# Hydroponics



## potroast (Aug 28, 2006)

All right! Hydroponics is what I know, and hydroponics is the way I grow!  

This forum will be great, we can discuss anything hydro. No dirtbags here, We haul water!

We can compare the different nutrient salts, and all of the additives. Plus the kinds of soilless media and what irrigation system is best for each. And of course, pH and TDS measuring equipment, feeding and flushing, etc.

And all the while, we'll make fun of those guys hauling big bags of dirt!  


I can't think of any questions right now, what do YOU want to know?


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## Garden Knowm (Aug 28, 2006)

How did you get your name? POT ROAST?


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## Widow Maker (Aug 28, 2006)

potroast said:


> All right! Hydroponics is what I know, and hydroponics is the way I grow!
> 
> This forum will be great, we can discuss anything hydro. No dirtbags here, We haul water!
> 
> ...


Man you just wanted to be the first person to whore up the hydro section. lol.

J/k Im sure I will be asking a few questions once I get my airoronics system built.

Knowm... I think it's because he is always roasted on pot


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## Dr. Greenthumb (Aug 30, 2006)

How often do you have to flush the water in a hydro system?


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## POETIC (Aug 31, 2006)

In Terms Of Quality Would You Say Waters The Way


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## HAZEDAZE (Sep 5, 2006)

hey this site is great much thanks to all.i am used to being a dirt man myself but want to covert what is a good way to set up a hydro systeam i do understand the idea behind it just dont have the money to go for the high end stuff if u can explain a cheaper alternative i would be gratefull if the money is need explain about how much is a good starting amount with a list of main peices one more time thatnks in advance


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## Widow Maker (Sep 5, 2006)

POETIC said:


> In Terms Of Quality Would You Say Waters The Way


I think water is better but soil taste better.


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## Widow Maker (Sep 5, 2006)

Dr. Greenthumb said:


> How often do you have to flush the water in a hydro system?


Flush ever week to two weeks.


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## JesuZ (Oct 15, 2006)

completly new to hydro system...
can anyone help out??


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## dcyans (Oct 15, 2006)

Widow Maker said:


> Flush ever week to two weeks.


Depends on the system bro I've done plenty of no flush grows and believe me I was dead against it for a long time until I started using Lucas's formula and recommended addbacks. you would think of course that some of the element salts would build up to toxic levels but it really doesn't come into play as you would thing when you properly manage your nutrient solutions. I will still recommend especially for beginners res changes every two weeks but not before that is only wasting nutrients as well as adding extra waste to the environment.


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## RESQ (Oct 18, 2006)

seems each system type requires different water consumptions. mr green says 3 times a day, one says flood 5 times a day, what is the recomended water/mixes to apply? a continual drip? a mist from above? Bubbleponics? a continuous flow from a bubbleponics style set will be ok and not overwater???


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## potroast (Oct 18, 2006)

The type and timing of irrigation in a hydro system should be determined by the medium used. The denser the medium, the longer it will retain water. But that means less room for air in there. That's why dense media like rockwool and coir fiber are used, because of their good water retention, as well as the ability to maintain sufficient amounts of air even when wet.

For dense media, a drip system is best because of the water column that goes downward in a cone shape. Dripping into looser media like growrocks doesn't work as well because the water column is more like a straight-sided tube.

For growrocks, it's best to flood and drain. That pushes all of the stale air out of the rocks, and sucks fresh air in.

For no media, as in aero or NFT, the roots are bathed constantly.

For each system, you should experiment with the irrigation timing to find the optimal for your medium, so your plants always have everything they want.

HTH


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## RESQ (Nov 10, 2006)

So far so good...




This is a bubbleponics setup with an air stone in it.


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## flyhi2112 (Jan 19, 2007)

hi you just wantin to know iam thinking of paying round £400 for a setup. do you think thats to much thanks for your time


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## cheech (Jan 24, 2007)

fuck yea, this kicks ass


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## panheadcharlie (Feb 6, 2007)

good morning world .how the hello are ya .just got a ? for ya .how hard is it to set up a hydro system ? this is what i have. 3 ) 5 gal. buckets (for you people that has problem with waits and measurements its more than a 16oz tall boys.) lol what else .going to try hydro.everybody is raving bout it what so damn good bout it any way......chuckles


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## VictorVIcious (Feb 6, 2007)

waits and measurements?? what are you waitin to measure??lol


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## Al B. Fuct (Feb 18, 2007)

flyhi2112 said:


> hi you just wantin to know iam thinking of paying round &#163;400 for a setup. do you think thats to much thanks for your time


Way waaaay too much. No need to buy packages of crap from hydro shops. 95% of what you need to do hydro is available from a hardware store, including high-pressure sodium (HPS) lights. 

A flood system is cheapest and easiest to set up. The only thing you really *need* from the hydro shop is the nutrient solutions- but more experienced growers can even make up their own. 

Flood trays can be either tailor-made, moulded plastic sorts from the hydro shop or you can gin up your own out of 2x4's, plywood, plastic sheeting and some PVC tubing & fittings. 

HPS security lights from the hardware store will do fine. You can also get horticultural HPS lamps (these have some added blue light) from the hardware store, but the security grade HPS will work fine for flowering. 

Water and air pumps can come from an aquarium shop, usually much more cheaply than from the hydro shop- and they are the very same pumps. Many hardware stores have aquarium pumps sold for garden water features.

Lawn irrigation and garden hose parts from the hardware can be used to make the simplest or fanciest hydro system you like. My system has a valved drain system so I need only twist a couple of knobs and turn on the pumps to drain my tanks. 

Don't be 'sold' by your hydro shop. While they may be convenient and have all your stuff in one place, they are not the one-and-only source for growing gear as many of their salesmen will have you think.


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## HardTimez (Feb 19, 2007)

I dont think anybody should BUY a hydroponics system, there is one big thing about growing is to keep it one the LOW  now why would you go an buy a system, maybe the cops keep an eye on that place...or maybe he keeps a list ? even if you pay with cash...do you think he has a pen handy to write down your plate number? hmm i love the hardware store, plus you look prof. buying there too  the ladies like a man who is a proffesional  just build your own stuff if u smoke weed you have an imagination


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## Nova_Grower (Mar 18, 2007)

do you flush during flowering ,i never did before,should i be?


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## flo power (Mar 19, 2007)

ok i have a ?. 
How offten would one change the solution in a 45 ltr aeroponics container?

By checking my feed with a E.C meter ands it reading to high how do i bring it down? 

im coming in to two my last weeks of flowering "flo" ill post some photos later, My ? is how long do i flush them for and whats the solution?

thanks


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## potroast (Mar 22, 2007)

Nova_Grower said:


> do you flush during flowering ,i never did before,should i be?


If you're running a high ppm feed, it's good to run a day of water every 2-4 weeks during flowering. Some growers just flush once when they change from veg to flower nutes.



flo power said:


> ok i have a ?.
> How offten would one change the solution in a 45 ltr aeroponics container?
> 
> By checking my feed with a E.C meter ands it reading to high how do i bring it down?
> ...


Basic reservoir maintenance would say to change it entirely when you've added back 45 gallons of top off water. Barring that, every 2-4 weeks should suffice.

When you don't top off with plain water, the ppm will continue to rise. Adding plain water will bring it back to original levels.

In aeroponics, a 2-3 day flush before harvest is enough.

HTH


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## odinzu (Mar 30, 2007)

Wes said:


> Hi yall,
> 
> Im a medpot grower living in one of the eleven states where medicinal marijuana has been declared legal! Im hoping that now with the Democrats in the majority, more and more states will realize that they cant keep patients suffering from debilitating illnesses from a healing herb that has been used that way for centuries.
> 
> ...



Very nice post Wes, loving life now. I have learned alot just from reading that =) Thanks again man


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## Al B. Fuct (Mar 30, 2007)

> Originally Posted by *Wes*
> Hi y&#8217;all,
> 
> I&#8217;m a medpot grower living in one of the eleven states where medicinal marijuana has been declared legal! I&#8217;m hoping that now with the Democrats in the majority, more and more states will realize that they can&#8217;t keep patients suffering from debilitating illnesses from a healing herb that has been used that way for centuries.


Looks like med pot advocate Dennis Kucinich is going to be on the Congressional panels dealing with drug policy- and I think you're right, the med pot playing field is going to change dramatically- but not until there's a Dem in the White House. As long as there's a zero-tolerance proponent in 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue, the war on sick people will still continue in earnest...


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## Purple_Ganja (May 9, 2007)

Hey Pot Roast, could you elaborate on proper nute management. My setup is a SH bubbleponic 6 planter kit w/ SH nutes and foliar spray. (2 27 Watt CFLs, 1 CO2 boost bucket. Lets say we're starting from seeds.


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## potroast (May 10, 2007)

Proper nute management means giving your plants everything that they want when they need it. It's simple. 

Obviously, using a meter to know your ppm is the best way, but without that, you can go by the label directions, but don't use what they say. Start with 1/4 strength when the plants are small, and increase it to one half strength as they get bigger. Watch your plants, if they get too strong a ppm mix, they will react, usually with curling down leaf tips, or browning tips. 

How much nutes they will use depends on the other factors of growth, how much light they are getting, etc. Each factor must supply what the plant needs for everything to work properly.

*H*ope *T*his *H*elps


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## iRAYone (May 10, 2007)

Question of PH.... Eb and flow system...rock wool..flowering stages..Ph jumps from 5.8 to 6 2 in 12 hours adding 10 mls of pH down per day. The rtock wool was washed etc....Whats up?


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## flo power (May 12, 2007)

Then he did an experiment. He let the system go dry and it took three and a half hours before the cherry tomato plant showed any signs of water depravation, i.e. wilting. So he set the timer to one minute of watering, and one hour of drying in between each watering. The plants took off like gangbusters!

is this using rockwool , this experiment...


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## herbalicious (May 25, 2007)

potroast said:


> All right! Hydroponics is what I know, and hydroponics is the way I grow!
> 
> This forum will be great, we can discuss anything hydro. No dirtbags here, We haul water!
> 
> ...


Greetings P-roast! I need help. I'm in the planning stages for a 4'x4' grow room in my home (actually it will be built under my deck witch is sbout 7' in height). I don't know if hydro or aero is the way to go. I know little about either. Also I have two very small plants (about 7-8 inches that have grown under some bunk flourescent light). They haven'y grown too much (7-weeks old) because of the weak light but they do look very healthy otherwise.


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## kindprincess (May 25, 2007)

pr, i have a question for you. what can i use as a temporary fix for a cal deff? i'm pulling my hair out worrying. cal/mag is on the way, check my thread...

https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/12512-kp-gets-her-feet-wet-17.html#post148271

kp


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## potroast (May 26, 2007)

herbalicious said:


> Greetings P-roast! I need help. I'm in the planning stages for a 4'x4' grow room in my home (actually it will be built under my deck witch is sbout 7' in height). I don't know if hydro or aero is the way to go. I know little about either. Also I have two very small plants (about 7-8 inches that have grown under some bunk flourescent light). They haven'y grown too much (7-weeks old) because of the weak light but they do look very healthy otherwise.


Greetings to you. Maybe it's just because I'm getting old, but is there a question in there? 

If you want to know which method to use to grow, you answered that question yourself when you said "I know little about either."

Grow your plants in pots of dirt.

HTH


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## potroast (May 26, 2007)

kindprincess said:


> pr, i have a question for you. what can i use as a temporary fix for a cal deff? i'm pulling my hair out worrying. cal/mag is on the way, check my thread...
> 
> https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/12512-kp-gets-her-feet-wet-17.html#post148271
> 
> kp


Well, to be perfectly honest, I don't think that your plants have a deficiency. It may appear that they do, but since you are feeding them a strong mix, there is probably ample calcium in there. Maybe it has been locked up, and therefore is unavailable to the plants though. It's been suggested that you flush the medium, this not only dilutes the concentration of nutes in the medium, it also can unlock compounds that have formed and are unavailable. A clearing product like Clearex, or FloraClear can be added to flush water to help this. Absent a clearing product, a very low concentration of nutes will flush.

HTH


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## kindprincess (May 26, 2007)

i appreciate the help, i uploaded a couple of pix, one of the roots, and one of the leaves. the yellowing is from my light and my camera, in reality, they are a nice emerald. but, the rust spots keep on spreading...

also, i was assuming that i was using a light mix, i started with 1/4 tsp per gallon of each, just over 1ml of each per gallon, no epsom salts.

then, once they started growing well, and the root took off, i upped to what the label say is general purpose light mix. 1tsp per gallon, or 5ml per gallon.

the one who got me into waterfarming suggested that i up my nutes to 8ml per gallon (just over 1 1/2 tsp) and to add one table spoon of epsom per ten gallons.

i only added one table spoon of epsom salts, and my res is 15g...

i'm worried now, i anxiously await a reply... oh, pix on my thread.

should i go back to cutting strength? 5ml per gallon?
kp


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## Roseman (May 26, 2007)

When I obtained my 2nd tank, it allowed me to do many comparison studies and experiments.
The most impressive experiment was draining one tank empty, waiting ten minutes and replinishing it with the same water and nutes. I always got a growth spurt when i changed the water, I'd get a fantastic growth spurt. After a while, i leanred I didn't have to add NEW water and nutes to get that growth spurt. After many test, I am certain that exposing hydroponic roots to air, allowing them to breath for 5 to 15 minutes really excites them to growth., even when adding back the same water and nutes. I am afraid to go beyond the 15 minutes of dryness. 
I saw a remarkable difference when I added a 2nd and then a 3rd airstone is what gave me the idea.
Now, at less than 2 weeks, I suggest changing the water every ten to 14 days. After the roots are dangling in the water, I change it every 7 to 10 days, and after they are 8 weeks old, I drain and replinish as often as I can, even if I am adding back the same nutes and water. 
This supports the big post up above.


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## Roseman (May 27, 2007)

JesuZ said:


> completly new to hydro system...
> can anyone help out??


To start with "HYDRO" means water. remember H2O ? the H = Hydrogen, thus *Hydro or Hydroponics.* 
Normally we grow pot outdoors, in soil, as weather, especially the seasons, permit.
Normally you'd plant outdoors, in dirt, in April or May........then harvest when the first frost is approaching, around September or October. (I am going to make a point) All this averages 6 months and the plants are getting light half the day and darkness the other half. And it rains on ocasions, or the pot is watered every 2 to 5 days. And when it is rained on, (or watered) it gets food (nuttrients) then. AND A SMALL AMOUNT OF OXYGEN gets to the roots WHEN IT RAINS OR IS WATERED. Again this cycle takes over 6 months.
Well, if you grow indoors, and control the lights, you can give them lights 24/7, meaning lights 24 hrs a day, 7 days a week. That alone can cut those 6 months in half, to 3 months, since you are doubling the light. AND since you control the climate, (temp and humidity) and you control the water and nutes, (again 24/7) you can grow pot in water, HYDROPONICALLY, and deliver oxygen to the roots 24/7 with BUBBLEPONICS, 
and* TA DA !* POT TWICE AS FAST AND TWICE AS HEALTHY. 
IF YOU DO EVERYTHING RIGHT!
and IF YOU CAN READ, YOU CAN LEARN HOW, SIMPLE, FAST AND EASY!


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## dhiren (Jun 10, 2007)

hey, im gonna start growing was wondering which system i should purchase.. eBay: 10 PLANT DRIP HYDROPONICS SYSTEM + HYDRO CD HYDROPONIC (item 200117737537 end time Jun-09-07 11:51:37 PDT) 
OR 
eBay: 6 plant Hydroponic Grow System with organic nutrients (item 280123163176 end time Jun-10-07 20:54:31 PDT)


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## iRAYone (Jun 11, 2007)

I like giving my plants the best....Like a fine wine....I change my water every 7 to 10 days. I flush with Clearex 2.5 ounces per 5 gal H20. I use deionized water. on my last watering I flush 3 times the size of the container
IE: one quart planters = 3 quarts flush solution. Then I flush with plain water. Be sure to adjust the PH to 5.5 to 6.0


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## saine420 (Jun 26, 2007)

I agree with Wes. I am also using Advanced Nutrients and could not be happier with the results or the incredible tec support. Its so nice to know there ate tecs. using and trying ideas and tactits using the same nutrients my girls are on. The support staff is incredible and so is their products. Advanced Nutrients makes products fro everything so you dont have to swich companys for different solutions.. If you never looked into them I would recomend them for your hydro grow. I wanna thank everyone on this site. You guys are amazing and have some incredible advice.. Thanks for sharing your experienced brains with all of us wanting to grow ours.. Its nice to see people into this as much or more than me.. Lets make the world green and smell like skunk!! hahahaha .. Thanks again all!! 


Wes said:


> Hi yall,
> 
> Im a medpot grower living in one of the eleven states where medicinal marijuana has been declared legal! Im hoping that now with the Democrats in the majority, more and more states will realize that they cant keep patients suffering from debilitating illnesses from a healing herb that has been used that way for centuries.
> 
> ...


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## chulo (Sep 8, 2007)

I'm completely new to hydroponics can anyone help? what i need as far as equipment


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## panheadcharlie (Sep 9, 2007)

potroast said:


> All right! Hydroponics is what I know, and hydroponics is the way I grow!
> 
> This forum will be great, we can discuss anything hydro. No dirtbags here, We haul water!
> 
> ...


 hey pot is ebb better than aero or are both trial and era just starting to do hydro was dirt got to see which is better . if you have any tips please feel free to pass on . doing the ebb thing . panhead


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## art2 (Sep 9, 2007)

potroast said:


> All right! Hydroponics is what I know, and hydroponics is the way I grow!
> 
> This forum will be great, we can discuss anything hydro. No dirtbags here, We haul water!
> 
> ...


I just put my first seeds in "Rapid Rooter" starter plugs in a pan then covered with another pan. I didn't have enough $ to get a good light yet so I got a florescent. I've got a nice 3X4' closet space to work with. I want to try the flood method for my first hydro attempt. Any Advice ???


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## panheadcharlie (Sep 13, 2007)

well i guess nobody knows what the fu-- there doing .all mouth and no knowlegde.....


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## pmoore68 (Sep 13, 2007)

Aero is better.be careful that you know what you are doing.Follow directions carefully.


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## Gyp (Sep 13, 2007)

If you're just starting out, go with ebb an flow or a bubbler, aero is a bit more advanced.


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## Hydronoob (Sep 13, 2007)

Oh yea, what is an excellent water temp. to keep in my res. for both vegging and flowering periods?


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## massmurda420 (Sep 13, 2007)

me and my dad atre thinkin of mpurchasin a hydro kit 
but i dont know where i should look and which i should use 
we are just growing like 4-5 plants for personal use.


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## potroast (Sep 14, 2007)

panheadcharlie said:


> hey pot is ebb better than aero or are both trial and era just starting to do hydro was dirt got to see which is better . if you have any tips please feel free to pass on . doing the ebb thing . panhead





art2 said:


> I just put my first seeds in "Rapid Rooter" starter plugs in a pan then covered with another pan. I didn't have enough $ to get a good light yet so I got a florescent. I've got a nice 3X4' closet space to work with. I want to try the flood method for my first hydro attempt. Any Advice ???


Ebb&flow, flood&drain, that's a great place to start with active hydro! Grow your plants in an inert media and flood it a couple of times a day, either automatically using timers and pumps, or manually. Aero may be better, but it takes a lot of time and dedication.

HTH


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## potpimp (Oct 23, 2007)

Dr. Greenthumb said:


> How often do you have to flush the water in a hydro system?


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## billybob88 (Oct 23, 2007)

i love how people get on here and are like "can you tell me how to setup up a complete hydroponics system, im completely new and have no idea where to start." It makes me chuckle.


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## Lamafia ck (Nov 4, 2007)

i got a ph problem i'll check the ph every night and every night is around 7 i always bring it down to 5.2 but it wont stay at 5.2 i checkd it this morning and its already 7
the bottom leaves r yellowing and i have no idea wat to do ???
i use around 4 gallon of poland spring water i never used tap water i sterelize my system every week and i have no clue wats making the ph go up


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## panheadcharlie (Nov 5, 2007)

Lamafia ck said:


> i got a ph problem i'll check the ph every night and every night is around 7 i always bring it down to 5.2 but it wont stay at 5.2 i checkd it this morning and its already 7
> the bottom leaves r yellowing and i have no idea wat to do ???
> i use around 4 gallon of poland spring water i never used tap water i sterelize my system every week and i have no clue wats making the ph go up


 lamafia your ph will go up and down i was having the same problem i took the ness, precation got my ph rite feed my plants waited a few hours to filter . up agian read up on my problem the book ( mr greenhead)said it will and then it will even out . why 5.2 on your ph . i read 6.4 was best for nut. up take .like to know for my knowledge just had 3 ( 1 sno white 2 grimilyn)to go hermmi on me. so inlightin me please..............chuck


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## Lamafia ck (Nov 5, 2007)

thanks for the help chuck


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## billybob88 (Nov 5, 2007)

5.8 is the best ph in hydroponics


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## panheadcharlie (Nov 6, 2007)

billybob88 said:


> 5.8 is the best ph in hydroponics


 billybob thanks for the info. ya know book knowledge and doing knowledge is a whole lot of different knowledge . ...............thanks chuck


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## iRAYone (Nov 6, 2007)

Hi
I had the same problem. In deionized water there is no PH buffer???(as I am told) I use part deionized and part RO. in a 50/50 mix. I start my system at 5.5 and everyday it goes up one point at the end of the week I am 6.5. I let the ph go up because the plant will take up different nutes at different PH. 5.8 is best.Rock wool will increase the pH as well I use coconut mix. Hope that helps.


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## ripabg (Nov 6, 2007)

Yeah my ph fluctuates and i have a 33 gal res filled 1/3 way, and i t fluctualtes avery nite,,,, why?


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## potroast (Nov 7, 2007)

Here is part of one of the best explanations that I have found on the subject: I'll highlight some good points.



> Most varieties of vegetables grow at their best in a nutrient solution having a pH between 6.0 and 7.5 and a nutrient temperature between 20 and 22 degrees Celsius
> 
> In low light ( overcast days or indoor growing environments) plants take up more potassium and phosphorous from the nutrient solution so the acidity increases (pH drops). In strong intense light (clear sunny days) plants take up more nitrogen from the nutrient solution so the acidity decreases (pH rises). pH can be controlled in two ways.
> 
> ...


Hey, It's me, I'm back. Yeah, I know that this is just some other guys write up, but it jives with everything that I have read on the subject.

HTH


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## pmoore68 (Nov 7, 2007)

The fact that it fluctuates could be a sign also that you are taking in nutes.As the water level goes down and the nutes are taken in the ppm changes,temp changes etc.Stay on it you are fine.


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## iRAYone (Nov 7, 2007)

Wow That was great!!!!!! Thanks for the info.


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## ripabg (Nov 7, 2007)

u know Mr. Potroast, i have found that the best info is contained within your posts, thank you!


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## potroast (Nov 8, 2007)

Why soitainly, nyuk, nyuk, nyuk. 


I appreciate the kudos, and the thanks for my help. I do it because I like to help, and spread the knowledge. But it's nice to get some rep points, too. While I get a lot of thank yous, hardly anyone clicks on my rep. I've always wondered why that was.

Happy growing!


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## ripabg (Nov 8, 2007)

I just repd u! fo shizzle, ur the man, i have another queston for u. . Why do my leaves have spots on them? the Ph has been flying up and down is that it? how bad is that? recovery time? solution?


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## potroast (Nov 9, 2007)

The leaves are usually the first to show that something is not right, and once they are damaged, they will not recover. They may still do their job, but not as well as could be. The only thing you can do is fix the problem, and let the plant do as best as she can.

HTH


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## ripabg (Nov 9, 2007)

Thank you!


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## Earl (Dec 10, 2007)

Hydronoob said:


> Oh yea, what is an excellent water temp. to keep in my res. for both vegging and flowering periods?


65-68ºF is the optimum temp for hydro.


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## Earl (Dec 10, 2007)

Lamafia ck said:


> i got a ph problem i'll check the ph every night and every night is around 7 i always bring it down to 5.2 but it wont stay at 5.2 i checkd it this morning and its already 7
> the bottom leaves r yellowing and i have no idea wat to do ???
> i use around 4 gallon of poland spring water i never used tap water i sterelize my system every week and i have no clue wats making the ph go up


Spring water is not Distilled or RO water 
and your pH fluctuation is due to the *minerals* in the Spring Water.


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## Earl (Dec 10, 2007)

Roseman said:


> When I obtained my 2nd tank, it allowed me to do many comparison studies and experiments.
> The most impressive experiment was draining one tank empty, waiting ten minutes and replinishing it with the same water and nutes. I always got a growth spurt when i changed the water, I'd get a fantastic growth spurt. After a while, i leanred I didn't have to add NEW water and nutes to get that growth spurt. After many test, I am certain that exposing hydroponic roots to air, allowing them to breath for 5 to 15 minutes really excites them to growth., even when adding back the same water and nutes. I am afraid to go beyond the 15 minutes of dryness.
> I saw a remarkable difference when I added a 2nd and then a 3rd airstone is what gave me the idea.


I think you discovered aeroponics.

I turned my DWC into a aero tub 
by adding a drain, a rez and a pump.


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## billybob88 (Dec 10, 2007)

those are some browno roots bro


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## Earl (Dec 11, 2007)

It's my camera skills and not the roots.
The color is hard to get right in the tub.


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## VictorVIcious (Dec 11, 2007)

Earl said:


> It's my camera skills and not the roots.
> The color is hard to get right in the tub.


When you harvest could ou take some pictures of that top. I'd like to see how you hooked those sprayers on if you don't mind. Did n't mean to jump your thread potroast, just looks different and I'm the curious sort. VV


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## GanjaRasta (Dec 30, 2007)

my brother manages atlantis hydroponics in Athens Georgia


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## potroast (Dec 31, 2007)

Cool. 

Can we get a discount?


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## herbose (Jan 1, 2008)

potroast said:


> All right! Hydroponics is what I know, and hydroponics is the way I grow!
> 
> This forum will be great, we can discuss anything hydro. No dirtbags here, We haul water!
> 
> ...


 
Hey Potroast......great forum, lots of useful info. Here's my question.
I recently started my first hydro gro. I purchased a General Hydro Waterfarm eight pack, set it up and filled it with plain water. City water is max 200ppm with calcium and magnesium under 34ppm max. The day I filled it the water was 170ppm. As soon as the water reached the fourth bucket in each of the two rows the h2o was over 600ppm. I assume it was from the h20 dripping through the new hydroton rocks. Have you ever run across this problem? Makes it very difficult to adjust nutes, I don't really know what's in the water. Any suggestions?
Gro started out a bit shaky but the ladies seem very happy for 3 weeks.


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## potroast (Jan 2, 2008)

Did you rinse the hydroton well before use? I've never heard of that large an increase in ppm from only growrocks, but every new system needs some time for break-in. One easy thing about hydro, all you need to do is change the res.

Thanks for the pictures. The close-up shows the first effects of overferting, the slightly brown, curled tips. Young plants don't need as stong a nute mix.

HTH


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## herbose (Jan 2, 2008)

Potroast,
Didn't think of rinsing the rocks, obviously should have. I kept the nutes to about 150ppm over what was already in the water. Should I have run plain water for a couple of days? The plants looked awful immediatley, I thought they were going to die. I think the 1000w MH light might have been a bit too much for new clones also. I went back to fluorescent for a week and a half til they perked up. Now they're growing amazingly fast.
Thanks for the diagnosis.


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## massbaster (Jan 5, 2008)

for anyone wanting to know more about pH and its properties/adjustment, there is a chart called a titration curve. do a search and you will find more than enough info about what pH is, how its measured and how to develop 
a titration curve to accurately adjust pH balance to desired levels.

this info will also explain why there is such a drastic change in pH if making adjustments is done incorrectly.

i just got an aerogarden and will try to apply these techniques.

i woould have posted this under the arerogarden thread but its closed.

hope this helps anyone whose interested.


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## 213ogKUSH (Jan 6, 2008)

i just wanted to know if my 1 sq. cubic feet indoor hydro system can handle 3 clones of og. and its like 4 feet tall for growing space. im going to have short ass plants,right


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## Tomei (Jan 7, 2008)

I'm a new grower, using a General Hydroponics AeroFlo system, with coconut pots and clay stones. The plants I have are going into their 8th week of veg., and very healthy. 

I guess my question is this: As the plants go into flowering, producing buds, do the roots need any additional support in the chambers to prevent the plant from tipping over? 

Thanks in advance


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## hobo45 (Jan 8, 2008)

if someone could, i need to know the best way. i am going to build my own, first timer here.


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## CaliGurl (Jan 15, 2008)

herbose said:


> Potroast,
> Didn't think of rinsing the rocks, obviously should have. I kept the nutes to about 150ppm over what was already in the water. Should I have run plain water for a couple of days? The plants looked awful immediatley, I thought they were going to die. I think the 1000w MH light might have been a bit too much for new clones also. I went back to fluorescent for a week and a half til they perked up. Now they're growing amazingly fast.
> Thanks for the diagnosis.


Dont know much bout hydro but I would have to agree the 1000MH too much for clones, especially if they where just cut, haev to let them relax a bit.


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## ganji2 (Jan 18, 2008)

Very nice thread. I'm getting started in hydroponics, and this info helps alot! Thanks bud.


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## fromagebleu (Jan 21, 2008)

I am having my first adventures in hydroponics and making plenty of mistakes - I bought Botanica's little micro garden ebb and flow kit thing - unfortunately, it's a bit on the cheesy side. When the tank below is full of water, the sides spread so the top with the plant pots falls in. I used bungie cords across the top and that works, but it also doesn't drain that well - even with shimming, the water isn't flowing out as well as I would like to see. The pots are really flimsy and the grow medium is light and fluffy so they float away and fall over, spilling peat moss etc into the bottom when the water comes in. I think I will use it for my future clones, but at the moment I have several monsters and several little guys and gals that didn't really catch up. So much to learn.

So got a General Hydro bucket (the square one)which has not arrived yet, and hydroton rocks and will try that on my big girl - an Orange Bud doing obvious girl pre-flowering. My one skunk is huge but still not clearly pre-flowering. I think it's a male but not quite far enough for my amateur eyes. And my pH meter is busted. Just got a tester for TDS, etc - it's a two-way with temperature compensation and was not expensive. Not sure it's good - it's a COM100 - WATERPROOF EC / TDS / TEMP COMBO METER. Just got it and have not used it.

I must say that it's just a tad daunting, and not cheap, to get set up - I got a 4" exhaust fan system with intake low and out high put in but can't afford the big charcoal filter - am using layers of cuttable furnace charcoal filter material which considering I don't have a lot of plants and do have a medical card should do okay. I put in white shower stall plastic tile in my 5x5 walk-in closet space along with a 400 watt dual hood which works well, reflects the white tile board nicely. Humidity is about 50%, temp 78-80 when lights are on. 

I will put my 250 with veg light in the greenhouse and after my big Orange Bud girl is done blooming, try to save her as a clone mommy. I think the micro garden thing will work nicely for clones, but will put the Orange Bud in the bucket for the size she is wanting to be. I started 7 more seeds (if they sprout) in my aerogarden which seems pretty decent for starting seeds and getting them to 3-4 leaf sets. Will try moving them to greenhouse until they preflower, then into the inside grow room. 

I do like how things grow with hydro, though. Even though it's a bit of a bitch, I like it a lot. What mistakes am I making in the above? I already made plenty of mistakes and would like not to make more as I am in danger of running low while I have medical needs that are high. I figure the cloning is the fastest way for me to keep the supply coming while I wait for it to be time to grow outside. 

How'm I doing?


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## herbose (Jan 21, 2008)

Hello Blue Cheese, sounds like you're enjoying the adventure. You have a lot of plants, hope you're not putting them all in one waterfarm bucket. I started with a GH waterfarm 8 pack 5 1/2 weeks ago. It's working great but I have had to make some major changes to suit my perfectionist personality. A single bucket is probably a lot simpler. 
The hydro takes a lot of attention but it's worth it.
One possible complication is trying to harvest a plant then turn it into a mother. I think it can be done by cloning and then reverting it to veg which takes a lot of time. You're better off taking some cuttings before it flowers and starting that way. Save you probably three weeks. 
You sound like a handy guy, you'll figure out how to solve the problems as they appear.
By the way...congratulations on your excellent spelling and grammar, a rare thing on this forum.
I'd send pictures of my setup but lights are out and I don't want to confuse the ladies. Let me know if you're interested, I'll send tomorrow.


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## herbose (Jan 21, 2008)

Blue Cheese, you REALLY need a ph tester for hydro. The ph changes in mystical ways and you have to keep a handle on it. Ph strips will do in a pinch. I bought a Control Wizard from New England Hydro (nehydro.com), $43 plus shipping, works great. Don't drop it in the water
Good luck.


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## potroast (Jan 22, 2008)

fromagebleu said:


> How'm I doing?



It sounds like you are doing just great! Your room is perfect, and your hydro experiences will work out well. It takes a couple of crops to get things right.

For your mothers, you would ideally like to clone from a plant that has not been induced to flower. A mother can be a clone from a known female, or a seed plant that has been verified female by inducing a cutting.

Welcome to Rollitup!

HTH


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## Mobbstyle (Jan 23, 2008)

Hello everyone, I would like to know what is the best system for a new grower. The closet space is about 4 feet long and 8 feet high.


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## southfloridasean (Jan 23, 2008)

try the sun leaves planter of ease or general hydroponics water farm hydroponic systems. The sunleaves system is aeroponic while the general hydroponic is a drip system from the halo which hangs over the plant.


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## roadguy (Jan 25, 2008)

I use a PT garden from Future Harvest Development. Several diffrent sizes, can be drip or aero. Come complete. Been using the PT36 Balcony drip system for about 5-6 years. Works great easy to manage. Just moved it into a hydro hut, its sweet. The PT cam with full instructions for best results, live by them.


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## roadguy (Jan 25, 2008)

Cali girl, very little light on clones, I use 2 t5 6400k full spectrum. also use a product called propogator from future harvest development. I am also a huge believer in Vitam B, helps plant get through stress, just like us. By the way if that pic is u, looks pretty nice.


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## roadguy (Jan 25, 2008)

Mobbstyle said:


> Hello everyone, I would like to know what is the best system for a new grower. The closet space is about 4 feet long and 8 feet high.


Mobbstlye, you can go to any hydro store and buy a simple bucket system that will have everything you need. It is a top feed drip system, best for newbees. You can have one bucket to ten and add and take away as you need. Make sure you are using a good clean food line, something that clog your system and something that is easy. I have ben using a three part product called holland secret (bada bing, Bada Bang, Buda bloom). Yeah I know funny name but it is truley the best product i have used. Real clean and easy to use, also ph buffered to make life a little more simple. With the bucket system you use a small rez for your food and larger rez for water feed that is controled by a float valve. From your food rez your pump pushes feed to the top of buckets, then is feed back to your rez to recirculate by grazity. Any hydro store should be able to set you up fairly cheaply.
Good luck


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## FLBud (Jan 25, 2008)

Hey guys I have a couple of questions. I have been reading around RIU and I see some people prefer a PH of 5.3 to 5.8 and I see some people believe in keeping the PH at 5.8 to 6.3 (which I keeping my ph at 6.3) What happens if you r having trouble keeping you PH consistant I heard someone say something about PH Lockdown? What does this do.

My other question is about food Value.. I am in the vegatative stage and Im keeping my TDS at 900 to 980. Is this too high for that stage..

Little info about my system I am using a 10 gallon resivour for 3 plants. I am also using General Hydroponics Nutrients. Does anyone have some good advice for this first time grower.


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## potroast (Jan 26, 2008)

The pH of a solution will determine what minerals are available to the plant to use as food. The best pH to use will vary with the medium, and method of growing. So we talk about a range of values as being the best. For hydro the best is 5.5-5.9, but will work just fine from 5.2-6.2. For soil, the best is 6.3-6.5, but will work just fine from 5.8-6.8, but we don't bother talking about soil in here. 

If the nutrient solution is out of that range, the minerals may combine into a compound that can't be used, so those nutes are locked out. They are still there, and read on your TDS meter, but can't be used, and the plant will go without.

Your nutrient solution strength depends on the other growing factors like light and fresh air. If your plants need more they will tell you, so continue at that level until flowering. A ppm of 900 is about 5ml/gallon of each part, and that is a good middle ground for those nutes.

HTH


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## FLBud (Jan 26, 2008)

Ok thanks for the Help PotRoast... Im growing in rockwool for my medium. I will post some pics later today. How can you tell you have a Lockout of nutrients?? Can you do anything to fix that Nut Lockout?? And what are some of the effects of a Nut Lockout??


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## thunderchunkie (Jan 26, 2008)

Hi Y'all. The pH level in my reservoir is continually at 7.4. Is there any specific product out there that is good for lowering the pH without screwing up the plants? I haven't planted anything yet, so I'm just doing a test run right now, but seeing as this is my first grow with an aeroponic system, I'd like to get everything as bang-on as I can.


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## potroast (Jan 27, 2008)

FLBud said:


> Ok thanks for the Help PotRoast... Im growing in rockwool for my medium. I will post some pics later today. How can you tell you have a Lockout of nutrients?? Can you do anything to fix that Nut Lockout?? And what are some of the effects of a Nut Lockout??




Duh!

( - ficiency ) 

When nutes are locked out, the plant can't use them, so it shows up as a deficiency. So at the first sign of any problem, you just change the res.

HTH


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## potroast (Jan 27, 2008)

thunderchunkie said:


> Hi Y'all. The pH level in my reservoir is continually at 7.4. Is there any specific product out there that is good for lowering the pH without screwing up the plants? I haven't planted anything yet, so I'm just doing a test run right now, but seeing as this is my first grow with an aeroponic system, I'd like to get everything as bang-on as I can.



Any acid will do it, but some are better than others. It's best to use an acid that will provide something the plant will use. Phosphoric Acid and Nitric Acid will do that, or any hydro pH Down.

And don't bang on your system, that doesn't help. 

HTH


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## Aceshigh (Jan 27, 2008)

I changed my rez and im keeping my ph from 6.0 to 5.3.. now a couple of my rez the ph keeps drop to like 4.8. is there anything out there that I can use to stabize my ph?


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## Aceshigh (Jan 27, 2008)

I have had to bring my ph up 5 times today bc it kept wanting to drop in the 4.5 to 4.9 range. Now im trying to keep them from 5.3 to 6.0. Is there something wrong that im doing or do I have root rot?


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## fromagebleu (Jan 28, 2008)

I bought a bucket to add to my ebb & flow micro garden and the bucket is easier to deal with for sure. I am hoping the micro will be good for clones, but don't know yet. What I DO know is there is a fair amount to learn about all this. I am really happy with Cervantes big grow bible - its so packed with the information I need. But absorbing all that knowledge in a big gulp isn't entirely possible. Having you folks on-line and reading your posts is a real help, and adds a personal factor that helps make it not quite so isolating when I am new to this via medical needs and don't yet have a local community. It's hard to do all the work with physical debility and when I don't have the help I need on-site. So thanks a lot for being here and I am thrilled at having a couple of big beautiful plants, one preflowered girl for sure and another that I assume will show as soon as I get them into bloom this next weekend. Also 7 seedlings. And I realize that for my tiny grow room, keeping a mother or two outside in veg in the greenhouse and putting in clones is probably going to be my most efficient move. But I learn something every day so may have entirely different views next week. I wanted to do a real grow journal, but what with working full time, health issues, etc., it's hard. Still I will try to photograph what I do have and upload it. I am not sure where the journal threads live - still finding it awkward to get around here - but I will locate it. The plants are just so beautiful.

One thing I note - local grow shops vary. One I tried had a shyster who didn't actually know what he was talking about and tried to sell me stuff I didn't need. I tried another and found a guy with real pride in his own experience and helping others. I am fortunate to have someone like him local. 

Again, thanks for being here, folks. I am still a couple months out from my first crop and I know I may run into problems, but I have you to come to if I get in trouble.


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## roadguy (Jan 28, 2008)

FLBud said:


> Ok thanks for the Help PotRoast... Im growing in rockwool for my medium. I will post some pics later today. How can you tell you have a Lockout of nutrients?? Can you do anything to fix that Nut Lockout?? And what are some of the effects of a Nut Lockout??


FLBud,
I use a tool called a tri meter, measures ph temp, and tds/ppm
I find this very usefull and was great when I was learning (still am after 6 years)
If you PH is to high or to low it will lock out your food. If you are using a meter you will see this in your ppm, it will not go down as useual because your plant isnt takeing anything up. Also, if your ph is messed you can use ph up or down bought from any hydro store to fox it, but I would want to figure out why my ph is going up or down. Could be your food. I have used some that dropped the ph hugely. Other like what I use know are ph buffered so if your good with just water you are good when you add the food. This I find to be helpfull because when you ph does go up/down your food is one less reason.


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## roadguy (Jan 28, 2008)

Aceshigh said:


> I have had to bring my ph up 5 times today bc it kept wanting to drop in the 4.5 to 4.9 range. Now im trying to keep them from 5.3 to 6.0. Is there something wrong that im doing or do I have root rot?


Aceshigh,
Could be root rot, when was the last time you rinsed you system completly. Also check your rez temp, if that is high (above 70) it will mess with you ph. 
I would check your roots first, one look should tell you, you should be able to root rot as well. If they are, I would do a full rince and clean on my system. I have use a product called Plantacillin to rid me of root rot. It works well at helping rid root rot and gives plants sort of a shot in the arm to help fend off problems. Also use a Vitam B called Super B. Big help on decreasing stree in you plants.


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## roadguy (Jan 28, 2008)

hey blue cheese,
I am real familiar with the hydro stores in most areas, (past life) if you give me aprox area I may be able to recomend the best to offer. Every little bit helps. With clones i use a product called propogator made by future harvest development. Great for building root mass.


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## Aceshigh (Jan 29, 2008)

Well I was finally able to get my ph to stabalize... After countless hours researching calling my friends and numerous other things, I finally was told to flood my trays in the desired ph range that I wanted. So I brought my PH up to about 6.4 but that makes its 6.2 at the roots. So I pluged my trays and let them soak in that solution. After an hour I let the water run out and turned my pumps back on. I havent had to mess witht the PH for the past 2 days. It atcually went up a little bit because my plants starting eating again. So I just added a little GH mix to restore the lost food and bring my ph back to 6.2. I think Im finally getting the hang of this. Thanks for all of the help u guys have given me here!!!!!


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## hydronewbie (Feb 2, 2008)

I just joined and posted my first thread a couple days ago.. Got a couple views but no replies, I was wondering why then after reading about how to never buy a complete hydro setup either online or from a store I knew why.. In my thread i showed all the equipment that i thought i needed. the most expensive thing being the hydro NFT setup shown here at this link below for 500.00 dollars. I thought that was a great deal, but i didnt realize that i could just as easily build one for half the cost.. I have done a good bit of reading on growing ie:soil vs. hydro and I would choose to try hydro as my personal favorite.. I have a spare bedroom in which I will be able to use. It is about 10x10x7ft. and wanted the NFT system for the 6 plants.. Any help on how to build a efficient NFT system similiar to the one at the link, would be appreciated.. Again, thanks in advance for all the help.. 
HydroNewbie


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## fromagebleu (Feb 4, 2008)

Roadguy, I am in the Corvallis area. I found one "good" store and one not so hot. What do you think? Both these places are newer than 6 months.

Hydronewbie, I went through the same damned thing - it's been kind of expensive learning, but there's a lot to learn. It's cool, though. I have altered my plans a number of times. I thought because I have such a tiny grow room that it might be easier, but really you have to learn the same stuff. After paying $$ for seeds, I will only do seeds when I want something new to clone. Am now all set up to clone but just put babies in bloom - 1 clear cut preflower female I can grab a couple of clones off, but mostly plants of every different height - difficult to deal with having the microgarden set-up - it will be fine for clones, but all my seedlings ended up different sizes. 

Lots to learn; nice to have you folks around, new and old, to bounce things off of.


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## roadguy (Feb 4, 2008)

fromagebleu said:


> Roadguy, I am in the Corvallis area. I found one "good" store and one not so hot. What do you think? Both these places are newer than 6 months.
> 
> Hydronewbie, I went through the same damned thing - it's been kind of expensive learning, but there's a lot to learn. It's cool, though. I have altered my plans a number of times. I thought because I have such a tiny grow room that it might be easier, but really you have to learn the same stuff. After paying $$ for seeds, I will only do seeds when I want something new to clone. Am now all set up to clone but just put babies in bloom - 1 clear cut preflower female I can grab a couple of clones off, but mostly plants of every different height - difficult to deal with having the microgarden set-up - it will be fine for clones, but all my seedlings ended up different sizes.
> 
> Lots to learn; nice to have you folks around, new and old, to bounce things off of.


Fromage,
Hey try these two places, Corvallis Hydroponics, new store but the guy is eager to help and if he doesnt have a answer to your question he can call his sister store in Santa Barbra and get great info. Also you can call a guy in Bend, th store is Bends indoor gardening, speak to the owner Nick. He does mail order and is one of the most knowlagable guys in the industry. Remember, they do not want to know what you are growing. lol


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## hydronewbie (Feb 4, 2008)

I will end up building my own setup sometime in the future after I actually get a year or so of hands on experiance.. But for my first hydro setup I think I will go with the GreenMachine from Future Garden. Someone on here reccomended it saying it was a better bang for my buck, plus its hydro/aeroponics combo.. Which is awesome.. 

Link to Green Machine..
Green Machine 20 w/ 400W HPS @ FUTUREGARDEN.COM


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## thunderchunkie (Feb 4, 2008)

Yo Potroast! How goes it? Do you know anything about salt buildup on hydroton rocks? there is a little bit starting on mine and I'd like to nip this problem in the bud if its going to harm my girlie's. I did make the mistake last Wednesday of getting some spring water for my rez. I dont recall the buildup showing up until after i used it in my rez. I flushed the shit out and I'm back to using tap water, Its easier to control the pH.

I have some pics on my journal. theres very little of it right now.

https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/45296-full-led-grow-room-aeroponic-5.html


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## potroast (Feb 4, 2008)

I guess you mean on the top rocks, the ones that you can see. I don't think it's anything to worry about, it's what is happening down where the roots are that matters.

HTH


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## thunderchunkie (Feb 4, 2008)

Ya, its just on a few of the dry top rocks. thanks bud, was worried there, lol.


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## GrimReefa (Feb 8, 2008)

ripabg said:


> I just repd u! fo shizzle, ur the man, i have another queston for u. . Why do my leaves have spots on them? the Ph has been flying up and down is that it? how bad is that? recovery time? solution?


maybe mites oh no!!!!


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## Eazyman420 (Feb 9, 2008)

I am in the first week of flushing 6 Pure Power Plant girls,(from clones) In a newly aquired Aeroflo 20. My first hydro grow. I just got some Clearex today. It's a Botannicare product. Specifically its a "Nutrient salt leaching solution". I bought it as a flushing aid, along with a "HydroLogic" small-boy de-chlorinator & sediment filtration unit. hoping for a tasty first harvest! The Clearex is used by running it alone with fresh water until the PPM level stablizes. And/Or pouring it onto the hydrotron and the netpot, allowing runoff. Then dumping the water and resume normal res changeout. It did clean the rocks nicely. 
Peace


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## roadguy (Feb 11, 2008)

thunderchunkie said:


> Ya, its just on a few of the dry top rocks. thanks bud, was worried there, lol.


Hey thunder, The salt build up could be from your food. When I change my rez, about every week to ten days I will run clean water over the top of my rocks to help flush out all the extra salts that have built up. I is useally not a problem. There is a product out there called salt be gone, it is just a flusher, more for the last week before pulling. I useally just run straight water at that time, but the food I use is pretty clean to start with.


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## fromagebleu (Feb 11, 2008)

I'm bummed. Learning the ropes isn't all that easy - maybe the pressure to have my medical crop is part of it - will soon be without. So my five plants - four were males. Not happy. Looking forward to clones. But I have my one female plant in bloom cycle now, tho it hasn't done anything since pre-bloom. Can I take clones off it at this stage? It has some nice lower branches. I also have six big seedlings with four to five sets of leaves - skunk #1 and orange bud - can I take clones off them? They are only about three weeks old. How early can I bloom them? I hear different things. Do I wait for pre-bloom? My other skunk really didn't pre-bloom - it just came on with male buds a week after I put it to bloom. It wasn't as obvious as the male orange bud, male afghan and male red shiva. So how early can my seedling go to bloom, can I take clones from them at 3 weeks, 4-5 leave groups, and can I take a clone from my pre-bloomed but not yet blooming large orange bud in bloom cycle?

Thanks! Looking forward to clones and feminized seeds when I need something new.


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## potroast (Feb 11, 2008)

Sure, take those lower branches and root them. If they have been induced to flower, it may take them a little longer to root, but they will be fine.

And your seedlings are not actually mature enough to flower for about 8 weeks, but many indoor growers put them to flower sooner than that. It may take the plant longer to start flowering, and longer to mature, but you can do it. You can take cuttings from any plant that has a suitable branch.

HTH


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## shellerboy56 (Feb 13, 2008)

HardTimez said:


> I dont think anybody should BUY a hydroponics system, there is one big thing about growing is to keep it one the LOW  now why would you go an buy a system, maybe the cops keep an eye on that place...or maybe he keeps a list ? even if you pay with cash...do you think he has a pen handy to write down your plate number? hmm i love the hardware store, plus you look prof. buying there too  the ladies like a man who is a proffesional  just build your own stuff if u smoke weed you have an imagination


Has anybody been arrested because of going to an indoor garden store.


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## fromagebleu (Feb 13, 2008)

Thanks, potroast - will take your advice (not sure why your reply never showed up in my email alert). But I came to moan and lament more - somehow a few days after I put my now single lonely plant into bloom, it turned yellow - in just a couple of days - and then I came home from work today to find my new ballast had gone caput - the ignition, I am assuming. It's probably under warranty, but a bummer. Was lucky to have a 250 with new HPS bulb and only the one plant for now to keep going while but will have to see how long I can keep the seedlings in the aerogarden - they are growing like the weeds they are. I found that the orange buds showed preflowering quite early but really the skunk #1 (my budget variety seeds) never really did pre-flower that this noob could see until I put it in to bloom. I will go ahead and root some of those lower branches on my one bloomer girl, but try to hold off on anything with the seedlings. Thanks again!!


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## stickyicky77 (Feb 13, 2008)

Hey guys, i am having a problem with my seeds. I plant them in rock wool or rapid rooter sponges after they crack and show root. I have even put them in my Aerogarden and they never seem develop or sprout. Could i be soaking the seeds too long and damaging the roots. This is my thred https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/49998-first-time-grow-set-backs.html. Please let me know what you think. Thanks.


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## Mr. Maryjane (Feb 19, 2008)

okay, I'm bout to start a, possibly, large scale DWC grow in a couple weeks. what I can't find is anything specific on nutes. what are the cheapest, but still good, nutes. and how much should I add per gallon


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## Blue Lightng (Feb 19, 2008)

How do you grow hydro do i need a better system i try it befor didnt work i start it in a cup it grew but the leaf turn yellow brown thin it die so i shop grew


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## potroast (Feb 19, 2008)

Mr. Maryjane said:


> okay, I'm bout to start a, possibly, large scale DWC grow in a couple weeks. what I can't find is anything specific on nutes. what are the cheapest, but still good, nutes. and how much should I add per gallon


You want to use hydro nutrients, so find your nearest hydro shop, and see what they carry. General Hydroponics (GH) Flora 3-part is a good one.

HTH


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## potroast (Feb 19, 2008)

Blue Lightng said:


> How do you grow hydro do i need a better system i try it befor didnt work i start it in a cup it grew but the leaf turn yellow brown thin it die so i shop grew



Well, if it was easy, everyone would do it.


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## Mr. Maryjane (Feb 20, 2008)

THANK YOU, POTROAST!!!! you have insured that by fall I will have more pot than I know what to do with.


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## thunderchunkie (Feb 20, 2008)

Out of curiosity for later on in my grow, when should you usually change the light cycle to 12/12? what should the plants look like? And are there different reasons for switching them at different times during a grow for different results?
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/45296-full-led-grow-room-aeroponic.html


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## KholdStare (Feb 20, 2008)

When you change to 12/12 depends on a few things, mainly the space you are working with. If you have a confined space you will want to switch over early while your plants are small to avoid your plants outgrowing your space while flowering. If you have a huge room you can wait until the plants grow large before switching. The bigger the plants when you change the photoperiod the more bud you will get (on average) since the larger plants can sustain larger flowers.


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## thunderchunkie (Feb 20, 2008)

Lol, my room is about 7' tall. I'm using a aeroponic system that only has about 6" between the plants. I'm thinking that I may have do do some funky trimming later on in the budding stage to maximize the yield and keep them from getting all intertwined. I'll check back then when I'm sure I'll need help with the snipping. plus the clippings would be good for clones, cool.


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## potroast (Feb 21, 2008)

When to switch to flowering is almost always a height consideration, but for your aero system, with plants close together, you may want to keep the plants smaller. Anything taller than 2 feet can cause problems with stability in an aero tube. You should consider support trellis, or high netting for plants to grow through.

HTH


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## VictorVIcious (Feb 21, 2008)

potroast said:


> You want to use hydro nutrients, so find your nearest hydro shop, and see what they carry. General Hydroponics (GH) Flora 3-part is a good one.
> 
> HTH


 Hey potroast, what would you have as a ppm for plants 30 days or so old using the Flora series?? VV


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## potroast (Feb 21, 2008)

Well, that's an easy one! Whatever the plants can take. 

That said, the answer is not so cut and dried. It depends on the amount of light they're getting, and the temperature, and if you're adding CO2.

Here's a general thumb rule: 

40w/sqft 800ppm
50w/sqft 1000ppm
60w/sqft 1200ppm

And that doesn't consider supplements, which may decrease the amount of basic salts that you use.

HTH


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## thunderchunkie (Feb 22, 2008)

Yet another question, lol. I've seen alot of ppl on here that go right into the blooming phase with no veg time. Is there an advantage to that except for speed? I'm just curious to know when a good time is to change my Light Cycle to 12/12. Am I looking for a certain amount of nodes on the plant, or is it a height issue? I know I can change them over to 12/12 whenever I like as far as height goes but should the leaf amount be taken into consideration. Height is not really an issue for me, my rooms over 7' tall, lol. Also, do the stalks continue to thicken during the bloom phase?

Ph, also. Whens a good time to sex the plants? Before the blooming stage or just after?


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## potroast (Feb 22, 2008)

Right now you say you don't have a height issue, but later on you may be scrambling. Only 7 foot ceilings, huh? I'll bet your aero system takes up the bottom 2 feet, and the lights take up the top 2 feet, so now you've got 3 feet for plants and whatever. Like I said in post #128, you will induce flowering when your plants are big enough that after at least doubling in size during flowering, they will finish at your desired height.

HTH


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## thunderchunkie (Feb 22, 2008)

lol, sorry bout that. I've read through this entire thread 3 times and my dumb ass must have passed over that 3 times, lmao. thanks anyway potroast


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## shenagen (Feb 23, 2008)

I've seen a lot of posts asking how much water a tray will hold. I just thought I'd share a bit of math.

To find how many gallons a given container will hold: 

Length(in ft.) x width(ft) x depth(ft) x 7.5 = gallons of water
If the measurements aren't exactly even feet, then guesstimate.....1.25ft. 1.5ft. 1.75ft. etc....

Hope someone can find a use for this.


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## smokeyreeferman (Feb 23, 2008)

To find how much a tray/tank will hold you can also take H x W X L in Inches and divide by 230.4


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## thunderchunkie (Feb 24, 2008)

Is it unusual for leaves to get frosty before the budding stage? I'm looking at my Texada Timewarps (sativa) with a 10x magnifying glass and they look like they're starting to get a little frosty, especially the smaller top leaves. And it doesn't look like dust, lol


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## Beeman (Feb 25, 2008)

Hey Pot Roast i have one for you ... first indoor grow ,i have 3 days old seedlings in rock wool cubes just did them with water and they are starting to push threw, when do i start nutrient , these seeds are special not bag weed so i dont want to screw up... anyone willing to hold a totally ignorant hand to prevent a heart atack would be appreciated .. cheers


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## fromagebleu (Feb 25, 2008)

I had to switch my seedlings younger than I would like (4+weeks) due to height - my grow room is also 7 feet tall, but with the light hanging, less than that. My first grow (only one was female) is probably going to push the light (tho I don't know how much stretch to expect from this 10 weeks) so I put the seedlings to bloom early in their ebb and flow - I could put them on the floor, but my grow stage setup was an Aero Garden and I was almost out of room at 4 plus weeks and pretty stretched. But as I am a noob, I am guessing about all this.

I found GH Flora series easier than some others to use. Great for a noob. 

Here's my first shots for my grow j https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/52804-fromage-bleu-s-noobie-grow.html If anyone wants to tell me how tall that skunk #1 10 weeks old on the right is going to get, it would help me out. I got one estimate that it would end up with about an ounce. Need for mmj asap, so anxious to estimate.


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## thunderchunkie (Feb 25, 2008)

I tried the GH Flora series too, but found it extremely gunky in my reservoir. Sinve the first 2 flushes and scrubbing the bottom of my rez, lol. I've switched to DNF A&B. Much clearer and more soluble than for Flora series. No gunk at all. It does work though, I just dont like having to scrub out my rez every 10 days or so, hehe


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## fromagebleu (Mar 3, 2008)

I will watch out for the gunk - my ebb and flow reservoir is kind of a drag - I will look into trying the DNF A&B you recommend. I like my bucket a lot for ease, but not sure it's ideal for growing clones in my space - once I have eight of them they are no longer easy. 

Can anyone suggest the best "sweet" molasses-type bloom addition?


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## We TaRdED (Mar 9, 2008)

hey PR or anyone else that can answer this Q. how can i go from a 1" (supply line) pvc pipe to 1/4" drip line(going to my jets for an aero build), that i will be using for an experimental aeroponic build? what fitting do you suggest i use? also can you give me a link of where to buy one and what it looks like. thanks a buch..


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## thunderchunkie (Mar 9, 2008)

Yo Potroast! I dont remember if I've seen it on here, but do you add anything other than your nutes when you're budding? If so what product do you thinks works the best. I've seen alot of guys on here using molasses. whats up with that? I would think it would sludge up your rez and pump pretty bad.


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## fromagebleu (Mar 10, 2008)

Yeah, thunder, that's what I am asking, too - what's a good sweet nute for buds? Okay potroast, that's two of us askin'.


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## potroast (Mar 10, 2008)

Hey guys, about the fittings for tubing, I think you need a manifold-type dispursement system with that amount of pressure. I haven't worked with that so someone who knows pvc fittings will have to chime in.

About the nutrients, I use some kind of complete hydro nutrient, right now Pure Blend Pro, to grow my plants. That will handle the primary metabolic processes for good growth. What I am always trying to improve on is the secondary metabolic processes, that are typically hindered in hydro growing, with some organic supplements. Right now I use Green Fuse and Floralicious Plus.

HTH


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## Enigma (Mar 11, 2008)

Get the best of both worlds.. Mothers in soil.. daughters in hydro!


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## Enigma (Mar 11, 2008)

potroast said:


> Hey guys, about the fittings for tubing, I think you need a manifold-type dispursement system with that amount of pressure. I haven't worked with that so someone who knows pvc fittings will have to chime in.
> 
> About the nutrients, I use some kind of complete hydro nutrient, right now Pure Blend Pro, to grow my plants. That will handle the primary metabolic processes for good growth. What I am always trying to improve on is the secondary metabolic processes, that are typically hindered in hydro growing, with some organic supplements. Right now I use Green Fuse and Floralicious Plus.
> 
> HTH


 
Check out Roots Organics additives. They are wonderful to be added to any base nutes. Most plants enjoy 1/4 req. str.

If you are already using Pure Blend Pro, check out the Liquid Karma & Cal-Mag Plus for all stages.. Sweet Original Berry and or Sweet Citrus for the flowering stages. Even another option, go cheap and hit Kroger for some Karo!


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## potroast (Mar 12, 2008)

Well, I use Floralicious Plus, which has everything Liquid Karma and HydroGuard have in them plus other stuff. And it's much cheaper and easier to use. The Sweet is mainly citric acid and cane sugar, and ridiculously expensive. I think I've used some mycorrhizae from Roots Organics.

And karo syrup won't do anything good for your hydro plants, and it's not even good on pancakes.

HTH


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## Enigma (Mar 12, 2008)

potroast said:


> Well, I use Floralicious Plus, which has everything Liquid Karma and HydroGuard have in them plus other stuff. And it's much cheaper and easier to use. The Sweet is mainly citric acid and cane sugar, and ridiculously expensive. I think I've used some mycorrhizae from Roots Organics.
> 
> And karo syrup won't do anything good for your hydro plants, and it's not even good on pancakes.
> 
> HTH


 
https://www.rollitup.org/organics/17981-molasses-article-organic-goodness.html


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## Enigma (Mar 12, 2008)

potroast said:


> Well, I use Floralicious Plus, which has everything Liquid Karma and HydroGuard have in them plus other stuff. And it's much cheaper and easier to use. The Sweet is mainly citric acid and cane sugar, and ridiculously expensive. I think I've used some mycorrhizae from Roots Organics.
> 
> And karo syrup won't do anything good for your hydro plants, and it's not even good on pancakes.
> 
> HTH


Check out this link:

https://www.rollitup.org/organics/17981-molasses-article-organic-goodness.html

You might be surprised.

Enigma


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## VictorVIcious (Mar 12, 2008)

Try puitting it in a hydro set up, you might be suprized. You really need to check out Potroasts cred's before you try to instruct him about growing by posting links of articles you have read. He started this thread to help folks like me that were starting hydro, not because he needed instructions, go back and read the first post. VV


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## shenagen (Mar 12, 2008)

Tell em Vic...I just listened to some Victor Wooten and I have some words of wisdom for you.

"Yo Victa...I want you to remember dis....you can't hold no groove if you ain't got no pocket." lol


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## potroast (Mar 13, 2008)

Hey, there's no problem, enigma is OK to point that out. But he is talking about molasses, and he said Karo Syrup. Maybe Karo makes some molasses, too. But for molasses to be useful, it must be Blackstrap Molasses. Or you could use cane sugar, or Sucanat.

Keep the syrup for your pancakes.

HTH


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## Enigma (Mar 13, 2008)

potroast said:


> Hey, there's no problem, enigma is OK to point that out. But he is talking about molasses, and he said Karo Syrup. Maybe Karo makes some molasses, too. But for molasses to be useful, it must be Blackstrap Molasses. Or you could use cane sugar, or Sucanat.
> 
> Keep the syrup for your pancakes.
> 
> HTH


I've used Karo before, worked well. I know it isn't the same as the molasses but it did increase dry weight by about 25% give or take each individual plant.

This sounds like R&D time.. which sugar additive produces a higher yield...

E


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## thunderchunkie (Mar 15, 2008)

can anyone tell me what this looks like to them? Im not sure if its nute deficiency or overnute, i dont have an EC meter so I cant really tell. I have followed the manufactures directions though. its the only leave out of 6 plants to do this but i dont want any future problems. i checked for mites, none found and its not mold or mildew


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## Enigma (Mar 15, 2008)

thunderchunkie said:


> can anyone tell me what this looks like to them? Im not sure if its nute deficiency or overnute, i dont have an EC meter so I cant really tell. I have followed the manufactures directions though. its the only leave out of 6 plants to do this but i dont want any future problems. i checked for mites, none found and its not mold or mildew


Too much nutrients. These plants like 1/4 to 1/2 strength.


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## thunderchunkie (Mar 16, 2008)

well, i topped up my rez with 4 more liters of water, that should cut it down a bit


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## stickyicky77 (Mar 17, 2008)

Hello Potroast. Could you or anyone tell me if the gold spots on the leaves of my larger plants look like nute burn or a k deficiency to you ? I use Foxfarm nutes with Liquid Carma and SubCulture. The large plants are 3 weeks from seed. The spots are only on a few leaves. I check the pH every morning and keep it at 5.8. The ppm is at 575 and on Saturday they are on schedule to go full strength at 700-1000 ppm. The temps during lights on range from 78-85 F and lights off 70-74 F. The humidity stay 30-35% and my fans and ventilation stays on 24-7. The lights are on a 18/6 veg cycle and the pumps 24 hrs. I plan on making them mothers if these two large plants turn out to be females and when they get 24" tall i plan to take clones off of them. I have a 2x2 flood and drain tray under a 400w Super HPS that i will flower the clones in. Click on the photo's for a larger image.


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## potroast (Mar 18, 2008)

Yeah, I can't see anything in those pix. They are too small, and I don't have any clickability on them to make them bigger.

Maybe someone else can see them.


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## thunderchunkie (Mar 18, 2008)

looks like the same thing I've got going on right now on 2 of my plants. i think its nute burn, but thats only my opinion ( based on limited knowledge, haha) take a look at the pics from my previous post and see if it looks the same. all i did was cut my nutes back to 60% of the suggested amount and it hasn't spread anymore


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## stickyicky77 (Mar 24, 2008)

potroast said:


> Yeah, I can't see anything in those pix. They are too small, and I don't have any clickability on them to make them bigger.
> 
> Maybe someone else can see them.


Are these better?


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## thunderchunkie (Mar 26, 2008)

Ive read on here in a few different post that ppl add Hydrogen Peroxide tho their rez's to help clean the lines/nozzles and such. ive also read that it can be used to get alot of the unwanted crap off of your roots if they start browning. i havent been able to find out exactly how much should be added though. anyone have an idea how many ml/l should be used? I'm not having any problems with my roots or lines or anything right now, i just want as much info for the future, hehee. thx guys


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## Dugout (Mar 30, 2008)

potroast said:


> All right! Hydroponics is what I know, and hydroponics is the way I grow!
> 
> This forum will be great, we can discuss anything hydro. No dirtbags here, We haul water!
> 
> ...


I was wondering what is the best set up for a beginner to start with I am looking at a small system from stealth hydro with a multi spectrum lighting system
Also were is the best place to get seeds without hassle I am interested in white widow feminized


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## potroast (Mar 31, 2008)

Look around this forum, there are lots of threads on the Stealth Hydro system. And for seed banks, there's a reliable rating service operated by Greenman, so check his page:

Green man's Seedbank Update

HTH


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## FilthyFletch (Mar 31, 2008)

Use grotek super H202 peroxide do not use the store bought 3% stuff as its not the right mix and contains things you dont want in your plant. The correct stuff which is much stronger so wear gloves as it will burn you is 3-5 drops per gallon


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## Albey LeB (Apr 2, 2008)

Just got started in Hydro. I've got adrip system, a PowerGrower by Eco.
 I only had it runing for afew days now. I've noticed a white sub, on the grow rock's.Is this the norm,? or am i doing something fucked up. I need to know if I have to flush and clean out my system?


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## YaK (Apr 2, 2008)

FilthyFletch said:


> Use grotek super H202 peroxide do not use the store bought 3% stuff as its not the right mix and contains things you dont want in your plant. The correct stuff which is much stronger so wear gloves as it will burn you is 3-5 drops per gallon


do you buy this stuff online? all I could find and get was Oxyblast, which is a food grade 10% H2O2.

I've looked for Gotek and googled it, havent been able to find a good online supplier, as my hydro shop doesnt carry it.

Also, you use it with Fox Farm nutrients? I thought you shouldnt use H2O2 with organic nutes?


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## potroast (Apr 2, 2008)

Albey LeB said:


> Just got started in Hydro. I've got adrip system, a PowerGrower by Eco.
> I only had it runing for afew days now. I've noticed a white sub, on the grow rock's.Is this the norm,? or am i doing something fucked up. I need to know if I have to flush and clean out my system?



It's probably dried salts from the nutrient, or just from your water. No need to worry about it, unless it gets heavy.

HTH


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## fba165 (Apr 4, 2008)

I been hearing good things about a system called Bubbleponics its a hydro system. check it out SH Hydroponics and tell me if it got what it take.


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## potroast (Apr 5, 2008)

Uhhh, I know it's a lot to ask, but read 5 posts back.


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## GoodFriend (Apr 5, 2008)

potroast said:


> Uhhh, I know it's a lot to ask, but read 5 posts back.


do you only watch this one thread now?
you used to be so much more active

hope all grows well with you my friend

oh, and go hempy buckets


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## Azgrow (Apr 5, 2008)

go hempy...peace az


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## thunderchunkie (Apr 13, 2008)

Hey potroast, im posting a pic here of a male i had in my garden. Ive exorcised it and cut its throat stomped on it and pissed on it. I have a question though, lol. what do you do with the roots left over in the grow chamber that are tangled with the other roots?


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## potroast (Apr 13, 2008)

That's a wacky picture, Man, and pretty neat. I've never had entangled roots, that sounds like a personal problem. I'd say that you would want to get as much dead root out of there as possible.

Only advice I can give is, do it carefully. 

HTH


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## MINNESOTA (Apr 15, 2008)

I Am Thinking Of Starting 2 Grow Sum Hydro Thru Hydroponics
The Onlii System I Found That Look Legit Was The Ebb And Flow System.
Has Any1 Grown With This I Need 2 B Pointed In The Right Direction!
Any Help!?!


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## Dugout (Apr 21, 2008)

High Minnesota, Hope this finds you doing well. I just wanted to drop you a line about your thread. I am also just starting out and I went quite in depth checking out systems. I found for me what seemed to be the best deal with a good reputation was Stealth Hydroponics you can get your system and proper lighting. I believe it ran me about $500. Just thought I would let you know. Smoke on for me Dugout


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## Kyle"yoMTVraps" (Apr 25, 2008)

My friend just gave me some stuff called Bush Master sea kelp extract its a $100 small bottle used during the bloom cycle has anyone heard anything about it?


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## GoodFriend (Apr 25, 2008)

Kyle"yoMTVraps";777422 said:


> My friend just gave me some stuff called Bush Master sea kelp extract its a $100 small bottle used during the bloom cycle has anyone heard anything about it?


it keeps your plants shorter from what i understand...


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## Enigma (Apr 26, 2008)

Kyle"yoMTVraps";777422 said:


> My friend just gave me some stuff called Bush Master sea kelp extract its a $100 small bottle used during the bloom cycle has anyone heard anything about it?


 
$100 a bottle is rediculous.. unless it is *EXTREMELY* potent and in at least a pint to quart size.




lumberjack_ian said:


> it keeps your plants shorter from what i understand...


 
It helps with roots.. not sure about keeping smaller plants.. I know flouro's do that.





Enigma


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## Azgrow (Apr 26, 2008)

no its susposed to have hormones to keep plants from strecthing an make them more stout an promote side growth hence bushmaster....if im not mistaken the application rate is low so a bottle lasts a lil while.....an for those with height issues it may help overall...peace az


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## Enigma (Apr 26, 2008)

Azgrow said:


> no its susposed to have hormones to keep plants from strecthing an make them more stout an promote side growth hence bushmaster....if im not mistaken the application rate is low so a bottle lasts a lil while.....an for those with height issues it may help overall...peace az


 
Could you test it with two specimines (side-by-side)?

I like using my flouro's.. I'll take pics of them in my journal just before I use the HPS.. then a day-by-day update on growth.





Enigma


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## Enigma (Apr 26, 2008)

thunderchunkie said:


> Hey potroast, im posting a pic here of a male i had in my garden. Ive exorcised it and cut its throat stomped on it and pissed on it. I have a question though, lol. what do you do with the roots left over in the grow chamber that are tangled with the other roots?


 
Dude.. I need more pics of your LED grow.. that shit is fucking crazy.


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## cableguy8852 (Apr 28, 2008)

I have this system, what schedule do you use for watering your plants? I was using 15 minutes three times a day but noticed alittle yellowing in my girls, so I have shut off the water for the past day, the bubbler is still on. The rockwool is still moist. My girls are just over an inch tall and not even a week old yet. Any info would be greatful as this is my first grow ever.


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## albeyhere (May 5, 2008)

cableguy8852 said:


> I have this system, what schedule do you use for watering your plants? I was using 15 minutes three times a day but noticed alittle yellowing in my girls, so I have shut off the water for the past day, the bubbler is still on. The rockwool is still moist. My girls are just over an inch tall and not even a week old yet. Any info would be greatful as this is my first grow ever.


 1/2 hr on 1/2 hr off work,s for me


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## thunderchunkie (May 5, 2008)

My system runs on a continuous flow. Steady stream of soup runs through the roots 24/7

If you want more pics of my grow, check out my thread. Harvest should be in a few more weeks!!!!!

https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/45296-full-led-grow-room-aeroponic-34.html


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## bigwheel (May 6, 2008)

Hey Az...know you got me convinced about that hempy stuff. I slowly making plans as we speak. Been doing a lot of research on the growing medium. I have about decided you dead right on the pure Perlite. Lot of that exotic stuff holds too much water. That Turface stuff I spoke of earlier would have to be 4 to 1 with Perlite to make it suitable. About like adding the vermacellite (sic) to the brew as advocated by some on here. Give it a slight mo betta water holding ability than the pure Perlite..but would not make it just sopping ass wet and stay that way for a long time as would the pure Turface. I learnt a lot about this over in the orchid and bozai tree making formus just today. Otherswise I been busy working in the garden..wink wink. AG. Topping..LST'ing..adding 3 mo additional curly tail 150 Watt bulbs. It getting a little crowded in there. Hope it dont catch fire 

Big Wheel



Azgrow said:


> go hempy...peace az


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## Azgrow (May 6, 2008)

yes as you dwelve into the world of hempy buckets you will learn they are one of the most amazing styles of system..as not only does it compeate with dwc in growth an structure it is stuperfyingly simple that anyone who is willing to try it will love it...peace az


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## bigwheel (May 7, 2008)

Well just to let you know I'm serious about this bizness bought two bags of Perlite at the Wally World store just today. I have also been sniffing around for buckets. I have read your Hempy Collective several times over. You think one gallon is plenty big enough I think? Thanks. I also need some good lights and am going to have to expand my growspace..figger out how to vent it..blah blah blah. Lot of things to consider here.

Big Wheel


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## Azgrow (May 7, 2008)

depending on the size you want your plant to finish at a 1gal is enough...if you want bigger plants like 4+feet an several oz's i suggest 2-5gallen.....peace az


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## bigwheel (May 8, 2008)

Guess I had best stick with the 1 gallon size. My growspace aint gonna hold no full growed Christmas Tree I got two growing fairly well in the AG but I'm afraid one is getting too big. No telling how big it be at end of flower. Too big for AG I think. Whut would you think if I moved them over to Hempy Buckets to flower? What would be the procedure etc? Thanks. Would sure hate to lose em..they are sorta like kids to me..sniff sniff. I'm have vegged thus far CFL lights even if it kills me and them I]m gonna flower with em too. I dont know anything about them SOB's etc. They both got purty good sized root balls. 

Big Wheel


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## twosaws (May 13, 2008)

i bought a grow cabnet from home grown hydroponics called a flowering chamber good or bad? also dont know how to start.


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## twosaws (May 13, 2008)

i also transplanted a seedling from outside its in the cabnet but not geting any bigger and dont know why.it has two flores cfl lights verti cool blue on 18 hours whats wrong. should i put the hps light on it to the seedling has only four leaves what should i do thank you


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## potroast (May 14, 2008)

I don't know anything about your cabinet, but moving a plant from sunlight to inside light, especially under flouros, is a difficult step down for the plant. It sounds like your plant is still small, so she will adapt quickly. Keep those lights 1 inch from the foliage.

HTH


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## twosaws (May 14, 2008)

it is a dwc cabinet the ppm is a little over 500 and theph is at 5.8


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## twosaws (May 14, 2008)

does anyone know anything about flowering chamber made by homegrown hydroponics.i am having trouble growing plants.help'''''


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## Koala (May 14, 2008)

I am running a DWC system for my first grow ever and it is going along quite well. I am concerned, however, because the nodes coming from main stems that would normally chunk up and form one big cola are looking underdeveloped, stringy and skinny. I am doing nothing to create CO2, but I have good ventilation and cool air coming in to regulate temp, which is normally between 76 and 81 F. The system is hard to flush because I did not consider putting a valve on to make that step easier, so it doesn't get done weekly, more like monthly. 

Any help would be great. Thanks.


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## potroast (May 14, 2008)

What you described sounds great, but you didn't mention the light used. That is a main cause for stringy buds, unless it's strain related. So what light and how close?

HTH


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## Koala (May 15, 2008)

I am using two 400W HPS lights, I have kind of shitty reflectors, and they are about 9 inches away form the tops of the tallest colas. There is no more room because they are so tall the light is on the ceiling of my room, which is the consequence of a long veg, I believe... like I said, first time.

The strain is somango.

Thanks.


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## potroast (May 16, 2008)

Two lamps are better than one, and you should be able to grow some nice buds with those. I would say to let them grow, in the last third of flowering they will fill out. You didn't say what day of flowering your plants are on, so if it is before Day 50, then let them finish flowering before getting concerned.

HTH


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## Koala (May 16, 2008)

Today is the 72nd day of flower... I am planned to clip within the next two weeks. Should I be extra concerned?

I was also wondering if the fact that I have no sort of CO2 intake to the room would have an adverse affect on flower density?

I'll try to get some pics to attach so you can see it.


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## twosaws (May 16, 2008)

when do i ues gal mag and do i use it with kool bloom thank you


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## thunderchunkie (May 16, 2008)

out of curiosity, can you make a clone with a single branch of the plant with only one set of leaves?


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## twosaws (May 16, 2008)

hi i am use a dwc that i bought from homegrown hydroponics called a flower chamber i am useing rockwool in a net pot i was told the net pot end should be in the water is this right.if so wont the rock wool get to wet and drown my plant?also it has 2 vertically mounted cool blue spectrum 20w is this anuff can't but put flors over plants mounted on sides.thank you for your help sorry so long


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## potroast (May 17, 2008)

Koala said:


> Today is the 72nd day of flower... I am planned to clip within the next two weeks. Should I be extra concerned?
> 
> I was also wondering if the fact that I have no sort of CO2 intake to the room would have an adverse affect on flower density?
> 
> I'll try to get some pics to attach so you can see it.


Well then, I can tell that you are growing a sativa-dominant strain, if it takes 85 days to ripen. And they will fill out in the next 2 weeks. Sativa buds grow more elongated and stretchy, and tend to look kinda stringy compared to a fat, dense indica.

At this stage, you can only let her ripen, and harvest what she gives. 




twosaws said:


> when do i ues gal mag and do i use it with kool bloom thank you





twosaws said:


> hi i am use a dwc that i bought from homegrown hydroponics called a flower chamber i am useing rockwool in a net pot i was told the net pot end should be in the water is this right.if so wont the rock wool get to wet and drown my plant?also it has 2 vertically mounted cool blue spectrum 20w is this anuff can't but put flors over plants mounted on sides.thank you for your help sorry so long


Yes, calmag and kool bloom can be used together.

Rockwool should be wet, and not allowed to dry out. The beauty of rockwool is that it holds a lot of air even when saturated. Those flouro tubes are not enough light.




thunderchunkie said:


> out of curiosity, can you make a clone with a single branch of the plant with only one set of leaves?


That's how I take all of mine. Of course, I remove all of the leaves except the top 2.

HTH


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## twosaws (May 17, 2008)

thanks potroast why do i use cal mag/what is its purpose and what flors should i get


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## stickyicky77 (May 17, 2008)

Hey Potroast, i am ready to plant my clones that are in 3" rock wool cubes into hydrotons and individual pots in my table. I have read that some people plant the cubes 1/2" above the flood plain and flood 3x a day and some say to plant the cubes so the flood plain soaks up to the center of the cubes and flood 1-3x a day and flood once a week from the top. Could you tell me which would work best in my flood and drain table? I am using a 400w Super HPS and CO2. You can see my set up in my journal.


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## twosaws (May 17, 2008)

hi potroast i saw Mr greens video he said he use's some kind of water that has co2 in it that he sprays is plants cents i dont have a co2 setup i would like to know what kind of water this is can you help"he called it bubbleing water"


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## bigwheel (May 17, 2008)

Nearly got to be club soda. That is water with co2 in it. Dont taste too bad with some good vodky and a twist o lime neither. 

Big Wheel


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## twosaws (May 17, 2008)

i just bought some differint flors one is called sunshine from ge full spectrum 875 lumens the other is for plants and aquarium 750 lumens red and blue spectrum are these all right for seedlings and when do i swich to my 600w hps also should i use both kinds of flors or just one kind my cabinet was already built with flors monted vertically one on each side my cabinet is 3 ft wide 2 ft deep 4 ft tall


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## Cannabis Gthumb (May 20, 2008)

I was thinking about making a hydro system. Is it worth it?


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## bigwheel (May 20, 2008)

Well I think it be ok if it aint too complicated..the po po's dont catch ya and your Mama dont find it. I would have a plan to keep the preacher outta the grow room too. Just trying to cover all the bases here. 

Big Wheel


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## 73hwiz (May 20, 2008)

I'm sure this has already been addressed, but how much do you think it would cost to build a hydro set up like the guy in the "I grow chronic" video? Not including seeds, those vary way to much to account for them.


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## MEANGREEN69 (May 20, 2008)

how good is bat gano??


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## potroast (May 21, 2008)

stickyicky77 said:


> Hey Potroast, i am ready to plant my clones that are in 3" rock wool cubes into hydrotons and individual pots in my table. I have read that some people plant the cubes 1/2" above the flood plain and flood 3x a day and some say to plant the cubes so the flood plain soaks up to the center of the cubes and flood 1-3x a day and flood once a week from the top. Could you tell me which would work best in my flood and drain table? I am using a 400w Super HPS and CO2. You can see my set up in my journal.


I always flooded up to the bottom of the cube, and drained immediately. You'll need to experiment with your setup, and make adjustments as you go.



MEANGREEN69 said:


> how good is bat guano??


Apparently, not very valuable to the bat.

HTH


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## MoePunn (May 23, 2008)

Potroast...

I am brand spanikin new to growing (actually only reason I decided to grow is my old connect died, whatcha gonna do right?) So anyways I figured since I had to start I'd rather start with dro, but have been reading a lil bit and it seems harder to grow this way... would you say I should start here or not, and if so what would you advise for a newbie with a modest budget?


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## Koala (May 23, 2008)

Moe

Check out the grow FAQ's, there are answers to so many of the questions that you will have at first.

Personally I am doing DWC (deep water culture) hydro and I was not a member when I started. There are so many things on the grow FAQ's and they are all divided up into categories so that you are able to get specific about your question. When you are having trouble finding answers there or want a second opinion on methods or processes described search threads and start your own to find other referance...

happy growing!


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## potroast (May 24, 2008)

Always good advice to read up a lot first, but I always advise new growers to start with dirt growing. It is exponentially easier and will give you the best chance of actually harvesting some bud. Once you've harvested some bud, you can decide to try a more advanced growing method.

HTH


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## MoePunn (May 24, 2008)

Dually noted Potroast... Thanks


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## fletchey (May 29, 2008)

New grower , with wilma 10 pot drip system ,canna vega,canna flores, airpump for nutes , nute heater , 600w grolux 200w cfl,40w grolux flourescent 4ft , tap water gives a high reading poss an 8 but i have ph up and down .
could realy do with some help on temp cf readings(what ever they r ) ph ,cf (cf whats it mean ) O and got a blue truncheon to test every thing . please help .
growing big buddha cheese 3 ,power plant 3, cheese 3


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## SeattlePot (Jun 2, 2008)

Recently I decided to upgrade from two 3'x3' tables to six. In the hopes of consolidating equipment and saving space I decided to use a smaller res with a separate pump and timer for each tray. This way I could get away with a much smaller res and wouldn't have to worry about structural support for the tons of water it would take to flood all the tables simultaneously. Hopefully I will be able to do more frequent reservoir water changes without wasting nutes as well. So I ran all of the drains to a single line and cut tubing to length for each table, the longest being 12 feet and the shortest three. Problems. Each table fill and drain in different amounts of time. So I decided to run a separate drain to the reservoir for each table thinking that the long drain tube and numerous tee sections where impeding the flow of water. So now I will have twelve separate hoses running to the reservoir. I need to make sure that each tray floods and drains in the same amount of time. What I am thinking about doing is cutting 12 hoses all to the same length, the length of the longest run needed and then coiling the shorter runs and ziptying them in a loop. Would this help to keep all of the fill and drain times the same?

As for the tables draining slowly, I think it may have been partially due do the tubing I was using. I was using black rubber hose with a relatively unsmooth inner surface. I pulled it all out and bought black flexible pvc. Hopefully the smoother inside surface will allow more water to drain quicker.

On another note, I attempted to fill my tables with lava rock and after unloading 300 pounds of it into the tables and trying to rinse it, I realized that it was just too dirty and gritty and would be causing frequent problems with the irrigation tubing. It only took me eight hours to everything cleaned up and the lava rock out of the op. Back to square one. So heres what Ive got: a bunch of plants in six inch rock wool cubes. Maybe I should just set the cubes in the trays and go without any other medium. I dunno where to go from here.


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## potroast (Jun 3, 2008)

Wow, Seattle, it sounds like you should switch to decaf. 

That coiling of the hose idea is wacky, and probably won't work like you think, but I got a good laugh about it. The only way that I know to solve the uneven filling problem is to fill them until each is overflowing. That means adding an overflow drain to each bed, and another drain hose. The overflow drain is set higher, so it only drains when the bed is full. Then the pump shuts off, and the rest drains out the low drain.

Rockwool cubes are not best suited for flooding, especially 6 inch cubes. If you simply put the cubes in the beds, and flooded, you would need to flood only a couple of inches, and only once per day.

You can reduce the amount of solution required to flood by putting "spacers" in the bed where you don't have pots/plants. A spacer can be a brick or rock, or a plastic container filled with water, anything that will take up space so less nute solution is needed.

HTH


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## BudHunter (Jun 3, 2008)

hey potman listen..im doing this hydro unit with ebb flow etc etc and ive bought also the co2 tank kit as reserch told me it could be good for plants(ive tried the cheap baking powder method and it worked) so i figured i would but a good 1 for my big ass new room..could i use it directly in the water connected to the ph controller to mantain good ph levels??? , because i think (and also some have told me) that roots dont need co2 and it could be irrelevant to use it that way....
should i just diffuse it infront of a fan just to create co2 for the plant leaves 
or should i 'waste' it on ph matter? (although i think ph is the biggest matter ) 

also i was thinking of buying a 3 slot nutrient feeder Aqua Medic : Freshwater Catalogue : Dosing : Reefdoser to brag about how hi-tech my shit is!!! (Actually because i suck in this shit and i want it to be easier for me since ive got a big budget to spend on something that might not yield!! lol ) would you reccomend it?? 

......one last thing , i currently am on the 3rd starting week of a single female plant its a white widow female sensi seed... when the leaf is small it has a rich green colour..then as it ggrows it loses the colour (as in light green not pale) ..is that why they call it white widow? or is it because ive got a problem???


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## potroast (Jun 4, 2008)

Extra CO2 is good for your plants, but only if you leak it slowly over their foliage. It is heavier than air so will sink, so an oscillating fan on the floor will stir it up. You still need to control the exhaust and temps in the room.

Check out the automatic nute feeder after your 20th crop.

I can't tell if your White Widow plant has a problem, you'll have to keep a close eye on her.

HTH


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## WWgrower (Jun 8, 2008)

Hey Potroast, great thread. I have a drip sys. in rockwool. I have 6 ww girls going into there 4th week of flower. I have a strange problem and can't put my finger on it. I have 2 girls that are driving me to a nervous breakdown. I wish I could take a pic. of this but my camera sucks on any kind of closeup. The problem started about a week ago. They started flowering big time and getting cola's under my 400 hps. I had one plant get too close to the light and got some burning. I move the light up everyday but leave some close to accomadate the lower buds. Well the buds tric's stopped growing and the buds are becoming some what packed with unusual density. I have 3 other girls looking perfect but I don't know what to think of the 2. I am using floranova bloom with florilicous plus and Koolbloom. My question is if you burn the plants what is the condition of the plant. Can it come back,will it come back this late into flower. I really am not sure this is the problem. Only thing I can come up with. I already have made this a long post if you need more info for diagnosis let me know. One other thing Iam losing A LOT of lower leaves a fistfull every couple of days. Most plants bottom half leaves are now gone and more on the way.


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## WWgrower (Jun 8, 2008)

Just thought of some additional info. I am having a slight humidity problem with summer here. The humidity keeps at around 35 to 55. Mostly in the 40's. every once in a while it gets up around 60 to 70 never more than a couple of hours. I have 1 pu fan on the bottom and a intake about 70cfm for the tops and a clip on fan blowing on the bulb usually around high 70 to low 80's. Constant fluc though. Thanks


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## potroast (Jun 10, 2008)

WWgrower, a 400w HPS without an air-cooled hood should be 15 inches above the plant top to keep from burning the plants. 

When you add Kool Bloom, you need to cut down on your basic nutes, so the FloraNova should be less than 10ml/gallon, maybe 5-7ml.

As plants flower, and get taller, the lower leaves get less light, and are used by the plant, so naturally yellow and die. At this point, you can only let your plants mature as best they can. Give them more fresh air, and more circulation, because in late flowering they need it.

HTH


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## WWgrower (Jun 10, 2008)

Thanks potsoast, Did not know that about the floranova but I keep my PPM's at 1300 before I add the Koolbloom. Also I thought or was using 12 inches away from light I will move it to 15. When a plant gets overheated and burned how long will it take to recover if at all. Two plants this happened to over a week ago have not recovered the buds are not fruiting up,like the others. Thanks


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## purplehaze2 (Jun 10, 2008)

sorry to change the subject but I flush after 5 weeks of flowering,I want that white ash bra.my 2cents peace PH2


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## potroast (Jun 11, 2008)

WWgrower said:


> Thanks potsoast, Did not know that about the floranova but I keep my PPM's at 1300 before I add the Koolbloom. Also I thought or was using 12 inches away from light I will move it to 15. When a plant gets overheated and burned how long will it take to recover if at all. Two plants this happened to over a week ago have not recovered the buds are not fruiting up,like the others. Thanks


The FloraNova is a mostly organic nutrient, so it's more forgiving than a strong chemical nute, but you still want to use less with the Kool Bloom, and the plants don't need as strong a nute mix in late flowering anyway. Also the Kool Bloom is strong stuff, so use no more than *a level teaspoon per 4 gallons* of soup.

Once foliage is damaged it won't recover, and the bud amount around there will be less.




purplehaze2 said:


> sorry to change the subject but I flush after 5 weeks of flowering,I want that white ash bra.my 2cents peace PH2



You can flush after 5 weeks, but you'll want to feed them again in the next 5 weeks. 
Unless you're growing some kind of Haze, then you'll have another 7-8 weeks. 

HTH


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## iano6969 (Jun 21, 2008)

Hi potroast im new to growing an i got some skunk#11 feminised seeds, planted 2days ago and already hav 3 little sprouts. how far away should my 250w MH be?
and can i clone feminised plants cos ive heard they die off pretty early is this true?


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## lagwag (Jun 22, 2008)

OK. Switching to hydro next grow. Lots of questions. I will be doing an ebb and flow setup in a 3' by 3' tray with a res that can hold 49 gallons... I will be using a 1000 watt hps lamp for most of the grow. Perfect grow room as far as temperature and air flow go. First, can i get away with 25 gallons in the res. Second, can I follow the GH Flora Series Keep it Simple Recirculating Program at recommended strength? It's an 8 week program from seedling to ripen. Third, I'm not close to a natural spring or creek so i have to use tap water. Will this be ok to use? Using 6" net pots with hydroton and growdan cubes for the clones. Any thoughts or responses will be very appreciated. Leaving soil because i'm tired of the mess and buggies and all that noise. squawk squawk...


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## zaq1234 (Jun 23, 2008)

I just started setting up my system, hows it look?

I started a thread in CFL but it looks like i would probably get more help over in here... If you want to check the rest out, my thread is https://www.rollitup.org/cfl-growing/84066-my-first-real-grow-hydroponic.html


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## potroast (Jun 24, 2008)

iano6969 said:


> Hi potroast im new to growing an i got some skunk#11 feminised seeds, planted 2days ago and already hav 3 little sprouts. how far away should my 250w MH be?
> and can i clone feminised plants cos ive heard they die off pretty early is this true?


Start at 3 feet and lower slowly over the next week. You can clone any plant that you can get a cutting to root.



lagwag said:


> OK. Switching to hydro next grow. Lots of questions. I will be doing an ebb and flow setup in a 3' by 3' tray with a res that can hold 49 gallons... I will be using a 1000 watt hps lamp for most of the grow. Perfect grow room as far as temperature and air flow go. First, can i get away with 25 gallons in the res. Second, can I follow the GH Flora Series Keep it Simple Recirculating Program at recommended strength? It's an 8 week program from seedling to ripen. Third, I'm not close to a natural spring or creek so i have to use tap water. Will this be ok to use? Using 6" net pots with hydroton and growdan cubes for the clones. Any thoughts or responses will be very appreciated. Leaving soil because i'm tired of the mess and buggies and all that noise. squawk squawk...


Your res size will be determined by 2-3 times what is required to flood. Start with less nutes than the label says, and watch your plants. I've always used tap water for hydro.



zaq1234 said:


> I just started setting up my system, hows it look?
> 
> I started a thread in CFL but it looks like i would probably get more help over in here... If you want to check the rest out, my thread is https://www.rollitup.org/cfl-growing/84066-my-first-real-grow-hydroponic.html



That looks good, you will want to keep the root zone dark though.

HTH


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## [email protected] (Jun 24, 2008)

hey was up bro i see that u say that u are good on hydroponics well i will like to get some ideas or can u give me some good tips.


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## zaq1234 (Jun 24, 2008)

> That looks good, you will want to keep the root zone dark though.


good to know haha, thanks!


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## littlebat (Jun 24, 2008)

So I set up my first system today, I got one of those automatic grow cabs. I know you start the light cycles at 18/6, so I've got it on a timer. Growing in hydroton with Supernatural nutes. The sprinkler has two settings, either it rotates like a lawn sprinkler or it sprinkles lightly like a fountain. But it sounds from what you're all saying here like I'm only supposed to run the water every once in a while, and not have the sprinkler on all the time. Is this true? I can't find a setting to make the sprinkler only come on occasionally. It's either running all the time or off.

Also, when you say "flood," does that just mean pouring water through the pellets? It seems like some people are using the word to mean something you do once a week and others are saying you're supposed to do it 5 times a day. What's the difference between flood and flush?


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## potroast (Jun 25, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> hey was up bro i see that u say that u are good on hydroponics well i will like to get some ideas or can u give me some good tips.


My best tip to you is to start reading the threads in this forum. While you're doing that, get growing in dirt. 




littlebat said:


> So I set up my first system today, I got one of those automatic grow cabs. I know you start the light cycles at 18/6, so I've got it on a timer. Growing in hydroton with Supernatural nutes. The sprinkler has two settings, either it rotates like a lawn sprinkler or it sprinkles lightly like a fountain. But it sounds from what you're all saying here like I'm only supposed to run the water every once in a while, and not have the sprinkler on all the time. Is this true? I can't find a setting to make the sprinkler only come on occasionally. It's either running all the time or off.
> 
> Also, when you say "flood," does that just mean pouring water through the pellets? It seems like some people are using the word to mean something you do once a week and others are saying you're supposed to do it 5 times a day. What's the difference between flood and flush?


It sounds like you have some kind of aero system. Is the sprinkler spraying the roots? We need to know a lot more about your system to help you, but I imagine that the sprinkler is supposed to run constantly.

Flooding is a method of irrigating a hydro system. You can also drip, spray, mist or hand water. To flush a system is to try to reduce nutrient salt buildup, and is done periodically and especially before harvest.

HTH


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## littlebat (Jun 25, 2008)

Here's my cabinet:

STEALTH HYDROPONIC GROW CABINET CAB BOX LIGHT SYSTEM 1 - eBay (item 260243157368 end time May-29-08 03:42:19 PDT)

I'm trying to figure out the difference between hydro & aero. Does hydro just mean it's always submerged and aero mean the roots hang out of the pot above the water?


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## potroast (Jun 25, 2008)

Umm, pardon me, but are you saying that you paid 3200 bux for that unit, and you don't know the difference between aero and hydro? 

I can't tell anything by their description, so you'll have to actually answer my question if you want some help.

HTH


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## zaq1234 (Jun 25, 2008)

quick question: I have searched high and low for rockwool/stonewool/rapid-rooters, anything for my seeds, but have not been able to find anything. My problem here is my seeds are sprouting and in desperation I stuck them in peat pellets. Is there any alternatives to the rockwool I can try out? Peat holds the water way to well to use in this system and I dont want to have to resort to potting them because I really want to try out this hydroponic stuff. thanks!


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## gvega187 (Jun 25, 2008)

potroast said:


> Umm, pardon me, but are you saying that you paid 3200 bux for that unit, and you don't know the difference between aero and hydro?
> 
> I can't tell anything by their description, so you'll have to actually answer my question if you want some help.
> 
> HTH


rofl, thats what i said.


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## gvega187 (Jun 25, 2008)

zaq1234 said:


> quick question: I have searched high and low for rockwool/stonewool/rapid-rooters, anything for my seeds, but have not been able to find anything. My problem here is my seeds are sprouting and in desperation I stuck them in peat pellets. Is there any alternatives to the rockwool I can try out? Peat holds the water way to well to use in this system and I dont want to have to resort to potting them because I really want to try out this hydroponic stuff. thanks!


you can get rockwool and starter plugs only at hydro stores. ebay has hydro stores with competitive prices. 

since you already have them in peat pellets maybe you would have better luck transferring them to soil...although i won't condone such a use of cannabis rofl.

If you can, get some more seeds and a bag of rockwool/plugs ($15), just sprout the seeds in those and apply them to your setup.


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## potroast (Jun 25, 2008)

Since they are in peat pellets, just go with those. That's what we used to use before we had rockwool. 

HTH


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## zaq1234 (Jun 26, 2008)

gvega187 said:


> you can get rockwool and starter plugs only at hydro stores. ebay has hydro stores with competitive prices.
> 
> since you already have them in peat pellets maybe you would have better luck transferring them to soil...although i won't condone such a use of cannabis rofl.
> 
> If you can, get some more seeds and a bag of rockwool/plugs ($15), just sprout the seeds in those and apply them to your setup.


Ill have to look around ebay for em then, thanks! I would put the rest in soil but I sprouted 4 seeds and used my last 2 pots for the 2 that didnt make it into my setup soo....




potroast said:


> Since they are in peat pellets, just go with those. That's what we used to use before we had rockwool.
> 
> HTH


...Ill still try it out, whats to loose huh? Yeah I was just reading a history of hydroponics or something and it said something about how they used peat, but it was prone to bits floating away and it would break down over time. 

Anyway, my question now is, should I keep a 3x a day 20 minute watering cycle for peat? It seems to hold the water very well and I dont want to have to worry about my seedlings getting root rot or whatever... And after that is done off the drip, should I just throw the whole peat pellet in with a bunch of small rocks or something?

thanks for the help!!


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## gvega187 (Jun 26, 2008)

lol 1st- is that really your slightly blurred pictures as your avatar? 


2nd-Where is this history of hydro article you speak of? I would like to see it as well.

3rd- potroast, check out zaq's journal dude. This one kid is dominating his thread with all this 12 yr old shit. I tried to tell skunkkush about it, but hes not accepting pm's.


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## hAEROin (Jun 27, 2008)

I have a question about the H2o2 add back rule. I use the 35% stuff and usually add back a full dosage 3ml/gal every other day. Is this to quick?


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## potroast (Jun 28, 2008)

zaq1234 said:


> Anyway, my question now is, should I keep a 3x a day 20 minute watering cycle for peat? It seems to hold the water very well and I dont want to have to worry about my seedlings getting root rot or whatever... And after that is done off the drip, should I just throw the whole peat pellet in with a bunch of small rocks or something?
> thanks for the help!!


Yeah, the starter cube is put into a pot of growrocks AKA hydroton, large-particle aggregate, those clay balls, or even perlite or coir, and then dripped into, or flooded several times a day. Root rot is not caused by being too wet, it's caused by res temps too high and the fungus grows.




hAEROin said:


> I have a question about the H2o2 add back rule. I use the 35% stuff and usually add back a full dosage 3ml/gal every other day. Is this to quick?


Nope, as I understand it, the stuff dissipates in 2 days, especially in a recirculating res.


HTH


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## zaq1234 (Jun 29, 2008)

gvega187 said:


> lol 1st- is that really your slightly blurred pictures as your avatar?
> 
> 
> 2nd-Where is this history of hydro article you speak of? I would like to see it as well.
> ...


1) yep thats me last year, my second year experimenting with growing, we threw some seeds in my friends dads planter in the front yard and once they got half a foot tall we transplanted em to a pot and moved em out back. unfortunately that plant (halfway thru the summer and soon after the pic was taken) was infested by an ant colony and we had to kill it 

2) Im looking thru my history for the article, I cant really find anything thru the junk thats there but it might have been Hydroponic Systems
or Alternative Hydroponic Substrates ... looking at it again they have some sweet stuff anyway! sorry I cant tell you what exactly i was talking bout, I have the worst memory!!!
...hmm no it want this but ill try to find it,, sorry again!! 

3) haha Im glad you like it, but its more like my 23 yr old mcguiverness!! (also related, see pic, its our 2007 hometowns annual jack-o-bong contest winner, my personal creation!! made in 25 minutes out of a pumpkin, gourd, corncob and apple cider; and steak-knife and chopstick for tools! Quote form the judges: "10/10 for smokability, that was the tastiest thing Ive smoked in a while!")





potroast said:


> Yeah, the starter cube is put into a pot of growrocks AKA hydroton, large-particle aggregate, those clay balls, or even perlite or coir, and then dripped into, or flooded several times a day. Root rot is not caused by being too wet, it's caused by res temps too high and the fungus grows.


sweet, thanks!!!!


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## gvega187 (Jun 29, 2008)

lol i was referring to the guy on the previous page who was hating on people for 12 yr old stuff. 

nice bong...wish my town had a bogathon every year


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## poamgosmokewhenamready (Jul 5, 2008)

*cool.drugs.sex.rock in roll.......................*


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## poamgosmokewhenamready (Jul 5, 2008)

how often do u flush.


