# SOG Grow Room Op



## SOG (Nov 17, 2008)

*Attn: Thread cleanup!!!* 

*locking Thread 
Moving all discussions to here
keeping journal and discussion apart
*

I'm shifting few things around,
also there are a few changes I'm implementing
most of the material i posted here will remain viewable publicly!
some material i publish here, will be viewable to my contact and friend only!!!

ill try to maintain the journal as I'm going along the room setup and grow process

I'm planing a "Quad SOG/SCroG" combo where clones will go directly to  12/12 photo period in the flowering room 
but will also get to flower and bud a bit longer 


now this is where my "Quad" twist/technique comes into play, 
i will be doing some clipping in the early veg stage clipping the main steam
which ill cause the plant to grow 4 full main steams instead of one 



*Pruning Styles*





*DR300 flower room plan*
12 week flowering cycle with a 2 week 12-site FIFO harvest cycle





*Aero/NFT Design Ideas*


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## SOG (Nov 17, 2008)

*Equipment list*








DR300 *9 x 9 x 7 Grow Tent* by Secret Jardin
DR240 *7'10" x 7'10" x 6'7" Grow Tent* by Secret Jardin
IntelliClimate* Intelligent Growroom Climate Controller* by Autogrow Systems
IntelliClimate *CO2 Sensor* by Autogrow Systems
IntelliDose* Intelligent Hydroponic Doser* by Autogrow Systems
Silver White Lightite *100ft x 4ft Sheet *by Easy Grow
Big Blue *12" Ozone Gen. 5 x UV bulbs *by Blue Air Products
48 Gallon *Stand-Up Reservoir* by Sunlight Supply 
Merlin Garden Pro *Reverse Osmosis System* by Hydro Logic
Tall Blue *Merlin Garden Pro Pre-Filter* by Hydro Logic
FlowMaster *Flow Meter* by Hydro Logic
Inline TDS Monitor* Industrial Dual TDS Monitor for Merlin GP* by Hydro Logic
iGS-070 *Manual Plug-in Variable Speed Control* by Plug N Grow
MDT-1 *Master Digital Timer* by Sentinel 
PXM-1 *15 [email protected] Trigger, Nema 5-15 Receptacles *by Sentinel 
PXM-2 *15 [email protected] Trigger, Nema 6-15 Receptacles* by Sentinel 
HPH-4 *30 [email protected] Trigger, Universal Receptacles *by Sentinel 
CO2-REG *CO2 Regulator* by Sentinel 
Adjust-A-Wing Large *Reflector* by Adjust-A-Wing
SSP. L *1000w HPS Super Spreader* by Adjust-A-Wing
SSP. H *1000w Halide Super Spreader* by Adjust-A-Wing
Sun Tube 8 *Reflector* by Sunlight Supply 
Sun Blaze *T5 4FT Fluorescent Strip Light* by Sunlight Supply 
New Wave *T5 28 System - 2' x 8 Bulbs* by Sunlight Supply 
1000w 240v *Digital Ballast* by Lumatek
LU1000B/HTL/EN* Hortilux Super HPS EN 145,000 Lumens* by EYE Hortilux
LU1000MH/HTL/EN* Hortilux BLUE 80,000 Lumens* by EYE Hortilux
Blue *T5 HO 2' 6500k* by Sylvania
Pentron Green *T5 HO 4'* by Sylvania
Max-Fan 8" *Inline Fan* by Can Filters
Max-Fan 10" *Inline Fan* by Can Filters
8" Normally Closed Damper by ZoneMaster 
10" Normally Closed Damper by ZoneMaster
633GPH *Submersible Pump* by ECO Plus
396GPH *Submersible Pump* by ECO Plus
ECO Air 4 *Four Outlets Air Pumps* by ECO Plus
ECO Air 8 *Eight Outlets Air Pumps* by ECO Plus



  
   
     
      
    
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## SOG (Nov 17, 2008)

*Useful Threads:*

* 
 **Get a harvest every 2 weeks!!! *- by* Al B. Fuct*



















*Harvest a pound every three weeks!!! *- by *StinkBud*











YaK said:


> Oh, one more very important aspect I forgot to mention,
> is *preventative maintenance on pests!*
> I started with seeds way back when, and did not have any pest problems.
> Decided to go with dispensary clones for variety and ease, and have had pest problems ever since,
> ...





*Grow Diary, compliments of Dr. Brutus*


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## SOG (Nov 18, 2008)

*Growers Hydroponics Dictionary*​ 
- *A* -

*ACID* &#8211; an acidic solution has a pH below 7
*AERATION* &#8211; directly supplying roots and grow medium with air or oxygen
*ALGAE* &#8211; any of various chiefly aquatic, eukaryotic, photosynthetic organisms, ranging in size from single-celled forms to the giant kelp
*ALKALINE* &#8211; a term describing a grow medium or nutrient solution with a high pH (over 7)
*AMPERE* (AMP) &#8211; this is the unit used to measure strength of an electric current

- *B* -

*BACTERIA* &#8211; any of the unicellular prokaryotic microorganisms of the class Schizomycetes, which vary in terms of morphology, oxygen and nutritional requirements, and motility, and may be free-living, saprophytic, or pathogenic in plants or animals
*BALLAST* &#8211; a device used to regulate flow of electricity to match the needs of a specific bulb
*BLOOM* &#8211; (1) the flower of a plant (2) the action of a plant&#8217;s flower reaching maturity
*BLOSSOM BOOSTER* &#8211; a fertilizer with a high phosphorous rating which increases flower yield
*BOLT* &#8211; a plant which has gone to seed prematurely
*BUD* &#8211; a small protuberance on a stem or branch, sometimes enclosed in protective scales and containing an undeveloped shoot, leaf, or flower
*BURN* &#8211; leaf tips which turn noticeably dark from excess fertilizers or salts

- *C* -

*CANOPY *&#8211; the uppermost reaches of your crop; those leaves most readily available to the light source
*CARBON DIOXIDE (CO2)* &#8211; a colourless, odourless, tasteless gas in the air necessary for plant life. It occurs naturally in the atmosphere at .03%
*CELL DIVISION* &#8211; The process by which a cell divides to form two daughter cells. Upon completion of the process, each daughter cell contains the same genetic material as the original cell and roughly half of its cytoplasm
*CHITIN* &#8211; a tough, protective, semitransparent substance, primarily a nitrogen-containing polysaccharide, forming the principal component of arthropod exoskeletons and the cell walls of certain fungi
*CHLOROSIS* &#8211; a sick plant displaying yellowing leaves due to a sub standard chlorophyll process; commonly caused by nutrient deficiency or imbalanced pH
*CLONE* &#8211; a plant which has been produced through asexual reproduction (i.e. &#8211; cuttings, layerings, and tissue culture)
*CONDITIONING* &#8211; the method used to bring an inert growing medium to optimum pH levels, such as soaking new rockwool in an acidic solution to lower the pH from 8.0 to 5.5
*COTYLEDON* &#8211; a leaf of the embryo of a seed plant, which upon germination either remains in the seed or emerges, enlarges, and becomes green. Also called seed leaf
*CULTIVATION* &#8211; the act of processing the fruit of a mature plant
*CYTOKININ* &#8211; any of a class of plant hormones that promote cell division and growth and delay the senescence of leaves

- *D* -

*DAMPING OFF FUNGUS* &#8211; disease which attacks young seedlings and cuttings causing them to rot at the base. This is generally caused by over watering.
*DISSOLVED SOLIDS* &#8211; the amount of dissolved solids, usually fertilizer salts, that are measured in parts per million
*DRIP SYSTEM* &#8211; an efficient water delivery system which employs a plumbed main hose filtering nutrient through various drip emitters, one drop at a time.

- *E* -

*ELECTRICAL CONDUCTIVITY* &#8211; the ability of a solution to carry electrical energy as a result of the elements and compounds in the solution

- *F* -

*FERTILIZER* &#8211; see nutrient
*FLOOD TABLE* &#8211; a large flat, walled basin used to hold and support grow medium and plants. Nutrient is then flooded into the basin at regular intervals
*FOLIAR FEEDING* &#8211; using a mister or spray bottle to deliver fertilizer solution directly to the foliage
*FUNGICIDE* &#8211; a product which destroys or inhibits fungus
*FUNGUS GNATS* &#8211; minute, blackish, gregarious flies destructive to mushrooms and seedlings

- *G *-

*GERMINATION* &#8211; the process of causing the initiation of a plant from seed
*GRAFTING* &#8211;uniting (a shoot or bud) with a growing plant by insertion or by placing in close contact
*GROW MEDIA / MEDIUM* &#8211; the material used to support a plant&#8217;s root system and store nutrient solution in a hydroponic garden
*GUANO* &#8211; a substance composed chiefly of the dung of sea birds or bats, accumulated along certain coastal areas or in caves and used as fertilizer

- *H* -

*HALOGEN* &#8211; any of the elements chlorine, bromine, iodine and astatine existing in a free state. Halogens are in the arc tube of a halide lamp
*HARDEN OFF* &#8211; to gradually acclimatize a plant to a harsher environment. A seedling must be hardened off before planting outdoors
*HID* &#8211; High Intensity Discharge. This generally applies to the light bulbs used in hydroponic gardens
*HOOD* &#8211; the reflective cover of an HID lamp
*HOR* &#8211; abbreviation for Horizontal. This is commonly stamped on some HID bulbs to provide instructions as to how they should be mounted
*HORMONE* &#8211; chemical substance that controls the growth and development of a plant
*HUMIDITY* &#8211; wetness in the atmosphere
*HUMUS* &#8211; a brown or black organic substance consisting of partially or wholly decayed vegetable or animal matter that provides nutrients for plants and increases the ability of soil to retain water
*HYBRID* &#8211; an offspring created by combining two plants of different breeds, variety or genetic make-up
*HYDRATED LIME* &#8211; instantly soluble lime, used to raise or lower pH
*HYDROPONICS* &#8211; cultivation of plants in nutrient solution rather than in soil
*HYGROMETER* &#8211; instrument used to measure the relative humidity in the atmosphere

