# Advanced Autoflower Training, tips, secrets



## Jeffdogg (May 10, 2013)

This thread is intended to help others and learn as well. Over the past 4-5+ years theres been great improvements on the genetics for autoflowers, and more and more people everyday
are growing them. Think you know a good tip? Have a special way to Train/LST auto's? Whats your feeding schedule? What nutes do you prefer and why? Theres lots of variables as well as
trial and error, we dont always have to error to learn from them. For those of us who like to read anyway  ...

I'm new to the AF's just ordered a couple AutoXtreme from Dutch Passion, was gonna go for the AutoMazar but something told me to go with the Xtreme 

Theres lots of info around about AF's but the AF forum dont have a sticky yet and this could make a great one if we contribute and show it can be a plethora of information for all to read and learn from . 
I'll be quoting other things i've read on the forums that I think will be a good contribution and will give credit to whom I read it from.


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## Fenian Brotherhood (May 10, 2013)

Awesome 


I'll start.


Never Transplant!!! Start off in the harvesting pot 3Gallon+

You Could!! Cut off the bottom to a party cup, an when the roots come out the bottom just put the Cup in the bigger Pot.
20/4 hours is the best(Depending on Strain) If you really want to Find out what is best, Start with 24/7 then the next batch, use 20/4 and see how that goes...


I have alot more, I'll be back later :smoke:


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## tekdc911 (May 10, 2013)

I'll back him with one exception. If you "KNOW" really know how to transplant they dont miss a beat. If your a noob let it be. 


Soil is more important then lighting. 
Auto's have funny tap roots and until you grow one you probably wont understand. They have a tap like normal but its short and stubby usually grows to a 45 at one side. When you hear people say that they veg until the tap hits .... Well this statement is partially right but for the actual tap root to hit. Then you would have to have a shallow pot like 5 inches. Ruderalis has adapted to harsh conditions like permafrost layers that are very thin so to survive it evolved to grow multiple large sideways roots. (Notice the empty spot under the stalk I grabbed it by the stalk and shook it just to elaborate) Now the veg until they hit applies to these from my experience. I have pots that hold the same volume but some are tall and thin. But for some reason the square wide shallow ones always veg longer. This is why they have more reach. 
Auto's growth will stop if over watered the easiest indoor mix i have found is a good organic indoor potting mix in ratio of 50/50 mixed with perlite. This promotes really good drainage which auto's love. try and steer clear of time released ferts to easy to burn your plants when using nutes.

For the feed/nutes even with 50% perlite a good soil will more then support a auto for 3-4 weeks. I have finished many nice plants with this mix only using water 
best results were from using nutes 1/4 str at first then build up slowly. 
I introduce veg nutes at show of preflower roughly 3-4 weeks. If your going to feed every watering then leave nutes at 1/4 str there is not much veg after this 2-3 weeks so these feeds need to be under max dose other wise a burn will greatly reduce yields at this point. 
Preflower is not the sign to switch to bloom nutes unless you want a fast low yielding auto. If this is so then there is no need for veg nutes you want the N to diminish. 
When the tell tale popcorns of hairs start to pop up over night. I use just water for 1-2 weeks depends on str of nutes i used in veg this just helps with nute build up and helps deter problems later on. Bloom nutes 1/4 str and build up 
few auto's actually run for 8 weeks. i assume when i am growing a new strain 10 weeks have had them take aslong as 14. 
I have topped and if its within the first couple sets of nodes then it actually helps i pull a 1/4 ounce more from my 1 oz strains 
really it just relocates bud sites honestly extra weight is probably just stem weight but the scales dont lie. 
Lst they love it absolutely love it SCROG remember this word if your on your first auto grow or a grow using led or cfl its a god send. For hid's this is the money maker in the right setup easily two to three times yield.
Auto's need no schedule when it comes to lighting common misconception is that a auto needs a dark period a true auto needs no such thing.They will run pedal to the metal start to finish under the right conditions. You may need a dark period for temps or your pocket book , If the breeder calls for a dark period its for the desired bud structure but commonly its the fact that they know that if you run 24/7 that the plant is no where near small or stealthy Dinafem white widow auto for example up until a year or so ago growers were advised to put it on 12/12 to bring out the best of this strain that was the claim anyway . But put them on 24 hrs and there 3' tall with a few weeks of veg left. 

"cut cure smoke" <~~~~~ this is the autoflower section not gonna explain that one


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## tekdc911 (May 10, 2013)

*

haloman420 





StonerMr. Ganja
































Join DateMay 2009
LocationThe sunshine statePosts1,167

[h=2]




How To Produce Feminized Seeds.[/h]
I found this article online and found it to be interesting so I thought t I would share. 
Creating feminized marijuana seeds is an art, there are a few different methods of application. I have written about some of my different methods of making cannabis seeds in previous HIGH TIMES articles. I have use gibberellic acid, light stress, ph stress, and fertilizer stress to force my plants to make marijuanaseeds.
All these methods are harsh on the plants, and some like the gibbrellic acid, are not organic. In my search for cleaner more earth-friendly ways of working with the cannabis plant, I have found a new way to makefeminized cannabis seeds.Feminized seeds occur as a result of stress, other than genetics. All cannabis plants can and will make male flowers under stress. Certain strains like a higher PH, some like a lower one. Some like a lot of food, some like a lot less.
There is quite a lot of variety in marijuana genetics, and you cant treat every plant the same way.It takes many harvests before you really get to know a particular strain. Just like getting to know human friends, it takes time. I have grown strains for a decade and am truly getting to know every nuance the different plants exhibit. I can recognize them from a distance. I must say that I get a lot of help from my friends, both in making marijuana seeds and learning new and better ways of working with this sacred plant.
I named this new method Rodelization after a friend who helped me realize and make use of this way of creating female cannabis seeds. After growing crop after crop of the same plant in the same conditions, I noticed that if I flowered the plants 10-14 days longer than usual, they would develop male bananas. A male banana is a very slight male flower on a femalemarijuana plant that is formed because of stress. Usually they do not let out any pollen early enough tomake marijuana seeds, but they sometimes do. They are a built in safety factor so in case of sever conditions, the plant can make sure that the species is furthered.
To me a male banana is quite a beautiful thing. It has the potential of making all female pot seeds. Many growers out there have male banana phobia. They see one and have heart palpitations, they want to cut down the entire crop or at least take tweezers and pluck the little yellow emerging devices out. I call them Emergency Devices because they emerge at times of stress.In the Rodelization method, the male banana is very valuable. After growing your female plant 10-14 days longer than usual, hang them up to dry, then carefully take them off the drying lines and inspect for bananas. Each and every banana should be removed and placed in a small bag labeled very accurately. These sealed bags can be placed in the fridge for one to two months and still remain potent.
For the second phase you need to already have a crop thats already 2 ½ weeks into flowering. Take your sealed bag of pollen out of the fridge, and proceed toimpregnate your new crop of females. To do this, you must first match the female plant and the pollen from the same strain in the previous crop. Shut down all the fans in the grow room. Then take a very fine paint brush, dip it in the bag of pollen, and paint it on the female flower. Do this to each different strain you have growing together. I have done it with ten different kinds in the same room with great success.I use the lower flowers to make weed seeds, leaving the top colas seedless for smoking. This method takes time(two crops), but is completely organic and lets you have great quality smoke at the same time you make your female cannabis seeds. If youre one of those growers that has never grown marijuana seeds for fear of not having something good to smoke, you will love this method.You can also use this pollen to make new female crosses by cross pollinating. 
The older females with the bananas can be brought into the room with the younger, un-pollinated females when they are three weeks into flowering. Turn all of the circulation fans on high, and the little bits of pollen will proceed to make it around the room. Do this for several days. Six to seven weeks later you will have ripe 100% female seeds; not nearly as many as a male plant would make, but enough to start over somewhere else with the same genetics.As a farmer who has been forced to move his genetics far away from where they started, I know very well the value ofseeds. My friend Adam from THSeeds in Amsterdam has a motto that I love to borrow these days: Dropseeds not bombs.Soma.​


Like

You can pick frinds. You can pick ur nose. You cant pick a friends nose.




​


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## Jeffdogg (May 10, 2013)

tekdc911 said:


> *
> 
> haloman420
> 
> ...


I'm actually gonna be doing that with one of the seeds i got, gonna try gibberellic acid method, tyvm for this info!!


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## tekdc911 (May 10, 2013)

the trick is to get to know your strain your working with and how to tell what pheno is what early on then you herm your fav and let it self polinate it stabilizes and they become more cookie cutter / uniform almost clone like even


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## tekdc911 (May 10, 2013)

i like your signature by the way 
i stold a saying a long time ago 
" illegal is just a sick bird untill you get caught" reminded me of that lol good times


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## tekdc911 (May 11, 2013)

ok so i guess ill cover lighting since no one else has chimed in 

t-5 is enough to get decent yields 
spectrum is personal preference nowadays the requirement of a MH to keep from hermi'n has been bred out most are stable enough to not have problems 
personally i use blue spec but only at most 20-30 % is blue blue spec causes close nodes and shorter plants 
i prefer a red spec on a auto i have found it makes them reach a bit more and in turn light is allowed to penetrate easier, which if you want a good yield is the key to bumper harvests on a auto ofcourse the more light the better but i have grown full term with 1 68 watt 2700k cfl a plant and got good yields its all about lst 
and utilizing the light you have, being sure not to waste any


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## lilroach (May 11, 2013)

I don't know if I should post this on the sick plants blog or here....so I'll pick here because my issues are auto-specific.

I am a noob with two successful photo-period grows under my belt. I really like the idea of autos and purchased 5 Cream of the Crop KO's ( https://www.cannabis-seeds-bank.co.uk/cream-of-the-crop-ko-crop-auto/prod_3694.html ) and got one auto AK47 as a freebie.

I germed and planted the 3 seeds in either a 5 gal bucket, or a 5 gal smart pot....starting with the AK47. It popped like normal, and grew to about 1.5" and stopped.




Would you believe that this plant is 45 days old?

I figured that I did something wrong, or the seed was a dud, so I planted a COC KO and it too grew about 1.5" and stopped.



This plant hasn't changed in weeks.

I'm using Humbolt's organic mix, have 'em under T5's 18/6, have watered only when needed, and not until this past week did I give them a light dose of nutes hoping that it would help....it didn't.

What am I doing wrong?


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## marijuana2176 (May 11, 2013)

lilroach said:


> I don't know if I should post this on the sick plants blog or here....so I'll pick here because my issues are auto-specific.
> 
> I am a noob with two successful photo-period grows under my belt. I really like the idea of autos and purchased 5 Cream of the Crop KO's ( https://www.cannabis-seeds-bank.co.uk/cream-of-the-crop-ko-crop-auto/prod_3694.html ) and got one auto AK47 as a freebie.
> 
> ...


my guess would be dodgy seed. i've had slow ones but never that slow. i would ditch em and try something else to be honest.


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## tekdc911 (May 11, 2013)

if you read what i wrote earlier im sure you could figure it out 
its either too much water or nutes are to high most soils are to hot for baby auto's and at full strength can support a auto for the 3 months it takes to finish 
next try plant a jiffy pellet in your pot then plant the seed in it you wont have to water it for a while if the top of the soil looks wet then a inch down its soaked


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## tekdc911 (May 11, 2013)

i know it sounds like im setting you up for destruction but try not watering it for a week bet it shows new growth

5 gals is alot of soil my 3 gal pots in full bloom i only have to water every 2-3 days and i dont ever water more then a half gallon usually gallon i can water 3 plants in 3 gal pots full size plants that being said i usually only water maybe half a coffee cup every couple days on seedlings in a 3 gal and that is with out ever wetting the soil just the area the seed is planted and slowly work up


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## lilroach (May 11, 2013)

I think I may have my own answer....after penning my post on here I went down to check out the plants and instead of doing my "finger in the soil" method of checking to see if I had to give 'em water, I lifted the 5 gal bucket.....it weighed a TON! The friggin' Humbolt soil clogged all my drain-holes like it was made of clay. Here lies the difference between the happy frog and ocean forest I've used in the past and Humbolt's soil.

I drilled much bigger and many more drain-holes and did my best to bust up the globs of soil in the bottom half of my bucket (it was like rock). It may be too late for these seedlings, but you can bet that I'll never use this soil again and will happily pay more for Happy Frog or Ocean Forest.


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## tekdc911 (May 11, 2013)

lilroach said:


> I think I may have my own answer....after penning my post on here I went down to check out the plants and instead of doing my "finger in the soil" method of checking to see if I had to give 'em water, I lifted the 5 gal bucket.....it weighed a TON! The friggin' Humbolt soil clogged all my drain-holes like it was made of clay. Here lies the difference between the happy frog and ocean forest I've used in the past and Humbolt's soil.
> 
> I drilled much bigger and many more drain-holes and did my best to bust up the globs of soil in the bottom half of my bucket (it was like rock). It may be too late for these seedlings, but you can bet that I'll never use this soil again and will happily pay more for Happy Frog or Ocean Forest.


i use a 50/50 soil and perlite for a reason  my auto's get 3' under cfls
and really a bag of perlite is like 6 bucks and they require less nutes 1/2 - 3/4 strength is a strong dose so really they save you money


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## tekdc911 (May 11, 2013)

and brother i use garden soil from home depot the organic stuff with no time release ive used fox's soil and came to the conclusion that its comparable results from stuff i can get locally


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## Taviddude (May 12, 2013)

Don't run 12/12. 

BLAZE the with as much light as possible for at least 18 hours a day. 
Personally I say stay away from CFL unless you plant to really BLAZE them with a TON of watts and train your plants well.
Watts are watts and you may as well be using a 400 watt HPS if you're using 400 watts of Fluorescent. 
HPS will penetrate far better, give you heavy dense rock hard colas. No matter what you do with CFL you are going to get a lot fluffy bud.
Much of the Auto's prowess is in the fact that it can flower under 24/0 of light without reverting to veg. 
There are sativa dominant auto's that are finishing in 90 days from seed with bumper crops. 
Not possible with photo's. 

Blaze Them.


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## Jeffdogg (May 12, 2013)

lilroach said:


> I think I may have my own answer....after penning my post on here I went down to check out the plants and instead of doing my "finger in the soil" method of checking to see if I had to give 'em water, I lifted the 5 gal bucket.....it weighed a TON! The friggin' Humbolt soil clogged all my drain-holes like it was made of clay. Here lies the difference between the happy frog and ocean forest I've used in the past and Humbolt's soil.
> 
> I drilled much bigger and many more drain-holes and did my best to bust up the globs of soil in the bottom half of my bucket (it was like rock). It may be too late for these seedlings, but you can bet that I'll never use this soil again and will happily pay more for Happy Frog or Ocean Forest.


Dont use the finger method. You dont give them watering schedules, you schedule food but you water them when they need it not when a certain day of the week comes along or if the first few layers of soil is dry. When the pot is watered lift it up and see how heavy it is. Wait a few days till you see the leaves start to droop a little bit then lift the pot again and see how much lighter it got. IMHO thats a better standard for telling when your plant needs water instead of using the finger test. You keep too much water in your soil it hinders their growth.


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## tekdc911 (May 12, 2013)

really being consistent is the key 
baby steps find something that works 
a good grow is like a combination on a safe 

make small changes to your system nutes soil ect. 
unless it just not working 
then big changes one at a time until problem is solved if you have a good memory then your ahead of the game 
if not take notes 
research research research cant say it enough 
know i mean really know what your plant needs there are step by step grow guides but what good does that do you really if you change strains ?
or pop a nute sensitive pheno


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## Jeffdogg (May 12, 2013)

Hopefully you also flushed it her with several gallons of water, if those holes clogged up bet ya got some salt buildup =X


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## Jeffdogg (May 12, 2013)

lilroach said:


> I think I may have my own answer....after penning my post on here I went down to check out the plants and instead of doing my "finger in the soil" method of checking to see if I had to give 'em water, I lifted the 5 gal bucket.....it weighed a TON! The friggin' Humbolt soil clogged all my drain-holes like it was made of clay. Here lies the difference between the happy frog and ocean forest I've used in the past and Humbolt's soil.
> 
> I drilled much bigger and many more drain-holes and did my best to bust up the globs of soil in the bottom half of my bucket (it was like rock). It may be too late for these seedlings, but you can bet that I'll never use this soil again and will happily pay more for Happy Frog or Ocean Forest.


Also to prevent that, some growers will use extra perlite or newpaper and use it as a bottom layer of the pot/bucket to cover the drain holes.


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## tekdc911 (May 12, 2013)

perlite whats that ?


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## Jeffdogg (May 12, 2013)

In horticulture, perlite can be used as a soil amendment or alone as a medium for hydroponics or for starting cuttings. When used as an amendment it has high permeability / low water retention and helps prevent soil compaction. ;P


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## tekdc911 (May 12, 2013)

i was j/k but hey maybe that bit of info will help someone out


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## tekdc911 (May 12, 2013)

what strains you have goin @ jeffdogg ?


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## Jeffdogg (May 12, 2013)

I knew ya was j/k, but went along  I Actually have a couple AutoXtreme otw, and a little Gibberellic Acid


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## tekdc911 (May 12, 2013)

your still new to auto's ? have you tried dinafem's original amnesia auto ?
i trimmed a bit of the lower branches that i felt wouldnt reach to the scrog and chopped it up real fine and let it quick dry a few tokes and i think i was sittin on the moon but i cant remember  honestly though not even a week into flower this stuff will knock your socks off already building trich's ive grown this strain for a while and the newest pack i got i ended up with a real bushy one seems to start even earlier with the trich build up easy to grow requires little or no nutes but can take a full dose almost i give it like 8.75/10 with 10 being dr.grinspoon or nirvana sky something along those lines


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## tekdc911 (May 12, 2013)

ive been experimenting with taking clones of auto's in hope to hermi them out for seed crops just the male parts not to actually make seeds can clone gebb it and then collect the pollen can just throw it outside it wouldnt be that large seeing how after the roots took it would probably be already in flower
hate to waste a whole plant for a seed crop 
Im not a tight wad im just green  ya thats my excuse


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## tekdc911 (May 12, 2013)

Had to add this so that way if its sticky'd it will be here in the first couple pages




*

lilroach 





Learning How To RollLearning How To Roll




Join DateMar 2013
LocationPlanet EarthPosts47Journal Entries34

[h=2]




[/h]
I can only go by the many photos and video of autos, and it seems to me that if someone doesn't have expectations of a pound per plant and doesn't care if the weed doesn't ring the highest THC bell...autos are a good option. The thing I like about autos is that one can have a revolving grow without having to have separate veg and flower rooms....getting a fresh ounce or two every week/month ain't a bad thing. 

I see many small cab grows with nothing more than $10 invested in CFL's and a couple of fans grow some amazing plants. The lack of needing a ton of nutrients and the ability of growing in small pots, makes autos a perfect choice for many.​


Unlike
You like this.

My profile pic is of me standing in front of the White House at a NORML rally back in the 1970's. Yes, behind me is a line of riot cops, and yes, that's a bowl of weed I'm smoking in front of them.​


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## technical dan (May 12, 2013)

For LSTing I made a couple pot-toppers 
They take up a bit of space so now im trying some eye bolts in to the lip (with pieces of wood glued between it and the wall of the pot) of the pot


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## tekdc911 (May 12, 2013)

ive made out of 2"x2" wood stakes a single serving scrog that you can move around just framed it up around the pot 
worked well


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## tekdc911 (May 12, 2013)

that big topper i like that how many 7 " pots could you fit up there you think ? could grow like a think different in the middle and smaller faster strains in 7" pots around the edge


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## technical dan (May 13, 2013)

Yeah I may end up doing something like that but right now the plan is when the plant with the topper finishes in a weekish I am going to transplant the photoperiods from four inch squares to some 7in pots which will take up the rest of the space in my tent. And start doing mostly photos so this is probably the last time in the foreseeable future that I will have 4 autos going inside. But if I did fewer plants I could use the 2 toppers I have to grow some bushes, they have a much nicer array of tying points but take up extra space compared to eye bolts in the pots. 

I can put up to 8 of the 4in pots on one topper assuming the LSTed plant is not in the way, which it is/ will be so effectively 6 pots or so


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## jakeso123 (May 13, 2013)

tekdc911 said:


> and brother i use garden soil from home depot the organic stuff with no time release ive used fox's soil and came to the conclusion that its comparable results from stuff i can get locally


I am a noobie at growing cannabis, however I have been an avid gardener for 41 years. I started with the auto flowering AK 48 and auto power skunk, I decided that fox farm products are way over priced and used a mix of organic soil, composted manure and organic topsoil, I added an organic fertilizer very low in Nitrogen and with small amounts of potassium and phosphate, then I added enough organic fertilizer to duplicate fox farms Tiger Bloom. The total cost for two 1 gallon pots, one 5 gallon pot and one 3 gallon pot was around $9. I am using a T5 light with a 90 watt LED Diode light hung 4 ft above the plants and the T5 is right on top of the plants. So far, so good. The tip that the plants grow a tap root to the side tells me shallow small waterings would be best. Any suggestions, criticism, or advice would greatly appreciated.