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## caddyluck (Jul 6, 2008)

can i transfer 5" net pots from dwc to a modified waterfarm?I have a vegg room and a seperate flower room.do i have to wait for them to adjust to the water farm before changing nute solution to bloom?hydroton medium,GH Flora series....i am allowed to have 3 vegging and 3 flowering--medical grower,I want to always have plants growing, the 5" pots have lots of room in the waterfarm top bucket....this is my first hydro any advice will help


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## poamgosmokewhenamready (Jul 6, 2008)

its your call do your plants look helthly,its time baby push.what kind of set up u got and how big is your plant?


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## caddyluck (Jul 6, 2008)

no plant yet just sprouts in rockwool, I'm trying to stay ahead of the game....I am just wondering if I CAN transfer the plant from dwc(mesh pot and all)to the waterfarm, or should I vegg AND flower in the waterfarm? ideally i would like to utilize both dwc and waterfarm units to keep a somewhat perpetual harvest  started the journal....thank youhttp://https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/88194-crimea-blue-trainwreck-violator-kush.html


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## poamgosmokewhenamready (Jul 6, 2008)

tick tock well what are you waiting 4 christmas


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## potroast (Jul 7, 2008)

Well po, I guess he is waiting for some actually helpful answers. 






caddyluck said:


> can i transfer 5" net pots from dwc to a modified waterfarm?I have a vegg room and a seperate flower room.do i have to wait for them to adjust to the water farm before changing nute solution to bloom?hydroton medium,GH Flora series....i am allowed to have 3 vegging and 3 flowering--medical grower,I want to always have plants growing, the 5" pots have lots of room in the waterfarm top bucket....this is my first hydro any advice will help


I've never done that but I would think that it would be easy to transfer any established plant, with clean roots, into a bucket of rocks. Just put it in some rocks, and pile rocks all around. If the rocks are flooded or dripped into immediately, the plants will adapt quickly and really take off.

That said, it's definitely best on the plant if she's allowed to fill out her container, and stay undisturbed there throughout her days. You know, just like all of the other things that we have to do to keep women happy.

HTH


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## poamgosmokewhenamready (Jul 7, 2008)

i might wait if i had to cut any roots


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## caddyluck (Jul 7, 2008)

thanx potroast for the hepful answer. I am going to give it a try, I have drilled bigger holes in the waterfarm for the roots so i'm feeling pretty good about this, but I sure as hell won't be cutting any roots


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## Merciless58 (Jul 8, 2008)

Hi Guys, I have a question for u...how do you feel about feeding seedling as soon as the sucker pops up from the medium? 
I ask because i've used the small rockwool cubes, jiffy pelets/ hydroton as medium in an ebb and flo. And as soon as seeds sprout from the medium, i feed em with flora nova grow at about 400 ppm, 
No signs of nute burns, but the leafs turn to this lime green fat celery type thing. And I read in other forums that they dont feed till about 2 weeks from seed. does this apply to hydro aswell? ive been in play since the begining of the yr, started with GH 3 part and always fed right after they pop up... ur thoughts please


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## potroast (Jul 9, 2008)

Low dose nutrients work fine for me, and especially if you use something like FloraNova, which is mostly organic. I pretreat my rockwool with nutes too, so the plants always have nutes available. I don't see how a plant could live without any nutes.

HTH


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## snoopdog621 (Jul 9, 2008)

i would just use a ph meter and ec meter and dip it into a pot .....when its fully flooded to make shore there isent any salt build up once a week .. to make shore its the same ex readin and ph level as the main water resivoir


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## poamgosmokewhenamready (Jul 9, 2008)

how often do i add plain water to my tank?


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## Merciless58 (Jul 9, 2008)

potroast said:


> Low dose nutrients work fine for me, and especially if you use something like FloraNova, which is mostly organic. I pretreat my rockwool with nutes too, so the plants always have nutes available. I don't see how a plant could live without any nutes.
> 
> HTH


You are the bomb... thanks for reinforcing my thoughts... 
I have yet another set of ?? for you...
1. your thoughts on superthrive??? 
I've read in previous post about the vitamins it contains and it can be fed to sick seedslings so that they can recover and what not.
People swear by this, and Im a lucas fan ... ie less is best, no additives bla bla lol. But i cant help to think of anything that can save a seedling that is not up to par with their sisters... I hear leaching with a mild nutrient solution to fix deficiencies and what not... thoughts please

2. Nute Burn: here is an example of an AK47 clone that is going through a bit of nute burn...
?. Does AK47 require low nutes?
This specific clone rooted 1 week ago.
ppm is around 440, ph 5.8, RH 45% temp 78fh, lights 18/6 Nova grow nutes. I dunno, i hear its hard to nute burn using nova lines, but, my first run , I used GH flroa 3 part for vegg and when flowered i used nova bloom @ around 1400 ppm on a 600 hps and that shit fried them... pics below of that aswell. thoughts please???


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## potroast (Jul 10, 2008)

poamgosmokewhenamready said:


> how often do i add plain water to my tank?


I top off the reservoir with plain water daily, or every time I'm in there.




Merciless58 said:


> You are the bomb... thanks for reinforcing my thoughts...
> I have yet another set of ?? for you...
> 1. your thoughts on superthrive???
> I've read in previous post about the vitamins it contains and it can be fed to sick seedslings so that they can recover and what not.
> ...


1. I've always used SuperThrive, during veg and early flowering, and don't consider it a nutrient supplement because it's not a nutrient. I use a heavier dose of ST for rooting new cuttings.

2. The amount of nutrient concentration that you can use depends on several things like temp & humidity, amount of light and fresh air, and how much medium your plants have and how often they're fed. I've found it easier to cause nute burn with chemical nutes than stuff like FloraNova. But with hydro, the easiest thing to do is flush and change the res.

HTH


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## purpdaddy (Jul 12, 2008)

what do you guys think af CANNA nutes?


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## poamgosmokewhenamready (Jul 12, 2008)

there strong ass they gave me all Nutrients 
burns on the plant but grow like on steroids so i got them down on 200ppm 250mh just add co2 .and there in th ebb flood and drain in rockwool,but i keep feaning so i some the little bitches about 2 inches tall taste good!!!


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## snoopdog621 (Jul 12, 2008)

ive just ordered a nft setup to add to my ebb setup ... so i can do over 50 plants


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## poamgosmokewhenamready (Jul 13, 2008)

why does nobody use Advanced Nutrients whats wrong whith them ?any one got a good pic with ebb and flood and Advanced Nutrients??


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## snoopdog621 (Jul 13, 2008)

yeah click my link


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## Nuclear Bud (Jul 18, 2008)

ok im debating on making a little wick system from some strawberrys outdoors. my question is, i can still use my favorite little rockwool cubes to grow in right just pop some wicks in the bottom right? i have several brand new wicks for oil lamps that im planning on using.


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## brendon420 (Jul 20, 2008)

thanks for the awesome thread potroast im venturing into hydro soon, but probably aero, how does this DIY AERO system sound, looks like its got some promise

projects.bootstrap - Aeroponic Unit V1.1: Items Needed

thanks for everything


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## potroast (Jul 21, 2008)

That looks like an excellent tutorial, and you can find more tutorials like that one in our DIY Forum, and here in Hydroponics / Aeroponics.

HTH


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## bigbailer (Jul 25, 2008)

If i were to use 2" rockwool and hydroton in a net pot hanging over sprayers for often would i have to "spray" them? I know this has prolly been asked but i cant find it anywhere


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## potroast (Jul 25, 2008)

Most aeroponic systems spray the roots constantly, some cycle on and off in very short intervals.

HTH


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## bigbailer (Jul 26, 2008)

even when the lights are off?


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## potroast (Jul 26, 2008)

Yeah, constantly means all the time, 24/7, day and night, lights off too. To cycle the spray in short intervals like ON 1 min/OFF 4 min, you need a CycleStat timer.

HTH


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## gvega187 (Jul 26, 2008)

what concentration of h2o2 do you guys use for your plants when healthy? What dosage do you recommend if your system is being overrun by evil?

Currently my answer is 3ml/gal - 8 ml/gal


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## ThatGuy451 (Jul 26, 2008)

Does anyone know if seeds from mid-grade schwag would be alot more potent when grown hydroponically?


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## gvega187 (Jul 26, 2008)

could be, could not be.


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## potroast (Jul 27, 2008)

gvega187 said:


> what concentration of h2o2 do you guys use for your plants when healthy? What dosage do you recommend if your system is being overrun by evil?
> 
> Currently my answer is 3ml/gal - 8 ml/gal


Well, I don't typically use the stuff, but it depends entirely on the concentration. The 3 percent drugstore kind may have some other stuff in it, so it's not the best to use, but I've read that 15-30 ml/gallon. The 35 percent and the 50 percent are best, and you use much less per gallon. 

For regular use, since it disappears quickly, you should add it to your res every 2-3 days.




ThatGuy451 said:


> Does anyone know if seeds from mid-grade schwag would be a lot more potent when grown hydroponically?


Potency is mostly genetic, so the answer is no. However, when you grow a healthy plant, and keep her from getting pollinated, and allow her to ripen fully, the bud will likely be better than the bud the seed came from. Especially if the bud was fully pollinated, and that was the reason for the seed.

Most importantly, it will be better because you did it. 

HTH


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## sleeper05 (Jul 27, 2008)

I've seen alot of people buying really crazy set ups... why not build something of your own? I'm new to this as well. Hydro that is. well... growing in general. I've had two successful grows that were of a single plant and then my last one I tried two. A bagseed and a seed brought back from the Vancouver Seed Bank, Burmese x Fucking Incredible. Not my point though. 

Rubbermaid Containers - $6 to $10
Air Pump w/ Dual outlet - $40
Air tubing 25 ft. - $4
Air Stones 4 pk. - $8
Net Pots - $.66 each
Clay Pebbles - iuno but cheap hah
Rockwool - iuno either but it's not that bad. 


Now you have to buy you're Nutes, pH ups and downs, ppm/tds metes, pH meters, Lights, Fans, Black Duct Tape, building an enclosed environment isn't hard, ie. cardboard walls painted white to reflect. you just need the space to do it. 

I'm also saying that you shouldn't get this stuff and say hey... I know how to grow some dope... read everything in this post before this one and you'll at least have a better idea like i do.


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## ThatGuy451 (Jul 29, 2008)

Thx Potroast, I live in TN where the chances of being able to buy a good strain is slim to none. So I have to venture on this journey of mine alone and hope for the best. Any tips on where I could purchase some good seeds?


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## purpdaddy (Jul 29, 2008)

www.bcbuddepot.com.
i am currently growing their GOD bud strain and they are doing fine.


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## purpdaddy (Jul 29, 2008)

has anyone ever grown using CANNA nutes and are they good nutes marijuana?


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## potroast (Jul 30, 2008)

If you're wondering which seed dealer to buy from, check out GreenMan's website. He compiles the reports of many people who buy seeds, and ranks the seedbanks based on people's reports.

http://www.seedbankupdate.com


HTH


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## purpdaddy (Jul 30, 2008)

i am wondering if these CANNA line of nutes are any good for marijuana growing?


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## VictorVIcious (Jul 30, 2008)

I think Al B Fuct uses the canna line but he is only harvesting about three pounds a month, from a 10' by 10 room. Every month. He has a how to, is not called that, Get a Harvest Every Two Weeks VV


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## purpdaddy (Jul 30, 2008)

if anyone knows a site or has a canna feed chart please post it!


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## wannabee (Jul 30, 2008)

I am new to growing and using the Aerogarden for cherry tomatoes. Its worked pretty well without much fuss. My question is: I've been turning the light off at night to give it the 12/12 hours for flowering. I'm in my middle to last stages of flowering and I have to go away for a week. I don't have anyone to come and turn it off. Will a 16.5/7.5 hour light schedule ruin anything for about a week? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.


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## potroast (Jul 31, 2008)

Well, with 3 posts asking about Canna nutes, which I've never used, I must ask, have you checked their website? That's where you'll find their feed chart.

And an aerogarden light cycle question for tomatoes, I can't imagine that a tomato plant is photoperiodic, so I have no idea.


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## purpdaddy (Aug 1, 2008)

their web site doesnt have any feed charts.you cant even purchase the nutes from their site you have to get it from a supplier or dealer


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## purpdaddy (Aug 1, 2008)

well then what nutes do you recommend.i am growing in the aerogarden.


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## purpdaddy (Aug 1, 2008)

can anyone please giive me some advice what to do or what i am doing wrong, but these are feminised seeds i purchased and are very valuable to me so any advice will be taken seriously.all the other ones are doind fine.they are almost 2 weeks old.


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## potroast (Aug 2, 2008)

Hey purpdaddly, you've got the canna nutes, so use them. If the website doesn't have a feeding regimen, then ask the store. If all else fails, read the label, and use half of what it says.

Your plants look fine, much too stretched from too little light, but healthy. Your main problem is you are using an aerogarden.

HTH


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## purpdaddy (Aug 2, 2008)

cmon man im not a dumbass.read the lable! by the way i found one anyway and i am using them.i wanted a chart that a grower made b\c i heard that the nuts were very strong thats all.


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## purpdaddy (Aug 2, 2008)

how high should a 600w HPS and MH light be away from about5-7 plants?


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## KronicChris420 (Aug 2, 2008)

Hey fellas i need some advice.. Im using an aerogarden setup with some stoner modifications, but i got an issue. Pruning? Im not sure exactly how i wanna prune these bitches! I have limited closet space as well, and any info or exp you guys got with strategic pruning for my situation would be gnarly. 
Thx


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## purpdaddy (Aug 2, 2008)

KronicChris420 said:


> Hey fellas i need some advice.. Im using an aerogarden setup with some stoner modifications, but i got an issue. Pruning? Im not sure exactly how i wanna prune these bitches! I have limited closet space as well, and any info or exp you guys got with strategic pruning for my situation would be gnarly.
> Thx


 prune them to encourage lower leaves to grow,so they will be bushy .we r limited to space.i also use an aerogarden


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## drodri3548 (Aug 3, 2008)

i have a question potroast i have a plant in my closet that i started about 5 weeks ago in the window and it stopped growing at 5 weeks so i baught a hydroponics kit that came with warm and cool true 85watt cfl's that i just recently put my plant under 2 days ago ( its in a soil mix soil,perlite, vermiculite) now thats its under the lights the stems seems to be getting this brownish deep redish colour to them with drooping leaves, im confused ive bin reading all day and cant seem to figure this out....

also as i mentioned i just bought a hydro kit its a bubbler, i have a question with the drip tube do i physically put the drip in the rockwool or do i sit the rockwool ontop of the drip tube? not sure and should i cover my rockwool with the hydroton....

any comments and advice would be greatly appreciated thanks you all


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## drodri3548 (Aug 3, 2008)

a picture so you can see what i am talking about


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## Alaric (Aug 4, 2008)

I used to hang out at CW and OG-----great loss of archived info when those sites went down.

Dycans----nice to see you're still around----ever run across my friends Lucas and ph?

Didn't read this thread all the way through but I'll add a little now:

1) minimum 25 gallons per 1K of lighting. Obviously---- how often you flush depends on rez volume.

2) keep your nutes below 75f and moving-----doesn't have to be constant--I run aero in 10' x 6" tubes with microjet sprayers and NO MEDIUM TO DEAL WITH. Here in the hot south I'm forced to run a 1/4hp chiller to keep nutes around 70f-----will throw up some pics if any interest.

3) Eliminate everything in life that ain't fun (as much as possible).

A~~


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## lorenzo08 (Aug 4, 2008)

my rez has been holding at about 80f. should I worry about it any? should I think about investing money in bringing it down to 70-75f? my plants are doing ok, but if it would help them, I'll do it. no problem with root rot. roots are looking great


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## potroast (Aug 5, 2008)

drodri3548 said:


> i have a question potroast i have a plant in my closet that i started about 5 weeks ago in the window and it stopped growing at 5 weeks so i baught a hydroponics kit that came with warm and cool true 85watt cfl's that i just recently put my plant under 2 days ago ( its in a soil mix soil,perlite, vermiculite) now thats its under the lights the stems seems to be getting this brownish deep redish colour to them with drooping leaves, im confused ive bin reading all day and cant seem to figure this out....
> 
> also as i mentioned i just bought a hydro kit its a bubbler, i have a question with the drip tube do i physically put the drip in the rockwool or do i sit the rockwool ontop of the drip tube? not sure and should i cover my rockwool with the hydroton....
> 
> any comments and advice would be greatly appreciated thanks you all



The stem color isn't a problem, but the droopy leaves are. I'd say your plant needs some light. Some window light will keep a small plant healthy, but as the foliage grows, they need more light. Then you put it under some fluorescents, that are no where near as much light as the scant window light.

You want to drip into the rockwool, and cover the rockwool surface with rocks to keep algae from growing on the wet surface.




lorenzo08 said:


> my rez has been holding at about 80f. should I worry about it any? should I think about investing money in bringing it down to 70-75f? my plants are doing ok, but if it would help them, I'll do it. no problem with root rot. roots are looking great



Yes, you need to worry about 80 degrees. Bad stuff will grow in your res, and cause problems for your plants. Add some ventilation to lower the temp in the room, and your plants will grow better. Or move your res to a cooler place.

HTH


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## KronicChris420 (Aug 5, 2008)

i got a seperate timer and everything for the lights so i can flower when necessary, but i was wondering if anyone had any exp or info using nutrients other the the stock nutes that come with the aerogarden. i dont wanna over kill these girls cuz im pretty sure i got 4 females there only 3 weeks old tho.


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## purpdaddy (Aug 5, 2008)

KronicChris420 said:


> i got a seperate timer and everything for the lights so i can flower when necessary, but i was wondering if anyone had any exp or info using nutrients other the the stock nutes that come with the aerogarden. i dont wanna over kill these girls cuz im pretty sure i got 4 females there only 3 weeks old tho.


Kronic,this is only my second grow ith th Aerogarden but ive been through alot with it.i used the tabs it came with at frst, but now i use CANNA line or General Hydroponics and they grow much faster with the these nutes and look healthier.You are going to need to purchase some nutes


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## KronicChris420 (Aug 5, 2008)

OK i went up to the ole hydro expo and picked the floragro, floramicro, and florabloom setup. So that problem is solved, but my next question is lighting. Ive heard that with the stock parts the back row of plants receive more light so i have them all in the back. Anyone kept this stock light all the way through bloom stage and everything? how did it go? Is it worth replacin the light? If so what kind of light? I have limited closet space/ventilation, and heat would prolly be a pretty big factor. Also what setting do you guys have your AG on? Anyone know the specs for the water recirculation on different settings? 

Also a little tip for beginners- Leaving one or two of you pod holes empty will actually create more DO(dissolved oxygen) in your water from the waterfall effect.


----------



## purpdaddy (Aug 5, 2008)

KronicChris420 said:


> OK i went up to the ole hydro expo and picked the floragro, floramicro, and florabloom setup. So that problem is solved, but my next question is lighting. Ive heard that with the stock parts the back row of plants receive more light so i have them all in the back. Anyone kept this stock light all the way through bloom stage and everything? how did it go? Is it worth replacin the light? If so what kind of light? I have limited closet space/ventilation, and heat would prolly be a pretty big factor. Also what setting do you guys have your AG on? Anyone know the specs for the water recirculation on different settings?
> 
> Also a little tip for beginners- Leaving one or two of you pod holes empty will actually create more DO(dissolved oxygen) in your water from the waterfall effect.


ok.cool got ur nutes now lighting is definiteley ur next problem.it depends on how much space you have maybe if you are limited you might want to get a couple cfl's for side lighting.you are going to need side lighting.now if you can use hid, thats a totally diff. ball game.thats what i am bout to do.im going with HPS and MH 600W.i have a little space so thats what i am going with but for now i just got the upgrade hood attatched to the AG and hung the light it came with on the side and a 65w grow lamp on the other side and i need more lighting so you might want to consider this!


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## KronicChris420 (Aug 5, 2008)

What about short term? im going to order the extension accessorie with the better lights from aerogardens website, but what can i do in the short term? lots of foil and white?


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## royalgreen (Aug 6, 2008)

hey everyone newbie to hydro here.im starting my frist aero grow and need some tips on size and such...i plan to use a dwc setup.

SH Hydroponics, Inc. > Bubbleponics Pro Expandable Kit 

and was wondering what you guys thought about having 6 plant like it show's here... would this be okay for a short grow(thinking about try scrog at the same time?).  im going to pick up the supplies i need this weekend journal soon to come.

*Suggestion would be great*


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## KronicChris420 (Aug 6, 2008)

ok i went ahead and got an airstone and pump but is kinda big about 4 inches in diameter and flat like a plate. can i overdue it with these things? how long was the timetable for your whole process? including cure and dry. the guy in hightimes said it took him 64 days with the lowrider seeds.When did you decide to flower? was is size or age? This is my first go so i have no idea what my seeds are or what my schedule should be. Im at 3 and a half weeks of 18/6 and about 5-7 inches tall. Any tips or exp is appreciated. 

I also read in another thread about a guy with the same nutes and got a severe allergic reaction when he smoked his bud. I heard that flushing your plants is necessary? Is this true and if so when and how long etc..


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## potroast (Aug 7, 2008)

Chris, you are basically asking how do I grow pot. All of your questions are already answered here, maybe some in this thread. You just need to start reading the stuff that is here. As you pick up the basics, we'll help you with specific questions.

HTH


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## kaos.underwave (Aug 7, 2008)

Hey purp daddy, all the charts are right there on the site. Dont know about strong, there are people around here that swear by the exact doses they recommend. Canna also have a nutrient calculator on the site, into which you input your tank size and water type, and they add it all up for you


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## purpdaddy (Aug 7, 2008)

oh yea .good looking out i have those already.i was seeing if i could find another one.appreciate it anyway!


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## kaos.underwave (Aug 8, 2008)

damn, if only these mouse fingers were quicker...

did I read correctly you're switching out the AG light to 600w HPS _and _MH?
At the same time? Even if not your plants will be loving it..thats one hell of an upgrade
that gardens gonna be green man...you just gonna take the top part of the AG off?

you get your answer to the distance query yet? I can jump in late again...hooray
I got my 600w HPS about 8-9 inches away in flower [with cooltube] any closer they started to fry
A cooltube is definitely worth it with a 600, and definitely with the temps a 600 mh puts out.
Just give your girls some time to adjust and try to slowly get it within 15 inches if they can handle it,
keep an eye on the temps, if alls well those sidebranches are gonna bush out like hell, and they wont get taller at half the rate they have. when are the new lights coming?

hey Potroast how come you dont like AGs? I guess there doesnt look like much rootspace, but it looks moddable....evil scientist style...dissect...and improve...then laugh


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## grap3vine (Aug 8, 2008)

JesuZ said:


> completly new to hydro system...
> can anyone help out??


What did you need to know?


----------



## stickyicky77 (Aug 8, 2008)

kaos.underwave said:


> damn, if only these mouse fingers were quicker...
> 
> did I read correctly you're switching out the AG light to 600w HPS _and _MH?
> At the same time? Even if not your plants will be loving it..thats one hell of an upgrade
> ...


Check out my journal and you can see how you can put that AG and 600W light to good use.


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## purpdaddy (Aug 8, 2008)

grap3vine said:


> What did you need to know?


 start like everyone else did.read the threads maybe start ur own.start at page 1 and read on.get ur hands on any new marijuana horticulture bibles...very useful info..and read the grow faq and that should answer ur question!


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## ratman (Aug 8, 2008)

roadguy said:


> Cali girl, very little light on clones, I use 2 t5 6400k full spectrum. also use a product called propogator from future harvest development. I am also a huge believer in Vitam B, helps plant get through stress, just like us. By the way if that pic is u, looks pretty nice.


how are you introducing the vitamin b to the clones???


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## snoopdog621 (Aug 10, 2008)

kaos ive noticed that with my plants ... since i added cfls with my hps the plants aint as tall as my last crop ... but are real bushy with loads of growth spots


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## stickyicky77 (Aug 10, 2008)

Hey Potroast , i have a question for you. Do you have a 50-50% chance of getting fem seeds from a crop the got pollinated by one clone that turned hermie and pollinated a all female crop of clones?


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## Big333hands (Aug 10, 2008)

potroast said:


> All right! Hydroponics is what I know, and hydroponics is the way I grow!
> 
> This forum will be great, we can discuss anything hydro. No dirtbags here, We haul water!
> 
> ...


What up fellows? I'm new to the hydro grow... and i'll be doing the hydro outside... what is a good feeding schedule? Using Bumper Crop nutrients A and B in the vegging stage. my plants are about 5 weeks old. they were started in soil, but moved to hydro last week. they seem to be yellowing a bit at the bottom. any tips would be appreciated. thanks!


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## potroast (Aug 11, 2008)

stickyicky77 said:


> Hey Potroast , i have a question for you. Do you have a 50-50% chance of getting fem seeds from a crop the got pollinated by one clone that turned hermie and pollinated a all female crop of clones?



Nope.

The way I understand it is that a non-hermie female is stressed to hermie, and she self-pollinates and those seeds are feminized. If she pollinates the adjacent plant, those seeds will become hermie plants, or at least carry the hermie trait.

HTH


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## purpdaddy (Aug 12, 2008)

potroast said:


> Nope.
> 
> The way I understand it is that a non-hermie female is stressed to hermie, and she self-pollinates and those seeds are feminized. If she pollinates the adjacent plant, those seeds will become hermie plants, or at least carry the hermie trait.
> 
> HTH


 that is exactly the way it is done.


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## kaos.underwave (Aug 12, 2008)

"kaos ive noticed that with my plants ... since i added cfls with my hps the plants aint as tall as my last crop ... but are real bushy with loads of growth spots"
Nice, cfls down low? sounds ideal, might whack a few in. I love bushes! 

"Originally Posted by *stickyicky77*  
_Hey Potroast , i have a question for you. Do you have a 50-50% chance of getting fem seeds from a crop the got pollinated by one clone that turned hermie and pollinated a all female crop of clones?_

Nope.

The way I understand it is that a non-hermie female is stressed to hermie, and she self-pollinates and those seeds are feminized. If she pollinates the adjacent plant, those seeds will become hermie plants, or at least carry the hermie trait."

Ok, wait Im still confused...So all the seeds will be fem, but they all might hermie?


----------



## sleeper05 (Aug 12, 2008)

I was reading the Marijuana's Grow Bible last night... in the breeding section. Or maybe it was just some forum.... who knows... anyways, plants can carry an XX, Xx, or xx. with feminized seeds they are XX while males are xx and Xx being the hermie's. When choosing a plant to breed with you want to find the XX *complete female* and to find this you must plant alot of seeds and then work on stressing the plants under the lights working 12/12 and 24/0 to see if you're plant will be a hermie. If it doesn't try to seed itself you have found something that is very special and should keep this XX as a basis for creation. 

Is this complete bullshit coming out of my mouth... who knows I haven't tried it.


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## potroast (Aug 13, 2008)

kaos.underwave said:


> Ok, wait Im still confused...So all the seeds will be fem, but they all might hermie?


No, the question is whether the seed will have a hermie trait, because a grower will toss any seed that has that possibility. If the pollen came from a female and pollinated herself, then those seeds will be the feminized you are looking for. If the pollen gets on another female, then those seeds will be variable sex, and could have the hermie trait.




sleeper05 said:


> I was reading the Marijuana's Grow Bible last night... in the breeding section. Or maybe it was just some forum.... who knows... anyways, plants can carry an XX, Xx, or xx. with feminized seeds they are XX while males are xx and Xx being the hermie's. When choosing a plant to breed with you want to find the XX *complete female* and to find this you must plant alot of seeds and then work on stressing the plants under the lights working 12/12 and 24/0 to see if you're plant will be a hermie. If it doesn't try to seed itself you have found something that is very special and should keep this XX as a basis for creation.
> 
> Is this complete bullshit coming out of my mouth... who knows I haven't tried it.


The XX 'complete female' is the typical female plant with no hermie trait, and if you are able to stress her to produce some pollen, that's a way to make feminized seeds.

HTH


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## purpdaddy (Aug 13, 2008)

i have a question.ok my crop was about a month old and suffered some heat stress,burned a couple of fan leaves.i cut the ones that had over 50% damage.what is the posssibility that they will hermi???


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## potroast (Aug 14, 2008)

There's very little possibility that they will sprout pollen sacks because of some high heat that damaged some leaves.

HTH


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## brooklyn87 (Aug 14, 2008)

what are some good organic nutrients that i can use in my ebb and flow? has ANY one grown organic hydro yet,if so what where your results and taste compared to normal nutrients?


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## ratman (Aug 14, 2008)

potroast i am currently growing some power plant in a grow canada hydro box but after seeing snoopdogs shizzle i decided to up my program. i just bought a 1000wt hps and a 400wt mh each fixture is set up for a 6" cooling tube. i bought a carbon filter and fan assm. i also bought a co2 controller that measures ppm and temp. i plan to clone and start the clones under two 150 florescent lights then move them to the 400wt mh lights. how long after the clones root should i wait before putting them under the mh light and how close to the plants can i put the 400"? how far from the plants should i keep the 1000wt lamp? i plan to keep my mothers in dirt but want to build my own hydro set up. i had a pump failure while at the beach with my grow canada box and kilt my chit boo hoo, so plan to run 2 pumps in parrallel on this set up with check balls in line so they wont back flow and 1 pump will keep things alive until i can swap out a faulty pump. i also plan to put nylon stockings over the entire pump to work as a pre filter to keep trash out of the pump. if you were setting this up would you go aero or hyrdo??? i purchased a bunch of sprayer heads to water via aero, should the aero spray the roots the entire time the lights are on? is there a timer i can set up to run the sprayers like on 4 out of five minutes with a 1 minute off cycle? would that be preferred to running the sprayers full time? i plan to used an entire room and build a sub room for my flowering room. who sells a thick reflective curtain for the door way to the flowering room, i want easy in and out buy just closing the curtain to keep light off the plants as the lights in the rest of the room will be on an 18 hour cycle. potroast thx so much for any advice you can lend...im going to start my new set up with kush and powerplant, and will add two other strains next cycle... wahoo!!!


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## runacat (Aug 14, 2008)

Is there a taste difference between hydro or dirt grown?


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## potroast (Aug 15, 2008)

brooklyn87 said:


> what are some good organic nutrients that i can use in my ebb and flow? has ANY one grown organic hydro yet,if so what where your results and taste compared to normal nutrients?



Yeah, I run mostly organic hydro nutes now using GH FloraNova. It's better than the other 2 brands that I've used, Botanicare Pure Blend Pro, and B'Cuzz Atami organics. I also use a kelp supplement.

I really don't know about taste differences, they all taste good to me. I've compared my bud with other grower's organic soil-grown bud, and they all say that mine is better.

HTH


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## potroast (Aug 15, 2008)

ratman said:


> i plan to clone and start the clones under two 150 florescent lights then move them to the 400wt mh lights. how long after the clones root should i wait before putting them under the mh light and how close to the plants can i put the 400"? how far from the plants should i keep the 1000wt lamp?


Hey ratman, you won't need that much light for rooting cuttings. Figure about 20 watts per sqft of cloning area, so if you have 2 sqft of cuttings, you need about 40 watts of fluorescent over them. Once they are rooted they can go under the bright. Start your 400 at 3 feet above, and lower the light 6 inches every 2-3 days, down to 1 foot above. For your 1K, keep it 15-18 inches above. That's the beauty of air-cooled hoods.




ratman said:


> if you were setting this up would you go aero or hydro???


Well, aero is a form of hydro, so yes. 



ratman said:


> i purchased a bunch of sprayer heads to water via aero, should the aero spray the roots the entire time the lights are on? is there a timer i can set up to run the sprayers like on 4 out of five minutes with a 1 minute off cycle? would that be preferred to running the sprayers full time?


I've never messed with sprayers, but they usually spray 24/7. If you have a cyclestat timer, go with 1 minute ON and 4 minutes OFF.




ratman said:


> i plan to used an entire room and build a sub room for my flowering room. who sells a thick reflective curtain for the door way to the flowering room, i want easy in and out buy just closing the curtain to keep light off the plants as the lights in the rest of the room will be on an 18 hour cycle.


A lot of growers use panda plastic, and it will work well, but it's noisy and gets dried out and crinkled pretty fast. I've always used some heavy black fabric.

HTH


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## ratman (Aug 15, 2008)

potroast, i ended up going with 1000wt mh for veg it was only a few bucks more than the 400. i will pick up a small 40 or so watt flourescent light for my clones, but now that i have the two 150wt flourescent lights. (they are the type with five u shaped tubes in a circle that mount to the screw in base) would you use the 150's to supplement the 1000wt mh for veg or the 1000wt hps for flower or one in each area??? thx so much for your advice...BTW i just picked up some flourolicious to add to my next cycle, i want to show the girls as much love as possible.lol


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## potroast (Aug 16, 2008)

You may find a use for those CFLs as side lighting for some plants in the flowering room, or maybe for some mother plants.

HTH


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## redpicasso (Aug 16, 2008)

What is the difference between clone and regular seeds in hydro grow.
I would like to make hydro grow (rockwool)(vertical 360° SOG) with regular seeds because i dont have place for big mothers to make clones. What do you suggest i attempt to use white rino and LST method for lowering plants?!?


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## potroast (Aug 17, 2008)

The problem is not the size of the plant, it's the motion of the ocean, so to speak. 

The difference between a seed plant and a cutting is the roots. The system you're talking about using is designed for plants with a diffuse root system, like a cutting. A seed plant has 1 big root, and many small ones.

and welcome to Rollitup! 

HTH


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## birdd69 (Aug 17, 2008)

Hi. I've used Rapid Grow Bloom water soluable granuals with good success.
It's 15/30/15. Good ingrecients list too. But that was for soil.

Can I use them in a rubbermaid tub 20 gal bubbler?

I've got a bucket of the stuff still and will be switching to hydro flowering next time.

Thanks.


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## potroast (Aug 18, 2008)

If the label doesn't mention hydroponics, then I wouldn't use it. Soil fertilizers don't contain many trace elements, because they are already in the soil. For best results with hydro, use some hydro nutes.

HTH


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## gvega187 (Aug 18, 2008)

hello mr. roast! I has a two question for you today. 

1)when using normal starter plug humidome cloning tray. Is it necessary to keep the water level 1/4 the way up till the end? I feel that maybe leaving it almost completely dry for the last 3-4 days might help.

I end up having to change the water 2-3 times before all my clones pop roots and when they do 1/4 of them are grimey. I use 1ml/litre h2o2 coir plugs

2) do you use superthrive? Al B. puts it in the magical sauce category, but I feel it may be something I could utilize with my consistent root stressing. If so what concentration do you use with cloning and or normal hydro use.


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## PanamaRed (Aug 20, 2008)

Hi Potroast. I would like to put six plants in my drip irrigation system using only Hydroton with 1 1000 wt. light. The pots are two gallon bato buckets. Can you suggest a feeding schedule that I could use for this scenario throughout the plants' lives? An archetype would be extremely helpful.

Thank you in advance.


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## potroast (Aug 21, 2008)

gvega187 said:


> hello mr. roast! I has a two question for you today.
> 
> 1)when using normal starter plug humidome cloning tray. Is it necessary to keep the water level 1/4 the way up till the end? I feel that maybe leaving it almost completely dry for the last 3-4 days might help.
> 
> ...


I'm a little confused, are you saying you leave your plugs in standing water? I would not suggest that, I only use rockwool, it should always be wet, but it should never be left in water. I've never had grimey roots. Is that 50 percent H2O2? What else are you putting in your soup?

Yes, I've always used SuperThrive. It's mostly vitamin B, but it's so concentrated that it's cheap and easy to use. For rooting solution I use 20 drops/gallon, about 1ml. Then for veg and the first 3 weeks of flowering I use 2 drops/gallon.

HTH


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## potroast (Aug 21, 2008)

PanamaRed said:


> Hi Potroast. I would like to put six plants in my drip irrigation system using only Hydroton with 1 1000 wt. light. The pots are two gallon bato buckets. Can you suggest a feeding schedule that I could use for this scenario throughout the plants' lives? An archetype would be extremely helpful.
> 
> Thank you in advance.



There are too many variables to just say do this. If the environmental factors are controlled you would do well with a 800-1000ppm veg mix, and a 1200-1500ppm flowering mix. Temperature extremes will change this, as will the addition of CO2.

The easiest way to start is to follow the label instructions/website formula, and use less, say one-half or two-thirds, and see how your plants react.

HTH


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## gvega187 (Aug 21, 2008)

potroast said:


> I'm a little confused, are you saying you leave your plugs in standing water? I would not suggest that, I only use rockwool, it should always be wet, but it should never be left in water. I've never had grimey roots. Is that 50 percent H2O2? What else are you putting in your soup?
> 
> Yes, I've always used SuperThrive. It's mostly vitamin B, but it's so concentrated that it's cheap and easy to use. For rooting solution I use 20 drops/gallon, about 1ml. Then for veg and the first 3 weeks of flowering I use 2 drops/gallon.
> 
> HTH


Yes the bottom of the coco starter plugs are left in standing water. For how long is uncertain, but they do dry ALOT quicker than RW. All i ever hear about RW is that it never dries out....would someone like to tell me something good about rw? 

Has anyone EVER seen a good thread on rapid rooter cloning? It must royally suck for some reason which is beyond explaination. 

no, 35% h2o2...where are you buying 50% and is it worth it for some reason? Thanks a lot pot and anyone else who may reply.


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## sleeper05 (Aug 22, 2008)

Hey roast, I did a switch from my 400w hps to a 1000w hps thinking that all will be better. Well it has only brought about problems with heat. I have read a few different posts on how to keep root rot from forming in my rez. There isn't a hydro store in my town so the closest place to getting them is 2 hours away. I'm not using any hydro zone or whatever the stuff is called that I've heard will help to stop root rot. I've raised the light up up and up trying to stop so much heat from warming my rez temps. Lately I've been adding little containers with frozen blocks of ice to try and keep the temps down but I'm sure they melt away within half an hour and could also be shocking the plants. I've looked into chillers *wow they're expensive* and the possibility of just getting a deep freeze or even an a/c for the house but they seem like it's alot of money to spend on the set up for now. We have just started to get into our hot season too.... 30 d. celcius is becoming a regular day. On my next water change... which would be tomorrow if all goes well I will lower nute concentrations, right now i'm at about 800 ppm. Oh... I also bought a little fan to blow air across the rez 24/7. 

Don't suppose you have any other suggestions for tryin to keep these babies alive?


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## VictorVIcious (Aug 22, 2008)

gvega187 said:


> Yes the bottom of the coco starter plugs are left in standing water. For how long is uncertain, but they do dry ALOT quicker than RW. All i ever hear about RW is that it never dries out....would someone like to tell me something good about rw?
> 
> Has anyone EVER seen a good thread on rapid rooter cloning? It must royally suck for some reason which is beyond explaination.
> 
> no, 35% h2o2...where are you buying 50% and is it worth it for some reason? Thanks a lot pot and anyone else who may reply.


I used the Rapid Rooters, its posted in my first journal. You are correct, they will dry out faster then the rockwool, I found I had to water them every few days. Properly prepared rockwool cubes are excellent for clones because they hold a lot of moisture and as long as you don't overwater them, give you a good anchoring point, they seem to get bigger stems. VV


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## potroast (Aug 22, 2008)

sleeper05 said:


> Hey roast, I did a switch from my 400w hps to a 1000w hps thinking that all will be better. Well it has only brought about problems with heat. I have read a few different posts on how to keep root rot from forming in my rez. There isn't a hydro store in my town so the closest place to getting them is 2 hours away. I'm not using any hydro zone or whatever the stuff is called that I've heard will help to stop root rot. I've raised the light up up and up trying to stop so much heat from warming my rez temps. Lately I've been adding little containers with frozen blocks of ice to try and keep the temps down but I'm sure they melt away within half an hour and could also be shocking the plants. I've looked into chillers *wow they're expensive* and the possibility of just getting a deep freeze or even an a/c for the house but they seem like it's alot of money to spend on the set up for now. We have just started to get into our hot season too.... 30 d. celcius is becoming a regular day. On my next water change... which would be tomorrow if all goes well I will lower nute concentrations, right now i'm at about 800 ppm. Oh... I also bought a little fan to blow air across the rez 24/7.
> 
> Don't suppose you have any other suggestions for tryin to keep these babies alive?



With any HID lamp you've got to exhaust the heat from the room. Fix that first, and your res temp problem will go away. In the meantime, maybe move your res out of the growroom.

HTH


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## kermitthepermit (Aug 22, 2008)

Hey im growing in an nft system and i want to keep my plants small.
How long should i veg before switchin to 12/12, i was thinking wait till they develop 
the first set of leaves then switch,will it work? Im growing barneys G13haze and Blue Cheese


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## gvega187 (Aug 22, 2008)

VictorVIcious said:


> I used the Rapid Rooters, its posted in my first journal. You are correct, they will dry out faster then the rockwool, I found I had to water them every few days. Properly prepared rockwool cubes are excellent for clones because they hold a lot of moisture and as long as you don't overwater them, give you a good anchoring point, they seem to get bigger stems. VV


hey thanks a lot VV. I am working on the theory that you leave about 3/16th water level in the tray for the first 4-5 days before roots potentially pop. Then, soak the cubes periodically from that point on to avoid rotting the roots off in standing water. The rapid rooter tray method has worked in the past for me, but varies greatly. Anywhere from 60-95% success. I think it would be best for me to master this technique before trying the possibly superior RW method. 

Thanks for the reply and anyone else with rapid rooter input/experience please comment.


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## VictorVIcious (Aug 23, 2008)

I have used Rapid Rooters, Jiffy Pellets, rock wool, dirt and no medium at all. all of them work. When I first started the Rapid Rooters were a little bigger than they are now. I point this out because I saw one of AL's responses about the rockwool cubes, He tried the one inch cubes and says they are a little to small, he uses the 40mm size with better success. VV


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## Emperor2008 (Aug 24, 2008)

I have a question..I will be flowering in a 3x3 flood table...I want to harvest 2 or 3 plants every couple weeks or something like that..I am reading where you need to flush with water for a week before harvest and I am wondering what about the plants that are not being harvested...How can I do this or is it really necessary?..Thanks...Peace


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## gvega187 (Aug 24, 2008)

just dont flush them...it is not at all necessary. 

hot topic as to whether taste is affected or not.


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## Emperor2008 (Aug 24, 2008)

Thats kinda what we were thinking but needed another opinion..thanks for yours


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## potroast (Aug 24, 2008)

kermitthepermit said:


> Hey im growing in an nft system and i want to keep my plants small.
> How long should i veg before switchin to 12/12, i was thinking wait till they develop
> the first set of leaves then switch,will it work? Im growing barneys G13haze and Blue Cheese


Most nft systems won't support a tall plant, so you must keep them small. When to switch to 12/12 will depend on the amount of light, and the strain. The general rule is to figure that your plant will triple in height after the switch, so if you want an 18 inch plant, switch the lights when they are 6 inches.

HTH


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## potroast (Aug 24, 2008)

Emperor2008 said:


> I have a question..I will be flowering in a 3x3 flood table...I want to harvest 2 or 3 plants every couple weeks or something like that..I am reading where you need to flush with water for a week before harvest and I am wondering what about the plants that are not being harvested...How can I do this or is it really necessary?..Thanks...Peace


You need to have a different reservoir for each stage of flowering. I give them 3 different soup mixes during flowering, and then the flush. You'll also find that the plants at different heights will limit the placement of your lamp over the plants.

Flushing of the medium is necessary when you use an aggressive chemical load of nutes, and your medium holds a lot of water. I use rockwool slabs, and I need to flush them regularly.

HTH


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## sleeper05 (Aug 25, 2008)

can you re-use rockwool cubes?


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## potroast (Aug 25, 2008)

You may be able to, but why would you want to? They are inexpensive, and you want to give your plant a nice place to live.

HTH


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## ratman (Aug 26, 2008)

potroast said:


> You need to have a different reservoir for each stage of flowering. I give them 3 different soup mixes during flowering, and then the flush. You'll also find that the plants at different heights will limit the placement of your lamp over the plants.
> 
> Flushing of the medium is necessary when you use an aggressive chemical load of nutes, and your medium holds a lot of water. I use rockwool slabs, and I need to flush them regularly.
> 
> HTH


pot roast please share your soup recipes for the three stages of flowering you are using. thx, rm


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## Emperor2008 (Aug 26, 2008)

I just installed a 800cfm squirrell cage fan in the flowering room and the temps are still around 82-84 degrees..I also have a 16"circulating wall mount fan and have only tested the light but have no flowering plants in there yet...that is with the light on of course..anyway is this temp going to be a problem??


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## VictorVIcious (Aug 26, 2008)

Emperor2008 said:


> I just installed a 800cfm squirrell cage fan in the flowering room and the temps are still around 82-84 degrees..I also have a 16"circulating wall mount fan and have only tested the light but have no flowering plants in there yet...that is with the light on of course..anyway is this temp going to be a problem??


Yes. 
The size of your fan doesn't matter unless we know the size of the room, for that size of fan, doesn't really matter, I will go out on a limb here and guess that you don't have your light air cooled?? a 150cfm fan will do that job for ya if you have to chain 2-1000watt lights together. If your 800cfm squirrel cage fan isn't doing it, there is something wrong. Squirrel cage fans sometimes have adjustments that can be made that change the size of the pulley so the belt will fit tighter, some have a way to move the motor and tighten the belt?? Maybe yours isn't operating at its maximum efficiency?? In any case, those temps won't kill your plants, you will not get good growth and god help you if you find you have a humidity problem with those temps. The exception to that would be co2 addition in later flowering, then 82-84 might be a little low. VV


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## DrkArt456 (Aug 26, 2008)

Hey everyone I'm new to the forum and just started my first grow a week ago after a lot of planning and researching. Here is a pic of one of my plants. I have nine growing right now and they are all white widow and all about 4 inches tall. The only thing I'm worried about is that they all seem to have weak stems. Idk if this is a problem this early or not. Let me know what you think.


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## potroast (Aug 26, 2008)

ratman said:


> pot roast please share your soup recipes for the three stages of flowering you are using. thx, rm



Easily said, it's about 800-100ppm in the first 3 weeks, and 1200-1400ppm in the second 3 weeks, and 800ppm in the last 3. I add a PK booster starting on Day 35.

HTH


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## potroast (Aug 26, 2008)

DrkArt456 said:


> Hey everyone I'm new to the forum and just started my first grow a week ago after a lot of planning and researching. Here is a pic of one of my plants. I have nine growing right now and they are all white widow and all about 4 inches tall. The only thing I'm worried about is that they all seem to have weak stems. Idk if this is a problem this early or not. Let me know what you think.



Yes, those are new little plants, all right. Their stems will strengthen as they grow and are moved by the wind. Don't have wind? use a fan. Or blow on them, they like that.

Better yet, sing to them. 

And welcome to Rollitup!

HTH


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## lorenzo08 (Aug 27, 2008)

potroast said:


> Don't have wind? use a fan. Or blow on them, they like that.



haha.. it's ok to blow in their ear, just don't fondle your buds.


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## HATCH (Aug 27, 2008)

Potroast Hey What's UP????,,,,,,,,,

Hey, I've Got A Problem I Would Like To Take Carry Of, I Call It The Claw, But Would Like To Know Why It Develope's, & How To Prevent It.

I Use Aeroponoic's, My PPM Is Around 1400, PH. Around 6.3, They Are In 2" Basket's & 2" Rapid Starter Plug's With A 2" Neoprene Collar,They Get Misted Every Other-Hour For 15min.,The Temp's In The Aeroponic Pod's Is Around 65* To 70*,,They Have Great Root Development,,,The Air Temp's In The Grow Chamber Is Around 79*.

I Use To Just Water 6 Time's A Day, That Worked Out To Be Every 4-Hour's For 15min.,,& Had The Claw Then Too,,I Also Was Getting Some Root-Rot,I Have Noticed That The 2" Plug's Stay To Wet, So I Have Started Cloning With Just The 2" Basket's & Neoprene Collar's With Great Success...

I Don't Think That This is A Big Problem????,,,,It Just Doesn't Look Very Good,,,Just That You Might Be Able To Shed Some Light On The Problem???


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## potroast (Aug 28, 2008)

Hey Hatch

From those pix I would say you've got several problems. Probably too hot in the room, or at least not enough fresh air. And a nutrient problem, could be just from too high a pH, keep it close to 5.8, or possibly too strong for your plants. And every aero system that I've seen sprayed constantly, or in very short intervals. Root rot is caused mainly by too warm res temps. Check the temp, and add H2O2 if necessary.

So,

improve ventilation for fresh air, should help with res temps too.

spray constantly or use a cyclestat timer.

feed them nutes at 800ppm for a couple of weeks, pH 5.8.

Let us know how it goes. 

HTH


----------



## HATCH (Aug 28, 2008)

potroast said:


> Hey Hatch
> 
> From those pix I would say you've got several problems. Probably too hot in the room, or at least not enough fresh air. And a nutrient problem, could be just from too high a pH, keep it close to 5.8, or possibly too strong for your plants. And every aero system that I've seen sprayed constantly, or in very short intervals. Root rot is caused mainly by too warm res temps. Check the temp, and add H2O2 if necessary.
> 
> ...


OK, Thank's For The Relpy My Brother!!!I'll Work On It!!


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## [email protected] (Aug 30, 2008)

pot roast i am 3 1/2 wks in flowering papaya in hydro dwc bubbler and i have never grown in hydro should my buds be doing better than little white m&m's by now or what no pics for now sorry


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## [email protected] (Aug 30, 2008)

can anyone help me with this please!!!!


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## potroast (Aug 31, 2008)

heehee, thanks Bob, I needed that! You didn't get a reply in 9 minutes, so you posted again.

Funny stuff. 

And yes, your buds are right where they should be, where ever that is.

HTH


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## [email protected] (Sep 1, 2008)

ok you dont know me but this is my first time flowering some papayas my biggest bud or flower is no bigger than the end of your thumb at 4wks some days i come home from work and they stink real good and then i get worried if once or twice i have came in and the plants have hardly any smell is this normal and in dwc bubbler two 18'' air stones and 400w hps i also feed them co2 and iam working on getting you some pics thank you


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## VictorVIcious (Sep 1, 2008)

Your plants odor will be the strongest just before lights on and just before lights off, and will vary between those hours. What did the seed company say the flowering time is for that strain? VV


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## xochi (Sep 2, 2008)

Hola! 
hippie girl working in my closet here, I have a ventilated propagation box, under 2 fluorescent 2" lights, sealed, w/zipper access, chest level. Along side is my growing enclosure, white polyfilm 7" zipper access, sun systems 250 watt hps lighting. Ventilation sytem is a 265cfm blower in and a 265cfm blower out. Exhaust air goes into carbon filter mounted in top cavity of the closet. Axial fans in and out create air exchange eliminating heat signature and temperature change in my bedroom. I'm growing in a dwc/active drip system, 2 ft flexible airstone, with technaflora nutes rockwool on grow rocks, waiting on co2 tank from the restraunt association that i will hook up to a ppm meter. I'll post pics if anyone can tell me how, lovin big yeilds, how about you?


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## lagwag (Sep 2, 2008)

Doing my first ebb and flow tray soon... Have 3 by 3 table and 40 gal. rez all set up and ready to roll.. Have gh flora series 3 part and floralicious bloom.. Been trying to locate a good week by week feeding schedule so i don't f*ck up the first time. I don't wanna burn my girls until they're ready. : ) Any advice would be shweet. growing in 6" net pots with hydroton under 1000 watt hps.


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## potroast (Sep 3, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> ok you dont know me but this is my first time flowering some papayas my biggest bud or flower is no bigger than the end of your thumb at 4wks some days i come home from work and they stink real good and then i get worried if once or twice i have came in and the plants have hardly any smell is this normal and in dwc bubbler two 18'' air stones and 400w hps i also feed them co2 and iam working on getting you some pics thank you



Yes, your plants are just starting the rapid flower development stage, AKA the *middle third*, or as the Julian calendar says weeks 4 through 6. 

Now when you get to week 7 you'll say, wow these look done. But they're not done, the _*last third*,_ or weeks 7 through 9 (and on) is the ripening stage, and that is when your patience will pay off.





xochi said:


> Hola!
> hippie girl working in my closet here, I have a ventilated propagation box, under 2 fluorescent 2" lights, sealed, w/zipper access, chest level. Along side is my growing enclosure, white polyfilm 7" zipper access, sun systems 250 watt hps lighting. Ventilation sytem is a 265cfm blower in and a 265cfm blower out. Exhaust air goes into carbon filter mounted in top cavity of the closet. Axial fans in and out create air exchange eliminating heat signature and temperature change in my bedroom. I'm growing in a dwc/active drip system, 2 ft flexible airstone, with technaflora nutes rockwool on grow rocks, waiting on co2 tank from the restraunt association that i will hook up to a ppm meter. I'll post pics if anyone can tell me how, lovin big yeilds, how about you?


Hola, hippie. Your setup sounds good, I hope with all of that ventilation that you are able to keep the temps down. I would hold off on using the CO2 in your bedroom, until you are sure where your growroom exhaust is going.





lagwag said:


> Doing my first ebb and flow tray soon... Have 3 by 3 table and 40 gal. rez all set up and ready to roll.. Have gh flora series 3 part and floralicious bloom.. Been trying to locate a good week by week feeding schedule so i don't f*ck up the first time. I don't wanna burn my girls until they're ready. : ) Any advice would be shweet. growing in 6" net pots with hydroton under 1000 watt hps.



You could just use 5ml/gallon of each all the way through, and be just fine. Or you could start with that, and as you go along and read your plants, you could try some small adjustments, like increasing the bloom in mid flowering.


HTH


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## Emperor2008 (Sep 3, 2008)

I have a question....First my plants are about 3weeks into veg and I noticed some burn on the edges so I flushed them for a couple days with a quarter nute and now I have bumped it up to 590ppm and a 5.8ph...also I am flooding the table 4 times in a 24 hr period..lights are fluros and on for 24hrs...Question is my ph seems to go up to about 6.1 and ppms are either going up or staying the same..shouldnt ppms be going down?Thanks for your time.


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## Dieguez (Sep 3, 2008)

Hi, guys. I'm planning to start hydroponic growing in my closet, but I'm quite new at this and I can't find a thread like "Hydroponic for dummies" or something. Could somebody help me?

Thanks!


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## lorenzo08 (Sep 3, 2008)

Emperor2008 said:


> I have a question....First my plants are about 3weeks into veg and I noticed some burn on the edges so I flushed them for a couple days with a quarter nute and now I have bumped it up to 590ppm and a 5.8ph...also I am flooding the table 4 times in a 24 hr period..lights are fluros and on for 24hrs...Question is my ph seems to go up to about 6.1 and ppms are either going up or staying the same..shouldnt ppms be going down?Thanks for your time.



ppm can go up as water evaporates from the res, or as plants use the water. just add fresh ph-ed water to your res to keep it at the right level. I would suggest lowering your ph to 5.7 or 5.6, so it stays below 6 longer and will stray to the target ph on its own. algae or bacteria problems can cause ph to fluctuate too.


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## lorenzo08 (Sep 3, 2008)

lagwag said:


> Doing my first ebb and flow tray soon... Have 3 by 3 table and 40 gal. rez all set up and ready to roll.. Have gh flora series 3 part and floralicious bloom.. Been trying to locate a good week by week feeding schedule so i don't f*ck up the first time. I don't wanna burn my girls until they're ready. : ) Any advice would be shweet. growing in 6" net pots with hydroton under 1000 watt hps.



I recommend this: https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/4387-lucas-formula.html

it's been working great for me


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## Emperor2008 (Sep 4, 2008)

Thanks for that info....now here is another question...my seedlings are about two weeks old and turning yellow..can you help them?? They are in rockwool and I have been giving them ph'ed water...Thanks for any help..I have also posted better pics on the next page ..these turned out blurry


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## Emperor2008 (Sep 4, 2008)

Hopefully these are some better pics to go with my question above..


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## Incognitto (Sep 5, 2008)

Hey Emperor...

I use almost the exact same equipment/setup you do...
Those seedlings in that tray- if they are 2weeks old and all youve been giving them is water they are probably starving for some nutes!! The seeds only have enough self contained food in them to get em popped up... you keep feeding them just water and of course they are going to show problematic symptoms.

Mix up a gallon of about 300ppm fox farm grow big or pure blend pro grow in a bottle and splash a little bit of it in the bottom of your propagation tray... let those cubes get wet... just splash a little bit of your nute mix in the bottom of the tray a couple times a day...what youre trying to do is get those cubes WET, then let em dry out over the course of the day (they will retain plently of water and air) then 10 hours later or so splash a little more in the bottom of the tray..

what I do sometimes is mix up solution around 300ppm in a tupperware bowl and just dip those cubes in halfway and put em back in the tray and let em dry out. then just keep your bowl sealed in a cool dark place (like under a sink or in a cabinet). And for storage i just take the lid off and back on and shake it up every couple days. Works great!.... 

just remember those cubes hold plenty of air and water.. so as long as they arent directly sitting in stable water, youre not going to drown your plants... they may feel super wet/soaking to you but as long as you just let them drain themselves off at their own pace you really cant screw anything up. 

so ya just start giving them some nutes ....

if youre using fox farms... the doseage on the back of the bottle for "seedlings and cuttings" will come out around 500ppm which is just fine for those seedlings.


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## Incognitto (Sep 5, 2008)

oh also i use that same flood table, i have several 4x4's with the same pots and rocks... i keep my RW cubes about an inch above the waterline (props to Al B and VV) .... and flood for 15mins every 2 hours during the light cycle. I have a airstone in the reservoir as well. Its a $5 air pump from the aquarium store in a 40gal reservoir. 

Remember, as long as you are giving oxygenating your nutes well... you can flood every hour if you want to... its not going to hurt, burn, drown anything.

I battled this for a LONG time... it seemed like no matter how many google searches i did for it, everyone had a different answer for how often to flood...

so i went to my guy at one of our 7 different hydro shops here in Seattle (yes hempfest fucking rocked!!) whos been at hydro since the 70's... hes got shit growing in there thats just fucking amazing!!! He said "bro... flood that fucking table every hour... as long as that RW cube isnt below the waterline and your pumping nutes from an oxygenated reservoir, youre not going to drown anything... theres just gotta be plenty of oxygen" 

Although i only pop my head on these boards every now and again... ive been growing for a while... but hydro is ALWAYS NEW since its never ending learning... some of you may remember I had a Hydrofarm Habitat that was off gassing and killing my plants... so after 4 different batches i needed to save an entire crop ASAP! 

so i got taller pots... filled them higher with more rocks and got that cube outta the waterline... and did what the guy said and im flooding every 2 hours for 15mins... and everythings coming back perfectly!!... oh and i got a shorter spill off drain to lower the waterline... what happens is that it really makes those roots reach/stretch out to get into that water... especially if you are having problems you can drop your PPM (I went from 1500ppm to 850ppm to save my crops) this makes those roots "dig" down for more potent nutes... if the nutes are potent and readily available what reason do the roots have to grow? They dont. anyways im gettin off topic now ... i tend to ramble...

and just for a little more confidence... this guy had a 10gal glass jar, basket hanging from the brim... waterline was ALL THE WAY TO THE TOP OF THE JAR... roots hung down about 18" to the bottom of the jar, CONSTANTLY SUBMERGED in water... and a huge air pump in the bottom bubbling away... ive seen DWC before but this was extreme!! The roots were submerged 24/7 with that air pump tickin away! He said.. "here is proof that you can flood your table as often as you want with a good air pump in your reservoir" nuff said.


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## GypsyBush (Sep 5, 2008)

xochi said:


> Hola! I'll post pics if anyone can tell me how...


Hola! Xochi...!!!

Como estas...??!??

You can post pictures by using the "Manage attachments" button below the reply window...

Then you can browse you computer and upload the photos...

I wan to see them pictures of yours, sounds like a neat set up...

Well, behave now...

Gypsy...


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## Emperor2008 (Sep 5, 2008)

Thanks Incognito...you are exactly right...I did mix up a little nutes the same day and presto they are standing tall and proud...the RW cubes are cold so maybe I need a heat pad under them?? I believe I will do as you say on the flooding next round...Anyway thanks for all the advice and Happy Growing I think i will start flowering maybe on sunday...


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## Incognitto (Sep 5, 2008)

Youre absolutely right! A propagation heat pad is worth EVERY PENNY! I never thought id need to spend 30 bucks on one, so for the longest time i always cloned/propagated/rooted without one... one day i had 30 bones burnin a hole in my pocket and i picked one up for shits n giggles whatever... it literally cut my rooting/cloning time by a week and so ive used it ever since... i bought the hydrofarm one and never bought a rheostat/thermostat for it because it seems to be the perfect temp right outta the box. It really does work well!! they take about 2 hours to reach peak temperature and its funny how little heat they do give off... but they DO work and you DO get much better results!


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## GypsyBush (Sep 5, 2008)

Incognitto said:


> and just for a little more confidence... this guy had a 10gal glass jar, basket hanging from the brim... waterline was ALL THE WAY TO THE TOP OF THE JAR... roots hung down about 18" to the bottom of the jar, CONSTANTLY SUBMERGED in water... and a huge air pump in the bottom bubbling away... ive seen DWC before but this was extreme!! The roots were submerged 24/7 with that air pump tickin away! He said.. "here is proof that you can flood your table as often as you want with a good air pump in your reservoir" nuff said.


Sorry to butt in...

No rockwool... right?!?!

Do you know how he supported the plant?

I use foam, with the roots submerged 24/7...

But I do everything in miniature...

Just curious...

Gypsy...


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## Incognitto (Sep 6, 2008)

Ya its a HUGE glass jar... about 2' tall and 1.5' wide at the base. He used a standard bucket top lid with a 8" basket cut in and installed. The plant had a 1" rw cube it was originally propagated in, nested in the 8" basket filled with hydroton. He had standard adjustable light hangars hanging from the ceiling down to a structure made from 1/2 pvc pipe. This way he could always adjust up or down the support system. He was growing tomatoes in Fox Farms nutes inside a Darkroom. (I made the switch from habitats to darkrooms as well and they are a far superior tent!) Considering the habitats were killing my plants, i guess anything is far superior haha

It was just crazy to see roots dangling in a jar full of nutes bubbling away. The whole time i was looking at it i just thought "jeez man.. that doesnt drown the plant?" The proof was right there... he has some pretty far out hydro setups ... stuff that you cant buy.... and some configurations youd think would never work... but they are!


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## GypsyBush (Sep 6, 2008)

and the jar was clear...?


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## Incognitto (Sep 6, 2008)

Yep clear glass jar... just like an over size Mason Jar


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## GypsyBush (Sep 6, 2008)

Incognitto said:


> Yep clear glass jar... just like an over size Mason Jar


THAT is AMAZING!!!!

People say that you need complete dark for the roots to grow and stay healthy...

And you saw it all in a CLEAR jar...

Cool Man! 

Thanks for the reply...

Gypsy...


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## Emperor2008 (Sep 7, 2008)

Well lets not stop now with such great advice being given How about odors? I am looking at charcoal filters,ozone generators etc...for my flowering room..it is about 6ft.wide and 4 ft long...400 watt hps..800cfm squirrell cage vented outside..16" wall mount fan..any suggetions on odor control? What a great problem to have huh


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## potroast (Sep 8, 2008)

That's an easy one, Man. 

Just hold your nose.


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## concretebud (Sep 8, 2008)

when starting from seed, when do you start adding nutrients to the plant. becuase it sems like i fuch up bad.my babies been veg for 5 days and they seem to be a bit small. i added some nutrients earlier in the veg then i stop after reading ome article's . my babies leaves are a little yellow but mostly green. i just redirected back to just plan tap water, until there roots system is strong unuff, is it too late to save them from the earlier half strength nutrients i added ? my lights are 6in above my babies and i am using 125w florecent from hydrofarm. what am i doing wrong. i have 4x4 flood and drain ,using 1 inch rockwool cubes for my 5 day old yougins. help i need help.


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## WWgrower (Sep 8, 2008)

Hey Potroast, I was wondering what are your thoughts on continuous meters. The kind you leave in the res. to give continuous reading of the TDS, PH, temp. Iam getting some things for my next grow and have been thinking about these. I have RA and it would help to not have to wrestle around with getting readings everyday. Thanks in advance!


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## gvega187 (Sep 8, 2008)

I am starting a flood and drain setup. 

I have only 1 question:

how much root space do flood and drain plants need? I am using pebbles and starter plugs doing SOG.

Currently I have 25 small 2.75L buckets. Top Diameter is 6.5" and bottom is 5.5". WILL THIS WORK?!?!


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## lorenzo08 (Sep 8, 2008)

gvega187 said:


> how much root space do flood and drain plants need? I am using pebbles and starter plugs doing SOG.
> 
> Currently I have 25 small 2.75L buckets. Top Diameter is 6.5" and bottom is 5.5". WILL THIS WORK?!?!



I have something similar, and the same question. I'm using earth plugs at 4 weeks. roots should be over an inch long out of the plugs by now. would flood and drain get the plugs to wet?


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## gvega187 (Sep 8, 2008)

no, only flood up to the bottom of the plug. DO NOT let water level reach the plug. I believe this applies for RW AND rapid rooters. 

c'mon u guys we gotta all pitch in 2 cents while AL b. is trimming...LOL potroast put down that bowl and help me out.


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## lorenzo08 (Sep 8, 2008)

gvega187 said:


> no, only flood up to the bottom of the plug. DO NOT let water level reach the plug. I believe this applies for RW AND rapid rooters.



for real? the earth plugs I have are a good 2 inches tall. that only leaves about 1 or 2 inches of flood height in the bottom of the pots. is that only for a few weeks or for the life of the plant?


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## gvega187 (Sep 8, 2008)

give me the dimensions of your pot. i am currently trying to determine perfect container size also. Your size seems to be far to small. My rapid rooter plugs (probably similar) are 1.5 inches tall and may extend 1/2" above the pots when a dome of pebbles is mounded. 

It seems from my research so far that anything upwards of 3 liters is acceptable.


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## lorenzo08 (Sep 8, 2008)

gvega187 said:


> give me the dimensions of your pot. i am currently trying to determine perfect container size also. Your size seems to be far to small. My rapid rooter plugs (probably similar) are 1.5 inches tall and may extend 1/2" above the pots when a dome of pebbles is mounded.
> 
> It seems from my research so far that anything upwards of 3 liters is acceptable.



I think my pots are about 2 liters. they are gallon milk jugs cut down to about the height of the bottom of the handle. they are about 4 inches tall. works great for my pepper plants. they stayed pretty short and have been doing well. one pepper plant I didn't have a gallon jug for it at the time, so I put it in a half gallon jug cut the same way. that one's doing well too, but it did go root bound. are my pots big enough if I keep the plants small?


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## gvega187 (Sep 8, 2008)

yes if doing small SOG plants and flowering them immediately you should need around 3L it seems minimum. 

In flood and drain roots are allowed to come out of the bottom and get flooded also.

I recommend going to lowes and getting some larger containers that you can drill holes in.


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## lorenzo08 (Sep 8, 2008)

gvega187 said:


> I recommend going to lowes and getting some larger containers that you can drill holes in.


besides getting them from a grow shop, I haven't seen pots anywhere. they're out of season. I could always put the grow media right in the flood table. I've seen people do that. would give them plenty of room to grow, but makes cleaning harder.


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## gvega187 (Sep 8, 2008)

yes I have seen this method in pics also.

pros seem to be 

-no pots needed

cons

-many pebbles
-can not move plants to optimize lighting.
-plants roots will tangle & compete easier


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## potroast (Sep 8, 2008)

concretebud said:


> when starting from seed, when do you start adding nutrients to the plant. becuase it sems like i fuch up bad.my babies been veg for 5 days and they seem to be a bit small. i added some nutrients earlier in the veg then i stop after reading ome article's . my babies leaves are a little yellow but mostly green. i just redirected back to just plan tap water, until there roots system is strong unuff, is it too late to save them from the earlier half strength nutrients i added ? my lights are 6in above my babies and i am using 125w florecent from hydrofarm. what am i doing wrong. i have 4x4 flood and drain ,using 1 inch rockwool cubes for my 5 day old yougins. help i need help.


I always feed my hydro plants all of the time. The media they go into has been prepped with nutrients, and I continue to wet the medium with nutes.




WWgrower said:


> Hey Potroast, I was wondering what are your thoughts on continuous meters. The kind you leave in the res. to give continuous reading of the TDS, PH, temp. Iam getting some things for my next grow and have been thinking about these. I have RA and it would help to not have to wrestle around with getting readings everyday. Thanks in advance!


I heard those 'continuous meters' are called monitors. I have 1 combo monitor and 2 pH monitors. I prefer them to a portable meter because the electrode stays in calibration much better, and they use AC current, so no batteries to worry about and replace.




gvega187 said:


> I am starting a flood and drain setup.
> 
> I have only 1 question:
> 
> ...



That sounds like the size that I've used before. I bought square pots though, because they fit together better, with less space in between that must be filled with nutes.


HTH


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## gvega187 (Sep 14, 2008)

hey iam using some cheap pumps right now. will a 10 minute flood 4x a day work with pebbles?


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## potroast (Sep 16, 2008)

I would want to fill more quickly than that. Remember the roots are submerged during the drain time, too. But if your plants are healthy with it, it will be fine. 

This is from post 12:


potroast said:


> The type and timing of irrigation in a hydro system should be determined by the medium used. The denser the medium, the longer it will retain water. But that means less room for air in there. That's why dense media like rockwool and coir fiber are used, because of their good water retention, as well as the ability to maintain sufficient amounts of air even when wet.
> 
> For dense media, a drip system is best because of the water column that goes downward in a cone shape. Dripping into looser media like growrocks doesn't work as well because the water column is more like a straight-sided tube.
> 
> ...


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## lorenzo08 (Sep 16, 2008)

I wouldn't mind knowing some solid numbers on the subject. water weight loss before flooding, flood more often for veg or flowering, how long different types of media take to drain/dry..


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## william burdge (Sep 16, 2008)

system set up, whot is needed to start


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## william burdge (Sep 16, 2008)

system starter equiptment where to find or can doit from stuff frome around home?


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## potroast (Sep 17, 2008)

Here's an old tutorial about setting up a closet hydro operation:

https://www.rollitup.org/general-marijuana-growing/714-hydroponic-grow-operation-bedroom-closet.html


HTH


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## philemon (Sep 19, 2008)

Hi, I'm new here and I need to know something! I've been hydro for quite some time now and on my last crope I caut grey mold and lost everything:0( So now I'm starting new and sterilizing everything. I've been reading alot about it but was wondering what was "grow-medium"? I'm french so I do my best to understand everything! Is it what you grow in such as rockwool or grow-rock? Thank you very much for your time!


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## VictorVIcious (Sep 19, 2008)

Those are a couple of 'Growing Mediums', some other are soil, coco-coir, perlite, etc. and nothing at all but water. The 'medium' you use to grow in is termed, similar to the way television is considered a 'medium' to get information, or a bus could be your 'medium' for transportation. If you can give us some details of what you did we may be able to help. VV


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## lorenzo08 (Sep 19, 2008)

philemon said:


> Hi, I'm new here and I need to know something! I've been hydro for quite some time now and on my last crope I caut grey mold and lost everything:0( So now I'm starting new and sterilizing everything. I've been reading alot about it but was wondering what was "grow-medium"? I'm french so I do my best to understand everything! Is it what you grow in such as rockwool or grow-rock? Thank you very much for your time!


yes, you're exactly right. the grow-media is what you grow in. rock wool, perlite, stone, sand, air..

mold is always a bad thing.. wipe EVERYTHING down with a disinfectant. try to keep the humidity down in the room to avoid it coming back.


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## philemon (Sep 19, 2008)

Thanks everyone!


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## Roseman (Sep 19, 2008)

In my humble opinion, I think the majority of Hydro growers use Hydrton Rocks, surrounding a rockwool cube.
I use a 'side light" down low, trying to prevent MOLD, along with steralizing everything that I use, in between GROWS.


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## mobeets (Sep 19, 2008)

could someone like make a thread of he items you should get for a Hydroponic system and state the price


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## VictorVIcious (Sep 20, 2008)

mobeets said:


> could someone like make a thread of he items you should get for a Hydroponic system and state the price


Yes, if there were only one hydro system and one medium, can you narrow it down a little, what space you have, what you think your budget will be etc., which of the systems you are thinking of ?? VV


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## SRHSPADE420 (Sep 21, 2008)

how much does a new system cost?


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## twosaws (Sep 21, 2008)

hi i grow dwc and i am flushing with strate water befor i harvest is this nessasery and do i need to keep an eye on my ph level also what should the ph be thanks


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## potroast (Sep 22, 2008)

mobeets said:


> could someone like make a thread of he items you should get for a Hydroponic system and state the price





SRHSPADE420 said:


> how much does a new system cost?



Welcome to Rollitup, you guys. You'll probably find that not many members will answer a question that is so broad, or one that the answers are just a few posts away. Lots of guys ask how do I grow pot? or how much will it cost and how much bud will I get? Everyone just laughs knowingly and moves on.

My best advice to you is to look around and read a lot.

And have fun 

HTH


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## potroast (Sep 22, 2008)

twosaws said:


> hi i grow dwc and i am flushing with strate water befor i harvest is this nessasery and do i need to keep an eye on my ph level also what should the ph be thanks



Yes, depending on the nutrients that you are using, it's good to run plain water for at least several days before harvest. After 3-4 days you should notice a change in the plants foliage, lightening in color, telling you that the stored nutrients are being used up. If you are using an aggressive load of chemical nutrients, this will clear them from the plant tissue, and remove any nutrient taste from the bud and improve burnability.

HTH


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## twosaws (Sep 22, 2008)

thanks potroast what about the ph level


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## lorenzo08 (Sep 22, 2008)

twosaws said:


> thanks potroast what about the ph level


ph is very important in hydroponics. last night, I was adjusting the ph, I noticed signs from it getting to low, so I add ph up, a little to much. just 10 minutes later I already see signs from the ph being to high. I've heard of plants reacting that fast, but never saw it before until last night.

5.8 is usually the target. I've been using ph test drops for the past few months. it's a pain and isn't completely accurate. my next buy will be a digital tester. my last buy was a cheap digital ppm tester. once you get the hang of growing, a ppm tester is a huge help with tweaking. I can see exactly how much nutrient the plants are using up every day. I can almost see the plants growing too.

keep a close eye on ph. check it every day, and always check it after making any changes like adding water or nutrients.


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## twosaws (Sep 22, 2008)

thanks ya i did all that when i was feeding it with nutes but i was woundering about the ph when i am flushing to harvest


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## lorenzo08 (Sep 22, 2008)

twosaws said:


> thanks ya i did all that when i was feeding it with nutes but i was woundering about the ph when i am flushing to harvest


from what I've read, it's always a good idea to flush with fresh water for at least a few days to a week. some people even flush for 2 weeks. I would keep the ph the same, around 5.8, but now that I think of it, would having a higher or lower ph help with flushing? the plants wouldn't be able to absorb any nutes left behind if the ph was around 7. maybe start a new thread for that debate.


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## potroast (Sep 22, 2008)

I always adjust the pH to 5.8 of whatever I give them. That will keep the medium at that pH.

HTH


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## twosaws (Sep 23, 2008)

thanks again potroast. another question if you don't mind have you ever water cured if so how did it turn out, if not what do you think about it does it work i was thinking of doing it for personal smoke but i don't what to ruin it


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## potroast (Sep 24, 2008)

Naw, Man, I'm too old school for anything like soaking my bud in water. I've never even known anyone who tried it.


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## Anc777 (Sep 25, 2008)

twosaws said:


> hi potroast i saw Mr greens video he said he use's some kind of water that has co2 in it that he sprays is plants cents i dont have a co2 setup i would like to know what kind of water this is can you help"he called it bubbleing water"


its called sparkling water you gan get it a kroger


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## aluminutty (Sep 27, 2008)

hey great thread man. I just have 1 question I am somewhat a newbie in this but learn things very quick and have a lot of experience in marine aquatics and reef tanks and being a welder/fabricator by trade I have unlimited use of all bottled gases. From my research so far aerating your res heavily and keeping your temp at about 65 helps combat ph fluctuation. now my question to you is do you think it would benefit my roots by running pure o2 through my bubblers in the aero res combined with a co2 module? thanks.


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## VictorVIcious (Sep 27, 2008)

Up to a point it would, the temperature is more important than the additional oxygen. Temperatures below 70 will allow twice as much dissolved oxygen. If I had access, I might set up one on a timer, to put extra oxygen in just before flood cycle. CO2 should be released in the air right above the level of your plants and recirculated from the floor up, Until your next release. You will need controls for you exhaust system, etc. for optimum use of co2, estimates are 25% incease in production, does not need to be used until flowering begins. Temps can also runa little hotter when using the co2. VV


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## aluminutty (Sep 28, 2008)

thanks for the info g man.At this point in time I am taking my time setting up in a 40x8x8 trailer and planning on running an aerospring/bubbler system running constant circulating water through all root chambers with individual bubble bars in each tub aswell as 4 bubblers with bottled o2 pumped through my 90 gal res on a timer. I got a good deal on 10 cool tubes but after further research found out that cool tubes create hot spots so I fabricated a light mover for all 10 tubes. what are the best timed intervals for my 60 psi micro misters nutrient delivery? do you not run co2 for veg? thanks.


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## Smallsetup (Sep 30, 2008)

Hey Everyone, I still consider myself a noob for the simple fact I haven't found this thread till now. I'm on my second grow and ran into a problem with the Flora nova I was using. I don't know if it went bad or what. I had a problem with my plants dying and when I pulled them up The roots were Brownish red. I figured this was From the Hyroton, although I rinsed It very well. This Happened on a drip system. I ditched the drippers and made a DIY Aero setup inside a Rubbermaid 18 gallon tub and stuck some clones in there in 3 inch net pots with perlite instead of the Hydroton. I also have a DWC/Bubbleponics setup with some seedlings in another room under a T5. All was going well for the first few days untill i noticed the same Reddish brown "sludge" on the roots in the aero setup. I immediately flushed em and changed the res and Nutes. Two days later same thing, but this time one plant fell over and died. I noticed the same happening in the DWC. So i ditched the Nova and put in the three part flora, (which I hate). So I'm sorry for the long post, but i'm tired of spending money for nothing. I'm not sure if the Floranova went bad, but i mixed it up really well before it was added so I don't think it's my fault. Anyone recommend another nutrient besides the flora 3 part? Any suggestions would greatly help guys Thanks!


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## potroast (Sep 30, 2008)

aluminutty said:


> thanks for the info g man.At this point in time I am taking my time setting up in a 40x8x8 trailer and planning on running an aerospring/bubbler system running constant circulating water through all root chambers with individual bubble bars in each tub aswell as 4 bubblers with bottled o2 pumped through my 90 gal res on a timer. I got a good deal on 10 cool tubes but after further research found out that cool tubes create hot spots so I fabricated a light mover for all 10 tubes. what are the best timed intervals for my 60 psi micro misters nutrient delivery? do you not run co2 for veg? thanks.



That sounds good, and it sounds like an NFT system. With the soup constantly moving, it will be plenty aerated without any O2. And if you have air pumping into the res too, you'll be fine.

You can run CO2 during veg, too, it will speed growth, but most use it for flowering where it speeds flower development.

Sprayers of root systems usually run 24/7.

HTH


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## potroast (Sep 30, 2008)

Smallsetup said:


> Hey Everyone, I still consider myself a noob for the simple fact I haven't found this thread till now. I'm on my second grow and ran into a problem with the Flora nova I was using. I don't know if it went bad or what. I had a problem with my plants dying and when I pulled them up The roots were Brownish red. I figured this was From the Hyroton, although I rinsed It very well. This Happened on a drip system. I ditched the drippers and made a DIY Aero setup inside a Rubbermaid 18 gallon tub and stuck some clones in there in 3 inch net pots with perlite instead of the Hydroton. I also have a DWC/Bubbleponics setup with some seedlings in another room under a T5. All was going well for the first few days untill i noticed the same Reddish brown "sludge" on the roots in the aero setup. I immediately flushed em and changed the res and Nutes. Two days later same thing, but this time one plant fell over and died. I noticed the same happening in the DWC. So i ditched the Nova and put in the three part flora, (which I hate). So I'm sorry for the long post, but i'm tired of spending money for nothing. I'm not sure if the Floranova went bad, but i mixed it up really well before it was added so I don't think it's my fault. Anyone recommend another nutrient besides the flora 3 part? Any suggestions would greatly help guys Thanks!


I use FloraNova too and haven't had any problems. It's the best of the pseudo-organic hydro nutes that I've tried. The Flora 3-part series will work fine, too. I would say the problem is too hot a soup. Do you have to blow on it some before feeding your plants? 

If your res is below 75, then check your aeration. Something is wrong with the DO levels of your soup. (dissolved oxygen)

HTH


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## Smallsetup (Oct 1, 2008)

My res temp in the dwc is around 80 degrees, The little aero is about 88. I guess because of the pump.. So I guess that's my problem?? What should the temps be??


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## GypsyBush (Oct 1, 2008)

Too warm... I think...

I keep my res. around 58F to 60F...

I have heard that 70F is the magic temp for root growth, but also for pathogen reproduction.... 

My ladies seem to be doing fine with the low temps in the res... and I keep the air around 68F to 72F...

Hope this helps... 

Gypsy...


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## potroast (Oct 2, 2008)

Smallsetup said:


> My res temp in the dwc is around 80 degrees, The little aero is about 88. I guess because of the pump.. So I guess that's my problem?? What should the temps be??



Yes, that's the problem. You've got nasty fungi growing in your soup, and there is not enough DO for your plants to thrive. Is the air temp high also? Res temp should be below 75, sixty-something is better.

Fix that and your plants will flourish.

HTH


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## Smallsetup (Oct 2, 2008)

My air temp is at 70, My wife was born on the sun so she's frozen solid at 70 if you know what I mean.. I double checked the DWC and it's at 79, but I have plenty of air going into it (4 airstones). Guess I gotta figure something out. I also am using Hygrozyme in there (i think I forgot to mention that). Would this be contributing to the problem also? Just curious because I didn't have this problem with my first grow under the same conditions..


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## Smallsetup (Oct 2, 2008)

I've gotten mixed answers on this... My water starts out at 250 PPM. If I wanted to feed at 500, would I adjust to 750??


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## potroast (Oct 2, 2008)

Smallsetup said:


> My air temp is at 70, My wife was born on the sun so she's frozen solid at 70 if you know what I mean.. I double checked the DWC and it's at 79, but I have plenty of air going into it (4 airstones). Guess I gotta figure something out. I also am using Hygrozyme in there (i think I forgot to mention that). Would this be contributing to the problem also? Just curious because I didn't have this problem with my first grow under the same conditions..


Even with 4 airstones making copious amounts of bubbles, and the surface is churning like in A Perfect Storm, the soup can't hold the oxygen at that temp. The enzymes may be helping but obviously not enough.



Smallsetup said:


> I've gotten mixed answers on this... My water starts out at 250 PPM. If I wanted to feed at 500, would I adjust to 750??


Yes, add your nute requirements to your base water ppm.

HTH


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## Smallsetup (Oct 3, 2008)

Thanks for the help Potroast, + Rep to you!


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## Bifta (Oct 3, 2008)

have you tried hydorogen peroxide in your d/w/c ?


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## lorenzo08 (Oct 3, 2008)

Smallsetup said:


> My air temp is at 70, My wife was born on the sun so she's frozen solid at 70 if you know what I mean.. I double checked the DWC and it's at 79, but I have plenty of air going into it (4 airstones). Guess I gotta figure something out. I also am using Hygrozyme in there (i think I forgot to mention that). Would this be contributing to the problem also? Just curious because I didn't have this problem with my first grow under the same conditions..


that res temp seems really high for what the ambient room temp is. how is it getting so warm? do you have a circulation pump in it or have another set of lights directly under it? what is bringing up the temp so much?


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## Smallsetup (Oct 4, 2008)

lorenzo08 said:


> that res temp seems really high for what the ambient room temp is. how is it getting so warm? do you have a circulation pump in it or have another set of lights directly under it? what is bringing up the temp so much?


Could be the fact that my res lid is black?? I was considering painting it flat white.. Think it would help?


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## Smallsetup (Oct 4, 2008)

Bifta said:


> have you tried hydorogen peroxide in your d/w/c ?


No I havent.. I might just try that. How do I go about it??


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## potroast (Oct 4, 2008)

I wouldn't suggest H2O2 when using enzymes, and other organic nutrients. You'll kill them all, and their tiny screams will haunt you.

HTH


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## GypsyBush (Oct 4, 2008)

Hey Potroast!

The only nutrients I have used on my current Aerogarden grow is a product called NSR GREENLEAVES BLOOM JUICE..

do you know it...?

do you know if it is organic...?

if it is not, than it would be compatible with H2O2, right?

My plants seem healthy with just this, but I was under the impression that it was just a supplement... any comments..?

Thanks...

Gypsy...


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## potroast (Oct 4, 2008)

No, I've never heard of it, but it appears to be a 1-part Bloom nutrient. If it doesn't say anything about organics on the label, it's probably chemical, and would be fine to use with H2O2.

HTH


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## Smallsetup (Oct 4, 2008)

Well I went out and got some Sensi grow A and B.. I'm gonna switch out tomorrow and leave the Hygrozyme out and just Put some superthrive in there and this other stuff i'm using to produce branching.. No one on here has heard of it, i'll put a picture up for you..  The products are called Bloom by a company called Agricultural Organics.


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## alg007 (Oct 6, 2008)

ec meters r expensive whats the deal hand held portable devices so i can use it every were i use it bloom room veg room or the room i use for h2o and mixing nutrients or a unit thats fixed always reading ph ec and temp


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## potroast (Oct 7, 2008)

Most hydro growers that use meters for EC/TDS or pH, use the portable, battery-operated meters. They work fine as long as you take good care of them, keep them clean and calibrate often, and supply them with good batteries, and store them properly. I prefer a Monitor that has an AC/DC plug-in base unit that hangs on the wall, and separate replaceable pH electrode and EC electrode.

HTH


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## growinman (Oct 8, 2008)

Hey *potroast*, on a flood/drain table, could you tell me roughly what are acceptable times it takes to fill vs drain? I have a 2x3' that I fill about 5" deep and it takes around 2-3 mins to fill but about 7-10 mins to drain and repeat at 12 mins on cycle timer. Is that okay, or am I keeping the root submerged too long?? It's kind of just an experiment table I am going to veg some clones in, but I am thinking I may need a bigger pump and more height? I am using hydroton in baskets if that matters.........

Thank you in advance for all of your awesome help!!

growinman


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## potroast (Oct 9, 2008)

That's sounds like a good time for filling, but a little too long to drain, but it will work as long as your res is sufficiently aerated. I don't think you need to flood so often though, every 2-4 hours is the norm, depending on temps.

HTH


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## mannyleec (Oct 9, 2008)

i bought sensi grow part a & b advanced nutrients not very high on n-p-k, i was wondering if this is all i need for growing stage or could i add more a=3.7-0-0 b=2.5-2.2-5.7, should i add a high nitrogen solution or is this all i need. ty


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## growinman (Oct 9, 2008)

potroast said:


> That's sounds like a good time for filling, but a little too long to drain, but it will work as long as your res is sufficiently aerated. I don't think you need to flood so often though, every 2-4 hours is the norm, depending on temps.
> 
> HTH


Thank you, Sir!
It only is draining back through the pump so I am going to try and figure another way as well(I thought that may be taking too long) and I will go put a big air stone in the res right now.

growinman


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## potroast (Oct 9, 2008)

mannyleec said:


> i bought sensi grow part a & b advanced nutrients not very high on n-p-k, i was wondering if this is all i need for growing stage or could i add more a=3.7-0-0 b=2.5-2.2-5.7, should i add a high nitrogen solution or is this all i need. ty



Check with the AN website, they have a feeding schedule that will drive you straight to the poorhouse. If you ask them, you need about a dozen expensive products.

HTH


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## lorenzo08 (Oct 9, 2008)

growinman said:


> Hey *potroast*, on a flood/drain table, could you tell me roughly what are acceptable times it takes to fill vs drain? I have a 2x3' that I fill about 5" deep and it takes around 2-3 mins to fill but about 7-10 mins to drain and repeat at 12 mins on cycle timer. Is that okay, or am I keeping the root submerged too long?? It's kind of just an experiment table I am going to veg some clones in, but I am thinking I may need a bigger pump and more height? I am using hydroton in baskets if that matters.........


the draining time shouldn't hurt it any. I can't think of anything off the top of my head that would help drain it faster. maybe just raise the table above the res a little higher. mine takes about 2 1/2 minutes to fill to 3 or 4 inches, then 3 minutes to drain purely by syphon. you should flood anywhere between once an hour to once every 6 hours. depends on the media you're growing in, how fast it drains and dries out, and your personal preference. I flood fish tank stone once every 1 1/2 hours, that's what works best for me.


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## brookstown (Oct 9, 2008)

when growing in expanded clay, how often do you irrigate. I run the pump 12 hours, it works pretty good just wanted to hear other ideas.


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## potroast (Oct 10, 2008)

Uhmmm, 5 posts back will answer your question ...


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## helmoid (Oct 12, 2008)

shit well theres 47 pages so my apologies if this has been asked or if your not sure, but could you point me in the direction of some good info on using DWC for growing?


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## dragonfly2dreams (Oct 12, 2008)

potroast said:


> All right! Hydroponics is what I know, and hydroponics is the way I grow!
> 
> This forum will be great, we can discuss anything hydro. No dirtbags here, We haul water!
> 
> ...


well good, lol, , i am so new to hydro , i need to know what nutrients to add into the water, right now i am using 20-20-20- , getting ready to change water on tuesday, do i keep the same mixture, and also do i change hours of lighting..I HAVE A POST and pics of my plants, but somehow i am getting mix messages


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## Eharmony420 (Oct 12, 2008)

i got a hydro question. i am now flooding every hour for 15 minutes to prevent what has been happeneing. every time, well the 2 times i have since i got this new system, my plants have been slumped over lookin dead. then as i flood at light on they perk right back up. their leaves are crispy. so i flooded every hour then. previulsoy at every 2 hours then none in dark cycle. now every hour even in dark cyccle. it is tire muklch media which i heard would work. the mullch is still wet after 2 hours. i dont know what the problems spcicfics are. shoud i go every 2 hours thru the light then like every 3 hours at night? i just began ebb and flo and need advice or an explanation, please ty


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## GypsyBush (Oct 12, 2008)

Hi Potroast...

I am building a grow tent for my next grow... 

Could you swing by the build and give your opinion?

I have a few options on which fan to go where and I am just not sure...

Page 21 is where it starts... https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/101376-mini-aeroponic-garden-21.html

Thanks...

Gypsy...


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## potroast (Oct 13, 2008)

helmoid said:


> shit well theres 47 pages so my apologies if this has been asked or if your not sure, but could you point me in the direction of some good info on using DWC for growing?


Sure, Man. Just look through the threads in this forum, and the Indoor Growing forum, and read the ones that have DWC in the title. 




dragonfly2dreams said:


> well good, lol, , i am so new to hydro , i need to know what nutrients to add into the water, right now i am using 20-20-20- , getting ready to change water on tuesday, do i keep the same mixture, and also do i change hours of lighting..I HAVE A POST and pics of my plants, but somehow i am getting mix messages


First of all, use nutes made for hydro. Yes, change the res and mix the same amount of nutrients. Change the lighting when you want to induce flowering. Unscrambling the mixed messages is up to you. 



Eharmony420 said:


> i got a hydro question. i am now flooding every hour for 15 minutes to prevent what has been happeneing. every time, well the 2 times i have since i got this new system, my plants have been slumped over lookin dead. then as i flood at light on they perk right back up. their leaves are crispy. so i flooded every hour then. previulsoy at every 2 hours then none in dark cycle. now every hour even in dark cyccle. it is tire muklch media which i heard would work. the mullch is still wet after 2 hours. i dont know what the problems spcicfics are. shoud i go every 2 hours thru the light then like every 3 hours at night? i just began ebb and flo and need advice or an explanation, please ty


Your medium is probably too wet, and you should not flood during the dark. Is there any air in the tires? Your roots need fresh air regularly. Pump up the tires to 32 psi and avoid road hazards.

HTH


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## lorenzo08 (Oct 13, 2008)

Eharmony420 said:


> i got a hydro question. i am now flooding every hour for 15 minutes to prevent what has been happeneing. every time, well the 2 times i have since i got this new system, my plants have been slumped over lookin dead. then as i flood at light on they perk right back up. their leaves are crispy. so i flooded every hour then. previulsoy at every 2 hours then none in dark cycle. now every hour even in dark cyccle. it is tire muklch media which i heard would work. the mullch is still wet after 2 hours. i dont know what the problems spcicfics are. shoud i go every 2 hours thru the light then like every 3 hours at night? i just began ebb and flo and need advice or an explanation, please ty


this site says something about a problem with tire mulch. I wouldn't use it myself. to many chemicals in it. I use fish tank stone. completely inert. it has to be clean when it leaves the factory, or people would have dead fish.
Paghat's Garden: Deadly Rubber Mulch




potroast said:


> Your medium is probably too wet, and you should not flood during the dark. Is there any air in the tires? Your roots need fresh air regularly. Pump up the tires to 32 psi and avoid road hazards.


haha.. my dad would say put tire in your air.


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## lorenzo08 (Oct 13, 2008)

zinc... that reminds me.. I think palmerton pa has a problem with zink. it's one of the top 5 worst disaster areas in the country. zink mines killed off every plant and tree in the area. at one time they started using the leftovers from the mines for road cinders in the winter. they stopped when people started getting cancer. this is an extreme case. I doubt you'd get cancer from smoking plants grown in tires. lol


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## 1sexytomboy (Oct 17, 2008)

I purchased the the Aeroflo2 20 - 20 Site Aeroponics System. I need to know how much lighting and which lighting is best for this system. I also need advice as to which EC/TDS/Meter to use. I would like to know the least expensive for the both of these items.

 1sexytomboy 





potroast said:


> All right! Hydroponics is what I know, and hydroponics is the way I grow!
> 
> This forum will be great, we can discuss anything hydro. No dirtbags here, We haul water!
> 
> ...


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## VictorVIcious (Oct 17, 2008)

1sexytomboy said:


> I purchased the the Aeroflo2 20 - 20 Site Aeroponics System. I need to know how much lighting and which lighting is best for this system. I also need advice as to which EC/TDS/Meter to use. I would like to know the least expensive for the both of these items.
> 
> 1sexytomboy


I can't say I blame you, that unit is really an odd size for a hydro grow. Your unit will be 1' wide and 6' long, can't say many lights fit that pattern. Maybe look at FilthyFletches aero grow thread for some advice on that one, he posted a build for it. I recommend spending as mush as you can afford when it comes to meters and lights. VV


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## Eharmony420 (Oct 17, 2008)

hey guys just to let you know, is still got the tire mulch media ebb and flo going. I kept watering without checking this site and lucky enough it seems the plants needed more water. i guess, lol. They are trucking. Every hour for 15 minutes and i saw awesome gorwth. I also noticed that with an airstone in each ebb pot the growth was noticable. I might be able to lower the night feeds fown but i dont want to risk it.


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## potroast (Oct 18, 2008)

1sexytomboy said:


> I purchased the the Aeroflo2 20 - 20 Site Aeroponics System. I need to know how much lighting and which lighting is best for this system. I also need advice as to which EC/TDS/Meter to use. I would like to know the least expensive for the both of these items.
> 
> 1sexytomboy



With a 6 foot length, you'll need 2 lamps over them, so I would go with 400s. I've used the AeroFlo but only with the staggered tubes, with them that close together, your plants will be crowded, so you'll have to plan for that.

Welcome to Rollitup! 

HTH


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## tintala (Oct 19, 2008)

HardTimez said:


> I dont think anybody should BUY a hydroponics system, there is one big thing about growing is to keep it one the LOW  now why would you go an buy a system, maybe the cops keep an eye on that place...or maybe he keeps a list ? even if you pay with cash...do you think he has a pen handy to write down your plate number? hmm i love the hardware store, plus you look prof. buying there too  the ladies like a man who is a proffesional  just build your own stuff if u smoke weed you have an imagination


watch Barry coopers DVDS>

NEVER GET RAIDED! on nevergetbustedagain.com
if you live in a shit state then you need to worry.


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## GypsyBush (Oct 19, 2008)

Hey potroast...

This is an early pick from my first hydro grow...

It's the only bud I picked, and one of 4 in that plant... which is 4" tall by 12" wide.. yes, the miniatures.... there are 3 more plants about the same size as well...

I started flushing with plain water today, and will until... they are done... week 8 starts tomorrow... so I am pretty close... trichs are milky, just starting to turn...

I would love to hear you thoughts...

Thanks...

Gypsy...


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## potroast (Oct 19, 2008)

Gypsy, it appears that those buds have a ways to go. They are looking nice, but still need to ripen. If you are on Day 55, I'd say 2 more weeks minimum. Watch for the calyxes to swell, and the trikes will start to glisten.

HTH


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## GypsyBush (Oct 19, 2008)

potroast said:


> Gypsy, it appears that those buds have a ways to go. They are looking nice, but still need to ripen. If you are on Day 55, I'd say 2 more weeks minimum. Watch for the calyxes to swell, and the trikes will start to glisten.
> 
> HTH


Thanks man...

I figured I clip one... dry it for a week and cure for 10 to 14 days and smoke that as I harvest the rest...

Thanks for the advice...

I'll check back with you after a few weeks...

Gypsy...


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## davzz1st (Oct 26, 2008)

I have a Question...My tray is a 4x4 with Grogan 6x6 cubes... Im pumping up water 4 times a day... twice with the lights on... and twice while its Dark... is that ok? watering in the dark cycle


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## VictorVIcious (Oct 26, 2008)

davzz1st said:


> I have a Question...My tray is a 4x4 with Grogan 6x6 cubes... Im pumping up water 4 times a day... twice with the lights on... and twice while its Dark... is that ok? watering in the dark cycle


 
No that is not a good watering cycle for rockwool blocks imo, never need water lights off. VV


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## mightyboogie (Oct 26, 2008)

hallo guys.
i start growing my mother plants on a tray in rockwoll under flourescent.i m using GH ferts.my reservoire is 10 liters for 5 plants.one week ago i placed the rockwool cubes in pots filled with claypebbles.than my ph and my ec started to grow.before transplanting in claypebbles everything was stabile(ph 5.8/ec 1.2)
i adjust the ph daily...is this ok?do i harm the roots if i add ph down daily?
is my reservoire too small???
i might not washed the claybebbles too well?is this the cause of my fluctuations?
what should i do?


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## davzz1st (Oct 26, 2008)

Hey Potroast..is it ok to flood my tray while the light are off in flower cycle? or should i only be flooding my Grogan 6x6 cubes while the lights are on?


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## davzz1st (Oct 26, 2008)

Thanks VV... so I should only have my timer pump water in to my tray while the lights are on? How many times a day would you suggest?


4x4x7 Grow Hut
4x4 tray with ebb flow pump setup 
6x6 Grogan cubes
1000 watt lux Hps
30 gallon Res.
Botanicare Nutes
450 Cfm Exhaust fan
sunsystems 6 air flow hood


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## potroast (Oct 27, 2008)

davzz1st said:


> Hey Potroast..is it ok to flood my tray while the light are off in flower cycle? or should i only be flooding my Grogan 6x6 cubes while the lights are on?


You could have listened to Victor, he may be vicious or he just might be a puppy dog. He's right, watering at night is not necessary, and may even be bad. And I would say that you only need to water a 6-inch cube once a day, or every other day.

HTH


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## potroast (Oct 27, 2008)

mightyboogie said:


> hallo guys.
> i start growing my mother plants on a tray in rockwoll under flourescent.i m using GH ferts.my reservoire is 10 liters for 5 plants.one week ago i placed the rockwool cubes in pots filled with claypebbles.than my ph and my ec started to grow.before transplanting in claypebbles everything was stabile(ph 5.8/ec 1.2)
> i adjust the ph daily...is this ok?do i harm the roots if i add ph down daily?
> is my reservoire too small???
> ...


Yes, your reservoir is too small, it would be better at twice the size. But a small res just means that you must maintain it daily. Are you topping off with plain water daily? What kind of pH Down are you using? The pH will move up or down depending on several things. It's best not to make a lot of adjustments, and as you get to know your water and nutes, you can let the pH move and only adjust it when it goes out of range.

HTH


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## mightyboogie (Oct 27, 2008)

yes i top it with fresh water daily and i change it completly at 4-5 days.i ll change my reservoire tomorow with a biger one...i m using bio nova ph adjusters.my ph/ec is only going up.today i v seen some brown tips...this means too much ferts or roots sress because of the ph...my ec grew in one day from 2.1 to 2.4.my plants are 5 weeks old.
the problem is my tap water has an ec of 6.6.after adding ferts i have an ec of 2.1(this means 1.5 wich is aprox 750 ppm) i use milwakee ec meter.
but this problems came up after i put the plants in clay pebbels.my ec and ph are growing due to this or it can be more factors?
tnx


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## ROCafellaheads (Oct 28, 2008)

Hey guys I just picked up an aerogarden pro 100 to fuck around with as my other garden is dirt, sorry to say. Do I have to germinate before planting in the aero garden? And also, what light schedule should I start them at?

Thanks to all and to all a good light.


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## potroast (Oct 29, 2008)

I don't know anything about the AG, I haven't even seen the infomercial. Have you read any of the threads here about the AG? I would start with the stickied thread called "The Aerogarden." 

HTH


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## ROCafellaheads (Oct 29, 2008)

yeah I did but sometimes it's hard to read all of the posts to really understand whats going on. Thats why I decided to see if anyone on this thread knew anything about it.


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## corral hollow kid (Oct 29, 2008)

Did U get it a Costco? I saw em there last week. I looked at it, but it would appear to me (no expert or anything) that the light sux and will not produce tight nugs.

