# My new aero cloner



## splifman (Feb 18, 2007)

So I was sick of waiting like a month and a half for roots to come through on my clones, even with a heating pad and dome. I was told that those EZ Clone aeroponic cloners help clones root within days.
For around $25 I made this aeroponics set up specifically for clones. I used the site that Major Toke posted in the DIY section as a guideline. Mine is on a much smaller scale.

Any opinions or comments would be appreciated. Does anyone know what the optimal water temp is for a set up like this?


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## Mr Plumber (Feb 18, 2007)

hey man keep us updated in the root takeoff i am interested in this as well.
Are you leaving the pump on 24/7 or did you buy a repeat cycle timer?


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## splifman (Feb 18, 2007)

Will do... I don't have a cycle timer. I need to leave it on 24/7. I'm wondering if I should turn it off when I turn the lights off. I have the lighting on a 16/8 cycle.


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## nongreenthumb (Feb 18, 2007)

thats really cool but what you need to do the job now is another container to go on top and to attach the cfls in there so that you can light and raise humidity


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## Al B. Fuct (Feb 18, 2007)

Slow rooting is usually caused by keeping the rockwool too wet. I've toyed with aerocloners before but it is very hard to get the watering right. They usually make the rootzones far too wet as well. If in an aerocloner, your stems rot from the end, it's again too wet.

Your first try with cubes sitting on a heat mat would have worked if you had not overwatered. The trick is to keep them DAMP not WET. 

My clone box is made out of an old plywood shipping crate, lined with white plastic, has a heat mat (specifically made for cuttings, runs at 28 degrees C) on the floor, a little 4" exhaust fan and some fluoro lights. 

I get roots though the bottom of my rockwool cubes in 5-7 days. I normally get 100% of my cuts to strike, though occasionally a bad rockwool cube (one which isn't very dense and doesn't seal around the stem well) will prevent proper rooting. 

The trick is to keep your cubes damp- never, ever saturated or wet. I water my cubes by dipping only one corner of the cube into a pail of fresh, clean water for about 2-3 seconds. This should soak up only 10-15 ml of water in each cube. 

Once they set root, the cubes will need slightly more water to get through 24 hours before watering again. The entire bottom surface of a cube with a rooted plant can be dipped into the water for about 3-5 seconds.

Were I you, I'd revisit the plain old cubes on a heat mat within some sort of box. Make sure the humidity in your box stays at around 50-80%. If there's water condensing on the walls of your box, it's far too wet.


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## Al B. Fuct (Feb 18, 2007)

BTW, my technique of gauging how much to water a cube by dipping a corner is only learnt through LOTS of practice (read: many years). I can tell by the feel of the weight of a cube whether the watering is OK or not. 

Someone just learning might use a syringe to measure 10-15ml of water to apply to the rockwool cubes once a day. You're totally sure to get it right. Once you learn the feel of the weight of a cube with the right amount of water in it, you can 'wing it' the way I do.


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## splifman (Feb 18, 2007)

nongreenthumb said:


> thats really cool but what you need to do the job now is another container to go on top and to attach the cfls in there so that you can light and raise humidity


Thanks NGT,

I forgot to post this pic. This was my old dome. The width is perfect, its just a little too long. I might need to close off the bottom somehow to trap in more humidity.


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## splifman (Feb 18, 2007)

Al B. Fuct said:


> Slow rooting is usually caused by keeping the rockwool too wet. I've toyed with aerocloners before but it is very hard to get the watering right. They usually make the rootzones far too wet as well. If in an aerocloner, your stems rot from the end, it's again too wet.
> 
> Your first try with cubes sitting on a heat mat would have worked if you had not overwatered. The trick is to keep them DAMP not WET.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the advice. I actually was using those tree bark plugs, i forgot what they are called, I'm sure you have come across them before though. I got 8 out of 9 to root, but it took between 3 to 6 weeks. I never watered the plugs until they looked like they were drying out ( you can tell by the color), at which point I would add no more than a tablespoon or two of water. I had a heating pad that I placed on low just to up the temp in the dome to around 80 F. I would mist them about three times a day. Just don't know why it takes so long! 
If this set up doesn't work out for me I'll try rockwool cubes. What's cool about the $10 pump that I got for this, is that it has a nob that allows you to lower the the pump power and therefore lower the spray. If it seems like the stems are getting too much water I can try to lower this setting.


