# Been curing for 5 days, stems dont' crack....should I be concerned?



## bahne (Feb 9, 2012)

Hello,
I dried according to the guide used by many growers of hanging for 3 days, then bagging with shredded bags for another 4 days.

I've been curing for 5 days now, and am noticing that my stems are not cracking but rather bending. Should I be concerned about this? I'm worried they may have too much moisture still and I am risking mold, which obviously would be the worst thing possible. I was considering taking them out and letting them dry a little more. I have been burping daily.


What do you guys think?


Thanks!


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## rocpilefsj (Feb 9, 2012)

You more than likely started your cure too early. You want to prolong the drying and curing process as long as you can... There is no set number of days, everyone's environment is different. I usually can't dry for longer than 4-5 days in my environment, but it is important that the drying is done correctly or the cure is worthless IMO.


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## Locked Up (Feb 9, 2012)

My opinion is that no matter how wet it is after however many days of curing as long as you don't have any mold you're good.


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## rocpilefsj (Feb 9, 2012)

Locked Up said:


> My opinion is that no matter how wet it is after however many days of curing as long as you don't have any mold you're good.


You do not want to be drying while you are trying to cure. Your end product will not be as good if you don't dry properly before starting your cure.


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## Locked Up (Feb 9, 2012)

well i do harvest by the whole plant and let it dry for 7-9 days the stems still bend the leaves are cripsy and the bud still slightly spongy, so I guess what I meant to say was I don't like the bud to ever get crispy or the stems to snap. I'll be at the same stage this guy is and It works out pretty damn well although I do burp frequently.


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## ganjaman87 (Feb 9, 2012)

I've found that letting the buds get crispy while there is still moisture in the stems is the best way to tell when to cure, this usually takes about 6 or 7 days for me. and when you put them in the jars they will become moist again...never cure while the buds are still wet man trust me i learned the hard way about 3 years ago, 2 whole plants molded on me because i was too eager to start curing


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## ganjaman87 (Feb 9, 2012)

also NEVER just put your wet buds in a bag all stuck together! you're ruining your crop man all the work you put into it.....and to answer your question, yes you are risking mold man I did the same exact thing you are doing. your best bet is to hang those buds back up and let them dry some more because 3 days is really not long enough for drying buds. the stems will begin to dry after you cure the buds for about 3 weeks. don't be so eager to dry and cure you're stuff man you waiting this long growing it so don't get all willy nilly and mess your crop up dude be patient it will be worth it in the end trust me.


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## bahne (Feb 9, 2012)

I wasn't too eager- I followed the directions exactly as stated (there is a 60 something page thread on how to do this on grasscity somewhere). It's not 3 days of drying but 7- when they're in the bags they're continuing the drying process. They're not stuck together either, theyre placed in brown grocery bags along with shredded lunch bag material to evenly distribute moisture.

Regardless, it's my first grow so i'm not too experienced as to what it should look like. I'm working with well over a lb, so I am doing everything I can to prevent mold while getting the best quality I can.


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## Bernie420 (Feb 11, 2012)

Take them out of the bags and hang them for about 5 hours then check stems. Put them back into the bags overnight with the bags rolled closed check the next day. If they are looking good after all these days cut the buds off the stems and jar them up check twice a day at least, burp them for about a half an hour. Then the next day if they feel wet again take them out of the jars, lay them out for a few hours then jar them back up and back to burping them. repeat as necessary.

Keep checking them. If you dry it to fast it will turn to dust. If you dry it to slow then mold could set in. If you take a bud and hit it or scruff it or break it open and it looks like dust flies off of it that is mold spores flying of of it = bad and you dont want that.


A properly dried and cured bud will have a nice tink tink sound to it when you bag it around in a mason jar. One that isnt fully dried or improperly dried bud will have a more pronounced muffled sound compared to the proper dried bud.


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## Brick Top (Feb 11, 2012)

bahne said:


> What do you guys think?


What do I think? I think you need to save the following information for your next crop so you know what to do next time and can do it right. 


*Manicuring, Drying, And Curing Marijuana*



Right after all the plants have been harvested, it is time to manicure them. Manicuring is simply cutting off the leaves that were growing from the buds. Cut off all the leaves surrounding the bud, so that just the bud remains. 
Work over a glass table or some kind of smooth flat surface. This will make it easy to collect all the material that has been cut away from the buds. It is lower in THC than the buds, but rather than throw it away, you can use it to make hash oil. 

