# DIY E-Nail



## budbro18 (Feb 20, 2014)

So im surprised there isnt one of these already up on here, or any site for that matter, and figured ill make one.

First off let me start by thanking the people who brought the E-nail to the market and also the people who brought it to the people of the DIY community. Im not sure if this is in the right place. I was debating between the glass section and concentrate section. Itll get put in the right place either way.


For those of you who dont know what it is or havent seen them often heres a quick video.

[video=youtube;Pk0XPUgaiX8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pk0XPUgaiX8[/video]


So ever since someone posted a DIY E-nail project on reddit ive seen a ton of people making their own.

DIY E-NAIL Reddit

But with all these people making/wanting to make their own theres a surprising lack on info on the matter.

Now the actual components of an enail are pretty easy to find, the coil being the most difficult, and pretty easy to assemble. Figured someone would have made a video by now. The wirings not rocket science but personally i like seeing it from 10 different angles when im messing with electricity. In the right condition, .03 amps can kill ya so always *DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK AND BE SAFE!!!!!!*

Since i am embarking on the journey for myself i figured id chronicle my trials and tribulations. (hopefully there will be few)

Ill be making videos, posting pictures along with wiring diagrams, and hopefully reviews of the different hardware.

I am in the process of purchasing my first case of coils so if anyone is interested in building their own i have them for sale. 1, 2, 5, 25. However many you want. I will possibly be able to make enough for people to purchase a fully assembled e-nail so feel free to inquire. *(not sure if this violates any rules, i dont mean it to, i am not trying to make money off people just trying to help people get hard to get parts)*



The main reason i got into making my own was because of the outrageous prices people are charging for them. The lowest ive seen is $350-$375, some ranging in the 5-6 area. This is absurd. Im all for a profit motive, but a 5x markup on a very simple piece of equipment always rubs me the wrong way. Even if it took 12+ hours to fully assemble 1 unit, theyd still be making $20+ an hour. From what ive seen it may take 2-3 hours MAX for a scrub at soldering to assemble one and get it running. Like i said im all for making a living and profit motive, but this is borderline robbery.

Im shooting for a 200-250 price point and absolute MAX of $300 (plus free shipping) once i start experimenting with slightly higher quality internals. But if it gets rollin good i couldnt bring myself to charge over that. But thats all up in the air depending the supply/demand..



For this first round i will be going straight from the DIY instructions for all products needed(excluding case and possibly controller). After the first one is made and QC has been completed i will be modifying my set up to use different controllers/relays/connectors/etc... The internals ill be using for my first one are not bad quality and the change in parts is only to see if the few extra bucks for some "name brand" parts will benefit.

Feel free to comment, PM, and generally discuss any interests, negatives/positives, or ideas you may have. Anyone who has an e/d-nail i welcome your voice since ive only ever used one a few times and dont know any downsides that may arise from non-stop use/abuse. haha

Like i first said, i was very surprised there wasnt one of these on almost any of the forums, so here you go!!!


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## Texas(THC) (Feb 20, 2014)

ive been looking into it as well
cant wait to see the video


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## CalWax (Feb 20, 2014)

Good luck budbro! I hope you can get it all worked out and dial in a extremely affordable option to the competition.
At this point humboltenail on instagram sells a amazing affordable electric nail...It come with a year warranty on the box and 90 day warranty on the coil. A normal size around 350 the mini is around 425 and he tells a double enail for around 700. I was personally looking to diy my own enail but i didnt want to burn out coils when doing research and development. I know this guy runs his test rigs for hundreds of hours without shutting them off at temperatures much higher then you'd vape at and they appear to be rather durable and ACTUALLY AVAILABLE. Obviously youll be doing the same durability tests as well. My problem with most enail companys is they are over priced and supply is low. This guy humboltenail on instagram is killing it with affordable enails for half the price. I'm sure hes still making a killing not being totally greedy,. incase youre curious


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## matthend (Feb 20, 2014)

very interested in this too....


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## Sirdabsalot462 (Feb 20, 2014)

I've got one!!! 

For some reason Photobucket isn't loading atm.
But, I posted it in the &#8221; Awesomest Oil Rig&#8221; thread.

It's hooked to an electrical digital box in which you can control the temps in increments of 1° C.
The nail itself can be threaded into a dome adapter or as a male.

I like it...

But....

I'm back to the torch and Ti. .....

Something about it..... Novelty?..I dunno, it's cool as shit, but when I want to get high to get some sleep, torch is a necessity.


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## Texas(THC) (Feb 20, 2014)

damn im surprised to hear that SirDabs
im curious what temperature do you use?


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## Sirdabsalot462 (Feb 20, 2014)

I go pretty hot as I like the couch lock-narcotic effect....

So, for my night-time dabs I set it around 510° C= 1000° ish F

Great flavor and effect, but I like the torch better..
I can't really figure out why, but heating with the torch seems to have a more medicinal effect, while the E-nail just gets me super&#8221; high&#8221;

It's awesome for dabathon events however, we have one every month.

About 20-30 Colorado growers/dabbers gather round the dab station.
Yeeeeee..
I was lucky enough to have it donated to me, because of my disease...

Good times
Photobucket back up...












* I* would love to post up the box, but I can't jeopardize the gentleman's patent...
Totally DIY-able though...


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## midnitetoak (Feb 20, 2014)

Like like like saw this not long ago & was wondering when somebody would start up a thread on it


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## budbro18 (Feb 20, 2014)

Glad everyones interested!!! Im not tryin to make money just supply people with some easy shit.

I plan to use a controller similar to the humboldt enail, an auber 1/32 DIN i think he uses a different brand but its basically the same. I follow him though haha.

Also, gotta figure out if a 25a SSR by auber would work as well because they make some pretty nice stuff and im pretty sure its US based. Just gotta figure out if itd make a big difference with the output of the auber one being 90-480v but the recommended one from the DIY says to use one rated for 30-320v output. I dont think the higher end really matters but i think the lower end might. Because once it gets to temp it just has to flip on in lower doses to keep it there. 

The auber PID controller has a nice auto tune feature where you set it at the temp you want it at and it runs it in a few cycles from room temp back to the set temp then back to room temp. Then over shoots it then under shoots it. Supposed to take about 5-10 minutes depending on heat up and cool down time and it gets a sense of what type of heating device its being used for. 

I put in my order for coils tonight, making payment tomorrow morning when i got the money in the bank and hopefully in less than 2 weeks ill have the coils!

Gonna start shoppin around for a box to put em in. I like the humboldt enails boxes with all the colors and the nice size of them as well. 

Will post pictures ASAP


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## Sirdabsalot462 (Feb 20, 2014)

@budbro... I will ask my acquaintance about his DIY setup, he is like you, hates setting peeps paying outrageous prices for something that has medicinal value.If he gives me the green light, I'll pm you the specs/pics of the box .If you would like..?


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## lio lacidem (Feb 21, 2014)

These things look like a nifty idea but i just dont think i would spend between 350-700 just so i can be lazy and not use torch? Am i missing something?


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## budbro18 (Feb 21, 2014)

lio lacidem said:


> These things look like a nifty idea but i just dont think i would spend between 350-700 just so i can be lazy and not use torch? Am i missing something?


You can make your own for about 100-150 ish im trying to make them for sale for around 200-250.

theyre more for people who dab alot with friends or just dab alot.... like sirdabsalot hahaha

But for me theres always at least 3-4 people chillin when im smokin and we usually just heat the nail super hot so the first person can take a dab pass it to the second they can take one and occasionally we can get a 3rd person off 1 heat but its a tough thing to juggle.

Even if you dont dab alot or with friends, late night/early morning dabs when the lady/family is asleep. No more jet engine roar from the torch wakin people up haha.

And they dont use a bunch of power except on start up so it wouldnt be expensive to keep it plugged in for a few hours just ready whenever.



@sirdabsalot, feel free to send me whatever. Ive got some good pictures and some friends who are making them too but more never hurts!!!

Made my coil payment not too long ago so the count down starts now! 3-5 days to make them then 3-5 days til they get here so 7-10 days hopefully!!!


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## Texas(THC) (Feb 21, 2014)

so I use my buddies quite often and he sets his around 800F
he also uses a special dabber that fits over the nail with a built in carburetor
it basically allows him to vape at lower temps while the special dabber sits on top of the nail preventing loss of smoke I the ar
does anyone use this or know what im taking about?
haven't seen anyone else use them


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## budbro18 (Feb 21, 2014)

Texas(THC) said:


> so I use my buddies quite often and he sets his around 800F
> he also uses a special dabber that fits over the nail with a built in carburetor
> it basically allows him to vape at lower temps while the special dabber sits on top of the nail preventing loss of smoke I the ar
> does anyone use this or know what im taking about?
> haven't seen anyone else use them



Yeah they call em carb caps. Alot of dabbers have em built on the end now a days for dabbing fullmelt or like you said low temp dabs.

Some of the controllers/coils are set up different. Ive seen people set to 1000f but the heating element isnt that actual temp. All depends if the thermocouple on your coil is the same as the setting types on the PID.

The coils im going to get have a k-type thermocouple which is from -200-1200 i think. Theres a whole list of all the different types and what theyre meant for highs and low. so if you set it to a different thermocouple setting it might be acting differently and i think this is the main problem with knowing the actual temp.

The newer ones ive seen are probably more accurate to the real life temp than the original ones i saw where people set em to 1200 and 1000 on the regular.

And this doesnt mean anything really. As long as the heat/cool cycle is on point where its not over shootin/under shootin too much itll make your coil last and once you start dabbin you could probably dial in the temp alot easier.


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## Fadedawg (Feb 22, 2014)

lio lacidem said:


> These things look like a nifty idea but i just dont think i would spend between 350-700 just so i can be lazy and not use torch? Am i missing something?


Envision sitting at a corner cafe and taking a dab using a blow torch, and the attention that would attract. 

Envision plugging in a medical vaporizer, pressing a plunger to inject the sample, and both drawing vapors into your lungs and exhaling through the medical vaporizer mouthpiece sitting at the same table.

I plan to build one, because it looks less like a meth pipe to the uninformed, and more like a medical vaporizer. Abroad it can be a medical vaporizer and at home it can be a discrete box with a closed lid sitting on an end table in the living room. 

Set up with a check valve so that when you blow the vapors back into the box, they are scrubbed with activated charcoal before they enter the room, and maybe even scented with the sweet fragrance of puppy breath.

The box could be designed to look like anything from a stack of books to a radio cabinet. Hee, hee, hee........................

As already noted, decent sized torches are not supportive of quiet conversation, listening to the TV, or the wifmate's sleep. I really like my domeless nail, but am looking for a good alternative.


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## budbro18 (Feb 22, 2014)

Well done FD

Gave me some good ideas too! Incognito E-nail!!!

Thatd be soooo cool. Make it look like a radio like you said or even a portable hard drive if i can make them as small as @humboldtenail does.

Real short coil that retracts into the body like a hair dryer. hahaha as well as the power cord. 

Thatd be a good one.

Ill try to throw up a pictures of what the coils im gettin look like but the pictures are all off instagram so theyre SUPER down rezd

They look pretty standard though. Not the super skinny ones, not the ones that bee hive. Just standard ass coils.


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## budbro18 (Feb 22, 2014)

Coils that are on the way!!!


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## CalWax (Feb 23, 2014)

budbro, how much did you end up paying for your coils?


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## lio lacidem (Feb 23, 2014)

Fadedawg said:


> Envision sitting at a corner cafe and taking a dab using a blow torch, and the attention that would attract.
> 
> Envision plugging in a medical vaporizer, pressing a plunger to inject the sample, and both drawing vapors into your lungs and exhaling through the medical vaporizer mouthpiece sitting at the same table.
> 
> ...


Now that would definately interest me. The ones ive seen so far went right on a water pipe and were nothing like you just described.


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## budbro18 (Feb 23, 2014)

CalWax said:


> budbro, how much did you end up paying for your coils?



$280 shipped. Plus a few bucks for the paypal transfer. Cant remember if they paid it or i did. Either way thats only a few bucks.

The picture above isnt me holding my coils. Theyre still being manufactured as we speak. But the picture is from the person who im buyin the coils through. 


Lately ive been lookin for a quartz thats made to hold an e-nail but the only ones ive found are $130-$200. FUCK THAT!!!

Pay more for the nail then i am for the whole DIY box. Joel halen chargin excessive amount for his honey holes when they dont take anything special to make and he can bust em out in like 15 minutes. I refuse to pay people hundreds of dollars an hour for something like that. In reality hes making 800 per hour of work which is one thing if youre busting out a hitman piece but for a 15 minute quartz honey hole. I call BULLSHIT!!!


So im in the process of talking to a quartz blower to recreate one of them and hopefully get a bunch goin for a reasonable price.


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## budbro18 (Feb 23, 2014)

this top is 16mm OD with 18mm female fitting for 18mm male joints

View attachment 3003511


And this is the same 16mm OD nail with 14mm female for 14mm male joints.



And for some reason these things cost an arm and a leg and let me tell you i like using all my limbs.

(sorry for the double post it wouldnt let me upload these pictures in the last reply)


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## Sirdabsalot462 (Feb 23, 2014)

The silence or rather lack of the roar of the torch, at first thought to be the  fix for the problems that arise in the midst of the night, when one half of the marriage must medicate via vaporization of hash oil.

Here is what I personally experienced,

The quiet dabs were ok at first, until I really got a hold of the nuances involved with the enail, and I was literally billowing vapors that would  fish-bowl the entire bedroom with oil vapor.

This proved to be more irritating than the sound of my mini torch which is much more quiet than my Bonjour Creme brulee torch (Vector's Nitro Torch, without the  branded price point)..

The proverbial picture GW painted above is a perfect solution for this specifically..

My dab session before sleep is definitely heavy, usually I will portion out my dabs that I feel I will need to drift off into a pain free slumber...usually 5 dabs are prepared, increasing in size, smallest to largest.

This done in a  rapid fire capacity...dab, exhale dab, repeat... Usually I can't make it to the last two dabs..

I've unknowingly gotten my wife really high from the resulting vapors.

Thank you for the suggestion brother GW 

If I can create a  smoke buddy type device for expended vapor...would be awesome for the 3 am pain spikes I often experience.


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## budbro18 (Feb 23, 2014)

http://www.amazon.com/Black-smokebuddy-Jr-Personal-Filter/dp/B009V16BM0/ref=pd_sim_hg_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=075SNKSBGZWEJRJCDJR1

Ive seen chubbs use these ones ^^^ supposed to work pretty well.


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## matthend (Feb 24, 2014)

budbro18 said:


> this top is 16mm OD with 18mm female fitting for 18mm male joints
> 
> View attachment 3003511
> 
> ...


So these are going to be what the coil goes around and heats?
Still a VERY interested observer to this!


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## budbro18 (Feb 24, 2014)

Thats my plan at least. If i get to talk to this quartz blower and can get them at a reasonable price.

If not probably a knock off infinity nail or one of these ceramic nails 

http://www.domeless.com/products/product-details/#cid=372225




Theyre also making a new version of it thats a lot like the quartz piece i posted before with a skinnier but taller dish so the coil can go around it. Supposed to be more sturdy as well. 

The ceramic one right there^ are supposed to last longer with e-nail than torches as well and theyre on sale. $30 for the set and it comes with another replacement dish.

And replacement dishes are $10 for a 2 pack. Pretty good deal if ya ask me. 

Ive seen some worn out ass TI nails.


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## budbro18 (Mar 1, 2014)

Coils should be in monday/tuesday. 

Here are my parts list so far: 

PID:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=14





http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=9





Power inlet + fuse + switch:

http://www.amazon.com/Amico-IEC320-Module-Rocker-Switch/dp/B008DS1NC0




Power cord:

http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-6-Feet-Replacement-Power-Cord/dp/B00000J1UQ/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_3


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## budbro18 (Mar 1, 2014)

So thats all of the main parts minus some connectors and wires but those are gonna be bought as needed. Probably need a few different kinds. 

plus a plug, debating between din or xlr. 

Im not for sure buying them all online probably gonna go to radio shack or micro center since i have friends workin at both.

So far its a little less than 75 ish dollars plus a case and the little odds and ends. So even with high quality parts it still costs under 100 for the internals.

Stay tuned for more. Gonna be making a video as soon as i order the internals and start assembly!!

First video will probably be how to wire your coil to the DIN/XLR.


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## vertibam (Mar 1, 2014)

I'll be following u brotha. I already built my first enail but was looking to build something with higher quality parts for my friends. I have all the same parts already on the way. Plus my coils if u end up needing an extra. Have u drawn up a wiring diagram to include the fuse yet. That is the only part I'm unsure of.


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## vertibam (Mar 1, 2014)

Here is the link to the original wiring diagram I used for my first enail. http://i.imgur.com/KK6VQn8.jpg


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## budbro18 (Mar 1, 2014)

That's the one I'm goin off its a little different because the controller I'm getting is a little different on the back.

the fuse is part of the switch/power inlet so you just have to wire it between the power and the switch. Not 100% sure 10 amps is enough but it should be.

ive been lookin at some flat coils people were messin with for better heat dispersion for the infinity type nails. Looks promising.


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## vertibam (Mar 1, 2014)

I just saw those this morning! Now I just gotta try to source some. I'm interested to see your progress. I love my enail so much. It's empowering to be able to say you made it yourself.


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## budbro18 (Mar 1, 2014)

Hell yeah ill talk to the guy who gets mine and see if he can get something arranged.

Im a big DIYer whenever possible. Hopefully gonna make a quad copter this summer when its nice enough to fly em regularly. Always wanted to do some mic mods as well but dont have anyone i know interested in them enough to make me do it.


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## CalWax (Mar 2, 2014)

will you eventually have to "tune" this pid?


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## budbro18 (Mar 2, 2014)

CalWax said:


> will you eventually have to "tune" this pid?



Well it has an auto tune function on it. Most/alot of PIDs do but im not 100% sure if ill need to do any other tuning.

With this one you basically set auto tun to run, set the temp youre mostly going to be at (between 5-7 ish) and it runs it through a process.

Lets it get to room temp, then heats it up to the designated temp at a medium rate, then lets it cool down back to room temp, then over shoots by a little, back to room temp, under shoots by a little, back to room temp, then right back to the set temp and holds it there for a few minutes. Gets a good sense of the thermocouple and heating element size. So itll probably be pretty quick since the heating element is so small most of these things are made for ovens and kilns so theyre probably used to runnin auto tune for an hour or so to get such a big area up to temp. 

Heres a video of another PID running auto tune. Pretty boring but you get the idea. 

[video=vimeo;42202506]http://vimeo.com/42202506[/video]



There are P I and D setting on the orignial DIY page that i can always reference if the auto tune doesnt work as well on my controller as it does with the one in the video.

Absolute worse case scenario i have a friend in school for electrical engineering whos crazy at math so he should know about the whole PID equation.


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## budbro18 (Mar 5, 2014)

Coils are in! Gonna try to order my internals tomorrow. Probably be here by monday.

Gettin the wire connectors from radio shack/micro center. Solder and soldering iron from harbor freight just so i have one of my own.

Still waitin on a project box until i get all of my pieces and do a rough layout on a piece of wood. Id like to do something similar to the D-nail and make a wood one but ill have to wait to do that for my own personal box haha. 

















Any questions let me know. Should start makin the videos once i get my internals!!! Do a layout and kind of half explain everything to the level that i know it. Its pretty easy, except for the actual PID algorithm, but that should be solved by the auto tuner.


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## SxIstew (Mar 6, 2014)

Subbed....


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## budbro18 (Mar 6, 2014)

Glad to have ya along!!! 2 coils gone, only 1 or 2 left depending on how many boxes i plan to make.


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## WarMachine (Mar 6, 2014)

Very interesting! Good luck bud bro! Hope you much success!I was thinking of making something similar a few moons ago using a soldering gun but I could never really get it work well at all. It was to much of a highdea (high idea lol). It was pretty different than this but I think you'll be a success!


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## budbro18 (Mar 6, 2014)

Thansk man! This is pretty proven science at this point. Only tricky thing is dialing in the PID algorithm to best suit your coil without burning it out or fucking anything up.

I was trying to make a super cheap diy one with just some resistance wire and a dimmable led ballast. Very dangerous highdea haha

Id encourage you to join its a very very simple build. Like i said hardest part is once youve assembled everything to dial in the controller.


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## jdee (Mar 6, 2014)

Just completed my diy enail today, working real good with the carb cap. Much flavor. Love that you get like 5 hits out of a single dab..and when you aren't hitting it the vapor doesn't escape, or perhaps is not being created until you hit it seems..  Using xlr connector with type k tc, pid setting P=53.2 I=10.5 D=2.12


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## budbro18 (Mar 6, 2014)

Looks good thanks for the PID settings. Do you know how much it changes due to different coil size?? Im assuming the coils are nearly identical just never know what a half turn extra or less of coil can do. Also how fragile are the coils? So if you type in the wrong settings will if fuck them up hard??

Also like the piece too. Looks perfect for a daily driver.

Also i think im going to use mini xlr for mine. I really like components that mount without any screws or bolts. Only problem is finding everything thats made for the same size wall thickness if it has clips. And to find screw mount components like the xlr/mini xlr. 

Any problems you ran into that youd like to share so we dont??


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## LiquidJunglist (Mar 7, 2014)

budbro18 said:


> Well it has an auto tune function on it. Most/alot of PIDs do but im not 100% sure if ill need to do any other tuning.
> 
> With this one you basically set auto tun to run, set the temp youre mostly going to be at (between 5-7 ish) and it runs it through a process.
> 
> ...


Ok so you put it in auto tune - set the average temp desired - then it goes through the auto tune. I was kinda curious about this part. I'm going to use the same PID some I'm glad your doing the same project.

SUBBED, glad to be back on the forum.


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## Fadedawg (Mar 7, 2014)

Hee, hee, hee, my coil arrived today, and I already have an order of PID controllers enroute, so am looking for the enclosure. I'm thinking something re-purposed, so as to be suitable for all company, when left on an end table in the living room. Maybe Goodwill...........................


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## jdee (Mar 7, 2014)

Just a heads up if using the TA4 pid "*NEVER* hold down the blue autotune button on the TA4 controller as this PID controller will try to set the parameters it thinks it needs to use. This has resulted in burned out coils since the controller will overshoot the temperature greatly. This is a known issue with these units"

Only issue was not having a soldering iron tip small enough to wire the xlr panel mount connector, other than that everything was pretty straightforward. Dremel box (not like a pro...) make wiring harness using the required ring terminals, female spade terminals and male spade terminals. Connected everything as per the connection diagram. The neon light on my power button blew first time turning it on, other than that everything works great.

Using P=30 I=10.5 D=2.12 now since someone mentioned they like it better, I had to try it but not sure I can see much of a difference..perhaps it overshoots by a smaller margin with this setting when the temp slightly drops due to usage/vaping.


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## budbro18 (Mar 7, 2014)

Thanks for the info! I feel like if i ran the auto tune function id set it so much lower than the target temp. Something like 3-4 hundred maybe. Possibly lower to be safe and work my way up to the full temp to make sure it doesnt over shoot too much. I tried looking for the controller in the video but it comes as the whole kit you see there.

Ive seen some companies recently making them into book looking cases so you can just throw them up on the shelf and no one would know. Also a company that makes mini ones that are pretty damn small. Like hand sized. haha. Mines gonna be small but im waitin until i get all the parts to buy my case.

That pid you just posted looks almost exactly thesame as the one on the DIY page. Do you think if i set those PID settings first then ran auto tune it would maybe keep it in check? I doubt it but who knows. 

Glad we got some fellow builders. You guys seen the flat coils they got lately?? Might have to make my next order some of them.


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## LiquidJunglist (Mar 7, 2014)

Like this coil works one? There mega sick here PRINTS his own cases in a 3D printer I do believe. Glad I found this thread, thanks for starting it budbro.


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## budbro18 (Mar 7, 2014)

Yup im on instagram so i see alot of e-nail makers and follow them i like the 3d printed ones but id prefer a molded case because as of now quality 3d printers capable of making layers as one very solid piece are very expensive. I dont doubt they have a good one but it seems its an extrusion one vs an epoxy print head spraying into a bin of plastic powder. I wanted to get a 3d printer and just make iphone cases to pay it off but thatll have to wait haha. 

Also, fuck @humboldtenail. He tries to claim ownership to everyones e-nail who makes them like the one im planning to make. Anyone who uses a 1/32 din pid gets blown up by him and he calls them rip off scammers even though he ripped the idea from task at HE. Who in reality just took a soldering iron controller/oven/kiln controller and made his own heating coil for. This humboldt enail guy just posted a picture of the flat coils the other day saying he cant wait to try them even though domeless.com (@domelessdameon i think) posted pictures of them almost a month ago. Hes free to steal everyone elses ideas but dont dare steal his. Especially when there are a limited amount of "project boxes" available online. Just through my own searches i found everything he uses in his without ripping anything from his design.

Enough on the rant. haha

I was surprised that a diy enail thread wasnt started yet. Theres the one from reddit but i figured with how easy it was thered be afew threads on here or at least GC or ICmag. Also i dont go on reddit much myself but am an active forum poster/internet user so i assumed im not the only one who rarely goes on there. 

I also like doin videos and have a pretty good camera so i can take good pictures and videos. I know myself, and i am very insecure when it comes to working with electricity. Even wiring up my DIY ballast from HTG i quadruple checked it before pluggin it in. Watched like 7 videos of other people doing it haha. I dont fucks with electricity.

So i understand how others must feel thinking "lets put an electrical device with enough current to kill me on a metal nail thats close to water and also close to my face" haha.

Well parts should be here sometime next week and assembly will begin!!!


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## LiquidJunglist (Mar 7, 2014)

Lol your good brov were in the same boat. Ya I don't like how he claims to have invented it. And the small cases he use are there on Auber's website. Lol

were def looking at the same pages. I'll pm you my IG and KIK brov.


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## biblee (Mar 7, 2014)

Heres a shot of my homebrew enail


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## LiquidJunglist (Mar 7, 2014)

Ya I like the domeless setup. I've talked to a dealer in China and they can make them just like those flat coils. But another user ordered some....


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## LiquidJunglist (Mar 7, 2014)

biblee said:


> Heres a shot of my homebrew enail



What brand nail is that on your set up?


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## biblee (Mar 7, 2014)

highly educated


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## budbro18 (Mar 7, 2014)

Hell yeah thats a nice little set up you got.I just want to make mine as reliable as possible so thats why im going with the on/off switch with the fuse and power inlet all in one. Leave the front face open for the controller and maybe the plug for the coil. No on/off lights or lights to tell you when its up to temp. very simple.

We got a guy over there. Seen a few people get em on IG. Domeless.com has them for sale for a reasonable price too but youd have to cut off the connector or wire yours to their specifications. I really want one of the new domeless ceramic nails theyre coming out with. Perfectly made for the e-nails. And ceramic so no need to worry about fake ti or shitty glass fucking up. Or overpriced ti/quartz 


I really need to find a glass blower who fucks with quartz. im tryin to get those d-nail quartz domeless nails made for well under 100+ as well which is ridiculous that they sell them for that much. Anyone know one/is one let me know!!! Help out the cause. haha.


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## LiquidJunglist (Mar 7, 2014)

You need to search out a blower in Asheville there are so many there.


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## LiquidJunglist (Mar 7, 2014)

I've been looking at the High tech Titanium Domeless the guy was cool to tell me the diameter of the nail(5/8")even tho I'm not buying his enail. It's a cool design but that Coilworks one I posts is identical to the HE Infiniti Nail and a killer price.


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## budbro18 (Mar 7, 2014)

The coils i have are 16mm or 5/8" ID so thats what most e-nail ones are for. I heard HE is supposed to have a nail that just came out that is made for e-nails and only 80 bucks which is alot more reasonable than the 120+ youd pay for the infinity.


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## biblee (Mar 7, 2014)

budbro18 said:


> I really need to find a glass blower who fucks with quartz. im tryin to get those d-nail quartz domeless nails made for well under 100+ as well which is ridiculous that they sell them for that much. Anyone know one/is one let me know!!! Help out the cause. haha.



I really had a hard time trying to wrap a coil around a quartz domeless nail. I broke a few in the process. I'm searching for a ceramic to fit my needs, but I have heard that some easily break with the coil wrapped tight.


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## budbro18 (Mar 7, 2014)

Have you seen the d-nail ones?? Theyre very sturdy. Theyre on the first page i posted 2 of them an 18 and 14 mm one. 

Seems like theyve held up pretty well. Theyre probably a little more sturdy than the other domeless quartz nails i think youre thinking of.


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## budbro18 (Mar 7, 2014)

These are the ones im thinkin about the first image has the post coil in the image so its not a good representation of what im going to use it for.


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## nme (Mar 8, 2014)

biblee said:


> Heres a shot of my homebrew enail


What size coil are you using with that HE dualti nail? I have the same nail and might go the same route...thanks.


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## biblee (Mar 8, 2014)

I think it was 21mm to begin with. I can send you a link directly, I just am not aware of the forum rules pertaining to hyperlinking products for sale.


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## biblee (Mar 8, 2014)

budbro18 said:


> Have you seen the d-nail ones?? Theyre very sturdy. Theyre on the first page i posted 2 of them an 18 and 14 mm one.
> 
> Seems like theyve held up pretty well. Theyre probably a little more sturdy than the other domeless quartz nails i think youre thinking of.



I know I had shitty quartz to begin with because I thought I would break them. My vice to wrap the coil has to clamp to something and the coil isn't really an option. The clamp would either crack the quartz or not hold it in place. I was looking for a snug fit around the glass so I wouldn't come across another fire hazard.

I wouldn't be surprised if the d nail quartz wasn't wrapped snug by the coil. I've never seen one in person so I don't really know. My only idea at the time was to have a glass blower make the quartz nail around the coil.


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## greenghost420 (Mar 8, 2014)

Nice thread! Any links where i can educate myself thoroughly about e and d nails?


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## budbro18 (Mar 8, 2014)

With the D-nail quarts pieces they fit around the actual domeless nail and sit on a platform below them so that they dont wobble or need to be screwed into place like with the TI ones.

This also helps because instead of heating the post it heats the actual nail and walls so it would make it slightly more effecient and probably tax your coil/box a little less.

Heres what they look like if you didnt see on the first page. 





^^^ You slide the coil around the outside of the top part of the nail and it rests on that little ledge. On a normal domeless quartx this would be hard and all of the torque from the coils cord would be pullin on one side of the nail and easily break it because it is floating not resting. Check out some of bubblemans shit on youtube he uses his enail alot and makes very good videos. 



greenghost, theres a link to the REDDIT DIY ENAIL page on the first page of this thread, actually in my first post. But if you want more detailed info id just look up different PID controllers and the whole PID meaning/function. Unless youre a wiz at math itll make your head spin. Its not super complicated when its broken down because all youre doing is trying to find a constant and consistent "frequency" that will cause your coil to hover at the exact temp you want it. 

Kind of like with a helicopter. You gotta give it enough gas to counteract gravity while not holding it too high as to continue to rise. Except they make it into a long equation with a bunch of symbols and numbers and i failed math in HS so alot good thatll do me.


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## biblee (Mar 8, 2014)

I saw that quartz dome less but it still scares me if you can slide the coil off from the top. I have dogs mobbin around the house and my rig has tipped over before. I have it setup on my rig so when it does tip over the hot coil won't hit anything when tipped. By no reason am I trying to neh saying the d nail design but it still has me concerned.


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## budbro18 (Mar 8, 2014)

biblee said:


> I saw that quartz dome less but it still scares me if you can slide the coil off from the top. I have dogs mobbin around the house and my rig has tipped over before. I have it setup on my rig so when it does tip over the hot coil won't hit anything when tipped. By no reason am I trying to neh saying the d nail design but it still has me concerned.




haha i feel ya. In that case youre better off boltin everything to your table, rig included. Theres not a nail i can find, except the ceramic one above, that has any type of protector sleeve on it. 

Were workin on gettin the flat coils which will greatly diminish the exposed surface area of the coil but thats the best chance youd have as of now.

Theres a few brands that copied HE like dabjoy that make something like a protector sleeve thing around it. ive been lookin for a ceramic sleeve to go around it but even that would heat up just as hot as teh coil/nail either way.


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## nme (Mar 8, 2014)

biblee said:


> I think it was 21mm to begin with. I can send you a link directly, I just am not aware of the forum rules pertaining to hyperlinking products for sale.


Message me with the link please....thank you.


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## biblee (Mar 8, 2014)

I thought of the protective sleeve as well. I couldn't find anything to disperse the heat well enough. The closest thing I came to was an aluminum heatsink for a CPU. That was then big and clunky though.


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## budbro18 (Mar 8, 2014)

Yeah i feel like the heatsink would be working against you and probably wear out your coil alot quicker since itd have to run at a higher temp more constantly since that heat was being bled off so quickly.

Until disposable/stronger coils come around to where we can press a button, heat the nail, take the dab, let go, and the nail instantly cools, it doesnt seem like theres gonna be any real problem solver. Maybe another layer of quartz around the D-nail type nail would work but only so much for so long. Itll eventually all heat up to a hot enough temp to melt/burn stuff. shouldnt be able to really ignite anything from a drop or a spill for like 30 seconds. Some charred carpet, maybe some toasted wood. haha. 

One company makes one like i described but theyre really expensive and not sure on the longevity of them.


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## greenghost420 (Mar 8, 2014)

thanks! im good at math and electronics so i love this thread already lol


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## greenghost420 (Mar 8, 2014)

how are you guys sourcing the coils?


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## greenghost420 (Mar 8, 2014)

i see theres sites selling em nevermind


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## budbro18 (Mar 8, 2014)

a friend from instagram has a relative over in china who works at a plant. But yeah allibaba and a few e-nail makers have em for sale. They would probably just take longer to ship. 

Mine had a 3-5 day production wait then shipped from china to here in under 3 days. so about a week max was pretty nice spent no time in customs really. 

Maybe you can look at the PID algorithm and let me know what you can do. haha.


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## nme (Mar 8, 2014)

LiquidJunglist said:


> Coilworks one I posts is identical to the HE Infiniti Nail and a killer price.


Has anyone tried the coilworks nail?


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## greenghost420 (Mar 8, 2014)

lol ill see what i can do


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## budbro18 (Mar 9, 2014)

I havent tried/seen the coilworks nail but ive seen that Highly Educated just came out with these ones but i cant find them ANYWHERE yet!














Theyre lookin really good and i think only 80 or 90 bucks which is alot nicer than the 150 dollar infinity nail and it is made/uses the coils heat alot better.

But i have yet to see any on any site for sale.