- *I* -

*INTENSITY* &#8211; the magnitude of light energy per unit. Intensity diminishes as light travels away from the source

- *K* -

*KILOWATT-HOUR* &#8211; the measure of electricity used per hour. Ex: a 1000 watt HID uses one kilowatt per hour

- *L* -

*LEAF CURL* &#8211; leaf malformation indicative of over watering, over-fertilizing, lack of magnesium, insect damage, fungus damage or negative tropism
*LIGHT CYCLE* &#8211; see PHOTOPERIOD
*LIGHT METER* &#8211; a device used to calculate and measure the effective light in a tested area
*LIGHT MOVER* &#8211; an apparatus designed to simulate a natural horizon by slowly changing the position of a lamp and its influence
*LUMEN* &#8211; measurement of light output. One lumen is equal to the amount of light emitted by one candle that falls on one square foot of surface located one foot away from the candle

- *M* -

*MACRO-NUTRIENT* &#8211; one or all of the primary nutrients N-P-K or the secondary nutrients magnesium and calcium
*MAXIMUM YIELD MAGAZINE* &#8211; the number one source for the latest information pertaining to the hydroponics industry
*MICRO-NUTRIENT* &#8211; also referred to as trace elements, which includes the minerals S, Fe, Mn B, Mb, An and Cu
*MICROBIAL* &#8211; a minute life form; a microorganism, especially a bacterium that causes disease
*MODULAR HYDROPONICS* &#8211; the method of growing plants hydroponically in which each individual plant has its own contained grow medium and structure
*MONOCHROMATIC* &#8211; producing only one colour

- *N* -

*NEMATODE* &#8211; unsegmented worms with elongated rounded bodies pointed at both ends; mostly free-living but some are parasitic
*NFT* &#8211; Nutrient Film Technique. Nutrient is fed into grow tubes where the roots draw it up. A thin film of nutrient allows the roots to have constant contact with the nutrient and the air layer above at the same time
*NITROGEN (N)* &#8211; a nonmetallic element that constitutes nearly four-fifths of the air by volume, occurring as a colorless, odorless, almost inert diatomic gas, N2, in various minerals and in all proteins and used in a wide variety of important manufactures, including ammonia, nitric acid, TNT, and fertilizers. Atomic number 7; atomic weight 14.0067; melting point -209.86°C; boiling point -195.8°C; valence 3, 5
*NUTRIENT* &#8211; plant food, essential elements N-P-K, secondary elements and trace elements which are fundamental to sustaining plant life
*NUTRIENT DEFICIENCIES* &#8211; low and improper levels of nutrient being supplied to a plant

- *O* -

*ORGANIC* &#8211; of, marked by, or involving the use of fertilizers or pesticides that are strictly of animal or vegetable origin

- *P* -

*pH* &#8211; a scale from 1 to 14 that measures acid to alkaline balance.
*PARABOLIC REFLECTOR* &#8211; a concave reflector with a series of honeycombed panels used to reflect light
*PERLITE* &#8211; (1) a sand or volcanic glass, expanded by heat, which holds water and nutrients on its many irregular surfaces (2) mineral soil amendment
*PHOSPHOROUS (P)* &#8211; of, relating to, or containing phosphorus, especially with valence 3 or a valence lower than that of a comparable phosphoric compound
*PHOTOPERIOD* &#8211; the relationship between the length of light and dark in a 24 hour period
*PHOTOSYNTHESIS* &#8211; the process by which plants use light energy to collect carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and convert it to chemical energy in the form of sugar
*POLLINATION* &#8211; the transfer of pollen from a stamen to a pistil. This process is often enhanced by environmental manipulation, plant movement through shaking or vibration or the introduction of bees into the growing area
*POLYPLOID* &#8211; an organism with more than two sets of chromosomes
*POTASSIUM (K)* &#8211; a soft, silver-white, highly or explosively reactive metallic element that occurs in nature only in compounds. It is obtained by electrolysis of its common hydroxide and found in, or converted to, a wide variety of salts used especially in fertilizers and soaps. Atomic number 19; atomic weight 39.098; melting point 63.65°C; boiling point 774°C; specific gravity 0.862; valence 1
*PREDATORY INSECT* &#8211; any variety of insect introduced into a grow area used to combat pests or detrimental infestations
*PROPOGATE* &#8211; (1) Sexual &#8211; to produce a seed by breeding different male and female flowers (2) Asexual &#8211; to produce a plant by taking cuttings
*PRUNING* &#8211; to cut off or remove dead or living parts or branches of a plant to improve shape or growth
*PYRETHRUM* &#8211; natural insecticide made from the blossoms of various chrysanthemums

- *R* -

*REFLECTOR* &#8211; the highly reflective, smooth finished hood placed above a lamp to more efficiently direct its light
*RESERVOIR (or RES)* &#8211; any container of a variety of constructions which holds water in reserve for use
*REVERSE OSMOSIS (R/O)* &#8211; water which has had all of its contaminates and salts removed
*ROCKWOOL* &#8211; inert, soil less growing medium consisting of thin strand-like fibres made from rock

- *S* -

*SECONDARY NUTRIENTS* &#8211; Calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg)
*SEEDLING* &#8211; a young plant that is grown from a seed
*SHORE FLY* &#8211; any of numerous minute black flies of the family Ephydridae, living in damp or marshy places
*SPIDER MITE* &#8211; any of various small red mites of the family Tetranychidae that feed on vegetation, causing damage to the leaves
*STIMULATOR* &#8211; any product used to specifically increase one designated area of a plant&#8217;s growth cycle
*STRESS* &#8211; the effect a plant faces when it is subjected to a detrimental environment
*SYSTEMIC* &#8211; a term used in reference to a disease within the plant tissue, not initiated from the external cells. This also refers to materials and compounds which are taken up or absorbed by the plant and designed to fight disease

- *T* -

*THRIPS* &#8211; any of various minute insects of the order Thysanoptera, having usually four narrow wings fringed with hairs, and many of which are major pests of various plants and trees
*TRACE ELEMENT* &#8211; a chemical element required in minute quantities by an organism to maintain proper physical functioning

- *U* -

*UNIFORM GROWTH* &#8211; ensuring the entirety of the crop receives equal environmental stimulation resulting in equal growth of all plants

- *V* -

*VERMICULITE* &#8211; mica processed and expanded by heat

- *W* -

*WETTING AGENT* &#8211; compound that reduces the droplet size and lowers the surface tension of the water, making it wetter
*WHITEFLY* &#8211; any of various small whitish homopterous insects of the family Aleyrodidae, having long wings and a white waxy body, often injurious to plants
*WICK* &#8211; part of a passive hydroponic system using a wick suspended in the nutrient solution; the nutrients pass up the wick and are absorbed by the medium and roots
*WORM CASTINGS* &#8211; the nutrient rich fertilizer created by earthworms


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## SOG (Jan 15, 2009)

*Seeds and Strains*​










*Characteristics of Various Cannabis Strains*


    




*Female Flower Maturation*​









*When to Harvest*​









*How to get Female seeds*​ 








Marijuana Is dioeciously: which means each plant normally bears either male or female flowers and is considered either a male or a female plant. Normally about half are male. Marijuana gender is determined somewhat the same as gender is in humans. Males have an *X* and a *Y* sex chromosome; female have two *XX* chromosomes.
There are many variations on basic theme of exclusively male or female plants.
Occasionally an hermaphrodite that has both male and female flowers on the same plant appears, and many varieties are naturally hermaphroditic. 
*The male plant (XY)*​

Male plants are the bane of marijuana growers. They're necessary for breeding and hybridizing, but otherwise there in the way. they take up precious room and there pollen spoils many a good sinsemilla crop. However there a necessary evil for the development and breeding of good marijuana seed stock, and to hybridize and incorporate desirable characteristics from different strains within a single variety. In nature males usually start to flower about two to four weeks before the females but there is of course significant overlap to ensure pollination. Males are not as strongly obligated by the photoperiod for flowering as the females are. Under electric lights males sometimes flower after three or four months, even when the photoperiod is 16 or more hours long. They do, though, respond to a shortened photoperiod by flowering in about 8 to 12 days. Males especially those from temperate climates, sometimes are introduced to flower even under long light regimes.
For example some hemp and indica varieties flower when the photoperiod is shortened from 24 hours to 18 hours of light. The same plants started under 18 hours of light may not flower
Until the light cycle is reduced to 15 hours.
Just prior to flowering male and female plants diverge in their growth patens. You may notice that the tops of the male plants _(upper internodes)_ elongate about a week before the first male flower pods appear. by elongating and ultimately growing taller than their sisters, males ensure that there pollen is released from a high position so that gravity and the wind carry pollen to the females awaiting Below. The male top shoots are thin and sparse, unlike the female tops which thicken and branch at the onset of flowering. 
Once the male releases the majority of its pollen, his vigor wanes. He has cast his genetic material to the fate of the wind. The task and cycle for which nature design him is complete, and soon he'll die.
*Male flowers** (XY)*​ 
Male flowers are small oval-shaped pods about a quarter inch long. before opening they may be green yellow or red to purple in color. Individually, the flowers are pale and not striking, but they develop in copious clusters _(cymes)_ concentrated mostly at the top of the plant and on the ends of the branches but. Male flowers look more like familiar flowers than the female flowers do. They have five tiny tepals _(somewhat like petals)_ and 5 pendulous stamens. Pollen develops within the sacs _(anthers, which look somewhat like teeny bananas)_ of the stamens. A line of resin glands forms along the sides of the anther slit, from which the pollen drops. This association lends support to the idea that resin glands may help dissuade insects, animals or microbes from attacking the plant's reproductive parts.
*The female plant (xx)*​ 

Females start to flower 8 days to 2 weeks after you've shortened the photoperiod. The female flowers are small an insignificant at first, but flowers continually from for 6 to 14 weeks, until they develop into tightly packed, dense clusters _(recemes)_ popularly known as buds or colas _(colas more often refers to a dense collection of buds)_
Pollen that lands on a stigma grows a germinating tube down to fertilize the ovule. The resin glands, which contain the active ingredient THC, develop on the bracts_ (modified leaves)_, which encase or cover the ovule. The resin glands on the bracts are visible with good eyes or a magnifying glass a few weeks after the flower first appears. Some growers call the bracts "calyxes", but a bract is the botanically correct term.