.02


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## ROCafellaheads (Oct 29, 2008)

Yeah thats what I figured but I got it for free and it's just a toy on the side from my soil garden.


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## GypsyBush (Oct 29, 2008)

you could check my thread...

*Mini Aeroponic Garden *

here are a few shots of what I got....

Buds with roots... lol... pretty fun grow actually, taught me a lot...

But I have upgraded...

Cheers...


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## techgrower (Oct 29, 2008)

I bought a 56x56x78.5" tent, 450w hps light and mh conversion bulb, vortec fan 8" big ass carbon filter, hydroton, air pumps, nutes, vents, flexiable and solid vent tubing, on craigslist for 300$. You can definitly find stuff around and just make your first grow tomatoes if your worried you were reported or something. Its not illegal to grow veggies just trees. Definitly check craigslist in your area. Might find someone moving looking to dump cheep!!!


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## GypsyBush (Oct 29, 2008)

Hey Potroast...

I got a Hanna Grocheck pH & TDS/EC monitor... just like the one on the photo...








I have a pH probe, a TDS probe and a Ground probe... the 4th wire is the power...

When I am calibrating, what do I need to do with the ground probe?

Does it need to be in the calibrating solution with the probes? Both pH and TDS?

Thanks for your help... 

Gypsy...


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## potroast (Oct 30, 2008)

Yeah, Man! That's the same monitor that I have. I think the grounding probe is used with the pH electrode, so I use them together in the 4 & 7 calibration solution. I don't use any special cleaner for the pH electrode, I just soak it in isopropyl for 20 minutes before calibrating.

You're gonna love that thing. 

HTH


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## GypsyBush (Oct 30, 2008)

potroast said:


> Yeah, Man! That's the same monitor that I have. I think the grounding probe is used with the pH electrode, so I use them together in the 4 & 7 calibration solution. I don't use any special cleaner for the pH electrode, I just soak it in isopropyl for 20 minutes before calibrating.
> 
> You're gonna love that thing.
> 
> HTH


Cool man.. 

Thanks a bunch...


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## ROCafellaheads (Oct 30, 2008)

How much are those meter's I am just to lazy to search the web. This website is the reason why I go online.


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## GypsyBush (Oct 31, 2008)

ROCafellaheads said:


> How much are those meter's I am just to lazy to search the web. This website is the reason why I go online.


Well, I did some *heavy* searching and I found it... lol...

Here you go man...

HANNA GroCheck Combo Meter HI 981404N

Good Luck...

Gypsy...


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## potroast (Oct 31, 2008)

Thanks for the link. All I can say is Wow! The price is $118, and when I bought mine they were $200.


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## ROCafellaheads (Nov 1, 2008)

thanks for the link man


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## growinman (Nov 3, 2008)

........yes, that looks to be an excellent score there, considering I have about $150 in a milwaukee ph51 pen thing and thier ppm meter too..

Hey *potroast*, in your opinion, will I create major stress in my girls if I veg them in 3" net pots for a week or so(until the roots show out of the net) in a Rubbermaid DWC bubbler and then go into my AreoFlo20?? Do you think the roots would be too fragile? I am hoping to go from my dwc cloner into hydroton filled 3" net baskets into another dwc(making it tonight), then to the areoflo. The reason I cant just run them straight to the areoflo is that it's committed to my 12/12 room......
Do you forsee any problems I may be looking at??

As always, thank you very much for all of your help!!

growinman


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## potroast (Nov 4, 2008)

I see no problems with your dwc to aero plan. It's best to veg the plant in the container that they will finish in, with as little disturbance as possible. But once roots come out of the netpots, they are wet and pliable, and can be handled easily even if long.

HTH


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## GypsyBush (Nov 4, 2008)

Hi Potroast... Hope all is well in your world...

I apologize for the copy and paste, but I thought I'd share...

The following is one of the main reasons why I am so happy with hydro...

Thank you for all your help... I have read a lot of your posts...

Anyways, here is the saga of the 2" clone, taken 2 weeks into flowering...

Cheers...



GypsyBush said:


> *So I figured this would be a good time for another comparison... lol...
> 
> The first picture was taken on 09/06/08...
> *
> ...


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## sllik (Nov 4, 2008)

Hi people im experimenting some problems with my first grow
and no one seems to have the right awnser 

my girls are 2 months old im suppose to start flowering but 
something happened to them.

i woke up one day and found that all the new leafs turned yellow
only the new leafs 

the yellow is comming from the inside

*Themp*: 78
*Rh*: 43%
*Ph*: 5.8 Ph
*Nutes*: im using 
Liquid Karma and 
Pure Blend PRO BLOOM

i have been reading alot and i found this

_Sulfer: plants suffering from Sulfer definciencies _
_exhibit yellowing of new growth._



i started them from seeds and its my first grow 
so i have alot of love for them 

Help Riu !!!


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## stickyicky77 (Nov 4, 2008)

Hey Potroast. Can you give me an idea of how i can automatically top off my rez while i go on vacation to Jamacia for 7 days ? I do not have anyone i can trust to do it for me. I thought about setting up another rez on a higher shelf with a siphon hose but i am not sure how to controll the water so it doesn't over flow the rez.


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## raveraverave (Nov 4, 2008)

hey man i gott a couple questions about, DWC i have read up on it but still i cant seem to find an answer to my question, i figure instead of buying that DWC system from Stealth hydro i would build me own, so i got ever thing i need, the net pods,the pump, the bubble stones, i'm just curious if the net pods are submergerged underneath any water? i havent been able to get a clear explanation, if you could help thanks


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## potroast (Nov 5, 2008)

sllik said:


> Hi people im experimenting some problems with my first grow
> and no one seems to have the right awnser
> 
> my girls are 2 months old im suppose to start flowering but
> something happened to them.


It looks like a Nitrogen deficiency, and you are using Bloom nutes while still in veg growth. Bloom nutes have much less Nitrogen, so switch to PBP Grow.




stickyicky77 said:


> Hey Potroast. Can you give me an idea of how i can automatically top off my rez while i go on vacation to Jamacia for 7 days ? I do not have anyone i can trust to do it for me. I thought about setting up another rez on a higher shelf with a siphon hose but i am not sure how to controll the water so it doesn't over flow the rez.


With a second res filled with top-off water, you'll need a float valve in the main res, connected to the switch that controls the pump.




raveraverave said:


> hey man i gott a couple questions about, DWC i have read up on it but still i cant seem to find an answer to my question, i figure instead of buying that DWC system from Stealth hydro i would build me own, so i got ever thing i need, the net pods,the pump, the bubble stones, i'm just curious if the net pods are submergerged underneath any water? i havent been able to get a clear explanation, if you could help thanks


No, the netpot is not submerged. You may find some good info in our Do-It-Yourself Tutorial Forum.

HTH


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## GypsyBush (Nov 5, 2008)

stickyicky77 said:


> Hey Potroast. Can you give me an idea of how i can automatically top off my rez while i go on vacation to Jamacia for 7 days ? I do not have anyone i can trust to do it for me. I thought about setting up another rez on a higher shelf with a siphon hose but i am not sure how to controll the water so it doesn't over flow the rez.


Would something like this work for you? maybe a diff. size depending on your res size...?!

Full instructions on my sig...

Good Luck and have Fun...!!!


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## stickyicky77 (Nov 5, 2008)

GypsyBush said:


> Would something like this work for you? maybe a diff. size depending on your res size...?!
> 
> Full instructions on my sig...
> 
> Good Luck and have Fun...!!!


Thanks, that is exactly what i was thinking of.


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## GypsyBush (Nov 5, 2008)

stickyicky77 said:


> Thanks, that is exactly what i was thinking of.


I cannot take any credit for it.. it was a copy and paste....

But I am glad it may help you...

Cheers..

Gypsy...


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## greentee08 (Nov 6, 2008)

potroast said:


> All right! Hydroponics is what I know, and hydroponics is the way I grow!
> 
> This forum will be great, we can discuss anything hydro. No dirtbags here, We haul water!
> 
> ...


wat up shauty how u make dro grow


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## potroast (Nov 7, 2008)

greentee08 said:


> wat up shauty how u make dro grow


Sheeet, itz EZ, jest find an old grower...


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## VictorVIcious (Nov 7, 2008)

lmfao, +rep for ya potroast, I know you meant it in a nice way. VV


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## sllik (Nov 8, 2008)

1st day of flowering 1000 ppm is ok ?


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## potroast (Nov 9, 2008)

Well, just feeding them 1000ppm is OK in some cases, but not all. If you are supplying your plants with good light, at least 40w/sqft of HID, and sufficient fresh air, then it will probably be OK. It's best to watch your plants and they will let you know if it's OK.

HTH


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## sllik (Nov 9, 2008)

potroast said:


> Well, just feeding them 1000ppm is OK in some cases, but not all. If you are supplying your plants with good light, at least 40w/sqft of HID, and sufficient fresh air, then it will probably be OK. It's best to watch your plants and they will let you know if it's OK.
> 
> HTH


 
Thank you very much + Rep


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## HappelWood (Nov 9, 2008)

I'm growing using FF tiger bloom and i just started big bloom. My went into flowering two weeks ago, one 3. I'm using Distilled water. I was wondering if there is an inherent deficiency in my combination of tigerbloom+big bloom+0ppm water. I only just started using big bloom...3 days ago too.

I'm being told i have a mag deficiency and am treating it as such cause i just really don't think it's nute burn and my ph is always around 6.1-6.3 and my temps never break 82. I'm being told to drop my ph to 5.8, which i'm doing. I flushed my tank, then filled it with 150ppms of epsom salt, then big bloom and tiger boom to 450ppms, to wait and see how that plant reacts. I don't see damage spreading...it might be recovering...i'm foilar feeding it espom water too.


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## drbomber (Nov 11, 2008)

do u add fert to reservoir as soon as u stick seedlings into rockwool? just started placed seedlings in rockwool and so on. added water and added nuts. now im about to change the water and needed to know if what i did was right or not. 

also noticed some alge white crap growing on my rocks. do i clean that up with h202 to reservoir?


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## potroast (Nov 12, 2008)

My rockwool is initially soaked in mild nute solution, pH low 5's, and then drenched in mild nute solution pH 5.8, and then used for cuttings, and the rockwool is regularly soaked in nute solution.

For any nasties in your res, H2O2 will clean it up. If you use the 35%, add it to your res at 6ml/gallon, and re-add that amount every 3rd day. This will also kill any good critters in there.

HTH


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## brathawitlocs (Nov 12, 2008)

Do I use hydrogen peroxide to flush and if so how much do I use per gallon?


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## VictorVIcious (Nov 12, 2008)

brathawitlocs said:


> Do I use hydrogen peroxide to flush and if so how much do I use per gallon?


Not really, most that use it are controlling pathogens in the tank. the h202 breaks down to h2o and o, it adds a little oxygen in the process. Potroast just posted the dilution ratio and time for using it. Its not that involved in flushing, it breaks down as it sanitizes. For flushing you should use a 1/4 strength nute solution at two times the watering capacity of you pot. If your using hydro, remove some of your solution from your tanks and add water to dilute it to 1/4 strength, then ph the water, run the system. VV


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## madmoney42 (Nov 12, 2008)

Hey whats up guys, I'm planning on starting a DWC scrog grow and this will be my first attempt at hydro and so of course I have a few noob questions I hope you all can help me out with.... 

First off, PPM, I know what it stands for but what are we actually measuring and what range are we looking to keep that in??

In regards to changing out your nutrient solution, I'll be using a rubbermaid tub bubbler with 5 or 6 plants in it, how often should I change out the nutrient solution or is it possible to not change it out and just top off as needed?? Would it be feasible to hook the tubs up to a reservoir that is placed higher off the ground than the tubs with a line coming in at about the watter level in order to passively refill the nutrient solution as it gets used??

I know what EC means but why is it important and what range are we looking to keep it in...

Lastly, any recommendations on strains from nirvana seeds or dr chronic seeds that have really good branching characterisitics??

Thanks in advance.


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## stickyicky77 (Nov 12, 2008)

HappelWood said:


> I'm growing using FF tiger bloom and i just started big bloom. My went into flowering two weeks ago, one 3. I'm using Distilled water. I was wondering if there is an inherent deficiency in my combination of tigerbloom+big bloom+0ppm water. I only just started using big bloom...3 days ago too.
> 
> I'm being told i have a mag deficiency and am treating it as such cause i just really don't think it's nute burn and my ph is always around 6.1-6.3 and my temps never break 82. I'm being told to drop my ph to 5.8, which i'm doing. I flushed my tank, then filled it with 150ppms of epsom salt, then big bloom and tiger boom to 450ppms, to wait and see how that plant reacts. I don't see damage spreading...it might be recovering...i'm foilar feeding it espom water too.


I use Foxfarm and this is the feeding schedule you should be using http://www.foxfarmfertilizer.com/hydrofeed.pdf. I highly recommend that you use the full line of nutes together and follow this schedule. Keep your pH at a steady 5.8


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## stickyicky77 (Nov 12, 2008)

ROCafellaheads said:


> Hey guys I just picked up an aerogarden pro 100 to fuck around with as my other garden is dirt, sorry to say. Do I have to germinate before planting in the aero garden? And also, what light schedule should I start them at?
> 
> Thanks to all and to all a good light.


I have two AG PRO 200's that i use to veg my mother plants in. I veg 2 mothers max in each AG with no problems. I soak my seeds in a glass of water for 24 hrs and then germ them in damp paper towel untill they crack and then plant them in the AG's. I start my seedlings with a drop of Superthrive with some distilled water with a pH of 5.5 and then switch to a weak Foxfarm nute soultion after 2 weeks and change the pH to 5.8. I only use my AG's to veg my mothers and take clones from them. I root my clones in rockwool and then plant them in 4"x4" pots with hydrotons in my 2'x2' flood and drain tray under a 400w hps for flowering. I use the full line of foxfarm nutes and change the rez every 2 weeks and keep a steady pH of 5.8. Using this method i get a harvest and put 15 new clones in my table every 60 days. I could get even more than 15 plants at a time if i had a bigger tray to put them in. I have the AG's lights on a seperate timer set for 18/6 and the pump on 24 hrs. Salad greens or tomatoes are good settings.


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## H2H (Nov 13, 2008)

last night I stuffed up my water and to raise the ph I added my piss, I know its high in nitrogen although I don't really think it was good my overall ph ended up at 5.5 and plants look fine. . . 

Im using a deep water cultivation method. Its my first time so ive made my own design.
I ordered plastic 5l paint buckets and 20l buckets.

My air pump is working inside 2 of the 5l plants and im not sure if one should have the bubbles going strong or on weak. . . my bubbles are befinitely prominent although I just feel I want the bubbles going beserk its really a mystery to me how much bubbles should be going through the water . . . anyway thats the bubbles.

Note : Hydroponics is the way forward. . . love the bubbles!


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## H2H (Nov 13, 2008)

Definitely epson salts is excellent for a nut burn . . . almost instantaneous!


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## Attic Champ (Nov 16, 2008)

wasup people im settin up a dwc/drip feed system in my attic and when its ready im puttin in 4 clones from my healthy azura mother, im using 4 inch rockwool cubes in place above a 20 gallon reservoir and im not sure how i should time the drip feed to avoid overwatering or underwatering, i read about the guy who did 1 minute on 1 hour off but that was aeroponics. I will be using a 10 inch by 12 inch airstone and what im unsure of is if that will affect the water going through the top feed pump. does anyone have a failsafe time schedule for top feeding rockwool? 

i bought a hannagro ph/ec meter and ph up and down to keep the nutrient in check and im hoping the 2 heaters and thermostat i have will be sufficient enough to bring temps from sub 40 to 70. I have a 1 gallon humidifier and i'll use sandwich bags over the clones for extra humidity.

another thing i need to know is how long should i wait to put my nutrients in and whats a good ec or ppm to start at and what should i build up too?

oh ya and ill be using 1 85 watt 5500k cfl so how high should that be above the clones, i read 6 inches for fluorescents but im thinkin i should go with 8.


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## VictorVIcious (Nov 16, 2008)

Attic Champ said:


> wasup people im settin up a dwc/drip feed system in my attic and when its ready im puttin in 4 clones from my healthy azura mother, im using 4 inch rockwool cubes in place above a 20 gallon reservoir and im not sure how i should time the drip feed to avoid overwatering or underwatering, i read about the guy who did 1 minute on 1 hour off but that was aeroponics.


Uhh.... hmmm maybe once every three days or so for about a minute. I am totally confused, rockwool is the most absorbant of all of the mediums and you are going to top water a 4" rockwool block with a drip system?? Is there going to be ny other medium in this system?



> I will be using a 10 inch by 12 inch airstone and what im unsure of is if that will affect the water going through the top feed pump.


No it will not have any negative effect, we would hope it would mean more oxygen to the root zone, thats the purpose of the air stone. 



> does anyone have a failsafe time schedule for top feeding rockwool?


Yep, don't water it until the whole block is almost dry. Use some Hydroton below the block are let the roots grow down into that, water it from the bottom. While your at it, put some around the side and don't top water the block as soon as the roots grow out of it and into the hyrdoton, now water it about 5 times a day. But not the block of rockwool? 



> i bought a hannagro ph/ec meter and ph up and down to keep the nutrient in check and im hoping the 2 heaters and thermostat i have will be sufficient enough to bring temps from sub 40 to 70. I have a 1 gallon humidifier and i'll use sandwich bags over the clones for extra humidity.


What kind of a space, where in the world is this? you have temps in the fortys and you want to raise it by using 2 heaters? In an attic? Has anyone suggested you insultate the space first, if you did you should not need 2 heaters. 



> another thing i need to know is how long should i wait to put my nutrients in and whats a good ec or ppm to start at and what should i build up too?


I normally introduce a 1/4 strength nutes solution when I see roots, 300to400ppm, the top, around 1400 to 1500ppm.



> oh ya and ill be using 1 85 watt 5500k cfl so how high should that be above the clones, i read 6 inches for fluorescents but im thinkin i should go with 8.


There is the problem, that isn't enough light for 4 plants. GArden Knowm has posted a thread on the proximaty of cfl's to the foilage, not 6" or 8". maybe 2" at the most. You are not going to be able to have one light over 4 plants within 2" of the plants and get any kind of yield. VV


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## aluminutty (Nov 16, 2008)

has anybody ever tried an autoflower strain like early wonder skunk in an aero setup?


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## VictorVIcious (Nov 17, 2008)

aluminutty said:


> has anybody ever tried an autoflower strain like early wonder skunk in an aero setup?


 We hqave a SUbforum on AeroGarden, you may want to start there. VV


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## fived (Nov 18, 2008)

Whats the difference between a Bubbler, Aeroponics and a DWC bucket? Which is the best/fastest?


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## HappelWood (Nov 18, 2008)

i've got a question about a growing style. I was originally gonna do a SoG in a 2'x2'x48" grow space, DWC. Using something like, 16 plants, 4 in every square foot. But now i'm thinking of doing LST+super cropping. Like, grow the plant up a little, then super crop at the bottom, bend the plant over with the super cropping, then guide it along keeping it perpendicular to the ground. Still using the same 2'x'2 grow space, but grow 4 plants. alternating sides -> " i!i! " <-. Get clones that are 8-10", throw them into flowering which at 2-3x's normal size, I could continue to grow the plants horizantal until it reaches the end of the grow space, then let it go vertical.


any opinions on this verse just growing a crap ton of little plants? I think this is some sort of SCROG/SOG combo thing...or something. If not, i really just need to know if this will even work effectivly. I'm thinking of of even doing something similiar in an aerogarden for a friend, growing two plants like this, one on each row.

heres some pics so far of what i plan to do. I super cropped these two plants (assuming i did it right).


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## potroast (Nov 19, 2008)

HappelWood, you would be better off using a screen, for a *SCR*een *O*f* G*reen. Fix a screen of 2-inch chicken wire about 10 inches over the medium, and when the plants reach it train them outward by looping over/under the screen. Only 4 plants, and all it takes is a little longer veg time.

HTH


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## Jtoth3ustin (Nov 19, 2008)

like anna nicole............ its soill babi.....


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## Attic Champ (Nov 19, 2008)

VictorVIcious said:


> Uhh.... hmmm maybe once every three days or so for about a minute. I am totally confused, rockwool is the most absorbant of all of the mediums and you are going to top water a 4" rockwool block with a drip system?? Is there going to be ny other medium in this system?
> 
> Yep, don't water it until the whole block is almost dry. Use some Hydroton below the block are let the roots grow down into that, water it from the bottom. While your at it, put some around the side and don't top water the block as soon as the roots grow out of it and into the hyrdoton, now water it about 5 times a day. But not the block of rockwool?
> 
> ...


well since these are clones shouldnt i start out with less intense light then lower it when theyre rooted or will they root faster with the light 2 inches away because I read in the medical marijuana horticulture book that clones should start with fluorescents at 6 inches. I am only using the rockwool and i dont think i should let it dry out too much while they are rooting so i guess ill just get the timing of it by trial and error with less emphasis on the error. My attic setup does have a well insulated 36 square foot room but i underestimated how efficient it was until i read the thermometer to be 60 when it was 38 outside so i will probably only need 1 heater.


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## VictorVIcious (Nov 19, 2008)

Attic Champ said:


> well since these are clones shouldnt i start out with less intense light then lower it when theyre rooted or will they root faster with the light 2 inches away because I read in the medical marijuana horticulture book that clones should start with fluorescents at 6 inches.


I haven't read that book, I have read Garden Knowms and he posted a thread in this forum about it. I put my t-5' right at the top of the clones, did the same with t-12's and t-8's. I haven't used the cfl's so I would reley on others for advice about the cfl's. 



Attic Champ said:


> I am only using the rockwool and i dont think i should let it dry out too much while they are rooting so i guess ill just get the timing of it by trial and error with less emphasis on the error.


Rockwool retains water longer than any other growing medium and yes you do learn the rockwool by trial and error, trial and success, with the emphasize on the success. You get a 'feel' for how much water is just enough. See what you want to have happen is for the roots to grow, they have to if they need to, to get water. If you keep water around the mainstem constantly they don't have to grow down looking for water, its always right there, it can stunt their growth. In addition your roots need oxygen and they get that when the medium dries out, gets watered and drains, pulling air to the void left. I had a problem in my room lately. I discovered I was water too deep, I use flood and drain, the water was getting to the rockwool block and I stunted my plants growth. You can do what you want to. 



Attic Champ said:


> My attic setup does have a well insulated 36 square foot room but i underestimated how efficient it was until i read the thermometer to be 60 when it was 38 outside so i will probably only need 1 heater.


That makes me feel a lot better, raising it 10 to 15 degrees shouldn't be too bad. VV


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## huntington (Nov 21, 2008)

does anybody know exactly how much oxygen your roots need if they are suspended in the nutrient solution? answers in mg/L would be most helpful


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## VictorVIcious (Nov 21, 2008)

huntington said:


> does anybody know exactly how much oxygen your roots need if they are suspended in the nutrient solution? answers in mg/L would be most helpful


 Why? do you have a meter that will test your solution and give you the mg/liter? 
One of the most important thing you can do is control your res temps, the water will hold about twice as much oxygen at 65degrees than it will hold at 70 degrees. Temps above that can be detrimental. VV


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## HappelWood (Nov 21, 2008)

really really? i read once that 72 degrees was the best temp, and so i worry when my atmosphere temp gauge gets into the low 60s. But it's the opposite, i should be happy when my temps get into the low 60s?

i don't have a water temp guage, maybe round 2 i will get one, but i'm still doing my first grow ever.


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## huntington (Nov 22, 2008)

From what i know you need the roots to be exposed to 5mg/L 
and yeah i got a DO test kit because i am having root problems 
i know the problem is that my resevoir is nearly 80 degrees so DO is hard to sustain 
is there a better way to cool the resevoir then cooling the whole room down


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## huntington (Nov 22, 2008)

this is a picture of the roots and plant from temp res problem


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## VictorVIcious (Nov 22, 2008)

HappelWood said:


> really really? i read once that 72 degrees was the best temp, and so i worry when my atmosphere temp gauge gets into the low 60s. But it's the opposite, i should be happy when my temps get into the low 60s?
> 
> i don't have a water temp guage, maybe round 2 i will get one, but i'm still doing my first grow ever.


there is a temp that is too low too, and I loaned out the book that has that information in it. If anyone knows the temp at which it gets too low please help. 
For a water temperature gauge, I bought a dialstem thermometer at Meijer for like $5.00 in the cooking section. VV


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## VictorVIcious (Nov 22, 2008)

huntington said:


> From what i know you need the roots to be exposed to 5mg/L
> and yeah i got a DO test kit because i am having root problems
> i know the problem is that my resevoir is nearly 80 degrees so DO is hard to sustain
> is there a better way to cool the resevoir then cooling the whole room down


 Yes there is, freeze some 2 liter bottles of water, drop your res level and put them in it, Have 2 times the number you need and rotate them into and out of you freezer and res. CHillers run around $400.00. 
And from the look of that plant you do have serius issues as FIlthy Fletch would say, matter of fact you might want to ask him to take a look at these pictures, I would consider him an aero expert, he has a thread for building them in 30 minutes. VV


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## huntington (Nov 23, 2008)

here's some pics of an op i am working on right now. just posting it to address any questions, comments, or concerns any other growers may have feel free for constructive criticism


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## VictorVIcious (Nov 24, 2008)

huntington said:


> here's some pics of an op i am working on right now. just posting it to address any questions, comments, or concerns any other growers may have feel free for constructive criticism


Looks professional, large plants or mothers in the single hole tubs?? Is this in a journal somewhere, I'd like to find out more?? VV


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## huntington (Nov 24, 2008)

all the plants shown in the pictures are vegging the mother plants are kept in a different location . part of a new cultivation coop between several farmers. the strains inthe picture are newberry, ak-48, and nothern lights had cherryslider but did not do well due to overwatering from res tank getting to hot 
Here i have included some pics of problem form the resevoir being to hot, so others can identify the problem


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## Ahzweepay (Nov 24, 2008)

I am working on my first grow and am a little unsure of how my plants are progressing. These were started from bag seed (I know - bad idea), and have been under fluorescent lights & getting nutes for just over 2 weeks.

They are in a dripper system that's set to drip 10min every 4hrs - lights are on 24hrs and set about 4" above plant tops. 

I'm guessing that #7 should be put out of its misery due to the odd loop at its base, and slowish growth.

#10 started out neck and neck with 8 (the biggest one) then suddenly slowed. Seems now that it has 2 heads!?!  Has this plant basically topped itself?

I'm not seeing any major problems overall, but seems most of the plants have some sort of "character mark" here and there. 

...just looking to see if the wise folks of Rollitup see any issues...


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## Ahzweepay (Nov 25, 2008)

Whatcha think of these spots?? 
Noticed it on my best one this afternoon...


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## potroast (Nov 26, 2008)

huntington said:


> all the plants shown in the pictures are vegging the mother plants are kept in a different location . part of a new cultivation coop between several farmers. the strains inthe picture are newberry, ak-48, and nothern lights had cherryslider but did not do well due to overwatering from res tank getting to hot
> Here i have included some pics of problem form the resevoir being to hot, so others can identify the problem



If those roots are slimey and break off easily, you have advanced root rot. You already know the problem, your res temps must stay below 75F. You may need to start over, or at least cut that plant back, and let her recover.

HTH


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## potroast (Nov 26, 2008)

Ahzweepay said:


> Whatcha think of these spots??
> Noticed it on my best one this afternoon...



That spot is probably a result of nutes, so maybe flush some plain water for a day, or cut back on the concentration a little. Your plants look just fine, and you will always notice little differences as they grow. Using bagseed, you may have a different looking plant from each seed. And your biggest and fastest growing plants will usually be men. Those branchy and smaller plants are the girls.

But it's easy to be fooled, so you still have to properly verify their sex. 

Keep your fluorescent tubes 1 inch above tops as best you can. You are probably watering the cubes too often, I would do it once a day, and see if the cubes stay wet enough. Once you get the feel of the weight of a wet cube, it's easy to check by picking it up.

HTH


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## Ahzweepay (Nov 26, 2008)

Thanks for the feedback! 
Did some digging around online last night and pretty much came to the same conclusion... overwatering...
I cut back the watering from 10min every 4hrs to 10min every 6hrs. I'll watch them for a couple of days and we'll see if there are any changes. If things don't start looking better I'll cut back on the watering some more.

Thanks to everyone on this forum - what an excellent resource for all us newbs 


_"Grow little weeds groooow!"_


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## Ahzweepay (Nov 26, 2008)

Yep - definite overwaterage 
Only a couple of my plants are showing the sickly roots tho, so hopefully I caught it on time.
Decided to leave the pump off the timer overnight to give them some time to dry out more. I lifted each cube to try and "spin" them a little drier, but none even let out a drip (I didn't "spin" them very hard either).

Is there any way to tell if a plant should be put in a pot by how many roots are hanging out the bottom of the cube? I was planning to put these into pots of hydroton at around 4 weeks (next weekend), but am wondering if this one shouldn't be moved now - thoughts??

So, here's a shot of the (hopefully) early stages of root-rot - both roots and top...


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## potroast (Nov 26, 2008)

I don't see any sign of root rot, everything looks healthy. When roots stick out of the medium into the air, the tips die. I've always called it "air-pruning." Whenever you put your rockwool into pots of rocks, the roots will start growing out of the cube again. It would be best to put them into the rocks now, while the roots are still alive and ready to grow.

HTH


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## Ahzweepay (Nov 28, 2008)

Excellent - thanks again for the info potroast!

I was reading the Al B Faqt and saw a mention that GH Flora series are not compatible with H2O2. There wasn't much in the way of explanation, nor corroboration. Do you know anything about this? I'm using the 3 part series, and had been dosing with H2O2 per Al. Other than the one plant with the spots I haven't seen any issues, but if H2O2 is neutralizing some portion of my nutrients I'd like to discontinue it.

Also, I've seen mention in the forums about giving others +rep points. How does one go about doing that? I've looked high and low and can't seem to find where that is.


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## VictorVIcious (Nov 29, 2008)

h2o2 kills living things, if your using organic nutes, it could effectively kill them. To rep someone you click on the little scale of justice, upper right hand corner of the post. This will bring up a dialog box where you put your comment, I always try to let the person know whp gave them the rep, I just put VV at the end. VV


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## Eharmony420 (Nov 29, 2008)

Ahzweepay said:


> Excellent - thanks again for the info potroast!
> 
> I was reading the Al B Faqt and saw a mention that GH Flora series are not compatible with H2O2. There wasn't much in the way of explanation, nor corroboration. Do you know anything about this? I'm using the 3 part series, and had been dosing with H2O2 per Al. Other than the one plant with the spots I haven't seen any issues, but if H2O2 is neutralizing some portion of my nutrients I'd like to discontinue it.
> 
> Also, I've seen mention in the forums about giving others +rep points. How does one go about doing that? I've looked high and low and can't seem to find where that is.


 
oh shit, me too. lol. i am using 35 h202 and i wondered if i should be using hygrozyme, or guard. I read the same post but it was so long ago i figured he meant botanicares or something. They are organic. Wait, lol, i am being jogged as I type, i rem something about nutrient numbers and it was inconclusive. I lost it. I hope not, i dont wanna repurchase everything again. Thought i could relax for a min or two. 
I have noticed nothing but better plants since i began h202. I was having probs. Ph probs i think. So i cant say i have noticed anything bad form h202. I will look or call a hydro store for us. Later though i work this morning.


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## gvega187 (Nov 29, 2008)

lol i have been through this query before so perhaps my responses from growers like AL b and Earl may help u. 

If you are using hygrozyme do not use h2o2 

if you use h2o2 do not use hygrozyme

I think somehow they can be used together in small quantities or something...but they basically do the same thing so forget about it. Just spend the $ on some hygrozyme if your using organic nutes and 35% h2o2 if your using chemical nutes. Yes the GH flora series is "hydro organic" or for the sake of this question...organic. 

JUST BE SURE TO NOT PUT your high powered H2o2 in a organic soup.  

HTH


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## gvega187 (Nov 29, 2008)

and now i has a question. 

I am wondering what your favorite reflectors are Potroast. I would like to try a simple adjust a wing with cool tube, but recently realized they are actually a lot more expensive than the huge SS white box reflectors I am used 2.

Any prefernce or just as long as da lumen get to da plant it good. 

I think AL b said cool tubes are more efficient at cooling (makes sense for low powered fans) and they also distribute a larger field of lumen's ( aka 5x5 out of a 1000watt instead of 4x4 at the same heights)


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## Ahzweepay (Nov 29, 2008)

Eharmony420 said:


> So i cant say i have noticed anything bad form h202. I will look or call a hydro store for us. Later though i work this morning.


Sounds like a plan, although seems the consensus is that GH contains some organics - shooooot. 
I sent an email to the GH tech support address last night asking them about using H2O2 w/the Flora series - will post their reply when I get one.


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## Ahzweepay (Nov 29, 2008)

gvega187 said:


> JUST BE SURE TO NOT PUT your high powered H2o2 in a organic soup.


Do you happen to know what component of the GH nutes are organic? 
Thanks for the info.


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## VictorVIcious (Nov 30, 2008)

gvega187 said:


> and now i has a question.
> 
> I am wondering what your favorite reflectors are Potroast. I would like to try a simple adjust a wing with cool tube, but recently realized they are actually a lot more expensive than the huge SS white box reflectors I am used 2.
> 
> ...


https://www.rollitup.org/do-yourself/109209-diy-batwing-reflector-cool-tube.html
I built this based on AL's measurements. The next one will be simpler and cost less. I learned some of this is really not necessary. I bought the cooltube for a $100.00, built the Batwing reflector for $50.00, the ballast for $170.00. VV


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## Ahzweepay (Nov 30, 2008)

Moved 2 of em to pots yesterday - #8 continues to get a bit worse tho.
Here's a couple of updated pics. 

Should I cut back on the watering more?


I've attached several pictures of #8, and one of #14 which is also showing a bit of the browning on the edges.


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## Ahzweepay (Dec 1, 2008)

I cut back the watering to 3x per day for 10min each.

When checking on my tank this evening I noticed some whitish/grey slime here and there, so decided to change it out. I cleaned everything with bleach water and then rinsed the hell outta it with plain water. Remixed my nutrients and totally left out the H2O2 (I had started the last tank with it, but discontinued when I found out that GH nutes likely contain organics). Lowered the pH from 7.0 to 5.8 and ppm 407. 

I checked the pH a couple hours later (pump hadn't run yet) and found it at 6.2, so lowered it to 5.5 this time. 
I'll recheck in the morning after it makes it's first scheduled run on the new tank. _(Checked in the AM - tank was at 5.8, so left well enough alone)_

Woulda added some pictures, but jumped to action too quick and had things cleaned up before I thought of it.

I've attached an image of a plant that's N deficient. Unfortunately the image isn't super close/sharp, but kinda looks like my plants (see previous post) - do you agree??? If so, could it be that the H2O2 I added to my tank last round destroyed the N and thus caused these issues in my plants? ...or do you think it's just a case of over watering???


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## Ahzweepay (Dec 1, 2008)

Figured I'd stop squatting on the Hydro thread and start my own journal 
Please stop by and let me know whatcha think...

https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/136061-journal-my-attempt-mr-green.html

Thanks!

FYI - I received the following reply from Gen Hydro Tech Support today...

"Hello,
There are no living organisms in Flora Series. It is perfectly fine to use H2O2 with it.
Thank you,
Jesse Pennington
GH"


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## VictorVIcious (Dec 1, 2008)

Ahzweepay said:


> Figured I'd stop squatting on the Hydro thread and start my own journal
> Please stop by and let me know whatcha think...
> 
> https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/136061-journal-my-attempt-mr-green.html
> ...


Wish I woulda thought of that, a journal of your own, now we know the Flora Seies is not organic? VV


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## Ahzweepay (Dec 1, 2008)

Yep - that's what I'm going with for the time being - *GH + H2O2 = OK*.
Although I don't plan to dose my tank just yet as I've had a full day of stable pH and want to see if that continues.


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## potroast (Dec 3, 2008)

Yeah, the GH Flora *Series*, of Micro, Grow & Bloom is all chemical, so you can use H2O2 with them. The GH Flora *Nova* is mostly from organic sources, so you don't want to use H2O2 with that, or if you use some organic supplement with your chemical nutes, like enzymes, or fungi, or bacteria. I've never used H2O2 because of stuff like that. 

For HID lamps I use the large super horizontal box reflectors. They have a nice even distribution, and while more difficult to move air through, they do the job. If I ever upgrade, it will probably be to cooltubes, but it looks to me like the reflectors allow a lot of light to escape.

HTH


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## VictorVIcious (Dec 3, 2008)

potroast said:


> Yeah, the GH Flora *Series*, of Micro, Grow & Bloom is all chemical, so you can use H2O2 with them. The GH Flora *Nova* is mostly from organic sources, so you don't want to use H2O2 with that, or if you use some organic supplement with your chemical nutes, like enzymes, or fungi, or bacteria. I've never used H2O2 because of stuff like that.
> 
> For HID lamps I use the large super horizontal box reflectors. They have a nice even distribution, and while more difficult to move air through, they do the job. If I ever upgrade, it will probably be to cooltubes, but it looks to me like the reflectors allow a lot of light to escape.
> 
> HTH


Perhaps you missed my DIY Batwing Relfector? lol VV


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## sharonb1 (Dec 4, 2008)

I recently decided to set up my own hydro system for the fun of having a winter project, however... my darling little seedlings which progressed nicely into the veg mode are showing definite signs of stress. (I feel like I'm a child abuser). The typical browning and yellowing of the veins and leaves, lower leaves with dark spots on the edges.

I know it could be a plethora of issues such as ph, over nuteing, etc... I also know that this will be trial and error until I get the right formula figured out but ---- I can't help but think that it has something to do with the basics such as my growing medium. 

I am trying to do a hydro system starting with the a drip irrigation for the veg state. After germinating some random seeds in my Aerogarden for three weeks, I transplanted several of them into 3 gallon pots using something I found at the local garden center called Shultz aquatic plant soil (tiny kiln dried clay pellets). It states it is ph balanced blah, blah, blah. I could not find any of the hydro pellets around here, so I improvised. 

Soooo, I just flushed out the system with phd, distilled h20, cleaned my resevior, and added the 1/2 strength nutes with 5 gallons of distilled h20. Water temp is approx 72 degrees the room is 70 degrees, lighting with two cool and two warm cfl bulbs. Iam trying to be meticulous as far as cleanliness, no bugs so far. 

Has any one heard of this type of grow medium for hdroponics????


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## VictorVIcious (Dec 5, 2008)

Sounds like hydroton to me, small clay pellets. VV


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## potroast (Dec 6, 2008)

Yeah, some kind of expanded clay aggregate. Almost any kind of rocks will do, my first ebb&flow setup I used pea gravel. 

For growrocks, it's best to flood and drain. That pushes all of the stale air out of the rocks, and sucks fresh air in. If you drip into rocks, you must be aware of the narrow water column of the drip, and how some of the rocks will not get wet. It's best to use a drip-ring, that goes around the plant.

HTH


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## max420thc (Dec 6, 2008)

im having some problems cloning..i am using a airoponic cloner..and a DWC cloner..ive set up three different ways..one clone bucket..aero...clonex..vitamin b..hydrogaurd..the two clones i took for it..are starting to show signs of roots..starting.they have been in the bucket nine days..one bucket is set up with superthrive.just a couple of drops in 3 gallons..tap water...vit B and hydrogaurd...the clone is still alive..with no sign of root;s starting been in the aero clone bucket for 9 days ..the DWC cloner ive got going has a heater set at 72 F i put 2 ml of h2o2 in 10 gallons.tap water about ten drops of super thrive..ph set at 6 for everything..and checked daily and kept at 6..the DWC cloner the 4 clones i have going in them seem to have what looks like SNOT on the end of them?they have been in the DWC cloner for 6 days now,,i was wondering if you knew what that was? is that roots wanting to form? ..the clones in the aero buckets i have ..seem to have little white bumps growing from a 45 degree cut at the end of the stem..and getting larger..all the clones are fairly green looking..any advice to start poping clones in a reasonable amount of time would be greatly appreciated..thank you in advance...


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## DeweyKox (Dec 7, 2008)

Got a few questions. Doing ebb & flow hydro for the first time. Got a few grow off of soil under my belt, but it's hydro time. I want to grow al b fuct systle. I have a 4x2 flood table for my flower room. Currently have clones waiting to show roots. Once they do, will plce them in pots with all perlite. 

My main question for now is, al would always grow at 1400ppm on his flower tables. Does this mean he always use the same amount of nutes? The reason I ask is because I only have one flood table for flowering, and want too add clones every 2 weeks. Will this setup still work with the same nuts mixture for new clones to finish? I don't have the space for seperate flood tables.

Also, how often should I water with perlite? I'm using the large chunky fox farm version. And what time of the day should I water if the lights come on at say 7pm?


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## VictorVIcious (Dec 7, 2008)

Why would you put 2 ml of h202 in ten gallons of water, just to tease it? Super Thrive is 1/8 tsp per gallon so for your 10 gallons you would need about 7 mil, not 8 drops. Obviously none of this is critical, it just takes longer when you don't read and follow label directions. If the stuff that looks like snot is slimy get rid of the heater, if not its probably roots getting ready to form and the 45 degree angle nubs are definately roots starting to form, wait a week and see. 
One of the reasons Al uses four seperate tables is because of the canna nutes he uses, at some point in the cycle they have an additive that the plants get for a short duration, I use a similar bloom stimulant in the last four weeks of bloom. The other problem you have is the height of the plants, if you prop the shorter ones up in a flood and drain system they won't get watered. You could use a drip system and just use the tray to drain the water back into the res, top watering them, its more fiddle but....
VV


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## max420thc (Dec 8, 2008)

i smoked a bunch of clones...putting 35% h2o2 in with them at 1.7 ml per liter...and on the bottle it says. one drop per gallon...reading the side of a superthrive bottle is like trying to read a chinese news paper..thanks VV appreciate the help...


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## Dimefan89 (Dec 8, 2008)

i have never grew anything yet but i was wondering how long should the veg stage be and how long should the flowering stage be?


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## VictorVIcious (Dec 8, 2008)

Dimefan89 said:


> i have never grew anything yet but i was wondering how long should the veg stage be and how long should the flowering stage be?





> hey guys, im about to start my first grow ever today. i just need to know the following about the stages:
> germenating- how long does this take?


The reason you may not have found direct answers to your question is probably that you are just not familiar with the site and thats ok, I wasn't familiar with it for a long time, I have an excuse, I am old. Germination can take from a day to a couple of weeks, no one really knows why, some say you can speed it up by germinating in a warm place, I haven't found that necessary, just a wet paper towel, in a closed plastic container is what I use, if you want to see how you could view the first few pages of my blues thread. 




> vegetative- what light cycle should i put it on?
> -and how long does this stage take


You may get 2 different answers to this one, experienced growers have proven that a 24 hour lights on schedule can give you a bigger yield, some prefer the 18on/6 off schedule just becasue they like it, I am one of those, you have to decide this one. As far as to how long you can veg, its kinda dependant on the height you have available, keep in mind your plants will at least double and possible triple thier size once you start flowering so you have to plan for that. Take the height of your pots, and the height of your system, if any, the height of your light and about 2" for the space to your plants if your using cfl's. allow maybe a foot at the top for venting and such. Subtract that from the height of your space. When your plant are 1/3 of that difference, flower them, if it leaves you in the hole the space won't work. 




> flowering- what light cycle should i use?
> - how long does this stage take?


You force flowering changing your light cycle to 12on/ 12 off. And how long that takes is strain dependant, any where from two to three months, sometimes a little more, depending on lights, most seed sellers tell you how long you can expect flowering to take. 




> some other questions are: what wattage cfl's should i get? is higher or lower better? whats the difference?


Now, here is where you are going to have to do some research, like abe kinda on your own. We even have a subforum for cfl growers, and hundreds of folks have spent thier time posting journals about thier cfl grows, one of our members wrote a book about it, do a little research, go read some grow jornals, they even have pictures. The difference is price and the amount of light they put out, and the yield you get.



> i ahve searched 1000+ posts and have not found answers that directly answer these questions, so plaes dont say "research it"


I believe you, name three of them just to show the rest of the folks though, ok. VV
I just answered this yesterday so I copied and pasted it here, just ignore the stuff you didn't ask about. VV


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## Dimefan89 (Dec 8, 2008)

Thanks for the answer it is exactly what i looking for


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## bmn420 (Dec 8, 2008)

how often do u use nuiutes? which system do u have? i have an aerogarden 3, and was wondering if the nutes were good or bad, and why. i heard 1 good and one bad, so im not sure which to beleive.thanx


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## yelodrvr (Dec 9, 2008)

only been growing for a year now. so i am still a newbie. in a year i have went through most systems. (drip,ntf,DWC ect.) i stopped at the aerophonics system for now. homemade of course. 

been following a few other grows here at PS. but most are vague when it comes to the details. or i was really baked and didn't pay attention. 

i have noticed the info on aero is usually duplicated from site to site. (word for word almost) , or so different in some aspects that its conflicting. i rather see it working in a grow or hear from someone using the methods themselves.

questions

1.* in aero do you run the pump 24 hrs? or the 1min on 5min off?*
if so have you experimented with it or stayed with the same schedule the whole time? did you notice a difference? i run 24hrs now in the past i did the 1 on 5 off. i didn't notice a difference, but have had other issues skewing the results. i should also mention i use air pumps and diffusers in the res and the root chamber. thats why i stopped the 1on 5off.

2.*do you have a aero grow going? post a link please. not interested in the aerogarden. *sorry not trying offend just need something to compare to. a control group if you will. 


this question is not just for aero. anybody's response would be appreciated.

3. *what are the lowest room temps in flower before you would see adverse affects?* i drop below 65 at night sometimes.

4. want to see my areo grow? its in the sig man!! LOL as a matter of fact its aero from seed/clone to harvest.


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## VictorVIcious (Dec 10, 2008)

bmn420 said:


> how often do u use nuiutes? which system do u have? i have an aerogarden 3, and was wondering if the nutes were good or bad, and why. i heard 1 good and one bad, so im not sure which to beleive.thanx


Hey bmn, probably what you have been seeing is folks giving advice about nutes in the first stages of life. Starting with seeds or clones, you will not need, and your plants can't use, additional nutes for about the first two weeks, and putting too high of a concentration of nutes can hurt them. They are babies, you feed them like babies, a little drip from a bottle, then you move up to something a little thicker, and thicker, feed em with an eye dropper, not a bulldozer. 
I usually start with 1/4 strength nute solution at about two weeks, and then if there aren't any adverse effects, I would bump it up a quarter with each watering in a soil system, about every 3 or 4 days, or bump it up two times a week in a hydro system, until its at full strength.
IF you are using MIracle Grow Soil with the nutes in it, you may not need any additional nutes, GK did not add any nutes when he wrote the book, it did take awhile before anyone mentioned that. VV


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## canadianimmigrant2001 (Dec 11, 2008)

using a garden of ease and a 250 HPS a couple of cfl bulbs for vegeing for 30 days or 4th - 6th node switching to 12/12 hour hps for 8 weeks how does the garden of ease from discount-hydro.com proform? legal 420 NOW in Michigan


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## VictorVIcious (Dec 11, 2008)

canadianimmigrant2001 said:


> using a garden of ease and a 250 HPS a couple of cfl bulbs for vegeing for 30 days or 4th - 6th node switching to 12/12 hour hps for 8 weeks how does the garden of ease from discount-hydro.com proform? legal 420 NOW in Michigan


Not familiar with that one, all of the systems work to some extent, you won't be able to adequatly flower 12 plants under a single 250 watt hps imo. legal now 420 in Michigan is not accurate althought you would have the right to use Medical Marijuana as an affirmative defense in court, we are trying to keep everyone cool until all of the details are in place, the Michigan Department of Community Health has the proposed rules on thier website, I would encourage everyone that wants to know what kind of bullshit they are trying to pull attned the public n=meeting to discuss them on Jan 5th, details are on the website as well. I will be working with the MichiganMedicalmarijuanaAssociation, which is a 501 ?? non-profit. Check out our site, officially opening Dec 15th. VV


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## DeweyKox (Dec 15, 2008)

Does taking an hour to drain a table seem too long? It takes me 16 mintues to flood. Im new to this and was just wondering if its normal?


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## VictorVIcious (Dec 15, 2008)

DeweyKox said:


> Does taking an hour to drain a table seem too long? It takes me 16 mintues to flood. Im new to this and was just wondering if its normal?


No. there is a problem here, maybe more than one. 
If it takes you 16 minutes to flood your tray to the right depth, then your pump does not have enough capacity. Mine take a maximum 4 minutes. 
If it takes it an hour to drain you are filling it too high. There should not be a whole lot of difference between the time it takes to fill and the time it takes to drain. When we say flood, we don't really mean flood, we only mean enough to water the plants, not give them a bath to thier armpits.
You ,may aslo want to check for some obstuction in the line, maybe to many elbows or too small of lines. 
You are not providing enough details to give you a good answer, you need a journal, I am not good at guessing the system, medium, etc. VV


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## DeweyKox (Dec 15, 2008)

The flood table is 7 inches in height. My pots I believe are 3/4 gallon and are about 7 inches in height as well. Will be transplanting clones in rock wool into the pots with chunky perlite. I am currently flooding the table to about 3 inches of depth and starts to flow out the over flow drain. Is this too high? I figure if I plant the cubes 1 1/2 inches below the 7 inch height, I need to food another inch below the cubes. So 7 inches minus say 3 inches, would mean I should flood up to 4 inches, but I am only flooding to the over flow which is 3 inches. I do not have plants in the setup yet, hence no journal.

I need to try and get the bend out of the line going I the pump I think. But I am new to all this, so if there is any advice I need, please give, I can use all the info I can get!


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## DeweyKox (Dec 15, 2008)

OK, got my flood and drain down. Flood now takes 2 minutes on 396GPH pump. Drain takes 6 minutes. Much better. Now I just need some freaking plants to test out.......


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## VictorVIcious (Dec 15, 2008)

DeweyKox said:


> OK, got my flood and drain down. Flood now takes 2 minutes on 396GPH pump. Drain takes 6 minutes. Much better. Now I just need some freaking plants to test out.......


that makes sense now. I have a couple of the 396gph in use as well. VV


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## DeweyKox (Dec 15, 2008)

Yea, Its fast, might go back to the 270 cause its causing a whirlpool and getting air right before the over flow flows over. I wish I had a larger rez tank, but I can't go bigger unless I have one custom built to the size I need. I have very little height. I'm working with 4 1/2 feet top to bottom. 

I have 33 inches from table to light. I will have to take clones at a very small statue and do a perpetual to get the amount of bud I want. But will have very little trimming to do when harvest time comes...... 

Hopefully the 600W wont make them grow into the light. I am thinking, if clones are 4-6 inches, they should only triple in height if any. So a 6 inch clone should harvest out at a max height of 18 inches. That will give them about 9 inches from light which is perfect even with slightly high temps. Which right now I'm getting 60 degrees at night. If it goes up 15 degrees, I am still fine, as all the ventilation is at its slowest speed using the fan controller. I kind of went over board on ventilation, but will need it in the summer months.


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## GypsyBush (Dec 17, 2008)

Hi Poroast!
Gotta question...

In a DWC set up, with net pots and hydroton around rockwool cubes, can I get away without a drip system before the roots touch the solution?

I was thinking of using deep pots and keeping the rockwool well above the water, but with the hydroton in the water...

Does that make sense?

Do you have any suggestions?

I am using a 25 gal rubbermaid tote for a res...

Thanks !!!


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## potroast (Dec 17, 2008)

In any pot of rocks with a rockwool starter cube, I water the cube and wet the rocks by hand once or twice a day for the first week or so. And yes, flood to below the rockwool.

HTH


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## GypsyBush (Dec 17, 2008)

Thanks!!!


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## Matty10 (Dec 18, 2008)

I recently decided that I am ready to start growing my own BUD. I will be growing out of one of my apartment closets. I have already designed and built my growing set up, but I was wondering the best temperature to grow in the closet? I blocked all the vents in the apartment and ran ducting into the closet so I can run the fan to get fresh air into the growing area. I purchased a 1000w HPS light, which I know think is a little excessive. I was told that it is best to grow between 70 - 75 degrees, but my light emits too much heat. I decided that I was going to run the AC and by turning it down to 70 degrees the closet fluctuates between 71 - 82 degrees. Is this ok? Does it matter that the temperature fluctuates? Does anyone have any suggestions?


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## GypsyBush (Dec 18, 2008)

Matty10 said:


> Does anyone have any suggestions?


Yeah.. a cool tube and proper ventilation... then you will have no temperature issues...

Cheers...


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## potroast (Dec 22, 2008)

Yes, a Cool Tube or any air-cooled hood for your lamp, with the hot air exhausted from your closet. Air conditioning should be a last resort, after all other ventilation is taken care of. The larger your plants get, the more cool fresh air they will need. Yes, ideal air temps in the 70s.

HTH


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## GoinHydro47 (Dec 23, 2008)

Hi Everyone,

I want to grow 6 plants in a 3 gal container that i purchased from wal-mart. i will be using a 400w light. im using this size container because i would like to get 4 going for a perpetual harvest but i want to get it down to a science before i exert all that time and money. What would be the appropriate nute formula for each stage of the plants ? Im just not sure if i have to make it stronger due to more plants in the res. or mix use 1/3 - 1/2 strength of whats on the back of the label. Any input would be helpful...HAPPY GROWING !!


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## lorenzo08 (Dec 23, 2008)

GoinHydro47 said:


> I want to grow 6 plants in a 3 gal container that i purchased from wal-mart. i will be using a 400w light. im using this size container because i would like to get 4 going for a perpetual harvest but i want to get it down to a science before i exert all that time and money. What would be the appropriate nute formula for each stage of the plants ? Im just not sure if i have to make it stronger due to more plants in the res. or mix use 1/3 - 1/2 strength of whats on the back of the label. Any input would be helpful...HAPPY GROWING !!


you want to grow 6 plants in a single 3 gallon pot? get 5 more pots. no, you don't make it stronger. you'll want to start off with a very low strength solution and slowly work up closer to full strength as weeks go by. the first 2 weeks you can use plain water. keep an eye out for nute burn or any kind of problems. flushing is your friend.


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## GoinHydro47 (Dec 23, 2008)

Thanks for the input...its not really a 3 gal pot, but more like a short rubbermaid container...the number of plants doesnt affect the strength of the nute formula ??


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## GypsyBush (Dec 23, 2008)

GoinHydro47 said:


> Thanks for the input...its not really a 3 gal pot, but more like a short rubbermaid container...the number of plants doesnt affect the strength of the nute formula ??


In my opinion, and I AM A NEWB... the best way to regulate your nutes is with a TDS/EC meter...

It will give the PPM (Parts Per Million) of your solution, allowing you to fine tune your solution to your plant's specific needs...

It removes the guess work and makes it more like a recipe you can follow time after time...

I use one of these... and this site is the cheapest I have ever seen it...

http://www.gchydro.com/HANNA+GroCheck+Combo+Meter+-+pH+&+TDS+Meter.html







Best of Luck...

Gypsy...


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## lorenzo08 (Dec 23, 2008)

GoinHydro47 said:


> Thanks for the input...its not really a 3 gal pot, but more like a short rubbermaid container...the number of plants doesnt affect the strength of the nute formula ??


I was under the impression you were doing a soil grow. I forgot what the thread was titled. same answer either way, number of plants doesn't affect the nute strength. the plants will use the water and nutes faster with more plants, so you might need to add water and/or nutes more often, but I wouldn't make the strength any stronger then you would with a single plant. are you doing deep water culture? plan for the future. the roots tangle together when the plants are in the same pot. it wont be easy to move them once they're bigger. 2 or 3 plants in a 3 gallon bin might be better, or get a bigger bin.


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## GypsyBush (Dec 23, 2008)

Bigger res. also means less fluctuations... more stable environment for the roots will benefit the whole plant....


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## GypsyBush (Dec 26, 2008)

Hey Potroast...

Does flooding 15 min every 4 hours sound right for ebb/flow with hydroton and rapid rooters???

Thanks....


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## potroast (Dec 26, 2008)

Every 4 hours is good, but the 15 minutes is not needed. It's best to flood to max level and drain. With a loose particle medium like growrocks you just need to wet and re-aerate.

HTH


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## talontsi973 (Dec 27, 2008)

hey guys Im new to growing weed and Im starting out hydrponically does anyone have any pointer they can give me b4 i start.


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## yelodrvr (Dec 27, 2008)

potroast said:


> Yes, a Cool Tube or any air-cooled hood for your lamp, with the hot air exhausted from your closet. Air conditioning should be a last resort, after all other ventilation is taken care of. The larger your plants get, the more cool fresh air they will need. Yes, ideal air temps in the 70s.
> 
> HTH


hey potroast (or anybody), what about low temps. my room gets down to 55f-65f at lights off. what you think time for some heat, or is it ok?


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## VictorVIcious (Dec 28, 2008)

yelodrvr said:


> hey potroast (or anybody), what about low temps. my room gets down to 55f-65f at lights off. what you think time for some heat, or is it ok?


Average 60, sounds like fall temperatures too me, nice and warm during the day, lots of sun, slowly cooling down at night. Below 50? its time to start considering some heat. Until you get to freezing, lower than 50 will impeded growth, not kill them. VV


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## czogbe (Dec 28, 2008)

I forgot to soak the rockwool cubes before I put my seeds in them. They're growing but just not very fast. Will this be an issue down the road or will they pick up the pace once the roots hit the water properly?


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## VictorVIcious (Dec 28, 2008)

talontsi973 said:


> hey guys Im new to growing weed and Im starting out hydrponically does anyone have any pointer they can give me b4 i start.


Hey Talon, sure. Read the start of this thread, pot roast cover all of the different Hydro system and the mediums or mediumles grows. I think its all in the first fourteen or so pages. 



> czogbeI forgot to soak the rockwool cubes before I put my seeds in them. They're growing but just not very fast. Will this be an issue down the road or will they pick up the pace once the roots hit the water properly?


Well.......hmmm...... so what have you done since then? I am suprised that they are alive, I am going to guess that you have been using ph'd water on them and possible that has corrected the problem. Not sure of any of the details of your system, I would assume your talking DWC or Aero. If your roots make it to the water and you are making sure the water doesn't hit the cube, they will probably be fine. VV


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## czogbe (Dec 29, 2008)

Thanks VV,
They are still alive and thriving. I took a look yesterday and the roots are starting to come out of the pot, which is a good sign. I'm running an aeroponics system. I haven't messed with the ph yet. It's steady between 6%. Here are some pics at one week. I also have three in soil. This won't be an issue will it?


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## VictorVIcious (Dec 29, 2008)

czogbe said:


> Thanks VV,
> They are still alive and thriving. I took a look yesterday and the roots are starting to come out of the pot, which is a good sign. I'm running an aeroponics system. I haven't messed with the ph yet. It's steady between 6%. Here are some pics at one week. I also have three in soil. This won't be an issue will it?


Those plants look healthy, soil ph should be around 6.8 if I remember right, your aero system would be run at 5.8. 
You may see above ground growth slow for a while ubtil your plants fill the pot with roots, those look like about 3 gallon pots. After that the will take off and catch up so its not a big problem, an extra week should do it. Your planning on using these as the mothers? VV


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## TheClouds (Dec 30, 2008)

is it better for the plants to pluck fan leafs? im in my forth week of flower and it dnt look like its growin quick enough. its a pretty site but it just seems a lil off.


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## GypsyBush (Dec 30, 2008)

potroast said:


> Every 4 hours is good, but the 15 minutes is not needed. It's best to flood to max level and drain. With a loose particle medium like growrocks you just need to wet and re-aerate.
> 
> HTH


Thanks!

Will it hurt anything to flood for 15 min.? I do have an airstone in the res...

I got to get a better timer.. I am using the cheapo plastic ones with the little green and red ticks....

Thanks Again!! I appreciate all your help!



TheClouds said:


> is it better for the plants to pluck fan leafs? im in my forth week of flower and it dnt look like its growin quick enough. its a pretty site but it just seems a lil off.


Here is a quote from another post...



shanne1020 said:


> My little lady is starting to make some bud. Does anyone ever cut off the lower leaves? Will that hurt anything? My reason for asking... I was just curious if the lower parts of my plant would benifit with more light if I trimmed her down.





GypsyBush said:


> Leaves turn light into food... take away the leaves.. take away the food...
> 
> Add more light.... side lights... whatever you can do to avoid cutting leaves...
> 
> but if you feel you must..





runsfromdacops said:


> couldnt have said it better myslef. if the leaves are healthy leave them. use some lst if you think it will help


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## TheClouds (Dec 30, 2008)

Thanx mucho.. it also seems like im not gettin enough growth. im in my forth week of flower.... any pointers?


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## lorenzo08 (Dec 30, 2008)

> Leaves turn light into food... take away the leaves.. take away the food...
> _
> Add more light.... side lights... whatever you can do to avoid cutting leaves...
> 
> but if you feel you must.._


this is a matter of opinion and technic. more light is always good, so it does hold true, but many books say to trim the lower branches to allow better air circulation and focus the plant more on the parts that will produce bud. in either case, don't trim to much.


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## TheClouds (Dec 30, 2008)

i'm add'n my 3 parts plus cal-mag and nutes. but it looks short for it being in the 4th week of flower.


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## czogbe (Dec 31, 2008)

Thanks for the help VV. 
Big up!


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## testoftime (Jan 1, 2009)

HELP! my plants are dying off fast. I tink I have a major problem with algae. And now that i have covered the tops of the cubes it seems that mold or mildew is present. I am doing a ebb and flow using dutch trays and a 1,000 watt light. Slow growth nutes are at 850 ph is 5.8. I was over watering corrected that and now I think this algae is killing them off! what can I do to get rid of the algae?


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## VictorVIcious (Jan 1, 2009)

Use hydrogen peroxide in your res. If you can get the 50% agricultural grade its 1 ml/ liter. VV


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## GypsyBush (Jan 1, 2009)

lorenzo08 said:


> this is a matter of opinion and technic. more light is always good, so it does hold true, but many books say to trim the lower branches to allow better air circulation and focus the plant more on the parts that will produce bud. in either case, don't trim to much.


Trimming/pruning certainly has it's place... but you gotta be careful...


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## testoftime (Jan 1, 2009)

thanxs vv I am going to try that


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## DirtySanchez83 (Jan 3, 2009)

i have a question about nutrient solutions... i have the GH 3 part series (grow, micro, and bloom), what do the numbers on the bottle mean? (Example: florabloom is 0 - 5 - 4 ) Also, do i use all three of them at once, or only mix two, or should i just use one at a time. please help me. i'm new to this. i literally just started growing about 2 weeks ago. Never done it before. i got me some white widow seeds and i'd hate to f*ck it all up. oh yeah and can somebody explain the lucas method (i think that's what it's called). your help will be greatly appreciated.... thanks people.


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## LightFusion (Jan 3, 2009)

QUESTION.

how do you guys add nutes to your dwc

i was thinking changing the pure water out with pre-mixed nute solution but i read earlier in this thread that you could go a hole grow without changing the water

wouldn't it be bad just to dump it into the res? I was thinking it would burn the plants before it mixes

I'm gona use cn17 grow/bloom (liquid)

thanks in advance,


and to attempt a decent answer on the previous question, its the nitrogen / phosphorus/ ¿ potassium ? ratio of the nutes. it goes n/p/k , you want a high n for veg and high p for flowering

there should be a chart on the bottle telling you how to use them, start with all grow, transition all to bloom


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## whysohigh (Jan 5, 2009)

lets say you lose power during a storm or something, how long can the plants go in a hydro set up before serious damage is done?


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## marksk85 (Jan 5, 2009)

it depends on the setup i have a dwc and i got a 4 hour air pump power supply from the pet shop so if power failur happens im stilll safe


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## whysohigh (Jan 5, 2009)

but i just mean in general, lets say your about 6 weeks in veg and the power gets knocked out, is it a matter of minutes or hours or what? the roots will still be in the water, but no water flow or air pump, how long untill they are fubar?


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## lorenzo08 (Jan 5, 2009)

DirtySanchez83 said:


> i have a question about nutrient solutions... i have the GH 3 part series (grow, micro, and bloom), what do the numbers on the bottle mean? (Example: florabloom is 0 - 5 - 4 ) Also, do i use all three of them at once, or only mix two, or should i just use one at a time. please help me. i'm new to this. i literally just started growing about 2 weeks ago. Never done it before. i got me some white widow seeds and i'd hate to f*ck it all up. oh yeah and can somebody explain the lucas method (i think that's what it's called). your help will be greatly appreciated.... thanks people.


I'll get you started. just do lost of reading, there is plenty of information online. the charts they give you on the bottles are for full strength nute solution. don't use full strength right off the bat, it will kill the plants. start off at 1/4 strength and work your way up from there. if the plants start to show damage from it being to strong, flush right away then dilute the solution so it's not so strong and try it again. I've used the lucas formula with good results from the start of my first grow. the theory is that floramicro has enough of the same nutes that are in floragrow, so the formula uses a little extra micro and no grow. one less bottle to buy and one less to measure and add to the mix.


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## GypsyBush (Jan 5, 2009)

whysohigh said:


> lets say you lose power during a storm or something, how long can the plants go in a hydro set up before serious damage is done?


I am doing a test right now...

I have 4 clones vegging in a DWC bucket...

So far it has been 3 days without bubbles and they are as healthy as can be...

I have heard hours will kill all every plant, but I am not seeing that at all...


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## whysohigh (Jan 5, 2009)

GypsyBush said:


> I am doing a test right now...
> 
> I have 4 clones vegging in a DWC bucket...
> 
> ...


alright bro keep us posted on what happens because ive heard so many different things.


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## GypsyBush (Jan 5, 2009)

whysohigh said:


> alright bro keep us posted on what happens because ive heard so many different things.


I wonder if they will make it to the 2 week res change....


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## Eharmony420 (Jan 5, 2009)

those are clones though, I wonder about plants.


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## GypsyBush (Jan 5, 2009)

Eharmony420 said:


> those are clones though, I wonder about plants.


I thought a rooted clone was a plant...?!?!


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## GypsyBush (Jan 5, 2009)

Eharmony420 said:


> those are clones though, I wonder about plants.





GypsyBush said:


> I thought a rooted clone was a plant...?!?!


Right?!?! am I going nucking futs here?

Potroast? anyone?...


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## whysohigh (Jan 5, 2009)

i knew what you ment, are the roots just sitting in still water or is there water flow to em?


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## GypsyBush (Jan 5, 2009)

just sitting in the res... no flow... no bubbles...just a container with Ph'd and nuted water...

First signs of trouble and I'll give them the air... but they are going strong with very white roots...

We'll see how long they go....


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## LightFusion (Jan 5, 2009)

hm. interesting. i wonder if the roots can get enough oxygen from the parts that are hanging above the water...


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## comadose (Jan 5, 2009)

I have a 1000 hps on a table with the potential to put 30 clones @ a time this is my first time growing hydroponically, Was wondering if someone could shed some light on using FOOD GRADE hydrogeyn peroxide for help with O2 or would I be better off using a fish tank pump with holes poked through the hoses to oxygenate the resivoir.
Any help with this matter would truely help I'm actually growing for someone who has a lic to grow the only problem is thy have had tried three times to get growing.... i mean it was bad ive been here three days and they are already twice the size they were when i got here. also is there any charts for using SENSI GROW ? thanks guys


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## comadose (Jan 5, 2009)

Can burning a propane torch at certain times help with plant growth at all and am trying to save a crop of about 6-8 plants left in a 30 plant table about 5x5 is the tie down method the best one to get the plantsd to cover as much of the table as possible?


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## SenseiGT (Jan 6, 2009)

I'm starting my first hydro grow, not a big one just two plants, im looking for some nutrients that are efficient and inexpensive. do GH Florabloom & Grow sound like a good simple choice?


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## lorenzo08 (Jan 6, 2009)

SenseiGT said:


> I'm starting my first hydro grow, not a big one just two plants, im looking for some nutrients that are efficient and inexpensive. do GH Florabloom & Grow sound like a good simple choice?


you'll need floramicro to go along with them, that's not one you can leave out. search the forum for the lucas formula. you can grow without floragrow. I have all 3 bottles, but I've used the lucas formula for my whole first grow with good results.


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## SenseiGT (Jan 6, 2009)

lorenzo08 said:


> you'll need floramicro to go along with them, that's not one you can leave out. search the forum for the lucas formula. you can grow without floragrow. I have all 3 bottles, but I've used the lucas formula for my whole first grow with good results.


So the Bloom, grow, and Micro? 

Lucas formula says to not even use grow, cos micro is enough N. 

So i should buyy Floramicro and bloom , yea?


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## VictorVIcious (Jan 6, 2009)

comadose said:


> I have a 1000 hps on a table with the potential to put 30 clones @ a time this is my first time growing hydroponically, Was wondering if someone could shed some light on using FOOD GRADE hydrogeyn peroxide for help with O2 or would I be better off using a fish tank pump with holes poked through the hoses to oxygenate the resivoir.
> Any help with this matter would truely help I'm actually growing for someone who has a lic to grow the only problem is thy have had tried three times to get growing.... i mean it was bad ive been here three days and they are already twice the size they were when i got here. also is there any charts for using SENSI GROW ? thanks guys


Well....Agricultural grade h2o2 is 50%, I think food grade is 35%. The main reason for using h2os if to control pathogens in your res. It does add a liitle oxgen in the process. If you are using organic nutes it will kill them too. Air pumps and air stones are not expensive, I use a double air pump and 2 air stones in my reses and skip the h2o2. Water temperature has more of an effect on the amount of dissolved oxygen that stays in the water than any introduction of h2o2 will have. 65 degree water will hold tww=ice as much do as 70 degree water will. 
Sorry, not familiar with Sensi Grow. VV


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## growinman (Jan 7, 2009)

Hey there *Potroast*, how is everything going?
Everything here has been rocking pretty good in the AF. I am noticing an arrising problem on the girls I have in week 6 of 12/12. Maybe you or somebody can help out? Here's a pic......






I am using Canna Aqua by the book w/ cannazime, rhizotonic, boost, and I only used the pk13/14 in week 4 when the buds first started......but I am where I think I should be with the nutes right now?---> and working my way down from 900ppm.
I had a good case of nute burn a couple of weeks ago, flushed and seemed to come back fine.
Now these upper leafs are looking to be Molybdenum def----and it's odd because it's just these plants in the middle section of the AF20 and when this happened one year outside the leafs curled up......
Ph has been very stable 5.7-5.8........ Should I increase it to 5.9-6.0 to better absorb Mo?
Any ideas??
Everything else in room is stable:
temps lights on are 77-80, light off 67-70
RH is pretty consistant around 50%
The AF has 2 600's a good 18+" above plants
Good air exchange: 400+-c.f. w/240cfm running about 50%

System is AF20 aero/nft
res temp a bit high at 70-72
ppm is currently just below 900ppm

I appreciate any help or ideas......I think these will finish just fine but dont want it next time around.

Thanks very much!!
growinman


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## Mendo Friendo (Jan 7, 2009)

Alright... I'm new to this site so bear with me.. I've got twenty eight urkels under six 600w hps. Doing an ebb and flow using rockwool(4 inch blocks cut into 6 inch blocks). Good ventilation... Two 8 inch cans 1 in/1 out with filters... Using Cutting Edge nutes at 3/4 strength. Flooding the tables once a day(about 2 to 3 inches up the side of the block) right when the lights turn on. Everthing looked fine until about a week into my 12/12 light cycle. I thought it looked like I was burning them with the nutes a little(yellow tips on the new growth), so I flushed with 1/4 strength nutes for a week before returning to the regular flowering nutrient regimen. They have progressively gotten worse since. ALL the big fan leaves are dying super fast... Turning yellow and purple with brown spots. I'm now three full weeks into flower and I need to know WTF I can do to fix this fast. I'll try and put some pics up... HEEEEEELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## growinman (Jan 7, 2009)

*Mendo*, looks similar to my problem in previous post.........yours a bit more purple...
Did you give any veg nute after going 12/12? That's the only thing I did different with this grow: I just went straight bloom nute from day 1, 12/12..........well, other than the FACT this is my first hydro grow haha
I 've been reading up on N def in early fowering and it can end up being like these are. And mine are more yellow than yours, but other than that they have the red veins and purpleish tints in the leafs.........


Dr Potroast????


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## potroast (Jan 7, 2009)

Hi guys. It looks like growinman may have a problem, but it probably is normal late flowering fading. You usually see this starting in week 7 or 8, and from the looks of your buds after 6 weeks, they may be finished by week 8 or 9. I would let it ride and see how they come out. Your op sounds like everything is finely tuned, so have a good harvest.

Now mendo definitely has a problem, on Day 21 and buds just forming. That looks like nute burn, and like you said, you noticed it and corrected the problem. But the damage done will not change, those leaves will not recover. What you have to look at is the foliage that wasn't damaged, is it continuing to change also. Are you using the suggested supplements with the basic nutes? The Uncle John's Blend is an important additive in that regimen. I talked with John, the designer of those nutes, several years ago, and he is a very smart guy. You should try calling the Cutting Edge tech support, they will help you.

HTH


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## Mendo Friendo (Jan 8, 2009)

potroast said:


> Hi guys. It looks like growinman may have a problem, but it probably is normal late flowering fading. You usually see this starting in week 7 or 8, and from the looks of your buds after 6 weeks, they may be finished by week 8 or 9. I would let it ride and see how they come out. Your op sounds like everything is finely tuned, so have a good harvest.
> 
> Now mendo definitely has a problem, on Day 21 and buds just forming. That looks like nute burn, and like you said, you noticed it and corrected the problem. But the damage done will not change, those leaves will not recover. What you have to look at is the foliage that wasn't damaged, is it continuing to change also. Are you using the suggested supplements with the basic nutes? The Uncle John's Blend is an important additive in that regimen. I talked with John, the designer of those nutes, several years ago, and he is a very smart guy. You should try calling the Cutting Edge tech support, they will help you.
> 
> HTH


This is all in the last couple of days. I actually top fed with very light nutes to flush down any collected salts. Then 5 or 6 days of light nutes through the flooding method. I started all this at first sight of those discolored leaves at the very bottom of the plant. I'm 2 days back on the 3/4 nute mix and STILL new discolored leaves every day. I was removing some of the worst ones but it's picking up so fast I dont want to strip the plant of all its fan leaves. All that you see in those pics was green three days ago! My res temp is regulated at 61 degrees. The room is 78-80 lights on, 63-65 lights off. I'm following the nute schedule exactly as specified. Mixing thirty gallons worth in forty gallons of water. I have an airator and a stir pump... I will call the CES techs though. Good idea


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## lorenzo08 (Jan 8, 2009)

Mendo Friendo said:


> This is all in the last couple of days. I actually top fed with very light nutes to flush down any collected salts. Then 5 or 6 days of light nutes through the flooding method. I started all this at first sight of those discolored leaves at the very bottom of the plant. I'm 2 days back on the 3/4 nute mix and STILL new discolored leaves every day. I was removing some of the worst ones but it's picking up so fast I dont want to strip the plant of all its fan leaves. All that you see in those pics was green three days ago! My res temp is regulated at 61 degrees. The room is 78-80 lights on, 63-65 lights off. I'm following the nute schedule exactly as specified. Mixing thirty gallons worth in forty gallons of water. I have an airator and a stir pump... I will call the CES techs though. Good idea


what is the ph of the water?


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## Mendo Friendo (Jan 8, 2009)

I PH it every day before it runs. I keep it between 5.8 and 6.0 ALL THE TIME! I'm totally aware how important the PH is to a system. Does any one think it could be a deficiency? Like I over compensated for a little bit of burn with too much flush? Or some kind of nutrient lockout? Rootbound maybe? I can still see a little rockwool through the roots on the bottom of the blocks. In addition to the fan leaves turning pre-maturely the buds seen small and slow to grow. Should I remove all the spent leaves or would that be too much of a shock to them. This is the second time I have grown this exact strain with an ebb and flow. The only differences are the temp; It was during the summer and alot hotter(90 to 100!) The nutes; I was using GH instead of CES. And the location; Could the water be shit where I'm at now? I let it set and stir for 24 hrs before adding any nutes or applying it. The first time it came out great despite the heat. I sure appretiate the help. This site is great.


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## slyone824 (Jan 8, 2009)

i'm on my first hydro grow....i did outdoors for the past four years, but i'm starting to encounter slight problems with hydro. I bought a turn key hydro system (bc northernlights producer) and i'm using fox farm nutrients along with superthive, cal/mag, hygrozyme, and dark energy. I'm having problems with the one nutrient disolving in the water (fox's big bloom). It's a drip system and the pump only kicks on twice a day for five min. and because of the water sitting in the air bubbles the nutrients fall to the bottom of the reservor. Is this a common problem? Should i change nutrients or is there a better way of mixing?


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## UberGrowMeister (Jan 8, 2009)

MENDO


READ THIS BRO. http://www.marijuana-seeds.net/Thanks-ThankYou.htm

EDIT: From that link could it be a Magnesium deficiency, (do you live in a very hard water area/?) Check online IE: google, Do i live in a hard water area.....If it is Magnesium or indeed, Potassium the link will advise you...

I would dredge the net till I found the exact same condition then follow advice...


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## Mendo Friendo (Jan 8, 2009)

Thanx Uber... That gave me some ideas anyway. I just cant understand how It went so wrong using only 3/4 strength nutes. The guys at the shop told me they use it at full strength with no similar problems. I couldn't be any more by-the-book with this run... I just hope I'm able to work this out.


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## superz (Jan 11, 2009)

I am currently growing with a top feed spaghetti line hydroponic system. My plants have gotten too big and I have to move them into a bigger tray. I was wondering if I'm able to go to a flood and drain system from a top feed. Would this be too much stress on the plants, or will they adapt?


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## potroast (Jan 11, 2009)

As long as you don't let the roots dry out for any amount of time, your plants should be fine. Once roots get established, it always best to leave them alone, but if you have to move them to a different system, or bigger pot, they will adapt and continue to grow. You must allow some time for that to happen, and the plant will recover.

HTH


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## Maggie (Jan 11, 2009)

I have thrips and I heard that I can use nematodes to get rid of them. Can I when I am in hydro? Does this work?


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## vantheman169 (Jan 11, 2009)

Maggie said:


> I have thrips and I heard that I can use nematodes to get rid of them. Can I when I am in hydro? Does this work?




You can use neem oil it works great for many types of bugs and its non toxic to your plants.


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## lorenzo08 (Jan 12, 2009)

I've been noticing small black spiders in my room. I've flushed 2 so far. anything I should worry about? don't see any webs or plant damage yet.


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## myfriendMJ (Jan 12, 2009)

im getting a missing security token when i try to upload pictures from my computer.. does anyone know why?


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## potroast (Jan 12, 2009)

lorenzo08 said:


> I've been noticing small black spiders in my room. I've flushed 2 so far. anything I should worry about? don't see any webs or plant damage yet.



How small are they? If they are just spiders, they won't hurt your plants. If they are mite-sized, then you'll have to jump into action.

HTH


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## myfriendMJ (Jan 13, 2009)

hey can you help me with some insight? i borrowed an aerogarden from work just to experiment. Bought some seeds from Nirvana ( Medusa, and ppp) and went about cultivating. i have some pics. would like some advice. are using the CFLs for now but i have a 1000w hps with ballast i was to use for flowering. Im at veg day 18. can i start to flower soon? this thread site is amazing lots of good people with good info. thanks for your time.


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## lorenzo08 (Jan 13, 2009)

myfriendMJ said:


> hey can you help me with some insight? i borrowed an aerogarden from work just to experiment. Bought some seeds from Nirvana ( Medusa, and ppp) and went about cultivating. i have some pics. would like some advice. are using the CFLs for now but i have a 1000w hps with ballast i was to use for flowering. Im at veg day 18. can i start to flower soon? this thread site is amazing lots of good people with good info. thanks for your time.


a 1000 watt hps for those few plants? guess you're expecting really nice results with that much light. I would wait until they are at least 12 inches tall to flower them. they will about double in size in the first 2 weeks of flowering, so be ready for that.


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## myfriendMJ (Jan 13, 2009)

Lorenzo08

yeah its all i had access to at the time. i started to prune a little of the bottom fan leaves because they were being light blocked and one set of bottom nodes per plant to encourage upward growth. im going to buy a portable closet to grow in. i was reading on nutes the other day and i was curious about flowering nutrients or bloom enhancers.. do you have experience with these and/or your success?


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## lorenzo08 (Jan 13, 2009)

myfriendMJ said:


> Lorenzo08
> 
> yeah its all i had access to at the time. i started to prune a little of the bottom fan leaves because they were being light blocked and one set of bottom nodes per plant to encourage upward growth. im going to buy a portable closet to grow in. i was reading on nutes the other day and i was curious about flowering nutrients or bloom enhancers.. do you have experience with these and/or your success?


I've only heard a little about bloom enhancers. I'd love to try them some time, but they can be a little pricey. for my day to day growing, I use general hydroponics floramicro and florabloom in the lucas formula, and add vitamin B1 to help speed up growth a little. anyone else use bloom enhancers?


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## Matty10 (Jan 14, 2009)

HELP

So I thought I was ready to start growing, but apparently I need something called a TDS tester. When I was asking the hydro shop guy about it he did not explain it very well. What does it do? Do I need one? He said that I need to keep the # constant, between 500 AND 2000. What does that mean? How do I know what # to keep my plants at?

I NEED HELP, PLEASE!!!

Matt


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## lorenzo08 (Jan 15, 2009)

Matty10 said:


> HELP
> 
> So I thought I was ready to start growing, but apparently I need something called a TDS tester. When I was asking the hydro shop guy about it he did not explain it very well. What does it do? Do I need one? He said that I need to keep the # constant, between 500 AND 2000. What does that mean? How do I know what # to keep my plants at?
> 
> ...


read read read. a lot of good information out there on the inter web. TDS stands for total devolved solids. the amount of nutrients in the water. the number is in ppm, parts per million. to little and you'll starve the plants. to much and you'll lock out some nutes and the roots wont absorb them and starve too. also, ph is very important. keep it between 5.6 and 5.8. ppm starts out as plain tap water the first week from seed, then slowly increase it every week or 2 until you're somewhere around 1000 to 1200. some people go even higher. try the lucas formula if you're using general hydroponics nutes, search the forum for it.


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## noriega (Jan 16, 2009)

I don't remember much but I will never forget taking a friend to the hydro store for the first time. We walked in to see two guys that looked like that just came home from snowboarding with like a 1000 dollars worth of shit under there arms. We looked at each other and just smiled. Anyway back to the story, he ended up buy a boxed system called the Mega Garden system for way to much money. A couple hundred bucks I think. Maybe more. Now I get most of my stuff from home supply stores. I run ebb/flow and other than nuts, the only thing I really buy are the flood and drain fittings and hydroton. I buy the res and tray at any home supply store and then I buy some plastic spray paint and spray the outside bottom of the tray and the entire outside of the res. Painting them prevents light from growing funky things. I'm trying out a air stone in my tray that comes on with the pump. I want to see if there are any significant changes. Will see.


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## gvega187 (Jan 16, 2009)

RANDOM QUESTION FOR YOU GUYS.. cant find quik answer:

1) Never done a drip system b4, how often do I need to drip and for how long? Currently I have it set for 5 mins every 3-4 hours just like my flood table. 

using hydroton only in coir starter cubes not RW. 

THANKS ROAST AND FRIENDS


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## Matty10 (Jan 16, 2009)

Hey PotRoast I started my own thread. It is called First Time Growing... I posted about my nuets. I was given nuets and was not sure as to whether or not I had everything or not. I posted pics of all the nuets I have and I have asked everyone as to whether or not I have everything I need or not.

EVERYONE PLEASE CHECK OUT MY THREAD: it is called "First Time Growing..."
I can use everyone's input.

Thank You

Matt


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## jonnyseed (Jan 18, 2009)

does the pump run constantly on dwc setup


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## potroast (Jan 19, 2009)

Yes, on passive systems like dwc with an air pump or other pump roiling the surface to keep the nute solution moving around and aerated, the pump runs 24/7.

For drip systems, many run 24/7, especially when using a large-particle aggregate, like hydroton.

HTH


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## word420 (Jan 19, 2009)

i want to do a hydro system or ebb and flow with 1 gallon pots of soil. anyone know what level ph it shoudl be at?


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## lorenzo08 (Jan 19, 2009)

word420 said:


> i want to do a hydro system or ebb and flow with 1 gallon pots of soil. anyone know what level ph it shoudl be at?


you can't use soil with hydroponics. it has to be something that drains water quickly and wont soak it up.

5.6-5.9 ph should be good


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## word420 (Jan 19, 2009)

lorenzo08 then if the my water and nute is soaked into the soil then i can just water it less than?


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## word420 (Jan 19, 2009)

like just put the timer on for less time and only like twice a day?


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## lorenzo08 (Jan 19, 2009)

word420 said:


> lorenzo08 then if the my water and nute is soaked into the soil then i can just water it less than?


are you doing hydroponics or soil? they are like black and white, 2 different things. soil only gets watered every few days or whenever, by hand or with an automatic watering system. hydroponic gets watered automatically a few times a day and doesn't use any dirt.


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## word420 (Jan 19, 2009)

but its a soil-less kind of soil... it works just the same ive been doing for a few grows now. i put my 1 gallon pots of soil in a 4x4 tray and i have a 40 gallon res on the bottom of it. i give it 1 feeding a day for first 2 weeks of flowering after that i give 2 feedings but i never did ph though my mentor told me i didnt need to in my area. but im not sure no more. im just wonder what ph should it be because i know dirt and hydro are different. i use the sunsshine mix#4


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## GypsyBush (Jan 19, 2009)

Potroast... Lorenzo... VV.. calling all the big dogs....

Gypsy needs some brains on his team... the 2x4s are winning...!!!!

What is the best way to set up these lights and ebb/flow trays ???

Thanks guys...

Gypsy...


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## lorenzo08 (Jan 19, 2009)

word420 said:


> but its a soil-less kind of soil... it works just the same ive been doing for a few grows now. i put my 1 gallon pots of soil in a 4x4 tray and i have a 40 gallon res on the bottom of it. i give it 1 feeding a day for first 2 weeks of flowering after that i give 2 feedings but i never did ph though my mentor told me i didnt need to in my area. but im not sure no more. im just wonder what ph should it be because i know dirt and hydro are different. i use the sunsshine mix#4


you should always keep an eye on ph, especially in hydroponics. if you see problems showing up on the leaves, ph is the first thing you check.


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## word420 (Jan 19, 2009)

ty lorenzo. so my ph should be 5.6- 5.9 i think u worte?


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## lorenzo08 (Jan 20, 2009)

what does the claw mean? what could the problem be if the lower leaves are slowly turning a solid yellow over the whole leaf? they are about 3 weeks old in ebb and flow. could I be watering to often? I moved my hps light up a little higher, and tested the temp with a glass of water and a thermometer sitting in with the plants. it said 72~73F. it's about 82F near the ceiling, so I think the temperatures are ok. I'm watering every hour and a half and using fish tank stone for a medium. should I slow it down to every 2 hours or 2 and a half hours? I don't want the roots to dry out to much and cause problems.


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## chucktownskunk (Jan 20, 2009)

is this the right forum for ebb and flo i have a few questions if it is


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## donedolla (Jan 20, 2009)

anyone know if i can use TOP FIN PH DECREASE TO LOWER PH 

cheers.

also any good cheap tds meters i can buy online in canada.


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## Mendo Friendo (Jan 20, 2009)

Lorenz... What are you growing in? Rockwool, Coir? Got a ppm meter? I was having the same symptoms and it turned out I wasn't giving enough nutes cause I freaked out about a little burn. Over compensated, ya know? I'm in rockwool though so I only flood twice a day. Anyway, I stopped the flush and went back to 3/4 strength and the yellowing stopped. The yellow leaves will not recover however. I just pick them when they look spent.


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## Mendo Friendo (Jan 20, 2009)

I might be able to help, Chuck.


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## Matty10 (Jan 21, 2009)

HELP ASAP!!!

Ok my friend who knows that I am about to start my first grow just showed up like 2 hrs. ago with 4 clones from a co-op. I need to know if I should put them under the light right now @12:25am? Because I really wanted the light off between 12am - 6am and on during the day from 6am - 12am. I am unsure if I put them under light now do I have to continue giving light during those times or can I wait until 6am before giving the plants any light.

Thank You

Matt


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## MrJDGaF (Jan 21, 2009)

chucktownskunk said:


> is this the right forum for ebb and flo i have a few questions if it is


Yes it is, fire away.



donedolla said:


> anyone know if i can use TOP FIN PH DECREASE TO LOWER PH
> 
> cheers.


Yes you can.


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## chucktownskunk (Jan 21, 2009)

sweet here i go i have some 3 ft plants in a 3x3 ebb and flo i try to keep the ph at 5.8 to 6.0 and i just boosted the ppm to 1200 and the water is at 66F i am 5 weeks into flower and i am using florabloom nutes and just got some botanicare sweet for a carb blast and i use sea blast for a little nitro but the large fan leaves are turning yellow? my questionn is is it from the 1k hps light that is 1ft away or a nute lock or just the flowering stage?


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## gvega187 (Jan 21, 2009)

1 foot should be fine for the 1k if it is vented properly.


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## gvega187 (Jan 21, 2009)

flowering state will not cause yellowing fan leaves up top until about week 6 or 6.5 earliest.


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## chucktownskunk (Jan 21, 2009)

yea i know but the leaves under the light look like that


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## gvega187 (Jan 21, 2009)

ok i try this again,

1 question to save them all:

say you have a flood table. Using 5x5" sqr containers. Medium=pebbles only.


HOW LONG CAN I ALLOW THE PUMP TO BE OFF FOR? WHEN THE ARE FRESHLY TRANSPLANTED IS THIS DIFFERENT TIMING? 

temp= 70-80F humidity = norms

thank you all and please consider my question.


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## potroast (Jan 22, 2009)

gvega, the easiest way for you to know the answer is for you to see it. Take a pot and fill it with rocks, and water it. Then wait for a while and dig down in the rocks and take note of the wetness. Wait a while and repeat. You'll find that the rocks will hold some water, and get an idea about how long it takes to dry out.

Chucktown, what is florabloom nutes? If it's the Flora series by GH, then you should be using the Micro too, at least. If it's FloraNova Bloom, I'm finding that it has a need for more N too. What water are you starting with? And what strain are you growing, and how long to maturity? Also, 1 foot is too close for a 1000w.

HTH


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## gvega187 (Jan 22, 2009)

i agree that 1 foot may be to close, especially if your ambient temperature is rediculous high and you are venting with room temp air. I have had no trouble with floranova bloom in the past. My last harvest finished with many extremely dark green leaves almost indicative of nitrogen toxicity. I highly recommend the floranova series. 

potroast how do I tell if a pebble is suffuciently wet? If it appears damp then that is a'ok for roots?


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## chucktownskunk (Jan 22, 2009)

this is my third grow with the floranova series and i am running cooltubes out the room and the temp in the room is 75 77F


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## gvega187 (Jan 22, 2009)

still...try 1.5 feet at least. 1000 wats can be 2 feet away from plants and sitll provide significant lumenage. do u need a chart 2 prove it?


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## chucktownskunk (Jan 22, 2009)

nope i have that but the plant is at the max capacity ant the light is all the way up i cant move anything anymore


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## chucktownskunk (Jan 22, 2009)

i have a 400mh that i can put on it to finish it off but everyone here will probably say im an idiot to stop a 1k and put up a 400 mh


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## gvega187 (Jan 22, 2009)

well if it saves your plants who cares what fuckers say. 

It ahs been recommended to me before that I point a fan at the 1' area you speak of.


...you could always cut a hole in your roof....lol...seriuosly thou I would go with teh 400 if burnination is unavoidable.


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## chucktownskunk (Jan 22, 2009)

i think i have a lock out or not enough in the ppm so i just did the clear x and flushed with that now i am about to put the ppm to 1500 and see how they role and i switched the timer to only water the plants for 15min every three hours like the guy at the hydrostore told me to do?


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## pitazio (Jan 24, 2009)

i have a rubbermaid container with a water pump running a little holes almost to the top i poked tiny holes for the water almost hit the net pot My question is how often i got to water the roots


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## matt7835706 (Jan 24, 2009)

Will someone help me out with my lighting question???? I need to know how tall to take my plants before kickin to flower, will the 250 watt hps be good enough for two 3 foot plants??? or what would be the max coverage??? thanks in advance


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## chucktownskunk (Jan 24, 2009)

matt it will only begood enough for the top of the plant but if you can get cfls around the sides of the plant to help it out alot


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## s3pug (Jan 26, 2009)

IVE FOUND OUT ABOUT A GROW CABINET @ http://www.supercloset.com/faq.html I DONT NO MUCH BOUT DEM AND DEY ARE QUITE DEAR CAN ANY BODY HELP


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## chucktownskunk (Jan 26, 2009)




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## s3pug (Jan 26, 2009)

Wat pic was you ment to upload


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## chucktownskunk (Jan 26, 2009)




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## chucktownskunk (Jan 26, 2009)

if you look the middle of the plant is yellowish and the tops are yellowish too the 1k light is a foot away


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## chucktownskunk (Jan 26, 2009)

thats two plants


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## chucktownskunk (Jan 26, 2009)

can i start taking out the fan leaves to let more light in they are 6 weeks into bloom


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## s3pug (Jan 26, 2009)

Dats realy nice so how many pots u got u got under dat light


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## chucktownskunk (Jan 26, 2009)




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## 100%HPNOTIQBOI (Jan 27, 2009)

HELLO I AM NEW AT GROWING 

I HAVE DONE MY RESEARCH TO FIND OUT AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE SO I CAN GROW SOME GOOD WEED

I WILL BE GETTING THE Bucketeer DWC Kit AND THE Dual Spectrum II High Output Fluorescent Light Kit FROM http://www.stealthhydroponics.com/index.php

WILL THOSE LIGHTS BE OK FOR GROWING MY PLANT?

I WILL BE GROWING JUST ONE BIG PLANT



















The dual spectrum II lighting system provides a monsterous 8400 lumens which supports both vegetative growth and flowering phases. At Stealth Hydro, we do as the name says, and stealth means low heat. Our lights produce the least amount of heat of any grow light system on the market today. This means you can place these lights into any small corner or stealthy closet without heat troubles that most other lighting systems have. Included are two rugged, fully assembled, completely wired, 11 inch rounded parabolic reflectors. No cheap bent, dangerously sharp, Aluminum slates here; just safe, no hassle equipment. Reflectors have EZ-hang loops to make mounting a breeze.


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## GypsyBush (Jan 27, 2009)

Potroast... your input is needed...



TOKEMASTERFLEX said:


> just depends on the strain....gdp takes 3000 no sweat...you will add more of the base nutes to get a higher ppm...all recomendations from any nute supplier is just that a recomendation or a starting point...if your plants are lookin really good up the dosage a little at a time then back off when you see nute burn...drop it just a little from that point and youll be good to go





GypsyBush said:


> Huh... I thought the best way to have them is *just above* a deficiency... as weak a solution as possible, without lacking anything...
> 
> I'll do some more research and check back with you guys...


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## 100%HPNOTIQBOI (Jan 27, 2009)

Can anyone tell me if those lights will be ok for growing my first plant?

Its just gonna b one plant and then if i do it right i will be growing more


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## techgrower (Jan 27, 2009)

Chuchtown- killer stalk on those-great job! What strain r those? It looks like you are thinking of going to a mh light? If you are that far into flower, going from hps to mh might hermie them -light stress. I had an outdoor female clone, early summer, that got to a foot and moved it inside to mh 400w aerogro bulb under 18/6 and she started flowering. changed to hps went back to vegg. I flowered her a month later at 23" and she hermie'd on me from light stress. just my .02. Is your reflector vented?

Edit: I was reading on uvb lighting and saw case studies that peeps who changed to MH light during last weeks of flower-Shows Mh light has greater uvb output which directly correlates to more trich production ie more thc. Just thought I would share this. I would just hate to see those beautiful plants turn hermie.


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## chucktownskunk (Jan 27, 2009)

yes its vented


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## jersey125 (Jan 28, 2009)

how many plants can you grow with a 400 watt bulb in a 2 by 4 tent?


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## WWgrower (Jan 28, 2009)

Potroast or anyone, can you give a little advise on combo in-tank continuous monitors. I read a post you contributed to saying you had the HANNA ph,tds model. You stated you were happy with the Hanna but the probe kept going bad with in a year or 6 months. Have you found a better unit? I am wanting to get a combo unit with PH, Temp and PPM. Hanna and Nutradip seem to have the best for what Iam interested in.I am trying to decide which one to get or if there is a better brand or model that can be recommended? Sense it is a somewhat large investment I don't want to get screwed on the wrong one. You have helped with advise before hope you can now. Thanks to anyone with help.


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## Mendo Friendo (Jan 30, 2009)

Just wanted to thank you guys that helped me earlier. Harvest was good and plentiful... This site is great!

Mendo


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## gvega187 (Jan 30, 2009)

soil does not taste better or make harder buds...lol i love it when ppl say that. Just get a good genetic and its all the same damnit.


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## comadose (Jan 30, 2009)

HAZEDAZE said:


> hey this site is great much thanks to all.i am used to being a dirt man myself but want to covert what is a good way to set up a hydro systeam i do understand the idea behind it just dont have the money to go for the high end stuff if u can explain a cheaper alternative i would be gratefull if the money is need explain about how much is a good starting amount with a list of main peices one more time thatnks in advance


 
think baby pool fish tank pump for air in the res and a wic ksystem setup on top. gotta love capillary action... pretty much the cheapest for the amount of plants you can grow with it


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## GypsyBush (Jan 30, 2009)

WWgrower said:


> Potroast or anyone, can you give a little advise on combo in-tank continuous monitors. I read a post you contributed to saying you had the HANNA ph,tds model. You stated you were happy with the Hanna but the probe kept going bad with in a year or 6 months. Have you found a better unit? I am wanting to get a combo unit with PH, Temp and PPM. Hanna and Nutradip seem to have the best for what Iam interested in.I am trying to decide which one to get or if there is a better brand or model that can be recommended? Sense it is a somewhat large investment I don't want to get screwed on the wrong one. You have helped with advise before hope you can now. Thanks to anyone with help.


 I have been using the Hanna Grocheck for about 6 months now and I love mine... this site has the best price I could find...

http://www.gchydro.com/HANNA+GroCheck+Combo+Meter+-+pH+&+TDS+Meter.html


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## WWgrower (Feb 1, 2009)

Thanks gypsybush, I read your post about this meter on another thread. I believe Potroast gave you advise on saving the probes. Have you noticed any ill effects to your probes after this amount of time. Also great price how much was your shipping. I'm thinking of the tri-meter for the res. temp. Thanks for your input.


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## GypsyBush (Feb 1, 2009)

WWgrower said:


> Thanks gypsybush,


Oh! You are very welcome, I am glad I could be pf help....



WWgrower said:


> I read your post about this meter on another thread. I believe Potroast gave you advise on saving the probes.


Yup yup! He said he keeps his probes in his to off tank (fresh pH'd water with NO NUTES) and they last longer...

He noticed a correlation between salt build up and probe failure...



WWgrower said:


> Have you noticed any ill effects to your probes after this amount of time.


No, and as a matter of fact I just calibrated it and it was still spot on....



WWgrower said:


> Also great price how much was your shipping.


ARGH! I hate saying it, but I paid almost double that locally.... but I guess I saved in shipping eh?!?!?!



WWgrower said:


> I'm thinking of the tri-meter for the res. temp. Thanks for your input.


I went with this one because a friend had been using a second hand one for years, and when it failed he went out and bought the same one... 

That was enough for me to make my choice...

Temp is nice... I just have an aquarium thermometer in there... but I never check it.... my res is always cool...

Best of luck...

Gypsy...


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## GypsyBush (Feb 1, 2009)

gvega187 said:


> soil does not taste better or make harder buds...lol i love it when ppl say that. Just get a good genetic and its all the same damnit.


On the same exact hydro set up... with the same light, nutes & environment...

One strain is dank, pungent, covered in glittery sugar and hard as a knuckle...

The other strain is pure hair... very light smell.. and while I am not going to tell you it was fluffy, I got 1.5 oz off 1 small plant, is was most certainly not as dense as my knuckles ...

Genetics.... then the environment... I really think that the feeding method has least of impacts...

But with that said...

If you grow some dank... in a special patch of dirt in the forest, where only the Fairies know the way (not in pots in a basement)... all organic compost...a sacred creek nearby... you may actually get Mother Nature to put an extra zing in there, that we cannot put in ourselves....

kinda like when they say Marinol is the exact chemical composition, but yet it lacks ... what is the word I am looking for... subtleties and quirks that can only be introduced in the natural world... and not in a lab...

Some might refer to that as soul.... while others cannot even understand what the hell we are actually talking about here....

...

Freaking Gypsies and their magik schpeals ....

What's next palm reading????

...

Anyways... Gvega... I'll have to agree with you... get good genetics and a real light for crying out loud...lol...


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## ilovekasey17 (Feb 2, 2009)

I'm completely new to the whole hydro deal. I've been doing some reading, so let me explain what I THINK I'm supposed to do and you guys let me know whether or not I'm right.


First, I cut 4 holes in the lid of my tub just big enough for the net pots. I get a dual air pump and two 12" airstones. I run the hoses through the tub and connect to the airstones at the bottom. I fill the tub full of water about 1/2 inch below the net pots.

Then, I fill the net pots with hydroton and place in the small plant in rockwool. I add the nutes, turn on the pump, and empty and repeat the filling step every 7-9 days.

I use 6500KCFLs for vegging and 2700K for flowering. 18/6 for vegging and 12/12 for flowering.


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## s3pug (Feb 2, 2009)

im just starting widow any special tips i should keep a eye out for good or bad???


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## knesldr (Feb 5, 2009)

Hi quick question, what is the difference from ebb flo and a regular hydro setup. THanks.