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## LiquidJunglist (Mar 9, 2014)

There wholesale only from what Taskrok posted on his IG. I think maybe we could get a group buy what you think?


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## budbro18 (Mar 9, 2014)

Damn it i was pretty sure thats what it was but was hoping that it wouldnt be. So theyll be the usual 150 after websites and headshops put their markup on em. Fuck that shit. 

Im down for a collective buy though. A bunch of people do LED group buys to save money and shit. Wonder how many constitutes a "wholesale" because i know alot of headshops that dont cary more than 5 to 10 of a certain thing at a time especially something more expensive like that rather than a bunch of little TI or glass or quartz nails for smaller setups. 

So hopefully we can get a handful of people together who want them. If i make a few bucks sellin a few enails id be glad to buy a handful or 2 and sell me to people on here for cost after original shipping + shipping.


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## greenghost420 (Mar 9, 2014)

if all goes well im down for sure


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## budbro18 (Mar 9, 2014)

Good glad everyone here is pretty active on this shit and down for the cause. Just posted a thread in the glass section lookin for glass blowers whod want to join the cause as well.


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## racerboy71 (Mar 9, 2014)

some on ebay bud, not sure how legit they are, i'll pm you the link to avoid spammage..


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## budbro18 (Mar 9, 2014)

Yeah TI has me super sketched at this point. too much bullshit goin around and price doesnt mean anything. Theres probably a bunch of people sellin garbage ass TI and just because theyre chargin around normal price of HEs stuff people are probably convinced its real.

Really tryin to stick to quartz or ceramic even. Cant wait for domeless.com to drop their new shit. Been talkin to him a little more tryin to get stuff figured out so i can inform more people. 

That was always my favorite thing i saw. Someone take a quartz domeless nail, heat it up til it just started to get red which takes a while for quartz, then drop it in a thing of water. pull it out and boom, not a single crack, solid as can be. Best of all the "nail tests" ive ever seen. No magnet bullshit haha.


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## biblee (Mar 9, 2014)

I can vouch for a seller on ebay. My coil was and is legit. 

I've looked into the group buy from alibaba. You really need to order 20+ units for it to make sense with the shipping.


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## budbro18 (Mar 9, 2014)

biblee said:


> I can vouch for a seller on ebay. My coil was and is legit.
> 
> I've looked into the group buy from alibaba. You really need to order 20+ units for it to make sense with the shipping.



Were talkin about TI nails not coils haha. Ive seen a few online and theyre at a reasonable price between 75 and 90.


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## biblee (Mar 9, 2014)

Got it. Either way, my HE DualTI I got with my coil from ebay is legit. I only paid an extra 50 for it. The coil wraps around it perfectly. I like how it wraps around the head of the nail a lot more too.


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## budbro18 (Mar 9, 2014)

Nice! Thats not a bad price i think i saw that same one the other day. The nylon white/tan cord for the coil?? Had the option to add a nail for like 50 so im assuming it was the same one. Feel free to throw links down for potential buyers. Like racer said though try to put some writing in it or some pictures of the shit so it doesnt get deleted because someone thinks its spam.


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## biblee (Mar 9, 2014)

Heres the link to the coil I'm talking about. The HE DualTi for an extra 50 for a total of 130. The cable is golden fiberglass. It is VERY flexible and does not tip my rig over like the steel braided coil did.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251457440852






Sorry about the orientation. I posted a couple pictures to show you how the coil mounts to the nail. Its super solid.


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## budbro18 (Mar 9, 2014)

Yup thats the exact same one i saw on ebay the other day. That setup looks nice! Does the coil rest on a heat sink or something??


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## biblee (Mar 10, 2014)

Correct. It wraps just under the dish of the nail and right above the first fin.


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## LiquidJunglist (Mar 10, 2014)

I'm glad more parts are showing up on the market. That's def a nail I have yet seen used as a enail. Very cool.


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## budbro18 (Mar 10, 2014)

Nice, just gonna have to bring my coil to a headshop and try it out on a bunch of shit until i find a quartz piece for it.

Also, probably gonna get one of these


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## LiquidJunglist (Mar 10, 2014)

With you on that one budbro I went to the head shop to look around and all the quartz honey holes were sold out.

like the drop down brov. I'm going to get one from a local blower "Etch Glass" with some honey drip on it for 95 and no work for 40.


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## budbro18 (Mar 10, 2014)

Thats a good price! You should talk to him about making some quartz e-nail domeless nails!!! Ive been lookin everywhere for someone to make them!!

I cant see them being more than 75 to 100 which would be nice compared to the 175-250 those d-nail ones cost.


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## biblee (Mar 10, 2014)

I've had an idea for a solution for a quartz nail for a while now but I have yet to try it. I see the the ice wax guys love the screen on top of an e nail and it would be worth a shot to design a quartz cup that rest in or on your existing TI. The heat transfer might not be very good, but I know these coils are not at their upper limits.


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## budbro18 (Mar 10, 2014)

Yeah people have started using ceramic pieces that sit on their nails as well as ceramic screens and ti screens 

I usually just get it a little more hot than usual and dab it even if its not the fullest melt.haha Orderin parts to day cause i had some shit to take care of over the weekend so hopin their shippings fast. 

Aubers in Georgia i think so shouldnt take too long. 

Gotta get this show on the ROAD!


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## LiquidJunglist (Mar 10, 2014)

budbro18 said:


> Aubers in Georgia i think so shouldnt take too long.


There Designed and Engineered in Alpharetta, Ga I grew up there and im about 30 mins from there. But they are built in China. This is not a bad thing. As long as you do all the R&D here then have the product made in China it will be a better product. A example would be the PAX by PLOOM. Designed and Engineered in the San Fran but built in China. But one of the best handheld vapes ever. I use mine ALL THE TIME.

Remember there is a difference between MADE in China & BUILT in China. So anyone worried about the brand this will make you feel better.


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## budbro18 (Mar 10, 2014)

Hey i dont mind certain things made in china. Had a ph meter that i broke the other day. Lasted almost 2 years and id calibrate it about once every 2 or 3 months and it was never off by more than .1 or .2 and i treated this thing like something that cost 8 bucks haha. Exact same as the yellow hanna meters, probably exact same internals, just no name brand. Imagine how many cheap ass iphones thered be on ebay if apple wasnt such a patent whore. 


And like you said as long as R&D is done by a quality company. Canon and nikon are both Japanese companies and they make killer stuff. Apple as well makes all of their shit in china but do the hardcore R&D and thats what youre paying for.

Its the same thing with the coils as well. Theres really no place ive heard of getting them besides china. haha so many people give them shit when its the creator of the product who should get the shit. And alot of times its probably a US maker who wants to cut corners to profit more and all the factories get told is how to make what at what specifications. 

Same thing with the TI. If i knew the person making it there and got it tested and it came back to be the grade 2 they said it would be id support the hell out of them.


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## LiquidJunglist (Mar 10, 2014)

I did find one or two companies that make coil heaters w/ Thermocouples in the U.S. Forgot then websites maybe find them again just have too look there just pricey. I'll look them up.

and I'm with you on a company that test there TI ill fucks with them.

(then we'll fox with each other... How high)


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## budbro18 (Mar 11, 2014)

Hahahaha Fuck you, buy us! Too classic.

But yeah cant even go on a "certificate of authenticity" because anyone with photoshop and google images can make one saying whatever they want.

Good news is i found the new HE ti enail domeless nails from an instagram headshop for only 90. Which makes me think if we "wholesale" order em ourselves there must be a pretty good discount for a headshop to sell em for 90.

One step closer to figuring it out!


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## LiquidJunglist (Mar 11, 2014)

Sweet what's the shop tag me in it or pm me the user.

i wonder what the minimal order is? Maybe I can get the head shop I'm going to be working for to order some? I'll ask.


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## budbro18 (Mar 11, 2014)

Yeah someone will have to message him at some point haha.

Ordered all my parts today so ill have my offical list up in a little.

P.S. Im never ordering from amazon. Shipping is always way too much and its annoying.

I made a full order of everything i wanted and went to check out and was paying as much for shipping as i was for parts.

Then went to ebay and boom everything i needed, within the US so no long shipping dates, and free shipping on all but 2 products and those 2 are from the same seller so its only the cost of 1 shipping thing.


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## budbro18 (Mar 11, 2014)

PID Controller: Auber 1/32 Universal Controller - $37.56

Solid State Relay: Auber 25A SSR - $15.00

Project Box (plastic): Ebay 6.25 x 3.75 x 2.4 - $10.00 (after shipping)

Power Input+switch: Ebay AC10A 250V - $6.40

6' Power Cord: Ebay Power Cord - $5.95 (any length available)

Mini XLR Female: Ebay Mini XLRf - $3.00

Mini XLR Male: Ebay Mini XLRm - $3.00

25' 16 awg wire: Ebay 16awg - $9.95

Misc. Connectors/heatshrink - ~$10

16mm Coil: China - $75 (PM me for coils)

So about $100 for the internals plus or minus a few bucks for some shipping i might have forgotten.

I can easily knock it down to about $75 or lower once i buy some of the parts from china. That power inlet/switch was $7 alone when they have em for less than a buck from china. Also the wire i bought is enough for about 10 boxes so that will go a long way.

I just didnt want to wait 1-3 weeks for my parts to slowly trickle in so i bought from ebay sellers within the US. 

Gotta grab a soldering iron and some solder from harbor freight but thats not really included in the cost since most people have them and id just ask a friend to borrow one if i wasnt planning on making multiple. 

Thats everything besides the nail but thats your choice. Theres a few good ones out there and i have yet to narrow down which one i am going to get.

Should have one built by next monday i hope if everything comes in by friday/saturday so be ready for the video.


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## LiquidJunglist (Mar 11, 2014)

Good post brother!!! I'll be getting at you soon for those coils just got to get the cream together.


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## budbro18 (Mar 11, 2014)

I feel it that was my problem for a while. Finally got an investor so ill be makin them on the regular hopefully! If i had the money id turn all the coils i got into nails for sale then just double up the purchase for next time.


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## biblee (Mar 11, 2014)

THe hardest parts for me to source and make right were the 'hobby box' and coils. I have yet to see a plastic one that works well. I think my aluminum one from ebay was 25 and I had to make the final cuts.

Good work thus far budbro.

How long does it take you to assemble one unit?


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## budbro18 (Mar 12, 2014)

Yeah i want to go with an aluminum one but dont have money for a good enough dremel for it yet. 

Havent made my first box yet but i cant imagine it takes long. Dialing in the PID will be the hardest/longest part but even that isnt too bad because my friend who got ahold of the coil people is making them too and since we have the same coil the PID should be the same. 

Guessin the first one will take a little longer since im gonna be super exact and quadruple check everything before making cuts/solders. Gotta figure out just where everything goes since im using some different parts and sizes. But a day or 2 of tinkerin and ill have it done. Once i get it down to a clean design/plan i cant see it taking anymore than an hour to assemble one. And another hour dialing in/auto tuning the pid/coil.


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## LiquidJunglist (Mar 12, 2014)

So I did some research on those AmpTek PIDs and they do have some PIDs for sale... Just not the BBA-200

but it looks like the BBA-500 is the same unit. What you think?

http://www.heatingtapes.com/16thdin&BulbCap.html

I'm still likely going with Auber PID. Keep us posted in the PID settings you decide to go with brov.


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## budbro18 (Mar 12, 2014)

Hell yeah everything should be here by the weekend except possibly the controller/ssr from auber. 

That link doesnt work though.


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## LiquidJunglist (Mar 12, 2014)

I got a email from them.... Directly



> The BBA-500 is no longer available. It has been replaced by the BBA-200 which has all the functions of the old unit.
> 
> 
> The BBA-200 is only the PID module. This is a 1/16 DIN panel mountable device. It can be programmed for various sensor inputs, including Type K t/c. The module also operates on voltages from 85 to 250 VAC. There are 2 versions - 1 for mechanical relay and one for solid state relay output.
> ...


Ouch but it is a option for someone that is ballin. LOL


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## budbro18 (Mar 12, 2014)

Damn thats pricey! haha For real it seems like its made to autotune really well. For DIY kilns and shit like that probably.

I didnt like the 1/16 din either way haha. the double row display is nice but i dont think its too much difficulty to switch to the SET mode. From what ive read in the manual on aubers website.


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## LiquidJunglist (Mar 13, 2014)

I'm the same, I'm sure when you get the SSR and PID we will get it close. I was reading on do me electrical forum talking about a math problem to figure out the PID settings for the coil based on the voltage, watts, how long and wide the coil is and the desired temp range. But don't quote me lol.


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## budbro18 (Mar 13, 2014)

Yup thats what the PID stands for Proportional, Integral, Derivative 

From my understanding its like a wave on an oscilloscope. You want it to be nice and even after the start up point. The X amount of power put in every X amount of time should directly line up with the rate at which the heating element cools/heats. Too strong and the coil will overshoot its designated temp and prematurely ware itself out, too low and the coil will drop temps really easily and struggle staying at the temps you want.

Ive watched a few videos explaining it on youtube but my math is horrible so i got lost once they showed an equation that was 90% letters. hahaha

According to shipping everything should be here by saturday unless it gets slowed down and since most of it is USPS thats highly likely. But monday at the latest for all parts including the stuff from auber.


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## Fadedawg (Mar 14, 2014)

Math aside, the way they work, is pulse the power on and off. The closer you get to set point, the more time between pulses and the shorter their duration.


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## budbro18 (Mar 14, 2014)

Yupp also gotta control the gain or the amount of voltage sent each time. I think at least.


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## TheNaturalist (Mar 15, 2014)

subbed! 78910


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## budbro18 (Mar 15, 2014)

Glad to have you along for the ride! PID anad SSR came in yesterday, bouta go down and pick it up. Hopefully everything else will be in by the end of today but i feel like at least 1 thing is gonna take til monday.


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## budbro18 (Mar 15, 2014)

Got most of my parts in so far! Pid and ssr are in the office and i already have the box and mini xlr male/female. Gotta grab a dremel from my friend and grab a soldering iron with a super fine tip at harbor freight because this mini xlr is gonna be tough to wire. The contacts are so small. But shouldnt be too hard.

Ill have all the pictures up tomorrow and by monday it will be in operation. Gotta wait for the power cord and the power inlet/switch/fuse but ill have everything about lined up before then. The wiring diagram will be easier too since im using the switch/power inlet combo. Dont have to run a line to the front of the box for the power switch. But the wiring of the power inlet/switch is a little confusing but shouldnt be too hard. Gotta grab fuses for it too because for some reason they couldnt toss in a 1 dollar fuse. haha


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## Fadedawg (Mar 16, 2014)

What did the observant onlooker say to the Wolf? Why the long face?

Sitting here with everything but the PID controllers and mah long face hanging out. 

Been cruising the Goodwill stores for the perfect living room end table re-purposed enclosure. Something to contain both the pipe and coil, PID controls, and some activated charcoal to exhale through, so as to scrub the smell. So far the best candidates were an old radio cabinet and a small speaker. Hee, hee, hee, snicker, snark, snort...........

Hardly subtle hauling out a blow torch, and I have to be concerned about the odor of my property. I live within a couple blocks of two schools, with student traffic by my house, as well as the traffic of the professional drug dealers whom service them, and the neighbor across the street is a disabled and retired ossifer of the law, not to mention that a local US Senator frequently jogs by. Not uncommon to have one of my professional neighbors drop by, some of which are my age and know what cannabis products smell like.

I'm also the former block watch captain, sooooo I know that some of them are frightened by the prospect of cannabis in the hood, and are beyond education because their Limbic system takes over any time the subject comes up.

I have already identified who and what I am to the current block captain, as well as the US Senator, because I have nothing to hide, but generally eschew broad casting it after watching the reaction of some neighbors that I thought were sympathetic, and clearly recognize the need for a simple unobtrusive system for at home vaporization.


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## budbro18 (Mar 16, 2014)

You could always hollow out a book! Someone posted a picture of a company that sells 3d printed ones in the shape of books. Its back a page or 2.

Besides that have you considered getting a smoke buddy?? Ive seen chubbs use em alot when he shot videos in his old office and smoked alot of bud.

Theyre about 10 bucks on ebay or amazon. 

I was feelin the same way yesterday because my PID was delivered but the stupid people in the office couldnt find it. And im not one to be assertive enough to tell them to keep looking when they have other things to do so i figured id grab it today when hopefully a different one of the ladies is there.

For a second i thought that the place was closed on sunday because i have 2 more parts coming in and was pissed im not gonna get em til monday. And somehow i made the connection of the office not being open on sunday so i wouldnt be able to get the PID til monday either. But its not so im probably gonna go down there right after i get my day started. Gotta straighten up around the house and shit. Get ready to do some seriously small soldering on this mini XLR

Also fade, my box is very very small and discrete so if youve been following along with the build and bought similar sized things it shouldnt be too tough.
*
DISCLAIMER!! IF YOU ARE FOLLOWING THIS THREAD TO THE t THAN YOU MIGHT NOT WANT TO BUY THE SAME PROJECT BOX JUST YET. I MAPPED IT OUT BUT MIXED UP 2 OF THE DIMENSIONS OF THE PID CONTROLLER SO IM NOT SURE HOW TIGHT OF A FIT IT WILL BE.
*
Im gonna be determined to make it all fit but it is going to be a very tight squeeze.

My project box is 6.25 x 3.75 x 2.4

Id recommend one that is a little longer if possible. Width and height of the box seem to be more than enough room so since i have alot of headroom i might be able to get creative with mounting everything and make it fit without doing anything crazy.

If you find a project box that is 6.5 to 7 inches long that would probably work a little better and give you a little more breathing room.


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## budbro18 (Mar 16, 2014)

Heres my plan of attack. No wiring diagram yet but ill work on that once i see how everything will be laid out and it is to scale.










Heres the mini XLR just so anyone who hasnt seen one or worked with one will know how small shit is.


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## jdee (Mar 16, 2014)

Does anyone know if something like these wire pin terminals would work instead of requiring soldering to make the connections for the xlr panel mount connector?
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/connectors-interconnects/terminals-wire-pin-connectors/
If so you could put one of these boxes together without any soldering at all and that would be great.


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## budbro18 (Mar 16, 2014)

Hell yeah it would make that shit easy as fuck! I was thinkin that yesterday because thats the only part you really have to solder. All the other parts just use half circle connectors and shit like that. ones commonly used for audio systems. Theyre like crescent shaped. But yeah if you can find a pair to work well thatd be awesome! The mini XLR ones are sooooo tiny im not sure theyd have enough room but a regular xlr would probably have room for them.


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## LiquidJunglist (Mar 17, 2014)

Just get that fine point tip for your iron. You will be good.


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## budbro18 (Mar 17, 2014)

For sure i was just warning those who might be following along with less patience/skills soldering. Im gonna take my mini xlr to radio shack or micro center or a few other electrical stores and look for those connectors for em but im probably gonna have to solder it. Luckily its the only thing i have to solder is the coil to the mini xlr and the mini xlr to the rest of the box.


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## budbro18 (Mar 17, 2014)

Made my first cuts today! Over sanded a tad but its no big deal. The controller kinda tapers towards the end so i cut parts i thought were getting hung up then realized what was really getting hung up. Just got about a 2mm gap between the PID and the lip but it still sits in there very solid with no wiggle room. Didnt even throw in the rubber gromet/ o ring thing they gave me. I will when i fully assemble it and get it all wired.

Took a bunch of pictures and some video. The box is pretty simple and more dependent on what system youre using exactly. Just take your time and get some fine cutting tools for your dremel. That was my main problem was i needed to take the corners out more but the only sanders i had were pretty fat and round. Gonna have to stock up on some things at harbor freight before i get into production. 

Trying to figure out this wiring diagram since im using some different parts and the old one is rather confusing with lines runnin everywhere haha. 


Found this and hes usin the exact same parts as me so it should make the wiring alot easier. Hes literally using all the same parts as me minus the power inlet/switch/fuse combo! And his box is different.

What fucking luck! all you gotta do is route the output that he has connected for a 3 prong extension cord (his is made for a slow cooker) and run it to my 5 pin output instead of his 3 pin.

Check it out. He has a wiring diagram im gonna pull up soon and post.

[video=youtube;iEd4YDh6BCk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iEd4YDh6BCk[/video]


Make sure to read the annotations he has a few mix ups and links to good shit!

*The 3rd cord on the thermocouple is not necessary/available in the coils just use the TC -/+


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## biscuithead (Mar 17, 2014)

This is coming along awesome I guess I can post now but thanks bud to for the assurance that I have the right parts and now I'm just waiting for the 16g wire in the mail


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## tharealmclovin (Mar 17, 2014)

Just got my coil in the mail and it is not a good fit to my infinity nail. I think I am going to order that Highly Educated E-nail nail. I see them everyday on FB for $90. Any luck finding them cheaper???


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## Twitch (Mar 17, 2014)

budbro lets see some of ur pics


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## budbro18 (Mar 18, 2014)

Sorry long couple days. Birthday week so been out and about but still got most of my cutting and planning done. 








Mini XLR









SSR and PID








Took a little too much off the top but with an o ring it came with it should look a little better. It still doesnt wiggle at all and is nice and sturdy.















Drilled a 3/8" hole in the front and my smallest sanding tip fit in there perfect and opened it up just enough for me to fit the mini xlr


Gonna be busy but i got video im probably gonna build it all up and then make a single video. Gotta bust out my tripod.


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## drdank227 (Mar 18, 2014)

How can I purchase a coil from you? I just made an account to follow along to this post... Thank you


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## budbro18 (Mar 18, 2014)

I just sold the last of them the other day so id have to wait til i get a new order but ill have a paypal account up and running at some point for everything.


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## Fadedawg (Mar 19, 2014)

Another source and where I scored mine http://oil-coil.com/

Still waiting for my shipment of PID controllers.


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## tharealmclovin (Mar 19, 2014)

I didn't like the way my alibaba coil sat on my infinity nail. I just ordered the HE enail adapter and a ceramic domeless from domeless.com. I am pretty sure the ceramic will work, but got the Ti to be sure


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## budbro18 (Mar 19, 2014)

Hell yeah the oil coil site has been around for a while but theyre chargin a bit much for their coils. You can find em on ebay for 75-85. Thats what i was sellin mine for 75 plus shipping. I really want to get one of those ceramic nails as well. Really cheap compared to the HIVE ceramics so youll be able to switch/replace the nails more often. Hell domeless has the flat coils on their site so if youre looking for one and are already buyin a domeless off domeless theyre pretty cheap. 50 bucks i think. Youd have to mess with the soldering yourself and possibly cut the old connector off but either way im workin on gettin some of the flat coils soon. Depending on which nail i get.


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## Young Bull (Mar 19, 2014)

Nice work bud! I registered just to follow along. I can't wait to order all the parts. Hopefully we'll all be e-dabbing in no-time!


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## Kase (Mar 19, 2014)

I'd love to purchase an assembled one from ya budbro, lemme know when ya got one ya could sell


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## Young Bull (Mar 19, 2014)

I'm new to the e-nail scene, I have this nail already does anyone know if the coils will fit it or would I have to buy a different nail too?

http://max-quality-glass.myshopify.com/collections/titanium-nails/products/power-titanium-nail-female-fits-male-joint


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## budbro18 (Mar 19, 2014)

Hell yeah thanks guys fuck torches!!! 

And young bull, im not sure if that one will fit the coils i have or some other ones but i know they make em in all different IDs so you could find one for your nail. 

If its 16mm OD or a little smaller it should fit the type of coils i have. 

Hopefully have it fully assembled today and be testing by tonight!

Along with that ill have pictures up by the weekend. Might have to disassemble then reassemble the first one to get some good video. 

I have a little so far but would probably want to do some more because im gonna be tryin to fit pieces where they go best so might have to wait til i make the first round for production.

But thatd be about a week or 2 away depending on shipping time of stuff but ill have some good pictures up by the weekend.


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## Kase (Mar 19, 2014)

If ya gave me a really good deal I'd probably be cool with one of the prototypes bug no worries, 2 weeks I can be patient


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## budbro18 (Mar 19, 2014)

Well im only tryna sell em for 250 haha there shouldnt be too many bugs just more gotta test to make everything lasts with regular use. It should because the friend who got me the coils has had his runnin for a while now. Might be able to let a prototype go for 200. I was trying to find friends close so if any problems did occur i could run over there and swap out the broken part if need be.

All is riding on this first one but its pretty sound science so it shouldnt be too hard haha.


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## Young Bull (Mar 19, 2014)

Yeah I'll check the diameter when I get home, I know with that design of nail it won't be the best heat transfer but I really like that nail, hopefully I'll be able to make something work. The only thing I don't like about that nail is how long it takes to heat up, even with the bed bath and beyond torch. I'm always driving my wife crazy with my long heating sessions lol


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## SparkOne (Mar 19, 2014)

I've been lurking through this thread for the past couple days and today I made an account so I could truly follow. What you're doing is great and I would love to purchase a fully assembled one as well. 

I do have a quick question though, I've never used an electronic nail, do they get the glass joints hot like regular nails? Wouldn't want anything to crack.


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## budbro18 (Mar 19, 2014)

I feel it on the torch! No jet flame sound late night is a nice thing to look forward to. 

As for the joint getting hot they definitely do. Thats why i recommend a drop down. I posted one a few pages back. They just plug into your joint and move it about 1-3 inches away from your piece and alow all that heat to soak into the drop down and not the joint.

Luckily alot of our pieces are by locals for pretty cheap so buying a 20 dollar drop down on a 50-75 dollar rig isnt so necessary but if we had some nice fancy glass itd for sure be gettin the drop down.


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## budbro18 (Mar 19, 2014)

DO NOT USE MINI XLR..... Just fucked up my first plug because that shit is too small to solder. I didnt have a set of magic hands so it was awkward but ill probably just switch to the DIN or a regular 5 pin XLR

Sucks because i liked the clean look of the thread-mount so i didnt have to screw any screws into this box.


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## tharealmclovin (Mar 19, 2014)

I have the 5 pin DIN connector that the DIY uses. Still super tiny but a little bigger. Im not good with soldering so im gonna have my buddy do it for me. Ill just dab him out once we finish. Next time I will use 5 pin XLR's or just get my coil from D-Nail with an attachment already. Waiting on 1 more switch and my relay.


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## nme (Mar 19, 2014)

Is everyone here using the HE Infiniti Nail with their DIY enail? Coilworks has dropped the universal nail they were selling...

Budbro: did you ever find anyone to blow quartz for you?


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## biscuithead (Mar 20, 2014)

I'm waiting for a friend to make me a prototype quarts nail so in a few days I'll let you know if they are as nice as they should be I will try to help some of you guys out. Also what are the clips called that I need to connect the 16g wire to everything thanks


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## budbro18 (Mar 20, 2014)

Yeah the DINs just have more room on them and theyre spread out a little more. haha Hopefully ill be able to find a 5 pin xlr in stores. 

No quartz blower yet but buscuithead is workin on it. I plan to use one of the ceramic nails. He has a new version coming out specifically made for the coils as well as the one he just came out with. 

Ill probably be gettin a few flat coils as well so itll work even better with the ceramic nail.


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## guccikins (Mar 20, 2014)

I subbed too. I have been reading this thread, but Im afraid I wont be able to build this without a very detailed guide. I have never soldered or wired before, but I am very good at DIY. If I cant make my own, Budbro, would you sell me a completed one and for how much?


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## tharealmclovin (Mar 20, 2014)

My Domeless.com ceramic came today. While it is nice, it doesn't fit the coil like I had planned. If I flip it to where it is for a regular 18mm slide it can wedge it in to work. I am gonna get a dropdown so I dont break my joint.


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## budbro18 (Mar 20, 2014)

250 bucks for one and mclovin did you get the ceramic spacer/washer?? That woulda helped it fit a little better probably.


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## tharealmclovin (Mar 20, 2014)

I did not get the washer. If you look at the picture...The left one is way too tall for my coil, while the right one is pretty tight. For $10 I may buy the 5 pack of washers and stack them. The Ceramic also transfers the heat to the glass. I recommend a dropdown.


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## budbro18 (Mar 22, 2014)

Yeah i feel it! Def need those ceramic washers and a drop down if youre usin an enail/dabbin enough to want/need an enail. Like i was sayin me and my friends all have like 50-75 dollar rigs from local guys so theyre nothin fancy or close to our hearts haha. Also, being blunt guys its hard to get that close to a piece of glass... hahaha Thats a nice lil rig you got there too!


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## budbro18 (Mar 22, 2014)

Workin hard tryin to get this first one fully wired and running. Took me a few times but i got it workin now. Definitely need a different box. Not enough room for my likin. I wanna look for a low profile heat sink as well. Might grab one from auber next time i order. Probably gonna get an ebay one though cause they charge a lot for them on aubers site. Also, make sure you buy your fuses online because i cant find shit for 5x20mm 250v 15a or 10a fuses anywhere. Gonna be makin an order for some of those soon.


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## biscuithead (Mar 23, 2014)

Yea I have everything wired appropriately but it won't heat up and I've switched the tc connections on the xlr a few times. Help me out budbro how did you end up wiring it we used all the same stuff and it's killing me not knowing what's up. Thanks in advance


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## budbro18 (Mar 23, 2014)

Just finished wiring it today and got it all workin fine.

Im in the process of loadin the pictures onto my computer. 

You might have your ssr connection mixed. ive heard thats a common mistake for it not heating up. Just double check everything. 

This is how i wired my power inlet. far right white with black line is ground. didnt have green shrink wrap. reds are hot white are neutral/-



You should upload some pictures of what yours looks like, i found it pretty easy once i got it all laid out and all the right connectors. Took me longer to assemble the wires with all the connectors and shrink wrap than to wire it up.


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## LiquidJunglist (Mar 23, 2014)

Maybe a SSR like this...

http://www.serelays.com/products.php?t=70S2

the highest contact rating is 25A


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## budbro18 (Mar 23, 2014)

that one on the left in the picture looks just like the one @humboldtenail uses for his. But the 25a one isnt too much smaller than the one im using. itd definitely save me some space though! But i was planning/hoping to get metal boxes so i could reduce a little bit of the heat the SSR causes.

Also, i couldnt find 10a or 15a 5x20mm fuse but the 6.5a fuses i got worked fine and shouldnt blow because the coil only uses 200w which i think is a little less than 4 amps but im not sure. Either way its cycled through for a few hours without blowing so i dont think it should.


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## tharealmclovin (Mar 23, 2014)

Had issues soldering my connections too. I am still missing a switch and just hardwired the Coil for now. I am testing and will hopefully get everything connected in the next few days with solder.


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## biscuithead (Mar 23, 2014)

i checked everything and it seems to be all good but my copper ground pin on the rocker was on the left ... that was the only difference so maybe it was my soldering ability so im going to rewire. whenever you get your pics of everything uploaded ill use it as a reference because i dont want to destroy anything. thanks soo much for everything and hopefully i can return the favor if my buddy can make these quarts nails quick


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## budbro18 (Mar 23, 2014)

Hell yeah guys! i need a bigger box thats for sure. If it was just an inch longer and a half inch shorter itd look perfect! I hard wired my first one too and i like it. Found a really nice wire clamp out of luck at my friends that worked perfectly. 

I hope we get those quartz nails!!! 

I hope to get a wiring diagram up soon! My box barely fits to close and when its open you cant see too much. But ill disassemble/make more soon for the video/indepth pictures.


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## biscuithead (Mar 23, 2014)

hey budbro i will paypal you 10 bucks if you can just draw a diagram of where each wire should go and text it to me i swear man im leaving tomorrow and i would looove to bring this with me. i can message you my number if your cool with that man but please help me out


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## budbro18 (Mar 23, 2014)

First one is complete!


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## budbro18 (Mar 23, 2014)

Biscuit head check this out!


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## biscuithead (Mar 23, 2014)

thanks alot man this has been driving me absolutely nuts i just really want it for the next couple of days it would be perfect. but if i switch the ac +and- on the xlr it wont hurt it right because it didnt specify. but really check your messages please and if you could just text me it i cant explain how great i will feel thanks again tho its a little clearer but the xlr is throwing me off


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## drdank227 (Mar 24, 2014)

Im w/ @biscuithead on this one bud I cant wait to start building one. Thanks for pics and diagram, your unit is on point! When do you plan on making more, im in for 250$!


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## tharealmclovin (Mar 24, 2014)

that is a sleek case. I am about to order parts for my next one. I am definitly using the Auber and the rocker switch on the back. I also hear that the auto tune on the auber works great. The Mypin is bouncing all over the place for me.


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## budbro18 (Mar 24, 2014)

Hell yeah guys thanks! Id use a slightly bigger box or just arrange it differently than i did. I forgot to take into account the wire connectors. I also made some wires too long and split all the wires in a weird/bad place for the way i had planned. Im trying to find one.

Id highly recommend the switch/power inlet/fuse combo. Soooo much less bullshit to have runnin all across the box, but that being said its the reason i dont have as much room as planned. The ssr runs into the connectors and make it about an inch longer than planned. Luckily its all flexible so i could maneuver it around to fit right.

Ill be ordering supplies for 5 boxes in a week or two. Been busy with the other shit along with dialing in the first one. So hopin to have them all built and sold by 4/20 at the latest. I wanted to do some pre order shit but dont really like holding onto money and would feel too bad if something slowed me down or happened. So id 

Good news though the autotune is SPOT ON! 

First tests with it and autotune was done with just the coil and no nail it sat pretty at 700 every couple minutes itd drop to 699 then bounce back to 700. Then a few minutes would go by and itd bounce to 701, minute later back to 700. Only works better on an actual nail!

Best part is the heatup. Takes about 2 minutes over shoots by EXACTLY 16 degrees just like the humboldt enail does. Didnt mean to have it do that it just happened to because im pretty sure we use the same controller or a clone.

With a nail, that was not made for an enail and really didnt fit well at all, it sat at 700 real nice heated to temp in 2 minutes, didnt over shoot as much because it was heating the nail and the nail was ready to hit within 5 minutes. Once i get one of the smack dab essentials or HE nails itll be alot better. Also only lost about 10 degrees in temp after a pretty big dab and recovered in under 30 seconds. Not sure if ill even fine tune the settings. Theyre sittin pretty good. Messin with a few low temp dabs but we didnt have a carb cap and the piece we were usin was a little bigger than usual so it took a lot of breath. 


Smack dab e-nail ti nail

Drop down

Probably gonna grab one of these and a drop down^^^. Made just for the 16mm coils. they have em in 10/14 mm male and 14/18mm male as well but i couldnt find one on the site. Either sold out or not up yet haha.


