# Day/Night Temperatures



## nizmo (May 23, 2010)

Has anyone ever experimented with keeping temperatures at a constant level through the whole grow?

I've been reading up, and there seems to be good reason to suspect that the recommended drop in temperature during the dark period is nothing but a myth based on the fact that with outdoor environments, nights are usually colder than day. Well, maybe they would grow even better in the wild if nights were just as warm? Besides, what's good for an outdoor grow isn't nesassarily good for an indoor grow.

I'm yet to read anyone provide a scientific basis as to why we should be dropping our temperatures at night. It just seems to be one of those things that people read everywhere and don't question it.

So the question is, has anyone actually tried this? I just got a temperature controller, and im 4 weeks into flowering and plan on keeping a constant 25c temp for the rest of the grow. I shall report back with the results. Temps at the moment range between 20 and 26.


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## Uncle Ben (May 24, 2010)

High night time temps eat up carbos that were manufactured during the day to the process of respiration versus cellulose production. That's the science.

Me? I'd rather get fat dense colas knowing that I had given my plants a 20F drop in day to night time temps. All fruit bearing plants produce superior quality fruit with a large swing in day to night temps, especially wine grapes. I'll take a Cab that ripens with 55F temps during late ripening over one that has high night temps of say 72F.

Experiment, that's the only way you learn.


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## nizmo (May 24, 2010)

I know you are unconvinced about molasses, but maybe regular molasses usage would counter act the loss of carbs? Who knows, its fucking difficult finding good information when all these sources contradict each other.

You let them drop that low?? 20 is a pretty significant drop... Surely certain strains would react better or worse to warm/cold night temps.

How do you keep your temperatures in check? I have a temperature controller connected to a heater... it seems as though ideally, i should have another heater with another temp controller which switches on at night... Just seems a bit overkill.


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## WeSmkDro (May 24, 2010)

see im placed in a kinda fucked situation , i live in a hot state in the south so when i flip i will have to choose if i want the 12 lights on hours to be in the day when it will be hotter to cool or the night when it will be easier. The decision is an important one because if i have them on durring the day it will be MUCH harder to cool the room , but the night temperatures will drop 10-15 degrees basically implementing that temp drop theory senior ben has up there. If i leave the lights on at night the temps will drop to about 75 ... but during the day with the lights off i fear the will go anywhere from 75+ to 85. so what to do? id like to see some better answers here so i can figure it out! good thread man! 

Dro


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## Uncle Ben (May 25, 2010)

You either grow only during the winter or use A/C.


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## Uncle Ben (May 25, 2010)

nizmo said:


> I know you are unconvinced about molasses, but maybe regular molasses usage would counter act the loss of carbs? Who knows, its fucking difficult finding good information when all these sources contradict each other.


So you know the chemistry of molasses, and the amount, to be the same as what's produced during photosynthesis? Look, the plant manufactures its own proteins, carbos, enzymes, vitamins, etc. It does not need or really want your help. The worse gardens I see are those giving them some snake oil crap hawked by a cannabis specific vendor sold to some noob that has dreams of "big buds".

UB


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## Robert Paulson (May 25, 2010)

Uncle Ben said:


> High night time temps eat up carbos that were manufactured during the day to the process of respiration versus cellulose production. That's the science.
> 
> Me? I'd rather get fat dense colas knowing that I had given my plants a 20F drop in day to night time temps. All fruit bearing plants produce superior quality fruit with a large swing in day to night temps, especially wine grapes. I'll take a Cab that ripens with 55F temps during late ripening over one that has high night temps of say 72F.
> 
> Experiment, that's the only way you learn.


Great info. What advice do you have for feeding times during the 12/12 cycle? I use an ebb and flow with hydroton and I currently water for 15 minutes at 6 hour intervals, the first feed time being an hour after the lights come on. Does that sound about right?


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## nizmo (May 25, 2010)

Uncle Ben said:


> So you know the chemistry of molasses, and the amount, to be the same as what's produced during photosynthesis?


I never claimed to know anything at all. I was merely suggesting a possibility based on what seemed reasonable/logical to me (which i am fully aware may be completely wrong). At the risk of going off topic, i have to say that one can not deny the fact that there are thousands of people who have successfully used molasses in their grow. It may be that the plant doesnt "need" it, and maybe they would have got the same results whether they had used it or not. I remain unconvinced on the matter in the absence of a controlled scientific study (or my own personal experience) but i am prepared to give it a go on the basis that i have not come across a single person who has reported back to say molasses ruined their crop so i feel it is not too much of a gamble, and i've decided to try it on one of my plants only... Like you say - experiment!

I research these things but unfortunately its hard to find good sources which are based on more than just anecdotal evidence. I welcome your posts because you provide more than that.



Uncle Ben said:


> Look, the plant manufactures its own proteins, carbos, enzymes, vitamins, etc. It does not need or really want your help.


I honestly mean no disrespect with what i'm about to say and maybe i am just missing the point... but of course it needs our help if we're growing indoors. I know its possible to grow start to finish without adding anything other than plain water to the soil (although im guessing it would depend on the soil)... but surely you are not suggesting that the addition of the right additives do not have a very beneficial effect on the end result? The million dollar question is - what are "the right additives"? What i do know is that you never trust a hydroponic store owner who's trying to peddle his bullshit products. I agree with you that experimenting is the best way to learn - but its a slow way.


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## savagendn (May 27, 2010)

wow so if my ambient day temp is 76 , nite should drop to ? 56 ? or u think a lil higher , they are 2 weeks into flowering 'KushBerry' , thanx in advance


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## homebrewer (May 27, 2010)

nizmo said:


> ...and im 4 weeks into flowering and plan on keeping a constant 25c temp for the rest of the grow. I shall report back with the results. Temps at the moment range between 20 and 26.


 So how conclusive will your results be if you're starting at week 4? I think your experiment is worth doing, however, I think 25c is a little warm at night. Are you able to experiment at 22*C? That seems like a happy medium between not being hot at night and not being too cool during the day.


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## nizmo (May 27, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> So how conclusive will your results be if you're starting at week 4? I think your experiment is worth doing, however, I think 25c is a little warm at night. Are you able to experiment at 22*C? That seems like a happy medium between not being hot at night and not being too cool during the day.


Yeah i've decided to take Uncle Bens advice and lower the temperature a bit (although not as drastically as he suggests because i think i have a temperature sensitive strain). Like i said before,i don't really want to gamble on this harvest. I do agree that a constant temp is probably not the best idea (especially at 25c) and you are right - they won't be conclusive anyway because i would have been starting half way through which you would never really do. So i might just revert back to having a small gap.

I'm currently working on getting the thermostat on my heater on the correct setting - it takes a few nights of trial and error. It dropped to 16.7c last night, so ill crank it up slightly tonight and aim for about 20-22c. I'll keep day temperatures at around 25c. This growlush temperature controller doesnt seem to be very accurate. Sometimes it switches the heater on at 24c sometimes it drops to 22 before it switches it on. I set the dial to 28c (because anything lower causes the temp to drop too low before heater turns on - it sure as hell doesnt keep temps at 28c). Pretty annoying when things dont do what they say they do.

Just to make my heating situation clear;
I have a heater which i turn on at night (ill get a timer for it today) which i switch on at lights off, and then off when lights come on. I just run this using its own build in thermostat.
I then have another heater connected to this growlush temperature controller which runs during lights on which in theory keeps the temps at 25 (by setting the dial to 2. In reality, it changes between 23 and 25 because they must have cheap skated on parts or just designed it poorly but i dont think such a small fluctuation will cause harm.