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## Al B. Fuct (Feb 18, 2007)

I like your old dome. It's not fully enclosed, as are many commercially available clone boxes, which usually have a rotating air vent closure on either end. These usually keep the humidity too high.

A loose-fitting top like this won't allow excessive humidity, as long as the area where the box sits isn't too drafty. Moist air will collect under this dome but the excess will escape. Good stuff, mon.


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## Al B. Fuct (Feb 18, 2007)

splifman said:


> Thanks for the advice. I actually was using those tree bark plugs, i forgot what they are called, I'm sure you have come across them before though. I got 8 out of 9 to root, but it took between 3 to 6 weeks.


You may have had either coconut coir or 'jiffy pots.' I am not fond of these because they are made of organics and can rot. They really hold too much water for cloning. You're looking for damp, never wet or saturated media.

3-6 weeks is waaaaay too long, indicating things were too wet. Stem tips would rot in that period of time and the roots would pop out further up the stem, but very slowly indeed. The roots will pop out on the point of the stem where there is the best compromise of water and oxygen. Should take no more than 10 days to get roots, 5 days in best case.



> I never watered the plugs until they looked like they were drying out ( you can tell by the color), at which point I would add no more than a tablespoon or two of water. I had a heating pad that I placed on low just to up the temp in the dome to around 80 F. I would mist them about three times a day. Just don't know why it takes so long!


No need to mist leaves unless you're seeing wilting. Wilting can also be caused by stem rot from a too-wet medium. I've never had to mist- and the humidity in my clone box is often rather low- 40-50%. I have seen minor wilting in the day just after the cuttings are done, but turning off the fluoros in the clone box for their first 6-8 hours in the box will usually solve that. Otherwise the lights in the clone box run 24/7.



> If it seems like the stems are getting too much water I can try to lower this setting.


Check for stem rot daily. If you get rot, it's too wet. You shouldn't see water dripping off the stems in the aerocloner. Doesn't need to be a fog or mist in the aerocloner, only very high humidity around the stem tips. 

You'll get there, but I think rockwool cubes on a 28C heat pad (never hotter) are a bit more forgiving and flexible in the long run. You can figure that if strikes are taking more than 10 days, whatever you're doing is too wet.


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## Al B. Fuct (Feb 18, 2007)

I've stuck up a bunch of pix in my gallery so you can see how it works around here. 

https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-pics/index.php?u=1698


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## whitebombs (Feb 18, 2007)

this looks like a bigger version of my 150 dollar aerogarden...now i know you are not supposed to grow the whole way through in that thing....but cant ya?


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## Al B. Fuct (Feb 18, 2007)

You talking about my clone box? You could indeed go from clone to bud in it, but my puny 6x 18W (24") fluoros wouldn't make much bud. Not a lot of room, either. OK for about 20-30 cuttings, but once they set root they grow fast!


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## whitebombs (Feb 18, 2007)

ah sweet!


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## splifman (Feb 18, 2007)

Al B. Fuct said:


> I've stuck up a bunch of pix in my gallery so you can see how it works around here.
> 
> https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-pics/index.php?u=1698


Dude, you're totally right about the roots popping out from further up the stem. That's exactly what happened to the majority of my clones. 
I sure wish you were here when I posted my first cloning question a while back. I was told by several people to just be patient and that they could take up to several weeks. So that's what I did, and they did root. But it was annoying that they took so long. 
I do hope this little contraption works though. I'll let you know how it works out.


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## splifman (Feb 18, 2007)

whitebombs said:


> this looks like a bigger version of my 150 dollar aerogarden...now i know you are not supposed to grow the whole way through in that thing....but cant ya?