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## tharealmclovin (Mar 24, 2014)

what kind of connector did you use for your coil??? I just have a hole temporarily. I also ordered a dropdown and use the HE enail insert that was $90


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## biscuithead (Mar 24, 2014)

hey budbro my copper pin is on the left side with the - on the red rocker part. in the pic it seems yours was on the right should i wire it opposite way if this is the case i really dont want to mess it up.


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## biscuithead (Mar 24, 2014)

hey budbro my copper pin is on the left side with the - on the red rocker part. in the pic it seems yours was on the right should i wire it opposite way if this is the case i really dont want to mess it up.


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## budbro18 (Mar 24, 2014)

Just wire it up how it is the brass/copper end is negative, the N coming off the main line is negative. Hook that to that then the live from the L to the middle pin in the switch then out the top switch. 

Its the same upside down haha


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## biscuithead (Mar 25, 2014)

please text me man i will pay you for a shitty drawing im stressing out


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## biscuithead (Mar 25, 2014)

so will i have twocords + and - going int the rocker from the ac plug not just the center because i only have the center now. where should the out line connect to


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## NOVAorganics (Mar 25, 2014)

Looking Awesome Budbro!!! Hopefully I can put some of my solventless on this one day sooner than later. I would love to represent your product. super clean and way better than a lot of these others icy out here. get at me buddy,! Congrats


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## NOVAorganics (Mar 25, 2014)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlp6qb0xlNg

see the problem is when I try to do a screen hit on top of my quarts dome less it just ends up going cold on me... I need To Get Some Funds For ABudbrobox


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## Rhinojedi (Mar 26, 2014)

i just orders the parts for my first diy enail,
does anyone knows which coil i need for a standard HE dualiti nail?[h=1][/h]


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## watdaheo808 (Mar 26, 2014)

Rhinojedi said:


> i just orders the parts for my first diy enail,
> does anyone knows which coil i need for a standard HE dualiti nail?


You'll need a coil with a 5/8' ID 1/2" H. Lmk if you need one, I have a few extra I can sell for $70 including shipping. Paypal address has to be verified but they are k thermocouple, 120/250w, silicone sheathing cover, 5 ft length, 3x3 mm, with XLR connectors. Do you have every other part? If not I could throw in a rocker switch, ac connector, and a XLR chassis mount for another $10 if your interested. If not you could buy them from dnail for $75-90 or oil-coil for $120


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## Rhinojedi (Mar 26, 2014)

thanks,
i live in Israel so ill try to see if i can order it from here,
thanks again,


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## Rhinojedi (Mar 26, 2014)

watdaheo808 said:


> You'll need a coil with a 5/8' ID 1/2" H. Lmk if you need one, I have a few extra I can sell for $70 including shipping. Paypal address has to be verified but they are k thermocouple, 120/250w, silicone sheathing cover, 5 ft length, 3x3 mm, with XLR connectors. Do you have every other part? If not I could throw in a rocker switch, ac connector, and a XLR chassis mount for another $10 if your interested. If not you could buy them from dnail for $75-90 or oil-coil for $120


i can not find any that are 220V not 110V, any one can help?


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## tharealmclovin (Mar 26, 2014)

Rhinojedi said:


> i can not find any that are 220V not 110V, any one can help?


http://www.aliexpress.com/item/220V-hot-runner-coil-heater-with-a-5-pin-xlr-male-connector/1703567404.html

they have others too. I cant vouch for quality though


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## biscuithead (Mar 26, 2014)

Ok I have my plug set up like yours I think.. is the n from the plug only looped to the brass pin or where because I thought the n should split like the positive top terminal loops to the middle pos on the rocker. Thanks budbro


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## nme (Mar 26, 2014)

My coil just blew the fuck up. I used a K type TC coil with a ta4-snr using PID setting P=30 I=10.5 D=2.12

I set it at 100* and it overshot to 165*. The coil was warm to touch but definitely not that hot...so I turned it up to 600 and as soon as I hit the set button it overheated the coil and popped and scared the shit out of me!

Anyone know what I did wrong?


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## nme (Mar 26, 2014)

Time for an admittance of shame! I screwed up and ordered a nice fiberglass sheathed coil but didn't notice it was only 12V and not 120V...son of a bitch!


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## watdaheo808 (Mar 26, 2014)

nme said:


> My coil just blew the fuck up. I used a K type TC coil with a ta4-snr using PID setting P=30 I=10.5 D=2.12
> 
> I set it at 100* and it overshot to 165*. The coil was warm to touch but definitely not that hot...so I turned it up to 600 and as soon as I hit the set button it overheated the coil and popped and scared the shit out of me!
> 
> Anyone know what I did wrong?


You might've purchased the wrong PID. From my understanding you need a TA4-SSR not the SNR.


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## JUANO (Mar 27, 2014)

Does anyone have any insight on the wiring for a straight analog E-nail????? Basically it's a light dimmer and a 110v cord connected to the coil. Any help is appreciated


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## watdaheo808 (Mar 27, 2014)

Domeless.com has one that doesn't seem as generic and is way cheaper too. I should be getting mine in soon so I can't really say anything about the function. Original preorder price was $100 but its $150 now. Still a really good deal compared to all the other analogs out there going for $200-400..


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## tharealmclovin (Mar 27, 2014)

watdaheo808 said:


> Domeless.com has one that doesn't seem as generic and is way cheaper too. I should be getting mine in soon so I can't really say anything about the function. Original preorder price was $100 but its $150 now. Still a really good deal compared to all the other analogs out there going for $200-400..


based on the quality of their Ceramic nail, which I cracked the first day without ever getting it red hot, I would not expect too much from them. They used an inferior glazed ceramic that Hive rejected last year. When Hive was asked about them as competition, they said they were NOT worried because they knew it was junk compared to theirs.


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## watdaheo808 (Mar 27, 2014)

Yeah I can't really comment on the ceramic nails but comparing the 2 units, domeless still looks like they put way more work into the e-nails. 
 vs


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## tharealmclovin (Mar 28, 2014)

watdaheo808 said:


> Yeah I can't really comment on the ceramic nails but comparing the 2 units, domeless still looks like they put way more work into the e-nails. View attachment 3036864View attachment 3036865 vs View attachment 3036867


 "(We think the optimum bowl temperature should between 300-400 F)" This is a quote from their site. Sounds like they are making a pizza not vaping concentrates. Most enails are being used at 650-900 degrees


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## watdaheo808 (Mar 28, 2014)

tharealmclovin said:


> "(We think the optimum bowl temperature should between 300-400 F)" This is a quote from their site. Sounds like they are making a pizza not vaping concentrates. Most enails are being used at 650-900 degrees


 He must've been high when he posted that or meant celcius or the best temperature for weed...I hope lol. Regardless he does say THE TEMP WILL GO BETWEEN 200F ~ 1200F which is what I'm looking for. I'm not fully backing this yet since I haven't been able to try it but for $150 (I paid $100 during pre-order), it's a great deal. If you look for another analog, they'll all most likely be $250-400 and made in cheap plastic cases. The only one that has a decent amount of work put into it is the smart dab. Hopefully it comes in within the next week so we can all see if its truly worth the money. Regarding the ceramic nail, did you crack it using a e-nail or torch? Also did you try to heat it as evenly as possible as he recommended? Just wondering so I know if I should even attempt to torch the nail.


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## tharealmclovin (Mar 28, 2014)

watdaheo808 said:


> He must've been high when he posted that or meant celcius or the best temperature for weed...I hope lol. Regardless he does say THE TEMP WILL GO BETWEEN 200F ~ 1200F which is what I'm looking for. I'm not fully backing this yet since I haven't been able to try it but for $150 (I paid $100 during pre-order), it's a great deal. If you look for another analog, they'll all most likely be $250-400 and made in cheap plastic cases. The only one that has a decent amount of work put into it is the smart dab. Hopefully it comes in within the next week so we can all see if its truly worth the money. Regarding the ceramic nail, did you crack it using a e-nail or torch? Also did you try to heat it as evenly as possible as he recommended? Just wondering so I know if I should even attempt to torch the nail.


 I dont blame ya. I almost ordered one myself, but decided to make one instead. I enjpy projects


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## jdee (Mar 28, 2014)

I agree that 300f is way too low..Using a k type thermocouple wire sensor to calibrate the temps of the dish to optimum vaping temps I found that what should have been a good temp 580 on PID / ~385f on dish, was too low a temp for the dish. It would leave unvaped residue unlike the higher temps, required longer pulls and more of them to vape a dab. It vapes so slow that while it does taste good the vapor to air ratio caused by the slow vape dilutes it too much. at 680 my dish is 485 and vapes a dab in a reasonable amount of pulls without tasting burned and without being diluted by too much air due to vaping too slow. Also no visible 'wet' residue left behind. Also not that anyone asked but I leave my dab station running 24/7 and have had zero issues. The unit never heats up (except for the coil) and having plugged it into power meter, it uses a steady 30watts @ 0.5amps. With a rate of 8.85 cents/kWh this costs $1.90/month to run. I believe it's much cheaper than refillable torches.


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## budbro18 (Mar 29, 2014)

Heres my wiring diagram. Theres less wires because the power inlet/switch are all in one so i just had the lines in the picture coming straight off the switch. 

Reds are hot, blues neutral/negative, green are ground, orange are SSR, purple are TC 










Heres the power inlet/switch wiring, already posted but i like having em in the same spot.
Reds hot, white negative/neutral, white with black line is ground (far right wire) 








Ill probably be tearin open the box today and takin some pictures. Looks like a rats nest but should help a little more. 

And to anyone who hasnt bought their project box get one about an inch longer than the one i listed. It all fits... but barely.


----------



## budbro18 (Mar 29, 2014)

I also like what domeless.com is doing. Theyve switched to non glazed a while ago and have the V2s for the coils. Not 100% sure my coils will fit but i hope. Gotta get a caliper to see my exact coil dimensions. 

Im probably gonna get a V2 and possibly the infiniti copy as well if this quartz doesnt come through.


----------



## biscuithead (Mar 29, 2014)

Yea my buddy is working on the quartz nails now so that should be soon but I would love to see some pictures because when I wired it how I thought ur diagram said and my pid or rocker didn't light up haha I'm over stressing the fuck out now I just think it's funny now how I can't get it right but thanks bud to I can't imagine I'm too far off but pictures would clairify everything for me but is the live terminal supposed to split and one side is the middle post and why in the pic is the other split side of L a skinny white cord . Thanks man


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## budbro18 (Mar 29, 2014)

the skinny white cord in the back isnt a cord its a piece of shrink wrap haha 

Also i didnt split the wires off of my switch/output. I ran a single wire off of each of them and then wire nutted 2 or 3 wires on there.

So the wire for the live goes through the fuse and out the red one and straight into the switch. then that send it to the top wire that isnt brass/copper and a single wire comes out of there. Then i attach a wire nut and ad 2 wires off one. 

For the neutral i did something a little different. i put single wires on both the N and the brass pin on the switch then connected those to 2 more wires with a wire nut and ran 1 to the pid and one to the coil.


I wired directly and didnt have to solder any parts. Looks nice and its short enough the coil doesnt make it too long when wrapped up. Gotta find a case for it to carry it around.


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## biscuithead (Mar 29, 2014)

I just wired it exactly how it should be thanks a lot budbro but my pid only reads room temp even when I clicked the down arrow to 700 and held in the > for auto tune but I can't make it heat up.... I never switched the tc and ac on my xlr so there's no way I could have burned out the coil right I made sure only neg was ever hooked to the ac but hopefully I just need help setting the pid thanks


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## budbro18 (Mar 29, 2014)

Im not sure whats wrong the thermocouple is usually the thing that burns out. Are you sure you have your SSR hooked up right?? You need the hot to go into the 2 and out the 1 into the coil and to also have a negative hooked up to the coil as well as a ground. and the TC -/+.

Also it could be your SSR. Are you using the exact auber controller im using?? If not double check your numbers and placement. as long as the TC is hooked up right and you have power into your PID and its powering up youre half way there.

Hope this helped!


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## LiquidJunglist (Mar 30, 2014)

So the only question I have is about the SSR. Are you putting a connecting wire from connection #2 to connection #1 on the SSR and where are you putting that ground in the SSR? I'm just a little confused about that. It would be amazing to see the inside of the box. I get everything else just not the SSR wiring. Thanks brov.


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## biscuithead (Mar 30, 2014)

Thanks man I know I have it all wired right but maybe pictures will make me realize something I may have messed up. The wire going thru the ssr isn't really one wire it's just showing the power right and it's two wires haha because that's the only wiring I have different


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## watdaheo808 (Mar 30, 2014)

This diagram might be a bit easier to follow. It's directly from the reddit DIY post.


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## budbro18 (Mar 30, 2014)

haha sorry guys i was kinda showing the flow of electricity. You just wire a wire in through the 2 spot on the ssr and out the one spot with a separate wire. No connection 

Also, the ground goes into the screw hole for mounting the SSR. im pretty sure it doesnt matter which side you do it on. Pictures in a few! I hope it helps. I didnt use any different colored wires but it should be easy enough to see.


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## budbro18 (Mar 30, 2014)

Hopefully these help but honestly i dont think they will. Shits so crammed in there i cant even tell what goes where at this point. 

Ill be makin a blown out one with no box that just shows where all the connections go. Might even grab some white and red wire to go with my black wire. Or i might just cover all the wires in shrink wrap thats different colors haha.


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## budbro18 (Mar 30, 2014)

Unfortunately all the U connectors i used for the SSR and shit have red covers built in so try to go by the shrink wrap you see thats white or red to tell you the charge haha. The wires for the SSR are both white so dont get those confused with negatives.


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## biscuithead (Mar 30, 2014)

Ok I thought I had it all set up right but I only used two wire screws one split into two on positive and 4 wires combined off n brass to pid and ssr maybe you could help me clarify but I think the switch connections are the only thing throwing me off what did you connect the other nut screws to


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## budbro18 (Mar 30, 2014)

Can you post some pictures so i can see?? Its really hard to think about it but you onlly need 2 wires coming off the switch one for the coil and one for the PID.

Make sure your SSR positive and negative are both hooked up to the right connectors.


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## biscuithead (Mar 30, 2014)

Sorry I can't seem to add pictures right now but what are the other wire nuts connected to because I have two and you have like 4 and that's our only difference from what I can see sry pics won't load


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## budbro18 (Mar 30, 2014)

Theres 5 but only 3 are used as splits the other 2 are used to connect wires from the coil to the internals

1 is for the ground split (power inlet), 1 is for the negative split (power inlet/switch), one is for the positive split (switch output), 1 is for connecting the ground to the ground of the coil, 1 is for connecting the negative to the negative on the coil. 

The hot of the coil has a connector on it wired straight to the output of the SSR.

I could have probably cut 2 or 3 of them out if i wanted but i didnt know how many wires they could safely hold so i tried to limit the hot to only a few per nut and tried to use as few as possible because i wanted all those connections to be secure.


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## biscuithead (Mar 30, 2014)

hey i have it set up like you but i dont have a pos going to the coil only two neg should i switch to having output + go to coil instead of two neg i cant imagine its getn powered by two negatives right


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## tharealmclovin (Mar 30, 2014)

WHat did you use to make the connection of the coil to your box? I see you hardwired it, like I did. What is that piece called...it looks nice.


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## budbro18 (Mar 30, 2014)

Yeah 2 negatives will not work well. hahahaha

The coil positive and negative for power are interchangeable so dont be afraid to wire it up! 

And im not sure what theyre called mclovin but its an electrical connection clamp type thing ive seen them on a bunch of things to keep wires still so they dont get yanked out.

ill try to look them up.


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## LiquidJunglist (Mar 31, 2014)

budbro18 said:


> Heres my wiring diagram. Theres less wires because the power inlet/switch are all in one so i just had the lines in the picture coming straight off the switch.
> 
> Reds are hot, blues neutral/negative, green are ground, orange are SSR, purple are TC
> 
> ...


Ok another question ok exactly where are each of these wires leading to from the inlet/switch wiring.. I know the PID and the Coil both need positive and negative power so are you splitting the wires from the inlet/switch wiring too go to each or is there 2 wires coming off the +, - and the Ground.. Hope I make since.

When I look at the diagram I see the 2 P, 2 N and the 2 G coming off the inlet/switch. Sorry if I'm asking a question that might have already been asked but I had to ask.


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## biscuithead (Mar 31, 2014)

Is there any way to check my ssr since I've had it the light only flipped on once for a split second when I wired it as soon as it came in the mail is it supposed to have the light on when working maybe I need a new one


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## budbro18 (Mar 31, 2014)

Sorry the wiring diagram kinda skips the power switch thing. I made it like that because not everyone is going to use the power switch/fuse/inlet combo that i use.

Basically i use 1 connector and 1 wire coming off of the hot then connect that to the switch and have the single wire output of the switch connect to 2 wires with a wire nut. 1 goes to the PID for power, 1 goes to the SSR input and comes out to go to the coil.

For the negative, i use 2 connectors and 2 wires since i have to bridge from the negative input to the switch which has no negative output. so the 2 white wires you see (not the far right one with the line on it thats ground) are actually wire nutted together with 2 other wires. One goes to the PID negative, the other goes to the coil negative. I was comfortable with this because its not the hot even though if it came loose and touched the hot id be in trouble but theyre some tight wire nuts so i should be good.


For the ground i just use 1 connector and only connected 2 wires to it. 1 for the coil ground which used another wire nut, and one for the SSR ground. 

I found this easier because i could have single short wires coming off the switch and then just attach any length of wire running off those into the rest of the body.




Im not sure what you can do to check your SSR. Maybe try hooking it up without the hot coming out to your coil. Thats what i did to test my pid worked fine and to set the temp so when i first plugged it in it wouldnt blast to a high temp and fuck my coil.

Did you get it from auber?? If so you either still have the connections wrong or you might have burnt it out somehow. Connecting the 2 negatives shouldnt have done anything bad so double check your SSR to PID connections and make sure theyre the same.


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## biscuithead (Mar 31, 2014)

I'm ordering a new ssr but does the light come on your ssr or not just wondering. Thanks again


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## budbro18 (Mar 31, 2014)

Yeah it blinks. whenever its on its letting power through. The PID algorithm looks like a sound wave so and the top of the crest it turns off and the bottom it turns on. Probably before the bottom but either way the light should be flashing.

Hope everything works out! You probably had it right the first time and your SSR was just bad. Or maybe hooked it up wrong once then right but it was already fried.


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## NOVAorganics (Apr 1, 2014)

Budbro. AreYouSellingBoxes Yet?


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## budbro18 (Apr 7, 2014)

Im hopin to soon! Puttin in orders for a 5pk of coils and the supplies for 5 of them! I want to do some pre order shit because my money is so tight between making vac chambers and runnin a bunch of tane the past few weeks. Glad this shits finally back!!

Did you just one one box or multiple?? I have my first one built and have had a few offers for it but its not so pretty lookin so i might not be able to let it go haha. 


Either way within 2-3 weeks i should have the first set of 5 built.


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## LiquidJunglist (Apr 7, 2014)

I'm also glad the site is back up. Seems smooth on my iPad. 

I should be getting all my parts ordered this week I hope, I'm in the same boat brother money is TIGHT.

I've been looking at the new pre wired coils from our buddies in China. But I'm kinda eh about there XLR I would much rather use a Neutrik XLR because I know there the bomb because I'm a Audio Engineer and the BEST XLRs are from them. There a mega solid when you click them into each other. 

So I'm getting a case that is a bit bigger from Hammond so I'm likely going to have enough room to wire everything. I can't wait to get it!!! Later I might design a case in a 3D program and have it made on Ponoko there very cool.


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## budbro18 (Apr 8, 2014)

Hell yeah im ordering new boxes too that are slightly bigger. I kinda like how it is with the non removable plug. I mean its removable if need be but its pretty solid and only really ands like an inch to the total length when wrapped up. haha


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## budbro18 (Apr 8, 2014)

Plastic project box V2

http://www.mpja.com/725in-X-45in-X-252in-Black-Plastic-Box-Enclosure/productinfo/15883 BX/


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## tharealmclovin (Apr 8, 2014)

Any luck figuring out what that coil connector is called? I have been looking at all the stores locally. Without knowing what its called I sound stupid trying to ask.


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## budbro18 (Apr 8, 2014)

no not yet ill have to just bring one in somewhere and ask around. Its such a weird little piece that everyones seen theyre just hard to name.


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## tharealmclovin (Apr 9, 2014)

id call it a cord protector or something, but when I ask nobody knows what i am talking about. Even went as far as looking in the lamp section at menards with no luck


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## budbro18 (Apr 9, 2014)

Yeah i have a few left. Ill have to bring them to a few stores and see who knows what. A lot of retired carpenters and handymen seem to work there so theyd probably know. Might even need to look in a hobby store. Theres an electric hobby store by me they might know something.


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## NOVAorganics (Apr 11, 2014)

hell yeah im def wanting a unit from you. i can wait tho, im in mid flower at the moment so dont have but a little solventless left. Im not a bho guy. but hell yeah i want one if your still talking around 200 bucks range .... let me know there are a lot of companies coming out this year! WOW. but for sure i want. are you goijng to be able to offer any warranty on these? i know this is down the road still but...warranty work would be a major selling point for me.


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## budbro18 (Apr 11, 2014)

Im lookin to sell em for $250 which is about the lowest i think anyone is going to go unless theyre having them assembled in china for pennies an hour haha.

As for warranty ive been thinkin of having a "replace the parts for cost"

This wouldnt be too bad because there are only 2 parts that ever break on them the SSR or the coil and even then its 75% of the time the coil.

I just wish i could make the internals simple enough that i could just send the part to the person and have them install it themselves. But most likely youd have to ship it back and have me fix it.

I should have 3 of them built and ready for sale by the end of the month. Just put in orders for most of my parts. Got new project boxes that are slightly bigger and i got an extra for my first enail so i can have it fit without lookin all bent like it was.

Im pretty sure these first ones arent going to have a plug. They might but im probably just going to hard wire them. I hate that all the XLR and DIN connectors are screw mount vs a surface mount type. I hate those extra screws and id have to get some nuts and bolts for them since i have a plastic box so it just wouldnt be worth it.

Hopefully im able to get them thoroughly tested too so i know the average life expectancy. The pid and ssr should last the longest and the coil will probably be the first thing to go.


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## budbro18 (Apr 12, 2014)

So anyone havin any luck on finding a glass/quartz blower to make some of those domeless quartz enail nails??


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## tharealmclovin (Apr 12, 2014)

I sent Joel Halen a message on FB and told him I was making a DIY Enail. His Quartz usually retail for $200, but he was willing to give it to me for $100. That was the cheapest I found, so I got Ti.


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## budbro18 (Apr 12, 2014)

100 isnt a terrible price! 

I found this guy though


http://www.dabstation.bigcartel.com/product/hotbox-universal-nail

http://www.dabstation.bigcartel.com/product/grade-2-titanium-threaded-washer

So for $60 you can have a real nice set up for a flat coil enail which is what im going to be doing.


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## LiquidJunglist (Apr 13, 2014)

I was thinking the same thing. Let me know how good they are.


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## budbro18 (Apr 13, 2014)

For sure should be good!


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## biscuithead (Apr 13, 2014)

hey I have some questions for you budbro. ok what type of wire did you use exactly first. and I got a new ssr and coil but I still have no rise in temp even though it is definitely set up right. could I have possibly burned out one of the wires themselves or could It be because they are copper wire..


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## budbro18 (Apr 13, 2014)

Im using 16 awg like in the DIY and its copper. from home depot. Nothin fancy.

Im not sure what you could have done wrong? If you managed to connect the ssr and the pid than you should have your coil hooked up right.


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## nme (Apr 13, 2014)

What's everyone running their PID settings at these days? I don't really like to mess with it but I was thinking it might need to be adjusted some. It overshoots about 150* initially...then levels out but overshoots again by about 10* after each dab.


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## watdaheo808 (Apr 14, 2014)

budbro18 said:


> 100 isnt a terrible price!
> 
> I found this guy though
> 
> ...


If you're thinking of buying the Nail from him for $60, you should check out eBay. You could pick up 1 for $25-30


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## budbro18 (Apr 14, 2014)

watdaheo808 said:


> If you're thinking of buying the Nail from him for $60, you should check out eBay. You could pick up 1 for $25-30



I feel like too many of the cheap ebay ones are either made of non grade 2 Ti or some of the parts arent ti at all. Alot of times the middle threaded rod and the caps for the male/female fittings are stainless and nothing but the dish you actually dab off is Ti and sometimes even thats shitty Ti


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## budbro18 (Apr 14, 2014)

nme said:


> What's everyone running their PID settings at these days? I don't really like to mess with it but I was thinking it might need to be adjusted some. It overshoots about 150* initially...then levels out but overshoots again by about 10* after each dab.


It def shouldnt be overshooting by 150 degrees thats for sure. Are you using the regular PID from the original DIY? If so thats the problem.

Thats why i went with the auber one. Same price/slightly more expensive but it actively adjusts to whatever you plug into it. So if i had 1 of the flat coils and wanted to plug it into my enail but i was running the round coils with different settings, when i plugged it in it realizes somethings different and adjusts the settings by itself.

On top of that you can autotune it for more accurate PID settings. Mine overshoots by 15 in about 2-3 minutes then takes another 2 minutes or so to drop to temp. Only really drops about 5-10 degrees when dabbing. More depends on how much we move the coil more than how hard we hit it. If its a long pass across the table the air movement will drop the temp more than hitting it will haha,


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## jdee (Apr 14, 2014)

So when soldering my xlr connector I messed up causing the plastic holding the pins to melt slightly, this may or may not be the cause of the problem I just experienced. I leave my unit on 24/7 but after today won't be doing that anymore. Thankfully I was near the unit when the SSR failed, causing it to stay in the ON position, meaning the power direct from the outlet was going straight to the coil, and switching the power switch does not stop the coil, only unplugging from the outlet does. I saw others run into this issue as well and it was attributed to either a short in the xlr connector or a failed SSR causing it to stay always on and get extremely hot and glowing. Thankfully it's only a $3 part.


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## budbro18 (Apr 14, 2014)

Damn i have no idea how that could happen but its nuts! Thats why i went with auber. Its a few bucks more than the everyday SSR but im hoping that will translate into slightly better QC. Theyre designed in the US and made in china so they probably get twice the QC once over there and once when they get back id assume to make sure no shipping caused any damage. 

I HIGHLY recommend anyone following this to go with the AUBER PID and SSR. Very quick shipping out of Georgia and quality parts for a more than reasonable price. 

I also chose to go with a hard wired coil for size and convenience. It only adds about an inch to the overall length which is not bad at all. Im thinking of something i can attach to help hold the coil. I use a velcro zip tie that is nice for wires and shit but it doesnt hold it in place on top. Maybe some kind of clip so after you wrap the velcro zip tie you can clip the coil into it right on top.

For more information i recommend looking up people using them for cookers because theyre set up the exact same way. Also, "kiln controllers" has turned up some good info for me on youtube.


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## nme (Apr 14, 2014)

budbro18 said:


> More depends on how much we move the coil more than how hard we hit it. If its a long pass across the table the air movement will drop the temp more than hitting it will haha,


Seriously? I've done many hours of dabbin and development and haven't noticed that.


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## budbro18 (Apr 14, 2014)

Yeah we all take pretty solid hits. Not very big ones more just back to back to back little ones so that might be it too? Less oil to heat up. Also if youre dabbin wax it might be loosin a lot of heat meltin it down to liquid. a lot of heat being 10-20 degrees haha.


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## Waterfelic Glass (Apr 15, 2014)

budbro18 said:


> Yeah we all take pretty solid hits. Not very big ones more just back to back to back little ones so that might be it too? Less oil to heat up. Also if youre dabbin wax it might be loosin a lot of heat meltin it down to liquid. a lot of heat being 10-20 degrees haha.



Hey man I just made an account on here to talk to you can you email or something? I don't know how to message one here...


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## Terpfiend (Apr 17, 2014)

Sirdabsalot462 said:


> I go pretty hot as I like the couch lock-narcotic effect....
> 
> So, for my night-time dabs I set it around 510° C= 1000° ish F
> 
> ...


Waaaaaay to hot bro! You aren't even supposed to really heat the coils that hot for long periods of time. If you want want to enjoy your concentrate leave it around 700 F. I I like mine at 650!


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## biscuithead (Apr 17, 2014)

hey so I know the first time I wired my coil I put the ac to one of the thermocouples and I guess that's when the ssr stopped blinking but now I have replaced everything but the pid and it still wont heat up. could I have messed up the pid or what. I bought replacement flat (180w) and round (250w) gimido coils and the only one I hooked up was flat but when I set to 600 and start autotune nothing changes. do I need do do something to the pid to make it heat up or what could be wrong. I can see the temp on the screen of the pid tho. hopefully someone can help me out but im guna order another pid and use all new parts because I know its wired right


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## Sirdabsalot462 (Apr 17, 2014)

Terpfiend said:


> Waaaaaay to hot bro! You aren't even supposed to really heat the coils that hot for long periods of time. If you want want to enjoy your concentrate leave it around 700 F. I I like mine at 650!


Thanks for the tip sir ...

After some study, I have it dialed down to about 450° F

700° F for night time dabs.

Appreciate the feedback though, cheers.

I've also been testing an analog Enail, MUCH cheaper with the same effect...but temps are not quite as precise.

That being said, my temps at first were very high, and too hot...hence the testing.

The gentleman that built the units, suggested the temps I was using at first, I was still getting a very nice flavor and a very nice effect.

But, after turning temps down...the taste and effect improved.


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## budbro18 (Apr 18, 2014)

biscuithead said:


> hey so I know the first time I wired my coil I put the ac to one of the thermocouples and I guess that's when the ssr stopped blinking but now I have replaced everything but the pid and it still wont heat up. could I have messed up the pid or what. I bought replacement flat (180w) and round (250w) gimido coils and the only one I hooked up was flat but when I set to 600 and start autotune nothing changes. do I need do do something to the pid to make it heat up or what could be wrong. I can see the temp on the screen of the pid tho. hopefully someone can help me out but im guna order another pid and use all new parts because I know its wired right



Im not sure man. Do you have your +/- hooked up right for controlling your ssr?? Having those backwards could do it.


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## watdaheo808 (Apr 18, 2014)

biscuithead said:


> hey so I know the first time I wired my coil I put the ac to one of the thermocouples and I guess that's when the ssr stopped blinking but now I have replaced everything but the pid and it still wont heat up. could I have messed up the pid or what. I bought replacement flat (180w) and round (250w) gimido coils and the only one I hooked up was flat but when I set to 600 and start autotune nothing changes. do I need do do something to the pid to make it heat up or what could be wrong. I can see the temp on the screen of the pid tho. hopefully someone can help me out but im guna order another pid and use all new parts because I know its wired right


What brand PID are you using? Is it a mypin? If it is, you're not suppose to use the autotune function at all. It can and will blow out your coil from what I've heard..


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## budbro18 (Apr 18, 2014)

I use auber. Worth it and not that much more expensive. Make good SSRs too.


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## budbro18 (Apr 19, 2014)

Blue dream shatter


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## buckfiddy (Apr 26, 2014)

i have the mypin temp controller and right when i turn it on my coil gets really hot without me pressing set does any know what the problem is and i set the P,I,D to the setting they gave on reddit


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## buckfiddy (Apr 26, 2014)

tharealmclovin said:


> Had issues soldering my connections too. I am still missing a switch and just hardwired the Coil for now. I am testing and will hopefully get everything connected in the next few days with solder.
> 
> View attachment 3031766


what are your setting on your pid or how did you do it


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## watdaheo808 (Apr 27, 2014)

buckfiddy said:


> i have the mypin temp controller and right when i turn it on my coil gets really hot without me pressing set does any know what the problem is and i set the P,I,D to the setting they gave on reddit


Check that you have it set to the right thermocouple for the coil (K or J) and make sure you have it set to Fahrenheit. Otherwise your PID settings are a bit off.


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## buckfiddy (Apr 28, 2014)

watdaheo808 said:


> Check that you have it set to the right thermocouple for the coil (K or J) and make sure you have it set to Fahrenheit. Otherwise your PID settings are a bit off.


i have a 10mm d-nail coil and its on Fahrenheit and its on K.. idk if any of the other settings are messed up


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## watdaheo808 (Apr 29, 2014)

buckfiddy said:


> i have a 10mm d-nail coil and its on Fahrenheit and its on K.. idk if any of the other settings are messed up


How much does your e-nail overshoot by? Also does it glow red after you turn it on or does it slowly heat up then dim down? If you're using the D-nail coils, you should jump on reddit and test out the PID settings people posted up.
Here's something I got online that might help -

if it overshoots a lot and oscillates, either the integral gain needs to be increased or all gains should be reduced
Too much overshoot? Increase D, decrease P.
Response too damped? Increase P.
Ramps up quickly to a value below target temperature (0-160 fast) and then slows down as it approaches target (160-170 slow, 170-180 really slow, etc) temperature? Try increasing the I constant.


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## jdee (Apr 29, 2014)

I also noticed there was a difference in PID settings if the heater was 100w vs 250w for example


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## buckfiddy (Apr 29, 2014)

watdaheo808 said:


> How much does your e-nail overshoot by? Also does it glow red after you turn it on or does it slowly heat up then dim down? If you're using the D-nail coils, you should jump on reddit and test out the PID settings people posted up.
> Here's something I got online that might help -
> 
> if it overshoots a lot and oscillates, either the integral gain needs to be increased or all gains should be reduced
> ...


when i turn it on it starts to glow red and ill try playing with the settings and get some pics on here


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## budbro18 (May 3, 2014)

Yeah 100w coils need very different PID settings. Sorry ive been away so long internet doesnt get set up for another few days.

Thats why i HIGHLY recommend auber PID controllers. Theyre barely more expensive than the mypins but their autotune is on point. As well as their Ai that is always monitoring and adjusting to whatever you have plugged in. So even with i plugged it in for the first time it shoots up to temp but doesnt over shoot by too much. I turned it down to a cooler temp and autotuned it. Ran it up to full temp after that to see how it was. Then killed it til it cooled down for a few hours. Then autotuned it to 700F and it worked like a charm ever since.

HIGHLY HIGHLY RECOMMEND AUBER PID and SSR.


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## buckfiddy (May 3, 2014)

Thanks I'll will look In to the pid is there a certain model that you prefer...and would this work better


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## budbro18 (May 5, 2014)

Yes the auber 1/32 din PID controller. Im not sure how the other ones act but i would assume similar.







http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=14


And if anyone knows a little more about batteries and run times youre more than welcome to start on a battery powered one.