*female flowers** (xx)*​ 

A single female flower consists of 2 small _(1/4 to 1/2 inch long)_ fuzzy white stigmas _(sometimes pink, red or purple)_ raised in a "V" sign and growing out of a ovule enclosed in a tiny green bract _(pod)_. 

*Hermaphroditic plants** (XY/XX)*​ 

Some plants are hermaphroditic. Hermaphrodites produce both male and female flowers on the same plant. Thai the other Southeast Asian varieties commonly consist of hermaphroditic plants that form some male flowers among the female buds. Some hermaphrodites, particularly Southeast Asian varieties of genetically predetermined, which means that no matter what the environmental influences are, these plants will form both male and female flowers. More common are plants that are basically either female or male plants, but because of an abnormal or unorthodox environment, the plants respond by producing male flowers on a fundamentally female plant, or female flowers on what should be an exclusively male plant.
Often the course of these abnormalities is an erratic, prolonged or abbreviated photoperiod or life cycle. One very common case of these abnormal flowering is when a grower plants a temperate variety, such as Afghani; these temperate varieties normally flower when the daily light is from 13 to 14 hours duration. Growers often turn the light cycle down to only 9 to 10 hours of light. Under this abbreviated photoperiod, female plants quite commonly developed male flowers or, more often, male flower parts on the female buds late in the maturation process: after 8 to 12 weeks of flowering, you may notice male anthers _(pollen sacs)_ protruding from the female buds - it's time to harvest. A few male flower parts won't ruin your crop, _(although infertile seeds may develop)_, 
*Producing female seed** (xx)*​ 

To develop seed that will yield exclusively female plants requires some luck and careful observation, but it is simple. Remember that some female plants occasionally bear an isolated male flower _(see hermaphroditic plants )_. Marijuana plants are normally either female _(XX chromosomes)_ or male _(XY chromosomes)_. Marijuana plants although predisposed genetically to be either male or female, have a degree of latitude that very often is effected by the environment. A plant that should be exclusively female may bear an occasional male flower and vice versa. The pollen from this isolated male flower on a female plant has only *X* chromosomes, the genes for the female plant. By carefully collecting Pollen from this male flower and pollinating the female flowers _(which also carry X chromosomes)_, all resulting seed will yield prospectively female plants _(XX chromosomes)_



*Things to watch out for*​ 

The only difficulty to producing female seed is finding an actual source female pollen.
As stated before many Southeast Asian plants characteristically bare some male flowers among mostly female flowering buds. These plants give raise to seed that will reflect their parents; that is, female buds mixed with male flowers. Don't breed these natural hermaphrodites. What you want to find is a rare female plant that develops perhaps one or two male flowers, This plant is genetically female. Carefully collective her Pollen, and fertilize an exclusively female plant; all the resulting seed develop into pure females. the only other certain candidate for female pollen is a female that has flowered well with pure female flowers, but late in life the plant reverses to male flowering. This is not unusual when the plants are left to grow for an extended time, or if there is an erratic photoperiod. 
*Producing female seed with Gibberellic acid (GA)*​ 

Gibberellic acid is the chemical most commonly available. GA is applied to the growing shoots of the female plants either in diluted spray all by wrapping cotton around the shoots and soaking the cotton with a solution. Concentrations of GA used are 0.02% dissolved in diluted sodium hydroxide _(NaOH)_ and then in distilled water for a daily spray, or 5mg per plant for 10 
Successive days using the cotton-soak method. Shoots elongate within a few days at first male flowers appear among the female flowers from 2 to 3 weeks after initial treatment _(the treatment works without being particularly precise with the concentrations of GA)_ 







*Rodelization: Soma's way to Female Seeds*​

Heres an easy, environmentally friendly method for breeding feminized seeds. 

Creating feminized cannabis seeds is an art. Just like art, there are a few different methods of application. I have written about some of my different methods of making seeds in previous HIGH TIMES articles. I have used gibberellic acid, pH stress, light stress, and fertilizer stress to force my female plants to make seeds. All of these methods are harsh on the plants, and some, like the gibberellic acid, are not organic. In my search for cleaner, more earth-friendly ways of working with the cannabis plant, I have found a new way to make feminized seeds. 

Feminized seeds occur as a result of stress, rather than genetics. All cannabis plants can and will make male flowers under stress. Certain strains like a higher pH, some a lower one. Some like a lot of food, some like much less. There is quite a lot of variety in marijuana genetics, and you cant treat every plant the same way. 

It takes many harvests before you really get to know a particular strain. Just like getting to know human friends, it takes time. I have grown the same strains for close to a decade, and am truly getting to know every nuance the different plants exhibit. I can recognize them from a distance. I must say that I get a lot of help from my friends, both in making seeds and in learning new and better ways of working with this sacred plant. 

I named this new method "Rodelization," after a friend who helped me realize and make use of this way of creating female seeds. After growing crop after crop of the same plants in the same conditions, I noticed that if I flowered the plants 10-14 days longer than usual, they would develop male "bananas." A male banana is a very slight male flower on a female marijuana plant that is formed because of stress. Usually they do not let out any pollen early enough to make seeds, but they sometimes do. They are a built-in safety factor so that in case of severe conditions, the plant can make sure the species is furthered. 

To me, a male banana is quite a beautiful thing. It has the potential of making all female seeds. Many growers out there have male-banana phobia. They see one and have heart palpitations, they want to cut down the entire crop, or at the very least take tweezers and pluck the little yellow emergency devices out. I call them "emergency devices" because they emerge at times of stress. 

In the Rodelization method, the male banana is very valuable. After growing your female plants 10-14 days longer than usual, hang them up to dry, then carefully take them off the drying lines and inspect for bananas. Each and every banana should be removed, and placed in a small bag labeled very accurately. These sealed bags can be placed in the fridge for one or two months and still remain potent. 

For the next phase, you need to have a separate crop thats already 2 1/2 weeks into flowering. Take your sealed bags of pollen out of the fridge, and proceed to impregnate your new crop of females. To do this, you must first match the female plant and the pollen from the same strain in the previous crop. Shut all the fans in the growroom down. Then take a very fine paintbrush, dip it in the bag of pollen, and paint it on the female flower. Do this to each different strain you have growing together. I have done it with up to 10 different kinds in the same room with great success. 

I use the lower flowers to make seeds, leaving the top colas seedless for smoking. This method takes time (two crops), but is completely organic, and lets you have great-quality smoke at the same time you make your female seeds. If youre one of those growers whos never grown seeds for fear of not having something good to smoke, you will love this method. 

You can also use this pollen to make new female crosses by cross-pollinating. The older females with the male bananas can be brought into the room with the younger, unpollinated females after they are three weeks into flowering. Turn all of the circulation fans on high, and the little bits of pollen will proceed to make it around the room. Do this for several days. Six to seven weeks later, you will have ripe 100% feminized seeds; not nearly as many as a male plant would make, but enough to start over somewhere else with the same genetics. 

As a farmer who has been forced to move his genetics far away from where they started, I know very well the value of seeds. My friend Adam from ThSeeds in Amsterdam has a motto that I love to borrow these days: Drop seeds not bombs.


