# Making Tea - is EZ.... & Cheap !



## Ohsogreen (Jul 27, 2008)

OK, you've been reading the Organic Threads and have decided to make up some Organic Tea for your plants. 
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How do you do it - Here's how: There are two ways

Get a clean container ( a bucket, a pail or large jug ), add a gallon of unchlorinated water, pour in what ever manure you intend to use. Bubble it with a cheap aquarium air pump / air stone for two days. Turn off pump, let settle for one hour & it's ready to pour into your feeding container. 
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Now, some people put their manure in a sock of some sort, like an old sock, panty hose or a old pillow case. That is OK, but I like the extra manure to water interaction you get from direct contact. More surface area exposed - more nutrients transferred.
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or
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Get two similar size containers ( a bucket, a pail or large jug ), add a gallon of unchlorinated water, pour in what ever manure you intend to use. Pour it from one container to the other a couple of times - twice daily for three days. Let settle for one hour, pour into your feeding container.
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With both methods - pour the left over crud into your Compost Pile or Barrel. To be a true Organic Grower - you must have some Compost going all the time - it's a requirment to be in the Club...LOL...
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See, not hard, pretty cheap & as you will see, a very effective way to feed Mary a well balanced diet.
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Of course, your containers can be much larger, so can your mixes. 5 gallon buckets work well & allow you to mix up larger batches quite easy.

Common Mixes (I use - I don't buy into the more is always better thing.) - 

Bat Guano (Either - Higher N or P) 2 to 4 tablespoons per gallon of water.

Bunny Poop - one cup per gallon of water.

Cow Manure - three cups per gallon of water.

Chicken Manure - one cup per gallon of water.

Worm Castings - 4 tablespoons per gallon of water (people argue about this one the most0. They say more, more is better. I disagree - the NPK value of Worm Castings is only .1 % N (soluble) & .9 % (slow release) with a NPK value of only 1-0-0 Worm Castings will not be adding any real amounts of NPK. What they will add - trace minerals & benefical microogranisms (good bacteria & fungi) so, 4 tablespoons gets the job done.
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Hope this helps...someone....
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Keep it Real.. Organic......
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## Ravioli (Jul 27, 2008)

Where abouts do you find your worm castings? Or do you have a worm farm? I looked at the nursery and Home Depot and they had never heard of it. Is there something I'm missing?

Another question: Do you mix ALL of that together, or are they individual mixes by themselves? Would it hurt to put them all together? Considering the NPK of all, of course.


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## Ohsogreen (Jul 27, 2008)

Ravioli said:


> Where abouts do you find your worm castings? Or do you have a worm farm? I looked at the nursery and Home Depot and they had never heard of it. Is there something I'm missing?
> 
> Another question: Do you mix ALL of that together, or are they individual mixes by themselves? Would it hurt to put them all together? Considering the NPK of all, of course.


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Most good Garden Centers carry them, some Walmarts do, any respectable Nursery, and you can even order them off Ebay - if they are, no where to be found, where you live.
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I have my own worm bin - I vermicompost.
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Yes, I do combine things. It just takes simple addition to determine the final NPK value. Just add the NPK values, of each manure you add, all together to get your final numbers.

Add each of these at the rate of one cup, per gallon of unchlorinated water - unless noted otherwise.

Source N P K 

Rabbit manure 2.4-1.4-.6 
Cow manure (dairy) .6-.2-.5 Both cow manures (3) cups per gallon.
Steer manure (beef) .7-.3-.4 
Chicken manure 1.1-.8-.5 
Horse manure .7-.3-.6 
Duck manure .6-1.4-.5 
Sheep manure .7-.3-.9 
Worm castings 1.0-.0-.0 (4) tablespoons per gallon
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See not hard, just basic math....
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Ok & one more just for fun : Elephant Poop is 1-.9-.6 on average (plus it is almost odor free). 
Hotlink about Zoo Doo...

http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9E0CE0DD1530F931A25756C0A964958260
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Hope this helps....
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## Ravioli (Jul 27, 2008)

It does help! I was unsure of mixing them together. I'm trying to keep it simple + cheap this round considering I'm in a rental, and growing in a closet. I'm just using the worm poop fertilizer that comes in a spray bottle from TerraCycle, since I couldn't find anything else with worm castings in it. Heres's a link: TerraCycle Inc . I read on an earlier post in some other category that mixing molasses and worm poo with your water would make some sort of bacterial foam on top, and I have done so, but now it's unclear if I should skim this crap off, or pour it right in? Does this happen with other emulsions? 

My experience with organic fertilizers is slim to none, as I started as a MG grower, as many do, and I sincerely thank you for your advice! You're pointing me in the right direction. So far, this grow is completely organic, and doing much better than the others, naturally. Pun intended.


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## Ohsogreen (Jul 27, 2008)

Ravioli said:


> It does help! I was unsure of mixing them together. I'm trying to keep it simple + cheap this round considering I'm in a rental, and growing in a closet. I'm just using the worm poop fertilizer that comes in a spray bottle from TerraCycle, since I couldn't find anything else with worm castings in it. Heres's a link: TerraCycle Inc . I read on an earlier post in some other category that mixing molasses and worm poo with your water would make some sort of bacterial foam on top, and I have done so, but now it's unclear if I should skim this crap off, or pour it right in? Does this happen with other emulsions?
> 
> My experience with organic fertilizers is slim to none, as I started as a MG grower, as many do, and I sincerely thank you for your advice! You're pointing me in the right direction. So far, this grow is completely organic, and doing much better than the others, naturally. Pun intended.


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TerraCycle is pretty good stuff, keep using it. The unsulphured molasses is also a favorite of mine. The NPK of one ounce to one gallon of unchlorinated water is 5-1-3. Decent numbers, with an added bonus -trace minerals. 
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Don't fear the foam - use it. Just the byproduct of Bioconversion ( a fancy word ) for little micro-beaties (bacteria & fungi) eating & pooping. Naturally, what ever comes out of their south end - is very, very tiny (highly soluble). So, your plants can suck it right up, with ease.
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When making your teas - you will always end up with foam (or big ass bubbles sometimes) on the top. Don't worry about them. Skimming them off if OK, using them is OK. Pouring what you make throught a paper coffee filter is OK. Since, the stuff your plants are really going to use, are small enought to pass through that filter anyway. I take all the left over crud & put it in my compost barrel. Since, your in a rental - just flush it. It will benefit some plant somewhere down the line.
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Stay on the Road... The Organic One....
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## Ravioli (Jul 27, 2008)

Allright, kewl. I figured the foam wasn't bad considering what made it. Thank you for all of your help, man. I'll mail ya a  when everything is done


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## SimpleSimon (Jul 30, 2008)

Is also a good idea to add an oz of Organic Molasses to your mix to feed the good bacteria.


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## Ohsogreen (Aug 1, 2008)

SimpleSimon said:


> Is also a good idea to add an oz of Organic Molasses to your mix to feed the good bacteria.


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SimpleSimon You bring up an excellent point. I got so busy typing about the different manures - I neglected the molasses.
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Unsulphured Molasses is cheap, available at most grocery stores & is easy to use. You add one ounce to each gallon of unchlorinated water. This produces a NPK value of 5-1-3 on average. The keys are *unsulphured *molasses & *unchlorinated* water. This makes an excellent low grade, all natural fertilizer, feeds the micro-beaties (good bacteria & fungi) in your manure tea mixs & adds some trace minerals -which is an added bonus.
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If you plant to foliar feed, just use only half as much molasses.
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Thanks..SimpleSimon...
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## Ohsogreen (Aug 10, 2008)

Jan The answer to your question is: Organic Teas are great for the veggie growth phase & pre-flowering. After that, I do not foliar spray them, I only water them in. I don't want to risk Bud Mold. Plus, when Mary starts pumping up her trichromes they act like velcro - holding onto to things.
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I just think it's best not to foliar feed, as a rule, after preflowering starts.
Some people will disagree, but someone always does.
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Hope this helps...
Keep it Real...Organic...
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## Seamaiden (Aug 10, 2008)

Subscribed. I wish I could figure out the print to pdf feature Mr. Rollitup says is available.


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## Angus (Aug 10, 2008)

Very helpful thread. You are the man, Ohso. Thanks for taking time to break things down for us organic noobs.


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## napalesegrizzly23 (Aug 10, 2008)

Thanks for the info. Now I want to get some chickens and rabbits. Do you use this for every watering for soil? Do you ever make tea with compost out of your vermicomposter?


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## Ohsogreen (Aug 10, 2008)

napalesegrizzly23 said:


> Thanks for the info. Now I want to get some chickens and rabbits. Do you use this for every watering for soil? Do you ever make tea with compost out of your vermicomposter?


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Napalesegrizzly23 I *water weekly* and *fertilize with tea every two weeks,* throughout my grow. Overfertilizing & Overwatering are the two biggest mistakes people make. By doing it this way, I avoid both.
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When you grow Mary, each strain, has a preset gentic potential. No magic fert can push it beyond it's potential. You just want to reach it's potential, not lode up it's tissue with NPK it can't use. That equals - slow growth & chemical tasting buds... Yuck... 
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I use teas made with bunny manure, worm castings, molasses & high N bat guano for veggie growth. I switch to worm castings, molasses & high P bat guano tea for flowering. The worm castings are from my own worm bin.
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For veggie growth I try to keep the NPK at around 4-3-4 to 8-4-6, during flowering I switch to an NPK of 1-7-0 to 2-8-6. 
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The key with Organic nutes is to start low, and build up slow & steady. Because all Organic fertilizers have additional NPK in them, which will continue to break down over time. 
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Chemical Ferts are too soluble, they are absorbed quickly, but also leach out quickly. So, when you use chemical ferts you have to apply them more often. They have no staying power and if over used - they toxify your soil & plant much quicker than Organic Ferts.
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So, No Mega-Chemical Ferts or chemical ferts period, for me. I only grow in soil, organically. The only thing I use out of a bottle is Super Plant Tonic made by BMO. It makes your plants rootball massive, which equals - reaching maximum potential - aka - Fat, Frosty Buds...& It's all Organic.
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Hope this helps...
Keep it Real....Organic... 
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## Ohsogreen (Aug 10, 2008)

Angus You are quite welcome. I am always glad to help anyone switch to Organics.
It's just a better, simpler way to grow. & Cheaper most of the time.
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## camaro630hp (Aug 11, 2008)

wallmart has it


Ravioli said:


> Where abouts do you find your worm castings? Or do you have a worm farm? I looked at the nursery and Home Depot and they had never heard of it. Is there something I'm missing?
> 
> Another question: Do you mix ALL of that together, or are they individual mixes by themselves? Would it hurt to put them all together? Considering the NPK of all, of course.


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## drumsinttown (Aug 11, 2008)

Don't know how widely regarded ol' jorge cervantes is on this site for viability, but I came across this in his indoor bible (my first resource when I am in doubt).....

*Foliar Feeding
*
Virtually all liquid foliar fertilizers including fish emulsion, conain nitrates. the leaves of cannabis convert nitrates to carcinogenic N-nitrosamines! This is why I can no longer reccomend foliar feeding to "green up" a garden.


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## Seamaiden (Aug 11, 2008)

I have one of his books, and I have a bit of a problem with the fact that he doesn't always cite his sources.


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## Ohsogreen (Aug 12, 2008)

drumsinttown said:


> Don't know how widely regarded ol' jorge cervantes is on this site for viability, but I came across this in his indoor bible (my first resource when I am in doubt).....
> 
> *Foliar Feeding*
> 
> Virtually all liquid foliar fertilizers including fish emulsion, conain nitrates. the leaves of cannabis convert nitrates to carcinogenic N-nitrosamines! This is why I can no longer reccomend foliar feeding to "green up" a garden.


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Drumsintown The truth is any extra fertilizer fed to Mary - over the limit, ends up stored in plant tissues. Since, we smoke those tissues (buds / leaves) there is no way to get around it completely.
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Now, I have always advocated not foliar feeding the last month, because of the potential to promote mold. I live in the South & the humidity here is a real b*tch sometimes. 
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All these Mega-Super-PowerLoad Ferts, with numbers that are insane, like 9-50-30 are the major causes of this problem. If you've ever smoked em, they taste like chemicals. I smoked some a bud was bragging on a couple of weeks ago. Hydro Grown using that shit, tasted just like Kerosine.... Yuck. One hit & that was it. I politely told him, no more for me.
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If you don't fertilize the last two weeks, Mary will break down lots of stored NPK and use it to finish buds. I am not trying to grow centerfold quality picture plants, so the yellowing leaves - don't bother me one bit. I've always found, by coasting home at the end. The Bud is Sweeter. Do you give up a little yield ? Yes, but so what. I had rather smoke a pound of pleasant tasting bud, than a pound & two ounces that tastes like crap.
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From what I've been reading recently on Vaporizers, I believe I'm going to pick one up. By not burning the plant tissue, you release more of the THC and allot, I mean allot less cancer causing substances. That's a plus, because I like to smoke a cigar, once & a while. Giving up half the smoke, would probably be good in the long run.
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Just my two cents worth.. & something to consider...
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Keep it Real...Organic....
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## Seamaiden (Aug 12, 2008)

My oldest son likes using a vaporizer. His mother has a problem letting what appears to be smokeable bud go without giving it another try.


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## Ohsogreen (Aug 17, 2008)

Seamaiden said:


> My oldest son likes using a vaporizer. His mother has a problem letting what appears to be smokeable bud go without giving it another try.


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I hear vapes get like 85-95 percent of the THC out, without the burn. Are you ever able to get a buzz off the left overs ?
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Well, I'm making a big batch of compost tea today. The compost smells great - nice earthy & sweet, so I know it's going to be a good batch.
This batch will be used to green up Ohsogreens lawn.
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I laugh at my neighbors, who pay a lawn care service $ 50 every two weeks to drop by and spray some liquid N on their lawns to keep them green.
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I think, with the electricity I'll using to bubble it - I might be out $ .50 and my lawn is nice & healthy. 
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Keep it Real...Organic...
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## jojobeans (Aug 17, 2008)

Ohsogreen said:


> Angus You are quite welcome. I am always glad to help anyone switch to Organics.
> It's just a better, simpler way to grow. & Cheaper most of the time.
> .
> .


 I too like Organics. I don't know much about them but what I've been able to red in the forums. I use alfalfa meal, bat guano, molasses, and fish emulsion in my tea.


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## meluvyoulongtime (Aug 19, 2008)

Ohsogreen, the tea that you make, would this be the same idea as using a liquid plant food(Fox Farm for example)? Basically what I am saying is, you only feed your plants with this all organic tea and no store bought stuff? 

I am a first time grower and decided organics over hydro.

i have tons-O-questions to ask, hope you can help.


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## Ohsogreen (Aug 20, 2008)

meluvyoulongtime said:


> Ohsogreen, the tea that you make, would this be the same idea as using a liquid plant food(Fox Farm for example)? Basically what I am saying is, you only feed your plants with this all organic tea and no store bought stuff?
> 
> I am a first time grower and decided organics over hydro.
> 
> i have tons-O-questions to ask, hope you can help.


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Yes.. Basically I do just that. I make rabbit manure, chicken manure, worm castings & bat guano teas - and use them as my primary fertilizer sources.
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Now, if you live in an apartment - Foxfarm is great. But if you live, where you can bubble some tea on the back porch, backyard or in the garage - Why no do it yourself & save some dough....
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Feel free to ask all the questions you want and I ( and many others ) will help. 
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Keep it Real...Organic....
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## buffalosoulja (Aug 21, 2008)

ohso, When you water are you using pure water our the molasses water mix?


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## meluvyoulongtime (Aug 21, 2008)

Ohsogreen said:


> .
> Yes.. Basically I do just that. I make rabbit manure, chicken manure, worm castings & bat guano teas - and use them as my primary fertilizer sources.
> .
> Now, if you live in an apartment - Foxfarm is great. But if you live, where you can bubble some tea on the back porch, backyard or in the garage - Why no do it yourself & save some dough....
> ...


 
Can we PM on these forums? haha

i have no problem making up my own tea! Now I need to do some more research as to what tea to make and when its best to use it. i saw another of your post where you had said you use a certain tea at a certain time of the plants growth.

I dont want to hijack this guys thread, but I have one more question:

what is your soild consist of? i was thinking of Fox farm Ocean Forest and perlite...is this a good soil mixture or could other stuff be added to it? 

thank you soo much!


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## drumsinttown (Aug 21, 2008)

That is a great mixture in my opinion... on my first grow with it. My only reccomendation is that you can't put too much perlite in it. I would reccomend as much as 2:3 mix of perlite to soil mix. 

It seems that ocean forest is definitely enriched enough that it feeds your plants up to the first tea application at the very least. 

Happy planting!


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## Your Grandfather (Aug 28, 2008)

Hey Ohso..... Maximum respect and the most positive of vibrations to you.

I can now die in peace knowing you are carrying forward the organic ways.

Don't forget the Mycorrhizae. Root and Mycorr get along famously.

Jah, Rastafar InI


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## anhedonia (Aug 28, 2008)

great thread. I m starting my first all organic SOG and am thrilled that Ive made the change. https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/103621-organic-white-berry-sog-med.html


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## Ohsogreen (Aug 29, 2008)

buffalosoulja said:


> ohso, When you water are you using pure water our the molasses water mix?


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Buffalosoulja... From week 1 until week 3 (only plain unchlorinated water). At week three, a regular strength dose of Super Plant Tonic. Then I wait two or three days and feed a low dose (grow tea). With an NPK range of 4-2-4 to 6-3-6. 
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After that, 1/2 strength SPT with plain water every week, feedings every two weeks. But the soil, I start in already has Organic fertilizers (compost, bunny manure or bat guano, & alfalfa meal) mixed in. That is why I feed lightly. I want the roots to spread out looking for food and water.
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If you start out with strong does of fertilizer, you basically hender root development. Since, Mary only stretches here roots as far as she needs to get food & water. 
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If you water on the outside rim of your container, or six inches out from the main stem - she will reach out for the water - improving root growth. Then the myco fungi in SPT have more root surface to tap into and feed.
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Doing it this way, keeps Mary shorter & bushier - which is what I prefer.
Then as time goes by, I increase the strength of my teas just slightly. If in between feedings, a plant starts to show any sign of needing something. I adjust as I go. In my book, feeding low, slow & steady gets better results.
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If you overwater and overfertilize, you cause so many problems - they become much harder to sort out.
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Hope this Helps.....
Keep it Real... Organic... sorry, it took me so long to respond....
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## Ohsogreen (Aug 29, 2008)

Your Grandfather said:


> Hey Ohso..... Maximum respect and the most positive of vibrations to you.
> I can now die in peace knowing you are carrying forward the organic ways.
> Don't forget the Mycorrhizae. Root and Mycorr get along famously.
> Jah, Rastafar InI


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Grandfather... Thanks for the compliment. But don't check out just yet. Solid Organic Knowledge is needed in these troubling times of High Dollar Fert Company Dominance. They are steadily trying to brainwash the younger generation into buying $ 15 - 25 dollar a bottle ferts - Man, that's just Criminal. (Corporate Greed - chasing a dollar).
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We the older (seasoned) generation need to pass on the basics to show, growing does not have to be expensive or require a lab coat. I heard an old guy say one *" Closer to Nature - Closer to Right "* and I can't agree more. Soil with life in it, grows better buds. 
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I try to get on here a least every other day, but it doesn't always happen - work, family functions and life in general just gets busy sometimes. So, jump in and throw out some tips, tricks and seasoned common sense. We can all learn something new everyday - if someone shares.
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Keep it Real...Organic.... & share the knowledge....
Peace to you & yours......


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## Ohsogreen (Aug 29, 2008)

anhedonia said:


> great thread. I m starting my first all organic SOG and am thrilled that Ive made the change. https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/103621-organic-white-berry-sog-med.html


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Anhedonia.... + rep For taking the road less traveled. It is really the most rewarding one. We (OG's - Organic Growers) are glad you made the switch. Soon, you will see - it's not really hard & is definitely is less costly..
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Nothing beats Organic Grown Bud.....
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Closer to Nature - Closer to Right.
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## Ohsogreen (Aug 29, 2008)

meluvyoulongtime said:


> I dont want to hijack this guys thread, but I have one more question:
> 
> what does your soil consist of? i was thinking of Fox farm Ocean Forest and perlite...is this a good soil mixture or could other stuff be added to it?
> thank you soo much!


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Meluvyoulongtime.... I mix my own soil several buckets at at time (using 5 gallons buckets). My formula is 2 parts compost, 1 part pertilite, 2 parts peat moss, 3 cups of worm castings, one cup of High N Bat Guano, one cup of alfalfa meal and with one half cup of dolimite lime. I then moisten it in the bucket and let it sit over night before use.
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Fox Farm Ocean Forest is an excellant soil mix - like Drumsinttown said, I'd mix in some pertilite - but go easy on it. Keep it to 10-20 percent pertilite, since OF is already a light fluffy mix. Too much pertilite and it will float upwards, when watered heavily. OF is so well made, it does not need anything else. It is some real Kick-A*s stuff - worth every penny if you are not a DIY guy or just don't have the time to mix your own.
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Hey ... Drumsinttown - my wife wants to know what happened to your " Big Sexy Cowboy " avatar....???? Don't get me wrong, she likes the Terminator too, but she really liked the cowboy....  She (looking over my shoulder) was confused when she saw your name, but no Cowboy Avatar.... Well, she just informed me, she will not hold it against you - since you are an OG. 
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Keep it Real...Organic.....
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## drumsinttown (Aug 29, 2008)

My girlfriend decided to take her phone pictures and start making me avatar pictures out of the cat....

so now you get... one big headache of a gif.

BTW... if you aren't familiar with who that was in the avatar pic, you HAVE to see trailer park boys. really funny canadian mockumentary show


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## psoulocybe (Aug 29, 2008)

This thread has brightened up my day. In June, I started my first indoor grow. Lots of friends told me their input, and most recommended a simple hydro system. I ignored all of them. I went with what I had on hand. Dirt, peat, coir, vermiculite, perlite, vermiculite, bat guano. Earthy products. I told them my experiences with smoking plants grown with similar products and never finding something that equaled it. I started simple, and slowly worked into top coats of guano and castings, and since I initiated flowering, I've started with guano/casting teas. Molasses is another I've worked in, though lightly, and have seen nothing but less gnats.

I've lost no plants, and 12 of 16 have been female. I pretended I was growing tomatoes back home on the farm. 

I can't attest to the taste yet, but I can tell you that I've felt really good about it. It's actually been more medicinal than going to a cafe. 

Keep on rocking out what Mother Earth gave us! Stick to her plan and you'll always be able to enjoy 'the stickiest of the icky!'


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## Ohsogreen (Aug 30, 2008)

psoulocybe said:


> This thread has brightened up my day. In June, I started my first indoor grow. Lots of friends told me their input, and most recommended a simple hydro system. I ignored all of them. I went with what I had on hand. Dirt, peat, coir, vermiculite, perlite, vermiculite, bat guano. Earthy products. I told them my experiences with smoking plants grown with similar products and never finding something that equaled it. I started simple, and slowly worked into top coats of guano and castings, and since I initiated flowering, I've started with guano/casting teas. Molasses is another I've worked in, though lightly, and have seen nothing but less gnats.
> 
> I've lost no plants, and 12 of 16 have been female. I pretended I was growing tomatoes back home on the farm.
> 
> ...


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Amen ! Closer to Nature - Closer to Right. 
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For the last 10 years, for me - only Soil - only Organic. All my Hydro friends compliment my bud and wish theirs tasted so..goooood........
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Keep up the good work....spread the word......Organic Buds are Best !!!
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Keep it Real....Organic....
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## Ohsogreen (Aug 30, 2008)

drumsinttown said:


> My girlfriend decided to take her phone pictures and start making me avatar pictures out of the cat....
> 
> so now you get... one big headache of a gif.
> 
> BTW... if you aren't familiar with who that was in the avatar pic, you HAVE to see trailer park boys. really funny canadian mockumentary show


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Drumsinttown....You avatar is Freakin Me Out Man... Freakin Me Out Man... Too much crazy cat action for Ohsogreen....Ah...AH...AHH.. 
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Warning : Old people are more easily made dizzy or confused by rapidly moving objects, such as trippy cats - please proceed with care....
LOL.....
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Yes...we've caught a few episodes of the Trailer Park Boys...incredably funny stuff... Canadian comedians are a blast, we used to watch another show called Boys in the Hall - allot tamer - but also funny.
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Keep it Real...Organic.....
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## whulkamania (Aug 30, 2008)

When I saw this I thought it was a tutorial how to make tea when you eat breakfast .


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## Seamaiden (Aug 30, 2008)

I LOVE Kids in the Hall! That show was hilarious!

Got a question for you again, Ohso. It's been pretty hot past couple of days, and I'm seeing just a few leaves on a couple of plants that look like the pix I've seen indoor plants that have been burned by the lights. They are a bit heat stressed, but the balcony has great air movement (called wind) and they've been doing a lot better since I got them pretty much dialed in with your previous advice. Should I worry about what I'm seeing?


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## anhedonia (Aug 30, 2008)

Kids in the hall is the shit! Those are some crazy cross dressing fools. One of my favorites is the one where kevin mcdonald is sitting at a diner across from dave foley and he is discribing the movie citizen Kane but as he discribes it macdonald keeps telling him that hes dicribing citizen kane which he is doing to a tee but unwittingly refuting macdonald that he is indeed positively sure that the movie hes talking about is NOT citizen kane but it clearly is. And somone gets stabbed in the hand with a fork during thier arguement. ITs sooooooooooo funny!


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## Ohsogreen (Aug 30, 2008)

Seamaiden said:


> I LOVE Kids in the Hall! That show was hilarious!
> 
> Got a question for you again, Ohso. It's been pretty hot past couple of days, and I'm seeing just a few leaves on a couple of plants that look like the pix I've seen indoor plants that have been burned by the lights. They are a bit heat stressed, but the balcony has great air movement (called wind) and they've been doing a lot better since I got them pretty much dialed in with your previous advice. Should I worry about what I'm seeing?


.
Heat Stress will stunt growth and can kill potted plants. It happens more easily because the pot only has a small volume of soil compared to in ground plants. That smaller volume of soil heats up much quicker than the ground, but it also will cool down quicker. 
.
Since, you can easily move your plants. I would do so everyday or shade them, for an hour or two, during the hottest part of the day. That short break is all they really need to prevent getting root & foliar fried. A nice, retractable awning might be a good additional to your sun deck.
.
Keep it Real...Organic....
.


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## NotMine (Aug 30, 2008)

That is very interesting, thanks for all the good info..not just this thread but everyone.... everyone needs teas and tea reciepes I agree with the whole brainwashing thing also commercial fertilizer is nasty I don't really want things laying around for my dogs to get into and I can't stand the aftertaste of over fert hydro (theres lots of it where I live) go organic or go home cause I'm not smoking it...sorry I don't care if you flush if you use that stuff it's like watering your plant with salt water blahh plus I like soil as a buffer just feel safer with it.


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## OrarkCray (Aug 30, 2008)

Ohsogreen said:


> Jan The answer to your question is: Organic Teas are great for the veggie growth phase & pre-flowering. After that, I do not foliar spray them, I only water them in. I don't want to risk Bud Mold. Plus, when Mary starts pumping up her trichromes they act like velcro - holding onto to things.
> .
> I just think it's best not to foliar feed, as a rule, after preflowering starts.
> Some people will disagree, but someone always does.
> ...


 I have to agree with this man 100% no foliar after at least 3 week flower. I also agree with the organic theory, I have grown mother tomatore plants for years. moms will only last 1 to 5 years with inorganic nutes, 5-20 years with organic nutes. The clones are all fine but the mother itself does not like organic nutes after 5 years.


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## Seamaiden (Aug 31, 2008)

Hats off and I raise my future cuppa joe (gotta be brewed) to you who've been doing this and are sharing your knowledge. I really hope I am able to attain a level of knowledge that might approach yours, and I am also hopeful I can get this whole organic thing completely dialed in.


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## brendon420 (Aug 31, 2008)

if this question has already been asked please refer me to the post number, but how long of a shelf life do teas typically have?


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## Ohsogreen (Aug 31, 2008)

brendon420 said:


> if this question has already been asked please refer me to the post number, but how long of a shelf life do teas typically have?


.
Brendon420.... If you keep your tea oxygenated by bubbling it (with a cheap aquarium air pump) - as long as the air pump stays on, it stays good (just becoming more soluble every day). 
.
If you mix it by stiring or pouring it bucket to bucket daily for a few days, you have about 3 days after the 3 rd day (of intial mixing) - to start using it before it starts to turns sour on you. 
.
.


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## Ghost420 (Aug 31, 2008)

Subscribed gonna do this when i can


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## brendon420 (Aug 31, 2008)

would you suggest making small amounts at a time?


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## Seamaiden (Sep 1, 2008)

What I've been doing is continually replenishing with fresh water, then add my castings/guano/molasses + about a tablespoon of SPT. It's gotta be stirred vigorously at least once a day and shaded (shading seems to make the most difference). I'm feeding 9 girls, one's in a 4 gallon pot, and I mix up about.. I'm gonna guess it's about 3-4 gallons of this tea, sometimes less. The lower it gets in the bin, the less stirring it needs because it's got a nice, big surface-area-to-volume ratio.


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## brendon420 (Sep 1, 2008)

so keeping it shaded, as in a shady covered cool area?


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## catincombs (Sep 2, 2008)

brendon420 said:


> so keeping it shaded, as in a shady covered cool area?


Brendo420 The reason you want to mix up such elixirs in the shade is to avoid having UV sunlight kill the bacteria in your mix. Direct sunlight kills both good and bad bacteria. If you keep the mix supplied with plenty of oxygen, the good bacteria will thrive and kill off the bad ones. So, keep the oxygen flowing and your elixir out of the sunlight.
I would not mix up more than five gallons at a pop. I just mix what I need as I go.


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## xochi (Sep 2, 2008)

what would you do for hydroponics?


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## OIsmoked12 (Sep 4, 2008)

Xochi Try some BMO ferts, they are great. Take some of the SPT, put it in a bucket with one ounce of molasses & one gallon of water, then bubble it. The bacteria & fungi in it, will break down the molasses to nice golden color. I feed that in between ferts & after res dumps. Seems to be working great. Gives my plants a nice mellow tea between feedings. I split it, between 6 plants. Don't ask me how many ounces that is per plant, my math skills suck.

I'm going to make some other teas from worm castings and rabbit poo, like Ohsogreen suggest, but just real concerntrated. Then I'm going to filter them and try them in small doses in my reserviors. I'm doing six DWC bubblers. I'll let you know how they work. The receipes are on the first or second page of this thread.


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## Seamaiden (Sep 4, 2008)

Poop tea, who'da thunk?  I mean, seriously, if ANYONE had asked two years ago what I thought of poop tea, I'd have laughed in their face. Now I can't get enough of the stuff! LMAO!!