When manicuring the buds, use a pair of scissors with small blades (to reach hard to get leaves) that is comfortable on your hands. If you have a small crop, you can handle the plants with bare hands. 

*The scissors will* probably accumulate some hash on the cutting area. Although the amount is small, it is worth collecting. Let it air dry for a day or so before smoking (till you can pick it up without it sticking to your fingers). 

With a large crop, wear powder free latex gloves. The latex gloves will collect trichome resin in a similar manner to the way live marijuana plants are rubbed to make hashish. The latex gloves have to be powder free or the powder will get mixed into the resin. 

Do not touch anything other than the plants once you have put the gloves on. If you have to do something, remove the gloves you are wearing and put them in a plastic bag, prior to doing whatever it is that has to be done. 

*When finished, put* on a pair of new gloves. Material on the first pair can be collected later. When you are finished manicuring all the plants, remove the gloves and place them in a plastic bag (to catch resin that drops off). 
Put the plastic bag with the gloves in a freezer for 2-3 hours. The trichome resin can easily be peeled from the frozen latex gloves and consumed the same way you would use hashish. 

If absolutely necessary, you can wait to manicure the buds. However, the job will take more time if you wait. Manicuring right after the plants are harvested will also speed the drying process. 

Instead smoking marijuana directly after it is harvested and manicured, it is best to dry and cure it. Some new growers might be in such a rush to try the marijuana that they don't want to dry the crop, or they might be tempted to put buds in a microwave oven to dry them out. 


*Drying Marijuana After Harvest*


You probably don't want to smoke marijuana that is harsh and bad tasting. If you do not take time to dry the bud, you will not get the best possible smell and taste your crop is capable of producing. 

Proper drying and curing will also ensure maximum potency of the marijuana you have grown. Marijuana is not potent just after harvest. Some of the THC is in a non-psychoactive acidic form. Drying marijuana the right way will convert the non-psychoactive acidic compounds into psychoactive THC. 

The area where the drying is done should be dark. Light and high temperatures (higher than about 80 degrees) will cause THC to break down into less desirable chemicals, this will lower the potency of the finished product. 

*A good way* to dry the crop is to hang the buds upside-down by the stem, from some string or wire. The drying marijuana must have some circulation blowing over it at all times. A gentle breeze that circulates air over all the plants is necessary. 

A fan or two will circulate air within the drying room. Fans will aid in drying the plants evenly, and reducing the chances of mold. If mold starts and is allowed to grow, it might ruin all of your crop. Mold looks like white fuzz and has an odor that is unpleasant. 

You will have to keep the temperature and humidity within a certain range for optimal results. Conditions should remain constantly somewhere within the following ranges, temperature should be between 65-75 degrees F, relative humidity should be between 45%-55%. 

*At temperatures lower* than 65 degrees, drying time will be lengthened. At temperatures higher than 75 degrees, the heat will cause the outer portion of the bud to dry quicker than the inner part, and the taste will suffer. 

At humidity levels lower than 45%, the marijuana will dry too fast and the taste will suffer. At humidity levels higher than 55%, the marijuana will take a long time to dry, and it will be prone to mold. 

Keep a hygrometer and a thermometer in the drying area, close to the plants. A hygrometer will allow you to keep an eye on the relative humidity level in the room and a thermometer will display the temperature. Some hygrometers have built in thermometers so you can measure the temperature and humidity together. 

*Depending on the* time of year and your location, a heater or an air conditioner may be necessary to adjust the temperature. To control humidity, a dehumidifier can lower humidity and a humidifier can be used to raise humidity. 

There are warm mist humidifiers and cool mist humidifiers. 
A warm mist humidifier will raise the temperature while a cool mist humidifier will not affect the temperature. There are also humidifiers that allow you to switch between warm or cool mist. If you are going to purchase a humidifier for this purpose, take your climate into consideration and buy an appropriate humidifier. 

Warm mist models will actually heat the water and release warm humidity. Cool mist water isn't cooled, it just means that water is not heated. In most cases a cool mist will work best. To be safe you can get a humidifier that lets you switch between warm and cool mist. 


*Curing Marijuana*


It will take at least a week or two to dry the crop with temperatures between 65-75 degrees F and relative humidity between 45%-55%. 

You will know when the marijuana is dry if the stems of large thick dense buds snap or break (rather than fold) when they are bent and the stems of smaller less dense buds bend and splinter into fibers, but do not break in two. Try smoking a small bud (1/2 gram or less) in a joint to be sure it is dry enough. 

