the end of the world but a learning experience, you will get a lot more grows in as time passes everyone will be a learning experience. Just keep growing!


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