# Hormones /PGR`s/Vitimans - Research Thread Only



## eza82 (Feb 9, 2009)

DEAR READER,
THIS IS A COLLECTION OF DATA RELATED TO HORMONES & MARIJUANA,
THE SAME INFORMATION IS IN
HORMONES Vs Co2 - Hormones cheaper potentially yeild same !
bUT THAT IS THE DISCUSSION THREAD.... SO INFORMATION IS SCATTERED & ALL OVER THE PLACE. 
i DECIDED TO CREATE A NEW THREAD WITH ALL INFO ON ONE POST FOR REFFERENCE.

iF YOU HAVE LINKS, EXPERIMENTAL RESEARCH, CHARTS, EXAMPLES, MORE INFO I DONT HAVE HERE.... IN A PROJECT TYPE FORMAT, EXPERIENCE WITH ANY OF THEM PLEASE REPORT IT HERE, GROW JOURNAL LINKS USEING THESE, etc

lets try to make this a RESEARCH THREAD.................. we can chat on the thread above..... YOU CAN SUBSCRIBE

Happy reading...............

HORMONES/ PGRS/ VITIMINS/ MICRONUTES/ MINERALS/ CHEM`s 4 MJ

Plant Hormone  an endogenous regulator. To be a hormone, a chemical must be produced within the plant, transported from a site of production to a site of action, and be active in small amounts. PGR`s are man made plant hormones.


GIBBERELLIC ACID (GA3)

Probably the best known of the plant hormones. It's produced by the plants tips and is responsible for the plant growth. The problem with GA3, is that most growth is in the form of "stretching" which isn't always diserable, so except for seeds and clones.

GA3 has some other uses as well. You can intiate male fowers on a female plant but using high doses every day for several days. You can also induce female flowers earlier and yield bigger flowers with micro doesing.

The gibberellins are widespread throughout the plant kingdom, and more than 75 have been isolated, to date. Rather than giving each a specific name, the compounds are numberedfor example, GA1, GA2, and so on. Gibberellic acid three (GA3) is the most widespread and most thoroughly studied. The gibberellins are especially abundant in seeds and young shoots where they control stem elongation by stimulating both cell division and elongation (auxin stimulates only cell elongation). The gibberellins are carried by the xylem and phloem. Numerous effects have been cataloged that involve about 15 or fewer of the gibberellic acids. The greater number with no known effects apparently are precursors to the active ones. 

*I know there has been experimentation with GA3 sprayed on genetically dwarf plants stimulates elongation of the dwarf plants to normal heights. Normal-height plants sprayed with GA3 become giants. like addicott study on next post.*

I Found a botinist that germinationg 2000yr old exstinct SEEDS into plants with this hormone.

although the results of gibberellic acid (GA3) applications vary depending on many factors, including the type of plants its applied to. In one study of persimmon yield (1) it was found that applications of 15 to 30 PPM increased yields by 50% to 400%. In another study (2) it was even found that if gibberellic acid is applied to a plant the next generation of the plant would also benefit from faster flowering and increased height. In another study of walnut trees it was found that applications of gibbarellic acid (GA3) increased growth by 567% (3).
1) Increasing Persimmon Yields With Gibberellic Acid [www.actahort.org/books/120/120_32.htm]
2) Generations Living with Gibberellic Acid [www.sidwell.edu/us/science/vlb5/Independent_Research_Projects/cgraham/]
3) Gibberellic Acid for Fruit Set and Seed Germination [www.crfg.org/tidbits/gibberellic.html]

A study on persimmons 1 increased yield by at least 50%. This was done with a foliar spray of 15 to 30 ppm when the plants where at full bloom.
1) http://www.actahort.org/books/120/120_32.htm

retail names:
Gibberellic Acid (GA3), 

*Functions of Gibberellins* 

Active gibberellins show many physiological effects, each depending on the type of gibberellin present as well as the species of plant. Some of the physiological processes stimulated by gibberellins are outlined below (Davies, 1995; Mauseth, 1991; Raven, 1992; Salisbury and Ross, 1992). 
Stimulate stem elongation by stimulating cell division and elongation. 
Stimulates bolting/flowering in response to long days. 
Breaks seed dormancy in some plants which require stratification or light to induce germination. 
Stimulates enzyme production (a-amylase) in germinating cereal grains for mobilization of seed reserves. 
Induces maleness in dioecious flowers (sex expression). 
Can cause parthenocarpic (seedless) fruit development. 
Can delay senescence in leaves and citrus fruits. 
*UNDER A LINK on MAIN PAGE: REF to GA3*

*Recipes FOR GA3 - folia spray with penotrator i would suggest or paste*
*( this is a studied recipe so I figure we should stick to it)*

PPM 50 - GA mg 125 Water 2400ml Purpose = early flower 
PPM 200 - GA mg 125 Water 600ml Purpose = early flower 
PPM 800 - GA mg 125 Water 160ml Purpose = blossom set
PPM 2000 - GA mg 125 Water 60ml Purpose = Seed germ
1%paste - GA mg 125 Water 5ml Purpose = growth promoter

Too much youll turn your girl into boys or hermi`s

Careful shit is nasty
Although GA is not listed as a "poison", the following precautions should be observed: Flush with water any GA that may get into the eye. Avoid skin contact if possible. If skin contact is suspected, wash with soap and water. *Do not re-enter an area after spraying until the GA spray is fully dry*. Avoid ingestion of GA. 
RESULT: 
Premature flowering. If a plant is sufficiently developed, premature flowering may be induced by direct application of GA to young plants. This action is not sustained and treatment may have to be repeated. Formation of male flowers is generally promoted by concentrations of 10 to 200 ppm., female flowers by concentrations of 200 to 300 ppm. Concentrations of more than 600 ppm markedly suppresses initiation of both male and female flowers. 

Increased growth. GA applied near the terminal bud of trees may increase the rate of growth by stimulating more or less constant growth during the season. In a Department of Agriculture experiment, the GA was applied as a 1% paste in a band around the terminal bud of trees. Treatment was repeated three times during the summer. Walnut tee growth was 8.5 ft. for treated trees, 1.5 ft. for untreated trees

http://www.crfg.org/tidbits/gibberellic.html

another : Fruit trees.....
A spray of GA3 (gibberellic acid) at a concentration of 1530 ppm at full bloom significantly increased yields (by 50400%). In young trees (45 years old), a narrow (23 mm) girdling at the time of sprouting, together with GA3, gave best results.
*Gibberellin *
--- When seeds absorb water, the hormone gibberellin (gibberellic acid-A, GAA) appears in the embryo and activates the metabolism to initiate sprouting. GAA has been widely tested in applications to hemp. When applied to cannabis at a rate of 100 ppm in water for 2 months, GAA increases the thickness and internodal length of the stock. The terminal nodes are weak, branching is suppressed, and the roots develop poorly. Germination is stimulated by GAA, but leaf growth and the production of chlorophyll and cannabinoids are reduced proportionately. GAA treatment does not hasten the generative development of hemp, but does promote plant growth. The stem diameter increases about 250% over control plants, and the fresh weight of the stem increases 300%. Treated plants have a higher ratio of bark:wood. The number of fibers increases up to 100%. According to G. Davidyan, the greatest effect is achieved with 0.005-0.01% GAA applied before the buds form. R. Herich tested the histological reactions of hemp by soaking the seeds in 5 ppm GAA for 24 hours with these results: "The plants showed the following differences from untreated controls: decrease of stem thickness, less lignification, decreased bark development especially in lower parts of stems, decrease in number of secondary bast fibers, increase in number and size of primary bast fibers, and increased differentiation of parenchymatous pith tissue". 
(63)C.K. Atal also described the effect of GAA on hemp: "Gibberellin-treated plants showed a greater number of fibers as compared to controls. The individual fibers were larger in diameter, more lignified, and up to 10 times as long as the fibers from the untreated plants." 
(64)F. Yanishevskii studied the effect of GAA on the nitrogen metabolism of hemp: "Stem lengthening took place mainly by cell extension. Net weight even decreased somewhat. Chlorophyll concentration decreased noticeably... Plants treated with GAA contained less N than controls. GAA exerted a considerable influence on the N metabolism of hemp plants: in treated plants the amount of protein N decreased 2-fold, but, in contrast, the soluble forms of N increased markedly. Treatment with GAA had almost no effect on the content of N fractions of cell components (nuclei, plastids). Nucleic acid content decreased mainly owing to decrease in the amount of RNA. Accumulation of soluble forms of N under the influence of GAA would indicate that the introduction of nitrogenous fertilizers (as recommended by Witter and Bucovac) would hardly make up for the unfavorable effect of GAA on the N metabolism of hemp." 
(65)N. Yakushkina and L. Chuikova also tested the action of GAA and Indole-Acetic Acid (IAA, auxin) on hemp: "GAA intensified the growth of the plants, the average dry weight per plant, the photosynthesis rate, the sugar content (especially of the stem) and that of total N, and the respiration rate, but decreased the content of chlorophyll in the leaves. The separate application of IAA (find auxin ) caused a decrease in the growth and yield of the plants, and a considerable increase in the chlorophyll content, but decreased the photosynthesis rate. The simultaneous application of GAA and IAA was accompanied by the highest increase in yield, but this addition of IAA did not exert any substantial influence on the physiological processes.
" (66 )GAA also increases the length of the growing season. GAA will inhibit the formation of flowers on Cannabis; it must not be used during the flowering phase of growth. GAA will accelerate the onset
of budding by about 7 days. Treatment of plants with 25 mg GAA/liter results in 80% of the plants being male. Female hemp usually undergoes sex reversal to a male expression, but few of the male plants produce female flowers. Thus, G. Davidyan and S. Kutuzova reported: "Gibberellin causes the formation of male flowers, containing fertile pollen, on genetically female plants." 
(67)V. Khryanin treated dioecious hemp with GAA (25 mg/liter) and produced monoecious feminized staminate hemp from the common pistillate form: "Gibberellin, as a hormone of the plant organism, probably depresses genes which participate in the formation of flowers which have been repressed. "Thus GAA can be used by breeders to develop monoecious cannabis from dioecious forms. Preliminary tests are necessary to determine the most effective concentration and best timing for each cultivar.
The effect of GAA is removed by abscisic acid (ABA), which will initiate flowering. Treatment of plants with ABA (10 mg/liter) results in all plants being female or bisexual. The ABA can be overcome by increasing the concentration of GAA.
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MAKE YOUR OWN GAA:
Gibberellin is extracted from cucumber seeds, fresh cantelope seeds, dried corn kernels, and from pencil rod, lupine, and pinto beans. Soak 200 grams of powdered seeds in 110 ml of a mixture of acetone (10 parts), isopropyl alcohol (5 p), ethanol (2 p), and water (5 p). Filter the mush and rinse it with 20 ml acetone and 20 ml isopropyl alcohol. Combine the rinse and the mother liquor, then evaporate the solvent. Dissolve the gum in alkaline water for experimental use.

BRASSINOLIDE

Brassinolide is a naturally occuring plant steroid; it is normally found in plants. In fact, it was first discovered HORMONE in plants. Brassinolide has been found to be an important element for plant growth. Foliar spray about every three weeks with a final spray just as change the lights for flowering. It will increase a plants resistance to stress (cold, drought, too high a salt content), it helps the plant locate light, it strengthens a plants resistance to disease. It will also stimulate a plant to grow it's overall root mass. The overall effect is that the plant will be much healthier, stronger and thus the yield will be better. Estimate that the effect is about a 50% better yield than the untreated plants. 
A study concluded that Brassinolide increased the growth of the primary root by 90%. 
Another study concluded that a 0.0001 PPM application for 8 hours has the best results for the creation of some roots.

http://www.super-grow.biz/Brassinolide.jsp#germination

MEPIQUAT CHLORIDE

This is actually a growth inhibitor. It is sold in Hydro stores in pre-made solutions under various brand names. The idea is that it will stop the plant growth when it's time to start flowering. Not only does this control the final height (useful if you have a low ceiling problem), but also the plant will start to allocate it's growth resources into bud growth sooner. . The growth is halted (actually, some growth still occurs). the effect you see is that bud size that were usually about 5 weeks old are now bud size at 3 weeks. This gives you larger early buds and as you know, you can only build from there. The hit the plants with the Benzylaminopurine and the bud growth takes off.
Abscisic acid - ESSENTIALLY STOPS GROWTH also inhibitor.
Abscisic acid (ABA), despite its name, does not initiate abscission (shedding) , although in the 1960s when it was named botanists thought that it did. It is synthesized in plastids from carotenoids and diffuses in all directions through vascular tissues and parenchyma. *Its principal effect is inhibition of cell growth*. ABA increases in developing seeds and promotes dormancy. If leaves experience water stress, ABA amounts increase immediately, causing the stomata to close.



*Functions of Abscisic Acid*
The following are some of the phyysiological responses known to be associated with abscisic acid (Davies, 1995; Mauseth, 1991; Raven, 1992; Salisbury and Ross, 1992).
Stimulates the closure of stomata (water stress brings about an increase in ABA synthesis). 
Inhibits shoot growth but will not have as much affect on roots or may even promote growth of roots. 
Induces seeds to synthesize storage proteins. 
Inhibits the affect of gibberellins on stimulating de novo synthesis of a-amylase. 
Has some effect on induction and maintanance of dormancy. 
Induces gene transcription especially for proteinase inhibitors in response to wounding which may explain an apparent role in pathogen defense
ADD- *MrJDGaF*
Jasmonic acid/Salicylic acid 
Large-scale trials of the technology are expected this year. 
Researchers have found that plants grown from seeds first dipped in the acid are considerably more resistant to pests. 
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/sci/tech/7656078.stm
jasmonic acid. Large-scale trials of the technology are expected this year. 
Researchers have found that plants grown from seeds first dipped in the acid are considerably more resistant to pests. 

Leaf trichomes protect plants from attack by insect herbivores and are often induced following damage. Hormonal regulation of this plant induction response has not been previously studied. In a series of experiments, we addressed the effects of artificial damage, jasmonic acid, salicylic acid, and gibberellin on induction of trichomes in Arabidopsis. Artificial damage and jasmonic acid caused significant increases in trichome production of leaves. The jar1-1 mutant exhibited normal trichome induction following treatment with jasmonic acid, suggesting that adenylation of jasmonic acid is not necessary. Salicylic acid had a negative effect on trichome production and consistently reduced the effect of jasmonic acid, suggesting negative cross-talk between the jasmonate and salicylate-dependent defense pathways. Interestingly, the effect of salicylic acid persisted in the nim1-1 mutant, suggesting that the Npr1/Nim1 gene is not downstream of salicylic acid in the negative regulation of trichome production. Last, we found that gibberellin and jasmonic acid had a synergistic effect on the induction of trichomes, suggesting important interactions between these two compounds.
http://www.citeulike.org/group/2438/article/853395



Auxins
On the cellular level, *auxin is essential for cell growth, affecting both cell division and cellular expansion*. Depending on the specific tissue, auxin may promote axial elongation (as in shoots), lateral expansion (as in root swelling), or isodiametric expansion (as in fruit growth). In some cases (coleoptile growth) auxin-promoted cellular expansion occurs in the absence of cell division. In other cases, auxin-promoted cell division and cell expansion may be closely sequenced within the same tissue (root initiation, fruit growth). In a living plant it appears that auxins and other plant hormones nearly always interact to determine patterns of plant development.
An auxin, indole-3-acetic acid (IAA), was the first plant hormone identified. It is manufactured primarily in the shoot tips (in leaf primordia and young leaves), in embryos, and in parts of developing flowers and seeds. Its transport from cell to cell through the parenchyma surrounding the vascular tissues requires the expenditure of ATP energy. IAA moves in one direction onlythat is, the movement is polar and, in this case, downward. Such downward movement in shoots is said to be basipetal movement, and in roots it is acropetal. 
Auxins alone or in combination with other hormones are responsible for many aspects of plant growth. IAA in particular: 
Activates the differentiation of vascular tissue in the shoot apex and in calluses; initiates division of the vascular cambium in the spring; promotes growth of vascular tissue in healing of wounds.
Activates cellular elongation by increasing the plasticity of the cell wall.
Maintains apical dominance indirectly by stimulating the production of ethylene, which directly inhibits lateral bud growth.
Activates a gene required for making a protein necessary for growth and other genes for the synthesis of wall materials made and secreted by dictyosomes.
Promotes initiation and growth of adventitious roots in cuttings.
Promotes the growth of many fruits (from auxin produced by the developing seeds).
Suppresses the abscission (separation from the plant) of fruits and leaves (lowered production of auxin in the leaf is correlated with formation of the abscission layer).
Inhibits most flowering (but promotes flowering of pineapples).
Activates tropic responses.
Controls aging and senescence, dormancy of seeds.
*Indole-3-butyric acid (IBA) - rooting *
IBA is a plant hormone in the auxin family and is an ingredient in many commercial plant rooting horticultural products.
For use as such, it should be dissolved in about 75% (or purer) alcohol (as IBA does not dissolve in water), until a concentration from between 10,000 ppm to 50,000 ppm is achieved - this solution should then be diluted to the required concentration using distilled water. The solution should be kept in a cool, dark place for best results.
This compound had been thought to be strictly synthetic; however, it was reported that the compound was isolated from leaves and seeds of maize and other species.
Indole-3-acetic acid (IAA) is the most abundant naturally occurring auxin. Plants produce active IAA both by de novo synthesis and by releasing IAA from conjugates. This review emphasizes recent genetic experiments and complementary biochemical analyses that are beginning to unravel the complexities of IAA biosynthesis in plants. Multiple pathways exist for de novo IAA synthesis in plants, and a number of plant enzymes can liberate IAA from conjugates. This multiplicity has contributed to the current situation in which no pathway of IAA biosynthesis in plants has been unequivocally established. Genetic and biochemical experiments have demonstrated both tryptophan-dependent and tryptophan-independent routes of IAA biosynthesis. The recent application of precise and sensitive methods for quantitation of IAA and its metabolites to plant mutants disrupted in various aspects of IAA regulation is beginning to elucidate the multiple pathways that control IAA levels in the plant. 