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## Ohsogreen (Sep 7, 2008)

Plants say " Hey, give me that Shit.... I like it...."


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## camaro630hp (Sep 7, 2008)

what up just stoppn in 2 say hello


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## doggod (Sep 7, 2008)

Earthfort Online: Compost Tea Brewing Equipment & Literature

check out this site for some good info if you want to learn about soil biology. they also sell the best humus for making tea. you need bacteria and funghi in the soil. 

Soil Foodweb, Inc.

these guys will test your soil.
i prefer black gold over fox farm. and it is certified organic, for the medical use.

i only add sugars when watering the soil. i find it makes the tea go anaerobic if using it as food for the bacteria. try using some seaweed/kelp. i only make enough for one dose at a time, as it starts going anaerobic after 3 days in just airated water, they need soil to live. just add the shit to the top of the soil and mix it into the first 2 inches really well. do not forget the add mico powder directly to the roots when trans planting. with this method you will not need to add perlite to fox farm of black gold.


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## doggod (Sep 7, 2008)

shit = bat guano and the like


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## Ohsogreen (Sep 7, 2008)

camaro630hp said:


> what up just stoppn in 2 say hello


.
Camaro630hp.... Hello back & nice avatar. Do you know her, or did you just grab her from the net ? 
.
Ohsogreen approves of Carbon Based Lifeforms in Avatars....
.
Now that's Organic....
.


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## camaro630hp (Sep 7, 2008)

lolol
yes i did find this 1 on the net 




Ohsogreen said:


> .
> Camaro630hp.... Hello back & nice avatar. Do you know her, or did you just grab her from the net ?
> .
> Ohsogreen approves of Carbon Based Lifeforms in Avatars....
> ...


----------



## camaro630hp (Sep 7, 2008)

thanks 4 info 



doggod said:


> shit = bat guano and the like


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## doggod (Sep 9, 2008)

had to clarify what is mixed with soil.


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## jasno (Sep 13, 2008)

so what would be the poor mans organic tea?

i see someone said walmart sells worm castings? 

any other tips for someone who wants to go organic but is broke?


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## drumsinttown (Sep 13, 2008)

dood.... you can order bat guano for dirt cheap. check ebay.


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## Ohsogreen (Sep 13, 2008)

jasno said:


> so what would be the poor mans organic tea?
> 
> i see someone said walmart sells worm castings?
> 
> any other tips for someone who wants to go organic but is broke?


.
Jasno.... You can buy a 40 pound bag of Scott's Brand Cow Manure Compost at Home Depot for around $ 5. In you back yard, fire up the BBQ grill, after the coals are white - take the biggest cooking pot you have, fill it half full of your compost - add water until it's covered and boil for at least 10 minutes.
.
That will kill every pathogen (bad bacteria) in the mix and concentrate the organic goodies in it. After a good boiling, take it off the grill and let it cool completely down. I recommend firing up a joint and watching a movie, after removing the pot from the grill.
.
Later, pour your compost tea concentrate into some left over milk jugs or Mt. Dew 2 liter bottles. A cheap funnel really helps. Everyday, until you use all of it, shake it up, or pour it into a bucket, then back into the bottles or jugs - to keep it oxygenated. Using a cheap aquarium air pump & air stone really makes oxygenating your mix easy. Well, worth the $ 10 you will spend - since, it will last for years - only being used to make organic teas.
.
Pour one quart per plant, every four days, and watch those babies grow !
.
Also, if you haven't already read it, check out the first page of this thread. 
.
Keep it Real...Organic.....


----------



## surryman (Sep 13, 2008)

Again fine words Ohso,my prob is finding bat guano in Oz,can you recomend something similar?Y.esterday the temp got to 31c and the bubs loved it .I'm off to town tomorrow passing many farms,will go and lift some cow pats to make some tea.Have you ever run into Subcool?seems like you'd have a bit to chat about.


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## drumsinttown (Sep 13, 2008)

I believe you gotta compost the cow poop before you can make tea out of it.... could be mistaken there....


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## Jolly G' the Giant (Sep 14, 2008)

quick question: How much of Cottonseed meal and Rock phosphate would you add to a gallon of water; for a tea?


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## anhedonia (Sep 14, 2008)

is there any books on organic horticulture you could recommend ?


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## Seamaiden (Sep 15, 2008)

surryman said:


> Again fine words Ohso,my prob is finding bat guano in Oz,can you recomend something similar?Y.esterday the temp got to 31c and the bubs loved it .I'm off to town tomorrow passing many farms,will go and lift some cow pats to make some tea.Have you ever run into Subcool?seems like you'd have a bit to chat about.


Wow, no bat poop in Oz? You've got plenty of them, and so has Indonesia. Chicken shit's good, as is seabird guano. I have problems finding supplies up here, too (Sierra Nevada of California), I feel your frustration. Have you seen Ohso's thread about the Three Amazing Shits (and he wasn't talking about me and my sisters, either!)?

And you're right, I bet Ohso and subcool would have lots to chat on about.


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## llLOU (Sep 15, 2008)

surryman said:


> Again fine words Ohso,my prob is finding bat guano in Oz,can you recomend something similar?Y.esterday the temp got to 31c and the bubs loved it .I'm off to town tomorrow passing many farms,will go and lift some cow pats to make some tea.Have you ever run into Subcool?seems like you'd have a bit to chat about.


\ No bats in Oz.? come on mate , I know some Ozzies , and they are ALL bat shit crazy....

Bunnie wabbit poop works great also , actually you can make a compost tea out of anything , even clippings and weeds from the garden. The main thing to remember is that fresh poop from ANY animal source will be too hot to put onto plants , it will burn them , I'm guessing too much Nitrogen.
Good luck.


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## 0849 (Sep 15, 2008)

hows digesting weed thats been grown for a steer manure tea? just curious that wouldn't be like spinach ecol i


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## drumsinttown (Sep 15, 2008)

Just to reiterate from the vermicomposting thread, you can compost passing bananas as a great potassium source for your compost. 

Pretty much every dr earth product I own (bone meal, Bat guano, kelp meal, 
Dolomite Lime) has a note on the side of it reccomending adding to the compost pile to help fix nitrogen, phosphorous, or potassium. Kelp meal makes a great amendment to your compost pile for potassium as well. 
Worm castings can be pretty easily found as well for a great nitrogen source that comes with all kinds of goodies.


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## Ohsogreen (Sep 15, 2008)

0849 said:


> hows digesting weed thats been grown for a steer manure tea? just curious that wouldn't be like spinach ecol i


.
0849 ...... Organic ferts used in the growth phase of any plant, don't impart a weird taste. Taste only comes into play the last three weeks of flowering..
.
Properly composting or pasturizing fresh manures - kills the ecoli and many other bad bacteria. Use of benefical bacteria & fungi - like in Myco Magic, Plant Sucess, Sub Culture or Super Plant Tonic - ensures they stay out of your container, res or soil.
.
I also recommend never foliar feeding any unpasturized manure tea, after Mary has begun to flower. Two reasons - reduces the chance of bold mold & reduces the chance of undesirable bacteria on your buddage....
.
Keep it Real... Organic....
.


----------



## doggod (Sep 16, 2008)

tea is made from compost not shit.

shit is mixed with soil and the roots can get the nutrients it needs.

shit can be made into fertilizer with the methods described in this feed. however it is not tea.

tea contains no nutrients just bacteria, fungi, and protozoa, which aid the roots in feeding by breaking down the shit and eating bad things in the soil. tea also helps build a strong leaf micro culture when sprayed, that protects it from bugs and mold.


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## Seamaiden (Sep 17, 2008)

I think that technically tea can be made from anything. 

Just sayin'.


drumsinttown said:


> Just to reiterate from the vermicomposting thread, you can compost passing bananas as a great potassium source for your compost.
> 
> Pretty much every dr earth product I own (bone meal, Bat guano, kelp meal,
> Dolomite Lime) has a note on the side of it reccomending adding to the compost pile to help fix nitrogen, phosphorous, or potassium. Kelp meal makes a great amendment to your compost pile for potassium as well.
> Worm castings can be pretty easily found as well for a great nitrogen source that comes with all kinds of goodies.


I really love the Dr. Earth, but ended up going with a Happy Frog mix this last time because it better met my plants' needs (somewhat persistent Mg deficiency) and I felt that the Happy Frog came a little closer to being a more complete fertilizer. However, make a tea with Dr. Earth, such as Organic 5, and it smells wonderful. Make a tea with Happy Frog Japanese maple, and it smells like gack (I forgot about the bone and feather meal in it). 

So far my favorite overall tea is worm castings, molasses, and guano (depending on what I'm doing with the plants that feeding). I really dig how that mix smells.


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## drumsinttown (Sep 17, 2008)

Curious question about the tea.... I am currently pulled back to using 1 tbsp of molasses per gallon, 1 tbsp of bat guano (high p 0-7-0), and 1 tbsp of kelp meal (.6-.5-2.5) and putting this on once every two weeks and watering r/o water inbetween about 2-3 times a week. 

My plants as you can see from photos in my journal have been doing the exact same thing they did last grow- yellowing both large and small leaves followed by large brown kind of bubbly spots of necrosis.... followed by complete wilting. This is at a rate of 6-10 leaves every time I go down to check on them daily. 

I curbed this problem last time in haste by dumping in about 1300 ppm solution of hydroponic flowering nutes that also contain all necessary micronutrients. Actually greened the plant right up. 

I am wondering if I need to add more micronutes or nitrogen, as it seems that i am putting more than enough phos and potassium. Any thoughts at all??? maybe some worm castings to amend the tea? Maybe some high n guano?


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## drumsinttown (Sep 17, 2008)

oh... just got the npk on those hydro nutes. 7-30-12. Plus full micronutrient supplement- cal/mag/iron 

Any thoughts at all on what this deficiency was? Maybe I'm just not feeding enough phosphorous?


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## drumsinttown (Sep 19, 2008)

Not a single thought, eh?


Would appreciate any and all thoughts.... Trial and error on making tea.... just a little help needed....

I mixed up my tea tonight... Just in case it was a magnesium problem (reading alot about the symptoms... seems pretty consistent.... ) put about a tsp of dolomite lime into the water to start. 

I then put into the two gallons of water: 
2 tbsp of grandma's unsulphured robust molasses... (1st molasses)
2 tbsp of high P Bat guano 0-7-0 
1 tbsp of Kelp meal .6-.5-2.5 
1 tbsp of worm castings
1 tbsp of Dr. Earth bat guano 10-3-1

Stirred vigorously.... Bubbling overnight.... Plan to dilute between 900 and 1300 ppm, ph to 6.3, and administer 1 Quart per plant. 

The bat guano and the worm castings were to make sure the plants aren't slightly deficient in nitrogen. I figure it couldn't hurt to put a small amount. Any thoughts on how to maybe better this tea would be greatly appreciated.


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## doggod (Sep 19, 2008)

cal-mag should fix it.


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## doggod (Sep 19, 2008)

Botanicare CAL- MAG PLUS 1Gal. - Interior Gardens


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## drumsinttown (Sep 19, 2008)

I ask this only because I don't want ohsogreen to take back his rep 

Is that stuff organic? 

I actually have a bottle of this stuff lying around that I have not used because I am nervous about nixing my all organic grow after 8 weeks

Techna Flora Magical


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## Ohsogreen (Sep 19, 2008)

drumsinttown said:


> I ask this only because I don't want ohsogreen to take back his rep
> 
> Is that stuff organic?
> 
> ...


.
Drumsinttown.... Techna Flora Magical is so close to right, it can't be wrong. It's main ingredients are all, very organic and could not be the by-product of some chemically rendered sludge.
.
I would give it a thumbs up and apply it low, slow & steady.....
.
Anyway...once an OG always an OG....... (*O*rganic *G*rower) - people, we aren't gansters..... LOL ....
.
Keep it Real...Organic......
.


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## Seamaiden (Sep 19, 2008)

I want to see a complete ingredient list, all they say is that it's highly enriched and provides these nutrients. They also have a few misspellings on the site.  (Maybe my diminishing eyesight will save them.)


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## drumsinttown (Sep 19, 2008)

Thanks for the reassurance!


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## gadget (Sep 22, 2008)

Oshoreen I would love to get your input on what I have to work with at the moment.

I have Bat Guano Super Grow, Bat Guano Super Bloom, Worm Castings, Organic Fish Emulsion, Organic Blood & Bone and unsulphured Molasses.

Should I use all of these products during both veg and flower and just change to the high P guano for flower or should I do something different?

Also do you think I will need to get anything else to help with my new crop and are all of these products ok to use?

My plants are in 100% organic soil with 5% perlite and 5% coco peat.

Thanks and + 1 rep


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## Ohsogreen (Sep 24, 2008)

gadget said:


> Ohsogeen I would love to get your input on what I have to work with at the moment.
> 
> I have Bat Guano Super Grow, Bat Guano Super Bloom, Worm Castings, Organic Fish Emulsion, Organic Blood & Bone and unsulphured Molasses.
> 
> ...


.
.
Gadget.... Use the Worm Castings during the first three weeks of growth. From week three until preflower use the Fish Emulsion, Grow Bat Guano, some Blood Meal (go easy it's a hot amendment - very soluble - can nute burn real easy) and Molasses. Mix them weakly, so you don't overfeed. You can add more if needed.
.
At week 7 of growth, start the Bone Meal and Bloom Bat Guano with Molasses - cut way back on the growth amendments. That way, the bloom amendments can start breaking down, for flowering. During flowering, just stick with these three. Unless, you notice yellowing of bottom leaves, too quickly. If so, use a weak Grow Bat Guano Tea.
.
Hope this helps...
Keep it Real....Organic....
.


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## gadget (Sep 24, 2008)

Ohsogreen said:


> .
> .
> Gadget.... Use the Worm Castings during the first three weeks of growth. From week three until preflower use the Fish Emulsion, Grow Bat Guano, some Blood Meal (go easy it's a hot amendment - very soluble - can nute burn real easy) and Molasses. Mix them weakly, so you don't overfeed. You can add more if needed.
> .
> ...



Thank you.. You have been a real help. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience.


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## Chookface (Sep 24, 2008)

just made my first tea the other day

1/4 gallon of Well Water ph 7.3
1/2 cup of castings
1/8 tsp Bio Tone Starter Plus 4-4-3
1/4 tsp of Liquid Karma
1/4 tsp of Neptune's Harvest 2-3-1
and a pinch of some coffee ground fungus

bubble for 24+ hours
strain and dilute with another 1/4 gallon of well water.
I gave that to my babies, theyre on they're 4th week. The next morning they looked better than ever. Teas are the SHIZ.


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## bagada (Sep 26, 2008)

what should i use in my tea?
i have unsteamed bone meal(6-9-0), foxfarm peace of mind dry pellet flowering, liquid seaweed, a little earth juice grow, and some gravity for flowering.
(later ill buy some molasses)


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## Seamaiden (Sep 26, 2008)

DON'T USE BONE MEAL! Seriously, if you do you'll wanna vomit. If you use even the smallest bit of bone meal to make a tea at first it's like, Oh! This smells like chicharrones.. mmmm...

Then the next day comes. And you think, OhmyfuckingGOD! What DIED OUT HERE???? "Smells like gack" is an understatement.

Teas are made from anything you like, really. Compost, molasses, manure, minerals, meals of all sorts. I use worm castings, molasses, and a bit of coffee grounds because my water's pH tends to be high and the coffee helps bring it down. Dr. Earth dry pre-mixed ferts are good, they smell nice. Happy Frog Japanese maple has bone meal, and my tea STILL STINKS. Can't wait to use it all up (but I'll be damned if I'm gonna throw it away).


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## drumsinttown (Sep 26, 2008)

don't toss that shit though! top dress with the bone meal.... Top dressed my unamended soil with dr. earth bone meal for my tomatoes and got some 
heirlooms the size of my fist this year


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## Seamaiden (Sep 26, 2008)

Man, I LOVE tomatoes.


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## Ohsogreen (Oct 5, 2008)

Ohsogreen.... Clicks his magic mouse and presto....this thread is recycled.......
.
.
Hope it helps...someone...
Keep it Real....Organic......
.


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## Ohsogreen (Oct 12, 2008)

Ohsogreen said:


> Ohsogreen.... Clicks his magic mouse and presto....this thread is recycled.......
> .


.
How about one more time.... back to the first page..... I hope this helps someone. 
.
Keep it Real....Organic.....
.


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## Isuckatlife (Oct 13, 2008)

Wow Ohso, your great. I just started growing a few weeks back andwas thinking about doing a ebb and flow with chem nutes for my flower room.

But you and the other on this thread have completely changed my mind. I'll be potting my mothers in all organic soil in a few weeks (I had them in rockwool grow blocks and was going to pot them with potting pellets)

After this it's off to the local nursery to see if I can find some of the stuff you have been talking about.

Organis sounds so much easier and cheaper, plus you all swear by the better tasting product.

I just want to make sure I have this right, when you plant you lil girls you only water them with the tea every other week and use plain water in between feeding? But how often do you foilair them?

Thanks again!


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## theorganicgreendude (Oct 13, 2008)

organics not only taste better, your also not smoking toxic chemicals which kill most everything living in the soil and are probably not good for your health.


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## bagada (Oct 14, 2008)

a big thing is if you can....get a fertalizer that YOU MAKE. like a bunny rabbit or worm farm. its much better than buying overpriced nutes. and its much more fun. the only fert thats worth buying is bat guano. buy the flowering one. use neem oil for bugs.


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## Ohsogreen (Oct 14, 2008)

Isuckatlife said:


> Wow Ohso, your great. I just started growing a few weeks back andwas thinking about doing a ebb and flow with chem nutes for my flower room.
> 
> But you and the other on this thread have completely changed my mind. I'll be potting my mothers in all organic soil in a few weeks (I had them in rockwool grow blocks and was going to pot them with potting pellets)
> 
> ...


.
Isuckatlife..... Organics are the way to go. Read the post:
.
https://www.rollitup.org/organics/93913-making-tea-ez-cheap.html it's full of helpful info. 
.
If making your own teas does not appeal to you, Botanicare Pure Blend Pro Ferts are real good, so are Earth Juice and BMO products. All will get the job done and all Organically.
.
For watering & feeding. I water one week & fertilize the next in rotation.
.
You can feed weakly - weekly, I just prefer the other.
.
In the long run, you'll see - Organic Growing can be cheaper, it's relaxing (Zen like to me) and the Buds taste Great. There are those who will argue, saying " Hydro Chem Growing yields more & is faster " - I will not argue with that. But I'm not in this for commercial interest. 
.
I care about what I put into my body. My buds smoke smooth as silk and have just as much, if not more, punch - than any hydro bud on the block. Never any harsh chemical tasting buds on the Ohsogreen Plantation....
.
Drop into Subcools (sub-forum) and give his Canopy Management thread a read. It's very good and provides tons of dead on info, he learned over twenty years of growing. I think you will like it, I've been growing 30 years, and I did.
.
I'm glad you are going Organic, it's not just for Hippies. You don't have to wear tye-dye, sandals and swear off Starbucks. I'm currently wearing some Carhart duds, work boots and drinking a big ole' cup of Starbucks, with a double expresso shot right now. LOL... 
.
So, welcome and if you have questions ask them. We're the fun & friendly crowd in this forum....
.
Keep it Real....Organic......
.


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## swishatwista (Oct 17, 2008)

Hey ohsogreen, thanks for all of the OG knowledge. I plan on doing a sog with some kush in about a week, all organically of course. I'm going to use worm castings, molasses, high P bat guano, and SPT from BMO. I live with my dad (but he gives me my privacy) so i kind of want the tea process low key. I was wondering how much of each i should put into my mix, but i only plan to make about 3 gallons at a time. And will this mixture stink too much? 
I'm


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## swishatwista (Oct 17, 2008)

lol damn, prematurely sent it, -continued- ..I'm getting ahead of my self with the flowering mix cause i still need to mix up my growth tea for my mothers first, and then take clones from them and start up my flowering tea. Could you give me a good ingredient list of the growth stage materials for a tea(and the amounts, ill be making 2 gallons for my mothers), and also the amounts for my flowering mix? Apreciate it ohsogreen, and o yea..nothings more organic than brewed green tea, some prefer coffee but green tea is the shit. Thanks ohso


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## Ohsogreen (Oct 17, 2008)

swishatwista said:


> lol damn, prematurely sent it, -continued- ..I'm getting ahead of my self with the flowering mix cause i still need to mix up my growth tea for my mothers first, and then take clones from them and start up my flowering tea. Could you give me a good ingredient list of the growth stage materials for a tea(and the amounts, ill be making 2 gallons for my mothers), and also the amounts for my flowering mix? Apreciate it ohsogreen, and o yea..nothings more organic than brewed green tea, some prefer coffee but green tea is the shit. Thanks ohso


.
Swishatwista..... Start with two gallons of unchlorinated water & add :

(2) Level teaspoons of High N Bat Guano
(1) Level cup of Worm Castings
(1) ounce of molasses
(2) ounces of SPT

Now, if you're bubbling it with a cheap aquarium air pump / air stone - let it run for two days straight (min). Then start taking out a little to feed with. If you are just doing the pouring it bucket to bucket method. Stir it good twice a day and pour from bucket to bucket - three days (min) - then start using it. Either way you mix it, keep it bubbling or poured daily to mix in oxygen to keep it sweet (prefered for use). If just left standing - it will turn sour (aneorbic) in two days.
.
One quart per plant weekly or ...... Two quarts per plant if you feed every two weeks.
.
Use that starting at week 4 of veggie growth, if your soil has some NPK in it. If not, use it at half strength (dilute with plain water) at week 3.
.
Hope this helps....
Keep it Real...Organic.....
.


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## OIsmoked12 (Oct 18, 2008)

Ohso I enjoy your post. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us, lacking in experience. Well, in the grow dept. LOL. I finished up a DWC grow and it turned out really good, but I'm going back to soil. My question is : Is bunny poop a good enough amendment to buy ? I saw some on ebay for around $ 10 for 9 pounds, that included shipping. How much tea could I make from 9 pounds of bunny poop ?


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## Ohsogreen (Oct 18, 2008)

OIsmoked12 said:


> Ohso I enjoy your post. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us, lacking in experience. Well, in the grow dept. LOL. I finished up a DWC grow and it turned out really good, but I'm going back to soil. My question is : Is bunny poop a good enough amendment to buy ? I saw some on ebay for around $ 10 for 9 pounds, that included shipping. How much tea could I make from 9 pounds of bunny poop ?


.
OIsmoked12..... Bunny poop is a good source of NPK. $ 10 for 9 pounds to your door is fair, provided it's not real fresh. The moisture content of fresh bunny poop makes a smaller amount, heavier. If it's dry or semi-dry, then that's a good deal. You will get 16 gallons of tea out of each gallon, of bunny poop. (16 cups in a gallon / one cup of bunny poop to a gallon of water for tea). So, I'd ask the seller, if that 9 pounds filled a gallon zip lock bag. That way, you would know how much they are offering for the $ 10.
.
You might also consider, stopping by a PetCo or another big Pet Store. Often they will give away the bunny poop for free, kind of like how Starbucks gives away used coffee grounds for gardening. It cuts down on the waste, they paid to have hauled away and helps recycle things. Best of all, it's Free.
.
Keep it Real...Organic.....
.


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## buffalosoulja (Oct 18, 2008)

Ohso, i currently use mexican and jamaican guano, wormcastings molasses, and mycorrhazae for my tea. Will i benefit by using bunny poop? I live right down the street from petco, and petsmart, bet i could get all kinds of poop.


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## Ohsogreen (Oct 18, 2008)

buffalosoulja said:


> Ohso, i currently use mexican and jamaican guano, wormcastings molasses, and mycorrhazae for my tea. Will i benefit by using bunny poop? I live right down the street from petco, and petsmart, bet i could get all kinds of poop.


.
Buffalosoulja..... If your using Mexican (High N) & Jamaican (High P) Bat Guanos for your grow, it's hard to get any better than that. I said Cadillac, but I'm Old School. I guess I should have said Lexus quality.
.
Now, being the Frugal guy that I am. Free fertilizer always appeals to me. In my opinion, Bat Guanos are top notch, but Bunny Poop is no slacker. It's a great amendment too. It's easy to work with, can be top dressed, mixed in (in moderation) and made into tea. Plus if you vermicompost, worms love it and it makes great quality worm castings in the end.
.
Keep it Real....Organic.....


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## buffalosoulja (Oct 18, 2008)

I was unaware of all the free poop i have access to. People offered free bunny, chicken, cow and horse manure. I was unaware thar horse and cow manure have to composted first and my compost was not set up. So i bought the guano (everytime i hear that i think of Ace Ventura Pet detective 2). Does chicken manure have to be composted first. By the way preciate the help.


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## Ohsogreen (Oct 18, 2008)

buffalosoulja said:


> I was unaware of all the free poop i have access to. People offered free bunny, chicken, cow and horse manure. I was unaware thar horse and cow manure have to composted first and my compost was not set up. So i bought the guano (everytime i hear that i think of Ace Ventura Pet detective 2). Does chicken manure have to be composted first. By the way preciate the help.


.
Buffalosoulja..... All manures but three, need composted - they are Worm Castings, Bunny Poop and Bat Guano. That is why I started that thread about the Three Amazing Shits. To me, every OG (Organic Grower) needs these in their toolbox. They all work well, are pretty easy to get and store well (until needed).
.
For horse, sheep, cow, chicken...etc... I always give them a thorough composting before use. I also recommend you don't use pig manure, because it can contain many bad parasites. Plus it really stinks, beyound, my nasal odor limits.
.
Just outside the city limits, where I live, you can always find people giving away horse, cow & chicken manure for free. I get a load of horse manure once a year, from some really nice people, who even load my truck with their tractor for me. I always bring them some nice veggies as a thank you.
.
Hope this helps....
Keep it Real....Organic....
.


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## Seamaiden (Oct 18, 2008)

That thread title still makes me giggle. The Three Amazing Shits.


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## swishatwista (Oct 19, 2008)

Ohsogreen, thanks for the mixture amounts. I realized im going to need a different light for my mothers(probably 2 or 3). Is there a certian kind of light, maybe a type of fluro, that will be cheap and effective for these 3 ladies. Im going to have them im about a 3x3 box. I want to maintain them but not promote too much growth, but also give them proper light spectrum for some real healthy plants. So what kind of lights would you use?


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## anhedonia (Oct 19, 2008)

The spectra max 246 watt fixture is pretty bad ass and will grow some killer weed in a 3x3 area. Spectra Max High Output Fluorescent / HP Sodium Hybrid Plant Grow Light Systems by Sunlight Supply at Home Harvest Garden Supply


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## Ohsogreen (Oct 19, 2008)

swishatwista said:


> Ohsogreen, thanks for the mixture amounts. I realized im going to need a different light for my mothers(probably 2 or 3). Is there a certian kind of light, maybe a type of fluro, that will be cheap and effective for these 3 ladies. Im going to have them im about a 3x3 box. I want to maintain them but not promote too much growth, but also give them proper light spectrum for some real healthy plants. So what kind of lights would you use?


.
Swishatwista.... You need at least 50 watts of Daylight Spectrum (6500K) CFL's per mom (min) to keep them short, shout & healthy. 80 watts per mom would be optimum. 
.
T-5's are all the rage right now and for good reason. These small lights put out allot of lumens for their size. They come in grow (5000k or higher) or bloom (3000k & under) spectrums and last a long time. Anything between 3000k & 5000k is a neutral range (good for both grow & bloom - but not optimal for either). You can get them in 2, 3 or 4 foot lengths for around $ 25-30 each. Most makers, build a plug-in socket into the end of each one so you can daisy chain them.
.
Or you could group a few CFL screw in bulbs in that small space. I've got a friend who bought two bathroom lighting fixtures (the kind you put over the top of a mirror) at a discount warehouse for $ 8 each, that have 4 screw-in sockets each. He build a small grow box, just for two moms, about 4 x 4 x 4. He painted the inside with flat white paint. He used ( 24 watt CFL daylight spectrum bulbs, from Walmart. He kept the total cost under $ 50, by picking up left over wood scraps from construction sites - after he got off work. They are always throwing away, half a sheet of plywood or a few short 2 x 4's. The paint was a freebie also.
.
If you keep your lights on for 18 hours a day. You can keep your mom's short, shout & healthy. They will provide many cuttings if done right. I've known of two growers that keep a favorite mom plant alive for two years plus.
.
Hope this helps...
Keep it Real...Organic.....


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## overfiend (Oct 19, 2008)

just thought i'd add a little to this list i've also used teas i make from seaWEED. being from the ocean state its something i can get free any day of the week. 
i wash the seaweed good before adding it to the tea to remove most of the extra salt . this stuff is full of all kinds of micronutrients i also add a few trashbags full of seaweed to my compost pile


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## swishatwista (Oct 19, 2008)

Sorry, should have clarified, i using a 600w hps for my sog grow, but first i have to grow some moms up from seed, and then im going to transfer the moms and that light fixture out of my main box and move them(the moms and their light) into a smaller box were they will just chill out and regeneration. i just need a light for the mothers that will have good blue spectrum lighting, but are also about 2 ft long. I was thinking some t5 fluros, but if anybody has any knowledge feel free to shed some light on my situation


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## swishatwista (Oct 20, 2008)

Didnt see your reply before i sent my 2nd post, but yea thanks ohso, it helped alot. I think im goin to go with the 2' T5 that has the duel lights in the hood. Thanks for the help and i'm sure ill be back for some tea questions and results


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## Ohsogreen (Oct 21, 2008)

swishatwista said:


> Didnt see your reply before i sent my 2nd post, but yea thanks ohso, it helped alot. I think im goin to go with the 2' T5 that has the duel lights in the hood. Thanks for the help and i'm sure ill be back for some tea questions and results


.
Swishatwista..... T-5's are a real good choice. For their size, they really kick out the light & will be perfect for your keep the mom's alive project.
.
Keep it Real...Organic....


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## Ohsogreen (Oct 21, 2008)

overfiend said:


> just thought i'd add a little to this list i've also used teas i make from seaWEED. being from the ocean state its something i can get free any day of the week.
> i wash the seaweed good before adding it to the tea to remove most of the extra salt . this stuff is full of all kinds of micronutrients i also add a few trashbags full of seaweed to my compost pile


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Overfiend.... You're lucky to have access to such a great amendment & being free makes it even better. Seaweed Rocks ! 
.
Keep it Real...Organic.....


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## swishatwista (Oct 21, 2008)

Hey Ohso, i got my 6500k T5 today, along with my seabird, high N bat guano, molasses, worm castings, and my fox farm OF and light warrior soil mix. Is there anything that you'd add?


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## swishatwista (Oct 21, 2008)

O and also, would my tea clog up my air stone?


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## buffalosoulja (Oct 21, 2008)

swishatwista said:


> O and also, would my tea clog up my air stone?