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## tekdc911 (May 13, 2013)

jakeso123 said:


> I am a noobie at growing cannabis, however I have been an avid gardener for 41 years. I started with the auto flowering AK 48 and auto power skunk, I decided that fox farm products are way over priced and used a mix of organic soil, composted manure and organic topsoil, I added an organic fertilizer very low in Nitrogen and with small amounts of potassium and phosphate, then I added enough organic fertilizer to duplicate fox farms Tiger Bloom. The total cost for two 1 gallon pots, one 5 gallon pot and one 3 gallon pot was around $9. I am using a T5 light with a 90 watt LED Diode light hung 4 ft above the plants and the T5 is right on top of the plants. So far, so good. The tip that the plants grow a tap root to the side tells me shallow small waterings would be best. Any suggestions, criticism, or advice would greatly appreciated.


just careful on the nutes/ferts ive grown many strains out and usually never use more then 1/2 str nutes 
if your using a soil that you made then thats awesome seeing how youve gardened for 40+ years tells me i can wrap this up in a few sentences 

if you want big auto's use perlite at least 25% water but dont drench the soil they like to dry up in between water / feeds but not desert dry just barely moist if your watering correctly then it seems like they grow every time you water 
i give them a few cups daily i have to schedule waterings seeing how im using a scrog and cant pick my planters up 1/4 str nutes and a 24/0 lighting 
if you added somthing to cover the need for cal mag they require low/moderate levels most soils dont cover this need just careful to much and it will start locking out other nutes 
the led is ok for veg at that distance but bring it in closer for flower 
trick to a auto is feed it like you feed a baby 
bland and in small doses


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## Jeffdogg (May 14, 2013)

Very informative page on LST for Auto's, should take a peek 

Auto LST
http://www.autoflowering-cannabis.com/autoflower-lst.html#more-939

Tie down AF LST
http://www.autoflowering-cannabis.com/tie-down-low-stress-trainin.html


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## 70sdiver (May 15, 2013)

Mix one table spoon of garden lime per gallon of dirt. Never have a cal- mag deficencey and your soil oh will be stable.


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## tekdc911 (May 15, 2013)

70sdiver said:


> Mix one table spoon of garden lime per gallon of dirt. Never have a cal- mag deficencey and your soil oh will be stable.


now would i run this in a soil soiless mix with the same results ?
im almost fully soiless i use just enough potting mix to cover the first few weeks the rest is moss and perlite


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## tekdc911 (May 15, 2013)

got a crazy little fact for ya 
have a new 7 band 135w led with the ir and uv 3 w diodes i think one of the two light bleaches my plants when i get it to close its one spot right in the middle of the scrog 2 different branches and both directly under the ir or uv cant tell
doesnt do it if i pick it up its a shame too cause the rest of the plant is loving it


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## Jeffdogg (May 16, 2013)

tekdc911 said:


> now would i run this in a soil soiless mix with the same results ?
> im almost fully soiless i use just enough potting mix to cover the first few weeks the rest is moss and perlite


Indeed but look for Dolimite (im sure its the same as "garden lime" just never heard it called that just dolomite) lime:

In horticulture, dolomite and dolomitic limestone are added to soils and soilless potting mixes as a pH buffer and as a magnesium source. Home and container gardening are common examples of this use.

What it does is make your soil "neutral" (7.0 p.h.) Helps PH stability for sure, unless you use advanced nutrients then alot of their base products adjust the PH automatically for you  No pens no fiss dont gotta spend time adjusting/calibrating/etc...


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## Jeffdogg (May 16, 2013)

tekdc911 said:


> got a crazy little fact for ya
> have a new 7 band 135w led with the ir and uv 3 w diodes i think one of the two light bleaches my plants when i get it to close its one spot right in the middle of the scrog 2 different branches and both directly under the ir or uv cant tell
> doesnt do it if i pick it up its a shame too cause the rest of the plant is loving it


Yeah I hear LED can have that effect if its too close,they're being refined though. Past 4-5 years they have come along way from that little red dot we used to see on our old coffee makers


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## lovemymj (May 16, 2013)

lilroach said:


> I don't know if I should post this on the sick plants blog or here....so I'll pick here because my issues are auto-specific.
> 
> I am a noob with two successful photo-period grows under my belt. I really like the idea of autos and purchased 5 Cream of the Crop KO's ( https://www.cannabis-seeds-bank.co.uk/cream-of-the-crop-ko-crop-auto/prod_3694.html ) and got one auto AK47 as a freebie.
> 
> ...


 SUP ROACH!!! Damn man!!!! Sorry to see you got some duds bro....


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## 70sdiver (May 16, 2013)

At Home Depot it's called Espinoza garden lime. It's the same as dolemite lime.


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## tekdc911 (May 16, 2013)

Jeffdogg said:


> Indeed but look for Dolimite (im sure its the same as "garden lime" just never heard it called that just dolomite) lime:
> 
> In horticulture, dolomite and dolomitic limestone are added to soils and soilless potting mixes as a pH buffer and as a magnesium source. Home and container gardening are common examples of this use.
> 
> What it does is make your soil "neutral" (7.0 p.h.) Helps PH stability for sure, unless you use advanced nutrients then alot of their base products adjust the PH automatically for you  No pens no fiss dont gotta spend time adjusting/calibrating/etc...


im running recipe for success and never had any ph problems even in used soil mix


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## Jeffdogg (May 17, 2013)

tekdc911 said:


> im running recipe for success and never had any ph problems even in used soil mix


Different strokes for different folks bud , Wont have to worry bout the PH if the water you use is good and close to the right ph. You using tap? RO? Have to adjust the ph or is it naturally in the correct range? (If so ill be soo jealous, mine is closer to


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## Jeffdogg (May 17, 2013)

Posted this in a thread earlier, helps a little with ppl that have heat issues and not alot of money to correct it.



> *But if you take a bucket, fill it up with water. Then place a washrag/handtowl over the water and just let it sit on top soaking up the water. Have a fan blow over the top and it works like a poor man's air conditioner. Also if you feel like playing Mr.Wizard go get yourself some baking soda and vinegar (i'd recommend white distilled the regular smells nasty). Get yourself a good size bowl and put it in the middle of your plants (preferably right over the top of them just a tad) put a few tbls. of baking soda in the bowl and poor some vinegar in it. That produces Co2, if possible once an hour in those hot temps would really help them out. *


I say put it over the tops just a tad because Co2 is heavy and it will onto them. Plants breathe Co2, in higher temps plants have a harder time breathing which in turn hinders their growth. Co2 Supplementation makes it easier for your plants to breathe in those temps resulting in a better harvest. In a controlled environment where the temps are where they should be using Co2 increases the overall yield. The range of how much varies, some say its a 20% increase they have seen, some say 30%. I'd like to believe 20% if either are correct, but then again when your first starting its hard to tell because 9/10 times your yield is gonna improve from experience. But the logic makes sense and we all want bigger


----------



## tekdc911 (May 17, 2013)

Jeffdogg said:


> Different strokes for different folks bud , Wont have to worry bout the PH if the water you use is good and close to the right ph. You using tap? RO? Have to adjust the ph or is it naturally in the correct range? (If so ill be soo jealous, mine is closer to


im on well water and technically its a free flowing artesian we have a pump but if you open a line in front of the pump it comes out on its own The Wonders Of Nature


----------



## tekdc911 (May 17, 2013)

honestly never ph'd it had no reason to 
landlord told me it was artesian and told me if i lost power it was free flowing
its nice to have seeing how we're so close to tornado alley


----------



## Jeffdogg (May 17, 2013)

tekdc911 said:


> im on well water and technically its a free flowing artesian we have a pump but if you open a line in front of the pump it comes out on its own The Wonders Of Nature


Edit since you just answered lol:

Thats awesome never have to worry about ph. I dont have to using Advanced nutrients ph perfect items.


----------



## technical dan (May 17, 2013)

Read the bag when you buy lime there are two kinds of lime: dolomite lime that has cal and mag and then there is also hydrated lime which you do not want to use for cannabis.


----------



## tekdc911 (May 17, 2013)

lime is for concrete


----------



## Jeffdogg (May 17, 2013)

tekdc911 said:


> lime is for concrete


i thought it was for mojitos


----------



## tekdc911 (May 17, 2013)

no the chocolate mint is for mojito's
i have one its amazing 
you have me wondering what my ph is now >.<


----------



## tekdc911 (May 17, 2013)

chocolate mint


----------



## Jeffdogg (May 17, 2013)

Ok gonna do this maybe once a week, quick summary of the weeks posts. Gonna do it every Friday and once a month I will gather all the collected summaries and post them at the end so the information never gets lost cause of all the pages that becomes of this thread.

*Week 5/10~17/2013
*


> *Never Transplant!!! Start off in the harvesting pot 3Gallon+
> 
> You Could!! Cut off the bottom to a party cup, an when the roots come out the bottom just put the Cup in the bigger Pot.
> 20/4 hours is the best(Depending on Strain) If you really want to Find out what is best, Start with 24/7 then the next batch, use 20/4 and see how that goes...
> ...


*
*
There we have it, I did not put all in there its a lot of info lmao. Did good for the first week guys, another week or so of this and we can start strong arming them to sticky this!!!


----------



## tekdc911 (May 17, 2013)

just a taste of the skeletons im my closet 
Himalaya Blue Diesel scrog cfl's and led grow


----------



## Jeffdogg (May 17, 2013)

tekdc911 said:


> View attachment 2661028View attachment 2661029 just a taste of the skeletons im my closet
> Himalaya Blue Diesel scrog cfl's and led grow


Very nice bud, good job! 

The blue is from barneys? I wanted to get the auto sweet tooth but went with the xtreme


----------



## tekdc911 (May 17, 2013)

short stuff seeds is the HBD 
right now i have 
a amnesia auto from dinafem 
3 afghan kush ryders from world of seeds 
1 of the freebie seeds from herbies la frutta de venus from delicious i think
and another HBD seedling
2 in flower and 5 seedlings


----------



## tekdc911 (May 17, 2013)

sweet tooth from barneys is a all time fav its almost always in rotation


----------



## tekdc911 (May 17, 2013)

probably the strain i would suggest to any beginner grower 
buy 3 of these plant all 3 at the same time
this will insure that if you get the real cabbage like pheno that youll know it and not have problems 
its not common but not uncommon and have heard horror stories about it indoors gave one of these "cabbage" pheno's to a buddy a week ago was about 3 weeks old he said after he stuck it in the ground outside its grown almost a foot in a week that is nuts


----------



## RB1956 (May 17, 2013)

I like to use Super Roots Air Pots 7.5L(2 gallon) with 60/40 Perlite/Coco.. This allows for the most beginner gardener to NOT over water.. We all now when we first start that's the hardest part is to not overwater.. But this also allows for great rapid growth in my experience.. Air pots also allow for you to grow more plants in the same area.. Say you have 3-4gal buckets, well there HUGE.. Air pots are 9x9" tiny compared to buckets.. This is because they DONT ever get root bound.. I would also advise to get Advanced Nutes PH perfect as well.. Then you have nothing to do but PPM.. And with feeding always UNDERFEED(compared to back label instructions) would be my suggestion, but there are a VERY few that will take full dose.. Veg nutes if used weeks 3-5, then flower nutes weeks 5-8.5 then water for 1.5 weeks= 10 weeks.. Week 5 half veg half bloom nutes.. KISS, not to many additives... Last but NOT least LEAVE them ALONE lol, don't be touching and sqeezing your nuggies every HR.. Its hard but really just water and feed and well watch thru your tent, lol.. You have a lot of Oils on your hands so you touching them and stuff can/maybe affect them.. GL everyone


----------



## beaves IOW (May 18, 2013)

God this thread is sooo god damn helpful!! Especially to us noobs! Please keep this thread goin I'm guna need it along with many others lol


----------



## Jeffdogg (May 18, 2013)

All we can do is rate the thread 5 stars and start asking for this to be stickied. Its a good AF resource already.


----------



## tekdc911 (May 18, 2013)

mwahahaha 
i clipped a side branch from my amnesia and took a sample at 3 weeks O.O simply amazing



P.S. sorry for the shitty pic


----------



## tekdc911 (May 19, 2013)

bumparoosky


----------



## technical dan (May 19, 2013)

a blue mammoth thats going towards its second week of training and a white widow auto in its first couple days ........ train early to win hard. 


and a mig-29 that was cut down n trimmed up on friday


----------



## technical dan (May 19, 2013)

I would like to give airpots a shot but it costs a bit to get a set.


----------



## Jeffdogg (May 19, 2013)

Anyone ever try a AF in one of those topsy turvy thing s they use for tomatoes? That would be like an auto lst method you would think ;P


----------



## tekdc911 (May 19, 2013)

works good out doors hard to keep the water from going every where indoors


----------



## technical dan (May 19, 2013)

yeah that would be interesting (at least to look at) to try if I had a nice space to hang on up outside


----------



## RB1956 (May 19, 2013)

Yes air pots are exp.. start up but last forever.. But IMO they are the best thing for a plant.. Never get root bound which is half the battle for a lot of people.. Waiting to long to switch from 20/4 to 12/12 or even autos if you start them in something smaller than 4 gal buckets.. But if you can def give them a chance I don't think u will regret it


----------



## tekdc911 (May 19, 2013)

ill use them on my next grow what ever size compares to a 2 gal and do a side by side 2 pots from this grow and 2 airpots 
first have to get the 2 AKR's 2 frutta di venus and himalaya blue diesel seedling and one HBD in flower now
out of the way


p.s. 
forgot to add one dinafem amnesia auto that has been harvested early and left with alot of lower buds that have been foliar fed with 
B-1 thrive alive red dose and a half hopefully burns it bad enough it hermi's if not will leave it for a few more weeks and hope it pops a banana so i can salvage the genetics


----------



## RB1956 (May 19, 2013)

I would use 7.5L air pots.. They're great


----------



## technical dan (May 20, 2013)

yeah the next time I have some money for growing ..... and I dont need soil or other stuff just to run, as I did the last time I looked at airpots


----------



## WattSaver (May 20, 2013)

Great thread,lots of needed info for growing autos. 

I'm going to try some autos for the first time, and have a couple of questions. Been growing for several yrs but have never grown an auto. I want to grow the autos outdoors this summer, because winter just comes to early in my time zone. I'm gonna grow G-13 Labs Auto Pinnapple Express. Says it's indoor outdoor, but no info on how long it takes to finish, I'm plotting for something close to 90days??

I plan on growing them in hempy buckets, with a medium of equal parts Coco coir, coco chunks (mulch) & perlite. For nutes I'll be using CRF's so overfeeding won't be an issue.
Now my concern is I have to stay 4' or less to keep them out of view of the neighbors. I was hoping to top them, but after reading tekdc's comment's on early topping I really wonder if topping when only 2wks old is okay. It's something I wouldn't do with a regular.

Normally I start my seeds in small containers, but after reading here I guess I'll start them in the 2gal buckets I had planned on finishing them in.

If you have any other advice for a noob auto grower please throw it at me. Thanks


----------



## Jeffdogg (May 20, 2013)

WattSaver said:


> Great thread,lots of needed info for growing autos.
> 
> I'm going to try some autos for the first time, and have a couple of questions. Been growing for several yrs but have never grown an auto. I want to grow the autos outdoors this summer, because winter just comes to early in my time zone. I'm gonna grow G-13 Labs Auto Pinnapple Express. Says it's indoor outdoor, but no info on how long it takes to finish, I'm plotting for something close to 90days??
> 
> ...


I'm new to Auto's too!!  But like you have a fair amount of experience under my belt. I've found a thread for you to read. From what I can tell its about 8-9 week strain from seed. The page before last he shows it at 7.5 weeks so you can track from there when he pulled and of course by now im sure you know what a finished bud looks like so just apply some of you experience into the mix and you should be able to get a round about harvest date 

http://www.420magazine.com/forums/completed-journals/155810-pineapple-express-auto-fem-cfl-grow-1-week-veg-4.html


----------



## Jeffdogg (May 20, 2013)

WattSaver said:


> Great thread,lots of needed info for growing autos.
> 
> I'm going to try some autos for the first time, and have a couple of questions. Been growing for several yrs but have never grown an auto. I want to grow the autos outdoors this summer, because winter just comes to early in my time zone. I'm gonna grow G-13 Labs Auto Pinnapple Express. Says it's indoor outdoor, but no info on how long it takes to finish, I'm plotting for something close to 90days??
> 
> ...


I'm growing outdoors myself but growing in ground not in a pot or bag. I'm pretty exceited my AutoXtreme from Dutch passion will be here on wed or thur . Yeah its not recommended to transplant auto's, you will get a couple rogue growers who say they have done it w/o problems which I can see. It's a 50/50 chance in my opinion to really stress it out. I've transplanted many of times and never seen any kinds of shock. They just keep going. But I'm for sure gonna play it safe this round, Should do what i am doing if you are confident in your strain. Take one of the seeds get some Gibberellic Acid. You spray it on the plant according to the directions (they seem to vary on the seller) when the auto strarts flowering. t'll make male parts and hermie itself, and it will give you 100's if not 1000's of seeds exactly like the ones you bought.

As for the height LST them they like to be tied down . Will stay under 4' that way for sure  (depending on the strain, some AF can get like 7' lol).


----------



## tekdc911 (May 20, 2013)

8-14 weeks depending on strain and most will get good sized outdoors if you have some high drainage but still absorbs water type soil
if they get to large. drive a stake in the ground and tie the main stalk down from almost the top if. you can get the main cola/tip to bend down to where its looking at the ground "do this before flowering/ you can still tie them down after flower but be gentle" and bend it over a couple days or a week depending on how gentle you need to be if it feels like its gonna break or starts to bend stop and tie it off or stake it off
you get a s.o.g. effect 

all it is. 
is a controlled stress on the stalk i do it all the time its like super croping for auto's really dense's them up 
i grow with cfl's and led's and its nice to not have stretchy plants 
doing this has helped me alot


----------



## Jeffdogg (May 20, 2013)

TIP OF THE DAY!!!

Dont talk down to your Autoflowers, it wont make them feel any bigger...


----------



## tekdc911 (May 20, 2013)

my auto's talk down to me is my problem 

there always like FEED ME!!!!!!! Seymour!!!!!!!! FEED ME NOW!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Jeffdogg (May 20, 2013)

Posted this in a thread earlier, not many ppl frequent the proper forum to find this. I think its a great addition to the thread.

https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/157345-have-plant-problem-check-here.html

And this

https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/488004-guide-nutrient-deficiency-toxicity.html

Andddd this

https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/38772-guide-diagnosing-plant-problems.html


----------



## WattSaver (May 20, 2013)

Thank you all, haven't finished the read on the PE grow yet, but I'll adjust my start time to get the best of my summer. I'll give up on the topping and just go the bondage route, and try to learn the growth cycle. Just gonna let it do it's thing & see what happens.


----------



## iiKode (May 20, 2013)

lilroach said:


> I don't know if I should post this on the sick plants blog or here....so I'll pick here because my issues are auto-specific.
> 
> I am a noob with two successful photo-period grows under my belt. I really like the idea of autos and purchased 5 Cream of the Crop KO's ( https://www.cannabis-seeds-bank.co.uk/cream-of-the-crop-ko-crop-auto/prod_3694.html ) and got one auto AK47 as a freebie.
> 
> ...


moisture stress? remember if you plant a seed into a 20L container then the bottom of the pot will still be wet when the top 5 inches is dry, when a plant is overwatered like that then its hard to keep them going, just dont water and see a difference, even if you dont water for a month i done the same thing my pot was heavy all of the time bit the top couple inches were dry, the plant just wouldnt drink because it had so much water in the soil and it was so small, also it could be the soil, it looks a bit rocky maybe the roots cannot get through it, cannabis like a fluffy soil so plenty of oxygen can get to the roots.


----------



## Jeffdogg (May 21, 2013)

Figured I'd give the morning bump with this!!!!




> *10 Top Tips for a Better Autoflowering Yield*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## Jeffdogg (May 21, 2013)

Also found this as well, lots of great info to start the day!!



> We all know that Cannabis is a photo period plant, don&#8217;t we? (and for those who don&#8217;t, I suggest you read this article here) In order to trigger the plant into flower, we need to cheat it into thinking that summer is passing and that the days are getting shorter by restricting the number of light hours the plant receives.
> 
> 
> _This is not the case for autoflowering cannabis._
> ...