I'm pretty pissed off with this growlush controller really. Its a small room and it heats up very quicky so its not like the heater turns on at the right time and then temp continues to drop until heat starts pumping - theres no reason why there should be 3 (or even 4 sometimes) degree fluctuations when using this controller.


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## Mudslide9791 (Jan 23, 2011)

I have a 1000 watt closet grow, temperature and humidity is constant day and night temps always stay the same. Ambient room temp is around 75 degrees with nothing running, when the 1000 watt kicks on, exhaust etc, a 9000BTU AC unit keeps temps around 75-78. I have nothing but maybe a 3-5 degree swing in temperature at all times, humidifier and dehumidifier work in constant roation to keep my room at 35%-45% humidity both day and night. I grow some nice plants with no temp swing......


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## Uncle Ben (Jan 23, 2011)

Mudslide9791 said:


> .... I have nothing but maybe a 3-5 degree swing in temperature at all times, ....I grow some nice plants with no temp swing......


That is botanically incorrect. IOW, "it jest aint naturl!"

You can grow with incandescents and nights 10F higher than days.

UB


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## Mudslide9791 (Jan 23, 2011)

Uncle Ben said:


> That is botanically incorrect. IOW, "it jest aint naturl!"
> 
> You can grow with incandescents and nights 10F higher than days.
> 
> UB


No, it's not natural but my buds don't seem to care, much better than a drastic temp swing or a fucked up humidity swing. (shrug)


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## homebrewer (Jan 23, 2011)

I grow better plants when the 'day' temps encourage the plants to transpire more, ie 85*.


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## Uncle Ben (Jan 23, 2011)

Mudslide9791 said:


> No, it's not natural but my buds don't seem to care, much better than a drastic temp swing or a fucked up humidity swing. (shrug)


Let's see your buds, bud.

In Afghanistan, it may be a temp differential of 100F during the day, 50's at night....a 50F swing.

In Jalisco Mexico, it may be 95F during the day, 75F at night in September....a 20F differntial.

In Africa.......

Like I said, if your night time temps are running high, you've just pissed off today's carbos to respiration that would have been channeled otherwise to producing bud.

UB


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## Sr. Greensea (Jan 29, 2011)

DIF is the difference between night and day temps. the smaller the dif the less stretch. during veg a few degree positve dif will keep stretch to a minimun. a zero or negative dif, can cause damage, and should be monitored closely, don't mistake yellowing for a nute or ph issue, when changed back to a positive dif the plant will green back up. During veg and preflower keeping a very small positive or zero dif can very effectively limit strech, almost stopping it altogether. once preflower is over the dif should be increased in order to resume normal growth, i like it high, around +30 (im using co2 and on the extremes i go from 60 to the high 90's, i try to keep it around 90 for a high


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## jdizzle22 (Jan 29, 2011)

I remember reading an article once talking about tomato yields and it said that research was showing that having a constant temperature was a great way to increase harvests


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## Alex Kelly (Jan 30, 2011)

In articles that I have read recently I have learned that a smaller drop/change in temperature from day to night creates nodes that are closer together and a slightly stockier plant. This is good to know or use when using CO2 and your temperatures are into the 80's. IMO optimal temperature conditions when using CO2 and keeping low rh are 85-90 during the day (i shoot for a little less than 90 because over 90 can create stress for your babies and i want to be a little safe just in case) and 80-85 at night. So let's say 88 day and 82 night. This should create more nodes closer together, so hopefully more flowers or buds, and less green plant material (leaf, stem, ect).


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## Alex Kelly (Jan 30, 2011)

Look up the thread Temps and CO2. Actually fuk it here's the link. 

https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-marijuana-cultivation/402178-temps-co2.html

A recent thread here on RIU with a lot of good info on tempearatures and your plants. Should answer all of your questions. I have an article on this also if anyone still has any questions.


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## Alex Kelly (Jan 30, 2011)

Need to read a couple pages in to get to the good stuff.


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## Alex Kelly (Jan 30, 2011)

I realize i didnt even address the question and i really dont know. I know a very small change in temp is good but no change, beats me.


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## Medi 1 (Jan 30, 2011)

the more temp swing you have the less food procesingt he plant can do and more risk of pathogens such as pm. never go below 70 degree/. you can run higher if running co2


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## henery (Jan 30, 2011)

If you can control the temp perfectly then having warmer nights than days will keep your plants compact but it does have a drawback after a few weeks your plants will get sick they do like it when there is a suttle shift from day to night with day time temp being warmer!

So this is a good technique for plant control but does have its drawbacks stress and narcosis will happen after a few weeks!


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## Medi 1 (Jan 30, 2011)

then its not the right way if only a few weeks cause health issues. that dont make sence to say its the right way, the right way is no issues id say


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## farmboss (Jan 30, 2011)

Uncle Ben said:


> In Afghanistan, it may be a temp differential of 100F during the day, 50's at night....a 50F swing.


right. and if these idiots had any common sense, they'd realize the entire INDICA strains all came from afgan/iran/iraq, etc... 

thats whats being grown in america now, buds from a place with that type of temp swing.... theres a REASON we love those indicas.

try treating them like they are meant to be.


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## Medi 1 (Jan 30, 2011)

they arent from there or climatized for that anymore once we have them over here. if i took a kush from here and went to its root home and tried it wouldnt grow the same anymore cause we have climatized it to our needs here. that ytpe of heat/swing makes fluffy buds


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## henery (Jan 30, 2011)

I was not telling you to do it just giving the facts and its doubtfull you would run into hight problems with a indica in the first place!
Where in my post did I say it is the right way just providing info that is all do with it what ya want man people around here sure read between the lines!


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## Medi 1 (Jan 30, 2011)

lol...talk about reading between line...where di i say anything about hights??? i wasnt tryin to insult you dood. i maybe read that as it was ok to have wild temp swings. sory for the miss read then


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## henery (Jan 30, 2011)

Ah its ok just a little pissed at another member on here sorry for lashing out!


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## Medi 1 (Jan 30, 2011)

no worries., i get miss read alot to....lol


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## Sr. Greensea (Jan 30, 2011)

heres some good reading
http://www.hrt.msu.edu/energy/Notebo...y_SR_Adams.pdf
http://sciencelinks.jp/j-east/articl...01A0632155.php
http://www.cannabisculture.com/articles/1536.html
http://www.crophouse.co.nz/files/Gr_...ing_-_view.pdf
http://ipmguidelines.org/Greenhouse/.../default-5.asp
http://mimjcaregivers.lefora.com/201...-for-big-buds/
http://www.bio.uu.nl/plantbiology/PD...-etal-2005.pdf this one has me thinking to keep it windy durning preflower, to keep day temps low (small dif) and keep strech to a minimun. than reduce wind to almost zero till the end??? im not sure yet, but im thinking wind doesnt help if using co2 after preflower
http://hightimes.com/grow/ht_admin/6940 Alex Kelly showed me this one ​


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## Uncle Ben (Jan 31, 2011)

farmboss said:


> right. and if these idiots had any common sense, they'd realize the entire INDICA strains all came from afgan/iran/iraq, etc...
> 
> thats whats being grown in america now, buds from a place with that type of temp swing.... theres a REASON we love those indicas.
> 
> try treating them like they are meant to be.




Exactly, that's my approach no matter what the plant material is. You'll not change the genetic code in a plant just because you take it out of its natural environment and subject it to your whims. 

Lot's of caveats to this stuff. Type of plant material aside, orchid, one of the sites quoted states:



> "While the results showed that the CO2 absorption was largest at 20.DEG.C., growth rate of Phalaenopsis has been considered to have a peak at a considerably higher temperature than 20.DEG.C.. We thought that this was because of *higher leaf expansion rate at higher temperature than at 20.DEG.C., resulting a higher CO2 absorption rate per plant.* (author abst.)"