My air stone has not clogged, it has been running straight for like a month, bubbling up some good tea.


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## Ohsogreen (Oct 22, 2008)

swishatwista said:


> O and also, would my tea clog up my air stone?


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Swishatwista..... 6500k....It's good to be Blue. That Blue Light Spectrum will ensure excellent veg growth.
.
If you remove your air stone from your bubble bucket or jug, before you turn off the air pump & give it a little rinse off, it will last a long time. If you leave it in the bucket, it will not last as long & can clog a little.
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I'm kind of like Buffalosoulja....mine rarely gets turned off, so the pores on mine stay pretty clean.
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Keep it Real....Organic......
.


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## swishatwista (Oct 22, 2008)

O ok, then ill have nothing to worry about. This is kind of off topic but does anybody know if mylar is sold at Home Depot or Lowes? My hydro shop is like a 35 minute drive that im not wantin to make if i dont need to. Or panda paper will work too if its sold at a local hardware store.


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## Ohsogreen (Nov 2, 2008)

swishatwista said:


> O ok, then ill have nothing to worry about. This is kind of off topic but does anybody know if mylar is sold at Home Depot or Lowes? My hydro shop is like a 35 minute drive that im not wantin to make if i dont need to. Or panda paper will work too if its sold at a local hardware store.


.
Swishatwista..... Walmart carries mylar (survival blankets) in the outdoor / camping isle. They are a cheap source of mylar, you can buy a couple without throwing up any red flags. 
.
Sorry, I missed this post. I know it's a little late, but I hope this helps....
.
Keep it Real...Organic.....


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## swishatwista (Nov 5, 2008)

Hey ohso, i have the high N bat guano(10-2-1), seabird guano(10-10-2) wormcastings, molasses, and some STP. This will be my first feeding as my girls will only be 3 weeks old, and im kind of worried about adding too much. I'v heard that that seabird guano is some stronger stuff so i was kind of afraid of burning. With combining the guanos, is there anything that you'd suggest?


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## Ohsogreen (Nov 5, 2008)

swishatwista said:


> Hey ohso, i have the high N bat guano(10-2-1), seabird guano(10-10-2) wormcastings, molasses, and some STP. This will be my first feeding as my girls will only be 3 weeks old, and im kind of worried about adding too much. I'v heard that that seabird guano is some stronger stuff so i was kind of afraid of burning. With combining the guanos, is there anything that you'd suggest?


.
Swishtatwista.... I'd go with the High N Bat Guano for now, instead of the Seabird (it's a little to hot). I'd topdress one teaspoon of High N Bat Guano per plant. I'd also topdress two tablespoons of worm castings per plant. Then mix up a gallon of half strength SPT (one tablespoon per gallon of water). Pour 16 ounces over the the guano/castings in each pot.
.
If you wanted to make a tea - instead, just mix one tablespoon of High N Bat Guano, four tablespoons of worm castings and one tablespoon of SPT into a gallon of water. Give each plant a pint (16 ounces), because they are so young.
.
Low, slow and steady on the feeding will ensure success.
.
Keep it Real...Organic....


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## swishatwista (Nov 6, 2008)

alright man sounds good, would you prefer to topdress it or make a tea? i'm thinkin of just topdressing this first time feeding. My plants are exactly 2 weeks old and about 1-1.3 inches tall. They're still in dixie cups and im planning on transfering as soon as i do my next watering. How large do you think their root system is by now, and do you think that they could be getting restrained by the cups already?


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## Ohsogreen (Nov 6, 2008)

swishatwista said:


> alright man sounds good, would you prefer to topdress it or make a tea? i'm thinkin of just topdressing this first time feeding. My plants are exactly 2 weeks old and about 1-1.3 inches tall. They're still in dixie cups and im planning on transfering as soon as i do my next watering. How large do you think their root system is by now, and do you think that they could be getting restrained by the cups already?


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Swishatwista..... I'd transplant into a bigger pot, then topdress & water with SPT. 
.
Those small dixie cups are already restricting your plants root growth.
.
Keep it Real...Organic...


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## swishatwista (Nov 6, 2008)

Alright ohso thanks for the heads up. When i give them the 16 ounce watering, is the key to flood the soil and then let it dry out? Because iv done that the last several times and it seems to work, but i dont want to stress them. I'm gettin the grow technique down, just gotta get all the details straight


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## Microracer87 (Nov 15, 2008)

Anyone know how to use dried blood?


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## Ohsogreen (Nov 16, 2008)

Microracer87 said:


> Anyone know how to use dried blood?


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Microracer87.... Blood meal is a very soluble (hot) fertilizer. Since, I don't know what the N value is on your product - I'll just say this. Use it at a very low mixing strength and slowly work upwards. If they suggest two tablespoons per gallon, use two teaspoons instead.
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If it does not, suggest a mixing strength per gallon, and instead says - use 1 pound per 100 square feet. Do this - for each gallon of soil in your container (call that one square foot) Then divide the amount they are recommending down to the square footage (per gallon) in your container (pot). 
.
Example: Use 1 pound of blood meal per 100 square feet & your pot's hold one square foot of soil (1 gallon) 
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One pound of Blood Meal is 456 grams - so that would be 4.56 grams per gallon (square foot) of soil. If it said use one pound per 100 square feet.
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I just converted the pound to grams, because it makes doing he math a little easier. 
.
With whatever they suggest, go a little lower - better safe than nute burned. 
.
Hope this helps....
Keep it Real.. Organic....


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## buffalosoulja (Nov 18, 2008)

ohso, I have asked you about this mycorrhazae stuff that i bought and i have been adding to my tea, but i was going to make some to for some trees that i have, and read that i am supposed to put the material in holes around the plant. Is my mycorrahzae, working right if i bubble it in my tea? Should i punch holes in my soil and add some? Preciate the info.


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## Seamaiden (Nov 18, 2008)

I would seriously discourage people from making teas out of animal product meals. Because they STINK! Bone meal is the worst. Other than that, though, they're great. My bone meal is something like 6-0-0, if I recollect.

Soulja, I have been using the leftovers from my teas on my trees (Sequoia sempervirens spp. and incense cedar) and it's greatly benefited them and the surrounding soil. I did not bother making any holes to put the mycorrhizae into, though. I would think putting a few holes will just get it closer to their roots that much more quickly. As long as your tea smells no worse than brewing beer (which I happen to think smells pretty groovy) you're good to go.


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## buffalosoulja (Nov 18, 2008)

thanks seamaiden, i always have my air pump on so my tea never sours (at least not yet). Before i got my pump my tea used to sour quicjly and it smells so bad. I use my leftovers for my trees to, i was just gonna make a mix of wate and the mycorrhizae and noticed what it said.


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## swishatwista (Nov 22, 2008)

hey ohso, iv been bubbling my mix of bat guano, molasses, worm castings, and SPT. It got down to around 20' F last night and the mix got kind of slushy. This morning i brought it inside and added a cup of hot chlorine free water, and that unfroze any of it. My worm castings were not deluting too well so i was stirring it up every 30 mins, but its still in small clumps. Is that because of the cold or because it's only been 14 hours since i mixed it? Thanks ohso


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## Ohsogreen (Nov 23, 2008)

swishatwista said:


> hey ohso, iv been bubbling my mix of bat guano, molasses, worm castings, and SPT. It got down to around 20' F last night and the mix got kind of slushy. This morning i brought it inside and added a cup of hot chlorine free water, and that unfroze any of it. My worm castings were not deluting too well so i was stirring it up every 30 mins, but its still in small clumps. Is that because of the cold or because it's only been 14 hours since i mixed it? Thanks ohso


.
Swishatwista... That level of coldness, has probably killed of the majority of your microlife in your bucket. I'd add just a little more SPT, and keep the temp of the water above 50 degrees - under that, microlife just slows to almost no activity. 
.
Worm Casting contain dried worm mucus, which helps them retain nutrients when in the soil. This allows them to slowly leach their goodness into the surrounding soil. It also makes them a little tougher to breakdown in a tea. 
.
Let it bubble for two days (48 hours) then use it. You will notice the Worm Castings will be more broken down, but not completey at the two day mark. To be completey broken down, takes from 5 to 7 days.
.
Hope this helps...
Keep it Real...Organic....


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## swishatwista (Nov 23, 2008)

Damn i was affraid that was going to happen. I already added the tea and it looks like it still benefited from the nutes, but i'll add a little more SPT to my watering next week. And the tea didnt have much of an odor so i can keep it indoors. but alright thanks alot ohso


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## Seamaiden (Nov 23, 2008)

buffalosoulja said:


> thanks seamaiden, i always have my air pump on so my tea never sours (at least not yet). Before i got my pump my tea used to sour quicjly and it smells so bad. I use my leftovers for my trees to, i was just gonna make a mix of wate and the mycorrhizae and noticed what it said.


I don't use an air pump, but haven't experienced my teas going bad. The issue is specific to bone and blood meals. And with the bone meal it's such a disappointment. At first it smells a lot like chicharrones. I like chicharrones. But then, as it breaks down the smell changes.


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## buffalosoulja (Nov 23, 2008)

Seamaiden said:


> I don't use an air pump, but haven't experienced my teas going bad. The issue is specific to bone and blood meals. And with the bone meal it's such a disappointment. At first it smells a lot like chicharrones. I like chicharrones. But then, as it breaks down the smell changes.


I do not use blood or bone meal, i use diff types of guano, casting and molasses. I like chicharrones too. The smell of my sour tea is gagable. Makes your eyes water. Do you now how long water and molasses stays good?


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## Ohsogreen (Nov 23, 2008)

buffalosoulja said:


> I do not use blood or bone meal, i use diff types of guano, casting and molasses. I like chicharrones too. The smell of my sour tea is gagable. Makes your eyes water. Do you now how long water and molasses stays good?


.
Buffalosoulja... If you keep the water / molasses mix bubbling - it will stay fresh and get even more soluble (easily absorbed). If you cut the air off to it, and don't refrigerate it - it will start to sour (turn aneorbic) within a few hours - it will be completely sour in 48 hours.
.
If you refrigerate it, it will stay good for a week (7 days), then start to turn.
.
I just leave mine bubbling, until use. I also have learned from experience, it's better to make smaller batches - rather than really big ones.
.
Hope this helps...
Keep it Real...Organic......


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## Ohsogreen (Nov 26, 2008)

Christmas...is coming..... save your dough and bubble your own (ferts)...... then you can buy yourself something extra nice for Christmas....  with the money you did not spend.
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Keep it Real....Organic...


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## swishatwista (Nov 28, 2008)

true that. But for me my christmas is comin a little late but twice as good. All my presents are gonna be wrapped in shinny delicious paper. I always prefer quality or quantity of presents. And then i got some mr. Herer and g13, haze style for a happy easter. As long as the man doesn't come around my way, the follow is going to be a good year..just spittin that out there, everybody have a some good holidays


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## Ohsogreen (Nov 30, 2008)

Yes.... I find 1/4's make nice stocking stuffers....... and ensure all the left overs get eaten up.....


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## doggod (Dec 3, 2008)

if it smells bad then it is.

I would never put something on my plants that smells bad. bad smell means bad bacteria. someone is going to get very sick from aminal byproducts in your plants. if this was any good there would not be any nutrient companies around. you have seen the reports of botulism in our food supply, where do you all think that came from? animal shit!

my tea smells like fresh organic soil, and is full of life.


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## LittleGirls (Dec 4, 2008)

Ohso- What do you think about adding greensand/rockdust into a tea?? Do you have any personal experience with it? Thanks.


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## KaliKitsune (Dec 4, 2008)

"Chemical Ferts are too soluble, they are absorbed quickly, but also leach out quickly."

This I must disagree with, for only one reason. There's no real difference between chemical ferts and organic ferts, plain and simple nitrogen is nitrogen. Potassium is potassium. Phosphorous is phosphorous. Nitrogen derived from organic sources like urine is the exact same as nitrogen chemically derived from ammonia (All you're doing is knocking off the 4 hydrogen atoms, nothing else sticks after distillation and dilution.)

People say organic smokes better than chemcal - I believe that to be factually incorrect. Organic and chemical can produce the same smoke smoothness and rich taste, the major diffeence is that organic tends to be WEAKER in concentration of nutes than chemical, so as Organic says the plant overloads with nutes it can't POSSIBLY use. These create a harsher smoke because they won't leach out of the plant and soil any faster than the plant can actually removes excesses to begin with, whereas the weaker concentration found in organic will leach out quicker simply because there's less of the nutrients present to begin with.

And that's the chemistry lesson for the day.


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## Ohsogreen (Dec 4, 2008)

KaliKitsune said:


> "Chemical Ferts are too soluble, they are absorbed quickly, but also leach out quickly."
> 
> And that's the chemistry lesson for the day.


.
KaliKitsune.... I agree NPK is NPK, organic or inorganic. I agree it is much easier to toxify a plant with chem nutes. 
.
However, I disagree with the statment chem nutes can be leached out quicker. 
.
When plants are overfed, the NPK (regardless of source) displaces water in the plant tissues. 
.
When this happens, the chemical bonds of the NPK exceed the chemical bond strength of the water you are attempting to flush with. The weakest bond is alwasy broken first - & the strongest bond last.
.
It is true that "Osmosis" states components in higher concentrations will desipate over time (time being the key factor) in a medium (liquid or otherwise) 
.
Osmosis never stops occurring in any fluid exchange - True.
.
The strongest bonds are the last to be broken - True.
.
Chemical ferts in High Concentrations (locked in plant tissues) because of the greater number of chemical bonds, will be the last to break or disapate. Water only has two chemcial bonds - thus H20. NPK is much more complex.
.
*That is the chemcial lesson for the day.* 
.
Plus, it's not a matter of chemical vs organics - the most well tended (not overwatered / overfed) plant - will always smoke more smoothly. 
.
Because of the natures of the two types of NPK - Organic does tend to smoke more smoothly, more often - since it's a little harder to toxify the plant with Organics. Common Sense really.
.
This has been Ohsogreen's opinion - some will agree, others will not Oh..well.
.
Keep it Real Organic - cause Closer to Nature- Closer to Right.....
.


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## SimpleSimon (Dec 4, 2008)

KaliKitsune said:


> "Chemical Ferts are too soluble, they are absorbed quickly, but also leach out quickly."
> 
> This I must disagree with, for only one reason. There's no real difference between chemical ferts and organic ferts, plain and simple nitrogen is nitrogen. Potassium is potassium. Phosphorous is phosphorous. Nitrogen derived from organic sources like urine is the exact same as nitrogen chemically derived from ammonia (All you're doing is knocking off the 4 hydrogen atoms, nothing else sticks after distillation and dilution.)
> 
> ...



I disagree with this statement. One thing i think needs to be pointed out. The medium. To try and explain the workings of pot plants like you would a machine, i think, is not acurate. You are growing a living organism. That grows, develops, and matures, out of the medium that you grow it in. Also, when you say that "Organic" is the same as "chem", are you talking about the actual npk? OR are you talking about the method of "Organics" Because as you surly know, most of us "Organics" belive in building the medium in order to build the plant. Now usually chemically fertilized plants live in soil that is next to stagnent. Sure there is everything the plant needs. But its already in a form the plant uses, its not natural. Organic soil complete with all of its micro bacteria create a natural enviroment that the plant naturally responds to. That being said. No matter what the reason is for why organic tastes better, it just does! And it isn't weeker either. The strongest bud i ever smoked was organic. And after i grew organic once, i never went back. Chemical fertilizers work, but they don't build your soil. And you are what you eat, your eating the plant, the plant is eating the soil.

And that is your metaphysical lesson for the day


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## swishatwista (Dec 5, 2008)

Yea im gonna have to agree with Simple, there's a reason why i have a certain ratio of two different types of organic soil. Then you add the different nutes and tonics based on the content of your soil mixture. But hey Ohso i was wanting to put some liquid rooting concentrate into my soil in a small area around a freshly planted seedling, because im wanting to provide the best enviroment and nutrient supply possible. Is there anything else that can be done to benefit my plant? Im trying to get the most vigor out of the first 2 weeks of initial growth, them being autoflowers


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## Ohsogreen (Dec 5, 2008)

LittleGirls said:


> Ohso- What do you think about adding greensand/rockdust into a tea?? Do you have any personal experience with it? Thanks.


.
LittleGirls.... Yes..I'm experienced in that department. You can add micronized greensand / rockdust to teas for immediate results. Just start low, since the micronized ones are readily absorbed and do cause a shift in pH.
.
Now with traditional greensand / rockdust, natural or pelletized form - the release is very slow (takes months). They are good to mix into soil, to improve it, but don't help much in a tea. The don't really break down well in water - so topdressing them or mixing them directly into the soil is best.
.
Hope this helps...
Keep it Real...Organic..


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## Ohsogreen (Dec 5, 2008)

KaliKitSune... I've been growing for 30 years.... I've grown chem only, hydro chem only, chem soil, chem soilless - then 10 years ago - I stared growing only in Soil - only Organic. It's not just my opinion that it smokes better and has great kick....
.
All my hydro growing buddies, are quick to want to fire up my all organic bud. Now, when it comes to strength. That's all genetics - you can not fertilize ditch weed to AK-47 quality. That's just what the Big Fert Companies want you to believe - it's total BS.
.
The World is not Flat & Organic Grown Buds are not weaker......
.
Keep it Real....Organic.....


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## barrgemike (Dec 5, 2008)

Ohsogreen said:


> Hope this helps...someone....


Helped me thank man.


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## ESStlyes (Dec 10, 2008)

Organic in the soil is the best in my opinion. Thats all I will touch or smoke. I quit smoking cigarettes a couple years ago and since then I noticed something about the herb I was smoking. First off I'll say I have a friend that gets me organic indoor soil grown Cough. Da best in my county. I have another friend that can get me a huge variety of humbolt outdoor/indoor (total chem plants). One time after only smokeing organic for a month (~1yr after I quite ciggs) I ran out of organic and smoked humbolt for a week. Well you know that metallic brassy felling you get in your throat from cigarettes? Well I had not had that since I quit smoking Kamel Reds. until I smoked the un-organically grown herb. I only smoke organic. On a side note I notice when the growers switch from using vermiculite/perilite to coconut husks by taste.


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## LittleGirls (Dec 10, 2008)

Thanks again.


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## Ohsogreen (Dec 11, 2008)

swishatwista said:


> Yea im gonna have to agree with Simple, there's a reason why i have a certain ratio of two different types of organic soil. Then you add the different nutes and tonics based on the content of your soil mixture. But hey Ohso i was wanting to put some liquid rooting concentrate into my soil in a small area around a freshly planted seedling, because im wanting to provide the best enviroment and nutrient supply possible. Is there anything else that can be done to benefit my plant? Im trying to get the most vigor out of the first 2 weeks of initial growth, them being autoflowers


.
Swishatwista... Sorry, I missed your post. I'm must have been really stoned on my great tasting all organic buds.....  
.
Rooting concentrates are just that - a concentrated form of a hormone, that mimics a plants own natural hormones - that promote rooting. If used as per the label, in very small amounts - you get improved results - if used in doses above what is recommended - it works against you, stressing the plant (temporarily) and slowing growth.
.
Hope this helps...
Keep it Real...Organic...


----------



## ghostsamurai25 (Dec 12, 2008)

Ohsogreen said:


> OK, you've been reading the Organic Threads and have decided to make up some Organic Tea for your plants.
> .
> How do you do it - Here's how: There are two ways
> 
> ...


 that mix, is it all combined or used sepertately? so you would have a gallon of each type of manure?


----------



## Ohsogreen (Dec 12, 2008)

ghostsamurai25 said:


> that mix, is it all combined or used sepertately? so you would have a gallon of each type of manure?


.
GhostSamurai....... The manures listed are just examples of the different things you can use to make your own fertilizer tea. Each manure has it's own NPK value. So, if you combine things - Add the NPK value of each thing you add. 
.
I generally use only one manure at a time when making fertilizer tea. 
.
You can always throw in worm castings with no worries. The NPK value of worm castings is low around 1-0-0. Their real value lies in the good trace minerals, bacteria and fungi present in them - which they will add to your tea.
. 
The NPK values of each manure is listed a few post below the one you quoted to help with the math.
.
Hope this helps...
Keep it Real...Organic....
.


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## SimpleSimon (Dec 13, 2008)

Ohsogreen said:


> .
> 
> From what I've been reading recently on Vaporizers, I believe I'm going to pick one up. By not burning the plant tissue, you release more of the THC and allot, I mean allot less cancer causing substances. That's a plus, because I like to smoke a cigar, once & a while. Giving up half the smoke, would probably be good in the long run.
> 
> ...


Hey Ohso, did you pick up that vaporizer? I just used a home made one that my buddy made. It was pretty neat. Very little smoke, very good high. I was a little suprised the hits were smaller then regular pipe hits, but the intensity was the same. It kind of reminded me of smoking oil when i was in high school. It had the same sort of taste, wasn't harsh like oil though.

This was it crude, but it worked, i think we will make a good one out of a lava lamp and jar. Next stoner craft night.

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=oEiJaHlUpyE


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## Ohsogreen (Dec 13, 2008)

SimpleSimon said:


> Hey Ohso, did you pick up that vaporizer? I just used a home made one that my buddy made. It was pretty neat. Very little smoke, very good high. I was a little suprised the hits were smaller then regular pipe hits, but the intensity was the same. It kind of reminded me of smoking oil when i was in high school. It had the same sort of taste, wasn't harsh like oil though.
> 
> This was it crude, but it worked, i think we will make a good one out of a lava lamp and jar. Next stoner craft night.
> 
> http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=oEiJaHlUpyE


.
SimpleSimon..... I do have a vap now. My wife loves it, I'm adjusting. I'm still hitting my ole' Bong... more often, than vapping.... Some habits die hard... LOL....


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## iPlatypus (Dec 13, 2008)

I found the Bunny Poop suggestion to be interesting. I have a Russian Dwarf rabbit and I'm thinking that this should hold true for all rabbits, right? I've never seen rabbit poop fertilizer anywhere before.


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## Ohsogreen (Dec 13, 2008)

iPlatypus said:


> I found the Bunny Poop suggestion to be interesting. I have a Russian Dwarf rabbit and I'm thinking that this should hold true for all rabbits, right? I've never seen rabbit poop fertilizer anywhere before.


.
iPlatypus.... Yes, the manure from any rabbit will work. Since, I'm sure you feed your pet good quality feed - the end results will be good.
.
I like bunny poop so much as a fertlizer... I did a seperate thread on just it & one on my top three favorites.... here are the links....
.
https://www.rollitup.org/organics/93884-bunny-poop-scoop.html
.
https://www.rollitup.org/organics/85674-three-amazing-shits.html
.
Hope this helps...
Keep it Real...Organic...


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## Xare (Dec 14, 2008)

I did my first Organic grow in 08

Holes prepped with: Bloodmeal, Bonemeal, Kelpmeal and Guano. 

I went kinda weak on the mix for my first time, so much that late in veg I was seeing a bit of yellowing in the lower leaf.

So I fed with a strong high N Guano and molasses Tea to fix that.

Then mid flower I used a high P guano Tea. 

Results were very nice 

Plants were taller then me and pretty bushy. Iam using Organic again for sure, but iam gonna start with a hotter mix. 


I made the Tea in a 5 gallon bucket and used an airstone to bubble over night. 

I found an easy way to use the molasses is to mix it in a cup of hot water and add that to the big bucket. That way your not trying to mix molasses into cold water. It would tend to stick to the bottom as a clump.

Then you just measure out a bit of guano, fill the bucket with water and let it bubble overnight.


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## bluballs (Dec 14, 2008)

Can I use my own poo? LOL I am laughing right now. Should I try and let you know how it goes?


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## kaydub (Dec 18, 2008)

Ohsogreen, you gave the following recipe for a veg tea:

two gallons of unchlorinated water & add :

(2) Level teaspoons of High N Bat Guano
(1) Level cup of Worm Castings
(1) ounce of molasses
(2) ounces of SPT

I'm letting my water dechlorinate and then I'll brew up a batch.

Do you have a tea recipe for flowering? Do you keep feeding molasses, or is the N too high?

I'm starting a new grow - all organic S.O.G. I wood be happy to hear any suggestions. Link to my journal is in my sig.

Thanks!


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## Ohsogreen (Dec 19, 2008)

kaydub said:


> Ohsogreen, you gave the following recipe for a veg tea:
> 
> two gallons of unchlorinated water & add :
> 
> ...


.
Kaydub.... A simple tea formula for flowering is :
.
two gallons of unchlorinated water & add :

(2) Level teaspoons of High P Bat Guano
(1) Level cup of Worm Castings
(1/2) ounce of molasses
(1) ounce of SPT

After you bubble your tea with this mix, give each plant only one quart (per week max) or two quarts if you are feeding every other week.
.
It is OK to keep feeding the molasses at 1/2 ounce to one gallon of water; that is not too much Nitrogen. Just enough to keep Mary happy as she finishes.
.
Keep it Real...Organic...


----------



## kaydub (Dec 19, 2008)

Cool, thanks! 

So if I start out with Foxfarm soil and these two teas, is there anything else I need to get started growing organic? Do I need to worry about soil amendments, top dressing, etc, or is this enough to get me going?

Sorry if I'm asking you to repeat yourself, there are just so many threads, so many posts that it's hard for me to get a handle on it all - information overload.

Thanks again for all your help.


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## Ohsogreen (Dec 22, 2008)

kaydub said:


> Cool, thanks!
> 
> So if I start out with Foxfarm soil and these two teas, is there anything else I need to get started growing organic? Do I need to worry about soil amendments, top dressing, etc, or is this enough to get me going?
> 
> ...


.
Kaydub.... Foxfarm soil is real good quality, but a bit hot (nute wise). I'd cut it with some spaghum peat moss, 50 / 50.
.
Then don't feed Mary any fert teas until the end of week four of veg growth.
.
You can still make the teas - just leave out the guanos until after week four - since Ocean Forest soil is full of nutes already. Once they get used down a bit, the teas will keep Mary healthy / happy.
.
The only other thing I would pick up, some epsom salt. Any drug store has epsom salt and so does walmart. Then later, after preflowering - adding a teaspoon to your tea - every other time you make it - will prevent mag deficiency.
.
Hope this helps...
Keep it Real...Organic...


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## kaydub (Dec 22, 2008)

Excellent, thanks for the info!


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## Hayduke (Dec 22, 2008)

For the epsom salts, are you using 1 t/gal or per 2 gallon batch of tea?
Thanks!


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## ghostsamurai25 (Dec 23, 2008)

Hi, 
I have a problem with my tea smelling realy foul like shit almost after leaving it out for two to three days at room temp. What is the shelf life of home made tea, and how should I store it.
I use home made worm casting and seabird guano and a little sugar for the microbes.
At this point im ready to give up on the tea thing if it cant be stored!
Thanks


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## buffalosoulja (Dec 23, 2008)

If you have an air pump supplying your tea with oxygen, then it should not go bad. If you are doing the hand mixing (shaking/stirring), then the shelf life is like two to three days. Never put that foul smelling stuff on your girls. Invest in an airpump, tea smells and looks better and last longer.


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## Hayduke (Dec 23, 2008)

My local shop brews a worm casting and Alaskan hume oil tea. They give out free gallons on Wed and Sat. They say it should be cut into 4 or more gallons. I asked if it was good as long as I bubbled it and they said the live bacteria and fungi are best used within the day and to use any leftover on yard plants. But I don't see why if it was bubbled it wouldn't be good for a few days. I can only use 3 qts of it at a time if the stars all align and the whole garden is ready for water. It would be good to know it would be good for a couple of days. Would adding water and or molasses do anything for this mix in terms of extending shelf life?


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## Titan4jah (Dec 23, 2008)

this thread should be stickyed


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## ghostsamurai25 (Dec 24, 2008)

Adding molases seems to make it worst. It puts the microbes in overdrive making them eat more then secreting waste that seems to be what makes the tea go rancid quicker than brewing with out sugars. I found that with the air pump it does stay fresher, but isnt very convenient. Why is it that we can by worm oil to make worm tea from stores and that stay long on the shelf?
Quick caution, sea bird guano used incorectly will burn your plants, I over did mine lastnite to wake up to yellowing leaves that will be dead by the time i get home 
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Years to all


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## Hayduke (Dec 24, 2008)

ghostsamurai25 said:


> Adding molases seems to make it worst. It puts the microbes in overdrive making them eat more then secreting waste that seems to be what makes the tea go rancid quicker than brewing with out sugars. I found that with the air pump it does stay fresher, but isnt very convenient. Why is it that we can by worm oil to make worm tea from stores and that stay long on the shelf?
> Quick caution, sea bird guano used incorectly will burn your plants, I over did mine lastnite to wake up to yellowing leaves that will be dead by the time i get home
> Merry Christmas and a Happy New Years to all


Thanks for the reply. I stopped adding molasses when I use SPT (use with water only) because if I aerated it to mix and stabilize pH, the pH seems to continue to drop and is very resistant to try to increase it. I now use ag lime mixed with my FFOF/perlite to keep the soil from becoming acidic. Don't know if what I am seeing is just me...


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## Sara the Poet in my Heart (Jan 5, 2009)

*Any advantage of Tea?* 
permalink
Hey OHSOGREEN,

So do you think there is any advantage to making your own tea as opposed to just using the pre-made organic Grow It Green and Flower Power in conjunction with the Super Plant Tonic made by Blue Mountain Organics.
(I must add that these are fantastic products available at a can't beat it price!!!, having used them in a veggie and herb garden.)
Also, do you personally still use molasses when using either these products or t


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## Ohsogreen (Jan 6, 2009)

Sara the Poet in my Heart said:


> *Any advantage of Tea?*
> permalink
> Hey OHSOGREEN,
> 
> ...


.
Sara the Poet in my Heart..... The short anwser - No. 
.
I've always been a DIY (Do it yourself) guy and just like making teas. I agree, the cost of the BMO stuff is very reasonable. So for those who do not have the space or the time to make their own, the BMO stuff is a good choice. 
.
Since tea making takes time and the other only takes money - it's really just a personal choice. No advantage - one over the other.
.
Both will get the job done with good results.
.
I do mix a small amount of molasses (one ounce) to 2 & 1/2 gallons of unchlorinated water - add two ounces of SPT and let it bubble. After a couple of days - I use this as a maintenance tea, when I water my girls.
.
I like to feed (fertilize) one week, then use only water (plus mild tonics) the next - in constant rotation. This helps keep the micro-beastie (good bacteria & myco fungi) population up and avoids the two biggest problems - Overwatering & Overfeeding.
.
Hope this helps...
Keep it Real...Organic..


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## Sara the Poet in my Heart (Jan 6, 2009)

Thanks for the info...Oh...do you use the foliar spray?