----------



## Jeffdogg (May 21, 2013)

*Fixing Marijuana Nutrients Deficiencies & Fertilizer Burn*

http://bigbudsmag.com/grow/article/marijuana-hydroponics-nutrients-deficiencies-fertilizers-ph

Part 2:
http://bigbudsmag.com/grow/article/marijuana-cannabis-hydroponics-nutrients-deficiencies-fertilizer

Part 3:
Looking for it ;P

Part 4:
http://direct.bigbudsmag.com/grow/article/hydroponics-marijuana-nutrients-overfeeding-deficiencies-thc

Part 5:
http://bigbudsmag.com/grow/article/marijuana-nutrients-deficiencies-over-fertilization


----------



## Jeffdogg (May 22, 2013)

Bump bumpity bump bump....Bump BUMP!!


----------



## Jeffdogg (May 22, 2013)

Also a very good read

http://www.growweedeasy.com/growing-marijuana-plant-problem-deficiency


----------



## Southernhempshire (May 23, 2013)

Great thread on autos,very informative and helpful.


----------



## Jeffdogg (May 23, 2013)

Thank you, I hope to get it stickied. Its a great place for knowledge 

Also, Welcome to RIU friend


----------



## Jeffdogg (May 23, 2013)

Just read this on the Dutch Passion Site, cool bits of info



> [h=1]First Time Grower. A beginners guide to AutoFem&#8217;s[/h] When Autoflowering marijuana varieties first appeared many were disappointed with poor yields and the potency of the weed - which was medium strength at best. But over the last couple of years the best AutoFem varieties have changed out of all recognition. Today AutoFem&#8217;s are delivering some amazing results especially for indoor growers. The unique ability of AutoFem&#8217;s to use 20 hours of daily light has allowed some remarkable yields. Thanks to refinements made to the breeding process the potency of the best AutoFem levels are now indistinguishable from traditional varieties.
> 
> Plenty of growers who have never grown AutoFem seeds before are now realising the benefits of these 70-day strains which allow an early summer crop for the outdoor/greenhouse growers and a fast production method with great yield potential for indoor growers. If you have never grown AutoFem&#8217;s before, then this blog will explain all the main things you will need to know to get a great crop.
> 
> ...


http://www.dutch-passion.nl/en/news-and-development/A-beginners-guide-to-AutoFem/


----------



## Jeffdogg (May 24, 2013)

> *Week 5/10~17/2013
> * *Never Transplant!!! Start off in the harvesting pot 3Gallon+
> 
> You Could!! Cut off the bottom to a party cup, an when the roots come out the bottom just put the Cup in the bigger Pot.
> ...


*
 Week 5**/17~24/2013*


> *sweet tooth from barneys is a all time fav its almost always in rotation,**probably the strain i would suggest to any beginner grower
> buy 3 of these plant all 3 at the same time
> this will insure that if you get the real cabbage like pheno that youll know it and not have problems
> its not common but not uncommon and have heard horror stories about it indoors gave one of these "cabbage" pheno's to a buddy a week ago was about 3 weeks old he said after he stuck it in the ground outside its grown almost a foot in a week that is nuts
> ...


----------



## tekdc911 (May 26, 2013)

bumparooski


----------



## lilroach (May 26, 2013)

I sorta lost this thread and missed many comments on my drenched soil for my auto Cream of the Crop KO.

Thank all of you for your responses.

My battle with Humbolt's soil is still being waged. I yanked my dwarf auto AK47 as it went into bloom at 2" tall. I couldn't see anything good coming from that.

I've been tilling the soil in the Cream of the crop in an attempt to get air into the bottom of the container and bring the wet soil to the top to dry out (this is after drilling about 30 holes in the container). After over 2 weeks of not watering, I still have soaked soil on the bottom. The plant has decided to live and grow after my tilling, but I can only do this so long before I fuck up the roots.

I got some 3/4" PVC, cut 'em to 1' lengths, then drilled a shit-load of holes in them, and pushed them down to where my wet soil resides.

https://www.rollitup.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=2670846&d=1369458067

So I'm hopeful that even with the late growth, the plant will make it to harvest.


----------



## Jeffdogg (May 26, 2013)

Theres worms that are good for you soil, they move around and get the air to your roots. The fight isnt over till the girls lives are sucked from them. Even then lol..... They are very resilient plants, you would be surprised what happens to some growers.


----------



## lilroach (May 26, 2013)

Jeffdog.....thank you for the easy-to-follow directions. You answered many of the question I had about growing auto's.


----------



## Jeffdogg (May 27, 2013)

lilroach said:


> Jeffdog.....thank you for the easy-to-follow directions. You answered many of the question I had about growing auto's.


Thats great roach, as long as I helped 1 person then this thread was worth putting together. Stay tuned this thread will keep growing with knowledge, i'm gonna try to get it stickied. I believe its worthy of it kiss-ass


----------



## tekdc911 (May 27, 2013)

I need some magic finish juice for my HBD its hitting SUPER-AUTO finish times  
its just a lil slow


----------



## Jeffdogg (May 27, 2013)

The last few days will for sure be worth the wait


----------



## tekdc911 (May 27, 2013)

few days i wish its only 1-2 weeks into flower


----------



## tekdc911 (May 27, 2013)

EMO Nudie pics


----------



## Moontoc (May 28, 2013)

[/B]Actually the Rodelization method of creating feminized seeds produces 1/4 female, 1/4 male, 1/4 hermaphrodite and 1/4 mules.
If you want to make feminized seeds, use colloidal silver on your buds. Just don't smoke them after you remove the seeds though. Nasty!


----------



## oat0328 (May 28, 2013)

Moontoc said:


> [/B]Actually the Rodelization method of creating feminized seeds produces 1/4 female, 1/4 male, 1/4 hermaphrodite and 1/4 mules.
> If you want to make feminized seeds, use colloidal silver on your buds. Just don't smoke them after you remove the seeds though. Nasty!


Yes you are correct


----------



## Jeffdogg (May 29, 2013)

Tip of the day: For people who suffer from gnats.

1. Stop over watering
2.Get a mug or a small bowl.
3. Pour some apple cider vinegar into it
4. Add a few drops of dish soap to the vinegar.
5. Place in area with gnats and give it a few days 

Tried a lot of stuff when I first started growing while learning how to water properly . I came up with this and it worked and I posted it on here and worked well for others in the past.


----------



## tekdc911 (May 29, 2013)

i actually just sprayed for gnats 
some chewing tobacco tea on the top of the soil 
also a layer of sandy soil helps keep them away no nooks to hide larvae in


----------



## technical dan (May 30, 2013)

I have tried tobacco tea and it kills the ones it is sprayed on but didnt work great IME. But the solo cup with cider vinegar works great, water works ok too. I also (when needed/ prevention) spray water/neem oil/ dish soap on top of the soil after watering and it will create a film on the top of the soil that kills the gnats.


----------



## Jeffdogg (May 31, 2013)

Tip of the day:

If its not dry, dont apply.


----------



## whitnasty1 (May 31, 2013)

Is a #3 sized pot too small for autos? Getting the last things together on my list before I get started! Thanks very much!


----------



## tekdc911 (May 31, 2013)

whitnasty1 said:


> Is a #3 sized pot too small for autos? Getting the last things together on my list before I get started! Thanks very much!


# 3 is a 3 gal isnt it? if so then that is plenty


----------



## whitnasty1 (May 31, 2013)

It is actually slightly less, but it is pretty close. I can get some #5's from offline, but it will take longer. A #5 is somewhere around 4.4 gal I believe.


----------



## tekdc911 (May 31, 2013)

3 gal is the common practice from what i can see


----------



## tekdc911 (May 31, 2013)

what style are you growing ?
if you use a semi hempy style you can use a smaller pot 
smaller pots also finish faster but dont get as big


----------



## Jeffdogg (May 31, 2013)

Perlite and 2 5 gallon buskets stizacked!!


----------



## Jeffdogg (May 31, 2013)

Was looking around for seaweed extract and came across this.


http://organicsrx.com/product/sea-kelp-100/

I find it interesting, does anybody have any experience with this item?


----------



## Jeffdogg (May 31, 2013)

Also if you guys have not checked him out yet, he has been making vids for 6-7 years now. I've been a fan of him and the nutrients he represents (Advanced Nutrients)

http://www.urbangroweronline.com/index.php?do=/


----------



## whitnasty1 (May 31, 2013)

If you can link me to the best pots for my Sensi skunk #1 and northern lights autos, i would really appreciate it. Going for 6 or 7 under 600w mh / hps.


----------



## Jeffdogg (May 31, 2013)

The best pots? Or the best pots within a certain price range?


----------



## Jeffdogg (May 31, 2013)

These 

http://www.airpotgarden.com/

apparently get the kids excited


----------



## whitnasty1 (May 31, 2013)

Wow that's awesome, your auto knowledge is invaluable jd. I will def be contacting you for help on my upcoming auto grow! 
Should have specified, cheapest pots in 3-5 gal range. Thanks again!


----------



## WattSaver (May 31, 2013)

Jeffdogg said:


> Was looking around for seaweed extract and came across this.
> 
> 
> http://organicsrx.com/product/sea-kelp-100/
> ...


I've been using this for the past several yrs, and it does make a difference, I use at a rate lower than on bottle @ 8 to 10 drops/gal, and use it from seed to harvest. It's 20% kelp, and bunch of other goodies. LINK

I do like the Advanced Nutes but just can't see paying the price. I do however use their microbe building in the root zone products.


----------



## Jeffdogg (May 31, 2013)

Yeah AN is a little pricey but these now a days if theres a new grower out there that dont wanna fight with the PH that would be good for them. AN has the PH Perfect Technology, pretty cool stuff. Makes growing too easy these days 

The Grow, Micro, Bloom base nutrients contain value-added components that will enhance the performance of any type of garden, and include:

*F-1 (fulvates) 
H-2 (humates) 
An amino acid complex 
Wet Betty (non-ionic surfactant) 
*
The combination of the pH Perfect&#8482; Technology, simplified mixing rates and level of chelation in the balanced nutrient ratios ensure that crops always have access to the highest level of nutrition and vitality boosters possible
Growers using the pH Perfect&#8482; Technology nutrient technology will not have to worry about pH in their nutrient solutions, because the new formulas are able to adjust the pH to the optimal range automatically. Combining an optimal pH level with these cutting edge chelates has growers reporting back with a new standard in yield expectations.
In fact, the chelation technology used is so effective, that nutrients would still remain available to plants in conditions that would not normally allow crops to grow at all. However, growers won&#8217;t need to worry about that because the formulas keep your pH in the optimal range at all times.
The Grow, Micro, Bloom combo pack provides you with all three components of our advanced three-part feeding program. Together, Grow, Micro, and Bloom make up a superior hydroponics fertilizer that provides optimal nutrition. If you want to achieve fast growth, high yields, and incredible products, choose Grow, Micro, Bloom.

*&#8226; Promotes healthy plants and fastest growth possible 
&#8226; Pharmaceutical grade precursors
&#8226; More chelates per micronutrient than other manufacturers
&#8226; Nutrient absorption from a broader pH spectrum
&#8226; Concentrated, less-expensive formula
&#8226; Easy to use*


----------



## tekdc911 (Jun 1, 2013)

starting to get frosty


----------



## Jeffdogg (Jun 1, 2013)

Thats awesome the hairs look like their glowing <3


----------



## tekdc911 (Jun 1, 2013)

ya like its all ready on fire


----------



## tekdc911 (Jun 1, 2013)

if i get the camera just right the deep red catch lol
when i have them both going the other is mixed spec whites blue's red's uv ir 
it get kinda crazy some of it will be super red then normal then hyper white / blue
its just how the camera catches wish i had a good one the one on my phone is better then the digi i have


----------



## Jeffdogg (Jun 2, 2013)

Posted these on a different thread, thought they might be helpful

View attachment 2682673View attachment 2682674


----------



## Jeffdogg (Jun 2, 2013)

Didn't put anything in here that went into PH intimately yet. This is a good piece, its from Big Mike at advanced nutrients.



> Talk to any experienced grower and they will tell you that one of the most important features of their grow is the ability to control pH. pH (which, as most people are unaware, stands for "potential Hydrogen") is of paramount importance to any hydroponic grow operation because it affects the way that nutrients are absorbed into your plants. Many growers have long had an adversarial relationship with their nutrient solution's pH, but recent advances in nutrient technologies have made pH much more easily balanced within the nutrient reservoir, without the need of buffer solutions like pH up (an alkaline solution) or pH down (an acidic solution). Here is the lowdown on pH, how it affects your plants, and how you can keep it in that "sweet spot" that plants love.
> *Why pH Matters:*
> All green-leaved plants can survive just fine with a pH between 4.0 and 7.0. Basically, because the plants are made of relatively weak acids, they enjoy an environment that is also on the acidic side. However, when you are growing hydroponically, the nutrient solution that you provide to them is their life force, and nutrients will not be absorbed properly without the solution composed of the correct pH.
> 
> ...


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## technical dan (Jun 2, 2013)

I mix dry kelp(algalmin or something) into my soil mixes but I have not finished any of those plants nor have I used a liquid concentrate of it. Yep leds spit out some crazy colors ..... when my tent is unzipped this shows up on my floor . The camera didnt capture it real well but the reflective material on the inside of the tent reflects and separates the light making a led rainbow


edit: shitty pic the lines are much darker colors and are much brighter than that pic shows


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## whitnasty1 (Jun 2, 2013)

would there be anything wrong with putting my girls in 5 gal buckets to grow? I will drill drain holes and everything, and it looks like my area is going to be 58" x 46",with mylar on all surfaces. Is this too big for my 600w hps/mh? I can supplement with one or maybe even two 125w cfls on either side of the room. What do uou think?


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 2, 2013)

Nothing at all wrong with 5 gallon buckets, as long as they are CLEAN!!! Yeah make sure drainage is adequate and a tip either put like a 1 inch layer of perlite on the bottom of bucket's or newspaper (i prefer perlite and you will prob have some left over anyway if you use it). That way the drain holes dont get clogged, you dont want that...Really...


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 2, 2013)

I feel like i'm the only one who cares to contribute on this thread , thats ok ill keep going for the love of knowledge and to help others 

Hardening off

What is Hardening off? Hardening off is when you take your baby seedlings and bring them outdoors a couple hours a day before planting/potting them outside. This helps them acclimate to the new environment (especially the radiant heat from the sun), it makes it an easier transition for them as well as a preventive measure to avoid the sun from burning them.


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## whitnasty1 (Jun 2, 2013)

Okay sounds good! what do you think about my grow area size? I did find another 70w hps today, so that brings me to 670w total and i can add cfls if needed. 

I will definitely be asking you for your help in the very near future, i appreciate your contributions! 


Also what do uou think of my auto strain selection, NL Auto and Skunk #1 auto, both from Sensi seeds. worth growing? I'm hoping for a zip off each one, that would be wonderful for me!!


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 2, 2013)

Never tried any Sensi Seeds but always heard good thiings. They have been around longer then i'd say 85% of the breeders today. When it comes down to it its if you feel it has the qualities you want. Some may sound cool, like one time i ordered "Ice Cream" from Paradise seeds. AT first it was great but the novelty flavor got old very quick. You have to do research, type the strain in google with "review" at the end see what you can dig up about it. If you take the time to research and actually think about what traits you would like from your plant then your money will be well invested. I'll recommend some companies for you to check out for the future, but sensi is a fine company as I said. There are a lot of "novelty" breeders (paradise seeds isn't one but the strain kinda is ya know?) out there that can make a mediocre strain sound like the cats meow. Maybe they really believe they have something? Who knows, but check these guys out too, will list in no specific order. If anybody else wishes to contribute go ahead and i'll round them up every few days and add to the weekly round up.

Barney's coffee shop (IMO his genetics are like the "fine dining" of strains. Derry's genetics are of fine quality for sure.)
Dutch Passion (These guys been around for a while, very well known)
DNA Genetics (a little pricy not to sure about their auto's, but their photo strains are top notch)
Dina Fem (Always heard good things and more old school breeders)
World of seeds (Afghan Kush Ryder!!, Good breeders dont think they have been around too long)
Big Buddha Seeds (The fucking cheese, this dude has some killer strains. Blue Cheese is lovely)

CBD crew (Excellant breeders world reknown, new and gonna give info. You'll see why sadly no Auto's yet)


> CBD Crew Seeds is a collaboration between Jorge Cervantes, Shantibaba from Mr Nice Seeds and also Jamie from Resin Seeds. This new collaboration has one focus in particular and it is one that will further the medicinal opportunities for the cannabis plant! The focus of CBD Crew seeds is to produce cannabis strains that have an equal ratio of THC to CBD. CBD Crew strains typically have 5%-6% THC and the same amount of CBD. The CBD Cannabinoid is one which is thought to have medicinal benefits with some suggesting that it is great for preventing cancer, dealing with pain and also as an anti-inflammatory medication. It has also been reported that this cannabinoid helps significantly with illnesses such as anxiety. The truth is that although we know from the testimonials of medical users what this cannabinoid is capable of, until proper research is done, we will never know the complete medicinal value that this cannabinoid represents. So far its medical application seems extremely versatile. The fantastic new seed bank CBD Crew Seeds are setting the standard for future THC/CBD cannabinoid balanced cannabis seed breeders.


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## tekdc911 (Jun 2, 2013)

good read on the ruderalis strain
http://hashmuseum.com/cannabis-ruderalis


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## WattSaver (Jun 2, 2013)

whitnasty1 said:


> would there be anything wrong with putting my girls in 5 gal buckets to grow? I will drill drain holes and everything, and it looks like my area is going to be 58" x 46",with mylar on all surfaces. Is this too big for my 600w hps/mh? I can supplement with one or maybe even two 125w cfls on either side of the room. What do uou think?


Okay I'll put in my 2 cents. I've tried 5 gal buckets in soil, and passive hydro & I have found no advantage over a 3.5 gal bucket. I've grown 100's of regulars, and have found that a final container that is taller than wide doesn't work any better than a container of equal height and width, for root spread, and from what I've read autos are even more horizontal in root growth than regulars. What I've done for my hempy's is either buy or find 3.5gal buckets or just cut off 5 gal buckets a little below the rings such that the height is just a little more than the diameter. If you look at all the larger smart pots (5, 10, or 20 gal) you will notice that they are wider than tall, same with the larger air pots. So when looking for a good container (larger) to grow in keep the height, width ratio equal or leaning towards width.

As far as light I've always worked with a square area, and most hoods are constructed this way, but a 600 will cover a 5' square area no problem. I don't believe you'll need any supplemental cfl's.


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## tekdc911 (Jun 2, 2013)

and another history lesson on ruderalis 
this one is from dinafem
https://www.dinafem.org/en/blog/history-of-autoflowering-seeds/#


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## whitnasty1 (Jun 2, 2013)

thanks for all the suggestions guys, I really appreciate it. 

A little back ground info... i have been a greenhouse grower for the past five years, and due to circumstances out of my control, I have had to move everything inside, so this is my first real indoor grow. I chose the autos to try to get my set up dialed in before I do my normal photo periods. now I know I'm not going to read his anywhere near the yield as my greenhouse photos, but i am beginning to second think my decision. are they worth growing? potency wise? 

I have used sensi before with grwat results, as well as Dutch passion, they ate some of the originals, and i loved my last NL #5 grow, so I thought it'd be a great auto. I'm just curious as to if the ruderalis in the NL is going to kill the potency. Will it be better than the normal beasters that has flooded everywhere? Just have doing all this work if it won't be worth it in the end ya know?


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## tekdc911 (Jun 2, 2013)

most auto's now a days are high mids to low highs


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## whitnasty1 (Jun 2, 2013)

as long as ts not that beaster crap, ill be okay with it.


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## tekdc911 (Jun 2, 2013)

whitnasty1 said:


> as long as ts not that beaster crap, ill be okay with it.


the N.L. has some good reviews never personally tried growing it


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## tekdc911 (Jun 5, 2013)

very good read
http://jointdoctordirect.com/faq/frequently-asked-questions


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## tekdc911 (Jun 5, 2013)

and another 
http://bigbudsmag.com/grow/article/monsanto-GMOs-feminized-seeds-autoflowering-marijuana
wish i could find a actual life cycle bio 
on c. ruderalis in nature but its limited i think i havent found the right common name for it most are in russian


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 5, 2013)

Posted this on another thread figured i'd toss it in here too 



> Chlorosis is typically caused when leaves do not have enough nutrients to synthesise all the chlorophyll they need. It can be brought about by a combination of factors including:
> 
> 
> a specific mineral deficiency in the soil, such as iron[SUP][2][/SUP] or magnesium [SUP][3][/SUP]
> ...