I am familiar with the aerogarden, and it is very similar. I don't think there would be enough room to grow several plants though, especially if they were indica dominant


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## Al B. Fuct (Feb 18, 2007)

splifman said:


> I was told by several people to just be patient and that they could take up to several weeks.


heh, they were overwatering too.  

If you're not getting roots in 10 days max, whatever method you use, something's not right, usually too wet.


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## FilthyFletch (Feb 18, 2007)

it took you a month to get clone roots? should take 7-10 day till good to go..wow


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## OhioGrown (Feb 18, 2007)

i never turned off the bubbles, when i turned the light off. i always kept it running, and it rooted fine.


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## splifman (Feb 19, 2007)

OhioGrown said:


> i never turned off the bubbles, when i turned the light off. i always kept it running, and it rooted fine.


thanks dude, let me know when you post that pic of your cloner. I want to see how it compares to the one I built.


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## splifman (Feb 20, 2007)

Should I add an airstone to this system to oxygenate the water? Is this important in this situation?


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## sublbc (Feb 20, 2007)

Can you use an ultra-sonic fogger system to root clones?

I know nothing about ultra sonics BTW...


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## VictorVIcious (Feb 20, 2007)

yes you should have an airstone in there. Ifound some 1' long at Meijers in the pet department for $1.99. Bubbles like crazy. Nice looking cloner. VV


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## splifman (Feb 20, 2007)

cool, I'll check my local pet store, walmart too maybe.


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## splifman (Feb 20, 2007)

sublbc said:


> Can you use an ultra-sonic fogger system to root clones?
> 
> I know nothing about ultra sonics BTW...


don't know anything about ultra sonics either... sorry


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## splifman (Feb 23, 2007)

Just wanted to update. Today I noticed white little nubs on the bottoms of most of the stems. Their growth will hopefully take off in the next few days. Thats a new record for me. Its been about 4.5 days. I'll post pics sometime today or tomorrow.


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## Al B. Fuct (Feb 23, 2007)

sublbc said:


> Can you use an ultra-sonic fogger system to root clones?


Might be worth trying, but don't add any nutrients to the water you're using an ultrasonic fogger in. Nutrient salts will quickly (2wks or less) clog up the fogger by precipitating on the piezoelectric element and preventing it from vibrating. $12 worth of sad experience.


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## Al B. Fuct (Feb 23, 2007)

splifman said:


> Just wanted to update. Today I noticed white little nubs on the bottoms of most of the stems. Their growth will hopefully take off in the next few days. Thats a new record for me. Its been about 4.5 days.


That's da way!


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## splifman (Feb 24, 2007)

Al B. Fuct said:


> That's da way!


Al, can you describe what root or stem rot looks like? Two of my twelve look like the roots are growing really weird. The roots look like they grew all bunched up in a white ball that has a layer of slime or goo over it... lol. sounds nasty don't it?...


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## Al B. Fuct (Feb 25, 2007)

Stem rot is where the tissue dies and goes squishy. Caused by overwet conds which promote pathogen growth. 

The whitish goo you have is a big wad of pathogen growth, could be pythium or fusarium. About the best way I've found to suppress pythium is with hydrogen peroxide. I use 50% 'food grade' H2O2 at 1ml/litre of nutrient solution, every 2nd to 3rd day. You can use the 3% pharmacy grade H2O2 but you need to use 17ml/litre of standing nutrient solution.

If the bottom of a reservoir feels slimy, there's pathogen growth happening that H2O2 will stop. In severe cases, you get the 'goo' you're describng.