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## kaydub (Jan 7, 2009)

Ohsogreen, I'm doing an organic SOG grow (link in sig). I've brewed a couple of batches of tea per your instructions, but something is peculiar: the teas don't seem to be "alive". There is no smell other than a faint whiff of molasses, no scum, no bubbles, just brown liquid that doesn't seem to change over the three days of bubbling.

two gallons of unchlorinated water & add :

(2) Level teaspoons of High N Bat Guano
(1) Level cup of Worm Castings
(1) ounce of molasses
(2) ounces of SPT

Is something killing my microbeasties, or maybe I have a bad bottle of SPT?

I'm dechlorinating the water with Amquel, a fish tank dechlorinator, because my local water is treated with chloramine.

Maybe I'll try bottled water for my next tea?

Or maybe this is normal?


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## SimpleSimon (Jan 7, 2009)

kaydub said:


> Ohsogreen, I'm doing an organic SOG grow (link in sig). I've brewed a couple of batches of tea per your instructions, but something is peculiar: the teas don't seem to be "alive". There is no smell other than a faint whiff of molasses, no scum, no bubbles, just brown liquid that doesn't seem to change over the three days of bubbling.
> 
> two gallons of unchlorinated water & add :
> 
> ...


If you just bubble your water for a day, that should be enough to get rid of the chlorine, then you could add your amendments.


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## Hayduke (Jan 7, 2009)

SimpleSimon said:


> If you just bubble your water for a day, that should be enough to get rid of the chlorine, then you could add your amendments.


This is true, but kaydub is trying to remove Chloramine which will not evaporate.


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## Ohsogreen (Jan 7, 2009)

Kaydub.... That *chloramine* is some tough stuff to get rid of. More than likely some of it is still in your water & this stuff is *deadly to micro-beasties*.
.
Your idea to use bottled water, would be an easy way to confirm - the status of your SPT. More than likely it's still alive. 
.
To make sure, pour the contents of your SPT bottle into a clean, empty soda bottle, then back into the SPT bottle a couple of times to add oxygen, the add an ounce of fresh (unchlorinated) water and 1/2 teaspoon of sugar. Leave the cap loose overnight, then tighten it. 8 hours later, loosen it and if pressure is released or you see bubbles - it's still alive & well.
.
Hope this helps...
Keep it Real...Organic....


----------



## Ohsogreen (Jan 7, 2009)

Sara the Poet in my Heart said:


> Thanks for the info...Oh...do you use the foliar spray?


.
Sara the Poet in my Heart .... You are welcome. I have and do use the foliar spray - during veg growth. I do not foliar feed after pre-flowering, since trichromes act like fly paper - holding onto everything that hits them.
.
Some people foliar feed several weeks into flowering. It can be done, provided you rinse your plants off, with plain water at least once a week - to remove an residues.
.
Hope this helps....
Keep it Real....Organic...


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## buffalosoulja (Jan 7, 2009)

Hey ohso, my tea seems to keep attracting gnats, even after i mixed the top soil with diotamacous earth. Could i just add some to the top?


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## bettertoday55 (Jan 7, 2009)

i know this is a beginner question but I am wanting to get started in organic and was wondering was SPT stood for? thanks for this informative post and sorry if my question was answered previously i read the whole forum and finally realized i didn't know what SPT stood for


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## buffalosoulja (Jan 8, 2009)

bettertoday55 said:


> i know this is a beginner question but I am wanting to get started in organic and was wondering was SPT stood for? thanks for this informative post and sorry if my question was answered previously i read the whole forum and finally realized i didn't know what SPT stood for


Super Plant Tonic.


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## SimpleSimon (Jan 8, 2009)

Hayduke said:


> This is true, but kaydub is trying to remove Chloramine which will not evaporate.


This i did not know....


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## Ohsogreen (Jan 8, 2009)

buffalosoulja said:


> Hey ohso, my tea seems to keep attracting gnats, even after i mixed the top soil with diotamacous earth. Could i just add some to the top?


.
Buffalosolja.... Yes, teas smell great to gnats. Get some fly paper and put in your bubbling area. A fan also messes them up - since they are weak flyers. That will help take care of the adults.
.
Yes, you can cover the top of your soil with Diatomacious Earth with no problems. It's good for Mary - contains magnesesium & trace minerals. It even acts as a mild buffer zone for acidic teas. In Japan, many large scale Bonsai Tree producers use it as their primary growing medium (soilless) with good results. 
.
It will turn a light green color later, don't sweat that. It has very irregular surfaces, that hold tiny amounts of water, & fosters some small scale algae growth. It is deadly to the gnats. The small amount of algae on the surface of your soil is no biggy. 
.
Hope this helps....
Keep it Real....Organic....


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## HowardWCampbell (Jan 8, 2009)

kaydub, what are you using to test for cholramines?


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## Ohsogreen (Jan 10, 2009)

HowardWCampbell said:


> kaydub, what are you using to test for cholramines?


.
HowardWCampbell..... That's a good question. I hope someone has a good anwser. It seems this chloramine or chlorimide stuff is becoming very common in city water systems......
.
Chime in if you have the answer.......
.
Keep it Real...Organic.......
.


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## kaydub (Jan 10, 2009)

I haven't tested for chloramine, I just looked up my local BWS online and saw that they use chloramine, but here is a link to some test kits:

http://www.aquariumguys.com/chlorine-test-kits.html

On a positive note, my tea is now funky. I drained off the liquid, added more chloramine neutralizer, and let it sit for half an hour. Then I returned it to the solids, and added more SPT. I came home tonight and there were bubbles on top and the room smelled kind of farty. I started up the bubbler and added a little more SPT to help the good bugs overcome the bad bugs, and with any luck it will be ready to feed to my plants in a day or two. I ordered some BMO flower juice just in case.


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## Laze (Jan 10, 2009)

I read your way of preparing the tea, but i also have mine... dont know if its right way.  I get 1 gallon of unchlorinated water, I take a part of it and boil it and in the boiled water i put the stuff (potassium rich bananas, fish inside parts - gutz taken from my local fisherman) and i let it stay for a day or two. After that i delute it with the rest of the water and i get 1 gallon of STP. Am on the right path ... or not??


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## Hayduke (Jan 11, 2009)

Laze said:


> I read your way of preparing the tea, but i also have mine... dont know if its right way.  I get 1 gallon of unchlorinated water, I take a part of it and boil it and in the boiled water i put the stuff (potassium rich bananas, fish inside parts - gutz taken from my local fisherman) and i let it stay for a day or two. After that i delute it with the rest of the water and i get 1 gallon of STP. Am on the right path ... or not??


Boiling would get rid of the chloramine and the chlorine.

You are making banana infused fish stock.

I am totally guessing here, I would think that the boiling the fish parts might kill the good stuff. Not to mention would smell like holy hell after 2 days unless refrigerated.
Not sure if any consideration is given to the bio accumulation of poisons and heavy metals in the fish guts...depends on species and waters taken from. 

Plus for about 50 cents you could add 1-2 T/gal of SPT and be done with it. And your garden will not smell like a brothel the day after payday!


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## kaydub (Jan 11, 2009)

http://www.acwd.org/faq.php5?category_id=61#51

"*Will boiling remove chloramines from water? 
* No. Boiling is not an effective way to remove chloramines from water. The only practical methods of removing chloramines from water are using a water conditioner which contains a dechloraminator or by using granular activated carbon. Ask your pet supplier for instructions on how to use these products."


----------



## Hayduke (Jan 11, 2009)

kaydub said:


> http://www.acwd.org/faq.php5?category_id=61#51
> 
> "*Will boiling remove chloramines from water?
> * No. Boiling is not an effective way to remove chloramines from water. The only practical methods of removing chloramines from water are using a water conditioner which contains a dechloraminator or by using granular activated carbon. Ask your pet supplier for instructions on how to use these products."


Oops, sorry about that I am getting old. I read alot about people asking about using aquarium conditioner to remove chlorine/chloramines, but I have yet to see anybody claim they are good/bad.

This is what the brewing community does to remove chlorine (you can boil to remove, but not always practical and precipitates minerals that mess up brew gear) and Chloramine (which you can not boil out!).

From BrewYourOwn's Ask Mr. Wizard:Although many reducing agents can be used to dechlorinate water, the ones that are most accessible to homebrewers are sodium metabisulfite or its cousin, potassium metabisulfite (commonly found in the Campden tablets used by winemakers). These compounds will remove chlorine from both sodium hypochlorite (bleach) and chloramine treated waters. The reaction converts chlorine into chloride and the sulfite is converted to sulfate. Chloride has no affect on aroma, is found in most water and is added by many brewers in the form of calcium chloride. Likewise, sulfate is a normal constituent of water and is added in the form of calcium sulfate by brewers. When this reaction occurs with chloramines, there are also ammonium ions released into the water. Again, this is no big deal because ammonium ions are found in a brewers mash and come from the malt. Keep in mind, we are talking about very low concentrations of all of these reaction products due to the low concentrations of chlorine and metabisulfite involved in the reaction.

Thanks for catching my screw up Kaydub


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## Ohsogreen (Jan 11, 2009)

Laze said:


> I read your way of preparing the tea, but i also have mine... dont know if its right way.  I get 1 gallon of unchlorinated water, I take a part of it and boil it and in the boiled water i put the stuff (potassium rich bananas, fish inside parts - gutz taken from my local fisherman) and i let it stay for a day or two. After that i delute it with the rest of the water and i get 1 gallon of STP. Am on the right path ... or not??


.
Laze.... Composting or breaking down fish parts by use of enzymes is the best way to bring out all the goodness they have to offer. 
.
Your tea, will have some NPK, but if not oxygenated (bubbled) it will be full of anerobic bacteria (some of which are not good for Mary). Adding the SPT to it, will help convert it, but solids take time (3 to 7 days) & need the oxygen, as well, to get the job done promptly & properly.
.
Hope this helps....
Keep it Real....Organic....


----------



## kaydub (Jan 11, 2009)

Hayduke said:


> Oops, sorry about that I am getting old. I read alot about people asking about using aquarium conditioner to remove chlorine/chloramines, but I have yet to see anybody claim they are good/bad.
> 
> This is what the brewing community does to remove chlorine (you can boil to remove, but not always practical and precipitates minerals that mess up brew gear) and Chloramine (which you can not boil out!).
> 
> ...


No worries bro. I will try the brew stuff - I used to brew my own beer, and there is a good brew store nearby. I would feel better using stuff that was meant for human consumption, although it doesn't feel very organic, adding more chemicals to neutralize other chemicals. But hey, everything is chemicals, right?

This chloramine thing kind of annoys me, government adding noxious chemicals to our water that basically make true organic gardening impossible. Oh well.


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## kaydub (Jan 11, 2009)

Thanks for the great advice you gave me earlier in this thread. 

I have now fed my babies one pot of your veg tea, and one pot of flowering tea, and they are the happiest plants I have grown so far - check out my grow in my sig.

But the proof is in the budding! If I don't see monster buds in 6 weeks, I will go back to pumping up my plants with poison! Don't let me down!

Just kidding of course. But I think I will have to go to BMO's premixed fertilizers - my wife has just about had it with bubbling pots of shit around the house!


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## closetglow (Jan 11, 2009)

Ohso, How bad do your plants grow area smell after you water them with this tea? I will be growing inside and would prefer my house no to smell like a barn. Thanks for the post great info rep+

CG


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## HowardWCampbell (Jan 12, 2009)

closet, I know you asked ohso, but I'll answer it anyway. The only time my teas stink is if I add fish emulsion. I have added bat, worm, and chicken shit to the tea with no noticeable odor. The tea itself doesn't smell very appetizing, but I don't smell it at all while it's brewing or after I water. All of my shit is from bmo if it matters.


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## Chron (Jan 12, 2009)

Has anyone ever seen the secret is in the soil on youtube? John Evans (whom thusfar is the only person with something to show) is using living alaska humisoil as part of his ingredients. He is growing 37 lb cabbages and brussel sprouts the size of apples. I am trying to find out where I can get alaska humisoil. Long story short, here is what I know about the recipe for organic compost tea:


Worm casting compost, Alphalpha cubes, molasses bubbler and a bucket. Some people are using fish emulsion as well. The mixture is 5 to 1 when watering (although they say when you add water to compost tea it is not diluting it but spreading it out over a wider area.

I dont have any information about the ph levels though. If someone has any info on whether or not compost tea raises or lowers your ph levels it would be great if you could post something


----------



## SimpleSimon (Jan 12, 2009)

My water is a little under 7 before tea, and is the same after.


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## Ohsogreen (Jan 12, 2009)

Hello all.... About teas.... Yes, they do smell, but when properly made - modest amounts of manure (bat guano, or bunny poop, chicken manure & or worm castings), a few gallons of unchlorianted water, an ounce or two of molasses and a good air pump - they mellow over the course of a couple of days. I do mine in the garage (winter) or on the back porch (summer) - just to keep the peace. My wife is pretty easy going & I want to keep it that way... LOL .... I do my growing off the plantation - Grow-illa style so offensive odors - not at my house.
.
The BMO stuff - Grow it Green, Flower Power ... etc is pretty mellow. Their Super Plant Tonic - well, it Stinks - but since it gets such great results - I don't sweat it. Your tea, their ferts - whatever you use - just use small amounts & odor is not really an issue. Overwatered soil - with organic nutes - is a green cloud waiting to happen. So just go low, slow & steady on the feeding / watering and your grow area does not have to stink.
.
About teas & pH - ingredients make the difference. Fish emulsions, High N Bat Guano, Composted - Chicken, Cow or Rabbit Manure - all drive tea pH down. 
.
Molasses will raise pH, so will High P Bat Guano, Dolimite Lime, & Egg Shells. The reason molasses will push pH up is - it feeds bacteria - the bacteria multiply and as they bioconvert things (eat & poop them out) they excrete a form of plauqe - which raises pH ( 9 out of 10 times ). Mixing things that drive pH down, with things that push it up - can bring balance to your mix.
.
The whole pH thing is not such an issue with soil. Wheter your tea is a 5 or a 7 is really no big deal. The micro-life in your soil - will eventually level it out. That is part of the reason - I feed one week, the water only the next in constant rotation. It allows things in the soil to get used up a bit, before more are applied. Plus it gives the micro-beasties (good bacteria & mcyo fungi) I add / maintain - using SPT on my water only week - a chance to do their thing - level out pH - kill off bad bacteria - bioconvert insoluble (locked up) NPK and help feed Mary all their goodness.
.
I'm not saying don't check your soil pH. You should, when you first mix it. When you are about to transplant small seedlings into it and after a few feedings. Make small adjustments as necessary.
.
If after a few feedings your soil is sitting in the 6.8 to 7.2 range - next feeding using an slightly more acidic tea. If your soil is sitting in the 5.8 to 6.2 range - next feeding use a slightly more alkaline tea. Small adjustments work best - if your soil is between 6.2 and 6.8 - just let it be. You have a good balance - nothing is being locked out (nute wise) - and as long as you feed reasonably - it will stay that way.
.
OK, I hope this helps.....
Keep it Real....Organic.....


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## Ohsogreen (Jan 12, 2009)

Chron said:


> where can I get alaska humisoil.


.
Chron..... I've bought it, I've used it & it is good. Here is a link to their site. It works about as well as SPT.
.
http://www.alaskahumus.com/more_info.htm
.
Lot's of special microbes in this stuff......
.
Keep it Real.....Organic.......


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## buffalosoulja (Jan 14, 2009)

Hey ohso, I have a question about adding mychorrizae to my tea. I may have asked you this, but I have mychorrizae granules and on the bottle it says to add to the soil via pen size holes with about a half teaspoon per hole. I have been bublling it with my tea, and was wondering if i am getting the full potential of the product. 

Also i noticed little black mushrooms in one my pots. is this bad. 

as always Preciate the advice. Thnks
Buffalosoulja


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## buffalosoulja (Jan 15, 2009)

bumpppppppp


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## Titan4jah (Jan 15, 2009)

hey you guys think if i added some high p bat guano to the bmos flower power in my bucket the resulting tea would be to strong? i was guna just topdress with it but whated to ask if you or anyone has done something like this, im sure there FP has enough as it is im just wanting to see the effects. and am i the only one adding kelp?


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## Ohsogreen (Jan 15, 2009)

buffalosoulja said:


> Hey ohso, I have a question about adding mychorrizae to my tea. I may have asked you this, but I have mychorrizae granules and on the bottle it says to add to the soil via pen size holes with about a half teaspoon per hole. I have been bublling it with my tea, and was wondering if i am getting the full potential of the product.
> 
> Also i noticed little black mushrooms in one my pots. is this bad.
> 
> ...


.
Buffalosoulja.... The granulated myco fungi, do best if added directly to soil. You can take a plastic spoon dig a little trench in you topsoil around your plants, sprinkle some in - then cover it with your soil or worm castings. That type of mcyo fungi will live a short time (a few hours) then fade to black. 
.
Cover the little black mushrooms with a layer (1/2 inch) of cornmeal and moisten with water - next day, remove the cornmeal and 1/8 inch layer of soil in that area - to rid yourself of them. They will not hurt Mary. 
.
You will then have to reinoculate your soil with some myco fungi. The cornmeal will zap them also, several inches down. So, maybe you should kill off the mushrooms first, then inoculate the soil - to prevent wasting your myco's.
.
Hope this helps...
Keep it Real...Organic...


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## Ohsogreen (Jan 15, 2009)

Titan4jah said:


> hey you guys think if i added some high p bat guano to the bmos flower power in my bucket the resulting tea would be to strong? i was guna just topdress with it but whated to ask if you or anyone has done something like this, im sure there FP has enough as it is im just wanting to see the effects. and am i the only one adding kelp?


.
Titan4jah.... The Flower Power is more soluble and will be absorbed quickly. The High P Bat Guano is soluble up to a point, and actually has more P (usually 2x or 3x) the number listed that will break down over time.
.
If your guano has a middle number of 7 and the FP is 8 - that's 15 percent P at one shot. Kinda risking the burn. If your plants are heavy feeders they can take it, if not I'd use one or the other - not both together.
.
& No - you are not the only one who uses kelp. Lots of people in this forum, including myself - love the stuff. I use the Seamagic Brand - I apply it twice during veg growth, once during early flowering. It has every trace mineral Mary needs, which is a good thing.
.
Keep it Real...Organic...


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## buffalosoulja (Jan 16, 2009)

Thanx ohso.


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## Titan4jah (Jan 16, 2009)

heck ya kelp is the best, i apply it a bit more but at a smaller dose. like every third watering about 2 tablespoons to four gallons. Im guna cut back next grow the soil im using for these plants is almost 50% perlite and doesn't hold allot of water.


so about the bat guano, its like 0-15-0, allot of p know, you think just one topdressing at the start of flower and then the rest of the cycle with flower power would be a nice mix, i know for veging ive been topdressing almost every other week with the high n guano bmo hooked me up with. my plants got way n def because i flushe them early in veg when i saw burn, to bad i didn't replenish the nutrient content in the soil because my girls suffered bad.


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## Chron (Jan 16, 2009)

Thanks alot Ohsogreen for posting that link, I'm gonna order me up some next harvest!


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## HowardWCampbell (Jan 17, 2009)

I have used the bmo high p guano along with the flower power, and I don't think I had any burning because of it. The only burning I had in flowering was where I spilled a little tea on a leaf. However, this was my first grow so I have nothing to compare it to. When in doubt, start with a 1/4 dose and work your way up from there.

I'm somewhat off topic here, but I just finished my first ever harvest last week. I used all bmo products once I started flowering. After sampling the end result, I am hooked on bmo. Great stuff, great people, great price. Thanks OSG for spreading the bmo gospel. +rep to you


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## kaydub (Jan 17, 2009)

I have a question about the BMO Flower Power. When I mixed it as directed the ppm was pretty low - around 400 I think.

Is it okay to mix it stronger later in flowering?


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## Titan4jah (Jan 17, 2009)

yah thats why im adding the high p quano, either way its guna be great tasting sugery ganja fer sure, you dont really need as much as most peaple think.


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## Ohsogreen (Jan 17, 2009)

kaydub said:


> I have a question about the BMO Flower Power. When I mixed it as directed the ppm was pretty low - around 400 I think.
> 
> Is it okay to mix it stronger later in flowering?


.
Kaydub..... Yes, you can mix upwards to 1000 ppm up until the last two weeks. Soil is more of a buffer zone. I prefer the 700 - 800 ppm range myself, since organic ferts - never really break completely down - any quicker than a couple of weeks / months - depending on what they are.
.
Hope this helps...
Keep it Real....Organic......


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## SimpleSimon (Jan 18, 2009)

Hey Ohso,

Whats your take on Pot Ash tea. I am in week 4-5 of flowering my G-Spot/Indica. Today i took a good shovel full of Hard Wood ash, out of my fire place and mixed in water. Let sit for two hours and fed to plants. As i understand the K (potash) is totally water soluble and is dissolved immediately.

Any thoughts?


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## Titan4jah (Jan 25, 2009)

so how did that ash treat your girls bro ^^?


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## swishatwista (Jan 25, 2009)

i read that SPT thread, thanks for that info ohso, very knowledgable. I was watchin a dr chronic video and the doc said he always uses seaweed pretty exclusively for all his foliar, rooting, and waterings. It was sittin in the back of my mind until i saw that you(ohso) and others of the OG way used it, i was wondering if you, or anybody, could elaborate on it and how to use it exactly, knowing that i could get it a walmart a couple miles away is always a plus


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## Ohsogreen (Jan 25, 2009)

SimpleSimon said:


> Hey Ohso,
> 
> Whats your take on Pot Ash tea. I am in week 4-5 of flowering my G-Spot/Indica. Today i took a good shovel full of Hard Wood ash, out of my fire place and mixed in water. Let sit for two hours and fed to plants. As i understand the K (potash) is totally water soluble and is dissolved immediately.
> 
> Any thoughts?


.
SimpleSimon.... Hardwood ash is a great source of minerals, but needs to be used in small doses. It's P&K value range from 4-4 up to 9-9 It is very alkaline and will drive pH up, to the extreme, very quickly. 
.
You are correct the K is absorbed very quickly. I'd just go back and check that soil pH - a shovelfull even to 5 gallons of water is quite a dose.
.
Hope this helps...
Keep it Real...Organic...


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## Ohsogreen (Jan 25, 2009)

swishatwista said:


> i read that SPT thread, thanks for that info ohso, very knowledgable. I was watchin a dr chronic video and the doc said he always uses seaweed pretty exclusively for all his foliar, rooting, and waterings. It was sittin in the back of my mind until i saw that you(ohso) and others of the OG way used it, i was wondering if you, or anybody, could elaborate on it and how to use it exactly, knowing that i could get it a walmart a couple miles away is always a plus


.
Swishatwista.... Seaweed (aka-kelp) is a great amendment. I use it during veg growth as a foliar spray. I mix it at 1/2 strength in warm water, the day of use. Let it cool to room temp, then mist the leaves - top & bottom (bottom being the most important). I do this once each week, on veg weeks 3, 5 & 7. Always foliar feed when temps are mild - like prior to lights on or sunrise / sunset. Foliar feeding when conditions are hot, is not as effective.
.
After that, I use it - by watering into the soil, again 1/2 strength (mixed the day of use) on flowering weeks 1, 3, & 5. 
16 ounces per plant - more is not necessary.
.
Some people do use it on seedlings - I don't. I want Mary to spread out her roots looking for water & food in the early stages of growth. Give her too much early on, and she will not spread out her roots.
.
Hope this helps...
Keep it Real...Organic....


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## SimpleSimon (Jan 25, 2009)

So as far as i can tell the tea worked fine. I can't really tell what the effects were. I can say that the plant showed no signs of unhappiness towards it. And is still doing fine. I'll include a pic. I haven't been down there this morning, but when i do, i will check my ph.

I just bought some seaweed extract. I have been watering it in.


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## Titan4jah (Jan 25, 2009)

dude where is everyone getting there kelp.........


are you guys useing AN iggys kelp, somethin at walmart, (neptunes harvest), or what. every where i try to get some its sold out..... i make an order and get everything but the kelp with a credit receipt for it... makes me pissed too cuzz they act like they have it.. no out of stock deal er nothing...


ive been adding the neptunes to my teas every other feeding at about half the stated dose, this works out to be about every 9 days. i start feeding the ladys once they hit about a foot depending on strain. one thing im trying is to hold off on the spt until after my first feeding because if i use it to early it really breaks down my soil(expensive Organic potting mix..........still starting my compost..tear..) and if im going by the idea that supplying to much to early will keep my rootball small then this would not be good. ive also seen it burn them when there young, the soil i use alwready has the fungi herd and plenty of nutes for about a month er so of veg. cant wait tell i have to stop buying the stuff... ripoff to the fullest.


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## StickeeGreens (Jan 25, 2009)

what i cant figure out is how often to fertilize? Say a s.o.g with plants 16'' tall in one gallon containers. How often do i fert. wheshould i start to leach? 7 out of 9 weeks? Thanks, StickeeGreens


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## swishatwista (Jan 26, 2009)

I couldnt find any kelp at walmart but ill just pick some up at a shop whenever. But hey ohso, do you use the spt on your waterings or do you mix it in with your teas? I believe you said on the spt thread that you use it with your watering so your soil doesnt have to use it all at once(the feeding/tea) and doesnt have to work all at once. Which makes sense, but that was a good two weeks ago so im not positive. One last thing, iv been using this Heavy Weight stuff, a pure carbhydrate, for my molasses. I was told they were one in the same, and it seems to be effective in feeding my soil, but its used for "adding size and maturity to flowering plants". Its directions say use it on the 3rd, 5th, and 7th week of flowering? I mean i know its a sugar(carb) but i dont want it to be too hot or something so any input would help, thanks


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## swishatwista (Jan 26, 2009)

Also i kind of want to know whats the deal behind this if anybody has any knowledge on it--- I have my veg box in my room and i notice that i get light headed and some what dizzy/thrown off when im in my room. Does anybody know if thats because of the plants or because of the co2(1/2 gallon of sugar, water, yeast mixture) i have in the box. I'm not sure if the small amounts(i hope) of co2 is getting out of the box, out of my closet, and affecting me? or if the plants are givng off some kind of something. If anybody knows anything about this i'd love to hear from you, cause i think i might move my box into another room, thanks


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## aladdin2685 (Jan 27, 2009)

nice thread


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## swishatwista (Jan 29, 2009)

damn...bump


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## swishatwista (Feb 8, 2009)

if only this thread was active


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## greenearth5 (Feb 8, 2009)

can I make tea out of my veg pot lefas and get a buzz off of them?? or even smoke them and get a buzz?


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## Titan4jah (Feb 8, 2009)

greenearth5 said:


> can I make tea out of my veg pot lefas and get a buzz off of them?? or even smoke them and get a buzz?


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## Ohsogreen (Feb 14, 2009)

BUMP....a dee..... Bump.....a dee BUMP.......
.


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## dirt clean (Feb 14, 2009)

Just read the whole tea thread, nice,

long day. hey just wanna say thanks to ohsogreen for responding all over. I got my super plant tonic, my Bio Bizz OMRI and EK certified grow and bloom, ocean forest and light warrior, my perlite, my dolomite, my hydroguard, my guanos, and some extras.

Ohsogreen did you know that pbp is only organics based? I just found out today on another forum and had to run to the store to buy some OMRI and EK certified ferts. No big deal but I on an organic kick. Besides i got no liver

I also plugged spt on another forum all over their organic section which just opened, probably in response to the success of this one. 

Hey anybody, i am thinking that spt, liquid karma, and dyna grow are the same thing. Is this true.

I am prob only going to use spt thinking they are and the spt looks organic.

Bio bizz has a root thing to use first week like spt I think. 

Bio bizz also has a seafood mix. I mean kelp. It says you can use it for veg alone in fact or you can use half of kelp and half of grow. 

Did y'all know bio bizz was founded in amsterdam. Their feed chart specifies 18 hour schedule and a 12 hour schedule, lol.

that advice about using teas one week and nutes the next is what I am basing my grow on. I cant believe the high N and P some guano has. Cant wait.


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## Jakebakingcake (Feb 16, 2009)

this is an awesome thread . it has answered almost all of my questions about organics.


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## dirt clean (Feb 16, 2009)

dirt clean said:


> Just read the whole tea thread, nice,
> 
> long day. hey just wanna say thanks to ohsogreen for responding all over. I got my super plant tonic, my Bio Bizz OMRI and EK certified grow and bloom, ocean forest and light warrior, my perlite, my dolomite, my hydroguard, my guanos, and some extras.
> 
> ...


 
sorry to pollute the thread with this dweeb post! lol, I thought it was another thread, I had to many oppped up to keep track of. I love to read this. Prob is apparently it takes me a little while to get it right. Read the next post, got a question.


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## dirt clean (Feb 16, 2009)

I bought the Bio Bizz grow and flower. I bought all this assuming I would use this to grow and use teas as a supplement. 

Now I see what teas actually are. Fertilizer! I am not a complete idiot, just biased by all the hydro store bull shit I read. So. . .

I got bat guano, worm castings, and soon mollasses. 

Can I supplement the Bio-Bizz with teas? Or since I got the Bio Bizz should I just go with that and save money next grow? Maybe I can use the teas one week and the Bio Bizz another? Or is this too hot. 

I hope I am not hijacking the thread cuz I love it. I guess it bumps it a little. Lol. 

ty for your time. btw light warrior sure has a lot of good crap in it. Just came to my door.


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## StickeeGreens (Feb 16, 2009)

Honestly i think if you make your teas correctly you shouldn't use anything the following week. Water with the tea at your desired strength three times for a week. That is only if you need it three times in your feeding session. Then water for a week, this will allow the nutes you gave to be broken down and absorbed.



Peace, 
StickeeGreens


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## dirt clean (Feb 16, 2009)

then the next week back to ferts? ty. Once again since I got the Bio Bizz I will attempt to also use teas and ferts. Hoping those numbers will be ok. 

After all Diy organics from guano should be less quickly absorbed than pro made Bio Bizz.

I gotta justify all these nutes after purchase now that I have found this thread and bat guano. 

I saw on tv today they make paper too from elephant crap, lol. I get along well with the green planet now.


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## StickeeGreens (Feb 16, 2009)

pretty much man. unless your using a small pot. through proper planning of transplants and mixing of soil you should only have to use teas for so long. say one gallon containers should need teas almost the entire time. a small s.o.g uses one gallon soil for 4 weeks of veg. then goes to 3 gallons a week or so before flowering with some fresh soil. this should feed four weeks into flowering. then all you need at the beginning is a small top dress of high p bat guano. then week 4 through ? you use teas.


Peace, 
StickeeGreens


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## Ohsogreen (Feb 16, 2009)

dirt clean said:


> Ohsogreen did you know that pbp is only organics based? .