> Interveinal chlorosis is almost always associated with a nutrient imbalance. This may either be due to a deficiency of a specific element or to a pH Imbalance in the soil which inhibits a plants ability to absorb nutrients. While the treatment is the same for both, you may still want to select from the list of additional symptoms in order to search for the precise cause of your African Violet's symptoms. Keep in mind, however, that due to the complex interaction between plant nutrients, pinpointing the precise cause will probably be very difficult. Often, an excess of one element will cause a deficiency in one or more other elements, and vice versa. Moreover, it may be that your African Violet is getting the proper balance of nutrients, but an imbalance in the soil pH is inhibiting its ability to absorb them. Thus, short of sending your plant to a laboratory for testing, you will probably have to be satisfied with simply knowing that your African Violet suffers a nutrient imbalance without knowing exactly why.


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 5, 2013)

Just posted this in another thread as well... really grab a bottle just to have if your growing indoor for sure.



> *Even if it wasnt PM I say buy this just to have. This will completely get rid of the PM, awesome stuff. screw sulfur burners..
> 
> http://www.greenwaynutrients.com/lea...powdery-mildew*


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## 16PLANTS (Jun 5, 2013)

Nice info on auto's .............got me interested in trying them  ................ dam I just made an order of 37 seeds from seeofseeds yesterday wish I would have read this first.


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## tekdc911 (Jun 5, 2013)

kinda lol'd a bit


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## Rob801 (Jun 5, 2013)

what about growing autoflower strains in hydroponic system with aeroponics flow with good nuts its a 20 site system so i was going to plant 10 seeds under 3 x 1k super hps lilghts all refelctive hoods i woudl like to get 3 Oz a plant ANY SUGGESTIONS? just kind thinking outside the box


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 6, 2013)

Growing in DWC will work, dont see why not. What in your mind is "good nutes"? lol. 3x1k lights for plants? Seriously?? By the way your talking it makes me think you have not done much research at all into growing marijuana. I'd suggest you take the next month at least and study study study before even starting a grow mate. I'm sure your gonna say you've grown before and what not but i wont buy it. If you get into hydro w/o having basic knowledge for growing and little to no knowledge/experience in DWC your prob gonna end up wasting lots of money. 

But hey what do i know right? Dont think outside the box nomore, start thinking inside books.. As long as you follow directions and get the proper equipment (PH testers and all) you wont have an issue. Its when a new grower uses what he/she thinks is common sense is when things usually go wrong.


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## technical dan (Jun 6, 2013)

check out gerorge cervantes how to grow videos and do plenty of reading. Also look at prices for decent gear when you are thinking about what kind of set up you want to get/ run there will be quite a high initial investment cost and high running costs esp. with 3 big HPS which then have to be cooled and so on. Make sure you have the money to get everything to grow and keep that grow going before you start buying anything or planning too much.


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## LOLusernames (Jun 6, 2013)

Any ideas as to how many days I got before harvest for this 42 day old auto purple kush? It looks like its not far off seeing as the hairs are turning orange on the top buds, but its only 6 weeks old?! . (I bought a magnifier to look at trichomes colour but its hard to use without ripping off a leaf or bud which i dont want to do!). Sorry if this is not a good thread to post in but I want some sound advice from top quality growers like yourselves! This is my first grow. Should i lay off the nutes until harvest?


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 6, 2013)

Stop listening to ppl who go by hairs bro, hairs can change color by spraying them or even stress to the plant will cause hairs to color. People love going by the trich color, and yeah i guess it could be used as a standard. But when a marijuana plant is done it looks "done"



> *we will start with ripeness. most people say to check your trichromes with 30X magnification. i have other ways. when buds are done they look "done". the appearance of the bud changes. the leaves start to hook upwards and become hard and crispy. the calyxes will swell and the hairs will turn brown. you can see a golden tinge to the bud leaves. this is the amber crystals. they start to turn amber on the leaves first.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


By the looks of the first plant, i dont think its gonna do much more, looks like its been stressed to hell and back. The second pic looks good though, same plant? Have you checked PH throughout your whole grow? Looks like the first pic has some PH issues (yeah guys i know i keep talking about PH lol......)

If the PH isnt right your plants not gonna be able to absorb nutrients properly therefore hindering the plants growth and ending up with something like plant #1. Flush it out for a week-week and a half and call it a day imo. Do a lot of research (massive amount of info on this thread already) watch some grow vids and your next grow should come out much better


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## LOLusernames (Jun 6, 2013)

Thanks for the advice JD, I see your point about harvesting when it simply 'looks done'. Those two pics are actually of the same plant, the second is with flash on, which really makes it look sexy, you get all that reflection off the trichomes going on and brings out the greeness! Yeah it probably is a bit stressed because it is a closet grow with no vent system and no fan, and no ph testing! and a leaf got too close to the lamp metal one time and got fried . My next grow will have those things. I already have the seeds in fact: jack herer, biodiesel mass , northernlights and bigbuddha S.A.S, all of them automatics . I 'll keep this forum posted .


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 6, 2013)

Please do bud, and if ya have any questions stop on by. I fell in love with a light and its out of stock 

http://www.htgsupply.com/Product-Agromax-Pro-Series-370-LED-Grow-Light.asp


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## whitnasty1 (Jun 6, 2013)

I have been curious about the Purple Kush, what kind of lights are you using LOL? I am debating on picking up some for my next grow, but I have a lot of White Widow x Big Bud that I want to try out too. So many strains, so little time. Looking good! Your help is invaluable JD, I will def be hitting you up in the next week or so, got all my duct work ran today, mylar will be here Tuesday and all my pH and PPM testing equipment will be here then as well. Plan to start germin' Wednesday night and putting them in the soil Friday - Sunday. I will start a grow journal so you and tek can lend a helping hand!


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 7, 2013)

Awesome bud sounds like your off to a good start. Anytime you need help just hop in here or toss me a PM  Also thank you for the kind words


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## LOLusernames (Jun 7, 2013)

whitnasty1, I'm using a 125W cfl with down-reflector , mixed spectrum, and a lamp with a 50W cfl which I move and position to get light focused on the middle parts of the plant. I'm growing just 2 plants.


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 7, 2013)

Heres a big update 




> *Week 5/10~17/2013
> * *Never Transplant!!! Start off in the harvesting pot 3Gallon+
> 
> You Could!! Cut off the bottom to a party cup, an when the roots come out the bottom just put the Cup in the bigger Pot.
> ...


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 7, 2013)

Week 6/07/2013



> *Tip of the day: For people who suffer from gnats.
> 
> 1. Stop over watering
> 2.Get a mug or a small bowl.
> ...


Thank you everyone who comes in to see whats new and who contributes to this thread as well.


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 8, 2013)

This is supposed to be good stuff, can spray up to the day of harvest.



> [SIZE=+1]The safe natural alternative to toxic chemicals
> With No Re-Entry Time Minimum[/SIZE]​ [SIZE=-1]Organocide&#8482; is a nature-safe, organic spray oil effective on a wide variety of insects, mites, armored and soft scales and certain fungal diseases. Organocide&#8482; is insecticidal to the eggs, larvae and nymphs of insects and adults of soft bodied insects.
> [/SIZE]​ [SIZE=-1][SIZE=+1]Target Pests: [/SIZE]
> Controls a wide range of mite and insect pests such as (but not limited to): [/SIZE]​
> ...


http://www.arborgrow.com/organocide.htm


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## technical dan (Jun 9, 2013)

thats deff a plus if you can actually spray it up to harvest with no ill effects


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 9, 2013)

Indeed especially when white flies move in unexpectedly!!!


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## s0lumn (Jun 9, 2013)

has this not been stickied yet?


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## WattSaver (Jun 9, 2013)

Jeffdogg said:


> This is supposed to be good stuff, can spray up to the day of harvest.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.arborgrow.com/organocide.htm


I don't like being the wet blanket, but here's the research / trials I've done. There are many types of oils to fight mites and other pests. Peppermint, strawberry, etc, SN product expensive oils, Neem, and on and on. They are all organic, and they all leave a film. If you are against spraying neem oil in flower, then you really won't like fish oil. 

And out of all the different oils I've tried neem work just as good if not much better than some, and seems to leave less of a footprint (even if used in flower) Here's a neem based product which isn't organic but works really well, and is much cheaper than hydro store snake oil. Ferti-Lome


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## tekdc911 (Jun 9, 2013)

ive had old timers tell me to mix neem water and a few drops of dish soap 
i would assume the dish soap is to break up the oils so they dont leave as thick a film
never tried it


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## tekdc911 (Jun 9, 2013)

Ok so having problems with on of my babies
i know this strain is a cal-mag whore and have been supplementing at 1/2 str cal-mag 
doesnt seem to be enough 
What you guys think ?

Its worse on older leaves 
i do have gnats but its not like crazy i see one or 2 every couple of days 
and its only this plant 
so ive eliminated pests





 <~~~ i asked that dude and he didnt know WTF i was talking about


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 9, 2013)

Can try adding some epsom salts as a different source of mag

Lil buddy is just posted up there chillin lol. That you grow room guard?


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## tekdc911 (Jun 9, 2013)

i have 3 of them 
i got them for my chick but they bonded with me 
they live for like 15-20 years 
and thats the mean one lol but he's my little buddy 
raids the grow box


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## tekdc911 (Jun 9, 2013)

and i upped the dose to full str on cal-mag not to big in salts but if this doesnt work i will give it a shot
i been giving them all thrive-alive b1 
i thought that was like super thrive isnt that just epsom
EDIT thrive-alive b1 organic is just a kelp,B1,and natural fertilizer is what it says


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## technical dan (Jun 10, 2013)

yes neem + (hot) water + dish soap will create a film where it is sprayed it works well and is one method I use to combat/ control insects


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## fanofpanic (Jun 10, 2013)

tekdc911 said:


> ive had old timers tell me to mix neem water and a few drops of dish soap
> i would assume the dish soap is to break up the oils so they dont leave as thick a film
> never tried it


Only method i've ever known to use and works like a charm, especially as a preventative measure...just be careful with the amount of dish soap and use organic and/or non perfumed if possible.


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 12, 2013)

s0lumn said:


> has this not been stickied yet?


Hopefully soon it will be mate, would be a great first sticky for the Autoflower forum


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 13, 2013)

LED guys whats your thought on this



> *I was wondering, will a 90 watt UFO LED light replace a 400 watt HPS [High-pressure sodium]? I have read a little bit online but I can't seem to get a straight answer. *
> *Thanks,*
> _Looking for LED Answers_
> 
> ...


Got that from a diff site.


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## technical dan (Jun 13, 2013)

fanofpanic said:


> Only method i've ever known to use and works like a charm, especially as a preventative measure...just be careful with the amount of dish soap and use organic and/or non perfumed if possible.


yep and spray/ apply after watering


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 13, 2013)

technical dan said:


> yep and spray/ apply after watering


but not under the hot bright HID's, droplets of water can act like a little magnifying glass and can burn holes in your babies


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## technical dan (Jun 13, 2013)

technical dan said:


> View attachment 2663070


white widow auto +3 weeks


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## technical dan (Jun 13, 2013)

only spray it on the top of the soil/ substrate. do not spray dish soap on to the leaves or use in folair feeding, the film will coat the leaves n stomata and choke the plant. Some people spray neem on leaves for bug problems in veg but neem oil sticks around so I only spray it on top of the substrate. You do not want to spray neem oil on a flowering plant first the neem will stay around and be on your buds when you harvest and it can also herm plants by preventing gas exchange


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 13, 2013)

Was just reading this, it talks about neem, i never used the stuff myself. Only bug prob i had was a few years back before i stopped growing for a bit. White flies came in and made themselves home. Was almost harvest tme so i didnt care too much. But anyway heres the info 



> One of the most counterproductive aspects of growing high-quality medical marijuana is the use of insecticides and fungicides. Growers whose primary concern is producing a quality medicine for their patients understand the dangers of spraying toxic chemicals onto plant material that will eventually be consumed. Yet even the most meticulous growers find themselves batting unwanted pathogens at some point in their growing careers and it becomes inevitable that they must treat their gardens with something. This is why so many of them are looking to natural and organic pesticides that breakdown quickly and are safe for human consumption.
> A popular natural treatment used by medical marijuana growers is neem oil. For years growers have been using neem oil as a treatment for various insects and fungus. More recently the active ingredient in neem, azadirachtin, has been isolated and used as the active ingredient in many commercially available pesticides. What really makes azadirachtin so effective is the way it works.
> Azadirachtin is an organic substance that belongs to the class of organic molecules classified as tetranortriterpenoids. Azadirachtin is structurally similar to insect hormones called ecdysones. Ecdysones are the hormones that control the process of metamorphosis as the insect changes from larva to pupa to adult. Although they don&#8217;t know for sure, scientists believe azadirachtin acts as a &#8220;ecdysone blocker.&#8221; Because azadirachtin disrupts the unique role ecdysones play in metamorphosis, the insects are unable to molt and their life cycle is broken. Azadirachtin also works as a feeding deterrent. Many insect varieties seem to be able to sense the azadirachtin on the plants and refuse to feed.
> Products that contain azadirachtin are a great choice for the conscientious medical marijuana grower. If you choose to go the azadirachtin route, there are a few things you should be aware of. First, azadirachtin is not a contact killer like many other insecticides. The insects must absorb or ingest some of the compound to be affected. Depending on the particular pest&#8217;s life cycle it could take as long as 5-7 days to see the results from the first treatment.
> Another important thing to note when using azadirachtin is that multiple treatments are usually required for complete eradication. This is especially true when there is a serious pest infestation. Plan on treating your garden at least three times, usually with three to seven days between treatments. For total coverage, an atomizer sprayer works best. Watch for leaves that appear wrinkled as this is a sign that the stomata are getting clogged. If this occurs, rinse the leaves with luke warm water and then continue the treatment program once the leaves appear normal again.


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 13, 2013)

Found this interesting




> *Why pH Effects Nutrient Uptake In Medical Marijuana*
> 
> 
> Hydroponic medical marijuana growers have heard of and probably seen the effect pH has on a plant&#8217;s ability to uptake nutrients (and therefore grow), but few hydroponic growers understand why the pH directly affects nutrient uptake. The pH range of your water, nutrients and medium all play a direct role in your plant&#8217;s ability to absorb macro, micro, secondary nutrients and carbohydrates. As with most important factors associated with hydroponic growing, the effects of pH can be seen in the building blocks of cellular growth: the proteins, amino acids and microorganisms.
> ...


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 13, 2013)

Lol dick hash? No thanks



> *Hash* is the most ancient cannabis concentrate and probably the most widely used. At one point in the Middle East, hash was made by making slaves run naked through the cannabis fields and then scraping their bodies for all collected product. Ouch! Nowadays, most hash is being made using a process called cold water extraction, but can be as simple as pressing the kief into solid form.


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## greengo22 (Jun 13, 2013)

does anyone have any advise on using ECO bulbs 300watts ??


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## WattSaver (Jun 13, 2013)

technical dan said:


> only spray it on the top of the soil/ substrate. do not spray dish soap on to the leaves or use in folair feeding, the film will coat the leaves n stomata and choke the plant. Some people spray neem on leaves for bug problems in veg but neem oil sticks around so I only spray it on top of the substrate. You do not want to spray neem oil on a flowering plant first the neem will stay around and be on your buds when you harvest and it can also herm plants by preventing gas exchange


Wrong,,,, neem will not cause hermi's. It's a natural plant polish that's been around for centuries. The plant can breath through the neem oil. I spray it on my plants weekly from the 1st real node to the end of wk 1 of flower, and have never had a hermi. Hermi's are mainy genetic, I've tried several times to herm a stable strain, because they were clone only, and I haven't succeeded yet, always ended up using chemicals.

It does no good to spray the soil with neem to fight bugs, the oil needs to be sprayed directly onto the bugs to be effective. They can crawl all over a coated plant if they were not coated during the spray.


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## fanofpanic (Jun 13, 2013)

really this is the first time i've heard of einstein oil...given the name it must be super intelligent, but from what I gather and have read it's the more pure form of neem oil...cold pressed, blah, blah, blah...
let me think in forms of olive oil...first press cold press is extra virgin (einstein oil), which is used for gourmet cooking...virgin or regular olive oil (neem oil) is used in general cooking...the price difference? about 3 or 4 dollars a half liter...as far as chemicals being used to extract the oil i think you can pretty much believe noone.
i prefer the cheaper version for pest control...just like general cooking...same taste, quality but maybe not the highest standards...I guess it depends on what you're trying to accomplish...but in any event don't get sucked into the hype...sooner or later, we'll have the einstein oil vendors knocking at our doors.


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 13, 2013)

I tend to post things that are not related to AF's I know, but its good info. Heres a link its not really about growing just a message from IMO one of the greater breeders of our time Subcool of TGA subcool seeds. Very cool guy, he is everything a breeder should be.

He also has a "semi hidden" forum on here in the organics section 

https://www.rollitup.org/subcools-old-school-organics/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=vP8SCvOxVyc#!

I dont believe he does many AF's (if any) but if anyone isnt sure which breeder to go to for a photo strain TGA subcool seeds are top notch!


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## technical dan (Jun 14, 2013)

I have not tried spraying or misting the leaves so you could be right about it not causing problems. I have only used it to fight and prevent fungus gnats who IME didnt really hang out of the plant a whole lot. 
and yes true hermies are due to genetics I was thinking more along the lines of stressing some nanners onto a female rather than a plant that readily expresses both sexes.


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## EZmooover (Jun 14, 2013)

Why is there never any discussion on a dominant (or multiple dominants) ruderalis strain?

Is it just "ruderalis"?

Are there any studies done on specific ruderalis strains???

There's a zillion indica and sativa strains/hybrids, but nothing on ruderalis except that we all accept that a ruderalis genetics can force a transfer of photo, biannual growing into finite time, annual growing.

Is there an auto, ruderalis strain/parent that is better at locking in a timeline and also securing photo attributes than another ruderalis strain?

Why are indicas and sativas viewed as being so diverse in breeding and cross breeding, but ruderalis is just all the same ruderalis? Are they all exactly the same??????


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 14, 2013)

Rud's contain very little THC but does have the auto flower power. Thats why it needs to be combined with a sativa or indica



> Autoflowring cannabis is the third and smallest specie of the cannabis genus, which includes cannabis Sativa and cannabis Indica, this third specie is also called cannabis ruderalis / autoflower / auto cannabis / automatic cannabis.
> 
> So what is autoflowering cannabis? It means that this variety of cannabis will automatically flower under almost any light, that means that autoflowering cannabis plants don&#8217;t need the 12/12 light cycle to start producing flowers and they can grow under 24 hours of light from seed to harvest.
> 
> ...


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## EZmooover (Jun 14, 2013)

Doesn't really answer any of my questions. I understand how ruderalis... the species... functions. I was basically asking if any dominant ruderalis... strains... have been isolated.

In other words... identifying a *specific ruderalis strain *that absolutely locks in a specific timeline and/or does best to retain the qualities of the indica/sativa genetics.


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## RevolutionaryMiMi (Jun 14, 2013)

Fenian Brotherhood said:


> Awesome
> 
> 
> I'll start.
> ...




awww man, i started my seeds in some small 3 inch pots thought i could transplant before they took up all the soil...


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 14, 2013)

RevolutionaryMiMi said:


> awww man, i started my seeds in some small 3 inch pots thought i could transplant before they took up all the soil...



How far along are ya bud? Got a few auto's now trying em out doing different things. The one i did transplant was the best looking plant so i put it in a bigger pot just for kicks, when i repotted i did NOT cut any roots cause that would just really shock the girl. The next day she grew even more then the day before and i lst'd her, the day after had to pin her down again cause she kept growing. I believe if you do it early enough and dont cut the roots and be gentle you will be ok. If anything repot now bud get it over with.. Sooner the better, unless they are flowering then ehh this one might be a wash for ya.


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## technical dan (Jun 15, 2013)

yep you can get away with a clean transplant at or before 2 weeks old and the plant should be fine. But that is for a clean transplant, if you significantly damage the rhizome/ roots it will limit the plant's development.


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 15, 2013)

I transplanted it like right at the 2 week mark too


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## potpimp (Jun 15, 2013)

Subbed!!!!


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## Brotherdoses (Jun 15, 2013)

Just wanted to share a idea to get around not transplanting autos. My girl friend and I grew a auto this vegg cycle with some other plants and to avoid transplanting it we started the seed in a strawberry basket. When it came time to transplant we just planted the plant and basket together in a smart pot. Next time I will just start in a 2 or 3 gallon but if your in a squeeze for space this may do the trick. It did for us.


.View attachment 2700934View attachment 2700935


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 15, 2013)

Thats actually a pretty nifty idea there i never though of the strawberry containers.


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 16, 2013)

*200th post = Mine

Tip of the day: Dont forget to love! *


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 16, 2013)

*For the bum bum's that keep saying i never grew nothing, this came from one of my last grow's before i had to stop for a while. Its just my flower room nothing special, honestly i thought i lost these when my other hard drive pooped out. Thank god for being bored on a sunday and going through your puter!!