*WILLOW WATER form of indolebutyric acid (IBA) " growing tips of willows contain high concentrations of IBA.........."*

In the fifth century B.C., the Greek physician, Hippocrates, wrote that chewing bark of a willow tree could relieve pain and fever. (No wonder squirrels dont get headaches.) In 1829, the effective ingredient, salicin, was successfully isolated from willow bark. Toward the end of the 19th century, The Bayer Company in Germany trademarked a stable form of *acetylsalicylic acid, calling it aspirin,* the a from acetyl, spir from Spiraea (the salicin they used came from meadowsweet, Spiraea ulmaria, subsequently renamed Filpendula ulmaria), and in, a common ending in drug nomenclature. 
In the 20th century, over one trillion aspirin, the first medicine created by techniques of modern chemistry, were consumed globally to regulate blood vessel elasticity, reduce fevers and aches, prevent cardiovascular ailments, affect blood clotting, or ease inflammation.
Native Americans and early settlers used willow bark for toothaches and applied it to the source of other pains. But they also recognized that you can actually grow a whole new tree by taking a stem and sticking it in moist soil. The hormones in willows cause rapid rooting, and they discovered these same hormones could induce rooting in other plants, too.

Willow waterTo harness this power, they made a tonic called *willow water* by collecting willow twigs, trimming the leaves, immersing the stems in a pail of water, and pouring the water on newly planted trees, shrubs, and bedding plants. Commercial rooting preparations contain a synthetic form of *indolebutyric acid (IBA)* and growing tips of willows contain high concentrations of IBA, depending on the quantity used and length of time you soak them. Any willow (Salix) tree or shrub species will work.


Another discovery: In the January, 2004 issue of The Avant Gardener, a monthly newsletter to which you can subscribe for $24/year at Horticultural Data Processors, Box 489, New York, N.Y. 10028, editor Thomas Powell notes that gardeners reported all sorts of plants growing remarkably better when given regular doses of tiny amounts of aspirin (1 part to 10,000 parts water; larger doses actually proved toxic), and that The Agricultural Research Service is investigating the reasons behind aspirins beneficial effects.
Plants make salicylic acid to trigger natural defenses against bacteria, fungi, and viruses. Aspirin thus is an activator of *Systemic Acquired Resistance* (SAR). However, plants often dont produce the acid quickly enough to prevent injury when attacked by a microbe. Spraying aspirin on the plants speeds up the SAR response. Tests have shown this works on many crops, producing better plants using less pesticide. It also makes it possible to successfully grow many fine heirloom varieties which were discarded because they lacked disease resistance. Powell says.
Scientists first encountered the SAR phenomenon in the 1930s. After encountering a pathogen, plants use salicylic acid as a key regulator of SAR and expression of defense genes. Only recently have companies begun marketing salicylic acid and similar compounds as a way to activate SAR in cropstomato, spinach, lettuce, and tobacco among them, according to Powell.
ARS scientists are studying plants defenses, such as antimicrobial materials like the protein chitinase which degrades the cell walls of fungi, and nuclease enzymes which break up the ribonucleic acid of viruses. Theyre also testing aspirin and other SAR activators which could be effective against non-microbial pests such as aphids and root-knot nematodes, Powell says. This may be the most important research of the century. Stimulating SAR defenses with aspirin or other activator compounds could result in increased food production and the elimination of synthetic pesticides.
He recommends we experiment by spraying some plants with a 1:10,000 solution (3 aspirins dissolved in 4 gallons of water), leaving other plants unsprayed. Tests have shown that the SAR activation lasts for weeks to months. (Sort of homeopathic heart attack prevention for your plants.) 


*Make your own willow water:*
by gathering about two cups of pencil-thin willow branches cut to 1-3 inch lengths. Steep twigs in a half-gallon of boiling water overnight. Refrigerated liquid kept in a jar with a tight-fitting lid will remain effective up to two months. (Label jar so you wont confuse it with your homemade moonshine.) Overnight, soak cuttings you wish to root. Or water soil into which you have planted your cuttings with the willow water. Two applications should be sufficient. Some cuttings root directly in a jar of willow water. Make a fresh batch for each use. You can also use lukewarm water and let twigs soak for 24-48 hours.
_Ilene Sternberg is a freelance writer and amateur gardener with a certificate of merit in ornamental plants from Longwood Gardens, Pennsylvania and a former garden guide at Winterthur in Delaware. _


http://www.bluestem.ca/willow-article1.htm



1-Naphthaleneacetic Acid (NAA),
The effects of 1-naphthaleneacetic acid (NAA) applied at various levels and times on yield, seed index, protein and oil content and fatty acid compositions of cotton plants seeds were studied. NAA increased the seed yield/plant and the seed, protein, and oil yields/ha compared to the control. A level of 20 ppm proved best for yield. Most NAA treatments significantly increased the seed index, but only slight increases in seed protein content were recorded.
Retail product:
LA FEMME active: NAA 


RETAIL NAMES:
1-Naphthaleneacetic Acid (NAA), Indole-3-acetic Acid (IAA), Indole-3-butyric Acid (IBA), Indole-3-Propionic Acid (IPA), (+)-cis,trans-Abscisic Acid (ABA)

*Synthetic auxins are extensively used as herbicides, the most widely known being 2,4-D and the notorious 2,4,5-T, which were used in a 1:1 combination as Agent Orange during the Vietnam War and sprayed over the Vietnam forests as a defoliant.*

*Synthetic Auxins*

Chemists have synthesized several inexpensive compounds similar in structure to IAA. Synthetic auxins, like naphthalene acetic acid, of NAA, are used extensively to promote root formation on stem and leaf cuttings. Gardeners often spray auxins on tomato plants to increase the number of fruits on each plant. When NAA is sprayed on young fruits of apple and olive trees, some of the fruits drop off so that the remaining fruits grow larger. When NAA is sprayed directly on maturing fruits, such as apples, pears and citrus fruits, several weeks before they are ready to be picked; NAA prevents the fruits from dropping off the trees before they are mature. The fact that auxins can have opposite effects, causing fruit to drop or preventing fruit from dropping, illustrates an important point. *The effects of a hormone on a plant often depend on the stage of the plant's development. *
NAA is used to prevent the undesirable sprouting of stems from the base of ornamental trees. As previously discussed, stems contain a lateral bud at the base of each leaf. IN many stems, these buds fail to sprout as long as the plant's shoot tip is still intact. The inhibition of lateral buds by the presence of the shoot tip is called apical dominance. If the shoot tip of a plant is removed, the lateral buds begin to grow. If IAA or NAA is applied to the cut tip of the stem, the lateral buds remain dormant. This adaptation is manipulated to cultivate beautiful ornamental trees. NAA is used commercially to prevent buds from sprouting on potatoes during storage. 
Another important synthetic auxin is 2,4-D, which is an herbicide, or weed killer. It selectively kills dicots, such as dandelions and pigweed, without injuring monocots, such as lawn grasses and cereal crops. Given our major dependence on cereals for food; 2,4-D has been of great value to agriculture. A mixture of 2, 4-D and another auxin, called Agent Orange, was used to destroy foliage in the jungles of Vietnam. A non-auxin contaminant in Agent Orange has caused severe health problems in many people who were exposed to it. 

*Functions of Auxin*

The following are some of the responses that auxin is known to cause (Davies, 1995; Mauseth, 1991; Raven, 1992; Salisbury and Ross, 1992). 
Stimulates cell elongation 
Stimulates cell division in the cambium and, in combination with cytokinins in tissue culture 
Stimulates differentiation of phloem and xylem 
Stimulates root initiation on stem cuttings and lateral root development in tissue culture 
Mediates the tropistic response of bending in response to gravity and light 
The auxin supply from the apical bud suppresses growth of lateral buds 
Delays leaf senescence 
Can inhibit or promote (via ethylene stimulation) leaf and fruit abscission 
Can induce fruit setting and growth in some plants 
Involved in assimilate movement toward auxin possibly by an effect on phloem transport 
Delays fruit ripening 
Promotes flowering in Bromeliads 
Stimulates growth of flower parts 
Promotes (via ethylene production) femaleness in dioecious flowers 
Stimulates the production of ethylene at high concentrations 
wiki: 
*Boric acid*, also called *boracic acid* or *orthoboric acid* or *Acidum Boricum*, is a weak acid often used as an antiseptic, insecticide, flame retardant, in nuclear power plants to control the fission rate of uranium, and as a precursor of other chemical compounds. It exists in the form of colorless crystals or a white powder and dissolves in water. This is also inhibitor But be [email protected]#ked if Im putting this near my plants..... Nuclear, control fusion...... We will steer clear of this to start till ive got more studies reviewed. Still part of Auxin family..

ORGANS are the relating factor:
Growth and division of plant cells together result in growth of tissue, and specific tissue growth contributes to the development of plant organs. Growth of cells contributes to the plant's size, but uneven localized growth produces bending, turning and directionalization of organs- for example, stems turning toward light sources (phototropism), roots growing in response to gravity (gravitropism), ETC
Organization of the plant
As auxins contribute to organ shaping, they are also fundamentally required for proper development of the plant itself. Without hormonal regulation and organization, plants would be merely proliferating heaps of similar cells. Auxin employment begins in the embryo of the plant, where directional distribution of auxin ushers in subsequent growth and development of primary growth poles, then forms buds of future organs. Throughout the plant's life, auxin helps the plant maintain the polarity of growth and recognize where it has its branches (or any organ) connected.
A number of other effects of auxin are described. (Indoleacetic acid was called heteroauxin in the older literature. The hypothetical auxin a and auxin b have never been isolated and are now generally considered invalid.)


Antiauxin  (synonyms: auxin inhibitor, auxin competitor, auxin antagonist). A compound which competitively inhibits (in the biochemical sense) the action of auxin.
Continued research on auxin has made it apparent that auxin physiology is much more complicated than it first seemed. Auxin appears to be present in all living parts of the plant, mature as well as immature. The amounts present are effected by at least three general processes: auxin production, auxin transport, and auxin inactivation. Many of the early investigations did not recognise the existence of these three processes and their results must be re-evaluated. For example, many studies of auxin transport did not take into account the probability of considerable auxin inactivation during the course of transport. Auxin is produced principally in young tissues, but can also be produced by mature tissues. The amino acid tryptophan, a common constituent of proteins, is the precursor of auxin, but the precise chemical steps of its conversion to auxin are not yet settled. The transport of auxin can be through the parenchyma, as it is in the oat coleoptile, but in more mature tissues transport is largely in the phloem. In the coleoptile transport is correlated with the streaming of protoplasm. Auxin inactivation is accomplished by an oxidative enzyme which can function either in the dark or under the influence of light. Mature tissues have relatively high auxin-inactivating capacities. In addition to these general processes other factors, still obscure, also influence the auxin in tissues. The interaction of these processes and factors determines the level of auxin which is available to influence growth and morphogenesis


for MORE http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Auxins

Cytokinins
Named because of their discovered role in cell division (cytokinesis), the cytokinins have a molecular structure similar to adenine. Naturally occurring zeatin, isolated first from corn ( Zea mays), is the most active of the cytokinins. Cytokinins are found in sites of active cell division in plantsfor example, in root tips, seeds, fruits, and leaves. They are transported in the xylem and work in the presence of auxin to promote cell division. Differing cytokinin:auxin ratios change the nature of organogenesis. If kinetin is high and auxin low, shoots are formed; if kinetin is low and auxin high, roots are formed. Lateral bud development, which is retarded by auxin, is promoted by cytokinins. Cytokinins also delay the senescence of leaves and promote the expansion of cotyledons. 
AS PER WIKI:
There are two types of cytokinins: adenine-type cytokinins represented by kinetin, zeatin and *6-benzylaminopurine (mentioned)*, as well as phenylurea-type cytokinins like diphenylurea or thidiazuron (TDZ). The adenine-type cytokinins are synthesised in stems, leaves and roots, which is the major site.Cambiumand possibly other actively dividing tissues are also sites of cytokinin biosynthesis.There is no evidence that the phenylurea cytokinins occur naturally in plant tissues. Cytokinins are involved in both local and long distance signalling, the latter of which involves the same _in planta_ transport mechanism as used for transport of purines and nucleosides.
retail names:
6-Furfurylaminopurine (Kinetin), Para-Aminobenzoic Acid, trans-Zeatin, Thidiazuron (TDZ), Zeatin Riboside

*Cytokinin Functions* 
A list of some of the known physiological effects caused by cytokinins are listed below. The response will vary depending on the type of cytokinin and plant species (Davies, 1995; Mauseth, 1991; Raven, 1992; Salisbury and Ross, 1992). 
Stimulates cell division. 
Stimulates morphogenesis (shoot initiation/bud formation) in tissue culture. 
Stimulates the growth of lateral buds-release of apical dominance. 
Stimulates leaf expansion resulting from cell enlargement. 
May enhance stomatal opening in some species. 
Promotes the conversion of etioplasts into chloroplasts via stimulation of chlorophyll synthesis. 
*6-BENZYLAMINOPURINE*

Effects are Latrial growth giving it thicker and stronger stems, healthier and larger leaves (more surface area to capture light) at 300 ppm. Plant will have more branches, foliar spray of 2000ppm. The advantage is that you don't need to pinch of the plants growing tip (thus decreasing the gibberrelins), the plant stays healthy and doesn't stop growing to repair the tip. But dosent gain hieght.

Another big bonus. If you spray MJ with 300ppm at the end of the 4th week of flowring there is a dramatic increase in bud growth. Combined with the earlier spraying of Brassinlide , the end result is outstanding in terms of quality and yield.

AS PER WIKI:
*6-Benzylaminopurine*, *benzyl adenine* or *BAP* is a first-generation synthetic cytokinin which elicits plant growth and development responses, setting blossoms and stimulating fruit richness by stimulating cell division. It is an inhibitor of respiratory kinase in plants, and increases post-harvest life of green vegetables.
6-benzylaminopurine was first synthetized and tested in the laboratories of plant physiologist Folke K. Skoog.
retail names:
6-(y,y-dimethylallylamino)purine (2ip). 6-Benzylaminopurine (6-BA, BA, BAP), 2-carboxylphenyl 3-phenyIpropane 1,3-dione (CPD), 

Ethylene
Ethylene is a simple gaseous hydrocarbon produced from an amino acid and appears in most plant tissues in large amounts when they are stressed. It diffuses from its site of origin into the air and affects surrounding plants as well. Large amounts ordinarily are produced by roots, senescing flowers, ripening fruits, and the apical meristem of shoots. Auxin increases ethylene production, as does ethylene itselfsmall amounts of ethylene initiate copious production of still more. Ethylene stimulates the ripening of fruit and initiates abscission of fruits and leaves. (this is really intresting could be whats in LAFEMME ) *In monoecious plants (those with separate male and female flowers borne on the same plant), gibberellins and ethylene concentrations determine the sex of the flowers: Flower buds exposed to high concentrations of ethylene produce carpellate flowers, while gibberellins induce staminate ones.*

WIKIPEDIA DEF:Ethylene is produced at a faster rate in rapidly growing and dividing cells, especially in darkness. New growth and newly-germinated seedlings produce more ethylene than can escape the plant, which leads to elevated amounts of ethylene, inhibiting leaf expansion. As the new shoot is exposed to light, reactions by photochrome in the plant's cells produce a signal for ethylene production to decrease, allowing leaf expansion. Ethylene affects cell growth and cell shape; when a growing shoot hits an obstacle while underground, ethylene production greatly increases, preventing cell elongation and causing the stem to swell. The resulting thicker stem can exert more pressure against the object impeding its path to the surface. If the shoot does not reach the surface and the ethylene stimulus becomes prolonged, it affects the stems natural geotropic response, which is to grow upright, allowing it to grow around an object. Studies seem to indicate that ethylene affects stem diameter and height: When stems of trees are subjected to wind, causing lateral stress, greater ethylene production occurs, resulting in thicker, more sturdy tree trunks and branches. Ethylene affects fruit-ripening: Normally, when the seeds are mature, ethylene production increases and builds-up within the fruit, resulting in a climacteric event just before seed dispersal. The nuclear protein ETHYLENE INSENSITIVE2 (EIN2) is regulated by ethylene production, and, in turn, regulates other hormones including ABA and stress hormones


*Ethylene *
http://www.biology-online.org/11/10_...t_hormones.htm
The hormone ethylene is responsible for the ripening of fruits. Unlike the other four classes of plant hormones, ethylene is a gas at room temperature. Ethylene gas diffuses easily through the air from one plant to another. The saying "One bad apple spoils the barrel" has its basis in the effects of ethylene gas. One rotting apple will produce ethylene gas, which stimulates nearby apples to ripen and eventually spoil because of over ripening. 
Ethylene is usually applied in a solution of ethephon, a synthetic chemical that breaks down and releases ethylene gas. It is used to ripen bananas, honeydew melons and tomatoes. Oranges, lemons, and grapefruits often remain green when they are ripe. Although the fruit tastes good, consumers often will not buy them, because oranges are supposed to be orange, right? The application of ethylene to green citrus fruit causes the development of desirable citrus colors, such as orange and yellow. In some plant species, ethylene promotes abscission, which is the detachment of leaves, flowers, or fruits from a plant. Cherries and walnuts are harvested with mechanical tree shakers. Ethylene treatment increases the number of fruits that fall to the ground when the trees are shaken. Leaf abscission is also an adaptive advantage for the plant. Dead, damaged or infected leaves drop to the ground rather than shading healthy leaves or spreading disease. The plant can minimize water loss in the winter, when the water in the plant is often frozen. 
*Ethylene Gas C2H4*

A flammable, colorless, Gas with a characteristic sweet odor
Technical Data
Mol. Wt.: 28.05
Sp. Volume: 13.8 cf/lb
Flammability Limits: 13.1-32% in Air
Toxicity: Simple asphyxiant
Compatibility: Noncorrosive
Valve outlet: CGA 350, LB CGA 170Shipping Information
DOT Name: Ethylene, Compressed
Hazard Class: 2.1
DOT No.: UN 1962
DOT Label: Flammable Gas
CAS No.: 74-85-1_source: __http://www.specialgas.com/ethylene.htm_
------------------------------------

Ethylene gas (C2H4) is an odorless, colorless gas that exists in 

nature and is also created by man-made sources. 
Not easily detectable, it exists where produce is stored. In nature, the largest producers are plant and plant products (ie. fruits, vegetables and floral products) which produce ethylene within their tissues and release it into the surrounding atmosphere. It is also a by-product of man-made processes, such as combustion.
As is often the case, the role of ethylene and its effects on produce was discovered by accident. . .( I found that too later in post)

Ethylene, also known as the 'death' or 'ripening hormone' plays a regulatory role in many processes of plant growth, development and eventually death. Fruits, vegetables and flowers contain receptors which serve as bonding sites to absorb free atmospheric ethylene molecules. The common practice of placing a tomato, avocado or banana in a paper bag to hasten ripening is an example of the action of ethylene on produce. Increased levels of ethylene contained within the bag, released by the produce itself, serves as a stimulant after reabsorption to initiate the production of more ethylene. The overall effect is to hasten ripening, aging and eventually spoilage. A refrigerator acts in much the same way. Kept closed to retain the desired temperature, it also enables an increased concentration of ethylene to accumulate. Any closed environment, such as a truck trailer, shipping container or warehouse, will have a similar effect.
_source: __http://www.marathonproducts.com/products/ethyover.html__ 27jul01_

So the Closed/sealed grow room comes into play again, Considering the greater success from The SEALED room concept, then would it not be hard to pin Ethylene as a major contributing factor as well as the Co2 injected. If sealed the plant will naturally produce it and the room sealsit increasing over time you WILL HAVE A SATURATION TOWARD END OF FLOWER, HELPING WITH IT ABSCISSION AND MATURITY. 