.
Dirt Clean.... Yes, Bontanicare Pure Blend Pro is not 100 percent organic, in the eyes of the OMRI because they do some light processing. 
.
Unfortunately, the OMRI people frown on any mixing of components with any chemical (they consider apple cider vinegar - a chemical - because it is processed). Some of their rules are a bit screwy. 
.
It's one of those cases where all the ingredients are natural - but because they are combined, heated slightly (considered processing) and mixed with some very mild natural acids (apple cider vinegar - which I consider Organic) - they can't get it ORMI listed. Not really fair in my book, but my book doesn't count in this case.
.
Since you already have bottled nutes - the Biobiz - I'd use them this grow. They have a shelf life, the guanos really don't. 
.
If the guanos are kept dry and away from bright light / heat - they will not lose any of their goodness.
.
The SPT is a beneficial bacteria & mcyo fungi / trace mineral tonic, different from Liquid Karma and Hydrozyme. Neither of the last two are alive, the contents of the SPT are. Now, don't get me wrong - I'm not knocking them. I like both of them - the LK is a great source of humic acid, the Hydrozyme is a great source of enzymes. They each have their place.
.
Since, I use compost teas - I have my source of humic acids. I have a bud that uses the hydrozyme in his hydro setup. I usually trade him a bud or two for a couple of ounces. I haven't had to buy a bottle yet, but if I had too, I would. It's good stuff.
.
Since the soil you are using already contains myco fungi, I'd wait until week three of veg growth before using the SPT, to avoid building too large a population of micro-beasties (good bacteria & fungi). 
.
The SPT will help you maintain your micro-beastie popluation throughout your grow & provide nice predigested trace minerals (highly soluble). Thanks to the worlds smallest farmers - micro-beasties.
.
Sounds like you have allot of good stuff - I'm sure your plants are going to like them. Organic Buds are Best.......
.
Keep it Real.......Organic.....
.


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## dirt clean (Feb 16, 2009)

hey thanks alot man, that really got all my questions. I would rep + but the rules say not yet.


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## mpala (Feb 17, 2009)

ohsogreen thanks for all info and everyone else who contributed to this thread. Im planning my first grow and it a guerilla grow. For soil i want to mix fox farm ocean forest, pertilite and some of the original soil. For teas i was thinking on using what u said manure,worm castings, high n bat guano and molasses for vegging. For flowering worm casting, high p bat guano and molasses. I was also thinkin of tryin out maple syrup since its cheap round here in canada and also making the tea with the water from the water change from my aquarium. The tank is fresh water with huge cichlids that poop alot and theres also lots of plants. I have the air bubble thing for the tea too. Tell me what yall think, any advice would be great.


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## swishatwista (Feb 17, 2009)

Hey Ohso i fed my 2 girls their 2nd tea the other day and their leaves are becoming lighter and lighter in color. I'm sure they aren't locked out of any nutrient because i flushed them the week before because i seen similar results to what i'm seein now. My tea consisted of 2 teaspoons of high N bat guano, 1 cup worm castings, 1 oz molasses, 2 oz of STP, and 3 tablespoons of liquid seaweed. My plants are a month and 2 weeks old. I also foliar fed with a real light mix of the seaweed. I was thinking that i fed too doused of a tea, what do you think?


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## swishatwista (Feb 17, 2009)

that was mixed in with 2 gallons of water btw


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## highagain420 (Feb 17, 2009)

can you use cow shit for both stages of growth veg and flowering


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## somebody041 (Feb 18, 2009)

swishatwista said:


> Hey Ohso i fed my 2 girls their 2nd tea the other day and their leaves are becoming lighter and lighter in color. I'm sure they aren't locked out of any nutrient because i flushed them the week before because i seen similar results to what i'm seein now. My tea consisted of 2 teaspoons of high N bat guano, 1 cup worm castings, 1 oz molasses, 2 oz of STP, and 3 tablespoons of liquid seaweed. My plants are a month and 2 weeks old. I also foliar fed with a real light mix of the seaweed. I was thinking that i fed too doused of a tea, what do you think?



i had the same problem with and my tea recipe was the same as yours. i don't know about you but i am using straight ffof in 3/5 gal pots under 1000 watt hps.

i hope someone can help us out


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## Ohsogreen (Feb 18, 2009)

swishatwista said:


> Hey Ohso i fed my 2 girls their 2nd tea the other day and their leaves are becoming lighter and lighter in color. I'm sure they aren't locked out of any nutrient because i flushed them the week before because i seen similar results to what i'm seein now. My tea consisted of 2 teaspoons of high N bat guano, 1 cup worm castings, 1 oz molasses, 2 oz of STP, and 3 tablespoons of liquid seaweed. My plants are a month and 2 weeks old. I also foliar fed with a real light mix of the seaweed. I was thinking that i fed too doused of a tea, what do you think?


.
Swishatwista..... For two gallons of water, you should mix a total of *4 tablespoons* of High N Bat Guano (minimum). Two teaspoons is way too weak for two gallons. With High N Bat Guano the general rule is 2 to 4 tablespoons per gallon of water. It's always best to start with the smaller number and work up. Underfeeding is easier to correct than overfeeding.
.
Hope this helps....
.
.


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## dirt clean (Feb 18, 2009)

SO i guessed right, N definecy? cool.


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## somebody041 (Feb 18, 2009)

Ohsogreen said:


> .
> Swishatwista..... For two gallons of water, you should mix a total of *4 tablespoons* of High N Bat Guano (minimum). Two teaspoons is way too weak for two gallons. With High N Bat Guano the general rule is 2 to 4 tablespoons per gallon of water. It's always best to start with the smaller number and work up. Underfeeding is easier to correct than overfeeding.
> .
> Hope this helps....
> ...



i read that the 3lb recommended using 1 tsp guano per gallon of water when making teas, but that does explain our problems. does the same rule apply for high P guano?


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## Ohsogreen (Feb 18, 2009)

somebody041 said:


> i read that the 3lb recommended using 1 tsp guano per gallon of water when making teas, but that does explain our problems. does the same rule apply for high P guano?


.
Somebody041.... I really believe that's just a type-o on the 3lb's part or whoever reposted their info thread. They are very knowledgeble. 
.
Most guanos both High N & High P - need to be mixed in tablespoons - with plants beyond the seedling stage.
.
Hope this helps...
.


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## somebody041 (Feb 18, 2009)

Ohsogreen said:


> .
> Somebody041.... I really believe that's just a type-o on the 3lb's part or whoever reposted there info thread. They are very knowledgeble.
> .
> Most guanos both High N & High P - need to be mixed in tablespoons - with plants beyond the seedling stage.
> ...


sure does! my first run has been going horribly and i could not figure out why. now i realize that the plants are severely underfed. i am 4 weeks into flowering and have been brewing all of my teas with 1tsp guano per gallon.

thanks for the clarification


EDIT: i was also wondering if anybody had any recommendations on what type of soil to use when using the full BMO line. right now i have FFOF and peat/wormcastings/perlite/dolomite lime but would be willing to pick something else up if needed...


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## swishatwista (Feb 19, 2009)

somebody041, yea realized my plants were N deficient after i really timelined my grow. I was confused because i had watered/flushed several times, and then read that flushing extinsively will drain your soil of its nutrients. i topdressed my plants for a quick fix and wasn't too soluable( i fed 2 days before).
The reason i was confused was because i read on the first page of the thread how it was 1 or 2 tblspoons of quano per gallon of water, but i was going off page 11 where ohso advised using 2 teaspoons of N guano because my plants were young(new plants now), but i realized it was a typo. No worries Ohso those two words also trip me up. but no harm done i only a couple fan leaves that are completely yellow, should i cut them off or will they regain color?


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## dirt clean (Feb 19, 2009)

Ohsogreen said:


> .
> Napalesegrizzly23 I *water weekly* and *fertilize with tea every two weeks,* throughout my grow. Overfertilizing & Overwatering are the two biggest mistakes people make. By doing it this way, I avoid both.
> .
> When you grow Mary, each strain, has a preset gentic potential. No magic fert can push it beyond it's potential. You just want to reach it's potential, not lode up it's tissue with NPK it can't use. That equals - slow growth & chemical tasting buds... Yuck...
> ...


 
ohsogreen,

Got a question man. This concerns your NPK values of "
For veggie growth I try to keep the NPK at around 4-3-4 to 8-4-6, during flowering I switch to an NPK of 1-7-0 to 2-8-6. "


How do you get that using bat guano. I mean I just got my bat guano in the mail. It is sunleaves 10-2-1. For outdoor use (under hids i guess we count as outdoor) it recomends 2-3 tablespoons per gallon of water. How do I get a 4-3-4 or 8-4-6 npk mixing that? And I also would like to comment that is quite a bit higher than BIO BIZZ recomended feeding would give me. Of course theri feed chart gradually increses.

Do you just start at lower than sunleaves recomended amount and build up?

Also I assume Bio Bizz knows what is talking about so thier much lower NPK which they gradually build up is ok?

Cuz i could go either way. Lol, I got guanos and castings and mollasses and I got Bio bizz and pure blend pro laying around. I a little irked at myself but oh well. 

I like the bat teas. How does 10-2-1 (bag of buano) become your NPK? 

thanks, i still reading alot.


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## dirt clean (Feb 19, 2009)

wow I was way off. your numbers and bio bizz actually add up. Bio zizz is 1ml a liter not a gallon. So that is 4 times the NPK on the bottle, almost the exact same you get with your guanos. 

Just the same that is cool you can get your NPK values with the guano as I must assume it is 1 tablsppon then increasing up? ty


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## swishatwista (Feb 22, 2009)

Hey Ohso could you scroll back a couple pages to answer my questions about adding stp when you water or when you feed? iv also heard of people adding the mollasses when they water, what are your takes on that?


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## dirt clean (Feb 22, 2009)

I think I remmeber him saying on another thread perhaps that he fertilizes with his teas and then on regular watering says he uses spt. 

He has 2 threads on SPT. I would read them both.


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## swishatwista (Feb 23, 2009)

Iv read one of them, which is why i was asking cause on the spt thread he uses stp when watering, but on here he says to mix in with tea, so i was just wanting to see how he personally uses the stp. SPT not stp lol im sure he's not chillin in his stp(sublime). But im not tryin to drag the thread out, just get some advice that hopefully helps others too


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## Ohsogreen (Feb 23, 2009)

swishatwista said:


> Iv read one of them, which is why i was asking cause on the spt thread he uses stp when watering, but on here he says to mix in with tea, so i was just wanting to see how he personally uses the stp. SPT not stp lol im sure he's not chillin in his stp(sublime). But im not tryin to drag the thread out, just get some advice that hopefully helps others too


.
Swishatwista.... The cool thing about using SPT is that it's flexible. You can use it with or without ferts, with or without add-in's, enzymes..etc... - provided they are organic (not harsh chems or things containing chlorine). 
.
If you feed your plants weakly / weekly - you can mix your SPT right in with your organic ferts or not. 
.
I'm an outdoor Grow-illa Grower for the most part - so I prefer to feed every two weeks. On the in between week, I use SPT with my plain water. If I notice some leaves looking a bit light green in color, I'll add one ounce of unsulphured molasses to each gallon of my water / spt solution - to hold Mary over to the next offical feeding. The reason I don't mix SPT with my ferts is - I mix them at a higher strength (double) since I only feed half as often (byweekly). If I did mix SPT with a fat dose of fertilizer tea - it would get broken down too quickly & bam - nute burn. I learned the hard way the first grow I did with SPT. It's fine for weekly use - with weaker fert mixes - if feeding byweekly - use it on your in between week - to avoid the burn.......
.
*Other than that - It's pretty hard to use this stuff wrong - wrong would be using a super heavy mixing strength (above double) - mixing it with chlorinated water / harsh chem ferts - using it at full strength with full strength or above ferts, or full strength during flowering. If you don't do any of those things - you have nothing to worry about.*
.
Soil is a great buffer for nutes, pH, micro-life...etc.... To make the best use of any tonic or fert - *always pre-wet your soil* before applying other things. By giving each plant some water first, you ensure your fert or tonic solution doesn't just run out the bottom of your pot or get sucked up by dry ground (for in ground plants). I always pre-wet the soil, then come back 5 minutes later & do the actual fertilizing.
.
I like the feed one week, water only the next - in rotation thing - because it allows Mary to thin down the nutes in the soil. This not only prevents overfeeding, but also increases her root mass. Yes...read on.... 
.
If you water or feed too frequently, Mary will only stretch out her roots a few inches. If the kitchen is only 6 inches away - with plenty of water / fertilizer, why should she stretch out her roots any further.....
.
By making her stretch out a bit, it pays off later. Bigger rootballs, mean she can handle dry spells better, she's better anchored (good if you live in a windy area), and has more root mass to suck up all the goodies that will really count during flowering - cause I don't care about growing a super leafy bush - I want buds..... big, fat frosty ones...
.
SPT will help get that done, wheter you use it weeky or byweekly. With the micro-beasties on your side - more insoluble NPK is going to get broken down - more bad bacteria beat down and those are both good things...
.
Sorry, if I'm rambling - I think I hit the bong a little too hard earlier...... I sure do love the Jillybean.....it's like smoking candy.... & riding on a cloud....
.
Keep it Real....Organic......
.


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## ghostsamurai25 (Feb 24, 2009)

Im over this tea shit. Every time I use organic tea I burn the shit out of my plants.
Starting to consider chemicals, this organic shit has killed my plants for the last year.


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## Ohsogreen (Feb 24, 2009)

ghostsamurai25 said:


> Im over this tea shit. Every time I use organic tea I burn the shit out of my plants.
> Starting to consider chemicals, this organic shit has killed my plants for the last year.


.
Ghostsamurai..... Some strains are light feeders, others are hungry beasts. You have to feed accordingly. 
.
If you were nute burning your plants, why did you not reduce the mixing strength / volume applied ?
.
Chem or organic - overfeeding is toxic to Mary. As a general rule, it's much easier to nute burn plants with chem nutes, since they are highly soluble and tend to have bigger NPK numbers. So, merely going chem will not solve the problem - overfeeding is overfeeding.
.
Low, slow and steady feeding gets the best results. Don't buy into the more is better thing - big fert companies are trying to sell. Plus don't believe anyone who tells you, you can fertilize (chem or organic) a ditch weed strain of Mary into NYC Diesel quality herb. 
.
Sorry to hear your plants died, but organic fertilizers are not the cause.
.


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## swishatwista (Feb 24, 2009)

O ok yea i think mollasses is my answer, i just top dressed with 2 tbsp of 10-10-2(pellets) to tide my plants over until my next tea, watering lightly several times to break up the tablets(looks like rabbit food). But ill know in the future that mollasses will be a good option. I plan on watering my 1.7 month old plants, as well my 10 day old flowering plants with 10-10-2(might be 1) seabird guano, but i'm going to delute my flowering mixture a little bit. (although i remember sombody, i think ohso, saying that it will only increase the area of affect rather than deluting it when mixing in more water. But im still going to try to delute it). I feel ya on that spt causing nute burn when feeding every other week. I was confused because id feed normal doses with spt mixed in and id see burnt tips and then i realized that spt will exhaust itself in a sense and break down the nutes too fast. So i watered my top dress with water/spt mixture to start to adjust to it, and ill continue in the future. I like how you prewet the soil and come back 5 mins later, iv been thinking about doing that.

On my next flowering tea im aiming to get a NPK of 1.5-13-14-tryin and true advice from Soma, but i haven't been able to find a guano with potassium. Is there another source that i can get it from? 

And i have 2 plants, each different strain. One is still pretty green with only small light green coloring, but it does have some rust spots on it and kind of burnt tips, but i cut them off. I think this strain needs less nutes, would i be correct in that assertation?

My other plant is just a couple shades lighter of green then normal, there wasn't many burnt leaves/spots but it was over all a lighter green, would this plant need more nutes then normal? Iv feed both plants the same mixture, so if you could give your diagnosis i'd appreciate it. Its only my first go around but once i have this first grow done i should have a good idea of everything.

But damn i need that candy in my life, im still rolling up pine, but it gets the job done in the mean time, but alright iv been rambling on long enough,but thanks for answering my past and current questions Ohso. OG swish


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## Ohsogreen (Feb 24, 2009)

swishatwista said:


> On my next flowering tea im aiming to get a NPK of 1.5-13-14-tryin and true advice from Soma, but i haven't been able to find a guano with potassium. Is there another source that i can get it from?
> 
> And i have 2 plants, each different strain. One is still pretty green with only small light green coloring, but it does have some rust spots on it and kind of burnt tips, but i cut them off. I think this strain needs less nutes, would i be correct in that assertation?


.
Earth Juice makes a bottled add-in called Meta K, NPK 0-0-10. It's all organic and makes dailing in teas a breeze. It's easier to use than wood ashes - because the true numbers are known.
.
Every strain does feed differently. Some strains even have lighter or darker green leaves (as a trait) - like some of us have brown hair while others are blonde.
.
If with light green leaves - it's showing nute burn on the tips, I'd check the soil pH to ensure it's in range 6 to 6.8 - to rule out a nute lockout. If the soil pH is correct and it's growth is healthy, then you know it is a lighter feeding strain.
.
Hope this helps....
Keep it Real...Organic.....
.


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## ghostsamurai25 (Feb 24, 2009)

Ohsogreen said:


> .
> Ghostsamurai..... Some strains are light feeders, others are hungry beasts. You have to feed accordingly.
> .
> If you were nute burning your plants, why did you not reduce the mixing strength / volume applied ?
> ...


 
Thanks buddie for the advice, I was pissed and venting. Your right about going slow, I thought I had build them up to be able to handle the increase. This was the third time I actually ferted them. The clones were placed in a mixture of worm casting perlite and some 8 dollar dirt from lowes or hd. The mix wasnt that bad, some cups(16oz) seem to have been hotter than others. Plants were perfect, I mean perfect dark green, not defe. what so ever. On the third feed 3/21 it went down hill, however not as bad as I originaly thought, only a 2 plants suffered burns on a few leaves, the leaves were crispy, straight up broke off. Nasty rusty brown, like the tea was built up in the leaf vains and hardened. Crazy! So I checked them tonight and they were ok, no more bad effects, I will water only for the next week and go back to light, I mean light tea and top dressing. Hell I might not even use the tea, even though I hate wasting anything. I might just use the botanicare as directed with the high p bat guano as a top dressing. What do you thinK?


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## vic1939 (Feb 25, 2009)

How often do you feed your plants with the Tea, Every Watering, once a month?


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## ghostsamurai25 (Feb 26, 2009)

I feed once a week. water, water, feed, water, water feed. I skip a day in between waterings.
I am scared of tea, the last year I have stunted the yield on my grows with using the tea method.
Im going to order a tds meter, Im dieing to see what the ppm is for the tea im using.


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## swishatwista (Feb 26, 2009)

O ok thanks ohso, i just have to feel the different strains out. I had to throw my tea out yesterday because it was starting to smell like mildew or old water. It was my first tea with out using SPT and it bubbled very actively the whole time it bubbled with an air stone. I used a normal strength dosage on everything, is there 2 things that are not supposed to mix, or how would i be able to prevent this next time?


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## ghostsamurai25 (Feb 26, 2009)

I keep the air stone going full time in the brew. The circulation keeps it from going bad. Dont use that shit on the plants 
they dont like it.


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## NewGrow60sToker (Feb 26, 2009)

Here's one.

1 Gallon of water
1 TBSP of guano (I've read that for a flowering mix use Jamaican or Indonesian Bat Guano - for a more general use fertilizer use Peruvian Seabird Guano.)
1 tsp blackstrap or sugar beet molasses
Mix the ingredients directly into the water and allow the tea mix to brew for 24 hours. Use an aquarium pump to aerate the tea, but occasionally shaking it (more than once!!!) will produce a quality tea. 

Some prefer to use a lady&#8217;s nylon or stocking to hold the guano and keep it from making things messy, but the organic matter the manure can contribute to the soil is a good thing. Using this method the plants are getting the benefits of a manure tea and a guano top-dressing all together in the same application. If you use the stocking method, dump the&#8221;tea bag&#8221;leftovers in a compost bin. Even after a good brewing there&#8217;s lots of organic goodness left in that crap!

Besides watering, you can also foliar feed every 2 weeks or so but def stop 2-3 weeks before harvest. Otherwise, the old saying, "smokin some good shit" literally becomes "smokin some good shit".


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## Ohsogreen (Feb 26, 2009)

swishatwista said:


> O ok thanks ohso, i just have to feel the different strains out. I had to throw my tea out yesterday because it was starting to smell like mildew or old water. It was my first tea with out using SPT and it bubbled very actively the whole time it bubbled with an air stone. I used a normal strength dosage on everything, is there 2 things that are not supposed to mix, or how would i be able to prevent this next time?


.
Swishatwista...... The only way to keep a tea from going sour (anerobic) is to keep it bubbling or refrigerate it (keeping it cold/not frozen - only works for a couple of days). Otherwise, the good micro-beasties will use up the oxygen in the mix, then the no-so-nice guys will start working on souring the mix.
.
The reason the SPT works so well is, BMO injects a small colony of dead no-so-nice micro-beasties into their mix while making it. The good guys react by excreting substances which drive away or kill the bad guys. But since they're already dead, these excretions remain in solution.
.
Later, when you pour some SPT into a tea you're brewing, they are already a colony of good guys - well fed & happy, with no enemies in their mix, and good excretions are present to boot. So, they have no problem, overtaking & ruling the tea - just keep the oxygen coming & they keep growing in numbers - breaking down all the amendments you've put in your bucket - steadily making them more soluble for Mary.
.
On the subject of are there things you should not mix in teas - no. Practically any organic amendment can be mixed together, just remember all the numbers add up. If you add cow manure, then rabbit manure, then something else. The NPK numbers are increasing with each thing you add. Simply teas work best, when too many things are added - it's much harder to keep track of the numbers.
.
With your teas, keep the oxygen coming, get some SPT or both for best tea results...... & just in case someone is wondering " Can I brew (bubble) a tea too long ? " The anwser is no. I've bubbled them for up two weeks, with no ill effects.
.
Hope this helps....
.
Keep it Real....Organic....


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## Titan4jah (Feb 27, 2009)

how you been ohso!


can there be too many endo and ecto? can they break down to much n?


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## swishatwista (Feb 28, 2009)

Alright im a little confused, first off, my tea was always being oxogenated with an air stone, there was not one second when it was turned off, but it still soured within 2 days. Should i have added some SPT in the tea at some point? And i thought it gets more soluable the more its being brewed, not by adding spt to it, but either it works for me. I was planning on adding spt when i water and none with my tea mix, but should i add a low dose into my tea and a low dose into my watering mix as well? I just dont understand why my tea soured


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## Bluediemond (Mar 1, 2009)

old thread and didn't read it all...but a quick note. If you are going to compost or make tea....EVERY manure you can find is better for the mix. Chicken, cow and mushroom are easy to find, but adding every animal type you can get is even better for the MOST rounded fert/tea you can make. If you are near a zoo..get some shit! Stick it in your back yard for a month and mix it constantly. Read posts on how to make compost, but everything you can add to the pile is better than a few bags of stuff you find at home depot.


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## maina (Mar 2, 2009)

I can say one thing you can never have to much air pushed into your tea.I went to canada to have A guy show me how to make tea.he makes it 250 gallons at a time.He even watches the oxg. level on a computer.The more things liveing and xxxx = alot of oxg needed I asked him about the set ups in a fish tank and he just smiled .He has a blower set up in his it looks like a water fall of bubbles. I have a 35 gallon galv. trash can temp 70 deg. 4 cups compost 4 cups worm poo and 1/4 cup molasis and 1/2 cup of fish that is 3 months old it should look like sludge .the air is a old air blower from a hot tub pushing air down a pvc pipe running to the bottom of the drum ,it has small holes drilled in it on the lower 1/4 so it will bubble, cap the end..after 48 hours add to garden or plants put in fridge 24 hours no longer. After each batch clean with bleach and water.


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## SimpleSimon (Mar 2, 2009)

maina said:


> I can say one thing you can never have to much air pushed into your tea.I went to canada to have A guy show me how to make tea.he makes it 250 gallons at a time.He even watches the oxg. level on a computer.The more things liveing and xxxx = alot of oxg needed I asked him about the set ups in a fish tank and he just smiled .He has a blower set up in his it looks like a water fall of bubbles. I have a 35 gallon galv. trash can temp 70 deg. 4 cups compost 4 cups worm poo and 1/4 cup molasis and 1/2 cup of fish that is 3 months old it should look like sludge .the air is a old air blower from a hot tub pushing air down a pvc pipe running to the bottom of the drum ,it has small holes drilled in it on the lower 1/4 so it will bubble, cap the end..after 48 hours add to garden or plants put in fridge 24 hours no longer. After each batch clean with bleach and water.



I never clean my bucket in between teas. Think it is really necessary? I have heard that the o2 kills all the bad bacteria and feeds the good.


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## billdo (Mar 3, 2009)

Fucking hell. You are my hero.

I am so doing this as my next project.


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## krypy (Mar 3, 2009)

5 stars and rep Ohsogreen. I haven't finished reading the 28 page thread, but so far I'm learning a great deal. Thank you.


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## dirt clean (Mar 5, 2009)

thanks for all the advice. I have been aerating my bat guano and spt and bio bizz tea for 2 feeds. I use the bio bizz moslty for the K as it is far weeker than the guano. Full tea has SPT, Bio Bizz, Bat guano, eggshell water, molasses.


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## zombie1334 (Mar 6, 2009)

OhSo, what do you think about using some form of Humic Acid in your teas? I've been looking into getting Humbodlt's Hum-Bolt, which is 8% Humic Acid. Think I should get some and add it to a tea?


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## Titan4jah (Mar 6, 2009)

zombie1334 said:


> OhSo, what do you think about using some form of Humic Acid in your teas? I've been looking into getting Humbodlt's Hum-Bolt, which is 8% Humic Acid. Think I should get some and add it to a tea?


my tea has it.

my mix goes as follows.

SPT
molasses
Ancient amber aka humic acid
kelp
organic B AN
hygrozyme

i dont use any N fert cuzz my soils so hott but i do add bmo's flower power once in a while in the start of flower. 

any comments?


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## SimpleSimon (Mar 6, 2009)

zombie1334 said:


> OhSo, what do you think about using some form of Humic Acid in your teas? I've been looking into getting Humbodlt's Hum-Bolt, which is 8% Humic Acid. Think I should get some and add it to a tea?


I LOVE humic acid. My grow store gave me a bottle for free. I use it religiously in my teas and when i germ seeds. It is a natural damp off preventative.


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## zombie1334 (Mar 7, 2009)

Titan4jah said:


> my tea has it.
> 
> my mix goes as follows.
> 
> ...


Ancient Amber only has .1% Humic Acid in it. Hum-Bolt has 8%. Not sure if it makes a difference though, but since I grow indoors, I figured it would be a good idea to get some to protect Mary from stress.


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## odbsmydog (Mar 8, 2009)

Titan4jah said:


> my tea has it.
> 
> my mix goes as follows.
> 
> ...


 you use hygrozyme in your tea? what does that do?

i have some hygrozyme but i dont understand what it's for so i havent used it. i make tea with just wormcastings kelp molasses and sometimes add a little fish and mychrorizzae at the very end of the cycle.

what is hygrozyme? the bottle just says its an enzyme...


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## Ohsogreen (Mar 9, 2009)

Hello all.... The humic acid is great to add to tea. If you are adding worm castings in your tea - you are already adding a very mild humic acid (about .4 % - .6%). The refinded / bottled stuff is great to use - most run from about 4 to 8 percent - just mix as per the bottle label and no worries. Humic acid helps retain moisture, NPK and trace minerals in soil, making them more available to Mary.
.
Hydrozyme is a formula made up mostly of enzymes. These enzymes help breakdown insoluble (not readily available) NPK which is present in dead root material and other chuncky pieces of matter. Hint: If you have beneficial bacteria present in your soil, they are producting enzymes constantly. Plus they, themselves, are engaged in breaking down insoluble NPK and plus providing root protection / enhancement. 
.
SPT, Sub-Culture, Oreganism, Plant Success and similar products are full of beneficial bacteria and fungi. If you have one of these, you don't really need to purchase a seperate enzyme formula. If you hydro and use a drain to waste system, Hydrozyme is good, in that, it offers a slight advantage over beneficial bacteria (faster acting).
.
Hope this helps......
Keep it Real...Organic.....


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## odbsmydog (Mar 9, 2009)

so is it worth adding to my tea? is it gonna be good to spray on the plants?


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## Ohsogreen (Mar 10, 2009)

odbsmydog said:


> so is it worth adding to my tea? is it gonna be good to spray on the plants?


.
OdBsMyDog.... Humic acid (or even Fulvic Acid - which is a premium grade Humic Acid) are good to add to teas that will be foliar sprayed.
.
Personally, I mix it at 1/4 to 1/2 the recommended strength when foliar feeding. I always do foliar feeding just prior to sunrise or lights on - never foliar feed in the heat of the day - it will stress your plants. You can also foliar feed in the evening as the sun goes down or just after lights off.
.
Hope this helps....
.


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## jumpmanlives (Mar 11, 2009)

VERY helpful thread <Ohsogreen> ... I started some cow-poo tea a few days ago. I found an aquarium air bubbler yesterday and plonked it in the bucket. I didn't have any molasses to put it unfortunately. I've got a fair bit of yellowing leaves and folks in other thread reccomended I add some nutes b/c flowering has maybe 4 weeks left.
see:
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/164866-castle-saburac-outdoor-bagseed-no.html#post2214913
and
https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/171428-sick-plants-just-close-harvest.html#post2214902

How much cowpoo tea should I use on each plant 1L (33 fl oz? ... I don't know imperial measurement system) on each?

The poo I got was really old and dry. I live next to a dairy farm so supply is no prob. Is poo better fresh or old?


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## Ohsogreen (Mar 13, 2009)

jumpmanlives said:


> VERY helpful thread <Ohsogreen> ... I started some cow-poo tea a few days ago. I found an aquarium air bubbler yesterday and plonked it in the bucket. I didn't have any molasses to put it unfortunately. I've got a fair bit of yellowing leaves and folks in other thread reccomended I add some nutes b/c flowering has maybe 4 weeks left.
> see:
> https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/164866-castle-saburac-outdoor-bagseed-no.html#post2214913
> and
> ...


.
JumpManLives..... After you bubble up your tea, give each plant 1 liter (quart plus one oz) per 3.85 liters (gallon) of soil in your pots. So, if you have 7 liter pots (around 2 gallon pots), give them 2 liters of tea. If growing in ground, give them 3.85 liters (1 gallon) per plant.
.
Aged manures tend to be best for making teas - it prevents the possibility of nitrogen burn - which can happen with fresh manures like chicken.
.
Don't put leaves directly in your tea, instead compost them. It will be more beneficial later in a good compost tea.
.
Hope this helps....
.