     

     

   

    

    


Hope this helps the nay-sayers that want me to produce pics but they themselves cant do the same.*


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 16, 2013)

Guess what time it is?


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## fanofpanic (Jun 16, 2013)

Just to add something about neem oil...neem is a preventative measure. Generally, you should use neem when you have a threat but not a full blown invasion. Neem oil acts as an inhibitor in the sense that it stops the insects' reproductive cycle, thus causing them to eat less and not breed anymore. It does not kill the insect per se, just stops the insect from breeding and then also from eating since they have, at this point, nothing to live for. So, if you see a little problem beginning to develop, then get a little neem oil, some organic, non-scented dish soap, water and a spray bottle. Mix it up ( i use a drop of dish soap, 1 teaspoon of neem and 1 liter of water), spray it on and wait. Sometimes, the problem is deeper that you think, like in the soil and not just on the surface. If this is the case, I guess you'll have to go the insecticide route (i did on my first grow). The neem also works well when used from the beginning of the grow. Obviously, not when the little girl is one inch tall, but once a couple of nodes have started. It really stops a lot of aphids, spider mites and gnats. But be warned, it doesn't exactly smell like roses...more like a 12 hour train ride in India.


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## tekdc911 (Jun 16, 2013)

Himalaya blue diesel Short stuffLa frutta di venus Delicious seeds Afghan kush ryder World of seeds toppedgroup pic afghan kush ryder lst'd both akr's are same age for a side by side 

everyone else was posting baby pics


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 17, 2013)

Tip of the day:

Enjoy life (watch at least the first 5 minutes.)

[video=youtube;i9mkV31wQEQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i9mkV31wQEQ[/video]

Cant get much better then that..


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## 70sdiver (Jun 17, 2013)

Taviddude said:


> Don't run 12/12.
> 
> BLAZE the with as much light as possible for at least 18 hours a day.
> Personally I say stay away from CFL unless you plant to really BLAZE them with a TON of watts and train your plants well.
> ...


There some great sativa dominant auto strains that can finish in 60 days.I'm not so sure you can't get just as hard a nuggs from floro's as hps especially when your looking at 400 watt hps.I can get some serious hard nuggs and yields from 462 watt t-5 ho's,probably better than 95 percent of my 400 watt hps grows.I'd even venture to say that my 600 watt hps can only do as good as my t-5's.


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 18, 2013)

Guess what? This is my 2k post 

After so many years and I just want to CEL-E-BRATE!!!

[video=youtube;eLwkT5vAzCE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eLwkT5vAzCE[/video]


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 18, 2013)

Pretty cool vid if you can follow it.

[video=youtube;hj_WKgnL6MI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&amp;v=hj_WKgnL6MI[/video]


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 18, 2013)

Heres something fun to try out, i got it from an old post a long time ago, figure i recreate it and see what we can do with Autoflowers. Its called the Hempy Bucket

View attachment 2704758


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## RevolutionaryMiMi (Jun 19, 2013)

Jeffdogg said:


> How far along are ya bud? Got a few auto's now trying em out doing different things. The one i did transplant was the best looking plant so i put it in a bigger pot just for kicks, when i repotted i did NOT cut any roots cause that would just really shock the girl. The next day she grew even more then the day before and i lst'd her, the day after had to pin her down again cause she kept growing. I believe if you do it early enough and dont cut the roots and be gentle you will be ok. If anything repot now bud get it over with.. Sooner the better, unless they are flowering then ehh this one might be a wash for ya.



well i transplanted tonight, one of the babies i accidently ripped the bottom of a couple of the roots that i didnt realize how deep the plant grew.... (the 4 to the right of the clay pot were my transplantees) that was the first one i did so the other three i was super careful... we shall see.... thanks for the reply


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 19, 2013)

You'll be fine, might not be what it could of but dont give up.


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 20, 2013)

If you had the choise to customize your LED panel, What spectrum's/nanameters and angle would you pick and why? Please use this form, you use paint to add text 

View attachment 2706603


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## Jeffdogg (Jun 22, 2013)

Why activated carbon for odor control?



> *Activated carbon*, also called *activated charcoal*, *activated coal*, or *carbo activatus*, is a form of carbon processed to be riddled with small, low-volume pores that increase the surface area available for adsorption or chemical reactions.[SUP][1][/SUP] _Activated_ is sometimes substituted with _active_.


Thats why, always make sure your filter has ACTIVATED carbon. They use other stuff to (usually burnt up cocoshell husk and wood) thats crap dont fall for it!!


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## CoolDudeStuff (Jun 22, 2013)

Great posts Jeff, thanks, really solved many (noob) questions!!


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## WattSaver (Jun 23, 2013)

Jeffdogg said:


> Heres something fun to try out, i got it from an old post a long time ago, figure i recreate it and see what we can do with Autoflowers. Its called the Hempy Bucket
> 
> View attachment 2704758


I've been growing in hempy buckets for more than 3yrs now, and it's a bit simpler now. Just drill a 1/2" hole in the side of the bucket 2" up from the bottom. Follow the link in my sig I've got 3 auto outdoor hempy buckets going right now.


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## redzi (Jun 30, 2013)

While back I dropped a few seeds and was pissed because I like to know what strain Im growing but then remembered the 6 seeds I dropped were 4 reg super silver haze and 2 freebie autos....SSH had trichs that could blind, the autos had nothing. That was a few years ago and with an open mind I let a Kanabia auto freebie do its thing but after a month decided it needed to die. AUTOS SUCK


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## tekdc911 (Jun 30, 2013)

i may have been harsh in calling SSH ditchweed 
it is the base for many good strains but IMO the SSH is only good for breeding stock 
its to easy to smoke yourself sober on 
and worthless to me for that reason


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## Jeffdogg (Jul 1, 2013)

midowo said:


> WOW this is a great resource for autoflower growers and I am honored that two of my articles about LST got mentioned here!
> I write the autoflower blog on www.autoflowering-cannabis.com and I think my complete autoflower grow guide can help many newcomers -> http://www.autoflowering-cannabis.com/complete-autoflowering-plant-grow-guide.html
> I liked the autoflower history posts , but I don't think anyone mentioned the Return of the ruderalis post http://www.cannabisculture.com/articles/3033.html as it is also a good read.
> Will subscribe and hope to also contribute to this amazing thread.



Hell nice to meet somebody i quote from on different sites, the honor is mine  Please help contribute anything you think will help. Ive been away for few days but gonna push all the info to the last page here in a few hours or so. 

Welcome to RIU btw


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## Jeffdogg (Jul 1, 2013)

potpimp said:


> I would have deleted it but it's not in my forum.


Maybe ill go nag sunni


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## Aroe209 (Jul 2, 2013)

First off. I do not know the strain of this female but its one of many from a medical marijuana seed mix.. I planted a couple but this one caught my attention because of how fast it flowered. Its being outdoor grown in the ground, its about 2 n a half months old and nice skinny bladed leaves, like the trait of a sativa. its calixes are nice and covered in trichromes as wel as some of the inner leaves. It still has plenty of time to live but check out some of the pictures I will be putting up as she gets older.. 



Comments please.


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## midowo (Jul 20, 2013)

Hi there, Why is no one posting on this thread anymore? I wanted to show these nutrient that I hound that regulate the PH of any water to a perfect level. has anybody used them? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ElpsVkIHPUc they sound amazing!


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## beginner420 (Jul 27, 2013)

How is this thread not stickied yet? I keep finding myself wanting to read this but can be hard to find sometimes when it keeps getting moved further back in the Autoflower section. Im sure theres lots of people that could use this info but dont know it exists because its a few pages back


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## tekdc911 (Jul 28, 2013)

beginner420 said:


> How is this thread not stickied yet? I keep finding myself wanting to read this but can be hard to find sometimes when it keeps getting moved further back in the Autoflower section. Im sure theres lots of people that could use this info but dont know it exists because its a few pages back


if you want this stickied then people need to start asking the moderators to do so


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## tekdc911 (Jul 28, 2013)

Aroe209 said:


> First off. I do not know the strain of this female but its one of many from a medical marijuana seed mix.. I planted a couple but this one caught my attention because of how fast it flowered. Its being outdoor grown in the ground, its about 2 n a half months old and nice skinny bladed leaves, like the trait of a sativa. its calixes are nice and covered in trichromes as wel as some of the inner leaves. It still has plenty of time to live but check out some of the pictures I will be putting up as she gets older..
> 
> 
> 
> Comments please.


2 1/2 months 
is actually a longer veg then most auto's
white widow from dinafem takes usually that long to start flowering 
but others will start in as little as a month


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## beginner420 (Jul 28, 2013)

tekdc911 said:


> if you want this stickied then people need to start asking the moderators to do so


How do you do that? Haha


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## tekdc911 (Jul 28, 2013)

beginner420 said:


> How do you do that? Haha


send a private message to a mod >.< ?
well believe it or not the moderators are people too 
with there own working mailboxes on RIU 

seriously though just drop them a message 
if enough people do it it will be stickied


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## beginner420 (Jul 28, 2013)

tekdc911 said:


> send a private message to a mod >.< ?
> well believe it or not the moderators are people too
> with there own working mailboxes on RIU
> 
> ...


How do you find a mod? Or does it tell you somewhere in the name?


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## tekdc911 (Jul 28, 2013)

there are a few that posted on the auto party cup contest 
had to plug the auto party 
it will say moderator under there name i think sunni possibly aknight are over the auto section dont get me to lie'n


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## themdx (Jul 28, 2013)

*thank you.......*


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## Jeffdogg (Jul 30, 2013)

I've tried asking a few, everytime I asked about getting it stickied I wouldn't get a reply and subject would change.


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## Jeffdogg (Jul 30, 2013)

beginner420 said:


> How do you find a mod? Or does it tell you somewhere in the name?


Look at the bottom of the Auto-flower strains forum it shows the names of the mods for this specific forum. Not all mods have control over all forums.

https://www.rollitup.org/auto-flowering-strains/ 



> [h=4]Forum Information and Options[/h] [h=5]Moderators of this Forum[/h]
> 
> aknight3,
> potroast,
> ...


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## beginner420 (Jul 30, 2013)

Jeffdogg said:


> Look at the bottom of the Auto-flower strains forum it shows the names of the mods for this specific forum. Not all mods have control over all forums.
> 
> https://www.rollitup.org/auto-flowering-strains/


I messages aknight and he replied saying they would take it into consideration I am going to try messaging the other mods because I think this would be a great first sticky for this section. And not fair to others to not sticky a good source of info just because they don't like one user


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## Jeffdogg (Aug 3, 2013)

Pushing all info back




> *Week 5/10~17/2013
> Never Transplant!!! Start off in the harvesting pot 3Gallon+
> 
> You Could!! Cut off the bottom to a party cup, an when the roots come out the bottom just put the Cup in the bigger Pot.
> ...


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## Jeffdogg (Aug 3, 2013)

Pushing all info back



> *Week 6/07/2013
> 
> Tip of the day: For people who suffer from gnats.
> 
> ...





> *ive had old timers tell me to mix neem water and a few drops of dish soap
> i would assume the dish soap is to break up the oils so they dont leave as thick a film
> never tried it
> 
> ...


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## Jeffdogg (Aug 3, 2013)

more info....



> *Why pH Effects Nutrient Uptake In Medical marijuana
> 
> 
> Hydroponic medical marijuana growers have heard of and probably seen the effect pH has on a plant&#8217;s ability to uptake nutrients (and therefore grow), but few hydroponic growers understand why the pH directly affects nutrient uptake. The pH range of your water, nutrients and medium all play a direct role in your plant&#8217;s ability to absorb macro, micro, secondary nutrients and carbohydrates. As with most important factors associated with hydroponic growing, the effects of pH can be seen in the building blocks of cellular growth: the proteins, amino acids and microorganisms.
> ...


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## tekdc911 (Aug 4, 2013)

is it possible for you to edit those into your original post on the thread then it would be on the first page


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## Jeffdogg (Aug 6, 2013)

tekdc911 said:


> is it possible for you to edit those into your original post on the thread then it would be on the first page


Theres no edit option to put it in my first post. I've tried before but no edit button exists


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## timlang420 (Aug 16, 2013)

your thread is exactly what i was lookin for. i recently upgraded my setup and have been considering an auto flower. ive been doin some research already but this thread looks like it should most of the info i need, much appreciated. subbed


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## timlang420 (Aug 17, 2013)

first off i gotta say thank you for the thread. ive read the first 10 pages (id be done but ive read most of the links posted, and then more on those sites) and i have a few question before i order my seeds and really commit. on page 4 there is a link to scrogging. this was very helpful because it answered a few specific questions i had. it said to build your scrog as tall as you want your plant. im used to photos were you control their height. i have no experience with autos. i want to grow them as close to 3' as i can (i have a 3x3x6.5 jardin with 400w cooltube reflector hps/mh on yo yo's) but because they flower themselves, i dont know how tall they will get (SOS website says _Sweet Tooth_ are medium hieght....?) therefore i dunno how tall to build my scrog. i know a scrog isnt necessary but tek (i think it was him) said its the "money maker", which sounds enticing. did i miss something? 

i use the paper towel method to pop my seeds. because autos have a "funny" taproot, is this method acceptable, or will it cause problems?

lastly, do you know if barneys _Sweet Tooth_ is a regular auto or a super auto? seaofseeds website doesnt say. 

sidenote- i am definitely getting some superoots airpots. may cost more but its a 1 time buy that can be used multiple times and that should increase yields, imo worth it.

once again, ima noob to autos and appreciate any advice i can get.


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## tekdc911 (Aug 17, 2013)

timlang420 said:


> first off i gotta say thank you for the thread. ive read the first 10 pages (id be done but ive read most of the links posted, and then more on those sites) and i have a few question before i order my seeds and really commit. on page 4 there is a link to scrogging. this was very helpful because it answered a few specific questions i had. it said to build your scrog as tall as you want your plant. im used to photos were you control their height. i have no experience with autos. i want to grow them as close to 3' as i can (i have a 3x3x6.5 jardin with 400w cooltube reflector hps/mh on yo yo's) but because they flower themselves, i dont know how tall they will get (SOS website says _Sweet Tooth_ are medium hieght....?) therefore i dunno how tall to build my scrog. i know a scrog isnt necessary but tek (i think it was him) said its the "money maker", which sounds enticing. did i miss something?
> 
> i use the paper towel method to pop my seeds. because autos have a "funny" taproot, is this method acceptable, or will it cause problems?
> 
> ...


sweet tooth needs 10-12 weeks to really mature but can be harvested as little as 8-9 weeks 
not really a super auto

with just a little lst you could easily stay under 3' 

my scrog is low usually 16-20 inches but not sure of the pot height youre using so this number may not be accurate 

paper towel is effective but so is just soaking your seeds and planting them or even just planting them for that matter i just plant it in the final pot and spray bottle water it


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## timlang420 (Aug 17, 2013)

tekdc911 said:


> sweet tooth needs 10-12 weeks to really mature but can be harvested as little as 8-9 weeks
> not really a super auto
> 
> with just a little lst you could easily stay under 3'
> ...


wow, im not ordering the seeds for a week, but i didnt expect such a quick response. thank you very much. i wanted to order the original amnesia auto cause of the good things you guys posted but SOS doesnt carry it. 

i use FFOF, which i believe will be too hot for the seedlings, so i plan on using the party cup method with FFLW (although im not too keen on using all organics and then putting a plastic cup in, just doesnt seem right) to avoid transplantation stress. thats why i asked bout the paper towel, cuz i dont think i can put it straight into the FFOF.

ive not used the scrog before so i will do more research on that.

great info in a great thread with excellent "tutors" of sorts...this is exactly why i joined this forum.

also, tek, whats perilite?


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## tekdc911 (Aug 17, 2013)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perlite


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## tekdc911 (Aug 17, 2013)

just put a handful of seed starter about party cup size where you're going to plant the seed 
i use soil from my last grow
and just water very lightly first couple weeks 
i use a spray bottle 
try not to soak the pot until the plant is larger 
over watering causes permanent stunting alot of times


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## timlang420 (Aug 17, 2013)

tekdc911 said:


> perlite whats that ?





tekdc911 said:


> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perlite


i was just making a joke. i read that earlier on page 3, and when jd responded with a serious answer, i thought it was funny. kinda the same way you did with me, lol. but seriously, i will be adding some perilite to my auto grow, and depending how that goes, maybe to my photos as well.

once again tho, your info is priceless. respect.


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## timlang420 (Aug 17, 2013)

tekdc911 said:


> just put a handful of seed starter about party cup size where you're going to plant the seed
> i use soil from my last grow


handful of the light warrior in middle...im kinda disappointed i didnt think of that.

why do you use soil from your last grow? i've read that its not good to do that because it has nutes from the last grow in it.


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## tekdc911 (Aug 18, 2013)

na if you flush your soil like most people do before harvest then its actually perfect for seedlings


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## tekdc911 (Aug 18, 2013)

i use soil/ soiless mix i use it a few times just add some goodies 
even on my just soil grows i can use it 2-3 times without many if any amendments 
aslong as your ph is under control your good to grow


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## timlang420 (Aug 18, 2013)

tekdc911 said:


> na if you flush your soil like most people do before harvest then its actually perfect for seedlings


i do. i use the FF soil trio, FF kangaroots & microbrew, and FF sledgehammer. flush the last two weeks before harvest. but i read a few places not to reuse soil cuz of the left over nutes, but your right, if you keep your ph constantly accurate, and flush as scheduled/needed, it makes sense that the soil should be reusable, but for seedlings? ive read that FFOF burns seedlings up (but i also read not to reuse soil & that seems to be false). ive never tried it for fear it was true, always used FF light warrior then transplanted to FFOF. def for veg & flower tho. fuck, ive had 4 grows so far and im looking back on all the soil i just dumped in my backyard....another good tip.


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## tekdc911 (Aug 18, 2013)

i have a hundred or so auto pics in my journal just pics kinda random 
i think i might of had one 
oh shit moment in the last year and that was just a nute whore i didnt catch soon enough 
6 plant perpetual only auto's for the last few years with a handful of photoperiods 
just amend it with some dolomite mix in some goodies compost or something / extra perlite /maybe some coco
i mean honestly if you're going to use nutes anyway as long as the ph remains stable and it has drainage
then the conditions are right it could be anything


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## tekdc911 (Aug 18, 2013)

forgot to add i let it dry out completely before reusing


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## tekdc911 (Aug 18, 2013)

do your leaves yellow during flush ?
if so then your plants are living off of what you have been giving them and not the soil 
otherwise they would still be getting nutes from the soil and would still be green plant wouldnt have to be using up stored nutes from the leaves


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## technical dan (Aug 18, 2013)

you should deff add perlite to your ffof that stuff seems to settle as the grow goes on n takes a while to water


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## timlang420 (Aug 18, 2013)

tekdc911 said:


> i have a hundred or so auto pics in my journal just pics kinda random
> i think i might of had one
> oh shit moment in the last year and that was just a nute whore i didnt catch soon enough
> 6 plant perpetual only auto's for the last few years with a handful of photoperiods
> ...


i read your post, where you said part of your grow room is almost 3x3, and my tent is 3x3, so ill be following your advice very closely. i grow 4 plants in my tent but thats because the pots i use a huge. plannin on getting the air-pots the pay check after i order my seeds. hopefully then i can get 6 in there.



tekdc911 said:


> do your leaves yellow during flush ?
> if so then your plants are living off of what you have been giving them and not the soil
> otherwise they would still be getting nutes from the soil and would still be green plant wouldnt have to be using up stored nutes from the leaves


not during every flush, but at the end of my harvest i let them yellow pretty good before i cut them down. i stop feeding them also for the last few weeks. 



technical dan said:


> you should deff add perlite to your ffof that stuff seems to settle as the grow goes on n takes a while to water


for real. i always find myself adding more soil after a few weeks. actually my current grow is about ready for a refill. ill def be adding more perlite next grow. i think a bag at walmart is like $5. ill look into dolomite also.


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## timlang420 (Aug 18, 2013)

tekdc911 said:


> do your leaves yellow during flush ?
> if so then your plants are living off of what you have been giving them and not the soil
> otherwise they would still be getting nutes from the soil and would still be green plant wouldnt have to be using up stored nutes from the leaves





you can see some of the leaves of this guy (pineapple chunk) are really yellow.


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## tekdc911 (Aug 18, 2013)

*You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to timlang420 again.