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## splifman (Feb 25, 2007)

Al B. Fuct said:


> Stem rot is where the tissue dies and goes squishy. Caused by overwet conds which promote pathogen growth.
> 
> The whitish goo you have is a big wad of pathogen growth, could be pythium or fusarium. About the best way I've found to suppress pythium is with hydrogen peroxide. I use 50% 'food grade' H2O2 at 1ml/litre of nutrient solution, every 2nd to 3rd day. You can use the 3% pharmacy grade H2O2 but you need to use 17ml/litre of standing nutrient solution.
> 
> If the bottom of a reservoir feels slimy, there's pathogen growth happening that H2O2 will stop. In severe cases, you get the 'goo' you're describng.


so are you saying that those two that I described are most likely rotting? 
There is no slime or anything on the bottom of the res though. 
Should I cut that portion off and try to root again? The others did just fine, so I don't know why these too went loco on me.


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## potroast (Feb 25, 2007)

If the roots are still white, then they are probably healthy. Root rot causes roots to darken, and they will separate if pulled.

If your rez temp is higher than 75 then pathogens will grow in there, and can cause all kinds of problems.

I know! pH adjusted ice cubes.


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## splifman (Feb 25, 2007)

The roots are still white. However, on one of them the roots were completly covered by this goo that is actually black in some places. I gently scraped the goo off and the roots looked fine. Will the hydrogen peroxide fix this problem? Is it something that could be a problem?


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## splifman (Feb 25, 2007)

ohh yeah, and I'll have to buy a water thermometer, but what's the ideal water temp for water in a aero set up like this? And the pH?


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## Al B. Fuct (Feb 26, 2007)

> the roots were completly covered by this goo that is actually black in some places. I gently scraped the goo off and the roots looked fine. Will the hydrogen peroxide fix this problem?


Yes, H2O2 in the concentrations I specified, applied every 2-3 days, should sort it out. 



> what's the ideal water temp for water in a aero set up like this? And the pH?


About 75F/24C. No hotter than 80F/27C or root damage and oxygen depletion from the solution will occur.

pH should be ~5.3-5.8.


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## splifman (Feb 27, 2007)

I was wondering when is the earliest I can plant these clones? I just have a feeling that the roots would grow out faster once planted. That has been my experience at least. Here is a pick of one of the clones. The roots are there, they just aren't growing out fast enough.


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## splifman (Mar 9, 2007)

Okay, I've neglected to update this thread because I had some issues to sort out with the cloner. I had to figure out a way to keep the water temp at around 70 F or lower, to prevent all that shit from growing on the plant stems and in the resevoir. I was able to salvage and plant 5 of the clones that rooted in the last batch, but the other 4 had to be thrown away because they had all that slime and goo on their stems.

I cleaned out the res and and took three new cuttings and put them in the cloner on Wednesday night. By tonight they would have been in the cloner for 48 hours. My goal is to have roots within 4 to 5 days. I am currently only using water with pH down for the res and cloning gel on the stems. I am pretty sure that with some extra additives to the res water, i might get faster results, but I wanna see how fast I can get them to root without anything added (I'm being a cheap ass). 

If I don't get fast results, I will suck it up and spend the money on what I need to make the 'secret' cloning solution that I caught word of...

I'll post some pics in a little while.


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## jimbojones5678 (Sep 9, 2007)

I agree with you Al, the propagation domes that are sold now keep the humidity levels way too high with all the vents shut - and they are generally flimsy crap too unless you spend big dollars.
I have had repeated failures with my clones because of the rockwool getting too wet.
I do everything properly but once I put the rockwool in the crib - the 40mm cubes get so wet in 24hrs that they exude around half a cup of water and the clones are wilting and fucted.
Most other ppeeps have told me to put a thick layer of perlite under the cubes, and below that in the tray base - some water.
But after learning the hard way - I just don't see how this works for them as the perlite sucks too much water up into the cubes.
I'm trying RW again with no perlite/water beneath them and just spraying them twice a day.

Jimbo


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## acebedo65 (May 14, 2008)

Well as for me the cheap cloner has worked 100% all the time and the good thing about it is that there is no fuss it is really very simple. All it takes is 100% water nothing else. First make your box and holes and and I found that the foam that are used for making foam slippers work really good for holding the clones in place. And also the most important thing is to keep the water temperature at 22degrees celsius and you will most likely get roots within 5~10days at least that how long it takes with me. And all I do is snip and put it into the cloner and leave them alone. I don't even cut under water or even at a angle. to me it does no good just snip and place in to the homemade cloner


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## delstele (Dec 4, 2008)

splifman said:


> I will suck it up and spend the money on what I need to make the 'secret' cloning solution that I caught word of...
> 
> .