Just use this controller: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=83

Basically just the DC version of the one above. Ive been thinkin about it for a while and it would definitely work just not sure how hot vs how long haha. Just another thing to keep ya thinkin.


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## LiquidJunglist (May 7, 2014)

I've been wondering about that. Great idea. ^_^


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## tommychong410 (May 8, 2014)

Your the man budbro way better than the reddit site, made an account just to talk to you and buy a unit.


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## LiquidJunglist (May 8, 2014)

buckfiddy said:


> View attachment 3143917 Thanks I'll will look In to the pid is there a certain model that you prefer...and would this work better


There good also the everyone is different when it comes to what PID they prefer. All of the Auber PID are bomb.

The next step other then the DC enail would be a PID that can do more then one coil on single PID. For example... If you have two coils with TC's, 1 PID with 2 screens on the PID so you can put different temps on each coil. That would be amazing.


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## SP_IV (May 8, 2014)

just sayin thanks for the info man.

ordered all the parts today so hopefully ill have it built in a couple weeks max.
ended up going with the OG highly educated e nail and a coil from d nail. plus a dropdown for it.

I should have done this months ago haha


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## budbro18 (May 8, 2014)

Thanks guys! I figured i was goin into it so i might as well help educate everyone else.

If youre following the guide make sure you get the bigger box that i posted about.

As for nail i just got the picture of the custom TI ones i had made. Basically the highly educated OG enail but slightly different with interchangeable male/female 10/14/18mm down stems







Here they are without the 10/14/18mm plugs/caps


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## tommychong410 (May 8, 2014)

Damn you can get 14/18 male and female with this insert??


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## budbro18 (May 9, 2014)

Yeah you just screw it onto the bottom threads. Its not so much an insert like the enail insert for the infiniti nails, but a whole nail. 14/18 male 14/18 female 10mm male 10mm female. Not 100% on the 10mms yet but def the 14/18s will be available.


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## tommychong410 (May 9, 2014)

Oh damn how much would one be with 18 female?


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## buckfiddy (May 9, 2014)

LiquidJunglist said:


> There good also the everyone is different when it comes to what PID they prefer. All of the Auber PID are bomb.
> 
> The next step other then the DC enail would be a PID that can do more then one coil on single PID. For example... If you have two coils with TC's, 1 PID with 2 screens on the PID so you can put different temps on each coil. That would be amazing.


So the one I put up in the pic would work?? Being a ssr control output..cause I already have the square cut out for it and don't wont to get another box


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## biscuithead (May 9, 2014)

hey I kinda gave up for a little while but budbro im about to build a whole new setup with new everything the same as yours except a crydom 25a ssr could you please post another drawing but with the power inlet more specific and showing the brass pin because mine is flipped of yours and I blew a fuse in it which may have damaged something else when I set it up how you originally told me but when I replaced the inlet plug combo rocker nothing changed I think I had it right before but im guna start from scratch again. thanks man I was way to frustrated I just got everything new.


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## budbro18 (May 9, 2014)

tommychong410 said:


> Oh damn how much would one be with 18 female?


Probably 50 or 60 i have to get the final figures on price and discounts on bulk orders worked out. Theyll be as low as i can sell em and still make my 2 cents.


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## budbro18 (May 9, 2014)

buckfiddy said:


> So the one I put up in the pic would work?? Being a ssr control output..cause I already have the square cut out for it and don't wont to get another box


Possibly. Im not sure if the built in SSR will be as reliable. The reason people use the 25a SSRs is because theyre made to handle a solid 15-22 amps with a heat sink. So when running about 2 amps on it there is virtually no heat and extends the life of it. But if youre using a lower amp one you are in on your own as far as me knowing/helping. Itll operate the same but might get too hot if left on for really long periods. Only know by testing!

But you can use a 1/16th din PID controller that will fit in the same size hole. Just need an SSR to add to it.


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## budbro18 (May 9, 2014)

biscuithead said:


> hey I kinda gave up for a little while but budbro im about to build a whole new setup with new everything the same as yours except a crydom 25a ssr could you please post another drawing but with the power inlet more specific and showing the brass pin because mine is flipped of yours and I blew a fuse in it which may have damaged something else when I set it up how you originally told me but when I replaced the inlet plug combo rocker nothing changed I think I had it right before but im guna start from scratch again. thanks man I was way to frustrated I just got everything new.


Im workin on the whole DIY video as we speak. Ill have very detailed videos/pictures/instructions. Might even start a new thread just to post everything so people dont have to dig through this one. Ill inform everyone though and post on both probably.


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## tommychong410 (May 9, 2014)

budbro18 said:


> Probably 50 or 60 i have to get the final figures on price and discounts on bulk orders worked out. Theyll be as low as i can sell em and still make my 2 cents.


That's crazy I was about to buy a humboldt for 345 then buy an infiniti nail for 120 and your saving meee so much cash! Hopefully you can sell me a unit soon??


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## budbro18 (May 10, 2014)

Hell yeah im workin as we speak on that as well. Hope to be able to help you out. 

Nail and enail for less than 345!!


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## tommychong410 (May 10, 2014)

Your the man bud bro seriously saving me a lot of money I don't really have to spend. Thank you so much for being a boss.


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## budbro18 (May 10, 2014)

Thanks again. Just tryna bring it to the masses!


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## tommychong410 (May 10, 2014)

I've been wanting a enail for like a year now and could never commit to making my own or just ordering one now I know now your a boss and should help me out


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## budbro18 (May 10, 2014)

Im helpin everyone out! 

Heres how i see it. Its $150 in parts, takes me 2-4 hours to assemble each, i sell for $250-$275 possibly $300 with the nail combo. Thats me making $100 for 2-4 hours of work. So $25-$50 an hour is a more than living wage for me. I have very few bills and am self employed in many fields so i have enough to get by.

And i fucking hate "luxury tax" if you will. Just because someone invests a couple bucks in supplies and labor doesnt mean they deserve to rape people. And fuck humboldt enail. I liked him at first but after seeing how he wines and cries about people "stealing his design" when Task made it originally really annoyed me. Then he went and stole someone elses coil design. I called him out and he blocked me. Good riddance. 

Doing my own research for PID controllers Auber is like the 3rd thing that comes up on google. I found the exact PID he used with no help from him. So if i wouldnt have been following his IG i could have started a company and sold them and he could have called me out for "copying" his design.

So fuck him and anyone charging a ridiculous amount for their enail. I dont have a 5 year warranty but i will gladly replace any broken parts for cost of parts. So at max you would pay another $150 for a fully rebuilt enail if every part failed on you. At that price you basically are getting 2 enails for $400. And id be glad to replace any broken parts after that as well. It also could cost you nothing if the parts are still under warrant from auber (pid/ssr) Coils tend to be the main thing to go from what ive seen.

So even at that im making enough money to not feel like im assembling iphones and can sell my QUALITY product for a price WELL below the market average. Same QUALITY parts humboldt enail uses (not all the same parts just same quality)

Also S/O to @domelessdeamon if i spelled that correctly. HEs doing thangs for the people with an analog enail for $150 or $200. Either way hes tryin to help people like i am and i fully support his work at domeless.com


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## tommychong410 (May 10, 2014)

When will your units be available to buy? With the nail ?


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## budbro18 (May 10, 2014)

First 3 should be done soon week or so at this point. nails should be in in a week possibly less. Gotta do some testing and make sure everything fits and functions how i want it to.

Ill get movin double time now that i know you really want one.


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## tommychong410 (May 10, 2014)

That's awesome hell yeah I'm sure a lot of people want them. What state are you out of?


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## budbro18 (May 10, 2014)

rather not say haha


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## tommychong410 (May 10, 2014)

Word man sorry just was wondering where it's coming from, please let me know on here or email when your ready to get rid of a enail unit


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## budbro18 (May 10, 2014)

i will youll be first on the list.


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## tommychong410 (May 10, 2014)

Thank you so much boss.


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## watdaheo808 (May 12, 2014)

budbro18 said:


> Thanks guys! I figured i was goin into it so i might as well help educate everyone else.
> 
> If youre following the guide make sure you get the bigger box that i posted about.
> 
> ...


Do you have any pictures of the interchangeable male/female adapters?


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## budbro18 (May 12, 2014)

No but theyre similar to ones already out there

I basically just had a guy take his design for the post coil domeless nails and make it the right diameter and height for the 16mm coils.


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## LiquidJunglist (May 13, 2014)

All I'm interested in 1 with a 10mm male adapter. Looking to buy a separate coil and nail for a 10mm travel rig.

Also BudBro could you give me a idea on how much power the unit pulls? I've been wanting to build a DIY Portable Power Station for when I go camping and/or hiking. I'm going to in time do the DC Enail but want to get my feet wet with the AC. Just wanted to see how big a battery I might need to get. 

If you have a Kill-a-watt or a tester you could tell how much it pulls when it heats and when the dab hits the nail.


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## Fadedawg (May 13, 2014)

Just a mockup to try it out, but here is a jury rig we did for trials and to have a unit on hand to help Waywardwolf sort out a complete unit over the phone, that we built in SoCal and which as it turns out, has a defective Mypin controller.

It is in learning mode, so the lower number isn't the set point. That was actually 600F and the nail works slick.


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## duval904 (May 13, 2014)

I have Digital E-Nail's for sale now that was put together very similarly to this and has been dialed in to not overshoot and maintains a perfect temp for low temp dabbing at 710 F. If you're interested pm me or check out my page. FULLY CUSTOMIZABLE with any decal and made to order so you know the most precision was put into each unit made just for you!!!

https://www.rollitup.org/t/low-temp-dabbing.828549/


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## budbro18 (May 13, 2014)

Well its only a 125-200w coil max. So not that much. About as much as a few old incandescent bulbs. But most of that is on start up. 

Unfortunately i dont have a killawatt but i would assume it would be like an electric oven. Larger amount at the beginning then small amounts once it gets flowin.

Maybe someone who has one on here would be kind enough to hook it up to their killawatt if they have it. 

I know people keep em on 24/7 almost and dont see a noticeable increase in their electric bill.


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## biscuithead (May 13, 2014)

Thanks budbro I'm Anxious as hell


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## budbro18 (May 13, 2014)

Fadedawg said:


> Just a mockup to try it out, but here is a jury rig we did for trials and to have a unit on hand to help Waywardwolf sort out a complete unit over the phone, that we built in SoCal and which as it turns out, has a defective Mypin controller.
> 
> It is in learning mode, so the lower number isn't the set point. That was actually 600F and the nail works slick.View attachment 3151937



Lookin good man! If i were you though id fuck with Auber. 5-10 bucks more than the shitty mypins and they have amazing autotune. As well as constant Ai so if you tune it in a house thats 75 then take it to a friends who keeps his house chilly in the 60s it will compensate for ambient temp and sense the difference in fluctuations and adjust accordingly. 

On top of that theyre a US company and have a very nice warranty. Best PID for an Enail on the market today. IMHO

auber SSRs are good as fuck too! same warranty and company.


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## tommychong410 (May 13, 2014)

duval904 said:


> I have Digital E-Nail's for sale now that was put together very similarly to this and has been dialed in to not overshoot and maintains a perfect temp for low temp dabbing at 710 F. If you're interested pm me or check out my page. FULLY CUSTOMIZABLE with any decal and made to order so you know the most precision was put into each unit made just for you!!!
> 
> https://www.rollitup.org/t/low-temp-dabbing.828549/


Your charging to much man


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## budbro18 (May 13, 2014)

For anyone who wishes to contact me ive set up an email for my new site which will be startin up in a month or so.

Please try to contact the email for purchasing info and product info and keep the thread for design/building issues/questions. 

[email protected]


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## duval904 (May 13, 2014)

tommychong410 said:


> Your charging to much man


I only use the highest quality coils directly from D-Nail and they have gone through rigorous testing to insure that they heat up evenly and do not overshoot by more than 5 degrees and never drops below 5-10 degrees upon taking a dab with a carb cap. Every box is fully customizable so you can send me whatever picture you would like as a decal and i will wrap your box exactly to your liking. There are two switches: 1 in the back turns the power on to the temperature controller and the 2nd switch in the front turns on the heat to the coil. This way you can have turn off the heat to your coil and still see the temperature as it drops so you know when it is safe to touch or pack up for travel.

Most importantly: These aren't simply homemade DIY E-Nail's. These have been tested and perfected to give the consumer the upmost convenience and performance.

Also, I include a 1 year warranty on the box and a 90 day warranty on the coil.

Let me know if you are interested and maybe you can check out my instagram to see my unit in action.

Instagram name: shatter_box

http://instagram.com/p/n6gd6eFOPx/


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## budbro18 (May 13, 2014)

I use very high quality parts as well. My coils were made to exact specs we wanted. 

My box over shoots by 16F then drops to set temp and sits.

For $250 bucks theres no warranty but i will replace any part for strictly cost of parts. The PID/SSR have a 1 year warranty but i havent worked with aubers Returns and Refunds department so im not sure the conditions in which it fail causing a full refund. Besides that the case is 5 bucks, power cord/inlet should never fuck up.

As for the coils like stated above you will get it for cost. Im workin on the XLR plugs but i really like the hard mounted option for them.

Only downside is if/when the coil eventually does fail youd have to send it back to me VS me sending you a coil. 

So my first few boxes have gone to local people so i can make "house calls" in case they have trouble. Those have been tested by heavy dabbers who use them regularly with not fails/complaints in about 2 months maybe more. 

Im not knockin your hustle but dont knock mine. People assume just because its lower price that its lower quality parts when im using similar/same parts as many "high quality enails" are using. I just like helping the community VS making money. I make enough to get by dont need a mansion and 6 cars from rippin people off and over chargin. 

Just charge 50% less and have 2x the amount of business. Simple as that. 

Keep doin your thang like i said not knockin anyone im just doin my thaaaaaang


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## tommychong410 (May 13, 2014)

Your nail that comes with it is HE correct?


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## budbro18 (May 13, 2014)

Mine? No i had them made myself but HE did start with them so its based off their design.


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## Globber_Daniel (May 13, 2014)

been reading up on these.. i was wondering if anyone knew if i could use the power inlet/switch to control the power to the PID to read the temp of the nail and then instal another rocker switch on the front to turn on the actual coil? the initial wiring diagram shows 2 switches so i am assuming that is what it is for? any info would be much appreciated and thanks budbro for this badass thread!


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## Globber_Daniel (May 13, 2014)

also with the coils from the link on redit. ( http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/ID-15-8mm-Height12-7mm-120V100W-D-nail-Coil-Heater-Fast-Shipping-Thermocouple-K-Kevlar-Sleeve/730974_1857941423.html ) does any one know if they come with the male XLR already attached like in the picture or would i have to solder it my self?


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## tommychong410 (May 13, 2014)

Oh word budbro but please tell me it's certified grade 2 titanium? Hopefully made in the USA


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## budbro18 (May 13, 2014)

Globber_Daniel said:


> been reading up on these.. i was wondering if anyone knew if i could use the power inlet/switch to control the power to the PID to read the temp of the nail and then instal another rocker switch on the front to turn on the actual coil? the initial wiring diagram shows 2 switches so i am assuming that is what it is for? any info would be much appreciated and thanks budbro for this badass thread!


Yes you can thats what some have but i like sleek and simple.


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## budbro18 (May 13, 2014)

tommychong410 said:


> Oh word budbro but please tell me it's certified grade 2 titanium? Hopefully made in the USA


Of course i dont fuck around haha. Also workin on quartz enail pieces and drop downs and the likes.


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## tommychong410 (May 13, 2014)

Hell yeahhhhh and I need like 3 drop downs...


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## Globber_Daniel (May 13, 2014)

thanks for the clarification man.. any idea about the coils from that site and if they come with the XLR male attached and if it comes with a XLR female port or would that be separate?? sorry about all the questions im just trying to get my drawings and supplies together and didnt want to order to many parts or have to wait a week because i thought everything was included. thanks again


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## Fadedawg (May 14, 2014)

budbro18 said:


> Lookin good man! If i were you though id fuck with Auber. 5-10 bucks more than the shitty mypins and they have amazing autotune. As well as constant Ai so if you tune it in a house thats 75 then take it to a friends who keeps his house chilly in the 60s it will compensate for ambient temp and sense the difference in fluctuations and adjust accordingly.
> 
> On top of that theyre a US company and have a very nice warranty. Best PID for an Enail on the market today. IMHO
> 
> auber SSRs are good as fuck too! same warranty and company.


Thanks for the heads up, I'll check out the Auber. I notice it has been promoted as a better choice on this thread and others, but I needed to build one exactly like the one in So Cal which wouldn't work, where the parts were owner furnished.

I also just happen to have one more Mypin lying around, from picking up 15 of them off E-bay, for various beta projects. I only paid $16 apiece for them, but alas it was $26/each, by the time they got through porking me on shipment. So far all of mine worked, but the one in So Cal is seemingly busted, soooo thus far it is about a 6% failure rate.

No idea what was done to it, before it was turned over to WW to finish, so that number is tongue in cheek. Things get dropped and shit happens...................

What failure rate have you seen with the Auber?


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## Fadedawg (May 14, 2014)

budbro18 said:


> Well its only a 125-200w coil max. So not that much. About as much as a few old incandescent bulbs. But most of that is on start up.
> 
> Unfortunately i dont have a killawatt but i would assume it would be like an electric oven. Larger amount at the beginning then small amounts once it gets flowin.
> 
> ...


In these parts, 200W 24/7 would cost about $14.00/Mo.


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## budbro18 (May 14, 2014)

Thats not bad itd be around 10 per month for me. 

But heres the thing it only draws that 200w if that on start up. Once its up there it coasts into the PID wave pulsing a much lower amount of power through it. Im not sure exactly how much but thats the whole point of the PID algorithm is to fluctuate the current to hold a stable temp. 

You probably know way more about that then me so i dont know why im sayin it haha.

Ive wanted to make my own vac oven of sorts because they seem easy ish. We have a ton of 304 stainless sheet metal and the abilities to make a solid one. Mount the heating element connect to the pid/ssr find a good place to put the thermocouple. Id probably make it like a giant vac pot but square. with the lid on top.

Back to the subject. I havent put it through its paces but it seemed to be solid. Ive tested my unit thoroughly but from what ive seen its the coil that fucks up first then depending on which SSR you get it can possibly fail if its too small. I like everything about the functionality of it. Easy to work with. Some people like the double row temp for set temp and current temp but i like it. Im also gonna start ordering them with different color front displays. haha. 

The AI is perfect. I just uploaded a video for it and ill post it shortly.


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## budbro18 (May 14, 2014)




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## tommychong410 (May 14, 2014)

What's AI exactly man?


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## tommychong410 (May 14, 2014)

One more question haha is the coil on your unit going to be removeable?


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## LiquidJunglist (May 14, 2014)

Where did ya get the fuses just RS?


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## budbro18 (May 14, 2014)

AI is artificial intelligence. 

as for the fuses i got 6 amp fuses from radio shack because they didnt have the 10 or 15 amp ones. 

My coils will be removable the first few i made werent.


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## LiquidJunglist (May 15, 2014)

Also like your idea on a Vac Oven. If you make one do one that is smaller for some guys like me who don't have room for a big lab but are down to make a small pro level lab. I've seen some small ones but there old and used. Wouldn't trust them.

I've though of making one myself but wanted to do the enail first. I'm going call Auber tomorrow about just going over to pick my PID and SRR up. I live less then 20 mins from Alpharetta I happen to have grown up there so it would be be nice to see the changes. If not PID and SSR will be ordered.

BudBro did you start a website yet for your enails?


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## tommychong410 (May 15, 2014)

Ok cool thanks for staying active in this forum can't wait to get a nice ass enail with the removeable coil from you budbro


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## budbro18 (May 15, 2014)

Thanks guys cant wait to get this shit finished! The website is slowly comin along. Still waitin on all the supplies to come in and bulk up on enails before i start it up. Trying to figure out how to do this pre order shit. I dont like deadlines and i dont like taking money and not immediately shipping out what was paid for. 

Its in full swing over here lifes been a little crazy lately. So many things goin on its hard to keep track.


I have this thread and the enails to make, the nails im getting made, my glass guy workin on drop downs and quartz domeless enail nails, website to design and code and purchase domain name. Thats just my website life.

Then we get to growing and i have my 2x4 veg and 4x4 flower to tend to, trying to upgrade to a 4x8 or 5x10 as we speak, so doubling production, tryin to get super soil ready for this years outdoor season, getting all the pots and clones ready for that.

THEN! I have my hash making life. Ordering butane and vac chambers and blasting tubes, talking to closed loop makers, parting out the costs of making it myself, drawing designs, doing calculations to make sure everything will work (im bad at math) finding welders, making a DIY fume hood with explosion proof fans. And last but not least turning the product into killa shatter. 

So thats strictly my weed life. On top of my regular life and working ive managed to learn/think while sleeping hahaha

Ive got a ton on my plate right now but im hustlin to get it done for you guys and everyone here. Gonna be doing a big thread on my BHO tek soon and hopefully not too long after that ill be able to make one using my closed loop! Give insights on vac time/temp as well as which products to use and which to avoid. Im not sponsored by any of those people i just find good quality shit and stick with it until i am unsatisfied. 

WEEEEW that was long winded. Sorry guys. But yeah ill be staying active on here as much as i can so if theres a slight delay in my response figure im doing on of the above hahaha.

Really glad this thread took off and people are finding it useful. The reddit one was so fucking annoying to find information.

Like i said before im probably gonna make a new one to post just my pictures and videos so its nice and stream lined and use this thread for discussion.

Ok thats the end. Hope to talk to you guys soon. BACK ON THE GRIND.


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## budbro18 (May 15, 2014)

Some music to listen to while reading/dabbing.


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## budbro18 (May 15, 2014)

Also, anyone who wants to follow me on IG its BPK_dank


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## SP_IV (May 17, 2014)

Finished everything yesterday and it seems to work fine so far. Thanks again man. 

All I did was run the auto tune at 600F and it's vaping nicely right now. But I did notice it over shot by about 30 degrees this morning when I turned it on. And drops 5 or 10 when I take a dab.

What pid settings have you found work best?


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## budbro18 (May 17, 2014)

Ive only used the autotune to dial in mine. Mine is set to 700 and it over shoots by 15-16 then drops about 5-10 when i take a dab and use a carb cap. Without the carb cap it drops a little less. haha. 

Ive been wantin to delve into PID settings but im not sure where to start. the autotune works so well for me and it has the exact same stats as the humboldt enail. 15 over shoot and about 5-10 drop on a dab. 

I like the box too! I gotta get on my solder game with the XLRs. Might have to outsource it.


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## Fadedawg (May 18, 2014)

budbro18 said:


> Thats not bad itd be around 10 per month for me.
> 
> But heres the thing it only draws that 200w if that on start up. Once its up there it coasts into the PID wave pulsing a much lower amount of power through it. Im not sure exactly how much but thats the whole point of the PID algorithm is to fluctuate the current to hold a stable temp.
> 
> ...



Valid point, the coil is not actually on 24/7, because the controller pulses the power. It is on maybe 10% of the time............. 

$14/Mo is 200W for 24/7.


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## budbro18 (May 18, 2014)

Yupp its a weird thing. If i had a kill a watt id hook it up and read it during hits after hits when its idling when its heating up. thatd be some interesting shit to know.


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## SP_IV (May 18, 2014)

Yeah the auto tune definitley seems to work just fine. I was just curious if anyone had already messed with theirs yet. I'm just gonna run it the way it is for now haha. 

But I installed a switch in my box to turn the power on/off to the coil. So when the switch is in off position the thermocouple is still reading but the heating element is off. 
Which makes the pid think it needs to send a signal the entire time since it's sitting way below the set temp and won't heat.

I'm wondering if it constantly sending a signal could damage any internals in some way? 

It's not even that useful I just kind of like having it display the temp even when it's off. Haha

Who knows if it's even something I'll use..


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## budbro18 (May 18, 2014)

Ive seen ones that do that but never saw a need for it in my design. I like to keep it simple. Thats why i went with the power inlet/switch/fuse combo. All in one no extra bullshit. haha It would help for initial start up and fuckin with it for people with the mypin controllers. They are set to a different thermocouple setting and have pre installed pid settings so it could possibly break your coil.

But for the auber its all good. Even though the standard temp is at like 500 it realizes the size of the heating element and adjusts accordingly.


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## michael potter (May 18, 2014)

its a lot to take in i started with the growing and my reguler life then the edibles then the bho for edibles then the growing tracking down every inexpensive other grower then the breeding then the vac oven shit and finding glass and nails and then oil rigs now im on this shit and i thank you for makeing it so much easier,,,,i have made custom fiberglass enclosures before but im also thinking of how a nice pice of billet would look for a case with a machined oil rig coaster as it were on top...maybe a multi holder for different size rig bases idk just brainstorming and looking for your final parts list


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## Fadedawg (May 19, 2014)

SP_IV said:


> Yeah the auto tune definitley seems to work just fine. I was just curious if anyone had already messed with theirs yet. I'm just gonna run it the way it is for now haha.
> 
> But I installed a switch in my box to turn the power on/off to the coil. So when the switch is in off position the thermocouple is still reading but the heating element is off.
> Which makes the pid think it needs to send a signal the entire time since it's sitting way below the set temp and won't heat.
> ...


Our Mypin autotune worked. 

Interrupting the signal to the SSR with a switch, doesn't hurt the controller. We didn't put one in our first complete build, but did on the second mockup. 

The only real advantage that I can see, is that it lets you read coil temperature during cool down. More advanced than a wet finger.


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## budbro18 (May 19, 2014)

Dont the coils cool down surprisingly fast though FD! Thats what i noticed at least. Especially if youre on a quartz enail domeless. 

As for the billet aluminum id love to make one out of all that but to keep mine inexpensive i decided to go without it. Maybe if i start ordering things in bigger bulk and getting discounts on them ill save enough to justify the cost but until then i wont be able to for my.


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## tommychong410 (May 19, 2014)

How long we looking at budbro? I'm trying to get a unit!


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## buckfiddy (May 19, 2014)

I finished mine last week here's a pic for you guys


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## SP_IV (May 19, 2014)

Fadedawg said:


> Our Mypin autotune worked.
> 
> Interrupting the signal to the SSR with a switch, doesn't hurt the controller. We didn't put one in our first complete build, but did on the second mockup.
> 
> The only real advantage that I can see, is that it lets you read coil temperature during cool down. More advanced than a wet finger.


Pretty much this. Haha

As I kind of thought there really isn't a need for the switch. But like you said you can see it cooling down which is kind of useful if you want to know when it's safe to remove your coil or nail.

Or I guess if you just wanted a thermometer for the room your in when your unit is off haha

I think I'm going to build another soon and I doubt i will wire in the extra switch this time.


----------



## watdaheo808 (May 24, 2014)

New DIY Analog guide for anyone that is interested - http://www.reddit.com/r/enail/comments/268n3d/diy_analog_enail_howto/. I made a few of these last week just to try it out. Works pretty good if you're on a budget.


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## LiquidJunglist (May 26, 2014)

Might make one of these for outdoor trips... Might make more since then a pid


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## dabKling (May 31, 2014)

budbro18 said:


> PID Controller: Auber 1/32 Universal Controller - $37.56
> 
> Solid State Relay: Auber 25A SSR - $15.00
> 
> ...


soooo.....I remember a few months ago when I initially researched this through the reddit post, and it seemed that it was impossible to find coils?

How is sourcing all these parts right now? Is this list still accurate and complete 11 pages and a couple months later? I would be happy to spend money with budbro, but he seems to be germinating success here. Also I have a set of ginger twin electricians who I plan to enslave..

Not only Budbro, but all of you who have followed and done your own, thank you so much, this is what community and making a living is all about!

Not to mention gettin blasted on dabs~~~


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## LiquidJunglist (Jun 4, 2014)

I'm guessing Humboldt E-Nail cracked the battery powered enail door wide opened. He posted some vids and a pic of the prototype. Hope he post some assembly pics. I'm curious about the amount and type of batteries powering the enail. It should be almost the same other then wiring the battery power up.


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## budbro18 (Jun 7, 2014)

LiquidJunglist said:


> I'm guessing Humboldt E-Nail cracked the battery powered enail door wide opened. He posted some vids and a pic of the prototype. Hope he post some assembly pics. I'm curious about the amount and type of batteries powering the enail. It should be almost the same other then wiring the battery power up.



Its no secret technology. Just have to wire the batteries the right way into the a dc enail. I could make one that you could plug into a car cigarette lighter pretty easily. Same with the batteries i just dont have the money to invest in the Lipos and time to test it out thoroughly. Ive seen some people make enails in small pelican cases. I though those were pretty cool. Might make one of those. Still wanna make a wood one one of these days for my own personal one.


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## LiquidJunglist (Jun 7, 2014)

Oh I know it's not secret tech I'm just saying now everyone is going to make one. ^_^ that's what I meant with wide open. Lol. But I am curious the type of battery he is using?


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## budbro18 (Jun 7, 2014)

Hell yeah ive seen a few people who already made them in the pelican cases too. Id assume Lipos in series but you could honestly even use those big 9 volt batteries in flashlight in series probably. As long as you have the current within the min and max that the PID/SSR calls for youre good just gotta work on total storage and what that equates to in time.

I personally probably wont be making a battery one because ive found some good pens that get me along just fine and smoke alot of blunts with oil in em. I just like makin shit haha. 

Honestly if you messaged auber and told them you wanted to make a "mobile soldering station" or "portable water heater" thats battery powered with one of their PIDs/SSRs they could probably give you instructions on how to do it.


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## LiquidJunglist (Jun 8, 2014)

Very smart about asking Mobile Soldering Station or Outdoor Water Heater idea. I just might do that the coil is 100w. That's per hour when that rate the watts of the coils right?


----------



## budbro18 (Jun 8, 2014)

LiquidJunglist said:


> Very smart about asking Mobile Soldering Station or Outdoor Water Heater idea. I just might do that the coil is 100w. That's per hour when that rate the watts of the coils right?



Im not sure i always thought that was the max it could handle id have to hook up a killawatt with it but i dont have one.


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## dabKling (Jun 8, 2014)

sooo...how about plugging into an ac converter in a cig lighter in the car? will the normal unit pull too much?


----------



## budbro18 (Jun 8, 2014)

dabKling said:


> sooo...how about plugging into an ac converter in a cig lighter in the car? will the normal unit pull too much?



Nope thatd work just fine i was just explaining how easy it could be to get it to run off a DC source.


----------



## tharealmclovin (Jun 10, 2014)

Hey bud bro...can you get nails still???? I am hoping to make one for my buddy but he wont spend the money for HE


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## budbro18 (Jun 10, 2014)

Yup they should be in within a few days!


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## tharealmclovin (Jun 10, 2014)

awesome. ill check back


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## dabKling (Jun 10, 2014)

quartz?


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## tharealmclovin (Jun 10, 2014)

^^^I just came back to ask the same question. I have found PB for $150 no carb cap...IMO an enail needs a Carb cap


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## budbro18 (Jun 10, 2014)

No luck on the quartz got a few people workin on that. But good US machined grade 2 titanium. Not sure exactly where he gets his Ti but i would assume from a reputable place he makes carb caps and other Ti nails for other small companies and none of them have had complaints to my knowledge.


----------



## dabKling (Jun 12, 2014)

I'm reading about these coils directly from china...they seem to be malleable? So u can bend them to fit different nails?


----------



## budbro18 (Jun 12, 2014)

dabKling said:


> I'm reading about these coils directly from china...they seem to be malleable? So u can bend them to fit different nails?


I wouldnt. from what ive heard thats what breaks coils. being malleable doesnt necessarily mean they should be bent once theyre formed into their shape. Ive seen people try to do that and the next day they complain about their coil not working. 

Itd be easier buying a nail made for coils or a coil made for certain nails. They have the post heating coils which i dont like that heat the middle threads of the nails and they have ones like the OG enail nail that fit perfectly around it. Very similar to the nails im having made.


----------



## dabKling (Jun 12, 2014)

yea it looks like u can get a custom coil even for around 30 bux, i may do that. i really like this new ceramic nail I got off the bay, but it needs a coil ID of 22mm.


----------



## budbro18 (Jun 12, 2014)

Probably want to make sure the nail is strong enough. With the long "rod" coming off the coil it puts quite a bit of tension on the head. Thats why even i am switching to Ti. Only thing i really trustto support the tension put on it. I love quartz but im not paying Joel Hallen aka scam artist to take 10 minutes out of his day to weld one tube to another tube for the ripe price of $200. And same with everyone else out there making quartz enail nails. FUCK YOU! peak n beagle makes em too and for the asshole tearing price of $220 on the d-nail site you could own a small piece of glass. 

You know its sad when REAL grade 2 titanium goes for less than quarts. I cant back a nail that costs almost as much as the enail im trying to offer to the community. let me know how it turns out and feel free to post some links. The guy i talk to in china said i could get custom ones made i just dont know ANY of the specs besides size. Nor sure the resistance or wattage i should choose. So ill just be stickin to the ones i bought but like i said feel free to throw some links and pictures and give us some feedback on the customer service.


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## budbro18 (Jun 12, 2014)

SSome companies have the "rod" bet at an angle to decrease the torque on the nail so you could possible have them do that for you.


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## giantfan119 (Jun 15, 2014)

someone should make a youtube video on how to make a enail.


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## budbro18 (Jun 15, 2014)

giantfan119 said:


> someone should make a youtube video on how to make a enail.



Workin on it. Probably wont get around to it til fall/winter busy summer season. Im trying to work on it but i really just need to sit down for a week and bust it out and with the weather bein this nice its hard to do that. Ive tried to make parts bit by bit but its all hard to put together. Just gotta do it all in one go. 

I will be workin on it though. Probably make some PDFs with wiring diagrams and shit on them.


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## tharealmclovin (Jun 17, 2014)

Someone on FB offered me a quartz enail nail for $75. if anyone is interested


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## jdee (Jun 18, 2014)

Here comes china, $100 for a complete digital unit with coil heater
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hot-Runner-Coil-Heater-And-Controller-Box/1896939600.html


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## watdaheo808 (Jun 18, 2014)

Any update on the nails?


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## UrbanEtiquette (Jun 27, 2014)

Does anyone know about how many AMPs the coil would be pulling with the PID/SRR at max draw (when turning it on, or the hugest of hits). The battery powered unit is quite easy to make if anyone knows the number, or toss the formula at me and Ill figure it out.