IOW, do what I've been advising for decades - for the most amount of flower production grow your plants to have and maintain the most amount of foliage and roots you can. Check out the 4 cola plant, that's a lot of foliage!




UB


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## Medi 1 (Jan 31, 2011)

non of what i saw in a couple of them links had anything to do with the same family of plants. think most know a higher temp is best for co2 obsorbtion and they tell us lower. lower heat the stomata arent open as much so how can it ascimilate it better with a closed door.


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## Uncle Ben (Jan 31, 2011)

Medi 1 said:


> non of what i saw in a couple of them links had anything to do with the same family of plants. think most know a higher temp is best for co2 obsorbtion and they tell us lower. lower heat the stomata arent open as much so how can it ascimilate it better with a closed door.


This link nails my arguments regarding dif. It discusses temp issues with dicots, which is the family cannabis falls under. A higher dif influences flower and fruit production.

http://www.crophouse.co.nz/files/Gr_E17_-_Temperature_control_for_crop_steering_-_view.pdf


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## RawBudzski (Jan 31, 2011)

my plants got 46 degrees last night.. Im running my 600w mh with its Glass Cover OFF to warm it up


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## Alex Kelly (Jan 31, 2011)

Well, there is definately evidence that plants produce more, tightly spaced nodes and buds when there is less of a temperature change from day to night. In the science world a lot of the time when they are discussing genetics, or the subject of and subjects pertaining to genetics, they talk about genetics and environment equally affecting all life forms. Therefor, what your cannabis plant eventually becomes, or grows into, is determined half by genetics and have by the surrounding environment. That being said, you see how much we can really affect or control our plants with our environment. I have to disagree with you UB and others, IMHO, indica plants, as well as sativas, will produce tighter spacing between nodes and a higher bud to leaf ratio when there is less change in temperature. Try to take this next sentence with an open mind. We can not assume that just because these indicas are orginally from a place with such a drastic change in day to night temperature, that those are the most optimum conditions to grow them in. That is an assumption not based on any evidence with no way of being proved. You can only make your own conclusions from first hand experience, and from mine and others i believe that a smaller change in day and night temperatures will ultimately be benneficial to your cannabis plant. Just MO. Peace.


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## Alex Kelly (Jan 31, 2011)

I am definately not against dropping temperatures and increasing day to night temperature change towards the end of the flower cycle. I have read that lower temps and decreased co2 can lead to better flavors (more terpintines?) and riping as well as the obvious opportunity of the production of different colors in your plant. Who doesnt like some nice deep reds and purples right?


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## jdizzle22 (Jan 31, 2011)

Alex Kelly said:


> I am definately not against dropping temperatures and increasing day to night temperature change towards the end of the flower cycle. I have read that lower temps and decreased co2 can lead to better flavors (more terpintines?) and riping as well as the obvious opportunity of the production of different colors in your plant. Who doesnt like some nice deep reds and purples right?


I personally wouldn't want my plants to change color because of the temp because it could make it harder to diagnose issues. I think it happened with one of my first bagseed plants, halfway through flowering everything started going purple.


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## Sr. Greensea (Jan 31, 2011)

I think the only time, a very small dif is beneficial, is durning veg n preflower if strech wants to be limited. i dont think chlorosis should be affected, if a positive dif of 5 is kept, that should still be enough to keep strech to a minimun. 

even with a large dif, it seems like extreme highs towards the end of the life cycle, cause nasty secondary stem growth 
the last week, lowering co2, and temps, keeping a large dif, should help the flowers swell and not grow any extra stem when the flowers are already done forming anyway. 
highs the last week will grow stem and not flowers. imo


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## Medi 1 (Jan 31, 2011)

Uncle Ben said:


> This link nails my arguments regarding dif. It discusses temp issues with dicots, which is the family cannabis falls under. A higher dif influences flower and fruit production.
> 
> http://www.crophouse.co.nz/files/Gr_E17_-_Temperature_control_for_crop_steering_-_view.pdf



i wasnt reffering to your post. and if your saying a big swing is a good thing ....not, ....slows food processing down hugely. stress induces the flowers,


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## Medi 1 (Jan 31, 2011)

Sr. Greensea said:


> I think the only time, a very small dif is beneficial, is durning veg n preflower if strech wants to be limited. i dont think chlorosis should be affected, if a positive dif of 5 is kept, that should still be enough to keep strech to a minimun.
> 
> even with a large dif, it seems like extreme highs towards the end of the life cycle, cause nasty secondary stem growth
> the last week, lowering co2, and temps, keeping a large dif, should help the flowers swell and not grow any extra stem when the flowers are already done forming anyway.
> highs the last week will grow stem and not flowers. imo




shouldnt be running co2 at the end. it slows trich production down


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## Medi 1 (Jan 31, 2011)

Alex Kelly said:


> I am definately not against dropping temperatures and increasing day to night temperature change towards the end of the flower cycle. I have read that lower temps and decreased co2 can lead to better flavors (more terpintines?) and riping as well as the obvious opportunity of the production of different colors in your plant. Who doesnt like some nice deep reds and purples right?



purp weed is weeker weed. all that means is there is no more cholorphyll production and without that the smoke is weeker by the day. and wont make more terponoids as the plant needs to make glucose for all that stuff and without choriphyll they cant do is as well


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## homebrewer (Jan 31, 2011)

Medi 1 said:


> purp weed is weeker weed. all that means is there is no more cholorphyll production and without that the smoke is weeker by the day. and wont make more terponoids as the plant needs to make glucose for all that stuff and without choriphyll they cant do is as well


 I never agree with anything you say because in large part, you talk out of your @ss 24/7. This post is no different. 

I have a purple strain and it's no weaker or stronger than any other strain I have at the moment. Why do you constantly post crap?


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## homebrewer (Jan 31, 2011)

Medi 1 said:


> purp weed is weeker weed. all that means is there is no more cholorphyll production and without that the smoke is weeker by the day. and wont make more terponoids as the plant needs to make glucose for all that stuff and without choriphyll they cant do is as well


 Oh, and I forgot to add that the leaves are green, the flowers are what's purple, there goes your theory  .


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## Sr. Greensea (Jan 31, 2011)

Medi 1 said:


> shouldnt be running co2 at the end. it slows trich production down


in a sealed enviroment co2 should be lowered the last week, just like nutes keeping the two equal.
if in a sealed enviroment u dont run co2 u mine as well not grow. cause the plants wont. i stop running co2 when the rooms being cleaned. thats it.


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## Alex Kelly (Jan 31, 2011)

Medi 1 said:


> purp weed is weeker weed. all that means is there is no more cholorphyll production and without that the smoke is weeker by the day. and wont make more terponoids as the plant needs to make glucose for all that stuff and without choriphyll they cant do is as well


Wow I'm speechless. Purple weed is not "weaker" that's the dumbest thing I've ever heard. When a plant turns purple yes chlorophyll production is arrested but due to shorter days and lower temperatures. Not to mention that chorophyll does not taste good when smoked. Plants turn purple because:

""During flowering, with the passing of summer, days become shorter. The phytochromes, the light-sensing mechanisms in leaves, recognize the shorter day lengths. The shorter days and lower temperatures arrest chlorophyll production. Chlorophyll breaks down faster than it is replaced, allowing the yellow and orange pigments to be unmasked.