What is this secret cloning solution this person speaks of?kiss-assPlease enlighten me.


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## bobbyboy34 (Dec 4, 2008)

you need to dip your clones is hormone solution, also using a small dosage of b'cuzz will help your clones root faster, in combination with the cut from the mother, split the tip where roots are to grow in half about 1" up the stem, this allows for more surface area for roots to grow...remember to have your clones sitting in ph'd water until you are ready to dip and plant


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## greenacres (Dec 14, 2008)

keep the thread going its good did you ever suck it up splif ? you still around ? anybody know about bringin seedlings into this system?


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## Styl!st07 (Dec 15, 2008)

i have also had a few problems with my cloner and the only thing i can cum up with is the temp of the water. I have been thru 2 sets of clones and going for the 3rd set here real soon. Keep us posted on ur cloner to help ppl like my figure our problems out. Subcribed...............










- Styl!st


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## bobbyboy34 (Dec 15, 2008)

Styl!st07 said:


> i have also had a few problems with my cloner and the only thing i can cum up with is the temp of the water. I have been thru 2 sets of clones and going for the 3rd set here real soon. Keep us posted on ur cloner to help ppl like my figure our problems out. Subcribed...............
> - Styl!st


 
your set up looks great, what problems are you having? everything looks like it should be fine. What one/off times are you working with your clones? is the water ph'd to 5.5-5.8? are you using tap or RO wateR? are you using any additives in the water?


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## Styl!st07 (Dec 15, 2008)

> bobbyboy34 said:
> 
> 
> > your set up looks great,
> ...


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## bobbyboy34 (Dec 16, 2008)

your res temp is too high, if you were germing seeds that temp would be fine, but you want your res temp 60-70F 75F is pushing is 77 is a no no

its cool to have your clones on 24/7, thats what you want, but you don't want them in direct strong light, as for the feeding timer, you want an on off, i'd recommend 15/15 for clones in neoprene, if you are using rockwool for rapid rooter plugs then feeding time is totally different, like once a day with a humidity dome

have you tried adding a humidifier? if not add that on top of the 15/15 schedule, should work

also use b'cuzz or clonex, im not sure about clonex and how well it works but i hear good things about b'cuzz


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## grandpabear3 (Dec 16, 2008)

the cycle timer is the key set to 1 minute on and 5 minutes off and the res temps need to come down like my man said.

its the timer folks....it fixes it.


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## UTurn (Dec 16, 2008)

http://www.ecogrow.com/index.cfm/product/1447/mid/22/nid/0/home.html ftw


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## sciga (Dec 16, 2008)

im using a mist cloner i found on ebay everything has rooted and has survived clones rooted in 8 days roots were 6 inches long comming from all sides transplanted into a cube of rockwool with the middle part cut out then filled with perlite placed in my mix of foxfarms ocean forrest and perlite, plants are ahrdy and in the flowering room with fat tops on them i will never in my life try rooting in rockwool only it takes twice the amount of time my lights have been on the past 20 years,,,,i recomend aeroponic cloning to all...


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## TOKEMASTERFLEX (Dec 16, 2008)

looks like your tote is clear...you should be making it light proof in there....also i just use clonex rooting gel and straight water......if you want bad ass roots use water and rhizotonic.....but straight water works great as well...