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## daydreamer419 (Feb 9, 2009)

Just putting finishing touches on a waterfarm 8 unit. I got the additional upgrade to make it circulate, but I don't see it doing much. If you are familiar with it, there is a separate air pump to aid in circulating the water to create similar conditions for all plants. Either way, should I get a more powerful air pump, or is there a trick that anyone knows to get it circulating better? 2nd question, do you add the nutes to the main reservoir or to the smaller nute resevoir? The name would make me think the Nute resevoir, but the dam heavy water res sits right on top. Makes it a pain LOL... Well any thoughts or advise is greatly appreciated! Thanks to everyone for a great community!


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## VictorVIcious (Feb 10, 2009)

ilovekasey17 said:


> > I'm completely new to the whole hydro deal. I've been doing some reading, so let me explain what I THINK I'm supposed to do and you guys let me know whether or not I'm right.
> >
> >
> > First, I cut 4 holes in the lid of my tub just big enough for the net pots. I get a dual air pump and two 12" airstones. I run the hoses through the tub and connect to the airstones at the bottom. I fill the tub full of water about 1/2 inch below the net pots.
> ...


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## VictorVIcious (Feb 10, 2009)

daydreamer419 said:


> Just putting finishing touches on a waterfarm 8 unit. I got the additional upgrade to make it circulate, but I don't see it doing much. If you are familiar with it, there is a separate air pump to aid in circulating the water to create similar conditions for all plants. Either way, should I get a more powerful air pump, or is there a trick that anyone knows to get it circulating better? 2nd question, do you add the nutes to the main reservoir or to the smaller nute resevoir? The name would make me think the Nute resevoir, but the dam heavy water res sits right on top. Makes it a pain LOL... Well any thoughts or advise is greatly appreciated! Thanks to everyone for a great community!


Well.... it's not a nute reservoir it is a control unit. You add the nutes to the main reservoir because that is the storage unit. The control unit manages the water levels to the individual pots. The air pump that comes with it should be sufficient unless you have some line restrictions that are affecting its operation. A lot more water than you think may be flowing out of the drip ring? VV



> s3pug im just starting widow any special tips i should keep a eye out for good or bad???


Welcome s3, special tip is read the first few pages of this thread. Widow explains all of the hydro systems and which medium you would want to use with each of the different system. VV



> knesldr *ebb flo*
> Hi quick question, what is the difference from ebb flo and a regular hydro setup. THanks.


Uhhh... no, ebb and flow is a regular hydro system. It is just one of them. Some refer to flood and drain as ebb and flow, you also have Deep Water Culture (DWC), Aero, and Nutrient Film Technique (NFT), Fogponics, and the wick system. Which regular hydro did you mean? VV


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## lorenzo08 (Feb 10, 2009)

knesldr said:


> Hi quick question, what is the difference from ebb flo and a regular hydro setup. THanks.


hydroponics means to grow without soil. you use either inert grow media or just let the roots hang in air or water. there are different technique of doing hydroponics. do some reading, plenty to learn.


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## daydreamer419 (Feb 10, 2009)

VictorVIcious said:


> Well.... it's not a nute reservoir it is a control unit. You add the nutes to the main reservoir because that is the storage unit. The control unit manages the water levels to the individual pots. The air pump that comes with it should be sufficient unless you have some line restrictions that are affecting its operation. A lot more water than you think may be flowing out of the drip ring? VV


Thank you kindly for the info! I will make the appropriate adjustments and that does explain a lot.


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## VictorVIcious (Feb 10, 2009)

http://www.aquahub.com/store/media/EbbandFlowControlInstruxCompressed.pdf
Here is a link that explains the operation of an ebb and flow system, not sure if your is the same, never looked at that Particular system that close. VV


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## daydreamer419 (Feb 10, 2009)

Just transplanted these seedlings to my waterfarm. What type of water cycle do you suggest I set my timer for? Running low nutes and water about 5.5-5.9. I am constantly monitoring it because it changes often. Your thoughts? Currently it is on 1 hr on, 1 hr off. Thanks!


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## VictorVIcious (Feb 10, 2009)

daydreamer419 said:


> Just transplanted these seedlings to my waterfarm. What type of water cycle do you suggest I set my timer for? Running low nutes and water about 5.5-5.9. I am constantly monitoring it because it changes often. Your thoughts? Currently it is on 1 hr on, 1 hr off. Thanks!


Sorry, you have some serious issues, those seedling are stretched. It looks like you have them in Rapid Rooters, I hope you have roots out the bottom. You are going to need to prop them up, skewers work, a straw slit to accommodate the stem may be used also. Whatever light you are using needs to be closer than it is now.
If I remember right I ran 1 hour on 2 off with the aero-cloners, I did not do seeds in them, only clones. 
If you have already transferred them into the hydroton in the water farm watch closely for wilt until the roots get down into their new home, you may have to top water the Rapid rooter a time or two depending on the root development you have. 
The color indicates a complete lack of light so far and the stretching confirms it. They can be saved, you will have to learn fast, I think you can do it. 
The ring shaped drip system is what I have seen recommended for this medium, maximum air to the roots, water will flow down all thru the medium. Recommended timing that I have read for that medium is about 4 times a day for 15 minutes during lights on. Watch your water temps closely, if the thermometer in the picture is you water temp, its fine for right now, don't let it get any higher. If that's the room temp its too cool for your seedlings around 78f is ideal, rh around 45% would be great.
So, lets discuss those lights. Start a journal and send me a link, you have invested some bucks here, and your seeds are above ground, these are all positives. Let's see if we can get your grow 'in balance'. VV


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## daydreamer419 (Feb 10, 2009)

VictorVIcious said:


> Sorry, you have some serious issues, those seedling are stretched. It looks like you have them in Rapid Rooters, I hope you have roots out the bottom. You are going to need to prop them up, skewers work, a straw slit to accommodate the stem may be used also. Whatever light you are using needs to be closer than it is now.
> If I remember right I ran 1 hour on 2 off with the aero-cloners, I did not do seeds in them, only clones.
> If you have already transferred them into the hydroton in the water farm watch closely for wilt until the roots get down into their new home, you may have to top water the Rapid rooter a time or two depending on the root development you have.
> The color indicates a complete lack of light so far and the stretching confirms it. They can be saved, you will have to learn fast, I think you can do it.
> ...


Ok buddy, I am all ears and the journal has been started. Please take a look. Anybody welcome to have a look and throw in their 2 cents.. I hope my signature will link to it. Thank you in advance!! My plants thank you too!!!


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## whysohigh (Feb 10, 2009)

GypsyBush said:


> just sitting in the res... no flow... no bubbles...just a container with Ph'd and nuted water...
> 
> First signs of trouble and I'll give them the air... but they are going strong with very white roots...
> 
> We'll see how long they go....


what ever happened to the plants you cut off the air to?


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## chucktownskunk (Feb 11, 2009)

a water farm is a drip system and the water should be running all the time while the lights on


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## daydreamer419 (Feb 11, 2009)

chucktownskunk said:


> a water farm is a drip system and the water should be running all the time while the lights on


With the plants as small as they are, do you think I should underwater them right now to create root growth. If you look at my journal, they are little guys and have suffered some issues from light being too far away from light in their early stages. Have you used a waterfarm before, or a drip system? Is that what you have done before with success? Thanks for the post!


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## chucktownskunk (Feb 11, 2009)

yes i have two of them but i use them for mothers and yes you can run it all the time just watch the nutes and get a root stimulator to promote root growth


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## widowtwanky (Feb 17, 2009)

does hydroponics give more ounce per plant
than a plant grown in soil


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## chucktownskunk (Feb 17, 2009)

i seem to think soo but everybody has there own opinions


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## whysohigh (Feb 17, 2009)

widowtwanky said:


> does hydroponics give more ounce per plant
> than a plant grown in soil



as far as i understand its just a faster way of growing, the plants yeild is in its genetics. if you have the time and room you can veg them for longer to make them get big before you flower to try to maximize your yeild, but im pretty sure no matter how you grow it, they have their yeild in their genes.


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## Bongmarley (Feb 18, 2009)

i bot a air pump and stone form walmart for 12 bux, a 15 qrt rubbermaid tub with a lid for 3 bux, and and it fits 9, 3" mesh pots in the top....simple! thiers you hydro kit under 20 bux, excluding lights and nutes


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## chucktownskunk (Feb 18, 2009)

can i foliar feed with cal/mag from botanicare for a mag def?


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## WeEdDeMoN (Feb 20, 2009)

whats the deal with h202 im hearing mixed opinions??? Go or No?


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## GypsyBush (Feb 20, 2009)

WeEdDeMoN said:


> whats the deal with h202 im hearing mixed opinions??? Go or No?


BIG NO NO in ORGANIC Hydro... otherwise, at the correct dosage, it will help prevent problems...


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## StinkyLeaf (Feb 20, 2009)

Hey gang! So....sorry to barge in here and everything but I have a question about hydroponics!

When you germinate or start from seeds in general, what is the best way to do it?

I know that when you use soil you germinate using, usually a damp paper towel and a warm spot in the house...but for hydro is it different?

I started with 3 seeds, two of them, I popped into cubes of rockwool, and the third...I germinated till the seed popped open, and then i put it into the rocwool along with the other two. I have been keeping those cubes in a small amount of distilled water ph5.5. The top has been kept loosly over it so that thehumidity is higher.........

The kicker is.....been a week and two days now and no sprouts! Im worried...did i do something wrong? Is this not the way to start seeds when using hydro?


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## chucktownskunk (Feb 20, 2009)

papertowel in a dark place...... wait til it pops out then rockwool lights heat roots nute grow!!!


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## StinkyLeaf (Feb 21, 2009)

chucktownskunk said:


> papertowel in a dark place...... wait til it pops out then rockwool lights heat roots nute grow!!!



so....does that mean that i should take out the two seeds that i didnt put in the paper towel to germinate, and try to germinate them now? 

have the seeds gone bad by now? can i save them? they were real good seeds, feminized....ide be sad if i wasted them


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## gvega187 (Feb 21, 2009)

StinkyLeaf said:


> Hey gang! So....sorry to barge in here and everything but I have a question about hydroponics!
> 
> When you germinate or start from seeds in general, what is the best way to do it?
> 
> ...



get starter cube (rock whool or rapid rooter) Wet the cubes with appropriate ph'd water (soil or hydro). Put in the seeds. Wait. 

Sounds like your doing a lot of unnecessary or othewise weird stuff. Just do those things and wait for them to pop out...takes very few ddays. 

that other guy is on crak and can not properly explain himself. I dunno how the sentence heat grow nutes is gonna help u...check out the FAQ sometime.


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## gvega187 (Feb 21, 2009)

starting from seed should not be difficult. Cloning is much harder for noobs. 

Make sure your using a heat mat, especially if your room temperatures are lower than 70ish


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## slyone824 (Feb 21, 2009)

i have a question and i can't figure out how to start a new post...i'm on my first indoor hydro grow. I grew outdoors several times so i have a little experience, but i have induced flowering 11 days ago and my snow white and ppp showed their sex after 3-4 days. The strain i'm waiting for is big bud to show and i'm getting annoyed because it's the tallest of the plants in the unit so it's taking up the most space. I was wondering if anyone had ever grown this strain before and has encounter this or if its unusual. the big bud seeds are from sensi seed bank. any info would be helpful...thanx


----------



## StinkyLeaf (Feb 21, 2009)

gvega187 said:


> starting from seed should not be difficult. Cloning is much harder for noobs.
> 
> Make sure your using a heat mat, especially if your room temperatures are lower than 70ish



Thanks  a lot


----------



## purplepro (Feb 22, 2009)

I have a random question. Has anyone tried SWEET&HEAVY nutes? If so do you have an opinion on how it compares to others u have tried?


----------



## chucktownskunk (Feb 22, 2009)

slyone824 said:


> i have a question and i can't figure out how to start a new post...i'm on my first indoor hydro grow. I grew outdoors several times so i have a little experience, but i have induced flowering 11 days ago and my snow white and ppp showed their sex after 3-4 days. The strain i'm waiting for is big bud to show and i'm getting annoyed because it's the tallest of the plants in the unit so it's taking up the most space. I was wondering if anyone had ever grown this strain before and has encounter this or if its unusual. the big bud seeds are from sensi seed bank. any info would be helpful...thanx


top the plant it should show its sex a couple days later


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## King B (Feb 22, 2009)

About what temp. should you keep your nuetrient solution for hydro?


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## whysohigh (Feb 23, 2009)

King B said:


> About what temp. should you keep your nuetrient solution for hydro?


 the water should be cold to the touch, once you start going up towards and over 75* you start running the risk of algae and other funk starting to grow. if your pump is on constantly like mine was untill i got a timer its going to raise the rez temp.


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## chucktownskunk (Feb 23, 2009)

i keep mine around 55-65F


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## mightyboogie (Feb 24, 2009)

hallo
my clones are 3 weeks old and they look like this:

























the water ph is 5.9-6.0.i use general hydroponics fertilizers.can someone tell me please why they are yellow?what should i do?


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## whysohigh (Feb 24, 2009)

mightyboogie said:


> hallo
> my clones are 3 weeks old and they look like this:
> 
> 
> ...


you shouldnt need any kind of neutrients or fertilizers when your trying to grow roots, just water with the right ph. when you dont give nutes you force the plant to grow roots to look for neutrients, when you add neuts your just keeping the clipping alive and not promoting root growth.


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## whysohigh (Feb 24, 2009)

sorry i didnt notice you said they were 3 weeks old, the yellowing could be a magnesium deficency check out these links i use to troubleshooting defiencys and such, 
http://www.greenmanspage.com/guides/plant_abuse.html

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688&page=1&pp=15

these links saved a crop or two good luck


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## chucktownskunk (Feb 24, 2009)

those clones need nutes put them in a hydro setup i see roots from here!! once clones have stable root system you can start feeding them!!


----------



## mightyboogie (Feb 24, 2009)

whysohigh said:


> sorry i didnt notice you said they were 3 weeks old, the yellowing could be a magnesium deficency check out these links i use to troubleshooting defiencys and such,
> http://www.greenmanspage.com/guides/plant_abuse.html
> 
> http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688&page=1&pp=15
> ...


 well i put in the water some nutes and some root stimulant.i ll use only clean water for now.tnx


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## big3491 (Feb 24, 2009)

ay wht up i just started 4 white widow plants n a hydro system one has sprouted 2 are starting and the fourth is nothing when should i start full on nutrients and fill the container up?


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## chucktownskunk (Feb 25, 2009)

start a 1/4 strength nutes when the sprouts have established a good root system!!


----------



## itisagift (Feb 25, 2009)

what is a good ph meter, i don't know what to go with


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## chucktownskunk (Feb 25, 2009)

get the trimeter expensive but worth it


----------



## angelherb (Feb 25, 2009)

hey i have a question how do you plant a plant in hydro like how do you start it i dont get were you would put the seed?


----------



## wannabee (Feb 25, 2009)

Bongmarley said:


> i bot a air pump and stone form walmart for 12 bux, a 15 qrt rubbermaid tub with a lid for 3 bux, and and it fits 9, 3" mesh pots in the top....simple! thiers you hydro kit under 20 bux, excluding lights and nutes


 
I've been thinking about doing this but it seems like there's something missing. Don't you need tubing set from the top of the baskets? 

Thanks, just curious...


----------



## big3491 (Feb 25, 2009)

how you tell if your plants are male or a beautiful female?


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## lorenzo08 (Feb 26, 2009)

big3491 said:


> how you tell if your plants are male or a beautiful female?


if she talks back to you then it's a female for sure


----------



## 1lid (Feb 26, 2009)

Thanks for info too!


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## whysohigh (Feb 26, 2009)

big3491 said:


> how you tell if your plants are male or a beautiful female?


usually you have to wait untill its close to flowering or sometimes a few days or so into flowering to be able to tell the sex, use a magnifying glass.


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## big3491 (Feb 26, 2009)

when you harvest from a plant is there any way to keep it alive for another batch


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## chucktownskunk (Feb 27, 2009)

angelherb said:


> hey i have a question how do you plant a plant in hydro like how do you start it i dont get were you would put the seed?


start in a papertowel until sprouted then transplant into rockwool put in a tray of water place on heating matt at 77F wait until roots show then into rocks and mesh pots!!


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## GypsyBush (Feb 27, 2009)

Hi Potroast...

Just wanted to swing by and thank you and everyone else for the GREAT help I have gotten from you guys...

I went from an Aerogarden in the nightstand to .. well take a look...

This is my SOG....lol...

And it is all thanks to ROLLITUP !!!!

























An Indica that made it's way in with the Sativas...







And the Veg area with the moms, clones and a few edibles...


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## angelherb (Feb 28, 2009)

how do you plant a seed in a hydroponic system


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## GypsyBush (Feb 28, 2009)

angelherb said:


> how do you plant a seed in a hydroponic system


You start by reading this... GrowFAQ 

That is your new best friend... spend lots of time getting acquainted...


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## Green Monster (Mar 2, 2009)

ok ive never grown hydro, just used dirt but i really want to learn how to make hydro.. i have like a plastic storage tote i can use... where can i get the plastic containers to hold the plant and what are the balls in there?.. and can i use just regular tap/rain water or does it HAVE to be mixed with toher things?


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## whysohigh (Mar 2, 2009)

Green Monster said:


> ok ive never grown hydro, just used dirt but i really want to learn how to make hydro.. i have like a plastic storage tote i can use... where can i get the plastic containers to hold the plant and what are the balls in there?.. and can i use just regular tap/rain water or does it HAVE to be mixed with toher things?


go to page 75 of this post, there are complete instructions along with parts list and a community of ppl that are using this flawless system good luck and welcome to the world of hydro
https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/116859-harvest-pound-every-three-weeks.html


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## GypsyBush (Mar 2, 2009)

Green Monster said:


> ok ive never grown hydro, just used dirt but i really want to learn how to make hydro.. i have like a plastic storage tote i can use... where can i get the plastic containers to hold the plant and what are the balls in there?.. and can i use just regular tap/rain water or does it HAVE to be mixed with toher things?


I came from the outdoors and experimented a bit...

I fell in love with Ebb n Flow... Just so easy to care for... and clean..

Just take a peek here... How do I make an ebb & flow


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## x420xTeXaN (Mar 2, 2009)

nice thread bunch of info, thx i know where i need to go for help


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## big3491 (Mar 2, 2009)

ok the worst thing happened today the top of one got broke off it had a little stem on it so i put it in some rock wool and watered it wit some nutes will eather the top or other part of the plant survive?


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## VictorVIcious (Mar 3, 2009)

big3491 said:


> ok the worst thing happened today the top of one got broke off it had a little stem on it so i put it in some rock wool and watered it wit some nutes will eather the top or other part of the plant survive?


Possible both will. if you don't give the top anymore nutes til it has some roots. VV


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## whysohigh (Mar 3, 2009)

big3491 said:


> ok the worst thing happened today the top of one got broke off it had a little stem on it so i put it in some rock wool and watered it wit some nutes will eather the top or other part of the plant survive?



yeah no nutes till roots, also the plant should be fine depending on how far up the break is, it might just be like topping it and youll end up with 2 tops


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## s3pug (Mar 4, 2009)

i think if any body wants to go hydro they should have a look at nft systems


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## Jtoth3ustin (Mar 6, 2009)

my freinds about to build me an areo setup. i never tried hydro before....... i get the concept. but whats the upside of it compared to soil.... all i can tell is cleanliness ... [email protected]


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## whysohigh (Mar 6, 2009)

Jtoth3ustin said:


> my freinds about to build me an areo setup. i never tried hydro before....... i get the concept. but whats the upside of it compared to soil.... all i can tell is cleanliness ... [email protected]


hydro grows are way faster, the plants react to changes in hours where soil takes days. if you started a seed in dirt and one in a hydro setup at the same time, the hydro plant would tower the soil plant by just the first few weeks.


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## Jtoth3ustin (Mar 6, 2009)

thnx. confirms my expectations than...... im gonna give it a try in a couple months after i get a couple crops off my new garden... [email protected]


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## GypsyBush (Mar 6, 2009)

Here is a Gypsy Calyx for you guys...


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## hgr9000 (Mar 8, 2009)

Can you grow hydroponically with out a light, just plain natural sun?


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## Gangaplanter (Mar 9, 2009)

Hydro is def the way to go, especially S.O.G methods! Once you get the hang of the water/nutrient/oxygen balance sorted its all good in da hood.Anyone had any experiance using HALO in hydro.........grow and flower???????? I try to stay away from to much additive etc but hearing nothing but good reports.........so who out there knows the know on the HALO?


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## Roseman (Mar 9, 2009)

God Bless and be with PotRoast as he endures and deals with his BUST.
He is a good kind soul and a great ganga grower.


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## whysohigh (Mar 9, 2009)

hgr9000 said:


> Can you grow hydroponically with out a light, just plain natural sun?


if you had a way to control the sunlight so it had the right light hours to veg and flower you could, or if you planned it right and started right before fall so you could get your 12/12 for flowering. but basically your grow will be faster in hydro so you cant start in the spring and let it go all summer like in soil. make sense?


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## Jtoth3ustin (Mar 10, 2009)

Roseman said:


> God Bless and be with PotRoast as he endures and deals with his BUST.
> He is a good kind soul and a great ganga grower.



this guy... where ya been hiding. havnt seen you around in a whiiiile man....whats goin on [email protected]


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## GypsyBush (Mar 11, 2009)

Roseman said:


> *God Bless and be with PotRoast as he endures and deals with his BUST.
> He is a good kind soul and a great ganga grower.*




Roseman, do you have any info?

Is he ok?

WHAT HAPPENED?

Thanks....


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## Roseman (Mar 11, 2009)

GypsyBush, what I know as fact is posted on the person RollitUp 's profile here, just click next to his avatar. I wish I know if RIU did anything to help out. If you hear, please let me know too.


----------



## GypsyBush (Mar 11, 2009)

Roseman said:


> GypsyBush, what I know as fact is posted on the person RollitUp 's profile here, just click next to his avatar. I wish I know if RIU did anything to help out. If you hear, please let me know too.


Will do Thanks!


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## IEbeginner (Mar 12, 2009)

i been veging my ladies for about 4 weeks now there getting to about 2 feet tall and i am going to put them into flowering this weekend do you have any suggestions on a bloom product?


----------



## whysohigh (Mar 12, 2009)

IEbeginner said:


> i been veging my ladies for about 4 weeks now there getting to about 2 feet tall and i am going to put them into flowering this weekend do you have any suggestions on a bloom product?



botanicare pure blend pro bloom
http://www.hydroponicsoutlet.com/Botanicare-Pure-Blend-Pro-Bloom-Gallon-p/aapbpbgal.htm

this is the best formula in the world it belongs to stinkbud on this forum, smart guy.
126ml cal-mag plus 
180ml luquid karma 
540ml pure blend pro vegitative formula or pro bloom


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## ksantos704 (Mar 16, 2009)

potroast said:


> All right! Hydroponics is what I know, and hydroponics is the way I grow!
> 
> This forum will be great, we can discuss anything hydro. No dirtbags here, We haul water!
> 
> ...


 
i wanted to know im starting my first hydro grow and i needed to know how much room does the plant require between each and whats the best nutrients do i need


----------



## whysohigh (Mar 16, 2009)

ksantos704 said:


> i wanted to know im starting my first hydro grow and i needed to know how much room does the plant require between each and whats the best nutrients do i need


it kinda depends on the strain and how much room you have but usually 6 to 8 inches between each is good. as far as nutes, you should go all organic i use botanicare read page 75 of this post you wont be sorry, it made me the grower i am today all thanks to stinkbud. good luck.

https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/116859-harvest-pound-every-three-weeks.html


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## mixxerman (Mar 17, 2009)

how offten do i water flood and drain hydro?please help.


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## s3pug (Mar 17, 2009)

just wondering if any can help im growing widow and im flowering now i got my white hairs on mybuds but i wanna now is when dose it get it crystles cose mine aint


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## VictorVIcious (Mar 17, 2009)

mixxerman said:


> how offten do i water flood and drain hydro?please help.


How often you water is _medium_ dependent. Go back and read the first few pages of the thread. Or provide more information. VV



> s3pug  just wondering if any can help im growing widow and im flowering now i got my white hairs on mybuds but i wanna now is when dose it get it crystles cose mine aint


If you don't see crystles within 30 minutes kill em. Widow varieties are usually long flowering periods, around 8 weeks of flowering, you should see some crystals. VV


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## whysohigh (Mar 17, 2009)

mixxerman said:


> how offten do i water flood and drain hydro?please help.


i dont use any type of growing medium the roots are basically in the air, the pump is on for one minute and off for five so the roots can get oxygen. its going to be a little different in every set up depending on what sort of medium your using.


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## whysohigh (Mar 17, 2009)

s3pug said:


> just wondering if any can help im growing widow and im flowering now i got my white hairs on mybuds but i wanna now is when dose it get it crystles cose mine aint


 the hairs come before the trichomes do be patient bro


----------



## wannabee (Mar 21, 2009)

I was reading the beginning of this thread and Al B. Fuct said that you can get an hps security light at a hardware store and I've seen them. I was just wondering if you can plug this in to a regular socket, or if you have to do some wiring to convert it. Does anyone know of a thread about how to convert the light, if this is the case and what amount of watts are these lights. Do they run hot? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## VictorVIcious (Mar 22, 2009)

wannabee said:


> I was reading the beginning of this thread and Al B. Fuct said that you can get an hps security light at a hardware store and I've seen them. I was just wondering if you can plug this in to a regular socket, or if you have to do some wiring to convert it. Does anyone know of a thread about how to convert the light, if this is the case and what amount of watts are these lights. Do they run hot? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.


I think the FAQ has a post about converting a security light. Yes, hid stands for high intensity discharge. The watts will be determined by the ballast in the fixture, it will be listed on the box. It will plug into a regular socket in you wire it to a cord, these lights are not likely to have one, they would expect them to be 'hard wired' not plugged in. VV


----------



## twistedentities (Mar 22, 2009)

WOW! THAT WAS ALOT OF READING!...LOL....I JUST LEARNED A CRAPLOAD! GR8 EFFIN THREAD!...I JUST STARTED A HYDRO GROW AFTER A VERY REWARDING SOIL GROW...IM USING WATERFARMS, 400HPS/MH, SENSI A+B PROGRAM,SENSIZYME, AND FOR FLOWER THE ADDITION OF GRAVITY DUE TO THE INCREDIBLE RESULTS IN MY PREVIOUS GROW...GROWING SOME STINKY WIDOW,CHEMO CINDY, WIDOW GRAPE, AND GIGABUD ALONG WITH SOME AUTO AKS TO FILL IN THE GAP WHILE THEY VEG....ANYWAY THATS MY SETUP AND WANNA SAY IM GLAD TO BE HERE! I'VE FOLLOWED SOME OF YOUR GROWS FOR A WHILE AND HAVE PICKED UP ALOT OF USEFUL INFO SO THANKS! I HOPE I CAN RETURN THE FAVOR......PUFF PUFF>>>>>>


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## wannabee (Mar 22, 2009)

thanks VV, I was just curious because I wanted to buy something locally instead of having it sent ups or other delivery. however, if these have to be wired it seems better for my purposes to buy a regular grow light. I just wish there were more hydro stores in my area.


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## VictorVIcious (Mar 24, 2009)

wannabee said:


> thanks VV, I was just curious because I wanted to buy something locally instead of having it sent ups or other delivery. however, if these have to be wired it seems better for my purposes to buy a regular grow light. I just wish there were more hydro stores in my area.


I understand that, I have always said I believe in doing business with the local folks were possible. VV


----------



## sid (Mar 28, 2009)

ph help please.. does any one know why the ph keeps dropping in my system.. i can adjust it to 6.3 and 5 hours later its back down to 5.. i grow in buckets with the juice running 24 hrs, i use gh product, and hydroton.. im stumped .. thanks for any help and rplys. and how long can i keep putting in ph up with it getting to stong in the resovour


----------



## bennyandthejets (Apr 3, 2009)

So, like so many post on here, I am a first timer killing my children. As you can see from the pics I have a decent set up, 3x1000wt hps and a 7'x3' terraponic air table. I am not sure exactly how old my clones are having got them from a "friend" but i would wager an uneducated guess @ 3-4 wks. I received them 2 weeks ago, they arrived in rock wool started cubes and were approx. 3"-4" tall. because I was waiting on some equip. I transplntd them into airated solo cups containing a 5prt. terraponic grow med./ 1prt. top soil mix there they sat for a wk. during that week they were watered lightly every other day w/ tap wtr. by the end of the week they were begining to slighty lighten in color. Wk. 2- I transplntd them into 2 gal smart pots filling the bottom with approx. 3'' of strait terraponic and topped off with the 5:1 top soil mix. When removed from the cups most had robust white root growth and seemed healthy aside from mild dicoloration which I was told to be norm. from trnsplnt. stress.

lights- I started in on a 18on 6off veg cycle for the whole week. The first batch of nutes. I mixed, I'm using supernatural grow terra for it's auto Ph balence, half of the recomended mix so as not to burn/shock them. Here's were I think I fucked up, because I didn't have a thermometer I went with the "back of the hand test" that was recomended by a grow tip post. My hand felt comfortable @ around 4-5 in. frm the bottm of the reflctor to top of the plant. Operating under the advice that the light should be as close as poss. w/ out burning new growth. I have a 6" vortex fan pulling air frm. outside where the temp is around 40-55 degrees and 2 room fans for air cirrculation. the next day leaves had turned way yellow and even a little brwn.

It has now been a week and I have moved the lights further and further up, they are now @18" frm. new grwth. and still the temp, I grabed a thermtr, is still @ 90 so I don't know what to do as they grow higher, I'll run out of rm. qukly! is this normal? my room temp, daytime, is @ 80.

FOOD- Although I'm pretty sure they didn't get nute. burn, being a newbie I flushed them just to be sure and the result was water logging. I stopped the feed timer and gave them a light top feed with a milder mix in a spray bottle. this was last night and these pics were taken tonight, they are getting WORSE!! After spending 3grand on this set up and having my supposed back pu of expirienced friends bail/flake out on me I'm kinda feeling a little burned myself. I am committed to seeing these beautyfull plants survive and having a long future of gardening for myself! PLEASE HELP A BROTHER OUT O' THIS PICKLE!!
tHANKS GUYS!


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## twistedentities (Apr 4, 2009)

bennyandthejets said:


> so, like so many post on here, i am a first timer killing my children. As you can see from the pics i have a decent set up, 3x1000wt hps and a 7'x3' terraponic air table. I am not sure exactly how old my clones are having got them from a "friend" but i would wager an uneducated guess @ 3-4 wks. I received them 2 weeks ago, they arrived in rock wool started cubes and were approx. 3"-4" tall. Because i was waiting on some equip. I transplntd them into airated solo cups containing a 5prt. Terraponic grow med./ 1prt. Top soil mix there they sat for a wk. During that week they were watered lightly every other day w/ tap wtr. By the end of the week they were begining to slighty lighten in color. Wk. 2- i transplntd them into 2 gal smart pots filling the bottom with approx. 3'' of strait terraponic and topped off with the 5:1 top soil mix. When removed from the cups most had robust white root growth and seemed healthy aside from mild dicoloration which i was told to be norm. From trnsplnt. Stress.
> 
> Lights- i started in on a 18on 6off veg cycle for the whole week. The first batch of nutes. I mixed, i'm using supernatural grow terra for it's auto ph balence, half of the recomended mix so as not to burn/shock them. Here's were i think i fucked up, because i didn't have a thermometer i went with the "back of the hand test" that was recomended by a grow tip post. My hand felt comfortable @ around 4-5 in. Frm the bottm of the reflctor to top of the plant. Operating under the advice that the light should be as close as poss. W/ out burning new growth. I have a 6" vortex fan pulling air frm. Outside where the temp is around 40-55 degrees and 2 room fans for air cirrculation. The next day leaves had turned way yellow and even a little brwn.
> 
> ...


ok, the first thing you wanna do is keep the lights at least 2 ft away from them if n0t further...the clones dont need that kind of light intensity while they are rooting and adjusting...33 or so inches from the light is good...you want to encourage them to grow towards the light...as for your temps 3 1000 wters is alot to control...the easiest fix for you would be an a/c unit...thats alot of heat off the bulbs to pull with a 6 inch fan...you need to pull the heat outta the roomor balance it out with cooler air...heat is usually one of the biggest pains in the ass for a new grow...read the fact section and grow room design and set up...if you need any help just pm me or stop by my current thread, i'll be happy to help


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## whysohigh (Apr 4, 2009)

bennyandthejets said:


> So, like so many post on here, I am a first timer killing my children. As you can see from the pics I have a decent set up, 3x1000wt hps and a 7'x3' terraponic air table. I am not sure exactly how old my clones are having got them from a "friend" but i would wager an uneducated guess @ 3-4 wks. I received them 2 weeks ago, they arrived in rock wool started cubes and were approx. 3"-4" tall. because I was waiting on some equip. I transplntd them into airated solo cups containing a 5prt. terraponic grow med./ 1prt. top soil mix there they sat for a wk. during that week they were watered lightly every other day w/ tap wtr. by the end of the week they were begining to slighty lighten in color. Wk. 2- I transplntd them into 2 gal smart pots filling the bottom with approx. 3'' of strait terraponic and topped off with the 5:1 top soil mix. When removed from the cups most had robust white root growth and seemed healthy aside from mild dicoloration which I was told to be norm. from trnsplnt. stress.
> 
> lights- I started in on a 18on 6off veg cycle for the whole week. The first batch of nutes. I mixed, I'm using supernatural grow terra for it's auto Ph balence, half of the recomended mix so as not to burn/shock them. Here's were I think I fucked up, because I didn't have a thermometer I went with the "back of the hand test" that was recomended by a grow tip post. My hand felt comfortable @ around 4-5 in. frm the bottm of the reflctor to top of the plant. Operating under the advice that the light should be as close as poss. w/ out burning new growth. I have a 6" vortex fan pulling air frm. outside where the temp is around 40-55 degrees and 2 room fans for air cirrculation. the next day leaves had turned way yellow and even a little brwn.
> 
> ...


twistedidenties is right, hps are great for flowering you should look at some floros for clones. also it looks to me like the discoloring is from not enough nutes.


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## whysohigh (Apr 4, 2009)

sid said:


> ph help please.. does any one know why the ph keeps dropping in my system.. i can adjust it to 6.3 and 5 hours later its back down to 5.. i grow in buckets with the juice running 24 hrs, i use gh product, and hydroton.. im stumped .. thanks for any help and rplys. and how long can i keep putting in ph up with it getting to stong in the resovour



what nutes are you using and what do you use to check your ph? 6.3 is kinda high, you wanna shoot for 5.8, always add your nutes first then adjust the ph.


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## Chumlie (Apr 6, 2009)

potroast, somepeople presoak their rw cubes in a hydroponic root stimulater. Now do you think that regular root stimulater from the garden center would work?

Here is another question, would you soak the rw cubes in *(A)* _quater nutrient strength_ *(B)* _root stimulater_ *(C)* _h202_ *(D)* _A and B_ *(E)* _B and C_ *(F)* _All of the above_


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## twistedentities (Apr 6, 2009)

Chumlie said:


> potroast, somepeople presoak their rw cubes in a hydroponic root stimulater. Now do you think that regular root stimulater from the garden center would work?
> 
> Here is another question, would you soak the rw cubes in *(A)* _quater nutrient strength_ *(B)* _root stimulater_ *(C)* _h202_ *(D)* _A and B_ *(E)* _B and C_ *(F)* _All of the above_


 ive always used superthrive in the water the cubes are soaked in...just a few drops in a 1/2 gal container and it seems to work well...


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## Chumlie (Apr 6, 2009)

the brand name i have is ferti lome rootstimulater plant starter.


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## VictorVIcious (Apr 7, 2009)

... your air handling system set up right.




> So, like so many post on here, I am a first timer killing my children.


That is a shame, lets see if we can help, ok?



> I have a 6" vortex fan pulling air frm. outside where the temp is around 40-55 degrees and 2 room fans for air cirrculation. the next day leaves had turned way yellow and even a little brwn.
> 
> It has now been a week and I have moved the lights further and further up, they are now @18" frm. new grwth. and still the temp, I grabed a thermtr, is still @ 90 so I don't know what to do as they grow higher, I'll run out of rm. qukly! is this normal? my room temp, daytime, is @ 80.


Well... that could be the problem, your air cooled lights are cool and the room is hot.....hmmmm. I bet it is because you are blowing the hot air from the lights into the room with no exhaust. There are three parts to an effective air handling system, and you are missing two of the three parts, let me explain. 
The CO2 your plants need exists in the air we breath, not in sufficient quantity to sustain co2 eating monsters, you need 'fresh air' for them. You can't put air into a room without taking air out of a room, you are missing the exhaust. 
You are air cooling the light improperly. That needs to be a separate system, air blown thru the lights to the outside, not into the room. I cool 2 1000watt light with a In-line Duct booster I bought at Menards for less than $30.00. As your 'hand test' shows, it doesn't take much too cool the lights, it does need to be seperate. The idea is too control the air in the room by removing the lights from the equation, air in thru and out. 
When you get this set up this way, you may need an intake, depending on how 'tight' your area is, it can be passive if smell is not a problem for you.
The third part is the oscillating fans and you have those. I use the wall mounted ones, that keeps them out of the way, they do seem to last longer, one of them I have is close to 2 years old. 
I use a Stationary fan on the floor in my area as well, CO2 is heavier than air, so I try to keep it moving, may not be necessary.



> After spending 3grand on this set up and having my supposed back pu of expirienced friends bail/flake out on me I'm kinda feeling a little burned myself. I am committed to seeing these beautyfull plants survive and having a long future of gardening for myself! PLEASE HELP A BROTHER OUT O' THIS PICKLE!!
> tHANKS GUYS!


The first question experienced growers ask when someone says they are having a problem is, "What is the temperature in your room?" You are better off without the friends that did not point this out. 
If the temperature problem gets taken care of, and I am sure you will take care of that, then we can address these other issues, like relative humidity. I am confident, from the center picture, that you can do this. VV


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## danzo (Apr 8, 2009)

hi mate a little help please just bought myself a 1.2m x1.2m tent with 600w light 4 x auto pots plant doing ok been in 21 days on 18 hrs light about 12" tall when would you change to 12 hrs running on canna co co thanks dan


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## whysohigh (Apr 8, 2009)

danzo said:


> hi mate a little help please just bought myself a 1.2m x1.2m tent with 600w light 4 x auto pots plant doing ok been in 21 days on 18 hrs light about 12" tall when would you change to 12 hrs running on canna co co thanks dan


depends on the strain kinda, and how big you want them to get. 12" tall is good height to start your 12/12.


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## doktorgreenthumb420 (Apr 10, 2009)

hi i knw i prlly should have read more of this threads most recent posts to see what you are talkin bout .....

picture is of seedlings that had just been ph fixed ...found out my ph here is like 8.0 and they had been veggin quite slowly for about 2 weeks so you can see why i was tripping they so small and sick 


anyways the other pics are same ones 2 weeks later and i have given em general hydro nutes in very small doses 

i am still a newbie only been doin this about 18 months but have recently found in my bloom room that i was starving them and was mistaking nute overdose ..when actually they were starving ....

my question is what is acceptable ppm for the plants in both the stages i have pics of 

like what ppm for the seedling stage 2 weeks ago and what ppm for now 

i use hardwater with around 400 ppm already in it 

and 3 part gro, micro,bloom GH 

and they are in general hydroponic brand coco coir 

ty so much for info


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## stonedcold421 (Apr 11, 2009)

hello all i am starting a new project. it is called an ebb-n-flow, aka flood and drain. i believe i have what i need to get stated with it but i am just gonna ask to see what i am missing if you dont mind? i have a 400w hps, have drains and pump ballast on the way, i also have a milwalkee ph meter (water proof), indoor out door temp digital, digital timer 6 settings, carbon scrubber and fan,hydroton, oneness nutes., cal-mag, ph up and down,and last but not least subculture. now im not starting with a good strain do to first time growing hydro so im starting with some unknow bag seed to see how i do then going to go to super silver haze. so if there is anything i missed can someone let me know please and thanks


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## stonedcold421 (Apr 11, 2009)

hello there hazedaze i just finished building my flood and drain system i went mid range for parts and it ran me about 1,000 usd. that is pretty cheap for that kind of system in my eyes.but for some it may not be the same. ok but any ways thats what i payed if you have any more questions you can ask i will help to the best i can.


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## orzz (Apr 11, 2009)

stonedcold421 said:


> hello all i am starting a new project. it is called an ebb-n-flow, aka flood and drain. i believe i have what i need to get stated with it but i am just gonna ask to see what i am missing if you dont mind? i have a 400w hps, have drains and pump ballast on the way, i also have a milwalkee ph meter (water proof), indoor out door temp digital, digital timer 6 settings, carbon scrubber and fan,hydroton, oneness nutes., cal-mag, ph up and down,and last but not least subculture. now im not starting with a good strain do to first time growing hydro so im starting with some unknow bag seed to see how i do then going to go to super silver haze. so if there is anything i missed can someone let me know please and thanks


Good idea to get the hang of things by following ur friend. When u r comfortable u can start experimenting.


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## orzz (Apr 11, 2009)

stonedcold421 said:


> hello all i am starting a new project. it is called an ebb-n-flow, aka flood and drain. i believe i have what i need to get stated with it but i am just gonna ask to see what i am missing if you dont mind? i have a 400w hps, have drains and pump ballast on the way, i also have a milwalkee ph meter (water proof), indoor out door temp digital, digital timer 6 settings, carbon scrubber and fan,hydroton, oneness nutes., cal-mag, ph up and down,and last but not least subculture. now im not starting with a good strain do to first time growing hydro so im starting with some unknow bag seed to see how i do then going to go to super silver haze. so if there is anything i missed can someone let me know please and thanks


How about some fans. You could cool ur lights, couple of small fans to move the air around ur plants.

Get a digital meter to read ppm.

Use a ro filter to remove impurities from ur water.

Hope that helps and gl.


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## blueberry1 (Apr 11, 2009)

potroast said:


> All right! Hydroponics is what I know, and hydroponics is the way I grow!  ]
> 
> Hey man see ya around. Want to give some advice about my 15 babes...all from Seed, hydro, big bud & blueberries. Just transplanted and leaves had already started to turn yellow from bottom up..coming from the veins, about a week ago.
> 
> Do you think generally when you buy nutes, you have to ADD in a trace element solution....since the nutes only include Nitrogen, Phosphourous, Potassium, Iron?? Also, do you have a good way of checking PH, easily, cheaply? THANK YOU!!!!!!!


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## orzz (Apr 11, 2009)

blueberry1 said:


> potroast said:
> 
> 
> > All right! Hydroponics is what I know, and hydroponics is the way I grow!  ]
> ...


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## doktorgreenthumb420 (Apr 12, 2009)

yea i need to know if the water i use is too hard ....if i use just cold water it is around 400 ppm i use a truncheoun meter and the EC is 0.8 for people that use that measurement .....................

also the ph is bluegreen coming out of the tap also ....so i guess around ph of 7.5 the other day it was 8.0 tho 


any help would be cool


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## orzz (Apr 12, 2009)

doktorgreenthumb420 said:


> yea i need to know if the water i use is too hard ....if i use just cold water it is around 400 ppm i use a truncheoun meter and the EC is 0.8 for people that use that measurement .....................
> 
> also the ph is bluegreen coming out of the tap also ....so i guess around ph of 7.5 the other day it was 8.0 tho
> 
> ...


I use ebb n flow so my pH measurements are lower than soil. search RIU for "soil pH" and what ppm your water and nutes ought to be.

Need to start some nutes. I like Botanicare CSN 17 as a base to start from. Start out simple and as u get more experience and r more comfortable u can start addinf things like silica blast, liquid karma, etc.


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## VictorVIcious (Apr 13, 2009)

doktorgreenthumb420


> yea i need to know if the water i use is too hard


Yes



> ....if i use just cold water it is around 400 ppm i use a truncheoun meter and the EC is 0.8 for people that use that measurement


why would you use any other water than cold water? 400ppm is pretty high, that would be a higher ppm then I would use for the first two weeks.



> .....................also the ph is bluegreen coming out of the tap also ....so i guess around ph of 7.5 the other day it was 8.0 tho


So you used ph down right?



> any help would be cool


The help you need is to read and heed. Ph down is less than $15.00 a quart. You spent $140.00 for a truncheon, spend the rest. 
Coco-coir needs lower ph than soil, around 5.8 and you should use lower amounts of nutes with it. In the late stages of flowering an EC of 2.2 to 2.4 is adequate. 
Your next investment should be a ph meter. With the drops you have to ph your water first and then add nutes. The nutes have buffers in them that affect ph. Until you can test the ph after adding nutes you will not be accurate with the ph. VV


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## kootabuds (Apr 13, 2009)

Hi potroast

Thanks for all the great info, I read heaps of your stuff before I built my setup.

When you get a second could you have a look at my grow thread, the link is below, and have a look at my question about when I should induce flowering based on my available height?

Thanks mate, appreciate it.

Link: https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/182181-my-super-skunk-hydro-grow-2.html#post2369616


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## noobgrower09 (Apr 14, 2009)

is attempting hydro a dumb idea for someones first grow?


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## VictorVIcious (Apr 14, 2009)

noobgrower09 said:


> is attempting hydro a dumb idea for someones first grow?


Not at all, a lot of us did that. Hydro does require good meters, buy the best you can afford. VV


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## orzz (Apr 14, 2009)

noobgrower09 said:


> is attempting hydro a dumb idea for someones first grow?


It is very easy. Read about it, follow other peeps gro journals and KISS (keep it simple stoner). As VV said u'll need meters. I also like LARGE reservoirs, they don't require as much adjustments (pH, nutes) as smaller ones. I use a 75 gal res per 2 4x4 trays.

Good luck #9


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## twistedentities (Apr 15, 2009)

hey all! Im growing in waterfarms with the advance nute sensi 2 part grow and bloom along with sensizyme and having trouble keeping a somewhat stable ph...i bounce from 5.9 up to 7.0 within a day or so...i do adjust it after nutes are added...any ph down products that you recommend that are more stable than the pool store ph minus?


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## whysohigh (Apr 15, 2009)

twistedentities said:


> hey all! Im growing in waterfarms with the advance nute sensi 2 part grow and bloom along with sensizyme and having trouble keeping a somewhat stable ph...i bounce from 5.9 up to 7.0 within a day or so...i do adjust it after nutes are added...any ph down products that you recommend that are more stable than the pool store ph minus?


not trying to alarm you but if your ph is jumping that much in one day you have a problem, i dont think its the acid your using. if your ph is at 5.8 (where it needs to be) it should stay that way unless you have a prob like high rez temps or light getting in causing some funk to grow and raise your ph. i went thru the same thing. by the way i use general hydroponics ph down, about $30 a gallon and its strong, one drop in a gallon of water takes the ph down about 0.7 or a whole unit sometimes.


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## twistedentities (Apr 15, 2009)

whysohigh said:


> not trying to alarm you but if your ph is jumping that much in one day you have a problem, i dont think its the acid your using. If your ph is at 5.8 (where it needs to be) it should stay that way unless you have a prob like high rez temps or light getting in causing some funk to grow and raise your ph. I went thru the same thing. By the way i use general hydroponics ph down, about $30 a gallon and its strong, one drop in a gallon of water takes the ph down about 0.7 or a whole unit sometimes.


 thanks for the response. My res temps are 65 and the cab temp is 74. They stay pretty constant. As for the light getting in, that was the frst thing i made sure wouldnt happen....i've been pretty careful not to overdue anything and set up the cab so id have a stable environment...plenty of air flo, careful monitoring of ppms and all that...my tap water ph is 6.9 and its well water that is better than most...ppm is around 125 ish...the ph thing has been driving me nuts! I do water chemisty for a living and cant figure this out...after adding nutes the ph goes to 7.2 and i lower it to 5.9 before filling the res during water changes. The pool ph minus i use should do the job, but i'll try some gh products. I just dont understand...


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## VictorVIcious (Apr 15, 2009)

Neither do I. Most nutes have buffers in the that lower ph. My tank usually drop at least a point after I add the nutes. VV


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## whysohigh (Apr 15, 2009)

twistedentities said:


> thanks for the response. My res temps are 65 and the cab temp is 74. They stay pretty constant. As for the light getting in, that was the frst thing i made sure wouldnt happen....i've been pretty careful not to overdue anything and set up the cab so id have a stable environment...plenty of air flo, careful monitoring of ppms and all that...my tap water ph is 6.9 and its well water that is better than most...ppm is around 125 ish...the ph thing has been driving me nuts! I do water chemisty for a living and cant figure this out...after adding nutes the ph goes to 7.2 and i lower it to 5.9 before filling the res during water changes. The pool ph minus i use should do the job, but i'll try some gh products. I just dont understand...


no light and low rez temps hmmm. well all i can think of is to check roots for rot, make sure to add your nutes first and check the ph after. some times the nutes will cause the ph to change a little once they get mixed in with the water better and once your pump cycles a few times. i would clean everything and run some clearex thru it all for a little bit and get some gh stuff.


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## potroast (Apr 17, 2009)

Sorry to tell you, I've not been posting because I was raided by the pigs and jailed for my legal, medical grow op. They wiped me out and I'm struggling just to live. My sentencing was Tuesday, and now I'm a felon, so I haven't been very enthusiastic about answering growing questions. Hopefully I'll get back into it soon. Please bear with me, and many thanks to the community for helping.


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## VictorVIcious (Apr 17, 2009)

Its good to see you have access to a computer. We miss you, we understand. VV


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## orzz (Apr 17, 2009)

Potroast so sorry th hear about your troubles.
If I can help in any way please PM me.


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## whysohigh (Apr 17, 2009)

potroast said:


> Sorry to tell you, I've not been posting because I was raided by the pigs and jailed for my legal, medical grow op. They wiped me out and I'm struggling just to live. My sentencing was Tuesday, and now I'm a felon, so I haven't been very enthusiastic about answering growing questions. Hopefully I'll get back into it soon. Please bear with me, and many thanks to the community for helping.


damn bro thats shitty for sure, good luck to you on your way thru this. non-violent victimless criminal, now a felon thats harsh. do you know why, did someone rat you out or something?


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## Jtoth3ustin (Apr 17, 2009)

damn thats some bullshit. i hope you find whoever narked on you.. [email protected]


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## doktorgreenthumb420 (Apr 17, 2009)

thanks for infor victor i actually do ph my water after addin nutes and keep it around 6.0 ...ill post some pics of gro sho ...oh yea i tested some water that contained hot water from my water heater in a five gallon bucket and ppm was higher ...lol y ea i use cold tho .. 

thinkin bout a RO thing for water ...any thoughts on that one


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## doktorgreenthumb420 (Apr 17, 2009)

hey potroast i just read your post dam man i am from el cajon ...and livin out of state now .... but am thinkin bout comin back ....are they hammerin down ther or what ....bummer on the raid thin too ....its bullshit when someone is growin MEDICINE ...i totally believe in that too ..was it feds or local cops ? 

again just wonderin cause im thinkin bout movin back to SD


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## orzz (Apr 17, 2009)

doktorgreenthumb420 said:


> thanks for infor victor i actually do ph my water after addin nutes and keep it around 6.0 ...ill post some pics of gro sho ...oh yea i tested some water that contained hot water from my water heater in a five gallon bucket and ppm was higher ...lol y ea i use cold tho ..
> 
> thinkin bout a RO thing for water ...any thoughts on that one


I use a tall boy to get the chlorine out and it puts out 80 ppm water which means I have lots of room for nutes.


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## VictorVIcious (Apr 18, 2009)

I use RO water. Everything stays cleaner. You do have to have a drain available, for every gallon of RO water, you have 4-5 gallons of 'waste water'. Installation is easy, a few screws to hold it on the wall, a male hose connection and your done. VV


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## GypsyBush (Apr 18, 2009)

*
Welcome Back Potroast..!!!


*​


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## DeweyKox (Apr 18, 2009)

potroast said:


> Sorry to tell you, I've not been posting because I was raided by the pigs and jailed for my legal, medical grow op. They wiped me out and I'm struggling just to live. My sentencing was Tuesday, and now I'm a felon, so I haven't been very enthusiastic about answering growing questions. Hopefully I'll get back into it soon. Please bear with me, and many thanks to the community for helping.


Dam, sorry bud! Legal Medical Grow, how was it not legal? What happened and any advise to others? Hope everything pans out your way!


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## dieselhound (Apr 19, 2009)

potroast said:


> Sorry to tell you, I've not been posting because I was raided by the pigs and jailed for my legal, medical grow op. They wiped me out and I'm struggling just to live. My sentencing was Tuesday, and now I'm a felon, so I haven't been very enthusiastic about answering growing questions. Hopefully I'll get back into it soon. Please bear with me, and many thanks to the community for helping.


 Obama- The raids for med. mj will stop.

This mf'er needs to stay in his own country and start addressing these serious issue's. I'm not impressed w/ this guys broken promises. Right now he is just another politician speaking out of both sides of his neck. What a surprise!

DH


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## potroast (Apr 19, 2009)

All right, guys. Thanks for the support. I wasn't going to go into it, but since you're wondering about it, and to soothe your paranoia, I'll give you a summary.

Yes, my grow op is completely legal, and the small collective of patients that I supply is legal. And this is not the federal pigs bothering us here, it is the local pigs and the DA who are ignoring our state laws, and taking the Medical Marijuana community down. I was caught in a sting where a local pig went to a MMJ clinic Doctor and got his recommendation to use, and then they ordered from every delivery service and caregiver that they could find over a 6 month period. Then they raided all of us in 1 week. They got at least 25 of us.

The San Diego pigs have been doing this for years now. They make up their own laws, and take down unsuspecting legal growers because *we're* easy, and *they* are lazy cowards. And now that I've been sentenced, the judge said I could continue doing what I was doing before!!


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## DeweyKox (Apr 19, 2009)

potroast said:


> And now that I've been sentenced, the judge said I could continue doing what I was doing before!!


WTF? I don't get it. Really, why then the sentence? 

Bummer man, this type of stuff needs to stop already. I mean come on, what kind of sting bullshit setup was that?

Thanks for sharing!


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## Jtoth3ustin (Apr 20, 2009)

i hear you mang.... they forced me to take a guilty plea for some bullshit dimebag in my pocket.... get a felony charge for fucking nothing..
sounds like theyll drop it though from what you said... you are legal... good luck man.. [email protected]


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## doktorgreenthumb420 (Apr 20, 2009)

awesome thanks guys for the RO information yea i like to know what all my ppm are so i will invest in a RO unit ....i think i know the perfect place to install it too


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## doktorgreenthumb420 (Apr 20, 2009)

well that is alot better than wher i am currently at ...looks like i will be movin back to good ol san diego ......btw ive lived in prlly 10 completely diff areas of the country for more than 6 months and san diego is the place i love the best ...lived there over 10 years and want to go back ....to hell with all the rest


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## UKB SKARFACE VF (Apr 21, 2009)

I am starting to grow using Hydo again after taking a break for over 5 years. So i started up my ebb n flow system added my first nutrients (DYNO GROW) and then adjusted my PH because it dropped after the Nutrients were added. 1 day later I have a 30 gallon resovior that is completley cloudy and in my top tray there is alot of white sediment. I had this problem when I used to grow using hydro and I found a easy fix but can not remember what it was now. Any suggestions?


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## jase32181 (Apr 22, 2009)

I'm about three weeks in to my grow, I have to stand alone bucket hydro systems running. I am using General Hydroponics solutions (Three bottles, different level mixtures depending on the stage). WHAT IS THE BEST NURTIRANTS TO GET? 

 One of my plants has always had this white residue on the leaves and is growing a lot slower then the other plants, do you know what that might be? I am running a 400 watt MH currently.


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## thinkhigh (Apr 22, 2009)

Good thread potroast. I've learned alot. Thanks. Good luck with you pig problems.


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## whysohigh (Apr 22, 2009)

jase32181 said:


> WHAT IS THE BEST NURTIRANTS TO GET?


Botanicare, all the way.


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## thinkhigh (Apr 22, 2009)

whysohigh said:


> Botanicare, all the way.


 
Spoken like a true Stinkbuddy.


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## whysohigh (Apr 22, 2009)

thinkhigh said:


> Spoken like a true Stinkbuddy.


hells yeah bro, i wont ever use anything else, unless stink does.


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## KGB27 (May 2, 2009)

HardTimez said:


> I dont think anybody should BUY a hydroponics system, there is one big thing about growing is to keep it one the LOW  now why would you go an buy a system, maybe the cops keep an eye on that place...or maybe he keeps a list ? even if you pay with cash...do you think he has a pen handy to write down your plate number? hmm i love the hardware store, plus you look prof. buying there too  the ladies like a man who is a proffesional  just build your own stuff if u smoke weed you have an imagination


 I totally agree with Hardtimez, anyone with a computer and a little imagination can put together almost any kind of system that they need, just look around and think about it, the hardware store has everything you need.......


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## KGB27 (May 2, 2009)

saine420 said:


> I agree with Wes. I am also using Advanced Nutrients and could not be happier with the results or the incredible tec support. Its so nice to know there ate tecs. using and trying ideas and tactits using the same nutrients my girls are on. The support staff is incredible and so is their products. Advanced Nutrients makes products fro everything so you dont have to swich companys for different solutions.. If you never looked into them I would recomend them for your hydro grow. I wanna thank everyone on this site. You guys are amazing and have some incredible advice.. Thanks for sharing your experienced brains with all of us wanting to grow ours.. Its nice to see people into this as much or more than me.. Lets make the world green and smell like skunk!! hahahaha .. Thanks again all!!


Wes, I just spent an hour on the website....fantastic, consistent, readable info in every way....thanks a mil....


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## GypsyBush (May 2, 2009)

HardTimez said:


> I dont think anybody should BUY a hydroponics system...
> 
> just build your own stuff if u smoke weed you have an imagination





KGB27 said:


> I totally agree with Hardtimez, anyone with a computer and a little imagination can put together almost any kind of system that they need, just look around and think about it, the hardware store has everything you need.......


Like I was just thinking that I have an area in my op that has enough light to warrant a few more ladies...

But I am kinda strapped for cash right now so I went looking around the house...

I found...

1 - 185 gph water pump

2 - 5ft of flexible hose

3 - 18 gallon tub (the res)

4 - bottom half of a 32 gallon rubbermaid (the tray)

5 - 11 6" pots

6 - some string

7 - some gravel from the driveway ( I would have preferred using hydroton, but the gravel was free, we'll see how it works)

It is a recirculating drip/squirt sytem...

The water gets pumped to the individual pots via holes in the hose.. and returns to the res via holes in the bottom of the tray...

I plan on running it 4 hours on 15 min off... during lights on...

Simple as it gets, and although it was not free, most people here have this stuff at home...

Here is the picture...

and I'll make sure to bring updated pics when the time comes...

Cheers...


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## GypsyBush (May 2, 2009)

Got rid of the strings... drilled some holes on the pots...

Now I need a plug for the hose....


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## freedomrider (May 5, 2009)

Can anyone direct me to any info about complete automatic hydro systems: requirements, materials...step by step for dummies like me! I have a 10 x 10 room I want to convert into a perpetual green-space. I need to know approximate costs and whatever resources and techniques that would improve my chances for success.


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## VictorVIcious (May 6, 2009)

GypsyBush said:


> Got rid of the strings... drilled some holes on the pots...
> 
> Now I need a plug for the hose....


The big box stores will have them, they use them at the end of Automatic Lawn Sprinkling installations. VV


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## GypsyBush (May 6, 2009)

VictorVIcious said:


> The big box stores will have them, they use them at the end of Automatic Lawn Sprinkling installations. VV


Thanks VV...

I appreciate the help...

I solved the plug problem at home... lol... you'll see...lol...

Also I figured I'd mention that I will be re-doing the pots, with the hose running lower... below the RW cube level... they are just getting soaked...

But other than that.. it works like a charm...

Thanks again VV...


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## doktorgreenthumb420 (May 6, 2009)

lol beautiful


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## GypsyBush (May 6, 2009)

doktorgreenthumb420 said:


> lol beautiful


Fast and cheesy...  cheap too...lol...


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## GypsyBush (May 8, 2009)

I found this... but i don't know shit...

What are your thoughts???

Cheers..


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## ibuild4u (May 10, 2009)

Advice on , nutrients?

I have a 10 gal ressevior, if i start with full strength nutes, should i just add nutes at the rate of fresh water that i add now, roughly 3 gal every 2days is its use, or I am getting my nutes to low because the plants are taking the up, henceforth do I have 7 gallons of just water in the tank, any one have advice on this , I have sickened plants bfore over nutes, but i think i am losing time over safety. ph 6.0 tapawater, nly needed to bring it down te once on adding full strenght nutes at startup.

thx
happy mothers day


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## midwestgrowfest (May 12, 2009)

my very first hydro system i made.4 plants in a top feed system.every thing is going good.Real good i cant belive how fast and well thay are doing.ok im ready for budding so i have a 400 hps any tips for getting the best and most bud? thanks.


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## GypsyBush (May 12, 2009)

Grow that shit!


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## Jtoth3ustin (May 12, 2009)

what would be a better system to learn the basics on. EBB and flow, or DWC... im leaning more towards EBB, but i cant decide... [email protected]
also SoG of course..


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## GypsyBush (May 12, 2009)

Ebb flow will be the easiest, if you are looking to establish a perpetual harvest SOG...

This is a good read for any SOG'er...lol..

Get a harvest every 2 weeks


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## Jtoth3ustin (May 13, 2009)

dam link is busted... but yea. after my last crop in a month. think im gonna start some mums in the EBB system im gonna build.. just to get it down before i switch entirely [email protected]


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## GypsyBush (May 13, 2009)

Jtoth3ustin said:


> dam link is busted... but yea. after my last crop in a month. think im gonna start some mums in the EBB system im gonna build.. just to get it down before i switch entirely [email protected]


Sorry.. I don't know what happened there..lol..

Try this..

https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/6592-get-harvest-every-2-weeks.html

Also.. here is my latest update...

https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/167596-gypsys-picture-depot-15.html


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## Jtoth3ustin (May 13, 2009)

o wow al.b's grow is insane.. thats exactly what i was trying to base my current op on... picture depot. hehe good shit man......


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## GypsyBush (May 13, 2009)

Jtoth3ustin said:


> o wow al.b's grow is insane.. thats exactly what i was trying to base my current op on... picture depot. hehe good shit man......


I shamelessly copied his grow...

Changed a few things to suit my "hand"..lol..

But I have been happy from the very first harvest...lol...

 ​


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## Jtoth3ustin (May 13, 2009)

GypsyBush said:


> ​


haha yes he does..very much soo...


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## VictorVIcious (May 18, 2009)

yes he does, too bad he had to retire from our boards. VV


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## Jtoth3ustin (May 18, 2009)

did he get into it with a bunch of mods er w/e


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## GypsyBush (May 18, 2009)

Jtoth3ustin said:


> did he get into it with a bunch of mods er w/e


*Al B. Gone *


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## Jtoth3ustin (May 18, 2009)

ill take that as a yes. :\


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## GypsyBush (May 18, 2009)

Jtoth3ustin said:


> ill take that as a yes. :\


Did you read the link?


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## VictorVIcious (May 18, 2009)

No he didn't read it, and no Al did not get into it with any mod unless you consider that little spat with fdd about 2 years ago and that was about the bud dryer anyway. VV


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## Jtoth3ustin (May 18, 2009)

oh wow. i just read that. i was rushing out the door earlier when i was posting.. .and yea i was thinking about the dryer box incident.. they got into real bad... good to know he didnt get pinched..


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## J.Ruhland (May 19, 2009)

I have been growing hydro for the last 2weeks or so. My Seedlings are looking ok but this is my first grow so, i dont know exactly if im doing everything right. Should i leave my fogger on at night and off in the day, or just leave it on 24/7. And how often should i be watering my plants? i have a drip nossel that controls the watering processes and want to make sure i dont over water, which im afraid thats what i may have been doing. If someone is willing to help a fellow hydro grower its appreciated on all levels. Goodlooking


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## J.Ruhland (May 19, 2009)

another quick question. i heard somewhere that since im using hydro i should keep my plants on a 24hour schedule, until the flowering cycle and revert to 12/12 after that. Should i be doing this? Ive had my plants on an 18/6 schedule. i am new obvioulsy, but shoot you have to start somewhere right. thanks again


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## VictorVIcious (May 19, 2009)

J.Ruhland said:


> I have been growing hydro for the last 2weeks or so. My Seedlings are looking ok but this is my first grow so, i dont know exactly if im doing everything right. Should i leave my fogger on at night and off in the day, or just leave it on 24/7. And how often should i be watering my plants? i have a drip nossel that controls the watering processes and want to make sure i dont over water, which im afraid thats what i may have been doing. If someone is willing to help a fellow hydro grower its appreciated on all levels. Goodlooking


You forgot to tell us what medium you are using, that will determine your watering schedule. The fogger would be a new one on me if you mean you are fogging the room (Careful there). More details of what that is nadhow it is supposed to be used might help? 
If your seedlings are looking ok, you must be doing something right. If you provide pictures we may even be able to help you. We are not in your room so we can't see it unless you help us out. 
For your other question, experienced grower can prove you can get more production from your plants with the 24 hour light cycle. They must be correct, when I ran my mothers on the 24 hour cycle they grew too fast to fit my production line. I use the 18/6 light cycle, that is just my personal preference, either will do fine. VV


----------



## orzz (May 19, 2009)

VictorVIcious said:


> For your other question, experienced grower can prove you can get more production from your plants with the 24 hour light cycle. They must be correct, when I ran my mothers on the 24 hour cycle they grew too fast to fit my production line. I use the 18/6 light cycle, that is just my personal preference, either will do fine. VV


Agreed, I used to use 24/7 on veg but the plants grew too tall. I am on 18/6 veg light cycle now also.


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## J.Ruhland (May 19, 2009)

I meant to post the pictures up last night but i rolled a J and passed out. Anyhow here are a few pictures, my first instinct tells me that ive over waterd a bit. But i will let u be the judge. Anyhow im not exatly sure medium? If u could help me there, i could help you help me a little more. BUt here are the pics


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## VictorVIcious (May 19, 2009)

The medium you are using is Hydroton commonly referred to as clay pebbles. SOme of the systems run 24/7 with that medium in a drip system, I don't think it is possible to over water that medium. Potroast recommended 4 to 5 times a day, 10 to 15 minutes, if I remember right.
Nothing else I can do for you, that is a nice looking setup, just make sure you have all the systems necessary to keep your 7 basics in balance, you will be 90% successful. VV


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## J.Ruhland (May 19, 2009)

VictorVIcious said:


> The medium you are using is Hydroton commonly referred to as clay pebbles. SOme of the systems run 24/7 with that medium in a drip system, I don't think it is possible to over water that medium. Potroast recommended 4 to 5 times a day, 10 to 15 minutes, if I remember right.
> Nothing else I can do for you, that is a nice looking setup, just make sure you have all the systems necessary to keep your 7 basics in balance, you will be 90% successful. VV


 Thanks vicious, all you info helps out alot bud. In your opinion does there seem to be anything wrong with my plants. I dont understand why the leafs are drooping for


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## berryb (May 20, 2009)

Anybody know how to make a hydroponic setup out of them foamy ice boxes u get when u go fishing to put ice in ...and my friend had a plant growing in a small cup hydroponicly does anybody know how to do it this way ? or where i can find info


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## orzz (May 20, 2009)

berryb said:


> Anybody know how to make a hydroponic setup out of them foamy ice boxes u get when u go fishing to put ice in ...and my friend had a plant growing in a small cup hydroponicly does anybody know how to do it this way ? or where i can find info


For info you are in the right place. Look here. Keep reading and you will find what you want.


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## VictorVIcious (May 20, 2009)

J.Ruhland said:


> Thanks vicious, all you info helps out alot bud. In your opinion does there seem to be anything wrong with my plants. I dont understand why the leafs are drooping for


... JR, they look fine just young, possibly a little stretched, its hard to tell heights from the pictures, so let me just run the nute schedule by ya. 1/4 strength at two weeks, no adverse effect, bump it up a 1/4 every three or four days, getting to full strength at about four weeks. 
All of this discussion belongs in Your journal. Put all of the details you have of what you have done and how with what there. And of course include pictures. Be sure and link your journal in your signature and send me a link when you have it posted. You have a nice neat looking setup going there, keep it up. VV


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## BTKlotusninja420 (May 24, 2009)

hey i just placed my popped seeds in my sure to grow media...im going to be using the ebb and grow system with a 600w hps unit. for the vegging stage i have a pioneer jr t5 setup in a smaller sized homebox veg tent. how close should i place the t5s in such a smaller confined tent? i killed my last batch i think i gave them nutes wayyyy to early or maybe the light was too close? i have spent about 2000 bucks on getting everything in my possesion now i really want to see results! i have both compley humbolt nute kits (salt based and organic that was about 400 bucks alltogether!) i suppose i just need some good baby steps to get myt plants to be as good as they can be. seedwise i have 4 nevilles haze,2 blue venom,2 pineapple express,1 diesel, and 1 white widow all femd and just placed them in the sure to grow media. i have my t5 almost all the way at the top of the homebox waiting for sprouts,i have a germination heat mat under my flat of cubes. please help i cant bare to lose another bathc of seedlings!

https://www.rollitup.org/members/btklotusninja420-albums-1st-hydrogrow-equipment.html

this is my photo album and the first 3 pics are of my currant attempt..any advice will do!

peace, kozmo


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## BTKlotusninja420 (May 24, 2009)

BTKlotusninja420 said:


> hey i just placed my popped seeds in my sure to grow media...im going to be using the ebb and grow system with a 600w hps unit. for the vegging stage i have a pioneer jr t5 setup in a smaller sized homebox veg tent. how close should i place the t5s in such a smaller confined tent? i killed my last batch i think i gave them nutes wayyyy to early or maybe the light was too close? i have spent about 2000 bucks on getting everything in my possesion now i really want to see results! i have both compley humbolt nute kits (salt based and organic that was about 400 bucks alltogether!) i suppose i just need some good baby steps to get myt plants to be as good as they can be. seedwise i have 4 nevilles haze,2 blue venom,2 pineapple express,1 diesel, and 1 white widow all femd and just placed them in the sure to grow media. i have my t5 almost all the way at the top of the homebox waiting for sprouts,i have a germination heat mat under my flat of cubes. please help i cant bare to lose another bathc of seedlings!
> 
> https://www.rollitup.org/members/btklotusninja420-albums-1st-hydrogrow-equipment.html
> 
> ...




oh and the previous pics are from my last attempt to grow. just look how nice my past seedlings looked and then one day last week,i woke up and they all had collapsed and looked liked they were cooked 

thanks again

kozmo


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## VictorVIcious (May 25, 2009)

BTKlotusninja420 said:


> oh and the previous pics are from my last attempt to grow. just look how nice my past seedlings looked and then one day last week,i woke up and they all had collapsed and looked liked they were cooked
> 
> thanks again
> 
> kozmo


The number one problem for new growers is over watering. You see, your plants roots need oxygen, and the way they get it is having the medium that they are in dry out a little. As the water leaves, air is pulled in to replace the water and your plants roots get to breath a little air. If this doesn't happen they literally 'drown', fall over, dead. This may be one area you wish to investigate. 
The heat mat heats the water in the medium. If the entire block is wet, the extra heat intended for the bottom of the roots is transferred all through the cube, now you have drowned cooked plants. 
Is that what you had? Medium that was totally wet and warm with dead plants? 
All of this belongs in Your Journal. We will help you, just get all of that together in one place, give details of what you did, especially your watering schedule. No nutes for the first two weeks. VV


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## BTKlotusninja420 (May 25, 2009)

VictorVIcious said:


> The number one problem for new growers is over watering. You see, your plants roots need oxygen, and the way they get it is having the medium that they are in dry out a little. As the water leaves, air is pulled in to replace the water and your plants roots get to breath a little air. If this doesn't happen they literally 'drown', fall over, dead. This may be one area you wish to investigate.
> The heat mat heats the water in the medium. If the entire block is wet, the extra heat intended for the bottom of the roots is transferred all through the cube, now you have drowned cooked plants.
> Is that what you had? Medium that was totally wet and warm with dead plants?
> All of this belongs in Your Journal. We will help you, just get all of that together in one place, give details of what you did, especially your watering schedule. No nutes for the first two weeks. VV



yea lol thats about on the dot what i had..plus i tried nutes to early...i removed the heat mat yesterday and now im just using water and i have my sunleaves pioneer v floro t5 on to produce the required heat they need..sure to grow is an interesting media its almost like medical grade pillow stuffing!

peace

kozmo


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## nofearacer87 (May 25, 2009)

this might sound dumb but is it possible to have like a hydroponics system outside so you could grow outdoors?


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## VictorVIcious (May 25, 2009)

nofearacer87 said:


> this might sound dumb but is it possible to have like a hydroponics system outside so you could grow outdoors?


Sure is, many outdoor growers use hydro. The use a drip system, drain to waste. Some mislabel it as a sprinkler system. Most use it for the lawn. If you have access to a hose with decent water close to your grow and electric available then it is possible. You can buy celenoid valves and Sprinkler Timers, even have some with a water mizer feature, so they don't run when it has rained. VV


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## hubebaba (Jun 11, 2009)

I am wondering why my roots are turning brown and I have a few leaves turning yellowish brown with brown spots ... what would you suggest ? I do have a bubbletronics unit and my plants are a lil over 5 wks of age


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## VictorVIcious (Jun 12, 2009)

hubebaba said:


> I am wondering why my roots are turning brown and I have a few leaves turning yellowish brown with brown spots ... what would you suggest ? I do have a bubbletronics unit and my plants are a lil over 5 wks of age


What is the water temperature in your unit? Roots can sometimes gain a little color from the nutes, the questions is are the brown and slimy, or just a little discolored. Can you run your fingers down them without breaking them off? Lower leaves are sometimes shed by the plant, is this just happening at the bottom? 
A picture of the whole plant may help? VV


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## GypsyBush (Jun 13, 2009)

Hey VV..

I haven't seen you over at my journal.. so I thought I'd drop some porn on you guys...

Enjoy! and Thanks for all the help!


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## hubebaba (Jun 13, 2009)

VictorVIcious said:


> What is the water temperature in your unit? Roots can sometimes gain a little color from the nutes, the questions is are the brown and slimy, or just a little discolored. Can you run your fingers down them without breaking them off? Lower leaves are sometimes shed by the plant, is this just happening at the bottom?
> A picture of the whole plant may help? VV


Water temps are 72-77, lower when ice is added. The roots have gotten a bit slimy, but they dont seem to break off (didn't pull 'em). It is just some lower leaves dying, but entire plant is droopy.


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## VictorVIcious (Jun 13, 2009)

hubebaba said:


> Water temps are 72-77, lower when ice is added. The roots have gotten a bit slimy, but they dont seem to break off (didn't pull 'em). It is just some lower leaves dying, but entire plant is droopy.


You do have some issues there, water temp for one. I am not totally familiar with Bubbleponics. Slimy is the beginning of a problem. Check your self into a couple of Bubble Journals and ask someone using that system.



> GypsyBush Hey VV..
> 
> I haven't seen you over at my journal.. so I thought I'd drop some porn on you guys...
> 
> Enjoy! and Thanks for all the help!


That is one sick set up, great job. I opened both of the videos, reminds me of the DirtBags post. I don't make it to many Master Growers Journals these days, I can tell I should.lol VV


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## GypsyBush (Jun 13, 2009)

VictorVIcious said:


> You do have some issues there, water temp for one. I am not totally familiar with Bubbleponics. Slimy is the beginning of a problem. Check your self into a couple of Bubble Journals and ask someone using that system.


This is a great source for DWC info...

Roseman is a gentleman and very knowledgeable too..

Stealth Hydro Bubbleponics Systems




> That is one sick set up, great job. I opened both of the videos, reminds me of the DirtBags post.


Thanks!

It's all thanks to Al B. Fuct and other cool users like you that are always willing to help...



> I don't make it to many Master Growers Journals these days, I can tell I should.lol VV


Thanks again...!!!

But I am a newb... you might remember me pestering Al about my Aerogarden...

I've been doing ebb/flow for about 6 or 7 months now...

Hope to see you over at the depot...

Cheers...


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## VictorVIcious (Jun 14, 2009)

Thanx, it has been a while since I viewed his information. VV


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## spikymikie (Jun 17, 2009)

Need some hydro help ......I think I may have killed a beautiful 8ft tall indica from flushing it. I did a water flush on it to flush salts, poisons, etc.....and ever since then it has been losing foliage and wilting badly. From the bottom up. The only mistake I can possibly figure is it was out of water for maybe 10 minutes. Any thoughts or experience would be greatly appreciated.


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## [email protected] (Jun 20, 2009)

I have the 5 gal bucket going with for plants. It has the hydro magic kit. Plug it in and walk away. Should i keep the light on all night they are just getting there first leaves yea


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## LincolnStOnEr (Jun 21, 2009)

I'm doing the basic Ebb and Flow system its mostly hands off which is nice when your at work all the time. Anyhow I'm just starting with Two plants for now to see if the system works since i'm new to this whole thing and learning as I go. I build my own Ebb and Flow out of rubber made tubs and a water fountain pump, and a resevoir which I found at any local Indoor grow shop. Also got all the nutrients and whole set-up besides light for under probably $250-300. If all goes well I will step it up to 6-10 plants which will take more of an investment but if it yields alot then might be worth it. well here is my system and plants after 4 1/2 weeks.


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## potroast (Jun 23, 2009)

spikymikie said:


> Need some hydro help ......I think I may have killed a beautiful 8ft tall indica from flushing it. I did a water flush on it to flush salts, poisons, etc.....and ever since then it has been losing foliage and wilting badly. From the bottom up. The only mistake I can possibly figure is it was out of water for maybe 10 minutes. Any thoughts or experience would be greatly appreciated.


I don't think that any watering problem hurt your plant. Could the problem be that she is 8 feet tall? How far is the light source from the lower leaves? If they are mostly shaded, or too far away, they will not last long.



[email protected] said:


> I have the 5 gal bucket going with four plants. It has the hydro magic kit. Plug it in and walk away. Should i keep the light on all night they are just getting there first leaves yea


Most growers veg their plants by giving 24 hours light, or 18 ON / 6 OFF.



LincolnStOnEr said:


> I'm doing the basic Ebb and Flow system its mostly hands off which is nice when your at work all the time. Anyhow I'm just starting with Two plants for now to see if the system works since i'm new to this whole thing and learning as I go. I build my own Ebb and Flow out of rubber made tubs and a water fountain pump, and a resevoir which I found at any local Indoor grow shop. Also got all the nutrients and whole set-up besides light for under probably $250-300. If all goes well I will step it up to 6-10 plants which will take more of an investment but if it yields alot then might be worth it. well here is my system and plants after 4 1/2 weeks.


That looks great, a nice start. You may want to cover any parts that get wet because algae will grow. Once the system is full of plants, you won't have to worry about it.

Welcome to Rollitup!


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## cosmofraek (Jun 23, 2009)

LincolnStOnEr said:


> I'm doing the basic Ebb and Flow system its mostly hands off which is nice when your at work all the time. Anyhow I'm just starting with Two plants for now to see if the system works since i'm new to this whole thing and learning as I go. I build my own Ebb and Flow out of rubber made tubs and a water fountain pump, and a resevoir which I found at any local Indoor grow shop. Also got all the nutrients and whole set-up besides light for under probably $250-300. If all goes well I will step it up to 6-10 plants which will take more of an investment but if it yields alot then might be worth it. well here is my system and plants after 4 1/2 weeks.


what strain are those?


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## DyThaGreat1 (Jun 23, 2009)

new to hydros need alot of help!!!


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## LincolnStOnEr (Jun 23, 2009)

cosmofraek said:


> what strain are those?


 
I'm not Sure they were just some ones I had laying around and Figured that they would be some good starters. What is the best way to tell the strains are there any tell tale signs ???


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## orzz (Jun 23, 2009)

LincolnStOnEr said:


> I'm not Sure they were just some ones I had laying around and Figured that they would be some good starters. What is the best way to tell the strains are there any tell tale signs ???


It is impossible to figure out a plants genetics or strain from any tell tale signs. Need to know the mother and father and their genetics to get an idea of what the offspring will be. Even then certain traits get passed to some and not others.

So no. As far as I know there is no sure fire way of telling what a plant may be.


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## DuckAttack (Jun 24, 2009)

I was having trouble keeping my heat down, living in Southern California in the desert area it gets blazin' hot....

I have a 4x4x6.5 Grow tent. My inline fan took a crap and don't have the funds to buy a new one at the moment, so i rigged this up and it works great!!

Under $20 

Walmart - $12 - 12" Black fan
Home Depot - $6 - Ducting Reducer 8" reduced to 6"
Laying around the house - Duct Tape. 

I plugged it into its own power strip just incase the resistance popped the fuse...nope.. two weeks in and it keeps my tent in the higher 80's but its better than nothing considering its in the high 90's to 100's outside. 

Let me know what you think. I have no clue what the cfm is, but if I could post a video of me standing in front of it, it blows my hair back from 5 feet away.


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## VictorVIcious (Jun 24, 2009)

DuckAttack said:


> I was having trouble keeping my heat down, living in Southern California in the desert area it gets blazin' hot....
> 
> I have a 4x4x6.5 Grow tent. My inline fan took a crap and don't have the funds to buy a new one at the moment, so i rigged this up and it works great!!
> 
> ...



Hey, you do what ya gotta do. Not sure why this is in a hydro thread, but hey.....lmao VV


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## I grow dank (Jun 28, 2009)

4 11L pot wilma (drip) system with a 30L resevoir, 400w mh/hps for flowering. 4 weeks veg, 7-9 weeks flowering. could someone tell me a general rule of thumb on how many time a day to water and for how long per watering? thanks


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## VictorVIcious (Jun 28, 2009)

I grow dank said:


> 4 11L pot wilma (drip) system with a 30L resevoir, 400w mh/hps for flowering. 4 weeks veg, 7-9 weeks flowering. could someone tell me a general rule of thumb on how many time a day to water and for how long per watering? thanks


Not unless they know what medium your plants are in. ???? VV


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## twistedentities (Jun 29, 2009)

I grow dank said:


> 4 11L pot wilma (drip) system with a 30L resevoir, 400w mh/hps for flowering. 4 weeks veg, 7-9 weeks flowering. could someone tell me a general rule of thumb on how many time a day to water and for how long per watering? thanks


 if you're using clay pellets, i do 15 minutes every two hours and it seems to keep them happy....


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## GypsyBush (Jun 29, 2009)

One thing I LOVE about hydro... 

little pots...


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## LincolnStOnEr (Jun 29, 2009)

Here is an Update I posted about 2 weeks ago or so and I have went out and purchased a 260w Ballast with MH and HPS capabilities. I'm running the MH at the moment during Veg and might switch to HPS later on or just try it on another grow. Heat was an initial Factor in this set up but after going out and purchasing two Medium sized fans and positioning them on each side it keeps a good about of wind going around inside of this closet. Anyhow I'm about 5-6 weeks in right at the moment. Any tips that anyone has or any constructive criticism would be appreciated.  ~Take one for me and I'll take a second one for myself~!


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## LincolnStOnEr (Jun 29, 2009)

Here are the pictures forgot to wait for them to finish loading... LOL


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## VictorVIcious (Jun 29, 2009)

LincolnStOnEr said:


> Here are the pictures forgot to wait for them to finish loading... LOL


Here is a link to a thread I posted about air cooling your light. You will not be wasting money on the cool tube even if you decide to buy a higher power light, all of them fit in the same cool tube. https://www.rollitup.org/do-yourself/187391-diy-venting-grow-room-lights.html VV


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## LincolnStOnEr (Jun 29, 2009)

I checked out your post and that is a clean install and probably going to be switching my location here soon. but currently i'm living in an Apartment so can't just go drilling through walls. I have to have a way that has nothing going to the outside and also to where no one can see anything.


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## VictorVIcious (Jun 29, 2009)

LincolnStOnEr said:


> I checked out your post and that is a clean install and probably going to be switching my location here soon. but currently i'm living in an Apartment so can't just go drilling through walls. I have to have a way that has nothing going to the outside and also to where no one can see anything.


Well, you do what you gotta do. You have a pretty open area so it might not get to bad. VV


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## Bongtok4u (Jun 29, 2009)

looking for some help. This is what i have. pics included. foam build up and dead looking plantsw what to do


FIRST TIME WITH HYDROPONICS
I AM RUNNING A BUBBLEBONICS FROM STEALTH HYDRO
2 CFLS 46 WATTS (bare bulbs)
2 LEDS 54 WATTS
4-6 INCHES
2 6" hydro fans
MY GROW TENT HAS INLET AND OUTLETS
11 GAL TOTE USE ONLY 6 GALLONS WATER TEMPETURE IS 70
WELL WATER
DONT KNOW ITEM M-L
PH CHANGES DAILY
I DO NOT FOLAIR FEED
HUT IS 62"TALL X 36 WIDEX 20 DEEP
LIGHTS ON 76 DEGREES 60% HUM
LIGHTS OFF 70 DEGREES 50% HUM
NO BUGS IN ROOM
FROM SEEDS AND DONT KNOW JUST GOOD BUD


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## hup (Jun 30, 2009)

what type of medium should i use for my hydro system? starting out from seeds


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## HydroMagnum (Jun 30, 2009)

Has any one used the cutting edge solutions and would u reccomend it in hydroponically growing. Thanks


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## VictorVIcious (Jun 30, 2009)

Bongtok4u said:


> looking for some help. This is what i have. pics included. foam build up and dead looking plantsw what to do
> 
> 
> FIRST TIME WITH HYDROPONICS
> ...


If In Doubt Flush It Out. Your feeding them too much nutes or too high of ph. For any of the Hydro systems you need meters that check your ppm ( part per million). Right now, you need to get all of that stuff out of there and start 1/4 strength nute solution for a few hours. Then start again with fresh water, add your nutes, ph your water after adding nutes. I would start at that point with 1/2 strength. If the plants begin to recover, kick it up a quarter after about 3 days, no adverse effects, kick it up to full strength. 
Most of the nutrients have buffers in them that affect your ph. This is why drops will not work for checking ph in that type of system. Good luck. VV


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## GypsyBush (Jul 3, 2009)

Thought I'd share...

Some have called "extreme" ebb/flow...lol...

This is my "single plant/600w/ one pound" attempt... still vegging...

She is in a 19 gallon pot of hydroton...


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## ShoAL paTroL (Jul 4, 2009)

i have a ? about one of my res's that keeps going murky and some nasty stuff floating in it.the nutes are sensi bloom a&b,bud candy,calplex,and some beastie blooms.iam running a ebb/flo.the res has a air stone and a pump that moevs the water around so it doesnt go stale.i just filled this res last night and its already looking nasty.the plants look fine and my ph hasnt spiked up.

could it be the calplex that doesnt like my tapwater since its organic?.or is it the airstone?does anyone have any thoughts why this keeps happening?


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## orzz (Jul 4, 2009)

ShoAL paTroL said:


> i have a ? about one of my res's that keeps going murky and some nasty stuff floating in it.the nutes are sensi bloom a&b,bud candy,calplex,and some beastie blooms.iam running a ebb/flo.the res has a air stone and a pump that moevs the water around so it doesnt go stale.i just filled this res last night and its already looking nasty.the plants look fine and my ph hasnt spiked up.
> 
> could it be the calplex that doesnt like my tapwater since its organic?.or is it the airstone?does anyone have any thoughts why this keeps happening?


What is your water temp in the rez?


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## ShoAL paTroL (Jul 4, 2009)

orzz said:


> What is your water temp in the rez?


71 iam not sure how warm it is during the day.i was told i didnt need to chill this res with sensi bloom.also i have some snow ultra in there and the bottle recomends not running an airstone.


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## orzz (Jul 4, 2009)

ShoAL paTroL said:


> 71 iam not sure how warm it is during the day.i was told i didnt need to chill this res with sensi bloom.also i have some snow ultra in there and the bottle recomends not running an airstone.


I would check to make sure it is staying around 71 during the day also.

Is your rez light proof?


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## ShoAL paTroL (Jul 4, 2009)

orzz said:


> I would check to make sure it is staying around 71 during the day also.
> 
> Is your rez light proof?


ok ill check that.how hot is to hot?as for the light,i run all my res under my tables and black plastic around the sides of the tables.i just got done doing a bleach wash on my pumps and rez.i refilled my rez and left that calplex out and added some zone.i guess have to start using r/o water but dont have the funds for one of those set up.


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## orzz (Jul 4, 2009)

ShoAL paTroL said:


> ok ill check that.how hot is to hot?as for the light,i run all my res under my tables and black plastic around the sides of the tables.i just got done doing a bleach wash on my pumps and rez.i refilled my rez and left that calplex out and added some zone.i guess have to start using r/o water but dont have the funds for one of those set up.


You may be able to get away with just using a SmallBoy or TallBoy 
filter instead of a r/o system.
SmallBoy is ~$80
TallBoy is ~ $160

Anything over 70 F is getting too warm for me. I have found that at 70 and adding Hygrozyme and Guardian MY no funk grows in my rez's. I also have tops for the rez's.


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## GypsyBush (Jul 4, 2009)

hydroponic Juicy Fruit...


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## GypsyBush (Jul 4, 2009)

hydroponic bagseed...


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## ShoAL paTroL (Jul 5, 2009)

thats some top shelf gypsy
good work


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## GypsyBush (Jul 5, 2009)

Thanks Bro...

Here's some more Hydroponic Juicy Fruit...

Woot Woot for HYDRO!!!


----------



## wannabee (Jul 5, 2009)

B E A U T I F U L! Those are so plump and juicy! and what trichs - gotta be good smoke!


----------



## GypsyBush (Jul 5, 2009)

wannabee said:


> B E A U T I F U L! Those are so plump and juicy! and what trichs - gotta be good smoke!


Very Fruity... not the most potent, but with a very distinct "heady" high...


----------



## Michaeljackson (Jul 7, 2009)

have 8 kush plants, 4 og and 4 purple. closet rig, 600w about 1.5 -2 ft obove plants. good air circulation.. doesnt get too hot, fan bolowing. Im starting with distilled water, ph down to high 5s, and ppm at arond 600 (bloom yellow bottles A and B- at 270ppm each, ... pretty close to anyways.. couting with a meter. and root 30-50. Still in veg state starting second week. Plants about one foot and look pretty good except the three of them (middle row) have some leaves that got dry, yellow-very yellow!!!, brittle, some breaking..while the rest of the plant looks much healthier.. the other plants all are a little droopy.

this is my first grow and ive been trying to read as much and ask as many questions as possible so forgive me if it sounds amature. Am i doing anything that is probably causing these plants to yellow? 
also, when do i start trimming them for growth? anybody have og experience that can give me the low down? much appreciated!!!


----------



## budwar (Jul 9, 2009)

in aero if u have a male, killing it doesnt damages females? if roots are growed together?


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## thinkhigh (Jul 13, 2009)

budwar said:


> in aero if u have a male, killing it doesnt damages females? if roots are growed together?



No it wont hurt the females. Just leave the roots right where they are. Just cut it off at the base of the stem.


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## GypsyBush (Jul 13, 2009)

thinkhigh said:


> No it wont hurt the females. Just leave the roots right where they are. Just cut it off at the base of the stem.


Really?

I thought a mass of dead roots in your system would cause all kind of trouble with pythium and root rot...

But what do I know... I don't do aero...


----------



## deckweed (Jul 14, 2009)

potroast said:


> All right! Hydroponics is what I know, and hydroponics is the way I grow!
> 
> This forum will be great, we can discuss anything hydro. No dirtbags here, We haul water!
> 
> ...


What do I need to start?


----------



## lightbulb6773 (Jul 14, 2009)

Did you build your own system or buy it from online sellers, such as StealthHydro. I have been trying to figure out the costs differences and want to get you opinions.

lightbulb - Stay lit bro


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## VictorVIcious (Jul 15, 2009)

deckweed said:


> What do I need to start?


Water. VV



> lightbulb6773 Did you build your own system or buy it from online sellers, such as StealthHydro. I have been trying to figure out the costs differences and want to get you opinions.
> 
> lightbulb - Stay lit bro


Well... if you have more time than money, build it, if you have more money than you have time, buy it.
The pre-built systems have features built into them that you can not duplicate for less. The flood trays I bought and discussed it a DIY thread have better drainage built in to the tray than you could make, so I buy the trays and build a table to hold them. Now. lol
There are several threads in the DIY section, probably one for any system you can make, and they will range from 'ghetto set-ups' that work to Mercedes. VV


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## ekoostikdump (Jul 16, 2009)

I was told that optimum conditions in hydro is..... res temp 58 degrees, air temp with co2 is 84 degrees, ph 5.8, and 40% humidity. My question is do optimum conditons vary between strains?


----------



## richerich (Jul 18, 2009)

i posted this elsewhere on the site but why not post again....my hydroton is consistantly turning green every grow no matter how clean i keep my table...is it normal?


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## VictorVIcious (Jul 19, 2009)

ekoostikdump said:


> I was told that optimum conditions in hydro is..... res temp 58 degrees, air temp with co2 is 84 degrees, ph 5.8, and 40% humidity. My question is do optimum conditons vary between strains?


Possibly. Some strains may do better in higher temps, this would be strains developed near the equator. Some strains may do better in cooler climates, these would be strains that were developed farther from the equator. For all practical purposes, if you can get the conditions you list, your plants will do just fine. VV 

richerich *hydroton*


> i posted this elsewhere on the site but why not post again....my hydroton is consistantly turning green every grow no matter how clean i keep my table...is it normal?


It must be normal, algea doesn't have any unnatural powers, it grows when the conditions are right. If light is hitting the water and the temperature of the water is 70 degrees or above, algea can grow, it doesn't have much to do with how 'clean' the table is. If you provide more detail and a picture, we might be able to help. VV


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## 420johnny (Jul 20, 2009)

Can someone tell me why hydro fucks people up? or at least why i think it fucks people up? 

I've been smoking mainly bush for years but mates i know who smoke mega chronically strong hydro have got psychosis and can't smoke anymore.

Is this becuase the plants are grown incorrectly (too much nutrients at the end of the plants lifecycle) or is hydro really not that good for you?

I do want to grow hydroponically someday but just not sure about that one thing. I know it doesn't taste as good as bush (grown in soil) weed but it sure gets you stoned from smoking less.


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## GypsyBush (Jul 20, 2009)

420johnny said:


> Can someone tell me why hydro fucks people up? or at least why i think it fucks people up?
> 
> I've been smoking mainly bush for years but mates i know who smoke mega chronically strong hydro have got psychosis and can't smoke anymore.
> 
> ...



A controlled environment may produce a highr THC content VS outdoors...

But I assure you, if you do it right, there is nothing toxic about hydro...

Just follow a PROVEN recipe and you will be golden from day one...

Hydro is growing scientifically, by the numbers...

Easy as baking a cake, if you follow the recipe...

Best of luck...

Check here for one of many kick ass PROVEN recipes for success..

Get a harvest every 2 weeks


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## 420johnny (Jul 20, 2009)

GypsyBush said:


> A controlled environment may produce a highr THC content VS outdoors...
> 
> But I assure you, if you do it right, there is nothing toxic about hydro...
> 
> ...


yeah SOG sounds like a good 'recipe' hahahhaa. 
I think if i wanted to sell abit to help me cover rent/other living expenses/the big power bill i would get more people where i live want the high so hydro is better.

but mate the stuff one of my mates who has psychosis was smoking, it musta been laced or it was the strongest bud i'd ever smoked...i couldnt move after one cone of it. I find bush more giggily than hydro, with bush theres no chance of me holding straight when im getting food but hydro its easier.


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## GypsyBush (Jul 20, 2009)

You can tailor that recipe from a 150w HPS to 1 million watts...

as big or as little... just takes a little math...

Best of luck


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## 420johnny (Jul 21, 2009)

GypsyBush said:


> You can tailor that recipe from a 150w HPS to 1 million watts...
> 
> as big or as little... just takes a little math...
> 
> Best of luck


Well i'm still living at home but am preparing to move out within two months or so (need to get some money together, pay bond money to rent a place, etc). 

Whats about the sweet spot for HPS lights? i was thinking 600w would do for a first time indoor grower? I think i'll have to grow in soil for a while to raise some money for some decent hydroponics equipment.


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## GypsyBush (Jul 21, 2009)

420johnny said:


> i was thinking 600w would do for a first time indoor grower?



A 600 WILL BE PERFECT!!!

You will never have to upgrade...

If you do it right, you will be able to get a lb per light consistently...

I say go for it... I would never trade my 600s for 1ks...


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## Twistedfunk (Jul 21, 2009)

GypsyBush said:


> A 600 WILL BE PERFECT!!!
> 
> You will never have to upgrade...
> 
> ...


why not? isn't 1000k 400w more than 600w? So wouldn't that be 400w more light for your plants?


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## orzz (Jul 21, 2009)

Twistedfunk said:


> why not? isn't 1000k 400w more than 600w? So wouldn't that be 400w more light for your plants?


It is more light but also more heat and you can't put them as close as a 600. I have 4 600's and like GB wouldn't trade for 1000's.

I grow in a tents and do ebb & flood in 3x3 trays. The 600's cover the 3x3 trays perfectly.


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## 420johnny (Jul 22, 2009)

I think i might try indoor soil at first, like get a few good grows, sell, make profit (i'll force myself not to try more than a few grams), buy more gear.


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## Twistedfunk (Jul 22, 2009)

orzz said:


> It is more light but also more heat and you can't put them as close as a 600. I have 4 600's and like GB wouldn't trade for 1000's.
> 
> I grow in a tents and do ebb & flood in 3x3 trays. The 600's cover the 3x3 trays perfectly.


 
Gotcha! Thanks =D


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## ROBERTSMITH (Jul 24, 2009)

I want to know if the pre built grow boxes work as advertized


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## VictorVIcious (Jul 26, 2009)

ROBERTSMITH said:


> I want to know if the pre built grow boxes work as advertized


Then buy one and try it. Most failures are operator error not equipment failure. The pre-built grow boxes will work if you do.
I have recommended folks buy the first one. When you see how simple some of the systems are, have time to look at what the manufactures did and why, you may be able to make your own. It may even cost less.........if you have an idea of ....... VV


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## KeenenB (Jul 28, 2009)

Me and my friend plan on growing in his closet using a hydroponic system. The problem is we dont know what type, i guess we're looking for the cheapest. We have a 10 gallon fish tank with air stones in it that we can use. What would be the cheapest closet set up using this?


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## doniawon (Jul 31, 2009)

a fish tank?? dont use the fish tank.. do a simple ebb and flow or bucket system. when looking for info include dimensions, light used, etc. etc.. 

what is it about fish tanks that makes everyone want to grow weed out of em', ? kinda like a toilet bowl ..


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## ShoAL paTroL (Aug 1, 2009)

KeenenB said:


> Me and my friend plan on growing in his closet using a hydroponic system. The problem is we dont know what type, i guess we're looking for the cheapest. We have a 10 gallon fish tank with air stones in it that we can use. What would be the cheapest closet set up using this?


dont use a fishtank.u gotta go down to ur ponics shop and tell them ur grow plans and they will show what ur options are.


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## bigobear0868 (Aug 1, 2009)

potroast said:


> All right! Hydroponics is what I know, and hydroponics is the way I grow!
> 
> This forum will be great, we can discuss anything hydro. No dirtbags here, We haul water!
> 
> ...


How do i get to ur site i was downloading ur grow system an lost the sight . im from michigan an i just recieved my med maryjane card so im legal (as legal as possible) but im tryin to run ur system. it seems cost efficiant, and easy to do as a matter of fact im going to buy my supplies 2marrow so hook me up with ur site


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## Sgt. Green (Aug 2, 2009)

Question on PH level, do not have a ph meter, any cheap ways to test the water? How important is the ph level? I never worried about it when I grew with dirt, and I use distilled water with the Hydro, as I did with dirt.


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## thinkhigh (Aug 2, 2009)

Sgt. Green said:


> Question on PH level, do not have a ph meter, any cheap ways to test the water? How important is the ph level? I never worried about it when I grew with dirt, and I use distilled water with the Hydro, as I did with dirt.


The PH is very important. If your PH gets off then you block important nutes from the plant. I would say that the cheapest way to check PH is to get the PH strips. They are not as accurant as a digital meter but they will work.


----------



## Sgt. Green (Aug 2, 2009)

Ok, thanks. What about aluminum foil, would it be a waist of time to use until I can get some Mylar?


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## GypsyBush (Aug 2, 2009)

Sgt. Green said:


> Ok, thanks. What about aluminum foil, would it be a waist of time to use until I can get some Mylar?


I vote for white paint or panda film...

Mylar is excellent when it is clean and spotless... it looses big time when it is dirty... and it gets dirty...

Foil absorbs heat... it is your enemy... it also may cause hot spots by concentrating light beams with a crease or a fold... I say stay away from it...

Flat white is the best in my opinion...


----------



## budwar (Aug 4, 2009)

my box is 30 cm depth is it enought to prevent root sucking to water pump? And how to do it? Or are there water pumps that dont need to bee under the water? Or make another bucket for water pump that connects to it?


----------



## onship (Aug 7, 2009)

Great post Wes. I'll continue watch for your info and tips from Tech Mike. I'm a 1st time hydro grower in a Aerogarden. Got 7 plants going into week 3. So far so good. I am using this 1st grow as a learning experience before buying some choice seeds. We shall see what the journey brings.


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## n8herb (Aug 10, 2009)

i jus got my hydro system set up. everyones tellin me to get c02 set up in the room to. will that really effect my yield??


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## n8herb (Aug 10, 2009)

i mean i have 10 gdp set up under a 1000 hps. there all bout 3 feet tall an growing good jus wanna no if c02 is worth doin. first grow gimme advice thx


----------



## peanut81 (Aug 10, 2009)

i was using gh hard water micro but recently bought a ro unit and i need to figure out if i need to use cal mag or if i can go with out it? if i do need it how much should i use i have read everything from 1 ml per gal all the way up to 10 ml per gal my water reads 0 ppm on a truncheon thanks for any help


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## n8herb (Aug 10, 2009)

how does this look?