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## SOG (Jan 15, 2009)

*Fertilizer formulas*​ 

Fertilizer formulas are not secret. All the information needed is on the label.
You just have to know how to do the calculations, which is rather challenging.
here's one of several ways one can make one liter of 2-1-6 solution.
First you have to convert the 2-1-6, which is an archaic N-P2O5-K2O, to N-P-K.
P2O5 x 0.43 = %P
K2O x 0.83 = %K
After conversion, you have 2N-0.43P-4.98K
assuming you want to use all nitrate-N.
You need to know the elemental percentages for each of your fertilizer salts.
They should be on the fertilizer container. Remember to convert P2O5 and K2O to P and K.
*1*. Start with the 0.5 Mg and use magnesium nitrate - Mg(NO3)2 6H2O - which has a molecular weight of 256.41.
The molecular weight of Mg is 24.3 so 24.3/256.41 x 100 = 9.5 % Mg
Multiply the percentage required by 10,000 to get mg/liter.
The 0.5 Mg is roughly equivalent to 5,000 mg/liter or 5 g/liter.
To determine how much magnesium nitrate is required to give 5 g Mg, divide 5 by the %Mg in magnesium nitrate written as a decimal.
So 5/0.095 = 52.6 g magnesium nitrate per liter
*2*. Determine how much nitrogen is supplied by magnesium nitrate.
The percent N in magnesium sulfate is 28/256.41 x 100 = 10.9% so the 52.6 g magnesium nitrate provides 0.109 x 52.6 = 5.7 g N
*3*. Use mono potassium phosphate to provide the 0.43P. Mono potassium phosphate (KH2PO4) contains about 22.3%P and 28.2%K
Multiply 0.43 x 10,000 = 4,300 mg/liter = 4.3 g/liter
4.3/0.223 = 19.3 g mono potassium phosphate
*4*. Determine how much K was provided by mono potassium phosphate.
19.3 g x 0.282 = 5.44 g K
*5*. Use potassium nitrate (KNO3), which is 13% N and 37% K, to provide the rest of the N.
The 2%N represents 20,000 mg/liter N or 20 g/liter.
From step 2, you already have 5.7 g N supplied by magnesium nitrate.
Therefore, you only need 20 - 5.7 = 14.3 g N.
Take 14.3/0.13 =
110 g potassium nitrate
*6*. Determine how much K was provided by potassium nitrate.
110 x 0.37 = 40.7 g K.
*7*. For potassium, you need 4.98 x 10,000 = 49,800 mg/liter = 49.8 g/liter
From step 4, you provided 5.44 g K
From step 6, you provided 40.7 g K.
Therefore, you only need 49.8 - 5.44 - 40.7 = 3.66 g K
Potassium sulfate K2SO4 contains about 44%K
3.66/0.44 =
8.3 g potassium sulfate


----------



## SOG (Jan 15, 2009)

on a *15AMP over 110V* current you can run up to 1650Watts
on a *20AMP over 110V* current you can run up to 2200Watts
on a *30AMP over 220V* current you can run up to 6600Watts (watts can be from either 220or downgraded 110)
on a *50AMP over 220V* current you can run up to 11000Watts (watts can be from either 220or downgraded 110)

*FYI*: in the USA we run a *110v x 2=220v , do not calculate at 240v*
*

Lets talk Lights!!!*

*Outside Daylight:*This is really amazing!!!
Direct outside daylight in the summer time is somewhere in the neighborhood of 10,000 foot candles. 
This is equal to 10,000 lumens per square foot. 

and for reference

*Foot Candle:* This is the basic unit of light intensity or how much light you shine on a given area. 
The foot candle is based on how many lumens of light you shine on a given area (measured in square feet). 
An example would be: 
If you shine one lumen of light on one square foot - you get one foot candle. 
If you shine 10 lumens on one square foot - you get 10 foot candles. 
Light intensity is what really counts for plant growth. 
This is a term that we need to understand.
















 

*Photosynthesis*: 
The process by which carbon dioxide and water are combined in the presence of light energy and chlorophyll to form carbohydrates. 
Photosynthesis takes place in the plant cell's chloroplasts. 
Inside the chloroplasts, chlorophyll absorb light energy from the sun. 
The chloroplasts then use that energy to jumpstart the process of photosynthesis. 
The carbohydrates/ sugars are the plant's internal energy storehouse; they are used to build and maintain plant tissue. 
The energy for a plants food production engine comes from light, in the form of wavelength energy. 
In regards to indoor growing, think of light to a plant the same way you would the sun to the Earth. 
Without the sun's energy, life on Earth would not be sustainable; similarly, a plant cannot maintain plant processes without adequate influx of light energy. 
The sun is every spectrum of light, but a plant only uses certain aspects of this spectrum to accomplish food production. 
Bottom line, in an indoor scenario it is the goal of the gardener to replace the sun.

Generally, plants use blue light during the vegetative stage and red light during the flowering stage. 
Think about this in outdoor terms. 
we experience seasons- times of year when the climate is different, but predictable (at least for now). 
In the spring, at the beginning of the outdoor growing season plants are vegetative growing, there is an 18-hour day and a bright blue sun. 
In the fall, when a plant is flowering, there is a 12-hour day with the sun lower in the sky, resulting in red light from the sun. 
Plants have evolved to use this variance to induce specific plant processes. 
It is standard procedure to use blue light to "veg" and red light to bloom. 
However, photoperiod is very general in nature. 
to the higher latitudes would be more prone to this phenomenon than a plant on the equator that experiences relatively consistent weather year round. 
The best way to determine if changing your photoperiod has a beneficial effect on your plant growth is to test it yourself. The proof is in the pudding! 


There are many different forms of light. i will focus solely on those suitable for growing plants. 

*Types of Indoor Lighting*

*High Intensity Discharge (HID)*
There are several types of HID lighting, but only two generally accepted for plant growth: Metal Halide (MH) and High Pressure Sodium (HPS). 

*MH*
Metal halide lamps are rich in the blue spectrum, which is very close to full summer sun. 
This promotes fast vegetative growth and compact, stocky plants with short internodal leaf spacing. 
If plants are not being grown to flower, a MH light is all that is needed.





 

*HPS*
High-pressure sodium lamps are high in the red and yellow spectrum, which imitates the fall sun. 
HPS lamps promote fruit and flower production. However, any premium full-spectrum HPS light can be used from seed to harvest with minimal sacrifice in production.





 

*HID vs. Fluorescent's *
The fundamental difference is that fluorescent's create light by passing electricity through a gas vapor under low pressure and HID's create light by passing electricity through a gas vapor under high pressure. 
The light emitted by fluorescents is gentler and more diffuse; it doesn't release a lot of heat, and doesn't make the plant work as hard. 
For this reason they can be kept closer to the plant. 
HID lights produce more heat than fluorescents, resulting in a potential liability in an unventilated grow room 
its recommended ventilating your grow room. However, HID's have a more intense, and therefore further penetrating light spectrum. 
For this reason, HID's are preferred for larger plants, for plants that require high levels of light, or situations where large areas need to be covered.

*Fluorescents*
Until the introduction of compact fluorescents, fluorescent lighting was mainly used for propagation and early vegetative growth. 
Traditionally, the efficiency of fluorescents has not been comparable to HID's: 

(42) of the average 40 watt 4' fluorescent tubes (1680 lumens/bulb, 31.5 lumens/watt) 
= 
(1) 400 watt HPS lamp (50,000 lumens/bulb, ~130 lumens/watt) 
That's 1680 watts to accomplish the light output of one 400-watt lamp!
(or ~ $9.00 vs. ~$36.00 on your power bill every month)​
You can see how the efficiency of the lamp is so important in choosing your light and for your power bill. 
It's the ongoing cost no the upfront cost that is so important when choosing a light.
With the developments of compact fluorescents and T5 technology, the light output of fluorescents rivals that of HID's. 
Each 54-watt bulb in the Tek-Light produces 5000 lumens:

5 Fluorescent(216 watts) (20,000 lumens, 92.59 lumens/watt) 
= 
250 MH (23,000 lumens, 92 lumens/watt) 
= 
250 HPS (28,500 lumens, 114 lumens/watt)​
*Choosing a Light*

*Type of plant*
Crop's containing leafy plants, such as lettuce, herbs, spinach, etc., can be maintained using blue light only. 
Plants being grown for their fruit or flowers will benefit greatly from an influx of red light to optimally grow and flower. 
If one light must be chosen, metal halide light most resembles the sun and is adequate for any and all growth. 
However, progression in the light manufacturing industry now allows seed to harvest growth under any premium full-spectrum bulb provided there is sufficient overall light levels. 
The only way to definitively determine what works best for you is to try it out. 
Experimentation is a bastion of indoor gardening and is half the battle in creating an ideal plant environment. 

*How to determine light efficiency*
Plants "see" light differently than human beings do. 
While they are a good general standard to measure light efficiency, lumens, lux, or footcandles, should not be taken as gospel for plant growth since they are measures used for human visibility. 
A more correct measure for plants is _PAR_





















*Photosythetically Active Radiation **(PAR) :* used to refer to the portion of the light spectrum optimal for plant growth, namely about 400 to 700 nanometers in wavelength. 
watts. In addition to quantity of light, considerations of quality are important, since plants use energy in different parts of the spectrum for critical processes.







*How much light do I need?*
Technology has advanced so much in the last 15 years that we are constantly refining the process and updating what we know works best for growing. 
Current theory holds that the minimum amount of lighting needed to sustain a good rate of growth is around 20-25 watts per square foot. Mid range is around 30-45 watts per square foot. 
Optimal is 50-75 watts per square foot, but 75-100 watts/square foot is not unheard of. 
There is really no such thing as too much light, but using an HID light in a small space may result in high temperatures that are hard to control. 
To determine adequate light for your space use the Calibration and Conversion tables.


*Which type of lamp is best for me?*
As you will notice, there are many different kinds of HPS lamps and many kinds of MH lamps. Some are definitely better than others. 
For example, notice the increase in light between the Hortilux Blue MH (left) and standard MH (right) below:









 

Standard HID lamps were originally designed for streetlights and stadiums, not for growing plants. 
A hortilux or "full spectrum" lamp was designed specifically for horticulture and is recommended for all stages of growth, even switchable systems. 
However, standard MH lamps can be used with success with a red supplement (such as a low K fluorescent, or standard HPS) for flowering plants. 
Standard HPS lamps utilized from seed will result in leggy plants that are stretching looking for the blue light absent in standard HPS lamps. 
If using one lamp from seed to harvest using HPS lighting always use a Hortilux or "full spectrum" lamp. 