*THIS WAS INTRESTING:*
*Ethylene Sensitivity Chart*
N=None 
H=High
L=Low
M=Medium
VH=Very High
VL=Very Low 
a.Temperature C / F>> b. Ethylene Production>> c. Ethylene Sensitivity

ie: Apple (non-chilled)a. 1.1 / 30 =TEMP b.VH = production c. H = sensitivity 

Fruits & Vegetables
Apple (non-chilled) 1.1 / 30 VH H Apple (chilled) 4.4 / 40 VH H Apricot -0.5 / 31 H H Artichoke 0 / 32 VL L Asian Pear 1.1 / 34 H H Asparagus 2.2 / 36 VL M (Toughness) Avocado (California) 3.3 / 38 H H Avocado (Tropical) 10.0 / 50 H H Banana 14.4 / 58 M H Beans (Lima) 0 / 32 L M Beans (Snap/Green) 7.2 / 45 L M Belgian Endive 2.2 / 36 VL M Berries (Blackberry) -0.5 / 31 L L (Mold) Berries (Blueberry) -0.5 / 31 L L (Mold) Berries (Cranberry) 2.2 / 36 L L (Mold) Berries (Currants) -0.5 / 31 L L (Mold) Berries (Dewberry) -0.5 / 31 L L (Mold) Berries (Elderberry) -0.5 / 31 L L (Mold) Berries (Gooseberry) -0.5 / 31 L L (Mold) Berries (Loganberry) -0.5 / 31 L L (Mold) Berries (Raspberry) -0.5 / 31 L L (Mold) Berries (Strawberry) -0.5 / 31 L L (Mold) Breadfruit 13.3 / 56 M M Broccoli 0 / 32 VL H (Yellowing) Brussel Sprouts 0 / 32 VL H Cabbage 0 / 32 VL H Cantalope 4.4 / 40 H M Cape Gooseberry 12.2 / 54 L L Carrots (Topped) 0 / 32 VL L (Bitterness) Casaba Melon 10.0 / 50 L L Cauliflower 0 / 32 VL H Celery 0 / 32 VL M Chard 0 / 32 VL H Cherimoya 12.8 / 55 VH H Cherry (Sour) -0.5 / 31 VL L (Softening) Cherry (Sweet) -1.1 / 30 VL L (Softening) Chicory 0 / 32 VL H Chinese Gooseberry 0 / 32 L H Collards 0 / 32 VL M Crenshaw Melon 10.0 / 50 M H Cucumbers 10.0 / 50 L H (Yellowing) Eggplant 10.0 / 50 L L Endive (Escarole) 0 / 32 VL M Feijoa 5.0 / 41 M L Figs 0 / 32 M L Garlic 0 / 32 VL L (Odor) Ginger 13.3 / 56 VL L Grapefruit (AZ,CA,FL,TX) 13.3 / 56 VL M (Mold) Grapes -1.1 / 30 VL L (Mold) Greens (Leafy) 0 / 32 VL H (Russet Spotting) Guava 10 / 50 L M Honeydew 10 / 50 M H Horseradish 0 / 32 VL L Jack Fruit 13.3 / 56 M M Kale 0 / 32 VL M Kiwi Fruit 0 / 32 L H Kohlrabi 0 / 32 VL L Leeks 0 / 32 VL M Lemons 12.2 / 54 VL M (Mold) Lettuce (Butterhead) 0 / 32 L M (Russet Spotting) Lettuce (Head/Iceberg) 0 / 32 VL H (Russet Spotting) Lime 12.2 / 54 VL M (Mold Degreen) Lychee 1.7 /35 M M Mandarine 7.2 / 45 VL M Mango 13.3 / 56 M H Mangosteen 13.3 / 56 M H Mineola 3.3 / 38 L L Mushrooms 0 / 32 L M Nectarine -0.5 / 31 H H Okra 10.0 / 50 L M Olive 7.2 / 45 L M Onions (Dry) 0 / 32 VL L (Odor) Onions (Green) 0 / 32 VL M Orange (CA,AZ) 7.2 / 45 VL M Orange (FL,TX) 2.2 / 36 VL M Papaya 12.2 / 54 H H Paprika 10.0 / 50 L L Parsnip 0 / 32 VL L Parsley 0 / 32 VL H Passion Fruit 12.2 / 54 VH H Peach -0.5 / 31 H H Pear (Anjou,Bartlett/Bosc) 1.1 / 30 H H Pear (Prickley) 5.0 / 41 N L Peas 0 / 32 VL M Pepper (Bell) 10.0 / 50 L L Pepper (Chile) 10.0 / 50 L L Persian Melon 10.0 / 50 M H Persimmon (Fuyu) 10.0 / 50 L H Persimmon (Hachiya) 0.5 / 41 L H Pineapple 10.0 / 50 L L Pineapple (Guava) 5.0 / 41 M L Plantain 14.4 / 58 L H Plum/Prune -0.5 / 31 M H Pomegranate 5.0 / 41 L L Potato (Processing) 10.0 / 50 VL M (Sprouting) Potato (Seed) 4.4 / 40 VL M Potato (Table) 7.2 / 45 VL M Pumpkin 12.2 / 54 L L Quince -0.5 / 31 L H Radishes 0 / 32 VL L Red Beet 2.8 / 37 VL L Rambutan 12.2 / 54 H H Rhubard 0 / 32 VL L Rutabaga 0 / 32 VL L Sapota 12.2 / 54 VH H Spinach 0 / 32 VL H Squash (Hard Skin) 12.2 / 54 L L Squash (Soft Skin) 10.0 / 50 L M Squash (Summer) 7.2 / 45 L M Squash (Zucchini) 7.2 / 45 N N Star Fruit 8.9 / 48 L L Swede (Rhutabaga) 0 / 32 VL L Sweet Corn 0 / 32 VL L Sweet Potato 13.3 / 56 VL L Tamarillo 0 / 32 L M Tangerine 7.2 / 45 VL M Taro Root 7.2 / 45 N N Tomato (Mature/Green) 13.3 / 56 VL H Tomato (Brkr/Lt Pink) 10.0 / 50 M H Tree-Tomato 3.9 / 39 H M Turnip (Roots) 0 / 32 VL L Turnip (Greens) 0 / 32 VL H Watercress 0 / 32 VL H Watermelon 10,0 / 50 L H Yam 13.3 / 56 VL L Live Plants Cut Flowers (Carnations) 0 / 32 VL H (Sleepiness) Cut Flowers (Chrysanthemums) 0 / 32 VL H Cut Flowers (Gladioli) 2.2 / 36 VL H Cut Flowers (Roses) 0 / 32 VL H (Open Sooner) Potted Plants -2.8-18.3 / 27-65 VL H Nursery Stock -1.1-4.4 / 30-40 VL H (Slower Start) Christmas Trees 0 / 32 N N Flowers Bulbs (Bulbs/ 7.2-15 / 45-59 VL H Corms/Rhizomes/Tubers) 



*Ethylene* is a plant hormone that differs from other plant hormones in being a gas. It has the molecular structure: H2C=CH2 When fruits approach maturity, they release ethylene. Ethylene promotes the ripening of fruit. Among the many changes that ethylene causes is the destruction of chlorophyll. With the breakdown of chlorophyll, the red and/or yellow pigments in the cells of the fruit are unmasked and the fruit assumes its ripened color. 
How the role of ethylene was discovered.
As is so often the case in science, the discovery of the role of ethylene was made by accident. When first harvested, lemons are often too green to be acceptable in the market. In order to hasten the development of a uniform yellow color, lemon growers used to store newly-harvested lemons in sheds kept warm with kerosene stoves. When one grower tried a more modern heating system, he found that his lemons no longer turned yellow on time. Research soon found that the important factor in the ripening process was small amounts of ethylene gas given off by the burning kerosene in the heatersm
http://www.ultranet.com/~jkimball/Bi.../Ethylene.html 
*Discovery*


1901 Neljubow in St. Petersburg Russia: 
Coal gas = illuminating gas in cities (gas lights) 
Causes triple response: dwarf stem, fat stem, agravitropism in stem in peas also leaf abscission in nearby trees 
Identified ethylene from the gas as the causative agent. (OLDEST IDENTIFIED GROWTH REGULATOR)
1910 *Oranges cause bananas to ripen prematurely (natural ethylene?) *

1934 Ethylene is a natural product (plant hormone?) 
*Forgotten for many years as possible hormone....* 
1959 Burg & Thimann rediscover old research and begin studies showing ethylene as possible hormone 


*What is ethylene Synthesis:*

Methionine->S-adenosylmethionine->aminocyclopropanecarboxylic acid->ethylene 
Pathway elucidated completely in 1979 (Adams & S. F. Yang)
ACC synthase (usually limiting enzyme in path)
Ethylene Forming Enzyme (sometimes limiting, esp fruit senescence) 
*Degradation:*

Ethylene -> Ethylene oxide C2H4O -> oxalic acid HOOC-COOH -> 2 CO2 

Transport:Gas generally diffuses rapidly but not under waterlogging immersion.
ACC is transported in nonpolar way 

Adsorption on charcoal and KMnO4 (potassium permanganate) 
Ventilation important! 
Conjugation:ACC ---> Malonyl ACC--NOT STORAGE...irreversible 

Pool Size:1 uL/L (= 1 ppm) is active in most responses 

*Stress and IAA stimulate ethylene* biosynthesis at ACC synthase 
Receptors: Bind Ag+ ions and CO2 as well as C2H4 and contains Cu cofactor 
(IAA as we know as Rooting hormone)
*EFFECTS*


Fruit Ripening 
Abscission; leaf flower fruits (thinning, harvesting) 
Epinasty 
Triple Resonses 
Hook Closure Maintenance 
Initiates Germination in Grains 
Activates dormant buds (potatoes in storage) 
Stem elongation in deep-water rice 
Induces Flowering in Pineapple 
Promotes Female Expression in Flowers Flower and Leaf Senescence: Ag preventative (vase life)
http://koning.ecsu.ctstateu.edu/Plan.../ethylene.html 


Ethylene was used medically as a anesthetic in concentrations 

significantly greater than that found in a ripening room. However, ethylene is often targeted as the reason for difficulty in breathing in ripening rooms; what can affect some people is usually either:
a) Carbon Dioxide (CO2,) levels: CO2, is produced by the ripening fruit in the room and levels increase over time, or
b) Oxygen levels: The oxygen in the room when loaded is taken in by the ripening fruit. This sometimes will make breathing in a ripening room difficult. The increased CO2, and decreased oxygen levels are the main reasons for venting the ripening room.
It will permeate through produce cardboard shipping boxes, wood and even concrete walls.
While ethylene is invaluable due to its ability to initiate the ripening process in several fruits, it can also be very harmful to many fruits, vegetables, flowers, and plants by accelerating the aging process and decreasing the product quality and shelf life. The degree of damage depends upon the concentration of ethylene, length of exposure time, and product temperature. One of the following methods should be used to ensure that ethylene-sensitive produce is not exposed: a) Ethylene producing items (such as apples, avocados, bananas, melons, peaches, pears, and tomatoes) should be stored separately from ethylene-sensitive ones (broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, leafy greens, lettuce, etc.). Also, ethylene is emitted by engines. Propane, diesel, and gasoline powered engines all produce ethylene in amounts large enough to cause damage to the ethylene-sensitive produce items mentioned; b) Ventilate the storage area, preferably to the outside of the warehouse, on a continuous or regular basis to purge the air of any ethylene; c) Remove ethylene with ethylene absorbing filters. These have been proven in reducing and maintaining low ethylene levels. If ethylene damage is suspected, a quick and easy way to detect ethylene levels is with hand held sensor tubes. This will indicate if the above steps should be followed.
Ethylene is explosive at high temperatures. When using as directed the products of Catalytic Generators, reaching the explosive level is not possible. The explosive level is about 200 times greater than that found in ripening rooms. As a matter of fact, it would take 20 - 30 of the Easy-Ripe Generators on the highest setting in a one-load room to reach this level.
Ethylene was used historically as an important anesthetic until less flammable compounds were developed. It is a colorless gas with a sweet ether-like odor. As an anesthetic, it was used as a concentration of 85% with 15% oxygen. Ethylene is a hydrocarbon gas and quite flammable and explosive at concentrations above about 3%. Remember, a non-toxic anesthetic for humans at a concentration of 85% or higher, yet as a fruit ripening hormone,* ethylene gas is effective at 0.1 to 1 ppm*. One part of ethylene per million parts of air that's one cupful of ethylene gas in 62,000 gallons of air - is enough to promote the ripening process in fruits.
Using tomatoes as an example, the life of a tomato fruit begins with fertilization of the flower ovules. After fertilization, the young fruit goes through a short period of cell division which is then followed by a rapid period of growth as these cells enlarge. During the final stages of growth and development, the tomato fruit reaches its full size and is now mature. This period of growth and development, from fertilization to development of the mature fruit, requires about 45-55 days, depending on the cultivar and the season. During the growth and development period, there are many chemical and physical changes occurring that have an impact on fruit quality and ripening behavior after harvest. Ripening is the final stage of the maturation process when the fruit changes color, and develops the flavor, texture and aroma that makes up what we define as optimum eating quality. The biological agent that initiates this ripening process after the fruit is mature is naturally produced ethylene - this simple plant hormone described and understood over 40years ago. While there are other factors involved in this "triggering" of the ripening process by ethylene, it is essentially a universal ripening hormone. When this internal concentration of naturally produced ethylene increases to about 0.1 - 1.0 ppm, the ripening process is irreversibly initiated. The process may be glowed, but it cannot be reversed once it is truly under way. So, here is the key point: additional and externally applied ethylene, provided prior to the time that the naturally produced internal concentration reaches the required 0.1 - 1.0 ppm level, will trigger or initiate - "promote" if you will - this natural ripening process at an earlier time.
The additional externally applied ethylene (the "gassing" so frequently referred to in the popular press) merely accelerates the normal ripening process. Numerous studies have shown that there are no important biochemical, chemical, or physiological differences between fruit ripened where the naturally produced ethylene has been the triggering mechanism or where additionally externally applied ethylene has triggered the process in the mature but unripe fruit.
For example, tomato fruit are not and cannot be "artificially reddened" by ethylene. The normal tomato ripening process, which includes pigment changes - the loss of green chlorophyll and conversion of carotenoids into red lycopene pigments - can be accelerated and brought about earlier by externally applied ethylene, but this is a normal process. In fact, some of the components of nutritional quality, such as Vitamin C content, benefit because of the fact that the fruits will be consumed after a shorter time interval from harvest as a result of ethylene treatments and hence, the initial level will not have degraded as far as the longer, unaccelcratcd process. Ethylene is actually used commercially on only a few crops, including: (a) bananas, (b) for removing the green color from citrus fruits, (e) almost all honeydew melons, and (d) to a limited extent, with tomatoes.
*Ethephon* is the trade name of a plant growth regulator (basic manufacturer Rhône-Poulenc). Upon metabolism by the plant, it is converted into ethylene, a potent regulator of plant growth and maturity. It is often used on wheat, coffee, tobacco, cotton and rice in order to help the plant's fruit reach maturity more quickly. In cotton, which initiates fruiting over a period of several weeks, ethephon is used to make all bolls open simultaneously in order to enhance harvest efficiency.
Although many environmental groups worry about toxicity resulting from use of growth hormones and fertilizers, the toxicity of ethephon is actually very low, and any ethephon used on the plant material is converted very quickly to ethylene. Im not sure on getting the stuff yet... But plenty around.. Could this be the next CARBON type boost ??


MAKEING GIRLS!!!!!