*


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## tekdc911 (Aug 18, 2013)

if you have a pile of old soil you can add 
egg shells .....calcium 
banana peels..... potassium 
some kind of steel, washers, nuts, bolts ,i try not to use nails because i have shitty luck ....... iron 
some kind of galvanized washer, nut ,bolt , nail ...... for zinc 
im baked and brain froze after that 

good old fashioned cow shit i mean manure/ stuff in the bag not the stuff in the field with shrooms you would have to leave fresh for a while / would have to be judged by your own discretion

dolomite or garden lime be sure its the neutral powdered for fast acting/ and pellets if you're mixing the soil in advance just add it to your little compost pile / i use a 25-30 gallon tree pot for my compost 
i just use 1-2 tablespoon a gallon of soil/soiless blend just a lil over 1 tablespoon


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## technical dan (Aug 18, 2013)

dolo is good. yeah all soils and mixes do that to some degree but ffof seems to settle and get real dense


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## RedCarpetMatches (Aug 18, 2013)

I have two Lowryder diesels that haven't showed sex yet for 28 days! One was healthy but short so I topped it and now it started growing again...just needed a boot in the ass. My other diesel is a 12" beasty mandingo so I topped that one too, and lollipopped, and supercropped, and transplanted all within a week...I know I'm going against all the auto rules psh. I'll give them a week to recover than switch them to 12/12 if sex still isnt showing at 5 weeks. started 18/6 with philips retro white CMH!Also took the clones from tops and while lollipopping.


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## timlang420 (Aug 18, 2013)

RedCarpetMatches said:


> I have two Lowryder diesels that haven't showed sex yet for 28 days! One was healthy but short so I topped it and now it started growing again...just needed a boot in the ass. My other diesel is a 12" beasty mandingo so I topped that one too, and lollipopped, and supercropped, and transplanted all within a week...I know I'm going against all the auto rules psh. I'll give them a week to recover than switch them to 12/12 if sex still isnt showing at 5 weeks. started 18/6 with philips retro white CMH!Also took the clones from tops and while lollipopping.


growing auto's and switching lights to 12/12? i thought autos didnt require a change in light schedule?


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## RedCarpetMatches (Aug 19, 2013)

sometimes they don't start flowering unless you switch them over...prob the wishy washy genetics i'm guessing. i never had this prob with autos before so i dont know how long i can go without them showing sex. btw my 3" clones from both diesel autos rooted in just 5 days! its wierd that both my autos arent showing sex.


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## bcguy01 (Aug 20, 2013)

awesome info


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## tekdc911 (Aug 23, 2013)

mokin Moose 





Australian Medical marijuana Educator




















Join DateJun 2007LocationOceaniaPosts3,819Rep Power14
















*




I prefer Radic's method but here are some other ideas*

Gibberellic acid (GA3) is a hormone that can be used to change the sex of a cannabis plant. It's most common use is to force a female plant to produce pollen which can then be crossed with a cutting from the same plant to produce seeds with the same genetic makeup of the mother plant. In this way, one can preserve the genetic traits of a particular plant without a complicated breeding program. This is done by spraying the plants with 100 ppm gibberellic acid in water for 5 consecutive days. Staminate flowers should appear within a few weeks. If not, repeat the process. This should be done early in the flowering phase, as soon as the sex of the plant is confirmed. The resulting pollen can then be saved for future fertilization of a cutting from the original mother plant. Gibberellic acid should be used only as directed and with proper precautions taken. After the final application, mist the plants with water often to remove any residue before drying and smoking the buds.
*
If a chemical stress is something you'd still prefer...uncoated aspirin (salicylic acid) works just as good, and is much cheaper than GA, too. One aspirin per quart of ph'd water...two or three waterings in a row. (per your normal watering schedule) Nanners usually take a week to 10 days to form. *

For insiders: the change from the first to the second internode flowering is the best moment for treatment. 

*July/August 1993
Story Title: Gibberellins - Plant Growth Hormones
Author: Leo Wright
*
The power of gibberellins to accelerate growth, and to induce or promote flowering, continues to fascinate both amateur botanists and commercial flower growers. One gibberellin is gibberellic acid, a natural hormone that can be readily extracted from common plants.

Auxins, cytokinins and gibberellins are the principle growth-promoting hormones found in plants. All three control, stimulate, inhibit or alter a plant's development to one degree or another, depending upon the external environment. Auxins tend to promote rooting, leaf and fruit retention and directional growth; and cytokinins promote active cell mitosis, ion transport and general plant vigour. Gibberellins are noted as the most powerful of the growth promotors because they , increase internode spacing, induce and promote flowering in many plants, and modify the flower sex expression in some plants.

Investigations in Japan in the 1920's of the pathogenic rice fungus Gibberella fujikuroi, which caused rice plants to grow abnormally tall, led to the eventual isolation from the fungus of several types of gibberellins or growth-promoting hormones, including Gibberellic Acid (GA-3).

Gibberellins are well known to promote uniform growth through cell enlargement. They cause plants to grow tall and elongated, with light green leaves, and also stimulate seed germination and other growth phenomena such as early flower formation.

Flower Induction and Promotion
In many plants flower formation is governed by internal factors; in other plants it is controlled by precise environmental conditions. Some plants initiate flowering after having undergone exposure to a period of cold. In nature, these cold-requiring plants usually flower in spring or early summer, after having been exposed to the cold temperatures of winter.

In other plants, flower formation depends upon day length or photoperiod. Basically, there are two principal photoperiodic plants - "long-day" plants which flower when the day length exceeds a certain minimal value which may vary from one plant to another, and "short-day" plants which exhibit the opposite behaviour, flowering in relatively short days when the photoperiod remains below a certain maximal duration.

Under these conditions, long-day plants flower in summer when the days are longer, and short-day plants flower in autumn and winter when the day length drops below the critical maximum.

Then there are plants that are described as "dual-day length" plants, where they stay vegetative if grown on continuous long day or continuous short day, but flower if exposed either first to long then short days ("long-short-day" plants), or vice versa ("short-long-day" plants). Most cold-requiring plants also have dual environmental requirement, flowering if the low-temperature treatment is followed by a long-day regime.

The phenomenon of cold requirement with regard to flower formation is called "vernalization", and that of day length control as "photoperiodism". The conditions conducive and nonconducive to flower formation in a given plant type have been termed "inductive" and "noninductive", and exposure of cold-requiring and photoperiodic plants to inductive temperatures and photoperiods are called "thermo-induction" and "photo-induction" respectively. In cold-requiring and photoperiodic plants alike, the need for induction may be absolute, whereby the plant will fail to form flowers altogether unless given inductive treatment; or it may be facultative whereby flowering will ultimately occur without induction, although with greater or lesser delay.

The use of gibberellins for cold-requiring and long-day plants can induce or promote flowering to one degree or another. Typical gibberellin responses include larger blooms, stem elongation, flower stalk elongation, and in some cases earlier flowering, which are all desirable elements to commercial flower growers.

Typical Applications
When gibberellic acid is sprayed on gardenia or geranium flowers, there is a 25% -50% increase in flower size. The treatment is used at the rate of 5 mg/L (5ppm) at the time of first colour appearance.

The flowering of cyclamens can be accelerated by 4-5 weeks with a single spray of gibberellic acid, at the rate of 50 mg/L (50ppm), 60-75 days prior to the projected flowerdate (Widmer et al. 1974). Higher concentrations will result in adversely tall and weak flower stems. More recently, Lyons and Widmer (1983) suggest applying 15 gms/L (15ppm) of gibberellic acid to the crown of the plant below the leaves, 150 days after seed is sown.

Gibberellins are popular with commercial growers to replace the cold treatment or long night treatment of plants such as azaleas to induce or force flowering. Standard cultivation techniques require flower-bud induction with about six weeks of long-night treatment. Once flower buds are established, a temperature of 7°C (45°F) or lower is required for six weeks to ensure flower bud development. After this, flowers are forced into bloom in 4-6 weeks. However, a weekly spray treatment of gibberellic acid for five weeks, at a concentration of 1000 gms/L (1000ppm), will result in earlier flowering and larger blossoms. The five consecutive weekly sprays should commence when flower buds are well developed after the short-day treatment.

Hydrangeas, another cold-requiring plant, also respond favourably to gibberellic acid. Using the same five-weekly treatment, the concentration should be reduced to 5-50gms/L (5-50ppm) to ensure earlier flowering and larger blooms.

Gibberellic acid can also be used to delay flowering and to stimulate rapid growth in plants such as geraniums and fuchsia. The treatment requires weekly sprays at the rate of 250gms/L (250ppm) for four weeks.

According to Carlson (1982), gibberellic acid can also be used to produce tree-type geraniums and fuchsia when applied at the rate of 250gms/L (250ppm) two weeks after potting, then once weekly for five weeks.

It should be noted here that the precise function of applied gibberellins to flower formation is not entirely clear since all plants react differently to treatments, and in many cases gibberellins do not promote flower formation.

Sex Expression
Flower sex expression can be modified in some plants by treating seedlings with several growth-regulating substances. With the exception of gibberellin, these substances tend to reduce the number or suppress the development of staminate flowers, and increase the number or accelerate the development of pistillate flowers. In contrast, in the case of cucumbers, gibberellins increase the number of staminate flowers on monoecious cucumbers (plants that have the stamens and the pistils in separate flowers on the same plant), and result in the formation of staminate flowers on gynoecious (female) cucumbers which would otherwise only produce pistillate flowers.

The ultimate effect of a chemical on sex expression would be a complete reversal of flower sex. To validate a flower sex reversal one would have to replace the intial staminate stage with pistillate flowers, or the pistillate stage with staminate flowers in monoecious plants. It has been found that gibberellins will increase the number of staminate flowers in monoecious cucumbers, resulting in the formation of staminate flowers on gynoecious cucumbers which would otherwise only produce pistillate flowers.

Extracting Gibberellic Acid
Although several types of gibberellin are found in plants as natural hormones, Gibberellic Acid (GA-3) is the best known. While it is a natural product of the Asian fungus that destroys rice, growth-promoting substances that are either identical with, or closely related to, gibberellic acid can also be found in common plants such as cucumber, rock melon (cantaloupe), corn, peas and beans, and it can be readily extracted in crude form by amateur botanist.

Edward Pinto, a student at St Peter's Preparatory School in Jersey City, developed a simple and inexpensive procedure for extracting gibberellic acid from common plants, which was reported in American Scientific ( August 1967). As sources of materials, he used the seeds of fresh cantaloupe (rockmelon), fresh wild cucumber, and the dry seeds of corn, peas and three species of bean - pencil rod, lupine and pinto. The cantaloupe and cucumber seeds were dried at room temperature and chopped into particles about 3mm in diameter. The procedure used 200 grams of finely chopped seeds which were soaked for seven days in a solution of acetone (10 parts by volume), isopropyl alcohol (5 parts), ethyl alcohol (2 parts), and distilled water (5 parts), to give a total volume of 110 millilitres. The solution was then poured off and the seed particles rinsed with 40 millilitres of a solution consisting of equal parts of acetone and isopropyl alcohol. The rinsing solution was then added to the first solution, and heated to a temperature of 45°C (113°F)

WARNING: it should be noted that the solution is highly flammable and must not be exposed to an open flame. The heating procedure was continued until the residue evaporated to the consistency of thin tar and was almost dry. The residue was then taken and mixed with 100 millilitres of distilled water and ethyl acetate.

According to Pinto, a key factor to extracting gibberellic acid is to raise the pH of the water to about pH8 (slightly alkaline) - at this pH the gibberellins are soluble in water. The pH was achieved by adding potassium hydroxide, or concentrated pH lower to the solution. The mixture was then shaken for two minutes, and the water drawn off and mixed with another 100 millilitres of ethyl acetate. This procedure was carried out a total of three times.

Now the water was made acidic (pH3) by the addition of hydrochloric acid - at this pH the gibberellins are soluble in ethyl acetate. The solution of acidic water was added to 100 millilitres of ethyl acetate. The water was drawn off and the procedure repeated twice more, after which the ethyl acetate solution was dried to a paste. The tarlike mass was then mixed with about 8 grams of lanolin. The lanolin paste is the final product, and it is applied to plants as a thin coat to the upper surface of each mature leaf, taking care not to damage the plant.

Conclusion
The role of plant hormones is complicated biologically and biochemically, and even today their roles are not fully understood. What works for one plant does not necessarily follow for another. In most cases it is which will signal a homonal response. When applied externally, hormones will influence the organisation of the internal chemistry of the plant cell, and the interaction among cells, but the degree of interaction will still depend upon the plant specie, the stage of plant development and the external environment.

Source: http://209.85.175.104/search?q=cache...lnk&cd=1&gl=au


Last edited by Smokin Moose; 07-16-2009 at 11:17 PM.
*Enlightened Veterinarian's Guide to Treating Pets with Medical marijuana. Dr Doug Kramer's definitive ebook "Sweet Serenity"*

Truth flows on to credibility, and credibility will be the vehicle for change
​


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## frogbrother (Aug 25, 2013)

is 62 days from seed to flower about average for auto skunk#1?...got some frosty stinky colas but im finding it hard to hackem down without knowing how much more life they got in them...I read 45-55 days flowering time ,so is that 45-55 days until flowering starts?...45-55 days from seed to finished flower?...or 45-55 days of flowering?...I never tried autos before


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## tekdc911 (Aug 25, 2013)

any pics ?


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## tekdc911 (Aug 25, 2013)

you really have to read the plant 
breeders times are earliest possible harvest 
but for yield wait a few weeks after it starts to shed fan leaves its hard to go by trichs alot of people just wait until almost all the hairs are orange


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## OrangeHaze (Aug 25, 2013)

EZmooover said:


> Why is there never any discussion on a dominant (or multiple dominants) ruderalis strain?
> 
> Is it just "ruderalis"?
> 
> ...


Ruderalis makes very little thc and it's primarily used for is durability. It's said to be a distant relative to hemp and often found where hemp used to grow.


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## tekdc911 (Aug 25, 2013)

OrangeHaze said:


> Ruderalis makes very little thc and it's primarily used for is durability. It's said to be a distant relative to hemp and often found where hemp used to grow.


the russians have been making charas and medicine out of there "ditchweed' we so aptly call autoflowers for thousands of years 
why would they if it had such little thc / cbd content that everyone claims


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## OrangeHaze (Aug 26, 2013)

I dunno, maybe it was stronger back then? I'd like to know more myself, but I was speaking of modern use. Not really a ton of info out there.


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## RedCarpetMatches (Aug 29, 2013)

Well my first go at autos has been comical. Tortured the poor things with all kinds of HST. 39 days and the fuckers still haven't started flowering!!! Just switched em to 12/12 from 18/6 last night. Lowryder reg diesels under 400w Philips CMH...hoping for a male and female.


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## midowo (Sep 5, 2013)

I guess there are two types of autoflowers, one type that is the adopted hemp strains that are usually found in urban areas where hemp field could have been grown , but there are also those real autoflowers that grow wild where no hemp has ever been grown! 
I have seen wild automatically flowering phenotypes that grow just 30 cm but others that reach two meters and NO they are not Sativa or Indica because they are ready while the light cycle is still more than 12 hours long! .. I guess they could be some semi-autoflowering plants but I also have not found any studies done on these wild varieties.


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## tekdc911 (Sep 5, 2013)

RedCarpetMatches said:


> Well my first go at autos has been comical. Tortured the poor things with all kinds of HST. 39 days and the fuckers still haven't started flowering!!! Just switched em to 12/12 from 18/6 last night. Lowryder reg diesels under 400w Philips CMH...hoping for a male and female.
> View attachment 2796583View attachment 2796584


stress can delay flowering if its good genetics 12/12 wont flip them there going to do it when ready


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## burner89 (Sep 6, 2013)

As a first time grower I am gonna try out the Asprin method and see how works. I am realizing that in my climate a good producing Auto might be the way to go. This is my first Auto, germed and sprouted all outside around july 20 and never repotted. She is about 40 days old in the pic and i plan to let her go another 6 weeks or so.


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## Jeffdogg (Sep 24, 2013)

burner89 said:


> As a first time grower I am gonna try out the Asprin method and see how works. I am realizing that in my climate a good producing Auto might be the way to go. This is my first Auto, germed and sprouted all outside around july 20 and never repotted. She is about 40 days old in the pic and i plan to let her go another 6 weeks or so.


Hows she doing? Its been almost 3 weeks


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## burner89 (Sep 24, 2013)

Lol, she is doing good. I musta been baked cause I don't remember posting in this thread. I abandoned the asprin idea in favor of breeding her with my bagseed photo strain. She had a small mold spot that i cut off. She has really beefed up and kinda smells like fruity candy.


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## tekdc911 (Sep 24, 2013)

Jeffdogg said:


> Hows she doing? Its been almost 3 weeks


long time no see bro


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## egoren (Sep 27, 2013)

Question : I would like to choose some strains for AutoFem Outdoor growing in April. I saw nice packages from Dutch passion (most expensive) , Dinafem, Paradise and Royal queen (cheapest). Each is offering a few strains : since I cant "taste" each strain before- how can I choose? I will be happy to hear some advice- _what would you choose?_


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## tekdc911 (Sep 27, 2013)

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CCwQFjAA&url=http://en.seedfinder.eu/&ei=INBFUpaQPIipqwHdtoAI&usg=AFQjCNGMueb1HT6KMzMctRC-48Up3RUP-A&sig2=JrouQjkzMVBmptNZK9o8mw&bvm=bv.53217764,d.aWM


the strain you're looking at may have already been logged in a database


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## technical dan (Sep 27, 2013)

you could also check leafly and see what some of the parental genetics are good for in terms of effects. I didnt look through all of ^ but its a similar thing


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## OrangeHaze (Sep 27, 2013)

haha I was gonna say try seedfinder but Tek is already on it.

Leafly is OK, but it's database is rather limited. I can't find a lot of strains in it. I used to use it to get smoke reports but got tired of not seeing any strains I'm lookin for.


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## tophertheB (Sep 29, 2013)

Jeffdogg said:


> Theres worms that are good for you soil, they move around and get the air to your roots. The fight isnt over till the girls lives are sucked from them. Even then lol..... They are very resilient plants, you would be surprised what happens to some growers.


On that last sentence.... my last roommates cat snuck in and ate 75% of my afghan but he recovered... only to die of 'natural causes' later lol (93 in my room over the summer).


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## tophertheB (Sep 29, 2013)

fanofpanic said:


> Just to add something about neem oil...neem is a preventative measure. Generally, you should use neem when you have a threat but not a full blown invasion. Neem oil acts as an inhibitor in the sense that it stops the insects' reproductive cycle, thus causing them to eat less and not breed anymore. It does not kill the insect per se, just stops the insect from breeding and then also from eating since they have, at this point, nothing to live for. So, if you see a little problem beginning to develop, then get a little neem oil, some organic, non-scented dish soap, water and a spray bottle. Mix it up ( i use a drop of dish soap, 1 teaspoon of neem and 1 liter of water), spray it on and wait. Sometimes, the problem is deeper that you think, like in the soil and not just on the surface. If this is the case, I guess you'll have to go the insecticide route (i did on my first grow). The neem also works well when used from the beginning of the grow. Obviously, not when the little girl is one inch tall, but once a couple of nodes have started. It really stops a lot of aphids, spider mites and gnats. But be warned, it doesn't exactly smell like roses...more like a 12 hour train ride in India.


I do want to say I have done this also, DO not spray the neem on with the lights on.  Unless you want fried bud nuggets, then its okay kinda like fried oreos and twinkies. You know what I'm sayin'? mmm hungry


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## technical dan (Sep 30, 2013)

technical dan said:


> white widow auto +3 weeks View attachment 2697757View attachment 2697758


this plant is all jarred up now and looked like this as/ when it finished


1.5 zips dry + about 7 grams cut off early due to mold n mold prevention


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## Jeffdogg (Oct 21, 2013)

tekdc911 said:


> long time no see bro


Yeah its been a while brotha, how have things been?


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## Jeffdogg (Oct 21, 2013)

tophertheB said:


> On that last sentence.... my last roommates cat snuck in and ate 75% of my afghan but he recovered... only to die of 'natural causes' later lol (93 in my room over the summer).


Thats nuts that cat must of been baked. Prob wasn't dead just in a very deep sleep with low pulse lol 

I was looking for a high cat that looked dead pic but came across this video and posting it in its place... LOL WTF

[video]http://www.funnyordie.com/videos/4cdee1ed0f/stoned-cat-watches-hockey[/video]


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## tekdc911 (Oct 21, 2013)

been going good @ jeff 
my purple haze has about filled my 2x3 scrog up about ready to flip it and the one clone that made it last time i tried
im doing some breeding ATM hope it all takes so i have some new crosses to play with after the 3 months or so it takes to flower this haze out


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## Gnostic Nomad (Oct 23, 2013)

I going to be trying to grow using the least amount of resources. To do this, as of right now, I want to grow auto-flowering cannabis strains in a Volksgarden with a HydroGrow Vertical LED Light and fertilizing with Nature's Source Organic Plant Food. As far as I can tell, the LED combined with Nature's source, as well as the natural affect of geotropism will cause the plant to remain as short and dense as possible, which is desirable since the Volksgarden has only two feet of growing space. I essentially want the densest possible plants to be converted into oil, with a Tamisium Extractor. The oil will be donated to a medical cannabis club.