When using florsecents pay attention to the Kelvin (K) rating. 
The lower the K value the more red the spectrum and vice versa. 
Aim for ~6,000 - 6,500 K for a blue spectrum and 2,700 - 2,500 K for red spectrum lamps.















 





*Using your Light*

*Light Movers*
The most efficient way to use HID lights is to have them moving within the growroom. 
Light movers can increase the coverage area of your light and significantly improve the dispersal of light throughout your garden. 
There are many advantages to this, and a number of different ways it can be done. 
Moving the lights will eliminate plants tendency to grow toward the light source and provide light to areas which otherwise may be shaded. 
Since the light is moving, it can pass quite close to the plants without burning the leaves. 
The size and shape of your room will determine the type of light mover that will best suite your needs. 

*Linear movers*
Linear movers carry the light fixture slowly along a track and back again during the light cycle. Most are six feet long, support a single lamp, and are recommended when the growing area is long and narrow.

*Circular movers*
Circular movers are best when the length and width of the room are similar. They are designed to carry one, two, or three lights, in a 360-degree circle, ideally lighting a ten by ten foot area. This diameter can be reduced but rarely extended. Two arm and three arm movers are most popular, with the latter supplying much more 

light per square foot. 







*Electricity Cost *
The average garden light will increase your power bill $5-10/month depending on the exact size of the system and photoperiod of the light. To calculate the exact cost of using your light refer to your power bill and the Calibration and Conversion tables . 

*Voltage *
Most high intensity lights can be run on either 120 volt (standard house current), or 240 volt (e.g. used for electric dryers, stoves, etc.). 
Electricity cost would be the same but the latter would draw half the amps allowing the grower to run twice as many lamps on the same electrical circuit.

*Timers *
Timers are essential for a properly operating growroom. 
By nature, a plant requires darkness for at least six hours daily to incorporate the food that it makes for itself during photosynthesis. 
It is a common misconception that 24 hours of light on a plant benefits its growth. 
While some plants can be more receptive to this than others, it is a good idea to allow the dark period so as not to overexert your plants. 
A light timer is the bottom rung in automating your grow room. 
Many growers do not realize the extent that a grow room can be automated. 
Automation can not only reduce maintenance and electricity costs, but significantly increase yields by way of a more idealized growing environment. 
Light timers are available for either 120 or 240 voltage, but always check to see that the amperage rating on the timer exceeds that of the light or lights. 

Lamp and Ballast Maintenance and Troubleshooting 
A lighting system consists of a lamp, _ballast_

*Ballast *: a device used to regulate flow of electricity to match the needs of a specific bulb, and reflector. 
Most lighting systems come with some sort of warranty. 
The extended warranty usually comes with the ballast since it is the most technical component of your lighting system. 

In putting together a lighting system it is crucial to match the wattage on the lamp with the wattage on the ballast, and also to match Halide bulb with Halide ballast and Sodium lamp with Sodium ballast (except switchable ballasts and conversion lamps). 
The ballast acts as a current control for the electricity coming out of your socket. 
Because of this, the wattage of the lamp must match up with the wattage of the ballast or the current will either be too strong or too weak for the lamp, resulting in a shorter life span or non-start situation. 
In the case of matching MH with MH and HPS with HPS, the only 

difference between a MH and HPS ballast is the presence of an ignitor in the HPS ballast. 
If a MH lamp is put into a HPS ballast the MH lamp will receive an ignition charge it is not manufactured to withstand resulting in a decrease in lamp life. 
Conversely, if a HPS lamp is used in a MH ballast the HPS lamp will not receive the ignition charge necessary to "fire" the lamp, resulting in a non-start. 
Reflectors are universal; they have nothing to do with wattage or electricity. 
They simply direct light down onto your garden. It is a good idea to change your lamp once a year. 
HID lamps act off of excited gases. The gases get used up over a period of time by undergoing chemical reactions with the glass tube encasing them and after about a year up to half of the usable light will be gone. 
You may not be able to see this with your eyes, but your plants will show you the difference. 
It may take up to 30 seconds for the lamp to ignite and up to five minutes to reach full brightness. 
As a lamp ignites, it tends to flicker and change color for several minutes. 
This is quite normal, especially with halide lamps, which may appear to change color slightly during normal use. 
If the lamp does not ignite after 30 or 40 seconds, unplug it. 
After the power has been disconnected, check:

&#8226; that the lamp is screwed in all the way 
&#8226; that the timer is set on the "on" position 
&#8226; that all plugs or electrical connections are O.K.

*NOTE: Do Not Open The Ballast Enclosure To Check Wiring Yourself! *​
Heat kills ballasts. 
It has been said that a ballast operating with an internal temperature of 150 degrees or less can last for 20 years. 
Every degree above 150 decreases the life of your ballast by 2 years! So it is important to maintain a temperature of less than 150 degrees inside your ballast. 
This does not take special attention for normal growing temperatures will not allow this threshold to be reached. 
With a remote ballast you can simply keep your ballast outside of a warm grow room if need be.


Lighting is one of the five major factors to consider when creating a support system for your plant life, (water, nutrients, oxygen and CO2 are the others). 
Thus if you plan to grow inside, out of season, you must supplement the sunlight normally required for proper growth. 
This can be done with three different kinds of lighting, incandescent, fluorescent, and H.I.D. (High Intensity Discharge). 
These are the most popular types of lighting for gardening purposes. There are many other kinds of lighting, but they don't produce proper color (kelvins) that is suitable for growing.

*Incandescent lighting-* These are the least efficient and least effective method of lighting, for plant growth. 
Incandescent lighting is the same as what is used in the average medium base household fixtures. 
This type of lighting is a very poor choice of lighting for your garden because of their inefficiency.

*Fluorescent lights-* These are a little better choice than incandescent lights due to the fact that they are about twice as efficient (lumens of light output per watt of electricity used). 
However these lights are not very effective in comparison to an HID (High Intensity Discharge) system and these lights must be less than 12 inches away from their subjects to ensure successful growth. 
However, some find that our T-5 fluorescent lights are perfect for use with seedlings and cuttings as well as for use with other plants that do not require the high intensity of H.I.D. (High Intensity Discharge) lighting.

*H.I.D.(High Intensity Discharge)-* These lights are by far the most efficient and effective lights being used by growers today. 
There are two types of H.I.D. (High Intensity Discharge) lamps that have suitable light spectrums (color range) and intensity for plant growth. 
MH (Metal Halide) lamps are rich in the blue light spectrum, similar to full summer sun. 
HPS (High Pressure Sodium) lamps are rich in the red/yellow spectrums, similar to the color of the fall sun. 

METAL HALIDE

(MH)
MH (Metal Halide) bulbs are very efficient and produce between 70 and 115 lumens of light output per watt of electricity used. 
MH (Metal Halide) bulbs produce a light that is very close to full summer sun, with a spectrum rich in the blue end. 
This promotes fast vegetative growth and compact, stocky plants with short internodal leaf spacing. 

MH (Metal Halide) bulbs create light by passing electricity through an clear inner arc tube that is enclosed in the vacuum of an outer clear glass tube. 
This inner arc tube contains mercury and other metals in iodide form. When electricity is applied to these metal iodides they give off very intense light and heat. 
The outer casing can also be phosphorus coated. Most gardeners prefer the clear bulb, as it produces the brightest white light available.

MH (Metal Halide) bulbs come in sizes from 70 to 1500 watts with the 250 w, 400 w and the 1000 w being the most popular sizes for gardening. 
All MH (Metal Halide) bulbs need to run with a ballast (a ballast is a transformer that steps up the voltage to the proper amount needed to ignite the iodides), that is designed to run that specific bulb size.
The bulbs themselves need to be burned in a specific position. They come in three types: Vertical (marked BU or BD), Horizontal (marked HOR) and Universal (marked U). The universal bulbs can be burned in any position, but they still are more efficient when burned vertically.

MH (Medal Halide) bulbs should be replaced about every 10,000 hours of use or approximately 18 months (as per an 18 hour / day on cycle).

HIGH PRESSURE SODIUM

HPS (High Pressure Sodium) bulbs are the most efficient bulbs that are available for grow lights. 
They are high in the red and yellow parts of the light spectrum and low in the blue, this imitates the fall sun. 
Because of this spectrum some plants that are grown with HPS (High Pressure Sodium) lights will grow elongated and rather leggy, while many other plants are not affected by the limited light spectrum. 
For plants that normally bud and flower in the fall an HPS (High Pressure Sodium) is usually the light of choice because it's light spectrum promotes flower production. 
There are color corrected HPS (High Pressure Sodium) bulbs (such as the Son Agro) available for improved growing with HPS (High Pressure Sodium) efficiency. 
These are designed specifically for indoor horticulture, and have a more balanced color spectrum.

HPS (High Pressure Sodium) bulbs are made out of a translucent ceramic arc tube containing a mixture of sodium, mercury and xenon gas. This arc tube is suspended in an outer glass shield (bulb). 
HPS (High Pressure Sodium) bulbs range in power from 35w to 1000w, with the 250w, 400w, 600w and 1000w being the most popular for horticulture use.
HPS (High Pressure Sodium) bulbs should be changed no later than 24 months from initial use. 
These bulbs (like the Metal Halides) also slowly lose their brightness over time, so to maintain proper light intensity the bulbs must be changed at the end of their rated life.