CARBOHYDRATE-NITROGEN RATIOS WITH RESPECT TO THE SEXUAL EXPRESSION OF HEMP
- use of ethlyene
- real intresting read...


http://www.pubmedcentral.nih.gov/pag...01&pageindex=1


*----------------------------------------------------------- *

*VITIMANS....................*

WIKI:
*Thiamin* or *thiamine*, also known as *vitamin B1* and *aneurine hydrochloride*, is the term for a family of molecules sharing a common structural feature responsible for its activity as a vitamin. It is one of the B vitamins. Its most common form is a colorless chemical compound with a chemical formula C12H17N4OS. This form of thiamin is soluble in water, methanol, and glycerol and practically insoluble in acetone, ether, chloroform, and benzene. Another form of thiamin known as TTFD has different solubility properties and belongs to a family of molecules often referred to as fat-soluble thiamins. Thiamin decomposes if heated. Its chemical structure contains a pyrimidine ring and a thiazole ring
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thiamin

Wiki:
*Pyridoxine*
is one of the compounds that can be called vitamin B6, along with Pyridoxal and Pyridoxamine. It differs from pyridoxamine by the substituent at the '4' position. It is often used as 'pyridoxine hydrochloride'.
Water soluble
*B vitamins*
*B1* (Thiamine)* ·* *B2* (Riboflavin)* ·* *B3* (Niacin, Nicotinamide)* ·* *B5* (Pantothenic acid, Dexpanthenol, Pantethine)* ·* *B6* (*Pyridoxine*, Pyridoxal phosphate, Pyridoxamine)
*B7* (Biotin)* ·* *B9* (Folic acid, Folinic acid)* ·* *B12* (Cyanocobalamin, Hydroxocobalamin, Methylcobalamin, Cobamamide)
Other
*C* (Ascorbic acid)* ·* Choline

*Plant Hormones *

_By __Frederick T. Addicott__*__,_ 
_Fullbright Research Scholar, Department of Botany, Victoria University of Wellington_ 








Growth Hormones: Gibberellins. The gibberellins produce effects on growth, particularly cell elongation, which are very similar to the effects of auxin, but they function in situations where auxin does not promote elongation. Although physiological and biochemical knowledge of them is still fragmentary, they are growth factors which are probably hormones and hence should be included here. The chemicals derive their name from the fungus _Gibberella_, from which they can be obtained. Immature seeds are also very rich sources.
One of the most interesting series of experiments with the gibberellins was conducted with a dwarf corn (maize). This particular mutant dwarf had been the subject of an intensive auxin study, and its auxin physiology was found to be completely normal. That is, auxin production, transport and inactivation were identical with those of normal corn, and applications of additional auxin did not affect its growth; the plants never grew more than a few inches tall. However, weekly sprays of gibberellins stimulated the mutant to the normal rate of growth and practically normal appearance. The results of a similar experiment conducted several years earlier, which were at the time puzzling, can now be interpreted as due to gibberellins: an extract from immature bean seeds was applied to a bush variety of beans (_Phaseolus_); the stems then elongated in the manner characteristic of the tall varieties of beans. In other experiments, gibberellins sprayed on pasture grasses have induced abnormally rapid growth.
Another effect of gibberellins is in relation to both growth and flowering. _Hyocyamus_ is one of the typical long-day plants. It grows as a rosette with its leaves clustered about the very short stem until it has been exposed to a period of cold followed by a period of long days. Then the stem rapidly elongates and produces flowers. It has been found that gibberellins can replace the cold treatment; sprays followed by long days stimulate stem elongation with flowering.
Wound Hormone. Following an injury to a plant, the parenchyma cells underlying the injured area are stimulated to divide and form a protective callus. Under the stimulus, cells divide which would otherwise remain intact to the death of the plant. Early experiments showed that if the injured area is washed immediately, cell division is prevented; this suggested that a hormone might be involved. Such a hormone was isolated by Bonner and English. Starting with 100 pounds of string beans they isolated a small amount of a chemical which they called _traumatic acid_ (chemically, _decene dicarboxylic acid_) which is the wound hormone of beans. However, this compound does not stimulate cell division in other species. So there remain other chemicals yet to be identified as wound hormones.
Root Growth Hormones. Knowledge of root growth hormones has come largely from experiments with the culture of isolated roots. The repeated attempts to culture isolated tissues of plants were successful in 1933 with tomato roots and a culture medium consisting of sucrose, salts, and yeast extract. Yeast extract is a very complex mixture of chemicals and attention was immediately given to determination of the active components. These were soon found to be _thiamin_ and _pyridoxin_ which in small amounts (a few parts per million) could completely replace the yeast extract. Thus tomato roots, which in the field would live only a few months, have been kept growing in culture in a synthetic medium since soon after 1933. Thiamin and pyridoxin were first called growth factors, since their role in the intact plant was not known. However, Bonner showed that they are produced in leaves and transported downward to roots, thus establishing them as hormones.
Other experiments showed that _niacin_ is a root growth factor, and is presumably also a root growth hormone. In various combinations thiamin, pyridoxin or niacin will support the indefinite growth of isolated roots of many species. For a few species other factors are required such as the amino acids glycine, lysine and arginine.
Although the roots of many plants will grow rapidly (at rates at least equal to the rates of roots on intact plants) and indefinitely in synthetic culture media, important problems still remain unsolved. One is the culture of isolated roots of monocotyledonous plants. In spite of numerous attempts, these have never been established in culture. Another is the development of the cambium, which has not been induced in roots of established 
cultures. Further, branching of cultured roots is often abnormal. Thus the knowledge of root growth physiology is far from complete and much work lies ahead.
Experiments with root cultures brought to light an important interrelationship of vitamins and hormones. The chemicals thiamin, pyridoxin and niacin are vitamins, necessary in the diet of animals and other heterotrophs for normal growth and maintenance. In the green plant these same chemicals function in the physiological role of hormones. And within the cells of organisms they each function as a part of a vital enzyme. Thus the same chemical may function in any of three physiological roles: *vitamin, hormone, enzyme*.
Leaf Growth Hormone: Phyllocaline. In a search for hormones other than auxin Went performed an extensive series of grafting experiments. He worked with varieties of garden peas which differed markedly in their growth habits. The results showed, for example, that leaves of different varities differed in their ability to stimulate root growth. Similar differences among roots and buds were observed. Went postulated that these differences in growth were the result of differences in production of special hormones by the varieties. One of these postulated hormones was called phyllocaline. It is produced in cotyledons and mature leaves, and stimulates the growth of young leaves. This hormone was isolated and identified as _adenine._ Another property of adenine was later discovered; tissue cultures of plant callus ordinarily grow indefinitely as an undifferentiated, or at best, slightly differentiated mass of cells. In the culture medium adenine stimulates the differentiation of leafy buds.
Adenine too has multiple physiological roles: It is a vitamin B for some organisms and within cells functions as a part of several enzymes and of the energy-storing phosphate compounds. Flowering Hormone: Florigen. Flowering is influenced by many factors including mineral and carbohydrate nutrition, temperature, photoperiod, and a postulated hormone, florigen. This hormone is produced in leaves (under particular conditions) and is transported to buds where it brings about the conversion of a vegetative stem apex to a reproductive stem apex (flower bud). Numerous experiments indicate its existence, but attempts to isolate florigen have not yet been successful. For further discussion of flowering see the recent article by Sussex.
_Reproductive Hormones_. In the lower plants a number of hormones influencing reproductive processes have been described, as well as nutritional factors which can be called _reproductive vitamins._ 
One of the best known examples of reproductive hormones is in a heterothallic species of a water mould, _Achlya_, where Raper in extensive experiments found four hormones: 
Growth Factors. Experiments have demonstrated growth factor requirements for many plant parts. Many, possibly all, of these growth factors are plant hormones, but present knowledge is too fragmentary in most cases to permit positive statements.
_Pollen germination and tube growth factors._ Pollen of some species will germinate and grow well in artificial media; pollen of others will grow poorly or not at all. Stigmatic exudates are usually very stimulatory and presumably provide hormones required by the pollen. Chemicals which have been found to promote germination or tube growth of various species include: boric acid, manganous sulphate, ascorbic acid, aminobenzoic acid, indoleacetic acid, inositol, lactoflavin, guanine, pyridoxin, thiamin.

_Growth factors of tissue and organ cultures._ Since the successful establishment of root cultures, other organs and several types of tissues have been successfully cultured including embryos, shoots, and callus. Often successful culture has required the use of complex mixtures such as malt extract, young seed extracts, or coconut milk. The latter is a potent source of important growth factors; its use has enabled the culture of very small embryos, but the active chemicals in coconut milk have not been identified. Growth factors which have been identified include: ascorbic acid, adenine, biotin, indoleacetic acid, niacin, pantothenic acid, thiamin. It is of interest to note that each of these is already known to have functions as a vitamin and/or hormone.

Growth Inhibiting Hormones. The discussion to this point has dealt with hormones and other factors which in the main promote growth and development. (A few of these, such as auxin, will under some conditions inhibit or retard growth.) In addition, there is now an increasing list of chemicals whose principal function appears to be the inhibition of growth. Since these chemicals are endogenous, often act at very low concentrations, and move from a site of production to a site of action, they should be considered hormones. Only seed germination inhibitors will be mentioned here; knowledge of others is very fragmentary.
_Germination inhibitors_ act variously: (a) to prevent premature seed germination; (b) to extend the period of germination by permitting only a fraction of the seeds to germinate at any one time; and (c) to suppress germination of competing species while permitting germination of a favoured species. Evenari has described over 120 inhibitors; these are produced in fruit pulp, fruit coats, endosperm, seed coats, embryos, leaves, bulbs, and roots. Identified inhibitors include: hydrocyanic acid, ammonia, ethylene, mustard oils, aldehydes, alkaloids, essential oils, lactones, organic acids. It is of interest that an inhibitor can sometimes stimulate germination. Inhibition or stimulation may result from different concentrations, but sometimes one follows the other from the same concentration.
In a few decades the subject of plant hormones has expanded to a broad and amazingly complex field of plant physiology, at least equal in complexity to the field of animal hormones. This research received much of its initial impetus from Sachs' postulate that plant morphogenesus is regulated by specific organ-forming chemicals. Indeed, there is now much evidence on the effects of specific chemicals (or groups of chemicals). However, the impression should not remain that morphogenesis is regulated solely by such chemicals (that is, by hormones or vitamins). Temperature, light, water, mineral nutrients, foods, and other factors are also important in the development of plants and at times one or more of these factors may have a decisive influence on growth, acting either directly or through intermediate effects on plant hormones.
*Growth and Plant Hormones - Plant Biology*
*http://www.biology-online.org/11/10_...t_hormones.htm*



*Growth*

All living organisms begin in the same form: as a single cell. That cell will divide and the resulting cells will continue dividing and differentiate into cells with various roles to carry out within the organism. This is life and plants are no different. Plant growth can be determinate or indeterminate, meaning some plants will have a cycle of growth then a cessation of growth, breakdown of tissues and then death (think of a radish plant or a tomato plant) while others (think of a giant cedar tree) will grow and remain active for hundreds of years. A tomato plant is fairly predictable and is said to have determinate growth, while the cedar tree has indeterminate growing potential. Development refers to the growth and differentiation of cells into tissues, organs and organ systems. This again all begins with a single cell.

*Plant Growth Regulators and Enzymes*

Genetic information directs the synthesis and development of enzymes which are critical in all metabolic process within the plant. Most enzymes are proteins in some form or another, are produced in very minute quantities and are produced on sitemeaning they are not transported from one part of the organism to another. Genetic information also regulates the production of hormones, which will be addressed shortly. The major difference is that hormones are transported from one part of the plant to another as needed. Vitamins vital in the activation of enzymes and are produced in the cytoplasm and membranes of plant cells. Animals and humans utilize plants in order to provide some vitamin resources. In general, hormone and vitamin effects are similar and are difficult to distinguish in plants, and both are referred to in general as plant growth regulators. 

*Groups of Hormones*

Plant hormones are chemical messengers that affect a plant's ability to respond to its environment. Hormones are organic compounds that are effective at very low concentration; they are usually synthesized in one part of the plant and are transported to another location. They interact with specific target tissues to cause physiological responses, such as growth or fruit ripening. Each response is often the result of two or more hormones acting together. 
Because hormones stimulate or inhibit plant growth, many botanists also refer to them as plant growth regulators. Many hormones can be synthesized in the laboratory, increasing the quantity of hormones available for commercial applications. Botanists recognize five major groups of hormones: auxins, gibberellins, ethylene, cytokinins, and abscisic acid. 

*Other Growth Regulators*

Many growth regulators are widely used on ornamental plants. These substances do not fit into any of the five classes of hormones. For example, utility companies all over the country often apply growth retardants, chemicals that prevent plant growth, to trees in order to prevent them from interfering with overhead utility lines. If is less expensive to apply these chemicals than to prune the trees, not to mention safer for the utility workers. Also, azalea growers sometimes apply a chemical to the terminal buds rather than hand-pruning them. Scientists are still searching for a hormone to slow the growth of lawn grass so that it doesn't have to be mowed so often.

*Plant movements*

Plants appear immobile because they are usually rooted in one place. However, time lapse photography reveals that parts of plants frequently move. Most plants move too slowly for the passerby to notice. Plants move in response to several environmental stimuli such as: light, gravity and mechanical disturbances. These movements fall into two groups: tropisms and nastic movements. 

*Tropisms*

A tropism is a plant movement that is determined by the direction of an environmental stimulus. Movement toward an environmental stimulus is called a positive tropism, and movement away from a stimulus is called a negative tropism. Each kind of tropism is named for its stimulus. For example, a plant movement in response to light coming from one particular direction is called a phototropism. The shoot tips of a plant that grow toward the light source are positively phototropic. 
Phototropism
Phototropism, as mentioned, is illustrated by the movement of sprouts in relation to light source direction. Light causes the hormone auxin to move tot he shaded side of the shoot. The auxin causes the cells on the shaded side to elongate more than the cells on the illuminated side. As a result, the shoot bends toward the light and exhibits positive phototropism. In some plant stems, phototropism is not caused by auxin presence or movement. In these instances, light causes the production of a growth inhibitor on the illuminated side of the shoot. Negative phototropism is sometimes seen in vines that climb on flat walls where coiling tendrils have nothing to coil around. These vines have stem tips that grow away from the light, or better put, toward the wall. This brings adventitious roots or adhesive discs in contact with the wall on which they can cling and climb. 
Solar tracking is the motion of leaves or flowers as the follow the suns' movement across the sky. By continuously facing toward a light source, moving or not, the plant maximizes the light available for photosynthesis.

*Thigmotropism*

Thigmotropism is a plant growth response to touching a solid object. Tendrils and stems of vines, such as morning glories, coil when they touch an object. Thigmotropism allows some vines to climb other plants or objects, thus increasing its chance of intercepting light for photosynthesis. It is thought that an auxin and ethylene are involved in this response. 

*Gravitropism*

Gravitropism is a plant growth response to gravity. A root usually grows downward and a stem usually grows upward; that is, roots are positively gravitropic and stems are negatively gravitropic. Like phototropism, gravitropism appears to be regulated by auxins. One hypothesis proposes that when a seedling is placed horizontally, auxins accumulate along the lower sides of the root and the stem. This concentration of auxins stimulates cell elongation along the lower side of the stem, and the stem grows upward. A similar concentration of auxins inhibits cell elongation in the lower side of the root, and thus the root grows downward. 

*Chemotropism*

Chemotropism is a plant growth response to a chemical. After a flower is pollinated, a pollen tube grows down through the stigma and style and enters the ovule through the micropyle. The growth of the pollen tube in response to chemicals produced by the ovule is an excellent example of chemotropism. 

*Nastic Movements*

Plant movements that occur in response to environmental stimuli, but that are independent of the direction of the stimuli are called nastic movements. These movements are regulated by changes in water pressure in certain plant cells.


Growth Stimulants The B-vitamins (1 ppm solution) increase the yield of hempseed and its fat content, but somewhat suppresses the growth of leaves, stems, and seed hulls. Potassium permanganate in weak solutions stimulates the development of cannabis in all its phases. Dilute camphor also stimulates plant growth. Vitamin C (1-5 parts in 10,000 water) has the same effect. The ripening of cannabis flowers can be accelerated by addition of a tablespoon of sugar per gallon of nutrient solution. Do not use this treatment during the initial stages of the flowering cycle, because flowering will be delayed instead. Auxigro, manufactured by the Auxein Corp. (Lansing, MI; www.auxein.com; US Patent 5,840,656) contains 4-aminobutyric acid, L-glutamic acid, etc.). It increases fertilizer efficiency severalfold and improves plant growth up to 50%. Nutrient accumulation also is increased dramatically. Triacontanol is a fatty alcohol found in many plants. It increases growth rates and yields up to 25%, and increases the protein content, even during darkness when plants usually are dormant. Triacontanol seems to enhance the growth of plants without increasing their consumption of nitrogen. The simplest way to use triacontanol is to plow under a crop of alfalfa, which contains relatively large amounts of the substance. Triacontanol is extracted from sunflower seeds or alfalfa by chloroform; filter and evaporate the solution to yield crude triacontanol. The dosage is 1 ppm in water. 
Carbon Dioxide
--- Plants utilize atmospheric carbon dioxide to supply their carbon. The current level of atmospheric CO2 is about 350 ppm. If the level of CO2
in a closed growing space decreases to below 200 ppm, growth will cease. Levels above 2% can be injurious to both plants and animals. When cannabis is cultivated indoors, the rate of growth and photosynthesis can be enhanced by increasing the concentration of carbon dioxide to about 0.2%. The effects are most influential in the second month of growth. The rate of growth can be increased about 50% by increasing the level of CO2 to about 700 ppm. If the level is increased to 1,500 ppm during the vegetative phase, the growth rate will increase up to 80%. The number of females also increases slightly under the influence of CO2 . When extra CO2 is supplied during the flowering phase, the flowers will mature about 2 weeks sooner, and they will increase in weight about 20%. To alculate the amount of CO2 required to enrich a growroom, first select the level of CO2 you desire (assuming 300 ppm atmospheric CO2 ). Multiply the cubic feet of the grow space with the corresponding factor (given below) to determine how many cubic feet of gas are needed to raise the level for each cycle of enrichment. The cycle is repeated as the plants absorb the gas or it is vented outdoors (necessarily when the room temperature rises to 85o
F). Commercially available equipment will do this automatically. For 1,000 ppm, factor (.0007) x cubic feet to determine the requisite volume of gas. 1,100 ppm = (.000; 1,200 ppm = (.0009); 1,300 ppm = (.0010); 1,400 ppm = (.0011); 1,500 ppm = (.0012). 

ref: http://www.scribd.com/doc/6612723/All-About-Hemp
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*A Sketch of an 8 Part Plant Hormone Theory*

BEST READ I HAVE HAD YET !


http://www.planthormones.info/
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*New Group Of Plant Hormones Discovered*

ScienceDaily (Aug. 13, 2008  Scientists from the Wageningen University Laboratory of Plant Physiology and an international team of scientists have discovered a new group of plant hormones, *the so-called strigolactones*. This group of chemicals is known to be involved in the interaction between plants and their environment.
The scientists have now proven that strigolactones, as hormones, are also crucial for the branching of plants. The discovery will soon be published in Nature and is of great importance for innovations in agriculture. Examples include the development of cut flowers or tomato plants with more or fewer branches. These crops are of major economic and social importance worldwide.
The growth and development of plants is largely controlled by plant hormones. Plants produce these chemicals themselves, thus controlling the growth and development of roots and stems, for example. A number of plant hormones, such as auxins, giberellins and cytokinins, were discovered by scientists decades ago. Now a new group of hormones has been found: The so-called strigolactones.
Previous research by institutes including Wageningen UR has shown that strigolactones plays a major part in the interaction between plants and their environment. As plants cannot move, they commonly use their own chemicals to control the environment as best as they can.
Strigolactones are of major importance to the interaction between plants and symbiotic fungi, for example. These fungi live in a symbiotic relationship with plants, lthat is mutually beneficial. They transport minerals from the soil to the plant, while the plant gives the fungi sugars in return.
Unfortunately, the strigolactones have also been hijacked by harmful organisms: They help seeds of parasitic plants to germinate when plant roots are in the vicinity. The seedlings of the parasite attach to the root of the plant and use the plants nutrients for their own growth and reproduction. Unlike the symbiotic fungi, however, they do not give anything in return. On the contrary, the parasitism often causes the host plant to die, eventually.
The international research team consisting of French, Australian and Dutch scientists, coordinated in France, found mutants of pea that were branching without restraint. It turned out that these pea plants were not capable of producing strigolactones. When the plants were administered strigolactones, the unrestrained branching stopped. The same effect occurred in an entirely different plant, thale cress. The mutant plants also caused a significant lower germination of the parasitic plant seeds and induced less interaction with symbiotic fungi.
The scientists also showed that a specific receptor reaction for the strigolactones occurs in plants, a phenomenon that is characteristic for plant hormones. Although some previously discovered plants with unrestrained branching turned out to be producing strigolactones themselves, their receptor connection was disturbed: Strigolactones administered from the outside could not stop the uncontrolled branching.
It has also been shown that the plants are capable of transporting strigolactones internally and that the chemicals work at very low concentrations, two other typical characteristics of plant hormones.
It is expected that this new knowledge will be applied in agriculture and horticulture, for example in breeding and the development of branching regulators.
Cut flower varieties and potted plants with either more or less branching may have special ornamental value, while crops with more or less branching may be beneficial in cultivation. Tomato plants in which less branching occurs can benefit the greenhouse horticulture, for instance.

http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases...0812100327.htm

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Another good read

Genes Key To Hormone Production In Plants Identified
http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases...0403131915.htm
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MY 5 HORMONE PLAN ........... 
Very small concentrations of these substances produce major growth changes. Concentrations of these substances usually are measured in parts per million (ppm) and in some cases parts per billion (ppb). So im still HIGHLY UNSURE of quanties and timeing - it will be trial and error.... giving about 4 plants a month to the cause.......