The molecules reflecting red wavelengths, anthocyanins, are water-soluble pigments that occur in the cell sap, creating the red, pink, and purple hues. These pigments may not be present during the summer, or vegetative cycle, but their formation is encouraged during a succession of cool nights and sunny days. During these days when photosynthesis and chlorophyll production are decreasing, an abundance of sugars accumulates in the leaf. The cool nights promote a separation layer of cells in the petiole&#8212;where the leaf attaches to the stem&#8212;that prevents sugar from flowing out of the leaf, and also arrests the flow of nutrients into the leaf. The formation of anthocyanin requires bright light, a diminishing water supply, and the accumulation of sugars trapped in the leaf.

Another factor that can cause purpling is nutrient deficiency, generally phosphorus. Although these stunted plants may bedazzle the novice, they are typically quite distinguishable from naturally occurring anthocyanin expression, due to the other visible adverse side effects of nutrient deficiency, such as leaf and bud malformation and low calyx-to-leaf ratios.""


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## Alex Kelly (Jan 31, 2011)

Medi 1 said:


> ya i noticed you got your head up yer ass all the time. we do science testing on this...do you....smoking it dont show what its contents are. and for the smart ass comment of the buds are purp then say so,. whan most people talk purp they reffewr to the over all colour. but its ok to leave out the main imprortance to be smarter after the fact. and my answer was a theory we can prove it by our testing we do. can you???...doubt it. just a stoner with an attitude know it all.


You do not know nearly as much as you think you do. No one on here is referring to an all over purple bud that looks like my dog ate a purple crayon and took a shit. I would bet that you can't find one other person on this forum who will agree with you that purple weed = weaker weed.


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## Medi 1 (Jan 31, 2011)

purp can also be nitro deff. all i can say is what the test results show. not our eyes or how we smoke it. i go by tghe test results. call em wrong all you guys want. but ill stick to what this shows


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## Medi 1 (Jan 31, 2011)

Alex Kelly said:


> You do not know nearly as much as you think you do. No one on here is referring to an all over purple bud that looks like my dog ate a purple crayon and took a shit. I would bet that you can't find one other person on this forum who will agree with you that purple weed = weaker weed.


i dont find many anywhere except scvientist that believe what we test for,.to much wrong info from stoners...no offence


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## Medi 1 (Jan 31, 2011)

and i dont pull this info from my ass. i get this from Dr Hornby and he is the leading Dr in efficacy testing so ill go with what that shows us./ till someone can show us test results to the oposite then ill stick to that.


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## Alex Kelly (Jan 31, 2011)

Medi 1 said:


> purp can also be nitro deff. all i can say is what the test results show. not our eyes or how we smoke it. i go by tghe test results. call em wrong all you guys want. but ill stick to what this shows


Actually, as you can read in my previous post that i posted before you even posted this incorrect post, a plant can turn purple from a defficiency of any nutrient, most of the time phosforous, not nitrogen. You really know your shit for a "scientist". 

*AND I WOULD LOVE TO SEE SOME OF THESE TEST RESULTS...*


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## Medi 1 (Jan 31, 2011)

well i dissagree is see way more deffs being purp and is from nitro. i never said i was any sorta scientists. i said i listen to them over forum stoners. show me proof then and ill believe


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## homebrewer (Jan 31, 2011)

Medi 1 said:


> ya i noticed you got your head up yer ass all the time. we do science testing on this...do you....smoking it dont show what its contents are. and for the smart ass comment of the buds are purp then say so,. whan most people talk purp they reffewr to the over all colour. but its ok to leave out the main imprortance to be smarter after the fact. and my answer was a theory we can prove it by our testing we do. can you???...doubt it. just a stoner with an attitude know it all.


 Sure dude. I'm not about to get in a discussion with someone who can't spell or use proper grammar. I just hope others see through your '_i work for a nute company_' bullshiz and discount everything you say, because that's what I do . Cheers!


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## Medi 1 (Jan 31, 2011)

and what are you dpoing...the exact same thing...so why is it you are write and the rest are wrong,...wastin my breath. im not posting info for you, you seem to know it all already


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## Medi 1 (Jan 31, 2011)

and when people have nothing to back thweir cklaims they hack the bad typos...im used to that one


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## Sr. Greensea (Jan 31, 2011)

Medi 1 said:


> and i dont pull this info from my ass. i get this from Dr Hornby and he is the leading Dr in efficacy testing so ill go with what that shows us./ till someone can show us test results to the oposite then ill stick to that.


dr. hornby is a nuckle head with AN , not a unbiased scientist. AN and horby are out for money not to help the farmer
dr. horby iguana juice any scientist who would have his name on a product like that is a dickhead


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## Sr. Greensea (Jan 31, 2011)

Medi 1 said:


> and what are you dpoing...the exact same thing...so why is it you are write and the rest are wrong,...wastin my breath. im not posting info for you, you seem to know it all already


u havent really posted any info.. all bs...


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## Medi 1 (Jan 31, 2011)

Sr. Greensea said:


> dr. hornby is a nuckle head with AN , not a unbiased scientist. AN and horby are out for money not to help the farmer
> dr. horby iguana juice any scientist who would have his name on a product like that is a dickhead


another one that dont know what hes sayin,...he hasnt been with them in many year dood. and he dosnt make or know shit about nutes. thats not what he does....lol. he has a phd in human pathology and studies how ther body reacts to our meds and tests for the efficacy is all he does......catch up to the times man, prob been 10 years since hes been with that greedy fuktard


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## Medi 1 (Jan 31, 2011)

Sr. Greensea said:


> u havent really posted any info.. all bs...


 
to you...not to others. maybe i should say the same about your info...all bull shit...lol...you kids know how to use the block member feature???...use it


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## Sr. Greensea (Jan 31, 2011)

so what are these tests that have to do with growing


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## Medi 1 (Jan 31, 2011)

do you know what efficacy means...i just said it


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## Sr. Greensea (Jan 31, 2011)

eveything u said in this thread was a arguementative. no info just bs


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## Medi 1 (Jan 31, 2011)

bla bla bla/./...use ignore as i said then


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## Sr. Greensea (Jan 31, 2011)

Medi 1 said:


> another one that dont know what hes sayin,...he hasnt been with them in many year dood. and he dosnt make or know shit about nutes. thats not what he does....lol. he has a phd in human pathology and studies how ther body reacts to our meds and tests for the efficacy is all he does......catch up to the times man, prob been 10 years since hes been with that greedy fuktard


my point exactly. he doesn't know a thing about growing


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## Alex Kelly (Jan 31, 2011)

Medi 1 said:


> i dont find many anywhere except scientists that believe what *we* test for, too much wrong info from stoners...no offence


I believe that when you used we, you were putting yourself in the same category as scientists which you are obviously not. 
Oh none taken fa**ot. Me show you proof? We have the whole forum on our side. You show us some proof. How about some of these "test results?"


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## Alex Kelly (Jan 31, 2011)

Medi 1 said:


> to you...not to others. maybe i should say the same about your info...all bull shit...lol...you kids know how to use the block member feature???...use it


This forum was good for a while. This will be my last post. RIU members please do not take the advice of Medi 1. He does not know what he is talking about. Peace.


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## Medi 1 (Jan 31, 2011)

Alex Kelly said:


> This forum was good for a while. This will be my last post. RIU members please do not take the advice of Medi 1. He does not know what he is talking about. Peace.


dido was good till the trolls came out to play....,and your on. ill dig out the test results from a few tests ran by them. you have a whole forum on your side????bit of an ego dont ya think.???. 

guys still cant find the ignore button i see....lol


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## Uncle Ben (Jan 31, 2011)

Medi 1 said:


> and if your saying a big swing is a good thing ....not, ....slows food processing down hugely. stress induces the flowers,


Bullshit.