*Selecting a Grow Light*
Plants have the unique ability to manufacture their own food. The food manufacturing process is called photosynthesis. 
Photosynthesis is carried out by many different organisms, ranging from plants to bacteria. 
The best known form of photosynthesis is the one carried out by higher plants and algae, as well as by cyanobacteria and their relatives, which are responsible for a major part of photosynthesis in oceans. 
All these organisms convert CO2 (carbon dioxide) to organic material by reducing this gas to carbohydrates in a rather complex set of reactions. 
Electrons for this reduction reaction ultimately come from water, which is then converted to oxygen and protons. 
Energy for this process is provided by light, which is absorbed by pigments (primarily chlorophylls and carotenoids).
Chlorophylls absorb blue and red light and carotenoids absorb blue-green light, but green and yellow light are not effectively absorbed by photosynthetic pigments in plants; 
therefore, light of these colors is either reflected by leaves or passes through the leaves. This is why plants are green. 





 

The next chart shows the relationship between chlorophyll activity and color of light. 
Common electric light sources are indicated below the chart. 
You will notice that Metal Halide (MH) and High Pressure Sodium (HPS) produce light in the most photo synthetically active spectrums (colors).







As the chart above indicates, cool (blue) and warm (orange) colors in the spectrum enhance chlorophyll activity and food production. 
Cool light is most pronounced during the summer months when the sun is highest in the sky. It is responsible for keeping plants growth compact and shapely. 
Warm light, such as when the sun is lower in the sky during the fall harvest months, is responsible for triggering reproduction in plants in the form of flowers and fruits. 


After you select the type of lamp you want then you must decide how many systems will be required to cover the planted area. 
The following chart shows the coverage area of the available lamp sizes.





 

HPS (High Pressure Sodium) lighting can cost up to 15% more than comparable MH (Metal Halide) systems, however, the bulbs have a longer life span and also have a higher lumen output than any other H.I.D. (High Intensity Discharge) lighting. 
MH (Metal Halide) bulbs lose about 15% to 20% of their light intensity after one year where as the HPS (High Pressure Sodium) bulbs lose only about 5% of their intensity in the same time frame. 
MH (Metal Halide) systems produce between 70 and 115 lumens per watt of electricity consumed, 
HPS (High Pressure Sodium) systems produce between 97 and 150 lumens per watt.

Growers continue to debate over which of these types of H.I.D. (High Intensity Discharge) lighting is the preference for generic use. But, the rule of thumb is that metal halide light spectrum is best for dense vegetative growth and the high pressure sodium is best suited for blooming growth. 
If you are starting to wonder if this article has a specific answer to the question of which is better, well, I'll leave it up to personal preference. Some people have been known to have a MH (Metal Halide) and a HPS (High Pressure Sodium) lighting system, 
using the MH (Metal Halide) for the vegetative cycle and then switching over to a HPS (High Pressure Sodium) system when it's time for blooming. 
Another option is to use a switchable ballast (available in 1000w MH/HPS and 400w MH/HPS). These are ballasts that allow the grower the option of using an MH (Metal Halides) or an HPS lamp (High Pressure Sodium), 
or they can use both (one bulb for a period of time and then switch halfway through the grow period to the other bulb, to simulate the grow seasons). 
These switchable systems are slightly less efficient than the normal ballasts, but they are much cheaper than buying an entirely separate system.

Regardless of which system you choose, you should change out your bulbs no later than the end of their rated life; this is due to the loss of intensity and therefore rendering the system less efficient. 
MH (Metal Halide) bulbs should be changed after 12 to 18 months and HPS (High Pressure Sodium) bulbs after about 24 months. 
This will ensure proper light intensity and therefore proper growth.


----------



## SOG (Jan 15, 2009)

*Grow Guides*

Beginners Guide to Growing Marijuana 

the marijuana growers guide 

Cannabis Growing Guide

Nirvana Cannabis Growing Guide

the joys of an herb garden at home 



*DIY Guides*

DIY Aquafarm Plans

DIY Build your own Plastic Bottle Greenhouse

DIY Dutch pot system

DIY How to Build A State-of-the-Art, High Yielding Aeroponic Growing System

DIY Hydroponic Wick Raft Bubbler

DIY Hydroponics

DIY NFT DFT

DIY Pvc Top Drip System

DIY Screwfix Vertical

DIY Vertical Micro Cab

DIY Waterfarm mods for Tree &amp; Bush style growing

DIY World's Simplest Ebb &amp; Flow Unit

DIY Make and Toke your own Bongs

DIY The Infamous Dual Bong



*eBooks for Online reading:*

Bookshelf *A*

Bookshelf *B*

Bookshelf *C*



*Manuals:*

Complete *Aero plans manuals*




*Software:*

*Pipe Flow Expert *
Software for the Design of Pipe Networks!!!







.


----------



## SOG (Jan 16, 2009)

had a vision few months back, when i was researching lighting solutions
i am going to run 4x1000W in a single tent, cooling is important
was looking into every possible solution out there, couldn't find one i like 
had to build something myself to get the perfect lighting system 
here's what came out


----------



## SOG (Jan 20, 2009)

*DR300 Adjust-A-Wing placement*


----------



## SOG (Jan 20, 2009)

*Grow Rooms Design*


----------



## SOG (Jan 25, 2009)

there it is, my tweaked prototype 

TBA


----------



## SOG (Feb 11, 2009)

my spray line prototype


----------



## SOG (Feb 12, 2009)

OK guys here it is! 
I'm going to let the pictures do the talking

*The Contenders* 

 
   
  



*The Favorite *

     



*Almost The Winner*

   



*Aspect Ratio against my new 4 3/4" tubes*

  



*its Show Time!!!**

Strong Box filled with 15 Gallon, as expected; not a budge *

 



*same content in the 18 Gallon Rubbermaid Roughneck*





*some prospective*

   

(didn't even bother to fill the big Stanley one, will obviously hold and way more...


----------



## SOG (Feb 14, 2009)

completed my design and built for my flower unit
4 3/4" Fence posts
Tough Box 27 Gallon
doubled & lifted spry lines
15" max height off the ground
holds 18 gallons for two weeks cycle


----------



## SOG (Feb 18, 2009)

finally... 
the long awaited specs of the illusive EZ-Clone mister
its actually made company called Toro, 
official product name is Irritrol Winged&#8482;® Single Piece Spray Jet
complete catalog and specs can be downloaded here 

from my testing i found,
for proper operation in an Aero/NFT application
calculate a minimum of 15GPH or a max of 20GPH per mister, for proper operation.


----------



## SOG (Feb 19, 2009)

*EZ-Clone Misters Pattern Test* Enjoy!

Tested with 6 misters at a Max of 216GPH/3.6GPM
to find the max GPH i was testing at,(tested with my shower hose at variable pressures) 
used the same hose to fill up a tank at full throttle for 60 seconds 
calculated the water weight to confirm the 3.6 gallon markup in the tank

total water weight after 60 seconds is 30lbs
water line shows at roughly 3.6G (lil over the 3.5 markup)
1 Gallon of water = 8.35lbs
30/8.35=3.6GPM
3.6x60=216GPH
all i can say, 
when used outside the tube with greater pressure
these are very powerful misters that will do the work for an outside garden


----------



## SOG (Feb 22, 2009)

run the final test this morning with the ECO 396gph + 24 EZ-Clone misters 
from my impression, it works flawlessly 
here are some pics


----------



## SOG (Feb 23, 2009)

i heard of an interesting Tip today
flush plants with plain water and 5mm of maple syrup
this will make the buds dank up significantly 
anyone else heard of this?


----------



## SOG (Feb 23, 2009)

Fresh Cuttings of the day!!!


----------



## SOG (Feb 24, 2009)

someone out there is hitting some real good kush...
*Pot Can Fix the Budget Mess, Legislator Says*


----------



## SOG (Feb 24, 2009)

Please everyone a worm Welcome - 
*State of New Jersey is now a proud Member of the MMJ Family*

*S119 * *  Establishes "New Jersey Compassionate Use Medical Marijuana Act." * 
* Passed Senate *


----------



## SOG (Feb 26, 2009)

*SoG Aeroponic NFT Blueprints Plans v1.2*


----------



## SOG (Feb 27, 2009)

*in the news*
*Raids on Medical Marijuana Will End*


----------



## SOG (Mar 1, 2009)

*SoG Aero NFT Material Calculator v1.1*
(added new fields and few missing pieces, Alter C2 with units number)


----------



## SOG (Mar 3, 2009)

Lego anyone?


----------



## SOG (Mar 4, 2009)

RO system and main res


----------



## SOG (Mar 5, 2009)

RO installed and tested !!!


----------



## SOG (Mar 7, 2009)

i know most of you jump to the last page for updates
i finally got my editing ability restored, and working on the main page 
I'm adding articles, links and much needed information, hoping to make it a main source of information - all under one roof
with all my technical information and other resources accumulated

i apologies in advance if i remove anyone's comments or quotes, 
doing this in order to keep information in order

added *link to my albums in my sig*


----------



## SOG (Mar 8, 2009)

been editing my thread, 
some of the pictures may not load or display (my albums are not set to private yet) 
i have rearranged my albums so some pics have changed their links, 
working on fixing this (pm me if you see some missing pics with the link)


----------



## SOG (Mar 8, 2009)

Shrike said:


> You keep amazing me with the amount of info you keep throwing our way. Putting links to all the equipment sources was a very nice touch. Keep on keeping on, dude!


Thanks bro, 
keep checking the main page
i am moving everything into the first few pages
then keeping updates and changes as close as possible to the first few pages, 
this way the information don't get scattered and is all available in one place 
which i ill maintain as we go, we can all chat over the rest of the thread


----------



## SOG (Mar 10, 2009)

its time to...