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## ghostsamurai25 (Mar 15, 2009)

Im back. Has anyone had an issue with worm casting burning plants. I think I made mine too hot, casting was in the worm bin for almost a year. I used a small amount on one plant as a top dressing and it fried my baby. I thought before that I was having other problems to only find out by chance that it was this one ingredient causing me so much trouble. Im glad I figured it out. Let me know if you have heard of this before and what do. I dont want to throw my casting away, I spend a lot of time making it.


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## DankFiend (Mar 15, 2009)

Great thread. I love making nice compost teas. Thanks for the info guys!


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## dirt clean (Mar 15, 2009)

ghostsamurai25 said:


> Im back. Has anyone had an issue with worm casting burning plants. I think I made mine too hot, casting was in the worm bin for almost a year. I used a small amount on one plant as a top dressing and it fried my baby. I thought before that I was having other problems to only find out by chance that it was this one ingredient causing me so much trouble. Im glad I figured it out. Let me know if you have heard of this before and what do. I dont want to throw my casting away, I spend a lot of time making it.


 
idk that about the wormcastigns. I have read a lot about the worms and have started my own bin but I have yet to hear of worm burn. In fact I am have only read over and over how it impossible to burn with castings. I am sure you have read these reports too. 

However something about length in the bin has done something to the N levels. If it has I would think that the N levels already in your soil must be really high.

Is the castign fully composted organic material? Becasue if it wasnt then that would easily be the culprit. 


what else do you add. I have been feeding heavy guano, fish, castings, and bio bizz. Along with spt, kelp, and molasses. I have had no burning. It seems it is impossible to burn in organic. Like the plants will eat it if they need it. 

IDK that man, considering your past probs it has to be something else the boards have missed. 


keep reporting.


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## billdo (Mar 15, 2009)

Yo Ohso.... got a question for you:

Where do you get all of your tea components?


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## odbsmydog (Mar 16, 2009)

get kelp and castings at the hydro store/garden center and unsulphured mollasses at any grocery store.health food stores sell it in bulk for cheap.


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## dirt clean (Mar 16, 2009)

I seem to recall that their is a way to brew teas that are optimal for bacteria growth as opposed to fungi and something else. 

I have read tha mj is an annual. I have also read that annuals love bacteria as opposed to fungi. I want to optimise bacteria production.

I have the full assortment of castings and other additives. I just got some steer manure for teas too. Also mx guano, bio bizz, pbp, molasses, spt, liquid karma, hydroguard, kelp, fish, and probably a few more.

Anyway, does castigns have a brew time perhaps that I should shoot for to optimise or perhaps a temp? I read something some where I just cant find it. 

does cow poo have bacteria. Simp question and I am going to happily read the net for more as well as the rodale book i have coming. I swear this is my favorite hobby. I am just looking for experience. Also I am loaded on opiates as usual so this be the groove if you know what I mean.

Go medical Organic!


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## odbsmydog (Mar 16, 2009)

dude just think about it "does cow poop have bacteria?" hell yeah it does, i wouldnt want to be touching it. worm castings have tons and kelp and mollasses is food for bennificial bacteria. if you bubble those three for up to 36 hours you will have billions of bacteria. mychorrizzae has all the good fungus for marijuana, add it after the brew cycle though because it breaks down easily. id suggest roots organics organizms mychorrizae but if not plant success works great...


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## bobharvey (Mar 21, 2009)

I just got some "Black Kow" manure from walmart. I put about 5 cups in a tote and about 3 gallons of water. I have it bubbling and plan on using it in 3-4 days. Is this tea okay to use during bloom? Because I have a very small cabinet and I can only veg for 2 weeks give or take so most of my grow (will be perpetual when i get it set up) will be in the bloom cycle. I'm gonna order some budswel or superswell bat guano to make tea also.

Also I add one ounce of mollasses yes?

Thanks peace


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## odbsmydog (Mar 23, 2009)

i just love bubbling tea


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## dirt clean (Mar 23, 2009)

your manure tea will be great but remember it has not enough npk in it as a stand alone fert. 

does your soil have guano or bone meal in it?

are you using other fert?

i love making tea too. i use a home dept bucket with 2 fish pumps and duct tape covering the outside of the bucket. I made the mistake of adding fish and wow the smell is hard to overcome, at least worse than I thought, sorta gets everywhere. Lol, I live in an apt and this is my first soil grow so I have some bugs to work out. Dont let that fish sit in the tent or on the bubblers. 

Is is not that bad. Fish is so halthy.

I sue bio bizz as a base. Then I redisovered BMO nutes. They got evrything in them already like a tea with extra bacteria already added. The only thing to do is bubble it to increase bacteria. Seriosly it is like a perfect tea in a bottle. 


No other nute has anything like it. Plus they use guanos a s a major source for their NPK, verytone else uses inferior products I thought. 

Anyway this is my new tea. I will probably bubble it and add some amendments anyways. But cool. . . 


remember mj plants, so I have read, love bacteria more than myco. I will keep reading on this and reporting back lol.


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## bobharvey (Mar 23, 2009)

I'm temporarily using the cheap organic potting mix from wal-mart. I will be using bloom guano tea when i get it in too.


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## CommieChase (Mar 23, 2009)

I love to add guanos and BMO SPT in my teas as well. My plants love the shit! We also compost some with all fruits & veggies (we are vegan) and add that to my teas. Adding SPT directly to the compost seems to make it go crazy... in a good way. The compost looks so dark, rich, and fertile! Can't beat that. Mix it all up with some harvested rain water, and we start to get old school!

That manure will be great to use in your teas, but like dirt clean said, make sure you add other stuff to it. It would be good to use as a nice top dressing, or mix into a folair spray (but not during flowering).


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## odbsmydog (Mar 24, 2009)

dirt clean said:


> your manure tea will be great but remember it has not enough npk in it as a stand alone fert.
> 
> does your soil have guano or bone meal in it?
> 
> ...


um anything with bacteria already added is gonna degrade really fast. bacteria only lasts in a bottle a few days when refridgerated. you can leave it bubbling though for like a week and it lasts better but still degrades..

anyways back to what you were asking about my tea.

I add a little mixture of shit i put together from open containers at the hydro store i worked at. its roots hpk which is a bloom liquid guano and buddha bloom from roots that is some good stuff like castings and humic acid and other guanos. that's what i use when im blooming when im veging i just use the base tea of castings kelp and mollasses. and i throw in some mycrorrizae the last 5 min or so of brewing cause i love that shit..

but i always use pura vida veg or bloom every other waterings cause that shit is just the bee's knee's. its a vegan organic nute that is as readilyavailable as a chemy fert. 

I also have some samples of 3d organics rx grow and bloom and ohm dry that i've been adding like every other week or so or when i remember i have it...

i know that doesnt help with your q's much and i wouldnt be using any of these hings if i didnt get them for free except the pura vida grow and bloom and the bubble tea i make of age old worm castings and kelp and the mollasses i get for cheap in bulk at the health food store..

good luck and happy tea making!


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## greenleafhigh (Mar 24, 2009)

My gals LOVE!!! Compost tea....


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## greenleafhigh (Mar 24, 2009)

I also use fish emousion and like the first 6-10 hrs it smellls very fish but then it starts to bet the wonderfull compost/molas tea oh i love the smell i feel like im just smellling it every five min as it is brewing


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## CommieChase (Mar 24, 2009)

greenleafhigh said:


> I also use fish emousion and like the first 6-10 hrs it smellls very fish but then it starts to bet the wonderfull compost/molas tea oh i love the smell i feel like im just smellling it every five min as it is brewing


The fish STINKS! The cats always go crazy when I use it though. haha.


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## odbsmydog (Mar 24, 2009)

does anyone know anything about bokashi or applying it to compost tea? im very curious...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bokashi_composting


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## dirt clean (Mar 25, 2009)

i dont see the point man. about the bokashi. I know you do not want the anerobic shit, lol. scary. In a tea? What if it ate all your shit in some weird way? I would not. I would make compost and add that to a tea and your soil. Make sure you dont put a lid on it.


I just made a tea. I used some worm castigns mixed with light warrior at a cup a gallon. I had it laying around. I also added some steer manure, bio bizz grow and flower, molasses, spt, hydroguard. This was for lr2 about to flower. It is day 24 or so and no sex yet. But they are femmed.

No more fish for me either. I am switching to all blue mountain organics. Everything I want in a tea but air. I am going to add the foliar to the flower and use that at various strengths.


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## slipperyP (Apr 7, 2009)

This has been a great thread.....I got a ton more to read thanks for your information. 

Can anyone comment on this video from You Tube.....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8_PuUon5_Q

This guy builds a tea brewer as demonstration

peace


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## CommieChase (Apr 7, 2009)

That's a pretty long video. Didn't watch the whole thing but from what I saw it seems pretty sound. The basic things that go into constructing a "compost tea" are in there. Pretty good video from what I watched.


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## dirt clean (Apr 7, 2009)

hey I am sorry about the Bokashi comment, I meant in a tea. Weird. 

But in compost that is some awesome shit. I read a guy that takes some himself.

dont underestimate the compost tea videos on you tube. Watch one, then watch the vidoes that pop up as similiar in nature. Millions of cool shit. Like this one guy who has the worlds record. He does it with compost tea. This is for reg vegatble. He also sows how he is sogging some potaoes or something, lol. But useinf the compost teas for foliar sprays he is rockin it. That would be swesome for outdoor growers. To by those on gallon spryars the mist for like 10 buvks at hd and go to town. I am brewing up a batchright now for my herbs and tomatoes that are right at my grow room. I am thinking of putting out a glass box on the balcony, lile a glass panel and throwing some plants out there. I measure the light and even in the shade in the morning the inderect light hits at 50k+ lumens and in afternoon I get the full 100+. I am legal, the cops already talked to me, my neighbor is cool, and I dont deal. 

The only thing is the helcopters are kinds sketchy, as in how good are the cops ate internal communication. I still am considering that predawn raid if things go south for medical growers. They told me the laws are schtch but they beleived me so I could go. 

But damn a tea foliar spray and the natural 600 watt of the sun! Lol, . . . .. . ..


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## dirt clean (Apr 7, 2009)

Just made a tea. I perform this miracle in 5 gallon bucket. Home depot.

Use a fish tank air bar and an air pump

3 gallons 4 stage DI water
3 tbsp grow it green
3 tbsp super plant tonic
2 tabsp blackstrap unsulphered molasses
2 handfuls of compost
1 tbsp of fish emulsion omri
1 tbsp liquid kelp
1 tbsp mex bat guano


I will feed a gallon each to 3 trees I have a month in veg in 7 gallon pots. They are also top dressed with mex bat guano.
The soil is my own blend. Cellos organic soil and Kellogg&#8217;s compost with worm castings and dolomite and azomite and various guanos and greensand to give a base to. Not a lot but enough.

I am under HIDS> therefore Foliar spray is a dream of mind but I am just switching to 18/6 so I am going to see if I can get way with a spray. The HID will decimate a wet plant. Bacteria on the leaves will be killer to any plant and it is a good way to rapidly get nutes too. 

A simple compost foliar spray will work wonders on a plant. They sell for 10 dollars at home depot air charged sprayers that will mist the hell out of our girls. Hand powered. I got one. I cant wait.Rawr.


As you can see I treat my teas like they are soups or magic batches of love that I sort of just brew a little of this and that. Careful, though, I am careful not to add to much. There is such a thing, I am learning right now about the joys of soil absorbtion, as opposed to hydro. The grow it green is seriously added as is the spt.


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## Ohsogreen (Apr 19, 2009)

Organic fertilizer teas are magically delicious for plants & soil that is alive is where Mary will thrive.......
.
Bump.....cause recycling is good for a growers.....knowledge base.....
.
.


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## dirt clean (Apr 21, 2009)

wow, I got some good news. I was adding fresh worm compost and the extra bacterial action was noticable. Plus, HD compost, plus 1 tbsp molasses a gallon, plus super plant tonic, plus well you get the point I had the first tea ever of mine start to bubble. Bubbles not from the airstone. A nice head, a froth.

I like the fact I can add fresh worm castings from my 5 tray worm farm. I just reach in and pull out what looks like black coir.


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## Ohsogreen (Apr 25, 2009)

dirt clean said:


> wow, I got some good news. I was adding fresh worm compost and the extra bacterial action was noticable. Plus, HD compost, plus 1 tbsp molasses a gallon, plus super plant tonic, plus well you get the point I had the first tea ever of mine start to bubble. Bubbles not from the airstone. A nice head, a froth.
> 
> I like the fact I can add fresh worm castings from my 5 tray worm farm. I just reach in and pull out what looks like black coir.


.
Dirt clean..... Between the worm castings & the SPT in your tea, your soil will definately be richer in benefical bacteria & fungi than any ready made soil on the market. 
.
With TLO (True Living Organics) Mary hits her maximum potential, which equals smooth smoke and top notch yields..... 
.
Keep it Real....Organic....
.
.


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## Titan4jah (Apr 29, 2009)

What soils are you guys using...they must not be that rich if you can add 2 tbspoons of spt and not burn..


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## billdo (Apr 29, 2009)

spt is pretty gentle, actually... i am using a 10-10-10 organic potting mix from my local garden store.


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## slipperyP (Apr 29, 2009)

i just used SPT for the first time....its brewing right now with some bat guano, worm castings, and molasses....i was inspired by this thread....i hope i don't regret it 

I'm in day 14 of flower and I can't afford a disaster. +rep to ohsogreen for starting this one.


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## Titan4jah (May 1, 2009)

billdo said:


> spt is pretty gentle, actually... i am using a 10-10-10 organic potting mix from my local garden store.


 Not really you have to make sure you dont add it to soil thats to hot. i made the mistake of adding it to early in some fresh potting soil an everything went poof from the amount of soluble nitrogen the beasts released.


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## billdo (May 1, 2009)

Titan4jah said:


> Not really you have to make sure you dont add it to soil thats to hot. i made the mistake of adding it to early in some fresh potting soil an everything went poof from the amount of soluble nitrogen the beasts released.


good to know! duly noted!


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## Rhizome (May 3, 2009)

What kind of pump would you guys recommend to making teas with? I have a 'small bubble' aquarium pump, but I read on here that it can actually do harm to the microbeasties in your tea. But I've only ever read that on here. What size pump should I get if thats true?


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## slipperyP (May 3, 2009)

Rhizome said:


> What kind of pump would you guys recommend to making teas with? I have a 'small bubble' aquarium pump, but I read on here that it can actually do harm to the microbeasties in your tea. But I've only ever read that on here. What size pump should I get if thats true?


I used a 60 gallon pump from wal-mart with a couple T's and air stones.

I started a new thread on calculating the NPK value of organic tea. I hope to get some good info on the topic.

https://www.rollitup.org/organics/190023-calculating-n-p-k-value.html#post2452279


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## Ohsogreen (May 12, 2009)

Time to recycle this old thread......
.
.


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## dirt clean (May 13, 2009)

as for bubbles, I got this one. I have read numerous studies that the larger bubbles are what we are looking for. I have removed my airstones and added a weight to the tube and I am seeing the results.

At about hour 18 I begin to see bubbles forming and around hour 24 I feed. Bubbles are a sign of bacteria and mj loves bacteria as it is an annual. Annuals are lovers of the bacterial action, while perennials are more fungi loving I have read. IDK, but I am looking at some beautiful trees.


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## Ohsogreen (May 13, 2009)

dirt clean said:


> as for bubbles, I got this one. I have read numerous studies that the larger bubbles are what we are looking for. I have removed my airstones and added a weight to the tube and I am seeing the results.
> 
> At about hour 18 I begin to see bubbles forming and around hour 24 I feed. Bubbles are a sign of bacteria and mj loves bacteria as it is an annual. Annuals are lovers of the bacterial action, while perennials are more fungi loving I have read. IDK, but I am looking at some beautiful trees.


.
Dirt Clean...... You are correct. The bigger bubbles do work better. I used to use an airstone, but recently made the switch. I am seeing better results with the bigger bubbles - which are less harmful to the micro-life.
.
Thanks for sharing.....
.
Keep it Real.....Organic....
.
.


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## somebody041 (May 13, 2009)

so would i just weigh down the end of the plastic tubing? what do you use to weigh it down?


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## slipperyP (May 14, 2009)

I made a separate post for this question...I think i should have stuck the question here. 






*Rabbit Food vs Rabbit Poo* 
permalink
 I was thinking about making a batch of organic tea to feed to my vegging plants. I was looking at the various values I have gathered from this site about the NPK if different organic amendments. 

Alfalfa Pellets 
NPK 3-1-2 

Rabbit Crap
NPK 2-1-.5 

If these values are correct...the alfalfa pellets appear to have more nutritional value. Do any of you know...Is there unseen benefits in using rabbit crap over the cleaner and easier to use pellets. Thanks for any help.

I was looking for any knowledge of the bacterial advantages or other benefits of using rabbit crap instead of alfalfa pellets?


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## to serve man (May 14, 2009)

somebody041 said:


> so would i just weigh down the end of the plastic tubing? what do you use to weigh it down?


Good question. I've been wondering the same thing.


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## Ohsogreen (May 14, 2009)

to serve man said:


> Good question. I've been wondering the same thing.


.
Guys... At the end of the day, NPK is NPK, which ever source is cheap and more available, would be the one I'd use.
.
The processed alfalfa pellets will be less bioactive (having very few live microorganisms in them), compared to the bunny manure which will be full of micro-life. Add some worm castings, or a handfull of clean, healthy soil to it and it works out..........pretty much the same......
.
Hope this helps....
Keep it Real....Organic.....
.
.


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## to serve man (May 15, 2009)

Ohsogreen said:


> .
> Guys... At the end of the day, NPK is NPK, which ever source is cheap and more available, would be the one I'd use.
> .
> The processed alfalfa pellets will be less bioactive (having very few live microorganisms in them), compared to the bunny manure which will be full of micro-life. Add some worm castings, or a handfull of clean, healthy soil to it and it works out..........pretty much the same......
> ...


Haha, no no, sorry. Not about the NPK reply. I was wondering how to weigh down the tubes when you put them in the compost water. They keep rising back up to the surface!

I used BMO for my last grow, but I never made aeriated teas with them, just straight mixed them, so I'm not sure if that was good or not, but hey, I got dank buds from it to last us a while, so I'm not complaining.


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## slipperyP (May 15, 2009)

Im working on a sugar recipe to supplement my organic tea. I have heard of using : sucrant, honey, sugar in the raw, molasses, apple juice and even 7-Up. I know for sure im not using 7up, but the others i'm open to trying esspecially if it means better resin production.

Any thoughts or a good recipe I can use in my first grow? Im in about day 30 or so of flower and day 1 of flower.


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## dirt clean (May 15, 2009)

I got the best advice on how to weigh down tubes. I took a pot lid or another peice of heravy crockery and make a loos knot around. I coffee mug will work. Then dunk. Some aquarium silicone is a good idea, from home depot, and a peice of metal. A no money knot is a worker, but remember hydro and all that aquarium silcone smelling like BO? I love organic. I just got a 600 Lumatek. That was my walking around money for 2 weeks so I get 2 brag. Ladies gonna have to pay


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## dirt clean (May 15, 2009)

slippery P= remember the sugar is only their to get the bacteria moving. I would just stick with the 1 tbsp molasses a gallon to feed the bacteria. It is a recipe after all and the explosion of bacteria from all that not to mention whatever the frick, or frack, that is in 7-up might not be cool. I have heard and seen some successful use of applejuice from wal-mart by -DirtBag- on this site to flower better for flavor. Check him out.

I would use with your BMO, batguano, fish emulsion, compost, worm castings, liquid karma, steer manure or any other for all the wins you can imagine. I would only worry about to much N prolonging veg and not letting flower start right away. IDK, this is just my guess or, experience, as that is what I did and am having the best grow. My trees are three days in flower and looking great. Also hanging mylar around the hood ald loosely on the plants canopy is actually a pretty big bonus. That extra % is visible. 

Also I wonder what you guys think about that product guardian tr at hydro stores. Is it worth it or are the goods we find just as good. I am betting on worm castings and compost and manures and BMO being more than cool.


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## KeYz (May 16, 2009)

I love this thread, it has been so instrumental in the way I think about fertilizers. I just made this quick recipe, gonna go out and make it soon, figure I post it here for the input.

Vegetative Growth Tea:

1 Gallon filtered water (reverse osmosis)
1 Tablespoon Blood Meal
1 Tablespoon Bat Guano (High N)
2 Tablespoons Fish Emulsion
2 Cups worm castings
1/4 Teaspoon of Superthrive

Let sit in the water for 3 days and shake several times a day.

Apply once every 2 weeks until time to flower.

In addition, I might top dress the area with a mix of worm casings and guano.

Sound good to you fellas?


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## billdo (May 16, 2009)

silly question here... but i was just thinking about this randomly:

the universal advice is to use compost teas immediately upon completion of bubbling. OK, fine... but isn't it odd that the BMO product range is (as i understand it) highly concentrated teas that are then to be mixed with water... yet they have a shelf life of a couple months.


what gives? what is BMO adding to their teas to make them storable? or is it just that their particular mixtures happen to last longer?

anyone have any thoughts on this? wouldn't it be nice to brew really hot "base teas", store them for months at a time, and then just add them to water and molasses (and bubble a bit if you like) for quick and easy feeding?


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## slipperyP (May 16, 2009)

billdo said:


> silly question here... but i was just thinking about this randomly:
> 
> the universal advice is to use compost teas immediately upon completion of bubbling. OK, fine... but isn't it odd that the BMO product range is (as i understand it) highly concentrated teas that are then to be mixed with water... yet they have a shelf life of a couple months.
> 
> ...



The SPT stays good for 2 years it says on the bottle.


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## billdo (May 16, 2009)

slipperyP said:


> The SPT stays good for 2 years it says on the bottle.


so why does their tea stay good for 2 years in this case, but the stuff we are making is more of the "use immediately" variety?


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## to serve man (May 17, 2009)

Good question. Never thought of that. I'd like to know the answer as well. I'm guessing that the microbeasties stay somewhat dormant until you add oxygen for a couple days, then they get working again. Not sure.


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## somebody041 (May 17, 2009)

billdo said:


> silly question here... but i was just thinking about this randomly:
> 
> the universal advice is to use compost teas immediately upon completion of bubbling. OK, fine... but isn't it odd that the BMO product range is (as i understand it) highly concentrated teas that are then to be mixed with water... yet they have a shelf life of a couple months.
> 
> ...


i believe that BMO's method to making their tea concentrates is to brew all ingredients together, then zap them to kill all living things in there, and once it is sterile they add their own endo/ecto bacteria and fungi.


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## Ohsogreen (May 17, 2009)

billdo said:


> so why does their tea stay good for 2 years in this case, but the stuff we are making is more of the "use immediately" variety?


.
Billdo... That is an excellant question. I asked the guy who invented the stuff, basically the same thing. 
.
He explained, they control all aspects of the production, using certain temps, certain pressures, and only a few very specific bacteria / fungi strains. 
.
During the process, they inject dead anaerobic bacteria into their mix. This causes the good bacteria to excrete some kind of substance to combact the bad, anaerobic bacteria, but since they are already dead, the stuff stays in suspension. 
.
Later they pastuerize the mix, and add only certain other bacteria / fungi. The fungi stay dormant until they come in contact with a substance only excreted by the roots of plants. The bacteria, stay dormant, because they are in this large volume of this excreted substance that was used to combat (the already dead) bad, anaerobic bacteria.
.
It's pretty amazing how they manipulate the solution the bacteria / fungi are in. Beyond that, he said " Trade Secrets, Sorry ". 
.
I wish I had the receipe, I wonder if they keep it in a safe ? I wonder if their dog knows it, like the Bush Beans pooch......
Anyway, that's part of the reason why, I don't know the rest..... Trade Secrets......  
.
Keep it Real.....Organic....
.
.


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## slipperyP (May 17, 2009)

This is my first grow and Im only using SPT. I am thinking of using the other products...What are the musts to know about BMO products?


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## KeYz (May 18, 2009)

I have looked over my recipe and realized it really didn't add up to a well balanced fertilizer. After doing more research I have two recipes that I will use. Each one will be applied every two weeks and will be bubbled for 3 days before use, about 1 quart will be given to each plant. The solids that are left will top dress the plants, about 5 inches out from the stem. 

Recipe for Veg:

1 Gallon of filtered Water (reverse osmosis)
2 Tablespoons of Bat Guano (N)
1 Tablespoon of Bat Guano (P)
1 Cup Ash from Hardwood (K)
1 Cup used Coffee Grounds
1 Tablespoon Fish Emulsion
1/4 Teaspoon Superthrive
4 Tablespoon Worm Castings
1 Teaspoon Molasses

Recipe for Budding:

1 Gallon of filtered Water (reverse osmosis)
1 Tablespoon of Bat Guano (N)
2 Tablespoons of Bat Guano (P)
1 Cup Ash from Hardwood (K)
1 Cup used Coffee Grounds
1 Tablespoon Fish Emulsion
4 Tablespoon Worm Castings
1 Teaspoon Molasses

I might just add the ash in the mix twice, once in mid June, then once in mid July. I might add more worm casings and/or molasses as well. But I believe this will be a safe blue print so far. SPT could be nice but I don't know where to get it, not too sure how useful bacteria will be in clay soil either.


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## dirt clean (May 18, 2009)

you have bacteria in there already. Bacteria is what breaks down your NPK containing ingreds in your soil right now and feed it to your plants, as it is, in your plan right now.

A clay soil is still soil. Can you add sand? I just got some at lowes. It is cheap. Also I found alsaska morebloom. Fish is 5-1-1. Morebloom is 0-10-10. Cool. 

I see you are adding molasses and brewing with air. That is creating your bacteria infusion right now. This will supercharge your bacteria already in your soil naturally. To supercharge your soil with bacterial infusions is what goves us in organics extra killer plants. In chem people just feed the already broken down NPK to the plants. Chem is bacterial harmful.

SPT is available on eBay. It is marketed oddly as I found it hard to find unless I typed in "Super Plant Tonic". It sounds corny but it is not and is pretty cool. It is a super infusion of extra bacteria from key sorces that they pro added to get a killer mix. It is a highly recomneded extra to worm casting and manure and compost bacteria, also fungi ( I cannot remember). 

I am obsessed with aerobic bacteria for my girls as I have interstimgly read that between bacteria and fungo annuals like mj love the bacteria better and while both are useful it is that 20 hour bacteria formation that is studly. I mean that when around 20 hours a lot of bubbles start to show in my bucket I know that my tea is almost ready. 

There is also a product called guardian bacteria tr that I would like to try. SPT is so cheap though and I am sure as good that I will shut my mouth. It is a quiet company that has no add revenue. 

Also I read again that you use 1 tsp molasses a gallon. I recomend 1 TBSP of molasses a gallon and then stick an air hose in your bucket, no stone, for 18-24 hours. This will give you a nice froth of bacteria. A say no stone as small bubbles will kill bacteria I have read.


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## dirt clean (May 18, 2009)

Also, I see you are using fresh coffee grounds. I am sketchy on using thoughs. I have read that they are too hot. Also I see like me that you cant resist all those tea ingreds. I added BMO, fish, guano and ocasionally a drop or so of bio bizz. I can only thank my lucky stars that I did not burn anything, which I have found almost impossible in organics, or more likely delay flowering. I gave some veg teas to my LR2 and they never flowered. 

welcome aboard riu.


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## KeYz (May 18, 2009)

I should have clarified about the coffee grounds. The sole purpose of adding the coffee grounds is to balance the PH after adding the ash. I actually got this idea from someone else on the forum, one cup of used coffee grounds for each cup of ash, so they neutralize each other. 

I decided to add the ash/coffee only twice during the season, in mid June and mid July. It will not be in my flowering schedule. I have seen both teaspoon and tablespoon of molasses. Perhaps I should use a teaspoon for veg just to give the bacteria some food, and a tablespoon in flower to help give the plant a carbo load.


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## to serve man (May 18, 2009)

slipperyP said:


> This is my first grow and Im only using SPT. I am thinking of using the other products...What are the musts to know about BMO products?


You are going to need to use more than just the SPT. You will need some kind of good organic "grow" and organic "flower" nute unless you have a "super soil" that all the kids rave about now a days. BMO has both of them, they are well worth it. My last grow I used the whole BMO line. SPT is just that, a tonic, not a nutrient.


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## to serve man (May 18, 2009)

Also, can you bubble your tea for about 4 days and it will still be good? Just as long as it has been bubbling the entire time?


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## slipperyP (May 18, 2009)

to serve man said:


> You are going to need to use more than just the SPT. You will need some kind of good organic "grow" and organic "flower" nute unless you have a "super soil" that all the kids rave about now a days. BMO has both of them, they are well worth it. My last grow I used the whole BMO line. SPT is just that, a tonic, not a nutrient.


My bad...Im using SPT...as the only BMO product...I am also using bat guano's and worm castings and molasses. Next time I was thinking of ordering the other bottles that I saw when I ordered these.


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## to serve man (May 18, 2009)

slipperyP said:


> My bad...Im using SPT...as the only BMO product...I am also using bat guano's and worm castings and molasses. Next time I was thinking of ordering the other bottles that I saw when I ordered these.


Oh! Yeah dude, the BMO is solid stuff. The pic in my avatar is of an entire BMO grow (Grow, Flower, SPT, Alaska MorBloom 0-10-10, & Blackstrap Molasses). With a 14 day flush, those girls were tasty meds! 

I;m using the same nute line for my current grow as well. They are only 2 1/2 weeks into vegging, but already looking tight, just from the soil.


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## slipperyP (May 19, 2009)

to serve man said:


> Oh! Yeah dude, the BMO is solid stuff. The pic in my avatar is of an entire BMO grow (Grow, Flower, SPT, Alaska MorBloom 0-10-10, & Blackstrap Molasses). With a 14 day flush, those girls were tasty meds!
> 
> I;m using the same nute line for my current grow as well. They are only 2 1/2 weeks into vegging, but already looking tight, just from the soil.



Do you think a 14 day flush is necessary? I would really like to have a one week flush and a few days to dry out? Im in week 5 of my first crop so I got a minute to think about it and do some research.


----------



## to serve man (May 19, 2009)

2 weeks (14 days) is pretty standard flushing time, it makes sure that the plants use up ALL of the nutrients left in the soil. If your plants leaves are pretty yellow when harvesting, all the nutrients are out. A good test that I used to use, but not anymore just because, is snap off a leaf branch and taste it. If it tastes clean and like water, than all the nutes are out. A week is an okay flush time if you are in a hurry, but I would suggest at least 14 days to get primo dankness. You don't want to do all that work during growing, and then not give the plant a proper flush and have it spark and burn slow and uneven.

I know people that don't do any flush on their plants, because they assume that since its organic it doesn't need to be. I don't know if thats true or not, but I do know that these same peoples weed don't burn as smooth as a proper flushed plant, and they don't taste as clean. Even though I only grow 100% organic dank, I still flush, just because of this. Nutrients are nutrients, wether organic or toxic sludge.