So Hormones are produced naturally by plants, while plant growth regulators are applied to plants by humans. 
Some of the growth regulators i may be useing are synthetic compounds (e.g., IBA and Cycocel) that mimic naturally occurring plant hormones, or they may be natural hormones that were extracted from plant tissue (e.g., IAA). 
I will use *:*
1. Forms of *Auxin,* it is the active ingredient in most rooting compounds in which cuttings are dipped during vegetative propagation *IAA, IBA*. The forms i will be useing: YATES Cutting powder (*IAA*) and or willow water... During all times of growth a germination. (NOT BUD) in minute quantities

2. *Gibberellins (ga3)* to break seed dormancy, and speed germination. Veg tests also...

3. *NAA* - for fem attributes in seed germ
And on cuttings.....
for application I will probably follow this study
http://resources.metapress.com/pdf-p...5&size=largest

4. *BRASSINOLIDE*
6wks veg for It will increase a plants resistance to stress and will increase production of root mass.

*5. 6-BENZYLAMINOPURINE*
6-8wk veg & 4th week of flowring for bud growth

+ ALL ordinary NUTES.

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Here a couple of sites that sell all of them....
http://www.super-grow.biz/Products.jsp

http://www.mpbio.com/product_info.ph...ucts_id=100912

http://www.chemnet.com/hot-product/6...inopurine.html
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'*Florigen*
Biologists close in on the hormone '*florigen*,' the signal that causes plants to flower....... induced flowering..........???????????...... 

http://www.news.cornell.edu/Chronicl.../florigen.html
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*When each hormone is produced...... *
*Auxin* would be released when a root or shoot meristematic (young) cell finds that it contains more than enough shoot derived nutrients mainly sugar, and all other environmental conditions are favorable for growth. 
*Cytokinin* would be made when meristematic cells are bathed in more than enough nutrients of the sort normally provided by the root, mainly water and minerals and all other conditions are favorable for growth. 
*Gibberellin/Brassinostreroid* would be made when mature cells have less than enough shoot nutrients, i.e. sugar and Oxygen to survive especially if environmental conditions are poor. 
Finally *Ethylene* might be released when mature cells are receiving less than enough nutrients normally received from the roots, mainly minerals and water, to support life at all, thus senescence of the cell is warranted. Again this effect may be accentuated by poor environmental conditions.

*Abscisic Acid* might fulfill the role akin to adrenaline or cortisol in animals, signaling a need emergency action under most kinds of rapidly developing environmental stress, not just water shortages. 
Complimentarily, *Salicylic Acid* may be the hormone released when things are running normally and no special rapid response is needed from the plant. It might be the "feel good" hormone.

Quick summary on what they are:
*Auxin* is the active ingredient in most rooting compounds in which cuttings are dipped during vegetative propagation.
*Gibberellins* stimulate cell division and elongation, break seed dormancy, and speed germination. The seeds of some species are difficult to germinate; you can soak them in a GA solution to get them started.
*cytokinins* stimulate cell division and often are included in the sterile media used for growing plants from tissue culture. If a medium's mix of growth-regulating compounds is high in cytokinins and low in auxin, the tissue culture explant (small plant part) will produce numerous shoots. On the other hand, if the mix has a high ratio of auxin to cytokinin, the explant will produce more roots. Cytokinins also are used to delay aging and death (*senescence*).
*Ethylene* is unique in that it is found only in the gaseous form. It induces ripening, causes leaves to droop (*epinasty*) and drop (*abscission*), and promotes senescence. Plants often increase ethylene production in response to stress, and ethylene often is found in high concentrations within cells at the end of a plant's life. The increased ethylene in leaf tissue in the fall is part of the reason leaves fall off trees. Ethylene also is used to ripen fruit (e.g., green bananas).
*Abscisic acid* (ABA) is a general plant-growth inhibitor. It induces dormancy and prevents seeds from germinating; causes abscission of leaves, fruits, and flowers; and causes stomata to close. High concentrations of ABA in guard cells during periods of drought stress probably play a role in stomatal closure.
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*PGR`s - PLANT GROWTH REGULATORS (man made)/ HORMONES (natural)*

*THIS IS WHAT WHERE WHEN........*

Plant growth regulators (PGRs) are chemicals that are designed to affect plant growth and/or development. They are applied for specific purposes to affect specific plant responses right? 
Although there is [email protected]#k load of scientific information on using PGRs in the greenhouse, it is not an exact science. Achieving the best results with PGRs is a combination of art and science - science tempered with a lot of trial and error and a good understanding of plant growth and development. 

*Selecting and Using Plant Growth Regulators on Floricultural Crops *
Authors: Original is by Joyce G. Latimer, Extension Specialist, Greenhouse Crops; Virginia Tech Publication Number 430-102, November 2001, i have summarized most of it. 
index:
Optimizing Results 
Read the Label
Plant Growth Regulators for Height Control
Plant Growth Regulators for Lateral Branching
Plant Growth Regulators for Flowering Application Guidelines
Treat All Recommendations as Starting Rates for Your Own Trials
Recordkeeping
Costs of PGRs
Conclusions and Rate Recommendations 
Recommended Resource 
Appendix. Helpful conversions


*Optimizing Results*

1. For best results, PGRs should be handled as production tools, like water and fertilizer. 
2. They should not be used as crutches for poor management of other cultural practices. 
3. PGRs should be an integrated part of your crop production cycle.
4. They are most effective when applied at the appropriate times to regulate plant growth or development. In other words, growth retardants cannot "shrink" an overgrown plant. They must be applied before the plant is overgrown to avoid plant stretch. 

THINGS YOU CAN ACHIEVE: 

1. Do you want to reduce the growth rate of the plant, improve its color and general condition (toughness)? If so, you probably want a growth retardant such as B-Nine, Cycocel, A-Rest, Bonzi, or Sumagic. 
2. Do you want to increase plant branching for enhanced cutting production, or for a more bushy potted plant or hanging basket? If so, you probably want to use a branching agent or "chemical pincher" such as Atrimmec, FlorelÆ Brand Pistill (Florel), or Off-Shoot-O. 
3. Do you want to enhance flower initiation or synchronize flowering? If so, you probably want to use Cycocel, Florel, NAA, GibGro, or ProGibb. 

Answering these questions will indicate which type of PGR you need to use to accomplish your goal. It also will determine the most appropriate timing of the application. Then you will need to select a specific PGR in that class and determine the appropriate dosage and the appropriate application method for the selected application. THESE are many Indsutry brands which I intend on useing at some point. As well as the pure forms mentioned in thread.

*Read the Label*

Plant growth regulators are classified as pesticides so use with care...
Is the chemical labeled for the crop you wish to treat? Most of the PGR labels have undergone recent revisions that apply to a broad range of similar crops not specifically listed on the label, with the user taking responsibility for determining appropriate rates. This provides label permission to use the compound on these crops without the manufacturer accepting the responsibility for the rate selection. 
Look for information on the effectiveness and on the side effects (phytotoxicity) of the chemical on your specific crop. B-Nine is considered to be a safe, short-term growth retardant with few phytotoxicity problems. However, it has little effect on growth of petunias and may burn treated leaves of kalanchoe. Begonias are extremely sensitive to Bonzi and Sumagic, and the label warns you to avoid overspray or drift on these crops. 
Notice any label warnings regarding the PGR's effect on plant flowering. Many branching enhancers delay flowering. Florel causes flower bud abscission prior to enhancing branching; therefore, it is not recommended within six to eight weeks of Croping. 
Plant Growth Regulators for Height Control or SOG 
Most of the PGRs used in the greenhouse are used to regulate shoot growth of bedding plants, garden mums, and other containerized crops. These PGRs are referred to as "growth retardants." Typical growth retardants are B-Nine, Cycocel, A-Rest, Bonzi, and Sumagic . These PGRs reduce plant height by inhibiting the production of gibberellins, the primary plant hormones responsible for cell elongation. Therefore, their effects are primarily on stem, petiole and flower stalk tissues. Lesser effects are seen in reductions of leaf expansion, resulting in thicker leaves with darker green color. 

Other benefits of using these PGRs in plant production include improved plant appearance by maintaining plant size and shape in proportion with the pot. Plant growth retardants also increase the stress tolerance.
Remember, growth retardants do not reduce plant size. They reduce the plant's growth rate. You must apply the growth retardant prior to the "stretch." Look for recommendations on the PGR label for time of application. These recommendations will be given in terms of plant development or plant size as opposed to production time. For example, the Sumagic label specifies that pansies should have attained a minimum height of four inches prior to application. The Bonzi label says that bedding plant plugs should be treated at the one to two true leaf stage and bedding plants (after transplanting) at two inches of new growth or when the plants reach marketable size. 
Generally, growth retarding PGRs should be applied just prior to rapid shoot growth. This is usually one to two weeks after transplanting a plug, after the roots are established and as the plant resumes active growth; on pinched plants, it is after the new shoots are visible, just starting to elongate. This is where the art of plant growth regulation is most important. You must learn how your crop grows and when to intervene to obtain the desired results. Remember to note details of crop development in your records of PGR treatments. For example, due to the weather conditions, next year you may need to treat at seven days after transplanting instead of at the ten days after transplanting that you used this year. Gauge when rapid elongation will likely occur and treat to counter it. 
Many growers use multiple applications of growth retardants to better control plant growth. A single application at a high rate early in the plant production cycle may be excessive if growing conditions are not as good as expected. An early application at a lower rate provides more flexibility, but the tradeoff is in the additional labor involved with a second application if it becomes necessary. Some growers improve crop uniformity by using multiple applications of lower rates to affect small corrections in plant growth. 

Be careful to avoid very late applications, especially of Bonzi or Sumagic as they may delay flowering . 
*Plant Growth Regulators for Lateral Branching*

Another group of PGRs used in floricultural crops are those that enhance branching, including Florel, Atrimmec and Off-Shoot-O . These PGRs are frequently called "chemical pinchers" because they generally inhibit the growth of the terminal shoots or enhance the growth of lateral buds, thereby increasing the development of lateral branches. They can be used to replace mechanical pinching of many crops. Often this increased branching also will reduce the overall height of the plant. The ethylene released inside the plant by Florel also inhibits internode elongation, keeping treated plants more compact than untreated plants. Florel also affects flowering (see below). If you are looking for enhanced branching, you must have sufficient growth on the plant to allow for sites of lateral development. They cannot enhance lateral branching if there are no laterals on the plant. Again, read the label for details of when to apply for optimum response. 

You may need to consider combinations of PGRs. For example, if you apply Florel to enhance the branch development of 'Wave' petunias in a hanging basket, you will probably need to follow up with a treatment of a plant growth retardant like Bonzi to control the elongation of those new laterals. Always consider the side effects of treatments. As mentioned in Tables 1 and 2, some of these PGRs affect flowering which is critical to the successful production of floricultural crops. 
*Plant Growth Regulators for Flowering*

Plant growth regulators can be used to enhance flowering (GibGro) or to remove flowers (Florel). To improve flowering, GibGro, which contains the growth promoter gibberellic acid, can be used to substitute for all or part of the chilling requirement of some woody ornamentals typically forced in the greenhouse, including azalea. [A broad use label was submitted for EPA approval in 2001 for Pro-Gibb (Valent USA) which would include camellia, hydrangea, and a variety of other floricultural crops.] Special attention must be given to the stage of flower bud development for successful treatment. In addition to overcoming dormancy, these compounds can improve flowering and/or bloom size of camellia, geranium, cyclamen, spathiphyllum, statice, and calla lily (see product labels for specific uses). Again, timing is critical since late applications, or excessive rates, may cause excessive plant stretching resulting in weak, spindly stems. Cycocel used to control stem height of hibiscus and geranium also improves early flowering. 

Flower removal is especially desirable for stock plants maintained for cuttings of vegetatively propagated ornamentals, like geraniums, fuchsia, begonias, or lantana. Florel (ethephon) is the primary compound used for flower removal. Once ethephon is absorbed by the plant it is converted to gaseous ethylene, a natural plant hormone effective in many plant processes. Ethylene is the primary hormone responsible for flower senescence and fruit ripening. It is the "postharvest" hormone. With proper rates and timing, it will remove unwanted flowers from stock plants or from plugs or young bedding plants. 
Flower removal diverts more energy into vegetative growth, increasing the number of laterals available for cuttings on stock plants, and promoting increased branching of plugs and finished plants, which increases fullness in hanging baskets or other containers. Early flower removal also allows synchronization of flowering of a container for a more dramatic appearance or for flowering on a specific marketing date. Since initiation and development of flowers requires time, Florel should not be used on crops within six to eight weeks of marketing. 
*Application Guidelines*