I haven't started yet, so i can change the plan in anyway. Just looking for advice and I figured this is an advanced enough technique that this would be the correct forum for it.

I don't care about the initial investment, I care about using the least amount of water, light, nutrients, and space. 

btw, this is not my first grow, I've never posted to RIU before but that doesn't mean i don't know what I'm doing, I've just got this idea that i think would work well but haven't actually tried it out...


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## Jeffdogg (Oct 28, 2013)

Sorry for my absence, been going through a lot. This past month has just been great and getting better, I stopped by here and there. Ive seen your good doings in this thread Tek thx for keeping some life in it and thx to all who have helped and visited this thread. Its time for a return BUMP 



> *Week 5/10~17/2013
> Never Transplant!!! Start off in the harvesting pot 3Gallon+
> 
> You Could!! Cut off the bottom to a party cup, an when the roots come out the bottom just put the Cup in the bigger Pot.
> ...


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## Jeffdogg (Oct 28, 2013)

Bumpy bump 



> *Week 6/07/2013
> 
> Tip of the day: For people who suffer from gnats.
> 
> ...


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## Jeffdogg (Oct 28, 2013)

Theres that bump again



> *Why pH Effects Nutrient Uptake In Medical marijuana
> 
> 
> Hydroponic medical marijuana growers have heard of and probably seen the effect pH has on a plants ability to uptake nutrients (and therefore grow), but few hydroponic growers understand why the pH directly affects nutrient uptake. The pH range of your water, nutrients and medium all play a direct role in your plants ability to absorb macro, micro, secondary nutrients and carbohydrates. As with most important factors associated with hydroponic growing, the effects of pH can be seen in the building blocks of cellular growth: the proteins, amino acids and microorganisms.
> ...


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## Jeffdogg (Oct 28, 2013)

*Tekdc911's Class*


*sweet tooth needs 10-12 weeks to really mature but can be harvested as little as 8-9 weeks 
not really a super auto

with just a little lst you could easily stay under 3' 

my scrog is low usually 16-20 inches but not sure of the pot height youre using so this number may not be accurate 

paper towel is effective but so is just soaking your seeds and planting them or even just planting them for that matter i just plant it in the final pot and spray bottle water it 

**just put a handful of seed starter about party cup size where you're going to plant the seed 
i use soil from my last grow
and just water very lightly first couple weeks 
i use a spray bottle 
try not to soak the pot until the plant is larger 
over watering causes permanent stunting alot of times 

**na if you flush your soil like most people do before harvest then its actually perfect for seedlings 

**i use soil/ soiless mix i use it a few times just add some goodies 
even on my just soil grows i can use it 2-3 times without many if any amendments 
aslong as your ph is under control your good to grow 

**do your leaves yellow during flush ?
if so then your plants are living off of what you have been giving them and not the soil 
otherwise they would still be getting nutes from the soil and would still be green plant wouldnt have to be using up stored nutes from the leaves 

**if you have a pile of old soil you can add 
egg shells .....calcium 
banana peels..... potassium 
some kind of steel, washers, nuts, bolts ,i try not to use nails because i have shitty luck ....... iron 
some kind of galvanized washer, nut ,bolt , nail ...... for zinc 
im baked and brain froze after that 

good old fashioned cow shit i mean manure/ stuff in the bag not the stuff in the field with shrooms you would have to leave fresh for a while / would have to be judged by your own discretion

dolomite or garden lime be sure its the neutral powdered for fast acting/ and pellets if you're mixing the soil in advance just add it to your little compost pile / i use a 25-30 gallon tree pot for my compost 
i just use 1-2 tablespoon a gallon of soil/soiless blend just a lil over 1 tablespoon 

**you really have to read the plant 
breeders times are earliest possible harvest 
but for yield wait a few weeks after it starts to shed fan leaves its hard to go by trichs alot of people just wait until almost all the hairs are orange 

**stress can delay flowering if its good genetics 12/12 wont flip them there going to do it when ready 

*


> Australian Medical marijuana Educator
> 
> 
> 
> ...


*
*


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## Jeffdogg (Oct 28, 2013)

Should play this for your plants 

[video=youtube;psuRGfAaju4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=psuRGfAaju4[/video]


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## tekdc911 (Oct 29, 2013)

im straightening out my loose ends Jeff 
and im probably not going to be on for a while i really loved this site after my autoflower.net nightmare i figured this would be a place to lay some roots down but im tired of seeing people get banned or threads just disappearing for advertising claims 
or for what ever reason one of the disgruntled mods feel is correct 

ill send you my email in a message if you want to shoot the shit or something


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## Jeffdogg (Oct 29, 2013)

tekdc911 said:


> im straightening out my loose ends Jeff
> and im probably not going to be on for a while i really loved this site after my autoflower.net nightmare i figured this would be a place to lay some roots down but im tired of seeing people get banned or threads just disappearing for advertising claims
> or for what ever reason one of the disgruntled mods feel is correct
> 
> ill send you my email in a message if you want to shoot the shit or something


That was actually one of the reasons i stayed away for a bit, got some power hungry mods that do as they please instead of doing whats right. (not talking bout you PotPimp  ). For sure message me that email, maybe we can find a new home. This site was great a few years back when it was thriving. Too bad its going to shit.

P.S. Deleting this only proves I am right


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## Jeffdogg (Oct 29, 2013)

To you RIU

[video=youtube;1F6vrHfdtd0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1F6vrHfdtd0[/video]


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## bcguy01 (Oct 29, 2013)

Great info


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## tekdc911 (Oct 30, 2013)

lol @ the vid 

that other site doesnt even have a autoflower section so i messaged the admins and threw out my portfolio 
told them im a self proclaimed atuoflower guru >.< guess we will see what happens


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## Jeffdogg (Oct 31, 2013)

tekdc911 said:


> lol @ the vid
> 
> that other site doesnt even have a autoflower section so i messaged the admins and threw out my portfolio
> told them im a self proclaimed atuoflower guru >.< guess we will see what happens



Yeah all I could find on there was a sub-forum/thread called "Autoflower strains", Your def an AF guru if i ever saw one mate


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## tekdc911 (Oct 31, 2013)

ya and it was a question 
" are there any auto's that are stable enough to breed ?"
lol those peeps will be like fred flintsone in the bat mobile if i start a thread over there >.< i thought from a glance that it was behind the trends but its still in the stone ages


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## tekdc911 (Oct 31, 2013)

thctalk has my attention at the moment i havent joined up yet seems to be heavy traffic


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## Richie Bud (Nov 1, 2013)

great thread man. I too have toped auto's in the past an auto northern light I was told it will mess up your grow on so many sites But being a stubborn bastard I wanted to give it a try. I was really surprised By her she gave me 2.6 dry of her under 300w cfl I have 4 expert seeds auto northern lights and a world of seeds Northern light x Big bud I got free with the N.L I have them under 800w CFL's. I am thinking of topping one see how she does and take it from there if she does well I will do it with my whole next grow


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## OrangeHaze (Nov 2, 2013)

shit man, if you leave, pm me where ur heading, you always got the knowledge and I really only wanna do autos


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## Jeffdogg (Nov 4, 2013)

Found this interesting



> Light is the small segment of electromagnetic radiation that humans can see. All the colors of the rainbow are represented within this segment or region. If all the parts of the light are there, the light seems to be white. Light can also be split apart, as sometimes can be seen when it shines through a water droplet or a glass prism. It is possible to see the different colors when this happens. The most famous example of this is the rainbow, for which the light is split apart by water droplets in the air.
> The radiation just outside the violet side of the spectrum are the ultraviolet (usually abbreviated as "UV") rays which cause sunburns, and the infra-red radiation just outside the red side of the spectrum is felt as heat. Other radiation on this same spectrum outside of the visible light range include x-rays, microwaves, and radio waves.​ There are several ways to measure light. For the purposes of choosing *lighting for horticulture*, there are two important measurements: wavelength and intensity.
> Wavelength is measured in nanometers. A nanometer is a billionth of a meter, and is usually abbreviated as "nm". Each color has a range of wavelengths. The part of the spectrum that plants can use makes up the "Photosynthetically Active Radiation" or "PAR" region of the spectrum, (Eskins, K., 1992 and online 2006) and this is generally agreed to be the range of 400-700nm. (Vass, I., Szilard, A., & Sicora, C., 2005)
> The intensity of light is measured in lux. A lux is the amount of light a single candle gives off, for a distance of one meter. The word comes from the Latin word for "light."
> ...


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## robbyie66 (Nov 5, 2013)

I think I would chalk that plant as f up11 yank it start fresh nice new strain!! my opion.


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## Jeffdogg (Nov 6, 2013)

robbyie66 said:


> I think I would chalk that plant as f up11 yank it start fresh nice new strain!! my opion.


What are you talking about man?


----------



## Jeffdogg (Nov 12, 2013)

gonna be doing a grow with 5 Sweet tooth auto in 2gal equivalent air pots in a couple weeks. (there will be some photo's in there too) cant wait to see how the air pots work out 

[video=youtube;wHhZeeTrfs0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wHhZeeTrfs0[/video]


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## TheHazeyMan (Nov 12, 2013)

Jeffdogg said:


> gonna be doing a grow with 5 Sweet tooth auto in 2gal equivalent air pots in a couple weeks. (there will be some photo's in there too) cant wait to see how the air pots work out
> 
> [video=youtube;wHhZeeTrfs0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wHhZeeTrfs0[/video]


I would like to try these out next time around. I just finished up three Sensi Skunk #1 Autos and three Sensi NL Autos as well, ended up pulling just under 600 grams from all of them on my first real grow, with the right genetics, autos can be producers, still need a little help on the potency, both strains are fire don't get me wrong, but they aren't as stronger as their mother plants. Will probably do a bunch of OG variants next time around (Skywalker OG, Kosher Kush, Sour Kush, Headband 818, Tahoe OG) and possibly Cali Conn's Chem 91 sk va. Got the OG Itch bad!


----------



## Jeffdogg (Nov 12, 2013)

Hey 600g is a nice haul grats my friend . Yeah the air pots are fantastic from what i hear. Gonna use voodoo juice as well so my roots should be looking good


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## Jeffdogg (Nov 12, 2013)

Bout time you should get yourself an avatar aye Hazey?


----------



## TheHazeyMan (Nov 12, 2013)

I swear by the Voodoo Juice and Piranha. I will never grow without them again, they are absolutely amazing.


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## Jeffdogg (Nov 12, 2013)

Yes I love all Advanced Nutrients, and a fan of Urbangrower  the PH perfect is fantastic!!


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## TheHazeyMan (Nov 12, 2013)

Here is the harvest from the two large pheno NL Autos, was around 11 oz.


Cola of the shorter pheno NL Auto, yielded over 2 oz


Branches of the "smaller" big pheno NL.


This is the biggest pheno of the NL I had, it was an absolute monster, amazed at how big and heavy it was, and it smelled worse than the Skunk #1's, overpowered my filter big time.


Here are some of the arm sized branches of the big pheno NL, absolute monster branches.


Here is the total haul from the Skunk #1's, slightly fluffy, all together around 6 oz.


Just a small bud shot of one of the Skunks that I really like for some reason.
View attachment 2892097

Again, this was my first indoor grow, with help from this forum I was able to accomplish this. I used almost all of the Advanced Nutrients line, they actually just sent me their entire line in 1L bottles because I won their "Success Stories" contest with these monsters, so I am set for next year. My biggest advice, do your research and do not cheap out and cut corners, yes I spent a ton of money on the initial setup, but now that I have it, it's all smooth sailing. FYI - This grow is a legal MMJ grow in compliance with state laws and is for PERSONAL USE ONLY! Keep up the great work JD, just wanted to show everyone the results they can achieve if they put the work in.


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## Jeffdogg (Nov 12, 2013)

Thats just fantastic bro, hopefully you will stay active on the site. The awesome part about growing...



You never stop learning ...

Should do a grow journal, im gonna start in a couple weeks.


----------



## TheHazeyMan (Nov 12, 2013)

It's been a great experience, even if I didn't burn, I would still grow just because I love it and am so passionate about it. I will definitely start a journal for the next time around, I actually got a Lemon Kush clone from a friend in my closet under a 125w cfl, just playing around with it really (not going to put much time and money into it), if I get something off of it, great, if not, I'm not sweating it. Just getting more practice in before next season, and maybe I'll get a few LK buds off in the process. Let me know when you start your journal so I can follow along.


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## Jeffdogg (Nov 12, 2013)

will do, I also got a few LED panels its gonna be my first LED grow so excited about that too


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## technical dan (Nov 12, 2013)

Hope you like the new lights Im happy I switched to them. I've also acquired an air pot to test out too (finally), but its the smallest one they make hopefully itll be like a super solo cup.


----------



## Turkilton (Nov 13, 2013)

tekdc911 said:


> im straightening out my loose ends Jeff
> and im probably not going to be on for a while i really loved this site after my autoflower.net nightmare i figured this would be a place to lay some roots down but im tired of seeing people get banned or threads just disappearing for advertising claims
> or for what ever reason one of the disgruntled mods feel is correct
> 
> ill send you my email in a message if you want to shoot the shit or something


TEK!! noo! there is so much we could of done together lol, when you know where your going drop me a message with ya email man i need the guru with me as i walk through the valley of the shadow of an auto !


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## Jeffdogg (Nov 13, 2013)

TheHazeyMan said:


> I swear by the Voodoo Juice and Piranha. I will never grow without them again, they are absolutely amazing.


Just to add a little about what each product does really theres some nay Sayers about Advanced Nutrients, but ever since i switched years ago thats all i have used. A little expensive and quite a large product line but you dont have to get all of them at all or at first. Want some recommendations for people who would like to try let us know 

Piranha 


> Using beneficial microbes to create a more natural environment for roots and leaves is the Advanced way of increasing plant health, growth rate, and yield. Piranha beneficial fungi will assist plant growth by improving the development of a strong, expansive root zone. Piranha contains 26 types of beneficial fungi, including 8 species of Trichoderma and 18 species of mycorrhizal fungi. Such fungi excrete powerful chemicals that dissolve nutrients, absorb water, and promote soil porosity. Piranha helps plants establish fruits and flowers faster, in greater abundance, and with increased yield. When coupled with voodoo juice and Tarantula, your roots will seriously look like and old man's fluffy white beard. Apply this product twice during vegetative phase and once per week in the first two weeks of flowering. Once the Piranha inoculates your root system, you're set for success. Feed the fungi with Carboload.
> 
> What are trichoderma?
> 
> ...



Voodoo Juice


> Voodoo Juice has cast a yield-enhancing spell on the horticultural industry. These microbes colonize root systems so that plants can more easily uptake organic and chemical substances. One of the microbes present in Voodoo creates gibberellins that help plants respond to floral triggering, encourage enzyme production, and increase cellular replication.​
> *[FONT=Verdana,Geneva,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif][FONT=Verdana,Geneva,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif]AN has released their NEWEST version of Voodoo Juice!
> 
> Guess what everybody? Voodoo Juice now contains 12 kick ass species!!! For those of you who have been with AN from the start, you all know that this product originally started with only 4 species. Then upgraded to 6. Even then it kicked major butt. Well we've been watching the back of this bottle closely lately, and the truth is they've been investing more time and energy into this product than any product on any shelf in any hydro shop! This really goes to show that AN has taken the majority of their proceeds from their awesome nutrient program, and dumped them right back into what makes them the BEST!
> ...


  
​​


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## Jeffdogg (Nov 13, 2013)

Everyone always says great things about voodoo including myself, well except maybe the price lol. Theres a good online AN seller I have been going to for years to get all of my Advanced Nutrients (except juicy roots can only get that on ebay for some reason lol) Also he does buy 3 get 1 free, the cheapest thing will be the free item so make sure the items are close in price to get a better value 

http://discountadvancednutrients.com/


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## TheHazeyMan (Nov 13, 2013)

Good info JD! The fabulous four pack is definitely a steal and everyone should at least try it! I'm blown away by my roots since using the trio. I transplanted a clone from a solo cup to a 2gal pot and in 6 days, after two feedings with voodoo juice and piranha, roots were hanging 4 inches out of the bottom of the container. If people would just try it, they'd be sold. It's stupid not to put the money in your grow, becuase what you reap will have paid for itself time and time again!

Also, a big thanks to Advanced Nutrients for sending me their ENTIRE LINE of nutrients absolutely free, so stoked! Keep up the good work JD!


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## Jeffdogg (Nov 15, 2013)

Got a few pics of my new lights, using cell cam so they are not the best. These lights are sweet very bright...Very... Its a 5x5 space btw, each of these panels have a coverage of 4x3


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## TheHazeyMan (Nov 15, 2013)

Looking good JD! Looking crazy bright. What did you pay for the lot of them?


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## Jeffdogg (Nov 15, 2013)

Roughly $1650 for the lot


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## Jeffdogg (Nov 15, 2013)

They sold out of mine so its not listed at the moment (at least im guessing theres 2 on there that go up and down on the site like my Budboss.) These are becoming pretty popular

http://growevolution.com/categories/


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## technical dan (Nov 16, 2013)

the crazy purple light says WUB WUB WUB at the plants


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## jhpokesmot420 (Nov 16, 2013)

not sure if this rite section to ask but can anyone give me any tips im growing with 4 26watt 6500k 68 watt and 42watt 2700k bulbs also temps at 81 the strain is ultraviolet by samsera seeds heres pick from today its 17 days old


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## Jeffdogg (Nov 16, 2013)

If the chlorosis (yellowing of the leaves) is coming from the tips and working their way to the stem starting from the bottom set its a PH issue,


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## jhpokesmot420 (Nov 16, 2013)

k ill have to check the ph thanks any other tips this is my first grow


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## jhpokesmot420 (Nov 16, 2013)

im using distilled water is that good also?


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## Jeffdogg (Nov 17, 2013)

jhpokesmot420 said:


> im using distilled water is that good also?


Its good as long as its PH'd, of course later one when they require alot more water distilled water might become expensive unless you make your own (which really isnt that hard). Hmm any other tips you ask? Well my thread is full of them check the last few pages i pushed all the info back that are huge quotes you cant miss them. Massive amount info all bunched together for a good informative read 

Heres the link to the start of my latest pushback

https://www.rollitup.org/auto-flowering-strains/652871-advanced-autoflower-training-tips-secrets-29.html#post9765376


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## Jeffdogg (Nov 18, 2013)

Thought it was funny was talking about the saame 2 products the other day. BDW is a cool guy been following him for a few years now. 

[video=youtube;lzqW7l_4O-g]http://www.youtube.com/watch?list=UUuEV2X3w4o34EmNpMSZ8x3A&amp;v=lzqW7l_4O-g#t=20[/video]


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## tekdc911 (Nov 18, 2013)

jhpokesmot420 said:


> not sure if this rite section to ask but can anyone give me any tips im growing with 4 26watt 6500k 68 watt and 42watt 2700k bulbs also temps at 81 the strain is ultraviolet by samsera seeds heres pick from today its 17 days oldView attachment 2896823View attachment 2896824View attachment 2896826View attachment 2896827


over watered and your soil is too hot would be my guess


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## Jeffdogg (Nov 19, 2013)

Uh ohes look what I found knocking at my doorstep with a hottie mail chic!!

View attachment 2900554


I already have a couple AG clones from my pops, he tried growing without any help and ended up using mg, over watering and over feeding lol... He did maintain a good PH though thats the only thing I made him listen to me about lol Got em the seed gonna mentor, he gave in and is gonna join us in my journal that I will prob be starting tomorrow even though the seeds will just be germinating still can do an intro


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## Jeffdogg (Nov 19, 2013)

Hey guys did a little intro for my journal just to get it goin 

https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/753898-hey-its-jeffdoggs-grow-journal.html


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## jhpokesmot420 (Nov 19, 2013)

when should i start nutes i have tiger bloom and big bloom by fox farm


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## Jeffdogg (Nov 23, 2013)

Sensizym Yum 

[video=youtube;HIygORgfS88]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HIygORgfS88[/video]



> SensiZym contains over 80 different enzymes each having specific functions that enhance plant and root growth. SensiZym breaks down dead root mass, starches, carbohydrates and nutrients which accelerate plant growth as well as assist beneficial bacteria growth. It also helps to catalyze water and assist the transfer of water elements to specific sites. You can speed up the cell replication rate and regulatory processes of a plant by using SensiZym. This product is absolutely necessary for optimum growth and should be used during the entire lifespan of the plant.
> 
> Enzymes are essential building blocks of life processes. Smart growers use Advanced Nutrients Sensi Zym, the worlds best agricultural enzyme product, containing more than 80 enzymes necessary for plant functions. Enzyme products made by competitors contain far fewer types of enzymes and have inferior configurations. A feeding of Sensi Zym creates an almost-immediate crop uptick by breaking down root zone components to increase nutrient uptake of starches, carbohydrates, and elements necessary for rapid growth and high yield. SensiZym accelerates growth of beneficial microbes when used with Piranha, Tarantula, or Voodoo Juice). Sensi Zym helps crops utilize water and water-borne elements, which increases growth, yield and drought resistance. Our product speeds maturation, cell replication, and harvest production.
> 
> ...