----------



## SOG (Mar 22, 2009)

completed!!!


----------



## SOG (Mar 22, 2009)

some prospective


----------



## SOG (Mar 23, 2009)

DR300 coming up! 
stay tuned...


----------



## SOG (Mar 23, 2009)

and... its huge alright!


----------



## SOG (Mar 23, 2009)

*discussions moved here
*


----------



## SOG (Mar 27, 2009)

*Rerouting Heater Air Ducts to clear space*


   

*
Power Installed:*
2 x *110v 15amp*, 2 x *110v 20amp*, 2 x *220v 30amp*, *+ 50amp* cable ready for expansion

    

*
Extending space*


     

*
Isolating the grow area from the rest of the attic*


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## SOG (Apr 1, 2009)

*Attic Prep is moving along...*
next is covering the inside of the framing with thermal IR shield 
then sheet rocking on top of the IR shield and insulating with 9 1/2" fiberglass roll


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## SOG (Apr 3, 2009)

*Easy-Grow Thermal Reflective Film Properties*

Please note these properties apply to both the diamond & the Silver/white lightite & are based on 100mtr rolls


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## SOG (Apr 4, 2009)

*note on the top left, In vs. Out temps* 
(out sensor is outside in the open air)

 

and the unavoidable...


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## SOG (Apr 7, 2009)




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## SOG (Apr 19, 2009)

*Sexing your plants!*

Alright, so you're growing from seeds, and you want to chop the males, or at least isolate them so their pollen doesn't fertilize your female plants, 
making them produce a lot of seeds, ruining your hard work of growing nice sinsemilla (seedless bud).

Or...

You might be, however, wanting to raise a male for breeding. This can be done by moving your plant to another area to mature, 
or you can put a plastic bag over the plant with some small holes to provide enough air for transpiration and something to absorb the moisture created by transpiration. 
Moving the plant is probably the best idea, as unwanted pollen in the female grow room can be a nuisance, 
or, if you have multiple males, you can select ones that display appealing phenotypes (characteristics).

Certain plants may be pollinated by isolating only certain females, or only certain branches. 
This helps cause only the breeding you want and also limits seed production so that there is still sinsemilla produced. 
One plant could produce hundreds of seeds. 
Pollen can be released by using an artist's paint brush to touch the pollen on the pistils of the female plant. 
Doing this with limited to no air movement works best to help make sure the pollen fertilizes the pistis and doesn't collect on yourself, 
so that pollen doesn't follow you back to the female grow room and cause unwanted pollination. 
Separated females that have been pollinated should remain out of the main grow room for a few days, 
and be blown well to remove any extra pollen not collected by the female during pollination.

When your male flowers are mature, you may collect the pollen. 
Pollen must remain completely dry in order to be viable. 
After drying the collected pollen for a few days, store them in a cool, dark, dry place for months, or even years. 
A great idea is to make an envelope of wax paper, and store the dried pollen inside with rice, or some other dessicant, in the freezer.

*How to Sex Plants?!*

With either situation, determining the sex of cannabis is done by identifying the males or females by their reproductive parts. 
Males have pollen sacs, and females have pistils. 
Preflowers begin to develop when the plant becomes sexually mature (a good sign of this is when the plant begins producing alternate nodes), 
which usually happens around four to six weeks of vegetative growth.

You don't need to be in a hurry to chop your male plants if you are unsure of their sex and don't plan on keeping them for breeding; pollen sacs before maturity are just filled with water and won't ruin your grow. 
It's better to wait to be absolutely sure that the plant is a male than to get rid of it at the first possible sign of male reproductive parts - 
wait to see a few of the male preflowers bunched together on the internodes or at the growing tip of the top of the plant.

It is also possible that a plant will become a hermaphrodite. 
This is when the plant produces both male and female reproductive parts, usually as a response to stress. 
Certain strains may be more prone to hermaphrodite than others under the same growing conditions, and feminized seeds may be more likely to go hermie as well. 
One common thing that might stress the plant into going hermie is being exposed to light during the dark period of flowering, for instance. 
Hermaphrodites will pollinate itself and other females, ruining sinsemilla and producing seeds that are likely of no use for breeding.

*Alternating Nodes*







*Male And Female Preflowers*

















*Male And Female Flowers*







*Hermaphrodite*


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## SOG (Apr 19, 2009)

*Topping a Plant*

1. Locate the very top of your plant and cut through the main stem just below the newest growth. (This should be done after the 3rd or 4th leaf set but can be done at any time after the 3rd leaf set)
2. Plant with top cut off, this is where the 2 new Branches that will form a "Y" on the main stem.
3. Newly topped plant after 2 days of growth, notice the Y Forming on the main stem.








*Fimming a Plant!*

Fimming is exactly like topping, accept your leaving part of the new growth. 
taking off only part of the new growth by topping the most recent growth.
What this end up doing is, making 4 new tops right next to eachother 
its actually 2 at the very top (like topping) since it was cut closely to the next newest set of fanleaves 
the 2 branches which would have formed there will turn to 2 new tops.

*1.* Locate the very top of the new growth







*2.* With a clean sterilized scissors, Fold the fan leafs over and cut approximately 80% of the new growth off the plant. 







*3.* View from the top showing the Cut







*4.* View of the Cut section after 2 days growth, showing the 4 new growth shoots (branches)







Enjoy Topping and Fimming of your plants.


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## SOG (Apr 20, 2009)

IR Shield layer


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## SOG (Apr 24, 2009)

ready for Sheetrock and paint


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## SOG (Apr 25, 2009)

here we go again...


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## SOG (Apr 30, 2009)




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## SOG (May 1, 2009)




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## SOG (May 9, 2009)

Time to play...


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## SOG (May 11, 2009)

prob the only time ill be able to snap one of the DR300 in full view


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## SOG (May 13, 2009)

12" IceBox Experiment, to be installed on the *Main Exhaust line* 

100ft 3/8 soft copper coiled to fill a 12" diameter
this will go inside a 12" tube, connected to a res
being constantly chilled with a chiller
circulating the coil with a pump

here is the first 50ft coiled


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## SOG (May 14, 2009)

coil No. 2, patent pending


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## SOG (May 15, 2009)

modding the design


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## SOG (May 15, 2009)

There it is, my Coil is complete
now all is left it to put this in a 12 inche'r duct 
plug on side of the coil inline to the chiller as part of its exit cycle, 
other side of the coil drops the actual end of the cycle into the res 
chiller pulls up for re chilling from the res, 
that's the plan,


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## SOG (May 20, 2009)

completed build - Sun Tube & Adjust-A-Wing combo


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## SOG (May 20, 2009)

scratched the previous coil design, this is the new Heart/Coil!!!


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## SOG (May 21, 2009)

there it is my friends, my DIY IceBox 
ready to Plug and Play!!!


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## SOG (May 22, 2009)

Arctica 1/4 hp chiller


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## SOG (May 23, 2009)

its show time!!!


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## SOG (May 23, 2009)

here are the results
tested with:
10 Gallons water & 396 pump over 15 min run
heat blowing on one side of the rad at 129f
coming out on the other at 72f
water were not completely chilled through to the desired temps in this run
(couldn't wait to run the test)


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## SOG (May 23, 2009)

50 gallon res


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## SOG (May 29, 2009)

between the insulated attic room build and the my DIY Ice Box 
allot have changed since i thought out my original plan

My Sealed Room Configuration
This a totally controlled environment
Where every aspect of the plants production can be 
manipulated and customized to produce the optimum results
With this type setup you get the maximum ability to dictate and control
Temperatures, Co2 Levels, Humidity, disease, and pests
24 Hours a day, 365 a year

No outdoors air is entering or leaving the room
Tents are located inside the main sealed room




(larger version attached)


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## SOG (Jun 12, 2009)

here's a peek at my attic


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## SOG (Jun 13, 2009)

Lights on!


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## SOG (Jun 19, 2009)

well... here it is, 
my long awaited room is up and running


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## SOG (Jun 22, 2009)

The Main Exhausts is ready to be plugged into the Icebox


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## SOG (Jul 20, 2009)

its been a while since my last update
i finally got around to complete my 12" CoolBox

I've build few more of these units, in different sizes and with various duct flange configuration
they will be displayed in the upcoming hydroponic show in San Francisco


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## SOG (Jul 26, 2009)

i had to brake my 2 x 30 amp's 220v sockets 
in order to fully distribute the power usage

i build two load centers with parts i picked up from home depot
all parts for both centers together were under $150

i converted one of the 30 amp 220v socket to 
two nema 5-15 10amp 110v sockets 
with a 20amp 220vand two nema 6-15 sockets 
i will be running 4 x 1000w 240v ballasts off of that
(I'm missing the 10amp breaker in the pic)

the other 30amp 220v was converted into 
two 15amp 110v with 2 nema 5-15 sockets on each, 
i will run each of my AC's off that


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## SOG (Jul 29, 2009)

Elvis has left the building


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## SOG (Jul 31, 2009)

My Power Center conversion 
30amp laundry outlet converts into 20amp 220v + 10amp 110v
(i made only two ballasts (nema 6-15) sockets because ill be running a PXM-2 off of each)




   

  


Main 120amp Power Box = $14
1 x single pole 10amp breaker = $3
1 x double pole 20amp breaker = $7.97
3 x two gang steel box = $1.94
3 x two gang steel box outlet cover = $1.87
4 x one inch 1/2 spacer = $0.99
1 x 3/4 cable clamp = $0.99
1 x 30amp 240v dryer cord = $18.47
1 x nema 5-15 outlet (10amp 120v) = $1.99
2 x nema 6-15 outlet (20amp 250v) = $4.97
1 x 1' Romex 3 wire cable 10 gauge = $1.67