Where in the hell are you guys getting this crap from? Thinking stuff up doesn't make it so. What's this crap about preflowers and stuff?

Look.......this is what you guys need to do.

1. Learn to write using proper grammar, it makes for a more creditable read,

2. If you wish to further your feelings, at least back it up with botanical studies, facts. I could care less about your theories and rhetorical questions,

3. Journal using a control group, which none of you have.

UB
.


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## Medi 1 (Feb 1, 2011)

im not here to get into pissin matches man. ill dig up info that shows temp swings slow the plant down later from work if i have time today.,and ill appologize for my part in the bad grammer and typos. kinda does that after brain injuries....and bad eyes to catch the errors sometimes


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## Sr. Greensea (Feb 1, 2011)

lets not get ambient room temp and canopy temp confused. 
keeping a ambient day temp of 75 i reach low 90's in the canopy. so if the room is kept at a night temp of 70 
thats still a +20dif if the room drops to 65 durning dark thats a +25dif 

durning veg and preflower (the first 10-14days of 12/12) is when a smaller dif is wanted, not during flower.. 
to keep a small dif before flower all that needs to be done is keep ambient air at 75 24/24 and dont let the canopy heat up more than a few degrees.


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## 907smoke (Feb 1, 2011)

i live in a very cold place and run temps from 75-79 F in day to 59- 65 f at lights off and it seems a little cool at night i do get purple leaves and depending on strain purped out buds so its got be on the cold side lookin nutes up but im always worried about my temps but i would like to hear if a constant temputure works 

also i have used blackstrap molassas a cupple crops and i think it works great i also have used a cupple orgainc additves kinda same thing as molassas seems to work about the same. 
the molasses dose add a little sweet flavor and nice smell but i would say its all a blance of what your plant needs and what it already has in the soil


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## Unnk (Feb 1, 2011)

okay a low temp drop is a good thing to a extent though if you drop temps to low your blocking phosphorus from being uped

http://soil.gsfc.nasa.gov/soilfert/npk.htm

"[SIZE=+1]Other factors that prevent plants from taking up phosphorus include lack of oxygen, low soil moisture, low organic matter, *extreme temperatures within soil*, soil type, and plant type. Plants living in highly weathered soils use organic forms of phosphorus; plants living in soils that contain organic matter and are less weathered use inorganic forms of phosphorus.[/SIZE]*[SIZE=+1]"

[/SIZE]*long periods of EXTREME cold nights will deff cause a root mass to drop in temps


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## legallyflying (Feb 1, 2011)

Hard to get well advise from poeples that aint got the intelligant to form coherant sentence. 

The vast majority of evidence dictates that the smaller the temp swing throughout the majority of your grow, the better the results. Lower temps at night during the last weeks of flower (along with low co2) can help oil production and maturity. 

Yes, genetics obviously play a role (someone mentioned native indica conditions) but I would bet virtually nobody has in their possession a straight afgan indica strain in their garden. 

You want to set up a mini afganistan in your grow room? Ok, google the climate of Kahbul. +100 degree days and 20% humidity and 50 degree night times. Throw in some month long drought followed by a monsoon season and you got the PERFECT environment. Have fun with that.


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## unorthodox (Feb 1, 2011)

legallyflying said:


> Hard to get well advise from poeples that aint got the intelligant to form coherant sentence....


yep it sure are hard to foller sommer yall


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## Medi 1 (Feb 1, 2011)

907smoke said:


> i live in a very cold place and run temps from 75-79 F in day to 59- 65 f at lights off and it seems a little cool at night i do get purple leaves and depending on strain purped out buds so its got be on the cold side lookin nutes up but im always worried about my temps but i would like to hear if a constant temputure works
> 
> also i have used blackstrap molassas a cupple crops and i think it works great i also have used a cupple orgainc additves kinda same thing as molassas seems to work about the same.
> the molasses dose add a little sweet flavor and nice smell but i would say its all a blance of what your plant needs and what it already has in the soil


 
there ya go..cold has slowed its food processing so its deff and becomes purp


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## Uncle Ben (Feb 1, 2011)

legallyflying said:


> Hard to get well advise from poeples that aint got the intelligant to form coherant sentence.


webbee talkin koharant centensences? ah resst mah kase


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## RawBudzski (Feb 1, 2011)

I have never smoked Purp weed that is in the top 10. =/ tho. IMHO. I have never seen some TOP SHELF indica shyt really Purple here in SoCal. other than ppl playing tricks with Temps and such. But GDP/ Mr.Nice all the PURPLE strains are BS to me.. WEAAKKKK


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## Medi 1 (Feb 1, 2011)

when i said week i didnt mean shitty week, just a bit lower in the final cannabinoid numbers. and sonme are barley lower. like GDP is one of the higher ones, and it is alsio how the purple came to the plant to. like a coloured one from being deff is for sure a weekere one. i think even a blind man could see that. its deff so how can it be better

im still going to dig out some old test results to show this. just need a bit of time as this was so long ago this was tested on.


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## Universeaware (Jun 17, 2012)

Reading this thread was hotter than my night temps. I have a grow going on with constant night/day temps and I'm "worried". Anyway If I remember in the end I'll post my 2 cents and a couple of pictures.


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## Cloudz2600 (Jun 17, 2012)

More than a year later and no links, seems legit lol. Thanks for bumping this thread universe, gonna have to go with UB on this one.


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## tommyromano (Jun 27, 2012)

Cloudz2600 said:


> More than a year later and no links, seems legit lol. Thanks for bumping this thread universe, gonna have to go with UB on this one.



Maybe we could do something about that.
Even though this document is on chrysanthemum's. The information that is contained inside relates to other plants. I've been searching the web for an document to post up and the best I can find is here http://aob.oxfordjournals.org/content/90/1/111.full.pdf

It all has to do with internode and stem length. also has if I remember correctly from my studies, anything drastic change within 10-15F WILL show symptoms of mild shock its system. same goes for the root system when you shock it from either warm or cold water.

Going back to what Uncle Ben had said. I would strongly disagree. 
Plants don't do so well when the root system is cold. Matter of fact anything under 50-60 and the root systems metabolic uptake starts to cease up. When I say stay within 10-15F from your day/night, Even human's burn their own bodily nutrients to get the temperature to the level we need it at. Example: its 950F out and your you drink a cup of ice cold water, your body will now burn calories to get that ice water to the temperature your body is set at. So that being said, if your day is 75F and your night is 55F your plants priorities will be set to adjusting temperatures so it can run it's photosynthetic process and NOT on "growing" or "flowering" like you want them too. 

If anyone has any questioned on this. just google "biochemical processes's of plants" and look into plants mechanisms for heat and cold tolerance and read about a plants metabolism when related to hot/cold.

Hope We Helped


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## BustinScales510 (Jun 27, 2012)

I have very little fluctuation with my temps..75-77 lights on..70-72 lights off. My plants thrive. Grows that Ive had before with lower dark period temps had bud rot issues, especially bushy indicas..so I like to keep it low 70s.


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## dozer777 (Jun 27, 2012)

Growing purple kush currently. Temps have been much higher at night this round compared to last grow over the winter. Most of my plants with major temp variations turned purple 7 weeks in flower. I'm there now and there is no purple on any. They look good but, not the purple color going on that so many like. Including myself. Not that color is what it's all about. Let you all know on the potency.


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## tommyromano (Jun 28, 2012)

BustinScales510 said:


> I have very little fluctuation with my temps..75-77 lights on..70-72 lights off. My plants thrive. Grows that Ive had before with lower dark period temps had bud rot issues, especially bushy indicas..so I like to keep it low 70s.