----------



## TrippyDab420 (Jun 29, 2014)

This isn't a DIY enail but check it out I just got the mini Humboldt Enail from the #Htcc


----------



## Steve4 (Jul 8, 2014)

https://www.oil-coil.com/mobile/60-Inch-Silicon-Coil-Assembly-58-ID_p_9.html
Does anyone know if I need to buy the mini TC connector or will I be good with out it and just be able to use the loose male XLR? Thanks in advance!


----------



## budbro18 (Jul 12, 2014)

Sorry guys been switchin ISPs so shits been wonky. Im workin on the quartz and ti enail nails still ive just been swamped with the outdoor season. 

I personally dont support humboldt enail because of his attitude. The guy goes around bitching at anyone who uses the auber 1/32 din or a small box. Like he invented the shit. Then he goes around and steals other peoples ideas like the flat coils and doesnt give anyone credit. I called him out on that and he blocked me like a bitch. Hes a bitch over charging just like everyone else making enails. Im glad china finally got involved because fuck all these people trying to rip people off. ESPECIALLY humboldt enail. Biggest bitch in the game. Dont doubt his enails nice but not any better than anyone else's. From what i can see he only autotunes his as well no actual PID settings put in. My shit reacts exactly the same as his and my coils probably even slightly different. 

Save your money and build your own. TOOOOO easy. Workin on the DIY video as we speak like i said very busy outdoor season probablly have the video done by fall ish.

Hope everyone is gettin the help they need.


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## watdaheo808 (Jul 15, 2014)

SUPER cheap quartz nails - http://www.ebay.com/sch/quartzsupplycompany/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=


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## LiquidJunglist (Jul 15, 2014)

Just ordered a HE Infiniti Nail. Step one complete hope it gets here soon!


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## budbro18 (Jul 19, 2014)

watdaheo808 said:


> SUPER cheap quartz nails - http://www.ebay.com/sch/quartzsupplycompany/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=



Those look pretty nice! Not as refined as the joel halens or pukn beagle but for 1/4 the price it looks nice enough for me! Im gonna have to buy one of those soon. Also smackdabessentials.com is going to be selling quartz nails for enails soon and theyve got some good products probably around the same price range 50-75 ish.


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## LiquidJunglist (Jul 19, 2014)

Ya I'm going to get my drop down from Smack Dab. Not sure if I want a male or female end for mine tho.


----------



## watdaheo808 (Jul 21, 2014)

LiquidJunglist said:


> Ya I'm going to get my drop down from Smack Dab. Not sure if I want a male or female end for mine tho.


You can get drop downs on ioffer for $20 vs $40-50 from other people.


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## watdaheo808 (Aug 19, 2014)

Quartz Nails - http://www.ebay.com/itm/271578048805?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649


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## sourorbetter (Sep 7, 2014)

@budbro18 Hey thanks for your DIY. I went and got the same parts just a different metal enclosure with more room. I have soldered everything together but I noticed that you did not put the connections for the switch in the power inlet/power switch combo. I've also blown two fuses already (10amp 250v) so I went ahead and got two more rated for 15 amps. I haven't used them yet since I want to figure out this connection issue first.


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## sfdabbin710 (Sep 15, 2014)

What fuse did you end up needing, like how many volts?


budbro18 said:


> That's the one I'm goin off its a little different because the controller I'm getting is a little different on the back.
> 
> the fuse is part of the switch/power inlet so you just have to wire it between the power and the switch. Not 100% sure 10 amps is enough but it should be.
> 
> ive been lookin at some flat coils people were messin with for better heat dispersion for the infinity type nails. Looks promising.


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## budbro18 (Sep 15, 2014)

sfdabbin710 said:


> What fuse did you end up needing, like how many volts?


At the radio shack i went to there was a 6 amp 120v fuse. I figured thatd be good because the coil is only like 150-200w which is like 2 amps so i figured something would have to be crazy to blow even a 6 amp. 

and sorry to anyone on instagram. my phone is messed up so i cant reply to comments and shit. once i fix it or get a new one ill be back on there.


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## budbro18 (Sep 15, 2014)

sourorbetter said:


> @budbro18 Hey thanks for your DIY. I went and got the same parts just a different metal enclosure with more room. I have soldered everything together but I noticed that you did not put the connections for the switch in the power inlet/power switch combo. I've also blown two fuses already (10amp 250v) so I went ahead and got two more rated for 15 amps. I haven't used them yet since I want to figure out this connection issue first.









heres the switch. the negative is connected to the brass pin on the switch and the positive comes in and straight through the fuse and out the red HOT connection that loops into the middle connection of the switch and comes out the top connection and into your coil/pid. same with the negative that comes off the inlet/switch. I wire nutted those to a single wire and wire nutted 2 other wires to that. one for the pid negative and one for the coil negative. ground only needed to be connected to the coil and if you want the SSR screw hole. 

hope this helped.


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## Dab Dillinger (Sep 28, 2014)

Yes humboldt is quick to take others ideas. I came out with color pid with my design with auber. Posted a pic of units with color had him ask where I got it said me and auber were building units for release. Auber than 4 weeks later pid were released in color. Then when I was going to sign auber up to assemble my units they said the were planing on coming out with unit also. People like that will never advance game due to lack of integrity and karma. Most likey reason humboldt a are catching fire.


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## Dab Dillinger (Sep 28, 2014)

Humboldt enails catching fire


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## budbro18 (Oct 15, 2014)

For real though ive been anti HUMBOLDT ENAILS since day 1. The guy/owner/creator is a punk bitch. Like you said DAB, always taking credit for others inventions. I called him out on the flat coils and it shut him up real quick because hes always postin peoples designs saying "this person ripped off my design" 

Literally the first time i researched PIDs and DIY enail i found aubers website, then found the little PIDs, the started researchin if anyone used them and if they were as sturdy.

Thats the problem with Humboldts enails too, he uses small SSRs that cant handle the constant load of the coils. Thats why they suggest a 25A SSR when the coils only pullin a couple of amps. Without the large SSR it would build up heat quickly, increasing resistance, which is probably what blew the guys power button. The SSR was just askin for too much power and the plug couldnt support that heat/resistance. Especially if left on for a while which many of them are. 

Last thing i saw the colored displays on the auber site the first time i researched. Well over a year ago maybe even more. I dont think its anything crazy because other companies make different colored ones so its one of those things where youre not really changing any of the mechanics just the appearance.


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## ewoksta (Oct 22, 2014)

Thanks for the information provided in this thread. I had originally ordered the MYPIN PID but upon discovering this thread...am going to return my MYPIN and have already ordered the Auber PID & SSR. Might as well invest in better components. Is wiring the same when it comes to the MYPIN and Auber?


----------



## budbro18 (Oct 22, 2014)

ewoksta said:


> Thanks for the information provided in this thread. I had originally ordered the MYPIN PID but upon discovering this thread...am going to return my MYPIN and have already ordered the Auber PID & SSR. Might as well invest in better components. Is wiring the same when it comes to the MYPIN and Auber?



the numbers on the mypin are probably different, but on the auber it has each one marked what they are and will match with the wiring diagram i made.


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## Dab Dillinger (Oct 22, 2014)

I got any parts you need!


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## budbro18 (Oct 22, 2014)

Dab Dillinger said:


> I got any parts you need!



What do your coils go for? flat, round 16mm and round 20mm??


----------



## Moss logs (Oct 24, 2014)

i ordered a gimido enail and my temperatures keep fluctuating and i cant access my p.i.d settings. i have a xmt612 has anybody had the same issues


----------



## dabsondeck (Oct 27, 2014)

jdee said:


> I agree that 300f is way too low..Using a k type thermocouple wire sensor to calibrate the temps of the dish to optimum vaping temps I found that what should have been a good temp 580 on PID / ~385f on dish, was too low a temp for the dish. It would leave unvaped residue unlike the higher temps, required longer pulls and more of them to vape a dab. It vapes so slow that while it does taste good the vapor to air ratio caused by the slow vape dilutes it too much. at 680 my dish is 485 and vapes a dab in a reasonable amount of pulls without tasting burned and without being diluted by too much air due to vaping too slow. Also no visible 'wet' residue left behind. Also not that anyone asked but I leave my dab station running 24/7 and have had zero issues. The unit never heats up (except for the coil) and having plugged it into power meter, it uses a steady 30watts @ 0.5amps. With a rate of 8.85 cents/kWh this costs $1.90/month to run. I believe it's much cheaper than refillable torches.


Are you using a 100w coil for that pricing on energy


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## Dab Dillinger (Oct 27, 2014)

budbro18 said:


> What do your coils go for? flat, round 16mm and round 20mm??


$40/$45 with xlr 5pin


----------



## dabsondeck (Oct 27, 2014)

budbro18 said:


> Looks good thanks for the PID settings. Do you know how much it changes due to different coil size?? Im assuming the coils are nearly identical just never know what a half turn extra or less of coil can do. Also how fragile are the coils? So if you type in the wrong settings will if fuck them up hard??
> 
> Also like the piece too. Looks perfect for a daily driver.
> 
> ...





UrbanEtiquette said:


> Does anyone know about how many AMPs the coil would be pulling with the PID/SRR at max draw (when turning it on, or the hugest of hits). The battery powered unit is quite easy to make if anyone knows the number, or toss the formula at me and Ill figure it out.


I think With a 100w coil it will pull less then an amp your coil is what is pulling the amprige...your pid and ssr shouldnt add any amprige and to figure it out you divide watts by volts So 100w ÷120v =0.8333 amps


----------



## dabsondeck (Oct 27, 2014)

Have any of you heard anything on omron pid,s quality ...how well they work etc.?


----------



## torturekiller420 (Nov 16, 2014)

I have an Omron PID on my HashCastle and Love It!!! I also have an auber which im selling for another hashcastle that's how much I like it.


----------



## torturekiller420 (Nov 22, 2014)

Well, I had this weekend off and I decided I was going to intellectually teach myself how to build an enail and get the knowledge down before I ordered my parts. I spent last night reading this entire thread, along with a couple on some other groups. This morning I read the one on reddit and then began looking for parts. I feel as If I have a good base knowledge to work off of now and an understanding of how everything works. 

Auber seems to have great PID controllers as well as SSR's, being that's what everyone has recommended and I see on retailed units. Ive decided to use this PID along with this SSr, both from auber. I chose the Dual Temp screen just because that's my personal preference. 
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=3
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=9

Im going to go ahead and use XLR male/female DIN connector for my coil and order another auber coil. 

Heres my question and I hope this dosent seem kind of shady, I had a problem with my Auber 2nd Gen enail unit and had to get into contact with Auber, they gave me an access code along with a print of their PID parameters that they use in the units they sell so I could adjust some of them. Turns out the coil was bad was all, their PID settings are excellent IMO. Now I don't know if these settings are somewhat secretive or at least something they don't want shared, so im not going to post or share them, But could I use them to program the PID I order from them and achieve the same results? 

One more thing. I had my coil shit out on my Auber unit almost immediately and was very disappointed. After working with Suyi via email with my problem, im very impressed with the company and their customer service, as well as my unit now that I have a proper functioning coil(PID settings back to stock). Which is one of the reasons I want to build a couple personal units using Auber parts.

Im looking to hearing your feedback BudBro and all other DIYers. Im excited for these builds, I wont be orderings parts for a couple weeks thoe.


----------



## torturekiller420 (Nov 22, 2014)

http://www.ebay.com.my/itm/Neutrik-NC5FD-L-BAG-1-5-Pole-Female-XLR-Chassis-Pnl-Mount-Black-Silver-Contacts-/231261553118?

I think I had my terminology wrong on what type of coil outlet I will be using, it will be something similar to this.


----------



## budbro18 (Nov 22, 2014)

I havent used any pid setting other than auto tunes and it keeps my nail perfect. The only thing that drops the temp is the carb cap. Straight nail set to 700 (reads at about 585-610 on my IR thermometer) drops to about 675-685 depending on how long the carb cap is held on. When we bump it up to 825 (about 700 on IR) we can finish dabs without the carb cap and it drops about 10 degrees and recovers in seconds. Thats also with quartz not TI so its expected to lose heat faster. When we dab at 700 on the pid and dont carb cap it drop about 5-10 but you leave a good amount behind without the carb cap just because of how our pieces hit. 

The pid/ssr will work fine from what i can tell. If i were you id get a 20MM coil instead of the 16MM. Because when getting nails for it the 20mm will give you nails with bigger dabbing area and the 16mms make it kinda rough being so small. 

Other than that the xlr connections should also work. Let me know if you need the quartz nails for the enails because im currently working with someone to make them for the 16mm and 20mm coils and therye working out really well for a good price. 

Good luck in your build. Its really easy just like puttin together a puzzle or train track.


----------



## Dab Dillinger (Nov 23, 2014)

torturekiller420 said:


> Well, I had this weekend off and I decided I was going to intellectually teach myself how to build an enail and get the knowledge down before I ordered my parts. I spent last night reading this entire thread, along with a couple on some other groups. This morning I read the one on reddit and then began looking for parts. I feel as If I have a good base knowledge to work off of now and an understanding of how everything works.
> 
> Auber seems to have great PID controllers as well as SSR's, being that's what everyone has recommended and I see on retailed units. Ive decided to use this PID along with this SSr, both from auber. I chose the Dual Temp screen just because that's my personal preference.
> http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=3
> ...


I have ssr and other parts just email me at [email protected]


----------



## zzoo (Nov 25, 2014)

Does anyone have 16mm 100w 5pin xlr coils for sale?


----------



## budbro18 (Nov 26, 2014)

zzoo said:


> Does anyone have 16mm 100w 5pin xlr coils for sale?


i dont but someone on this thread does. And IMO go with 20mm unless you already have/plan to put it on the highly educated enail adapter. 

Were gonna have a lot of quartz nails for reasonable prices soon and the 16mm nails are just so small and the 20mm cost the same. just my 2 cents.


----------



## Dab Dillinger (Nov 26, 2014)

zzoo said:


> Does anyone have 16mm 100w 5pin xlr coils for sale?




Yes email at [email protected]


----------



## torturekiller420 (Nov 26, 2014)

BudBro, How much for the quartz nails? Im looking to put together 5 complete set-ups with nails and coils. if I could get 5 coils(wired or unwired with plugs) and nails at a decent wholesale price, id like to talk. Also. I see some people recommend and use 5-8A SSR's. What is the overall opinion on this? 5A or 25A SSR? I've learned ALOT over the last few days and have also had a chance get into my PID settings on my auber unit and play with those . I feel confident I can put together a safe functioning and proper functioning unit to give to friends. tis the season and all 

Thanks in advance!


----------



## budbro18 (Nov 27, 2014)

torturekiller420 said:


> BudBro, How much for the quartz nails? Im looking to put together 5 complete set-ups with nails and coils. if I could get 5 coils(wired or unwired with plugs) and nails at a decent wholesale price, id like to talk. Also. I see some people recommend and use 5-8A SSR's. What is the overall opinion on this? 5A or 25A SSR? I've learned ALOT over the last few days and have also had a chance get into my PID settings on my auber unit and play with those . I feel confident I can put together a safe functioning and proper functioning unit to give to friends. tis the season and all
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Were still workin the last few kinks out but i will have a price soon! Probably by early december. 

As for SSRs ive never really messed with the smaller amp/size ones. If youre worried about size i wouldnt because the 25A ones are pretty small. Just from reading about SSRs i see one of the main problems in thermal management.

A 25A SSR is only supposed to be ran at 15-25 amps when it has a heat sink attached. So if youre using a 5-8 amp SSR drawing no more than 2 amps you can be good. I just like the extra room. Im using under 10% of the SSRs limit so heat will never be an issue. Not to say it will be for the 5-8 amp SSRs because i dont have enough experience to claim that. But it could be considering that 2 amps is now 1/4-1/2 the total amp limit and many recommend heat sinking over 50-75%. 

So like i said you can use them. Many companies do. But i havent seen as many problems with enail SSRs until people started straying from the 25a ones to try to make them smaller. Id go with a good quality SSR no matter what you buy. Thatll probably make the biggest difference of whether it eventually fails. Good quality control and a company that has an ok warranty. Either way theyre cheap and replaceable. 

Your PID should hopefully never fail unless theres some kind of short. SSRs are pretty tough but have a limited life "expectancy" of how many on/offs they can perform before the companies testing showed X% failed. Each companies level of failure % determines what theyre rated for so thats why a good company always helps. Coils are solid as long as you dont fuck with them. People never really have problems until they get a nail that doesnt fit perfect or try to fit it around a nail that isnt made for them. Other than that theres really nothing electronic that can break. I mean yes the cord can fry, the switch/fuse can fuck up, the box can crack. But honestly all that total is like 20 bucks. Maybe. 

Thats the best part about DIY is once you get the wires figured out and in place even if a part broked every 6 months to a year youd average like $30 a year in money spent on heating nails. VS a lot more even for the most mild smoker.

My friend had one of those blue tank torches and wed go though a tank every month or so and thats when we were barely dabbin compared to now. So thats only $5 per tank so thats nothing crazy but convenience is a lot.

Now if you use butane and a hand torch VS the big tank torch we used youre spending at least $3-$5 per can plus the $25-$75 for the torch. Then going through a whole can within a week or so. That shit gets expensive real quick. 

The convenience is really where the money starts to make sense too. When i dab its usually me and at least 1 other person, more commonly several. Were used to passing blunts, instant gratification, so heating nails and all that shit. AINT NO BODY GOT TIME FOR THAT!


----------



## torturekiller420 (Nov 27, 2014)

Awesome BudBro! Thanks a ton! I will be using Auber's 25a SSR. They seem to really have great products and their customer service is right up there as well.


----------



## budbro18 (Nov 27, 2014)

torturekiller420 said:


> Awesome BudBro! Thanks a ton! I will be using Auber's 25a SSR. They seem to really have great products and their customer service is right up there as well.


Yup thats what i used. If youre just making your own no reason not to go with the 25a. If youre making them for sale and want to make them small and cheap for people to buy use the other ones. Either way youll be good!


----------



## PorterRockwell (Nov 30, 2014)

Did you know if you (for temp control) wire a standard dimmer switch from your electronics store to a soldering iron and weld that to a little sheeth to fit around your TI-nail you get a ghetto enail!


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## WarMachine (Nov 30, 2014)

I made my own ghetto e-nail using a laptop charger and nichrome wire . Works well but obviously not like what you guys all working with!


----------



## budbro18 (Nov 30, 2014)

WarMachine said:


> I made my own ghetto e-nail using a laptop charger and nichrome wire . Works well but obviously not like what you guys all working with!


hahaha damn!!! Check out domeless.com 

http://www.domeless.com/products/product-details/#cid=621466

$75 is so cheap for an enail!!!


----------



## WarMachine (Dec 1, 2014)

budbro18 said:


> hahaha damn!!! Check out domeless.com
> 
> http://www.domeless.com/products/product-details/#cid=621466
> 
> $75 is so cheap for an enail!!!


The problem with all the cheaper ones that are $100-$150 they are one setting heat and tend to be on the lower end of the scale. The one you listed goes to 6xx mine is adjustable lol. I was going to get that one you listed until the temp was to low, $75 is a steal. Mine was only $15 

I'm not saying mines the best or anything, just saying it works lol.


----------



## WarMachine (Dec 1, 2014)

I would love to know how the one that domeless listed was made. It seems so simple and obviously low priced so must be low cost to build. Maybe I would be able to kick it up in heat.


----------



## PorterRockwell (Dec 1, 2014)

WarMachine said:


> I made my own ghetto e-nail using a laptop charger and nichrome wire . Works well but obviously not like what you guys all working with!


PIMP I want one


----------



## Fadedawg (Dec 1, 2014)

WarMachine said:


> I made my own ghetto e-nail using a laptop charger and nichrome wire . Works well but obviously not like what you guys all working with!


Hee, hee, hee............Old engineering proverb WM. If it works, it isn't stupid.

We whomped up this out of thangs lying around, except for the Oil coil, just to try it out, and always planned to eventually design and build something more main stream, but we stay pretty busy and never got any further than figuring out how to easily use it in a circle. Now that we figured out that secret, we will just make ourselves a purdier stand, so we can give Pete his pin vice back.

The nail is an original KO domeless nail, which was donated for testing a couple three years ago, sitting on an original Skunk Pharm dab pipe. Our newer V-2 KO domeless nail is too large for the coil and has a belled entrance.

We just set the coil over the nail and leave it there until we are ready to use it, and then lift the coil off and pass the pipe with no cord attached. When it returns, we set the coil over it again, which rapidly brings it back up to temperature.

Controls are a Mypin PID and a Fotek SSR, in a scrounged box.

Lazy, yes, stupid, not thinking so.

We like it better than one on a cord.


----------



## torturekiller420 (Dec 1, 2014)

You guys can make analog enails fairly simply. Power cord, Light dimmer, and a coil plug. Im pretty sure there is a Tutorial around here or reddit, its simple....really simple.


----------



## WarMachine (Dec 1, 2014)

PorterRockwell said:


> PIMP I want one


http://www.reddit.com/r/StonerEngineering/comments/29hvq5/as_promised_30_diy_enail_build_instructions_v1/

That's the guide I used to make it! Pretty straight forward!


----------



## WarMachine (Dec 1, 2014)

http://www.reddit.com/r/enail/comments/268n3d/diy_analog_enail_howto/

Very tempting to do lol. Perhaps I will make one or a few..


----------



## Fadedawg (Dec 2, 2014)

Hee, hee, hee, I love to watch fertile minds at work and love simple!

Probably should include a shield for the exposed 120V wires, or a ground fault interrupter, to limit the jolt.


----------



## budbro18 (Dec 2, 2014)

WarMachine said:


> http://www.reddit.com/r/enail/comments/268n3d/diy_analog_enail_howto/
> 
> Very tempting to do lol. Perhaps I will make one or a few..



I was just about to post this one! 

If not domeless has another called the dab pad JR. that can be cranked up pretty high i think its only like $150 ish. But hell for that you might as well build your own. cheap pid/ssr, 14 awg wire, box, coil, done. $100 bucks or less if you look for the deals.


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## torturekiller420 (Dec 2, 2014)

14awg wire? I thought 16awg was to thick so people were using 18awg? Im going to order a wire spool kit(desired wire size in different colored spools). I would hate to order the wrong stuff.


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## WarMachine (Dec 3, 2014)

Are you guys paying $60-$80 for the coil as well?


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## Fadedawg (Dec 3, 2014)

As I recall, my Oil coil, cost around that price. The PID was $16 and the SSR less than $10. We scrounged the can and wiring.


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## jbigdawg79 (Dec 3, 2014)

Ok guys a have a xmt-7100 controller I have everything wired and connected. I have power to the unit my coil is not heating up. Is there setting on the temp controller that you have to set up before your cool heats up? If so how do I set up the settings?


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## jbigdawg79 (Dec 3, 2014)

Hellllp Lolololol God it sucks having everything here to use it and don't know how to set up the pid lol sucksssss


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## Fadedawg (Dec 4, 2014)

jbigdawg79 said:


> Ok guys a have a xmt-7100 controller I have everything wired and connected. I have power to the unit my coil is not heating up. Is there setting on the temp controller that you have to set up before your cool heats up? If so how do I set up the settings?


Not familiar with that PID controller, but you sound lonely and in need of a dab from your nail.

Did the PID controller come with an instruction sheet written by someone whose native language is English?

You will need to set the temperature that you want it to heat the coil to. Have you done that?

If you have, is the red led on the face indicating that the controller is calling for heat lit? The destruction sheet should tell you which light it is.


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## jbigdawg79 (Dec 4, 2014)

Fadedawg said:


> Not familiar with that PID controller, but you sound lonely and in need of a dab from your nail.
> 
> Did the PID controller come with an instruction sheet written by someone whose native language is English?
> 
> ...


http://www.berriman.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/xmt7100.pdf


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## torturekiller420 (Dec 4, 2014)

Isn't the xmt7100 the same as Aubers 1/32?


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## jbigdawg79 (Dec 4, 2014)

torturekiller420 said:


> Isn't the xmt7100 the same as Aubers 1/32?


Yes it is


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## jbigdawg79 (Dec 4, 2014)

Cmon my fellow smokers the more I play with it the more I feel like I'm messing it up more. Lol just wanna take a dab again without lighting my dam torch!!! Lol


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## torturekiller420 (Dec 4, 2014)

do you have it set on auto tune? also I think I read once that with those you have to enter 0001, then your desired temp. There are a couple facebook groups that you could post this in and more than likely get 50 responses in the first couple hours of how to go about programming this and be using it tonite, also you could always go onto aubers website and find their programming sheet


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## torturekiller420 (Dec 4, 2014)

Have you googled, "troubleshooting xmt7100 PID" or possibly "programming auber 1/32 PID"


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## jbigdawg79 (Dec 4, 2014)

Yes I have but all that comes up is instruction manuals witch say nothing about setting it up for a coil.


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## jbigdawg79 (Dec 4, 2014)

torturekiller420 said:


> do you have it set on auto tune? also I think I read once that with those you have to enter 0001, then your desired temp. There are a couple facebook groups that you could post this in and more than likely get 50 responses in the first couple hours of how to go about programming this and be using it tonite, also you could always go onto aubers website and find their programming sheet


What groups would those be ?


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## torturekiller420 (Dec 4, 2014)

Try-E-Nail Only and Enail Crew


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## budbro18 (Dec 4, 2014)

Hey i didnt know that was the same controller! haha. Basically hold the arrow pointing to the right down for 5 seconds and you should hear a click. Then the coil should run auto tune. 

It sounds like you have your SSR hooked up wrong. Double check all your wires. If not you might have a dud coil. If its turning on it automatically starts to heat up to like 700 degrees and will over shoot a lot the first time. So its best to not have your coil hooked up so it can heat to a lower temp to make sure nothing breaks from over heating if it shoots far past 700 on the first rev up. 

I set mine to 350 and then ran autotune and it was all over the place and finally came back. Then when i stepped it up to 700 it wasnt as out of control and i was able to run autotune with it only having to overshoot by 75 degrees.

Id check all the connections it might even be the ones running from the pid to the ssr to control it. very common. 

Also to change the temp you should just be able to hit the up/down arrows and itll be blinking as you adjust. Then when you stop itll blink for what will seem like forever but is about 5-7 seconds and itll click i think and then start raising in temp and itll go from the blinking temp you set it to to the current temp it is and it should increase. 

Hope this helped!


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## torturekiller420 (Dec 21, 2014)

Well, all my parts have been ordered. Ill touch back when things start arriving and i start putting things together.


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## warble (Dec 21, 2014)

I saw this on amazon frequently sold together








http://www.amazon.com/Elitech-All-Purpose-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat/dp/B008KVCPH2/ref=pd_bxgy_misc_img_y

http://www.amazon.com/Volume-Heater-Coffee-Heating-Cooking/dp/B00FO8FY68/ref=pd_sbs_hi_10?ie=UTF8&refRID=1RSQM3HEDT6YCTKJFZQ8

Since they are frequently sold together, is it because it could work as an enail? Has anyone tried it? It says its 1350watts 2" X 2.25" Is there a nail that would work with these?


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## torturekiller420 (Dec 22, 2014)

These instruments have a much broader use than that of enails. Think industrial and lab related tools. Id be surprised if these companies have even noticed the enail industry popping up, in terms of sales, ect.


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## warble (Dec 22, 2014)

torturekiller420 said:


> These instruments have a much broader use than that of enails. Think industrial and lab related tools. Id be surprised if these companies have even noticed the enail industry popping up, in terms of sales, ect.



Do you think it could be made into an enail? Probably wouldn't heat up quickly.


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## torturekiller420 (Dec 22, 2014)

No


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## torturekiller420 (Dec 24, 2014)

Still waiting on my other SSR, coil, and heat gun which should all be here friday. I also need to make a trip to the hardware store to get some wire, solder, connectors, ect. I think ill take the case to work and mill it being i dont have a dremel. Ive got the case laid out the way i think i would like it. I think ill start building next week unless i can find a dremel to borrow between now and then and i get the remainer of my supplies. Im beyond excited about this build. I really hope it works out well because i have a TON of ideas. I'm going to have a dozen of these damn things by this time next year lol.


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## torturekiller420 (Dec 24, 2014)

Also, I have a fotek 25a SSR on the way, pictured is an auber 5a SSR. Im going to use the 25a for this build, but do you think the 5a will be alright for another smaller build i have in mind? Has any used or heard of anyone using the auber 5a? Thoughts? Opinions? 

Thanks!


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## budbro18 (Dec 24, 2014)

I think a lot of people use smaller SSRs than the 25a ones and most of them work and should be fine since youre only using a 200-250w coil which is just over 2 amps. The amount of cycles its rated for is probably more important and whether or not it gets hot or has heat sinking so it doesnt get worn out from being on so often. Auber has pretty good stuff so i dont doubt itll work.


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## torturekiller420 (Dec 24, 2014)

Awesome Budbro, Thanks! Im not sure what my coil is rated, i got one from d-nail. My PID didnt come with any sort of instructions(go figure) for programming. Budbro, do you have a manual i could get a copy of do you know of a link? Ill touch back when things begin to progress some more.


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## budbro18 (Dec 25, 2014)

torturekiller420 said:


> Awesome Budbro, Thanks! Im not sure what my coil is rated, i got one from d-nail. My PID didnt come with any sort of instructions(go figure) for programming. Budbro, do you have a manual i could get a copy of do you know of a link? Ill touch back when things begin to progress some more.


http://auberins.com/images/Manual/SYL-1512A2instruction 1.0.pdf

Pretty sure thats the right one. 

Also id put the plug on the back side of the box instead of the front if what im thinking it looks like is. Just for convenience and stability. 

As for programming you really shouldnt have to do much. When you first get it and start fitting everything make sure you connect the hot to the coil last. Just because a lot of times theyre set to 700-800 and i just dont like puttin coils up to that on their first heat. So i turn it down to about 3 and let it sit for a while. Especially because no autotune has been run yet so it will waaaaay over shoot 700 and probably hit in the 900s. Not sure the real temp but mines usually only off by a little. 

You dont have to though. Mine made it through it it just scared me because of how bright the coil got. But if you set it to like 350 let it get there and stabilize. Then set it to autotune by pressing the right pointing arrow down for like 5 seconds or so. Youll first hear a click then a few seconds after the pid output light will blink at the same speed consistently. If you let the pid settle out at 350 it should blink very slowly as long as you dont do it in a very cold place. Then once you kick on autotune youll notice that it blinks at the same pace even while cooling down when it usually slows to a blink or 2 every 5 seconds. Itll run and run and run for probably around 5 minutes. Try not to walk by it or cause any drafts to cool it faster. Not a big deal just for accuracy. After that youll hear a click and itll go back to normal uneven intervals of blinking and the Ai light should be lit and you might hear a click you heard in the beginning when the Ai button turns on. 

After that crank it up to 700 just by hitting the up arrow. You can change the heat without going into any setting or unlocking it. Just hit up or down and when you get it to your temp just stop and itll sit there and blink for 5 seconds and possibly hear another one of those clicks and itll stop blinking and show the set temp then in another second or 2 itll bounce back to the current temp that should be rising. 

When it stabilizes at 700 (should over shoot to about 800 ish) you can run autotune again. Itll probably get up to 850-900 but it shouldnt get super red and itll be more gradual than going from room temp to 900 in a very short period of time. Itll bounce around and do the same thing as last time. 

After that you can adjust to your desired temp. I use quartz so mine probably has to be set hotter than if it was a titanium nail because of how the quartz throws heat out and titanium holds it. Also depends on the style of nail you get. Make sure to get one with the adapter to hold the coil and direct heat towards the dish. They have em in titanium and quartz. Unless youre getting a flat heater coil. Forget which one you decided on. 

The club bangers also work. Most of them are for the 20mm but they make em now for the 16mm.

Carb caps are pretty crucial so if you cant find one for cheap you can get used lab glass. Small 25ml flasks and like 10ml beakers and they work really well. I have a 25ml flask that fits my 16mm nail perfect for a carb cap. The 5ml and 10ml beakers have an OD of 23mm so the ID of that flared part would probably be damn near 20mm plus the little spout would work as the actual "carb" because on the flask that i have it doesnt have a way to get air in really well besides the slight difference in size around it but thats how i like it. But i have some lungs so i can take long slow chugs. I found some 25ml filter flasks (used for buchner funnel) that would probably work awesome!


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## budbro18 (Dec 25, 2014)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-PYREX-25-ML-Flask-Beaker-2-No-4980-1-No-5020-/271714999119?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f4379db4f

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Glass-Beaker-Lab-Beaker-Low-Form-10ml-Lot5-Free-shipping/231261127457?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIC.MBE&ao=1&asc=20131003132420&meid=c4b4e6d869b6450b97fcd72b7d50ae9d&pid=100005&prg=20131003132420&rk=4&rkt=6&sd=370236963710&rt=nc

Its hard to find single ones and with free shipping but hell most carb caps cost $15-$25 minimum anyway so if you get 2 or 3 for less than 10 youre still savin money and you can afford to break a few.


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## torturekiller420 (Dec 25, 2014)

Thanks a ton BudBro!!! I have Ti, quite a bit actually, mostly HE. As for my box, the power cord will go in the back., in the front will be (left to right) Coil plug, Power switch, PID.


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## budbro18 (Dec 25, 2014)

Nice! Forgot about the on/off switch. You should be able to convert one to accommodate your coil. I know for the infinitis they have ad adapter piece of you can use them the old fashion way.


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## torturekiller420 (Dec 25, 2014)

My next build will have a separate switch for the coil. When you say "convert" a power switch to work. What all does that entail?


----------



## budbro18 (Dec 26, 2014)

torturekiller420 said:


> My next build will have a separate switch for the coil. When you say "convert" a power switch to work. What all does that entail?


I meant convert one of your nails to work with your coil. hahaha. Sorry for the confusion.

But yeah if you have the infiniti style you should get a flat coil because then you wont have to buy anything where as the 16/20mm round coils only really fit certain ones. 


You should throw up a picture of all the nails you have if you want me to help figure out if any will work for sure. If you have a few odds are one will work haha.


----------



## torturekiller420 (Dec 26, 2014)

Ive got my coil and Ti figured out actually. I'm a huge glass collector and work with glass myself, that much i do have figured out atleast lol. I have an OG nail on my hascastle enail, and an OG Highly Educated on my auber 2nd gen unit. For this unit thoe i went with a 20mm coil and will be getting either Joel Halen or PukinBeagle quartz for this set-up. I just cant decide what kind of rig to purchase to put this on. Iv really wanted a slime Toro FrothxFroth, butttt my cat broke my Steve Sizelove and after talking to him, i might get a custom rig to go with this enail also.


----------



## torturekiller420 (Dec 26, 2014)

Unless of course, you got some Quartz in 20mm?