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## GypsyBush (Aug 10, 2009)

looks ok to me... but... any particular reason why you are using netpots?


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## GypsyBush (Aug 10, 2009)

wait how's this work? is it ebb flow?


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## n8herb (Aug 10, 2009)

ya its ebb flow. my water tank is off to the side. this is my first grow but for a first timer i think its goin great. i cant wait for flowering


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## GypsyBush (Aug 10, 2009)

can you show us a pic of the whole set up?

I am puzzed by the res being off to the side...

But they do look healthy...

what size light you got?


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## n8herb (Aug 10, 2009)

ya when i get home ill take some more pics. can u see the tubes to the right one of them is the fill up tube an the other is a drain tube. both hooked up to pumps. only reason i did it that way is cus i didnt want a hassle when i changed out the water an nutrients. and my light is a 1000 watt hps


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## n8herb (Aug 10, 2009)

as soon as i figure out what im really doin im gonna have 3 1000s hooked up in this room. this is jus a test run. ill get pics up of it


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## MJD (Aug 10, 2009)

how long can a plant grow before it needs nutes?(i.e. how long can it just last growing on water and light


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## n8herb (Aug 11, 2009)

mjd, i think that depends on alot of things. ill leave the advice to the experts though haha. but what kinda light are u talkin about? check out my system on the page befor this its doin great so far


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## GypsyBush (Aug 11, 2009)

here's my latest hydroponic adventure...



The Girls all together...








Such a pretty canopy.. I just giggle...








And I can only guess that big plants turn FAST.. . cause I'm starting to see some MAJOR action on the tops... ALL of them...












































I kinda have a feeling this branch is going to need some MAJOR support.. guess that's what FIMming does.. eh?!?!?!









ok, some more budlets...






































They sure filled in ... I guess sticking another plant in the middle helped to... 




















Here are the under-sides....

I have a feeling I need to consider a major prune session here... but I have been waiting, hoping that some might stretch enough and reach for th elight.. But I gotta say things are getting pretty full...





















Here's a spotlight on Cinderella 99 by Brothers Grimm...

























And here's some "crappy genetics" Bagseed...


----------



## ganjadave2009 (Aug 11, 2009)

2 weeks into flowering ppp. white pistols shooting up all over tops and side nodes. How much long before buds start appearing?kiss-ass


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## n8herb (Aug 11, 2009)

WOW beautiful gypsy


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## JHazey (Aug 25, 2009)

do you know about dealzer's real big hydro-growbox? Im just curious about the yeild, and how many flowering plants you can really fit in there. Super Closet Deluxe Hydroponics Grow Box System 24 - 48 Plant 72"H X 36"W X 24"D is the 1st one. 72"H x 72"W x24"D is the specs for the 2nd says you can fit 44 - 88 adult plants up to 4.5 ft tall. And 3rd which im really lookin at buying is the Super Closet Back 2 Back Hydroponics Grow Box System 48 - 96 Plant, 72"H x 48"W x 36"D
Growth potential of 48, 72, or 96 adult plants up to 4.5 ft tall??? Thank you for you're time!


----------



## britishred (Aug 26, 2009)

am new to the forum do u have any info on see ov green


----------



## ganjadave2009 (Aug 26, 2009)

couple questions please


----------



## ganjadave2009 (Aug 26, 2009)

anyone here?


----------



## shajuggalo (Aug 31, 2009)

man, im still a lil confused on hydro..

i thought hydro grew under water. not hydro plants grow above water just the roots are submerged.


----------



## Shong (Sep 1, 2009)

Crisis ??????? Hope not. 
Bubba kush and white widow Hydro ebb n flow set up .
19 days into Flowering and I left the light on when it should be off . Of course everything is on A timer , but just the regular light on a switch on. 
I just kept everything 12/12 and acted like it was nothing. Am I wrong or will they Herm? Hope not.
Anyone who really knows, I could really use the piece of mind. 
Thanks for the Help if so !!!


----------



## purpleplantsmoker (Sep 2, 2009)

i never grew b4 wanted to know lowest price and the smallest space i can grow in


----------



## DAMIANG (Sep 2, 2009)

thanks for the info


----------



## medman4montana (Sep 3, 2009)

I have built a ebb n gro hydro system and I need as much info on how to set up how often I should flood the buckets and how long should I let them run when feeding?


----------



## supertank (Sep 5, 2009)

is it wise to use a airstone in nft systms the faq isnt workin today


----------



## doniawon (Sep 5, 2009)

airstone in the resivoire, with all systems is a good idea.. it keeps the water oxygen levels high which helps keep pathogens and algae down... 

leaving your 60 watt bulb on in the grow room is not good.. switch it out with a green party bulb.. cfl lowest wattage green party bulb.. and youll never have to worry about that again.. or christmas tree lights .. green of course..

ebb and grow cycles change depending on the volume of media and typed of media used.. general instructions say use a 15 min timer 4 times a day.. i would go 6 for babies with small roots and and gradually lower to four.. heavy algae build up is a good sign of your media being "too wet" ..


----------



## racerboy71 (Sep 5, 2009)

ive got a few questions for all you hydro guys and gals out there... i just finshed my first indoor grow, in soil under a 250hps closetgrow.. i was looking into a simple hydro set=up for a second attempt, when i ran across this articel in Skunk magazine, where the authour says to use a 50 50 mix of vermiculate and perlite in place of a soilmix.. then he said to just water and feed with nutes from above as needed.. sounds nice and easy, and a good way to get my feet wet in an attempt at some hydro growing. here are my questions.. i will be growing from seeds.. in the dirt, i just used the paper towell method, to good results.. what is the best way to germ for this type of medium? would i be better off germing straight in a rockwool cube, then transpanting that into thier resting place in the vermiculate perlite blend? any kind of help with this would be appreciated..


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## racerboy71 (Sep 5, 2009)

hey gypsy.. how does that cindy 99 smoke? i was thinking of getting some beans.. some of yours would do just fine instead though, lol.. but really, nice plants and really nice nugs.. nice job.. i just got done my first indoor grow and was pretty happy with the results, but i would love to one day b able to grow plants and nugs like the ones that you grow.. nice.. keep it up and spread the love..


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## GypsyBush (Sep 5, 2009)

racerboy71 said:


> hey gypsy.. how does that cindy 99 smoke? i was thinking of getting some beans.. some of yours would do just fine instead though, lol.. but really, nice plants and really nice nugs.. nice job.. i just got done my first indoor grow and was pretty happy with the results, but i would love to one day b able to grow plants and nugs like the ones that you grow.. nice.. keep it up and spread the love..


Thanks Bro...

C99 is a grower's dream... in my humble opinion...

Fast Blooming...

Very ACTIVE high...

I highly recommend it..

Oh.. and I will re-read your previous post and reply...


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## GypsyBush (Sep 5, 2009)

racerboy71 said:


> ive got a few questions for all you hydro guys and gals out there... i just finshed my first indoor grow, in soil under a 250hps closetgrow.. i was looking into a simple hydro set=up for a second attempt, when i ran across this articel in Skunk magazine, where the authour says to use a 50 50 mix of vermiculate and perlite in place of a soilmix.. then he said to just water and feed with nutes from above as needed.. sounds nice and easy, and a good way to get my feet wet in an attempt at some hydro growing. here are my questions.. i will be growing from seeds.. in the dirt, i just used the paper towell method, to good results.. what is the best way to germ for this type of medium? would i be better off germing straight in a rockwool cube, then transpanting that into thier resting place in the vermiculate perlite blend? any kind of help with this would be appreciated..


What you are talking about is something that I am not familiar with...

But Xare may be able to help you out...

check...

https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/210779-400-watt-2-liter-hempy.html

and Best of Luck...


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## doniawon (Sep 5, 2009)

seed descrip in my "rosenthal" book.. says cindy 99 is sat and takes 99 days to complete .. is that true gypsy.. if so not really recomended for indoor huh.. unless you like to roll like that..


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## GypsyBush (Sep 5, 2009)

Brother's Grimm call it a 7 week (flowering period) strain...

Mine is DONE, and I mean MATURE at week 8...

It packs the weight as fast as an Indica.. but it has mostly a Sativa high...

It's considered by the "old school" (hippies..) growers as the "Holy Grail"...

I'd say she's a fast slut...


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## MrHydro (Sep 6, 2009)

racerboy71 said:


> ive got a few questions for all you hydro guys and gals out there... i just finshed my first indoor grow, in soil under a 250hps closetgrow.. i was looking into a simple hydro set=up for a second attempt, when i ran across this articel in Skunk magazine, where the authour says to use a 50 50 mix of vermiculate and perlite in place of a soilmix.. then he said to just water and feed with nutes from above as needed.. sounds nice and easy, and a good way to get my feet wet in an attempt at some hydro growing. here are my questions.. i will be growing from seeds.. in the dirt, i just used the paper towell method, to good results.. what is the best way to germ for this type of medium? would i be better off germing straight in a rockwool cube, then transpanting that into thier resting place in the vermiculate perlite blend? any kind of help with this would be appreciated..


Racerboy,
I would suggest using Rapid Rooter cubes for your seedlings. They are more neutral then Rockwool and have an easy base to get those roots growin through. I have used them with great success and less hassles with PH balancing.
For easy design setups for your first hydro go to http://gbhydroinfo.blogspot.com


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## Jtoth3ustin (Sep 9, 2009)

oooo whats the official name? cinderella 99?
[email protected]


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## GypsyBush (Sep 9, 2009)

Jtoth3ustin said:


> oooo whats the official name? cinderella 99?
> [email protected]


you got it...


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## Jtoth3ustin (Sep 9, 2009)

sweet. I'm picking up a new strain next month. any idea how much a 5 or 10 pack of regular runs ya?


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## GypsyBush (Sep 9, 2009)

no idea... I have never bought seeds...


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## JME02100 (Sep 12, 2009)

5-10 seeds regular will run you anywhere from 25-100 bucks depending on strain...Fem seeds 5-10 pack is about 50-150 also depending on strains


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## igotit (Sep 12, 2009)

im a beginner if anyone could help me , ive had a plant for about 2- 3 months , it was doing good until the leaves started to wilt and look like it was turning yellow . can anyone give me advice im growing the hydroponics water farm .


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## doniawon (Sep 13, 2009)

igotit said:


> im a beginner if anyone could help me , ive had a plant for about 2- 3 months , it was doing good until the leaves started to wilt and look like it was turning yellow . can anyone give me advice im growing the hydroponics water farm .


is it starting at the bottom of the plant and goes to the top? does it mainly involve the shade leaves and is it the enitire leaves turning yellow.. or is it the veins tips.. ?? usually best to include a picture.. i belive your just nitrogen defficient.. so i would flush for a day.. then add a veging nutrient.. faq will help


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## SMOKINLADY (Sep 14, 2009)

the site was great. I usually start off with the aerogrow then transfer to dirt. well my second plant. It was great. it grew too huge but the out come was wonderful.
New start .. this time with two at the same time. my question is.. can 2 plants substain in the aerogrow till flowering or do you transfer to a bigger tub?


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## par0008 (Sep 15, 2009)

I was just wondering if i have this set up right... My friend helped me do it but im paranoid (might have a little to do with bud lol) about if there is enough moisture getting down to the roots... aka it i should have some better way of watering them also how often for how long? im also using the foxfarm nutrient trio at full strength and wondering if i should be doing that. Thanks so much!


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## doniawon (Sep 15, 2009)

par0008 said:


> I was just wondering if i have this set up right... My friend helped me do it but im paranoid (might have a little to do with bud lol) about if there is enough moisture getting down to the roots... aka it i should have some better way of watering them also how often for how long? im also using the foxfarm nutrient trio at full strength and wondering if i should be doing that. Thanks so much!


 
use distilled water only for the next 10 to 20 days.. i think your cubes look a little on the dry side.. how is it being watered?? keep them wet but not soaked and let them dry slightly through out the day..


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## aubud (Sep 15, 2009)

Right now I'm just checking on them throughout the day and watering when they feel dry, but I do have a timer that i want to set up. Its currently hooked up with a 2gph nozzle that you can see in the pic. How long should i water for and how often?


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## igotit (Sep 16, 2009)

i flushed them an gave it some florabloom. its not that yellow anymore, they just look like they are just dying. im bout 2 junk the big 1 an start from scratch. i got one 100 watt, an a 75 watt heating lightz from petco an i want 2 go 2 cfl lightz if that will help if u kno any thin bout that


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## aubud (Sep 17, 2009)

Hey again... 
IM back with another issue.... I think my plants are looking a little droopy/ a little yellow? I took them off the nutes immedietly after you told me after and have been using filtered water only watering for 15 min every 3 hours (Technically every 2h45min). This morning i changed it from every 3 h to every 6h for fear that this may be caused by over watering.. Any help would be much appreciated, Thanks!


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## doniawon (Sep 17, 2009)

are you keeping your ph peged at 6.5??? just keep an eye on the ph and water them with about 8 oz of water 2 or 3 times a day.. keep them in at least 18 hours of medium intense light. they look okay to me, i think they just need to get some roots established in the lava rock.. ??? i wouldnt go poking anymore toothpicks through the root zone and make sure you have good drainage.. best of luck


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## bdotwells (Sep 18, 2009)

drove all the way to the hydro store to buy a bottle of sensi grow today... and dropped it!!! spilled everywhere, i managed to save half the bottle and i poured the rest into an empty bottle of shampoo. I did my best to clean out all the shampoo but im afraid there was still some in there. Do you guys think the shampoo will effect the nutes?? Should i just take the L and buy another bottle?? Fuck... i didnt get any use out of it...


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## 2ill4u (Sep 20, 2009)

man thanks for the share, sorry couldn't help but laugh a little after reading your post, you know how they say you shouldn't go to the grocery store hungry, well kinda same thing with the hydro store- don't smoke and roll to the hydro store. j/k man i dont know if you were high or not, but you just made my day not look so bad. 



bdotwells said:


> drove all the way to the hydro store to buy a bottle of sensi grow today... and dropped it!!! spilled everywhere, i managed to save half the bottle and i poured the rest into an empty bottle of shampoo. I did my best to clean out all the shampoo but im afraid there was still some in there. Do you guys think the shampoo will effect the nutes?? Should i just take the L and buy another bottle?? Fuck... i didnt get any use out of it...


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## bdotwells (Sep 20, 2009)

2ill4u said:


> man thanks for the share, sorry couldn't help but laugh a little after reading your post, you know how they say you shouldn't go to the grocery store hungry, well kinda same thing with the hydro store- don't smoke and roll to the hydro store. j/k man i dont know if you were high or not, but you just made my day not look so bad.


haha its ok man i was completely blazed. Hence me putting the rest in a shampoo bottle


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## pwizzle (Sep 22, 2009)

Is it possible to use MG water soluble plant food for hydro nutes?


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## doniawon (Sep 22, 2009)

not recommended at all..


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## MEANGREEN69 (Sep 23, 2009)

hello everyone just had a Q about PPM's : im running a sog in a 4x4 tray with the

ppms at about 1400 to 1500 PPM to start then let it go up to as high as 2100+ 

PPM..but i havest once a week so new clones go in once a week as well....the Q is

will to high of a BLOOM nute to early in flower have any ill doings to my bud

production??? thanks, meangreen


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## doniawon (Sep 24, 2009)

MEANGREEN69 said:


> hello everyone just had a Q about PPM's : im running a sog in a 4x4 tray with the
> 
> ppms at about 1400 to 1500 PPM to start then let it go up to as high as 2100+
> 
> ...


1500 +.. ppm.. for clones is a horrible idea.. in about two weeks they will show all types of lockout and burn.. 
maybe if you could get 2 3x3 tables one with an 600-800 ppm and the other 1000-1500 .. adjusted weekly.. maybe that would be a better idea..


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## GypsyBush (Sep 24, 2009)

doniawon said:


> 1500 +.. ppm.. for clones is a horrible idea.. in about two weeks they will show all types of lockout and burn..
> maybe if you could get 2 3x3 tables one with an 600-800 ppm and the other 1000-1500 .. adjusted weekly.. maybe that would be a better idea..



Well I dunno what to say...

I run ONE RES for the whole thing...

1400ppm from day one top harvest..

Perpetual harvest with new clones going in every week...

NEVER HAD TROUBLE with1400ppm from day ONE...


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## doniawon (Sep 24, 2009)

GypsyBush said:


> Well I dunno what to say...
> 
> I run ONE RES for the whole thing...
> 
> ...


i remember you saying that gypsy.. i tried it with my bubblegum a couple times back and i just kept seeing problems.. i guess it depends on the strain.


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## MEANGREEN69 (Sep 24, 2009)

thanks for the replys guys, but i have no probs with the clones going in the

1400+ppm, i veg them for a week befor theygo in and they really take off once they

get in there...what i really want to know is if a SUPER BLOOM nute like KOOLBLOOM 

(DRY) will make the newer plants buds smaller.. is it to much to soon?? so far i cant 

tell but just thought some of u guys mite have so info on that??..thanks meangreen


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## Freak0Nature (Oct 1, 2009)

Hey Everyone, so i trolled around for an hour this morning and about 2 hours last night looking for the answer to 2 questions, and i couldnt find an exact answer, or at least one that satisfies me.

1. Everyone talks about nutrients and what not, when actually PURCHASING them does one need to buy EVERYTHING listed in there charts such as http://www.advancednutrients.com/nutcalc3public/
or would the micro/grow/bloom be enough on there own?

2. Can i purpetually clone the clones of clones of clones of clones? ive seen a couple topics but none seem to hit this on the head(that i could find)
what im more specificly curious about is if one could have 2 hydroponic systems, one specializing in veg and one in bloom(and a diycloner), and both using the same tubs with net pots so all you have to do is switch the lids when its time to flower. 
The idea is that before each batch is switched over to a flowering stage i clone each plant, root it, and start veging it in the newly empty veg system
*there guaranteed to be feminized because the first batch im going to start out with a "mother" which is going to just be one plant basically so i have a good begining to clones


(in before= just keep a mother, assume there is no room for a seperate mother to be kept and finances dont really allow it)

Thanks you all for your years of advice and help.


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## aubud (Oct 1, 2009)

Freak0Nature said:


> 1. Everyone talks about nutrients and what not, when actually PURCHASING them does one need to buy EVERYTHING listed in there charts such as http://www.advancednutrients.com/nutcalc3public/
> or would the micro/grow/bloom be enough on there own?


Hey, im not gonna act like I know everything about this stuff cause its my first grow... but i am fairly certain that if you use the trio from AN (Mico/grow/bloom) you should be fine. The other stuff would be icing on the cake. As for the cloning of clones, theoretically you should be fine since each plant is a genetic fully functioning copy. Just make sure they wont be too small that cutting a clone will over stress them....

Now onto my original reason for coming to this thread lol... 
What are some good PH buffers? Im using the FoxFarm Nute trio and im experiencing some pretty rapid PH jumps (right now they were at 6.68 when 12 hours ago i just lowered them down to 6.5 from 6.7 last night!! I know the PH is supposed to be ( in a perfect world) around 5.9-5.3 but I am hing an downright impossible time trying to keep it there! What do i do Please help! + rep for help!!!kiss-ass


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## kushing (Oct 2, 2009)

what does the term flood mean and mums?


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## doniawon (Oct 2, 2009)

flood is a watering cycle. in a flood and drain, or ebb and flow, the media in watered in flood cycles and then the water drains and the media drys out and pulls oxygen to the root system. 
mums is a mother plant .. a plant used to take genetic replicas from for more stable production rates and guaranteed females..


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## kahtn (Oct 3, 2009)

whats a good flood and drain cycle??? im doing 15min on and 45min off... is this to much?


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## doniawon (Oct 4, 2009)

really depends on the set up.. i think 4-8 15 minute floods in 24 hrs gives the best results... your plants will tell you when your watering too much.. also youll get algae growth at the base of the plant or on the top of the media (rockwool, hydroton) if your flooding too much.. never let you roots dry up completely


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## dragit (Oct 4, 2009)

watch this movie it will show u a cheap way to make it http://www.pot-tv.net/archive/shows/pottvshowse-2993.html


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## lilbrawler187 (Oct 6, 2009)

Hey...im completely new to this...Is it feasible for me to set up a small hydro system for 6-8 plants for less than 350 dollars?or would I need more?and what strain would you recommend?(i was looking at big buds but want other opinions)


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## kahtn (Oct 6, 2009)

unless your running 1000 watters dont bother with big bud it comes out airy... atleast thats my opinion.... for a cheap yet great yield id go with allmost any thing from nirvana... blackberry papya bublicious etc... there all great yields then you can reinvest in to the more expensive stuff... good luck.


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## Todd P (Oct 6, 2009)

shajuggalo said:


> man, im still a lil confused on hydro..
> 
> i thought hydro grew under water. not hydro plants grow above water just the roots are submerged.


what you are refering to is caLLED dwc (DEEP WATER CULTURE)


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## jr2155 (Oct 6, 2009)

during veg i herd i shouldn'd change my water. is this true or false?


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## doniawon (Oct 7, 2009)

change your water once a week.. regardless


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## slanga (Oct 8, 2009)

anyone know how to make a easy 4 plant hydro system


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## diesel7 (Oct 14, 2009)

hey guys...im about to start growing wit hydroponics and im maddd confused how to start off...i dunno wat to do with the pump or how to set anything up..can someone explain to me how this works!


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## diesel7 (Oct 14, 2009)

anyoneeeee??


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## smokingrubber (Oct 16, 2009)

For anyone just starting out, watch "I Grow Chronic" by Mr Green.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=awdAfzAmmzs

Thats part 1 of 9. You can find the rest on youtube. It's an excellent educational video with step by step instructions for setting up your first hydro grow. It's a great place to start!!!!


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## ShoAL paTroL (Oct 17, 2009)

diesel7 said:


> anyoneeeee??


youtube...i like mr.green


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## High Hopes (Oct 19, 2009)

I was wondering if someone could help me. I seen ready to go aero systems and ready to go drip systems aroud the same price witch one is easier to keep up with and has better yeilds.


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## smokingrubber (Oct 20, 2009)

Aero or Flood can be used all the way to harvest. Drip works best for growing, not flowering. Watch a few videos on the topic.


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## bombkush (Oct 22, 2009)

How soon do i need to start feeding nutrients into my babies. I heard some guy say something about waiting till flowering?!? Shouldnt i start with a little bit right off the bat?


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## jjmd (Oct 22, 2009)

I start my germination (rockwool) with 10% nutes and continue from that. 2 weeks then after that growth nutes. starting slowly.


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## hydro grower (Oct 23, 2009)

I want to take my plant growing to another level , i was thinking about spending the decent money and start up whit a 600 W lamp and a Atami Wilma 16 Pot Hydroponics Systems. And the only thing that really worry me is the nutrient how do i add the bloom and when. And how do i add ph + and - (i gonna buy a ph meter) the question really is , is it really that difficult as i hear people say to go from soil to hydro and is is worth it !!And last question what were the kinda herbs and or flowers that neutralize weed smell so that i can plant some to 
I hope i hear from you guy's and i'm looking forward to replys


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## smokingrubber (Oct 23, 2009)

hydro grower said:


> I want to take my plant growing to another level , i was thinking about spending the decent money and start up whit a 600 W lamp and a Atami Wilma 16 Pot Hydroponics Systems. And the only thing that really worry me is the nutrient how do i add the bloom and when. And how do i add ph + and - (i gonna buy a ph meter) the question really is , is it really that difficult as i hear people say to go from soil to hydro and is is worth it !!And last question what were the kinda herbs and or flowers that neutralize weed smell so that i can plant some to
> I hope i hear from you guy's and i'm looking forward to replys


Adding nutes and ph is easy. After everything is set up, your primary job with "hydro" is to maintain the tub of water. That means that every other week you have to empty it, clean it, and refill it. When it's full, you add your nutes recipe (whatever your flavor) and check the ppm. Same thing with ph. Add a little, stir, check, and repeat. After a while, you'll be able to change everything in minutes.

To neutralize the smell, get a "can filter". If you want to mask the smell, raise skunks.


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## bombkush (Oct 23, 2009)

i can help with hydro. send me a message.. be back around 11 central


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## bombkush (Oct 24, 2009)

Why doesnt anyone talk about hydroponics.


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## #1Raiderfan420 (Oct 24, 2009)

bombkush said:


> How soon do i need to start feeding nutrients into my babies. I heard some guy say something about waiting till flowering?!? Shouldnt i start with a little bit right off the bat?


Start here-
https://www.rollitup.org/newbie-central/


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## High Hopes (Oct 24, 2009)

This is my first try at hydro i grew in soil for a while. I have 12 drip system the pots are only 3 inch. i grow under a 600 hps in a 4x4 area iam growng white rhino snow cap and blue venom. I would like to get at least 2 ounces per plant. Is it possible in 3inch net pots.


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## gator8 (Oct 24, 2009)

My first hydro grow.I have a ebb and flow system,plants in rockwool and hydroton rocks in 6' pots.The plants are ak-47/lowrider fem....I have a 400 watt mh light and am using sensi-grow and bloom for my nutes.My main question is how often to feed aday...They feed for 15 or 20 minutes when on.Any help?


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## NinjaToke (Oct 25, 2009)

How would I go about using this setup to its highest potential? And also because its difficult to flush with this all in one reservoir/grow tray can I leave the mixture in all grow long?


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## gator8 (Oct 25, 2009)

You have that set up wrong...Put the hydroton rocks in 5 or 6 inch net pots and put rockwool with plants in the pots down in the pellets so they are bareley covered.Then you can move your plants around when you drain and flush


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## gator8 (Oct 25, 2009)

Do it like this and you will have much better grow and easier


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## smokingrubber (Oct 26, 2009)

gator8 said:


> My first hydro grow.I have a ebb and flow system,plants in rockwool and hydroton rocks in 6' pots.The plants are ak-47/lowrider fem....I have a 400 watt mh light and am using sensi-grow and bloom for my nutes.My main question is how often to feed aday...They feed for 15 or 20 minutes when on.Any help?


That depends on how big the plants are. If you've had them in a seperate veg room and they're ready for flowering, you can water 4-5 times a day during the12 hr light period. If they're new babies and they're staying there from start to finish, start with once a day and watch for droop. When they request more water, give them another feeding . . . and so on.

6' pots huh?


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## NinjaToke (Oct 26, 2009)

gator8 said:


> Do it like this and you will have much better grow and easier



Thanks Gator, those pots you're using are the exact same ones I used for my first grow and the roots ended up very tightly packed in, unless I let the plants grow too tall. How long/large should I let plants get in this thing, last ones were cut down at about 3.5ft tall.


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## bombkush (Oct 29, 2009)

im having trouble with mine. i bought a 2000 dollar system and the temps are getting pretty high. if i keep it closed i get around 88 and if i open it, im only getting down to 78. That is with the lights on. when lights are off i can get it around 70- 75 which is all good... i have my a/c running fool power and it is 67 in the house. what can i do to control temp with it closed! i cant keep it open


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## smokingrubber (Oct 30, 2009)

bombkush said:


> im having trouble with mine. i bought a 2000 dollar system and the temps are getting pretty high. if i keep it closed i get around 88 and if i open it, im only getting down to 78. That is with the lights on. when lights are off i can get it around 70- 75 which is all good... i have my a/c running fool power and it is 67 in the house. what can i do to control temp with it closed! i cant keep it open


Need a little more info. Do you have an enclosed light hood? How big are the exhaust and intake line? Do you have a fan on the intake? What "system" did you buy for 2k?

Get that heat down FAST. Keep an eye on your humidity. Mold can develop rapidly.


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## laserbrn (Nov 3, 2009)

smokingrubber said:


> Need a little more info. Do you have an enclosed light hood? How big are the exhaust and intake line? Do you have a fan on the intake? What "system" did you buy for 2k?
> 
> Get that heat down FAST. Keep an eye on your humidity. Mold can develop rapidly.


They will survive at 88 degrees. It's not ideal, but it will work. I've grown in warmer. You may also want to just add Co2. It will help the plants deal with the heat and grow with more vigor anyway. Win-Win.


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## smokingrubber (Nov 4, 2009)

laserbrn said:


> They will survive at 88 degrees. It's not ideal, but it will work. I've grown in warmer. You may also want to just add Co2. It will help the plants deal with the heat and grow with more vigor anyway. Win-Win.


No it's not ideal at all. If you're seeing 88 when it closed on a normal day, you'll easily see 90+ when it gets warm outside. That kind of heat causes the humidity levels to skyrocket. MF'in Mold!

If Co2 helps solve that, wonderful! I'm not running it YET, but I will be very soon. Most important, make sure you're using an air-cooled hood and you've got a good source of fresh air.

This is not a cheap hobby when you want to do it right.


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## laserbrn (Nov 4, 2009)

smokingrubber said:


> No it's not ideal at all. If you're seeing 88 when it closed on a normal day, you'll easily see 90+ when it gets warm outside. That kind of heat causes the humidity levels to skyrocket. MF'in Mold!
> 
> If Co2 helps solve that, wonderful! I'm not running it YET, but I will be very soon. Most important, make sure you're using an air-cooled hood and you've got a good source of fresh air.
> 
> This is not a cheap hobby when you want to do it right.


What difference will it make what temperature it is outside? He's stated he's running his A/C and keeping the room it's in at 67 degrees. I'm assuming (because we don't have the information yet) that this $2000.00 is self contained - closed unit. 

There are a lot of ways to get temps down and they should be kept reasonably low (mid 70's), but the range for growin really is more like 72-90 degress. 

I would stop running your household A/C at full blast to keep the temps down. You may as well go out and buy weed then. You're cooling an entire home because you need one little space cooled. Get an A/C unit JUST for this. 

And please post more info about your setup so we can have a little better idea what options you may or may not have.

Pictures would be ideal as would a link to the MFG's website or an online retailer who sells it.


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## lilb2662 (Nov 4, 2009)

i was just wondering what is a good time period to water plants, so i know what to put on my timer


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## smokingrubber (Nov 4, 2009)

I haven't seen any $2k self-contained units. I've seen a lot of tents though, and you can easily spend $2k+ on accessories. Waiting for more information.




lilb2662 said:


> i was just wondering what is a good time period to water plants, so i know what to put on my timer


This is a hydo thread, so I'm going to assume that's your plan of attack. What stage of growth are you in?


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## lilb2662 (Nov 4, 2009)

i'm in the seedling stage


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## Despised Icon (Nov 4, 2009)

Hey what up everyone, i've been wondering about this question is i change my res every other weak; i always add water to the res every day when i see the water level has fallen, is this a terrible mistake on my part? Am i diluting the nut solution? Should i not worry about it and just change res every other weak like i have been just don't add water during the weak. Any help would be appreciated


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## smokingrubber (Nov 4, 2009)

Despised Icon said:


> Hey what up everyone, i've been wondering about this question is i change my res every other weak; i always add water to the res every day when i see the water level has fallen, is this a terrible mistake on my part? Am i diluting the nut solution? Should i not worry about it and just change res every other weak like i have been just don't add water during the weak. Any help would be appreciated


Posted by laserbrn:

When I start from seeds I feed them PLAIN water for ~ 2 weeks. By then they are on about their 3rd or 4th set of leaves. 

Veg feeding Schedule looks like this....

Week 1: 0 ppm
Week 2: 0 ppm
Week 3: 200ppm - Start the 3rd week with 50ppm. Increase by 50ppm each day until 200ppm is reached.
Week 4: 200ppm
Week 5: 300ppm
Week 6: Increase by 100ppm each day until you reach ~600ppm.

Week 7: Flowerin' time. Whole different schedule.

Some people like to pump the nutrients faster, but if you look through all of my past grow journals you will see WHY I do it this way.

Now, this is a basic guideline for what I would call "safe growing" and a good start for a first timer. This is a minimal feeding schedule and will should give you healthy plants, but not all strains are created equal. And that's where things get interesting.

Using this basic guideline I can work on determining my plants needs without risking burning them and slowing my progress. 

I am looking for these indicators in veg:

1) PPM is rising as the water level drops - Too strong. Need to add water and lower the PPM. The plants are taking up more water than nutrients.

2) PPM is falling as the water level drops - Too Weak. Plants are taking up more nutrients than water. Need to add more nutrients to keep the plants happy.

3) PPM stays steady as the water level drops - We are in the right zone.

That again is another basic guideline, I then have to look at the plants....

1) Lower leaves are starting to yellow and overall the plant looks a bit "pale"
-Pleant is underfed and she would really like some more nutrients. Don't need to be drastic, she's just a hungrier breed.

2) Plant is REALLY dark green and starting to get "The Claw". The leaf tips are beginning to curl under. - She's overfed and has too much Nitrogen. Back off the nutes for a little bit. Overfed plants aren't happy.

You'll get the hang of it over time, but it's best to start out with less. 


Recap: Change your water every 7-14 days (depending on the size of your reservior). Small reserviors need to be changed more often. Get a TDS tester. This measures the ppm (parts per million) in your recipe. Watch the levels and adjust according to your needs.


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## laserbrn (Nov 4, 2009)

Despised Icon said:


> Hey what up everyone, i've been wondering about this question is i change my res every other weak; i always add water to the res every day when i see the water level has fallen, is this a terrible mistake on my part? Am i diluting the nut solution? Should i not worry about it and just change res every other weak like i have been just don't add water during the weak. Any help would be appreciated


 
I would add that to answer your question you should add water as often as you reasonably can. I wouldn't top up with water every day, but not for any reason other than that's really annoying. Get a larger reservoir!

Okay, there is ONE reason, I want to see how much my PH changes over the course of say 3 days as well as PPM. So I don't make daily adjustments or top up the reservoir daily. About every 3 - 5 days is a good start. If you can get a nice big reservoir you can keep it really stable and get away with more than a week. I don't really have a definitive answer to this question, but topping up daily and then figuring out how to measure the nutes seems like it would be a bitch.

Example:

Day 1: PPM is @ 1300 - Just topped up and added the nutrients to get it to his level.
Day 2: PPM is @ 1330 
Day 3: PPM is @ 1360
-My PPM is rising gradually. -- To strong
Day 4: PPM is @ 1200 - Just added water again and didn't add nutrients. 
Day 5: PPM is @ 1200
Day 6: PPM is @ 1200
Day 7: PPM is @ 1200
My PPM is now staying stable. -- In the zone
Day 8: PPM is @ 1200 - Add water and nutrients to maintain 1200ppm
Day 9: PPM is @ 1180
Day 10: PPM is @ 1140
Day 11: PPM is @ 1090
My PPM is falling. The plants are developing and getting larger and hungrier. Time to make the move up to 1300 that I tried to make 10 days ago but it was clearly too early.
Day 12: PPM is @ 1190 - Add water and nutrients to get PPM back up to 1200. I never raise more than 100ppm/day though.
Day 13: PPM is @ 1300 - Add water and nutrients again to get PPM up to 1300. Plants were looking for more than 1200ppm.

It's this kind of game that I play and I would think that adding water and nutes daily would make it to hard to see what changes were occuring in the reservoir. And I use Sensi Bloom, Big Bud, Hygrozyme, and Carbo Load. I don't want to measure all that shit out every day.


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## smokingrubber (Nov 4, 2009)

These make it very easy to monitor your reservior.
http://www.horticulturesource.com/ph-ec-tds-meters-test-kits-for-water-soil-timers-instruments-calibration-solutions-c35/control-wizard-cw-24-7-nutrient-monitor-ppm-ph-temperature-p1897/?osCsid=d550a627026fa864c5ecf0904839f229

The handheld testers are not much less if you have to buy both ph & tds.


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## sherriberry (Nov 5, 2009)

hey guys, check out my new idea for a NFT system, and give me any tips you can think of before i start construction. 

It takes up a 4ft x 8ft space, and can grow upwards of 150 plants

https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/266935-new-nft-nutrient-film-technique.html


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## HomeGrownHairy (Nov 6, 2009)

sherriberry said:


> hey guys, check out my new idea for a NFT system, and give me any tips you can think of before i start construction.
> 
> It takes up a 4ft x 8ft space, and can grow upwards of 150 plants
> 
> https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/266935-new-nft-nutrient-film-technique.html


Man, thats really something! How big are you going to let those 150 plants grow in your 4x8 space!


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## colonel cronic (Nov 7, 2009)

so flush every week to 2 weeks and change the res every 2 weeks?.... even for an aero setup


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## sherriberry (Nov 7, 2009)

HomeGrownHairy said:


> Man, thats really something! How big are you going to let those 150 plants grow in your 4x8 space!


 
obviously i cant let them get too big, unless i lollipop them... but basically, i plan on building a second and possibly a third for the bloom phase.

I decided to go smaller on my first one, it is 5x4 instead of 8x4.

I also figured out to use "lattice" as the top plane, and the basket pots fit perfectly in the latice holes.

I will cover the lattice with collars around the plants, and then panda wrap, white side up.

Im actually trying to get away from the basket pots COMPLETELY.

Im toying with the idea of just using a collar around the plant, like a clone in a ez cloner...

and then having like a 1/8 thick metal wire (like the size used to make your grill that you lay steaks on)

and having 2 of those metal wires cross at each hole, and cup down, an inch or so below the lattice and the collar... 

Im wondering if the plants roots stradle 2 wires, and it has a collar, if it would be enough to support itself? Advice please!

This would allow for NO wasted materials... just grow the plant, and when i feel like transfering it, pull out the 2 wires that its sitting on (they will be in kind of a cup shape) and put it over to the bloom station(s) where the plants will have more adequate room, and put it back into an identical sized hole over there, just with less plants around.


Im really looking for someone to tell me yay or nay on the wire idea to replace the full pot.

Im afraid that the pot will limit root groth because the holes in the basket pots ive found are pretty small, as well as block out nutrients frrom sprayers.

- i guess ill mention that im planning on adding a sprayer system to the BOX eventually, and the sprayers will be on a timer probably.

So it will be both an NFT and a sprayer setup in one box! I cant think of how one can give plants anymore nutes or oxygen?!

im just trying to figure out the simplest and cheapest construction, so that i can mass produce these with ease, and show others how im doing it.

Construction has already started on the 4x5. Ill keep you posted, keep an eye on my build thread.

also i should add, the lattice im using, has 233 total holes in it if its 4ft x 8ft.

Will a person use all those holes? Probably not, but there wont be a shortage

Cheers!


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## BlessedBud (Nov 8, 2009)

hey everybody, Im wondering how often to feed im in the last week of veg and have a mixed batch. Right now im at 5 times a day (at even intervals when lights are on) Running about 950ppm (just veg nutrient and carbo load). I have heard anything from 2x daily all the way up to every 2 hours. Things seem to be going alright but growth has definitely slowed. Wondering if my schedule should be adjusted?


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## RollinGreene (Nov 15, 2009)

Can i take clones from a hydroponic plant 

If so what is the best way


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## Max9844 (Nov 17, 2009)

What is the best nutrient i could buy online for a "Stealth Hydro" hydroponic kit.


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## smokingrubber (Nov 17, 2009)

Max9844 said:


> What is the best nutrient i could buy online for a "Stealth Hydro" hydroponic kit.


"Stealth Hydro" is a company that sells a lot of different systems. Ebb & Flow . . . bubleponics . . . airoponics . . . and DWC
http://www.stealthhydroponics.com/index.php?a=SHH9&gclid=CK-mqeOOk54CFQgtawodBiBjtQ

They also sell nutrients.


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## RollinGreene (Nov 17, 2009)

check out [FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]http://futuregarden.com/nutrition/[/FONT][/FONT] 
it's cheap an works every well
check out the additives to way cheaper and just as good as A N


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## Buick455gs (Nov 20, 2009)

Ok so I'm planing on starting a sog setup after the holidays 3 trays, 96 plants, 32 plants harvested every 3 weeks. My only question is what the hell to do with all the used rockwool? Don't really want to be throwing that shit in the trash.


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## smokingrubber (Nov 21, 2009)

Buick455gs said:


> Ok so I'm planing on starting a sog setup after the holidays 3 trays, 96 plants, 32 plants harvested every 3 weeks. My only question is what the hell to do with all the used rockwool? Don't really want to be throwing that shit in the trash.


 
32 plants every 3 weeks? You'll have a lot more to worry about than rockwool. Are you using hydroton? Cleaning it or buying new bags every time? That will be several LARGE bags of rocks you'll have to deal with.

The rockwool is biodegradable. Simply bag it up and take it out to the woods. Break it all up and spread it around. Don't leave the garbage bag, take it with you.


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## Buick455gs (Nov 21, 2009)

smokingrubber said:


> The rockwool is biodegradable. Simply bag it up and take it out to the woods. Break it all up and spread it around. Don't leave the garbage bag, take it with you.


Rockwool is not biodegradable. Any rockwool that you dispose of will sit in a landfill indefinitely. I don't really want that shit piling up in the woods by my house either.

Not sure if I'm gonna use 2" rockwool for clones into 6" square pots with hydrotron or 2" rockwool for clones into 6" rockwool or bubble cloner (bare roots) into 6" pots with hydrotron. I get 100% rooted using the bubble cloner and about 85% rooted using peat pellets. Never used rockwool befor.


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## ShoAL paTroL (Nov 22, 2009)

smokingrubber said:


> The rockwool is biodegradable. Simply bag it up and take it out to the woods. Break it all up and spread it around. Don't leave the garbage bag, take it with you.


please dont dump ur trash in the forest


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## ironlungs88 (Nov 22, 2009)

My fellow good weed smokers,

I have a problem and I know you guys can help. I love the chronic of all chronic, the best of the best as do most of you. But where I live its really hot in the streets and the prices are out the ass for it. I've always had an affinity to grow medical grade love and I want to learn from you guys what it will take to accomplish this. Could someone compile the "recipe" and directions kinda like a step by step bc i dont wanna fuck it up. I'm a perfectionist so I'm relying on your experience. I dont like doin shit the cheap way either...i wanna do it once and do it right...but at minimal costs. Thanks


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## ironlungs88 (Nov 22, 2009)

HardTimez said:


> I dont think anybody should BUY a hydroponics system, there is one big thing about growing is to keep it one the LOW  now why would you go an buy a system, maybe the cops keep an eye on that place...or maybe he keeps a list ? even if you pay with cash...do you think he has a pen handy to write down your plate number? hmm i love the hardware store, plus you look prof. buying there too  the ladies like a man who is a proffesional  just build your own stuff if u smoke weed you have an imagination



Amen you speak the truth lol


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## smokingrubber (Nov 22, 2009)

ShoAL paTroL said:


> please dont dump ur trash in the forest


Used rockwool isn't really trash imo. It will be assimilated into the collective forest medium quite rapidly. But I wouldn't advocate dumping "trash" anywhere. I'm sure you can find a dumpster somewhere for that.

And dude looking for advise . . . look for a video series called "I grow Chronic" by Mr Green. It's a 9 part video available on youtube. That's a good place to start. After that, read journals and ask questions. There are a hundred ways to grow good bud. Get a medical prescription and don't worry about getting traced.


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## johnblaze1 (Nov 22, 2009)

I need some help with my water.....I was such a newbie that I used water from my water softener to fill my reservoirs, lesson learned. I a have a bypass and can use hard water but don't know nutrients are best or if hard water is even ok. I hae heard of using an RO system or a Tall Boy, do you have any suggestions?


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## smokingrubber (Nov 22, 2009)

johnblaze1 said:


> I need some help with my water.....I was such a newbie that I used water from my water softener to fill my reservoirs, lesson learned. I a have a bypass and can use hard water but don't know nutrients are best or if hard water is even ok. I hae heard of using an RO system or a Tall Boy, do you have any suggestions?


 
This is a very good RO system for plants
http://www.horticulturesource.com/product_info.php?products_id=5733

And that's a good price too. You could also use the RO100. It's got less output but cheaper to replace the membranes and just cheaper with the same quality. Depends on your use level.

RO100 = 5 gal per hr
RO200 = 10 gal per hr

How long can you wait for the res to fill?


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## samstevens1 (Nov 23, 2009)

Hello new to this part of RIU(HYDROPONICS) just picked up a copy of High Times(GrowGuide) and it has a setup for harvesting a pound every 3 weeks the setup of the veg unit and flowering unit aren't well described if anyone has knowledge of how to build the veg and/flowering units I'd appreciate it


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## johnblaze1 (Nov 23, 2009)

samstevens1 said:


> Hello new to this part of RIU(HYDROPONICS) just picked up a copy of High Times(GrowGuide) and it has a setup for harvesting a pound every 3 weeks the setup of the veg unit and flowering unit aren't well described if anyone has knowledge of how to build the veg and/flowering units I'd appreciate it


Smokingrubber - 

I have 2-100 gal res. I could stagger the change out of the water of them so the RO 100 would work. 

Do you use the RO system? Any tips you could pass on or things to pay attention to?

I appreciate your help


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## smokingrubber (Nov 23, 2009)

johnblaze1 said:


> Smokingrubber -
> 
> I have 2-100 gal res. I could stagger the change out of the water of them so the RO 100 would work.
> 
> ...


Yes, I have the RO200. I installed it last week and filled my tub for the first time last night. It took me 5 hours to fill 40 gallons.

Tip: get a float valve so you won't have to worry about floods. Install the unit near your water & drain source. The outlet line is small and cheap so running it 25-50 ft is no problem.

Keep in mind that the longer it takes to fill the tub - the longer your babies will be without water. If your tubs are on wheels, you could buy a third tub and fill it the day before. Then you could roll out the old tub and roll in the new one without missing a beat.


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## ShoAL paTroL (Nov 25, 2009)

smokingrubber said:


> Used rockwool isn't really trash imo. It will be assimilated into the collective forest medium quite rapidly. But I wouldn't advocate dumping "trash" anywhere. I'm sure you can find a dumpster somewhere for that.


rockwool is "trash" it will NOT break down.we have piles that have sat in our compost and if u dig in the compost the cubes at the bottom havent even started to breakdown.some are 5-6 years old.even if u crush it up it doesnt seam to help.its been a problem for us for awhile,"what to do with it"theres plenty of forest where we live and the prop. has had a number of old grow spots from past owners.we have had to spend days cleaning up piles of rockwool,nute bottles,plastic piping,and wire.the rockwool from these old grows are still useable if u had nothing else.


dont mean to give u a hard time about it but our collective has spent countless days cleaning up old grows in norcal and we are hoping that u will go back and clean up the trash u have dumped.


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## samstevens1 (Nov 25, 2009)

Hey still alive out there? lol listen any of RIU Hydro growers have a copy of the new HT grow guide it has an article about harvesting a pound every 3 weeks but the plans for the veg/ flowering units are confusing if anyone has built this or something similar please respond. I'm a organic soil grower but hydro yields blow soil away according to some circles and experimenting with it is something that intrigues me. Any help would be appreciated


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## smokingrubber (Nov 25, 2009)

ShoAL paTroL said:


> rockwool is "trash" it will NOT break down.we have piles that have sat in our compost and if u dig in the compost the cubes at the bottom havent even started to breakdown.some are 5-6 years old.even if u crush it up it doesnt seam to help.its been a problem for us for awhile,"what to do with it"theres plenty of forest where we live and the prop. has had a number of old grow spots from past owners.we have had to spend days cleaning up piles of rockwool,nute bottles,plastic piping,and wire.the rockwool from these old grows are still useable if u had nothing else.
> 
> 
> dont mean to give u a hard time about it but our collective has spent countless days cleaning up old grows in norcal and we are hoping that u will go back and clean up the trash u have dumped.


 
I appreciate the knowledge. I don't and won't dump trash. I have a very convenient dumpster at work for that  I didn't know they wouldn't break down. Thank you for the info. +rep


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## samstevens1 (Nov 30, 2009)

No one reads High Times huh, first time I wander into the hydro area of RIU and no help. This is a community lets step our helpfull hand game up growers.


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## GypsyBush (Nov 30, 2009)

samstevens1 said:


> No one reads High Times huh, first time I wander into the hydro area of RIU and no help. This is a community lets step our helpfull hand game up growers.



Here's a bone...

https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/116859-harvest-pound-every-three-weeks.html


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## happyj (Dec 3, 2009)

_this is my first grow and im using aeroponics. I would like to harvest from the top branches and then let the lower branches continue to mature. I was wondering what your suggestion would be for the best time to flush the nutes? Wouldnt the lower branches still need the nutes?_


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## msingh (Dec 7, 2009)

so i was wondering if it is better to go with a ebb and flow system or a bucket drip system. the bucket drip system has a 8 gallon res and 13 gallon controller and the buckets are all 5 gallons. i could make any size ebb and flow system so i guess my question is which one should i use in a 6 by 6 grow room?


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## smokingrubber (Dec 7, 2009)

msingh said:


> so i was wondering if it is better to go with a ebb and flow system or a bucket drip system. the bucket drip system has a 8 gallon res and 13 gallon controller and the buckets are all 5 gallons. i could make any size ebb and flow system so i guess my question is which one should i use in a 6 by 6 grow room?


Drip system fine for vegging . . . but serious budding would demand ebb and flow


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## Friendly (Dec 26, 2009)

My first setup is Aeroponics~


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## MoN3yb4Gs (Dec 29, 2009)

I'm in with....
"Gutter Symphony"
A custom DIY Aero setup I'll be unavailing later this week.


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## CROPALOTAPOT (Dec 29, 2009)

Hello ladies n gents, Here is my current grow.

https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/275991-3600-watt-dutch-tables-jamaican.html

I have been growing hydroponically for just over 8 years and absolutely love it!


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## hubebaba (Dec 29, 2009)

CROPALOTAPOT said:


> Hello ladies n gents, Here is my current grow.
> 
> https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/275991-3600-watt-dutch-tables-jamaican.html
> 
> I have been growing hydroponically for just over 8 years and absolutely love it!


WOW! Gonna be quite a harvest!


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## CROPALOTAPOT (Dec 29, 2009)

Thanks Hubebaba! I like your DWC grow too...


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## Joker209 (Dec 31, 2009)

First and foremost, my utmost apologies for not reading all of this thread, but I do plan on reading it all to get a better insight on everything and brush up on the things I've already done and used before a long time ago. ANYWAY... I am wanting to build a clone & flower hydroponic set up with the stuff I have here. I just need to buy the pots and the mister tips and I have everything else from around my house. I have totes, air pumps, plenty of pvc of all sizes and fittings, water valves, water pumps, air tubes, PERFECT tap water, PH tester, nutes (5 years old. does it matter?), and a watering can. I plan on making my own air stone (so to say) out of an air tube with a ton of holes in it. I need the set up to hold 50+ clones for a SOG setup. I am a bit rusty on my hydro knowledge as it has been about 3 years since I did hydroponics. I have been a "dirtbag" and pot type of guy for the rest of my experience. I would like it if someone could possibly throw together a blueprint and possibly some pictures. As I said before I plan on reading all of this but am a bit short on time as I have to run out. Any information and pictures and setup blueprints will be highly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Joker


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## Joker209 (Dec 31, 2009)

I would like to know if *this tote* with a good air flow would work or should I set it up with a aqua pump and misters / sprayers?
If my calculations are right I should be able to fit around 30-50 3" net pots. Is this an accurate calculation?

Or would *this 1* work better?


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## aerogrower123 (Jan 3, 2010)

Hey everyone

I'm just starting out so i ordered the stealth hydro bubbleponics kit. I'm having trouble with the Ph. When i first started i used poland spring- spring water. At first everything was fine, then i went to add back about a gallon of water back to the resevoir and thats when the ph problems started. I would adjust it and it would always go up to about 7.15 a few hours later. so i was adding ph down to try and control it and eventually i ended up with what looked like soap on the top of the water...and everything was slimy (not algae). So i called their support line and they said they recommended distilled water. so i switched my water.... cleaned everything and now my ph is going back to around 7.15 .... I'm not sure what to do to keep it consistant. PLEASE HELP


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## WORMVILLE (Jan 4, 2010)

Hey wats sup man im deff a noob at this lol but a very fast learner i jus basic steps on how to get my hydro plants growing.

I jus did the paper towel method so i got to wait about 2 days and then i have the rapid rooters to put them in. I have the nutirents and distilled water for my 6 plant hydroponic system and 150 hps light. 

Im looking to grow wat ever i can with my 150 hps only for me to smoke so i want to make this some real decent hydro bud.  hopefully u can guide me thru and i can deff post pictures on how it goes for you also. Thanks buddy


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## ImTheFireMan (Jan 9, 2010)

how many drippers do you guys use per plant? i stack a 4 inch rockwool on top of a 6 inch cube, i only have one dripper per plant right now, but i was thinkin about doing 2 per. what do you guys think?


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## Bonestoned (Jan 18, 2010)

Hey Potroast, have grown with ebb and flow before. veg for 2 mo and flower for 2 mo. now have super closet system and need educated on quick turn ( sog ) and proper nutrient selection for veg and flower periods. would prefer organic. alllll help would be grately appreciated


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## Joker209 (Jan 20, 2010)

ImTheFireMan said:


> how many drippers do you guys use per plant? i stack a 4 inch rockwool on top of a 6 inch cube, i only have one dripper per plant right now, but i was thinkin about doing 2 per. what do you guys think?


1 Dripper per plant works fine. How many times a day and for how long do you water? If 3 or more times per day and more than 10 minutes each water you should be alright with just 1 per.


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## kenshnx20 (Jan 20, 2010)

can anyone recommend a good type of nutrients. I've been using BC products and they are working very well.


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## Joker209 (Jan 20, 2010)

kenshnx20 said:


> can anyone recommend a good type of nutrients. I've been using BC products and they are working very well.


If it's working why change it? I would say a good nutrient setup is b'cuzz, but they're a little expensive. I use the cheap shit right now and it sucks... Wont name drop lol


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## rascal (Jan 21, 2010)

aerogrower123 said:


> Hey everyone
> 
> I'm just starting out so i ordered the stealth hydro bubbleponics kit. I'm having trouble with the Ph. When i first started i used poland spring- spring water. At first everything was fine, then i went to add back about a gallon of water back to the resevoir and thats when the ph problems started. I would adjust it and it would always go up to about 7.15 a few hours later. so i was adding ph down to try and control it and eventually i ended up with what looked like soap on the top of the water...and everything was slimy (not algae). So i called their support line and they said they recommended distilled water. so i switched my water.... cleaned everything and now my ph is going back to around 7.15 .... I'm not sure what to do to keep it consistant. PLEASE HELP


what nuts u using what r ur temps whats ur ppms what phase r u in how much h20 how many plants?


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## hitman40 (Jan 22, 2010)

I made 2 2X3 ebb and flow tables from plastic cement mixing tubs from home depot. I am using hydrotron in 5" net pots. what is the best way to put them into the ebb tray so I don't get alge? Do i put down a layer of hydrotron in the tray first then sit the net pots on that and only flood up to 1/2" from the surface of the hydrotron in the tray or do I set the pots right down in the trayand put hydrotron around the pots?Thanks and keep up the good work.Hitman40


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## Joker209 (Jan 22, 2010)

Here is a good link for beginners that I found pretty interesting. I don't agree with a few of his methods but the setting up part was kinda cool. Check out the video for some helpful hints for setting up basic hydro tables. This video is called Mr Green's I Grow Chronic. I found this video while browsing the forums. Might help some of you out.

http://isohunt.com/download/114643841/Mr.+Green:+I+Grow+Chronic.torrent


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## cannibus corps (Jan 24, 2010)

I just changed from soil to Hydro. My last soil grow I grew 24 plants which produced 3lbs, but it too 4 months for that grow and I had a lot of issues once my plants out grew the room I Vegged too long". So my local hydro shop talked me into growing in 2 4x4 flood and drain tables with 2 40 gal res, using root riot clones to Rockwool. I had 40 clones from my last grow White Widow, Master Kush, Bubblicious and Northern Lights. So out of the 40 clones I have killed all but 5!!!!!! I made every mistake that could be made. Learn from my mistakes!!! 1st I never PH balanced the Rockwool! Must have missed that info, also my hydro people could have informed me of that vital step! The clones were growing under 24/7 light for 2 months, so I only vegged them for 1 week then flowered thinking they would be good and also by recommendation from my local grow shop. I am using all Advanced nutrients including the new Bud Factor X. I have all atmospherics covered and perfectly balanced. Now the 5 plants that survived have the most rigorous growth that I have ever seen. But I am scared of hydro now. I just lost like $15k! So my assumption of what went wrong is as follows. 1. Did not ph balance the Rockwool? 2. nute burn in week 3 by following AN's nute chart., 3. My lights didnt turn on due to a faulty timer.
Now my questions to the experts are this.
I am flooding my tables once every 3 hours for 15min, none at night. Obviously 12/12 flower cycle. Im seeing mixed results, ive been playing with the times.


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## CLOSETGROWTH (Jan 24, 2010)

billybob88 said:


> i love how people get on here and are like "can you tell me how to setup up a complete hydroponics system, im completely new and have no idea where to start." It makes me chuckle.


Its not a method.. Its an ART


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## RMM (Jan 25, 2010)

Hi, I have simply question I cant seem to wrap my fragile little brain around.

But back ground info first. Im am new to hydro and have done a lot of reading and want to try ebb and flow. Im building my own cause well I dont want to buy one. Its going to be shallow system with 5-6 different plants (not MJ cause I dont want to invest in good seeds when I dont know what Im doing).

Most/all systems I see the in/out tube is the same whole. Now they say that gravity will pull the water back through the water pump.... But will it? wont the pump keep the pressure in the line? or is it cause its a small pump when the power is turned off it release pressure in the pump it self? 

sorry if my questions dont make any sense. But thats about all Im having problems with.


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## tswood7777 (Jan 25, 2010)

I have small system 6 pot v drip. Im looking for some ph info what to keep the ph at? how often do u change the water? and how often do I run the pump. System only ciculates 4 gallon. i have grown in soil until now.


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## RMM (Jan 25, 2010)

tswood7777 said:


> I have small system 6 pot v drip. Im looking for some ph info what to keep the ph at? how often do u change the water? and how often do I run the pump. System only ciculates 4 gallon. i have grown in soil until now.


Shouldnt the pH be the same for soil and soilless? and if its a drip shouldnt it run constant, cause its only dripping..


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## Joker209 (Jan 26, 2010)

tswood7777 said:


> I have small system 6 pot v drip. Im looking for some ph info what to keep the ph at? how often do u change the water? and how often do I run the pump. System only ciculates 4 gallon. i have grown in soil until now.


To help just a little here from past experience. 3 times a day or even 4 if in shorter drop intervals. If doing drips 3 times a day do it for about 15-20 minutes each interval. If more than that shorten the times down. Try not to have a constant drip on em because it will lead to more problems than its worth and there's nothing worse than checking on dead plants because they toppled over due to root rot or something. PH should stay between 5.5 and 6.5. Some people like to go above it but I have found that these are good numbers for me. As far as changing the res. You should only add to it every few days and clean it out every 2 weeks or so. Day 12 is a good day to redo res. Keeps a good balance of PH and nutes in the water and also makes for less waste. Hope this helps.
Welcome to hydroponics.


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## Bublonichronic (Jan 26, 2010)

hey all, looking for some help and i figured this was the thread, i just built a ebb n flo system and am having poor results...i started phn the water down to 6 a couple days ago and the burn seemd to have stopd, but growth is just not what i think it should be for a hydro system, im using a "drip PH tester"so ph is just in the general area of 6, i think..wondering is a digital ph is nessicary...also i change my res every week, and i like to run the cleanwater for a minute or two before adding nutes to the new water in the res...this a good idea?....also have a drip for vegg. you guys say it shouldnt be a stream of water? like literally a drip?,lol all help apreciated


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## Joker209 (Jan 26, 2010)

Bublonichronic said:


> hey all, looking for some help and i figured this was the thread, i just built a ebb n flo system and am having poor results...i started phn the water down to 6 a couple days ago and the burn seemd to have stopd, but growth is just not what i think it should be for a hydro system, im using a "drip PH tester"so ph is just in the general area of 6, i think..wondering is a digital ph is nessicary...also i change my res every week, and i like to run the cleanwater for a minute or two before adding nutes to the new water in the res...this a good idea?....also have a drip for vegg. you guys say it shouldnt be a stream of water? like literally a drip?,lol all help apreciated


Read the immediately previous post. I just answered this question. Good luck and I hope my advice helps.


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## keeger123 (Jan 27, 2010)

1st hydro grow!!! 3.4k HPS, flood&drain bucket/timer system, hydroton, advanced and power to grow nuits, ph to 5.9, TDS under 1600ppm. now flushing. no co2 joe, some day.... 
16 rom x ssh, 6 weeks into budding,


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## hubebaba (Jan 27, 2010)

keeger123 said:


> 1st hydro grow!!! 3.4k HPS, flood&drain bucket/timer system, hydroton, advanced and power to grow nuits, ph to 5.9, TDS under 1600ppm. now flushing. no co2 joe, some day....
> 16 rom x ssh, 6 weeks into budding,


WOW! Very nice. Pardon the druel please.


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## Bublonichronic (Jan 28, 2010)

How often should I fix ph? Just bought a ph meter and I'm noticing that the ph will rise from 5.2 back to like 6 within hours... Should I be ph between floods to make sure it's at a constant ph level?? Seem like it would be a lot if work...


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## kenshnx20 (Jan 31, 2010)

tell me what you think my hydro bothers.


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## GypsyBush (Jan 31, 2010)

Looks VERY HEALTHY!!!


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## ThinkingGreen (Feb 2, 2010)

I have a question. I've been looking around, reading post, and threads and still no luck. I have a growing bible.. It doesn't specify.. I almost feel like a noob for asking.. Hell, I wasn't about to post a thread with this question.. But.. Can you use the same nutrients for hydroponics that you can with growing with dirt? Or would I have to go and get some different nutes? I wasn't quite sure on this.. so if anyone could help me with this that would be awesome! Thanks!


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## 420hydro (Feb 2, 2010)

ThinkingGreen said:


> I have a question. I've been looking around, reading post, and threads and still no luck. I have a growing bible.. It doesn't specify.. I almost feel like a noob for asking.. Hell, I wasn't about to post a thread with this question.. But.. Can you use the same nutrients for hydroponics that you can with growing with dirt? Or would I have to go and get some different nutes? I wasn't quite sure on this.. so if anyone could help me with this that would be awesome! Thanks!


Fertilizer manufacturers assume that the plants are getting trace minerals / elements from the soil.

Nutrients have the big 3, N P K, but also have the trace minerals that the plant needs for healthy growth.

You can use a fertilizer with lots of supplements and guess work, or use a complete nutrient and save yourself time and heartache.

OverGrow


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## ThinkingGreen (Feb 2, 2010)

420hydro said:


> Fertilizer manufacturers assume that the plants are getting trace minerals / elements from the soil.
> 
> Nutrients have the big 3, N P K, but also have the trace minerals that the plant needs for healthy growth.
> 
> ...


Okay I see what you're saying. So If I go to home depot, could I find what I'm looking for?


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## seanboyxx (Feb 4, 2010)

Hey guys, I have my sprouted seeds growing in rockwool. My hydro setups are general hydroponics waterfarms filled with hydroton (top feed system)

my question is, how often should I water the system, will the 1.5" rockwool cubes soak up to much water?

Thanks a bunch


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## 420hydro (Feb 5, 2010)

ThinkingGreen said:


> Okay I see what you're saying. So If I go to home depot, could I find what I'm looking for?


I have Miracle-Gro Tomato Plant food for my house plants (some hydroponic).

It is NPK 18-18-21. It is designed for soil.

But reading the Guaranteed Analysis, it also has Magnesium, Copper, Iron, Manganese, and Zinc. These are very important trace minerals. So it's good.

But Cannabis seems to need these traces and more and in certain strengths. You can get by with something from HD, but it won't be your best grow.

I am going to investigate Jack's Classic Plant Food by J.R. Peters. I've heard some good things about it. And HD doesn't carry it...

OverGrow


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## ThinkingGreen (Feb 6, 2010)

420hydro said:


> I have Miracle-Gro Tomato Plant food for my house plants (some hydroponic).
> 
> It is NPK 18-18-21. It is designed for soil.
> 
> ...


Well my question was.. can I use it hydroponically? I know it's designed for soil.. but I need some nutes for my hydro set up.


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## carpin (Feb 7, 2010)

hi all looking for some good tips on using nft systems, 1st is an nft system a flood and drain system ? also my plants are getting ferly big and crowded bwt 6 weeks of veg 2 weeks of veg in nft how long till i can flower i am waiting for a good root mass?


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## Bublonichronic (Feb 7, 2010)

ThinkingGreen said:


> Well my question was.. can I use it hydroponically? I know it's designed for soil.. but I need some nutes for my hydro set up.


 is there chunks of fert. left not dissolved in the water? if your water pump can take it, its all good im prety sure...i use FF Grow Big formulated for soil, hydroponically, and it seems to work fine..

on a side note, iv noticed that my PH is ALWAYS at 6.0, nomatter how low i take it, it will end up at 6...does anyone know if FoxFarm has a PH stabalizer in the Nutes?? either way iv just stopd fuckin with the PH and things seem to be fine...kind of weird tho


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## gnajalizard (Feb 12, 2010)

hello I need a question answered before I attempt the operation I am going to preform. First all I have different strains growing in a 24/7 drip table but the roots need more space and more of a downward angle some of them are drying up because they cant get enough water. This has put an over all stunt on all the growth, the plants are in the first week of flowering and I am wondering if I can transfer them into a dwc system to improve yeild? will this hurt the plant transplanting it into a different environment? I am just going to wait a few more days untill I can see the females and males then I will put the fems into a dwc ? any one think this is bad or good? right now my plants are a foot tall but they should be way bigger after two months of veg and the root systems are petit. thanks


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## SmokeDr420 (Feb 13, 2010)

i have a 5 gallon bucket cut in half....with 3 plants about two months old...proper exhaust and oxygen along with a 30 gallon water pump and a 4 inch airstone but you guys say change the water every one to two weeks right??? every time i mix my nutes and ph down to get my 5.7ph and in an hour after i change it the ph jumps up to 7 like it used all the nutes???? i've been using 5 drops of ph down and about two teaspoons of fox farm grow big hydroponics... y is this happening??? heres some pics but help would be appreciated...thank you

https://www.rollitup.org/members/smokedr420-albums-aerogarden-picture108574-photo0503.jpg
https://www.rollitup.org/members/smokedr420-albums-aerogarden-picture108569-photo0500.jpg
https://www.rollitup.org/members/smokedr420-albums-aerogarden-picture108575-photo0504.jpg
https://www.rollitup.org/members/smokedr420-albums-aerogarden-picture108568-photo0501.jpg


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## GwoppMoney (Feb 14, 2010)

Hey everyone,

Im new to growing and have a couple of questions..

Im looking to grow around 3-6 plants with an Hydroponic system..

What kind of lighting shall i use? do you guys recommend MH or HPS and what watts shall i use?

Also any other recommendations are welcome.

Thanks.


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## SmokeDr420 (Feb 15, 2010)

depends how much space you have and what you are growing in but you probably need a 400 watt hps light for 6 of them


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## asher187 (Feb 20, 2010)

What do you guys think about drip systems in general? I've done small DWC and also Ebb and Flows. I am considering 4 of this product http://shop.v-drip.com/cgi/display.cgi?item_num=V24 I have done really small 12 plant runs and I really want to run 4 of these under 2000 watts 2X 1000HPS) I'm a little apprehensive because I haven't done drip yet. I want to try it because I am wanting to go CoCo and also the systems are cheap and I don't have to go out and spend a shit ton to build up a new Ebb system. 4 3X3 ebbs would cost me $300 each these are $159 each so long story short is drip and CoCo a reliable way to go?
What I plan to grow is in my sig


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## GypsyBush (Feb 20, 2010)

asher187 said:


> 3X3 ebbs would cost me $300 each


Wow... I paid 80 bucks for mine.. all the way in Alaska...

I would look into maybe making your own trays of cash is really short... but I would deff. stick to ebb / flow...

I use 4 3x3 trays and LOVE it!!!! each gets a 600...

Just saying.. nothing wrong with coco or drip...

But MY personal choice would be to mimic Al B. Fuct's op with 2k watts...

https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/6592-get-harvest-every-2-weeks.html


Best of Luck...


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## asher187 (Feb 20, 2010)

Yeah that is exactly it I want to do an AL B grow. Everywhere I look 3X3s are over $300 per system plus a shit load of shipping. although after pricing it separately I get it down to (about) $155ea and I have to build tables, another $20 in build materials (I'm not good at building stuff but I think I can make tables LOL) and use Rubbermaids for Res.

Anyone else? please? lol I am anxious to sprout these seeds but I am waiting until I pull the trigger and order my parts. I got $2K burning a hole in my pocket but I have learned to ask first!!!


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## GypsyBush (Feb 20, 2010)

Well...

Here is what I got going right now... I've been "on a break"...lol.....







I made a square wodden "table" to support 4 3x3 trays... making SURE to support the trays from underneath... not just hanging from the lip... in time the flex will turn into a crack...

I'll take a picture of it when lights come on...

I use Rubbermaid Stock tanks... pais $100 for my 100 gal res in ALASKA.. where everything is way more expensive...









I like the white BOTANICARE trays.. buy them locally.. shipping them is a bitch, chances are they will crack... I pay $80 for the trays and another $17 for the fittings...

Here is one on the net for $85... but like I said.. buy it locally and save on shipping and hassle...

http://www.horticulturesource.com/product_info.php?products_id=1826







None of it is CHEAP... but you will get your money's worth for sure... I know I did...

Here's some older pics... Fuct style perpetual...


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## GypsyBush (Feb 20, 2010)

asher187 said:


> Anyone else? please? lol I am anxious to sprout these seeds but I am waiting until I pull the trigger and order my parts. I got $2K burning a hole in my pocket but I have learned to ask first!!!


Have you read Al B. Fuct's https://www.rollitup.org/newbie-central/12071-noobs-if-you-fail-plan.html

It is an AWESOME post...


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## asher187 (Feb 20, 2010)

First off: Nice Bud Pron.
Second: haven't read taht link working on that now.
lastly I was stationed at Elmendorf in alaska  it rules all.
Thanks for the information. I have a few Ebb and flow grows under my belt so I'll be fine doing Ebb and Flow.
I just wanted to get the most for the least invested but it might be best to spend on what I know and save the experiments for someone else since this isn't just about for "FUN" although it is "FUN"


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## rochester88 (Feb 24, 2010)

watsup, been growin in soil, finally movin over to hydro. im settin up a ebb & flow setup, and i got just a 2 ft by 6ft by 8 inch deep plastic flood table. i got a few questions: 

1) i plan to put them in rockwool cubes, starting seeds in 1.5 x 1.5 x 1.5 in cubes, then moving them up to 4 x 4 x 4 in cubes when they are larger. does that sizing seem wise? and more importantly, im kind of wondering does it matter if i put some other medium in my flood table besides rockwool cubes? i know i've seen some people using pebbles filling up the flood table and then rockwool cubes kinda buried in the pebbles, does it matter if i just put cubes right on the table with nothing securing them in place? will they slide around a lot when the table fills up, particularly in the seedling stages when im usng smaller cubes? 

2) As they get larger and the roots begin to come out the bottom of the cube, do i want to raise the cubes up so as to keep the roots off the table, like dangling in the air? i was thinking about running a dowel rod or something through the cubes to raise them up like a half inch above the bottom of the table? wise? necessary? opinion? I don't know that much about what I want to do with the roots in my hydro set up...i just want best advice as far as how to avoid root rot and how to make sure they get maximum o2.

3) how often is good to flood my table? ive read that it doesnt make much of a difference how often there flooded so long as its least 1 time a day for a decent time period, opinions? 

4) How important is it to keep my resevoir covered? and also, how do you best recommend maintaining a constant temperature within my resevoir? does the water need to just stay between 70-80 F?

5) and finally ph! im getting a ph buffered dry nutrient solution, and my plan is to just flush them every 7-10 days and make a new nutrient batch, will that be good enough to avoid any problems with ph? im not trying to buy an expensive ph tester, i was thinking about maybe just some litmus paper just to identify if the ph is the problem and make a new batch if thats the case...opinions? 

thanks for the help and sorry for the long ass post, i am just gettin into hydro so i had a few unknowns...preciate it


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## slowburn55 (Feb 28, 2010)

I have a 10 gal , drip irrigation hydro system, I use R/O water, how often should I change the water? Also, I have 5 plants growing under fan cooled 400W HPS lights, they are all uniform at 16 inches, should I try a trelis net at this point or let them go naturally, I`ve trimmed the under branches and leaves plus I have a fan on the lower plant stems. Everything looks really good and healthy. What should I do?


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## Pounds&Pounds (Mar 6, 2010)

Man how do you do post on here


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## Jtoth3ustin (Mar 6, 2010)

rochester88 said:


> watsup, been growin in soil, finally movin over to hydro. im settin up a ebb & flow setup, and i got just a 2 ft by 6ft by 8 inch deep plastic flood table. i got a few questions:
> 
> 1) i plan to put them in rockwool cubes, starting seeds in 1.5 x 1.5 x 1.5 in cubes, then moving them up to 4 x 4 x 4 in cubes when they are larger. does that sizing seem wise? and more importantly, im kind of wondering does it matter if i put some other medium in my flood table besides rockwool cubes? i know i've seen some people using pebbles filling up the flood table and then rockwool cubes kinda buried in the pebbles, does it matter if i just put cubes right on the table with nothing securing them in place? will they slide around a lot when the table fills up, particularly in the seedling stages when im usng smaller cubes?
> 
> ...


sounds about right. i dont run hydro. but what ik from my buddies. your on track. but for the rockwool.. it never hurts to go bigger. lol [email protected]


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## fresnogrown (Mar 12, 2010)

does drying/curing for hydro buds take longer? With a constant water supply, I would imagine they have a higher water content. But then again, what do I know.


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## mightyboogie (Mar 13, 2010)

hi guys
can anyone help with this one pls
i m using an aeroflo system with RO water and nutrients from GH.(soft water micro).water ec=0.do you think i need a calcium supplement or just the fact that im using soft water micro will do it???
thanks


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## southtxheadtrip (Mar 20, 2010)

i am doing my first grow in a 5gallon bucket, and i want to know about the lighting. from begining to end. what should i start out with and what should i end with? or does it change at all? also if the seed is a medium grow, should i still add the suggested amount or.. dammit i just need help...lol.. any info would be greatful..


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## motoracer110 (Mar 20, 2010)

southtxheadtrip said:


> i am doing my first grow in a 5gallon bucket, and i want to know about the lighting. from begining to end. what should i start out with and what should i end with? or does it change at all? also if the seed is a medium grow, should i still add the suggested amount or.. dammit i just need help...lol.. any info would be greatful..


save up the money and get a Metal halide bulb for veg, and High Pressure Sodium for Flower and you will love it.


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## PetFlora (Mar 20, 2010)

aubud said:


> Hey, im not gonna act like I know everything about this stuff cause its my first grow... but i am fairly certain that if you use the trio from AN (Mico/grow/bloom) you should be fine. The other stuff would be icing on the cake. As for the cloning of clones, theoretically you should be fine since each plant is a genetic fully functioning copy. Just make sure they wont be too small that cutting a clone will over stress them....
> 
> Now onto my original reason for coming to this thread lol...
> What are some good PH buffers? Im using the FoxFarm Nute trio and im experiencing some pretty rapid PH jumps (right now they were at 6.68 when 12 hours ago i just lowered them down to 6.5 from 6.7 last night!! I know the PH is supposed to be ( in a perfect world) around 5.9-5.3 but I am hing an downright impossible time trying to keep it there! What do i do Please help! + rep for help!!!kiss-ass


_You may be onto something. I ran out of Botanicare, so I used FF Grow Big, everything else the same. Set pH at 5.8 yesterday morning. This morning it was 7.4, and I am D2W so it's not from recirculation contamination. That said my btl of Grow Big is a couple years old, and may have turned. _

_Why don't they put use by dates on the labels? _


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## growinthedesert (Mar 24, 2010)

can you go from soil to hydro with a large root system from an indica?


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## GR0W M0DE (Mar 29, 2010)

hey, this is my first post on here and im i first time grower. i was just wondering if i need to use nutrients as soon as i start using my bubbleponics?


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## IamRipped (Apr 4, 2010)

I remember my first venture into hydroponics. Before I had only done some ninja planting at forest reserves around my area. YET once I got into using a water based / soil less system I found it to be rather easy. 

plus dwc systems are probably the easiest to setup to start because you only need really 3 things to start, bucket, air stone and air pump.


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## RiaDia (Apr 9, 2010)

I just started growing my first baby & am thinking about going hydro. Any pro's & cons I ahould consider before hand? I'm new at this! & what do you put around the roots in a hydro set up?


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## Joker209 (Apr 9, 2010)

To grow hydroponically all you need are these few items. I threw together a general idea for you to build on. Do your research everyone because the more you know the more you grow. Here is a list of materials you will need for a very easy very cheap hydroponic system. This particular system is called DWC (Deep Water Culture / Cultivator)

A tote for the res (reservoir) *Anything that holds water and is light tight will work. I have grown in a gallon milk jug *





An air pump





Air stones (not the cheap ass blue Wal-Mart brand ones)
THESE ARE MY FAVORITE BY FAR





Nutrients (you can check out Horticulture source also)
General Hydroponics' Flora Series is one of the most common nutrients.
http://www.generalhydroponics.com/genhydro_US/floraseries.html

Net pots (hard as hell to find outside a hydrostore or online)





If you can't find net pots or can't afford net pots then I would suggest using a soldering iron and put some holes in some plastic dixie cups and use the "holy cup" for your plants and media (soil replacement if any)

Hydroton (grow rocks) FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO DON'T KNOW THIS IS THE REPLACEMENT FOR SOIL IN A HYDRO SYSTEM. THEY HOLD THE PLANT AND IT'S ROOTS IN PLACE DURING GROWTH.
http://www.amazon.com/Hydroton-10-Liter-Bag-2-2/dp/B000FCPDFA

**NOT NEEDED BUT A GREAT TOOL TO HAVE** TDS (Total Dissolved Solubles) Meter to measure your PPM (Parts Per Million)
http://www.amazon.com/Digital-TDS-4-Pocket-Size-Meter/dp/B0027NOWMU

Instead of typing out everything on how to build 1 here is a link to a thread already dedicated to building your very own DWC.
https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/272015-how-build-easy-dwc-reservoir.html
As far as his technique of "perfect nutrients" just follow the directions and remember always start with half strength.

If I left anything out please feel free to write.


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## stescugeorge (Apr 18, 2010)

OK, I know I should have read the whole thread, but 100+ pages, that's a bit much for me. Can anyone tell me if an AeroFlo 20, which of course can house 20 plants, would yield more than 20 plants grown in soil, 11 Liter (2.5 gallons) pots same amount of space, same lighting, same everything. Now, from all that I read, you won't get the same taste and aroma, but I couldn't find anything concrete about the yield. I keep hearing a lot of talk, but no results. Most of the Aeroponic grows I've seen till now look and end up yielding shit. Even one that started of looking pretty nice ended up with a yield of less than half a pound, in a 36 site Aeroflo!! So if anyone can help me with this, I'd be really greatful. I'm not interested in how hard it is, how much more time consuming it is, all that, just the yield, I pretty much read about the rest. Thanks! Peace!


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## thecream0fthecr0p (Apr 18, 2010)

stescugeorge said:


> OK, I know I should have read the whole thread, but 100+ pages, that's a bit much for me. Can anyone tell me if an AeroFlo 20, which of course can house 20 plants, would yield more than 20 plants grown in soil, 11 Liter (2.5 gallons) pots same amount of space, same lighting, same everything. Now, from all that I read, you won't get the same taste and aroma, but I couldn't find anything concrete about the yield. I keep hearing a lot of talk, but no results. Most of the Aeroponic grows I've seen till now look and end up yielding shit. Even one that started of looking pretty nice ended up with a yield of less than half a pound, in a 36 site Aeroflo!! So if anyone can help me with this, I'd be really greatful. I'm not interested in how hard it is, how much more time consuming it is, all that, just the yield, I pretty much read about the rest. Thanks! Peace!



I agree w/ the fact this thread has gotten pretty long and is tedious to go through but it's well worth it I'm sure..I actually find myself going thru a few pages at a time as I go back and fourth through other but much shorter threads that are related to these topics.

Other than that from what I've read and inquired there is much work to be accomplished when it comes to "aeroponic" grows..I know for a fact those over expensive aerogardens aren't good for yielding anything other than about 15 grams and that's if your lucky lol.

If your friend only managed to get half a pound from a 36 site cloner he still should consider himself lucky I've really only heard of people getting 1 0z per plant kind of results in EZ-Cloners which run about the same price as anonymous 36 site cloners.. if you do Aeroponics in a rubbermaid tote or what not the chances of you getting a yield with a 4 or 6 site (however many u wish really) tub is probably 3-4 oz per plant, DEPENDING ON THE GALLONS OF THE TOTE AND THE NUTRIENTS YOU USE.


Hope that helped at least somewhat..I still think aeroponics is a work in progress and something that can always be improved upon..it deserves far more attention than the subject of insufficient LEDS I know that much.


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## stescugeorge (Apr 18, 2010)

Thanks dude! I'm really sticking to organic soil growing. Peace, and thanks for taking the time to answer!


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## DaPurjn1 (Apr 20, 2010)

Lamafia ck said:


> i got a ph problem i'll check the ph every night and every night is around 7 i always bring it down to 5.2 but it wont stay at 5.2 i checkd it this morning and its already 7
> the bottom leaves r yellowing and i have no idea wat to do ???
> i use around 4 gallon of poland spring water i never used tap water i sterelize my system every week and i have no clue wats making the ph go up


Dont Worry, be happy. The Ph wont stay still if youre using any kind of "recycycling" system simply due to the salt deposits formed and left behind by the constant wet/dry process. Advanced Nutes are said to buffer themself.


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## Joker209 (Apr 21, 2010)

In regards to the soil to hydro conversion.
I do it all the time guys it's no big deal as long as the roots aren't too crazy. I spent over 2 hours on 2 days (4 hours total) washing soil out of roots until there was no soil left in the roots. Now they all have new roots and the old roots have dried up and fallen off.

To remove a plant from soil and prep it for hydro:
Take your pot and soak the soil with water, after making "soil soup" just slowly remove the plant from the soil being as delicate with the root system (if you break some roots no worries they grow new) as not to break too much of the root ball away. You then hold the plant by the stalk and wash the roots in a strainer until all soil, sticks, wood chips, rocks, perlite.... Whatever there is remove it til you only have roots. Take a net cup and feed the roots through the holes to allow them to dangle into the res (if using a 1 container hydro system) and just monitor them for the next 48 hours.


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## WWShadow (Apr 27, 2010)

All I can say is Holy Crap!! is this using Al's sog system?


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## WWShadow (Apr 27, 2010)

Oops, that was directed to GypsyBush. gotta learn the system, lol


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## ShoAL paTroL (Apr 28, 2010)

How does your garden grow??? 

mine is prop215&SB420 compliant 
LARRY OG
day 27
2 600w dig
1 1k mag
ebb/flow
heavy16, Humboldts own & alot of love 
View attachment 906148 
View attachment 906149
View attachment 906150
View attachment 906151
View attachment 906153
View attachment 906154


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## WWShadow (Apr 29, 2010)

Man, there are a lot of hydro systems to choose from! I decided not to buy any of them. I made 2 diy bubblers from black 27 gallon totes. I painted the lids white. I have 2 large air stones in each one. They look like they could benefit from one more. I am using regular veggies to try them out on. I started a bunch of different seeds in jiffy pellets. I wasn&#8217;t sure (at the time) exactly how to go about germinating them. Always had a garden growing up, but I haven&#8217;t touched a plant in over 20 years!
So far so good all that is in the res is water & a root stimulator, roots are going crazy!!! 
I have seen some really huge root masses in this thread. How do the ppl that use an aero-flo handle the root mass? 
I would encourage all the noobs ( I plan to reference it often) to read this entire thread (except the duplicate ?&#8217;s). Also read all the wisdom left behind by Al B. Fuct Thanks to all the wise growers on RIU!! Now if they would just change the laws where I live I could be happier, lol. I could just move&#8230;


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## ShoAL paTroL (Apr 30, 2010)

heres one with the lights off.iam thinking things are good for 4weeks.
iam down for any input


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## Joker209 (Apr 30, 2010)

WWShadow said:


> Man, there are a lot of hydro systems to choose from! I decided not to buy any of them. I made 2 diy bubblers from black 27 gallon totes. I painted the lids white. I have 2 large air stones in each one. They look like they could benefit from one more. I am using regular veggies to try them out on. I started a bunch of different seeds in jiffy pellets. I wasnt sure (at the time) exactly how to go about germinating them. Always had a garden growing up, but I havent touched a plant in over 20 years!
> So far so good all that is in the res is water & a root stimulator, roots are going crazy!!!
> I have seen some really huge root masses in this thread. How do the ppl that use an aero-flo handle the root mass?
> I would encourage all the noobs ( I plan to reference it often) to read this entire thread (except the duplicate ?s). Also read all the wisdom left behind by Al B. Fuct Thanks to all the wise growers on RIU!! Now if they would just change the laws where I live I could be happier, lol. I could just move


Just remember with DWC too many bubbles are never enough haha. The more air you have in your water the stronger, healthier, and faster your plants will grow. I run all DWC in my grow room and I love it. I plan on going to aero or ebb and flow eventually but right now I am loving the simplicity of the DWC. I used to grow in soil for years and helped tend a friend of mine's garden (I knew more about growing haha) which was all hydroponics. He had about 5 different Hydro set ups lol. I had never grown my own nor did I even try setting up my hydro before due to noise n shit. (Parents...) I have my mother plants in soil and everything else in DWC and probably won't change that any time soon... Good luck on the grow and hope things turn out for you. Keep us updated man start a journal when you start. Check out the germination thread in my signature below on the right.


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## WWShadow (May 3, 2010)

So how much odor can I expect from 1 to 2 plants? Does they always produce a strong odor or is it only during the flowering stage? Also a question about SOG technique in Al's diagram show 4 trays. is the only difference in the trays the amount of nutes they recieve?Or am I missing something else?


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## Joker209 (May 3, 2010)

Al has the same concept I was using many years ago. The first tub in flower is for the plants that are week 1 and 2, the next tub is 3 and 4 the next 5 and 6 and the last 7 and 8. I personally like a backup tub for those who don't look quite done at 8 weeks. Hope this helps. The nutes are typically the same (not exactly perfect obv)


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## smokyghost (May 4, 2010)

Hey, Im a dirt bag who wants to go hydro any chance anyone here wants to help me out with instruction?


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## Joker209 (May 4, 2010)

I will help where I can but don't expect me to hold your hand through it all homie  I will help if you ask me questions but honestly everything you need to know is on the last 59 pages dude. I can honestly say the only way to learn hydroponics is to try hydroponics. You should read up on hydroponics but be warned there is a lot of different things out there you could try. I am in controversy about what hydroponic setup I want to try next lol I run DWC and absolutely LOVE it! It has got to be 1 of the easiest hydroponics methods I have tried. I went with a 60 site aeroponic grow and it was disastrous. I killed everything a week after I started it but maybe it was just me or they are a lot of work. Idk which but eh not for me  I tried DWC after that and fell in love lol Only way to know tho is to try it


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## WWShadow (May 4, 2010)

Joker209 said:


> Al has the same concept I was using many years ago. The first tub in flower is for the plants that are week 1 and 2, the next tub is 3 and 4 the next 5 and 6 and the last 7 and 8. I personally like a backup tub for those who don't look quite done at 8 weeks. Hope this helps. The nutes are typically the same (not exactly perfect obv)


I read a post about that soemone had some that wasn't ready at the 8week mark & was gonna give'm another 2wks to finish up.
My test grow with the veggies is lookin pretty good..
I gotta build another system to move them into once I get the greenhouse built. 
Hydroponics has become an obsession for me now, lol
Will the bubblers work for well clones & vegging mums?


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## Joker209 (May 5, 2010)

Oh yea man want me to post some pictures of my DWC system and how I run everything?


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## WWShadow (May 5, 2010)

Joker209 said:


> Oh yea man want me to post some pictures of my DWC system and how I run everything?


that would be great, thx Joker!!


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## Joker209 (May 5, 2010)

Grow room from flower chamber

Grow room from door

Tabatha 4-15-10

Tabatha 4-15-10 (Leaf)

Tabatha 4-15-10 (Roots)

Tank 1 flower 4-15-10

Tank 2 veg 4-15-10 (2)


If you go back a page or 2 you will see how I did my DWC step by step basically. I get great success with this as well as faster growth than soil. My ladies look beautiful and honestly if I skip a week or 2 on their flush they don't mind. Tabatha on the other hand if you forget her for a week she will start to wilt from drinking too much water lol


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## WWShadow (May 6, 2010)

hmmm, I got the cheap ass blue ones. Next run I make to Petsmart I'll check out what they have. the last pic, is that clones/seedlings & how many do you have in the tub? They look great! the leavese on Tabitha are huge!! I never imagined them getting that big! thanks for the pics & help. ONce my greenhouse is up the veggies will move into the DIY aeroflo I am gonna make & my 24 plant bubblers will work just fine for there intended use.


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## Joker209 (May 6, 2010)

Cheap ass Wal-Mart air stones wont work... They get clogged the first week and you WILL lose plants... I run 2-4 air stones per tub depending on the air pump. I want to go with this air pump for my new setup... ~> 950GPH Airpump for $35 <~ the air stones are from Petco and you can order those online also... ~> Petco Air Stones <~ These are amazing for DWC and work great. They are the best I have used and I probably will stick with these.
"is that clones/seedlings & how many do you have in the tub? "
You ready for this answer?
There are 6 females and 1 males in that tub, almost all clones. Tabatha is actually a clone from a very dank and sweet mama. As you can see they are only under 2 dual tube shop lights. I bought daylight bulbs for them from Lowes. My fixtures are for T12 but work just fine for T8 and if you can get your hands on them HOT5 (that's High Output T5's) are the best if you are going with tube lights. Cfls work well also as you can see over Tabatha I only have 3 bulbs and she grows like that


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## WWShadow (May 7, 2010)

those are some good looking clones! I thought there had to be at least a dozen. My wal-mart stones are just gonna have to hold out another week, lol. I suppose I could alway just poke holes in the air lines. I have a enough of it....


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## Joker209 (May 7, 2010)

I just used 1 of those plastic T's and made a loop to go under my plant with the air hose full of holes.


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## UrbanAerO (May 11, 2010)

1-1000watt HPS in liquid cooled on a light mover/rail over 40 plants. Only about 2lbs but some very tasty smoke. had some root issues with this one also so it should of been like 4 lbs, but this will have to do.


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## Joker209 (May 11, 2010)

Hey UA? You are having troubles with your roots... What problems? If root rot is a problem are you using any maintenance chems? Cleaners? Buffers? What supplements and nutes are you using?


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## UrbanAerO (May 12, 2010)

house and garden van de zwaan= aqua flakes a&b,drip clean, root excelurator, bud xl, top booster. botanicare=silica blast, sweet, blast off, hydroplex. Mad farmers Nutz and ph up/down, M.O.A.B . maybe a few I missed but basically all of these. I think I have the root rot issue taken care of by cutting back the watering.


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## Joker209 (May 12, 2010)

Have you added H2o2 or Hygrozyme into your res? I love those 2 wonderful little cleaners!


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## jumboSWISHER (May 16, 2010)

heyy everybody! =]
im in the process of making my first hydro system, goona go with a NFT setup. im just wondering if anyone can point me towards some info on it. 
like how often to clean/change resivoir water, how often i will need to add nutes, check ph,etc...
thanks a MILLION to ne one tht can help =]


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## Joker209 (May 16, 2010)

If you haven't already I would suggest checking this site for every Nft question you have. I have researched it a lot on this site and you should be able to find it fairly easy too..


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## jumboSWISHER (May 16, 2010)

iv searched like crazy, havent found to much info on it. iv found like how to build one,history on it,how it works, just basics ya kno. nothing very technical about nutes,etc.. 
still looking tho haha


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## Joker209 (May 16, 2010)

Look for Nutrient Film Technique all spelled out instead of NFT and you may get somewhere. You can ask on my " https://www.rollitup.org/newbie-central/320357-if-i-dont-know-answer.html " thread and I will look it up and make sure people find an answer for you.


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## jumboSWISHER (May 16, 2010)

alright bro, ill hit up your other thread if i dont find my answers =]
thnx man


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## Joker209 (May 16, 2010)

I went and answered it man and I will look into it for you, good luck bud.


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## 96ws6 (May 20, 2010)

this prolly isnt good, but i by flush do you mean change the water? LOL because i have 2 plants in seperate hydro setups and i havent changed the water in either one since day 1!!! plants seem to be doing great though..and i dont have any nutrients to add to the water..cant find it anywhere (the hydro thing was just for shits n giggles since im way new to all of this growing)


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## ImTheFireMan (May 20, 2010)

96ws6 said:


> this prolly isnt good, but i by flush do you mean change the water? LOL because i have 2 plants in seperate hydro setups and i havent changed the water in either one since day 1!!! plants seem to be doing great though..and i dont have any nutrients to add to the water..cant find it anywhere (the hydro thing was just for shits n giggles since im way new to all of this growing)



well, if you are giving them nutrients and you want to change from veg nutes to flower nutes, its a good idea to flush first. 
flush would mean to use just clean ph'd water, with no nutes. 

go to your local hydroponics store, they will have the nutes you need.
i would probably advise something that comes premixed. like gh floranova.


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## Joker209 (May 20, 2010)

Flush means to empty the res and wash the extra salts out of the bucket before adding your nutrients into a new clean res. I flush my system once every 2-3 weeks and my plants love it. If the salts build up too much you may end up with root rot and will kill your plants. Salt buildup is from the TDS(total dissolved solubles) you have in your water. Nutrients add to the TDS of the water in your res. Washing once every so often (or flushing) helps to prevent problems like root rot and nutrient lockout. Hope this helps.


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## Sodinukas (May 22, 2010)

Hi,
I was wondering is there possible to plant seeds in clay pebbles just after germination? (In wilma system) And if it is possible how to do that? Once i saw a pic of this, but I'm not sure if there wasn't any rockwool under pebbles.  Sorry for stupid question.  I'm new to hydro.


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## wow! (May 22, 2010)

hey all, way new to this but just one question right now,,, how the hell do you know when the rockwool cube has enough water? can I weigh it on a scale or someothing

any advice welcome much respect


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## Sodinukas (May 22, 2010)

I suggest not weigh them or other shit. Just keep an eye on your plants ant they let you know. By the way how old your plants are?


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## wow! (May 22, 2010)

Sodinukas said:


> I suggest not weigh them or other shit. Just keep an eye on your plants ant they let you know. By the way how old your plants are?


like two weeks, i've been readin here for a minute couple sick grows in here one foll growing bonzai trees and shit


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## Joker209 (May 22, 2010)

Sodinukas said:


> Hi,
> I was wondering is there possible to plant seeds in clay pebbles just after germination? (In wilma system) And if it is possible how to do that? Once i saw a pic of this, but I'm not sure if there wasn't any rockwool under pebbles.  Sorry for stupid question.  I'm new to hydro.


 I do all the time. Check out the link in my thread entitled "How to Germinate Seeds" You just let them go a few days longer then stick them root down in a net cup with hydroton surrounding it for support. Be very gentle with laying the pellets as they can snap the plant easy...


wow! said:


> hey all, way new to this but just one question right now,,, how the hell do you know when the rockwool cube has enough water? can I weigh it on a scale or someothing
> 
> any advice welcome much respect


 If germinating or rooting in the rockwool cubes they should weight between 25-30 grams on a scale. You can weigh them but it isn't necessary unless you want to assure 100% control over your grow.


Sodinukas said:


> I suggest not weigh them or other shit. Just keep an eye on your plants ant they let you know. By the way how old your plants are?


 You should weigh if using to germ or root... Should be more specific bud


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## Cernunnos (May 22, 2010)

I got a hydroponic system from a friend who used to grow vegetable. But the cups he passed me are only the size of a shot glass which I am not sure will that be enough for a mature plant... I will be sticking to mostly shorter strains, so what would be a good size for cups for them? Thanks in advance for any answers!


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## Joker209 (May 22, 2010)

Cernunnos said:


> I got a hydroponic system from a friend who used to grow vegetable. But the cups he passed me are only the size of a shot glass which I am not sure will that be enough for a mature plant... I will be sticking to mostly shorter strains, so what would be a good size for cups for them? Thanks in advance for any answers!


 My systems run 2 and 3 inch net pots and it works great for them. Both sizes are sufficient to take a plant through to harvest.


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## Sodinukas (May 23, 2010)

I also would like to ask. Which system is better Atami wilma or nft?


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## Joker209 (May 23, 2010)

Other people can't usually answer questions like that because it's personal preference. I personally haven't tried any of those so can't answer that personally


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## smokendude420 (May 23, 2010)

hello,

I built a couple of hydro systems and I used these knitting sheets rolled in cones for net cups (net cups weren't available to me when I made the system) I was wondering if the roots are goin to be consricted by the 1/8 inch holes in my net cones. Picutre below.


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## Joker209 (May 23, 2010)

Yea and no. If you cut off the bottom it will work great as the plants get smaller roots towards the top of the root system but below they have what's called a tap root and tend to grow pretty big lol My biggest mother has a tap root that's an inch around. That may or may now stretch enough for them to grow through properly. Try a hole in the bottom of it and it should work out ok.


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## smokendude420 (May 23, 2010)

thanks that is a good idea. i will prolly get net pots for my next grow. if you have any other helpful hints about my grow I can use all the help I can get. please take look at them

https://www.rollitup.org/blogs/blog801-first-timer.html
https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/333219-first-timer.html


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## Joker209 (May 23, 2010)

I will be there to help where I can. It's what I do best 

Let me note on your pictures real quick hope you don't mind. 
In this picture you show the air pumps but I'm seeing them being below water level is that so?
https://www.rollitup.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=947762&d=1274414481
If you have your air pumps below water level and have a power outage the water will back draw and go right into your pumps and fry them...
If you look at this picture
https://www.rollitup.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=947755&d=1274414341
you will see the roots are actually bound up and stuck in the cups where they aren't getting much water.
You can see them binding up here too in both of these pictures. 
https://www.rollitup.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=947753&d=1274414298
https://www.rollitup.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=947759&d=1274414408
You may consider changing your air stones to something with a little more give. Those are cheap for a reason lol I have used the Wal-Mart brand air stones too. You should go to petco and find the black ones.
https://www.rollitup.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=947768&d=1274414631
You also might want to make your water level higher lol They drink a lot when they get bigger.
You are using rockwool cubes correct? If so you should seriously consider cutting about 1 inch below the cubes so the roots have nothing but free space. Give it a try and hopefully by next grow you have the proper net cups. Check out this picture of my "net pots" 
https://www.rollitup.org/attachments/indoor-growing/723514d1266835035-my-first-riu-grow-journal-jblwf.jpg
https://www.rollitup.org/attachments/indoor-growing/723513d1266835035-my-first-riu-grow-journal-fhi4b.jpg


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## smokendude420 (May 23, 2010)

thanks for input, 

i have already cut the bottom out of all that i could, cept the ones where i wold have to cut up the root system, ill have to let them go, dont want to risk hurting the root system, the plants are looking pretty good i think. any idea on getting the roots freed up without hurting them in these pics?https://www.rollitup.org/attachment.p...3&d=1274414298
https://www.rollitup.org/attachment.p...9&d=1274414408

i thought that the check valves would prevent the water from goin into the air pump, ill just set them on the lid i guess, thanks for looking out.

i will look into new airstones, i am wanting one of those industrial pumps that i can hook into all 5 of my totes, each contains 4 plants, i will get new air stones when i do that i hope. 

I lost my income since i started this endevor, straped for cash, tough times right now, i even quit tokeing so i can get a new job...LOTS of stress at home, have baby otw to, nov. any online store for good pump/airstones(we live in small town)

i usually keep atleast 1 gallon per plant, should i have more? what you see is the plants consumption over course of 1 week, they drank about half the water,is that normal? i change nutes every 2 to 3 weeks, depending on water levels, will post more pics next time i change...how should i go about adding, full nutrient mix or just ph water?

i use micro rockwol plugs...i use red lava rock, i prolly shouldnt put any under the rockwool plug eh.

thanks for advise i will listen to anyone who has more exp then me, i am new to this.


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## Joker209 (May 24, 2010)

smokendude420 said:


> thanks for input,
> i have already cut the bottom out of all that i could, cept the ones where i wold have to cut up th eroot system, ill have to let them go, dont want to risk hurting the root system, the plants are looking pretty good i think. any idea on getting the roots freed up without hurting them in these pics?https://www.rollitup.org/attachment.p...3&d=1274414298
> https://www.rollitup.org/attachment.p...9&d=1274414408
> *I would say cut above the root ball and let the plastic dangle until you harvest then cut it out*
> ...


 Well not a problem bud I have been growing for over 5 years and have turned it into a full time hobby  Was better than banging and keeps me outta trouble


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## smokendude420 (May 24, 2010)

thanks again i like the idea of cutting and let the plastic dangle...good idea.


I have an air compressor...small pan compressor...I can regulate the pressure and it will supply anywhere fro 0 to 240 psi, can i use this as an air pump, and put spliters on it, if so what psi should i use for 5 air stones? or would this not be a good idea due to condensation in the tank?


sorry for bombarding you with questions, i just had alot of them...i'll get this figured out soon enough. i do not plan on giving up, unless i run out money for nutes...they are expensive.


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## Joker209 (May 24, 2010)

Yea I'm there with you on that man I spend $30 on 3 nutes man and that shit adds up after a while lol. As far as the bombarding it's completely fine. I asked a lot of questions in the beginning to so I don't fret on that shit dude. I would have to say no to the air compressor as I think they suck too much dust n shit from the air to be considered "Good air" for the roots... They use a vacuum basically to compress the air into the tank that you feed into the water of your babies...


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## smokendude420 (May 24, 2010)

ya i can see that...i will have to work my air supply i guess. i was really hopeing to get me new hps, what do you think is more important at this point, i have split all my veg lights up to accomodate both the flower and veg side, its one big room atm i still have to get seperate ventalation and section off the flowering area, plant are not pre-flowered yet anyway.