Hey, wonder if I can give some advice. Temps and your relative humidity have a large roll to play in the whole "botrytis" factor. BUT you may be having issues with air circulation. Do you currently have fans running? I mean blowing into your plants that is. If you haven't got oscillation fans to circulate the air and to blow cool air onto your plants, you WILL suffer bot rot issues. Your temps seem to be perfect, but you may need to check your humidity or check the air circulation. anything over 80 and you might have issues. But with your temps, I don't see why this has happened in the first place


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## cannav0re (Oct 13, 2012)

Uncle Ben said:


> High night time temps eat up carbos that were manufactured during the day to the process of respiration versus cellulose production. That's the science.
> 
> Me? I'd rather get fat dense colas knowing that I had given my plants a 20F drop in day to night time temps. All fruit bearing plants produce superior quality fruit with a large swing in day to night temps, especially wine grapes. I'll take a Cab that ripens with 55F temps during late ripening over one that has high night temps of say 72F.
> 
> Experiment, that's the only way you learn.



dang... ive been keeping my nighttime temps around 75F. thought it might be too cold for it since the lights are off and the intake air is quite cold.


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## cannav0re (Oct 13, 2012)

tommyromano said:


> Maybe we could do something about that.
> Even though this document is on chrysanthemum's. The information that is contained inside relates to other plants. I've been searching the web for an document to post up and the best I can find is here http://aob.oxfordjournals.org/content/90/1/111.full.pdf
> 
> It all has to do with internode and stem length. also has if I remember correctly from my studies, anything drastic change within 10-15F WILL show symptoms of mild shock its system. same goes for the root system when you shock it from either warm or cold water.
> ...




dammit... i dont know who to listen to. Uncle Ben said a 20F drop is good and high night temps eat up carbos. but you say it will shock the plant. guess i gotta go research myself. hopefully marijuana plants is just like any other plants when dealing with temps.


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## Uncle Ben (Oct 14, 2012)

cannav0re said:


> dammit... i dont know who to listen to. Uncle Ben said a 20F drop is good and high night temps eat up carbos. but you say it will shock the plant. guess i gotta go research myself. hopefully marijuana plants is just like any other plants when dealing with temps.


For starts, I wasn't referring to temps in the root zone. Yes, very cold temps at the root zone will impede normal processes. 

Again, if you stray far away from mother nature's drills it will show up in various ways. If a plant is using the carbos it made during the day to excessive respiration then production or plant health will suffer. I could care less about internode length on mums.



> Temperature
> 
> Most plants tolerate normal temperature fluctuations. In general, foliage plants grow best between 70 degrees and 80 degrees F. during the day and between 60 degrees to 68 degrees F. at night. Most flowering plants prefer the same daytime temperature range, but grow best when nighttime temperatures range from 55 degrees to 60 degrees F. Lower nighttime temperatures help the plant: recover from moisture loss, intensify flower color and prolong flower life. Excessively low or high temperatures may cause: plant stress, inhibit growth, or promote a spindly appearance and foliage damage or drop. *Cool nighttime temperatures are actually more desirable for plant growth than high temperatures.* A good rule of thumb is to keep nighttime temperatures 10 to 15 degrees lower than daytime temperatures.


http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/ornamental/a-reference-guide-to-plant-care-handling-and-merchandising/light-temperature-and-humidity/ 

I consider cannabis just another annual foliage plant. Also, it's a di-cot. 

I think you're splitting hairs as this issue is just one of many regarding general botany. I've been growing for decades. A night temp of 10 - 20F works very well. They just don't "thrive", they grow like weeds. See this thread as an example. I don't think there are many (soil or hydro doesn't matter) that can start a seed and 3 weeks later have a plant ready for flowering. Here's one such journal - https://www.rollitup.org/general-marijuana-growing/9114-spin-out-chemical-root-pruning.html

UB


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## althor (Oct 14, 2012)

My best friend recently went through this issue. He was running his lights at night and turning them off during the day. Everytime I would go visit them I would tell him, something isnt right man. I didnt know at the time that he wasnt turning his ac on during the day to cool it down. When I finally asked the right question (weeks later) it was of course too late for that batch. He fixed the issue after and the difference in the batch he has going currently and that last batch is 100% night and day difference.

You better believe a drop in night temps is important.


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## Dendrophilly (Oct 16, 2012)

My plants are feeling the temperature swing. Hoping for some purple. I think I see the start of it.


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## cannav0re (Oct 18, 2012)

althor said:


> My best friend recently went through this issue. He was running his lights at night and turning them off during the day. Everytime I would go visit them I would tell him, something isnt right man. I didnt know at the time that he wasnt turning his ac on during the day to cool it down. When I finally asked the right question (weeks later) it was of course too late for that batch. He fixed the issue after and the difference in the batch he has going currently and that last batch is 100% night and day difference.
> 
> You better believe a drop in night temps is important.


my lights are off during the day. and it gets around 78-82F. and when the lights are on during the night, its around the same temp. it should be a good thing to turn on the lights at night since its colder. but what should i do when the lights are off? winter is coming soon but daytime temps are still pretty high in california. is a portable giant AC ok to put in the grow room? i think the AC dehumidifies by sucking the moist from the air and make cold air from it. but it also vents out hot air from the back. i tried once to let the carbon exhaust suck the vented hot air, but it weakens the passive intake since it is using most of its energy sucking the hot air.


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## youngtrader9689 (Oct 20, 2012)

lol. i have run sealded rooms for years now my temps are 83-85 day and no lower than 76 at night. i have huge colas. i have found out that my very stretchy ecsd plant will form nice big complete colas at these temps. But in my non sealed room the (76 day, 67 night) the same strain has more stretchy colas. the following pic is from sealed room.


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## youngtrader9689 (Oct 20, 2012)

those are 17 inch full colas. the non constant temp room has way larger inter nodal lengths EVERYTIME. (with the diesel) i used to use bushmaster to stop stretch, but there is no point if u manipulate your day/night temps. i cannot remember the exact details but its called temp. differential and it directly relates to floral and light stretch.


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## cannav0re (Oct 21, 2012)

youngtrader9689 said:


> lol. i have run sealded rooms for years now my temps are 83-85 day and no lower than 76 at night. i have huge colas. i have found out that my very stretchy ecsd plant will form nice big complete colas at these temps. But in my non sealed room the (76 day, 67 night) the same strain has more stretchy colas. the following pic is from sealed room. View attachment 2379640View attachment 2379641


83-85 in the daytime? is this for flowering as well? shouldnt flowering be around 75-80?


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## Da Almighty Jew (Oct 21, 2012)

Whatever happened to the old theory 68 at night 77 during the day?


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## Uncle Ben (Oct 21, 2012)

High P foods induce stretch, if that's your worry. I just deal with what I'm handed and work with common sense botanical practices. An Afghan mountainous grown indica probably gets a 40F swing in temps. A sativa in Michoacan about 15F. Grapes in NAPA get a 40F temp swing up to and come harvest time.


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## Villa (Oct 21, 2012)

All I know is in the summer time when my lights out temp is higher I get less bud and less dense buds. Now that the fall is here and my lights out temps are 10-15 deg coolers my buds are much better. I don't give a shit what anyone says I grow the same plants(clones) and get better results with cooler lights out temps.


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## youngtrader9689 (Oct 22, 2012)

Villa said:


> All I know is in the summer time when my lights out temp is higher I get less bud and less dense buds. Now that the fall is here and my lights out temps are 10-15 deg coolers my buds are much better. I don't give a shit what anyone says I grow the same plants(clones) and get better results with cooler lights out temps.


i think its your overall temps being higher not just your night time temps what was your summer room humidity at?