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## bobbyboy34 (Dec 16, 2008)

TOKEMASTERFLEX said:


> looks like your tote is clear...you should be making it light proof in there....also i just use clonex rooting gel and straight water......if you want bad ass roots use water and rhizotonic.....but straight water works great as well...


i agree, with rhizo, you will get HANDS DOWN the best most amazing roots you have ever seen in such a short time....no lie

the roots of my seedlings went to crap after adding too much superthrive, did a water change and added just ONE dosage of rhizo, i developed more roots in 2 days than i developed the entire grow thus far(from seedling to point where roots were damaged was almost two weeks). AMAZING

expensive, but well worth it, i hope to soon buy more of this stuff, for now i use b'cuzz, BECAUSE its cheaper, lmao


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## Entrepenur (Dec 16, 2008)

splifman said:


> So I was sick of waiting like a month and a half for roots to come through on my clones, even with a heating pad and dome. I was told that those EZ Clone aeroponic cloners help clones root within days.
> For around $25 I made this aeroponics set up specifically for clones. I used the site that Major Toke posted in the DIY section as a guideline. Mine is on a much smaller scale.
> 
> Any opinions or comments would be appreciated. Does anyone know what the optimal water temp is for a set up like this?


i dont get it. i use fluos, dome, and root gel. takes me a week to see roots. but i like your system


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## Styl!st07 (Dec 16, 2008)

> [bobbyboy34;1777037]your res temp is too high, if you were germing seeds that temp would be fine, but you want your res temp 60-70F 75F is pushing is 77 is a no no


Ok, i will get the temp down. I guess i have to get a cycle timer to lower the temp or put bottles of ice in there.



> its cool to have your clones on 24/7, thats what you want, but you don't want them in direct strong light,


I have my lights on 24/7 and a good amount of space between.



> as for the feeding timer, you want an on off, i'd recommend 15/15 for clones in neoprene,


What do u mean by 15/15? I thinking of get a Cap cycle timer its about $100 with shipping. Thats going to be the most exspensive part on my cloner. My cloner was built $50 that timer is twice as much. 

Do i really need it? Will it make a differants?



> have you tried adding a humidifier? if not add that on top of the 15/15 schedule, should work


I dont have one at the moment. My himidity stays purty low @ 20-30%. Do i need to raise it up higher. I thought useing a Aerocloner doesn't need high himidity. 



> also use b'cuzz or clonex, im not sure about clonex and how well it works but i hear good things about b'cuzz


I use clonex gel and the root horomone. After i cut i put them in a small bucket of water and rooting horomone and let it sit for a min, Then i dip them and into the cloner. No wilting but no roots either.



> [bugsrnme;1777470]the cycle timer is the key set to 1 minute on and 5 minutes off and the res temps need to come down like my man said.


Whats up Bugs, How u been? Hope thing are better for u now. I knew u wood be back..................

Yeah i remember that in Stinkbuds thread and he pushes that timer really well and says thats whats makes the differants. I just haven't got around to spend $100 on that timer. 



> its the timer folks....it fixes it.


Really, Does it make a differants, I gusee i have to break down and get one. Have u got one Bugs? How are u cloning at the moment? What are u using in ur cloner and what works for u?

- Styl!st


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## greenacres (Dec 17, 2008)

UTurn said:


> http://www.ecogrow.com/index.cfm/product/1447/mid/22/nid/0/home.html ftw


great site U-T thanks


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## greenacres (Dec 17, 2008)

oops forgoy to tell ya stylist thats a one min on 4 min off pre-programmed timer for $80 check it out they got alot of other cool stuff too, good prices thanks again UTurn


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## curious.george (Dec 17, 2008)

splifman said:


> I actually was using those tree bark plugs, i forgot what they are called, I'm sure you have come across them before though.


All tree bark plugs are not created equal, I got these I think they were called rapid rooter plugs and I had the same experience that it took many weeks to get not so healthy clones. Then I tried these "Sunleaves Super Starter Plugs" which I purchased here http://www.wormsway.com/detail.asp?sku=SSSP306 and I am getting almost 100% with these. They are better than rockwool because it is easier to get the right amount of water in them, just soak and squeeze them out, they do not crush like rockwool.


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## bobbyboy34 (Dec 17, 2008)

the thing when using aero cloner is that when you put in clones, you don't want to use rockwool or rapidrooter plugs, you want to use neoprene, this allows you to avoid root rot. you want the end of the clone to be haning out about 1/2 to 3/4" of the bottom of the net pot and the neoprene holding the clone in place. Use clonex or b'cuzz in your res, and do not use any rooting gel.