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## Joker209 (May 24, 2010)

smokendude420 said:


> ya i can see that...i will have to work my air supply i guess. i was really hopeing to get me new hps, what do you think is more important at this point, i have split all my veg lights up to accomodate both the flower and veg side, its one big room atm i still have to get seperate ventalation and section off the flowering area, plant are not pre-flowered yet anyway.


 You tell me bud. If you got your light taken away what would happen? If you took your air away what would happen  These are living things 
You should visit and read my cheap throw together grow room in my first riu journal.


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## Eclipse46 (May 26, 2010)

I need a mentor! I am growing in soil indoor now. I am moving to the Palm Springs area soon and I had an idea. What about outdoor Hydro? I had an idea but I really have no idea. Anyone have a clue?...can this be done with the intense heat?


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## Joker209 (May 26, 2010)

Yea but it will require a lot more maintenance and more chillers than normal. I am going to do an outdoor DWC also


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## Humboldt14 (May 26, 2010)

can your PH in your rez. with a flood and drain table fluxuate a little example- 5.5 to 6.0 with out hurting the plants?​


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## ImTheFireMan (May 26, 2010)

Humboldt14 said:


> can your PH in your rez. with a flood and drain table fluxuate a little example- 5.5 to 6.0 with out hurting the plants?​



well mine goes from 5.8-6 all the times and i keep it there.
5.5 to 6.0 is not a lot of fluctuation, but it might be enough to cause nutrient lock out. 
from personal experience i would say i dont think it will hurt anything, but i'm no botanist tho.


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## Humboldt14 (May 26, 2010)

ImTheFireMan said:


> well mine goes from 5.8-6 all the times and i keep it there.
> 5.5 to 6.0 is not a lot of fluctuation, but it might be enough to cause nutrient lock out.
> from personal experience i would say i dont think it will hurt anything, but i'm no botanist tho.


thanks man


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## Joker209 (May 26, 2010)

ImTheFireMan said:


> well mine goes from 5.8-6 all the times and i keep it there.
> 5.5 to 6.0 is not a lot of fluctuation, but it might be enough to cause nutrient lock out.
> from personal experience i would say i dont think it will hurt anything, but i'm no botanist tho.


 Not typically actually. You can have your ph as high as 7.5 before it actually hurts the plants and even then it would have to be a fluctuation like 5.0-7.0 or visa versa. Higher or lower numbers too but that would cause nute lockout as well as some Ph burn. If you read a little into some botany books you can find a lot out about Ph and how they fluctuate. Sometimes they wont fluctuate for years then boom all of a sudden you get a bump (down or up) and you get burns on your plants. I've always been interested in botany


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## zmb187 (May 27, 2010)

I'm starting a hydro setup,got all the components in mind for a shopping list twomarrow.I have five blue mystic seeds just sprouting in rockwool.I already have a big bag of hydrocorn.So,my question is,can I use the nutes I have for feedings in any amounts?I have the Fox Farm soil trio,big bloom,grow big and tiger bloom.


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## Joker209 (May 27, 2010)

If I were you I would google the feeding schedule and instructions on it. Usually there is certain amounts that have been safely tested for years and charted. Hope that helps some


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## Cernunnos (May 28, 2010)

A question on hydroponic nutrient.. The shop I got my nutrients from have a formula for "leafy and herbs" and another for "flower and fruits"... Which one is better for me, or do I need to get both formulas for different stages,


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## Joker209 (May 29, 2010)

Cernunnos said:


> A question on hydroponic nutrient.. The shop I got my nutrients from have a formula for "leafy and herbs" and another for "flower and fruits"... Which one is better for me, or do I need to get both formulas for different stages,


 The Leafy and Herbs 1 you are referring to is a Veg nute which will be a part of your plants life. The Flower and Fruit 1 you are referring to is a Flower nute which will be another part of your plants life. Therefore you will need them both bud


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## Humboldt14 (May 29, 2010)

Joker209 said:


> If I were you I would google the feeding schedule and instructions on it. Usually there is certain amounts that have been safely tested for years and charted. Hope that helps some


good info bro..............


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## Humboldt14 (May 29, 2010)

Eclipse46 said:


> I need a mentor! I am growing in soil indoor now. I am moving to the Palm Springs area soon and I had an idea. What about outdoor Hydro? I had an idea but I really have no idea. Anyone have a clue?...can this be done with the intense heat?


you can most def run into alot of problems besides just the heat in palm springs, you would also run into contamination probs i would think, like stuff getting into the rez. just a theroy thoe I guess you will not unless you try it. I have mest sombody who did it in Florida but it was in a screened in area and i dont know how it turned out.


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## Humboldt14 (May 29, 2010)

smokendude420 said:


> hello,
> 
> I built a couple of hydro systems and I used these knitting sheets rolled in cones for net cups (net cups weren't available to me when I made the system) I was wondering if the roots are goin to be consricted by the 1/8 inch holes in my net cones. Picutre below.
> 
> View attachment 953374


 
good idea..... but i do agree that you would need to open up the bottom a little


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## Joker209 (May 29, 2010)

Humboldt14 said:


> you can most def run into alot of problems besides just the heat in palm springs, you would also run into contamination probs i would think, like stuff getting into the rez. just a theroy thoe I guess you will not unless you try it. I have mest sombody who did it in Florida but it was in a screened in area and i dont know how it turned out.





Humboldt14 said:


> good info bro..............





Humboldt14 said:


> good idea..... but i do agree that you would need to open up the bottom a little


 Hey bud thanks for the words  Multi-quoting is much easier than replying to each individuals posts. Here is a picture how how to multi-quote.
First you need to click the "Multi-Quote" button on the bottom right next to "Reply With Quote" (to the right  ) and there should be a blue check mark on all of the posts you clicked. On the very last 1 click Reply With Quote then reply to each 1 in the same post 
Attached is an image depicting these instructions.


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## smokendude420 (May 29, 2010)

Humboldt14 said:


> good idea..... but i do agree that you would need to open up the bottom a little


thank you for looking. i have since came up about an inch from the bottom of the cone and cut the bottom off. in a couple of the largest plants there is a noticable difernce in the way the roots grow, i will be doing a nutrient change when my hps arrives so we will see how it goes with a superior light and possibly a transition set of nutrients for the plants that are farther along.
will be posting a thread on my grow room when my hps arrives. i will also be makeing a carbon filter and building a blower box for exhaust on my flowering room.


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## las fingerez (May 30, 2010)

hi. liking the info, just been reading through. just dipping my toes in the water making the move over from coco + dirt lol. coz of messing around with the ec and ph for the coco its quite easy i dont have 2 worry about when to water and who's gonna water them when i'm away. i just made a simple bubbler from a spare fish tank pump. using formulex as i had some kicking around and a bat crap tea every now and again seems 2 be working ok so far. 

anyways just a quick question, whats the maximum ec in full fower that u guys use in hydro? i dont go higher than 2.0 in coco, 2.2 burned my blue cheese but not my lemon haze, i'm guessing its pretty much the same just wondered what u lot did  thanks in advance


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## SHAGGYTODOPE (May 31, 2010)

Dont expect them to truely match prices like they claim! Thier prices are outrageous! $199.00 for a 5 gallon of Botanicare pure blend pro, thats $1 under MSRP! They claim to match or beat anyones price even internet prices but after printing the price for Botanicare pure blend pro grow and bloom in 5 gallon sizes and bringing them with me they said they would match the price but charge me the $100.00 shipping I would have paid if I ordered on the internet? Is that a price match? I think not! They did the same thing to me on a 4x4 foot ebb and flow tray 2 months ago. So if you think your going to get a price match you better be prepared to pay them for the shipping you would have to pay also, What crap!!!! I will take my business elsewhere!


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## Joker209 (Jun 1, 2010)

Dude thanks for posting that here. Now those out there can know to stay away from there. +Rep bud


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## socaldanky (Jun 1, 2010)

this is gonna sound fuckin stupid but can you do hydroponics with a seed? if so how?


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## ImTheFireMan (Jun 1, 2010)

socaldanky said:


> this is gonna sound fuckin stupid but can you do hydroponics with a seed? if so how?



do you mean the germinating process? or do you mean its whole life?

welcome to RIU. lol
sounds like someone found a bagseed and wants to dip into the hydro? lol

yes of course you can. germinate that son of a bitch and get it in some rockwool, then read everything you can.


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## Joker209 (Jun 1, 2010)

socaldanky said:


> this is gonna sound fuckin stupid but can you do hydroponics with a seed? if so how?


In this thread I teach you how to germinate seeds as well as how to plant them. Good luck and if you need help feel free to drop me a line with any questions.
*https://www.rollitup.org/newbie-central/321101-how-germinate-seeds.html
*If you encounter any problems drop by my thread here:
*https://www.rollitup.org/newbie-central/320357-if-i-dont-know-answer.html
*


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## socaldanky (Jun 1, 2010)

i was so confused with the whole hydroponics thing but thats helps haha


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## ImTheFireMan (Jun 1, 2010)

socaldanky said:


> i was so confused with the whole hydroponics thing but thats helps haha


ya hydro is just the method. soil-less is another way of putting it.


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## socaldanky (Jun 1, 2010)

any tips on how to get started? casue im gonna start with seeds not clones. i kno i need to germinate them but after that i get lost as to like how to set up a proper mini hydroponics


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## ImTheFireMan (Jun 1, 2010)

well i guess you can start by deciding what mediums will work best for you in your situation. 

i do a rockwool drip system. its easier for me cuz i live in an apartment, and rather than lugging multiple bags of soil i just carry one big box of rockwools. 

but theres flood and drain, dwc, drip, wic. 
google these terms and type "rollitup" after and you should get loads of threads and insight on whats best for you.


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## socaldanky (Jun 1, 2010)

well since i live at home with my parents i wanted to build a PC grow box that was run hydroponics. i thought that would be pretty cool..i just need some tips to point me in the right direction


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## ImTheFireMan (Jun 1, 2010)

i say the risk isnt worth it. wait til you move out and do it major. or look on here for pc grow journals and follow someones model. 
i seen a kid do hydro in a pc grow box. its possible, its just too much risk for how little amount of tree you get back. 
grow them inside and stick them outside within the next month and you'll be ok by october.


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## socaldanky (Jun 1, 2010)

i would never get caught cause my parents NEVER come in my room..the point of the PC box is for experience and self use .....stay high


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## EL95 (Jun 9, 2010)

I decided to try hydro growing after a few good grows in soil. I have a set up similar to this one, plastic tote, water pump, air stones, and the irrigation distributor, http://www.stealthhydroponics.com/pr...rod=16&xSec=53 (the one that plays on the video) I want to know if I need to set up a timer on the water pump to allow the rockwool, and hydroton to dry then turn on again? I am not using a dripper, just an open hose. I have tried two different times and my seedlings die each time. I have the pump set up to be on 24/7 and the hose is directly on the side of the rockwool cube through the net pot. The water level sits about a foot below the bottom of the pots. With the air stones on 24/7 also.

One more question when the roots reach the water do I have to stop using nutrients, if so then when do you use the bloom nutrients? If the roots reach the water


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## DoinIt2Gether (Jun 15, 2010)

My caregiver has decided to try waterfarming. We went to the grow shop yesterday to get the stuff to make our own set-up. We were going to go with sprayers, but they didn't have all the parts for it, so we went with drip. The guy at the shop said that drip is easier for beginners because there aren't as many parts to clog or malfunction. 

We have a standard size Rubbermaid tub. We cut 6 holes in the top for our 3" net cups which will be filled with hydroten. This is where my first question comes up...
I can use my drip system for rooting clones too, can't I? Would I just stick them in the neoprene circles and then in the cups of hydroten? Once they start getting roots out the bottom, should I remove the neoprene circles or not? I have been told I can do it from seed with this system too, if I just put the seed in rapid rooter pellets and then into the hydroten, anyone got an opinion on this? 

There will be WW and Mids growing in the same tub, there aren't enough WW's to fill the box yet. We will just focus on the WW's, and let the mids do as they will. 

I also managed to get some free samples of hydro nutes from the guy at the grow shop. They are Supernatural brand. I got a 3 pack that includes Gro Aqua, Bloom Aqua, and Super Boost. He also gave me a sample of Supernatural Superlicious sweetening agent, and one of some Root Burst Powder, also by Supernatural. 

I am going to do some more reading on hydro...Please please please share any advice or tips you may have..


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## ImTheFireMan (Jun 18, 2010)

DoinIt2Gether said:


> We have a standard size Rubbermaid tub. We cut 6 holes in the top for our 3" net cups which will be filled with hydroten. This is where my first question comes up...
> I can use my drip system for rooting clones too, can't I? Would I just stick them in the neoprene circles and then in the cups of hydroten? Once they start getting roots out the bottom, should I remove the neoprene circles or not? I have been told I can do it from seed with this system too, if I just put the seed in rapid rooter pellets and then into the hydroten, anyone got an opinion on this?
> 
> There will be WW and Mids growing in the same tub, there aren't enough WW's to fill the box yet. We will just focus on the WW's, and let the mids do as they will.
> ...



i wouldnt put the unrooted stems into the hydroton because there isnt enough contact between the stem itself and the media at hand. 
i would put them, like you said, in rapid rooters or rockwool then after roots appear slide them into the hydroton. 
you can also do seed like this. 
you might want to build a little aero cloner or just root them in rockwools or rapid rooters. 

the neoprene is just there to hold it in place. so after roots show, you should take the neoprene off to re use on another clone.


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## ImTheFireMan (Jun 18, 2010)

EL95 said:


> I decided to try hydro growing after a few good grows in soil. I have a set up similar to this one, plastic tote, water pump, air stones, and the irrigation distributor, http://www.stealthhydroponics.com/pr...rod=16&xSec=53 (the one that plays on the video) I want to know if I need to set up a timer on the water pump to allow the rockwool, and hydroton to dry then turn on again? I am not using a dripper, just an open hose. I have tried two different times and my seedlings die each time. I have the pump set up to be on 24/7 and the hose is directly on the side of the rockwool cube through the net pot. The water level sits about a foot below the bottom of the pots. With the air stones on 24/7 also.
> 
> One more question when the roots reach the water do I have to stop using nutrients, if so then when do you use the bloom nutrients? If the roots reach the water



i'm not a dwc expert so i encourage anyone that knows better to correct anything i might say that is wrong....

i know that you want to keep the rockwool moist, but not dripping all the time. 
but its to my understanding once the roots come out of the rockwool and they are in hydroton i would think a constant 24/7 water would be ok. 
also to my understanding, the roots can touch the water as long as there is space between the water and the net pots for the roots to have air i imagine they will thrive. 
once EDIT: oh shit i hella just stopped typing mid thought lol. my bad i forgot what i was gonna say after once...


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## DoinIt2Gether (Jun 18, 2010)

ImTheFireMan said:


> i'm not a dwc expert so i encourage anyone that knows better to correct anything i might say that is wrong....
> 
> i know that you want to keep the rockwool moist, but not dripping all the time.
> but its to my understanding once the roots come out of the rockwool and they are in hydroton i would think a constant 24/7 water would be ok.
> ...


I'm not an expert either, but Roseman is, and he says 24/7 is fine all the time, as long as it is a very light trickle. Once the roots touch the water u can take out the feeding tubes. Once the roots get closer to the bottom of the rez u can unplug and take out the water pump and manifold so the roots dont get sucked in and burn up ur pump. There should be about 2 inches of space between the bottom of the net pots and the top of the water. The spray from the airstones should wet the hydroten, but not soak it.


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## bigguy73 (Jun 18, 2010)

Can someboudy walk me though how to top my plants help


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## ImTheFireMan (Jun 18, 2010)

bigguy73 said:


> Can someboudy walk me though how to top my plants help


its quite simple actually. 
just cut the main stem at the newest growth/node(the very very top).
then you can either try to root that cutting you just cut or throw it away. 

wait 10 days to 2 weeks after you do this before you flower or take more clones.


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## DoinIt2Gether (Jun 19, 2010)

bigguy73 said:


> Can someboudy walk me though how to top my plants help


It is ideal to do them when they are still small. You want to cut them between the second and third node if you can, but if that means that u cut off alot of plant just do it where u can. The point of topping between the second and third node is that it will cause the plant to have 4 main colas instead of 1. Topping it later in the vegging cycle is done primarily to keep the plant shorter and bushier.


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## Joker209 (Jun 20, 2010)

bigguy73 said:


> Can someboudy walk me though how to top my plants help


 For Topping, LST, and Super Cropping please refer to this post.
https://www.rollitup.org/newbie-central/320357-if-i-dont-know-answer-14.html#post4296016


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## big smoker101 (Jun 24, 2010)

iv just bought auto pots im goiny use them with soil it says it cool to do taht wat u think


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## Matchbox (Jun 25, 2010)

I can't actually read through 127 pages so sorry if this has already been asked 

but does anyone have any experience using an nft system, I'm a 1st time grower and already got it all set up.... probably not the cleverest of ideas but hey i liked the idea XD

you can look at my lil journal thing for a picture, i think its in my sig but atm im still germinating my seeds.

thanks!


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## john7894 (Jun 27, 2010)

Does anyone know how often to feed the plants during flowering. Sorry if this has been brought up in this thread, but I too do not want to read 127 pages. Quickly on my system: I have a bucket-drain ebb and flo system that is controlled by one resi and a brain going to the different buckets. Our medium is hydroton clay pellets on the bottom half of the buckets and rockwool cubes on the top half. When we feed the brain pumps the nutrients for an hour and then drains. My nutrients and pH is good, but how often should I feed. I have read that you should feed 2 or 3 times a day with the system I have. 
My friend and I are arguing about when we should feed. We both agree that we should only feed while the lights are on and that we should feed first right when they wake up for their 12-hour day. He believes we should feed again three hours later so the roots have about 8 hours left to dry out in the light (to avoid root rot). I believe that we should spread out the 2nd feed to about 6 hrs after the first to dry out the roots inbetween the two feeds. We are both new to growing for the most part and an advanced growing opinion would be great!


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## WWShadow (Jun 30, 2010)

I read this entire thread before I planted anything! Some of it I read more than once. thanks to *Joker209* for all the help and the rest of the fine ppl on here. latest update.
I'm a spacey bastard I guess. I kept forgetting where I found info at so I did a lot of reading. My biggest problem was white slime!!!!!! I had three tubs with 12 3" cups in each. most of those had 2 plants in each cup. I was testing vegtables as I tend to kill plants just by looking at them. I eventually lost half of the plants to the slime because I kept missing the part about using hydrogen peroxide. No hydro stores around where I live so I just bought the store 3% stuff. I dumped a quart in each res & sprayed off the roots. I won't forget all the lessons I learned from my experiences! I feel confident that I could try a single plant grow. I say single because if I space it or fuck it up I would only lose 1 plant. they are too expensive to waste, that's for sure. 
It's too easy to grow in a bubbler now that I have a good understanding of it.
Take the time & read the thread! just a couple of pages a day it is worth the time! It will save you time & money in the long run, unless of course your hard headed & forgetfull like me. Also read Al B's threads.


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## Matchbox (Jul 1, 2010)

fair play  I have read a shed load of stuff over the past couple of months and since I posted that I've been slowly trawling through this thread... very slowly mind you.

your not wrong though they are too expensive to fuck up, learning from doing is a good way of finding stuff out as well though, why im practicing with bag seed XD


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## Learning all the time (Jul 1, 2010)

I've read almost all of this thread, and almost every thread pertaining to the instances I have in my place. I really just want to know the benefits or disadvantages of different watering cycles. Right now I've got them on 15 on 15 off in strictly hydroton, about 14 days into flowering. They're 28" tall, ak48. I'm not really having problems with the plants per say, just tall humidity readings. Could I move that number in different directions and see benefits of lower humidity while continuing to feed my ladies correctly. Any viable input would be greatly appreciated. I know I've left out alot of details. I'm on a need to know basis, and this is all I need to know. When everything finished there will be a full journal. Thanks guys and gals.


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## Joker209 (Jul 4, 2010)

Learning all the time said:


> I've read almost all of this thread, and almost every thread pertaining to the instances I have in my place. I really just want to know the benefits or disadvantages of different watering cycles. Right now I've got them on 15 on 15 off in strictly hydroton, about 14 days into flowering. They're 28" tall, ak48. I'm not really having problems with the plants per say, just tall humidity readings. Could I move that number in different directions and see benefits of lower humidity while continuing to feed my ladies correctly. Any viable input would be greatly appreciated. I know I've left out alot of details. I'm on a need to know basis, and this is all I need to know. When everything finished there will be a full journal. Thanks guys and gals.


That's funny I just answered a question very similar to that. Maybe it could help. If not you can contact me any time 



IrishNig420 said:


> No prob at all thanks for even takin time to help me out. Thats what i had thought the day i posted my first post on this thread i just lifted the lights up just to lift up a lil and i went back to my grow see and it seems they've stopped yellowing at least for now so thanks on that one. Becuz i think the orverall temp of the grow room is ok 80f. and there is a constant flow of intake and exhaust with the intake at the bottom blowing right next the plants. I plan on getting a ac/dehumidifier since by the time i get to flowering I will have 3000 wats of light going but as far as vegging go for right now 1000 will be enough. the hydro feed schedule is 3 times a day 8 hour intervals 2 intervals feed them for 30 mins and 1 for 15 min. no special technique in coming up with the feeding sched but since i got those clones lookin like mini bonsai trees in a cup they have really exploded since i put them in there so the schedule isnt bad but if anyone has any suggestions like add an extra interval or cut the feeding time from 30 to 15 mins i am all open but would like a lil explainin on why. As far as the o2 goes i have an air pump with an bar airstone that i have not put in yet. also i'm not to sure but will cutting time time from 30 to 15 mins help at all. yea there gettin less nutes in water but i heard that they didn't need to be saturated for that long. Anyway I really appreciate the help and would appreciate any other help with any other probs i may have. Once again greatly appereciated and thanks.


 Actually I know you've heard the terms of "Dialing it in" correct? This actually refers to what you're asking about the on off schedules. Best way to test is run it for half a day with different intervals until the plant looks like it's growing it's best and keep it right where it's at for a while until the plant want's more. Dial it in  Good luck man keep us updated

Source: https://www.rollitup.org/newbie-central/320357-if-i-dont-know-answer-17.html#post4357220


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## Joker209 (Jul 6, 2010)

Not trying to spam your thread or anything but I just started my second grow journal but changed my original plot to an outdoor grow instead. Might get interesting but you'll see when you get ya ass over there 
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/317709-jokers-second-journal-2.html

Just thought you might want to go sub


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## VERMIN (Jul 6, 2010)

Im looking for a cheap diy chiller for my res to prevent root rot? any help


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## Joker209 (Jul 6, 2010)

VERMIN said:


> Im looking for a cheap diy chiller for my res to prevent root rot? any help


 Frozen 2Liter bottle of water.


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## Whacko (Jul 14, 2010)

Hi I am on my first proper grow where I am trying to do everything by the book. I only recently joined this site and I'm glad I have because its a very useful site (Y) . I am only 2 days away from harvest atm and haven't made a journal but i will on my next crop.

I have many questions to ask but I won't ask um all now. Q1. How often would you change the water in a flood and drain system for the flushing stage (I'm flushing for 12 days by the way). Q2. is there anything wrong with putting different strains in the system as they all feed off of the same water (do different strains need different nutes). Q3. If 1 plant has not fully matured yet but all the others have (Remembering they are all in the same system) Can I flush for the time I have to and then put nutes back in after the flush and harvest of the rest of the plants. So i can keep the other plant till its ready or should i just chop um all at the same time.

I take it no1 wants to answer my questions hummm quite disappointed


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## dannyboyrasta (Jul 16, 2010)

Wat up potroast, I am new to using forums so I dont really now the ins and outs of using a forum. But Im building an 18 gallon six site rubbermaid hydro-set up I just dont know what to go with Bubbleponic method vs. aeroponic, If I use Bubbleponics will the tub wilt due to the water weight? my net cups are two inch. If I use areo setup I just dont want water to spray out of the container. But its my first attept. I have PVC pipe, and 6in long air stones I just need help deciding.


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## CommoradeBudds (Jul 16, 2010)

First Time. Advice on when and which nuitrents to add (timing- looking for example).


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## TommyTrouble77 (Jul 17, 2010)

I have a supercloset superflower hydro box.i am 6 weeks 5 days into bud and one of my plans leaves went completely yellow in 24hrs.why ?and what do i do to save?only one plant is doing this.I change every week,and am using general hydroponics Maxi grow.and Ph everytime


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## fiverivers (Jul 20, 2010)

potroast said:


> All right! Hydroponics is what I know, and hydroponics is the way I grow!
> 
> This forum will be great, we can discuss anything hydro. No dirtbags here, We haul water!
> 
> ...


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## Joker209 (Jul 20, 2010)

fiverivers said:


> Cheers Potroast! Good to meet a fellow water hauler. I have 12 plants in one of those blue kiddie pools...running a aero/fog set up. how would you go about distributing the nutrient tea (in res)? And did I mention I'm doing a vert-setup with 2000w in a diy cooltubes. Im having trouble fully seeing it through in my head . Your experienced advice is always respected and appreciated. Thanks Potroast.



I can answer that in PR's absence. The best way to give nutrients is through your res when using a fogger. Be warned though that some organic nutrients will clog a fogger easily so make sure to keep an eye on your res, fogger, and your plants to make sure this doesn't happen. I like the idea of using a kiddie pool, I had never thought about doing that. I would like some pictures if possible because I will make a killer sog out of that idea


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## Mr. Cannabis 22 (Jul 29, 2010)

I change my res every week to a new strength of 3 part grow micro bloom flower stage, do you think this is too often or is it good to chang flower stages every week


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## snowlocks (Aug 1, 2010)

I'm looking for a complete grow system. Start to finish, one that is as undetectable as possible. Any suggestions? 

Thanks!


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## Tamorin (Aug 2, 2010)

I just built my grow room I have lights and the whol shazbang now got to decide on a system which woul be best andwhere should I look for your basic step by step for said system? Thanks alot I want to haul water.


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## WWShadow (Aug 6, 2010)

Everyone worries about res temps & unless you have a chiller then the frozen water bottle is your best freind. So here's the question:
Has anyone ever used water mixed with salt to bring temps down. I ask because I found that you can actually freeze beer in a cooler if salt is added to the ice. Since the bottles are sealed it should be ok, shouldn't it?


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## lulutheblack (Aug 11, 2010)

*NEED HELP PLEASE!!!*

Ok here is my scenario. I have 2 plants in a DWC bubbler set up and they both have stopped growing almost completely. They are still alive but are really shriveling up and very small and bushy. They are both feminized autoflowering bubblelicious from nirvana. They are 3 weeks old and only about 3 inches tall with lots of leaves. I am using fox farms trio as nutes. I have tried everything from lowering the nute ppm, changing the water, blah blah blah. I have tried everything, trust me. The last thing I was going to try and the last thing I can even think of is NOT using tap water. I have been using tap water, yes. I am assuming that maybe my tap water is no good for hydro. 

Anyway, I just changed the water out (AGAIN) this time using distilled water. I have the system running with ONLY ph'd distilled water and NO nutes at all, just water and bubbles. How long should I leave them before I start slowly adding nutes? If anyone could help me try to revive my plants I would REALLY REALLY appreciate it. I will take any help I can get at this point.

You can click my signature to get more details on the situation. 

Thanks!!!


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## BoomerBloomer57 (Aug 11, 2010)

WWShadow said:


> Everyone worries about res temps & unless you have a chiller then the frozen water bottle is your best freind. So here's the question:
> Has anyone ever used water mixed with salt to bring temps down. I ask because I found that you can actually freeze beer in a cooler if salt is added to the ice. Since the bottles are sealed it should be ok, shouldn't it?


When we Tuna fish we take what are called "kill bags". Huge insulated bags with handles and a zipper.

We'll fill the kill bag with 60 to 100 pounds of ice and then add water softener salt. 

It makes a frozen sludge that lasts for days. 60 to 110 pound tunas stay Icy all the way back in 
and home for steaking. Different salts give different results.

But I have had bottles go bad in the res and leak. Plants don't mind r/o but loaded
with salt? That's Death at the door with Uncle Murphy as his side kick.
And we all know how Uncle Murph is,,,,,,,

I'll post a pic of the Pelagic Bag, just have to dig one out of the boat.
They work like magic and have a drain plug.

And I have a chest freezer just for frozen bottles and frozen trimmings so
I always have plenty on hand.

bb57
bb57


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## decaad (Aug 16, 2010)

I was wondering weather to start running transition nutes just before switching to 12 12 or just after? I am using general hydro advanced nutes.


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## decaad (Aug 16, 2010)

Mr Cannabis I am using the same nutes as you and I am by no means an expert but that seems too fast. If you are looking at the chart you have transition bloom heavy bloom and ripen. If you change every week you will be in ripen just when your girls will be looking to really pack on the weight. watch your plant and when its flowering heavily feed accordingly. be alert for cla mag defeciancy with flowering plants when using gh and ro water.


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## BoomerBloomer57 (Aug 16, 2010)

snowlocks said:


> I'm looking for a complete grow system. Start to finish, one that is as undetectable as possible. Any suggestions?
> 
> Thanks!



Ours? How much ya got?


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## jennifer18 (Aug 22, 2010)

Dr. Greenthumb said:


> How often do you have to flush the water in a hydro system?


 In Terms Of Quality Would You Say Waters The Way


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## allybam (Aug 24, 2010)

Ok here we go ive posted this elsewere but think it was in wrong place so ill do it here is there any benifit from growing in an 80 litre 3 n 1/2 foot deep bin compared to growing in a smaller bucket say 1 foot deep 20 litres or would the roots only grow down so far anyway googled the hell outa this 1 n couldnt find much info on it at all peace 

Plz some1 is deeper buckets better than shallow buckets this is driving me mad i cant find no info or posts anywhere 


Guess itll be an experiment for me then but i reakon x2 400hps x1 80 litre 3 n 1/2 foot deep bin 60 lp/m air pump and a fish pond air diffuser will evolve my next plant into a tree  fingers crossed give me 6 months and ill let ya'll no how it went but in mean time if anyone has any knowledge on this it would be great!


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## mkbombadil (Aug 28, 2010)

I have used GH since the beginning of time.

What nutrients are best for blooming "Blue Dream" ? (trays/rockwool/HPS lites)


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## mkbombadil (Aug 28, 2010)

bigger pots = bigger "potential yield" per plant and also means longer veg

Most hydro setups require mo more than 6-8 inches of medium depth for roots.
You should be able to complete an indoor hydro gro in 10-12 weeks max


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## editdesoja (Sep 4, 2010)

Yes right I think so water is better and hydroponics for horticultural crops and forage crops can be grown in India. We offer a list of hydroponic cultivation can be practiced. variety of crops can be grown using hydroponics soil-less culture.


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## Groucho123456 (Sep 8, 2010)

I live where it is impossible to buy hydroponic supplies but agricultural chemicals for large scale farming are available. In soil, indoors and outdoors, I have been using Nitrofoska Foliar 10-4-7 and Cuneb Forte 0-49-37 (amazing stuff!). For hydroponic growing can I buy these kinds of fertilizers, figure out how much to dilute them, and use them as my nutrients? I wonder if some of the strong fertilizers available here are based on chemicals that would make them not suitable of hydro.


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## lovetogarden (Sep 14, 2010)

I love the method of hydroponics because even if you are a novice grower, it is very possible to produce the finest crops. I am also thrilled to know that growing melons are possible with it


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## cgrizzle3 (Sep 29, 2010)

Ok, so ive asked in different forums, maybe this will be the one to answer my question. Im growing with a ebb and flow table, and i was wondering, when i topt he res off every two days, do i fill up with nutrient water solution, or just water. Please let me know, id really appreciate it. THANKS


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## Staycool (Oct 4, 2010)

Where to get best quality and price aeroponic/hydroponic systems? 

Thanks. - Staycool


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## WWShadow (Oct 4, 2010)

cgrizzle3 said:


> Ok, so ive asked in different forums, maybe this will be the one to answer my question. Im growing with a ebb and flow table, and i was wondering, when i topt he res off every two days, do i fill up with nutrient water solution, or just water. Please let me know, id really appreciate it. THANKS


that is most likely going to vary from time to time you'll need to check the ppm's to know if you need to add nutes or just water. ppm's high top off with water/ low add nutes to bring ppm up to desired level. I have heard that you can go by ph level also but I haven't tried it yet. I am just letting you know what i have learned by reading different threads.


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## WWShadow (Oct 4, 2010)

Staycool said:


> Where to get best quality and price aeroponic/hydroponic systems?
> 
> Thanks. - Staycool


Most of the thread I have read everyone DIY's it. Best bet google hydroponic systems check some sites & then check e-bay & see if you can find it cheaper. But, if you have a knack for doing it yourself you can save enough money on building the system to add all the accessories you need & maybe still have some cash left over. Most savings will depend on the system you attempt to duplicate. An Aeroflow2 60 site system is nearly a grand. You can build it for around $400.00 or less depending on actual parts costs.


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## spartinniffer (Oct 7, 2010)

Hey wassup everybody i have 600w balast and bulb as well im using hydroponics to grow my MJ..but im not sure if im using the right nutrients im using mirical grow somebody told me that was cool but im reading that pple only use that for soil...now the plants are sprouting real nice there out there seeds an have show of roots and 2 lil leaves and nice and green will the nutrients that im using cause a problem for the plants plzz help..​


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## spartinniffer (Oct 7, 2010)

Hey wassup i have 600w balast and bulb as well im using hydroponics to grow my MJ..but im not sure if im using the right nutrients im using mirical grow somebody told me that was cool but im reading that pple only use that for soil...now the plants are sprouting real nice there out there seeds an have show of roots and 2 lil leaves and nice and green will the nutrients that im using cause a problem for the plants plzz help..​


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## WWShadow (Oct 7, 2010)

spartinniffer said:


> Hey wassup i have 600w balast and bulb as well im using hydroponics to grow my MJ..but im not sure if im using the right nutrients im using mirical grow somebody told me that was cool but im reading that pple only use that for soil...now the plants are sprouting real nice there out there seeds an have show of roots and 2 lil leaves and nice and green will the nutrients that im using cause a problem for the plants plzz help..​


Miracle grow will work but you have to suplement calcium & magnesium


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## spartinniffer (Oct 8, 2010)

how do i suplement calcium and magnesium and how much??


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## WWShadow (Oct 8, 2010)

for Mag you can use epsom salts I don't know about calcium however. you could use Cal-Mag or I think Dyna-grow pro foliage will also help with cal-mag. Again this is only going by what I have read on the forums. HomeBrewer may be able to help you out he is doing a comparison grow between dyna-gro & GH nutes (flowering phase only) 
Joker420 would know but I haven't seen him post in quite a while. Potroast is the man that started this thread you might try & hit him up. I haven't seen him around in a while either though.


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## spartinniffer (Oct 8, 2010)

danm i jus tested my water and found my ph lvl to be around the high 8.8 or higher and my amonia is very toxic as well i think i used to many of the hydro rocks i was jus realising there was alot of brown mixture in my water...i changed my water complety after finding out these results and im not using rockwool cubes i jus put them in with the hydro rocks is that a problem??? ​


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## WWShadow (Oct 8, 2010)

no problem, You don't have to use rockwool, but if you're starting from seed you need something to put the seed in like rockwoo, sure to grow, even regular peat pellets. I've tried peat pellets & rapid rooters on my veggie experiments both work well. I'm not using any more hydroton other than to hold the plant upright in the netpot. I diy'd some root guards out of a sleeping mat from wal-mart in the camping section $5.00. I may just start waiting until the plants are tall enough to fit into the rootguards & leave the hydroton out completely. One less expense lol. 
the brown could be from the hydroton. I rinsed my a couple of times & soaked for 2 days & it's all in a storage tub since I packed everything up. looked at it the other day to make sure there wasn't any moisture & ist's all super dusty again. Sure to grow makes a ph neutral loose fill. You might look in to that. they also have starter cubes similar to rockwool, rapid rooters etc & All the sure to grow stuff is ph neutral. I have read both good & bad things about it. it's fairly knew so I expect most of the bad reviews are from people trying to treat it the same as rockwool or something. IDK, I plan on trying it next year for a diy NFT system from pvc so i'll see how it goes.


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## spartinniffer (Oct 8, 2010)

hey wwshadow thx for the info..my 3 lil gurls 2 first of leaves are starting to curl in for some reason can it be the high lvl of ph in the water or amonia the amonia lvl was very toxic??


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## WWShadow (Oct 8, 2010)

I know if your ph is too high or too low you begin to get nutrient lockout. Once you get the ph back in line you should begin to see some recovery. It might take a couple of days depending on how much damage has been done. Your best bet is to ask in the sick plant thread. A lot of growers look through there more often than other threads. I just a noob that has been doing a lot of reading on the forums. check out Riddleme's threads: https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/347914-balls-wall-grow-riddleme-gets.html
that is his current grow he is using soiles mix this round but usually does soil. You can learn a lot from reading his threads (yeah, all of them, lol). I don't know where all the hydro gurus or veterans growers if you prefer, lol. I'msure they are around somewhere


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## cgrizzle3 (Oct 8, 2010)

spartinniffer said:


> how do i suplement calcium and magnesium and how much??


do not use miracle grow, ewww....it literally makes your medicine tatse like PISS. And to supplement cal mag you buy, calMag plus, it comes in bottles. The bottle will also tell you how much. But from my experience, the only time you have to supplement cal mag is if you have a deficiency of calcium, or mag, or if you are using reverse osmosis, because that is what reverse osmosis takes out. What kind of water are you using?


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## spartinniffer (Oct 9, 2010)

cgrizzle3 said:


> do not use miracle grow, ewww....it literally makes your medicine tatse like PISS. And to supplement cal mag you buy, calMag plus, it comes in bottles. The bottle will also tell you how much. But from my experience, the only time you have to supplement cal mag is if you have a deficiency of calcium, or mag, or if you are using reverse osmosis, because that is what reverse osmosis takes out. What kind of water are you using?


im usin tap water which i recently found out has a normal ph lvl of 8.2 which is stupid high so imputting in some ph down to get at about 6.2 then puttin my plants in it cause they have been curling at the tips..also the amonia lvl was really high to so im putting in some amo lock to drop it regular lvls.. i bilieve that will do the trick and i bougt some nutrients called pure blen pro grow vegetative formula 3-2-4..


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## Cody Box (Oct 9, 2010)

Three week old Autoflowering Delicious Diavolo plants in hydro. Under a 28W LED. Any idea when i should be seeing flowering?


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## WWShadow (Oct 9, 2010)

cgrizzle3 said:


> do not use miracle grow, ewww....it literally makes your medicine tatse like PISS. And to supplement cal mag you buy, calMag plus, it comes in bottles. The bottle will also tell you how much. But from my experience, the only time you have to supplement cal mag is if you have a deficiency of calcium, or mag, or if you are using reverse osmosis, because that is what reverse osmosis takes out. What kind of water are you using?


ROFLMAO, All I said is it would work for growing, sort of, no one asked how the end product would be. My city water by itself doesn't supply quite enough cal or mag so I would be supplementing anyway using mg or jack's classic. anyway it's all good. a good RO system will remove virtually everything leaving you with just h2o @ 000ppm or pretty dog gone close. on my list of things to get as our city water has stuff in it that I would rather remove anyway.

happy growing


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## green73 (Oct 26, 2010)

what is the best way to cut down algae buildup ???im using dark containers and my jets r still cloggin in days ????


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## green73 (Oct 26, 2010)

might it just b the nutes??i use b.c products


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## onebadSandman (Oct 26, 2010)

Speaking of systems, can i start a new topic, i need sum help with recirculating pumps. any one have experience running a pump to push water through a 1/8" tubing, split into three spray nozzles. mine ,tried two so far, either have to much flow,GPH, or like the one iam using now seems to be SLOWING down or reducing the ammount of spray,from a bio film or whatever?? i guess i was wanting to see if there is another pump manufacture that might specalize in pumps that are designed for hydroponic setups or emersion in acidic solutions. I have been using aquarium pond pumps. Little Giant/Taam/Mag Drive pumps are the ones i am fimillar with.


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## themoose (Nov 10, 2010)

To throw a little advice your way Sandman, it sound's like your pump doesn't have ENOUGH mustard to get the job done, I would suggest considering exactly:

1)How much H20 your reservoir is holding

2)How much your system is holding when its flooded(how much less is in your reservoir)

3)how far your reservoir is from your system
I.E.-from the very bottom of your reservoir to that three point nozzle

and your should be able to roughly gauge how powerful of a pump you need, matter of fact you can call any good supply shop you find online and specifically ask them which pump to get based on those numbers.

just a few:

-http://www.ecogrow.com/

-http://www.bghydro.com/BGH/items.asp?Cc=WP&iTpStatus=0&Tp=&Bc=

Even,
-http://www.amazon.com/EcoPlus-Submersible-Water-Hydroponic-Pump/dp/B0013KGO1A

As far as pumps go, a pump is a pump. buy it from the pet store or some crazy hydro store, If the pump is rated at a certain GPH doesn't matter where it came from.

hope this helps....

-moose


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## DankStudent101 (Nov 11, 2010)

So can someone inform me on how to build a system out of tupperware??


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## themoose (Nov 11, 2010)

DankStudent101 said:


> So can someone inform me on how to build a system out of tupperware??


 go on youtube dude..... There are a lot of other resources then 1 growing forum


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## RRLBT420 (Nov 14, 2010)

green73 said:


> might it just b the nutes??i use b.c products


B.C. as in botanicare? well, i do use their line, and i used to have a brown algae problem. it can be solved a couple ways.

1. block light from any surface that contacts nutrient solution. this includes using black or other light-proof reservoirs, black tubing, etc... if you grow in DWC buckets, the light can easily leak through the hydroton and grow algae. if this is your case, cut 1'x1' square of B&W film, cut a slit from the center of the square to the edge to go around the stem. you can tape it if it falls off easily, but i haven't experienced this.

2. add beneficial bacteria. as stupid as this sounds for hydro, certain bacteria and enzymes will eat the algae, along with dead roots and plants material. the added benefit of beneficial bacteria is that while they are present in the reservoir, they prevent pathogenic bacteria and fungus from forming by competing with them for food. avoid using Mycorrhizae in hydro systems, as they are ineffective.

3. use hydrogen peroxide. it's a common practice to add H2O2 to your reservoir every couple of days to maintain a sterile reservoir. this will kill everything in the reservoir, except the plant. this is my least recommended method, as it will also kill any beneficial bacteria in the res which can invite diseases. i do not personally use peroxide in my system, so i cannot advise the concentration, but there are many threads that do. search "h2o2"

hope this helps


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## Smokeyjoe419 (Nov 19, 2010)

Anyone ever use dr. Greenthumb? Expensive, but tempting..


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## Smokeyjoe419 (Nov 19, 2010)

How do you clean hydrotone, can see salt buildup from last grow.thinking about going to coco, not sure, may do a side by side


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## doniawon (Nov 19, 2010)

Smokeyjoe419 said:


> How do you clean hydrotone, can see salt buildup from last grow.thinking about going to coco, not sure, may do a side by side


clean with a 10% bleach solution and rinse extremly well. as for the salts try leaching with clearex or floracleen every once in awhile.


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## Kobalt (Nov 22, 2010)

holy cow I finally got to the end!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 

I've been reading this thread for a few days now ever since I realized that I needed to read before asking questions. 

I can honestly say that I now know 300% more about hydro than I did before I started reading. I can't wait for the current grow to finish so I can go hydro.


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## doniawon (Nov 22, 2010)

Kobalt said:


> holy cow I finally got to the end!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> I've been reading this thread for a few days now ever since I realized that I needed to read before asking questions.
> 
> I can honestly say that I now know 300% more about hydro than I did before I started reading. I can't wait for the current grow to finish so I can go hydro.


clappin smilly face..


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## grFarmer (Nov 26, 2010)

Hello to the forum!!
Im interested of growing some super lemon haze in a hydroponic tank..Its the secont time that im growing but the first on hydro.
I have some basic questions that i ll post to this thread from time to time.
The first question is ,do i have to change the water of the tank every some days?
I ll really appriciate an answer or a link to a hydro guide..Thanks...


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## Kobalt (Nov 27, 2010)

grFarmer said:


> Hello to the forum!!
> I ll really appriciate an answer or a link to a hydro guide..Thanks...


Really? You just posted on a thread that has already answered a bazillion questions. Maybe just read this thread from the beginning as a hydro guide.


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## phxfire (Nov 28, 2010)

*Looking for expert advice....*
BLOOM ROOM - room is only used for last 8 weeks

Have a 36 plant setup (Ebb&Gro)
Light cycle 12/12
4 - 600Watt HPS lights
1 light per 9 plants
total sq ft of room is 144 (12' x 12' room)

*My question...*
Does four 600W HPS lights have what it takes for a successful grow in the space and number of plants I have???


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## phxfire (Nov 28, 2010)

Alot of TALK.... NO HELP... I think a greater precentage of the people on this forum are NON-Expert growers to NEVER grown a plant growers... Just have been reading all the posts and comments and alot of what has been said I figure out the first time I planted a seed... My point is TRY TO GROW THEN HAVE QUESTIONS.... Not have questions and hope to grow... Growing is a Hobby that you MUST be devoted to... It is like an experiment to me... LEARN FROM MISTAKES... Alot of problems can be figured by elimanating the variables the would cause the problem and BAMMM you have your answer... JUST SAYING...


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## phxfire (Nov 28, 2010)

spartinniffer said:


> im usin tap water which i recently found out has a normal ph lvl of 8.2 which is stupid high so imputting in some ph down to get at about 6.2 then puttin my plants in it cause they have been curling at the tips..also the amonia lvl was really high to so im putting in some amo lock to drop it regular lvls.. i bilieve that will do the trick and i bougt some nutrients called pure blen pro grow vegetative formula 3-2-4..


IF you use tap water this will help ALOT...

Leave water in a container without a lid on it for about 2 days... Most of your problems will go away... **IT IS THE CLORINE IN THE WATER YOU NEED TO GET RID OF....


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## djfloms (Nov 28, 2010)

sure... but what is your definition of successful? mine would be that each plant has a min. of 1 oz per plant. low number, but who cares if it's for personal. 
Questions for you:
How far apart are your plants?
What is the strain(s)?
What's the height of your plants?
Any pics?
Have you grown before?
is your room ventilated?
How often do you change your rez?
These are questions you should try and answer. I think though, if this is your first grow, you can use it's final yield as a baseline per say. I also know that any answer given from anyone, will be an educated guess. Lets face it we don't grow for you so we can't tell you how much you can expect.
Hopefully that helps.


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## grFarmer (Nov 28, 2010)

Kobalt said:


> Really? You just posted on a thread that has already answered a bazillion questions. Maybe just read this thread from the beginning as a hydro guide.


it would be more helpfull if u give me an answer or a link..i.but with 27 posts i think u dont have a clue either..
Is there anyone more responsible person to give an answer??


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## phxfire (Nov 28, 2010)

grFarmer said:


> it would be more helpfull if u give me an answer or a link..i.but with 27 posts i think u dont have a clue either..
> Is there anyone more responsible person to give an answer??


SOO MY ABLILITY TO GROW IS BASED OFF OF HOW MANY POSTS I HAVE MADE ON THIS FORUM.... THATS A JOKE... I CAME TO THIS FORUM TO GET HELP... QUESTION IS AIMED TO grFarmer ONLY........


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## phxfire (Nov 28, 2010)

djfloms said:


> sure... but what is your definition of successful? mine would be that each plant has a min. of 1 oz per plant. low number, but who cares if it's for personal.
> Questions for you:
> How far apart are your plants?
> What is the strain(s)?
> ...


A little more info...

4 sq ft per plant in 5 gallon buckets
Strain - Grand Daddy Purps
Couple past grows
Well sealed and vented room
Change water ever 7 days
Switched to 12/12 (harvest) at 18 inches tall

MY MAIN QUESTION.....
16.66 watts per square feet or 66.64 watts per plant... IS THIS ENOUGH LIGHT FOR A GOOD TO GREAT YEILD???

THANKS


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## cgrizzle3 (Nov 28, 2010)

Yea but your just a little bitch naysaying motherfucker. Why would anyone help you?


phxfire said:


> A little more info...
> 
> 4 sq ft per plant in 5 gallon buckets
> Strain - Grand Daddy Purps
> ...


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## phxfire (Nov 28, 2010)

cgrizzle3 said:


> Yea but your just a little bitch naysaying motherfucker. Why would anyone help you?


DUDE FUCK OFF... AT LEAST I AM NOT A LIAR........ cgrizzly3 can GROW one plant to have 28oz at 3-4 foot tall.... YOU WET JOKE!


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## cgrizzle3 (Nov 28, 2010)

this dude is mad cause he gets a half ounce a plant. Hes a piece of wrok let me tell ya. Anyone tuning in to your post should stray away, cause your nothing.


phxfire said:


> DUDE FUCK OFF... AT LEAST I AM NOT A LIAR........ cgrizzly3 can GROW one plant to have 28oz at 3-4 foot tall.... YOU WET JOKE!


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## phxfire (Nov 28, 2010)

cgrizzle3 said:


> this dude is mad cause he gets a half ounce a plant. Hes a piece of wrok let me tell ya. Anyone tuning in to your post should stray away, cause your nothing.


WHERE CAN I GET THIS STRAIN THAT GROWS ALMOST 2 POUNDS PER PLANT at 3-4ft TALL???? YOU WET JOKE... LET ME KNOW WHAT IT WEIGHS WHEN IT IS DRY... Oh please clip all the fan leaves and stems.... THEN WEIGH IT.... SHINANIGANS...


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## phxfire (Nov 28, 2010)

Does it grow on the ground??? That would be a heavy plant.... Shinanigans


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## cgrizzle3 (Nov 28, 2010)

all i can say is your truly stupid. Did you not look at the pics on the drying rack? do they look like they have leaves dumbass? sorry you dont know how to grow mr 20 posts.


phxfire said:


> WHERE CAN I GET THIS STRAIN THAT GROWS ALMOST 2 POUNDS PER PLANT at 3-4ft TALL???? YOU WET JOKE... LET ME KNOW WHAT IT WEIGHS WHEN IT IS DRY... Oh please clip all the fan leaves and stems.... THEN WEIGH IT.... SHINANIGANS...


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## phxfire (Nov 28, 2010)

cgrizzle3 said:


> all i can say is your truly stupid. Did you not look at the pics on the drying rack? do they look like they have leaves dumbass? sorry you dont know how to grow mr 20 posts.


 ONCE AGAIN YOU MEASURE ONES ABILITY TO GROW BECAUSE OF HOW MANY POSTS ONE HAS MADE ON THIS FORUM.... KID GROW UP.... YOU ARE LIVING IN YOUR PARENTS BASEMENT... JUST STOP... I DONT CARE... YOUR POST WAS A LIE... I DONT LIE... 28 oz off of one 3ft tall plant... IN-FUCKING-POSSIBLE  MR.28oz a plant


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## watts131313 (Dec 3, 2010)

you can get 28 oz off a plant that is only 3 to 4 feet tall, it just has to be one wide big mother fucker.....not sayin he's speaking the truth but it def is possible, just a long veg time and basically just growin max 5 plants or got a huge fuckin garage all for ur ladies. with min. 4 600s for flower and a t5 or two to veg the clones. i dont use metal halide cause it simply isnt needed when ur growin this way, cause this way you have a hundred tops to every plant. im not speakin from expierence sayin i get 28 oz off a plant. but i know it is possible. but u really gotta have apoint to prove to get it hahaheres a pic of my little shithole right now, im plannin on completley changin my setup after this harvest. i just relocated so this is a rooom that got put together in an hr. kinds are pineapple express, aurora indica, and raspberry cough.


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## RyaNayR (Dec 3, 2010)

I am using a drip system (aerogarden) to grow some seedlings that i germinated in soil... Do i need to be turning the pump off in cycles or running it 24/7? after leaving the pump off accidentally over night they suddenly grew a few new roots for the first time since being in the aerogarden... but until now none have grown new roots and now they have all grown new roots at once... also, i am using the Recipe for Success starter kit nutrients from Technaflora (makers of B.C Grow, B.C Bloom, etc) and have applied the recommended nutrients for the veg stage, but then quickly flushed that out and decided to just stick to the nutes recommended for the transplant stage, as instructed by the sheet in the kit, because i have removed them from soil and into water, thus that's a transplant. two of the sprouts are curling their leaves under like an m shape (first set of leaves after seed-leaves) but another is turning yellow...i have been using Root66 rooting mixture as part of the regimen recommended by the kit... as well as the SugarDaddy and ThriveAlive-B1 Green... 

I used 2 tsps of Root66, 2 tsps SugarDaddy, 1 Tsp ThriveAlive-B1 Green.. or actually a little bit less of each than that...


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## tdude (Dec 3, 2010)

I'm guessing this has been answered multiple times, but after lots of searching I still haven't found any conclusive answer.

I'm soon starting my first grow, and I'm thinking about setting up a 1m x 1m x 2m tent, containing two DWC's put under a ScrOG. I'm wondering what kind of lighting that would be suitable for such a setup. My plan so far is to use 2x 250W CFL (25.000 Kelvin). Would this work, and compared to other solutions how good?

The reason for using CFL is mostly cost, combined with less required know-how of more complex technical solutions. I know a HID wouldn't be too much work, but the ballast is a turn off.


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## doniawon (Dec 4, 2010)

cgrizzle3 said:


> all i can say is your truly stupid. Did you not look at the pics on the drying rack? do they look like they have leaves dumbass? sorry you dont know how to grow mr 20 posts.


cgrizzle your putting your 28 oz. plant on every thread. by now nobody gives a fuck. you had your own thread and that was cool, but this is too much. congrats on a 28 oz plant that was vegged forever and had 1.5 kw on it. your g/watt was still probably under .5 g per watt. so what do you want.. and what was your confirmed dry weight.. bet youll never tell.


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## teddiekgb123 (Dec 6, 2010)

tdude said:


> I'm guessing this has been answered multiple times, but after lots of searching I still haven't found any conclusive answer.
> 
> I'm soon starting my first grow, and I'm thinking about setting up a 1m x 1m x 2m tent, containing two DWC's put under a ScrOG. I'm wondering what kind of lighting that would be suitable for such a setup. My plan so far is to use 2x 250W CFL (25.000 Kelvin). Would this work, and compared to other solutions how good?
> 
> The reason for using CFL is mostly cost, combined with less required know-how of more complex technical solutions. I know a HID wouldn't be too much work, but the ballast is a turn off.


Sure it will work......but how well. I would get a 400w switchable light. You can't beat HID light intensity.


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## Vapeaway (Dec 18, 2010)

Hey Potroast, 
Quick question. First time growing in hydro, just finishing up the system and had a question about the water.

This is a copy of our water quality report. Does this look usable with a chlorine sit or would you recommend using a filter or RO system. Thanks


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## jasonam1987 (Dec 23, 2010)

my 6 gydro plants im growing stopped growing after 1 week of being transplanted for dirt as a seedling to the hydro system...on the other hand the other 4 plants i left in the dirt are still growing considerably bigger. Can the stunted growth be due to shock there has been no neg or pos effects from the transplant? im using 15 gallon tank with all florcare products.


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## jason1976 (Dec 23, 2010)

my set up is as follows. 1 5 gallon bucket , airstone 160 gph pump,8 micromister heads, 4 cfl 150 watt sunlight bulbs, soon to be 8. i have started using humbolt oneness, pretty easy stuff, i leave my misters and bubble stone on 24-7. any advice for me? like nutes should i use other nutes with oneness? i have a digital ph tester and buffering solutions, also general hydroponics up and down that i regulate ph with twice a day. i used rockwool in hydroton as medium. my seedlings now im usung new stuff as a medium. it white poly ...


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## j.p.s.w (Dec 29, 2010)

for hydro, how do you select a mother for cloning plants for about 2 months?


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## LetsGetLifted (Dec 31, 2010)

Hey guys first time hydro grower. I was just wondering what is the most efficient way to change out your water every week or so?


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## BoomerBloomer57 (Dec 31, 2010)

Easy fill and drain adaptors. Connect the hose and drain. Refill from the main res of 100 gallons
of mixed r/o and tap.

Super easy.


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## killacreepz (Jan 1, 2011)

my cf is going up from 4 to 6 by the next day?? ive got an nft system, its a small system like less than a foot long, i have 4 plants in their, and 3 r healthy but 1 isnt as healthy. iv tried everthing from washing out whole system with ph water incase of salt build up on spreader mat. ive thrown 40 litres of ph'd water over plants spreader mat and roots and system. ive even left it running with just water no nutes. i c that 3 of my plants r ok but 1 looks deficient with drying up lower leaves, but the top leaves r healthy on the unhealthy looking 1, im not sure if the roots are root bound, even though there are roots from the same plant growing down the tray and at the sides of the rockwool slab. ph goes up also daily to more alkaline and cf rises daily also. any suggestions thankyou.


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## talk2sampson (Jan 3, 2011)

completely new to hydro. what nutrients should i feed clones that are about a week old? i dont want to burn everything up or lock it up. any advice would be greatly appreciated!


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## doniawon (Jan 3, 2011)

talk2sampson said:


> completely new to hydro. what nutrients should i feed clones that are about a week old? i dont want to burn everything up or lock it up. any advice would be greatly appreciated!


none or 1/4 strength none if u see no roots. u hydro cloneing?


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## talk2sampson (Jan 4, 2011)

I am using a 24 site ebb n grow, all roots showing in rockwool before transfered. roots have taken im asuming its been a week since ive put them in there. Thanks for the fast response doni!


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## doniawon (Jan 4, 2011)

talk2sampson said:


> I am using a 24 site ebb n grow, all roots showing in rockwool before transfered. roots have taken im asuming its been a week since ive put them in there. Thanks for the fast response doni!


set your ppms to 800. . set your controller to water 3 times a day they may look weak for a day or so but everthing will work out.


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## Master Yoda420 (Jan 6, 2011)

Can anyone give me some advice ? It's my first hydro set-up...I've been flowering my Kush plant for 4 weeks and the buds look ready already(!!)...it's supposed to take 9 weeks according to Green House Seeds. Is it possible its much faster in hydro ??? Could they be ready...they are 50-80% red/orange trichcombs. 

Any advice?


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## ShoAL paTroL (Jan 9, 2011)

Master Yoda420 said:


> Can anyone give me some advice ? It's my first hydro set-up...I've been flowering my Kush plant for 4 weeks and the buds look ready already(!!)...it's supposed to take 9 weeks according to Green House Seeds. Is it possible its much faster in hydro ??? Could they be ready...they are 50-80% red/orange trichcombs.
> 
> Any advice?


 There not done.u gota let them go at least 4 1/2 more weeks. Don't forget to flush


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## Niko Bellick (Jan 18, 2011)

Question for all the hydro vets out there. this is going to be my fourth grow. I use a single unit top drip waterfarm and a six pot rubbermaid that has top drip/dwc (six pot) every grow I struggle with the same problem and that is how often to set my timers for feeding. I have alternated between Hydroton and nothing else except the root plug that I started the seed in and rockwool. It always seems like I am either over watering or underwatering and I would like to correct this problem for my next grow. Can anyone suggest a good media for my plants that I can use in conjunction with the hydroton which Ive always liked using? Wouldnt mind using rockwool again but I always have problems with green slime or white stuff growing on top of the cubes (im guessing from the lights hitting it and probably overwatering the rockwool) any help would be much appreciated.


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## GypsyBush (Jan 18, 2011)

If you are doing DWC, once the roots reach the water there is no need to top feed... *IF your roots are in the wate*r... just turn it off...


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## GypsyBush (Jan 18, 2011)

you can also cover you pots with white plastic... reflects light back to the plants and prevents algae... like these pots...

*







*


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## Niko Bellick (Jan 18, 2011)

GypsyBush said:


> If you are doing DWC, once the roots reach the water there is no need to top feed... *IF your roots are in the wate*r... just turn it off...


 Thanks was hoping youd respond lol. But as for until they reach the water what would be the best route to go? should I start in rapid rooter plugs then transfer to hydroton in the net pots? if so how often do you recommend having the drip come on? If I germ in rockwool in my heated humidity dome (just thought id add that info in there) then put in net pots with hydroton how often should I drip?


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## Niko Bellick (Jan 18, 2011)

Oops didnt see that before i replied. Panda film right?


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## Niko Bellick (Jan 18, 2011)

GypsyBush said:


> If you are doing DWC, once the roots reach the water there is no need to top feed... *IF your roots are in the wate*r... just turn it off...


 also in a ten gal res do you think that two 14 inch bubble bars is enough?


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## GypsyBush (Jan 18, 2011)

Yes panda film...

There is no sense in transplanting the RW (RockWool) into the Hydroton until you see roots...

Then, make sure the RW stays DAMP, never soaked, and adjust your Drip System away from the RW.. so that you can water the Hydroton, without getting the RW soaked...

Wet RW is a HUGE problem and should never ever be wet... only damp...

Clone and cube (what I did) should weigh in between 25 ~ 40 grams... 

If you can't keep from soaking it, I would recommend the Rapid Root plugs, but they can't be soaked all the time either...


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## GypsyBush (Jan 18, 2011)

Niko Bellick said:


> also in a ten gal res do you think that two 14 inch bubble bars is enough?


Should be if you have an appropriate pump... 
and remember... the bigger the res... the more stable it is...


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## Niko Bellick (Jan 18, 2011)

GypsyBush said:


> Yes panda film...
> 
> There is no sense in transplanting the RW (RockWool) into the Hydroton until you see roots...
> 
> ...


Thank you, I think I will go with the rapid root plugs and just lengthen the hose on the drip to go a few inches into the hydroton so it sits by the roots when it waters.


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## Niko Bellick (Jan 19, 2011)

GypsyBush said:


> Should be if you have an appropriate pump...
> and remember... the bigger the res... the more stable it is...


 I'll make sure It's an appropriate pump. Thanks for the help bro hopefully I'm done with the majority of the trial and error for this next grow.


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## irish farmer (Jan 19, 2011)

I have a prob with a hydro sysyem. there is all these little white guys swimming around my res. I'm using canna nutes any advice would be great.


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## GypsyBush (Jan 19, 2011)

Clean and sterilize it ASAP!!!


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## GypsyBush (Jan 19, 2011)

and you can always make sure to use NON-organic nutes and H2O2... the best way to keep everything at bay....


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## irish farmer (Jan 20, 2011)

Thank you Gypsybush, any idea what they may be called?


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## GypsyBush (Jan 20, 2011)

Not Pot..!!! lol....
I have no idea bro...!!! gotta pic?


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## smokie927 (Jan 20, 2011)

dcyans said:


> Depends on the system bro I've done plenty of no flush grows and believe me I was dead against it for a long time until I started using Lucas's formula and recommended addbacks. you would think of course that some of the element salts would build up to toxic levels but it really doesn't come into play as you would thing when you properly manage your nutrient solutions. I will still recommend especially for beginners res changes every two weeks but not before that is only wasting nutrients as well as adding extra waste to the environment.


Flushing is a benefit used to excrete the waste of toxic salts and extra nutrients, which in turn will help your plant(s),you might not think your plants have a lot of salt buildup until after you flush, you realize how much they had based on how much better your plants flourish. It is a good idea to flush your hydro system every two weeks and add new water, no exceptions,your plants will appreciate it. Another thing is the salts and nutrients we get out of the environment like; zinc,copper,iron,potassium,mag.,sulfer.potash,nitrogen, etc. None of these elements are harmfull to the environment,where do you think we got them from? So don't think by dumping your unecessary nutrients and salts outside you are harming the environment at all. Oregon, the ChRonIc StAte.


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## smokie927 (Jan 20, 2011)

irish farmer said:


> I have a prob with a hydro sysyem. there is all these little white guys swimming around my res. I'm using canna nutes any advice would be great.


If I remember right its been a while since I had them,they are called aphids, and what they do is attach to your root system slowing and eventually stopping nutrient absorbtion. Go to your local hydro shop and ask them about it,they should have something to treat aphids. They multiply rapidly so you should get on it right away.


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## irish farmer (Jan 22, 2011)

Thank's everyone, I dont have a pic I'l try get 1 later.


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## GezDon121 (Jan 29, 2011)

I have a pretty decent hydro set up at the mo. Plants 5 weeks old and already 30'' high and over two feet wide. By the look of it, I'm hoping to see 10-15 ounce. I would suggest hydro to start off as it requires alot less effort than soil. If flushed properly, hydro can be just as tasty as soil grown. 
It's the store of nutrients in the plant that gives hydro it's bad name for taste, but flushing makes the plant use it's back log of nutrients and or root stimulant. Clean fresh pure taste of bud. mmmmmmmmmmmm.


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## themoose (Jan 31, 2011)

How do i decide how much water i should have in my rez?? I understand the larger the more stable but then the more nutes i'm using, so do I just find a happy medium?

Also when I add mycorrhizae to my rez's is that one of the first things that goes into the rez?

right now I have Canna Nutes, superthrive(when needed) and mycorrhizae, between that and h202 solution what else will I really need nutrient wise for supporting a healthy ebb & flow rez environment?

PPM/EC levels- Is it absolutely necessary to buy an EC meter or can I get away with watching my PH?

Thats a shit ton of Q's so if anyone can answer any of those that would be fantastic!

Thanks!


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## doniawon (Jan 31, 2011)

themoose said:


> How do i decide how much water i should have in my rez?? I understand the larger the more stable but then the more nutes i'm using, so do I just find a happy medium?
> 
> Also when I add mycorrhizae to my rez's is that one of the first things that goes into the rez?
> 
> ...


You should be topping off your res about every 5 to 7 days imo but im sure that will be debated. Also every 5-7 days you should add your H202. When using h202 there is no need for any bacterial growth so cut out the mycorrhizae. Also i would drop the superthrive but thats just an opinion, maybe try a bloom booster like pk 13/14 in week 5 through harvest. also silica and mag cal when needed. EC meter is a must.


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## fredt (Feb 2, 2011)

My last attempt would have been way better if it were not for the mushy roots, obviously I made serious errors. So i have questions. I'm using 2x2 ebb and flow under 600w hps. With small [6"] plants in 6" cubes how often to flood, how deep and for how long? When the plants are much bigger, say 18'', same questions.Its posted here that RW should be damp not wet but if I run the pump once a day it seems to stay wet to me?


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## the real G (Feb 3, 2011)

i just wondering how often ishould changs my res i using a recurculating system if that makes any differance,cheers guys G


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## fredt (Feb 3, 2011)

After reading lots of posts I think the mushy roots are because my heater was blowing on the res so i need to raise it. My local hydro shop tells me says I should, with the small plants,once a day flood a third of the cube and immediately turn off the pump. With the larger plants let the cubes flood to the same depth then let the pump run for 5 minutes--also once a day. Sound right?


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## Rick Ratlin (Feb 4, 2011)

Doesany body use GH liquid kool bloom and GH powder kool bloom together? I like them, only 5 mL Liquid Kool Bloom per gallon and .8 grams powder kool bloom per gallon. Used with 3 part GH nutes, thinking of upping my ratio to 4-8-16 to account for N def in lucas formula. Any thoughts, warnings, etc.


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## TardyMarty421 (Feb 4, 2011)

BoomerBloomer57 said:


> Easy fill and drain adaptors. Connect the hose and drain. Refill from the main res of 100 gallons
> of mixed r/o and tap.
> 
> Super easy.


Do you have any more pics of this cycle?
Did you do a sea of green?


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## tokenjoker78 (Feb 7, 2011)

go post your spam somewhere else like the seed bank reviews


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## JoSixChip (Feb 13, 2011)

*As anyone tried a complete grow with Lucas Formula using only Maxibloom dry? Pardon me if this question has already been answered, I'm only on page 68 of this tread.
*



*Lucas Formula using General Hydroponics Dry Nutrients (Maxibloom)*

MaxiBloom and MaxiGro are dry nutrient also from General Hydroponics. It turns out, Maxibloom, used in a ratio of 7 grams per gallon of water*, is very close to the original Lucas Formula (above.) You do not need MaxiGro, and so this is the cheapest and easiest recipe to use. 
Add 7 grams of Maxibloom into 1 gallon of water*, and then adjust the pH, and stir vigorously to dissolve the Maxibloom in the water. I advise putting the 7g of Maxibloom into a cup of warm water, dissolving it, and then adding it to the remaining gallon of water, before pH adjusting and mixing again.


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## first be (Feb 16, 2011)

My local hydro shop tells me says I should, with the small plants,once a day flood a third of the cube and immediately turn off the pump. With the larger plants let the cubes flood to the same depth then let the pump run for 5 minutes--also once a day.


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## NoDa21 (Feb 17, 2011)

having trouble figuring out how much nutrients to put in my 10 gal reservoir. I have the C.A.P 8 site aeroponic system and I use Aqua Flakes A & B made by Van De Zwaan. Can anybody help?


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## david hein (Feb 27, 2011)

i got five plant in one 40 gal tote with a drip system(i have 3 like totes 15 plants total)is this a wise thing to do.It is basicly a hydrofarm bucket you can buy,but large with 5 plants.im having problems will post pics later today


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## Ghettoman (Mar 3, 2011)

I have the fog going with airstone, gonna see how things turn out hope its all good.


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## JimmyB (Mar 5, 2011)

Someone have experiences whit waterfarm?? 

Peace Jimmy


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## PetFlora (Mar 18, 2011)

Most of the questions I see here are due to using grow methods that will cause various problems unless you are well versed in the particular method. If interested visit my thread *HPA Without an Accumulator. *Bypass the spirited debate on whether it is High Pressure. The point is this system simplifies growing and eliminates tons of issues inherent in all other hydro methods.


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## HisGirl420 (Mar 19, 2011)

I need some help with my hydro questions but none of my threads are getting replies so if you could either check them out or PM me and I'd be happy to tell you my questions. I promise it's not a lot.


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## 0011StealTH (Mar 20, 2011)

Hydro is not as hard as it looks or sounds but before you jump on it just know that hydro if not growing period. Takes a lot a lot of your time
Just that hydro can't have as much fuckups as in soil
So as long as you have time for hydro go for it
I doubt its for you if your one. Of those guys that only walk in there grow room not often

So in cloncusion hydro takes time but if done right it will be a easyride and enjoyment.

(Keepgrowing)


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## dutch99master (Mar 20, 2011)

My rockwool cubes and they are startin to turn green at the top why is that ?


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## HisGirl420 (Mar 20, 2011)

I'm in my grow room so much. I talk to the babies for some CO2 for them and I just love seeing how much they grow within even just a few hours.


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## Xen0glossy (Mar 22, 2011)

It's algae dutch99master, I have a question of my own though, How long do you just use straight water for the end of flowering? (flushing)


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## Liom Fein (Mar 24, 2011)

I'm in the process of designing a closet hydro grow around a 150w HPS. Right now I'm wondering how much space I need to allow for root growth. How long will they get?


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## vic smush (Mar 25, 2011)

My first venture into hydroponics was fairly easy because i had an automatic grow box. I personally didn't have time learn the whole process but within one full harvest. You pick everything up pretty quickly and realize that there really isn't that much to learn.


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## cervezacorona (Mar 27, 2011)

potroast said:


> All right! Hydroponics is what I know, and hydroponics is the way I grow!
> 
> This forum will be great, we can discuss anything hydro. No dirtbags here, We haul water!
> 
> ...


I have been growing in soil for a long time. And it is messy and not at all convenient. I am transitioning to hydro right now.
Before I buy anything too big, I bought a small system, just to get the hang of it. 

I set up my new system yesterday, seeds are germinating right now. I'm pretty excited to not have to find ways to get rid of
old used dirt, I live in a big city, and finding a place to dump soil is not as easy as I'd like. I'm hoping to be 100% hydro in the 
next months.

Is it true that hydro will yield more, and finish faster? Is the flavor different? Potency the same?


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## tails111 (Mar 28, 2011)

Hey Pot roast



> *All right! Hydroponics is what I know, and hydroponics is the way I grow!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


*We have been having problems with watering...

We are running a 20 bucket system, with the little girls going into rock wool cubes then into 17 ltr buckets.







We are using clay balls as our medium called hydrotron, they from Germany.

Have a 13ml top feed tube running around the reservoir bucket feeding two 13ml feeder hoses that run on to the girls then in to the top bucket that is sitting in the reservoir bucket.

Run the water system from to tanks that get pumps water through the system over the girls then back in to the tanks.

We are currently growing white rhino.

Have you heard of girls becoming susceptible to over watering?

We were watering every two hours last crop and over watered them and only realised when we were getting algae on the to and root rot.

Have since pulled the girls out and put them in a smaller tub and cut the algae off the top they seem to be coming back all right..

Really don't want this to happen again!!!!!

What are you watering cycles like?

Do you water on smaller cycles when the girls are smaller?

Please let me know as we about to put some more down and would love to have your answer first!!!!!!!! *


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## Shwagbag (Mar 28, 2011)

Hello everyone, 

I am currently putting together a hydro system for the first time. Ebb and flow with 4 small tables and 4 independent reservoirs for SoG. I am looking for an appropriate reservoir. I live in the midwest and my grow space tends to get cool in the winter (55 during coldest months) and warm in the summer with the HID lighting. I would like to upgrade to 1000w HPS but may keep my 600w HPS and add a 400w CMH. I am in a confined space and would like to keep my reservoirs inside the space. 

Anyways, I am wondering if anyone here has used an insulated cooler for their reservoir to keep their nutrient solution cool in the summer? I am confident it will keep the res temps perfect in the winter. Just looking for someone that might use insulated coolers to offer some information since they run about 40-80 bucks each. 

ShwagBag


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## Shwagbag (Mar 29, 2011)

Any suggestions for some economically priced timer options? I need 2 different timers. I'm setting up 4 ebb and flow trays that will run on the same cycles and I also need a repeat timer for my aeroponic cloner. I'm running the cloner constant right now and I'm having horrible success! i'm hoping this might be the reason why.

Thanks in advance, 

Shwagbag


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## greengenez (Mar 30, 2011)

I use a aero cloner that runs 24/7. It is about 98% in 7 to 10 days. Usually if it takes longer water temps are off. If stems are rotting its to warm, if they're just sitting there, not warm enough. If its to warm check your heater, and water level. The pump will sometimes heat the water to much, if this is the case add water. I run mine in about 4 gallons. In my link I should have pics of mine.


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## Shadow15x (Apr 1, 2011)

hey tails111, where did you get the "hydrotron" clay balls??


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## Shadow15x (Apr 1, 2011)

never mind  haha found 'em


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## annieblue3 (Apr 1, 2011)

I have a few questions....I am using co2..should I shut off 2 weeks prior...I am into week 9 on a 70 day plant. My trichomes are milky with very few amber and I thought they would be more amber by now. What temp should room be? When I do my 3 day flush I was going to top off and still let bottom buds turn or will they all turn at same time?...when I do my 3 day flush should I use new water daily or use same water for 3 days? Any info would be great...


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## koda (Apr 3, 2011)

I have just built a grow room and now it's time to set up my hydroponics but i am having a hard time desiding which system to use. I bought materials to build a drip system but now i am hearing that no matter what you do the drip system will give trouble with the drippers clogging. Soooo, i am looking for advice before i build. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!


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## tails111 (Apr 5, 2011)

> *hey tails111, where did you get the "hydrotron" clay balls?? *


Hey bro

Just grab the balls up from my local hydro shop I live in auz not to sure where you are but il ask the guy we get them from and let you know where he orders them from.


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## tails111 (Apr 5, 2011)

> never mind  haha found 'em


Ha all is well then just read your other post

Chur


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## lukey boii (Apr 10, 2011)

Hey guys, just like to say thanx to the o.p for creating this thread. Im just starting to put together my third grow and ive decided to give hydro a try this time. I wana try the ebb and flow system which im going to make at home. Ive been down to my local hardware store and cant find any trays big enough for the 16 plants i wana grow. So what i was thinking of doing was cutting holes in some big pvc pipes and placing net pots into the holes, than put caps on the ends of the pvc piping and connecting a line from the pump to the pipe, would this work? Well, i no it will work but will it work very well?? The biggest problem i can see with it is the space, from wat ive heard root restrictions arnt really a problem for hydro like they are with soil is this true?

Also what size pump should i get? I wana have 4 lengths of pvc pipe at approx 1m long, so ill need a big enough pump to pump through 4 water lines at the same time.

And would introducing an air stone to the reservoir benefit the plants at all with delivering oxygen??

Thanx to all who can help + rep for those who do, peace


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## omri (May 8, 2011)

hey all 
. i am running a power grower from g.h. it is a recirculating system and i am having problems keeping the ph down. i do a complete res. change set the ph at 5.5 and within two days it is drifting back up and when i check it it is anywhere from 7.0 to 7.5. i am not a rookie at this but am confounded by the rapid rise of the ph can any help me with this thanks in advance. peace


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## aboogie410 (May 12, 2011)

hey whats up guys i got a couple questions . . i just ordered 10 Big Devils and 5 Fast buds and this is my first grow .. this is my set up http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PbqPuZswRhc so does anyone know when i should change the if i should at all since there autoflowers? and what about the water temp? any other tips/advice would be appreciated..


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## aboogie410 (May 12, 2011)

hey whats up guys i got a couple questions . . i just ordered 10 Big Devils and 5 Fast buds and this is my first grow .. this is my set up http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PbqPuZswRhc so does anyone know when i should change the if i should at all since there autoflowers? and what about the water temp? any other tips/advice would be appreciated


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## cgrizzle3 (May 15, 2011)

let me tell you something about that system, Yes it looks bad ass, and its a great concept. But how in the hell would you clean it, do resevoir changes, tend to your plants, etc etc etc?


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## omri (May 15, 2011)

found the possible culprit. looks like bad water to me. i was able to find an artesian well close to home here in sc and since i started using it, no problems with it rising. the well water ph was low. about 4.5 and added base ph up to 6.1 and has stayed there for two days. will check it tonight and where we stand. peace. out


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## pazuzu420 (May 25, 2011)

Shwagbag said:


> Any suggestions for some economically priced timer options? I need 2 different timers. I'm setting up 4 ebb and flow trays that will run on the same cycles and I also need a repeat timer for my aeroponic cloner. I'm running the cloner constant right now and I'm having horrible success! i'm hoping this might be the reason why.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Shwagbag


I'm using the Sentinel MDT-1 and couldn't be happier. Especially in your situation where you have a few pumps running on the same cycle as it has two outlets for pumps that can be set down to the second. I got mine for right around 150 with shipping, which may seem expensive, but if you add up all the features in the timer is it much more affordable than buying them seperately.
Becareful with cheap timers as they have been known to fail and sometimes failure equals fire or damage to other equipment 

Hope that helps...


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## pazuzu420 (May 25, 2011)

I read on another thread that drip emitters didn't do well in combination with clay pellets because the water column would tend to flow straight down through the pellets. As opposed to a spray delivery. I know you can get algae growth on the top of the cube if it is exposed to light so they sell those white reflective covers. I personally had some 1/8 in. rubber sheeting that was black on one side and white on the other in attempt to prevent algae growth.
Love the size of those containers did you make them? It almost looks like a bucket flipped over with another on top....

I've been playing with cycle times and at the moment I've been giving my seedlings 3 waterings a day for 15 min. The cube is wet to the touch but not saturated. Noticed some t-bone roots this morning.


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## dksmska (May 25, 2011)

I have a 55 gallon reservoir hydro system with 12 buckets and 14 plants, how much molasses should I add? I am in the last 3 weeks of flowering? Stunted them all by switching the lights too soon. First grow, you live and you learn. Also have 3 plants in dirt. They look very sad next to the ones in water, already gettin the brown hairs. Thank you!


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## LIVE LEARN N LITE ONE (Jun 16, 2011)

what are the best kind of nutrients to use?i just set up my lavender in my 1st hydro set-up and want it to do well.any other advice appreciated to.


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## cmate (Jun 19, 2011)

I personally have been having good luck with Technaflora products - the BC Boost / BC Bloom / BC Grow.


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## greengenez (Jun 19, 2011)

Botanicare pro line.


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## aeviaanah (Jun 19, 2011)

Whats up hydro community. I'm an experienced soil grower here. Just made the switch away from soil to a 4' x 4' flood and drain system. One of the reasons ive stayed with soil so long was the taste of the end product. I need some good tips on how to flush properly to get that soil-organic quality nug. Any suggestions when to start flush and how long?


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## onthedl0008 (Jun 19, 2011)

I also use the Botanicaire Pro series its mostly organic pretty much and I can't really tell a different in taste from soil to hydro. I don't even flush.
If your going to use the Pro series be sure to get some Calmag esepcially if if running a table with multiple plants/res u may find deficiencies otherwise they are great nutes tho I know stinkbud uses them I've never had any probs anyway.
And good job on the switch to hydro.
Idk about faster Flower times(that's genetics) persay but u will definetely make up for the quickness in Veg.
One thng I do not miss about soil is pretty much everything haha.
No bugs.
All u do is drain ur res to a DRAIN.
Much easier to maintain and keep in complete control.
Does take about a week to establish PH but once DONE u can pretty much not even worry about it.
Good stuff.


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## aeviaanah (Jun 19, 2011)

onthedl0008 said:


> I also use the Botanicaire Pro series its mostly organic pretty much and I can't really tell a different in taste from soil to hydro. I don't even flush.
> If your going to use the Pro series be sure to get some Calmag esepcially if if running a table with multiple plants/res u may find deficiencies otherwise they are great nutes tho I know stinkbud uses them I've never had any probs anyway.
> And good job on the switch to hydro.
> Idk about faster Flower times(that's genetics) persay but u will definetely make up for the quickness in Veg.
> ...


 yea ive really been thinking of switching to botanicare...ive heard good stuff about them, tho...ive heard good stuff about all lineups. ive tried fox farm, gh, humboldt nutrients, age old grow, earth juice and supernatural. all showed great results. earth juice had the best flavors but potency and yield werent the best.


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## onthedl0008 (Jun 19, 2011)

aeviaanah said:


> yea ive really been thinking of switching to botanicare...ive heard good stuff about them, tho...ive heard good stuff about all lineups. ive tried fox farm, gh, humboldt nutrients, age old grow, earth juice and supernatural. all showed great results. earth juice had the best flavors but potency and yield werent the best.


Rite on I was talking to an older cat the other day bro n what he said made a lot of sence. Real simple too.
If u really want to find a lineup most suitable start looking where the manufacturers are makeing the nutes if u have one in your state start with those because those are going to work the best with your water supply. I can attest for Pro series never had any problems and I grow dwc. But like I said in your type of situation with multiple plants shareing the res.. make sure u pick up a calmag supplement to run with the pro series. It helps pack on the frost in heavy produceing strains and u won't experience the deciencies most peeps face with multiple plants shareing reservoirs.
Like I said I don't flush and can't tell a taste difference when I do. But I just read and article about metals in the nutrients so I think I'm gonna start giveing them a fast Clearex flush at the end after they are ready for chop tho.
Lol my girl told me she tried to throw a nugg in the micro to help "quick dry" and she said it started popping.
Lol that would explain the meatlas in the nutez.
Anyway good luck with ur choice of nutes bro.
Peace


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## fasteddy714 (Jun 20, 2011)

I was readin' your post & I fnd a root grower for the sickest roots I had and WOOOO! ! ! ! THIS stuff called:WHITE WIDOW" is the shit ! ! ! THE BEST and I used technaflora's RED1 which is dynamite but... Vitamins and anyway -try it-I forgot who makes it. Might be Humboldt Nuts


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## dfelici2 (Jun 21, 2011)

HEY EXPERTS 
Novice here
Got 5 gallon bucket system with rocks clay, using b cuzz growth <1/0/.7> about 3 weeks in.Temp usually between 75-78 humidyt 60-70 My ph is sending me crazy i start day out on 5.8 get home its at 8 i readjust using vinegar. For one is vinegar ok, and me adding to solution on daily basis would it eventually affect the plant? Here another thing coming from soil im usually ready to flower at 15 day mark meaning i usually have a 8 inch plant with huge fan leaves but my baby superskunk by the way seems to be moving alot slower i will post picks later but based on the information given what am i missing// was thinking micro nuts maybe deficiency of some sort. please help ill post pics


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## greengenez (Jun 23, 2011)

dfelici2 said:


> View attachment 1658955HEY EXPERTS
> Novice here
> Got 5 gallon bucket system with rocks clay, using b cuzz growth <1/0/.7> about 3 weeks in.Temp usually between 75-78 humidyt 60-70 My ph is sending me crazy i start day out on 5.8 get home its at 8 i readjust using vinegar. For one is vinegar ok, and me adding to solution on daily basis would it eventually affect the plant? Here another thing coming from soil im usually ready to flower at 15 day mark meaning i usually have a 8 inch plant with huge fan leaves but my baby superskunk by the way seems to be moving alot slower i will post picks later but based on the information given what am i missing// was thinking micro nuts maybe deficiency of some sort. please help ill post pics


Keep water temps down, I try to keep mine between 68-70f. much more and root rot starts to set in. 
Hope it helps. (I am no expert)


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## onthedl0008 (Jun 24, 2011)

I am also not a pro. And would rather not clutter this thread with certain methods of grow discussion.
I'm sure if u start a thread on dwc and put it in it proper place DWC/Bubbleponics section we should be able to address it properly.


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## greengenez (Jun 25, 2011)

onthedl0008 said:


> I am also not a pro. And would rather not clutter this thread with certain methods of grow discussion.
> I'm sure if u start a thread on dwc and put it in it proper place DWC/Bubbleponics section we should be able to address it properly.


Wow. Talk about clutter


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## atreyuag (Jun 25, 2011)

I just bought my aerogarden..... to grow some herbs what setting do i need to have it on?......what kind of additves and ph tds levels should i keep in the water and etc?


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## dfelici2 (Jun 27, 2011)

greengenez said:


> Keep water temps down, I try to keep mine between 68-70f. much more and root rot starts to set in.
> Hope it helps. (I am no expert)


thank you// any help is greatly apprecitated and ill try not to clutter


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## onthedl0008 (Jun 27, 2011)

My bad I was only trying to say I for one could sit here and talk DWC all day and id be the one cluttering this thread up lol so that post may have came across the wrong way now that I look at it so my wrong on that. 
The only thing I've ever seen stunt growth in DWC is overwatering the medium ROCKwool if your useing it and even the rapidrooters if water levels are to high. Id start right there. Once u have overwatered and stunted growth u have lost that time. Not meaning the plant won't catch up I'm just saying once lost its gotta make it up.
If u want click on the roots in my sig I have a growtorial thread i did it may be very usefull for u to check out. Its not really that long to read either.
Hope it helps.
Peace.


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## GreenthumBum (Jun 28, 2011)

This will be my first hydro grow. I am doing the Screen technique using 7 inch spaced square garden netting. Its white string/ yarn like material in 7inch squares. I was wondering if you guys tie your plants 

down to the netting once they reach it and continue to veg and tie down till you get the size you disire? OR Let the plants get to the netting and then switch to flowering. I have ONLY 3ft between the 

expanded clay and the glass on my aircooled-raptor reflector so I am kind of tight on space. WHAT DO YOU GUYS SUGGEST?


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## onthedl0008 (Jul 4, 2011)

Defintely go with the scrog. Depending on ur strain a may still run outta head room. Good luck tho give it a shot.


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## pazuzu420 (Jul 6, 2011)

I also saw in one of the hydro catalogs they send me that they are making drip caps for 5 gallon buckets these keep the light out as well as have some sort of universal drip emiter that eliminates the need for stakes ect. I don't know if they will give a more even spray pattern vs. running down the hydrotron but seem like a nice product for the DWC guys and gals out there. 
http://www.growwurks.com/cube-cap.aspx although those are for cubes the catalog they sent has them for 5 gallon buckets


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## ruckusman (Jul 7, 2011)

I just transplanted my plant from soil to hydro, when will it snap out of shock and start growing again?Thanks


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## onthedl0008 (Jul 7, 2011)

Really depends on alotta things. What stage of growth they where in before re transplanting from soil to hydro. What kinda hydro method ur using. Makeing sure the elements like PH and PPM are real close when transplanting. I've had seedling maybe into the second week of veg transplant real quick. Like the next day totally acclimated and takeing of nicely. And I've also taken a plant from soil to dwc during a reveg from flower and that plant took about a month to come back around to vegging and growing new growth so there's a lot of things that need to be taken into consideration while transplantin from soil to hydro but that should give u a general window to be looking at. One thing u don't want to do is over water directly upon transplant. It is easy to overwater a plant even in dwc. Id let them acclimate n break them in slowly. If ur in dwc leave the water level an inch or two under the net pots and make the roots grow to the feed. Hope this all helps. Peace.


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## pazuzu420 (Jul 11, 2011)

ruckusman said:


> I just transplanted my plant from soil to hydro, when will it snap out of shock and start growing again?Thanks


I transplanted from my aerocloner right into Ocean'f Forest by Fox Farm with good results. 5 days ago now I transplanted a girl out of my low pressure aeroponic veg system, she is in a 3.5 inch rockwool cube. I looked at trying to remove the cube, which I think would be possible on a larger plant, but the fine root system seems like it would be stripped from the stalk if I tried. I put in directly into Ocean's Forest and water like you would any transplant. I then waited 4 days until the pot felt like when I originally put the soil in. I was concerned that the cube would cause either root rot or stem rot buried beneath the soil like that. Is there a way to strip the cube? Is this just not a good practice? I thought when it was a larger stalk 1/2 diam or so that I could easily strip large chunks as the root mas has grown out of the cube by then.


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## ipman (Jul 26, 2011)

Do i need cal mag in my hydro system? Ive got an all water medium with the non submersable pump and also a coco coir flood system. The all water is looking strong, nice and green but the coco has browning on the very tips. I use the botincare line nuts. I have cal mag botanicare and just wondering if its going to help growth or not do anything at all. I keep my ph at 5.2. Im growning Bruce Banner#9 and have heard its an intermediate strain. I go quarter strength on everything. Im too afraid to bump up the half strength yet.


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## marcu5 (Jul 27, 2011)

i made a bubble ponics system with a small tube that squirts over the medium, how often should i leave the pump on?


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## Geneticfreak (Jul 30, 2011)

ipman said:


> Do i need cal mag in my hydro system? Ive got an all water medium with the non submersable pump and also a coco coir flood system. The all water is looking strong, nice and green but the coco has browning on the very tips. I use the botincare line nuts. I have cal mag botanicare and just wondering if its going to help growth or not do anything at all. I keep my ph at 5.2. Im growning Bruce Banner#9 and have heard its an intermediate strain. I go quarter strength on everything. Im too afraid to bump up the half strength yet.


You can use cal mag in hydro. Your ph is really low. Is there a reason why? What is an all water medium with a non sub pump (under current?)?
Browning could just be heat or nute burn. How bad is it? If the BB looks healhy then its probably fine. I say do nothing if it looks fine. Cal mag is for deficiencies or supplemental. Its not always necessary.


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## senzapieta (Jul 31, 2011)

Hallo there
One question about this 
http://www.giyonline.co.uk/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=87

some advice...Is it ok to take this or not,what you think?!?!

Thanks


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## Whitecat (Aug 4, 2011)

So its my first time growing and I am using the flood system. I just decompressed my coco coir with 9 gallons of water. 
I have been told to soak cal mag into it to. Is that right?


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## Lanternslight (Aug 5, 2011)

How big is the container?


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## Whitecat (Aug 5, 2011)

13 gallon tote.


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## Lanternslight (Aug 5, 2011)

Your coco is in a 13 gallon tote? Or is the 13 gallon tote your reservoir?


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## Whitecat (Aug 5, 2011)

the coco is.


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## Pannekaka (Aug 13, 2011)

I started my first hydro last week, but the seed wont come up.. its germinated good and fast.. im using rockwool cubes.. I set it nearly 5 days ago.. any tips?


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## Toolage 87 (Aug 13, 2011)

Pannekaka said:


> I started my first hydro last week, but the seed wont come up.. its germinated good and fast.. im using rockwool cubes.. I set it nearly 5 days ago.. any tips?


The seed that I put into rockwool tat was germinated in a bowl of water took a while to sprout in rockwool but once it did it was slow but its doing very nice right now.


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## Pannekaka (Aug 13, 2011)

Okei, maybe it will show it self soon then


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## pickmybud (Aug 13, 2011)

Al B. Fuct said:


> Looks like med pot advocate Dennis Kucinich is going to be on the Congressional panels dealing with drug policy- and I think you're right, the med pot playing field is going to change dramatically- but not until there's a Dem in the White House. As long as there's a zero-tolerance proponent in 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue, the war on sick people will still continue in earnest...


Dem in the whitehouse has done jack squat. Vote Ron Paul!


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## FARM ANIMAL (Aug 18, 2011)

Quick question. After the seeds have germinated in rockwool do you remove it from the rockwool and then put it In pellets in the net cups?


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## doniawon (Aug 18, 2011)

FARM ANIMAL said:


> Quick question. After the seeds have germinated in rockwool do you remove it from the rockwool and then put it In pellets in the net cups?


no. if your having problems with the roots not leaving your rw cubes, your probably overwatering. rw retains a ton of water so when germinating in rw a good rule is to keep the cubes/plugs damp but never soggy or wet.. also a seedling heating mat could be the problem. bottom warmth is necessary because it sends the roots to the core of the earth so to speak??. idk. also let the cubes damn near dry out before rewetting and lightly water. the drying will send the roots looking for water down there by the core of the earth somewhere.


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## jsteezy1290 (Aug 23, 2011)

does hydro make your plants more prone to have mold issues then soil?


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## Lanternslight (Aug 23, 2011)

jsteezy1290 said:


> does hydro make your plants more prone to have mold issues then soil?


If you aren't taking down the humidity to the proper level either is dangerous. I haven't, yet, had a problem with my humidity. I know soil growers who do and I know hydro growers that do. It kind of depends on the atmosphere on the outside of the grow room as well. Outdoor(or outside of the indoor) temps, water saturation and everything will still affect you inside.


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## smokie927 (Aug 29, 2011)

HisGirl420 said:


> I'm in my grow room so much. I talk to the babies for some CO2 for them and I just love seeing how much they grow within even just a few hours.


Sorry to say that just being in the room, breathing doesn't boost the growing as much as you think,I have a very accurate co2pm controller, and you don't notice much of a difference,unless you are in a very small grow space.


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## smokie927 (Aug 29, 2011)

jsteezy1290 said:


> does hydro make your plants more prone to have mold issues then soil?


If you are talking about bud mold, It depends on the humidity in your grow space where your plants are flowering, and the size and density of your buds. When you get not much air circulation in those tight big buds and your rooms RH, is high about 50% you are prone to getting bud rot on the inside. It's always important to peel back those big buds to see if those are rotting unless your room is dialled in correctly. Goodluck,Oregon The Chron's State.


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## unlucky (Sep 3, 2011)

im growing 6plants in a gt 604 nft tank with the water pump on a timer but how long do feed for and how often ?


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## unlucky (Sep 10, 2011)

mmmmmmmmmmm no help as yet then


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## Lanternslight (Sep 13, 2011)

What type of medium are you using unlucky? gotta be more specific.


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## dapio (Sep 23, 2011)

I feel very stumped by this whole hydroponic thing, how is that people use a reservoir and send nutrients through spaghetti tubing to their pots and how does this water get returned to the reservoir? It seems with hydroton the water would be flowing very fast but with coco their would be a slow drip of excess if I am not mistaken? most "tutorials" I see have overflow tubes in them and claim the nutrients just drop back down into the reservoir beneath the unit but this just seems very inefficient for a smaller grower.

I see a lot of people who just have their spaghetti tubing right over their pot I have put together this is coming from their reservoir via a water pump that I can accept. What I don't know for sure is do all of these systems need air pumps I am particularly interested in the drip system method because of the ability for the plant to be watered conveniently for a SCROG grow just simply having the water running from the reservoir going straight to the base of the pot allowing my screen to be placed at an ideal 6"(inches) or so above my pot.

However, I cannot seem to get into my head the basis of how the water returns to the reservoir as I mentioned above it scares me to have water running even a small distance if I don't know exactly how it is being controlled and the fact that its not going to leak all over my floor. A friend of mine has a buddy who's whole carpet developed black mold from a leak i'm guessing and the more I hear things like this the more I think I am going to be doomed to hand watering for quite some time, not that I am complaining I have actually gotten quite good at hand watering but I know for a fact if I had hydro down to a tee I could be experiencing faster growth periods and bigger yields.

I was told their are a lot of "nozzles" and other weird things you see in the plumbing isle at home depot but I know not everyone using these setups are good handy men, a coco grower hand watering wishing to finally make the jump to hydro!

Regards

-Dapio


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## VoidObject (Sep 24, 2011)

potroast said:


> This forum will be great, we can discuss anything hydro. No dirtbags here, We haul water!


Damn straight.


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## Lanternslight (Sep 27, 2011)

It's really easy. You shouldn't have overflow if you set your watering timer's properly

The water returns to the reservoir through a drain tube in the tray. There are lots of diagrams out there. Most of it depends on how big your setup is going to be. Definitely going to need a submersible pump.


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## mentalman (Sep 30, 2011)

hi ev1, im new to growing , and was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction ,on nutrient managment, im using canna aqua vega, and it suggests a ph of 5.2 - 6.2 , which i have 5.8, lets say i got an ec of 1.2, and a few days later its raises to 1.3, do i just top up with ph'd water to bring it back down to ec 1.2 , or would this weaken the nutrient. any help would be appreciated


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## moonshine billy (Oct 1, 2011)

yep top it off with fresh water ,and yes that will dilute the mix which is what you want


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## Lanternslight (Oct 2, 2011)

mentalman said:


> hi ev1, im new to growing , and was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction ,on nutrient managment, im using canna aqua vega, and it suggests a ph of 5.2 - 6.2 , which i have 5.8, lets say i got an ec of 1.2, and a few days later its raises to 1.3, do i just top up with ph'd water to bring it back down to ec 1.2 , or would this weaken the nutrient. any help would be appreciated


Check out my journal. I use the Canna line and am coming up on being finished. Pretty much follow the instructions and it will lead you right. Canna will be really nice for you. 

Are you doing a rez change or what? Maybe pm me so we don't jack FaRE's thread.


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## gdpboi (Oct 3, 2011)

Mini Mortgage Lifter please help me out send me a message with the info or just post plleeeeeeez help
1st time grower and i need like all the help as posssible
so as soon as i have my seeds ready 2 plant what should i feed it to make sure it gets everything it needs at that stage? 
is there a different temperature and humidity level that i need at that specific time? 
what lights should i use during that stage and how far from the actual plants do i put the light? 
what are the ppm and ph levels that i need to maintain a great grow thru the different stages?
should i keep the 2 400 watts for my vegitative stage or shud i upgrade? 
do you think 2 600 watts hps are better than 2 1000 watts hps for flowering in my 4x4?
is there a difference between the brands of the lights if so what would be the best lights for my different stages as far as brand is concerned?
and what exactly would be the best purple strain you think i shud try 2 get for hydro?
im so sorry for all these question but i just dont wanna mess nothing up


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## Toss&Turn (Oct 12, 2011)

Hi Everyone! I've had many gardens in the great outdoors. I am now going to try hydro growing. The posts and answers on this page have convinced me to forget about the hills of Cali and grow indoors. Besides, I have gotten old and sick and have a Card. Good luck to all in their various grow stages.

With good product, at night I don't...

Toss&Turn


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## cocakola (Oct 12, 2011)

gdpboi said:


> Mini Mortgage Lifter please help me out send me a message with the info or just post plleeeeeeez help
> 1st time grower and i need like all the help as posssible
> so as soon as i have my seeds ready 2 plant what should i feed it to make sure it gets everything it needs at that stage?
> is there a different temperature and humidity level that i need at that specific time?
> ...


 
Feed your seeds distilled water if u can
temps should be 72-79 (but up to 82 is ok) lights on 65-70 lights off , Humidity should be high early 60 -80rh for seedling and clones and low in flowering 30-45rh
U can use t5 , 8 or 12 or cfl's for your seedlings put them as close as poss ,u can use a mh/hps but they would have to be far away and gradually lowered
You can use what ever light you want the only worry is controlling the temps 
2 600w are good and so are 2 1000w but imo I would say the 1000s if electricity is no prob u can control the temp and want to grow more 
Im pretty sure there is a difference but I can not say for sure which ones are better but any good mh or hps should do the trick dont bust your brain pick one then in the future u can compare
There are some many good purp strains out there , this is one that I would say depends on your preference but i wouldnt advise any purp haze at first maybe after a few go's at it 

I hope this helps you , and remember this is my opinion not fact im pretty sure someone with more exp will give there 2 cents and try and help you. Any questions feel free. Good Luck And Good Growing!


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## MaxJester (Oct 16, 2011)

Hello good people....I have been growing hydro for almost 2 years and things are going ok for this novice. I finally got my act together as far as my grow room goes. I run a 600watt hps over a 3x3 ebb and flow table. room temp is 70 to 75 degrees and humidity is around 40% with plenty of air exchange. I use general hydroponics nutes, a 6 part mix......my water is 160ppm and flood cycles are 15 minutes every 1.5 hours. Now I have been told by the guy at the local grow shop that people run these nutes at 1000 to 1200 to 1500 ppm while flowering. My problem is I have never had a grow that didnt include leaf burn....while in veg the burn is very mild, just the very tip. As soon as you start flowering it becomes worse, and even more so when in agg flowering. I rum ppm at 400 to 500 ppm in veg and 800 to 900 in bloom, both ppm totals include ppm for water. I am told this is very low ppm for this nute line. How much more do I dare cut back nute ppm to avoid this problem and is there an organic hydro nute line out there, my guy tells me no. Sorry, my strains are white russian and pakistan valley.


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## 4x8GH4k (Oct 17, 2011)

anyone using the gh coco mat for table? im having thoughts about this! my res is 115g on a 4x8 temp at 68 and no higher than 75 and res change every 1 week and 3 days! with the mat im getting a build up in res and table! first grow with this setup without the coco matt no problems! anyone experiance this?


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## Umlah000 (Nov 5, 2011)

I'm fairly new to this also, but am already set up and have started my "winter" hydro growing experiment. Several variables to keep track of, but as I see it, nutrients is the most important piece to this puzzle. Getting water to the roots, regulating Ph, keeping the temp within range, lighting and all that are important, but having the right nutrients seems to be the major factor in hydro growing.