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## youngtrader9689 (Oct 22, 2012)

Uncle Ben said:


> High P foods induce stretch, if that's your worry. I just deal with what I'm handed and work with common sense botanical practices. An Afghan mountainous grown indica probably gets a 40F swing in temps. A sativa in Michoacan about 15F. Grapes in NAPA get a 40F temp swing up to and come harvest time.


i would really like to see you do an indoor grow with 40 degree swings i know thats not what u said BUT the point is this is for indoor not everything that happens outdoor applies


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## youngtrader9689 (Oct 22, 2012)

about my temps in my first post i run co2. Not gonna say my ppms because god knows it will start a presidential like debate. lol
but u see the nugs they dont lie


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## Uncle Ben (Oct 22, 2012)

Some of you guys need to do less posting in cannabis forums and more research about botany.

*The rates of photosynthesis and respiration are influenced by many factors, e.g. light, temperature, carbon dioxide, relative humidity, etc. Therefore, temperature cannot be considered in isolation and any statement about an optimum temperature for growth of a given crop cannot be made.

The interaction of factors affecting plant growth is explained based on Blackman&#8217;s Principle of Limiting Factors: the rate of a process influenced by many separate factors is limited by the pace of the slowest factor.

In the greenhouse, specific day/ night temperatures are maintained for each flower crop to obtain profitable growth and market quality. Night temperatures have traditionally been stressed in recommendations because plants grow more at night than during the day.

The growth of many plants can occur over a wide range of temperatures. This range may be defined at three basic levels: 1) a minimum temperature below which no growth occurs, 2) an optimum temperature at which the greatest growth occurs, and 3) a maximum temperature above which no growth occurs. Growth rate increases above the minimum temperature until an optimum is reached, then declines until the maximum temperature is reached. The minimum, optimum, and maximum temperatures varies widely among plant species.

Most plants do not respond in the same way to temperature at all stages of growth. Generally, seed germination and early seedling growth occurs most rapidly at warmer temperatures. These same warm temperatures may be detrimental to growth as the plant matures. Young plants have a large leaf area (photosynthetic tissues) compared to stem and root area (respiration tissues). High relative photosynthetic area and warm temperatures favors carbohydrate production and utilization for growth. However, when plants get older, there is more stem and root area (respiration tissues) to leaf area so cooler temperature favor growth by reducing respiration. Plants in a vegetative stage of growth generally have a warmer temperature optimum than those in a reproductive stage. Different parts of the same plant may also have different optimum temperatures for growth. Thus, root growth may show a different response from shoot growth.*

http://www.ag.auburn.edu/hort/landscape/temperature.html


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## Uncle Ben (Oct 22, 2012)

youngtrader9689 said:


> i would really like to see you do an indoor grow with 40 degree swings i know thats not what u said BUT the point is this is for indoor not everything that happens outdoor applies


No, that's not what I said. You're beginning to sound like Obama.  In my tweeks, I recommend a happy medium of about a 10 - 20F DIF and gave the reason for my madness which is backed up by scientific data (see my previous post). 

Gardening is about managing the balance regarding ALL factors. Too much light is just as bad as too little. Too high temps or too low temps are bad, etc. My Spin-Out thread speaks for itself regarding my understanding of how to balance cultural factors.

UB


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## Rob0769 (Oct 22, 2012)

Hey UB. My day temps are a constant 77 and nighttime temps of 69. Lights are on during the day. I have tried getting the night temp down but I can't. If I change the ac to just blow air at night when it is 50 degrees outside the tent goes up to 80 degrees. So the ac is on 24/7. Is my temp difference ok or am I only hurting my yield possibly with a 8 degree difference. I can try flipping my schedule and turning the ac colder so it doesn't freeze at night. My plants are 9" tall Grand Daddy Purps.. if you know the conditions they like? I have just found they like mild ppm's and lower temps so far.


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## Uncle Ben (Oct 22, 2012)

Rob0769 said:


> Hey UB. My day temps are a constant 77 and nighttime temps of 69. Lights are on during the day. I have tried getting the night temp down but I can't. If I change the ac to just blow air at night when it is 50 degrees outside the tent goes up to 80 degrees. So the ac is on 24/7. Is my temp difference ok or am I only hurting my yield possibly with a 8 degree difference. I can try flipping my schedule and turning the ac colder so it doesn't freeze at night. My plants are 9" tall Grand Daddy Purps.. if you know the conditions they like? I have just found they like mild ppm's and lower temps so far.


You could do what I did and not use a tent and only grow during the winter. Nothing wrong with your 77/60 IMO. We're splitting hairs here.


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## slowbus (Oct 23, 2012)

lights on at night.That way if someone comes around,you are dark and quiet


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## beginner.legal.growop (Jan 15, 2013)

Uncle Ben said:


> So you know the chemistry of molasses, and the amount, to be the same as what's produced during photosynthesis? Look, the plant manufactures its own proteins, carbos, enzymes, vitamins, etc. It does not need or really want your help. The worse gardens I see are those giving them some snake oil crap hawked by a cannabis specific vendor sold to some noob that has dreams of "big buds".
> 
> UB



Ressurecting a 2 year old thread to say. Throughout years of studying the effect molasses and other sugars have on cannabis. Well the carbs dont help the plant at first sure, but they stimulate the microorganism in the soil which in turn stimulates the plant. The carbs are then broken down into a form the plant can actually use. I have never heard of this "snake oil crap" but I have seen, first hand, the effect sugars have on a plant during its vegetative/flowering stages. You can go to your local community college and sign up for a horticulture and plant science class for $100 dollars a class and learn more then what some of these people have to tell you.

I will say this once, UB, you are an idiot for saying that plants do not benefit from us. You can, in fact, increase a plants protein, carb, enymze, and vitamin production. If you read this, I would like you to show me where in any book that it says plants can not have increased proteins, carbos, enzymes, and vitamin production.


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## homebrewer (Jan 15, 2013)

beginner.legal.growop said:


> Ressurecting a 2 year old thread to say. Throughout years of studying the effect molasses and other sugars have on cannabis. *Well the carbs dont help the plant at first sure, but they stimulate the microorganism in the soil which in turn stimulates the plant. The carbs are then broken down into a form the plant can actually use.* I have never heard of this "snake oil crap" but I have seen, first hand, the effect sugars have on a plant during its vegetative/flowering stages. You can go to your local community college and sign up for a horticulture and plant science class for $100 dollars a class and learn more then what some of these people have to tell you.
> 
> I will say this once, UB, you are an idiot for saying that plants do not benefit from us. You can, in fact, increase a plants protein, carb, enymze, and vitamin production. If you read this, I would like you to show me where in any book that it says plants can not have increased proteins, carbos, enzymes, and vitamin production.


One thing's for sure, you're definitely a beginner.


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## beginner.legal.growop (Jan 15, 2013)

homebrewer said:


> One thing's for sure, you're definitely a beginner.



Growing cannabis maybe, about 2-3 years experience. About 15 years experience with other plants and fungi. Including, psilocybin mushrooms, sage, angel trumpets, I even screwed around with peyote cacti for awhile... Thats all in the past, now I am focused on cannabis.

That's funny you highlighted the part that should be common sense. If I put molasses in my soil the plant will not just suck it up. The whole point is for the microbes in your soil. Here is a good read if you would like to learn about molasses. http://www.thesoilguy.com/SG/Molasses 

here is another http://www.brighthub.com/environment/green-living/articles/86903.aspx

and another http://www.agriculturesolutions.ca/bio-stimulants/buffalo-molasses

I could go on all day. So if you are saying I am beginner for what I said that you put in bold, hahaha your an idiot too. Keep doing what your doing and I will continue to do what I am doing. Half of the shit some of you people put on this forum is hearsay anyway...