----------



## losinc (Dec 26, 2014)

Howdy Folks,

I'm trying to tune my Auber 1512a

Current Parameters
0001 Menu

AH1- 800

AL1 - 900

AH2 - 300

AL2 - 300

Menu 0036

P - 10.4

I - 0030

D - 007

Souf - 0.2

oT - 002

Filt - 00

Menu 0089

int = Y

outy - 2 

atdu - 010

psb - 0 

rd - 0


Everything seems fine. Gets up to temp in 2mins or so.
I just notice it over shoots and eventually settles.
Please let me know if my numbers are to aggressive. 

Thanks


----------



## torturekiller420 (Dec 28, 2014)

Well hopefully all is wired up correctly. Im going to start programming and testing here soon i hope.


----------



## torturekiller420 (Dec 28, 2014)

Well, i am happily enjoying it, All went faily well and i have a ton of ideas brewing in my head for the nedy


----------



## torturekiller420 (Dec 28, 2014)

Im still waiting on my 20mm Dnail coil and some quartz, but it performs great, i feel pretty damn good right.


----------



## WarMachine (Dec 28, 2014)

Just finished the analog e-nail, thanks budbro for the help! Now just waiting for the coil/nail!


----------



## torturekiller420 (Dec 29, 2014)

Well. still no issues(knocks on wood). I have put both my other units away and have been using strictly this one. Im going to have some company over tonight to help me put her through the test. When i get some time and am feeling patient, im going to go through and program all those settings posted on here. At the moment however, Auto-tune will work just fine. Im amazed with myself to be quite honest, this product looks and functions great. And i made it! I have a ton of ideas for next one. I cant wait!


----------



## budbro18 (Dec 29, 2014)

torturekiller420 said:


> Well. still no issues(knocks on wood). I have put both my other units away and have been using strictly this one. Im going to have some company over tonight to help me put her through the test. When i get some time and am feeling patient, im going to go through and program all those settings posted on here. At the moment however, Auto-tune will work just fine. Im amazed with myself to be quite honest, this product looks and functions great. And i made it! I have a ton of ideas for next one. I cant wait!
> View attachment 3321602



After all my experimentation ive noticed that the coils are all slightly different and not all settings will work with all coils. Auto tune seems to be the best because it constantly monitors the set temp and actual temp and changing conditions. Its nice because some times were in really cold basements and other times were in warm ass houses and i feel like with the autotune it helps it not be under/over powered due to the ambient temp pulling heat from it or allowing heat to build up faster than it is programmed to run. 

It probably also helps your SSR last longer. Dont hold me to this but i wouldnt doubt that it more accurately adjusts the on/off cycle and could lead to longer SSR life due to possibly balancing the on/off cycle better and not going to fast on and off and performing a ton of cycles or going to slow and having to do hard pushing cycles.

Just my 2 cents and for anyone using auber/auber style pids should run in autotune.


----------



## budbro18 (Dec 29, 2014)

torturekiller420 said:


> Well. still no issues(knocks on wood). I have put both my other units away and have been using strictly this one. Im going to have some company over tonight to help me put her through the test. When i get some time and am feeling patient, im going to go through and program all those settings posted on here. At the moment however, Auto-tune will work just fine. Im amazed with myself to be quite honest, this product looks and functions great. And i made it! I have a ton of ideas for next one. I cant wait!
> View attachment 3321602



Im also about to start messin with different boxes and shit. Im gonna mount this one in a case i found at harbor freight for like 10 bucks. Should be able to fit my piece and the enail in there no problem for a nice little enail on the go. Also, gonna be gettin a generic pelican case to do it to as well for the more rugged adventures. 

Been wantin to mess with making a DC/battery powered one but i dont have the money for all the lipos and end up messin one or 2 of them up anyway. But some day ill start one of those threads for an all in one pelican battery enail with solar panel on the top of the pelican and room to store your piece, dabber, concentrates, etc...


----------



## torturekiller420 (Dec 29, 2014)

Thats EXACTLY what i need for camping. If you come up with something and need a tester, let me know. Id even be happy to cover the cost of materiasl for one to test. Ive got a peli enail in mind myself, but just one to hold my rig and such, nothing special, just not $1000 from d-nail. I would also like to build a double enail. (2coils, 2 PID's, 4 switches, 1 power cord) Im going to need to do some research with that one. I wish i had 5 of everything right now, i could be a happy builder for a couple weekends!


----------



## losinc (Jan 3, 2015)

Hey folks, 

I built a durable little mini enail. 
Let me know what you guys think.


----------



## Fadedawg (Jan 3, 2015)

Cute!

What are you using for a heat sink under the SSR?


----------



## losinc (Jan 3, 2015)

It's just a stock Fotek 25a SSR.


----------



## SnapsProvolone (Jan 3, 2015)

losinc said:


> It's just a stock Fotek 25a SSR.


Basically what FD is hinting at would be the apparent lack of a heatsink to dissipate heat from the SSR.


----------



## losinc (Jan 3, 2015)

SnapsProvolone said:


> Basically what FD is hinting at would be the apparent lack of a heatsink to dissipate heat from the SSR.



The pid makes more heat than the ssr. The ssr is running at like 10% of what it is rated for.


----------



## budbro18 (Jan 3, 2015)

Yeah the SSR creates little heat. Thats why i always recommended using the 25a vs smaller 6-8a ones. 

All i did was raise mine up with small bolts in each of the holes and used epoxy to connect those to the housing giving it about 1/4-3/8" of breathing space. Never really gets warm even after hours and hours of running. The thickness of my project boxes wall is much thinner so that may help as well. 

All in all though it really barely gets even warm. Ive taken it off and felt inside the box too


----------



## Fadedawg (Jan 4, 2015)

losinc said:


> The pid makes more heat than the ssr. The ssr is running at like 10% of what it is rated for.


Ostensibly what it is rated for with a heat sink. 

I would recommend at least a block of aluminum under it. We've taken out 40 amp SSRs at small fractions of their ratings, but inadequate heat dissipation. They all worked, just didn't last as long.


----------



## budbro18 (Jan 4, 2015)

Fadedawg said:


> Ostensibly what it is rated for with a heat sink.
> 
> I would recommend at least a block of aluminum under it. We've taken out 40 amp SSRs at small fractions of their ratings, but inadequate heat dissipation. They all worked, just didn't last as long.


Yeah SSRs are some tricky lil guys. One can last damn near forever in some shitty conditions and others fail in prime conditions. 

One reason it was probably never mentioned was because the first DIY enails were made using all metal housings so they had built in heat sinking if you will. 

I remember reading somewhere that a typical SSR can handle about 6 amps or so without any need of heatsinking. And up to like 10 by just having the bottom plate exposed. Not sure where i heard that. possibly the auber website.

But either way it wouldnt hurt to heat sink. Just for my set up i couldnt fit the traditional SSR heatsink in my box so i was fiddling around with some scrap stainless to make a little "bench" if you will to raise it off the bottom. But i just ended up going with the bolt heads through the screw holes in the SSR which raised it about 1/4"-3/8" off the bottom. Never really hits even 100 according to my IR thermometer.


----------



## SnapsProvolone (Jan 4, 2015)

Let us know how long it lasts. Note that a plastic enclosure with no vents could get pretty warm inside.

I suppose if you don't have it running for extended periods......


----------



## losinc (Jan 4, 2015)

losinc said:


> Howdy Folks,
> 
> I'm trying to tune my Auber 1512a
> 
> ...


Quick update : on start up I over shoot by 200° then settles at 660.

My coil turns red for a second then it's back to normal. I'm trying to extend the life of my coils, so which numbers should I turn down. 

I got these numbers from a friend's unit he purchased on a forum. 

Thanks again info and help guys!


----------



## budbro18 (Jan 4, 2015)

losinc said:


> Quick update : on start up I over shoot by 200° then settles at 660.
> 
> My coil turns red for a second then it's back to normal. I'm trying to extend the life of my coils, so which numbers should I turn down.
> 
> ...



Autotune really works the best. Most turn red on heat up even if they barely overshoot. Mine over shoots by about 15-25 but its because its going from room temp to 700 (ish) and the thermocouple is in the end and its usually the middle ring that gets red because its the center of the coil where i think the most resistance is. So once it passes its heat through the coil to the thermocouple it realizes its way over temp.

But after all theconfigurations i tried autotune works the best.


----------



## budbro18 (Jan 4, 2015)

SnapsProvolone said:


> Let us know how long it lasts. Note that a plastic enclosure with no vents could get pretty warm inside.
> 
> I suppose if you don't have it running for extended periods......


Ive had it for about a year. 
For sure. Ive debated cutting slits in it to vent but never decided to. Its never on for more than 4 hours at a time. Occasionally 8-10 but rarely. And it never really gets to warm. The plastic will get cold because most places i take it are a little colder (basements and shit) so compared to the rest of the plastic its warm buts its barely warm.


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## torturekiller420 (Jan 10, 2015)

Well ive got all the parts here or almost here for my next build, This time i think i got the enclosure i would really like to go with. I went with a blue screen and blue light up button this time as well. Ive come to the conclusion that i prefer my personal built unit over the 2 i have purchased. Im confident with my unit and its performance. All my friends have been loving it, so im getting ready to wholesale a bunch of parts to produce 5-10 and see how it goes selling them to friends locally. According to usps tracking, my enclosure should arrive today. I hope by tomorrow to have some finished pics up for you guys! Also now that i have 2 of my own personal built units, im going to program each with a different PID setting that has been recommended to me and have them run side by side and get used, see if theres much of a difference and which settings i would like to go with for the units im producing.

Have A Great ShatterDay EveryOne!!!


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## torturekiller420 (Jan 11, 2015)

Built this today. Im getting ready to wholesale a bunch of parts and will have extras for sale for anyone interested in building their own unit. I will never use a dremel again after today, from now on i will be patient and take the boxes to work and mill and drill them. but 5-10 at a time so there ready.


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## Fadedawg (Jan 12, 2015)

torturekiller420 said:


> Built this today. Im getting ready to wholesale a bunch of parts and will have extras for sale for anyone interested in building their own unit. I will never use a dremel again after today, from now on i will be patient and take the boxes to work and mill and drill them. but 5-10 at a time so there ready.
> 
> View attachment 3329704 View attachment 3329705


We use a hacking saw and flat bastard file for prototype square cutouts. 

A Dremmel is too hard for me personally to cut long straight lines with, cause the small diameter cutting wheels/points/burrs have a mind of their own. By cocking the flat file at an angle, you can average out the error and easily knock off peaks and bulges, as well as square corners, holding it flat and perpendicular.


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## budbro18 (Jan 12, 2015)

My boxes were all plastic so a dremel and about 5 minutes id bust it out. Id do a rough cut about 1/8" outside the actual area needed cut then go in there with 2 sanding drums, one medium one small (for the corners) and then sharpen up the corners with the cutting wheels. It would be a much bigger bitch doing it into aluminum or any other metal for that matter. 
Companies even make custom punch plates if you happen to have a press or can rig up a press. Its only aluminum so luckily a softish metal. But not sure how much the dies/punches cost.


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## torturekiller420 (Jan 12, 2015)

Im a welder&fabricator and machinists by trade. Ill be taking all my boxes to work from now on and use a mill to make my holes. That was my intention's for this box, but i got overly excited when it showed up on a saturday and i didnt go back to work until today, i had to make ends meet so i could build this baby yesterday. I really enjoy these types of projects so these are a great way to spend my days off work during this winter with nothing to do. I kind of fucked up the controller slot but lucky me they include a rubber gasket for guys like me to cover up said fuck ups. Anyways, im back on the hunt for a different box, a lot of companies use this exact or a very similar enclosure. I only plan to sell a few locally, but i would still like something just a bit different than anyone else's


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## nathan7 (Jan 12, 2015)

@budbro18 

Do the Auber temperature controllers come in their default state ready to wire up and go? Thanks!


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## budbro18 (Jan 13, 2015)

nathan7 said:


> @budbro18
> 
> Do the Auber temperature controllers come in their default state ready to wire up and go? Thanks!


Yup already set to k type thermocouple too.


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## Mr. Shine (Jan 13, 2015)




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## budbro18 (Jan 13, 2015)

torturekiller420 said:


> Im a welder&fabricator and machinists by trade. Ill be taking all my boxes to work from now on and use a mill to make my holes. That was my intention's for this box, but i got overly excited when it showed up on a saturday and i didnt go back to work until today, i had to make ends meet so i could build this baby yesterday. I really enjoy these types of projects so these are a great way to spend my days off work during this winter with nothing to do. I kind of fucked up the controller slot but lucky me they include a rubber gasket for guys like me to cover up said fuck ups. Anyways, im back on the hunt for a different box, a lot of companies use this exact or a very similar enclosure. I only plan to sell a few locally, but i would still like something just a bit different than anyone else's



Hell yeah thats why im goin with generic pelican cases. People have done them but theyd work best for my situation of always goin places and no one having a set up or being out of tane. And i need a case for my piece so its just a win win. 

Ill throw up some pictures once i get around to doin that stuff.


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## budbro18 (Jan 13, 2015)

Mr. Shine said:


> View attachment 3331096


Someone leave an enail on??


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## Mr. Shine (Jan 13, 2015)

budbro18 said:


> Hell yeah thats why im goin with generic pelican cases. People have done them but theyd work best for my situation of always goin places and no one having a set up or being out of tane. And i need a case for my piece so its just a win win.
> 
> Ill throw up some pictures once i get around to doin that stuff.


See what kind of prices you can get on a PVC lined or otherwise ammo can


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## budbro18 (Jan 13, 2015)

Mr. Shine said:


> See what kind of prices you can get on a PVC lined or otherwise ammo can


I saw a plastic ammo can at harbor freight that looked good and i have one or two ammo cans lyin around but they were my grandpas so theyre kinda sentimental. But itd be nice cause of the natural heat sinking of the metal.


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## Mr. Shine (Jan 13, 2015)

Fire safe plumbers foam bro if you need to put a thin layer of something on the inside of the ammo cans to make it so it won't conduct electricity


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## torturekiller420 (Jan 14, 2015)

If your box is conducting electricity, you have some serious problems on your hands.


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## SnapsProvolone (Jan 14, 2015)

Any metal housing should be grounded if AC powered.


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## sourorbetter (Jan 15, 2015)

So I've been on a long mission trying to figure out my build. I wired everything perfectly and exactly how you put it. The best I was able to do with it was get to 90 degrees. I thought the pid had an issue so I called Auber and they said it was my coil but it works perfect on the analogue dnail I purchased the coil with from D-Nail. I end up sending the the pid to auber to be checked out and it's working fine. 

A few days after that I take my Borobook Quartz banger and coil to my buddy's place to use on his D-Nail and it doesn't work. The D-Nail displays "PFA" which means it doesn't sense a heater. I immediately call D-Nail's support line and they tell me that D-Nail's pinout on the XLR is different than in this tutorial. They're XLR pinout is 1. Positive 2. Negative 3. Tc + 4. Tc- 5. Ground

I still haven't been able to switch the pinout since my friend has my soldering iron to test this myself. Has anyone experienced any trouble using this setup with D-Nail coils? I saw mention of someone using one.


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## Yung 72pt Comic Sans (Jan 15, 2015)

torturekiller420 said:


> Built this today. Im getting ready to wholesale a bunch of parts and will have extras for sale for anyone interested in building their own unit. I will never use a dremel again after today, from now on i will be patient and take the boxes to work and mill and drill them. but 5-10 at a time so there ready.
> 
> View attachment 3329704 View attachment 3329705


Looks nice man. Do you have any of these said "extras" for sale yet?


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## Daniel710 (Jan 15, 2015)

I could really use some help I have every thing wired correctly but the pid it reads EEEE and the ssr light does not turn on and it's a brand new ssr any suggestions will help thanks!


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## nathan7 (Jan 15, 2015)

That odd. I'll be attempting to assemble mine this weekend and will report how it goes.


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## Yung 72pt Comic Sans (Jan 15, 2015)

Hey guys I'm planning on trying to assemble this unit once I order all the parts and i found this coil: http://www.oil-coil.com/Kevlar-Coil-Assembly-20mm-ID_p_28.html which seems good but I'm wondering if I should go for the option with the xlr connector already soldered to the end, and if so, what female connection am I going to need?


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## Daniel710 (Jan 16, 2015)

nathan7 said:


> That odd. I'll be attempting to assemble mine this weekend and will report how it goes.


Thanks man if you can post a wiring diagram I'm using an Auber pid and the only probable I'm having is the ssr light isn't turning on and the the pid reads EEEE


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## dorifto710 (Jan 16, 2015)

got everything to start my build. i was just curious, how are you guys mounting the ssr? do you have a ground screw going all the way through your case, or are you using some sort of epoxy?


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## budbro18 (Jan 16, 2015)

sourorbetter said:


> So I've been on a long mission trying to figure out my build. I wired everything perfectly and exactly how you put it. The best I was able to do with it was get to 90 degrees. I thought the pid had an issue so I called Auber and they said it was my coil but it works perfect on the analogue dnail I purchased the coil with from D-Nail. I end up sending the the pid to auber to be checked out and it's working fine.
> 
> A few days after that I take my Borobook Quartz banger and coil to my buddy's place to use on his D-Nail and it doesn't work. The D-Nail displays "PFA" which means it doesn't sense a heater. I immediately call D-Nail's support line and they tell me that D-Nail's pinout on the XLR is different than in this tutorial. They're XLR pinout is 1. Positive 2. Negative 3. Tc + 4. Tc- 5. Ground
> 
> I still haven't been able to switch the pinout since my friend has my soldering iron to test this myself. Has anyone experienced any trouble using this setup with D-Nail coils? I saw mention of someone using one.



Yeah thatll happen. In my tutorial we used ones without any xlr connectors and soldered them on ourselves so we made up the pin combination. so thatll do it. If youre good at soldering you can just cut the cord and wire it however you want or change the pin out of you xlr on your box.


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## budbro18 (Jan 16, 2015)

Daniel710 said:


> Thanks man if you can post a wiring diagram I'm using an Auber pid and the only probable I'm having is the ssr light isn't turning on and the the pid reads EEEE


Is your coil connected? Because it seems like it isnt if thats happening. If not you might have a coil without a thermocouple. Or maybe connected the thermocouple to the wrong slots.


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## budbro18 (Jan 16, 2015)

dorifto710 said:


> got everything to start my build. i was just curious, how are you guys mounting the ssr? do you have a ground screw going all the way through your case, or are you using some sort of epoxy?


Theres a couple options. If youre using a metal housing you can get some thermal grease/paste depending on how permanent you want the ssr in there. I ended up getting 2 bolts and running them through each hole on the SSR and epoxyd the bolts to the bottom. I had to cut them down a little because i was using ones i had lyin aorund the house but you could probably find some 1/2"-3/4" long bolts thatll work fine. I put the bolts through, then tightened the nuts down to they held nicely, then cut them so size (leave this out if buying them), then used epoxy to glue them in place.

This is so the bottom of the SSr is off the ground of the plastic box. Even though they dont get very hot plastic sucks at transfering heat so if youre not going to heat since you should at least let the bottom of the SSR be off the bottom of the plastic enclosure.


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## Daniel710 (Jan 16, 2015)

Can you suggest a correct winging diagram because I believe I have everything correct with the coil connected! The only thing I can think of is that my pid is blown. 


budbro18 said:


> Is your coil connected? Because it seems like it isnt if thats happening. If not you might have a coil without a thermocouple. Or maybe connected the thermocouple to the wrong slots.


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## torturekiller420 (Jan 16, 2015)

I have a D-nail extended life coil for one of Units and it works great, and i actually wire my units with
Pole1-A/C+
Pole2-A/C-
Pole3-TC+
Pole4-TC-
Pole5-Ground

I find this is the most "standard" wiring now amongst enails and coil heater wiring.


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## sourorbetter (Jan 16, 2015)

I went ahead and changed the pinout in the unit as mention above. Since there was a short in my coil I took off the Kevlar cover and found that the wires were melted and fused together, it was all bad. I cut the wires and put my own from the spare that I had from building the enail. The only downside to that is, the gauging of the wires are like twice as thick as the norm. No biggie tho I got it back together and it's working now!

Now on to my next issue, tuning the pid. I set it to 560 and it just blows by it and I just turn it off once it gets to 800 since it doesn't seem like it will stop. I tried pressing and holding the auto tune button but that does nothing really and it quickly gets to 7-800 and the coil begins to get red from the bottom. I tried to search online but I haven't been able to find much and I can't figure it out from the pid manual.


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## SnapsProvolone (Jan 17, 2015)

Sounds like the temperature sensor lines are reading null? Seems the heating works but there is no monitoring of this effect via the TC?


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## budbro18 (Jan 17, 2015)

sourorbetter said:


> I went ahead and changed the pinout in the unit as mention above. Since there was a short in my coil I took off the Kevlar cover and found that the wires were melted and fused together, it was all bad. I cut the wires and put my own from the spare that I had from building the enail. The only downside to that is, the gauging of the wires are like twice as thick as the norm. No biggie tho I got it back together and it's working now!
> 
> Now on to my next issue, tuning the pid. I set it to 560 and it just blows by it and I just turn it off once it gets to 800 since it doesn't seem like it will stop. I tried pressing and holding the auto tune button but that does nothing really and it quickly gets to 7-800 and the coil begins to get red from the bottom. I tried to search online but I haven't been able to find much and I can't figure it out from the pid manual.



Ok this is a problem and mainly because the controller comes set at 700 degrees and doesnt have any data on the coils heating time and shit. Basically what you have to do is go in there and disconnect the HOT between the coil and the SSR. Make sure you wrap it with some tape and set it in a way that it wont make contact with anything. 

Turn on your system and crank the temp down to like 300. Then let it sit there for a second to make sure it remembers and kick it off. Wait a little just in case anything in there can build up current and then go back in and reconnect your HOT to your coil/SSR (whichever you chose to disconnect). 

And for the first run itll be a little scary and depending on your lighting itll get red hot and probably over shoot to 600 ish but itll be fine. Then once it bounces back down to 300 ish or whatever you set it for run an autotune cycle. Itll probably bounce up to 7-800 possibly higher but the coil should be able to handle that. When i clean off my nail every so often ill usually bump it up to 850-900 so they can definitely handle those temps. So after about 5 minutes or so of autotune you should see the SSR light on the pid go from steady constant blinking to a slower blinking and probably hear a slight click as it sets into autotune. 

After that turn it up to 700 and start experimenting with temps. Im using quartz so i have to go a little higher than if i was using titanium. When my nail was brand new i had it at 700 and it was fine. But over time it got seasoned and 725-750 is needed to really finish your dab like i used to on 700. Gotta take my coil off and hit it with a torch and really get it hot haha.

One last thing if your putting your coil on your nail and its a little stiff you should let it heat up first. For me its easy because of the quartz i can be holding the joint of the quartz while the pid is set to 950 and barely feel warmth. Working with titanium though might be different since its easier to accurately mill/cnc titanium that it is to make quartz nails be exact.


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## sourorbetter (Jan 17, 2015)

So I took off the hot from the ssr and set the temp to exactly 300. I put the hot back on the ssr and turned the unit back on. It passed 300 and kept going all the way to 1003 and I turned it off out of fear of damaging the coil. Ive been doing this with the coil sitting on my window's track with the window open to prevent my quartz banger from breaking. I didn't get to run the auto tune and to be honest I worry about the coil breaking from the unit passing 1000 degrees.


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## sourorbetter (Jan 17, 2015)

I put the pid in auto tune mode and its been going at it for more then 10 minutes now and I can't set a temp when pressing the up and down keys, it doesn't respond at all. The temps have been between 950-989. Initially it shot up to 1006 and then began to back down but stabilized around 950. The ssr light is still blinking as the temp fluctuates.


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## dorifto710 (Jan 19, 2015)

cool thanks a ton man, I've been looking everywhere for pictures or info but couldn't find it. ill make sure to post some pics when I'm finished!


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## dorifto710 (Jan 20, 2015)

alright, so i believe i have everything hooked up correctly according to the wiring diagram on the reddit post. and yes unfortunately i have the mypin. (i found the auber after i ordered). but for some reason when i turn my unit on the coil itself starts heating, like the wires that are wrapped in the kevlar start heating up. did i wire incorrectly? I've triple checked and my wiring seems to follow the diagram to a t. also my coil works fine in my dnail, so i know thats not the problem. do you guys know which wires i could have possibly mixed up?


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## dorifto710 (Jan 20, 2015)

could i have possibly soldered my xlr backwards? i did 1 tc- 2tc+ 3ac+ 4ac- 5ground. its a coil manufactured in china, but it also seems to have an extra connection next to the 1 terminal, is that a ground thats supposed to be connected to 1?
was i supposed to do 1 as the ground then 2tc- 3tc+ and so on?


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## sourorbetter (Jan 20, 2015)

So I contacted Auber and D-nail and I set the exact parameters for a 100 watt coil and it kept heating up non stop. D-nail support believes it's the heater's thermocoupler sensor is shorted. I'm going to test my unit with my boy's coil that works. I expect it to and I'll just buy a new coil. I'll report in how the test goes.


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## SnapsProvolone (Jan 20, 2015)

SnapsProvolone said:


> Sounds like the temperature sensor lines are reading null? Seems the heating works but there is no monitoring of this effect via the TC?





sourorbetter said:


> So I contacted Auber and D-nail and I set the exact parameters for a 100 watt coil and it kept heating up non stop. D-nail support believes it's the heater's thermocoupler sensor is shorted. I'm going to test my unit with my boy's coil that works. I expect it to and I'll just buy a new coil. I'll report in how the test goes.


Let me know if i was actually correct.


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## dorifto710 (Jan 21, 2015)

had my xlr wired backwards haha, figured it out! every things working perfect now


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## budbro18 (Jan 21, 2015)

sourorbetter said:


> So I contacted Auber and D-nail and I set the exact parameters for a 100 watt coil and it kept heating up non stop. D-nail support believes it's the heater's thermocoupler sensor is shorted. I'm going to test my unit with my boy's coil that works. I expect it to and I'll just buy a new coil. I'll report in how the test goes.


Yeah that is some crazy shit. You dont happen to have your pid set to Celsius do you? Probably not but just about the last thing i could think of. Its strange its displaying a temp at all if the thermocouple is messed up.


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## Fadedawg (Jan 22, 2015)

budbro18 said:


> Yeah that is some crazy shit. You dont happen to have your pid set to Celsius do you? Probably not but just about the last thing i could think of. Its strange its displaying a temp at all if the thermocouple is messed up.


Have you checked our SSR to make sure it hasn't failed closed?


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## budbro18 (Jan 22, 2015)

Fadedawg said:


> Have you checked our SSR to make sure it hasn't failed closed?


Yup probably the only thing left that could be failing right now.


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## sourorbetter (Jan 22, 2015)

I tested my unit last night with my friend's WORKING dnail coil and it did the exact same thing, it went past the set temp of 440 and just kept rising. I'm going to call Auber now and see what they say. I think it's the ssr and so did the support at dnail if it wasn't the coil. I already sent this PID back to Auber once before to get checked out and it's working perfectly according to them.


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## budbro18 (Jan 22, 2015)

sourorbetter said:


> I tested my unit last night with my friend's WORKING dnail coil and it did the exact same thing, it went past the set temp of 440 and just kept rising. I'm going to call Auber now and see what they say. I think it's the ssr and so did the support at dnail if it wasn't the coil. I already sent this PID back to Auber once before to get checked out and it's working perfectly according to them.


Double check your wiring on your pid and make sure the pid control wires are correct and make sure the hot is going from 2 to 1. i dont know why but they say to do it this way even though it will work either.


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## sourorbetter (Jan 23, 2015)

I spoke with Auber yesterday and they think the ssr is damaged. I'm passed my 90 day warranty so they offered to give me a discount on a new 25a ssr. Hopefully this is the answer to my problems. I'm 99.99% sure my wiring is correct. What do you mean the hot going from 2 to 1? where exactly?


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## sourorbetter (Jan 23, 2015)

This picture is from a few days ago showing my connections. I can't take new ones as I've already removed the ssr.


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## Fadedawg (Jan 24, 2015)

I put an aluminum block under the SSR's for a heat sink, after losing a few controlling motors and mats.


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## sourorbetter (Jan 24, 2015)

Fadedawg said:


> I put an aluminum block under the SSR's for a heat sink, after losing a few controlling motors and mats.


Can you post an example of one you use?

I just read this on a site about ssr's, "With loads of less than 4 amperes, cooling by free flowing convection or forced air currents around the unit is usually sufficient. Loads greater than 4 Amps will require heat sinks."

The coil is only 100 watts/shy of 1 amp. Do you guys really think a heat sink is necessary or would something else suffice?


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## nathan7 (Jan 24, 2015)

My build was successful, but one thing has stumped me. I have an Electric Dabvenue (enail) that I am happy with at ~ 710 depending on the solvent-less material I am melting. I built my new box with the same CB mic connector and pinout to be able to share my 2 coils between the 2 boxes. Everything worked first time but the new box must be set 300 degrees higher (1010) to make the nail feel (to my hand above) even close to the same as when at 710 on the Dabvenue. What is going on?


----------



## torturekiller420 (Jan 25, 2015)

Ive having issues with my second unit now. I got a new dnail extended life coil for it, got everything plugged in and turned on, then i started the auto-tune. the coil is red hot and has stayed red hot for the last 10 minutes. I dont remember my other unit doing this shit during auto-tune and im about to shut it off and set it some PID settings. The temp reads around 600 and stays there, the AT light is still blinking rapidly and with a red hot coil. Did i wire something wrong here?


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## nathan7 (Jan 25, 2015)

@torturekiller420 If we are talking about an Auber, mine does not do that. It sounds like your first unit doesn't do that. Check wiring against previous unit, try the new coil with the old unit, verify pinout of new coil (if came with plug) is as expected. Try old coil on new unit. Report your findings.


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## Fadedawg (Jan 25, 2015)

sourorbetter said:


> Can you post an example of one you use?
> 
> I just read this on a site about ssr's, "With loads of less than 4 amperes, cooling by free flowing convection or forced air currents around the unit is usually sufficient. Loads greater than 4 Amps will require heat sinks."
> 
> The coil is only 100 watts/shy of 1 amp. Do you guys really think a heat sink is necessary or would something else suffice?


Here is a picture showing a row of them attached to an aluminum 3/8" flatbar, in the bottom of a Mk VA2 control panel.


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## budbro18 (Jan 25, 2015)

nathan7 said:


> My build was successful, but one thing has stumped me. I have an Electric Dabvenue (enail) that I am happy with at ~ 710 depending on the solvent-less material I am melting. I built my new box with the same CB mic connector and pinout to be able to share my 2 coils between the 2 boxes. Everything worked first time but the new box must be set 300 degrees higher (1010) to make the nail feel (to my hand above) even close to the same as when at 710 on the Dabvenue. What is going on?



It could be a different wattage coil

Theyre either 100w ish or 200w ish usually. So if you plug in a 200 on a pid tuned/autotuned for a 100 that could cause it. And vice versa. 

Its tough cause all the ones i made never had a problem besides that the auber is set to 700 stock and without autotuning the first start up can be scary. But after the first one i figured out to turn the temp down from the beginning and ever since then its been smooth sailing. 

Id suggest everyone be careful especially during the dry winter because you can build up static and short stuff out. Probably not the SSR but the pid is probably susceptible to static discharge


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## budbro18 (Jan 25, 2015)

Fadedawg said:


> Here is a picture showing a row of them attached to an aluminum 3/8" flatbar, in the bottom of a Mk VA2 control panel.View attachment 3338769



So sexy!!!! That thing probably runs like a champ!


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## Fadedawg (Jan 25, 2015)

It is run by the long chip you can see in the lower center of the left PC board. Once you tell it how many and how long the floods and rinses are, it completes the full extraction cycle.


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## budbro18 (Jan 25, 2015)

Thats nasty! All you need is an auto packer and youre a regular Wayne Szalinski!


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## sourorbetter (Jan 25, 2015)

@Fadedawg Nice! That's a major set up! lol My enclosure box is all aluminum so I think I should be good. I did look into some heat sinks for 25 amp ssr's just in case I wan't to be that guy.


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## nathan7 (Jan 25, 2015)

budbro18 said:


> It could be a different wattage coil
> 
> Theyre either 100w ish or 200w ish usually. So if you plug in a 200 on a pid tuned/autotuned for a 100 that could cause it. And vice versa.
> 
> ...


@budbro18 Hey man thanks for the reply. I have two 100w coils for the Dabvenue which both run nice at ~710F on the Dabvenue. The same coils running on the new box require a setting of at least 200F higher (not quite 300, 910F+) to feel like similar heat. I am running the PID settings Auber gave for 100w heater.


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## nathan7 (Jan 25, 2015)

Compact Dual Display


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## budbro18 (Jan 26, 2015)

nathan7 said:


> @budbro18 Hey man thanks for the reply. I have two 100w coils for the Dabvenue which both run nice at ~710F on the Dabvenue. The same coils running on the new box require a setting of at least 200F higher (not quite 300, 910F+) to feel like similar heat. I am running the PID settings Auber gave for 100w heater.



Thats pretty common because different enails have different pid parameters set based on how the maker liked the speed/recovery of their coils to heat up. Some people turn down the gain so their nail heats up slower and supposedly increases coil life by not throwin it up to 700 in under a minute then overshooting by a little. 

Also, for some reason i never knew, enail makers would use k type thermocouples (most common in coils) but set the pid controller to read it as a J type thermocouple which maybe helped it heat up slower and more controlled because of the type of metal it thinks it is or somethin haha. Im not sure still. But thats why when people would see some of the first enails and flip out because people were dabbing at 1200-1500 degrees (on the screen) but it was actually around 400-600 (give or take) 

All my coils have been 250w 16mm coils with k type thermocouples. Thats what the auber pid i have is set to stock so dont even have to change that. 

Generally the thermocouples are off. Some more than others. The temp on the screen really doesnt have too much to do with the actual temp youre dabbing at. Its in the ballpark but just the placement of the thermocouple and whether you have it up or down and whether youre dabbing off quartz or ceramic or titanium makes a huge difference.

Im pretty sure if i put my coil thats tuned to my quartz nail on a titanium nail and turned it on it would overshoot by a ton at first (longer if i turned off autotune) because its used to throwing that heat into quartz which throws it off quickly and the titanium would hold that heat better and build it better to the point that i could probably turn it down to 600 (725 on quartz) 

Ive been wanting to get a thermocouple to actually put into the nail and on the dish surface to see the real temp. Ive used my IR temp gun and it gives a bunch of different numbers from 350-675 (when set to 700-725) so im assuming the inner dish is about 400-500 ish and the outter wall is probably 500-600. but when i get a thermocouple and my friend gets his titanium enail nail ill do some more testing and let you guys know. Its also hard because the nails so small the IR temp gun is getting some small not heated areas that are probably messing with its average temp. 