Any specific question / problem you're asking about?

One thing I have learned, don't overfeed. 

Hydroponics is like an intravenous feeding system for the plants. Unlike soil, they will "notice" almost immediately if something isn't quite right. So, when mixing up your nute solution, follow the instructions exactly as recommended. Don't overfeed - believe me, the plants will be very happy with just the nutrient mixture as specified, nothing more. 

For what this might be worth, after lots of Q&A with various folks, I decided to start with GH (General Hydroponics) setup & nutes as my first serious foray into hydroponics.

GH has been at this for a very long time (30+ years), so it seemed like a pretty safe bet to start off with their hardware and nutes. Also, they give very clear instructions about what (and what not) to do, and for me, I need all the help I can get.

I'll keep posting here from time to time as this progresses . . .


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## Umlah000 (Nov 13, 2011)

This is what I've learned, and other folks I've talked with tend to agree . . .
When the plants are still young and small, water only needs to be flushed once every 7 - 10 days, but, when they get larger, and start consuming more nutrients (this also depends on the type of nutes being used, temp & lighting intensity), the more often you flush, the better. 

Some have even suggested every 2 - 3 days. That may seem like a lot of work, and it can be, depending on how your hydro system is set up, but the idea is that you want the plants to be as "happy" as possible, and they do like fresh, clean water with just the right nute mixture. You can tell pretty soon, within hours or a day at most, if they are thriving well, or are just sort of getting by.

I understand this also translates into providing nutrients more often, which may seem like a bit of an added expense, but here's the crucial detail that might be the most relevant - it's better to keep giving the plants fresh new water, with a fresh, but carefully measured nute mix (DON'T overfeed), as often as possible, rather than just giving them a big blast of nutes and fresh water less often.

My thought would be, if I'm going to go through with all this initial work, and money put into this project, then I don't mind being a little bit on the fanatical side when it comes to putting in the extra effort, to make these plants as happy as they can be.


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## Umlah000 (Nov 13, 2011)

This is what I've learned, and other folks I've talked with tend to agree . . .
When the plants are still young and small, water only needs to be flushed once every 7 - 10 days, but, when they get larger, and start consuming more nutrients (this also depends on the type of nutes being used, temp & lighting intensity), the more often you flush, the better. 

Some have even suggested every 2 - 3 days. That may seem like a lot of work, and it can be, depending on how your hydro system is set up, but the idea is that you want the plants to be as "happy" as possible, and they do like fresh, clean water with just the right nute mixture. You can tell pretty soon, within hours or a day at most, if they are thriving well, or are just sort of getting by.

I understand this also translates into providing nutrients more often, which may seem like a bit of an added expense, but here's the crucial detail that might be the most relevant - it's better to keep giving the plants fresh new water, with a fresh, but carefully measured nute mix (DON'T overfeed), as often as possible, rather than just giving them a big blast of nutes and fresh water less often.

My thought would be, if I'm going to go through with all this initial work, and money put into this project, then I don't mind being a little bit on the fanatical side when it comes to putting in the extra effort, to make these plants as happy as they can be.


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## Ace11 (Nov 14, 2011)

Yo guys love the read...question for you: I had to go from seeds this time and its my first attempt at going hydro. Any problem with transplanting from soil to hydro at a few weeks old? Any special steps i should take? My grow sys is designed for a large root system and I wanted to develop the roots a bit before throwing the girls in. Thanks!


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## weedtoker (Nov 15, 2011)

Okay so i just have a 400 w hps in a hydro set up that's bubbleponics and top feed. Growing two vanilla kush ladies in the 4 gal res. I pretty much follow the Techna Flora starter kit's guide, with a few tweeks here and there. Anyway, my leaves and buds and turning a deep purple color. the leaves that aren't purple are yellow and very crispy. Also, i'm getting these cattail like growths at the top of some of the buds with new white pistils. Will this fill in or what???? what's causing it???? any help would be much appreciated!!!!!! Love and Light


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## Ryandoe11 (Nov 16, 2011)

Uhm, I like chronic


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## Thedillestpickle (Nov 23, 2011)

well this is the thread to ask anything about hydroponics so heres my question(s)...

Why grow hydroponically? what advantages are you getting that make it worth the extra expense and effort?
I will assume you get a typically bigger yeild over growing with dirt. How should one grow setup done with dirt compare to an identical setup that uses hydroponics in respect to yeild, plant vigour, quality of smoke and so on. 

I hope this isnt the thousandth time youve heard this question


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## RavenMochi (Nov 25, 2011)

Thedillestpickle said:


> well this is the thread to ask anything about hydroponics so heres my question(s)...
> 
> Why grow hydroponically? what advantages are you getting that make it worth the extra expense and effort?
> I will assume you get a typically bigger yeild over growing with dirt. How should one grow setup done with dirt compare to an identical setup that uses hydroponics in respect to yeild, plant vigour, quality of smoke and so on.
> ...


honestly, I'm sure they have heard it, but with that said, they probably won't hear it this time, this thread has been stickied and I don't think anyone really keeps up with it anymore, If your looking for an answer, you might start a thread on it perhaps?


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## Thedillestpickle (Nov 26, 2011)

haha yea thanks I started to realize that too


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## Caponez (Jan 9, 2012)

Hi!

I'm completely new to this but I wanted to start my first grow wit the flood and drain system and very exited but there are a few questions I still have:

1. Is it possible to start a normal grow from seed with this system?
2. How often and for how long should I flood?
3. For a closet grow is it usually enough with the water that circulates in this system to get enough humidity? (medium size closet 130x80x60 = 4'2'' x 2'6" x 1'9")

Thank you in advance!


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## metalbracenboot (Jan 18, 2012)

U have a five gallon bucket, a pump and a bubbler for oxygen, and some of those rounds rocks,as well as a mesh pot, but I am considering coconut fibre.
Have no clue on what to do from here. Help anyone?


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## kevinanderson (Jan 30, 2012)

I'm grateful your satisfied with your buy barberberryfarm. But when it comes to retail developed hydroponic techniques there are two concerns, price, and customizability. If your willing to bargain on both number, excellent. The produce created cash. I still don't know why you would invest so much cash for something you could have quickly developed yourself. I can only believe it was because time is cash, and you must create more investing your some time to effort doing other elements. 
I'm not sure what occurred in those three decades that you weren't able comprehend how to develop the program you compensated someone else to produce for you. But if you were able too, you would have stored countless numbers. It's my comprehension their techniques begin at about $2,700. For the price of the dimension their beginning techniques, you could have developed the same (COMPLETE SYSTEM) yourself for about $600 if you desired to take plenty of period in doing so. Even for huge professional functions, selecting short-term help that can fallow guidelines is still cheaper (regardless of the program being built).


Of rough not everybody's goals are the same, but individuals with cash to get rid of have the capability to to not be worried with the cash they invest. I think the best way I can put it is if you have cash to get rid of, then going to a eating place 7 night time per weeks time for dinner, or having a individual create is excellent and well value it. But for most of us, comprehension how to create our own food has come in very useful, as well as stored us a lot of money (a lot of money other individuals have to spend). I don't mean any crime, just trying to demonstrate there are different tips on how to think of elements based on your scenario. And that climate you have the cash to get rid of or not, comprehension how to do elements for yourself "IS" always valuable.


For a guy like me, even if I had $3,000 to invest on a retail produced program, I would still want to create the most of the cash. I would take those same resources and develop my own system/s and be able to develop 5 periods or more vegetation with the same cash, rather hips it on a produce. Making the effort to do it yourself is ALWAYS valuable, NO MATTER HOW MUCH MONEY YOU HAVE TO SPEND.


If you would have used your some time to effort developing techniques rather than examining brochures/product statements etc., you would have obtained much more comprehension in how to put the them together in the first position (how they work). That's common, some individuals invest a lot of cash purchasing retail developed techniques. They get them house and put them together, then recognize after a few several weeks how to strengthen them, and/or their restrictions. Then after they see how they function, they develop their own techniques. Why not begin there in the first place?


I'm grateful your satisfied with the fulfillment in comprehension you obtained in placing together something someone else created. But there's a big change in comprehension what your doing, and just being able to put something together. In addition to the design. There's a change between getting some wooden, and making a house or display cases from the begining. When compared to just fallowing guidelines on how to set up ones you purchased from IKEA. The comprehension you obtain from developing them yourself greatly ought weighs what you obtain from developing placing together something someone else made/designed (my unique point).


There just isn't any evaluation in the two when it comes to fulfillment for me. Both will allow you to sit down to dinner at the desk climate you really developed it yourself, or just fallowed set up guidelines. But only one gives me fulfillment, and that isn't placing together something someone else made/designed.


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## Gigaah (Jan 30, 2012)

I think I understand what kevinanderson is saying. Even if English is not his first language and it was long. He is talking about getting more for your money by doing it yourself. Learning about it by doing and building systems yourself thus getting understand what your working with and on a very intimate basis. He obviously loves to learn by doing things himself, and is very driven to so. Takes pride in doing it while saving money. In his mind if you can do it yourself, but instead pay for a prefab retail item your wasting your hard earned money furiously. Even if you have a lot of money to spend he still feels it is very wasteful. I understand and partially agree. However..

I've been in a place in life where I had very little free time and plenty of extra money. Where free time is very limited and precious or other projects consume what free time you do have. Spending what seems like a ridiculous amount of money on something that JUST FREAKING WORKS and doesn't require a lot of planning, learning, and/or screwing around is very much a valid and non wasteful thing to do. They say Time is money. If you don't have money, but have time. It only makes sense to do it yourself. If you don't have time, but have money. It makes perfect sense to buy something that you can just plug in a go. So you can accomplish your goals with out spending much of your precious free time you could be spending with family or doing other projects that are closer to your heart.

Many people just want to DO IT and not fuss around or have a desire to know the intimate details of it.I'm not one of those people generally, but I understand those that do.

Example: Most people use a computer. If your reading this no doubt you do. You can save a bunch of money if you order all the parts, plug it all together, install the operating system yourself, load all the drivers so your stuff works right. Even as plug and play as it is now days. It still requires a decent amount of understanding to do this however if you want a reliable end result. However the vast majority of people(not me, I build my own) just want to buy something, hit the power button, and have the computer do what they want it to with out knowing exactly how it works. You can't fault them for it. They just don't have the time, energy, or desire to learn all that just so they can use finally get the end result. Which is a computer they might just be surfing the web with, keeping in touch with social sites, or doing business on.

Yeah my post got long too. I don't even know why I read the above post..and then felt the need to attempt to interpret it and perhaps wrongly. Just don't ask..I don't have that answer for you. 
MONKEY!! MONKEY!! MONKEY!!


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## Toke,Choke,Joke (Jan 31, 2012)

is it good if my stems are red, almost pink?


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## cary schellie (Feb 10, 2012)

what is the difference between DWC and waterfarm?


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## shishkaboy (Feb 16, 2012)

Hey all im a former dirtbagger turned ebb n flower. I have noticied that my ph constabtly rises from 5.8 to like 7.1 after a few cycles of flooding and draining. So on the last res cleaning i phed it to 5.4. to try and stabilize it a lil more. Opinions on this move? What do u other ebb nflowwers ph to? Im using hydron with no rockwool. Straight from cloner to ebb n flow. Foxfarm nutes. the plants look ok but when i ee 7.1 ph after i set it to 5.8 i must try hard not to freak out


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## Rick Ratlin (Feb 17, 2012)

could be many things, maybe too small a reservoir, I recommend dyna gro nutrients with protekt, ph is rock solid all the time. check out homebrewers thread on dyna gro for some good info


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## shishkaboy (Feb 17, 2012)

res too small? maybe its 8 gal filled with 5 gal liquid.


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## upgrade2012 (Feb 17, 2012)

i have five six site hydro sorce systems i have one 300 watt led dual light . i need to know if i need anothe light and if so what size? first grow


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## upgrade2012 (Feb 17, 2012)

this is my first grow , im useing five hydo sorce 6sitesi want to grow with leds and i need to find out what size to get.


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## Rick Ratlin (Feb 18, 2012)

the trays i run are 3x2 feet and 12 plants straight from cloner. I found i need at least 18 gallons, but i use 20 gallons and don't have to top off but every few days. ph is rock solid but i attribute that to dyna gro notes. 5 gallons seems really low, unless you're only running a few plants. what's up with the tubing into the rez, is that ebb and flow? hope that helps


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## dirtysouth420 (Feb 18, 2012)

Hey guys new to hydro as well. I have a 2x2 ebb and flow setup with 150w hps in a dr60. I have a few seedlings that i just germinated and wanted to know when to start flooding them and when to add nutes. They are all autoflowering strains also. Im using using rockwool cubes and hydroton. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks


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## shishkaboy (Feb 18, 2012)

yes ebb n flow thats overflow retun line u see there. i m putting max 6 plants in each planter 3 seperate planters though. how much roots b4 planting i just lost 2 to not letting em root enough. how tall r u plants when they r done?This is my first ebb n flow so i have quite a few questions for ya thanx 4 the info tho. I also am getting some salt buildup on the top of the hydroton during ry times. But the plants seem to be doing fine tho


Rick Ratlin said:


> the trays i run are 3x2 feet and 12 plants straight from cloner. I found i need at least 18 gallons, but i use 20 gallons and don't have to top off but every few days. ph is rock solid but i attribute that to dyna gro notes. 5 gallons seems really low, unless you're only running a few plants. what's up with the tubing into the rez, is that ebb and flow? hope that helps


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## m23mark (Mar 31, 2012)

hi guys.

i have recently bought a drip irrigation system (wilma system). I have always previously grown in soil so i wasnt expecting tyhe best of results for my first attempt using hydroponics and i always messed up by using seeds and they grew way faster than i was expecting eventually there was no more room and i had to bin them  I think my ec was too high though as there has been a huge salt build up around the clay pebbles. my question is this;

what is the best way to clean and also flush clay pebbles out when they are suffering from salt build up???
any advice would be much appreciated chaps, thanks.


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## Lucius Vorenus (Apr 15, 2012)

Whats the best way to keep water recirculating in a 40 gal res without heating the water?


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## davwanemo2 (Apr 19, 2012)

Hi Lucius,

Are you using an Ebb and Flow system? If so and you have an older version then you just need to make sure there are no holes in the tubing to prevent the system from syphoning the water from the reservior to the controller pump and the controller pump pumping the excess water back to the reservior. I see this as a problem because it fluctuates my PH too much. I actually didn't want this to happen so I poked a hole in the black tubing right before it leaves the res that goes to the controller pumped. (Thanks to BadAndy's advice)


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## fandango (Apr 20, 2012)

after reading al b fuct...i am going to finish this round using the drip system and follow al's flood an drain set up.to the tee!
this round i am using 2-3x3 tables,hydroton,2000w.with a sea of green system.been 120 days now?buds are good(platnium kush)but popcorn sized.lots of em.
with al's set up I am looking forward to growing one big bud per plant.....thanks big Al.


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## bass1014 (Apr 25, 2012)

hi gang so i have been reading a bunch of post but i can't seem to get a proper answer..but some great solutions but i figured i would ask again..i am using a babybloomer with 10 5x5 pots and i am doing a sog from clones my issue is that my ph is constantly rising to a 7+ i use a ph down but i find myself doing this every week to keep it below a 6.. the nutes, are humbolt brand by general hydroponics. my resivor size is 6gallons.. i baught this babybloomer over 10 years ago and its great for clones but i have never had this issue with rising ph.. any clues on what to do..
THANKS AND KEEP ON GROWIN


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## stoneyguy84 (Apr 29, 2012)

hey every one i have a question i am going rdwc and i have two 12 pot system side by side and 12 of them are short indica and 12 of them are sitiva and tall as hell and the sitiva system keeps drooping ph real quick everyday and i been keeping up on keeping it at 5.8 but y is it keep dropping the other plants getting the same nuties and there ph stays steady what could be wrong any help woul be help full thnks


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## reddragon1az (May 1, 2012)

Lucius Vorenus said:


> Whats the best way to keep water recirculating in a 40 gal res without heating the water?


A DWC set-up with an inline pump that sits outside the system.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=eQ6bd1ACNNs


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## Imnewidkwhattodo (May 6, 2012)

Hey, newb here. I'm new to hydroponics so try not to be too critical of me  Long story short, I'm just curious about when to transplant my girl into the hydro system. Right now she's just sprouted through a peat puck. My hydro set up is a 5 gallon bucket with a feed pump and air stone. The pump exhaust into a smaller suspended container which houses hydroton pellets. 

When is it ok to put my lady in her new home? Do I wait a couple weeks or until shes a certain size? Have I messed up already? Any help is appreciated!


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## Shwagbag (May 6, 2012)

reddragon1az said:


> A DWC set-up with an inline pump that sits outside the system.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=eQ6bd1ACNNs


I'm loving that setup! I don't even grow hydro but I might switch for something plug and play like that.


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## Sonar Killa (May 9, 2012)

Hi everybody.

Could someone please help me, and take a look at this thread i started, so i don't have to repeat all of that in here.

https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/526418-hi-i-have-10y-experience.html

Or at least show how to proceed about asking for help, since i´m new to this forum stuff.

Thank you in advance.


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## PetFlora (May 12, 2012)

I have developed what I call *21st Century Food & Drain*

Click on my sig to view


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## DankBuddha (May 30, 2012)

I've got a question. I'm using hydro to grow White Widow right now, and I was wondering: growing from seed, what do you *start* your seed in before going to the hydro system?


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## Beeda (Jun 1, 2012)

i am new to hydro, and am growing in a tent. i cwas wondering what is the ideal temp for the tent and the resivoir?


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## Lucius Vorenus (Jun 1, 2012)

Beeda said:


> i am new to hydro, and am growing in a tent. i cwas wondering what is the ideal temp for the tent and the resivoir?



for past year ive had res at 70-72 and temps i find that 80 i get better growth but some people say 76. whatever.


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## 1itsme (Jun 1, 2012)

hey,
I'm using a home made flood table, the plants hang in 6 in net pots in 1 in rockwool cube surrounded by hydroton (only in the pots no media in the table). I've been thinking that it might be better for me to put my plants in 2 or 3 gallon smartpots or nursery pots to have a larger volume of hydroton around the roots. just having the roots growing out into the table im having a hard time getting the watering times down. is it better to use larger pots in a flood table rather than just letting the roots grow out on the table under the lid (its light proof)?


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## aquafarmsrule247 (Jun 4, 2012)

hi there good ppl of this hyddro thread i am in need of help i am thinking that i have a mg problem but not to sure the edges of my leaves are curling over not the tips ut the sides of the leaf i am useing sensi grow my ph is at 6 and kept there my light is 600w duel spec sun master and i am running a warter farm my mix is in 25l i am useing 25ml sensi grow part aand the same of b but i am getting my arse kicked with slow groth and leaf curl any help would be great much love to the hydro


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## aquafarmsrule247 (Jun 4, 2012)

hear are some pics is itor do i have a problem or is it just me that is white rhino 4 weekd from seed popping to this


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## PetFlora (Jun 9, 2012)

Lucius Vorenus said:


> for past year ive had res at 70-72 and temps i find that 80 i get better growth but some people say 76. whatever.


Hey LV, funny finding you here. I find 80 is great for veg, but cooler days and even cooler nights help budding and trich production. Have you dropped in on my journal? (Everyone is invited) 

I have 2 super simple DIY hydro systems plus a hpa system all going on at the same time. 2 are under my T5, the other basking under a combo of UFO 90 + 2 CFLs + 2 reptile bulbs for uv and deep reds. Since switching to Hydroponic-research Veg + BLOOM the buds and trichs are rockin


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## Lucius Vorenus (Jun 10, 2012)

cool man i'll check it out


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## Creoleann (Jun 25, 2012)

Also new to hydro growing. Just put rooted seedlings in. Now how long til they go in vegetation side?


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## JBombs (Jul 15, 2012)

Q? i wanna make a simple homemade hydroponics system what supples would i need. and how should i maintain day to day.


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## hxvoc (Jul 17, 2012)

how many times should i flood newly transplanted clones moved to hydroton?


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## feildgrow247 (Jul 19, 2012)

I have a 1 bucket setup how often should I change the water and a 6 bucket setup same question


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## Broncos Fan (Jul 20, 2012)

I am getting ready for my first grow. I bought a 4' X 8' grow tent, a 1000W HPS/MH light, and an EBB Hydro system. Can anyone tell me everything I need? Thanks


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## white sparxxx (Jul 22, 2012)

i am using a flood and drain with hydroton. my plants are in rapid rooters and are rootbound. do i have to put the rapid rooter in a bigger block of rockwool or can i just leave it alone in the hydroton and let it grow?


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## Lucius Vorenus (Jul 23, 2012)

white sparxxx said:


> i am using a flood and drain with hydroton. my plants are in rapid rooters and are rootbound. do i have to put the rapid rooter in a bigger block of rockwool or can i just leave it alone in the hydroton and let it grow?


Drop those into larger cubes or if you are gonna do Coco just drop them into red party cups of Coco.


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## mikearnill (Jul 23, 2012)

white sparxxx said:


> i am using a flood and drain with hydroton. my plants are in rapid rooters and are rootbound. do i have to put the rapid rooter in a bigger block of rockwool or can i just leave it alone in the hydroton and let it grow?


Yes, use of rapid rooter in a bigger block of rockwool provide effective and easy way to plant to grow. It help to plant to use Rapid Rooter for robust early rooting which supports better plant growth and combines composted organic material with plant-derived polymers to provide ideal conditions for beneficial microbes to thrive in the root zone for growing.


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## Killercross420 (Jul 24, 2012)

Just make sure when transplanting u make sure u have enough room for your roots to slide into the new cubewithout being damaged!!! I usually push the centers down in the big squares almost flat to give the roots enough room to take off in the new home safely!! Hope this helps


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## Beeda (Jul 27, 2012)

What is the best advanced nutrients to use wile flowering? I am using b52,big bud,bud candy,nirvana, and sensi bloom a&b. Is there any I am missing or is this good enough?


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## HONDO420 (Aug 7, 2012)

CAN YOU HELP, THIS IS MY FIRST POST. I HAVE BEEN TRYING FOR OVER A YEAR, WITH DIRECTION FROM THE LOCAL HYDRO SHOP AND STILL FOR A YEAR I HAVE HAD NO GOOD TASTING, SMELLING FLOWERS. " IM STARTING TO GET DEPRESSED" I SPENT THOUSANDS ON GEN HYDRO PODS, THE 17 GAL SIX HOLE. I BOUGHT EVERY PRODUCT GEN HYDRO HAS. THE THREE PART FLORA SERIES, AND ALL THE EXPERT LISTED RECIRCULATING CHART NUTRIENTS. METERING EQUIP. I HAVE JUST GAVE UP ON THE HYDRO STORE. ARE YOU FAMILAR WITH THE GEN HYDRO PRODUCTS. I CAN NOT AFFORD RIGHT NOW TO SWITCH NUTRIENT BRANDS., IM LOOKING FOR SOMEONE WHO IS ALREADY USING THE SAME WITH ACCEPTABLE RESULTS. I WOULD LIKE TO THANK YOU IN ADVANCE FOR ANY HELP OR LEAD TO SOMEONE WITH THE SAME. THANKS. HONDO.






[/QUOTE]THANK YU


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## whilenina (Aug 9, 2012)

One again, Keep working. Thanks. . .


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## ringlead3r (Aug 9, 2012)

In a NFT system how important is the water flow rate I believe I'm running it at or under 1 liter per minute any other suggestions for more efficient or better results.


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## the dropper (Aug 13, 2012)

yo, been doing alot of reading and cant find a straight answer to my question. what kind of nuits should i use in a 5 gal bubble system? been looking @ PH Perfect GMB from AN.


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## mrgrape (Aug 29, 2012)

*Making The Switch!!!!*

Hello everyone!! Just made the big move back west and I am starting from scratch. Ive been growing in soil(*roots*) for the past two years with great progression. I have been using the* Flora Nova* series with great results and wanted to run the same in my aero system that i have built. I was just wondering if anyone on here is familiar with that line in an *aeroponic *(no grow medium) set up?? i havent got anything up and running yet and just hoped that i could get a few guidelines like PH, TDS, If this series of nutrients cause a lot of algae growth in the reservoir?? just the basics and what i can look for.. Any help/tips/knowledge from past experiences with flora nova line or just aeroponics in general wold be GRATEFULLY appreciated!


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## Dr. Robert Blanco (Aug 29, 2012)

Hi all you RIU guru's I have just built a new hydro garden that i will put into play when the weather cools down a lil. Will be posting pics from day 1....hopefully i dont screw it up too bad hehe but will defiantly be asking for advice as issues arise .....Good luck every one and happy toking


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## HomeGrownCheeba (Aug 30, 2012)

Hey guys I just harvested all of my plants so first grow is over, for second grow I'm going to be doing a hydroponics setup , I'm buying a. 4x8x10 tent and a 4x8 flood table with two aircooled lights some inline fans 2x 400W on light movers and I plan to.use technaflora recipe for success, I'm deciding between cheese, Dutch passion. blueberry or bc bud seeds depot mendo purps . plan to water 3 times a day with 15 minute watering intervals and waterinf when its.cooled like early in the morning and.the late night as well as once in the afternoon, going to do 10 regular seeds and scrog this time as well as lollypopping because I had.lots of popcorn nugs. last go around


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## backyardagain (Aug 30, 2012)

Flood and drain with coco? Really considering taking the switch.


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## Shwagbag (Aug 30, 2012)

backyardagain said:


> Flood and drain with coco? Really considering taking the switch.


If I went hydro that's the direction I would go. I would probably try the chunks. No time for hydro though, until I have the time its super soil for me!


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## lordjin (Aug 30, 2012)

mrgrape said:


> *Making The Switch!!!!*
> 
> Hello everyone!! Just made the big move back west and I am starting from scratch. Ive been growing in soil(*roots*) for the past two years with great progression. I have been using the* Flora Nova* series with great results and wanted to run the same in my aero system that i have built. I was just wondering if anyone on here is familiar with that line in an *aeroponic *(no grow medium) set up?? i havent got anything up and running yet and just hoped that i could get a few guidelines like PH, TDS, If this series of nutrients cause a lot of algae growth in the reservoir?? just the basics and what i can look for.. Any help/tips/knowledge from past experiences with flora nova line or just aeroponics in general wold be GRATEFULLY appreciated!


I would say try a more water soluble nute like AN or something else. That Nova gunk is a bitch.


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## backyardagain (Aug 30, 2012)

I was thinking like line the vottom with that coco pots just rip a lil up to atuf upp the bottom then just add like bio's coco or canna's coco basically shredded like that it would be two forst for me going into hydro and coco. I have the time for it just want to build my own flood n drains. I wanna make a 2x2 for veg and like a 3x4 aince I have a 4x4 and a 2x2 tent.


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## chuckles01 (Sep 17, 2012)

Well chaps, im taking the plunge and going over to Hydro. Im using a NFT system and using Aqua flakes nutes. Is there any journal on here that i could read that will explain everything step by step?

cheers.


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## nwesthydro (Sep 19, 2012)

I am useing the NFT system and it seems like my blueberry kush girls are 2 weeks early since this is my 2nd time, useing hydroponics I wonder if anyone can tell me what i need to see that would tell they are ready and what happens if i harvest a week early I need to thin the forest a bit 
Thanks


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## nwesthydro (Sep 19, 2012)

NFT is awesome I have not found to much on this system but I can tell you a few things i have ran into like neutriants build up and the spray jets are super hard to clear in the middle of growing and the build up on the root i use a separate pump from res to wash them down i lost one plant because of to much build up and water temp keep it below 75 the light really heats it up and dehumidifier 30% or lower flush every 2 weeks and stager the plants every other site i start clones on 12 hr and 6-8 weeks finished
Ph 5.5 to 6.3 ppm 1200 to 1800 temp -72degrees 
Air pump and a extra water pump on hand if one fails


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## chuckles01 (Sep 21, 2012)

nwesthydro said:


> NFT is awesome I have not found to much on this system but I can tell you a few things i have ran into like neutriants build up and the spray jets are super hard to clear in the middle of growing and the build up on the root i use a separate pump from res to wash them down i lost one plant because of to much build up and water temp keep it below 75 the light really heats it up and dehumidifier 30% or lower flush every 2 weeks and stager the plants every other site i start clones on 12 hr and 6-8 weeks finished
> Ph 5.5 to 6.3 ppm 1200 to 1800 temp -72degrees
> Air pump and a extra water pump on hand if one fails


So how often do you feed them? going to using Aqua flakes nutes.

cheers


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## Dbossmanfl (Sep 23, 2012)

ok i have a 6 inch net pot drip stick system with a 20 gallon resivour. iam growing with hydroton and rapid rooter. want to know if you could give me a fedding schedule if they are about 3 weeks old. and iam using the ph perfect nutes from advance nutes do you think i should change the water even if my ph stays balanced. here is my set up and my 3 plants i started himilaya blue diesel.


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## scotty bagmonster (Sep 23, 2012)

Dbossmanfl said:


> ok i have a 6 inch net pot drip stick system with a 20 gallon resivour. iam growing with hydroton and rapid rooter. want to know if you could give me a fedding schedule if they are about 3 weeks old. and iam using the ph perfect nutes from advance nutes do you think i should change the water even if my ph stays balanced. here is my set up and my 3 plants i started himilaya blue diesel.View attachment 2345924View attachment 2345925View attachment 2345926View attachment 2345927View attachment 2345928View attachment 2345929View attachment 2345930


little plants dont take up hardly any nutes you can use plane water for like a week then set your ppms to like 200 -300 then i use my ppm pen to tell me if they are eating or just drinking = ppm raise means they drinking . ppm lowers that means they eating and i give them 50-100 ppm's more! if no nute burn they will explode with new growth you can tell one day to the next in dwc ! happy growing!!!!!! forgot to tell you dont mess with changing your res for like 2 weeks as there wont be that bad of salt build-up just top off and check your ph !


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## ringlead3r (Sep 26, 2012)

chuckles01 said:


> So how often do you feed them? going to using Aqua flakes nutes.
> 
> cheers


NFT there is no time feeding schedule. without experiencing with timers u just run the pump 24/7


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## ringlead3r (Sep 26, 2012)

to add pumps break down faster with timers


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## Denza (Oct 23, 2012)

Hi, I want to know if there is an aeroponic growguide with details on how to grow aeroponically. I now only find the information scattered and not very easy accessible.


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## hmasonb34 (Nov 4, 2012)

Hello im the newest newb of the site. Ive been cramming my mind with mind blurring knowledge from this site. I still need alot of info and am looking for a guide to get me started cause i dont wanna keep bugging everyone with stupid questions. Here is what ive decided so far. Im growing in my closet (master bed room). I have a area picked out its 5 feet tall 4 feet wide and 2 foot deep. So I'm going to build a lockable cabinet to fit that spot. With my cabinet being 5' tall 4' feet wide and 2' deep I'm going to make a dual chamber cabinet. I'm going to put a devider going up and down at 2'-6" from the right side. So now I have 2 chambers one will be 2-6 wide and 2 foot deep and 5 foot tall. That will be my flowering chamber and im looking to grow 8 plants in a single tub with a hydroponic system. Is that chamber big enough to pull this off and what size hps lamp should i run. I figure ill loose 1 foot of space for my tub and a foot of space for the light giving my about 3 foot of space for plant growth. The second space will be a dual purpose as it will hold my clones/veg and a mother plant. running t5s at 6500k to. I would like to get on a cycle of harvest every month. with all plants clone and veg for one month. then move them to bloom for a month then harvest and repeat. Does this sound possible. Is there anyone out there runnning a set up ike this is this possible. Can anyone give me some ideas on what size pumps (water and air) nutes midium ferts. I would love to run some type of multi feed watering system. Drippers, bubble ponics from air pumps under neithe, and direct port injection to the medium. Am i crazy here. does anyone have a set up like this or pictures of there set up i can look at and get some ideas. please help all the reading ive done has my brain warped and im looking for one good solid set up i can mimik and be productive. what would be great would be someone who has my dream and made it a reality and is willing to shhoot me there phone number so i can as questions in real time. If anyone is willing to help please shoot me your number or even an email address. Please once again i need help. My wife thinks this hydroponics is to good to me true and isnt sure if I can pulll it off so i wanna prove to her i can but I need an insider who knows whats going on. the only other 2 guys i know who grow use soil and i wanna blow the yeilds away.

once again please if someone doesnt mind helping It would be greatly appreciated. 


Thanks again in advance. 

Lonely grower with nothing growing YET!!!!!!!!!!!


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## ilovemaryj90 (Nov 14, 2012)

Quick question guys. I have a 4'x4' flood trey. I'm trying to figure out what medium to use. I will be using clones from my mothers. Now my question is this, do you guys think it would be ok to just fill the trey with hydroton, then just place the plugs into the Hydroton? I'm planning on have 64 clones in the trey, 4 per sq foot.


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## doniawon (Nov 14, 2012)

ilovemaryj90 said:


> Quick question guys. I have a 4'x4' flood trey. I'm trying to figure out what medium to use. I will be using clones from my mothers. Now my question is this, do you guys think it would be ok to just fill the trey with hydroton, then just place the plugs into the Hydroton? I'm planning on have 64 clones in the trey, 4 per sq foot.


you can fill the tray with hydroton and place your plugs in the rock. I would not suggest this if your growing small plants and im sure you will encounter rocks plugging your fill and drain fittings and tubeing unless you place weed blocker or some kinda fabric over them. I would also assume you will have algae problems unless your super dialed in on your watering times and keep your reservoir fresh.. 

my suggestion is, if your just staring with hydoponics and flood tables go with 4" or 6" rockwool cubes and set your tray up for ebb and flood 3 floods a day.. Or maybe grab some 6" pots and fill them with hydroton and run a drip line to each. i like 45 min on every 3 hrs.. off at night for my drippers


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## doniawon (Nov 14, 2012)

with 64 plants you could use 3" rockwool cubes and maybe stack them when the roots come out of the bottoms. your gonna want to lollipop and watch for powder mildew. good air circulation is a must.


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## Lookin2Buy (Nov 16, 2012)

Looking for friends i have my hydro systems coming soon and will have a lot to chat about!


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## ilovemaryj90 (Nov 19, 2012)

Thanks for the replies guys. One more question. Does anyone know where I can find 4" or 6" square net pots in bulk? Can't seem to find any.


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## SpectatorFernFirm (Nov 21, 2012)

dcyans said:


> Depends on the system bro I've done plenty of no flush grows and believe me I was dead against it for a long time until I started using Lucas's formula and recommended addbacks. you would think of course that some of the element salts would build up to toxic levels but it really doesn't come into play as you would thing when you properly manage your nutrient solutions. I will still recommend especially for beginners res changes every two weeks but not before that is only wasting nutrients as well as adding extra waste to the environment.


So here's a question. If you flush every two weeks how do you manage the evap? I mean when adding water to your res to replace evap how do you go about it? I ask cause when being lazy (40%of the time) I go two weeks between flush but for the most part I try for every Saturday new food. I add water every 3 days and I'll do 2 gal one with nutes and one plain. So my nutes never have time to be completely used up. Is that bad or is that the idea of it all? I only try for every week cause my fukn hydroton makes a mess of my water. I wash the crap out of them and they still make a mess. So I dump all that out and start fresh. Well that's in the bloom room. In veg room I do biweekly as it was water mostly slight nutes. Today was first real feed for clippings and seedlings.


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## SpectatorFernFirm (Nov 21, 2012)

ilovemaryj90 said:


> Thanks for the replies guys. One more question. Does anyone know where I can find 4" or 6" square net pots in bulk? Can't seem to find any.


eBay for super cheap too. The store will rape you. I got 25 for like $10 I believe it was.


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## GypsyBush (Nov 21, 2012)

ilovemaryj90 said:


> Quick question guys. I have a 4'x4' flood trey. I'm trying to figure out what medium to use. I will be using clones from my mothers. Now my question is this, do you guys think it would be ok to just fill the trey with hydroton, then just place the plugs into the Hydroton? I'm planning on have 64 clones in the trey, 4 per sq foot.


I highly.... HIGHLY! Recommend using pots in your ebb flow tray...Done ebb flow for years, trust me... Pots will work FOR you....There are 3 potleaves on my sig... Click on the left one and scroll down... You'll see...


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## ilovemaryj90 (Nov 22, 2012)

GypsyBush said:


> I highly.... HIGHLY! Recommend using pots in your ebb flow tray...Done ebb flow for years, trust me... Pots will work FOR you....There are 3 potleaves on my sig... Click on the left one and scroll down... You'll see...


Very nice thread man. Much respect.


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## bongmarley7 (Nov 25, 2012)

View attachment 2420144alright fellow tokers. this is my setup a Titan flow n grow system (flood & drain) i have it all hooked up properly and the pots are filled with hydrocorn. ive rinsed the hydrocron now im about to flood them with water and h2o2 to give them a final clean before transplanting my clones into here. i have a few question in regards to cleaning the res. i am using all roots organic nutrients, in res for my soil garden it gets pretty stank in there so i clean it every two weeks. so i can only imagine with the hydro res it will do the same. when cleaning it, am i suppose to drain all the nutrient water out then clean the res out (i prefer to use h2o2 and water) and then fill it back up and flush the roots with just PLAIN RO water? do i only flush them for 24 hours and then add nutrients and start over again?


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## GypsyBush (Nov 25, 2012)

Just clean your set up every two weeks and you will be fine... Just fill back up to specs... No need to flush for 24 hours...
i would top feed some fresh water over each pot, as part of my tray/res clean up...

but no need to clean everything twice...

good luck!


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## bongmarley7 (Nov 25, 2012)

GypsyBush said:


> Just clean your set up every two weeks and you will be fine... Just fill back up to specs... No need to flush for 24 hours...
> i would top feed some fresh water over each pot, as part of my tray/res clean up...
> 
> but no need to clean everything twice...
> ...


 Thanks GypsyBush! just so were on the same page , i am suppose to raise the nutrients or ppm every week? or every two weeks? my clones are 4 weeks old and nice healthy roots from my EZ cloner. again i am using the whole roots organic line and sense im going to straight into 12/12 i am going to run buddha grow the first nute mix and then run buddha grow their on out along with the other nutes. starting ppm at 600 and i will not go more than 1200 depending on how they look. I am transplanting tomorrow so i am trying to double check EVERYTHING thank you guys. I am going directly into 12/12 given my tent size i am going to do a SOG as well (first time) but i believe i got the right idea on that. ive been topping them too to insure short bushiness.


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## GypsyBush (Nov 25, 2012)

Topped, short andbushy plants does NOT sound like SOG... 
SOG is a bunch of single cola lollipops...

but regardless, in my op, I always kept my resmat full strength... I had 4 trays, with 48 lollpops each, and each tray was 2 weeks apart... Again, one res at full strength...

if you got good roots, it will not hurt them... Look up Al B. Fuct's threads on the forum here... Lots of good "no-nonsense" info...

but yeah... Good luck!


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## GypsyBush (Nov 26, 2012)

Al's threads... He has more... Look for them...

https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/6592-get-harvest-every-2-weeks.html

https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/94811-al-b-faqt.html

https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/15030-batch-clones-rockwool.html


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## GypsyBush (Nov 26, 2012)

You can also check some of my SOG stuff by clicking on the potleaf.  Then scroll down...


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## bongmarley7 (Nov 26, 2012)

Thanks again , you have been very helpful, here are some pic of the clones, the smaller ones are 3 weeks behind the bigger ones.


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## bongmarley7 (Nov 26, 2012)

what are the white mats used for over the clones? is that to protect the roots being exposed to the light? also, Since i rooted my clones in an EZ cloner. their is no grow medium, id like to assure that it is OK to put the roots themselves straight into the hydrocorn in the bucket?!?! i dont see why it wouldnt be ok right?

*



OVER-sized res is stable and does not require top off...

DIALED IN nutrient regimen... you must KNOW EXACTLY how your nutes behave... you may need a pH doser... 

i read this in one of your discussions....15x 3.5gal buckets...55gal res should be perfect?! and "Know how your nutes behave" well funny you say that because ive yet to understand this....my soil plants look GREAT keeping in mind that the ph in the soil fluctuates over time.

But my issue that im concerned with hydro is that , i have 5gal jugs of roots organic whole line so i must use them up!!! if i HAVE to go get a synthetic note to make hydro life easier on myself i WILL. bUt when mixing my res. i add all my nutes with the desired amount. I ph and then feed. two days late the Ph will RISE! and the ppm lower just a tad bit but not a lot.....is this going to be an issue for my hydro...i was thinking too, if i mix my nutes and wait a day i wouldnt have to add any ph up....could i get away with that or should i aways follow nute mix, ph, feed....after the first initial feeding with the soil i dilute the res back to the top with water. and feed again later in the week, just to leech out and avoid a lockup.......hope this made sense. i have an ec/ph/thermometer too.
​




*Also your the resin profile on some of the buds in the pictures are stellar!!! i see what you mean by single cola....literally take all the branches of!!!


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## Lou48 (Dec 2, 2012)

I'm a new grower with a 3ft. Hydro grow box. I have two 1" autoflower drawfs starting to grow. Should I start the 18/6 light regiment now; up to now they have recieved constant light?


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## chizle69 (Dec 3, 2012)

wilma big 4 pot systems


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## chizle69 (Dec 3, 2012)

how do i feed a wilma system useing coco how often


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## bde0001 (Dec 15, 2012)

can i use jacks blossom builder in coco?


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## yolu (Jan 7, 2013)

In the *[h=1]Hydroponics system, could we use the air atomizing nozzles to spray water containing nutrient substance ? the air atomizing nozzles is the one in this link[/h]*http://www.stspray.com/product84.html

Does any one use this kind of nozzles?


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## doniawon (Jan 7, 2013)

yolu said:


> In the *Hydroponics system, could we use the air atomizing nozzles to spray water containing nutrient substance ? the air atomizing nozzles is the one in this link
> 
> *http://www.stspray.com/product84.html
> 
> Does any one use this kind of nozzles?


probably in the aeroponics or fogponics forum?.


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## Hydromaniac7 (Jan 11, 2013)

I use the waterfarn system with bubbles 18 weeks veg, I get 25oz minimum everytime, u wanna learn from me?


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## Hydromaniac7 (Jan 11, 2013)

Mate just use hydro grow wen in veg, ec level 1.8- 2.0, then use hydro bloom when in flowering the same levels, add 7ml liquid silicone one a week and add liquid oxygen once a week 7 ml as well, keep ur ph at 7, add pk boost a couple of weeks into flowering every 7/8 days and use canna flush in the last week and empty everything and add water only till ur ec I below 0.5.


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## unlucky (Jan 19, 2013)

don't ya just love hydro, some little pics of my little hydro grow, full of uk clone only exo, food just ionic what else lol .........................


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## los11 (Jan 21, 2013)

do i just drop the seed in the rockwool cube to get started


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## unlucky (Jan 21, 2013)

los11 said:


> do i just drop the seed in the rockwool cube to get started


you can do it like that but its way better if you do it with the paper towel

<span style="color:#ff0099;"><font size="5"><span style="font-family:comic sans ms;">[video=youtube;To2DlJwErao]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=To2DlJwErao[/video]


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## BCBuddy420 (Jan 24, 2013)

Hey guys




This is to the OP or anyone, much appreciated. Alot of you guys seem to be quite knowledgeable in hydroponics whereas I am not! Never tried it




I am humbly asking for a few pointers? I have a plan design of a pvc tube system grow (have done a fair bit of homework) with net pots and a steady current, if you will, of nutrient solution pumped through and back to the rez. Once clones root sufficiently they will go straight to flowering in this setup, no veg. From experience what would be the biggest issues to watch out for? Here's what I would put to practice without any help; EC will sit around 1.0-1.4 never exceeding that. PPM will be around 800-900ish. The solution needs changing every week due to salt buildups, just like flushing my soilless medium. Water must be aerated for DO, using air stones. Solution level is kept on the cooler side and just touching the bottom of the net pots. Ok that's about what I know for now. I would like to know if there's any major issues to watch out for... kiss-ass


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## august west (Feb 9, 2013)

im not familiar with flowering as soon as clones form roots, i guess you would just have a little plant with low yield?
everything else sounds good though, my ppm are usually around 125x10 .
make a good ventilation system, i use an intake fan an exhaust fan pulling air out of the room.
what kind of medium are you using? and are you using the drip method for feeding or what?


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## august west (Feb 11, 2013)

I have no sound, is there an explanation as to why germinating in a paper towel is better than germinating in a cube? maybe so you can see exactly where the roots are and place the germinating plant in medium accordingly?


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## stonerjosh (Feb 13, 2013)

awrite a wis wonderin wit basic stuff would a need to frow 1 plant just tae try it out and if am satisfied al do a couple more nd build myself up and try new equiment n shit


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## hotrodharley (Feb 13, 2013)

stonerjosh said:


> awrite a wis wonderin wit basic stuff would a need to frow 1 plant just tae try it out and if am satisfied al do a couple more nd build myself up and try new equiment n shit


What the hell is the matter with you? Type so people who speak human languages might decipher it. Some people try so hard to sound damned dumb and many are succeeding beyond their wildest dreams.


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## Doer (Feb 19, 2013)

BCBuddy420 said:


> Hey guys
> 
> 
> 
> ...


This is what I'm doing. I'm keeping a journal of the trials. I think I have the basic requirements, pulled back from a bit over complicated.

To have a full under current dwc, pumping front to back under 1000 w hps heat is a substance to be transported out. The air stones will add hot air to the water. The light adds infared heat to everything that can't reflect it, including the air.

So, to me the basics for success are these, for a 6 +1 bucket system in a bathroom.

- water cooled light, outside reservoir, the bigger the better. 
- insulated buckets
- 3 - 5 water pumps
---filter res pump
---light res sump pump
---1000 gph main flow pump
--- 1 or 2 top flow nute pumps
- big air pump
- 1/4 hp chiller 
- filtered water, I use the bathtub for the RO among other things
- EC and pH meter
- More nitric acid than you can imagine, pH is always headed up
- 12 x 12 timer for the light
- air conditioner 8K+ in a 2" foam board box, insulated exhaust tube (cheaper than portable)
- big carbon filter, all exhausts out of bathroom thru ceiling vent
- several fans circulating at various levels-


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## eventy (Feb 24, 2013)

Hello,i decided to grow several seeds.the seeds sprouted and they should rather put! advise how best to grow them in the conditions of a city apartment because I decided to germinate 5 seeds,thinking that not all come up,and they all went up 5. how and what I need?


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## POUND TOWN (Feb 24, 2013)

Doer said:


> This is what I'm doing. I'm keeping a journal of the trials. I think I have the basic requirements, pulled back from a bit over complicated.
> 
> To have a full under current dwc, pumping front to back under 1000 w hps heat is a substance to be transported out. The air stones will add hot air to the water. The light adds infared heat to everything that can't reflect it, including the air.


After 7 full grows in mediums like soil, coco, top feed dwc and undercurrent dwc ive found that if your serious about growing that undercurrent dwc is by FAR the best option. You can produce some amazing results and the labor is MINIMAL. With a large backup res you could let your system sit for literally weeks with touching it! I just went 30 something days without even adding nutrients and the plants have been thriving and growing QUICK.
Doing dwc is worth how much faster your plants grow and undercurrent is the LEAST AMOUNT of effort assuming your not training your plants.

1800 watts
14 plants. well 13 now
RIP BLUE CHEESE
View attachment 2541299View attachment 2541297View attachment 2541298


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## dre8791 (Mar 12, 2013)

Exactly what I did and love my setup.


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## Xx1onlyxx (Mar 24, 2013)

Need tips to grow only one plant using perlite. Getting a good clone. How many lights?watering? Etc...


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## POUND TOWN (Mar 24, 2013)

Xx1onlyxx said:


> Need tips to grow only one plant using perlite. Getting a good clone. How many lights?watering? Etc...


I didn't research anything myself! Grow this one plant for me bc i cant do a google search, read an article, Etc...


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## SouthernLabs (Mar 31, 2013)

Whats up guys? im relatively new to hydroponics and id like some feedback/suggestions. Id love to imrpove. The pictures below are night pictures, my camera wont take good pics with the lights on. These girls were just flipped to 12/12 yesterday. Im running Dj short's flo, Dawg's waltz, and Chemdawg #4. Everything has been supercropped to ensure light penetration and maximum number of tops. The Flo and Dawg's Waltz tables have 8 (3 on the first slab, 2 on the second, and 3 on the third.) And the Chemdawg #4 tables have 9. (3 on each slab).Running co2, General Hyrdoponic nutrients, along with CalMag, and Diamond Nectar. And later in the flowering stages ill run a bulkening agent, like bloombastic or kool bloom. 

Large grow space, pretty big basement. 
8 1000 watt HPS between 12-18" away from my canopy, hydrofarm 3 x3's with 40 gallon reservoirs. 
Temps- 69(night)-74-78(day)
2 large inline fans, 2 large carbon filters ( for each set of 4), 8 inch ducting, Ventilation checked daily. 
3 12" oscillating fans.
Humidity- 50-60%
PH level- (checked daily) 5.8-6.2

Does anyone have any suggstions/comments?? One love. 




&#12288;


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## doniawon (Mar 31, 2013)

I love the cages/lattice you have. I have grown flo, I know she likes to grow a lot of undergrowth. Maybe clean up the bottoms of your flo to avoid larf?. Looks like a nice room good luck with this grow


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## SouthernLabs (Mar 31, 2013)

thanks for the advice, i usually prune on day 7 of flower. these ladies are on day 2.


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## Doer (Apr 3, 2013)

POUND TOWN said:


> After 7 full grows in mediums like soil, coco, top feed dwc and undercurrent dwc ive found that if your serious about growing that undercurrent dwc is by FAR the best option. You can produce some amazing results and the labor is MINIMAL. With a large backup res you could let your system sit for literally weeks with touching it! I just went 30 something days without even adding nutrients and the plants have been thriving and growing QUICK.
> Doing dwc is worth how much faster your plants grow and undercurrent is the LEAST AMOUNT of effort assuming your not training your plants.


No, I'm not training. I'm trying to get to 3 weeks of veg to get the roots in. I have gone 9 week clones, to ripe colas in about 63 days. And this was WW. She is known to fulfill in 75+days in soil.

The only thing that keeps throwing me so far, is getting goofed up and pushing to hard. The roots are everything in rdwc.

Slime and root rot spread fast in the flow, etc. I have a chiller now. 1/4 hp on 20 gals. Use use the diy Ben tea al Heis. And I'm still picking up a few with Rhizotonic foliar. All my fault, still dialing in.

So, I agree if I guard the roots by not screwing up, (pH changes to fast, high res temps, too much ppm too soon, etc then it is the fastest turnaround.

Hmmmm.....very interesting idea about a backup reservoir. I just have to figure out more floor space or !! my latest idea comes from reading this. Get one of those flat plastic ag tanks and put it under the bucket set. (find one with a pump well. Raise the bucket set with a sturdy platform.

Could work....
I have been thinking, I should add another 20 gals, somehow, since I run very conservative ppm levels (another learning curve) and do Liquid light/Saturator spray every three day.


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## henrikno7 (May 6, 2013)

hi im unsure if ive introduced myself i joined the forum a while ago and read a few posts and learned a few things i ususlly grow with canna products in soil and ive had some great results but due to the size of my growing space i decided for a general hydroponics Aquafarm,using general hydroponics feed flora series = flora grow ,flora bloom and flora micro ,i had a cutting from a friend and it seems ok the ph is at 5.6 as the grow chart says it has to be between 5.2-6.2 i check that every night but when testing the EC its at 0.9 its nearly in its third week what i was wondering was has anybody got a decent grow chart the one i have says 2.5ml/10L weeks one -two then 7ml week 3, but i was wondering can i not veg the plant longer? with 2.5ml or just follow the chart.
i was also told to only have the pump on 15 mins in every hour but its on the full 18 hours at present im using a 600w metal hallide for veg then hps for flowering the temp is ok and humidity its just this chart and a few other things i need answered even if there is a tut available on the aquafarm using the GH flora series my medium is clay pebbles any help is much appreciated


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## budolskie (May 7, 2013)

well im new to hydroponics and done a few grows in soil just lost my 3 plants to the 5o other day due to come down this week devoed but just a caution for personal use uk law is shite.....


so i have had these blueberry clones in the wilma set for 4 weeks and 4 puprle kush clones a had took of 1 my babys in soil before i flowered. i just think they should be growing a lot faster for hydroponics so im thinking about scrapping them and putting a soil back in to get sum decent smoke quick cos these dont look like keeping to me there is a thread from when i started in my sig if yous dont mind looking and telling me if its worth just scrapping and going back to soil as i can do it in that...

1st 10 pics are the hydro grow if u check my sig u will get all the reading of my res temps and ph and stuff

2nd 9 pics are done in soil that the 5o smelt out side and got them the dirty stinking cunts 

so thats why im debating to go back to soil this time round and try learning hydro in the future as that loss has fucked me a bit all my gear and that


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## annierox (May 16, 2013)

Hello,

Was hoping you guys might be able to answer my question.

Im running a hydro system.(One of these specifically http://generalhydroponics.com/site/index.php/products/systems/rainforest_series/)

I have 4 plants growing and turns out one of them is an auto.

I'm pretty sure it has started flowing, but I am not ready to flower my remaining plants yet. 

What do I do from here, remove it? If so how. Or can I just let it do it's thing and top it as needed and deal with reduced yield from it.

Thanks


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## makavelli22 (May 20, 2013)

I have tangerine dream growing that's going to its 2 and week of flowering.. My question is how long will it take before I see cola tops


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## actv420 (May 21, 2013)

im poor i made a set up with a water bottle air tube flushing tube and reg. rocks with a lil bit of this ph plant food that u mix with water ... its been a couple day my set up is made for only one clone ... its been 3days hasnt died .... just someone start schooling me on hydroponics ... what am i missing wats the purpose of flushing whats the purpose of hydroponics besides it being a self sustained contraption... im a quick learner so ill learn as i go .. jus start shooting some advise please also what is recommended soil for my 3 month og female ....


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## Staypuff702 (Jun 1, 2013)

I have a question. I have a RDWC System I built. I know the air pump runs 24/7, but does the water pump run 24/7 too? Constantly circulating the water? In advance thanks guys.


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## hydrogold (Aug 10, 2013)

This thread really helped me out. I'm using a homemade drip hydroponic bucket system with a 3 1/2 Gall res. 1st grow. Temp is 65F night - 70F day. Humidity 40-60% I use the 3 part flora nuts by GH with the formula on given on the bottle. 600 watt HPS in a cool tube. I am uncertain of the strand that I have. (eekkk! I know) My girl is in he 4th week of flowering. Being my first time, I had a few minor accidents. For example, the 2nd-3rd week of the flower stage really caught me off guard. My girl shot up so fast that in one night she grew a retarded amount in length and ended up touching my cool tube which turned a few leaves a crispy color. But she actually has recovered just fine. I've noticed that the flower on that particular shoot is still getting bigger. I refill my res with 100% strength nuts daily and usually set my pH at 7.0 because of other obligations throughout the day. By the next morning, she has consumed 1 gal of solution and my pH has fallen to 5.0 or below. (Is that normal?) The size of my buds are pretty small, about the size of a 20oz soda cap and slightly bigger in the canopy. All of my leaves are a good green color and no signs of curling. (my fan leaves are fucking huge) I just starting using Big Buds at the beginning of the flower phase she's in (week 4) and I'll be using Overdrive here in a few weeks. I was seriously scared my flowers where stunted but this forum gave me hope. I do have a question... she has roots growing from the stem just above my grow rocks. Fucking huge ones.. Is it a problem that light is getting to these roots? Her 12 hours of darkness is un interrupted.


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## WVBVDXLICdude (Aug 16, 2013)

I have a 5 gallon box 6 site hydroponic setup. im new to growing i just got my order of auto berry feminized seeds.what is the best way to go nutes wise, the setup came with 4month supply of nutes, 2grow 2flower should i even use it with these seeds?and is germinating the seeds in rockwool cubes a good way to go or no thts what i plan on doing setup came with it.What light cycle is the best for this, and ph levels.Would love the help thanks


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## biostudent (Sep 18, 2013)

What's the most basic, cheapest (but decent) hydroponic system? I saw this YouTube video where a guy built one with literally house hold items, under the cost of $40. I don't even know what kind it was, definitely not ebb&Flo.


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## Greenwhilley (Sep 18, 2013)

biostudent said:


> What's the most basic, cheapest (but decent) hydroponic system? I saw this YouTube video where a guy built one with literally house hold items, under the cost of $40. I don't even know what kind it was, definitely not ebb&Flo.


Check out this link to my DIY DWC setup, it might give you some ideas.
https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/719537-my-dwc-hydro-diy-thread.html


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## KGB1968 (Sep 27, 2013)

I have a question for you ! After I first germinate Kush seeds & place in 3.5 inch web baskets with 1.0 inch square Rockwool cubes & crotone rocks, with root placed in the down position; should I run water pump at all times during the 18 hour light cycle & 6 hour dark cycle; or how long total hours ? My grow is a combination top drip & deep water culture in 27 gallon plastic tubs & they have 13 gallon of water in each tub. There will be a total of 2 tubs with 9 Kush plants in each container; 18 in all. It says on package of rock wool not to over water ? This is my 1st attempt at growing hydroponics & I can't locate that answer in any of my books or on the WWW. thank you very much in advance  kgb1968


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## KGB1968 (Oct 3, 2013)

Thank you very much Ganja Smoker  It looks good !


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## RedCarpetMatches (Nov 2, 2013)

Hello DWC ladies n gents. Firstly, I'd like to say every Hydro bud I've had has f'd me up pretty good. I've tried the ol' tote n bubblers, flow set ups, and bubble this and that, whatever. Switched to organics and never looked back...until now. 

Couple of ?s
1) Why does dro taste like Newports or "crispy"?
2) Is this grow style obsolete due to coco?
3) Is it possible to have an explosive DWC set up with a more organic taste?
4) Can it be done with very hard water?

I'll rep all over that ass for GOOD answers.


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## PetFlora (Nov 3, 2013)

I have gotten consistent thumbs up for great flavor + great high

Could be the nutes are high quality and properly balanced for mj... could be my high performance flooming rez... could be I have a green thumb

Drop by if curious, ~ 4 weeks to harvest


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## bird mcbride (Nov 3, 2013)

Calcium and magnesium dissolved in *water* are the two *most* common minerals 
that make *water* "*hard*."


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## bird mcbride (Nov 3, 2013)

The taste, no matter how it's grown is determined from the start of the chop to the finish of the cure. All my weed comes out sweet and goes down smooth. The rhino gives a bit of a kick when you exhale it, but still goes down smooth. I warn people about the rhino because even a half hoot kicks you pretty good on the way out.


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## RedCarpetMatches (Nov 3, 2013)

PetFlora said:


> I have gotten consistent thumbs up for great flavor + great high
> 
> Could be the nutes are high quality and properly balanced for mj... could be my high performance flooming rez... could be I have a green thumb
> 
> Drop by if curious, ~ 4 weeks to harvest


Would you put it up against some rich God given earthy bud?


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## PetFlora (Nov 3, 2013)

I rely on the reports of others who have long experience smoking both soil and hydro grown. Either way can be done well, or poorly



RedCarpetMatches said:


> Would you put it up against some rich God given earthy bud?


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## Caspernode (Nov 5, 2013)

well, generally speaking, if i was to convert my setup, do you think it would be worth redoing the setup? i have a good indoor soil setup. but what does hydro benefit the most? yeild? potency? grow speed? smoking qualitys?


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## budolskie (Nov 5, 2013)

ive grew in soil all my times except one when i tried the wilma big 4 and it seemed to be a lot more hassle then it was worth, i was getting nute problems and everything a couple my m8s also tried and went back to soil.... most the stuff iv seen done by hydro is not as good as ive seen in soil and read alot about hydro grow not tasting as good as soil.. 

hydro is more work for a bigger yeild of shitter green IMO ok for making money i suppose but not if u wana smoke your self


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## Idontevensmoke (Nov 13, 2013)

that's what I've heard too... also heard that hempy buckets are the best way to transition from soil to hydro, so figured it couldn't hurt to try once with a couple of plants. My question is can I use my regular water-soluble non-organic nutrients for a hydro DTW grow? I've read somewhere that it's not a good idea because what I'm using right now (MG bloom formula, until I get some money) is what I had for my soil grows with some Epsom Plus. Thinking of using SuperBloom but wondering if I need to spend the next of my limited cash flow on hydroponic nutrients?


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## jpbeach28 (Nov 24, 2013)

It will just all depend as far as the yield thing. If you are growing outside in soil obviously you will get bigger yields every time as no light you will ever buy will ever compare to the sun. Escpecially if your in the dirt. No hydro setup anywhere will ever give you a bigger plant (bigger yield). Indoors in the same size pots like a 5gal dwc vs. 5gal of soil You will get bigger in hydro b/c the roots are getting exactly what they want as far as nutes and air and aren't wasting time searching for it like in soil. Hydro would typically win in THC% with same strain as outdoor. Outdoor does usually taste better. You can get a very simple to operate hydro system or as high maintenace as you wanna go. Outdoors your at the mercy of the elements and bugs and oh yeah being seen if that matters to ya. They both have pros and they both have cons.


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## hellmutt bones (Nov 30, 2013)

newtogrowneedhelp said:


> Hi, I would like some opinions on using hydroponics versus other systems. What I had in mind is using something like this here: http://www.stealthhydroponics.com/product.php?xProd=713 . I know this is an expensive way to start but do you think I would be able to produce 4-8 oz per plant using this system? Is there anything else I would need besides the clones to start this? Would you have a rough idea of an electric bill with just this system? Would I be able to harvest within 3 months? I would like to start with a good strain with high yield potential that can be done start to finish in 3 months. Your thoughts and ideas are very much appreciated.


Wow! Thats some industrial shit there ur really gonna grow some shit there!


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## aksooby (Jan 7, 2014)

quick question.. For a 4x4 flood and drain set up . can i use 3 gallon plastic pot, throw in my 6x6 rock wool cube and fill it with clay pebbles?


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## ultrabob (Jan 12, 2014)

I don't see why not...as long as your medium can still absorb nutrients ..


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## IGROWLED (Jan 27, 2014)

Hydroponics newbie here, Without reading thousands of posts I am wondering if any of the old-pro's have any nutrient recommendations for a LED+AERO+TENT Combo? I have experimented with hydro/aero before and was mildly successful but have now invested in a full scale hydro setup http://www.evolutiongrowled.com/evolution-led-plant-grow-tent-enclosure-kits.html I choose the mid-size Maximum Yield kit but choose to include a 60-site rail system as well as exchanging the included Quad2 led grow light for the Smart Space Led System http://www.evolutiongrowled.com/smart-space-led-grow-light-system.html I contacted the company and asked about this possible combination and was told it would be no problem if I paid the difference in the components costs! I was pretty surprised they were willing to make this custom package for me and am expecting Awesome results! Anyways, My question is what Nutrient would you recommend for this setup? When I experimented with hydro years ago I used the three part General Hydroponics nutes, But I wonder if there isnt a better suited nutrient that will give me better yields. I did some research and came across many suggestions (obviously) But many suggest the GH line for its balance of effectiveness and cost. I would like the best performance I can get regardless of cost (within reason) But I dont want to spend a fortune on another brand if it doesnt really perform and better. I know everyone has an opinion but I am more interested in the opinion of a seasoned grower who has used a LED+HYDRO+TENT combination. So to sum it up, LED+HYDRO+TENT = What Nutrient line? Any advice would be appreciated as I would rather invest in the best possible nutrient from the start instead of spending a ton of money and time experimenting with different brands.


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## IGROWLED (Jan 27, 2014)

I have also heard that about hydro grown having less flavor. I wonder if making a soil tea that is finely filtered and added to the reservoir would impart some added flavor? I have no doubt someone has toyed with this idea, I wonder what the results were! Ill have to look that up and see whats out there results wise. On the other hand though I would assume the nutrient manufacturers have already taken whatever steps possible to add what flavor can be retained by the plants.


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## IGROWLED (Jan 27, 2014)

However another possibility that just hit me writing that last post about a adding flavor to hydroponic grown plants. I wonder if maybe it would be possible to simply plant the hydro-grown plants in soil for the last week or so to take on some flavor. It would be tedious trying to get the root structure planted properly and intact, But not impossible!


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## TripleMindedGee5150 (Jan 31, 2014)

I did a Google search of "my pH water smells like baby poop " And I got a lot of baby poop science and one ladie's discussion of new sour odors coming from her snatch !? Wtf

So I treated my distilled water a few times. I check every time I water and adjust accordingly. Yesterday I opens the jug and it smelled like old as baby formula, as if it's been sitting out rotting. Baby poop.

Is that normal? Don't know if I want to use it. Can't imagine I want the smell , flavor to transfer.


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## Spanky84 (Jan 31, 2014)

So, I have 2 plants in a DWC bucket. One is doing fine, other has, I have recently noticed, sterted having new leaves curl downward at the edges (I think it's called the claw). They are dark green color with area where they curve tinted almost purplish. 

They are almost 4 weeks old, under CFL-s, res temps are at about 60 to 65, pH is in 5,5 to 6,5 range. EC is about 800 uS (3/4 recomended dose for advanced hydroponics dutch formula nutes). I suspect some kind of nute burn (nitrogen toxicity) and will be giving that plant new home in its own bucket with nutes toned down to perhaps 600. I was wondering if you guys have any thoughts on other possible problems I should consider that cause similar symptoms.


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## PetFlora (Feb 1, 2014)

Combining esoteric energy sources (read not taught in schools) I put together what I call a *High Performance Rez*

It combines a ~ 400 gph pump circulating the nutes 24/7. The nutes pass through 2 magnets in repulse, then splash over a colander filled with polished ornamental rock, which sits above the water line. The purpose is to duplicate the chi (measurable energy) that fast moving water cascading down a stream creates. 

A small (160 gph) pump feeds the plants every 45 minutes during lights on; 1:45 during lights off. 

Both pumps sit on 4" air stones mostly to keep them from floating, creating massive DO.

Pic that shows the 2 clones on the drain table were taken 12/25~


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## IGROWLED (Feb 3, 2014)

Spanky84 said:


> So, I have 2 plants in a DWC bucket. One is doing fine, other has, I have recently noticed, sterted having new leaves curl downward at the edges (I think it's called the claw). They are dark green color with area where they curve tinted almost purplish.
> 
> They are almost 4 weeks old, under CFL-s, res temps are at about 60 to 65, pH is in 5,5 to 6,5 range. EC is about 800 uS (3/4 recomended dose for advanced hydroponics dutch formula nutes). I suspect some kind of nute burn (nitrogen toxicity) and will be giving that plant new home in its own bucket with nutes toned down to perhaps 600. I was wondering if you guys have any thoughts on other possible problems I should consider that cause similar symptoms.


 Im a relative newbie when it comes to hydro, With limited knowledge in the area fyi. Just getting ready to start my first full scale hydro-grow so im still learning as I go. I did notice though that you didnt specify how frequently you are changing the reservoir? It could be as simple as your nutrients being out of balance if the res. isnt changed frequently enough. I could be way-off, Like I said im pretty new to hydro but that would be the first thing that i would want to check. I apologize if this wasnt helpful, Just didnt seem like you were getting answer from anyone else so far. I asked a question about nute brand preference for a led+hydro setup about a week ago and nobody has responded, So I thought I would try to give you a possible answer. I also remember someone telling me that a copper deficiency can cause leaves to turn purple and curl near the edges, If that helps at all.


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## Spanky84 (Feb 3, 2014)

Thanx 

I'm changing my res every 7 days so that shouldn't be a problem. 
I have put my plants in separate buckets yesterday and given the "sick" one a bit less nutes. Now it has only 600 uS while the other one gets 800 again. I hope I'll be seing positive changes by tomorrow...


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## IGROWLED (Feb 3, 2014)

Spanky84 said:


> Thanx
> 
> I'm changing my res every 7 days so that shouldn't be a problem.
> I have put my plants in separate buckets yesterday and given the "sick" one a bit less nutes. Now it has only 600 uS while the other one gets 800 again. I hope I'll be seing positive changes by tomorrow...



Spanky84, I did a little looking to find a remedy to your current issue with the color change and curling of the leaves. I did come across an article here on rollitup that might be of interest. Hope this helps if the problem is not yet under control. Try reading this and see if it applies. https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/413859-curling-purple-red-stems-purple.html

Hope you get it figured out before things take a turn for the worst. Ill keep an ear out for other solutions unless I see a post saying youve got it under control. Good luck.


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## IGROWLED (Feb 3, 2014)

Regarding res changes I again am far from a hydro expert but I would think a change every 7 days is more than adequate. I would think changing any more frequently would simply be a waste of nutrients.


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## IGROWLED (Feb 3, 2014)

Spanky84, Came across this a minute ago and thought it was worth posting. Not sure it will answer your question but is handy.

View attachment 2983827


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## Spanky84 (Feb 4, 2014)

Yep, looks like too much nitrogen.


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## IGROWLED (Feb 4, 2014)

Glad to hear you identified the problem, So cutting back the nutes on that plant like you did should rectify the problem. Hopefully the damage isnt severe and it will spring right back.


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## IGROWLED (Feb 4, 2014)

Glad to hear you identified the problem, So cutting back the nutes on that plant like you did should rectify the problem. Hopefully the damage isnt severe and it will spring right back.


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## Spanky84 (Feb 6, 2014)

She is at 500 uS and is showing healthy new growth already.


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## IGROWLED (Feb 6, 2014)

Congrats, Youre legitimately 1 step closer to being a Pro-Grower. Glad to hear everything is working out. We all know how crushing it can be to lose a plant, Especially if the strain is hard to come by.


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## IGROWLED (Feb 6, 2014)

Its odd though that both plants were in the same dwc system and only 1 fell ill. Were they both the same strain? If not then that would explain it as different strains are more/less susceptible to various factors.


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## Spanky84 (Feb 6, 2014)

Nope, very different strains. 

I was planing on separating them once they got a bit bigger, but it turned out one plant was sensitive even to lower then recomended nute concentrations I fed my plants. Whats suprising is that it is the plant that by comon knowlidge is a more heavy feeding strain.


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## IGROWLED (Feb 6, 2014)

Spanky84 said:


> Nope, very different strains.
> 
> I was planing on separating them once they got a bit bigger, but it turned out one plant was sensitive even to lower then recomended nute concentrations I fed my plants. Whats suprising is that it is the plant that by comon knowlidge is a more heavy feeding strain.


Keep in mind there is always the chance you didnt receive the strain you expected. With clones/cuttings its notoriously difficult to get true strains a lot of the time. And even with seeds its not always a guarantee, Especially if its not from a reputable supplier. I had ordered some beans of a specific strain once and it was clearly the wrong strain, I had ordered from nirvana and they were really cool about making it right. Didnt change the fact that I wasted effort growing a strain I didnt want in the first place.


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## IGROWLED (Feb 6, 2014)

Sometimes they are just finicky though. A while back I was growing a pre-86 blueberry strain and was having a hell of a time feeding it, It just didnt seem to be doing well at all. I tried adjusting nutrients, lighting, etc. and just couldnt get it to grow well. At the time I had gone a bit overboard and had approx 10 strains going (way too many to grow right) I ultimately decided to thin down the strains and regrettably the pre-86 was one of them. My little bro ended up snatching the 2 plants i had growing of it to see if he would have any better luck. He immediately began triple dosing the nutes! I told him he was nuts and would surely kill them, without a doubt. A week or so went by before we spoke again, And again I stressed to him that they would die if he kept it up. Long story short by some fluke he actually managed to crop them both out quite successfully! Not sure how as it defied everything I knew and had been told about the strain, And im quite sure If i had tried that it would have been disastrous. Just because we think we have something figured out, Doesnt mean we are right!


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## Spanky84 (Feb 8, 2014)

What are the ideal temps for hydro and are they different form soil techniques? My temperature sensor shows 31C (87.8F) (goes down to about 28C (82,4F) when I make a little tin foil roof above it so its not directly exposed to the light). From what I understand that is a bit high for soil, but since my plants can take as much water as they need from the DWC bucket, am I OK, or should I be investing in some more fans?

At the moment I have a 105 m3/h intake fan blowing at the plants and a 300 m3/h exaust fan pulling the air through a carbon filter, through a cool tube cooling my 400W HPS and out of my 1 square meter box.


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## IGROWLED (Feb 9, 2014)

Spanky84 said:


> What are the ideal temps for hydro and are they different form soil techniques? My temperature sensor shows 31C (87.8F) (goes down to about 28C (82,4F) when I make a little tin foil roof above it so its not directly exposed to the light). From what I understand that is a bit high for soil, but since my plants can take as much water as they need from the DWC bucket, am I OK, or should I be investing in some more fans?
> 
> At the moment I have a 105 m3/h intake fan blowing at the plants and a 300 m3/h exaust fan pulling the air through a carbon filter, through a cool tube cooling my 400W HPS and out of my 1 square meter box.


Again not a hydro expert, But I believe the "Sweet spot" is 65-68F. Any warmer and you will be battling with bacteria in the reservoir. Also at temps over 70F the nutrient solution in the reservoir will absorb/hold less oxygen as temps increase. At 68F you have the most oxygen content as well as the lowest risk of bacteria and mold. Also fyi, Your reservoir should not be exposed to direct light as this will not only affect temps but encourage bacteria and algae growth. 

To clarify what are your res temps and what are the room temps?


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## IGROWLED (Feb 9, 2014)

If your res is close to 90 degrees than your grow room must be Scorching! That or your pump is way wayyy overheating the res.


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## Spanky84 (Feb 10, 2014)

Room temps. Res temps are at 16 to 19 C (60 to 66 F), well hiden from the lights.


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## IGROWLED (Feb 10, 2014)

Sounds like you have it dialed in, Res temp sounds great. Might be beneficial if you can get the overall grow temp down though. Personally I aim for around 72 degrees, But anywhere from 70 to 80 is ok. Those running co2 can get away with slightly higher temps. If you can drop your temp 10 degrees you will see better growth overall.


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## Spanky84 (Feb 11, 2014)

Yes. Now I just need to figure out the best way to do it 

I could add another 300m3/h intake but that will create a positive preasure and make smells very hard to controll. Then I could make that another exaust, but that would take another carbon filter and those things cost...


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## TripleMindedGee5150 (Feb 11, 2014)

The little babies are looking pretty good. Using botanicare coco and I've only been giving distilled water. I was pH sowing it to 5.9-6 but noticed a leaf tip burn after a couple days. Stopped it and just been giving water. They look pretty healthy. 

My temps hover around 75-83 and humidity is constantly 32% . I have 162w of cfl w/ 6500/2700 ratio 4:1 at this point. My gut has been telling me not to feed them yet.


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## Djreed57 (Feb 12, 2014)

Hey all I wouldn't say I am a beginner as I have had many successful grows but still have my issues here and there as once you think you got it down another issue comes up. How much would airstones help in my ebb and flow setups. would you put it in the reservoir or the controller unit that the res water feeds into? Anyone not familiar with the setup the nutrients go from my 50 gallon res to a controller unit which then floods and drains all the buckets on timers from there. Thank you all for any advice.


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## Spanky84 (Feb 12, 2014)

Tripple, embryonal leaves still look full of food, so I wouldn't be feeding it yet. When they begin dying should be the right time.


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## IGROWLED (Feb 12, 2014)

Spanky84 said:


> Yes. Now I just need to figure out the best way to do it
> 
> I could add another 300m3/h intake but that will create a positive preasure and make smells very hard to controll. Then I could make that another exaust, but that would take another carbon filter and those things cost...


Well you could switch to led and your heat issue would be over!  Otherwise you might be able to use a y connector and push another exhaust fan through the existing filter. if your existing filter cant handle the extra volume i can walk you through the steps to make a high capacity diy carbon filter for around $30


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## IGROWLED (Feb 12, 2014)

Djreed57 said:


> Hey all I wouldn't say I am a beginner as I have had many successful grows but still have my issues here and there as once you think you got it down another issue comes up. How much would airstones help in my ebb and flow setups. would you put it in the reservoir or the controller unit that the res water feeds into? Anyone not familiar with the setup the nutrients go from my 50 gallon res to a controller unit which then floods and drains all the buckets on timers from there. Thank you all for any advice.


The more you can oxygenate the better. It would be best to include the stones in the reservoir, if incorporated into the controller unit airstones might cause issues. if it were me I would definitely be adding oxygen to the res. The higher the oxygen saturation the better the system will perform. Hope that helps Djreed57


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## IGROWLED (Feb 12, 2014)

As far as heat issues go i run one of these 120w leds http://www.evolutiongrowled.com/evolution-basic-led-grow-lights.html in my 18 cf. clone/veg closet with a minimal 50 cfm exhaust fan and i have no trouble maintaining 70F at all. in fact i actually had to add a small cfl to run at night since the closet is on an exterior wall and weve been having a bad cold snap the last few weeks. a while back outside temps dropped into the single digits and i noticed even with the led running my cab was dipping below 60 at night. i dont like my grow going under 60F until the last week of flowering.


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## IGROWLED (Feb 12, 2014)

it definitely is beneficial to have a wider temp swing toward the end of flowering, Makes a substantial difference in resin production.


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## Djreed57 (Feb 12, 2014)

yes igrowled ty very much. while your having fun giving answers and I have your attention ill pick your brain a little more. I use the technaflora nutrients and the only issue ive had is getting the babies to grow in the beginning 50 percent of the time. germinating I am atleast average 90 percent successful now and then into small rockwool cubes into a lil humidone under a 400 watt mh. Here I have issues and it may just be now because this closet is in an open room where temp is prolly 68 at best due to being basement and cold outside. once I see root poke threw 2x2 rockwool I put into 2 gallon buckets of grow rocks and feed no nutrients ppm of tap water filtered is around 200 and flooded 3 times a day for 15 mins and light on 20 hrs. water is 65 degrees the lil guys jut don't want to proceed but whenever I put them into the next room a tent which is 1000 watt hps and can get up to 82 for later vegging and they start to grow like normal. I have three rooms veg 1 veg2 and flower1 so the veg1 I need in order to keep a constant harvest every month. ph is always in right range, anything look off or any suggestions for veg1. I just gave the reservoir nutrients and ppm is now 800 and 24 hours later it was down to 700 telling me that they were hungry correct? So hoping that this strain just was lacking food which stunted them? Thanks again RIU!


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## Djreed57 (Feb 12, 2014)

I just see ppl vegging for 2 weeks and having 10" plants already with 5 internodes and that's what I need so I can snip It at the top and let it veg another 1-2 weeks in veg2 then into flower and constant repeat but right now its holding me up. veg 1 is 3x4 closet 400 mh, veg2 is 5x5 tent 1000 watt hps and flower is 6x12 2-1000 watt hps.


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## Spanky84 (Feb 13, 2014)

IGROWLED said:


> Well you could switch to led and your heat issue would be over!  Otherwise you might be able to use a y connector and push another exhaust fan through the existing filter. if your existing filter cant handle the extra volume i can walk you through the steps to make a high capacity diy carbon filter for around $30


If you can write a short tutorial, that would probably be most helpful.


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## IGROWLED (Feb 13, 2014)

Sorry for the absence the last two days, Had to call in sick due to an extreme migraine and slept all day. It happens every so often unfortunately, And of course i then had to put in some extra hours to get caught back up at work. Anyways im here now and will do my best to answer both of your questions.


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## IGROWLED (Feb 13, 2014)

Spanky84

There are countless ways to improvise a carbon filter, Some more elaborate than others. 

A crude and cheap method requires a coffee can, a 8" to 6" sheet metal reducer, a 12" x 24" piece of small mesh screen (hardware cloth), a piece of filter floss and panty hose, duct tape, and a few large zip-ties. The diagram is pretty self explanatory.
Hope this is helpful.


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## Spanky84 (Feb 14, 2014)

Thank you!


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## bigdreamz (Feb 17, 2014)

flush every 2 weeks no more no less


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## IGROWLED (Feb 17, 2014)

Djreed57 said:


> I just see ppl vegging for 2 weeks and having 10" plants already with 5 internodes and that's what I need so I can snip It at the top and let it veg another 1-2 weeks in veg2 then into flower and constant repeat but right now its holding me up. veg 1 is 3x4 closet 400 mh, veg2 is 5x5 tent 1000 watt hps and flower is 6x12 2-1000 watt hps.


One obvious thing that jumps out at me is temp. I would consider trying a seedling warming mat to encourage faster growth. They can be purchased online or at any garden supply shop for a reasonable price and do usually make a noticeable difference. Also remember the strain plays a part in growth rates. Adding a seedling mat will make difference and I would suggest letting the babies spend a few more days under the dome. You have to realize it is a big shock for a baby plant to make the transition from the insulated high humidity dome to the open air environment of the veg room. Giving them a few more days to gain strength might make all of the difference and leave you hardier and faster growing plants. Hope that helps.


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## Djreed57 (Feb 17, 2014)

Yeah that is interesting I will keep them in dome longer but I usually transplant when the root pokes through the rockwool you think wait even longer than that? also the warming pads get those for under two gallon buckets? you think it makes a difference? prolly will considering concrete is cold. thanks


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## budolskie (Feb 18, 2014)

igrowled i dont even use a dome for my cuts and ii think it helps as they already rooting in my veg room enviroment which stops that shock!! 

i made a diy cloner for about £3 for 10 clones a time i now have 4 and an air pump with 4 lines so i can do 40 at a time if needs be.....

heres a few pics of them about 4 days and they packed with roots


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## IGROWLED (Feb 19, 2014)

budolskie said:


> igrowled i dont even use a dome for my cuts and ii think it helps as they already rooting in my veg room enviroment which stops that shock!!
> 
> i made a diy cloner for about £3 for 10 clones a time i now have 4 and an air pump with 4 lines so i can do 40 at a time if needs be.....
> 
> heres a few pics of them about 4 days and they packed with roots


Nice, I myself dont always use a humi-dome when taking cuttings in favor of frequent misting. However if you read Djreed57's earlier post he said he IS using a dome, as such the plants are going to experience some degree of shock when transitioning. I was simply suggesting he extend the clones time to recoup before making the move to the veg area. Everyone has their own respective method and I believe Djreed57 was seeking advice on improving his method, Not using another method altogether. But youre definitely right, open-air cloning with a cloner is always another option.


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## budolskie (Feb 19, 2014)

Ii ano av tried a few ways of cloning and found this is my best and makes better clones then people give out round this place... I was just sharing my way as found it very cheap and effective and can plant them into anything after.. I am just at a soil grower at the moment but would like to try hydro 1 day


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## IGROWLED (Feb 19, 2014)

Djreed57 said:


> Yeah that is interesting I will keep them in dome longer but I usually transplant when the root pokes through the rockwool you think wait even longer than that? also the warming pads get those for under two gallon buckets? you think it makes a difference? prolly will considering concrete is cold. thanks


As far as the heat mat goes it definitely would be beneficial if your containers are sitting directly on a cold cement slab. Something else I would suggest is elevating the containers above the cement atleaat a few inches, Maybe on a layer or two of plywood to help insulate the containers. Cold will definitely hinder growth, Which is why the heat mats are so useful and commonly used. Regardless of the heat mats I would definitely make an effort to protect the plants from that cold cement slab, Im betting you will see an almost immediate gain in growth. And as far as round heat mats go im sure they exist but have idea where to get them. However this could be a good option http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfmc=3578+3743+24992&pcatid=24992 try the 15w.
hope that helps.


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## IGROWLED (Feb 19, 2014)

budolskie said:


> Ii ano av tried a few ways of cloning and found this is my best and makes better clones then people give out round this place... I was just sharing my way as found it very cheap and effective and can plant them into anything after.. I am just at a soil grower at the moment but would like to try hydro 1 day


Absolutely, Once you get a cloner dialed they can be very effective.


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## budolskie (Feb 19, 2014)

I only really use the 1 just fir myself and a few m8s as then we do no what we are getting as to buying any old strain named as summit good and barely even rooted


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## IGROWLED (Feb 19, 2014)

Djreed57 said:


> Yeah that is interesting I will keep them in dome longer but I usually transplant when the root pokes through the rockwool you think wait even longer than that? also the warming pads get those for under two gallon buckets? you think it makes a difference? prolly will considering concrete is cold. thanks


As far as the roots showing through the rockwool cubes goes it shouldnt be an issue for an extra day or two, As long as they stay moist and dont start turning green from light exposure. But you might want to consider getting some 4" cubes so the plants can develop a more substantial and hardy root structure. But really im thinking temperature is you primary issue.


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## iTrakRastaFred (Mar 6, 2014)

go box starter kit


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## hilltops (Mar 7, 2014)

What is the general consensus on how often to water during veg using recirculating drip system?

My medium is 4" rockwool in hydroton medium. Also, hydroton balls over rockwall cube pieces as medium?

Water at night?

Thanks fellow humans


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## dregrowshydro2014 (Apr 25, 2014)

How do you flush it? 

Allie and Dre


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## Deusracing (May 27, 2014)

Heres my lil DWC Most expensive one out there LMAO


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## Deusracing (May 27, 2014)




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## francy420 (Sep 2, 2014)

So What up blades. Kind of new to hydro. third full run through. I run a 6 bucket rdwc system I built myself. Cycles the water ten times an hour. Good flow and lots of dissolved oxygen Well a week or so ago the ac went out and water got up to like 85 degrees for a few days. fuck I know way to hot. I got problem worked out and now keep it around 75-78 still a tad high, but best I can do in the summer without a chiller. Anyhow I nioticed some slow growth during all this, but nothing too alarming. Oh yeah ph got way high with the hot water. So now I have somewhat brown roots, but not bad, and no slime, but the plants are all wilted and yellowing from the bottom up. The new growth since new rez looks good not great, but color is on point, however the rest keeps getting worse. I am worried that by the end of the day tomorrow I will be past the point of no return. I run canna nutes with Rizotonic, and canna added. Room is about 80 degrees in the summer, but supplement with co2. I have been growing for over 10 years just not in hydro for long. Any suggestions?


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## francy420 (Sep 2, 2014)

So What up blades. Kind of new to hydro. third full run through. I run a 6 bucket rdwc system I built myself. Cycles the water ten times an hour. Good flow and lots of dissolved oxygen Well a week or so ago the ac went out and water got up to like 85 degrees for a few days. fuck I know way to hot. I got problem worked out and now keep it around 75-78 still a tad high, but best I can do in the summer without a chiller. Anyhow I nioticed some slow growth during all this, but nothing too alarming. Oh yeah ph got way high with the hot water. So now I have somewhat brown roots, but not bad, and no slime, but the plants are all wilted and yellowing from the bottom up. The new growth since new rez looks good not great, but color is on point, however the rest keeps getting worse. I am worried that by the end of the day tomorrow I will be past the point of no return. I run canna nutes with Rizotonic, and canna added. Room is about 80 degrees in the summer, but supplement with co2. I have been growing for over 10 years just not in hydro for long. Any suggestions?


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## francy420 (Sep 2, 2014)

Sorry for double post


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## Webbstone (Oct 28, 2014)

potroast said:


> All right! Hydroponics is what I know, and hydroponics is the way I grow!
> 
> This forum will be great, we can discuss anything hydro. No dirtbags here, We haul water!
> 
> ...


I'm trying to set up a sea of green perpetual harvest so I can harvest every 2 weeks I'm wanting to use 4 2x4 trays for flowering. I can't figger out the Reservoirs. I was told I need a res. for each tray because of the feedings will be different. That seems like I'll be wasting a lot of nutrients is there a way to use only 1 res. or maybe just 2 so I can flush the last 2 weeks. Was wanting to use Dutch pro and add liquid karma. But if there is a better or cheeper way I'm open to it. This is my first time to grow and I'm still figgering out my setup I think I got the rest figgered out. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!


----------



## blendy (Nov 26, 2014)

I am planning on doing a scrog 4x4 flood table using only hydroton as medium, no rockwool or RR plugs. Does anyone know where I can find info on flood and drain times for this setup? Strain recommendations also appreicated, I like a super couch lock buzz usually associated with indicas but I need something that will grow into the screen nicely.. thanks!


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## JBONESG (Feb 12, 2015)

So I changed the res 1 week in and forgot to ph the res the next day and came back and got 7...fixed it to 5.8 but this is how it left my baby...or should I be worried about something else?


----------



## Captain Greenbeard (Feb 20, 2015)

*QUESTION TO ANYONE WHO HAVE EXPERIENCE WITH COCO!!!*

Is it really necessary to water flush every time after feeding? I mean, as far as I have understood water flushing coco is that it's something that you need to do in order to remove any possible salt build-up, couldn't I theoretically feed them, wait 3 or even 4 days so the coco dries up a bit, then water flush and give them a new feed straight away after the flush? Why this waiting game for the water flush to dry up? Is there a legitimate reason to why I need to wait or is this some remnant from growing in soil, some fear of over-watering that has sneaked its way into coco growing? Isn't growing in coco a hydro technique? And as I have understood hydro vs soil is that the plants can take a lot more nutrients than what they would when grown in soil, right? Or have I misunderstood this?

I'd like for someone to clear this thing up for me if possible

*BTW* - I grow using LED's (Hans Panels, 80W) if that makes a difference

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Nursejanna (Mar 19, 2015)

potroast said:


> All right! Hydroponics is what I know, and hydroponics is the way I grow!
> 
> This forum will be great, we can discuss anything hydro. No dirtbags here, We haul water!
> 
> ...


I'm about to make the switch from soil to hydro tubes, and would appreciate any advice about how these two growing methods differ? I've only had a few turns but feel like I have a pretty good grasp on the basics. Thanks in advance!!


----------



## Doobius1 (Mar 21, 2015)

Nursejanna said:


> I'm about to make the switch from soil to hydro tubes, and would appreciate any advice about how these two growing methods differ? I've only had a few turns but feel like I have a pretty good grasp on the basics. Thanks in advance!!


When you say tubes, do you mean the fence rails? Try this thread

https://www.rollitup.org/t/harvest-a-pound-every-three-weeks.116859/


----------



## Nursejanna (Mar 21, 2015)

William Levy said:


> Growing medical marijuana hydroponically is a good way and I really like growing this way.



Could you please summarize your methodology? Curious to know about how nute requirements differ in particular (currently using sensi bloom's original formula (sans ammonocal N) thinking of switching to dyna grow because the newer sensi formulation doesn't look good to me.


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## Nursejanna (Mar 21, 2015)

Doobius1 said:


> When you say tubes, do you mean the fence rails? Try this thread
> 
> https://www.rollitup.org/t/harvest-a-pound-every-three-weeks.116859/


Thank you for the link! They are 12" water tubes on tables, my hubby's design


----------



## justjoeking (Mar 24, 2015)

Anyone have experience with biobizz nutes in aero? Im going to be running 10 5gal buckets with sprayers/misters in them on a 1 min on 4 min off timer all connected to a res.


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## USbeginnerguy (Jun 9, 2015)

justjoeking said:


> Anyone have experience with biobizz nutes in aero? Im going to be running 10 5gal buckets with sprayers/misters in them on a 1 min on 4 min off timer all connected to a res.


ive used their line in soil and absolutely loved it i am a week into my first dwc and i was told the biobizz are not all that good especially not the biobizz grow because of the thickness it can make the water nasty. I was recommended to aqua flakes A and B you only those two bottles all the way through the grow (so ive been told by very reliable sources) the guys that made these recommendations havent pointed me in the wrong direction yet so i took the advice. Good luck to you


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## justjoeking (Jun 9, 2015)

USbeginnerguy said:


> ive used their line in soil and absolutely loved it i am a week into my first dwc and i was told the biobizz are not all that good especially not the biobizz grow because of the thickness it can make the water nasty. I was recommended to aqua flakes A and B you only those two bottles all the way through the grow (so ive been told by very reliable sources) the guys that made these recommendations havent pointed me in the wrong direction yet so i took the advice. Good luck to you


I just finished 6 plants that started in organic compost at 1gal and then surrounded by either Canna brand coco or coco croutons and i got good results out of them and only fed half a liter every other day for the 1st 4 weeks and a liter every other day weeks 4 to 6 and then flushed. My first grow too, i stressed them a bit too much early on and transplanted a tad early or i think i would have pulled a little more weight. I just started 15 more in the coco croutons, i'm stretched for time so i haven't made my buckets yet but so far i'm definitely a fan of biobizz. I have heard that growers who use it are going for flavor and terpene profile as opposed to yield so that's why i chose it and so far i like the results. Very clean tasty smoke. Once i get more time on my hands and get over the primary learning curve then i hope to do some side by sides. Roots Organics and Vegamatrix are the others I'm interested at the moment. DWC and aero are the only grow styles im really interested in, maybe fogponics if it wasn't so finicky as far as keeping things unclogged and biobizz would probably be a nightmare in that type of setup. I really like the coco croutons, the aeration and drainage you get is awesome, you just have to give them a little longer in each pot size.


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## justjoeking (Jun 9, 2015)

The fish mix and alga-mic are both pretty thick too, i've noticed that if i let a small hand sprayer full of nutes sit for awhile then it collects at the bottom and you have to shake it pretty well to get it mixed up. I feel like if you have you're system recirculating enough and a gnarly bubbler/air stone in your res then it will be okay but i might just be talking out my ass lol


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## okc (Jul 14, 2015)

potroast said:


> All right! Hydroponics is what I know, and hydroponics is the way I grow!
> 
> This forum will be great, we can discuss anything hydro. No dirtbags here, We haul water!
> 
> ...


I am on day 14 using aerogarden ultra Led, just got a extra air pump but not sure where to put it. In the rear is AK47 and Bubble Gum (feminized). 


potroast said:


> All right! Hydroponics is what I know, and hydroponics is the way I grow!
> 
> This forum will be great, we can discuss anything hydro. No dirtbags here, We haul water!
> 
> ...


----------



## okc (Jul 16, 2015)

okc said:


> I am on day 14 using aerogarden ultra Led, just got a extra air pump but not sure where to put it. In the rear is AK47 and Bubble Gum (feminized).



Any help? ? Any comments? ?


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## Newgreenthumb2 (Sep 6, 2015)

@potroast hey man I'm currently working with dirt atmo bur am pulling in the next month an have purchased a lil drip system wat you think would be the best medium an you were talking about the clay balls or growing rocks been not so good


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## Cohnphone (Sep 12, 2015)

potroast said:


> All right! Hydroponics is what I know, and hydroponics is the way I grow!
> 
> This forum will be great, we can discuss anything hydro. No dirtbags here, We haul water!
> 
> ...


Is your favorite grow shop on this Hydroponic shop directory ? - http://growhero.com/


----------



## okc (Sep 12, 2015)

Cohnphone said:


> Is your favorite grow shop on this Hydroponic shop directory ? - http://growhero.com/


Day 71 and tomorrow I start to harvest. Tricombs are milky on the AK47 but the Bubble Gum are still clear, may one more week on that one.


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## budolskie (Sep 14, 2015)

Starting to d.i.y nft all idea welcome 

My grow area is 3x3ft an 2 meter high,
I plan on 2 plants each tube or would 3 be ok


----------



## hotrodharley (Sep 14, 2015)

budolskie said:


> Starting to d.i.y nft all idea welcome View attachment 3499632
> 
> My grow area is 3x3ft an 2 meter high,
> I plan on 2 plants each tube or would 3 be ok


Stick to 2 per line.


----------



## budolskie (Sep 14, 2015)

Thanks man, il keep posting update as I go on and get further on with it as time is ticking for Xmas harvest


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## budolskie (Sep 14, 2015)

Move tubes closer or leave them there so each plant has a 40cm square to grow into, or a scrog


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## budolskie (Sep 16, 2015)

Well so I having 2 plants per tube and 4 lines going to each tube from res the white scribble on tub is where I think I want them or could I move the lower net pot a irrigation lines up a little


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## budolskie (Sep 18, 2015)

Here I is today


----------



## peter berger (Sep 18, 2015)

What do you guys think about flo ngro buckets. Are they worth the money, or should I make one myself?


----------



## fandango (Oct 3, 2015)

Widow Maker said:


> I think water is better but soil taste better.


You sure can pick up your B12 eating dirt


----------



## fandango (Oct 3, 2015)

peter berger said:


> What do you guys think about flo ngro buckets. Are they worth the money, or should I make one myself?


have you a picture of the flo n gro?


----------



## peter berger (Oct 3, 2015)

fandango said:


> have you a picture of the flo n gro?/QUOTE]
> I decided to just do soil. I am used to it and dont want to take a chance. Knowing me i would fuck it up


----------



## fandango (Oct 3, 2015)

the water farm kit(big size)would be fun will one fit in your space next to the soil grow?


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## OGAerogardener1990 (Oct 6, 2015)

Enigma said:


> Get the best of both worlds.. Mothers in soil.. daughters in hydro!


Thats what im planning I have a 59 day old bb blue cheese in aero
And im germing a blue dream for soil. (Mother)


----------



## OGAerogardener1990 (Oct 7, 2015)

My low budget perpetual harvest


----------



## Kamododemon (Oct 21, 2015)

Having problems with brown roots. 
Flushing now. Rez has been thoroughly cleaned. But how do I make sure it is out of my roots


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## OGAerogardener1990 (Oct 21, 2015)

Keep feeding it pure water, and stop messing with the roots, the only time I know what my roots look like is after I harvest


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## OGAerogardener1990 (Oct 21, 2015)

You should not know what the root zone looks like, the environment needs to be personal


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## Kamododemon (Oct 21, 2015)

OGAerogardener1990 said:


> Keep feeding it pure water, and stop messing with the roots, the only time I know what my roots look like is after I harvest


I pulled them to check the roots due to the leafs being twice as bad as this morning.


----------



## Bron-Y-Aur Stomp (Oct 25, 2015)

How important is it to everyone to use a PPM meter? Ive never bothered with it, even my PH tests were done with Hagen test tubes, but Im thinking about getting a PPM tester, its from Amazon, apparently though its accuracy can be off by 10%, Does this seem important? Ive had great grows not even testing the PPM, but for $20 I figured id give it a shot.


----------



## Bron-Y-Aur Stomp (Oct 25, 2015)

Also any tips on Aeroponics? Ive tried both the Red micro sprayers and the little spinners, with the spinners i found the spinner stopped spinning, and the red misters would lean one way and only shoot water out one direction. I seen what seems like maybe a simpler more effective way just using a little hose and poking holes in it. This is going to be my first Airoponics grow as Ive always done Flood n Drain.


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## Bron-Y-Aur Stomp (Oct 25, 2015)

HardTimez said:


> I dont think anybody should BUY a hydroponics system, there is one big thing about growing is to keep it one the LOW  now why would you go an buy a system, maybe the cops keep an eye on that place...or maybe he keeps a list ? even if you pay with cash...do you think he has a pen handy to write down your plate number? hmm i love the hardware store, plus you look prof. buying there too  the ladies like a man who is a proffesional  just build your own stuff if u smoke weed you have an imagination


Yea I agree, I buy some stuff from Amazon and get it shipped to another address, but the systems are incredibly easy to build and cheap, these 300 - 500 price tags is criminal


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## Gibbz2.0 (Nov 4, 2015)

OK so here's my dealio...I have an 8port manifold with a 330gph adjustable statuary pump. I plan to do a drip system to each of my 1.5" rockwool cubes then when they get bigger do a flood and drain system. I have the pump the manifold the piping for in between and 1/4" hosing to hook up my manifold to my drippers. But what size drippers do I hook up to? .5gph 1.0gph or 2.0gph?


----------



## Skunk Baxter (Nov 29, 2015)

HardTimez said:


> I dont think anybody should BUY a hydroponics system, there is one big thing about growing is to keep it one the LOW  now why would you go an buy a system, maybe the cops keep an eye on that place...or maybe he keeps a list ? even if you pay with cash...do you think he has a pen handy to write down your plate number? hmm i love the hardware store, plus you look prof. buying there too  the ladies like a man who is a proffesional  just build your own stuff if u smoke weed you have an imagination


How many weeks do you think a grow shop would stay in business if they turned their customers in to the police? What possible reason do they have?

And as for police staking out a grow shop... unless someone was dumb enough to open a grow shop across the street from a Dunkin Donuts, cops don't have time to waste staking out grow shops. Few of them even give a shit. This is way too much work for way too little pay off - cops are lazy, they like easy headlines. They're not going to spend hours sitting a half block from a grow shop with a pair of binoculars, then run your plate and drive by your house or whatever, or subpoena the electric company for your power bill. They've got much better ways to spend their time, and many easier ways to bust stoners.


----------



## ODanksta (Nov 29, 2015)

OGAerogardener1990 said:


> Thats what im planning I have a 59 day old bb blue cheese in aero
> And im germing a blue dream for soil. (Mother)


Cutting at 59 days is some newbie shit.. why the fuck not go 60? Any real strain is best at 70 and real growers knows this


----------



## ODanksta (Nov 29, 2015)

Skunk Baxter said:


> How many weeks do you think a grow shop would stay in business if they turned their customers in to the police? What possible reason do they have?
> 
> And as for police staking out a grow shop... unless someone was dumb enough to open a grow shop across the street from a Dunkin Donuts, cops don't have time to waste staking out grow shops. Few of them even give a shit. This is way too much work for way too little pay off - cops are lazy, they like easy headlines. They're not going to spend hours sitting a half block from a grow shop with a pair of binoculars, then run your plate and drive by your house or whatever, or subpoena the electric company for your power bill. They've got much better ways to spend their time, and many easier ways to bust stoners.


He must live in Oklahoma


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## Bron-Y-Aur Stomp (Nov 29, 2015)

If your not selling it , and only growing a handful of plants, not out bragging about and keeping it to yourself the cops will never come looking for you, unless you make a facebook comment that pisses them off or something. But remember cops need a warrant to check your on line purchases, then they would have to show that you are using it for weed, then they would have to stake you out which requires two cops in two shifts, phone taps, costing thousands of dollars a day, then once they have enough evidence that your growing a handful of plants then they need to get a Judge to sign of a search warrant which again costs more money, So basically unless you are a big dealer or vocal about your weed support then you dont have to worry about them ever coming for you.. Most cops dont give a shit about you. Its just not financially smart to try and get a guy for a handful of plants. Just keep your mouth shut and you will be fine. Even still I get anything I order delivered to a friends house and use a different name on my on line account. But yea id never buy a hydroponic systyem, to easy and fun to make yourself.