At this time, small buds will be dry enough to smoke. But larger buds should be cured (slow dried) to ensure that the marijuana is as potent and tasty as possible. If necessary, you can set aside buds that are less than 1/2 gram for smoking, while larger buds cure. 

*Curing takes no less than *two weeks and two to six months, or more, would be much better. The aim of what you are doing is evenly finishing the slow dry process, so that mold will not grow when the buds are stored long term. Also, by the end of the cure, any remaining inactive THC will be converted to active THC. 

To cure the crop, you will need one or more containers made out of glass or plastic. Some people say the plastic containers the have can impart a taste to the marijuana. Personally, plastic containers that some types of roll your own tobacco are sold in, have no negative effect on the taste. 

Prior to putting your crop into any containers, you should wash them and after drying, smell them and make sure there is no chance of odors being absorbed by the drying marijuana and ruining the taste. 

*If you notice* any smell you can put baking soda (2 ounces or more by weight) into the container and put the top on for a few months. Change the baking soda every 1-2 months until the smell is absorbed. 

Containers that have a rubber seal work best, but any type of container with a tight fitting lid will do. One quart canning jars do a very good job if you are curing a few ounces. They have a rubber seal and hold somewhere near 1-2 ounces of marijuana per one quart jar. 

When curing quantities in excess of a few ounces, larger plastic storage boxes work well. They are not air tight, but will do the job when smaller air tight containers are not practical. 

*When the storage* container is ready, gently place your marijuana in the containers (cut buds to size if the are too big to fit in the container) and put the top on. Store the containers in a dark area where the temperature is between 50-65 degrees and the humidity is between 40%-60%. 

You will have to open the containers for a few minutes to allow moisture to escape by fanning with your hand. If any moisture builds up on the inside of the cap on your container, wipe it off. Do this preferably 2-6 times daily, at regular 4-12 hour intervals. 

You should also re-arrange the buds by giving them a quarter-turn once a day. This will ensure that different parts of the buds are exposed to the air in the container. Keep up this routine for 7-10 days. When properly dried, marijuana will burn evenly when smoked in a joint (if stems are removed). 

*The taste will* be as good as it can be, and the THC will have reached a point where it is ready to be ingested or stored. You can keep any marijuana that will be consumed within a few months (1 year maximum) in the same containers used for curing, without having to keep opening them to release moisture. 

If the marijuana is to be stored for more than a few months, you can use a vacuum sealer (designed for storing food) to seal the marijuana in an airtight environment. If stored in a dark area that is between 40-55 degrees F, the marijuana in vacuum sealed plastic will remain potent for up to 5 years. 

Dry marijuana can be stored in a frost-free freezer, but some of the THC on the outer part of the buds may be damaged when frozen. A refrigerator is in the right temperature range but they tend to be humid (unless you can control the humidity). 

*If stored in* an area of high humidity for months or years, even vacuum sealed marijuana can eventually become as humid as the surrounding air. This will necessitate drying it again before smoking. But, unless mold develops, humidity itself will not degrade the THC or make the marijuana any less potent. 

Light will degrade some of the THC, so dark containers can be used for storage. If you place the marijuana in a see through container, it will have to be located in a dark area that is not exposed to light or high temperatures. 

Always make sure to properly dry your marijuana prior to storage, if you grow your own or if the stuff you have is very moist. And remember that to preserve marijuana potency at a maximum level, keep any exposure to air, heat, and light at a minimum.


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## Newbbii (Oct 15, 2012)

I have a question I grow my plants set them up to dry but I got my days threw off I thought I let them dry on the stem for a week but it was only three days I cut them off the stems trimmed them & had them in a glass jar burping them for 3 more days the color has started to darken& if a don't fix them soon I'm afarid they'll begin to mold I've took them out of the jars & put into a large plastic open container to dry in a closet 1 hour ago... What can I do at this point to save them?


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## Gnomercy (Oct 16, 2012)

You are talking about Rumpleforskin on GC, he has that same post here as well and if you follow his directions to a T you will be right as rain.



bahne said:


> I wasn't too eager- I followed the directions exactly as stated (there is a 60 something page thread on how to do this on grasscity somewhere). It's not 3 days of drying but 7- when they're in the bags they're continuing the drying process. They're not stuck together either, theyre placed in brown grocery bags along with shredded lunch bag material to evenly distribute moisture.
> 
> Regardless, it's my first grow so i'm not too experienced as to what it should look like. I'm working with well over a lb, so I am doing everything I can to prevent mold while getting the best quality I can.


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