In the end just adjust it to where you like temp and keep it set to that. Theyre all slightly different and more or less accurate than each other. The number on the screen is most likely not the real temp of where youre placing your dab.

Fuck all the "low temps only way to go" and "gotta waste it to taste it" bullshit. I set mine to where i find i get a nice smooth hit in my amount of breath, good flavor, finish 90% of the hit, perfect. I find it hard on a quartz enail to really finish a dab down to the last wisp of vapor even when i turn it up higher theres always a little that gets missed from the larger temp drop of quartz. I usually turn it up to about 775-800 (600-675 on ir so probably like 500-600 in the dish) for bigger dabs because the quartz drops temp quick and unless youve got mega lungs its hard to take huge ones on quartz without turnin the temp up. But still good flavor and everything.


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## nathan7 (Jan 26, 2015)

budbro18 said:


> In the end just adjust it to where you like temp and keep it set to that. Theyre all slightly different and more or less accurate than each other. The number on the screen is most likely not the real temp of where youre placing your dab.
> 
> Fuck all the "low temps only way to go" and "gotta waste it to taste it" bullshit. I set mine to where i find i get a nice smooth hit in my amount of breath, good flavor, finish 90% of the hit, perfect. I find it hard on a quartz enail to really finish a dab down to the last wisp of vapor even when i turn it up higher theres always a little that gets missed from the larger temp drop of quartz. I usually turn it up to about 775-800 (600-675 on ir so probably like 500-600 in the dish) for bigger dabs because the quartz drops temp quick and unless youve got mega lungs its hard to take huge ones on quartz without turnin the temp up. But still good flavor and everything.


Yes, differences in accuracy is what I figured, so I will be satisfied with knowing my new unit takes a higher number.

I agree 100% on the low-temp thing. With the temp too low it gets harsh to me, and with it too high it gets different harsh, too hot. There's a sweet spot that is flavorful and smooth. I've found 10 degrees on the display to be a noticeable change. Amazing when I previously used a torch with little control over final temperature!


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## sourorbetter (Jan 27, 2015)

I received the new ssr from Auber today. I installed it and it's working perfectly! It was initially set to 440 and it took a few minutes to get to that temp, unlike before where it would fly past that temp in 30 seconds. It felt so surreal I had to call Auber and make sure I was good! I found it stays on temp and only fluctuates by 1-3 degrees max when dabbing. I'm dabbing off a 20mm "Borobook" quartz banger.


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## kwon (Feb 11, 2015)

I need a deal on a coil, 20mm or flat 100w maybe higher wattage. with xlr5 connection. Ebay is giving me mixed feelings. Can someone help me out. I also am thinking of getting the omron e5cc, but I get the QX version not the RX version correct? Also could someone tell me what connections i make from the omron pid according to the screw #. Thanks!


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## budbro18 (Feb 11, 2015)

the only way to really get a deal on coils is to buy em in bulk from china or do a group buy of some sort. If not youll pay at least 40 for one usually around 50. Ebays fine and thats all theyre doing is buying them in bulk form china for cheaper and selling them to you for a mark up. 

the omrons are a little pricey but if you want that type of screen then go for it. As for the pin out of the pid it should either be written on it or available on the website/instructions.


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## kwon (Feb 11, 2015)

I’m stuck on which coil/nail set up to get. I have a cheap quartz nail whose bowl is 3/4" which is about 19mm. Would I get a 20mm coil for that or would it fit loose? The nail was only $20 so I’m open to suggestions. I know this threads been up for almost a year so there’s got to be a better idea of what to get in that regard. I read the 100w coils are the most efficient and anything more is just wasting electricity right? Thanks a lot for this thread budbro18, I checked it out during the summer and am now building my first. I went with the QX version of the Omron e5cc, expensive yes but its different. I’m building my enail into my rig case so its portable. So far I have ordered the pid, ssr, outlet plug, outlet for coil, power switch, and wire. need a coil and nail now. Thanks guys.


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## Daniel710 (Feb 11, 2015)

Can some one post a wire diagram? I have everything wired correct I think, so the problem is I turn it on and the pid turns on but reads EEEE and this is a brand new pid also a brand new ssr however my ssr light does not turn on. I'm using a Auber pid and a Auber ssr, how ever I'm using a basic rocker switch should I be using one with a fuse in it?


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## kwon (Feb 12, 2015)

http://i.imgur.com/KK6VQn8.jpg 

@Daniel710


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## Daniel710 (Feb 12, 2015)

kwon said:


> http://i.imgur.com/KK6VQn8.jpg
> 
> @Daniel710


Thanks man but that's the one I've been using! Should I be using a rocker switch that has a fuse built in I'm just using a basic rocker switch with out a fuse! The only thing I can think of is the coil isnt matching up I'm using a friends coil until mine comes in. Would the ssr light turn on if the coil isn't connected? Even with my friends coil I still don't get the ssr light to turn on but the pid turns on and reads EEEE? Any suggestions or help would be great thanks!


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## kwon (Feb 12, 2015)

Try this, I think you're good just gotta set up stuff. @Daniel710

At this point, cover the back of the PID controller in electrical tape and plug it in. The PID should read EEE.E at the top.

To get it to read the correct temperature, hit SET and enter “0089”. Then press SET when “Inty” is blinking and scroll up or down to “µ” (this is secretly a “k”, for the K-type thermocouple). Then press SET. Press up so “outy” is blinking and press SET, then change the number to 1 (this sets the PID output to the built-in relay). Press SET again and scroll to “End.” Press SET to exit.

The PID controller should now display the temperature on top, and may start to click. Unplug the controller, and we move on!

These settings are for something else but should get u in the right direction.


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## kwon (Feb 12, 2015)

You could also probably cut out the switch part and wire it directly to the plug outlet, posi neg and ground. That should start the device when you plug the cord in. try this after if the stuff above doesnt solve your issue. and you should set the pid to autotune so it handles everything after you set the desired temperature. Ive never done this before, just what I think you should do. If someone with more experience can chime in thatd be great. Thanks and hopefully your issue is resolved!


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## Daniel710 (Feb 12, 2015)

kwon said:


> Try this, I think you're good just gotta set up stuff. @Daniel710
> 
> At this point, cover the back of the PID controller in electrical tape and plug it in. The PID should read EEE.E at the top.
> 
> ...


Thanks man for the help I did what you said but I'm still getting the same result however I don't have a coil so that might be a factor still waiting on mine to come in. Also you said "inty" and"outy" is blinking however it's not blinking on mine and ssr is still not on. Could this all be because of not having a coil and just testing with a friends coil? I don't have his right now either.


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## kwon (Feb 12, 2015)

I think if its not plugged in, then the device wont work properly since it cant sense the probe thats part of the coil. Thats just my guess. What are the specs on your coil? @Daniel710 im in the market for one as well. What did you spend?


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## Daniel710 (Feb 12, 2015)

kwon said:


> I think if its not plugged in, then the device wont work properly since it cant sense the probe thats part of the coil. Thats just my guess. What are the specs on your coil? @Daniel710 im in the market for one as well. What did you spend?


I'm buying a Gimido type k spent around 80 bucks for that. The coil was the most expensive part out of the whole build. Thanks for the help I'm just going to wait till my coil comes in to do any more testing!


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## sourorbetter (Feb 25, 2015)

what PID settings are you guys using?


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## Flagg420 (Feb 28, 2015)

Yea this sounds really complicated... whats the cost savings to DIY vs. buying one? I must acquire this technology... If its worth the savings, I'll dive in, if its not that huge a difference..... who sells the best for the best value?


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## budbro18 (Mar 1, 2015)

Flagg420 said:


> Yea this sounds really complicated... whats the cost savings to DIY vs. buying one? I must acquire this technology... If its worth the savings, I'll dive in, if its not that huge a difference..... who sells the best for the best value?



The cost is about $75-$150 depending on how hard you want to go and how many supplies you need. If are starting from the ground up with basically no tools, itll be closer to $150. If youve already got a soldering iron and some wire and an old project case you can bust one out for closer to $75. If you dont mind waiting for china to send you parts you can really make em for cheap. But if you want the parts in a timely manner than youll probably pay a few bucks extra for shipping.

As far as assembly goes its pretty simple. People, and even myself, get worked up when messing with things like this because it weird hooking shit straight into the 120v hot if youre not an everyday electrical tinkerer. Even if youre used to RC shit its completely different and a lot more scary when working with HOTs comin right out the wall VS the hots of a battery, even though the batteries could possibly explode if connected wrong. 

Gettin off track


Basically therye easy to assemble. If you get the auber parts (or the same ones just not name brand) youll be goin word for word by this tutorial. The PIDs autotune and after a while heat up perfectly. If you choose to go with slightly cheaper parts or just parts from different manufacturers then there can be some confusion as far as pinouts and PID 
settings/menus are concerned.

Its pretty easy. People seem to overthink it too much. The switch wiring gets people confused a lot. But if you take every part one step at a time its fairly simple. 

Lowest price of units are $200 with an average of about $300. Some are $400-$500 but will usually have a couple year warranty. 

I like makin em myself because if any part breaks i can just replace it for pennies. And even if 1 part broke a year itd be pennies every year to keep up with maintenance. Especially when you consider how much butane/propane youd be buying to equal that amount of nail heating. Even if the most expensive part broke once a year itd be $35-$50 bucks a year to replace. n


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## Flagg420 (Mar 1, 2015)

I work maintenance in a 170 room hotel... wee bit of experience now with playing with hot wires, over the past year or 2 lol...


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## budbro18 (Mar 1, 2015)

Flagg420 said:


> I work maintenance in a 170 room hotel... wee bit of experience now with playing with hot wires, over the past year or 2 lol...


Than it should be easy as can be for you. Wire the switch, Connect your neutrals, one to pid, one to coil. connect all your hots, One to the PID, one to the SSR, then connect SSR output to coil hot. Then connect SSR to PID, then thermocouple to PID. Throw all your grounds in, one to pid one to coil one to ssr. 

Done. Run autotune a few times let the coil burn in and get up to temp a few times and enjoy. Youve got all the equipment already and can probably solder pretty well so shouldnt be hard at all.


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## MR Zulu (Apr 4, 2015)

budbro18 said:


> First one is complete!


That is one of the cleanest DIY E-nails I have ever come across, pm me, I have questions if you could help me out.


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## kwon (Apr 5, 2015)

I just wired everything and turned on my enail for the first time. Im using an omron pid and its so far reading the ambient temperature. I tried going through the settings but I cant figure out how to get it to heat up and autotune. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!


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## MR Zulu (Apr 7, 2015)

I cleaned up the Wiring diagram a little bit


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## MR Zulu (Apr 7, 2015)

kwon said:


> I just wired everything and turned on my enail for the first time. Im using an omron pid and its so far reading the ambient temperature. I tried going through the settings but I cant figure out how to get it to heat up and autotune. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!


what's the model of Omron?


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## Ogrusher (Apr 8, 2015)

Does any one have an updated complete parts list and diagram


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## MR Zulu (Apr 8, 2015)

Ogrusher said:


> Does any one have an updated complete parts list and diagram


yes......wiring schematics..... Look up buddy


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## Ogrusher (Apr 8, 2015)

Thanks


MR Zulu said:


> yes......wiring schematics..... Look up buddy


also wat brand of parts n model r the best


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## MR Zulu (Apr 8, 2015)

Ogrusher said:


> Thanks
> 
> also wat brand of parts n model r the best


Well that's more preference, I personally like the Omron E5CN , E5CC & the MyPIN TA4 & TA8, some people frown at the Mypin but I have had success with them so idk you decide for your self , for SSR I use one that has a output rating of "25a @ 24v-380v DA SSR from FOTEk or Omron " .... now you can pick what ever XLR or Xlr Mini plug you want.... and for coil..... I don't like to give out my source ... but its in Shenzhen china....... but I have them make to spec that I give them, & bit follows... 16-22MM Internal Diameter with a length of about 5 inches with a slight bend at the end to take off the stress from the down stem , but its a 100w/110v-220v max , TC type K, 5 Pin XLR & Mini's , Military Grade Kevlar sleeve, @ about a 4 Foot cord. I do some times have a little fun with the Alarms on the PID's I will attach LED's or other diode's for a neat look,
LMK if you need any other help.... I can also provide you some parts Via Payment & pay pal with a verified address that is ..... { *ATTN* *Admins*..... this is in no way advertisement just trying to help out my community, if I have violated some rule of yours I'm sorry, I'm new and will edit this post.}


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## MR Zulu (Apr 9, 2015)

kwon said:


> I just wired everything and turned on my enail for the first time. Im using an omron pid and its so far reading the ambient temperature. I tried going through the settings but I cant figure out how to get it to heat up and autotune. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!


Also it could possible that you have the TC- & TC+ in reverse ?


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## kwon (Apr 15, 2015)

I figured it out! I have the omron e5cc qx version. Now it keeps a consistent temperature and works great with my flatcoil + infinity nail. Anyone that needs a great guide for setting up the omron for the first time, use this guide! http://www.miel.si/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/E5CC-Getting-Started-Guide.pdf


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## MR Zulu (Apr 15, 2015)

kwon said:


> I figured it out! I have the omron e5cc qx version. Now it keeps a consistent temperature and works great with my flatcoil + infinity nail. Anyone that needs a great guide for setting up the omron for the first time, use this guide! http://www.miel.si/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/E5CC-Getting-Started-Guide.pdf


that's awesome, E5CC is my favorite PID, Never knew about that guide, Great Sore!! so what ended up being the problem with your setup/


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## bryanoi92 (May 1, 2015)

kwon said:


> I figured it out! I have the omron e5cc qx version. Now it keeps a consistent temperature and works great with my flatcoil + infinity nail. Anyone that needs a great guide for setting up the omron for the first time, use this guide! http://www.miel.si/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/E5CC-Getting-Started-Guide.pdf


Hey man do u think you can help me with my enail? I have a omron e5cc PID and everything is connected but for some reason it wont heat up


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## MR Zulu (May 2, 2015)

bryanoi92 said:


> Hey man do u think you can help me with my enail? I have a omron e5cc PID and everything is connected but for some reason it wont heat up


Do you have a multi meter? If you do. Check your Powerflow to your coil, it could be something as simple as a wire not connected and need to be re soldered. But if you don't just do a good connection check.


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## DrGreenLeaf (May 3, 2015)

I have a quick question on wiring. Have people been using the same gauge wire to wire all components, or like 20-18 gauge for control wiring and like 14 gauge for the power to coil since more power is being used by the coil?


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## MR Zulu (May 6, 2015)

DrGreenLeaf said:


> I have a quick question on wiring. Have people been using the same gauge wire to wire all components, or like 20-18 gauge for control wiring and like 14 gauge for the power to coil since more power is being used by the coil?



I have been using 14G all the way around, every now and then if I need to save a bit of space in a box I'll use 18g for my TC


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## MR Zulu (May 6, 2015)

kwon said:


> I just wired everything and turned on my enail for the first time. Im using an omron pid and its so far reading the ambient temperature. I tried going through the settings but I cant figure out how to get it to heat up and autotune. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!


hey got a quick question for you, I have never had this issue with the Omron E5CC before but I'm haveing the same issue with it only reading the ambient temperature, I have gone in and started the auto tune ( normally only takes a hour) and it tuned for over 4 hours and only got to 83 degrees, I'm thinking it may be my ssr because the light doesn't light up all that bright. But what did you have to do to get it to stop with the temp ambient temp reading and not heating?


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## DrGreenLeaf (May 6, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> I have been using 14G all the way around, every now and then if I need to save a bit of space in a box I'll use 18g for my TC


OK, that's pretty much what I figured. Thought I read in the auber instructions could use 20AWG for everything on the pid side of the SSR. The output of the SSR, which actually powers the coil needs to be gauged according to the load. Makes sense, and can obviously save $$ and will take up less space. 

Sent from my SGH-T399N using Rollitup mobile app


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## MR Zulu (May 7, 2015)

so I found out my issue through process of elimination...... ..... My pid is a dud not my ssr..... Soooo this is what I found, I started testing everything to make sure the right voltages was right ... I get to my output on my pid and its only putting out 2.7v ( Damn it!! ) well my ssr needs at least 3v to trigger. So now I get to buy another pid And I'm almost certain that the eBay seller wont send a new one but on the plus side I have a nifty thermometer till then


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## DrGreenLeaf (May 7, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> so I found out my issue through process of elimination...... ..... My pid is a dud not my ssr..... Soooo this is what I found, I started testing everything to make sure the right voltages was right ... I get to my output on my pid and its only putting out 2.7v ( Damn it!! ) well my ssr needs at least 3v to trigger. So now I get to buy another pid And I'm almost certain that the eBay seller wont send a new one but on the plus side I have a nifty thermometer till then


I personally have stayed away from purchasing items off eBay. I chose to go with Auber for my first build. Outta Georgia, and they actually make their own enail makes the support that much better. I've always been a D.I.Y type, work maintenance, hvac background so this was pretty easy to put together. My coil and quartz banger should arrive on Friday. So I still need a female xlr connector. I saw that you recommended one that was like $43 dollars or something like that... was wondering why that one when there are a ton of others for a few $$ ??

Sent from my SGH-T399N using Rollitup mobile app


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## DrGreenLeaf (May 8, 2015)

A quick picture of the coil and quartz banger that came in today. Just waiting on my female xlr to fire this thing up...

Sent from my SGH-T399N using Rollitup mobile app


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## MR Zulu (May 9, 2015)

DrGreenLeaf said:


> I personally have stayed away from purchasing items off eBay. I chose to go with Auber for my first build. Outta Georgia, and they actually make their own enail makes the support that much better. I've always been a D.I.Y type, work maintenance, hvac background so this was pretty easy to put together. My coil and quartz banger should arrive on Friday. So I still need a female xlr connector. I saw that you recommended one that was like $43 dollars or something like that... was wondering why that one when there are a ton of others for a few $$ ??
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T399N using Rollitup mobile app


I never once stated any price of any XLR plug specially a dumb ass price like $43. So before you go making Some crazy acquisitions get your facts straight. Also I had to outsource for my PLC because my industrial shop I go to for equipment was out of the qsam800 ( yes I'm aware that this isn't the model number we just call it the Qsam-800 in my industry.) but I guarantee I pay 1/10 of what you pay , here I'll give you a price and this is my first and last time quoting any price but I pay $12.83 for any Omron E5CC series ( but speaking of Omron the Communication series is really neat because you can link to a phone and control your temp from there.) mull that over for a bit and you can imagine the possibility's


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## DrGreenLeaf (May 9, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> I never once stated any price of any XLR plug specially any dumb ass price like $43.


Sorry brother, that's just what came up when I clicked on the link. from the most recent parts list on this thread that I had found. Thought it had been posted by you, now that I look back through posts I don't even see it. Tooo many dabs, my bad ..... 

Sent from my SGH-T399N using Rollitup mobile app


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## DrGreenLeaf (May 9, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> I never once stated any price of any XLR plug specially a dumb ass price like $43. So before you go making Some crazy acquisitions get your facts straight. Also I had to outsource for my PLC because my industrial shop I go to for equipment was out of the qsam800 ( yes I'm aware that this isn't the model number we just call it the Qsam-800 in my industry.) but I guarantee I pay 1/10 of what you pay , here I'll give you a price and this is my first and last time quoting any price but I pay $12.83 for any Omron E5CC series ( but speaking of Omron the Communication series is really neat because you can link to a phone and control your temp from there.) mull that over for a bit and you can imagine the possibility's


You got any of those omron's for sale?


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## budbro18 (May 12, 2015)

DrGreenLeaf said:


> Sorry brother, that's just what came up when I clicked on the link. from the most recent parts list on this thread that I had found. Thought it had been posted by you, now that I look back through posts I don't even see it. Tooo many dabs, my bad .....
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T399N using Rollitup mobile app


Thats the hard part about this thread. Once you get your enail assembled the hash flows so effortlessly that its hard to remember to come back to the forum and update your findings haha. Ill throw up another parts list soon. the other ones are waaaaaaay back and use some slightly different parts that ive changed from now a days. Mostly just the hobby box thing and the coil i recommend.


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## DrGreenLeaf (May 12, 2015)

Got it all put together, getting everything dialed in. Am loving it so far. Am glad I decided to build one....

Sent from my SGH-T399N using Rollitup mobile app


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## MR Zulu (May 12, 2015)

its complete .... *Dab* Time ......... i might have to keep this one


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## DrGreenLeaf (May 16, 2015)

My newest enail.... What's everybody think? Who could use one of these?

Sent from my SGH-T399N using Rollitup mobile app


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## budbro18 (May 16, 2015)

DrGreenLeaf said:


> My newest enail.... What's everybody think? Who could use one of these?
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T399N using Rollitup mobile app


Hell yeah ive been wanting to put one in my coffee table thing i have. ITs nasty the top of it pulls out and swivels around so its perfect for passing the piece because you just pass the table hahaha. piece never has to come off the table!


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## budbro18 (May 16, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> its complete .... *Dab* Time ......... i might have to keep this one


Looks good! The inside looks a little cramped but they all are. Whats that metal thing in the dead center of it??


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## LiquidJunglist (May 16, 2015)

Ok guys I'm getting down to the nitty gritty of making my DIY E-Nail. I decided to make Project Box all on my own in 3d and have it printed via 3D Hubs. Now I'm about to get my first prototype but i made some mistakes on the outside measurements, I'm going to be putting it in a case and such but thats why they call it a PROTOTYPE .

So i have a question i am wanting to add 2 USB POWER ONLY!! To the wiring diagram. I know you take apart, but i know there is a way to wire they small panel mounted USB 2.0 Terminals to Charge Only?

Ill post a pic of my project as i get closer to the end. When i finish my 2nd printed case ill post some pics.


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## MR Zulu (May 16, 2015)

budbro18 said:


> Looks good! The inside looks a little cramped but they all are. Whats that metal thing in the dead center of it??


yeah the chrome box is my big ass 110v to 12v converter ( to power small fan on top half of box , I only did it because of how small the enclosure is.) , I had an extra one laying around from An older project, I have been looking at one that is 1/5 the size of that one. Its just a temporary solution for a cooling idea.


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## MR Zulu (May 16, 2015)

LiquidJunglist said:


> Ok guys I'm getting down to the nitty gritty of making my DIY E-Nail. I decided to make Project Box all on my own in 3d and have it printed via 3D Hubs. Now I'm about to get my first prototype but i made some mistakes on the outside measurements, I'm going to be putting it in a case and such but thats why they call it a PROTOTYPE .
> 
> So i have a question i am wanting to add 2 USB POWER ONLY!! To the wiring diagram. I know you take apart, but i know there is a way to wire they small panel mounted USB 2.0 Terminals to Charge Only?
> 
> Ill post a pic of my project as i get closer to the end. When i finish my 2nd printed case ill post some pics.


I'm sorry I'm unclear as to what exactly your question is? Are you trying to get the proper power for a usb on the box? Or are you thinking you can power the nail off of a Usb? ( 5v won't do it if that's what your thinking)


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## LiquidJunglist (May 17, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> I'm sorry I'm unclear as to what exactly your question is? Are you trying to get the proper power for a usb on the box? Or are you thinking you can power the nail off of a Usb? ( 5v won't do it if that's what your thinking)


I'm trying to have power added to the box so i can do some dabs and charge my phone. But i just decides to not do that I'm going to just use a standard US wall plug ^_^.


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## MR Zulu (May 18, 2015)

LiquidJunglist said:


> I'm trying to have power added to the box so i can do some dabs and charge my phone. But i just decides to not do that I'm going to just use a standard US wall plug ^_^.


if you wanted to do a usb power for charging a phone, you just need a 110v to 5v 300ma converter ( now I use eBay for some parts hear and there, as log as you are familiar with the seller than you will be just fine but be careful if your not, but this guy is solid! Ships fast from china and is extremely helpful with his customer service, (. http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-110V-220V-to-DC-5V-adapter-converter-regulator-Switching-Power-Supply-Board-/230978365924?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35c76229e4 ) I use these and they are perfect for what you want.... And under $5 how can you beat that? And then you just need a surface mount female usb port and your set. Now I normally won't tell people about this, but if you have wireless charging capability you can hide a Qi charge pad inside your enclosure, and all you have to do is place your phone on top of your box and dab. I have done this feature on about 20+ boxes, customers really love the extra features that I offer. About 17 different types of features for my customers to choose from.


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## bryanoi92 (May 20, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> its complete .... *Dab* Time ......... i might have to keep this one


Did you use this wiring diagram? http://i.imgur.com/E7PUQKV.jpg


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## MR Zulu (May 20, 2015)

bryanoi92 said:


> Did you use this wiring diagram? http://i.imgur.com/E7PUQKV.jpg


nope that's not mine. Look back a few pages in this thread. That is kinda a version of what I used, but like i said before, I don't tell people what or how i do it, I will drop hints from time to time but that's it. So in my wiring diagram that you will find is just a clear up ver. Of what some gentleman posted in the early beginning of this. Not mine I don't take any credit for it. My wiring diagram is dramatically different. But if your inclined enough to know what's what & how to add find and use a power source, then you'll have no problem, if you need more one on one help PM me & I'll give you my business number and I'll help you out.


----------



## MR Zulu (May 20, 2015)

this is what i cleaned up. Very simple to modify to what ever PID or features you might like to add.


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## schonwandabs (May 21, 2015)

budbro18 said:


> View attachment 3002449
> 
> Coils that are on the way!!!


These are the 16mm coil, right?


----------



## schonwandabs (May 21, 2015)

losinc said:


> Quick update : on start up I over shoot by 200° then settles at 660.
> 
> My coil turns red for a second then it's back to normal. I'm trying to extend the life of my coils, so which numbers should I turn down.
> 
> ...


It has something to do with the coil construction, the K TC can tell the temperature in the end of the coil, So the hottest part of the coil is in the middle around. that is why your coil turn red first which shows overheat of the coil. So to dab in the best perfect condition of 710 F has 2 ways, choose the right Ti nail if keep the present setting or know well about how to adjust the PID.

I make this for market in china, So I know this very well. But instead of just assembling, we have machine to test the Ti Nail Temperature and then collect the data and correct the settings.

Writing this is to tell that make a good enail, not only just assemble, wires and make different sharps, but also need to know how to get the data of it working with different Ti Nails
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Schonwan Tech


----------



## schonwandabs (May 21, 2015)

sourorbetter said:


> So I've been on a long mission trying to figure out my build. I wired everything perfectly and exactly how you put it. The best I was able to do with it was get to 90 degrees. I thought the pid had an issue so I called Auber and they said it was my coil but it works perfect on the analogue dnail I purchased the coil with from D-Nail. I end up sending the the pid to auber to be checked out and it's working fine.
> 
> A few days after that I take my Borobook Quartz banger and coil to my buddy's place to use on his D-Nail and it doesn't work. The D-Nail displays "PFA" which means it doesn't sense a heater. I immediately call D-Nail's support line and they tell me that D-Nail's pinout on the XLR is different than in this tutorial. They're XLR pinout is 1. Positive 2. Negative 3. Tc + 4. Tc- 5. Ground
> 
> I still haven't been able to switch the pinout since my friend has my soldering iron to test this myself. Has anyone experienced any trouble using this setup with D-Nail coils? I saw mention of someone using one.


It has something to do with the wired of the connector for the coil line you do.

Pay Attention to the information from D-nail very much please, 
1. Positive 2. Negative 3. Tc + 4. Tc- 5. Ground
Important, you need to make the connector wired also in this way(1. Positive 2. Negative 3. Tc + 4. Tc- 5. Ground), especially the 3 and 4, if it is reverse, then the temperature will not go up.

So try to check the connector wired ways


----------



## schonwandabs (May 21, 2015)

sourorbetter said:


> I went ahead and changed the pinout in the unit as mention above. Since there was a short in my coil I took off the Kevlar cover and found that the wires were melted and fused together, it was all bad. I cut the wires and put my own from the spare that I had from building the enail. The only downside to that is, the gauging of the wires are like twice as thick as the norm. No biggie tho I got it back together and it's working now!
> 
> Now on to my next issue, tuning the pid. I set it to 560 and it just blows by it and I just turn it off once it gets to 800 since it doesn't seem like it will stop. I tried pressing and holding the auto tune button but that does nothing really and it quickly gets to 7-800 and the coil begins to get red from the bottom. I tried to search online but I haven't been able to find much and I can't figure it out from the pid manual.


According to this, I can tell that your PID is working in the default set. when you turn it on and set to 560, it can reach that but it will go on heating up because of the default set is 800 around. It has nothing to do with the SSR or coil or others, just has something to do with your PID data. that is what I can tell you exactly 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Schonwan Tech


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## MR Zulu (May 21, 2015)

that's not always true with the pinout , not every company uses the same configuration. The company I have been working with, uses this configuration shown in this picture


schonwandabs said:


> It has something to do with the wired of the connector for the coil line you do.
> 
> Pay Attention to the information from D-nail very much please,
> 1. Positive 2. Negative 3. Tc + 4. Tc- 5. Ground
> ...


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## MR Zulu (May 21, 2015)

OR maybe my new source is mistaken and that's why sometimes I get a coil that just won't heat maybe?


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## schonwandabs (May 21, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> that's not always true with the pinout , not every company uses the same configuration. The company I have been working with, uses this configuration shown in this picture


 yes, I think when wired, need to do same wired ways in the connector as the coil wire do, otherwise, they will get no heat or break
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


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## schonwandabs (May 21, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> OR maybe my new source is mistaken and that's why sometimes I get a coil that just won't heat maybe?


Yea, you need to check your coil and wired in correct way


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## MR Zulu (May 21, 2015)

schonwandabs said:


> yes, I think when wired, need to do same wired ways in the connector as the coil wire do, otherwise, they will get no heat or break
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


this looks exactly like my coil from this new company in Shenzhen, what would the wire colors be so I can cross check what they say or did in this plug?


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## schonwandabs (May 21, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> this looks exactly like my coil from this new company in Shenzhen, what would the wire colors be so I can cross check what they say or did in this plug?


You can call me Jan instead of new company, We have been in this area for long. Just did not join these forums though.
110V-100W-K style. I am sure yours are not from us, and better you can ask your supplier to do 120V with that female nail.

BTW, you buy the whole coil wire with the connector on it when you assemble the enail by yourself?


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## MR Zulu (May 21, 2015)

schonwandabs said:


> You can call me Jan instead of new company, We have been in this area for long. Just did not join these forums though.
> 110V-100W-K style. I am sure yours are not from us, and better you can ask your supplier to do 120V with that female nail.
> 
> BTW, you buy the whole coil wire with the connector on it when you assemble the enail by yourself?


I wasn't referring to you as " new company" i apologize if i seemed like I was referring to you. I was talking about this new company that I recently found and buying coils from. But my name is Brett its nice to formally meet you Jan, but yes I bought the coil with plug already attached. And yes it is a 110V-100W-K style coil. I noticed that the numbers on my coil match your picture exactly. Is it possible that I bought one of yours just sold through a third party?


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## MR Zulu (May 21, 2015)

schonwandabs said:


> You can call me Jan instead of new company, We have been in this area for long. Just did not join these forums though.
> 110V-100W-K style. I am sure yours are not from us, and better you can ask your supplier to do 120V with that female nail.
> 
> BTW, you buy the whole coil wire with the connector on it when you assemble the enail by yourself?


I just went and looked into who sold me the coil , and its a company goes by the name of... Carolong Technology, familiar with this company?


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## schonwandabs (May 22, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> I wasn't referring to you as " new company" i apologize if i seemed like I was referring to you. I was talking about this new company that I recently found and buying coils from. But my name is Brett its nice to formally meet you Jan, but yes I bought the coil with plug already attached. And yes it is a 110V-100W-K style coil. I noticed that the numbers on my coil match your picture exactly. Is it possible that I bought one of yours just sold through a third party?


 It is not good for you to have just these coils only sold to the third party, It has something to do with the wire ways. Haven't you talked to your supplier of these details, because as a manufacture here, I can confirm you that, many wires of the present enail is different, even they look like the same. They need to know how you wire or the third party wire the enail PID poles and SSR to the connector which I am going to showing you a picture in the attachment to make sure you understad me.

Even you buy from us, I can not sell to you before we are clear of the ways you wire to the connector.

By the way, Your supplier talked about these with you?


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## MR Zulu (May 22, 2015)

schonwandabs said:


> It is not good for you to have just these coils only sold to the third party, It has something to do with the wire ways. Haven't you talked to your supplier of these details, because as a manufacture here, I can confirm you that, many wires of the present enail is different, even they look like the same. They need to know how you wire or the third party wire the enail PID poles and SSR to the connector which I am going to showing you a picture in the attachment to make sure you understad me.
> 
> Even you buy from us, I can not sell to you before we are clear of the ways you wire to the connector.
> 
> By the way, Your supplier talked about these with you?


yes I have that connection and yeah I asked my seller what the pinout was and the first picture i posted with the plug end was what they emailed me, the 2nd picture is my box I made and the coil plug that they already had on the coil when I bought it.


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## schonwandabs (May 22, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> I just went and looked into who sold me the coil , and its a company goes by the name of... Carolong Technology, familiar with this company?


Is this in USA, I just looked into it on google, just showed
North Carolina Tech Association
4020 Westchase Blvd #350
Raleigh, NC 27607
United States

Heard nothing about this company, I only know that there are some( less than 10 manufacture in Shenzhen city), most of the other suppliers are trading company,I do not know about yours, so sorry, and also one big problem of most of these manufactures here is that they do know how to assemble it, but little care about the accurate temperatue on Ti Nail test


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## MR Zulu (May 22, 2015)

schonwandabs said:


> Is this in USA, I just looked into it on google, just showed
> North Carolina Tech Association
> 4020 Westchase Blvd #350
> Raleigh, NC 27607
> ...


no the company is out of Shenzhen, I was on a site called DH gate


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## schonwandabs (May 22, 2015)

Brett, I viewed your pinout picture, So you sure you wired to plug( I call connector) as what they show you, 1, TC- 2, TC+ 3 earth wire, 4 L wire from SSR, 5 N wire to the AC charger ( You can not reverse 1 and 2). If yes, Then it has something to do with the quality of the coil wire, They did not test it before they send it out to you.
The AC wire of 4 and 5 in the coil is broken, that means as I posted before, your coil can only sense the arounds, but it has no power to heat up.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
#Schonwan Tech, #Schonwandabs


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## MR Zulu (May 22, 2015)

schonwandabs said:


> Brett, I viewed your pinout picture, So you sure you wired to plug( I call connector) as what they show you, 1, TC- 2, TC+ 3 earth wire, 4 L wire from SSR, 5 N wire to the AC charger ( You can not reverse 1 and 2). If yes, Then it has something to do with the quality of the coil wire, They did not test it before they send it out to you.
> The AC wire of 4 and 5 in the coil is broken, that means as I posted before, your coil can only sense the arounds, but it has no power to heat up.
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> #Schonwan Tech, #Schonwandabs


I will double check in the morning . Its Midnight here now , I appreciate your help and support with this. I will let you know ASAP


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## schonwandabs (May 22, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> no the company is out of Shenzhen, I was on a site called DH gate


 Before conclue all the aboves, you need to confirm wire from PID TO SSR AND PID is also right


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## MR Zulu (May 22, 2015)

so I guess I was confused on the pinout I received from my supplier, I have my Tc- on #4 & Tc+ on #5, I thought that this was right since what the pinout said & because my PLC was showing what I was guessing was a ambient temperature. When I power this latest build it only gets to 90°F , I have ran auto tune with no luck.