*Spray Applications.* The pesticide label not only contains information on restrictions but also much information on using the product effectively. The label will identify the target tissue for that PGR - B-Nine is only effective as a foliar spray whereas Bonzi and Sumagic sprays must reach the stems or roots. When making spray applications, look at the physiological development of the plant to see that there is sufficient plant material at the correct stage of growth to make the treatment effective and to accomplish your goal. Generally, there should be sufficient foliage or stems to absorb the PGR. Uptake and effectiveness of a PGR also depend on selecting the application technique that will ensure proper coverage of the target tissue. B-Nine is not soil active and is fairly mobile in the plant. Therefore, a foliar spray application, wetting most of the foliage, will provide a fairly uniform reduction in growth of sensitive crops. 
However, the triazoles, Bonzi and Sumagic, are absorbed primarily by stem tissue and then translocated upwards in the plant. Therefore, consistent and complete coverage of the stems is necessary for uniform effects. In other words, if the stem of one lateral receives an inadequate amount of spray, it will grow faster than the others, resulting in a poorly shaped plant, most noticeable in potted crops like poinsettia or chrysanthemum. The triazoles also are very "soil active" which means they may be adsorbed to particles in the media and become available to the plant through root uptake. Therefore, drenching is a very effective application method for these chemicals in crops where it is economically feasible (see How to Apply Drenches below). 
The label will provide a recommended application volume for sprays or drenches, especially for chemicals that are soil active. All foliar applications of PGRs should be applied on an area basis, i.e., uniformly spray the area where the plants are located with the recommended volume of solution. Do NOT spray individual plants or spray to reach a subjective target like "spray to glistening." Since every applicator will have a slightly different definition of these goals, there will be no way of recommending appropriate rates or obtaining predictable results. For soil active PGRs, dosage equals the concentration of the solution multiplied by the volume applied in the treated area. Therefore, to improve predictability, the label-recommended spray application rates are generally set at 2 qt. finished spray per 100 sq.ft., a comfortable walking pace for applicators with hand-held sprayers. 
Since Bonzi and Sumagic are soil active, precautions should be taken to avoid over-application with sprays. Spray applications require more attention to detail, because overspray material lands or drips onto the medium. Remember that dosage equals concentration times volume. Figure 1 shows the effect of Sumagic application volume on growth of vinca (Catharanthus roseus) at four weeks after treatment. A 1 ppm spray solution of Sumagic was applied at the label recommended volume of 2 qt. per 100 sq. ft., at 3 qt. per 100 sq. ft., or at twice the label rate, 4 qt. per 100 sq. ft. This high volume application was comparable to the amount of spray you might apply "to runoff." These vinca plants were effectively treated with 0, 1, 1.5, or 2 ppm Sumagic (dose = concentration x volume). 
Recognizing that stem coverage is necessary for the triazoles, you may need to apply a higher than recommended volume to large or dense plants to obtain adequate coverage. In fact, the Bonzi label recommends 3 qt per 100 sq.ft. for "larger plants with a well developed canopy." Adjust the concentration you apply accordingly. This suggests the importance of record-keeping (see below). 
*Spray Equipment.* To assure proper spray volumes, your compressed air sprayer should be equipped with a pressure gauge and regulator and you should consistently use the same nozzle for all PGR applications. Your sprayer should be calibrated by determining the output of the chemical with the selected nozzle at the selected pressure within a specified time period. Using this information, you can apply a known amount of material to a known area. Spray droplet size also affects response with smaller droplet sizes providing better coverage, but only up to a point. Mist or fog type applicators do NOT provide adequate volume for coverage of plant stems and have not been effective when used with compounds like Bonzi and Sumagic. 
The way I tested was to capture your spray for a certin period.
*Applying Drenches.* Drenches have several advantages over sprays. Drenches generally have less effect on flower or bract size and tend to provide longer lasting growth regulation than sprays. Drenches are easier to apply uniformly than sprays because the drench volume is easily measured, and when applied to moist media, it is easy to obtain good distribution of the PGR in the media. Therefore, the resulting growth regulation is frequently more uniform. The label specifies the recommended volumes for drench applications to different size pots or types of media. Read the label. In general, 4 fl. oz. of drench solution is applied to a six-inch "azalea" pot, and that volume is adjusted up or down with pot size to obtain a volume where about 10% of the solution runs out the bottom of the pot when the media is moist. 
Remember that the amount of active ingredient applied to plants using soil-active PGRs is a product of the concentration (ppm) of the solution and the volume applied. Label recommendations for drench applications give solution rates (in ppm) and volume recommendations. In some cases, drench application recommendations are given in terms of milligrams of active ingredient (mg a.i.) per pot. For Bonzi, the label provides mixing directions for mg a.i. solutions for Bonzi, or, you can use the NC State University "PGR Calculator" (See Resources below) to obtain solution directions for drench recommendations using this format. 
Other methods of applying PGRs directly to the media have been developed and labeled. For example, Bonzi and A-Rest are labeled for chemigation or application through the irrigation system. These are generally limited to flood (sub-irrigation) or drip irrigation, not overhead sprinkler systems. Again, rates vary with the volumes used and method of application. Bonzi applied once by sub-irrigation requires 50% to 75% of the amount of Bonzi that is applied in a typical drench application. Read and exactly follow the label for chemigation applications. 
*Other Types of PGR Applications.* Three other methods of providing a drench type application of soil-active PGRs on a more economical scale are being used by growers. One is media surface application sprays. These are spray applications made to the surface of the media of filled flats or pots. The treatment is applied at normal to high spray volumes, but since it is applied to the media surface it is activated by irrigation and is available to the plant in the root zone. Both Bonzi and Sumagic are labeled for this method of application. Rates are lower than used for sprays, but higher than used for drench applications. 
A second method is called "*sprenches*" which is a high volume foliar spray that results in runoff into the media, providing a drench effect. Rates are lower than those recommended for sprays. 
A third technique is called "*watering in*" where the PGR, A-Rest and Bonzi are currently labeled, is injected into the irrigation water and applied in each irrigation at very low rates of active ingredient. 
All of these application methods use the relationship between rate and volume to provide the desired control and preferred application methods. Again, you must develop techniques that fit your production methods and your growth management preferences. 
*Beware of Bark.* For all media applications, be aware that soil-active PGRs tend to be tied up by bark particles in the media which makes it less available to the plants. Therefore, if your media mix is high in bark you will need to compensate for this unavailability by adjusting your application rates up for any type of drench or media applications. 
Growing Conditions. Look also for label recommendations on time of day or condition of the plant for optimum treatment response. Generally, a healthy, unstressed plant growing under low evaporative conditions, e.g., early in the morning or late in the afternoon, is most responsive to treatment. To maximize uptake, the chemical must remain in contact with the leaf long enough to be absorbed. This time varies for the different PGRs. Plants treated with B-Nine or Florel should not be overhead irrigated for at least 12 hours after treatment, but plants treated with Bonzi or Sumagic may be irrigated one hour after treatment. Spraying when the treatment will not dry quickly increases absorption of the active ingredients and increases the effectiveness of the treatment. Read the label for any warnings on how irrigation or environmental conditions will affect plant response to the PGR treatment. 
*Treat All Recommendations as Starting Rates for Your Own Trials*

The multitude of variations possible in application methods, cultivar and species grown, and growing conditions make it impossible to recommend specific rates for all operations. There are a couple of general rules for using rate recommendations from other sources: 
Southern growers use higher rates and more frequent applications than Northern growers. Rates for Virginia tend be closer to the Southern rates. 
Outdoor applications usually require higher rates or more frequent applications than for plants grown inside the greenhouse. 
*Recordkeeping*

Making notes on your application methods and the results of your PGR treatments will allow you to improve the consistency of your own application methods and establish rates and volumes appropriate to your production system. Note the concentration and the volume applied, the stage of development of the crop (number of leaves, approximate height, presence of flowers), and the environmental conditions under which the PGR was applied. It is always helpful to keep a few untreated plants for comparison, especially if you are new to using PGRs. 

*Costs of PGRs*

Also consider the cost of the various plant growth regulators in developing your production program. You will need to add your labor and equipment costs to calculate the PGR application costs in your operation. You also will want to consider the costs of multiple applications vs. single applications when determining which PGR to use in a given situation. 

*Conclusions and Rate Recommendations *

*Plant growth regulators are valuable production tools that can enhance product quality and marketability while reducing labor for pinching and/or pruning and plant maintenance. They must be used with proper attention to other cultural practices, especially proper fertility and irrigation management. Plant growth regulators cannot correct poor production practices. *

Plant growth regulator recommendations for a wide variety of floricultural crops are listed. These rates are label recommended rates and should be evaluated under your own growing conditions. For more information on rates for herbaceous perennials see VCE Publication 430-103, Using Plant Growth Regulators on Containerized Herbaceous Perennials. 
*Recommended Resource*

For a ready resource on preparing PGR solutions, download the North Carolina State University Plant Growth Regulator Calculator from: 

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/f...tware/pgr.html 
software allows growers to calculate the amounts of A-Rest, Atrimmec, B-Nine, Bonzi, Cycocel, Dazide, Downsize, Facination, Florel, Fresco, GibGro, Paczol, Piccolo, ProGibb, Sumagic, or Topflor needed to create any spray or drench solution you desire. If you enter your costs for each PGR, it will also calculate your materials cost per application as well as per plant treated. By entering plant dimensions and application rate per unit area, it will calculate the amount of active ingredient each plant received during application 
*Appendix. Helpful conversions.*

*Volume*
1 gallon (gal) = 128 fluid ounces (fl oz)
1 fl oz = 30 milliliters (ml)
1 gal = 3785 ml = 3.785 liters
1 cup = 48 teaspoons
1 tablespoon = 3 teaspoons
1 fl oz = 2 tablespoons = 6 teaspoons


*Weight*
1 ounce (oz) = 28.3 grams (g)
1 pound (lb) = 16 oz = 454 g

*Concentration*
1% = 10,000 ppm
1 ppm = 1 milligram (mg) per liter

*DATA SHEETS ON PGR`s (or man made hormones)*

*antiauxins* 
clofibric acid 
2,3,5-tri-iodobenzoic acid 
*auxins* 
4-CPA 
2,4-D 
2,4-DB 
2,4-DEP 
dichlorprop 
fenoprop 
IAA 
IBA 
naphthaleneacetamide 
&#945;-naphthaleneacetic acid 
1-naphthol 
naphthoxyacetic acid 
potassium naphthenate 
sodium naphthenate 
2,4,5-T 
*cytokinins* 
2iP 
benzyladenine 
kinetin 
zeatin 
*defoliants* 
calcium cyanamide 
dimethipin 
endothal 
ethephon 
merphos 
metoxuron 
pentachlorophenol 
thidiazuron 
tribufos 
*ethylene inhibitors* 
aviglycine 
1-methylcyclopropene 
*ethylene releasers* 
ACC 
etacelasil 
ethephon 
glyoxime 
*gibberellins* 
gibberellins 
gibberellic acid 
*growth inhibitors* 
abscisic acid 
ancymidol 
butralin 
carbaryl 
chlorphonium 
chlorpropham 
dikegulac 
flumetralin 
fluoridamid 
fosamine 
glyphosine 
isopyrimol 
jasmonic acid 
maleic hydrazide 
mepiquat 
piproctanyl 
prohydrojasmon 
propham 


2,3,5-tri-iodobenzoic acid 
*morphactins* 
chlorfluren 
chlorflurenol 
dichlorflurenol 
flurenol 
*growth retardants* 
chlormequat 
daminozide 
flurprimidol 
mefluidide 
paclobutrazol 
tetcyclacis 
uniconazole 
*growth stimulators* 
brassinolide 
forchlorfenuron 
hymexazol 
*unclassified plant growth regulators* 
benzofluor 
buminafos 
carvone 
ciobutide 
clofencet 
cloxyfonac 
cyanamide 
cyclanilide 
cycloheximide 
cyprosulfamide 
epocholeone 
ethychlozate 
ethylene 
fenridazon 
heptopargil 
holosulf 
inabenfide 
karetazan 
lead arsenate 
methasulfocarb 
prohexadione 
pydanon 
sintofen 
triapenthenol 
trinexapac 
*Here is a couple of PGR products ive been looking at.....*

*Dazide *has numerous uses, the most important being to regulate plant size by reducing the length of internodes. A more compact plant has greater stem strength resulting in less breakage during shipping and handling. *Dazide* also reduces apical dominance, encouraging the development of early terminal buds that branch profusely. Treated plants have a compact growth habit and enhanced flower bud formation. 
*Dazide *treated plants also tend to have deeper green foliage and a more developed root system. The latter provides firmer anchorage and better nutrient and moisture extracting capability. Consequently, plants are less likely to wilt and can recover more quickly from the stress of transplanting. *Dazide *is effective in a wide variety of ornamentals, including chrysanthemums, gardenias, azaleas, hydrangeas and poinsettias, along with petunias, marigolds and other flowering and foliage plant species. While the specific effects of *Dazide* vary with the situation, the results generated are very predictable and consistent, producing plants that look and sell at their best all year round.
*http://www.fine-agrochemicals.com/DocFrame/DocView.asp?id=308&sec=-1*



*Falgo *contains gibberellic acid (GA3). Gibberellins are compounds that are naturally produced within plants to stimulate growth. *Fine *has developed a unique fermentation method of naturally producing GA3 and markets the compound for use in ornamental plants as *falgro*. *Falgro *has a huge variety of useful applications including elongation of peduncles in Pompom Chrysanthemums, earlier flowering and increased yield in Statice and accelerated plant growth with increased number of flowering stems in Gypsophila. Offering flexibility of use, *falgro *is formulated as easy to use liquid, powder and tablet formulations.
http://www.fine-agrochemicals.com/Co...rodH.asp?id=21


*Pirouette *regulates height and diameter in ornamental plants by reducing internode elongation due to inhibition of gibberellin biosynthesis. *Pirouette* enhances the quality of bedding plants, flowering and foliage plants, bulb crops, perennials and woody ornamentals making them easier to market and more profitable to produce. *Pirouette *helps to produce attractive plants that are easier to handle and transport by producing more compact and sturdier plants.
*Pirouette *helps growers manage the marketing of plants by allowing control of growth rates to meet increasingly stringent customer led specifications. 
http://www.fine-agrochemicals.com/Co...rodH.asp?id=86

FALGRO...... Not that expensive..... comes in large quantities and I need SFA....
*Falgo *contains gibberellic acid (GA3). Gibberellins are compounds that are naturally produced within plants to stimulate growth. *Fine *has developed a unique fermentation method of naturally producing GA3 and markets the compound for use in ornamental plants as *falgro*. *Falgro *has a huge variety of useful applications including elongation of peduncles in Pompom Chrysanthemums, earlier flowering and increased yield in Statice and accelerated plant growth with increased number of flowering stems in Gypsophila. Offering flexibility of use, *falgro *is formulated as easy to use liquid, powder and tablet formulations.
http://www.fine-agrochemicals.com/Co...rodH.asp?id=21
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*Hydroponic additives*. 11 ways to help you plants

Additives, Hormones and Plant Growth Regulators at your local hydro store..
Here is a basic guide to producing better plants and understanding additives in order of priority. 
1. Nutrients 
You must use nutrients for Hydroponics. 
2. Vitamins 
Vitamins are our Number 2 most effective way to help a plant do well. 
Vitamins for plants help a plant feel better when stressed, and keep a plant healthy. 
Vitamins will help with resistance to fungal rots and insect attacks for instance. 
While plants manufacture vitamins for themselves, if they have a supply of them, they can turn their energy to producing other elements they need, and thereby speed up growth. 
Nutriboost is a concentrate that you add to nutrients, or spray onto the plants. 1ml per 10 litres whilst growing and for high performance, increase to 10ml per 10 litres for flowering/fruiting. 50ml $10, 100ml $15, 200ml $20 500ml $40 1litre $70 and 5litre $315. 
Another vitamin additive is Superthrive, but is recommended for soil as it contains a glue to make it stick to soil, and in Hydroponics it just sticks to media and makes everything go green with super vitaminised algae! 
3. Cleansing 
Cleaning the water that comes through the tap and the water which is recycled from any pathogen helps keep the plants strength in growing not fighting. 
Have you ever been fighting a cold, not really got sick, but just been a little slowed down. If you keep your system and root zone really clean you will see an improvement in the plants vigour. 
Hydroshield cleans the water with two highly effective cleansers, Hydrogen peroxide, bonded with silver. The silver builds immunity while activates the Hydrogen peroxide to react and keep reacting with any single celled organism, such as green algae, fungal root rots, viruses, bacteria, and also removes chlorine from the water. Dose at 2ml per litre to prevent problems, or dose every 1-3 days to kill any fungal outbreak until plants are healthy again. 
Hydroshield comes in 250ml $10 1litre $20 5litre $80 25litre $350 
As an alternative to cleaning by sterilising, you can use a high dose of beneficial bacteria to keep nasties away. Power active and Stop wilt from Nulife are great for those not using sterlising agents like Hydroshield or Pythoff. They act like a plant tonic helping the plant by creating a biological barrier for plants root system. 
4. Silica 
Silica is not silicon, it is an element that cannot be put into the nutrient formula, due to instability, but it should be part of any plants nutrition. 
Consider silica like a missing link between plant vitality, strength, resistance to infection, and increased harvests. 
The silica helps strengthen cells, and plants are much healthier from the continual addition of silica. 
Ensure you have a highly soluble form and you will begin to see effect from around 2 weeks onwards. Budlink, Silica magic or Dutch Master silica are very good forms of silica. 
5. Foliar spraying 
Have you looked at the way fertilisers are added in commercial operations. Usually by injection of liquid fertilisers into the overhead sprinklers. 
This is partly because it is quick and easy, however, you can find research that the same liquid added to the leaves (which them runs off into the soil), instead of just the soil is around 25% more in harvest yields. 
Also things such as amino acids are more difficult to absorb through the roots than through the leaves. 
We have made up Amino Sprays containing high quality mineral nutrients, vitamins, organic additives such as amino acids, as well a wetting agent to assist uptake and spreading. 
Ready to use, just pour into a spray bottle and spray, preferably towards the end of the day, or when artificial lighting sources are about to switch off for the night. 
Amino Acid Sprays come in Grow, Flowering and Harvest formulas to ensure nutrition is improved for the particular stage of the plants life. 
A 1litre is $8, and 5litres is $24. 
Its an inexpensive way to increase crops without increasing your system size. 
Remember that spraying should be done around twice a week in cooler months, and once per week during humid hotter months. Discontinue if any chance of mould or fungus on leaves (e.g. poorly ventilated greenhouses/ grow rooms) 
6. Cell dividers 
Some additves help the plants grow quicker by making their cells divide quicker. 
Organic additives such as monsta bud, psychobud and megabud cause plants to grow faster in this way 
Monstabud and Psychobud are the same except Psychobud is more concentrated. 
Both are available in an additive to nutrient in separate formulas for grow, flower and harvest/final stages. 
Megabud is used only in the fist and third week of flowering and is very high performance. 
Bio Earth Sea Acids are a unique product that can be used alongside the other products for very fast plant metabolism, meaning faster growth and flowering 
7. Weight Adders 
Potassium is stored in the flower/fruit during the flowering process. 
To add weight, products like weight plus use potassium to add weight 
Weight plus 1ltr is $20 and is added at 1ml per liter 
Other potassium products are Potash plus and Canna PK1314 but are not as pH stable as weight plus which is fully balanced and should not affect your pH 
8. Harvest activator 
Superbud is a hobby derivative similar to products used in stonefruit commercial farming. 
It causes extremely rapid fruiting and flowering and makes fruit very firm immediately. 
It stops ALL Growth, and plants will NOT grow more than 1 inch once added. 
Do not add until the final height and size required. 
Recalculating use 3ml of each part per litre, if hand watering or run to waste use 5ml per litre of each Use for 7-9 days no more and no less. 
It is $165 for a litre. 
9. Height Controllers 
Bonza bud creates the same effect as âtipping' a plant without removing the top growth, which would eventually produce much more branches and flower/fruit points 
It blocks the hormone that causes a plant to grow taller, and instead of growing , say 5cm and producing a branch it will produce less, maybe 2-3 cm thus making a plant shorter 
A shorter plant has more even light from top to bottom and thus increases yield on lower branches 
Bonza Bud encourages more side growth and these branches will produce extra fruiting/flowering points per plant also increasing yields 
50ml $25 use at 2ml/litre for extremely stretched out plants, or 1ml/litre for normal plants to be shortened slightly 
Respray to improve effect as desired or every 4 weeks. 
Spray over plants until liquid runs off. 
10. Rootzone accelerant 
A large root zone creates a healthier plant and helps uptake 
Rootzone accelerant helps roots, especially for new plants/clones to get them established 
11. Feminizing products 
Female products come in two varieties 
Male suppressants such as la femme and feminizer, used to reduce the chances of a male as a seedling is raised 
Hermaphrodite treatments such as Budwise, which make male flowers shrivel up and drop off. 
Notes for Sick Plants : 
Use additives carefully when plants are sick. 
If any root rot, spray vitamins onto plant. Vitamins around roots will strengthen the fungus that is attacking your plant. 
If mould or fungal attacks on leaves discontinue sprays
FROM

http://www.marijuanagrowing.eu
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*Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) *is a water molecule with an extra atom of Oxygen attached (2H2O + O2 = 2H2O2). 