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## homebrewer (Jan 15, 2013)

So you've been growing for 2-3 years and all the further you've made it is autos in your bathtub? You're in the wrong forum, pal.

You might want to start here: https://www.rollitup.org/newbie-central/


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## beginner.legal.growop (Jan 15, 2013)

homebrewer said:


> So you've been growing for 2-3 years and all the further you've made it is autos in your bathtub? You're in the wrong forum, pal.
> 
> You might want to start here: https://www.rollitup.org/newbie-central/


Well if you would have read the thread I clearly state that I have only been doing indoor for maybe 2 months now. I am used to outdoor. No need to compare dick size so I wont even begin to tell you what I have done. I will just let you keep on believing what you want to believe. 

Have a nice day!


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## Uncle Ben (Jan 16, 2013)

beginner.legal.growop said:


> Growing cannabis maybe, about 2-3 years experience. About 15 years experience with other plants and fungi. Including, psilocybin mushrooms, sage, angel trumpets, I even screwed around with peyote cacti for awhile... Thats all in the past, now I am focused on cannabis.
> 
> That's funny you highlighted the part that should be common sense. If I put molasses in my soil the plant will not just suck it up. The whole point is for the microbes in your soil. Here is a good read if you would like to learn about molasses. http://www.thesoilguy.com/SG/Molasses
> 
> ...


Check out my posts. I covered all that while you was still messin' in your drawers. I have found no real world value in using molasses drenches and I did a control group. You're reading too much forum crap and believing it. I have a thread on myco fungi and Superthrive aka Superjive.

UB


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## burgertime2010 (Jan 16, 2013)

I want some wisdom, give me a slice of the masters guilded pizza. Fact is, newbies and the misinformed are the majority here. The bullshit is overwhelming and the truth repels most like in real life I suppose. I am not a newbie and obviously nor are you, however our methods are at odds. So lets argue, it will be a learning experience hopefully. I am by your words failing, indulge me in the truth as you see it. Lets talk about techno-tomatoes, jet fuel, and how we like to skin our cats.


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## stusghost (Jan 17, 2013)

Originally Posted by *beginner.legal.growop *


> If your vision is off; the line-up is Fox Farm Big Bloom, Earth Juice Grow, Earth Juice Bloom, Earth Juice Microblast, CaMg+, Roots Organic Buddha Bloom, Humboldt Nutrients Honey Es, Humboldt Nutrients Prozyme, Humboldt Nutrient MycoMadness.


Enough said....


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## Uncle Ben (Jan 17, 2013)

unsubbed.....


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## sheik yerbouti (Jan 17, 2013)

Not sure if anyone has pointed this out yet but taking control of your day night temperature can help you manipulate your plants to do exactly what you want. The more temperature swing the more rapid the growth but the more distance between internodes. If you can control the day night temp swings you can add stretch when you want and control stretch as well. I've never been able to experiment with this as I just use an exhaust fan to control temps and my night temps are usually a lot colder than day so I'm at the mercy of the environment. This article goes into more detail about it.

http://www.cannabisculture.com/articles/1536.html


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## beginner.legal.growop (Jan 19, 2013)

stusghost said:


> Enough said....


bahahahhahaha. This is coming from the guy growing in drawers using CFL's... Not even using Grow CFLs, using small 24w CFL's... 

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Uncle Ben, I respect you, but molasses does a load for the microbes in your soil. 1000's of studies have been done, they even teach it in Horticulture classes. Micro activity goes up 50-60% when sugars are added to living soil. Molasses also contains potassium and sulfur... 

1 Tbsp per week at feeding is very helpful in living soil, end of story. Do not argue, if you do you are wrong.

And stusghost your probably using Miracle grow... Your also an 18 year old kid who lives at home with his grandpa... 
Goodbye! Have a nice day everyone!


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## Impman (May 31, 2013)

My second grow was in my garage in a 'grow tent'. I had a 24,000 BTU AC I thought would be enough. I made a horrible mistake and thought I could beat the summer heat by running my lights at night to save electricity. What happen was my little AC could not keep the 'night' times temps low enough. It was 100 degrees outside and my grow tent was only getting down to 78 degrees at the plants night time temps. BUT when my plants lights came on the grow tent temp was down to 72-75 degrees. So the Night temp for my plants was 3 degrees higher than the day temp. WHAT A DISASTER! It cost me a fortune on electricity bill and my crop was beyond screwed. It was so bad I almost quit growing forever... Until I started reading Uncle Ben's posts which turned my whole life around really.


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## R.Raider (Dec 3, 2014)

sheik yerbouti said:


> Not sure if anyone has pointed this out yet but taking control of your day night temperature can help you manipulate your plants to do exactly what you want. The more temperature swing the more rapid the growth but the more distance between internodes. If you can control the day night temp swings you can add stretch when you want and control stretch as well. I've never been able to experiment with this as I just use an exhaust fan to control temps and my night temps are usually a lot colder than day so I'm at the mercy of the environment. This article goes into more detail about it.
> 
> http://www.cannabisculture.com/articles/1536.html


Thx for the post man, I found this to be the most informational post realted to the topic of all 6 pages.


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## BigDaddy84 (Oct 18, 2020)

WeSmkDro said:


> see im placed in a kinda fucked situation , i live in a hot state in the south so when i flip i will have to choose if i want the 12 lights on hours to be in the day when it will be hotter to cool or the night when it will be easier. The decision is an important one because if i have them on durring the day it will be MUCH harder to cool the room , but the night temperatures will drop 10-15 degrees basically implementing that temp drop theory senior ben has up there. If i leave the lights on at night the temps will drop to about 75 ... but during the day with the lights off i fear the will go anywhere from 75+ to 85. so what to do? id like to see some better answers here so i can figure it out! good thread man!
> 
> Dro


Jst remember bro, if you manage to get temps down your rh rises. Theres no sweet spot in your case(our case, as im in same boat), i use an evap cooler feeding air in, 2 dehumidifiers connected to ink bird humidity controller with another inkbird temp controller monitoring temps, funny thing is i get colder temps when lights on(come on at night), than during the day when they sleeping. Doesnt seem to bother them so long as you keep the rh under control.


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## Keesje (Oct 18, 2020)

youngtrader9689 said:


> about my temps in my first post i run co2. Not gonna say my ppms because god knows it will start a presidential like debate. lol
> but u see the nugs they dont lie


Now you made me curious


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## Halman9000 (Oct 18, 2020)

WeSmkDro said:


> see im placed in a kinda fucked situation , i live in a hot state in the south so when i flip i will have to choose if i want the 12 lights on hours to be in the day when it will be hotter to cool or the night when it will be easier. The decision is an important one because if i have them on durring the day it will be MUCH harder to cool the room , but the night temperatures will drop 10-15 degrees basically implementing that temp drop theory senior ben has up there. If i leave the lights on at night the temps will drop to about 75 ... but during the day with the lights off i fear the will go anywhere from 75+ to 85. so what to do? id like to see some better answers here so i can figure it out! good thread man!
> 
> Dro


Go back in time when slavery was legal . Next , command slaves to stand by on off switches to control everything exactly as commanded . Hook them up to shock devices and use negative reinforcement if you are unhappy with crop . Use positive reinforcement if crop turns out good or great . I would use the slaves to control the on off heater or air conditioner equipment . 

Note to self . Take modern technology with me back in time ; like air conditioners and heaters .

Halman9000


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