----------



## KeYz (May 20, 2009)

I have an update, one that I am sad to report.

I used a very basic tea just to kick start my outdoor plant with a boost of N. I mixed bat guano and fish emulsion, let sit in a container for 2 days, I didn't have a pump going so I just shook it a few times. 

When I applied it, it smelled very fishy... this would be my undoing. Although it was in a fenced in area, my plant was dug up by some evil creature out there, trying to find the fish. 

My plant is still alive, but was completely removed from the ground. I replanted and gave it some water, I pray that she will take hold and make it.

I am going to get an air pump and let it run a little be longer than before, next time I will make sure that it does not smell like fish before using. I have heard that worm casings can help mask it, I sure hope so.


----------



## Ohsogreen (May 21, 2009)

KeYz said:


> I have an update, one that I am sad to report.
> 
> I used a very basic tea just to kick start my outdoor plant with a boost of N. I mixed bat guano and fish emulsion, let sit in a container for 2 days, I didn't have a pump going so I just shook it a few times.
> 
> ...


.
KeYz.... When growing outdoors, the scent of anything that attracts armadillos, racoons or opposums is the cause of much grief : avoid blood meal (period), bone meal, fish meal / emulsion or rabbit manure on the surface (if they are within 4 inches of the surface - you've got problems).
.
Bat guano will not attract these pests, neither will worm castings, well aged compost, or teas brewed for a week (until they smell earthy).
.
Just be aware, if you are using molasses in your teas to feed the micro-life, it attracts earthworms in your soil later, earthworms are tasty treats for armadillos...etc....
.
Putting chicken wire or metal mesh wire, just below the surface is a good deterent. *Make sure*, *it's in two pieces*, *not a single piece with a hole in the center....* or a armadillo may just hook it with one front paw and back up quickly - causing the wire to cut your plant at the base. 
.
Larger flat rocks, arranged around the base help also, just make sure they don't stand out (strange color that does not blend in...etc). I lay leaves on these rocks, then spray paint (lightly) them with brown & or cream colored spray paint. Then crumble up oak leaves and sprinkle them on the rocks. They stick like glue and help the rocks to blend into the terrain.
.
Sprinkling moth ball crystals, two feet out from your plants (minimum) keeps most pests away. This only last for two or three light rains, then has to be replaced. Coyote piss works very well and can be bought online at different hunting / game outfitters.
.
Hope this helps....
Keep it Real....Organic....
.
.


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## Slab (May 26, 2009)

Thanks you Osho for the info thus far.

Bump it up with PH balance methods or if it is necessary with teas.


----------



## Ohsogreen (Jun 5, 2009)

Slab said:


> Thanks you Osho for the info thus far.
> 
> Bump it up with PH balance methods or if it is necessary with teas.


.
Slab.... You are welcome. With Organic Fertilizer Teas, pH will drift over time. The key is knowing your ingredients.
.
Most sources of Nitrogen tend to be acidic, most sources of P & K tend to be alkaline. After a tea has been brewing for 24 hours, the pH will have changed by a point on average, sometimes two. 
.
The pH of the water you start with also influences the pH.
.
If your tea is between 5 and 7 on the pH scale, no need to worry about adjusting it. That will take place naturally in the soil. 
.
That being said, if your soil was running a bit high, like 7 or above, you would want a tea closer to the 5 pH mark. Adding a 7 to 7 will not help. But on the other hand, if your soil was say 5.8 pH, adding a tea with a pH of 7 would help.
.
The key is seek balance, shoot for middle of the road numbers, make all adjustments in small increments. Low, Slow & Steady.....
.
Hope this helps.....
Keep it Real....Organic....
.
.


----------



## DOVESPRINGSGROWER (Jun 5, 2009)

Hello oshogreen 

I am now on my third grow the first two were hydro (jus wasnt for me i guess) and now i went with soil. I have a 4 week old skunk plant in some ocean forest and i want to go organic with some tea as nutes and have a worm farm also. My main question is i want to have both worm farm and tea buckets outside im in central texas so it can get pretty hot will the heat effect the two?


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## dirt clean (Jun 6, 2009)

THe heat will affect the worm farm, keep them moist or inside if yu can but the heat should actually be ok for tea making. Yes, bacteria respond well to a little warmth, I think over a 100 starts to push it. Common sense. Lol. Remeber if yu brew a tea to keep it aerobic after 24 hours to add a tbsp of molasses or so a day for every couple of gallons of water. Not really worth it, to keep a tea. Remember if it stinks it is poison.


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## DOVESPRINGSGROWER (Jun 6, 2009)

okay thanks i was readin into just a compost pile but i am a lil confused i know like grass veggies and manure go in the pile but do i also keep dirt in it like a pile of dirt with the trash with it or jus trash and manure


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## billdo (Jun 7, 2009)

That was one bad-ass answer. Wow!
+Rep for you, good sir!




Ohsogreen said:


> .
> Billdo... That is an excellant question. I asked the guy who invented the stuff, basically the same thing.
> .
> He explained, they control all aspects of the production, using certain temps, certain pressures, and only a few very specific bacteria / fungi strains.
> ...


----------



## ttumaddawg (Jun 13, 2009)

Oshogreen, I have read pretty much every page of this thread....you have been more than kind with spreading your knowledge of the organics with all of us.

I have one question for you.

At what week of flowering do you stop giving any teas/nutrients and just start giving it plain ol' water to finish on say an 8 week strain?

I know you said you like to let them coast and use up all the nutes the last few weeks, but is it 2 or 3 weeks?

Thanks again daddio.


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## to serve man (Jun 13, 2009)

The last two weeks of flowering is when you just give straight water. Do a flush at about week 6 on an 8 week plant, then just straight water the rest until harvest.


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## ttumaddawg (Jun 13, 2009)

to serve man said:


> The last two weeks of flowering is when you just give straight water. Do a flush at about week 6 on an 8 week plant, then just straight water the rest until harvest.


to serve man,

thank you sir for your quick response...I figured 2 weeks was good enough


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## Ohsogreen (Jun 14, 2009)

ttumaddawg said:


> Oshogreen, I have read pretty much every page of this thread....you have been more than kind with spreading your knowledge of the organics with all of us.
> 
> I have one question for you.
> 
> ...


.
TtumadDawg.... I discontinue any fertilizer teas, the last two weeks,,on eight week strains. During those last two weeks, it's just plain water only.
.
Hope this helps....
Keep it Real...Organic....
.
.


----------



## Forest of Cheem (Jun 19, 2009)

http://www.plantstogrow.com/Botany/Workshop_notes/Notes/Organic%20sources%20of%20NPK.pdf

Thought people might find this interesting and hopefully somewhat useful. It shows a whole list of organic substances and their NPK values. It also lists some important trace elements and gives organic sources for them as well.

*But be careful. Just use this as a guide for NPK. Some of these organic substances can have negative effects on a plant's growth due to their properties not listed. For example, while Wood ash is a great source of Potassium (potash), it can raise the pH drastically if used improperly. So do some research on the sources you intend to use.


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## Forest of Cheem (Jun 19, 2009)

Sorry. But I just found this site and think it is way more helpful than the one I previously listed. Check it out.

NPK Charts - Organic Fertilizers and Soil Amendments For Marijuana Cannabis Plants

Also, quick question. Does anyone here use _Mycorrhizae_? I know that BMO nutes contain it and I was wondering what the best way is to incorporate it into my soil. Should I add to tea or simply mix in with soil? BTW I am talking about the pellets.


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## fureelz (Jun 19, 2009)

Nice info everyone...


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## Ohsogreen (Jun 21, 2009)

Forest of Cheem said:


> Also, quick question. Does anyone here use _Mycorrhizae_? I know that BMO nutes contain it and I was wondering what the best way is to incorporate it into my soil. Should I add to tea or simply mix in with soil? BTW I am talking about the pellets.


.
Forrest of Cheem..... I do use them and love them. I use the SPT by BMO, in tea form. Since yours are already pelletized, they are meant to be directly mixed with soil.
.
The mcyo fungi do not become active, in either form, until they are stimulated by the chemical excretions of plant roots. So, they will just remain dormant, until plant roots get into range to jump start their life cycle.
.
Hope this helps....
Keep it Real......Organic....
.
.


----------



## plantsinpants (Jun 22, 2009)

Ohsogreen said:


> .
> SimpleSimon You bring up an excellent point. I got so busy typing about the different manures - I neglected the molasses.
> .
> Unsulphured Molasses is cheap, available at most grocery stores & is easy to use. You add one ounce to each gallon of unchlorinated water. This produces a NPK value of 5-1-3 on average. The keys are *unsulphured *molasses & *unchlorinated* water. This makes an excellent low grade, all natural fertilizer, feeds the micro-beaties (good bacteria & fungi) in your manure tea mixs & adds some trace minerals -which is an added bonus.
> ...


i have a pot brewing at the moment. but i think i didnt let the tap water sit long enough,,,( shit ) what will this change? ( having chlorine in the water


----------



## somebody041 (Jun 23, 2009)

plantsinpants said:


> i have a pot brewing at the moment. but i think i didnt let the tap water sit long enough,,,( shit ) what will this change? ( having chlorine in the water


may as well start over man chlorine will kill everything in there.


----------



## plantsinpants (Jun 23, 2009)

so what your saying is that the chlorine in my tap water is strong enough to sterilize 500ml of bat guano>>?? sorry but i think your wrong but thanks for trying to help!


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## Forest of Cheem (Jun 24, 2009)

plantsinpants said:


> so what your saying is that the chlorine in my tap water is strong enough to sterilize 500ml of bat guano>>?? sorry but i think your wrong but thanks for trying to help!


Agreed. The trace amounts of chlorine or chloramine will not sterilize bat guano's nutritional value. The only problem is that the chlorine in your water can kill off some of the micro-organisms that are generated by bubbling the tea. 

And the trace chlorine probably won't kill off the whole of the micro-beasties. BUT in the future it'd probably be a good idea to either let the water sit or find another source of clean H2O.


I keep South American dwarf cichlids in an aquarium so I know a bit about Chlorine and Chloramine. When you first "cycle" a tank (grow good bacteria/organisms) you use a de-chlorinator to treat the water. Water that hasn't been treated does hinder the growth of beneficial bacteria.

Good luck on the grow. That organic's gonna taste sweeeeet!


----------



## somebody041 (Jun 24, 2009)

plantsinpants said:


> so what your saying is that the chlorine in my tap water is strong enough to sterilize 500ml of bat guano>>?? sorry but i think your wrong but thanks for trying to help!


like forest of chemm said the tea will still have the npk and other nutritional values but won't do much to enhance or replenish your microherd. 

but hey man i'd love for you to check it under a microscope and report if you see any beasties.


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## plantsinpants (Jun 24, 2009)

Forest of Cheem said:


> Agreed. The trace amounts of chlorine or chloramine will not sterilize bat guano's nutritional value. The only problem is that the chlorine in your water can kill off some of the micro-organisms that are generated by bubbling the tea.
> 
> And the trace chlorine probably won't kill off the whole of the micro-beasties. BUT in the future it'd probably be a good idea to either let the water sit or find another source of clean H2O.
> 
> ...



thanks guy!!


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## Slab (Jul 1, 2009)

Hello Everybody,

I remember reading that adding water to a brew does not necessarily dilute its strength. 

Do I recall this correctly?


----------



## comystocky (Jul 1, 2009)

Slab said:


> Hello Everybody,
> 
> I remember reading that adding water to a brew does not necessarily dilute its strength.
> 
> Do I recall this correctly?


That's correct, 5 gallons of brewed compost tea can cover 10,000 square feet. It can be mixed with a hose sprayer - that's the only way you can really cover 10k square feet with only 5 gallons of tea. Now, you don't have to dilute it, but the tea is so rich (dense) with microbes that they will actually colonize the soil (and plant) at a lower density - and you will be 'wasting' tea/microbes.


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## canefan (Jul 1, 2009)

*Ohso, thanks for the great thread. I just read it and it is so nice to know that there are still some old die hards out here. I have been growing for 41 years now and have never been able to bring myself to use any chemicals. I have farmed organically all my life and raised my little girls the same way. I see some of these photos of the plants grown with the chems and think they look nice and have more bud than mine but I know mine taste better and they enjoyed their life more being natural. Thanks for the NPK breakdowns on the teas......we have a few different methods but the same ideas, Thanks again for the wonderful info and thread.*


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## Slab (Jul 2, 2009)

comystocky said:


> That's correct, 5 gallons of brewed compost tea can cover 10,000 square feet. It can be mixed with a hose sprayer - that's the only way you can really cover 10k square feet with only 5 gallons of tea. Now, you don't have to dilute it, but the tea is so rich (dense) with microbes that they will actually colonize the soil (and plant) at a lower density - and you will be 'wasting' tea/microbes.


 
Thank you Comystocky! Going to dilute 50/50 and see how my girls nourish.


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## Ohsogreen (Jul 3, 2009)

CaneFan... Glad to see I'm not the only old Coot on here. 
.
I've grown chem / hydro in the past and I'm not proud of having done so.
.
I converted to soil / organic growing about 12 years ago and have never considered going back. Soil has soul, chem / hydro does not. 
.
I also agree with you 100 % that organic bud tastes best...... 
.
Keep it Real...Organic....
.
.


----------



## Ohsogreen (Jul 3, 2009)

Slab... I ran across this site the other day and really like the info it has. You might like it also.
.
http://www.americanplant.net/Pages/PlantCareInfo/CompostTeaAppRates.html
.
Keep it Real....Organic.....
.
.


----------



## bossman88188 (Jul 3, 2009)

Nice site thanks ohso.


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## to serve man (Jul 3, 2009)

Is it okay to put crushed Dolomite Lime in with my teas? Will it harm the microbeasties?


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## DaveyDoom (Jul 3, 2009)

Most people add lime to the soil, not the tea.

Very nice thread, btw. I actually have access to elephant poop.


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## to serve man (Jul 3, 2009)

Yeah, but my ph is all out of wack and I need to add it as a dressing instead.


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## DaveyDoom (Jul 3, 2009)

I would just add it to plain water then, but I've heard of people adding it to tea.


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## Slab (Jul 4, 2009)

Ohsogreen said:


> Slab... I ran across this site the other day and really like the info it has. You might like it also.
> .
> http://www.americanplant.net/Pages/PlantCareInfo/CompostTeaAppRates.html
> .
> ...


I will concur, sweet site Ohsogreen 

I am undergoing a transformation, a gentle path. The high road you could say. I do have an urge to rub my compost tea in my buddys nose who grows in hydro though. ha. 
Thank you sincerely Oh So Green and my fellow Green growers. 

The founding Fathers ( the cool ones) would be very fond of these discussions.


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## canefan (Jul 4, 2009)

*To Serve, I don't know the ph of number of your soil and how out of whack it is but a quick fix I have found over the years is some hardwood ash.......quicker than lime, won't ever burn, but as the old saying goes a little bit goes a long way. I use about a tablespoon per gallon of container and then check the ph in a few days.......the wood ash is also great in the compost heap. Just my two cents hope it helps.*


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## canefan (Jul 4, 2009)

*Oh so thanks for the link to American Plant it is good reading.*


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## somebody041 (Jul 4, 2009)

canefan said:


> *To Serve, I don't know the ph of number of your soil and how out of whack it is but a quick fix I have found over the years is some hardwood ash.......quicker than lime, won't ever burn, but as the old saying goes a little bit goes a long way. I use about a tablespoon per gallon of container and then check the ph in a few days.......the wood ash is also great in the compost heap. Just my two cents hope it helps.*



thanks for the tip canefan! do you use hardwood ash instead of lime to address possible ph issues?


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## canefan (Jul 5, 2009)

*Somebody, I haven't used dolomite or lime in over 20 years, I live in rural area and have lots of fires keeping the farm clean. Just recycling what nature gave me and its free which is the best part. I spread wood ash on the all the fields, flowerbeds and yard. Great to have a smoke and sit around the campfire if you will. All soils being different in how they hold amendments, start out slow, watch your ph and enjoy. Today you need to save a dime were you can, you can use it to buy better genetics......lol.*


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## billdo (Jul 5, 2009)

I totally love brewing my own teas now... Thanks Ohso!

There is just something satisfying about making them. Maybe it is that it brings out the "mad scientist" in me.


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## to serve man (Jul 5, 2009)

Thanks for the advice canefan. I will see if I can get some woodash. Would garden centers carry it, or where would I have to go?


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## DaveyDoom (Jul 5, 2009)

I have a mixture of chicken and duck manure going right now in a 5 gallon bucket. Added the molasses and watch it foam up. I love micro-beasties. So do my maters.


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## farel2 (Jul 5, 2009)

Thanks for all the advice everyone!!!! I tried hydro and did not like it much. I am now gathering what i need to start my own tea and vermicompost bin. Though living in an apartment makes it limiting.

cane, Does any wood work well for this in particular?? After a fire can i collect the ash and use it??


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## canefan (Jul 6, 2009)

depending on where you live, try woods like oak, maple, ash, hickory. Do not use pine of any sort. Hope this helps and I think you will love the results, I know that it makes all my plants and grass green and happy.


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## plantsinpants (Jul 7, 2009)

Ohsogreen said:


> .
> Buffalosoulja... From week 1 until week 3 (only plain unchlorinated water). At week three, a regular strength dose of Super Plant Tonic. Then I wait two or three days and feed a low dose (grow tea). With an NPK range of 4-2-4 to 6-3-6.
> .
> After that, 1/2 strength SPT with plain water every week, feedings every two weeks. But the soil, I start in already has Organic fertilizers (compost, bunny manure or bat guano, & alfalfa meal) mixed in. That is why I feed lightly. I want the roots to spread out looking for food and water.
> ...


you have a book?? please elaborate


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## DaveyDoom (Jul 13, 2009)

Alfalfa has an approximate NPK of 2.5-.5-2. They sell 50 lb bags of alfalfa cubes (highly compressed extruded cubes) at my local feed store for around 15 bucks. I think I will try some tea with some.


----------



## DaveyDoom (Jul 13, 2009)




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## plantsinpants (Jul 14, 2009)

i have been expirementing with guano tea and compost tea this summer and i have to say everything is going better than i thought it would but theres always a litle part of me that thinks if i would have used mg theyd be even bigger ,, but then i think of how good it will feel to smoke some un-huminised bud! AMEN god bless the organic methods


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## Slab (Jul 14, 2009)

How much tea(bat quano, cow manure and molasses) would I need to introduce to a 5 gal bucket of unchlorinated water that is being aerated to colonize that water? 

Thanks for the help!


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## plantsinpants (Jul 14, 2009)

Slab said:


> How much tea(bat quano, cow manure and molasses) would I need to introduce to a 5 gal bucket of unchlorinated water that is being aerated to colonize that water?
> 
> Thanks for the help!



i do 1 tbs per gallon , i use bat guano!
and i try to ALWAYS have some worm castings, those are life savers!!! also at a 1tbs/gal of unchlorinated water!!! i mix at a rate of 2tbs/gal to make a concentrate, then i mix 1:1 with water

hope i didnt make that sound too confusing!!! if you need help shout me !!


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## plantsinpants (Jul 14, 2009)

if you have 3 diff manures than do 1/3 tbs/gal!!


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## grow space (Jul 14, 2009)

ok-iv been reading this thread and big thanx 4 useful info thread host.so i have this compost pile-i throw in thre all sorts of things, like:grass,potato shells,all kinds of water liquids,banana shells and so so may things as well-so im thinking can i take some of that compost and mix it with watre and let it stirr 4 a couple of days and then feed that tea to my plants????is it posiible-no animal manure is in there.



keep up the good organic work man....


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## plantsinpants (Jul 14, 2009)

good idea !!! but it would help a whole bunch if you went to your local pet store and got a 10$ air pump to aerate your brew!!

so get a air-pump & airstone : total 15$ max and you have yourselfe some excellent compost tea


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## grow space (Jul 14, 2009)

i dont think il do that but thanx 4 advice plantsinpants.il think il just mix it up hard with a big stick or something


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## Ohsogreen (Jul 14, 2009)

grow space said:


> i dont think il do that but thanx 4 advice plantsinpants.il think il just mix it up hard with a big stick or something


.
Grow Space.... You can get by without a air pump, but they do really improve a fertilizer tea.
.
Two clean 5 gallon buckets work well also. Just pour your mix from one to the other, twice daily for extra oxygen that keeps your tea sweet (aerobic).
.
Just a thought.....you get better mixing & oxygenating that way, use a big stick to keep your neighbors & wife in line.... LOL ....
.
Any amendment you add for nutrients, should be composted first, to ensure you get the most value out of it......
.
Hope this helps....
Keep it Real....Organic........
.
PS... Don't tell your wife I said that.........
.
.


----------



## bossman88188 (Jul 14, 2009)

grow space said:


> ok-iv been reading this thread and big thanx 4 useful info thread host.so i have this compost pile-i throw in thre all sorts of things, like:grass,potato shells,all kinds of water liquids,banana shells and so so may things as well-so im thinking can i take some of that compost and mix it with watre and let it stirr 4 a couple of days and then feed that tea to my plants????is it posiible-no animal manure is in there.
> 
> 
> 
> Keep up the good organic work man....


i would not use it on my girls.
Unless are sure of what went in there is ok.
No dairy,meats,and there are others that can make the mix.
Unstable. Just imo.
The air stone is a must. If you are going to make a tea.


----------



## Slab (Jul 14, 2009)

plantsinpants said:


> i do 1 tbs per gallon , i use bat guano!
> and i try to ALWAYS have some worm castings, those are life savers!!! also at a 1tbs/gal of unchlorinated water!!! i mix at a rate of 2tbs/gal to make a concentrate, then i mix 1:1 with water
> 
> hope i didnt make that sound too confusing!!! if you need help shout me !!


My tea is 

3 tbs per gal Bat Quano
3 Cups per gal Composted Cow Manure
5 tbs molasses.

I want to take a couple of quarts and inoculate my friends 5 gal of water so he start his own colony of "micobeasties" and then he can water down and use when he needs


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## somebody041 (Jul 15, 2009)

Slab said:


> My tea is
> 
> 3 tbs per gal Bat Quano
> 3 Cups per gal Composted Cow Manure
> ...



if he doesn't bubble it it will go anerobic


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## grow space (Jul 15, 2009)

Ohsogreen said:


> .
> Grow Space.... You can get by without a air pump, but they do really improve a fertilizer tea.
> .
> Two clean 5 gallon buckets work well also. Just pour your mix from one to the other, twice daily for extra oxygen that keeps your tea sweet (aerobic).
> ...




Hahaha-ok, will do.Thanx man.


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## Slab (Jul 22, 2009)

Just watered my 5 gallon pot with Guano, Cow Manure and Mollasses. the tea was a "nutty" brown. 
Gave her 2 liters and the run off was almost clear. crazy shite lol


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## swishatwista (Aug 1, 2009)

Hey ohso, or anybody else knowledgeable, i added half a cap full(about half a tsp) hydrogen peroxide to my tea, and iv noticed its already starting to smell foul after one day, so will that little bit of alcol kill off the good bacteria from my SPT and other elements of my tea?


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## Ohsogreen (Aug 1, 2009)

swishatwista said:


> Hey ohso, or anybody else knowledgeable, i added half a cap full(about half a tsp) hydrogen peroxide to my tea, and iv noticed its already starting to smell foul after one day, so will that little bit of alcol kill off the good bacteria from my SPT and other elements of my tea?


.
Swishatwista...... There is no alcohol in hydrogen peroxide, just excess oxygen in a liquid form. That tiny amount would kill very few micro-beasties. 
.
Adding hydrogen peroxide to teas will not keep them aerobic, it will just kill micro-beasties. 
.
The lack of disolved oxygen in your tea is causing the anerobic (anti-oxygen) micro-beasties to multiply, feeding on the good (aerobic) micro-beasties.
.
Aerobic is better, anerobic in not. Pour that tea into a compost pile and start over. Introducing large amounts of anerobic bacteria into your growing medium will work against you.
.
To keep your teas aerobic (sweet & wholesum), bubble them with a aquarium air pump or pour them bucket to bucket several times a day, to add oxygen.
.
Hope this helps.....
Keep it Real....Organic..... & Aerobic .....
.
.


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## shizzipoof (Aug 1, 2009)

Great write up! I live on a ranch with all the poop I need. Has anyone used Goat poop before?

-shizzi


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## NewGrowth (Aug 2, 2009)

Ohsogreen said:


> .
> Swishatwista...... There is no alcohol in hydrogen peroxide, just excess oxygen in a liquid form. That tiny amount would kill very few micro-beasties.
> .
> Adding hydrogen peroxide to teas will not keep them aerobic, it will just kill micro-beasties.
> ...


Osho I just wanted to say thanks for all your posts here on RIU. You are one of the reason's I have decided to go completely organic with my next grow. 

I had a bunch of mothers that I recently used compost tea on.

I used peruvian seabird guano, molasses and worm castings. Brewed for 24-48 hours. 

Here is a picture of one of them all organic . . .

Do you recycle soil as well? It seems like if you had a good system to compost old soil and then add back beneficials and fresh organic matter you could re-use soil over and over.


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## swishatwista (Aug 4, 2009)

alright i gotta get this cleared up once in for all cause this sway of information is killin me. I bubble my teas from the moment i mix up all the ingredients. Iv been using peruvian guano consisting of 10-10-2, as well as liquid kelp, molassas(concentrated stuff called heavy weight), SPT, worm castings, and the occasional dolimite lime, while always using tap water thats sat no less then 48 hours so its clorine free-also checked with the water department to make sure there's no chloramine.

Every time i brew this batch with the 10-10-2, it always turns to an unpleasant smell rather quickly, and after brewed for a couple days i have to keep "knocking" the bubbles back down that it creates in the bucket(while always bubbling), but when i would brew with a Nitrogen guano it wouldn't succumb to a foul smelling brew.

iv been using the 10-10-2 because iv been on the verge of flowering, was waiting on an a/c window unit. and will continue to use the 10-10-2 going into the flowering until the 3rd week when ill start to cut back on the Nitrogen. 

But my quetion is, why would my natual tea start to go sour on me? i have given no reason to start to become anerobic. to hit any possible angles on this problem, i use the same air stone each time but soak it, clean it, and then hook it up to the pump to get any water out. 

Ohso you said that the anerobic start to increase because of the lack of disolved oxygen but its always bubbling. The only factor that i can see is the increased number in nutes- 10-10-2, reacting with the SPT to produce alot of bioconversion with the SPT going to town with all the nutes. So im not sure whats the deal, but its really my only problem with my grow, and its kind of a big one so could you help me out and try to address it, thanks man


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## Ohsogreen (Aug 8, 2009)

swishatwista said:


> alright i gotta get this cleared up once in for all cause this sway of information is killin me. I bubble my teas from the moment i mix up all the ingredients. Iv been using peruvian guano consisting of 10-10-2, as well as liquid kelp, molassas(concentrated stuff called heavy weight), SPT, worm castings, and the occasional dolimite lime, while always using tap water thats sat no less then 48 hours so its clorine free-also checked with the water department to make sure there's no chloramine.
> 
> Every time i brew this batch with the 10-10-2, it always turns to an unpleasant smell rather quickly, and after brewed for a couple days i have to keep "knocking" the bubbles back down that it creates in the bucket(while always bubbling), but when i would brew with a Nitrogen guano it wouldn't succumb to a foul smelling brew.
> 
> ...


.
Swishatwista.... What "Grow Space" was talking about was making fertilizer tea without using a source of constant oxygen like an aquarium air pump. I told him, pouring his tea from bucket to bucket, several times a day would add oxygen and help keep his tea aerobic. This will work for several days, but after that, the anerobic bacteria will start to gain ground. Because as the micro-beasties increase in population, they will begin to exhaust (use up) the oxygen at a faster and faster rate. In his situation, not having an air pump, will allow this to happen faster.
.
*If you constantly bubble a tea, it will stay aerobic (sweet).* The longer you bubble (brew) it, the more it is broken down by the micro-beasties. If you use it in the first few days, say 24 hours to 72 hours of bubbling, I have always seen the best results.
.
I once bubbled a tea for an entire month and used it on just a few plants. They did not show any improvements over the other plants feed teas, bubbled only a few days. 
.
I later learned, what had happened was I allowed so many micro-beasties to reproduce that they actually consumed a large portion of the NPK in the mix. Did it get lost ? No, just converted. Later the dead bodies of the micro-beasties will either breakdown (freeing up the NPK from their bodies) or they will act as a food source for other micro-beasties (& get bioconverted - eaten & pooped out in a smaller / more soluble size). So, you don't really lose NPK, it just gets converted from one form to another.
.
Bubbling for long periods of time, say more than three days, tips the scales and causes more micro-beasties to be present in your tea. *Bubbling for 24 to 72 hours provides the best compromise / balance of NPK value & micro-beastie population.*
.
That being said, don't get hung up on smells. What smells fresh & earthy to one person, does not smell the same to another person. Especially with bat guanos, their odors do vary, based on what they ate in their diets, the age of the guano, how it was stored, moisture content...etc....
.
Hope this helps.....
Keep it Real....Organic...
.
.


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## plantsinpants (Aug 9, 2009)

hey everyone! im makin some guano tea and im done with the veg tea and moved on to the bloom tea, my question is about seabird guano , i have some that is from asia and its really moist, will moist guano desolve properly in a tea??
the NPK of the stuff is 9-27- .17 ( weird eh?? ),, anyways idk if the stuff is any good for tea??

anyone??


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## Slab (Aug 9, 2009)

I don't think those NPK values are correct you, not sure why you are "inventing" a new tea. Instruction in the FAq and in this thread on what is best for flowering.


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## swishatwista (Aug 9, 2009)

O ok, thanks for adressing my issue Ohso. Sorry to come off aggetated, its just i dont ahve internet so its really unproductive to not gain info from when i do make the trip to get on RIU. And it kind of scared me when you mentioned i could be feeding my plants potentially bad bacteria lol, still makes me un easy thinkin about it

That said i was still curious as to why my tea becomes sour, kind of foul smelly. I'm not sure why peole dont like the smell of SPT, smells like greatness to me, shit i even smell my soaking rotting compost, but i just dont feel right about the pungent smell of my tea. I know its the 10-10-2(peruvian i think) bat guano that gives it that smell but im not sure if its just the more potent guano will have that effect or if i got a bad batch of the guano, which i think is unlikely.


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## plantsinpants (Aug 9, 2009)

Slab said:


> I don't think those NPK values are correct you, not sure why you are "inventing" a new tea. Instruction in the FAq and in this thread on what is best for flowering.


woah!! easy on the sarcasm buddy! 

i didnt " invent" a new tea, i got the local versions of what i saw on the net,,,


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## Slab (Aug 9, 2009)

plantsinpants said:


> woah!! easy on the sarcasm buddy!
> 
> i didnt " invent" a new tea, i got the local versions of what i saw on the net,,,


 
Pardon me Plants for being overly harsh.