H2O2 is a clear sharp smelling substance very similar in appearance to water (H2O). Like water it is made up of Hydrogen and Oxygen, however H2O2 has an extra Oxygen atom in an unstable arrangement. It is this extra atom that gives H2O2 its useful properties. H2O2 has been used for many purposes including cleaning, bleaching, sterilizing, rocket fuel, animal feed treatment and in addition many miraculous claims about its health benefits have been made. This article isn't about any of these; instead it will concentrate on horticultural applications. H2O2 is of great use for both hydroponics and dirt/soilless gardening. 
1. What Does Hydrogen Peroxide do? 
H2O2 is an unstable molecule, when it breaks down a single oxygen atom and a molecule of water is released. This oxygen atom is extremely reactive and will attach itself to either another O- atom forming a stable Oxygen molecule or attack a nearby organic molecule. Both the stable and O- forms will increase the level of dissolved oxygen. This is the method by which H2O2 is beneficial. Pretreating the water supply with H2O2 will drive out the Chlorine many cities use to sterilize it. This will also degrade any pesticides or herbicides that might be present as well as any other organic matter. Well water can be high in methane and organic sulfates, both of which H2O2 will remove. Many disease causing organisms and spores are killed by Oxygen, the free Oxygen H2O2 releases is extremely effective at this. H2O2 will help eliminate existing infections and will help prevent future ones. It is also useful for suppressing algae growth. The free Oxygen atom will destroy dead organic material (i.e, leaves roots) in the system preventing them from rotting and spreading diseases. 
2.Over Watering 
Roots require Oxygen to breathe and low levels are the main cause of almost all root diseases. Both soil and hydroponic plants often fall prey to the same syndrome although it is rarely recognized as what it really is. Hydroponic crops often fail due to "root rot" and soil crops succumb to "over watering." The real cause of both these problems is a shortage of Oxygen at the root zone. In a soil system the soil consists of particles, a film of water on the particles and air spaces between the particles. When too much water is put into the soil the air spaces fill with liquid. The roots will quickly use up what Oxygen is dissolved in the water, if they haven't drunk enough of the liquid to allow air back in to the soil spaces they will stop working. In this situation roots will start dying within twenty-four hours. As the roots die the plants ability to drink water and nutrients will decrease, this will cause symptoms of nutrient deficiencies (mostly pale, slow, weak growth), and strangely they will start to wilt like they don't have enough water. It is easy to make a fatal mistake at this point and add more water. 
In a Hydroponic system the cause is a more direct simple lack of oxygen in the solution, this may be from inadequate circulation and/or aeration. High reservoir temperatures also interfere with Oxygen's ability to dissolve in the water. Temperatures above 70F (20C) will eventually cause problems, 62F-65F (16C-18C) is recommended. The same symptoms will appear as with soil plants but you can also check the roots. Healthy roots should be mostly white with maybe a slight yellowish tan tinge. If they are a brownish colour with dead tips or they easily pull away there is at least the beginnings of a serious problem. An organic dirtlike rotting smell means there is already a very good chance it is too late. As roots die and rot they eat Oxygen out of the water, as Oxygen levels are even further depleted more roots die, a viscius circle may be well under way. Reduced Oxygen levels and high temperatures both encourage anaerobic bacteria and fungi. The plants may still be saved but you will have to work fast. 
3. How Hydrogen Peroxide prevents root rot/overwatering. 
When plants are watered with H2O2 it will break down and release Oxygen into the area around the roots. This helps stop the Oxygen from being depleted in the water filled air spaces until air can get back into them. High Oxygen levels at the roots will encourage rapid healthy root growth. In a Hydroponic system H2O2 will disperse through out the system and raise Oxygen levels as it breaks down. Strong white healthy roots with lots of fuzzy new growth will be visible. This fuzzy growth has massive surface area allowing for rapid absorption of the huge amounts of water and nutrients needed for rapid top growth. A healthy plant starts with a healthy root system. 
4. How to use it. 
H2O2 comes in several different strengths 3%, 5%, 8% and 35%, also sold as food grade Hydrogen Peroxide. The most economical is 35% which we recommend be diluted to three percent before using, as at this high concentration it can cause damage to skin and clothing. When working with food grade H2O2 it is very important that you clean up any spills or splashes immediately, it will damage almost anything very quickly. This is extra important with skin and clothing. Skin will be temporarily bleached pure white if not washed cleaned. Gloves are strongly recommended when working with any strong chemical. 
Food grade H2O2 can be diluted to three percent by mixing it one part to eleven parts water (preferably distilled). The storage container should be opaque to prevent light from getting in and it must be able to hold some pressure. If three-liter pop bottles are available in your area they are ideal for mixing and storing H2O2. There are twelve quarter liters (250ml) in three liters, if you put in one quarter liter H2O2 and eleven quarter liters (250ml) water in the bottle it will full of three percent H2O2 and the bottle can hold the pressure that the H2O2 will generate. Three percent Hydrogen Peroxide may be added at up to three ml's per liter (2 1\2 tsp. Per gallon), but it is recommended that you start at a lower concentration and increase to full strength over a few weeks. Use every watering even on fresh cuttings. For hydroponics use every reservoir change and replace twenty-five percent (one quarter) every day. Example: In a 100L reservoir you would add three hundred ml's (3%) H2O2 when changing the nutrient. You would then add seventy-five ml's more every day. 
5. Where to get it. 
35% food grade: called food grade because it has no toxic impurities
Of course your local hydroponics retailer, whom you can locate over the web at www.hydromall.com. Direct order off the web (there may be shipping restrictions on high strength peroxides). H2O2 is used to bleach hair so the local hairdresser may have a source. The local feed supplier may have it in small towns. Prices range from fifteen dollars per quarter liter to eighty dollars a gallon. One gallon will treat up to fifty thousand liters of water. 
3%5%, 8%
Can be found at most drugstores or pharmacies, prices start at a less than a dollar for a one hundred-ml bottle that will treat one hundred liters. 
6. What to do if you already have root rot. 
In Dirt:
Use peroxided water with anti-fungicide (benomyl) and a high Phosphate fertilizer (9-45-15, 10-52-10, 0-60-0) for root growth. Root booster (5-15-5) or any other product with rooting hormone dissolved in it is helpful in regrowing roots and is strongly recommended. If a plant is wilty adding Nutri-Boost may save it. Water heavily until liquid pours out the bottom of the pot. This sound like bad idea, but it flushes out stagnant dead water and replaces it with fresh highly oxygenated water. Don't let plants sit in trays full of water, the soil will absorb this water and stay too wet. Don't water again until the pot feels light and the top inch or two of the soil are dry. 
In Hydro:
Change your nutrients. Add H2O2 to the system. This will add oxygen and chemically eat dead roots. If roots are badly rotted and can be pulled away by hand you should pull them off. They are already dead and will only rot, causing further problems. Add a fungicide to kill any fungus that is probably present in the rotted tissue to prevent it from spreading. Root booster will speed recovery. If plants are wilty Nutri-Boost may help save them. Increase aeration of the water, get an airpump and air stones, or more of them, for the reservoir. An air stone under every plant is usually very effective, but will require a larger air pump. Models that will do from forty to four hundred stones are available. Decrease the reservoir temperature, oxygen dissolves better in cold water and disease causing organisms reproduce slower as well. A good temperate range is 62F to 65F; anything above 70F will eventually cause a problem. It is also a good idea to remove any wilty plants from the system and put them on a separate reservoir so they don't infect plants that are still healthy. 
Summary 
The key to big productive plants is a big healthy root system and Hydrogen Peroxide is a great way to keep your roots healthy. It is a must to ensure the biggest best crops possible and to increase the chances of your plants thriving to harvest. Peroxide users will rarely lose plants or crops to root disease and will harvest larger and more consistent crops.

REF: http://thegardenguy.tripod.com/omma/id15.html
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*MOLASSES*
There are three main types of Molasses:-
Unsulphured 
Sulphured 
Blackstrap
Unsulphured Molasses are the finest quality, they are taken from the juice of sun-ripened Sugar Cane whihc is then clarified and concentrated.
Sulphured - These are made from green sugar that has not been matured enough, it is treated with sulphur fumes during the sugar extracting process. It then goes through a first boiling process - the Molasses from this first boil are the best as only a small amount of sugar has been removed. The process then goes into it's second boil which makes the Molasses a much darker colour, they are also not as sweet and are not distinctively flavoured.

Blackstrap - These are Molasses that have gone through the third boil. There main use is in the manufacturer of Cattle Food and Industrial Uses. Saying that these Molasses are extremely high in Iron and are also used in the health food industry.

*Molasses and our plants!* 
Molasses is a syrupy, thick juice created by the processing of either sugar beets or the sugar cane plant. Depending on the definition used, Sweet Sorghum also qualifies as a molasses, although technically its a thickened syrup more akin to Maple Syrup than to molasses. The grade and type of molasses depends on the maturity of the sugar cane or beet and the method of extraction. The different molasses have names like: first molasses, second molasses, unsulphured molasses, sulphured molasses, and blackstrap molasses. For gardeners the sweet syrup can work as a carbohydrate source to feed and stimulate microorganisms. And, because molasses (average NPK 1-0-5) contains potash, sulfur, and many trace minerals, it can serve as a nutritious soil amendment. Molasses is also an excellent chelating agent.

Several grades and types of molasses are produced by sugar cane processing. First the plants are harvested and stripped of their leaves, and then the sugar cane is usually crushed or mashed to extract its sugary juice. Sugar manufacturing begins by boiling cane juice until it reaches the proper consistency, it is then processed to extract sugar. This first boiling and processing produces what is called first molasses, this has the highest sugar content of the molasses because relatively little sugar has been extracted from the juice. Green (unripe) sugar cane that has been treated with sulphur fumes during sugar extraction produces sulphured molasses. The juice of sun-ripened cane which has been clarified and concentrated produces unsulphured molasses. Another boiling and sugar extraction produces second molasses which has a slight bitter tinge to its taste. 

Further rounds of processing and boiling yield dark colored blackstrap molasses, which is the most nutritionally valuable of the various types of molasses. It is commonly used as a sweetner in the manufacture of cattle and other animal feeds, and is even sold as a human health supplement. Any kind of molasses will work to provide benefit for soil and growing plants, but blackstrap molasses is the best choice because it contains the greatest concentration of sulfur, iron and micronutrients from the original cane material. Dry molasses is something different still. Its not exactly just dried molasses either, its molasses sprayed on grain residue which acts as a carrier.

Molasses production is a bit different when it comes to the sugar beet. You might say birds know beets because one of our flock grew up near Canadas sugar beet capitol in Alberta. Their family worked side by side with migrant workers tending the beet fields. The work consisted of weeding and thinning by hand, culling the thinner and weaker plants to leave behind the best beets. After the growing season and several hard frosts - which increase the sugar content - the beets are harvested by machines, piled on trucks and delivered to their destination. 

At harvest time, a huge pile of beets will begin to build up outside of the sugar factory that will eventually dwarf the factory itself in size. Gradually throughout the winter the pile will diminish as the whole beets are ground into a mash and then cooked. The cooking serves to reduce and clarify the beet mash, releasing huge columns of stinky (but harmless) beet steam into the air. Sometimes, if the air is cold enough, the steam will fall to the ground around the factory as snow!

As weve already learned, in the of sugar cane the consecutive rounds of sugar manufacturing produce first molasses and second molasses. With the humble sugar beet, the intermediate syrups get names like high green and low green, its only the syrup left after the final stage of sugar extraction that is called molasses. After final processing, the leftover sugar beet mash is dried then combined with the thick black colored molasses to serve as fodder for cattle. Sugar beet molasses is also used to sweeten feed for horses, sheep, chickens, etc.

Sugar beet molasses is only considered useful as an animal feed additive because it has fairly high concentrations of many salts including calcium, potassium, oxalate, and chloride. Despite the fact that its not suitable for human consumption and some consider it to be an industrial waste or industrial by-product, molasses produced from sugar beets makes a wonderful plant fertilizer. While humans may reject beet molasses due to the various extras the sugar beet brings to the table, to our plants its a different story. Sugar beet molasses is usually fairly chemical free as well, at least in our experience. Although farmers generally fertilize their fields in the spring using the various arrays of available fertilizers, weed chemicals (herbicides) are not used for this crop due to the beet plants relatively delicate nature.

There is at least one other type of molasses we are aware of, and that would be sorghum molasses. Its made from a plant known as sweet sorghum or sorghum cane in treatments somewhat similar to sugar beets and/or sugar cane processing. If our understanding is correct, sorghum molasses is more correctly called a thickened syrup rather than a by-product of sugar production. So in our eyes sorghum molasses is probably more like Maple Syrup than a true molasses. 

In the distant past sorghum syrup was a common locally produced sweetener in many areas, but today it is fairly rare speciality product that could get fairly pricey compared to Molasses. Because sorghum molasses is the final product of sweet sorghum processing, and blackstrap and sugar beet molasses are simply waste by-products of sugar manufacturing, its pretty easy to understand the difference in expense between the products. The word from the birds is - there isnt any apparent advantage to justify the extra expense of using sorghum molasses as a substitute for blackstrap or sugar beet molasses in the garden. So if you find sorghum molasses, instead of using it in your garden, youll probably want to use it as an alternate sweetener on some biscuits.

Thats a quick birds eye look at the differences between the various types and grades of molasses and how they are produced. Now its time to get a peek at the whys and hows of using molasses in gardening.


Why Molasses?
The reason nutrient manufacturers have discovered molasses is the simple fact that its a great source of carbohydrates to stimulate the growth of beneficial microorganisms. Carbohydrate is really just a fancy word for sugar, and molasses is the best sugar for horticultural use. Folks who have read some of our prior essays know that we are big fans of promoting and nourishing soil life, and that we attribute a good portion of our growing success to the attention we pay to building a thriving micro-herd to work in concert with plant roots to digest and assimilate nutrients. We really do buy into the old organic gardening adage - Feed the soil not the plant.

Molasses is a good, quick source of energy for the various forms of microbes and soil life in a compost pile or good living soil. As we said earlier, molasses is a carbon source that feeds the beneficial microbes that create greater natural soil fertility. But, if giving a sugar boost was the only goal, there would be lots of alternatives. We could even go with the old Milly Blunt story of using Coke on plants as a child, after all Coke would be a great source of sugar to feed microbes and it also contains phosphoric acid to provide phosphorus for strengthening roots and encouraging blooming. In our eyes though, the primary thing that makes molasses the best sugar for agricultural use is its trace minerals. 

In addition to sugars, molasses contains significant amounts of potash, sulfur, and a variety of micronutrients. Because molasses is derived from plants, and because the manufacturing processes that create it remove mostly sugars, the majority of the mineral nutrients that were contained in the original sugar cane or sugar beet are still present in molasses. This is a critical factor because a balanced supply of mineral nutrients is essential for those beneficial beasties to survive and thrive. Thats one of the secrets weve discovered to really successful organic gardening, the micronutrients found in organic amendments like molasses, kelp, and alfalfa were all derived from other plant sources and are quickly and easily available to our soil and plants. This is especially important for the soil micro-herd of critters who depend on tiny amounts of those trace minerals as catalysts to make the enzymes that create biochemical transformations. That last sentence was our fancy way of saying - its actually the critters in live soil that break down organic fertilizers and feed it to our plants.

One final benefit molasses can provide to your garden is its ability to work as a chelating agent. Thats a scientific way of saying that molasses is one of those magical substances that can convert some chemical nutrients into a form thats easily available for critters and plants. Chelated minerals can be absorbed directly and remain available and stable in the soil. Rather than spend a lot of time and effort explaining the relationships between chelates and micronutrients, we are going to quote one of our favorite sources for explaining soil for scientific laymen. 

Micronutrients occur, in cells as well as in soil, as part of large, complex organic molecules in chelated form. The word chelate (pronounced KEE-late) comes from the Greek word for claw, which indicates how a single nutrient ion is held in the center of the larger molecule. The finely balanced interactions between micronutrients are complex and not fully understood. We do know that balance is crucial; any micronutrient, when present in excessive amounts, will become a poison, and certain poisonous elements, such as chlorine are also essential micronutrients.
For this reason natural, organic sources of micronutrients are the best means of supplying them to the soil; they are present in balanced quantities and not liable to be over applied through error or ignorance. When used in naturally chelated form, excess micronutrients will be locked up and prevented from disrupting soil balance.

ref: http://forum.grasscity.com/general-i...ur-plants.html

SILICA:
*Why is silica so important for your plants?* 


Various research projects conducted over the past 40 years _(coupled with regular feedback from users of SilikaMajic)_ have shown that the presence of silica (SiO2) in plant tissue produces many beneficial side effects:

*+ Increased stem strength and rigidity* - once silica is taken up by the roots, it is deposited in the plants cell walls as a solid silica matrix equivalent to quartz. This structure produces stronger and more rigid cell walls and hence a mechanically stronger plant. This enables better leaf orientation for receiving light which in turn _enhances photosynthesis and growth rates._ 
*+ Improved healing of pruning wounds* - silica enables pruning wounds to heal more quickly and neatly. This property is especially beneficial in commercial cropping of plants such as tomato and cucumber where regular pruning threatens the plant's survival. 
*+ Increased fruit weight *- accumulation of silica in plant cells can result in higher fruit weight. 
*+ Increased leaf strength* - improved resistance to wilting, particularly noticeable during hot weather. *+ Increased tolerance to high salinity *- silica has been shown to reduce problems arising from nutrient toxicity (e.g. sodium, chloride) and/or imbalance. 


*Why silica additives are needed in hydroponics*

The silica (SiO2) content in the leaves (etc.) of 'soil grown' plants ranges from 1-10% of their dry weight. This silica is potentially supplied from both the feed water and the soil:





Feed water: Natural (i.e. uncontaminated) waters commonly contain around 5 mg/L soluble silica. Hence soil grown plants potentially enjoy a feed of soluble silica each time the plant is watered. 





Soil: Sand is composed largely of silica, therefore, the roots of soil grown plants are immersed in a potential "silica reservoir". Although this form of silica is very insoluble it does dissolve slowly - especially with alkaline waters. 


However, plants grown in hydroponic systems without soluble silica supplements, typically contain much less silica in their cells. This occurs because, unlike soil grown plants, silica is virtually absent at the root-zone:





Recycling systems: Once the plant consumes the silica present in the make-up water, no more silica is available. Of course if either rainwater or RO (reverse osmosis) water is used, no soluble silica is present. 