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## Bron-Y-Aur Stomp (Nov 29, 2015)

And although Its great if you put yourself out there as a supporter of Cannabis, If your growing I would just not say anything. Mark Emery


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## budolskie (Nov 29, 2015)

First time nft, 

Shit if I say so myself

 
 

Next time will be using a net 10" above tubes


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## 3plus (Dec 7, 2015)

I just signed up and wanted one of my first posts to be on a hydro thread. Been soaking cubes and mixing ferts for some time now and just have a lot of fun doing such things, nice to meet you all


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## mr toka (Dec 12, 2015)

Hi all new to this site nice to meet u all. I have currently purchased a wilma xl 4 and have a it of a n b canna coco left and just started some nice lil lady's off was wondering if anyone can give me some advice on growing in coco on hydro. Thanks


----------



## hotrodharley (Dec 12, 2015)

Bron-Y-Aur Stomp said:


> How important is it to everyone to use a PPM meter? Ive never bothered with it, even my PH tests were done with Hagen test tubes, but Im thinking about getting a PPM tester, its from Amazon, apparently though its accuracy can be off by 10%, Does this seem important? Ive had great grows not even testing the PPM, but for $20 I figured id give it a shot.


I use one all the time now. Look at the Hanna Primo 4. Long cable to reaching back into reservoirs. Don't listen to the Blue Labs snobs here. Hanna is used in research labs around the world. Far more affordable than Blue. I have had mine 4 years now and it requires calibration twice a year if that.


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## 3plus (Dec 14, 2015)

mr toka said:


> Hi all new to this site nice to meet u all. I have currently purchased a wilma xl 4 and have a it of a n b canna coco left and just started some nice lil lady's off was wondering if anyone can give me some advice on growing in coco on hydro. Thanks


I can say make sure to use a ml or 2 of cal mag per gallon of water/solution and that will help keep them from a deficient state, good luck and have fun!!


----------



## CanBud (Dec 22, 2015)

Anyone use the GH Eurogardener? I got one super cheap and it's going to be my first hydro effort after my soil is finished up.


----------



## CanBud (Dec 23, 2015)

CanBud said:


> Anyone use the GH EuroGrower? I got one super cheap and it's going to be my first hydro effort after my soil is finished up.


----------



## Crumble queen (Jan 21, 2016)

Nova_Grower said:


> do you flush during flowering ,i never did before,should i be?


Yes you should flush atleast 2to3 days before harvest it makes your product alot better


----------



## budolskie (Jan 23, 2016)

Nft leafs 
5.8ph 700-800ppm
14 days since going in tubes


----------



## Buddaman20 (Apr 10, 2016)

I recently decided I was going to use a 3ft hydroponic grow box that I saw on unique hydroponicgrowbox webisite and had questions if anyone has ever used one for auto flowering seeds. Any help is appreciated!


----------



## ROLLING12 (Apr 11, 2016)

Question: how can you separate the roots between 2 plants without injuring at least 1?
thanks in advance


----------



## Trapgod1728 (Apr 11, 2016)

Whats up y'all newb here. I have a 12 bucket rdwc bubble ponics with 25 gallon rez, question is do I need to hook up the air or water pump to a timer which is connected to surge protector?? Or do I let it run continuously??


----------



## PerfectGrower (Apr 12, 2016)

ROLLING12 said:


> Question: how can you separate the roots between 2 plants without injuring at least 1?
> thanks in advance


You just have to be as careful as possible. Obviously try to damage as little as possible. Remove any roots that were damaged from your nutrient solution.


----------



## PerfectGrower (Apr 12, 2016)

Trapgod1728 said:


> Whats up y'all newb here. I have a 12 bucket rdwc bubble ponics with 25 gallon rez, question is do I need to hook up the air or water pump to a timer which is connected to surge protector?? Or do I let it run continuously??



You always want air pumping into your nutrient solution. Always!


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## Trapgod1728 (Apr 16, 2016)

@PerfectGrower ohhhhh lol thanx got it guess the timers came for the lights then obvy....back to the setup thanx again


----------



## ToneOZ (Apr 22, 2016)

Hey potroast. My flood and drain table has a foam raft sitting on top of it with 5 inch netpots hanging down into the table. My fixed overflow won't allow the water to go any higher than the bottom of the netpot. I am using hydro clay with rapid rooters in TheM for seedlings. Been having to hand water through the top to keep the rooters moist. Roots are beginning to come out of the bottoms of the netpots. My question is, should I be able to stop hand watering the rooters once decent roots are established into the tray below the overflow? Thanks man


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## budolskie (Apr 27, 2016)

Just hoyed my cuts in hopefully they pull round fast


----------



## Bigdaddy212 (Apr 30, 2016)

Does anybody have a chart that tells what you should use for plants with all the brands on the market with GH stuff what can you use and what can't you use together?


----------



## Ecosunlite CREE LED (May 13, 2016)

what do you think about this led grow bar ?


----------



## horribleherk (May 31, 2016)

Bigdaddy212 said:


> Does anybody have a chart that tells what you should use for plants with all the brands on the market with GH stuff what can you use and what can't you use together?


Gh & their feed charts have been really hot for my waterfarms I'm cutting them in 1/2 & still borderline over feeding using the gh 3-part flora nutes&addatives & their simple recirculating chart


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## budolskie (Jun 1, 2016)

My cuts did turn out fine just need to wait about 5 weeks to smoke


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## Bigdaddy212 (Jun 5, 2016)

horribleherk said:


> Gh & their feed charts have been really hot for my waterfarms I'm cutting them in 1/2 & still borderline over feeding using the gh 3-part flora nutes&addatives & their simple recirculating chart



Man I am witnessing sweettooth out of control using their feeding chart to the T in a RWDC its outrageous!!


----------



## horribleherk (Jun 5, 2016)

Bigdaddy212 said:


> Man I am witnessing sweettooth out of control using their feeding chart to the T in a RWDC its outrageous!!


I didn't explain my plants are small & ive only made it to the seedling & early growth when I mix a batch my ppm. ends up roughly double what they call for been using this schedule for quite awhile in e&f without problems didn't even use a tds meter so these waterfarms & their care & feeding has been a learning experience for me


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## wilson68 (Jul 3, 2016)

With timed dripper systems and flood & drain systems does the medium ever get dry? I ask because my reading suggests that cannabis medium should get dry between waterings. At least that's my perception of the information. But if there is simply a timer and no micro-management of the grow it would seem that the soil is likely to be always wet. Soil that's always wet = overwatering, which we all know is "bad."

Please help me with this apparent contradiction. Thanks.


----------



## JJARTS (Jul 3, 2016)

Bron-Y-Aur Stomp said:


> How important is it to everyone to use a PPM meter? Ive never bothered with it, even my PH tests were done with Hagen test tubes, but Im thinking about getting a PPM tester, its from Amazon, apparently though its accuracy can be off by 10%, Does this seem important? Ive had great grows not even testing the PPM, but for $20 I figured id give it a shot.


Be carefull with cheap meters, that most of the time giving you false numbers and this hurt more than help. My hanna meter was broken at a time my economic was in resecion and I tried one of thoses yellow meters, and it made my crazy, that was a pack of two, one for ppm and another for ph, and the ppm one give me the reading but the number were the half of the real one, and the ph meter read 9.8 in the tank but I got a sample from the tank with a cup and the meter red 5.7, and was the same meter and the same water....


----------



## powerslide (Jul 9, 2016)

wilson68 said:


> With timed dripper systems and flood & drain systems does the medium ever get dry? I ask because my reading suggests that cannabis medium should get dry between waterings. At least that's my perception of the information. But if there is simply a timer and no micro-management of the grow it would seem that the soil is likely to be always wet. Soil that's always wet = overwatering, which we all know is "bad."
> 
> Please help me with this apparent contradiction. Thanks.


No it shouldn't ever be "dry" They cycle it because it doesn't need to be drenched 24-7. And the longer you run the pump the hotter it gets and the harder it is to keep the liquid cool.


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## Jerseykushface (Jul 15, 2016)

My rdwc waiting for the silicone to dry so i can test it im not really sure how ima drain it when it's time to clean my buckets and change my res if you see anything missing lemme kno


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## blackforest (Jul 15, 2016)

Jerseykushface said:


> My rdwc waiting for the silicone to dry so i can test it im not really sure how ima drain it when it's time to clean my buckets and change my res if you see anything missing lemme kno View attachment 3733428 View attachment 3733429


Nice rdwc setup. Looks nice! I drain mine by putting in a small pump into the control bucket and just pumping it down the drain. If I'm just doing a rez change, I don't worry about the residual water left over and if I need to empty the entire thing, I pump the water out then use a shop vac (wet/dry) to suck out the remaining water. Actually works really well. Are you going to use an air pump, or just waterfall method? How about a chiller? I would suggest wrapping your pvc pipes and buckets because they allow a lot of light to make contact with the water and it will cause pathogen issues. I used panda film for my pvc pipe and have black buckets. When I modified my system and put the control bucket on the outside of my tent, I noticed a glow coming from the pvc. I then realize the pvp pipes were acting like giant glow sticks which made keeping bacteria under control a more difficult issue with a chiller and hydroguard. I personally would put duct tape around the clear tubing as well. Need to keep the water system super dark. Looks great, I hope you grow some monsters!


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## Jerseykushface (Jul 15, 2016)

blackforest said:


> Nice rdwc setup. Looks nice! I drain mine by putting in a small pump into the control bucket and just pumping it down the drain. If I'm just doing a rez change, I don't worry about the residual water left over and if I need to empty the entire thing, I pump the water out then use a shop vac (wet/dry) to suck out the remaining water. Actually works really well. Are you going to use an air pump, or just waterfall method? How about a chiller? I would suggest wrapping your pvc pipes and buckets because they allow a lot of light to make contact with the water and it will cause pathogen issues. I used panda film for my pvc pipe and have black buckets. When I modified my system and put the control bucket on the outside of my tent, I noticed a glow coming from the pvc. I then realize the pvp pipes were acting like giant glow sticks which made keeping bacteria under control a more difficult issue with a chiller and hydroguard. I personally would put duct tape around the clear tubing as well. Need to keep the water system super dark. Looks great, I hope you grow some monsters!


Awesome dude! All great points and i will tend to those immediately
And yes i will be using airstones also.. im mimicking @medgrower1 on YouTube i thought it looked pretty interesting.. and i was also thinking shopvac if i really felt the need to really clean out each bucket .. which i hope not because their practically siliconed onto the grommets..


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## blackforest (Jul 15, 2016)

Jerseykushface said:


> Awesome dude! All great points and i will tend to those immediately
> And yes i will be using airstones also.. im mimicking @medgrower1 on YouTube i thought it looked pretty interesting.. and i was also thinking shopvac if i really felt the need to really clean out each bucket .. which i hope not because their practically siliconed onto the grommets..


Glad to help, I went through all the issues with a diy rdwc system myself. Make sure you use a sterilizer or a beneficial to keep root issues under control. A wet/dry vac is a must for a hydro grow, also, imo. I used some 2" rubber couplers from lowes to join the system, so each bucket can be removed if needed and can break down quickly too. Just got to block all the light and keep the water temps low (mid 60's). I used to have round 5 gal buckets, but they were prone to leaks with uniseals, they did work though. I changed to 8 gal square buckets recently and put the control bucket on the outside of my tent along with the air pump, water pump and inline water filter so I can access all of that without opening the tent up. Here's an image outside of the 4x8 it's in now.


Here they are currently. Sinmint


Control bucket on outside


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## Jerseykushface (Jul 15, 2016)

blackforest said:


> Glad to help, I went through all the issues with a diy rdwc system myself. Make sure you use a sterilizer or a beneficial to keep root issues under control. A wet/dry vac is a must for a hydro grow, also, imo. I used some 2" rubber couplers from lowes to join the system, so each bucket can be removed if needed and can break down quickly too. Just got to block all the light and keep the water temps low (mid 60's). I used to have round 5 gal buckets, but they were prone to leaks with uniseals, they did work though. I changed to 8 gal square buckets recently and put the control bucket on the outside of my tent along with the air pump, water pump and inline water filter so I can access all of that without opening the tent up. Here's an image outside of the 4x8 it's in now.
> View attachment 3733498
> 
> Here they are currently. Sinmint
> ...


Plz explain what Is a beneficial or a sterilizer and how do i do it or when


----------



## Jerseykushface (Jul 15, 2016)

blackforest said:


> Glad to help, I went through all the issues with a diy rdwc system myself. Make sure you use a sterilizer or a beneficial to keep root issues under control. A wet/dry vac is a must for a hydro grow, also, imo. I used some 2" rubber couplers from lowes to join the system, so each bucket can be removed if needed and can break down quickly too. Just got to block all the light and keep the water temps low (mid 60's). I used to have round 5 gal buckets, but they were prone to leaks with uniseals, they did work though. I changed to 8 gal square buckets recently and put the control bucket on the outside of my tent along with the air pump, water pump and inline water filter so I can access all of that without opening the tent up. Here's an image outside of the 4x8 it's in now.
> View attachment 3733498
> 
> Here they are currently. Sinmint
> ...


And your set up looks great.. goals..... i wana get mine like that but with ten buckets.. after i practice hydro and get down the fundamentals i will probably make that next step to 10 square 8 gals


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## Jerseykushface (Jul 15, 2016)

Changed the clear tubing.. i will probably get black spray paint for the pvc tomorrow


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## blackforest (Jul 15, 2016)

Jerseykushface said:


> And your set up looks great.. goals..... i wana get mine like that but with ten buckets.. after i practice hydro and get down the fundamentals i will probably make that next step to 10 square 8 gals


I love hydro, I think it's a lot of fun and easy once it's dialed in. Lots of great info in the hydroponics dwc section if you are ever looking for specific help. Can't wait to see what it does for you!


----------



## powerslide (Aug 5, 2016)

Jerseykushface said:


> Plz explain what Is a beneficial or a sterilizer and how do i do it or when


i run sterile and use h2o2. Some guys run beneficial bacteria instead of running sterile. Never tried the bennies once i started using h2o2 and kept water temps below 70 i never had anymore issues.


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## southernguy99 (Aug 15, 2016)

Jerseykushface said:


> My rdwc waiting for the silicone to dry so i can test it im not really sure how ima drain it when it's time to clean my buckets and change my res if you see anything missing lemme kno View attachment 3733428 View attachment 3733429



Ideally you should be running 1" flex hose for drain , it also gives flexibility to move your buckets throughout the grow, and a spaghetti line to feed from the top. also the buckets should be 4-6" off the floor. air stones in res.and buckets.no clear hose everything has to be light tight,including the res. also if your temp. in the room runs above 68 you'll need a chiller for the res. just some basics. One question with that setup you are 6 packing the nutrients right.


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## Jerseykushface (Aug 15, 2016)

southernguy99 said:


> Ideally you should be running 1" flex hose for drain , it also gives flexibility to move your buckets throughout the grow, and a spaghetti line to feed from the top. also the buckets should be 4-6" off the floor. air stones in res.and buckets. just some basics.


----------



## Jerseykushface (Aug 15, 2016)




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## Jerseykushface (Aug 23, 2016)

Finally running good... changed res size finally getting roots.. started bennys set scrog


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## ChrisOTK (Aug 24, 2016)

Newbie question - Im setting up a brand new RDWC in a room that has and 8 ft ceiling. I want to make sure I can utilize as much of the space as possible so am looking to go with a low profile 10g bucket for each plant. If its an 8 inch to 10 inch bucket, will that leave enough space? I know the roots will be able to grow laterally, but the bottom of the net pot will be only a couple inches above the bubble stone. will that present problems? one other question. If I have 6 10 gallon buckets, is a 30 gal res too small? should it be 60? thank you for any help!


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## Bareback (Sep 12, 2016)

blackforest said:


> Glad to help, I went through all the issues with a diy rdwc system myself. Make sure you use a sterilizer or a beneficial to keep root issues under control. A wet/dry vac is a must for a hydro grow, also, imo. I used some 2" rubber couplers from lowes to join the system, so each bucket can be removed if needed and can break down quickly too. Just got to block all the light and keep the water temps low (mid 60's). I used to have round 5 gal buckets, but they were prone to leaks with uniseals, they did work though. I changed to 8 gal square buckets recently and put the control bucket on the outside of my tent along with the air pump, water pump and inline water filter so I can access all of that without opening the tent up. Here's an image outside of the 4x8 it's in now.
> View attachment 3733498
> 
> Here they are currently. Sinmint
> ...


 Is that a blue lab guardian in that control area. And are you using a chiller ? Also do you think a one in return line on a Eco 633 water pump for four buckets w/27 gal. Res. Thanks Bare


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## Jerseykushface (Sep 13, 2016)

Bareback said:


> Is that a blue lab guardian in that control area. And are you using a chiller ? Also do you think a one in return line on a Eco 633 water pump for four buckets w/27 gal. Res. Thanks Bare


Of course it will be if it works for mine why wouldn't it work for yours unless I'm totally off track here and your system is bigger than mine and if it is I didn't know that but power to you brother
And I don't know what you looking at or what you think is a control area and no I'm not using a chiller actually I haven't done anything to my plants at all I actually forgot about them cuz I've been so concerned getting my state card so I can go 100 plants legally I completely forgot about my hydro system but if I remember correctly the heavy 16 rep at my hydro store said that I didn't have to worry about heat affecting my roots because whatever their processes when making it they made it where Heat wouldn't be a problem

My res is 55 gallon URS is 27 gallon I use an eco 637 or whatever that number is and it's funny to power my 8 five gallon bucket 55 gallon res RWDC then you shouldn't have a problem unless yours is bigger than mine


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## southernguy99 (Sep 15, 2016)

If the guy at the hydro store designed that system he has not seen a properly designed system .


----------



## stezzy (Sep 26, 2016)

potroast said:


> All right! Hydroponics is what I know, and hydroponics is the way I grow!
> 
> This forum will be great, we can discuss anything hydro. No dirtbags here, We haul water!
> 
> ...


Hey what's up pot roast, how are you doing man. I'm new to hydro, was ml wondering if you could give me some pointers


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## Bareback (Sep 26, 2016)

I've got a question, I know this is going to seem stupid (and I'm sure it is ) . First let start with, I recently monster cropped for the first time in a diy aero cloner made from a coffee container with a 3" netty I want to transplant to something bigger. It has a beautiful root system hanging out of the netty. My question is wtf do I do now? Can I put this thing in dirt, will I have to stay with a dwc , is it ok to pull the roots out of the netty and place them in another large netty with hydron ? I would like to mother with this cutting but I need advice .Thanks for your input.
Peace out Bare 
P.S. all smart ass answers are welcome so let the show begin.


----------



## Jerseykushface (Sep 27, 2016)

Bareback said:


> I've got a question, I know this is going to seem stupid (and I'm sure it is ) . First let start with, I recently monster cropped for the first time in a diy aero cloner made from a coffee container with a 3" netty I want to transplant to something bigger. It has a beautiful root system hanging out of the netty. My question is wtf do I do now? Can I put this thing in dirt, will I have to stay with a dwc , is it ok to pull the roots out of the netty and place them in another large netty with hydron ? I would like to mother with this cutting but I need advice .Thanks for your input.
> Peace out Bare
> P.S. all smart ass answers are welcome so let the show begin.


If i were you id jus put sum hyrdoton in the bigger netty and then place the smaller one inside the big one n fill the surrounding space gently.. as far as switching to soil i heard its complicated... 

Ps... get the water chiller bro lol i was wrong


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## Bareback (Sep 27, 2016)

Thanks bro, I should have just asked you to start with. What happened with out the chiller.


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## Jerseykushface (Sep 27, 2016)

Bareback said:


> Thanks bro, I should have just asked you to start with. What happened with out the chiller.


Startin to get root rot.. so i took the pump out my res and ran sum h202 hopefully they'll go bak to normal


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## Bareback (Sep 27, 2016)

Sorry bout that bro that sucks. Read a bunch of stuff Dr who wrote on the problem or at least I think it was Dr who. It's hard to deal with I think good luck.


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## southernguy99 (Sep 27, 2016)

Pythium is very hard to get rid of some say you can't with out starting a new system , if the system is built right kept clean and maintained, proper water water temp, you should never have to run H2o2 and that stuff. its a wast of money


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## fandango (Oct 9, 2016)

Flood and drain set up...using 1 gallon pots...28 gallon res...4x4 tray...600hps...walls covered with mylar..1/2 ton ac...16" fan
rock wool mini cubes.
FloraNovaBloom...only start to finish
plants are 16" tall...just turned light to 12/12
In the last week the plants grew 5"
12 plant mix run
Chem Dawg
Gorilla Glue #4


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## YOUR HIGHNESS79 (Nov 9, 2016)

High Pot Roast. I am needing some advice and a startup growing plan for growing Girl Scout Cookies the Hydro way. What do I need to purchase to get this up and running within about a month or so? I want to yield about 4 plants. Should I start with clones or straight seeds? Thanks in advance!!


----------



## BiggieUfather (Nov 13, 2016)

I got an aeroflo20 and mars cree pro 256 Led. IF i plant in Every hole (20) would there be enough light ? 
Please respond


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## DesertHydro (Nov 25, 2016)

~4X8 tent and home made table flood and drain setup. rockwool cubes on a coco mat with 2kw hps over them. about three weeks in at the moment. minimal veg(about 15 days) jacks hydro nutrients, minimal additives. KISS as possible


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## Bareback (Nov 25, 2016)

I can see the binging of a jungle. Good luck


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## Gibbz2.0 (Feb 2, 2017)

Is 400ppm too hard of water from the tap?


----------



## fandango (Feb 10, 2017)

Gibbz2.0 said:


> Is 400ppm too hard of water from the tap?


Sure seems High...have you priced the RO filter?


----------



## Bigdaddy212 (Feb 10, 2017)

Gibbz2.0 said:


> Is 400ppm too hard of water from the tap?


Just tested mine today and its at 256 from tap


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## Gibbz2.0 (Feb 10, 2017)

I'm just going to use distilled water until I can afford a filter. How often do you guys need to add more water? Seems like my four little guys are chugging it


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## CannaBruh (Feb 10, 2017)

Gibbz2.0 said:


> Is 400ppm too hard of water from the tap?


no, DWC can run and aero might be a bit harder to dial, ime.

Depends what nutrients you want to run , some don't play as nice as others with the hard water.

Lucas formula GH 6/9 worked well with the hardwater as did Canna coco A&B and the cheap FF growbig/tiger/bigblooms


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## Gibbz2.0 (Feb 10, 2017)

I have the fox farm dirty dozen can't wait for these, is hydro a lot faster growing then soil?


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## Bareback (Feb 10, 2017)

Gibbz2.0 said:


> I have the fox farm dirty dozen can't wait for these, is hydro a lot faster growing then soil?


Yeah hydro faster.

But you'll need to to get the hydro grow big. Unless I'm mistaking the dirty dozen comes with the soil grow big.


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## fandango (Feb 10, 2017)

Gibbz2.0 said:


> I have the fox farm dirty dozen can't wait for these, is hydro a lot faster growing then soil?


Hydro takes the same amount of time to flower...but should yield more dry bud.
I lolipop the stem and use 2 levels of netting to grow lots of Bud sites.
I match my ppm to the light I am running.
600w = 600ppm etc.My tap water is 135ppm.


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## Gibbz2.0 (Feb 11, 2017)

Bareback said:


> Yeah hydro faster.
> 
> But you'll need to to get the hydro grow big. Unless I'm mistaking the dirty dozen comes with the soil grow big.


I bought the grow big hydro


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## Gibbz2.0 (Feb 11, 2017)

Ok I'm having a problem now, my plants are growing just fine but only one is growing roots down into the water, the rest are tiny little roots. Should I be worried about this?


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## Bareback (Feb 11, 2017)

Gibbz2.0 said:


> Ok I'm having a problem now, my plants are growing just fine but only one is growing roots down into the water, the rest are tiny little roots. Should I be worried about this?


No

Be patient.


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## Gibbz2.0 (Feb 11, 2017)

Bareback said:


> No
> 
> Be patient.


Thanks bro


----------



## Bareback (Feb 11, 2017)

Gibbz2.0 said:


> Thanks bro


Your welcome. Good luck


----------



## Ovah (Mar 8, 2017)

Hi.

Like what im seeing in this thread, nice setups.

Here is are some pics of my hydroponic setup:
One 400HPS
One 600HPS.

Tent size: 150x150x280cm or 5x5x?9?

Tent temperature: 22-24 degrees.
Water temp: 19-23 degrees.
Humidity: 35-40%
(I live in a cold environment)

Dutch Pot Hydro 1m2, room for twelve buckets 7L (2gallons) each bucket. I use 3 buckets this time.
Each bucket filled with leca balls.
Tank max 70L (18.4gallons) , i usually put in 60L (15.8 gallons)
Hailea Adjustable Air Pump 10 l/m

The nutrients I use for veg is:
Advanced nutrients, Jungle Juice series (Micro, bloom and grow).
Advanced nutrients, Voodoo Juice.


Bloom:
Advanced nutrients, Jungle Juice series (Micro, bloom and grow)
Advanced nutrients, Voodoo Juice.
Advanced nutrients, Big Bud.
Advanced nutrients Bud Factor X
PK Bulk 18:20.



Took these a few days ago, day 39.
The big one in the back and the one on the left is Amherst Sour Diesel and the smaller one on the right is Bubba´s Gift. Both from Humboldt Seeds.






Amherst Sour Diesel, day 39.











Close-up on Bubba´s Gift, day 39.


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## Bareback (Mar 8, 2017)

Ovah said:


> Hi.
> 
> Like what im seeing in this thread, nice setups.
> 
> ...


Nice keep up the good work


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## mfigures84 (Mar 8, 2017)

Hello.

I am newbie grower. I grew one plant before just for fun in soil and had a some success. I purchased a versagrow hydropronic drip system. I'm currently attempting to grow 4 OG kush autoflower and 6 blueberry autoflower. I'm using coco coir as a medium. And a S450 Led lighting system.

Do I run the drip system 24/7? 

There is some white fuzz growing around a couple seeds that haven't sprouted. Turned on the exhaust for the first time to lower the humidity. I move the regular fan to blow directly on the plants and haven't watered in about in two days. Should I get rid of the seeds?

Should I even be using coco coir? Should I have mixed something with it.

Do I add fertilizer directly to the hydroponic system? Or fertilize separately? I added a lil rapid start a few days ago.


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## Ovah (Mar 9, 2017)

mfigures84 said:


> Hello.
> 
> I am newbie grower. I grew one plant before just for fun in soil and had a some success. I purchased a versagrow hydropronic drip system. I'm currently attempting to grow 4 OG kush autoflower and 6 blueberry autoflower. I'm using coco coir as a medium. And a S450 Led lighting system.
> 
> ...



Never grown with Coco as medium, but I imagen the drip system should go 24/7 as if you had Leca balls. The plants need nutrients/oxygen all the time which they get through the water, if you have a air pump in your system?
If you dont, get it ASAP and with more than 3 air stones because you planing to grow so many plants at once.
Otherwise your plants wont survive.
Keep a good air circulation inside the tent at all times, never have a fan blowing on fast speed directly on the plants because they will get wind burnt if you do.

Nutrients should be put directly into the water tank, wait a while 1-2h check ec, check ph and adjust the ph if needed.
Get at pump to keep the water inside the tank circulating at all time.

But to be honest, so many plants inside that tent with hydroponic nutrients will take up to much space because the plants grow much faster and bigger than if you would grow in soil.

If I were you I would change the medium to Leca Balls to decrease the chance of mold and maybe grow 1-2 plants inside that tent.

Take a look at my setup in the post over this one. That system have 12 buckets available, but I can use max 4 because the plants grow so quick, tall and big in a hydroponic system.


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## mfigures84 (Mar 9, 2017)

Ovah said:


> Never grown with Coco as medium, but I imagen the drip system should go 24/7 as if you had Leca balls. The plants need nutrients/oxygen all the time which they get through the water, if you have a air pump in your system?
> If you dont, get it ASAP and with more than 3 air stones because you planing to grow so many plants at once.
> Otherwise your plants wont survive.
> Keep a good air circulation inside the tent at all times, never have a fan blowing on fast speed directly on the plants because they will get wind burnt if you do.
> ...


Ok so I went got some leca balls cleaned them real well and moved the seedlings to the new medium. I took the number of plants down to 4 . I have two large airstones, should I go get a couple more? Can I put the other drippers in the pots or will that be to much water at one time?


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## Ovah (Mar 10, 2017)

mfigures84 said:


> Ok so I went got some leca balls cleaned them real well and moved the seedlings to the new medium. I took the number of plants down to 4 . I have two large airstones, should I go get a couple more? Can I put the other drippers in the pots or will that be to much water at one time?


For now two airstone should be ok, but keep an eye on the plants when they get bigger for any signs of nitrogen/oxygen deficiency.

You could, just be careful so the drippers dont dripp faster than they drain otherwise your buckets will overfill.
Remember this also when your plants get bigger, the roots will probably go through the holes from your buckets trying to reach the main water, when there is no room left in your buckets, the chance of overfilling increases much more.


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## ANC (May 6, 2017)

check out this setup, quite easy to duplicate, really simple design.

Of course, you could be cheap use coco and perlite or vermiculite and hand water every day collecting the runoff and using it in the garden.
Once in the morning once in the evening. I think everyone should start there as a baseline to see just what hydro can do. I currently have month-old seedlings in soil, now being dwarfed by week old hydro ones.


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## Don't Bogart (May 7, 2017)

There just remaking the wheel. A basic hydro system does the same thing. It's clever and kudos for creating it.
Why put a pump under that stress when gravity will do the same thing.


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## ANC (May 8, 2017)

The only stressed pump is the return pipe. The outgoing side relies on gravity after it is pumped down from the large pump. It is not a continuous running loop.
I would use an outboard air cooled pump, maybe one of those Jaebo brushless ones with the soft start. It only has to run for a short while at the end of each cycle to return the water from the pipes to the large bin.

Let's say those pots each takes 10L of water, (sorry I speak metric, mostly) that is 130L to return for each string. I reckon a 1400L/h pump should do just fine (somewhere from 23 to 30W)

I like it for the simplification of the hardware side, you basically loop a flexible hose in a U which is supplying each pot with a simple push through T-barb. at each pot.
So your layout: is 2 reservoirs, big and small
2 pumps One should be able to push water up to the height of the large reservoir at a decent rate.
Long flexible hose (looks like about 1/2")
A float switch
timer
and a T and grommet for each pot. Your mom could put this together.


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## Don't Bogart (May 8, 2017)

Took another look at the video...I understand.


ANC said:


> Your mom could put this together.


Funny you should say that. I needed her help with what I did.


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## luqueman (May 15, 2017)

hydoponics better than soild


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## Max Anderson (Jun 29, 2017)

JesuZ said:


> completly new to hydro system...
> can anyone help out??


I'm new here so can't post a link but there's a good guide if you go to productiongrower com

Good luck!


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## aldvoff1969 (Jul 3, 2017)

My leaves are starting to look like spinach leaves what's wrong with them


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## aldvoff1969 (Jul 3, 2017)

Hey my plant looks like spinach leaves what's up with that


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## PetFlora (Jul 3, 2017)

I just received *Hydroponics A Practical Guide for the Soilless Grower* ~ $70 on Amazon 

It's a college level book 400+ pages

Hope it ups my game


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## PetFlora (Jul 3, 2017)

Here's a simple DIY for a small personal use grower. I can easily be expanded but I run it as multiple dual tote systems

I have 2 systems running. One with Igloo, one with tote sitting in a low Igloo. 2 pumps in each, one for flooding, one for flooming. Big plant was a single tote


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## SCJedi (Sep 26, 2017)

Jerseykushface said:


> My rdwc waiting for the silicone to dry so i can test it im not really sure how ima drain it when it's time to clean my buckets and change my res if you see anything missing lemme kno View attachment 3733428 View attachment 3733429


Any light that hits that clear pipe is going to grow algae in it. Switch it to black. Also, you can get unions and place them in between each of your buckets. (cut the pipe and glue on union) With a simple screw-on, screw off you can manipulate the buckets for cleaning.


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## Bareback (Sep 26, 2017)

SCJedi said:


> Any light that hits that clear pipe is going to grow algae in it. Switch it to black. Also, you can get unions and place them in between each of your buckets. (cut the pipe and glue on union) With a simple screw-on, screw off you can manipulate the buckets for cleaning.


Jersey hasn't been seen in a while. And he gave up on his hydro grow but his soil grow went good. He has a lot of videos on YouTube if you want the channel let me know.


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## southernguy99 (Oct 10, 2017)

lol that was easy to see, I told him that wasn't a proper system.


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## BlueBerryMango (Nov 28, 2017)

Can I give my soil plants the water from the resviour during the changes??


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## DaKnew/G\uy (Jun 8, 2018)

Hello everyone this is my first DWC or anything like this, can someone please help me with getting started?


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## Bareback (Jun 8, 2018)

DaKnew/G\uy said:


> Hello everyone this is my first DWC or anything like this, can someone please help me with getting started?


You will have to be more specific, there's lots of general information on this site and others..


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## Purpsmagurps (Jun 8, 2018)

mine, 

Get a chiller first or don't even think of doing RDWC lol.


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## DaKnew/G\uy (Jun 8, 2018)

Bareback said:


> You will have to be more specific, there's lots of general information on this site and others..


Like how do begin germination, how much nutrients to begin with, how long to run my LED lights. I will be running a 5 gal DWC bucket, with clay pellet medium. I will be using Micro nutrients and rockwool to start. I am planning to start blue pyramid auto.


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## Purpsmagurps (Jun 8, 2018)

DaKnew/G\uy said:


> Like how do begin germination, how much nutrients to begin with, how long to run my LED lights. I will be running a 5 gal DWC bucket, with clay pellet medium. I will be using Micro nutrients and rockwool to start. I am planning to start blue pyramid auto.


first thing with dwc you need to keep your water chilled. 65 to 68 degrees. if you can't buy a 300 dollar chiller I wouldn't do dwc. especially if its your first time. stick with soil.


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## Purpsmagurps (Jun 8, 2018)

an auto will flip to flower as soon as you ran into your first problem (which you most definitely will) and you will yield nothing.. plant it in a 5 gallon air pot and stick with organic.


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## Bareback (Jun 9, 2018)

DaKnew/G\uy said:


> Like how do begin germination, how much nutrients to begin with, how long to run my LED lights. I will be running a 5 gal DWC bucket, with clay pellet medium. I will be using Micro nutrients and rockwool to start. I am planning to start blue pyramid auto.


Like @Purpsmagurps said a chiller is preferred or your asking for trouble.

However I have grown several big beautiful photo strains with out a problem ( also have had a few that was unsuccessful ) . I prefer dirt, it is slower but easier.

I don't use rockwool so I can't help you there. I love root roit cubes, I use them for soil, dwc, seeds and clones.

So I only grow for 9 months I don't even try to grow during the summer it's just too damn hot and I don't have to with a successful winter grow.

Here is what I have had success with.
1. I use two buckets and rotate ever week, same lid.
2 .fresh water and nukes. I condition my nukes for four or five days .
3 .clean the bucket between each cycle.

I use fox farm nukes because I can get them local and it's 6 hours round-trip to the hydro store. So I use whats covenant for me. To condition my nukes I put three gallons of ro water in a bucket and then I add ( with a aeration stone running 24/7 in both buckets )
1 . Grow big let set for 12/24 hours
2. Cal/mag 12/24 hours
3. Big bloom 12/24 hours
4. Tiger bloom 12 hours
5. H2O2 12 hours
6. PH up/down

This is just an example, you have to know and adjust for 
1. Age of plant
2. Possible plant issues/needs
3. Environment
And so much more.

Read some info on hydro and make sure you can at least maintain the minimum requirements or it will never happen.
Good luck


----------



## rastagurlx90 (Jun 14, 2018)

What do you recommend for only one flower? Is it still good to do hydro? What light i should use?


----------



## dakilla187 (Nov 26, 2018)

I was planning for a single bubble bucket grow but since I ordered a water chiller which requires a pump should I opt for a reservoir. If I did a reservoir would I still need a second pump or could the chiller outlet feed it? 

My plant will be moved daily from inside my storage house(grow tent in there) to right outside of it(under the hawaiian sun)roughly 6 feet of movement and will flower outside..


I figure my reservoir could remain stationary inside my storage house and I could just move my bucket maybe with long return hoses or quick disconnects...


Or is all of that too complicated and I should just use a single bubble bucket with a inlet and outlet for the chiller? I might be overthinking this, I just thought a stationary reservoir would be easier to do everything being the chiller would be right next to it but for a single bucket not worth it...


----------



## baaael (Dec 9, 2018)

how many airstones would i need in a 100L res to keep it properly oxygenated and whats the lowest amount one could use


----------



## myke (Jan 24, 2019)

crickets singing,


----------



## PhatNuggz (Jan 25, 2019)

baaael said:


> how many airstones would i need in a 100L res to keep it properly oxygenated and whats the lowest amount one could use


NONE! Get a small water pump (with a venturi), put it on a timer let it run ~ 10-15 minutes then pause ~ 30 minutes, repeat 24/7


----------



## UpstateGarden (Jun 23, 2019)

Do you guys think I’m better off going with a floraflex system or a nutrient film technique (nft) for growing autoflowers?


----------



## ANC (Jun 23, 2019)

The nutrient film system is pretty effective. I call it the oxygen film, cause providing oxygenated water to roots is the thing it excels at better than other systems.


----------



## Purpsmagurps (Jun 23, 2019)

Honestly for air put as much to the point of almost breaking roots, for a single site you need to drain into a spare reservoir, use 1.5 inch uni seals minimum for the pvc return tube, you can aerate the res to fuckall then pump oxygenated water in or do it based on how small you can get the bubbles in the water.


----------



## Purpsmagurps (Jun 23, 2019)

Don't grow auto's. Period.


----------



## hellmutt bones (Jun 23, 2019)

PetFlora said:


> Here's a simple DIY for a small personal use grower. I can easily be expanded but I run it as multiple dual tote systems
> 
> I have 2 systems running. One with Igloo, one with tote sitting in a low Igloo. 2 pumps in each, one for flooding, one for flooming. Big plant was a single tote
> 
> View attachment 3971617 View attachment 3971618 View attachment 3971619 View attachment 3971620


Low key.. that looks like a fire hazard.
Just saying


----------



## Zarkmaster (Feb 16, 2020)

potroast said:


> All right! Hydroponics is what I know, and hydroponics is the way I grow!
> 
> This forum will be great, we can discuss anything hydro. No dirtbags here, We haul water!
> 
> ...


I have a first grow in hydroponics of gg4, just started week 1 of flowering, how often change nutrients or just add.
im using Sensi Bloom A,B. What else should I add ? Using Kratky method. Tent with led lights,.


----------



## matty-berk (Apr 18, 2020)

potroast said:


> All right! Hydroponics is what I know, and hydroponics is the way I grow!
> 
> This forum will be great, we can discuss anything hydro. No dirtbags here, We haul water!
> 
> ...


i have a bucket system i havnet set up yet, ive been waiting to find out exactly how to mix my nutrients in the solution. and how far the water needs to be from the bottom of the net cup


----------



## BlueBerryMango (Apr 18, 2020)

matty-berk said:


> i have a bucket system i havnet set up yet, ive been waiting to find out exactly how to mix my nutrients in the solution. and how far the water needs to be from the bottom of the net cup


water should be just below net cup, as roots grow, the water level should be lowered slightly more.

mix 1/4 to 1/2 the strength of what it says on bottle for “seedling” or “Veg growth”
if using tap, it could have calcium/magnesium in it already. If using distilled/RO water, you add in about 1-2ml/gallon or about 50-75ppm.
Add in your micro / formula mix A, stir.
Add in your grow / formula mix B, stir.
Add in your bloom / if using 3 part fertilizer, stir. Final ppl should be around 150-200ppm.
Increase as plant grows bigger.
3 part fertilizers should have a 3-2-1 rule.
Veg 3 parts grow, 2 part micro, 1 part bloom.
Bloom 3 part bloom, 2 part micro, 1 part grow.


----------



## Midiver (Apr 19, 2020)

Does any one know how to mix this stuff up or how much per gallon, or should I just go fish.


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## matty-berk (Apr 20, 2020)

BlueBerryMango said:


> water should be just below net cup, as roots grow, the water level should be lowered slightly more.
> 
> mix 1/4 to 1/2 the strength of what it says on bottle for “seedling” or “Veg growth”
> if using tap, it could have calcium/magnesium in it already. If using distilled/RO water, you add in about 1-2ml/gallon or about 50-75ppm.
> ...


thank you very much


----------



## reallycoolguy (Apr 27, 2020)

Hey guys,
so i started my current NFT grow about 2 weeks ago. It is my first Hydro grow, i was using rockwool for about 3 years before.
I started my seeds in coco cubes and transfered them into the nft system after a week.

The roots werent long at all so I raised the water level so all of the cube is fully submerged in water. It is more like some kind of RDWC now.
Now I got signs of overwatering. Really slow growth. I thought that would not be possible in hydroponics? The plants are turning yellow from the top and are hanging down.
PH is stable 5.8 and water temperature is 20 degrees celsius. I use a small airstone in my reservoir but maybe it is not enough?

Is it bad to fully submerge the rockwool/coco cube in the water (maybe some DWC guys can help me out here)?


----------



## budolskie (May 7, 2020)

@reallycoolguy 

Drop the water level you dont want the cube submerged, the water running past the bottom with cube sitting in it, the cube will soak the water up.

I am going to build a new nft system simular to the one i built a while back but larger for 12-15 plants


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## DaFreak (May 7, 2020)

For something like that I would just throw some sprayers from above. People call them aeroponics, but they are really just NFT with low pressure sprayers for the most part. But they really do kick ass the first week or so.


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## matty-berk (May 8, 2020)

budolskie said:


> @reallycoolguy
> 
> Drop the water level you dont want the cube submerged, the water running past the bottom with cube sitting in it, the cube will soak the water up.
> 
> I am going to build a new nft system simular to the one i built a while back but larger for 12-15 plants


this looks so sick! how do you have the water going into the pipes though? is it recirculating somehow?


----------



## budolskie (May 9, 2020)

matty-berk said:


> this looks so sick! how do you have the water going into the pipes though? is it recirculating somehow?


Yes i had a water pump in the res and pumped it in to the pipes and just recirculated, was a good little build for me i cant wait to get the stuff to build one for 12-15 plants, 3 tubes of either 4 or 5 each depending on space in the 2.4x1.2


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## Falconio (May 16, 2020)

Hi guys, big fan of the community!

I'm a first time grower and have build a dwc bucket system with a top drip line for the early stages. I was wondering If I should leave the waterpump on all the time or have it on a timed on/off schedule. Since it is a space bucket type configuration i'm only working with one plant submerged in the reservoir underneath it. I am worried that leaving the water pump for the drip line on all the time will warm up my reservoir too much for the roots to be healty. I'm sure many of you have used a "bubbleponics" setup so please help a newbie out, thanks!


----------



## StefanWolf (May 20, 2020)

I'm interested in a 4 bucket rdwc system, how nessecary is a chiller?
How much should I expect to spend to get a good set up? Thank you. 
Would a 4x4 be big enough for 4×5 gallon buckets in this system?


----------



## raymont (Jun 24, 2020)

I built a 4 bucket system in a 4x4 tent. I cut a hole at the bottom of the tent and installed an a/c unit. Cools the tent and blows directly at a bucket and my water is 72. Room is cooled to 75.


----------



## Superstrain99 (Jun 26, 2020)

Any photos to show ?


----------



## blueberryrose (Jun 26, 2020)

kratky White Cookies from CK


----------



## raymont (Jul 3, 2020)

Superstrain99 said:


> Any photos to show ?


I had a setback as parts were on back order. Ill post up when complete. 90% complete


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## blueberryrose (Jul 4, 2020)

One week later...
White Cookies from CropKing


Lemon Skunk from 34 Street Co.


You can't see in the photo, but I've cut two holes in each kratky container - one hole to feed nutrient solution, one hole for overflow (because I don't want to overfill and drown the air-roots. These will be at 4 weeks since sprout this coming Tuesday. Soon I'll start tying them down (LST) hence the holes - I won't be able to remove them from the containers once they're tied down with twine and tape. Will probably give them only another 2 weeks in veg and then they'll go into my larger kratky bins and into the 12/12 tent 
Happy July 4th from Canada bros!


----------



## Keesje (Jul 15, 2020)

SeaShell said:


> Has anyone ever used these? Any Hints or Warnings?
> View attachment 4624962
> I have cracked many but wanted to try something different...
> View attachment 4624964
> ...


Try again. The pics are less then an inch wide


----------



## DarthVaper84 (Jul 15, 2020)

dcyans said:


> Depends on the system bro I've done plenty of no flush grows and believe me I was dead against it for a long time until I started using Lucas's formula and recommended addbacks. you would think of course that some of the element salts would build up to toxic levels but it really doesn't come into play as you would thing when you properly manage your nutrient solutions. I will still recommend especially for beginners res changes every two weeks but not before that is only wasting nutrients as well as adding extra waste to the environment.


Nice to read that flushes aren’t always super critical. I’m about to start my first and will be going with the 10 day or so flush, but who knows, with an EC meter alone I can hopefully do add backs. Thanks for the every two weeks at first advice, this forum has been great so far.


----------



## Danielson999 (Aug 12, 2020)

I've always grown in soil but I am finally giving hydroponics a go. I have 2 tents, a 2'x4' and a 4'x6'. I bought a flood tray for each but still don't have a definitive plan. Do many people run 2 or more tents off one reservoir? I'd love to keep my reservoir outside the tents where I have easy access and the ability to feed both tents from it. I'd also probably need pumps to push the water both ways (in and out of each tray). I haven't seen any grows yet of people doing this although I've only browsed a bit on youtube and seen a few flood and drain setups on RIU. 

So can I do this? Any links to setups like this? Or just tell me it's a bad idea...


----------



## Mr.Earth (Mar 11, 2021)

potroast said:


> All right! Hydroponics is what I know, and hydroponics is the way I grow!
> 
> This forum will be great, we can discuss anything hydro. No dirtbags here, We haul water!
> 
> ...


Well I hope all is well with you and yours I'm new to this forum and I need some help with mixing Peter's hydroponics 5-11-26 for my 
9'x4'x5" hydroponics bed if I figured right it is a 112 gals but I am confused on mix ratio Growing tomatoes and peppers and
Thanks for help


----------



## hotrodharley (Mar 11, 2021)

Mr.Earth said:


> Well I hope all is well with you and yours I'm new to this forum and I need some help with mixing Peter's hydroponics 5-11-26 for my
> 9'x4'x5" hydroponics bed if I figured right it is a 112 gals but I am confused on mix ratio Growing tomatoes and peppers and
> Thanks for help


JR Peters, Inc. 
6656 Grant Way,
Allentown, PA, 18106
Toll Free: 866-522-5752
email: [email protected]

Call or email. It takes a few days if you email.


----------



## Mr.Earth (Mar 11, 2021)

Thanks I called number on bag said they are not taking any calls, the number you provided will help, this is our first mix want to make sure it's right Thanks again


----------



## myke (Mar 11, 2021)

looks like just a one part? Easy enough, youll need a ppm meter.Mix half of what the bag says.Check ppm.Small seedlings dont need much 1-200 as they grow increase to around 5-600 ppm.


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## Mr.Earth (Mar 12, 2021)

1/2 would be 500 gals don't have a tank large enough I divided 130 Oz into 1000 gals
That gives me 7.69 Oz per gal x that by 112 gals = 861.28 over half of fert. Thankd


----------



## myke (Mar 12, 2021)

Mr.Earth said:


> 1/2 would be 500 gals don't have a tank large enough I divided 130 Oz into 1000 gals
> That gives me 7.69 Oz per gal x that by 112 gals = 861.28 over half of fert. Thankd


I mean half the recommended strength (ppm)


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## Mr.Earth (Mar 12, 2021)

OK Thanks


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## myke (Mar 12, 2021)

Mr.Earth said:


> OK Thanks


Is it a 1 part mix?What does it say on the bag? example ; x grams per gallon


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## Mr.Earth (Mar 12, 2021)

I called the number hotrodharley posted, turns out there are 2 Peter's fertilizer companies but all is Good! Kaitlyn from Jack's ( Peter's) ran dulition turns out I had a senior moment my number was correct I just didn't move decimal point over big Da, Thanks to all who posted now I hope I can find the greenhouse


----------



## rkymtnman (Mar 12, 2021)

Mr.Earth said:


> I called the number hotrodharley posted, turns out there are 2 Peter's fertilizer companies but all is Good! Kaitlyn from Jack's ( Peter's) ran dulition turns out I had a senior moment my number was correct I just didn't move decimal point over big Da, Thanks to all who posted now I hope I can find the greenhouse


----------



## ntg908 (Apr 22, 2021)

Whats a general flush time before harvest in DWC? the last 2 grows i did in DWC i flushed for 5 days, then 14 days with little to no color change in the leaves. Thats without and flushing nutrient like flora kleen, just water.


----------



## Aloha Haze (Apr 22, 2021)

ntg908 said:


> Whats a general flush time before harvest in DWC? the last 2 grows i did in DWC i flushed for 5 days, then 14 days with little to no color change in the leaves. Thats without and flushing nutrient like flora kleen, just water.


Personal preference for most and seems like you have two data points to judge from....was there a difference between the two? I personally flush the res with flora Kleen then refill with fresh PH RO H2O for 2-3 days then chop. I have found that is the peak line for Benefits gained for my process.


----------



## ntg908 (Apr 22, 2021)

Aloha Haze said:


> Personal preference for most and seems like you have two data points to judge from....was there a difference between the two? I personally flush the res with flora Kleen then refill with fresh PH RO H2O for 2-3 days then chop. I have found that is the peak line for Benefits gained for my process.


I have not tried with the flora kleen yet, just found it weird that after 2 weeks i showed almost no change, like i was still running nutes. In return i got buds that were really clean tasting and just not good, so i bought the kleen. Will be giving it a shot on this next harvest i got coming


----------



## myke (Apr 22, 2021)

ntg908 said:


> Whats a general flush time before harvest in DWC? the last 2 grows i did in DWC i flushed for 5 days, then 14 days with little to no color change in the leaves. Thats without and flushing nutrient like flora kleen, just water.


Yes because once the plant absorbs the nutrients you cant flush them out.Ive never tried but I wonder how long you could go with straight water before a deficiency.Never the less feed low and you wont need to.


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## FishEyeLenz (May 10, 2021)

Hello everyone! Just checking in with my fellow hydro growers. I am a medical patient growing my own in a 2X4 tent using 8 gallon containers. I am about to harvest my second grow and have 3 Kush XL autoflowers waiting in a 2X4 shorty in another room for the tent to be vacated. Soon I will start some Skywalker OG photoperiod ladies and search for a good mother to clone.
I will be lurking and learning as much as I can. Nice to meet you all


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## ntg908 (May 12, 2021)

myke said:


> Yes because once the plant absorbs the nutrients you cant flush them out.Ive never tried but I wonder how long you could go with straight water before a deficiency.Never the less feed low and you wont need to.


You can its called cannibalizing. For instance if you put no nitrogen in your reservoir, your plant will literally eat the nitrogen out of the leaves turning them yellow. Things like nitrogen are called "mobile nutrients" because they can move to where they are needed. Plants will automatically "flush" themselves at the end of their lives, but your like 70% amber at that point which is why most growers force it by starving the reservoir. When your pant depletes all of its phosphorus all of the leaves will start to turn a purple color.


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## kingromano (May 22, 2021)

do not flush
it starve the plant and kill the final product

feed the right EC all the grow until the end
the overall color of your plants will tell you if you are in the right spot

ph/ec flucutuations in the res too

they must be green until the end .. never yellow
if you get bad taste/black ash it means you overfeed/had nutrient accumulations


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## Don't Bogart (May 23, 2021)

I don't flush.
I can't flush. 
The water runs through my fish tank. 
So I just watch the PH. If I time it right I could let the nutes fall off near the end, say 2 weeks out. But things like phosphorous don't budge much. Potassium seems to stay up. Calcium will drop off and nitrates also.


----------



## GrowTime38 (Jun 6, 2021)

So I am running a RDWC system and found my pH runs a tad on the lower side. I just checked mine today after adding 5 gallons to a low reservoir last night and it was at 5.83. What is a simple way to raise it slightly because I have gotten some brown/yellow spots on the leave this past week. I read in the group that you can use drain cleaner? Is this true? What is the safest and easiest way to accomplish what I need? Thanks. I also use liquid Fox Farm for my nutes.


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## firsttimeARE (Jun 6, 2021)

GrowTime38 said:


> So I am running a RDWC system and found my pH runs a tad on the lower side. I just checked mine today after adding 5 gallons to a low reservoir last night and it was at 5.83. What is a simple way to raise it slightly because I have gotten some brown/yellow spots on the leave this past week. I read in the group that you can use drain cleaner? Is this true? What is the safest and easiest way to accomplish what I need? Thanks. I also use liquid Fox Farm for my nutes.


5.8 is fine for hydro. Why do you want to raise it? Drain cleaner? Wtf? Post pictures of the spots


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## GrowTime38 (Jun 6, 2021)

Here is the link to my original post. One of the pics that were posted. Yeah I searched in the forum pH up for hydro and someone said they use sodium hydroxide (drain cleaner) for their pH up and I think an acid for the pH down. Seemed odd. I did see this issue prior to knowing what the issue was. The reservoir was low and I didn't test the water inside before adding 5 gallons. Ran it overnight and tested pH before posting earlier. I am usually at the 5.8 mark after it is all mixed.





__





Leaf spots


Can anyone let me know what could be causing this and a possible solution to correct it? This is a hydro grow in a RDWC with 2 x 200w (advertised) light and 6 x 65w (advertised) single bulb lights. Pulled a male the other week and this one is in a smaller net pot than the male was. I left it...



www.rollitup.org


----------



## rkymtnman (Jun 6, 2021)

GrowTime38 said:


> What is the safest and easiest way to accomplish what I need?


pH up from about a hundred different companies. or any silica product will raise pH too. 

i wouldn't use drain cleaner unless you don't plan on smoking your weed.


----------



## Don't Bogart (Jun 8, 2021)

Check for mites also, (webbing around some leaves). I use chelated lime w/ potassium hydroxide 2/1. But since I don't do Hydro I'm not too clear on nutes that way.


----------



## Plut (Jun 8, 2021)

Hello there guys!

I'm Christina, I'm from California and I'm starting on this. I still haven't decided how to carry on my projects, but hydroponics have actually called my attention. Could you tell me the advantages and/or contras of growing hydroponics????


----------



## GrowTime38 (Jun 8, 2021)

Plut said:


> Hello there guys!
> 
> I'm Christina, I'm from California and I'm starting on this. I still haven't decided how to carry on my projects, but hydroponics have actually called my attention. Could you tell me the advantages and/or contras of growing hydroponics????


Faster nutrient uptake and can be controlled for each plant. This usually yields more faster. The downside is that they can be damaged easier, more prone to temp changes and water changes.


----------



## Plut (Jun 9, 2021)

GrowTime38 said:


> Faster nutrient uptake and can be controlled for each plant. This usually yields more faster. The downside is that they can be damaged easier, more prone to temp changes and water changes.


So, i guess the environment has to be pretty well-controlled for this system to work, right? some advice on what should I be more careful about?


----------



## Don't Bogart (Jun 9, 2021)

Plut said:


> some advice on what should I be more careful about?


Basically plow through these posts. The pinned ones are full of info. Youtube hydro and not just pot. You got to be a little anal with a touch of OCD.
A lot of people are proud of their setups so there are ideas galore. Start small, ( I suggest). Out in Cali your probably surrounded with hydro farms. Take a tour.


----------



## GrowTime38 (Jun 11, 2021)

Don't Bogart said:


> Basically plow through these posts. The pinned ones are full of info. Youtube hydro and not just pot. You got to be a little anal with a touch of OCD.
> A lot of people are proud of their setups so there are ideas galore. Start small, ( I suggest). Out in Cali your probably surrounded with hydro farms. Take a tour.


Great suggestion if they allow it. Here on the East you don't get many of those opportunities


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## Don't Bogart (Jun 12, 2021)

GrowTime38 said:


> Here on the East you don't get many of those opportunities


When you said I'm from Cali I took it that you were writing from there. If your hear on the East you can still find places that will take you around for a look. Some are offering jobs. Personally I've yet to do it myself. For me, I do aquaponics. They're not as popular.
Here. I queried hydroponics in New Jersey, New York, and Virginia. These are big, commercial.








Eden Green | Vertical Greenhouses & Hydroponic Produce


We are your one-stop vertical farm for delicious hydroponic produce and private labeling at affordable prices. Waste less and save more with Eden Green.




www.edengreen.com








__





Hydroponic Systems and Growing Supplies | Cropking







www.cropking.com












BrightFarms | Fresh Baby Greens Grown for Locals


BrightFarms® greens are tender and delicious, clean and pesticide free, responsibly grown and delivered to local stores, by locals just like you.




www.brightfarms.com





Youtube,for the virtual tour is your best bet. Lots of setups that could fit your needs. Instructions, design ideas. My go-to when I was putting my setup together.


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## GrowTime38 (Jun 13, 2021)

Don't Bogart said:


> When you said I'm from Cali I took it that you were writing from there. If your hear on the East you can still find places that will take you around for a look. Some are offering jobs. Personally I've yet to do it myself. For me, I do aquaponics. They're not as popular.
> Here. I queried hydroponics in New Jersey, New York, and Virginia. These are big, commercial.
> 
> 
> ...


There is a very large grow in Newark NJ. All indoor and not the usual in these parts. I was responding to Christina who said she lived in Cali. All good though.


----------



## Davo68 (Jun 13, 2021)

GrowTime38 said:


> Faster nutrient uptake and can be controlled for each plant. This usually yields more faster. The downside is that they can be damaged easier, more prone to temp changes and water changes.





Plut said:


> Hello there guys!
> 
> I'm Christina, I'm from California and I'm starting on this. I still haven't decided how to carry on my projects, but hydroponics have actually called my attention. Could you tell me the advantages and/or contras of growing hydroponics????


Hey Christina 
I switched to DWC a few grows ago cuz the plants grow faster. In soil I would veg for 6-8 weeks with DWC, 4-5 weeks. Potency is also claimed to be higher with hydro.


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## Don't Bogart (Jun 13, 2021)

GrowTime38 said:


> I was responding to Christina who said she lived in Cali.


See! This is what drugs do to you. Skulking around in the dark. Money changing hands on the sly. I should go back to dealing with upright legal stuff like Percocets, Valiums, oxycontins/oxycodons made by reputable people who are holding higher standards for us. You can see and hear how wonderfully they work for me......myself........................................and I.


----------



## Plut (Jun 26, 2021)

Hey guys sorry, I had COVID i literally would love to have died xD if you didn't have it, i hope you don't!

Now, i'll get up to the date with your answers, you're so kind!

@Davo68 Thanks for the info there! And in counterpart, would you say there're some disadvantages even if smaller than the benefits? I mean, nothing can be perfect, right? Even pot makes you cough lol xD

@Don't Bogart Thanks, thankss, thankksss i didn't even know i could take a tour like that, i'm actually not currently in California but once i get back home i will definitely go for those, meanwhile i'll check the digital ones, thanks again... And about what you do.. how did you get into aquaponics (i had to google it)??? I mean that's awesome, it would be lovely, to raise some fish while growing your own plants!! Do you think it's better than just hydro? OR has its downfalls? i guess it's harder to maintain....

@GrowTime38 thanks, i hope i can find some that allow it, i'm open to as many suggestions as possible lolthanks for all your help!


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## Don't Bogart (Jun 27, 2021)

Plut said:


> Do you think it's better than just hydro?


It just different. And maybe yes a little harder. My advantage is that I've been raising, and killing , fish for many years. So that part I've got a handle on.
You will kill fish. I've wiped out whole tanks. Start with something cheap like goldfish feeders. I paid 50 cents a pc.
Also most of the nutrients used in hydro can't be used in aqua you'll kill the fish they're too toxic. You lean more organic.
Some of the advantages are your less likely to have root rot. The water to the fish is cleaned so no water changes or at least it's reduced. I've got mine running with an overflow aquarium so my wife and I sit and watch the fish. Very soothing.
Plants grow like crazy. Also just like hydro you got to watch your nutes. I use aquarium test kits to gauge nute levels. So I can test for the big three as well as calcium, iron, boron and others. Also test for ammonia and PH. Ph is running 6.0-6.4 the fish don't mind it.
I'm raising some algae eaters. Started selling them to a local pet shop.
I personally think you will have better, healthier plants. Tastier too.


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## Davo68 (Jul 17, 2021)

Don't Bogart said:


> It just different. And maybe yes a little harder. My advantage is that I've been raising, and killing , fish for many years. So that part I've got a handle on.
> You will kill fish. I've wiped out whole tanks. Start with something cheap like goldfish feeders. I paid 50 cents a pc.
> Also most of the nutrients used in hydro can't be used in aqua you'll kill the fish they're too toxic. You lean more organic.
> Some of the advantages are your less likely to have root rot. The water to the fish is cleaned so no water changes or at least it's reduced. I've got mine running with an overflow aquarium so my wife and I sit and watch the fish. Very soothing.
> ...


Awesome setup Don’t Bogart!


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## VAjohn (Jul 27, 2021)

Dr. Greenthumb said:


> How often do you have to flush the water in a hydro system?


I think it’s preference. Definitely after harvest. I change my Reservoir once a week and flush every other time. Sometimes I let go for a week longer. Never had any issues.


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## Davo68 (Jul 31, 2021)

I agree with VAjohn. 
Preference of your plants tells you when and how often to change the reservoirs. If you take ph and ec readings daily and adjust as needed you can probably get by changing the reservoir every few weeks.


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## Davo68 (Jul 31, 2021)

Plut said:


> Hey guys sorry, I had COVID i literally would love to have died xD if you didn't have it, i hope you don't!
> 
> Now, i'll get up to the date with your answers, you're so kind!
> 
> ...


Plut Yes there are disadvantages to hydro. For myself I check the ph and ec daily which isn’t necessary in soil and can be more time consuming. Things affect your plants more rapidly in hydro so they need more monitoring. The initial setup costs for hydro are also higher than soil but of course that can be made up over the course of several grows.
Glad you that you are back from COVID.


----------



## DrHill (Sep 10, 2021)

Hey I need help if someone could point me in the right direction of what I’m doing wrong. 
this is my first RDWC grow. Have been using supersoil with success prior to this.

planted these 4 clones about a week ago and they all have rooted well into the buckets (except for the smallest one pictured; no roots coming out of the bottom of the basket yet)

they all were doing pretty well initially, and started to look like this yesterday so i did a complete reservoir change just using hydroguard& general hydroponics flora trio and their moderate feed schedule. measured for 20 gallons. (4x 5gal buckets) Also have 5 gal. reservoir

ph = 6.2
Water temp = 74 degrees
Tent temp = 77 degrees 
Relative humidity = 44%
Ppm = 430
EC = 860

please help, what am I doing wrong?? 

plants are steadily growing new leaves but don’t look healthy overall. Some Leaves are brittle to the touch. 
ligths are migro array 240w and 12” away from plants


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## Don't Bogart (Sep 10, 2021)

Too much nutes then plants burn.
They don't stop taking up nutes.
Flush.


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## MustGro (Sep 10, 2021)

DrHill said:


> Hey I need help if someone could point me in the right direction of what I’m doing wrong.
> this is my first RDWC grow. Have been using supersoil with success prior to this.
> 
> planted these 4 clones about a week ago and they all have rooted well into the buckets (except for the smallest one pictured; no roots coming out of the bottom of the basket yet)
> ...


The water temp is a bit high, 70 would be better.
44% RH is way too low for veg. Bump it up to 60 plus if you can.
430ppm is .86ec but nice try, the EC people on here will appreciate that.
Plants look nute and maybe light burned. How about a link to your light?
Gh uses a fairly high ppm so 430 isn’t high for them. What ratios are you using?
Your 5 gallon res tops up with full strength nute solution…or water. If it’s feeding them full bore nutes then that’s a problem. I could never get away with doing nute top ups with the GH FloraNova series; I had to use plain water. Lots of folks use 30% strength solution to top up though, but not full strength.


----------



## Don't Bogart (Sep 10, 2021)

Don't Bogart said:


> Too much nutes then plants burn.
> They don't stop taking up nutes.
> Flush.


Flush.


----------



## rkymtnman (Sep 10, 2021)

DrHill said:


> EC = 860


try about half of that. you nute burned them. i'd give a 12 to 24hr flush and start back at maybe EC of 0.2 to 0.3


----------



## Don't Bogart (Sep 10, 2021)

rkymtnman said:


> try about half of that. you nute burned them. i'd give a 12 to 24hr flush and start back at maybe EC of 0.2 to 0.3


FLUSH! I repeat FLUSH. They won't die. Give them 2 days. Then creep up.
They may even give you a BJ.


----------



## DrHill (Sep 10, 2021)

MustGro said:


> The water temp is a bit high, 70 would be better.
> 44% RH is way too low for veg. Bump it up to 60 plus if you can.
> 430ppm is .86ec but nice try, the EC people on here will appreciate that.
> Plants look nute and maybe light burned. How about a link to your light?
> ...


https://www.migrolight.com/product/migro-aray-3/

here’s a link to my light. I have two of these. And i do ph’d water for my top ups. 
and what do you mean by what ratio am i using?


----------



## DrHill (Sep 10, 2021)

rkymtnman said:


> try about half of that. you nute burned them. i'd give a 12 to 24hr flush and start back at maybe EC of 0.2 to 0.3


thank you, I am going to empty everything out and just use plain tap for now.


----------



## rkymtnman (Sep 10, 2021)

DrHill said:


> thank you, I am going to empty everything out and just use plain tap for now.


do 12hrs with tap. then empty everything and do 12 more. then light nutes. baby steps.


----------



## DrHill (Sep 10, 2021)

Don't Bogart said:


> FLUSH! I repeat FLUSH. They won't die. Give them 2 days. Then creep up.
> They may even give you a BJ.


Okay, thanks. I am going to empty everything out now and replace with ph tap water


----------



## MustGro (Sep 10, 2021)

DrHill said:


> https://www.migrolight.com/product/migro-aray-3/
> 
> here’s a link to my light. I have two of these. And i do ph’d water for my top ups.
> and what do you mean by what ratio am i using?


The flora series is a 3 part and there are lots of different ways to mix it, like the Lucas system.
I don’t have much experience with it as I found it burned up my plants, but lots of members on here use it.


----------



## DrHill (Sep 10, 2021)

rkymtnman said:


> do 12hrs with tap. then empty everything and do 12 more. then light nutes. baby steps.


gotcha. I’m about to give that a try


----------



## rkymtnman (Sep 10, 2021)

DrHill said:


> Okay, thanks. I am going to empty everything out now and replace with ph tap water


less is more in hydro. 

GH makes $ by selling nutes.


----------



## DrHill (Sep 10, 2021)

MustGro said:


> The flora series is a 3 part and there are lots of different ways to mix it, like the Lucas system.
> I don’t have much experience with it as I found it burned up my plants, but lots of members on here use it.


i just used the ratio they have on the website
I’m using my iPhone right now but roughly estimating

i used about 80ml of micro, 72ml of gro, and 60ml of bloom. In total


----------



## MustGro (Sep 10, 2021)

All I have around is the printout I used when I ran the nutes before. For the Flora series it lists the dose as 2.5 ml per gallon of each of the 3 for a seedling. That gives you 350-400 ppm (.7-.8ec) depending on your water. That also includes 5ml of diamond nectar and 10 ml of flora blend a gallon to get that ppm number.
They really jump the ppm’s for week 2, 1050-1350. Without including the rest of the products in the line, the 3macros are, 7.5 ml of micro, 10 of gro and still 2.5 of bloom.
So in 20 gallons at the low dose it’d be 50ml of each bottle.
In 20 gallons at the second week dose it’s 150ml micro, 200 of gro, and 50 bloom. Pretty big numbers and not the same as the ones you used. I’m not saying they’re bad, actually yours look pretty good. It‘s just that you’re heavy micro and the old GH charts are heavier gro.


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## rkymtnman (Sep 10, 2021)

DrHill said:


> i just used the ratio they have on the website
> I’m using my iPhone right now but roughly estimating
> 
> i used about 80ml of micro, 72ml of gro, and 60ml of bloom. In total


i used 1:1:1 ratio for veg. it was pretty good i thought.


----------



## MustGro (Sep 10, 2021)

@DrHill I see in the last pic you posted that the solution looks pretty high. What level do you run the solution at?


----------



## MustGro (Sep 10, 2021)

rkymtnman said:


> i used 1:1:1 ratio for veg. it was pretty good i thought.


Do you still run it? I never had a bit of luck with the Flora series, but I loved the FloraNova base.
Probably because I used the fucked up GH charts for the Flora. Your 1:1:1 ratio is basically the seedling ratio. The second week one I posted is 3 parts micro, 4 parts gro and 1 part bloom, that’s way different. No wonder it didn‘t work.


----------



## rkymtnman (Sep 10, 2021)

MustGro said:


> Your 1:1:1 ratio is basically the seedling ratio


yep.

i haven't run it in a while: i had a bunch of free bottles of it from each waterfarm i bought. lol.


----------



## DrHill (Sep 10, 2021)

MustGro said:


> @DrHill I see in the last pic you posted that the solution looks pretty high. What level do you run the solution at?


I like to get it leveled right at the basket. I’m also trying to get that small one to bring its roots down into its bucket but it’s been a week and they still haven’t broken through the clay pebbles


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## DrHill (Sep 10, 2021)

I


DrHill said:


> I like to get it leveled right at the basket. I’m also trying to get that small one to bring its roots down into its bucket but it’s been a week and they still haven’t broken through the clay pebbles


I ran it higher than normal for that reason, thinking the small one’s roots weren’t getting water & oxygen


----------



## DrHill (Sep 10, 2021)

rkymtnman said:


> i used 1:1:1 ratio for veg. it was pretty good i thought.


I’m going to try that 1:1:1 when i start feeding again. Definitely going to start light though, maybe 25-30ml of each. 

It’s crazy that I thought I was slighlty under feeding. Glad you guys were here to help


----------



## MustGro (Sep 10, 2021)

DrHill said:


> I ran it higher than normal for that reason, thinking the small one’s roots weren’t getting water & oxygen


I’m not sure what the best fluid level is for RDWC. I usually try to get my aeroflo’s levels down pretty quick. You run the levels mostly real high though?


----------



## Aloha Haze (Sep 13, 2021)

Fluid lv is best kept at 1 to 4 inches below the net pot to facilitate air to the roots. You don’t want the lv touching the bottom of the pot if the roots are already through the bottom.


----------



## rkymtnman (Sep 13, 2021)

Aloha Haze said:


> Fluid lv is best kept at 1 to 4 inches below the net pot to facilitate air to the roots


what do you mean?


----------



## Aloha Haze (Sep 13, 2021)

rkymtnman said:


> what do you mean?


Answered MustGro’s question


----------



## rkymtnman (Sep 13, 2021)

Aloha Haze said:


> Answered MustGro’s question


i meant what you said about the 4 inch airgap?


----------



## Aloha Haze (Sep 13, 2021)

rkymtnman said:


> i meant what you said about the 4 inch airgap?


Fluid level in a RDWC needs to be below the bottom of the net pot.


----------



## rkymtnman (Sep 13, 2021)

Aloha Haze said:


> Fluid level in a RDWC needs to be below the bottom of the net pot.


forget it. i think you know where i was going. aloha means goodbye.


----------



## Aloha Haze (Sep 13, 2021)

Or Hello, 

Mahalo


----------



## DrHill (Oct 28, 2021)

Any help would be much appreciated. This is my 1st hydro grow; RDWC (6th or 7th grow overall).






I am not really sure what to do at this point. These two plants upfront have been giving me trouble throughout their entire veg cycle. Finally got fed up with their slow growth and switched to 12/12 on Oct. 24th. 
I tried to wait for them to catch up to the other two in height/width but they are just not doing much. Maybe I am doing something wrong, any insight is welcomed. 

Tent temp: 75 F
Lights off temp: 66 F
Current Humidity: 60%
Current PPM: 1080
Res PH: 5.5
Current Res temp: 71 F
Using GH Flora series and their moderate feed chart on website 

Last full res change was 10/17. Last top up was yesterday. Brought ppm up from 700 to 1000-1100. The only thing extra I add is hydroguard 2ml/gal

Front Strains: White truffle (L) & Marshmellow OG (R)
Back Strains: Terple 17 (L) & Ice Cream man #5 (R) 

All from pinkbox

Please help, I just want to bring out the full flowering potential that these plants have


----------



## DrHill (Oct 28, 2021)

Sorry, beginning of the post reads: 

"Any help would be much appreciated. This is my 1st hydro grow. 6th or 7th grow overall"


----------



## rkymtnman (Oct 28, 2021)

DrHill said:


> Current PPM: 1080


2 EC? you burnt them. they are nute locked now. flush and then start feeding much lighter


----------



## DrHill (Oct 28, 2021)

rkymtnman said:


> 2 EC? you burnt them. they are nute locked now. flush and then start feeding much lighter


Okay, what ppm should I be aiming for? 
the other plants seem to be wanting more and are thriving with current feeding regimen

I should also mention that I am using tap water and before adding anything to it the ppm reads right around 200


----------



## myke (Oct 28, 2021)

Your leaves are very Mg deficiency,add 50-100 ppm epsom salt.Or just add calmag.2 EC is high but you need the Mg. to go that high.


----------



## icetech (Oct 29, 2021)

DrHill said:


> Any help would be much appreciated. This is my 1st hydro grow;C (6th or 7th grow overall
> 
> Tent temp: 75 F
> Lights off temp: 66 F
> ...


I chased problems like that... for me it was too low of PH which i didn't realize til i found this chart (one like it, which i cant' find at the moment, but this is close enough) Anyway.. below 6 the uptake of a few minerals drops off drastically.. i used to run 5.5-5.8ish, i went to 6.0-6.3 i never had issues again.. worth a try and won't hurt anyway...


----------



## DrHill (Oct 29, 2021)

icetech said:


> I chased problems like that... for me it was too low of PH which i didn't realize til i found this chart (one like it, which i cant' find at the moment, but this is close enough) Anyway.. below 6 the uptake of a few minerals drops off drastically.. i used to run 5.5-5.8ish, i went to 6.0-6.3 i never had issues again.. worth a try and won't hurt anyway...
> View attachment 5018740


thanks! I will adjust when lights come on. That’s what I’ve been reading about and seeing videos of. “pH lockout”. Plus, everyone makes it seem as if 5.5 - 5.8 is the “sweet spot”. However, it has gave me problems with the two front plants, so i will definitely try this range moving forward


----------



## icetech (Oct 29, 2021)

DrHill said:


> thanks! I will adjust when lights come on. That’s what I’ve been reading about and seeing videos of. “pH lockout”. Plus, everyone makes it seem as if 5.5 - 5.8 is the “sweet spot”. However, it has gave me problems with the two front plants, so i will definitely try this range moving forward


 well.. it used to be said that 6-7 is the sweet spot then it seemed to drop, when i started DWC i had issues i just couldn't find then upped the PH to 6-6.2 (normally cause it will rise a bit over time) and i never had those issues again.. like i said.. if it's not right it won't hurt  But i would bet your plants will be much happier.


----------



## Don't Bogart (Oct 29, 2021)

Another item you can get is potassium hydroxide. Very potent. Be careful very caustic. Read directions and follow. Add with 2 parts calcium. Don't know what ratio with calmag.
But a great tool for upping ph.


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## rkymtnman (Oct 29, 2021)

DrHill said:


> Okay, what ppm should I be aiming for?


use your EC meter to tell you how to feed them. 
is your EC/ppm dropping on those bad looking plants? 

i like to see a slight drop everyday which means they are eating. and the water should drop a lot per day too


----------



## DrHill (Oct 29, 2021)

rkymtnman said:


> use your EC meter to tell you how to feed them.
> is your EC/ppm dropping on those bad looking plants?
> 
> i like to see a slight drop everyday which means they are eating. and the water should drop a lot per day too


So generally I just get a reading from the reservoir since it is a recirculating system. However, upon reading each individual bucket, ppm/EC has been the same across the board and lowering slightly everyday. 
Like I said, whatever I have been doing for the past 2-3 weeks, the plants in the back are really loving it.
The two up front are just tagging along, very slowly growing a few inches per week

About 30min ago I added roughly 15-20ml of pH up (pre-mixed with a small cup of water first) to my reservoir. Current reading is about 6.18 in all 5 buckets


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## myke (Oct 29, 2021)

You have root issues if you have to add ph up.If ph drops thats not a good sign,either feeding too much or root problems.


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## rkymtnman (Oct 29, 2021)

DrHill said:


> So generally I just get a reading from the reservoir since it is a recirculating system


that is one of the issues with rdwc with different strains. ppm that is good for strain X might not be good for strain Y. 

and you also can't tell if strain X is eating too. it might be nute locked and the ppm dropping is from the healthy plants only

and like @myke just asked, you sure you don't have any root issues on the bad plants?


----------



## DrHill (Oct 29, 2021)

myke said:


> You have root issues if you have to add ph up.If ph drops thats not a good sign,either feeding too much or root problems.


Well also consider that I was forcing my pH to be so low. I was constantly shooting for a range of 5.5-5.8 and using pH down to do so


----------



## icetech (Oct 29, 2021)

DrHill said:


> Well also consider that I was forcing my pH to be so low. I was constantly shooting for a range of 5.5-5.8 and using pH down to do so


 nice on the PH, give em a few days and see if they pick up.. if you notice any root issues at all add some Southern AG.. it's amazing.. i use a small bit during every top up (every few days) and never have root issues and also never change the water or any of that extra work.. no need if you keep your roots clean


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## DrHill (Oct 29, 2021)

rkymtnman said:


> that is one of the issues with rdwc with different strains. ppm that is good for strain X might not be good for strain Y.
> 
> and you also can't tell if strain X is eating too. it might be nute locked and the ppm dropping is from the healthy plants only
> 
> and like @myke just asked, you sure you don't have any root issues on the bad plants?


That could be a possibility, I can take pictures of roots and share with you all.

But definitely not going to do 4 different strains again, and certainly not dealing with the White Truffle. This run was mainly to see which strain would perform best in my environment (White Truffle or Terple). Plus, pinkbox threw in 2 freebies so I just ran those too


----------



## rkymtnman (Oct 29, 2021)

DrHill said:


> That could be a possibility, I can take pictures of roots and share with you all.
> 
> But definitely not going to do 4 different strains again, and certainly not dealing with the White Truffle. This run was mainly to see which strain would perform best in my environment (White Truffle or Terple). Plus, pinkbox threw in 2 freebies so I just ran those too


you said you are using GH feed schedule. what additives are you using along with the 3 part?


----------



## icetech (Oct 29, 2021)

DrHill said:


> That could be a possibility, I can take pictures of roots and share with you all.
> 
> But definitely not going to do 4 different strains again, and certainly not dealing with the White Truffle. This run was mainly to see which strain would perform best in my environment (White Truffle or Terple). Plus, pinkbox threw in 2 freebies so I just ran those too


 Well.. one big thing is don't make too many changes at one time.. plants react in DWC very fast so it's nice to know what works, the stuff i have shared with you took me a few years to learn..

Basically i run 2 tents, 2 plants per tent and i try to keep 1 strain in each tent... i cut clones right after going into flower (just a timing thing and they come out fine) and if i like the smoke i grow out the clones, if not i start new seeds of something else...

P.S. if you wanna see DWC shine make a bubble cloner.. I keep my clones in the bubblecloner for months and train them while waiting on the main plants to finish, so when you are ready to move them to the DWC setup you have a killer root system in place and have already topped once or twice.. My plants usually go into flower 2 weeks after they get in the tent this way


----------



## rkymtnman (Oct 29, 2021)

icetech said:


> Well.. one big thing is don't make too many changes at one time.. plants react in DWC very fast so it's nice to know what works, the stuff i have shared with you took me a few years to learn..
> 
> Basically i run 2 tents, 2 plants per tent and i try to keep 1 strain in each tent... i cut clones right after going into flower (just a timing thing and they come out fine) and if i like the smoke i grow out the clones, if not i start new seeds of something else...
> 
> P.S. if you wanna see DWC shine make a bubble cloner.. I keep my clones in the bubblecloner for months and train them while waiting on the main plants to finish, so when you are ready to move them to the DWC setup you have a killer root system in place and have already topped once or twice.. My plants usually go into flower 2 weeks after they get in the tent this way


that's what i started doing except from seed. get them ready to go into the flower room as soon as the first batch gets chopped.


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## DrHill (Oct 29, 2021)

Pictures of the roots on the smaller ones 1st pic is Marshmellow OG, 2nd is the White truffle.

The terple on the back left looks so nice, feel like she has been ready to flower weeks ago, but I have been trying to be nice to the slow girls up front


----------



## icetech (Oct 29, 2021)

Those roots are just perfection.. keep doing what you are doing and i am willing to bet with the slight ph increase the plants will get even happier


----------



## rkymtnman (Oct 29, 2021)

not a root problem for sure.


----------



## DrHill (Oct 29, 2021)

rkymtnman said:


> you said you are using GH feed schedule. what additives are you using along with the 3 part?


no additives right now. after all the reading and research on here I basically concluded that I would be fine with just 3-part GH and hydroguard. Atleast, that is what I kept reading.
I am about to run out soon though, and I have been considering ordering Canna Aqua Flores to use throughout the rest of flower.
Open to better suggestions on base nutrients and additives though. 
Also considered Jacks, but I think I would like to avoid dry amendments for now. Pouring liquids is so convenient


----------



## icetech (Oct 29, 2021)

DrHill said:


> no additives right now. after all the reading and research on here I basically concluded that I would be fine with just 3-part GH and hydroguard. Atleast, that is what I kept reading.
> I am about to run out soon though, and I have been considering ordering Canna Aqua Flores to use throughout the rest of flower.
> Open to better suggestions on base nutrients and additives though.
> Also considered Jacks, but I think I would like to avoid dry amendments for now. Pouring liquids is so convenient


 I'm a jacks guy.. so no help here  Cept losing hydroguard for AG.. think we already talked bout that though


----------



## rkymtnman (Oct 29, 2021)

DrHill said:


> no additives right now. after all the reading and research on here I basically concluded that I would be fine with just 3-part GH and hydroguard. Atleast, that is what I kept reading.
> I am about to run out soon though, and I have been considering ordering Canna Aqua Flores to use throughout the rest of flower.
> Open to better suggestions on base nutrients and additives though.
> Also considered Jacks, but I think I would like to avoid dry amendments for now. Pouring liquids is so convenient


GH 3 part is about as good as you can get liquid wise.


----------



## DrHill (Oct 29, 2021)

rkymtnman said:


> GH 3 part is about as good as you can get liquid wise.


What's "better"? including dry products
and what additives should be considered?


----------



## rkymtnman (Oct 29, 2021)

DrHill said:


> What's "better"? including dry products
> and what additives should be considered?


i use jack's RO formula, liquid kelp, liquid fulvic acid, liquid silica and southern ag GFF


----------



## icetech (Oct 29, 2021)

for me.. Jacks and AG from seed to smoke.. nothing else.

This was a older grow, 1 coco 1 dwc (i don't take many pics) same nute mix for both.. both happy.  (not near done though)


----------



## ducks13 (Nov 4, 2021)

Why does the Ph go down? First-time DWC. Foxfarm nutes. Set Ph at 6.5 and EC was at 1100 ppm mixed per FF instructions. Two buckets each with a different strain, in one the Ph drops in, the other one it doesn't. How come? Both are growing well but I keep having to add Ph up to keep it above 5.8 while the other one stays at 6.5.


----------



## OldMedUser (Nov 5, 2021)

ducks13 said:


> Why does the Ph go down? First-time DWC. Foxfarm nutes. Set Ph at 6.5 and EC was at 1100 ppm mixed per FF instructions. Two buckets each with a different strain, in one the Ph drops in, the other one it doesn't. How come? Both are growing well but I keep having to add Ph up to keep it above 5.8 while the other one stays at 6.5.


Why try to keep above 5.8? That's just fine for hydro and if anything I'd be trying to drop the 6.5 one. I got spoiled using pH Perfect nutes for my last 20 or so DWC grows. Just check ppm and add a little nutes as it dropped and never even change my nutes for the whole grow as changes didn't make any difference at all and wasted good nutes. Damned if I'm making those f'ers any richer than they already are.


----------



## Don't Bogart (Nov 5, 2021)

OldMedUser said:


> Why try to keep above 5.8?


You risk PH lock. And some nutes don't work well at such a low PH. 6.0 to 6.4.


----------



## icetech (Nov 5, 2021)

OldMedUser said:


> Why try to keep above 5.8?


I used to run 5.6-6.0 and was chasing issues that i couldn't solved.. switched to 6.0-6.5 and never had issues again.. if you look at the ph chart a few nutes drop off big around 5.8.. so why not just go up a little? 

P.S. there is ZERO downside to goin up .5 of a point.. so why not?


----------



## OldMedUser (Nov 5, 2021)

icetech said:


> I used to run 5.6-6.0 and was chasing issues that i couldn't solved.. switched to 6.0-6.5 and never had issues again.. if you look at the ph chart a few nutes drop off big around 5.8.. so why not just go up a little?
> 
> P.S. there is ZERO downside to goin up .5 of a point.. so why not?
> View attachment 5023037


That chart is more for soil grows. When I used non pH Perfect nutes my pH would rise over 3 days to about 6.3 and I'd knock it back to 5.5 or so with a few drops of conc. sulphuric acid every 3 days when I did my top-ups. That back and forth made sure that all nutes got some time at optimum and the plants really loved it.

This chart shows best pH ranges for soil and hydro but is lacking in data with the chopped off lines where absorption tapers off rather than begins and ends at a fixed point like the 2nd chart shows. 



Some nutes are more easily absorbed at a much lower pH too. As long as you are between 5 - 7 the plants can get everything to some extent tho 5.5 is about the lowest I'd want to have a hydro tank stay at for any length of time.



This is why chasing pH is often a waste of time but some people are real OCD about it when it's not that huge a deal unless you are way out of range.


----------



## icetech (Nov 5, 2021)

OldMedUser said:


> That chart is more for soil grows. When I used non pH Perfect nutes my pH would rise over 3 days to about 6.3 and I'd knock it back to 5.5 or so with a few drops of conc. sulphuric acid every 3 days when I did my top-ups. That back and forth made sure that all nutes got some time at optimum and the plants really loved it.
> 
> This chart shows best pH ranges for soil and hydro but is lacking in data with the chopped off lines where absorption tapers off rather than begins and ends at a fixed point like the 2nd chart shows.
> 
> ...


 AHH thank you!! i was looking for that second chart and just grabbed what i saw real quick


----------



## ducks13 (Nov 16, 2021)

Help. First time DWC, FF neuts, PPM+1100, Ph=6.5, 3 weeks flower. Some fan leaves started turning yellow a few days ago in an area that was exposed to more light from training. Now the yellow ones have wilted and almost the entire plant is drooping, looks like it needs water. Water level is about 1" below the net pot, same. The roots look good. Air temp is 68 to 79. Water temp is 69 to 72 but it did get up to 75 for less than 24 hours a few days ago.


----------



## OldMedUser (Nov 17, 2021)

Sudden drooping like that is generally from root rot cutting off the plants ability to get water. I'd be checking the roots again and looking for any dark areas in them. They don't always go slimy when they go bad. I think depends on the type of organism that is doing the rot and there are many.

Move your light further from the plant or dim it if that's an option and spray plain, preferably RO water, on the leaves getting the undersides good to keep the plant hydrated. If it looks like rot starting you'll need to dose it well with H2O2 or pool shock.


----------



## ducks13 (Nov 18, 2021)

Thanks OldMed!


----------



## MrErik (Dec 5, 2021)

potroast said:


> All right! Hydroponics is what I know, and hydroponics is the way I grow!
> 
> This forum will be great, we can discuss anything hydro. No dirtbags here, We haul water!
> 
> ...


What’s the easiest way to clone?? I have purple punch and agent orange and wedding cake that I’d love to keep cloning. Just tried the rapid rooters in a dome with heat pad?? What should my nutes be???


----------



## MrErik (Dec 5, 2021)

OldMedUser said:


> Sudden drooping like that is generally from root rot cutting off the plants ability to get water. I'd be checking the roots again and looking for any dark areas in them. They don't always go slimy when they go bad. I think depends on the type of organism that is doing the rot and there are many.
> 
> Move your light further from the plant or dim it if that's an option and spray plain, preferably RO water, on the leaves getting the undersides good to keep the plant hydrated. If it looks like rot starting you'll need to dose it well with H2O2 or pool shock.


Using pool shock?? Isn’t it I high dose of hydrogen peroxide?? And what’s the ratio please tell me. Thanks


----------



## PJ Diaz (Dec 5, 2021)

MrErik said:


> What’s the easiest way to clone?? I have purple punch and agent orange and wedding cake that I’d love to keep cloning. Just tried the rapid rooters in a dome with heat pad?? What should my nutes be???


No nutes for cloning.


MrErik said:


> Using pool shock?? Isn’t it I high dose of hydrogen peroxide?? And what’s the ratio please tell me. Thanks


Pool shock is chlorine. I'm sure if you search you can find a whole thread on it here with all the answers about Pool Shock and cloning.


----------



## OldMedUser (Dec 5, 2021)

MrErik said:


> Using pool shock?? Isn’t it I high dose of hydrogen peroxide?? And what’s the ratio please tell me. Thanks


I've only used 35% food grade peroxide so can't help you with the pool shock. Chlorine is unhealthy for plants or humans. 0.5ml/L twice a week for maintenance but 4ml/L daily for a few days to fight root rot. Then every 2nd day for a few more doses until you see healthy roots taking over. Remove any dead roots from the water or root balls before starting treatment. Generally best to do a nute change at 50 - 75% of what you had for nutes and no organics in there like beneficials or amino acids or the peroxide will be wasted destroying that stuff too.

Lots of aeration too!


----------



## MrErik (Dec 5, 2021)

OldMedUser said:


> I've only used 35% food grade peroxide so can't help you with the pool shock. Chlorine is unhealthy for plants or humans. 0.5ml/L twice a week for maintenance but 4ml/L daily for a few days to fight root rot. Then every 2nd day for a few more doses until you see healthy roots taking over. Remove any dead roots from the water or root balls before starting treatment. Generally best to do a nute change at 50 - 75% of what you had for nutes and no organics in there like beneficials or amino acids or the peroxide will be wasted destroying that stuff too.
> 
> Lots of aeration too!


Thank you very much. But I’ve also heard not to use salt based nutes??


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## Don't Bogart (Dec 5, 2021)

MrErik said:


> Thank you very much. But I’ve also heard not to use salt based nutes?


I'm of that thinking. Anything with sodium is a salt. Starts blocking nute uptake. Most chems I use are hydroxides. Careful when u play with them.


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## Failmore (Dec 5, 2021)

OldMedUser said:


> Chlorine is unhealthy for plants or human


Want site some sources for this info? You know full well this is not accurate.....


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## OldMedUser (Dec 5, 2021)

Don't Bogart said:


> I'm of that thinking. Anything with sodium is a salt. Starts blocking nute uptake. Most chems I use are hydroxides. Careful when u play with them.


There are thousands of salts that have no sodium. Hydroxides are alkaline salts where sodium hydroxide, (NaOH), is one and potassium hydroxide, (KOH) is another of many in the hydroxide family. All the minerals in most peoples tap water are in the form of salts. What about Epsom Salts, (Magnesium chloride or MgCl)?

In organic growing you need a good bioherd to convert the organic matter into something the plants can eat which are, drum roll please . . . salts.

Retired chemist here that grew his first buds in 1978.


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## OldMedUser (Dec 5, 2021)

Failmore said:


> Want site some sources for this info? You know full well this is not accurate.....


Look it up yourself and find out you Failedmore.

Chlorine is a known carcinogen for one thing but is still used to make water safe to drink as in tiny doses it saves many more lives than it harms.

Just like many drugs your doctor may prescribe can have side effects ranging up to and including death the risk is accessed against the risks involved with the disease it treats and if the disease risk is higher you get the drug.

Like chemo drugs. Deadly poisons most of them but hopefully they kill the cancer before they kill the patient.


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## Don't Bogart (Dec 5, 2021)

OldMedUser said:


> Hydroxides are alkaline salts where sodium hydroxide, (NaCl aka table salt), is one


Sodium hydroxide is not table salt. sodium chloride is.


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## OldMedUser (Dec 5, 2021)

Don't Bogart said:


> Sodium hydroxide is not table salt. sodium chloride is.


FIFY. My bad. Still on my first coffee and not quite awake yet.

Pink Himalayan sea salt has 94 mineral salts in it and we use that on our table along with good old iodized sodium chloride.

The point is you were wrong in saying that salts must have sodium and that the rest of the nutes are hydroxides.


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## Don't Bogart (Dec 5, 2021)

OldMedUser said:


> The point is you were wrong in saying that salts must have sodium and that the rest of the nutes are hydroxides.


NO.... go back and read. I said anything with sodium is a salt I didn't say all salts must have sodium.


OldMedUser said:


> Retired chemist here that grew his first buds in 1978.


Retired Cranky chemist.


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## Failmore (Dec 5, 2021)

OldMedUser said:


> Look it up yourself and find out you Failedmore.
> 
> Chlorine is a known carcinogen for one thing but is still used to make water safe to drink as in tiny doses it saves many more lives than it harms.
> 
> ...


Everything is a carcinogen when taken in strong enough doses. Do you know why every human thinks fake sugar is a carcinogen...because they jammed 1000000% the dose in mice. Now people say fake sugar gives you cancer. 

Now here you are saying if I jam 100000% the dosage in my plants ill get cancer. Who is failing here? 

Again...ill ask politely because it seems you are not capable of understanding your errors. 

Site your sources for your information that using chlorine in growing is bad....saying...do your own research is maga level dumb. If you truly are a chemist you are smarter than that. Show me....

Don't just say things because they make you feel good inside.


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## OldMedUser (Dec 5, 2021)

Failmore said:


> Everything is a carcinogen when taken in strong enough doses. Do you know why every human thinks fake sugar is a carcinogen...because they jammed 1000000% the dose in mice. Now people say fake sugar gives you cancer.
> 
> Now here you are saying if I jam 100000% the dosage in my plants ill get cancer. Who is failing here?
> 
> ...


I didn't say anything about using chlorine is particularly bad for the plants but less chlorine in any environment is a good thing so I use peroxide instead of chlorine. Nothing but oxygen and water. It takes a lot less than 100000% of chlorine to be harmful to living things.



Failmore said:


> Everything is a carcinogen when taken in strong enough doses


Patently false. Too much pure water can kill you but it won't give you cancer for one.

You don't seem to understand much at all and your reading comprehension skills sure need some work.

Most fake sugars are not good for you so like high fructose corn syrup I just don't buy anything that has either. You do you tho.

Thanks for playing.


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## Failmore (Dec 5, 2021)

OldMedUser said:


> You don't seem to understand much at all and your reading comprehension skills sure need some work.


What the fuck is your problem? Are you just a cunt? Grow the fuck up. Nobody is attacking you...yet here you are. Seriously evaluate your life. Attacking people on the internet is pathetic. Good day.


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## PJ Diaz (Dec 5, 2021)

OldMedUser said:


> Chlorine is unhealthy for plants or humans.


Huh? Chlorine is an essential nutrient for plants. Fact.


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## zzyx (Dec 5, 2021)

PJ Diaz said:


> Huh? Chlorine is an essential nutrient for plants. Fact.


True, a micro element for sure, but like anything, the appropriate amount is critical. What is the recommended ppm of chlorine that cannabis plants require?


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## PJ Diaz (Dec 5, 2021)

zzyx said:


> True, a micro element for sure, but like anything, the appropriate amount is critical. What is the recommended ppm of chlorine that cannabis plants require?


I have no idea, but it's not much. Perhaps a better question would be "how much is excessive?". The notion that chlorine is bad for plants makes about as much sense as saying that nitrogen is bad for plants. Sure, give them too much N and you will fry your plants, but that doesn't make it "bad for plants", which was the context of my statement.


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## rkymtnman (Dec 5, 2021)

zzyx said:


> What is the recommended ppm of chlorine that cannabis plants require?


0.1%


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## OldMedUser (Dec 5, 2021)

PJ Diaz said:


> Huh? Chlorine is an essential nutrient for plants. Fact.


In anything but minute quantities chlorine IS bad for plants and animals like us. The plants don't use chlorine they use chloride which is a negatively charged ion of 1 chlorine atom, Cl- whereas chlorine is a diatomic molecule that is a green, toxic gas. CL2.

Very different things with very different properties.

A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.

This proverb ‘A Little Knowledge Is A Dangerous Thing’ means a person is sharing his views with others and doesn’t have enough knowledge of a particular subject, especially medical, religion, or education field, it can lead to dangerous situations. People with limited experience can often mislead people. Innocent people or people with a lack of information may easily believe the person pretending to know everything because most of the time, they are very convincing. A person with a little information and knowledge can also become a cause of suffering and even death due to their overconfidence.


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## PJ Diaz (Dec 5, 2021)

OldMedUser said:


> In anything but minute quantities chlorine IS bad for plants and animals like us. The plants don't use chlorine they use chloride which is a negatively charged ion of 1 chlorine atom, Cl- whereas chlorine is a diatomic molecule that is a green, toxic gas. CL2.
> 
> Very different things with very different properties.
> 
> ...


Next time you are going to cut and paste from a website to try to act smart, at least put it in quotes. 

So, in your opinion, without Googling, how much Chloride is too much?


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## Incredible4Mr2E (Dec 25, 2021)

potroast said:


> All right! Hydroponics is what I know, and hydroponics is the way I grow!
> 
> This forum will be great, we can discuss anything hydro. No dirtbags here, We haul water!
> 
> ...


Honestly, I think they’re laughing at guys like me who haul endless buckets of water from the spring lol.


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## Tolerance Break (Dec 25, 2021)

PJ Diaz said:


> Next time you are going to cut and paste from a website to try to act smart, at least put it in quotes.
> 
> So, in your opinion, without Googling, how much Chloride is too much?


0.01 grams per gallon


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## rkymtnman (Dec 25, 2021)

Tolerance Break said:


> 0.01 grams per gallon


isn't that 1ppm ?


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## Tolerance Break (Dec 25, 2021)

rkymtnman said:


> isn't that 1ppm ?


I have literally no idea to be completely honest.


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## rkymtnman (Dec 25, 2021)

Tolerance Break said:


> I have literally no idea to be completely honest.


that made me LOL.


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## Tolerance Break (Dec 25, 2021)

rkymtnman said:


> that made me LOL.


Merry Christmas!


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## DrHill (Dec 28, 2021)

Wasn’t sure where else to go but I need some help please. This clone is giving me some trouble. Has a decent root system started but has not been growing much for the past 4-5 days and has been yellowing more each day.

been keeping ppm around 350-500. pH has ranged from 5.5-7.2 during the last week. I have been being more strict the past few days and trying to get it as close to 6 as I can.
I have played around with the ppm, i couldn’t tell if it was being overfed or underfed. Lights are dimmed to about 35%. Using jacks nutrients tap formula. Idk what’s wrong

2nd hydro run, please help. Don’t want to lose this cut, only surviving clone.


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## Mrblaze212 (Jan 6, 2022)

Too much light


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## Badjem (Apr 22, 2022)

dcyans said:


> Depends on the system bro I've done plenty of no flush grows and believe me I was dead against it for a long time until I started using Lucas's formula and recommended addbacks. you would think of course that some of the element salts would build up to toxic levels but it really doesn't come into play as you would thing when you properly manage your nutrient solutions. I will still recommend especially for beginners res changes every two weeks but not before that is only wasting nutrients as well as adding extra waste to the environment.


Was wondering g what is Lucas formula?


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## OldMedUser (Apr 22, 2022)

Badjem said:


> Was wondering g what is Lucas formula?


Lucas formula is a feeding method with 3-part nutrients where you don't use the Grow portion and for every 1ml of Micro you use 2ml of Bloom. This reduces the N so it doesn't retard flowering like too much N can do. I start feeding like that after the stretch period in DWC or soilless growing with ProMix HP. I like the AN pH Perfect nutes so I never have to screw around checking pH but you can do it with any 3-part nute.


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## Stomate (Dec 23, 2022)

OldMedUser said:


> In anything but minute quantities chlorine IS bad for plants and animals like us. The plants don't use chlorine they use chloride which is a negatively charged ion of 1 chlorine atom, Cl- whereas chlorine is a diatomic molecule that is a green, toxic gas. CL2.
> 
> Very different things with very different properties.
> 
> ...


This is well said amd I have absolutely been a victim of this multiple times trying to grow in an rdwc, amongst other aspects of life


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## Badjem (Dec 23, 2022)

Change ot up these Blue Dream is healthy coming up on week 8. Had to defoleat a bit have to get you some after pics. I am planning on trying a flushing agent by advanced nutrients called flawless finish. On this thread a lot of people goon my shit saying don't flush well what I say do you but I like to flush so it is what it is. last harvest I flushed with botanicare clearx and used botanicare sweet for taste came out perfect. But I am trying a diff approach on this one I will be flushing with flawless finish which has some nutes and essentials in it so the plant is not shocked when cutoff I always add sweet for taste ph5.8


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## gr865 (Jan 4, 2023)

This new Active Aqua Gro and Flo (ebb & flow) system is nice. Have had it since earlier this year but had health issues and lost a few grows do to not being able to pay attention to the grows. Healthy now, using it and I am loving it.
Had to retie today, every one of the ladies have added nodes and can handle another tie down.
     

Group shots, nice tie down, good even canopy.
 

All is going well.
As I am new to this grow system. Can't believe the growth now that the roots are well established. Have been growing in Coco/Perlite for years and wanted to try something new, this is one hell of a grow system. Still learning but getting it down.
Not sure when I will go into flower, would like for them to get some height so I can put a net above them for flowering and tying them to the net


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