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## schonwandabs (May 22, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> so I guess I was confused on the pinout I received from my supplier, I have my Tc- on #4 & Tc+ on #5, I thought that this was right since what the pinout said & because my PLC was showing what I was guessing was a ambient temperature. When I power this latest build it only gets to 90°F , I have ran auto tune with no luck.


90 F is the ambient Temp sensed by the coil, Yours wire is different from your supplier as I think then, just correct to see whether then it can wor well or not


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## schonwandabs (May 22, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> so I guess I was confused on the pinout I received from my supplier, I have my Tc- on #4 & Tc+ on #5, I thought that this was right since what the pinout said & because my PLC was showing what I was guessing was a ambient temperature. When I power this latest build it only gets to 90°F , I have ran auto tune with no luck.


 Brett, So next time when you buy from them, better to tell them how you wire the enail controller.


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## MR Zulu (May 22, 2015)

schonwandabs said:


> Brett, So next time when you buy from them, better to tell them how you wire the enail controller.


I may never order from them again, I'm not impressed with quality control from them.


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## schonwandabs (May 22, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> I may never order from them again, I'm not impressed with quality control from them.


 Sorry on that, not going to push them away. Just be helpful on the enail with what I know about it


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## MR Zulu (May 22, 2015)

schonwandabs said:


> Sorry on that, not going to push them away. Just be helpful on the enail with what I know about it


hey Jan , side question. If I have the Omron E5CC-RX2ASM-800 that has a output of 110v could i bypass the SSR and hook my coil up to the PID with the 110v output? instead of the Omron
E5CC-QX2ASM-800 that has a 12v output for SSR triggering.


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## schonwandabs (May 22, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> hey Jan , side question. If I have the Omron E5CC-RX2ASM-800 that has a output of 110v could i bypass using the SSR and hook my coil up the the PID with the 110v output? instead of the Omron
> E5CC-QX2ASM-800 that has a 12v output for SSR triggering.


 I will give you an answer on Monday, not so clear of your writing as english is not so good. These weekends, also invite some friends to visit us. Have a good weekend


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## schonwandabs (May 24, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> hey Jan , side question. If I have the Omron E5CC-RX2ASM-800 that has a output of 110v could i bypass the SSR and hook my coil up to the PID with the 110v output? instead of the Omron
> E5CC-QX2ASM-800 that has a 12v output for SSR triggering.


 Brett, I am back now, I just have an Omron E5CC-QX2ASM-800 which will be connecting with an SSR while yours with RELAY.
1,2 to Relay, 5 TC-, 6 TC +, 11, 12 to L, N cord.

Possible price I guess will be 125-130USD for the whole kits on it, Do not know USA price on it


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## schonwandabs (May 24, 2015)

For QX2ASM, make sure the SSR with the right poles, otherwise, it will not heat up or working


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## MR Zulu (May 25, 2015)

da FAQ?


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## schonwandabs (May 25, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> View attachment 3427013 da FAQ?


 hmm?


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## budbro18 (May 26, 2015)

You can pull back the sleeve of the xlr/end of coil to see that everything is. Usually you can unscrew the XLR and basically take all the side shit off except the actual plug. Not sure if this was mentioned when you guys were talking about the pin outs of the different coils.

After that you can deduce what the wires are. 

There will be 2 of the same color. Usually grey or white. Those are Coil power. Either work for either +/-

A red and a black that are super thin gauge. Those will be the thermocouple leads.

And one green or yellow or "ground colored" haha. Obviously your ground. 

Hope this helped!


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## schonwandabs (May 26, 2015)

budbro18 said:


> You can pull back the sleeve of the xlr/end of coil to see that everything is. Usually you can unscrew the XLR and basically take all the side shit off except the actual plug. Not sure if this was mentioned when you guys were talking about the pin outs of the different coils.
> 
> After that you can deduce what the wires are.
> 
> ...


 That is ok to tell this coil diagram also, as red and black usually for the TC+ and TC-, Ground wire is the grounded colors

AC power wires are the same color usually


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## MR Zulu (May 26, 2015)

I guess I have confused you guys , I have my plug wired right, I just wanted to know about the Omron RX series and if I can bypass the SSR. I have no idea how or why a price was mentioned as well.


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## schonwandabs (May 26, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> I guess I have confused you guys , I have my plug wired right, I just wanted to know about the Omron RX series and if I can bypass the SSR. I have no idea how or why a price was mentioned as well.


 Brett, You got the wrong model, the model you get is not for SSR


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## schonwandabs (May 26, 2015)

SSR is the direct currency relay, So you need to tell + and -, If possible, you can buy a relay again, but remember, that is not SSR


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## MR Zulu (May 26, 2015)

schonwandabs said:


> Brett, You got the wrong model, the model you get is not for SSR


. I don't have one , it was just a question about the RX series. That's all.


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## schonwandabs (May 26, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> . I don't have one , it was just a question about the RX series. That's all.


Ok, You can not bypsss the RX service with a SSR


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## schonwandabs (May 27, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> . I don't have one , it was just a question about the RX series. That's all.


 RX Ormmon to Relay while QX Ormon to SSR


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## schonwandabs (May 29, 2015)

Hey, some enails finished


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## MR Zulu (May 30, 2015)

schonwandabs said:


> what do the two big enail boxes look like on the end?


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## schonwandabs (Jun 1, 2015)

Some of the 1.5M coil wire finished


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## MR Zulu (Jun 1, 2015)

schonwandabs said:


> Some of the 1.5M coil wire finished


wow those are some long cables, hook it up


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## DrGreenLeaf (Jun 1, 2015)

schonwandabs said:


> Some of the 1.5M coil wire finished



Except they need male xlr end.... at least for my setup. Looks like a "dnail " coil.....

Sent from my SGH-T399N using Rollitup mobile app


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## schonwandabs (Jun 1, 2015)

DrGreenLeaf said:


> Except they need male xlr end.... at least for my setup. Looks like a "dnail " coil.....
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T399N using Rollitup mobile app


 Yes, we make that too, different styles


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## schonwandabs (Jun 1, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> wow those are some long cables, hook it up


 1.5 Meters


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## fatalflowers (Jun 24, 2015)

budbro18 said:


> Yup thats what the PID stands for Proportional, Integral, Derivative
> 
> From my understanding its like a wave on an oscilloscope. You want it to be nice and even after the start up point. The X amount of power put in every X amount of time should directly line up with the rate at which the heating element cools/heats. Too strong and the coil will overshoot its designated temp and prematurely ware itself out, too low and the coil will drop temps really easily and struggle staying at the temps you want.
> 
> ...


Don't suppose you could post the equation and the numbers you need to plug into the equation. I'll have a go at the maths for you.


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## budbro18 (Jun 24, 2015)

*PID controller theory[edit]*
_This section describes the parallel or non-interacting form of the PID controller. For other forms please see the section Alternative nomenclature and PID forms._
The PID control scheme is named after its three correcting terms, whose sum constitutes the manipulated variable (MV). The proportional, integral, and derivative terms are summed to calculate the output of the PID controller. Defining




as the controller output, the final form of the PID algorithm is:






where





: Proportional gain, a tuning parameter




: Integral gain, a tuning parameter




: Derivative gain, a tuning parameter




: Error









: Time or instantaneous time (the present)




: Variable of integration; takes on values from time 0 to the present




.
Equivalently, the transfer function in the Laplace Domain of the PID controller is






where





: complex number frequency
*Proportional term[edit]*

Plot of PV vs time, for three values of Kp(Ki and Kd held constant)
The proportional term produces an output value that is proportional to the current error value. The proportional response can be adjusted by multiplying the error by a constant _Kp_, called the proportional gain constant.

The proportional term is given by:






A high proportional gain results in a large change in the output for a given change in the error. If the proportional gain is too high, the system can become unstable (see the section on loop tuning). In contrast, a small gain results in a small output response to a large input error, and a less responsive or less sensitive controller. If the proportional gain is too low, the control action may be too small when responding to system disturbances. Tuning theory and industrial practice indicate that the proportional term should contribute the bulk of the output change.[_citation needed_]

*Integral term[edit]*

Plot of PV vs time, for three values of Ki(Kp and Kd held constant)
The contribution from the integral term is proportional to both the magnitude of the error and the duration of the error. The integral in a PID controller is the sum of the instantaneous error over time and gives the accumulated offset that should have been corrected previously. The accumulated error is then multiplied by the integral gain (




) and added to the controller output.

The integral term is given by:






The integral term accelerates the movement of the process towards setpoint and eliminates the residual steady-state error that occurs with a pure proportional controller. However, since the integral term responds to accumulated errors from the past, it can cause the present value to overshoot the setpoint value (see the section on loop tuning).

*Derivative term[edit]*

Plot of PV vs time, for three values of Kd(Kp and Ki held constant)
The derivative of the process error is calculated by determining the slope of the error over time and multiplying this rate of change by the derivative gain _Kd_. The magnitude of the contribution of the derivative term to the overall control action is termed the derivative gain, _Kd_.

The derivative term is given by:






Derivative action predicts system behavior and thus improves settling time and stability of the system.[10][11] An ideal derivative is not causal, so that implementations of PID controllers include an additional low pass filtering for the derivative term, to limit the high frequency gain and noise.[12] Derivative action is seldom used in practice though - by one estimate in only 20% of deployed controllers[12] - because of its variable impact on system stability in real-world applications.


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## fatalflowers (Jun 24, 2015)

Blimey going to have to brush up on the maths skills it's been a while. Cheers for posting this budbro. I'll post up the numbers as soon as I'm done. probably be a couple of days as definitely going to have to relearn some maths. It's been about 8 years since I did any maths like this. But I'll get there don't worry. be happy.


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## schonwandabs (Jun 25, 2015)

I ever talked to our PID controller man, he said that too, But too professional. Easily it has something to do with the date you set for P(Proportional Band) I( Integral timer) D( Derivative Time)


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## fatalflowers (Jun 25, 2015)

Hi Budbro do you have any values you'd like me to plug in to the equation? or are the ones on the graphs your values?
Can definitely see why you had problems working this out. I have, no I did have a good understanding of the calculus maths involved ie integration, differentiation but that equation is well mind boggling I will get there eventually. So what temperature is your ideal set temp? Any other numbers you could give me would be helpful too. Also just learnt there are 3 different types of pid algorithms used so also depends on the algorithm your controller uses. Do you know which one yours is. Should say in the manual. 
There are 3 different types of PID algorithm


Ideal (also called "ISA")
Series (also called "series" or "interacting" or "analog" or "classical")
Parallel (also called "non-interacting", "independent" and "gain independent)


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## yodabuds (Jun 25, 2015)

@schon


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## schonwandabs (Jun 30, 2015)

yodabuds said:


> @schon


 me?


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## fatalflowers (Jul 1, 2015)

Hi still relearning calculus. But could do with the preferred temperature you like it set to and if you've had it running how long it took to get there. (I think). But I will get there. Will post something soon as I've learnt everything needed and have the numbers.


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## fatalflowers (Jul 1, 2015)

Although it looks like budbros' auto method worked very well and I'm not sure how much better actually using the pid equation would be if any better at all.


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## Daniel710 (Jul 6, 2015)

Need sone help I have power temperature but it stops at 89 and I tried to put it in auto tune to see if it would help but I let it go for about five hours and never stopped blinking so if any one has any suggestions that would be great?


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## MR Zulu (Jul 6, 2015)

Daniel710 said:


> Need sone help I have power temperature but it stops at 89 and I tried to put it in auto tune to see if it would help but I let it go for about five hours and never stopped blinking so if any one has any suggestions that would be great?


what PID are you using? What's the Volt & Watt rating for your coil?


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## MR Zulu (Jul 6, 2015)

Daniel710 said:


> Need sone help I have power temperature but it stops at 89 and I tried to put it in auto tune to see if it would help but I let it go for about five hours and never stopped blinking so if any one has any suggestions that would be great?


personally it sounds like you have your TC and power mixed up. "I have done that before and had the same exact outcome" ...... just a reminder though...... Auto tuning should NEVR take more than a few hours depending upon what you have plugged into your PID but we all are using relatively small coils and should only take a hour tops , also make sure no fans or central heating and cooling systems are on in the room you plan doing your auto tuning in, it can throw off the auto tunes algorithms and your life of your coil could potentially be shortened.


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## Daniel710 (Jul 6, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> what PID are you using? What's the Volt & Watt rating for your coil?


I'm using a Auber pid with a 120v-200w-k coil. And the outlet thing is the ssr light is not on.


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## Daniel710 (Jul 6, 2015)

Daniel710 said:


> I'm using a Auber pid with a 120v-200w-k coil. And the other thing is the ssr light is not on.


Other


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## MR Zulu (Jul 7, 2015)

Daniel710 said:


> Other


yeah check your TC- and TC+ and that they aren't mixed up with your two power wires (note: You don't have to worry about - , + on your coil power to the coil itself. But make sure your TC- & TC+ don't get mixed up, won't get a proper temperature reading and will burn out coil.) it's what it sounds like, can you see a very dim lit light on ssr if you look closely, or in the dark? If so your just pumping 12v into it and that means you got a few wires mixed up. but I'm certain that you have done a redundancy test of all connections? I.e. No lose or crossed wires.


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## Daniel710 (Jul 7, 2015)

I went over every thing and everything is correct besides no light on the ssr and this is a new ssr so could it just be the ssr?


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## gk skunky (Jul 7, 2015)

How much are these diy setups costing you?


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## MR Zulu (Jul 7, 2015)

gk skunky said:


> How much are these diy setups costing you?


depends upon what you want to go to one... The cheapest one I have made is $60 (all cheap discount parts) you can wip a analog nail together for about $50


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## MR Zulu (Jul 7, 2015)

Daniel710 said:


> I went over every thing and everything is correct besides no light on the ssr and this is a new ssr so could it just be the ssr?


it could be... Do you know how to test one?


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## gk skunky (Jul 7, 2015)

Damn not bad. Just figured I'd ask. I bought a cheapo kit off Amazon for $135 with Ti nail. Gonna see how this works but if it fails I'll look into this much closer.


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## MR Zulu (Jul 8, 2015)

gk skunky said:


> Damn not bad. Just figured I'd ask. I bought a cheapo kit off Amazon for $135 with Ti nail. Gonna see how this works but if it fails I'll look into this much closer.


you could upgrade parts if it doesn't stand up to your expectations.


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## Daniel710 (Jul 8, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> it could be... Do you know how to test one?


No I do not how can I test it to make sure it works?


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## MR Zulu (Jul 8, 2015)

Daniel710 said:


> No I do not how can I test it to make sure it works?


use a 9v battery to trigger the ssr , use ssr to control a fan or lamp.

""( WHAT EVER YOU DO DO NOT CONTROL YOUR COIL!!! IT WILL PUMP A UNFILTERED 120V INTO IT AND FRY IT IN SECONDS!!!!!)"""

Almost certain that you may find a walkthrough or something similar on YouTube , but that's how I test my ssr's. ( also do you have the correct rating of SSR? Just have to ask, I have seen a person try and use a 5V 2Amp SSR, a Output of 24V-380V 25A SSR-25DA is more than enough, a 40DA 90v-380v will work as well.)


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## Daniel710 (Jul 8, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> use a 9v battery to trigger the ssr , use ssr to control a fan or lamp.
> 
> ""( WHAT EVER YOU DO DO NOT CONTROL YOUR COIL!!! IT WILL PUMP A UNFILTERED 120V INTO IT AND FRY IT IN SECONDS!!!!!)"""
> 
> Almost certain that you may find a walkthrough or something similar on YouTube , but that's how I test my ssr's. ( also do you have the correct rating of SSR? Just have to ask, I have seen a person try and use a 5V 2Amp SSR, a Output of 24V-380V 25A SSR-25DA is more than enough, a 40DA 90v-380v will work as well.)


Well I'll try to do a test but they should be good it's brand new and I have tired two separate ones and still no light on the ssr. Here is a pic of the wiring maybe you can point out what I did wrong (note the colored heat shrink isn't color coded) if you can find something I did wrong that would be great because I had to of done something wrong thanks. Also my coil wiring is 
Pin1=AC Power 
Pin2= Tc + 
Pin3=AC power 
Pin 4 = Tc-
Pin5= Ground wire
Also the same for the female part.


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## MR Zulu (Jul 8, 2015)

Daniel710 said:


> Well I'll try to do a test but they should be good it's brand new and I have tired two separate ones and still no light on the ssr. Here is a pic of the wiring maybe you can point out what I did wrong (note the colored heat shrink isn't color coded) if you can find something I did wrong that would be great because I had to of done something wrong thanks. Also my coil wiring is
> Pin1=AC Power
> Pin2= Tc +
> Pin3=AC power
> ...


where did you get the wiring diagram for your coil from? The first thing that struck me as odd is that the power is split up like that in the pin-out. When I get home I'm going to look over your pictures more. I'm at work at the moment still, but ill let you know more when I finally crawl out of these tanks later.


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## Daniel710 (Jul 8, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> where did you get the wiring diagram for your coil from? The first thing that struck me as odd is that the power is split up like that in the pin-out. When I get home I'm going to look over your pictures more. I'm at work at the moment still, but ill let you know more when I finally crawl out of these tanks later.


Thanks man and yea it was odd to me as well I had them together then I bought a coil and turns out he wiring was difftnent so I just changed my wiring to match the coils wiring.


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## MR Zulu (Jul 8, 2015)

what's the model of Auber you have?


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## Daniel710 (Jul 8, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> what's the model of Auber you have?


The pid model is syl-1512a2 
And the ssr is mgr-1 D4825


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## MR Zulu (Jul 9, 2015)

Okay


Daniel710 said:


> The pid model is syl-1512a2
> And the ssr is mgr-1 D4825


 okay is it in PID mode and not on/off mode? And if it is in PID mode then have you ran auto tune? And why didn't you ground the PID?


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## Daniel710 (Jul 9, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> Okay
> okay is it in PID mode and not on/off mode? And if it is in PID mode then have you ran auto tune?


To tell you the truth I have no clue if it's in PID mode, this is my first build and I'm a bit of a Ricky on something's. But I tried to run auto tune but after a couple hours of not getting above 89 I called it quits. How do I know if it's in pid mode and not on/off mode?


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## MR Zulu (Jul 9, 2015)

Daniel710 said:


> To tell you the truth I have no clue if it's in PID mode, this is my first build and I'm a bit of a Ricky on something's. But I tried to run auto tune but after a couple hours of not getting above 89 I called it quits. How do I know if it's in pid mode and not on/off mode?


http://auberins.com/images/Manual/SYL-1512A2instruction 1.0.pdf


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## Daniel710 (Jul 9, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> http://auberins.com/images/Manual/SYL-1512A2instruction 1.0.pdf


Haha yea that's what I was going threw and I think I found it I adjusted a 1 to a 2 and the ssr light when on and my nail started hearing up real fast got real red so I turned it off so I think I'm on the right track now.


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## MR Zulu (Jul 9, 2015)

Daniel710 said:


> Haha yea that's what I was going threw and I think I found it I adjusted a 1 to a 2 and the ssr light when on and my nail started hearing up real fast got real red so I turned it off so I think I'm on the right track now.


yes, now you need to set the SV set value , auto tune and set a max temp. I set mine to 808 , maybe not in that order the instructions should be able to get you to a fully functional machine. This is why I love the Omron E5CC it takes alot of the guess work out of alot of shat. But they come with a heavy price tag... $45-$120.... But they are the only one who offers the LCD screen and have cat5 communications options i.e. control temperature over GUI on cell phone via Bluetooth or internet connection


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## gk skunky (Jul 9, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> yes, now you need to set the SV set value , auto tune and set a max temp. I set mine to 808 , maybe not in that order the instructions should be able to get you to a fully functional machine. This is why I love the Omron E5CC it takes alot of the guess work out of alot of shat. But they come with a heavy price tag... $45-$120.... But they are the only one who offers the LCD screen and have cat5 communications options i.e. control temperature over GUI on cell phone via Bluetooth or internet connection


What!!!!!??? So you could use you're phone essentially as a remote? As far as adjusting temp anyways? No on/off capabilities though right?


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## Daniel710 (Jul 10, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> yes, now you need to set the SV set value , auto tune and set a max temp. I set mine to 808 , maybe not in that order the instructions should be able to get you to a fully functional machine. This is why I love the Omron E5CC it takes alot of the guess work out of alot of shat. But they come with a heavy price tag... $45-$120.... But they are the only one who offers the LCD screen and have cat5 communications options i.e. control temperature over GUI on cell phone via Bluetooth or internet connection


Yea man thanks for the help I appreciate I'll have to look in to one of those on my next build they sound like there the shit thanks again.


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## MR Zulu (Jul 10, 2015)

gk skunky said:


> What!!!!!??? So you could use you're phone essentially as a remote? As far as adjusting temp anyways? No on/off capabilities though right?


on and off to an extent... The unit doesn't power down it just stops the flow of electricity to your coil.... ( I get around the corner from home and turn it on, by the time I get inside and de-shoe its been ready and at temp for a several mins ) now if I can just get something to get my dab ready too I'd be fuckin set lol


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## Chivochino (Jul 20, 2015)

has anyone used the enails that auber has already made? they have ones starting as low as $85 i was surprised to see. Since you liked their PID controller for your DIY how do you think or is their anyone who has had any experience with their enails. 

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=45&products_id=484

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=45&products_id=429


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## fatalflowers (Aug 14, 2015)

budbro18 said:


> i dont but someone on this thread does. And IMO go with 20mm unless you already have/plan to put it on the highly educated enail adapter.
> 
> Were gonna have a lot of quartz nails for reasonable prices soon and the 16mm nails are just so small and the 20mm cost the same. just my 2 cents.


Definitely have to agree on this as got sent the wrong size coil have a 20mm nail but only 16mm coil and those 4mm seem to make a big difference especially if your aim is a bit off.


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## MR Zulu (Aug 14, 2015)

I see that you did not ground wire is not connected to your PID!


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## LiquidJunglist (Aug 17, 2015)

Has anyone figured out the duel coil enail yet? Where you run 2 coils off one PID?

I've seen quite a few people selling them and using them to make some cool rosin tech presses.

http://medisunfarms.bigcartel.com

Just curious? I should be finishing my Peli-Nail soon.. YAY.

I have a DC Enail also just have to get a battery, a LiFePO4 one.


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## LiquidJunglist (Aug 17, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> on and off to an extent... The unit doesn't power down it just stops the flow of electricity to your coil.... ( I get around the corner from home and turn it on, by the time I get inside and de-shoe its been ready and at temp for a several mins ) now if I can just get something to get my dab ready too I'd be fuckin set lol


SICK!!!


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## MR Zulu (Aug 22, 2015)

Ld definitely involved
wou


LiquidJunglist said:


> Has anyone figured out the duel coil enail yet? Where you run 2 coils off one PID?
> 
> I've seen quite a few people selling them and using them to make some cool rosin tech presses.
> 
> ...


would definitely involve 2 SSRs.... Would recommend running 220 instead of 110


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## LiquidJunglist (Aug 22, 2015)

MR Zulu said:


> Ld definitely involved
> wou
> 
> 
> would definitely involve 2 SSRs.... Would recommend running 220 instead of 110


But does that mean i can still plug it into my wall? The one they have on there site plugs into the wall but i think he is getting Hammerd Enails to make them for him.

http://hammerdenails.bigcartel.com/product/enail-with-dual-coils

Ive been kinda interested in the evolution of the rosin tech.

I can't do the big boy Pneumatic Press. But i can make 2 enails. ^_^

http://rosintechnologies.com/rosin-technologies-pneumatic-rosin-press-pre-order.html

Im looking at a 2 Ton Arbor Shop Press Northern. I could just run two enails but i would be much easier to just have a duel coil unit.


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## LiquidJunglist (Aug 22, 2015)

Im going to contact the engineer at Arber on monday about it.


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## budbro18 (Aug 24, 2015)

Im working on making a DIY rosin press. My girl just got a new straightener so the old one is officially mine. Lowest temp is 160 and my IR says it bounces between 165-175 and doesnt really go over except at the beginning.

The crazy thing is im pretty sure theres an actual thermocouple and i think i can piggy back onto it with a PID controller and SSR and possibly have a pretty accurate rosin press. Theres also a little potentiometer right next to the suspected TC (thermocouple) connections. 

Already disassembled it completely and am trying to find the best vice to mount it to. Debating one of those table vices or the hand held ones usually used to hold wood together while waiting for the glue to dry.


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## LiquidJunglist (Aug 24, 2015)

budbro18 said:


> Im working on making a DIY rosin press. My girl just got a new straightener so the old one is officially mine. Lowest temp is 160 and my IR says it bounces between 165-175 and doesnt really go over except at the beginning.
> 
> The crazy thing is im pretty sure theres an actual thermocouple and i think i can piggy back onto it with a PID controller and SSR and possibly have a pretty accurate rosin press. Theres also a little potentiometer right next to the suspected TC (thermocouple) connections.
> 
> Already disassembled it completely and am trying to find the best vice to mount it to. Debating one of those table vices or the hand held ones usually used to hold wood together while waiting for the glue to dry.


Your always crafty sir. LOL I think i have seen someone else do the same with taking about the Hair Straightener apart and making a press i forgot where i saw it.... if i see they IG user I'll post it on here for ya.

Did you check out my post above about the duel coil enail? Im thinking of buying those Heat Pressing Dies from Medisun Farms. I can get a 3 Ton Arbor Press from Northern for $199.99 and Harbor Freight has a 1 Ton for $49.99. so the options are there i just need to figure out the duel coil enail so i can just get the Dies from him and make the rest.

HELP ^_^


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## LiquidJunglist (Aug 26, 2015)

So i did get a email back from the Auber Engineer.... You guys are going to be very happy ^_^

_Do you know if the two coils can have different set temperature? If they can, I don't know how they did it. But if both coil have the same temperature, then, they might just paralleled them together. The risk is that if one coil failed by thermocouple shorted, the other will get damaged also._
_Regards,_
_Suyi_

_You cannot change the temperature of the coils individually. Both coils have the same temperature. So you're saying I can just wire them on the same SSR?_​_One SSR should be fine as long as the capacity is ok. I think two SSRs may be a little safer. You need to wire both thermocouple to the controller. The reading is a average of two. They might not be identical, but very close.
_​So i think were good with just having two SSRs and wiring it to the TC control location on the back of the PID. Remember i have very little electical experience so I'm just going on a idea not a pro or even a full amateur yet.

As i talk to them about a Rosin Press they said they might look into making them since the tech is a lot of what they already make. Cant wait to try to make a Dual coil Pelican Nail MWWWWAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA in my best Mad Scientist Laugh.


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## budbro18 (Aug 26, 2015)

LiquidJunglist said:


> Your always crafty sir. LOL I think i have seen someone else do the same with taking about the Hair Straightener apart and making a press i forgot where i saw it.... if i see they IG user I'll post it on here for ya.
> 
> Did you check out my post above about the duel coil enail? Im thinking of buying those Heat Pressing Dies from Medisun Farms. I can get a 3 Ton Arbor Press from Northern for $199.99 and Harbor Freight has a 1 Ton for $49.99. so the options are there i just need to figure out the duel coil enail so i can just get the Dies from him and make the rest.
> 
> HELP ^_^



Hell yeah ive seen a few people and it always seemed easiest to just use 2 pids and 2 SSRs but you could def go one. 

As for the rosin press ive seen a few too but no real "diy build videos" how to actually assemble them. 

Much like why i made this thread there were several places that had a handful of pictures with a written explanation, and i wanted to do a more indepth/discussion based thread to more accurately deal with all the different equipment we could use.

Good luck with the enail adventures! Ill post the link to the other thread when i start making it!


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## Terpinmyerrl (Jan 25, 2016)

All wired up and can't get Celsius to Fahrenheit need help setting up setting please help thanks much


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## MR Zulu (Jan 26, 2016)

Terpinmyerrl said:


> All wired up and can't get Celsius to Fahrenheit need help setting up setting please help thanks much


Look at the instructions that came with it. It shows how on that little folded piece of paper that unfolds into a huge piece of paper..... One side is English..... Did yours come with it?


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## Terpinmyerrl (Jan 26, 2016)

Yea they were in French, Chn, and jpn. Damn gibberish to me


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## MR Zulu (Jan 26, 2016)

Terpinmyerrl said:


> Yea they were in French, Chn, and jpn. Damn gibberish to me


If you look back in one of my posts on this thread I think I may have permalinked the PDF version. I'm at work at the moment so I do t have time to go through all the pages, but look back or go to Omron's web site and look up the E5CC ver. 1.2 I believe.


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## Terpinmyerrl (Jan 26, 2016)

MR Zulu said:


> If you look back in one of my posts on this thread I think I may have permalinked the PDF version. I'm at work at the moment so I do t have time to go through all the pages, but look back or go to Omron's web site and look up the E5CC ver. 1.2 I believe.


http://www.miel.si/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/E5CC-Getting-Started-Guide.pdf This one? I followed that one to get me to where I am now.. Email me plz brother [email protected]


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## Terpinmyerrl (Jan 28, 2016)

DrGreenLeaf said:


> OK, that's pretty much what I figured. Thought I read in the auber instructions could use 20AWG for everything on the pid side of the SSR. The output of the SSR, which actually powers the coil needs to be gauged according to the load. Makes sense, and can obviously save $$ and will take up less space.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T399N using Rollitup mobile app


Hey bud, I used 18g wire all the way around, and I can't get my ssr light to light up and coil is reading ambient temp 76.. Do I need to change some wires for different gauges?


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## idabidabido (Feb 10, 2016)

I got enail unit with xmtg-9000 pid 6month ago. It says xtmg-7601 inside. I somehow reset the pid settings and those listed here aren't working well. overshoot. The unit use to be very good about maintaining temps and not overshooting. Now i set it to 720f it overshoots to 760f and cools down to 690f before reheating. Does anyone know what the settings are for these pids? They have al1, al2, P6,P,I,D,Hr,Ar,LCY settings. Thanks in advance


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## RCC Tools (May 27, 2016)

idabidabido said:


> I got enail unit with xmtg-9000 pid 6month ago. It says xtmg-7601 inside. I somehow reset the pid settings and those listed here aren't working well. overshoot. The unit use to be very good about maintaining temps and not overshooting. Now i set it to 720f it overshoots to 760f and cools down to 690f before reheating. Does anyone know what the settings are for these pids? They have al1, al2, P6,P,I,D,Hr,Ar,LCY settings. Thanks in advance


I use the smaller PID, but the ranges are usually something like P=5, I=100, D=20....that has been the most common default and I have used a few different models and also different manufacturers of those models. This also matches a few posts I have seen, and may work for your model as well. I have tried lowering the P=value on a model that had 30 degree overshoot and it seemed to lower it. Also I think I raised the D value up to maybe 40-ish...good luck


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## qballizhere (May 30, 2016)

Here is a few pics of a prototype 7 inch touch screen enail with wifi bluetooth I will also be making a custom rig with leds that will be controlled by the main unit 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bfmwx7olsway2bi/20160202_114527.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/z46nodqew6tj8ix/20160210_161011.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/dhgl3am0sqhj30n/20160202_114535.jpg?dl=0


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## KidYummyDonuts (Jun 4, 2016)

Hey all. Newly signed up but have been lurking for a while.
What.A.Thread.

So we built a couple prototypes of our own using the omron E5CC. Works great, been using the pictured guy for a couple months now. Ordered and are building 100 of em. Pics below. We're including a 6 in 1 Ti male/female nail if curious.

The main thing I wanted to really want get sorted was the grounding believe it or not. I've the ground from the jack going to my coil and that's it.

Over multiple conversations I've been told I need to ground the PID, something I couldn't find mentioned in the instructions that came with it, or the ssr, or to the aluminum box or all. No problem doing any of it, I'd just like the understanding first.

Also! Mr Zulu, I'm dying to find out how you set up remote power control with the omron. Brilliant stuff.

Any help is appreciated. These things are sold for such ludicrous money while being relatively cheap to make while still keeping a slick look. Fuck eerybody out there selling em for $400+. Just raping us dabbers until we all smarten up.


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## RCC Tools (Jan 22, 2017)

KidYummyDonuts said:


> View attachment 3700044 Hey all. Newly signed up but have been lurking for a while.
> What.A.Thread.
> 
> So we built a couple prototypes of our own using the omron E5CC. Works great, been using the pictured guy for a couple months now. Ordered and are building 100 of em. Pics below. We're including a 6 in 1 Ti male/female nail if curious.
> ...



Looks slick! Do you know what the electrical symbol is for ground? If not, Google it and connect the ground terminal from the power receptacle, for sure. It is not necessary to ground the SSR, since the DC power activating the SSR is very low wattage, and the other end would be covered by the coil's ground, since it would be in the same circuit when the SSR is closed. Grounding the case might be a good idea if you are using metal, but if the hot wires are all secure like they should be there should be no need.


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## Erik Torres (Mar 23, 2017)

budbro18 said:


> haha i feel ya. In that case youre better off boltin everything to your table, rig included. Theres not a nail i can find, except the ceramic one above, that has any type of protector sleeve on it.
> 
> Were workin on gettin the flat coils which will greatly diminish the exposed surface area of the coil but thats the best chance youd have as of now.
> 
> Theres a few brands that copied HE like dabjoy that make something like a protector sleeve thing around it. ive been lookin for a ceramic sleeve to go around it but even that would heat up just as hot as teh coil/nail either way.


 mothership bangers work as well


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