Another secret to getting faster and more robust roots is to cut the clone end that will be hanging out the net pot up the center about an inch to expose its insides. This will alow for more surface area for roots to grow and for the rooting hormone to be absorbed


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## theonesx (Dec 18, 2008)

can you use rockwool for the clones and then move to soil as a medium?


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## greenacres (Dec 19, 2008)

Yea no prob , why not but aero is the way to go


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## bobbyboy34 (Dec 19, 2008)

definitely, you must think, do i want to keep buying soil over and over and worry about pest that love soil, or go aero and invest a little bit more money ONE time to get amazing fast perfect results......sign me up for aero


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## theonesx (Dec 20, 2008)

greenacres - very good point, but I am on one of my first grow in many many years (suprising how much I have forgotten) so I want to get a few grows under my belt so I feel comfterable again and then I plan to jump into some new methods, well new for me anyways. Thanks for the tip, I appreciate it.


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## mrduke (Feb 20, 2009)

heres the timer i'm going to pick up inthe morning. nice to have a cheep hydroshop kinda locally
http://www.elitehydro.com/proddetail.php?prod=CANFT1


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## nlholdem (Apr 8, 2009)

I have 4 clones left in my aero cloner, they show leaf growth but no roots yet. I have two bubble wands, w/ a heater (73F-75F). I am using distilled water, not shure on the PH. I do have the stems submerged in the water, could that be the problem? should the stems be above the water? Air pump is on 24/7 and lights are on 18/8 cycle. 
Thank you


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## setfree (Sep 19, 2009)

do you cover the clones from above when using aero or foog cloner ? thank you


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## stinker (Jun 16, 2011)

I built one of the systems about six months ago. The only reason I have'nt set it up yet is that I keep finding questions I have answer first. From what I've found out the optimum temperature for the water solution is 68 degress. I think its different for clones. So this told me I need somekink of chiller for the reservoir. Researching diy for a chiller system. It's going to hard to keep the water at this temperature, when I like the beans to grow in 80 to 85 degree temperature. Have a/c in room. You also have to have a cycling timer. If I remember correctly the spray should be on for 1-1/2 to 2 seconds and off up to 2 minutes. This is why they call it aeroponics. The roots are grown in the air and they have to be able to dry and have oxygen circulate. I got a ART-DNe ajustable recycle timer-T319633. You can cycle it for 24 hours. It's cheaper then getting a chiller. I will figure out how to make a chiller before I set up this system. Because from what I've learned there is not much room for error. Let me know how everything goes. Goodluck. Also if you have not arlready cleaned up you cuts of the top, I would because you don't need any of the debris in your pump.


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## fandango (Feb 26, 2013)

Al B. Fuct said:


> Stem rot is where the tissue dies and goes squishy. Caused by overwet conds which promote pathogen growth.
> 
> The whitish goo you have is a big wad of pathogen growth, could be pythium or fusarium. About the best way I've found to suppress pythium is with hydrogen peroxide. I use 50% 'food grade' H2O2 at 1ml/litre of nutrient solution, every 2nd to 3rd day. You can use the 3% pharmacy grade H2O2 but you need to use 17ml/litre of standing nutrient solution.
> 
> If the bottom of a reservoir feels slimy, there's pathogen growth happening that H2O2 will stop. In severe cases, you get the 'goo' you're describng.


Using 3% now at 1oz. per 4 gallon mix,first time I tried the h2o2...will this low dose work?


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## fandango (Feb 26, 2013)

Speaking of temps,my aero cloner is so cold because it sits in a garage with no heat this winter,so the temps are in the 50's or so.Roots take a bunch of extra time.I did just add a 250w heat lamp and roots are starting to pop.

I got an old refrigerator for cold beers and summer time heat...going to drill some holes in it and place a coil of copper in err,sort of an diy chiller


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