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## Jeffdogg (Nov 23, 2013)

jhpokesmot420 said:


> when should i start nutes i have tiger bloom and big bloom by fox farm


What exactly do you have goin? how long have then been growing for? Details about grow plz


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## Jeffdogg (Nov 27, 2013)

Got a vote going on
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/753898-hey-its-jeffdoggs-grow-journal-4.html#post9877568


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## Jeffdogg (Dec 21, 2013)

*I know some ppl just buy the nutes and dont get emails from Big Mike (owner of AN). Just wanted to put this here for anyone who buys AN and has not seen this vid yet.*




[video=youtube;WEUwQls1Cg4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEUwQls1Cg4[/video]


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## tekdc911 (Dec 22, 2013)

View attachment 2937497 lol first seed dropped first seed popped from " the chosen one " ( this is from the plant that had a turkey leaf on thanksgiving >.< )
positronics purple haze #1 (photo) X KC45 (auto) im going to take it as a sign this one is getting crossed regardless of sex


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## OrangeHaze (Dec 22, 2013)

is it a poly?


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## Jeffdogg (Dec 22, 2013)

tekdc911 said:


> View attachment 2937497 lol first seed dropped first seed popped from " the chosen one " ( this is from the plant that had a turkey leaf on thanksgiving >.< )
> positronics purple haze #1 (photo) X KC45 (auto) im going to take it as a sign this one is getting crossed regardless of sex


Thats cool bro , the "Golden Child" or I guess in this the "Green Child" lol


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## tekdc911 (Dec 22, 2013)

not sure on the poly it has 3 coty's and looks like 3 leaves its just a few days up ill know for sure in a week or so at first it looked like it had 2 tops but may very well be 3


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## mcruderalis (Dec 22, 2013)

Great thread and knowledge but I can't help but notice that a lot of this information reflects a lot of what is in Joint Doctors official Lowryder official grow guide as well as some of autoflower networks,,the life cycle of an autoflower(by Muddy) which mentions to go longer than seeds co's.,8 weeks.When we have this much experience to help us,(you people)and some basics from breeders like the joint doctors,we all learn and grow better.Most important is what we learn rom each other.Keep up the great work.


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## tekdc911 (Dec 23, 2013)

yes alot of this can be compared to joint doctors journal 
the thing is as fast as auto's are " evolving" that info is out of date to say the least dont get me wrong its very useful 
but when the record holder as of now was a topped auto and everyone knows not to top auto's right ? >.< 
personally i would not mimic a 10+ year old grow journal


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## guardogz (Dec 27, 2013)

ya thats one of the reasons this site is so good, stay up to date on what people in the field r doin and what works for them. lil bit here lil bit there, ya end up w alot. i ve topped my auto s 2. no worries. wtg to hear someone cloning the long season autos...


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## MaryJaneAdvocate (Dec 27, 2013)

I had looked at a lot of those older auto journals and tips that are titled things like maximizing yield and what not when they only pull like an ounce off of one main cola straight up. I look at a lot of journals as of lately and people are pulling great yields, 2+ usually. You guys are great!


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## tekdc911 (Dec 31, 2013)

royal queens NL auto x AKR FEM only one that popped out of all the seeds 
 Purple haze #1 x KC45 reg 
 Royal Cheese auto x KC 45 reg


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## tekdc911 (Dec 31, 2013)

ya it only ended up with 3 coty's i dunno growing strong so maybe its a good thing


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## Jeffdogg (Dec 31, 2013)

Only? I though 3 was pretty special ;P. Only get 2 on all mine


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## tekdc911 (Jan 1, 2014)

lol ya 
i meant only as in thats the only mutation that ive noticed so far


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## lightsgreenaction (Jan 1, 2014)

Thanks for this great thread! let's keep it going with cutting edge info regarding autos and how best to grow them. 

I've recently converted my grow to run 6 autos at a time, doing three one month and another three the next, so I should consistently harvest three autos every 5-6 weeks. I have also reconfigured my small (approx 3x3x8ft space to use an overhead 400w HPS and a 4 x 2 ft T5 fixture pointing sideways for extra light near the bottom and on the younger plants as I have the "grow" spectrum bulbs in it. I'm using 5 gal. pots with an organic soil made from FFOF base with amendments as suggested from the organic soil threads on RIU. 

The decision to go auto-only for now came from seeing the great results from autos now, reading about them on here, and the ability to keep the light cycle the same while getting a steady stream of bud from my small-scale personal use setup. I have three DNA Chocolope that are about four weeks from being done (the last of the non-autos), and have three Berry Ryder seedlings that are just starting out. After the Berry Ryder, I have Diesel Berry, White Widow Auto (Dinafem), Mikromachine (Kannabia), NL Blue Auto, and single seeds of NYCD Auto and Thai Fantasy auto to do this year. 

I've been growing for about five years, but after having a stretch of mediocre results, wanted to find a way to simplify my process and get steady results, so autos (and organic super soil) seem like they could be a great solution for me now. What do you think of the way my plan sounds and strains I've chosen to try first? Any other suggestions? 
Thanks for your help!


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## Jeffdogg (Jan 1, 2014)

tekdc911 said:


> lol ya
> i meant only as in thats the only mutation that ive noticed so far


Ahh got ya


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## technical dan (Jan 1, 2014)

hahaha tricot plant. Wonder if it will start doing whorls instead of opposite nodes


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## tekdc911 (Jan 1, 2014)

it started like it was going to alternate but its acting perfectly normal now 
if its a male then im going to cross it with the RQ NL auto x AKR fem the offspring should be mostly auto 
if its female ill cross it with one of the royal cheese x kc45 males and again should hold a strong auto trait 
either cross should be stable / full auto in the next 2-3 cycles hopefully


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## Jeffdogg (Feb 8, 2014)

Did it turn out male or female bro?


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## guardogz (Feb 9, 2014)

lightsgreenaction said:


> Thanks for this great thread! let's keep it going with cutting edge info regarding autos and how best to grow them.
> 
> I've recently converted my grow to run 6 autos at a time, doing three one month and another three the next, so I should consistently harvest three autos every 5-6 weeks. I have also reconfigured my small (approx 3x3x8ft space to use an overhead 400w HPS and a 4 x 2 ft T5 fixture pointing sideways for extra light near the bottom and on the younger plants as I have the "grow" spectrum bulbs in it. I'm using 5 gal. pots with an organic soil made from FFOF base with amendments as suggested from the organic soil threads on RIU.
> 
> ...


hey lga only my second run w supersoil. plants seem much happier w the recycled ssoil. seemed to have mellowed it. mite b the strain or something else. mite b that some autos dont like much fertilizer. ya got a nice variety there, you and ur friends will enjoy those flavors


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## Sandgrouper (Feb 12, 2014)

Jeffdogg said:


> Hash is the most ancient cannabis concentrate and probably the most widely used. At one point in the Middle East, hash was made by making slaves run naked through the cannabis fields and then scraping their bodies for all collected product. Ouch! Nowadays, most hash is being made using a process called cold water extraction, but can be as simple as pressing the kief into solid form.


I think a bit of poetic licence went on there, it is still a common method and the people are not naked but in leather and the leather is scrapped.


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## Trapper50cal (Apr 10, 2014)

Thanks for the thread and the thread maintenance, JeffDog. And Thanks to all the contributors.

I now feel like I have a very solid game plan that I'm pretty confident in. I feel like I know what to watch out for and what to do and not do.

Very helpful.

We'll see how it goes.

Cheers, Guys!


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## hrenzo1510 (Apr 11, 2014)

Do I have to induce flowering on my auto

Sent from my SM-N900T using Rollitup mobile app


----------



## Trapper50cal (Apr 11, 2014)

hrenzo1510 said:


> Do I have to induce flowering on my auto
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900T using Rollitup mobile app


How long have they been vegging? Maybe flawed genetics...it happens.

Looks friggen healthy though...


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## lips (Apr 11, 2014)

Hi what is your light schedule. Should be 20 on 4 off. Other schedules do work as well. This one is the most highly recommended in certain circles. (that should protect me ) VBG ! There are some strains that prefer a 12/12 or 16/8 as well.


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## tekdc911 (Apr 12, 2014)

Jeffdogg said:


> Did it turn out male or female bro?


it was a female i took a few cuttings and had to go help take care of my mom out of state she was on some really high chemo and most my plants didnt make it one did and i am very happy that it did it was the original cut from my purple haze i have been nursing it back to health the past month or so i had roughly 5 clones and 10 seedlings that were lost and 2 AKR's and 3 of the purple haze x kc 45 that were all around 1 - 1.5 months old a couple made it but at that point there is no way to recover from not being watered for about 2 weeks in Coco so i tossed them


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## Trapper50cal (Apr 13, 2014)

I thought about starting another thread but I feel like maybe this thread would be a better place for this...

Can we discuss pruning techniques specific to auto's?

Trimming, topping, scrogging, etc.

It seems like we need our own set of "Rules of Thumb" for this as a result of the ultra quick vegetative stage of Autos.
I may be wrong but it actually seems like with autos we need to actually promote a little stretching so things have room
to be moved around (scrogging) to make full benefit of the "canopy" effect. With Autos, the placement of the screen MUST
be lower than with photos. I like the idea of topping to create 2 or more "main" colas but I have yet to find data on when it's
safe to do so.I also wonder how much we can get away with as it relates to clearing out leaves to promote light penetration.

Some say leave it completely alone and to just use the tuck method to get better light to the bud sites and this seems to
speak to the light absorption requirements needed to maintain quality growth on such a speedy plant.

I feel like a lot of us newbs would benefit not only from knowing what components are necessary for good starts and good
finishes but how to effectively, physically care for them, independent of soil and light conditions.

What say the tribe?


----------



## wvblazin (Apr 14, 2014)

I've posted this in the Autoflower section but thought I'd post here too because of all the experience you guys have. I'm new to autos and I know that you're not supposed to transplant them... but I plan on growing mine outdoors and I was wondering if it'd be alright to start them in peat cups for a week or so then transplant them, peat cup and all, into the holes I've prepped in my spot. The peat cups are supposed to break down when placed in soil but have never attempted this. With my photo plants, I've always just transplanted like I normally do with my veggie plants. I've grown for quite a few years and decided to give the autos a try and see how I like them.. and I liked the idea of an early harvest to hold me over til my photos finish around Sept.-Oct.
As far as autos go, I'm growing 5 Heavyweight fast and vast and 5 World of Seeds Northern Lights x Big Bud. The photo strains this year will be 12 Mandala Fruitylicious, 4 Strawberry Blue, 4 Delicious Cotton Candy, and 10 Hawaiian Skunk Haze (which are reg. seeds so I'm hoping to get atleast 5 ladies)
Any help and info you guys could give me would be awesome and highly appreciated. Thanks in advance!


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## Jeffdogg (Sep 1, 2014)

Bumpity Bump Bump


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## tekdc911 (Sep 3, 2014)

Jeffdogg said:


> Bumpity Bump Bump


continuation of the haze crosses in a new spot been on 12/12 for almost 2 weeks had a male flower on 16/8


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## tekdc911 (Sep 3, 2014)

Trapper50cal said:


> I thought about starting another thread but I feel like maybe this thread would be a better place for this...
> 
> Can we discuss pruning techniques specific to auto's?
> 
> ...


really depends on the strain
i wont cut more then 1 fan leaf off usually when i LST flat there is always one big fan leaf that covers the middle so ill take it off
i think thats why its called a leaf so you remember to leaf it there >.< jk jk
scrogging ,pinching , LST they are all for it
FIM and topping i would only do to a strain i have grown multiple times and know how and when it responds to it
i start LST at 4-5 nodes and i bend the top down to the edge of the container basically
if you lst them right there isnt much need to take leaves off for light penetration


----------



## EverythingsHazy (Sep 3, 2014)

tekdc911 said:


> really depends on the strain
> i wont cut more then 1 fan leaf off usually when i LST flat there is always one big fan leaf that covers the middle so ill take it off
> *i think thats why its called a leaf so you remember to leaf it there >.< jk jk*
> scrogging ,pinching , LST they are all for it
> ...



lmaoooo

I agree that with auto's, you shouldn't cut off leaves if you can avoid it. Tuck before you Pluck.


----------



## splat78423 (Sep 22, 2014)

I grew a 2 oz russian rocket fuel by feeding it Verde by humboldt after the first month and it vegged like crazy.....5.5 ft. tall. but then I had to change light cycle for it to bloom so the Verde did take away the autoflowering capabilities of the rrf. 2 oz's and I harvested three weeks too early and it still got me high!


----------



## iiTzHaroon (Feb 5, 2015)

Hey guys only just read all the posts in this thread, it's very informative!!

Here's my first cheap,ghetto grow lol

Genetics - Cream of the crop K.O
Cream of the crop Cash Crop

Potsize - 20lt

Nutrients - Canna Coco A+B
Cannazym
Rhitzotonic
Canna boost
Nirvhana

Also got powders - Ton-o-Flower
Ton-o-bud
Fox Farm Open Sesame
Fox Farm Beastie Blooms
The Heavies late bloom enhancer which I have still to use

I'm growing in around 70-60%Coco 30-40% Perlite

The K.O is I think 3 weeks into flower I'm not really sure as I lost track, it's around 2.5 feet its quite bushy more than the pics show, and has lots of bud sites

they have been grown under a 120w Led panel each, (not the expensive ones, some cheap China models) got them for around £45 

It's flowering really slow, maybe cuz I filled the 20lt pot only just below half due to not having any soil left?

The Cash Crop is alot younger around 2-3 weeks younger, and I left it really close to the led that after a week the top had totally been ttoasted, I removed as much dead dry brittle bits I could, it's showing ssigns of growth which tells me it's still alive and hopefully will bush out, so I guess I kinda accidently topped it? Autos are quite unpredictable


----------



## iiTzHaroon (Feb 5, 2015)

Here's the Cash Crop before it got roasted!!

Will have to check up on them and see how there doing more pics soon, wish me luck the cash crop will bush out and, guys how can I maximise bud sites, it's mainly indica and it grew to look like it had only one massive main coala, how do I manipulate it for lots of them? I'm a real neewb, I have lst the k.o but just tucking the leafs and bending a bit but what do I do with the cash crop? It will be real hard to lst as the leaves are thick! And huge! Also the main stem is so thick the plant will not budge a inch?


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## Beginnerofgreen (Feb 9, 2015)

Can anyone help me with nute info? I am not looking for what brand of nute to use. I am looking at a ppm amount. I mix my own nutes for growing. First run at autos. I am looking for a parts per millon amount so I can custom mix my own. I have heard they use less then regs. I run my regular grows at 150 to 200 ppm. thanks


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## iiTzHaroon (Feb 9, 2015)

Hey check out my auto grow, help needed!!
https://www.rollitup.org/t/autofem-led-grow.859532/#post-11291104


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## tekdc911 (Feb 10, 2015)

Beginnerofgreen said:


> Can anyone help me with nute info? I am not looking for what brand of nute to use. I am looking at a ppm amount. I mix my own nutes for growing. First run at autos. I am looking for a parts per millon amount so I can custom mix my own. I have heard they use less then regs. I run my regular grows at 150 to 200 ppm. thanks


rule of thumb with auto's is start at about 25% of what you would run with photo's and slowly work up


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## Beginnerofgreen (Feb 10, 2015)

tekdc911 said:


> rule of thumb with auto's is start at about 25% of what you would run with photo's and slowly work up


 Thanks. I use peters 20-10-20 with a dose of 20-20-20 once every two weeks. I also add Iron and Mag sulfate. Been reading that some guys are using this at a rate of 1000 ppm plus. I am a grower at a greenhouse. Annuals and perennials. That high of a dose would burn the hell out of any plant I have ever grown. Could this info be correct that I have been reading? Anyone have input on that?


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## tekdc911 (Feb 10, 2015)

Beginnerofgreen said:


> Thanks. I use peters 20-10-20 with a dose of 20-20-20 once every two weeks. I also add Iron and Mag sulfate. Been reading that some guys are using this at a rate of 1000 ppm plus. I am a grower at a greenhouse. Annuals and perennials. That high of a dose would burn the hell out of any plant I have ever grown. Could this info be correct that I have been reading? Anyone have input on that?


you really have to work up to that but yes once your plant is established it may very well handle it .... the starting low and working up is due to the starting from seed variance / difference in needs from plant to plant 
my auto party cup during flower was handling around 1200 ec mid flower so its very possible


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## tekdc911 (Feb 10, 2015)

i use 8-8-8 general purpose granular in my peeat / coco/ perlite mix and then add nutes on top of it when they start to look hungry


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## Beginnerofgreen (Feb 10, 2015)

tekdc911 said:


> i use 8-8-8 general purpose granular in my peeat / coco/ perlite mix and then add nutes on top of it when they start to look hungry


 Thank you for the tips. First time with autos.


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## janiking (Feb 21, 2015)

Hey guys quick question!! Should i start veg nutes on my auto jack? it started showing pistils 2 days ago


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## bf80255 (Feb 21, 2015)

janiking said:


> Hey guys quick question!! Should i start veg nutes on my auto jack? it started showing pistils 2 days agoView attachment 3356460


I would, she looks more then ready just start slow like 1/4 strength till you know if shes touchy or hoggish with them.


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## entertainer1224 (Feb 21, 2015)

Agreed.


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## janiking (Feb 22, 2015)

bf80255 said:


> I would, she looks more then ready just start slow like 1/4 strength till you know if shes touchy or hoggish with them.


Thanks guys!! what u think of my lst job on her?.. its a jack herer auto


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## entertainer1224 (Feb 22, 2015)

Looks good man. A green plant is a happy plant.


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## bf80255 (Feb 22, 2015)

janiking said:


> Thanks guys!! what u think of my lst job on her?.. its a jack herer auto


cant really c it, can u show a side pic?


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## tekdc911 (Feb 22, 2015)

bf80255 said:


> cant really c it, can u show a side pic?


the main is next to the top edge of the container


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## janiking (Feb 22, 2015)

bf80255 said:


> cant really c it, can u show a side pic?


Ill get a shot tomoro im a bit lazy today


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## bf80255 (Feb 22, 2015)

tekdc911 said:


> the main is next to the top edge of the container


ahhh now i see


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## Jeffdogg (Mar 12, 2015)

Bumpity bump bump


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## janiking (Mar 12, 2015)

lol sorry forgot


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## janiking (Mar 12, 2015)

janiking said:


> lol sorry forgot


most recent pics i got from 3 days ago


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## tazz&indy (Aug 9, 2015)

tekdc911 said:


> i use a 50/50 soil and perlite for a reason  my auto's get 3' under cfls
> and really a bag of perlite is like 6 bucks and they require less nutes 1/2 - 3/4 strength is a strong dose so really they save you money


I have 7 grows outdoor and I use the same soil mix in my 3 gallon pots, 50 perlite/ 50 soil. Your soil mix is one the most important factors (among others) for your plants.


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## tazz&indy (Aug 9, 2015)

janiking said:


> most recent pics i got from 3 days ago


Coming along very well, I like all the budding sites, was she trained?


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## Bg4201 (May 31, 2018)

can anyone tell me if my super soil turned these yellow my first time they were so beautiful in beginning..id appreciate any 1s help


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## MATTYMATT726 (May 31, 2018)

Bg4201 said:


> View attachment 4144393 can anyone tell me if my super soil turned these yellow my first time they were so beautiful in beginning..id appreciate any 1s help


It's better to make your own thread than dig up a 3 year old thread -_- now we have an outdated 20 pages at the top of our auto board.


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## Bg4201 (May 31, 2018)

MATTYMATT726 said:


> It's better to make your own thread than dig up a 3 year old thread -_- now we have an outdated 20 pages at the top of our auto board.


Sorry bruh newbie and just need serious help and advice


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## MATTYMATT726 (May 31, 2018)

Bg4201 said:


> Sorry bruh newbie and just need serious help and advice


All good, just that this info is not recent and now it sits up here like new and newbie might actually read it and not see it starts in 13 and ends in 15 XD we'll always help if we can just better to make a post and dont dig up old stuff.


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