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## Ohsogreen (Aug 9, 2009)

plantsinpants said:


> hey everyone! im makin some guano tea and im done with the veg tea and moved on to the bloom tea, my question is about seabird guano , i have some that is from asia and its really moist, will moist guano desolve properly in a tea??
> the NPK of the stuff is 9-27- .17 ( weird eh?? ),, anyways idk if the stuff is any good for tea??
> 
> anyone??


.
PlantsinPants....... If the numbers on your High P Bat Guano are correct 9-27-.17 that's pretty strong. 
*I'd use it with caution.* 
.
The reason I say that is, the NPK numbers on any guano relfect the NPK that is immediately available (soluble in water). Often, with High P Bat Guano the total P is much higher. 
.
I use a 0-7-0, that is 7 % soluble P, with 14 % insoluble P that will breakdown overtime (usually 4 to 8 weeks) by bacterial action and weathering.
.
All High P Bat Guanos are alkaline (push pH upwards), so over application can push soil pH above 6.8, which starts to lock out Nitrogen. This will lead to premature loss of fan leaves (older / larger sugar factories). Lose too many fan leaves too soon and yeild goes down.
.
So, I'd start off low, mixing only 1 tsp of your guano per gallon of water. Give each plant 1/2 gallon, then slowly give them more volume at that strength.
.
I'd also check soil pH often. When it's near or at 7, start watering with pH adjusted water, in the range of 5 to 6.2, to help bring it down. Or use a very mild nitrogen fertilizer tea, made with bunny, bat (high N), cow or composted chicken manure. Since, these manures are acidic (lower pH).
.
Plus it helps to temporarily stop using your High P Bat Guano, until your soil pH is back in range (pH 6 to 6.8 is best).
.
Hope this helps...
Keep it Real....Organic.....
.
.


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## swishatwista (Aug 9, 2009)

Hey Ohso, reading that last post, iv been feeding my 6 month(still vegging) a guano of 10-10-2. It seems like my plant is happy and continuing to need the tea feeding every time, but will that P stay in my soil for 4 to 8 weeks and lock out N, or is my plant using all the P im giving it. I plan on flowering in a little over a week, about the same time that i give my next feeding. 

Which guano would you prefer to start my first week of flowering, i was thinking the 10-10-2 seeing as i want to still give it N but also help it kick into flowering with the 10% soluable P. Would this be correct or should i start off with more of a N tea?

Also, im wanting feed it a tea consisting of about 9-9-9, maybe a little higher, for the 3rd week. Will this be too much for the plant to handle and over dose on cal or lock anything out? 

Lastly, what do you think my 5th week NPK count would be, i have a high P guano, somewhere around 1-12-1. would that be sufficant for it? If it helps the plant is Blueberry, and is said to have an 8 week flowering period.

If you could anwswer my questions it'd appreciated, thanks Ohso


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## plantsinpants (Aug 10, 2009)

Slab said:


> Pardon me Plants for being overly harsh.





Ohsogreen said:


> .
> PlantsinPants....... If the numbers on your High P Bat Guano are correct 9-27-.17 that's pretty strong.
> *I'd use it with caution.*
> .
> ...


no sweat slab! and thank you AGAIN ohsogreen! x-nay on tea-tay!! gonna go check the Ph right away!! tutaloo


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## Green Cross (Aug 10, 2009)

swishatwista said:


> Hey Ohso, reading that last post, iv been feeding my 6 month(still vegging) a guano of 10-10-2. It seems like my plant is happy and continuing to need the tea feeding every time, but will that P stay in my soil for 4 to 8 weeks and lock out N, or is my plant using all the P im giving it. I plan on flowering in a little over a week, about the same time that i give my next feeding.
> 
> Which guano would you prefer to start my first week of flowering, i was thinking the 10-10-2 seeing as i want to still give it N but also help it kick into flowering with the 10% soluable P. Would this be correct or should i start off with more of a N tea?
> 
> ...


Cool thread! My plants love poop tea! 

P doesn't lock out N, but too much N in flower, can inhibit flowering. 10-10-2 is too much nitro for flowering 

I usually do a flush at the start of flower, and start 1-12-1 half strength at first, with some worm casings 1-0-0 in the soil - but you could just add some to the tea - its just enough N to keep the leaves from all turning yellow and falling off too soon. Then toward the end of flowering I starve the plant of nitrogen. 

I also add 1 TBLS molasses (per gallon) to my teas - to help feed the bacteria, as well as to add carbs. It's just easier to mix it all in a bucket and dip into it, at feeding time. GL


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## swishatwista (Aug 10, 2009)

I do just that, alright thanks Green Cross, ill cut back my N the first week of flowering


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## Ohsogreen (Aug 11, 2009)

swishatwista said:


> Hey Ohso, reading that last post, iv been feeding my 6 month(still vegging) a guano of 10-10-2. It seems like my plant is happy and continuing to need the tea feeding every time, but will that P stay in my soil for 4 to 8 weeks and lock out N, or is my plant using all the P im giving it. I plan on flowering in a little over a week, about the same time that i give my next feeding.
> .
> Swishatwista..... The P will not lock out N directly, what tends to happen with higher P ferts is they push pH up to 7 or above. The soil pH being that high (alkaline) is what locks out N.
> .
> ...


.
.
Keep it Real....Organic.....
.
.


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## donkeyote (Aug 13, 2009)

I've got 3 quick questions...

1. When i do a light feeding with just molasses and SPT, does it need to be bubbled and if so, then for how long?

2. When i get to the final weeks of flowering, is there an organic 'bloom booster' that needs to be applied, and if so , recommendations?

3. Is Gravity considered organic and if so, then what are some peoples results with it in a totally organic setting?


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## misty&mike (Aug 13, 2009)

i want to tell the tea guy how i make my tea and see what you think, if its bad for my plants this way, even though im gonna try some of the stuff you said. i use rabbit poop, about 2 3 inches at the bottom of a five gallon bucket, and then i add all the weeds i can mash down in the bucket. i let that sit for at least a week to ten days. then i pour that into gallon jugs. i add little of that to my water almost everytime i water. you said earth smell, mine can gag you. what do you think am i doing my plants wrong? also what you think of egg shell tea? thanks for any input, misty


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## bossman88188 (Aug 13, 2009)

misty&mike said:


> i want to tell the tea guy how i make my tea and see what you think, if its bad for my plants this way, even though im gonna try some of the stuff you said. i use rabbit poop, about 2 3 inches at the bottom of a five gallon bucket, and then i add all the weeds i can mash down in the bucket. i let that sit for at least a week to ten days. then i pour that into gallon jugs. i add little of that to my water almost everytime i water. you said earth smell, mine can gag you. what do you think am i doing my plants wrong? also what you think of egg shell tea? thanks for any input, misty


You need to read this thread again. And a few more.
Look up all threads started by ohsogreen. And you will learn what you need to know.
There are also many other great organic grower's on here.
But to me that tea sound's really bad.
weed's mashed in the bucket? Not good.


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## misty&mike (Aug 14, 2009)

the weeds have other nutes in them


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## NewGrowth (Aug 14, 2009)

donkeyote said:


> I've got 3 quick questions...
> 
> 1. When i do a light feeding with just molasses and SPT, does it need to be bubbled and if so, then for how long?
> 
> ...


I can't really answer you other questions but I am using Gravity now on some Satori's I'm growing organically. I applied it for the second time yesterday, after the first application the buds are growing kind of mutated but very dense.

Not sure about it yet but time will tell I guess.


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## bossman88188 (Aug 14, 2009)

misty&mike said:


> the weeds have other nutes in them


That is not how it work's IMO.
I would love to give you a full explanation but it would take a long time.
All the info you need is on here.
Just take the time to search for it.
The weeds in the bucket really is not good.
Anything like that must be composted first.


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## Ohsogreen (Aug 15, 2009)

donkeyote said:


> I've got 3 quick questions...
> 
> 1. When i do a light feeding with just molasses and SPT, does it need to be bubbled and if so, then for how long?
> .
> ...


.
I'm not sure about wheter it is organic or not, I have never used it. I've seen it seriously F' up numerous grows by my hydro friends. Seems it's like playing with d-y-n-o-mite.
.
The best way to get maximum buddage: feed & water, low, slow & steady. Overfeeding & Overwatering, are responsible for more loss of yield than anything else.
.
Hope this helps....
Keep it Real....Organic......
.
.
Pss... Products claiming massive increases in buddage, deliver more promises than results. Stick with the basics........
.


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## Ohsogreen (Aug 15, 2009)

misty&mike said:


> i want to tell the tea guy how i make my tea and see what you think, if its bad for my plants this way, even though im gonna try some of the stuff you said. i use rabbit poop, about 2 3 inches at the bottom of a five gallon bucket, and then i add all the weeds i can mash down in the bucket. i let that sit for at least a week to ten days. then i pour that into gallon jugs. i add little of that to my water almost everytime i water. you said earth smell, mine can gag you. what do you think am i doing my plants wrong? also what you think of egg shell tea? thanks for any input, misty


.
Misty&Mike..... Using the bunny poop in your tea is fine (a couple of cups per gallon of water is best). Leave the weeds out (compost them instead). 
.
Also, you need to add oxygen to your tea, either using a small aquarium air pump, or by pouring it from bucket to bucket, twice daily.
.
If you use an air pump, bubble it for 24 to 72 hours for best results. You can bubble it longer, but there is no real advantage to doing so.
.
If using the bucket to bucket method. After the third day, use it immediately. The number of micro-beasties in the mix will great enough by the end of the third day, that they will begin to use up the oxygen in the mix, much faster. Possibly leading to an anaerobic condition (souring tea).
.
Hope this helps.......
Keep it Real....Organic....
.
.


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## Ohsogreen (Aug 15, 2009)

misty&mike said:


> the weeds have other nutes in them


.
Misty&Mike.....  That is true, but composting them is best. The nutes in the weeds are locked in the plant fiber. They will only be released by bacterial action or weathering (composting is a combo of both actions).
.
Letting them sit in water with your bunny poop is actually removing Nitrogen from the mix. Part of the N is being locked up by the weeds themselves. 
.
Use the bunny poop for your tea, compost the weeds. It's a win / win situation, when done that way.
.
Hope this helps....
Keep it Real....Organic.....
.
.


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## Ohsogreen (Sep 7, 2009)

Let's recycle this old thread. Teas are cheap, effective ways to feed Mary without breaking the bank.
.
Hope this helps someone...
Keep it Real....Organic.....
.
.


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## canefan (Sep 8, 2009)

Ohsogreen said:


> Let's recycle this old thread. Teas are cheap, effective ways to feed Mary without breaking the bank.
> .
> Hope this helps someone...
> Keep it Real....Organic.....
> ...


Oh So glad to see up back and posting again. I certainly hope that you are feeling better.


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## Ohsogreen (Sep 10, 2009)

canefan said:


> Oh So glad to see up back and posting again. I certainly hope that you are feeling better.


.
Thanks Canefan...... I am feeling much better since the surgery. 
.


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## kronic1989 (Sep 11, 2009)

Hello OhsoGreen. I have been reading through multiple pages of your organics knowledge. After about 25 pages. I decided I would ask you instead of trying to find the answers I was looking for. I just have a few quick questions.

I am all for organics. You cant beat the taste or texture of it! trees were born on july 1st, picked up some Botanicare Pure Blend PRO GROW 3-2-4(premium natural and organic plant food). Started applyign this 2.5 weeks into life(every watering,except a few). at week 5.5weeks I changed the cycle to 12-12.
-Is this fert okay? am i applying it to often? I am almost sure it is not considered chems, (thats what the guy told me anyways)

Also I am growing in pro-mix(soilless i geuss). Since flowering has started i picked up Botanicare Pure Blend Pro Bloom 2.5-2.5 premium organic plant food. I have been applying the food to the water for almost every watering(skipping some here and there or diluting it more). 
-Again. this fert is okay correct? certified to ohsogreens requirements? Everything seems to be going okay. The flowers are looking nice. I just want to make sure this is enough for maximum potential of the stargazer strain. 

I am considering going to the store to get molasses. It seems like it could really benefit my beauties.

Would this be okay ?

30ml of nuters added to 1 gal of water(15 ml less than recommended)
then add about 7-14 ml of molasses directly to the water. mix for about 10 mins to mix the molasses around then go on to feeding?

This is just what i think i should do from where i am right now. Anyone else who has better idea of where im headed your input would be greatly appreciated.

so they have about 30 days left in flowering. they're 6 feet tall. I was going to buy cal mag to resolve some bronzing spotting on some leaves but it has slowed down. doesnt pose a threat right now. thanks for your time  

sorry for the sloppy arrangement of statements and questions. Momma always told me to put the bong down.


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## kronic1989 (Sep 11, 2009)

Any input would be appreciated


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## Ohsogreen (Sep 12, 2009)

Kronic1989.... Botanicare PBP nutes are organic and well made. The fact that your plant looks healthy, is growing steadily and putting on flowers, means you are feeding properly.
.
Since the Pro-mix (original mix) is a sterile medium (devoid of life), using unsulphured molasses would not benefit your plant. It's the bacteria and fungi in the soil that breakdown amendments like molasses. Without them, the molasses would just gum up the works, since there is nothing in the medium to break it down and release the trace minerals and NPK.
.
Now, if you are using the Pro-mix BX with added beneficial bacteria & fungi, then using the molasses would provide some benefits. 
.
Since you have not used molasses with this plant before, I'd start out with 1 teaspoon (5 ml) per gallon of unchlorinated water, then slowly increase in small increments of 1/2 to 1 teaspoon. I generally discontinure use of anything the last two weeks, except unchlorinated water. 
.
Some people freak when they see the fan leaves turning yellow and falling off those last two weeks. Not me, I like to see this. It let's me know for sure, the plant has used up the majority of N in the soil and is in full ripening (aka-finishing) mode. By letting it strip out the NPK from those fan leaves, you are ensuring that no fertilizer buildup has occurred, which can make plants burn harsh and taste nasty. 
.
Hope this helps....
Keep it Real...Organic....
.
.


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## Corwin (Sep 14, 2009)

Thanks Ohso for the great thread! 

I have just read through the forum and found it a great start to me considering making the change to organics with mary. 
I have always tried to do so outside and never use chem pesticides or ferts in my yard.
This sounds like it could be more economical than all the money I have been giving Canna . 
I will have to do a grow and see with my strain and see how it compares.

A product I have not seen you guys talk about is Yucca extract or juice.
It is a bio stimulant that would be my guess for one of the main ingredients in products like SPT. 
Along with kelp and microbes.

Another item I thought might help make it more user friendly for me at least is a way to kind of get a handle on the NPK of a particular blend of ingredients.
A calculator like all the big chem fert. companies have online. 
At first I thought I should keep my mouth shut on that one for fear of sounding like I was volunteering. 
Then I did a search online and found one.
It should give us a place to start and it can keep track of cost and NPK.
It is based on excel 2003 so you will need that, or later, or something that can open it.

http://smallfarms.oregonstate.edu/organic-fertilizer-calculator


Enjoy


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## Ohsogreen (Oct 24, 2009)

Bump.... Glad to know this old thread is still proving to be helpful....
.
.


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## mv400 (Oct 24, 2009)

I have been reading this thread, not all but some and I must say it is such a wonderful thing you are doing, sharing your knowledge with noobs like myself  About useful bacteria and fungi, I wonder why peeps don't use organic humic acid/fulvic acid mix. I have been reading about these acids and must say their effect on soil is amazing. They trigger useful bacteria creation, not to mention adjust soil pH by breaking down salts or alkalies. Oh and they enable us to reuse our soil. I recently started to grow and added that mix to my water and things are going pretty well *knocking on wood *. Just add you plant water in every 15 days and let them enable balanced nutrient uptake. Oh, they are cheap too


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## mv400 (Oct 25, 2009)

OhSoGreen... I read that you have your own worm bin. I was thinking about putting 3-4 worms to soil for each plant, but having a bin is a good idea too. I have soem questions, do you just use soil for their home or add some other things? My other question would be about your bin design and how you gather the worm poops? Any info on this would be much appreciated


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## Ohsogreen (Oct 28, 2009)

mv400 said:


> OhSoGreen... I read that you have your own worm bin. I was thinking about putting 3-4 worms to soil for each plant, but having a bin is a good idea too. I have soem questions, do you just use soil for their home or add some other things? My other question would be about your bin design and how you gather the worm poops? Any info on this would be much appreciated


.
Mv400..... The answers to all your questions are on worms can be found on this site : http://urbanext.illinois.edu/worms/
.
If you place worms in each pot, they usually crawl out and die on the floor. They don't like the frequent waterings / feedings Mary gets.
.
If you are growing outside in the ground, adding a handful of worms to each planting hole along with some organic goodies like well aged compost, alfalfa meal, composted cow manunure, rabbit manure or bat guano is a win / win situation.
.
Hope this helps....
Keep it Real....Organic.....
.
.


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## mv400 (Oct 29, 2009)

thanks for the input


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## drewbear (Nov 3, 2009)

The explanation about worm castings is invaluable. Always avoided it because of that whole debate of less vs more. LESS=assholes, bullies (intellectual and physical) ignorance. MORE= educators, friends, love. You would be under the "educator" tag. Again thanks for that bit about the worm castings.

I also have avoided most manures for feer of pharma poisoning. If the water tables are full of it because we and the cows and the chickens vacuate it then I do not really want it in my herb. I don't know if people consider that fact when making their teas but they certainly should. 

Something I have always wondered was if companies such as earth juice or Blue Mountain source their manures from organic farms. If someone could provide feedback on that it would be appreciated.

Something I learned from my days working at a commercial greenhouse (mostly annuals/perennials- the stuff people buy every year for their yards) was that cheap (quality not price) BLOODMEAL CAN BE EXCEPTIONALLY TOXIC.


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## georgi345 (Nov 3, 2009)

drewbear said:


> BLOODMEAL CAN BE EXCEPTIONALLY TOXIC.


do you mean that it carries specific toxins or just that it is/can be exceptionally hot due to high concentrations of N?


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## robert 14617 (Nov 3, 2009)

a scoop of compost that is nice worm and active helps too


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## Grassmeister (Nov 10, 2009)

Excellent thread!

Just got about half way through then jumped to the end. I noticed while reading that almost all questions/answers are related to growing regular strains. But I am more interested in Auto-flowering strains and wonder how this all applies to them. The thing with AFs is that they have almost no veg stage. So basically, a good organic soil mix (considering 30%Perlite, 30% Peat Moss, 40% Compost) would take them all the way into flowering (2-3 weeks) before starting with tea feedings, and then only high P and K. Would that be OK?


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## Grassmeister (Nov 10, 2009)

overfiend said:


> just thought i'd add a little to this list i've also used teas i make from seaWEED. being from the ocean state its something i can get free any day of the week.
> i wash the seaweed good before adding it to the tea to remove most of the extra salt . this stuff is full of all kinds of micronutrients i also add a few trashbags full of seaweed to my compost pile


Hey, I live by the sea too. And I have considered using SEAWEED as tea or directly in the soil mix. But I heard that not all seaweed is good for this. Can you name any species or post pics. Also, I want to know how to make seaweed juice. 

Anybody?


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## plaguedog (Nov 12, 2009)

Grassmeister said:


> Hey, I live by the sea too. And I have considered using SEAWEED as tea or directly in the soil mix. But I heard that not all seaweed is good for this. Can you name any species or post pics. Also, I want to know how to make seaweed juice.
> 
> Anybody?


Well I just use maxicrop, but I have heard of people harvesting kelp (seaweed). You have to wash it very thoroughly because it's full of salts from the water. After it is washed you need to let it dry and crush it up into a powder. I'm sure if you search around a little more you will find someone that has directions.


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## LogHead (Nov 14, 2009)

Hey OhSoGreen i just am stopping by to say this is a great thread

i have a question if you have time, how would you apply the guano teas in conjunction with say a liquid organic line? (such as bmo or earth juice.they're the only ones i can think of quick here) you don't use alot of liquid bottled products personally i found out by reading the first few posts, but what do you think would be a good feeding to follow? every week watering and every 2 weeks feeding is my thoughts. switch between the teas and bottled organics for feedings. what do you think?


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## Ohsogreen (Nov 14, 2009)

LogHead said:


> Hey OhSoGreen i just am stopping by to say this is a great thread
> 
> i have a question if you have time, how would you apply the guano teas in conjunction with say a liquid organic line? (such as bmo or earth juice.they're the only ones i can think of quick here) you don't use alot of liquid bottled products personally i found out by reading the first few posts, but what do you think would be a good feeding to follow? every week watering and every 2 weeks feeding is my thoughts. switch between the teas and bottled organics for feedings. what do you think?


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LogHead... I have the time. If you want to use both dry & liquid bottled ferts, that is not a problem. Both have advantages and can work well together.
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I think making a weak guano tea (1 tsp of higher N bat guano per gallon of water) and feeding it to your plants when they are two weeks old is a great way to introduce valuable microbes. Feed in the range of 15 to 20 % of soil volume. Example: If you have them in 16 oz cups, only feed them 2 or 3 oz's of your tea, only when the soil is semi-dry.
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After that, wait 5 to 7 days and use the liquid bottled products mentioned, following the instructions of the label. 
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Later, when you see preflowers, drop the bottled liquid grow fertilizer and make a weak guano tea (using 1.5 tsp of higher N bat guano and 1 tsp of higher P bat guano per gallon of water). Feed in the range of 20 % of soil volume. 
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Do not feed any other nutes for 7 days. Allowing a lot of the N to be used up, helps in the transistion to flowering. If you look at products by AN for example. The ones used at the begining of flowering have no N. Then later, N is added. 
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The guano tea you made will provide just enough N to help keep them green, without being too much. The higher P guano in that tea, will help jump start the flower process and level out the pH of the tea.
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Then on the 8th day (I don't count preflowering as a flower week), feed using only the bloom fertilizer. 4 days later, mix a small amount of the grow fertilizer and with the bloom fertilizer and feed. The ratio should be in the range of 1 (grow) to 3 (bloom) Example 5 to 7.5 ml of Grow It Green to 15 to 22 ml of Flower Power per gallon of water.
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Then over the next three weeks slowly increase, each fert in teaspoon increments. At week 6 of flowering, cut the ferts and use water only. Maybe with some added Cal-Mag (used as per the label) if you notice any issues with spotty leaves, or premature fading.
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The last week, nothing but water, only water.
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The fan leaves will yellow, fade and may drop. This is not a problem. This ensures Mary has used up all the N in the soil, and is drawing the last of her extra reserves from herself. This also ensures she is using up all the extra P she has banked in herself (this reduces harshness in the smoke and helps improve flavor). 
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Hope this helps......
Keep it Real....Organic......
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## Rtoke (Aug 16, 2010)

Question;

even if i have sheep shit in the soil mix can i still get a bucket with water and put some shit in, give it a stir and water the next day without bubbling it??

thanks !


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## canefan (Aug 17, 2010)

You might be alright but if you have the time then at least take some of the tea and pour it back and forth into another bucket to get some oxygen put into the water. I hope this helps in the absence of Ohsogreen.


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## canefan (Aug 17, 2010)

You might be alright but if you have the time then at least take some of the tea and pour it back and forth into another bucket to get some oxygen put into the water. I hope this helps in the absence of Ohsogreen.


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## mr.mike (Aug 17, 2010)

great thread thanks tons of info. ive been all organic in this grow now with no ill effects but ive been driving blindly, maybe you can fill me in a bit. ive been making my own teas with leftover fruit/veggie scraps and fish tank waste water. i try to balance the mix out and use different scraps every time and now that im in flower i try to use more banana for the potassium but i still have tomato onion grape and a few others in the mix. i boil everything at the end of the week, strain, let cool and mix with the fish water. any thoughts on that? ive also just started (2x last 4 watering) using snail poop in the mix is that like worm poo?

View attachment 1103327 i have to be doing something right i just dont know what it is... thanks for any input


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## canefan (Aug 17, 2010)

Mr. Mike now that you are in flower are you using any molasses? Great product, is not only good for the plant it is great for your soil. Being organic and using your teas you have lots of micro organisms in the soil and the molassess will help to feed them, add sugar to the plant for better overall health. As far as boiling the water I don't truly know the answer for that but to me persoanlly I would think that you are killing most of the good things you are trying to add to your soil and plant. I would be more inclined to put this mix in a big container and put the aerator to it, strain and use. I do use scraps (veggies, fruits, eggs shells and a few coffee grinds) as top dressing if the soil has been in the container for a long while. I do this because I have so many earthworms living in the containers I am just keeping food for them. Snail poop? never used it but would think it has its benefits for sure. I brew up horse manure mainly in a 20 gallon drum about 1 pound dried weight and put the air pump to it with a little molasses in there. That, molassess and I add woodash once a month in the waterings, is the sole nutes my plants get during their grow. 
I know I am not the most conventional of growers but these methods have worked for me and I hope that it gives you something to consider. Happy Growing and always ready to help as I can.


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## mr.mike (Aug 17, 2010)

thanks man, i dont know where to get molasses in italy yet and i wouldnt be able to read it to see if its the right kind. i figured the sugars from the fruits would be enough, i use alot. i dont boil the fish water i know thats full of awesomeness, just the kitchen mix to break everything down. after its strained and cooled i mix it with the fish waste. i dont think there is much alive in the kitchen mix it doesnt even have a chance to decompose. i do take the mush after i strain and toss it in my compost pile though. the snail poo...idk i have a small 3 gal tank on my balcony and it sits in the sun and grows algae all over the place, i take the unwanted snails from my fishtanks as i find them and toss em in there. they eat the algae and about once every other week ill dump the water and replace with clean water to keep mosquito from laying eggs in it, i strain the water with a fine net and im left with 4-6 tablespoons of fresh snail poo. i toss it in with the mix and water my plant. it all works i just dont know why and i dont know where i can get any other free poo


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## Rtoke (Aug 19, 2010)

Hi

I have a big compost heap of food scraps and plant material it just a big goey mess at the moment, do you think i could make a tea out of it ???

Thanks

R


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## mr.mike (Aug 19, 2010)

Rtoke said:


> Hi
> 
> I have a big compost heap of food scraps and plant material it just a big goey mess at the moment, do you think i could make a tea out of it ???
> 
> ...


yes you should, then return the pulp to the compost...i have not had an issue yet. just cause its free doesnt mean its not good


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## Rtoke (Aug 19, 2010)

Cheers mate ill give it a try. i also got liquid seaweed seasol too


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## Rtoke (Aug 19, 2010)

Hi
me again !

I'm thinking bout making tea for veg with blood and bone and worm castings then for flower worm castings and sheep manure ??

wrapping the ingredients in a sock or some thing like a tea bag !? aha

would this work and how much ingredients should i use per litre ??

thanks a million

R


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## chris88813 (Apr 5, 2011)

Ohsogreen,
thanks to you and all the others for getting people to go organic. I am leaning that way and have a few questions when you have a chance...
1. what size air pump do you use? i heard i want min 59 liters/min-?
2. if there is a problem with nitrates in fish emulsion when you foliar feed, should i just make a batch of CT without fish emulsion so i can foliar feed?
3. have you or anyone here ever used organic mushroom compost in CT?
4. finally, i have heard that certain sprayers will break up or even kill the microbes when foliar feeding (like the 90 degree sprayers, etc.) - is this true?

thanks so much! Wanting to keep it organic...


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## stlbluesfan (Jun 20, 2011)

Great thread. I was on the fence before wether I wanted to go through the effort of adding nutes and ferts but I'm convinced now, I'm making some tea tomorrow


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## canefan (Jun 21, 2011)

chris88813 said:


> Ohsogreen,
> thanks to you and all the others for getting people to go organic. I am leaning that way and have a few questions when you have a chance...
> 1. what size air pump do you use? i heard i want min 59 liters/min-?
> 2. if there is a problem with nitrates in fish emulsion when you foliar feed, should i just make a batch of CT without fish emulsion so i can foliar feed?
> ...


 I am sure Ohsogreen would be happy to read this, he was a great man with a love for our treasured plants and growing them organically and the least amount of fuss possible, hence on of his favorite sayings "keep it simple".
You air pump is going to depend on the size of bucket you are going to aerate, you want to make sure that it is suitable for the size, bigger is better than too small. If you have a 20 liter bucket to brew you at least 20 liters per minute.
Fish emulsion - what a wonderful additive for your plants both in the soil and foliar feeding. I personally use it once a week to foliar feed and use it as needed in the soil when I water. You can safely use in the soil watering and still foliar feed in the same week. Fish is also great in flower when you need the bump of nitrogen and don't want to over do and still be able to keep what you are for blooming.
Mushroom compost is great stuff and from talking with Ohsogreen I know that he has used it and have seen him recommend it, I only wish that I could get that stuff here in Costa Rica.
As far as a mister killing microbes? I don't think it could possibly kill all of them if any. I am certainly no expert in this area but I don't see how it would hurt more than a small portion of them.

Good Luck in your grow and thanks for keeping it organic


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## tyson53 (Jun 21, 2011)

I make teas always for ferts....cheaper and works great....

1 cup of alfalfa pellets
1 cup of wormcastings
4 oz of molasses
3 oz of liquid kelp
2 oz of fish emulsion
1/2 cup of ocean forest for the myco starter

brew for 24-48 hour until foamy

I water plants with this every 5 days....second watering I cut it 60/40 40 is the water....

my compost is close to done so that will be added next time I brew....

also I do use some organic nutes but just every 2 weeks 1/2 strength is all....

Al


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## Bargar (Oct 27, 2011)

I searched the post for zoo doo (Only picked up the mention of it on the first page) because I was gifted some a while back and want to put it to use.

How much of this product (Composted elephant dung) should I use in my tea? Or, is it a bad idea to use this product in my tea?


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## malignant (Oct 28, 2011)

tyson53 said:


> I make teas always for ferts....cheaper and works great....
> 
> 1 cup of alfalfa pellets
> 1 cup of wormcastings
> ...


how much water are you brewing with?


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## TheTruSmokr (Jan 22, 2012)

Thanks for the info everybody. Peace and Harmony


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## Kind Sir (Nov 9, 2015)

While I read on recipes for teas, I wanted to ask. I have "Purple cow compost", EWC, Peruvian seabird guano
Afalfa meal
Kelp meal
Fish bone meal
Oyster shell flour
Crab shell meal

I was going to just get some ratios, and put it in my bucket with my air stone for now.


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## camaro630hp (Nov 29, 2015)

Glad this thread is still going. Thanks to all


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## PopTop (Dec 30, 2015)

Ohso great thread ! I have brewed both compost and EWC tea separately not together: 1 gal well water 1 cup EWC or 1 cup compost 1/2 tbsp. BSM bubbled for 30 hours in a 5 gal bucket with aquarium air pump and 4 air stones 2- 6" and 2- 1" barrel stones but I'm not smelling that earthy or sweet smell from my teas am I doing something wrong ? +Reps


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