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## SOG (Jul 31, 2009)

This is a Downgrade Power Center 
30amp 220v laundry outlet into 2 x 15amp 110v

    

 


Main 60amp Power Box = $9
2 x single pole 15amp breaker = $3.35
1 x two gang steel box = $1.94
1 x two gang steel box outlet cover = $1.87
1 x one inch 1/2 spacer = $0.99
1 x 3/4 cable clamp = $0.99
1 x 30amp 240v dryer cord = $18.47
2 x duble nema 5-15 outlet (10amp 120v) = $1.99
1 x 1' Romex 3 wire cable 10 gauge = $1.67


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## SOG (Aug 2, 2009)

out to get the first batch of Super Silver haze clones 

on my birthday,of all days


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## SOG (Aug 2, 2009)

the girls are here


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## SOG (Aug 2, 2009)

My ladies are finally home
Super Silver Haze
Day one


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## SOG (Aug 3, 2009)

Girls got heir first rounds of nuts today


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## SOG (Aug 8, 2009)

girls got Fimmed last night


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## SOG (Aug 10, 2009)

here they are, my SSH girls are a one week old, 
i know they look scruffy, they had a rough week with me dialing things in
today will be the second day the ladies are getting Co2 throughout the day cycle

first two days they got nothing but fresh RO water
third day they were accidentally nute overdosed, 
flushed on the fifth day with fresh RO water 
on the sixth day i added nuts to the water again
and added 1500ppm Co2 injection to the day cycle


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## SOG (Aug 10, 2009)

here are the roots,one week old
(i didn't expect to find this much root in one week)


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## SOG (Aug 13, 2009)

anyone using a *Tri-Meter being sold in the US*; most likely ended up with the 202 model which converts EC at a 0.5 ratio
a 1000ppm calibration solution sold in the US; are for devices that converts EC on a 0.7 scale! 

when used do dial a Tri-Meter model 202, *dial your meter to read 714 ppm * not a 1000 ppm as the solution label calls for.

Ideal water temps for EC measuring are 68-70f


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## SOG (Aug 15, 2009)

I've been looking around for ideas to cool multiple reservoirs with one Chiller
one idea is to daisy chain aluminum cooling blocks in a closed loop
all connected to one chiller, circulating cold water through internal passages, 
not touching the soup water, blocks can be added or removed to and from the loop at any time 

i found two ideal candidates for this job, they are referred to as "Wort Chillers"

one called a Shirron Wort Chiller, the other is called Therminator Wort Chiller
they both operate under the same concept, with distinct price differences and performance 

for example 
the Terminator claims to Chill 10 gal in 5 min to 68oF using 58oF cooling water at 5 gpm.
all in a compact size (7.5" W, 4" D, 3" H) that can fit in a res



Therminator Wort Chiller








Shirron Wort Chiller


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## SOG (Aug 15, 2009)

week old Rhizo roots, two weeks old sleeping SSH ladies


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## SOG (Aug 16, 2009)

i finally completed the Water and Nutes station
adding a much needed drain and a water line


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## SOG (Aug 16, 2009)




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## SOG (Aug 20, 2009)

the new girls have arrived
Banana Kush and Bubba Kush moms
with 6 of their girls each!!!




 




this is for you bra, the best vaporizer in the world!
Verdamper


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## SOG (Aug 21, 2009)

from here on, all picture updates will be restricted to my friends and contacts only!
i don't want people to be offended, this is not personal
i will not approve friends requests from new members
i will look into every request, if its not approved 
please participate more, then try again
participation doesn't need to be on my thread
although this will help me get to know one faster
(links in my signature)


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## SOG (Aug 21, 2009)

everyone else who's following and not already on my friends list
pm me ill send an invite, or simply add me as a friend
once approved all images will be viewable


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## SOG (Aug 21, 2009)

i just wanted to add this comment for everyone who's flowing and cannot see my pics, 
please pm me; and ask to be added to the list or simply send me a friend request

my comment earlier applies to site guests and freshly registered members mostly!

Best regards

SoG


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## SOG (Aug 21, 2009)

the ladies showed up today


----------



## SOG (Aug 30, 2009)

a Special Big Thanks goes to everyone who chimed in to helped out
especially LoudBlunt, jberry and YaK 



now to my freshly built Nursery Station and DWC units 

Enjoy


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## SOG (Sep 5, 2009)

Girls are almost two weeks old
they have been through allot in those weeks
moving from plastic cups with rock wool (one week old)
the GC girls had to be broken from a rock wool six pack cube
root rot fiasco in their old home, pulled out of their net cups 
and placed in their current and final location
they also got FIMMED along the way

considering all they have been through; 
i think they are recouping well 

most of the girls will go into flowering this monday
GC girls will stay another week in veg (the short girls on the left side)


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## SOG (Sep 7, 2009)

nursery coming along


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## SOG (Sep 11, 2009)

my girls been drinking and parting like crazy, party is over! 
its time to move to the new pad 


   

  

here is a glimpse of my new CoolCube 
cooling multiple reservoirs using only one chiller (patent pending )


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## SOG (Sep 12, 2009)

SoG Grow Room Tour - Part 1


[youtube]PajaPWZ_eYg[/youtube]


----------



## SOG (Sep 12, 2009)

SoG Grow Room Tour - Part 2


[youtube]eF0De1Jcs3U[/youtube]


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## SOG (Sep 12, 2009)

roots mug shoots


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## SOG (Sep 13, 2009)

W00T... the girls made it to their new pad 

I'd like to add a special thanks to the individuals who donated to my room
i wouldn't be here today without your donation, and your much needed and appreciated help 

BIG THANKS (R,G,D )






    



that's for you LB




its go time!


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## SOG (Sep 13, 2009)

Cool Cube Part 1
room is in dark cycle, lights are coming on 
view of the system layout and CoolCube 

[youtube]MvR9oTcqoAI[/youtube]


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## SOG (Sep 13, 2009)

CoolCube Part 2

Ok, the lights been on for about an hour, 
res lids were left open to speed up heat buildup
as expected temps staring to climb up in the res
now that we got some heat buildup going 
we turn on the CoolCube loop, and wait to see what happens




[youtube]VxPGDSktW-g[/youtube]


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## SOG (Sep 13, 2009)

CoolCube Part 3

you be the judge




[youtube]SzwYkSW5Guc[/youtube]


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## SOG (Sep 17, 2009)

Girls been Lollipoped


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## SOG (Sep 17, 2009)

Cuttings of the day


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## SOG (Sep 18, 2009)

My girls in flowering progress
Front row Banana Kush 
Back row Bubba Kush

  


Banana Kush Roots

  

Bubba Kush Roots


----------



## SOG (Sep 18, 2009)

My GC Girls made it in today


----------



## SOG (Sep 22, 2009)

Day 1 09/12/09


  

10 days into flowering 09/22/09
Middle Site -
Banana Kush on the right,
Bubba Kush on the left

you can see i already stretched the AAW wings


----------



## SOG (Sep 24, 2009)

Got Bud?


----------



## SOG (Sep 25, 2009)

another site got filled with GC today


----------



## SOG (Sep 26, 2009)

some roots shoots, 
these are the GC girls before they went into flower room


----------



## SOG (Sep 26, 2009)




----------



## SOG (Oct 3, 2009)

GC girls got a nice trim (end week one)

  


Clones anyone?

  


GC (end week two)

 


Banana Kush & Bubba Kush (end week 3)


----------



## SOG (Oct 3, 2009)

Bud Porn 

Banana Kush (end week 3)

  

  


Bubba Kush (end week 3)

  


GC (end week 2)


----------



## SOG (Oct 12, 2009)




----------



## SOG (Oct 16, 2009)

Green Crack - 3th Week begining of 4th

  

    

   


Banana Kush - 4th Week begining of 5th

 

  

   

    


Bubba Kush - 4th Week begining of 5th


----------



## SOG (Oct 24, 2009)

Bubba Kush - ending Week 5th

 

  


Banana Kush - ending Week 5th

  

 

Green Crack - ending Week 5th


----------



## SOG (Nov 15, 2009)

as of last night the room has been chopped down and hanging to dry now
a Special BIG Thanks goes out to Chef_Flaco's crew    
you guys help was tremendous, much appreciated


----------



## SOG (Nov 18, 2009)




----------



## SOG (Nov 18, 2009)

on the menu for round three

Bubba Kush - Swerve Pre 98 Cut 
Matanuska Valley Thunderfuck 
Cinderella 99 - Pineapple Pheno 
Shishkaberry - StinkBudd Cut 
Master Kush - Rascle Cut 
DJ Short - Blueberry 
DJ Short - FLO 
White Widow
Green Crack 

Compliments Of Chef_Flaco! 
you rock brother


----------



## SOG (Nov 19, 2009)

oily rasin on buds


----------



## SOG (Nov 19, 2009)

trimmings of the day!

    

and a 5g finger hash bonus


----------



## SOG (Nov 23, 2009)

as of an hour ago, I'm officially done trimmin!

WOOT


----------



## SOG (Nov 24, 2009)




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## SOG (Nov 29, 2009)

till the next time
 


  
 

...the end!


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## SOG (Jan 18, 2010)

thought id bump the thread up with my recent project


----------



## SOG (Feb 7, 2010)

here we go again, stay tuned


----------



## SOG (Feb 19, 2010)

let it be light...


----------