Inert mediums: Unlike 'soil', inert mediums are unable to yield silica. 
Research shows that the absence of silica in hydroponics can cause plant health to be less than optimum. 

*Note, silica cannot be included in concentrated nutrient formulations because stable silica solutions are by nature highly alkaline. It must therefore be added separately. 



*When to use Silica?*

Silica should be used from seed to harvest: Consistent with predictions based on silicas general insolubility, electron microscopy and x-ray analysis both confirm that once deposited, silica can no longer be redistributed within the plant. Consequently to benefit all growing areas of the plant, silica must be present at all times in the nutrient solution.

HERE IS A Retail PRODUCT:













The reactive silica in SilikaMajic is extremely stable. This ensures SilikaMajic is able to deliver all the benefits of silica. Be aware that many other silica supplements deteriorate in the bottle** such that the silica becomes unavailable to plants.





*Commercial strength silica *(20% silica as reactive SiO2) - 0.2ml per litre produces 40mg/L reactive silica.​ 




*Totally soluble silica* - The silica is in the soluble/available form which ensures uptake by plant roots. This is a significant feature because clay products (powders) typically contain zero* silica that can be absorbed by roots. ​ 




*Optimized for ALL substrates *e.g. Coco-peat, soil, NFT, Rockwool, clay, perlite, etc.​ 




Available in 250ml, 1L, 5L & 20L.​ 
* As determined by the internationally recognised 'molybdosilicate' analytical method.
** Verified by being milky/turbid rather than clear liquids and will not dissolve when placed in the nutrient solution.​ref: http://www.flairform.com.au/Products/silica_hydroponics.htm

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
*FINALLY DONE! *TOTAL FEED SCHEDUAL for MY NEW GROW EXPERIMENT.............. 

PLEASE FIND Attached a Excel spread (zipped)with 
*NUTES, VITAMNS, HORMONES, MICRO NUTES, PGR`S........ 13 WK *
Everything is from label recommendations or successfull experiments ive read about....(except penatrator)


FIND FEED SCHEDUAL ATTACHED
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------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.scribd.com/doc/6612723/All-About-Hemp

REAL GOOD READ........ WORTH THE TIME STARTS A BIT WISHY WASHY but gets into it.
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Here is the some interesting Chemicals/hormones/pgr that Ive not heard anyone speak much of........ From link above: 
Hempseed can be induced to sprout within 12 hours if it is soaked in a solution of Mg-sulfate (0.8 % Epsom salt) or MgCl and then steamed with ether. 
Treatment with a 1% solution result in damage to the seeds. Germination occurs within 10 hours when hempseed is soaked in Mn-sulfate (1.5%) plus ether treatment, or with Pb-nitrate (0.5%) without ether treatment. 
Sprouting takes place within 6 hours when seeds are soaked in a solution of oxalic acid (1%) [which is a natural ethylene producer], with or without ether treatment. The germination percentage is higher in darkness than in light. 
The resulting plants produced up to 88% increase in the dry weight of stems, and the plants height increased up to 26%. 
The dry weight and height of the stems varied with formulas of the solutions; therefore this method can be used to improve plants in a systematic manner. Dry ether alone has no such influence; it is effective only in combination with the chemical solutions. 

Treatment with carbon dioxide or ethylene before sowing influences positively the growth, budding, flowering, and ripening of hemp. Root development, seed production and total yields also are greatly increased by such treatment.
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## eza82 (Feb 9, 2009)

My first experiments......... Find pics on thread in signature

Also useable spread sheet for you to alter and print....


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## Greenisgold (Feb 9, 2009)

So, I'm one week into flowering and I have 2 Super girl clones that are pretty much the same size except I train them. I will spray one with the tomato bloom spray and will leave the other alone. If you want I will post pics too see if this time around I get the timing right. Let me know..


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## eza82 (Feb 9, 2009)

Please... Give use a little grow journal..... showing your plant with out and your plant with..... Put a ruler or tape measure in back ground and place the camera in EXACTLY the same spot each time.... Take a photo once a week.
Thanx GREENI!
Bring this to HORMONES Vs Co2 - Hormones cheaper potentially yeild same !


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## eza82 (Feb 10, 2009)

Will do complete spread useing all above and there timeing.... and predicted effect. It may take awhile.........


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## eza82 (Feb 10, 2009)

Any input ??


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## eza82 (Feb 10, 2009)

This looks to be the most even applicator of *ethylene* I have found. _ Will trial a bucket of skins with isolated plant, use this on the girls at WK 3&4 of flower. (againt application recommendations- which is for wk3-4 VEG & wk7 of 8wk flower )






Click to enlarge





THE WHAT:
Sensa-Spray is guaranteed to increase the number of female flowers on your plants and decrease the number of male flowers! Sensa-Spray is a fantastic new hormonal stimulant applied as a foliar spray in the mid-life of the plant. Sensa-Spray comes as a concentrate which you dilute, put into a standard plant mister and spray your leaves at the proper time in its life cycle. Sensa-Spray works by surrounding your plants in a *gaseous female hormone atmosphere*. This incites your plants to produce supranormal levels of its own female hormones resulting in more female and less male flowers.The *active ingredient in Sensa-Spray is ethylene*, which a normal female plant would produce on its own. The reaction to an external application of this natural hormone is to shove the plant's hormonal consciousness in the feminine direction regardless of inherent genetics.
Whether the plant was a natural male or female doesn't matter, the plant now responds to such treatment by producing its own elevated levels of ethylene. 
This may seem odd, but reallly isn't since all plants have the genetic machinery to create these hormones on their own. The only difference between males and females is the degree of genetic repression in allowing it to happen. Inherent females are enhanced, inherent males are sexually reversed. Hormonal inertia in the feminine direction continues until the time you harvest. 
Sensa-Spray is used at that time in the plant's life when it is still sexually uncommited. 
For indooor growers, this means before any change to the shorter light cycles. For outdoor growers, this means a few weeks prior to that time of year when you are first able to determine the sex of your plants. Sensa-Spray will redirect the plant energy away from vegetative growth and into the formation of vegetative female sex organs. Sensa-Spray is a unique product. It does not contain gibberellins, naphthoxyacetic acids, nor any other standard commercially available chemicals you are likely to encounter. 

What Sensa-Spray does contain is a compound which decomposes after dilution to yield ethylene in the proper and exact concentration to incite your plant towards feminization. And since it does decompose after it has done its job, Sensa-Spray is absolutely safe, both to the plant and to you. Makes 2 gallons of foliar spray.

The reason for TIMEING will be to induce further female pitals, and over all size & wieght of flower. Increasing the ability to produce tric`s.


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## DaveTheNewbie (Feb 10, 2009)

its interesting that sensa spray says weeks 3-4 of veg
la femme says to use before flowering, but if you wait until you have male preflowers, then its too late to apply anything to change it then.
i read that to get your best chance of females, NEVER stress in weeks 3-4
therefore i am running on a theory that plants decide sex in weeks 3-4 veg. much like humans dont sex until very late in the womb (last month or something i think)
anyway im going to plant 9 seeds (i only have room for 9) and im going to use 2 products.
a seed soak to use before germinating seeds, and la femme at weeks 3 and 4 after germination.
grow journal to follow.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300259427043&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSA:AU:11
Flower Seed Soak stimulates the seed to have a tendency to become a female plant. After 24 - 30 hours treatment, simply plant the seeds as normal.

http://www.petshopboyz.com.au/Products/StockImage.asp?size=2&stockNo=188
La Femme is a female sex change hormone which induces predominance of female flowers. It is most effective when used as a foliar spray at a dilution rate of 5mls per litre of water during the initial flower bud formation or the change of daylength or flower induction. Follow up spray one week after the first application. Spray until run off is acheived


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## spiked1 (Feb 11, 2009)

I have experimented somewhat with Flower Seed Soak,
so far most seeds treated didn't germinate,
the only seeds that did germinate were only 1 month old and a cross
between Lowryder2 and Durban Poison that I bred myself to be Auto Flowering,
I had only just planted 25 of these seeds and all 25 sprouted and are healthy.
The seeds that still sprouted after using Flower Seed Soak didn't go so well,
half of the 12 seeds I soaked didn't want to grow roots.
Of the 6 seeds that made it 3 were male, and 1 of the females just up and died for no reason a couple of weeks after flowering started.
So my experiments using Flower Seed Soak were a total failure, and I wouldn't recommend using it on expensive bought seeds.


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## DaveTheNewbie (Feb 11, 2009)

spiked1 said:


> So my experiments using Flower Seed Soak were a total failure, and I wouldn't recommend using it on expensive bought seeds.


did you actually soak the seeds in the soak, or wrap them in paper and try to gas them ?

EDIT : 

Place cleaned, dry seeds in the centre of a WHITE tissue or paper towel. Fold the tissue in half and keep folding until the seed is covered by about 3 or 4 layers. Shake Seed Soak well. The normally clear liquid should appear cloudy. Apply Seed Soak to the tissue, continuing to apply until the tissue is saturated. It is important that the contents of Seed Soak do not become contaminated by fingers, tools, etc. Place saturated tissue into a clean, sealable plastic bag. Record the date and time the seed was placed into the bag. Leave in plastic bag for no less than 24 hours and no more than 30 hours. Remove seeds and germinate as normal. Do not allow seeds to dry out

if what you did didnt work, maybe doing what people talk about with the banana skins and gas is the go. From what i read Ethylene is a gas, so gassing the seeds seems to be a good idea. I think ill try to suspend the seeds above the soak for a day and see if that helps. you have reall scared me with your report of seed soak ruining the whole crop .


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## Greenisgold (Feb 11, 2009)

eza82 said:


> Please... Give use a little grow journal..... showing your plant with out and your plant with..... Put a ruler or tape measure in back ground and place the camera in EXACTLY the same spot each time.... Take a photo once a week.
> Thanx GREENI!
> Bring this to HORMONES Vs Co2 - Hormones cheaper potentially yeild same !


 I should start in about one week or so based on when they start to flower. Will post first pic right before I spray and then update.


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## eza82 (Feb 11, 2009)

*Extraction of chemicals from plants*

----------------------------------------------------

*Alkaloid Extraction*


The method I use is a general one - I copied it from one used by some scientists to extract mescaline from peyote, but I have since seen close variations used on many plants. This procedure is followed whenever a plant is studied for its alkaloids. 

A few ingredients and bits of equipment are necessary. I am a chemist, and have my own chemistry set. I have considered manufacture, but I find that there are enough interesting things to do just extracting natural compounds, which is much easier, indeed, possible in the home. 
*You will need:* 

A few flasks, glass containers, etc. of suitable sizes, depending on how large a volume you are playing with.
A separating funnel is almost essential - this could be tricky to get without a little effort. If you don't know, it is an inverted conical flask with a hole at the top to pour stuff in, and a tap at the bottom to let the stuff out accurately. It is used for separating immiscible layers.
A vacuum filtration apparatus would be very useful; I did have a bodgy one rigged up myself, but it was always difficult to use. Some kind of still, though, is pretty important to have, although conceivably for a once off you could get by without it, if you don't mind breathing in a lot of solvent.
As far as a still goes it is to recover solvent, and leave goodness as a residue at the bottom. I use a bit of quickfit I nicked: a round bottom flask, short column, thermometer on top, and a small condenser... takes forever, but don't expect to follow this procedure in anything under a day. 
*Other bits and pieces:* 
A filtre of some sort is a necessity; preferably a good one, with a vacuum pump if you are filtring gluggy stuff (cactus is the worst, sticky goo, e.g., other things like seeds and bark are better). People have been known to use such devices as coffee filtres, t-shirts, tins with holes in the bottom (as a filtre press) and so on. Whatever you can scrounge. A lab buchner funnel, sidearm flask, and venturi pump are ideal. All this stuff is standard in any chemical lab, regardless of discipline. 
*Chemicals necessary:* 

The paydirt (obviously)
Some solvents: methanol (lots), and a non polar solvent. Some people use ether - this is dangerous and doesn't dissolve everything. Your best bet is probably something chlorinated - I use dichloromethane, although chloroform will do (don't breath too much - it is fun at first, but ends up making you feel ill). Drycleaning fluid... petrol... I don't know what you have access to. Dichloromethane is good because it is non-toxic, volatile, and a good solvent. It has a major drawback: separation is often very difficult once you have placed your gluggy plant muck in there. The shot is to use large quantities of everything, and be patient.
You will also need an acid (Hydrogen chloride is good)
and a base/alkali (Sodium hydroxide is good - that way, if you stuff up, you end up synthesizing salt instead of something nasty.)
Also useful: acid/base indicator paper, boiling chips (porcelain grains) and activated charcoal - see local chemist.
The idea is this: Most fun compounds (the only exception is maybe THC, and alcohol if you count that) are basic - they contain nitrogen. So: in general, if you react them with hydrochloric acid, they form a water soluble chloride. If you react them with dilute base in the aqueous phase, they go back to being a base, which is insoluble in water, but soluble in organic non-polar solvents (like CH2Cl2). So, the theory is, that only a base will go from water to solvent and back to water etc. when changed from acidic to basic and back to acidic. This gives you a way of removing all the other crap which is not alkaloid from a sample. That is the theory. When I do this, if I can get down to some brown or green sludge that I can throw down or smoke, I am happy with a good days work. Ideally, you should end up with lovely white crystals, but I think that would require a lot of time and effort, and indeed a considerable loss of product in the process. 
*Procedure:* 

Get your stuff.
Dry it as much as possible - this makes life easier later on. You will never get all the water out, but too bad.
Chop it up as fine as possible: a blender comes in handy. You may wish to chop then dry. A word of caution: try to avoid exposing your stuff to excessive heat. I dry in low heat oven. Heat and air destroy good compounds from upwards of 100 degs C. All this bit will depend on exactly what you are extracting.
Once it is finely divided - powdered if possible, put it in a big container, and cover it with methanol. Alternatives to methanol here are ethanol (not as good) and acetone (good solvent - rips the crap out of anything, but is more reactive - can react with your actives).
Now, depending on what your stuff is, you have to let the methanol have time to remove it all. This is best done by leaving in a quiet warm place for a few days, even up to a week, and shaking it occasionally so it is mixed. Some papers recommend solvent extraction (soxhlet apparatus) and refluxing at the boiling point of the methanol (80 degs or so - I can't remember). I usually just rely on time to get the good stuff out. When you are ready (early in the morning), filtre the muck, to give you methanol+dissolved brown gunk, and a residue soaked with methanol. The residue still contains a lot of good stuff, so soak again for an hour, and repeat, and do a third time if you are feeling generous (3 is the magic number in extraction work). 

When you are done, there is another thing you can do finally, if desired: depending on what your stuff is, mix it up with dilute hydrochloric acid, 1M is appropriate. let stand for an hour, then filtre (this may be very difficult) That will get the last of the alkaloids out of the substrate. 
You now have a methanol-plant stuff mixture, and a dilute HCL-plant stuff mixture, if you bothered to do that part. 
Evaporate the methanol, to leave a small amount of goo. This will contain water, a bit of methanol, and all kinds of resins and muck, and if you are lucky, the alkaloids. 
If a very quick and crude extraction was all that was desired, then after stripping the last of the methanol with vacuum if possible, this residue could be smoked, eaten or whathaveyou. I leave that to your discretion. However, if a cleaner product is desired, the double layer extraction will need to be performed. 
Combine the evaporated methanol gunge with the hydrochloric acid filtrate if you have any. If you don't then mix the methanol stuff with an excess of dilute (1M) HCl. Feel free to filtre again at this point. Anything of marginal solubility here is no good to you. Get the stuff as clean as possible. Boiling with activated charcoal is another useful trick for removing gunge. Just boil it up, and filter off the charcoal for a cleaner brew. 
You should now have an acid aqueous solution of alkaloids and water solubles from the plant. 
Take your acidic solution, and basify. This is done by mixing in dilute sodium hydroxide (I use up to 5M to save on total volume. Be careful with concentrated NaOH - apart from eating skin, it eats alkaloids) As you mix in the NaOH, you will see swirls of white precipitate form and redissolve. Continue until the white swirls stay, and until the solution is quite cloudy. Indicator paper is necessary to see that the solution is basic. If you can't get indicator paper, you can make an indicator by boiling up some purple flowers. The dyes in most flowers go bright red in acid, and green in strong alkali. Just a drop of dye and a drop of mixture should tell you what is acid or base. 
The white precipitate is the alkaloids. The more the better. 
Next, add equal volume of non-polar solvent (dichloromethane) to the mix. Place in separating funnel, and shake. Separate. This may be very difficult or slow. Adding more solvent, more basic water, etc. may help. Adding lots of salt to the water layer will help break an emulsion. Ideally you want to do this step 3 times - to extract as much as possible from the water layer into the organic. I find this part very difficult, and you have to accept that you will lose quite a lot of material here. It is, however probably easier with some plants that others: cactus is very difficult, barks and seeds would be easier. Use plenty of salt, and agitate to separate. 
When you have finished extraction, chuck the basic water layer. The solvent layer is kept, and can be backwashed with salty water for a cleaner mixture. 
The solvent can now be dried, (using salt or some dry powder, the filtred) (I don't usually bother with this - the old hairdryer at the end can remove some last solvent and water) then strip the solvent in a vacuum to get your final product - some kind of syrup could be expected. This is super concentrated, but may only be half the strength of the original. e.g. put in enough for 10 doses of morning glory seeds, get back 5 doses or more of concentrated alkaloids. 
If it is desired to take the process still further, you can do the obvious thing - mix your solvent layer with dilute acid again and extract back into water. Acid layer could be evaporated under vacuum to give salts of alkaloids. Alternatively, if the organic layer were scrupulously dry, bases could be salted out with some organic acid - a tartrate, oxalate could be formed. I have never bothered with such things - you would need a lot of pure extract to be bothered. The acid-base extraction process can be continued as many times as is desired. If a truly pure product is desired, the only way to go from here is chromatography. I have never used this at home, and wouldn't think it was worth the trouble, but there will be papers available on what was used for a particular extraction case. 

------------------------------------------------------------------
REF: http://users.lycaeum.org/~sputnik/Extraction/

An introduction to alkaloid extraction
ALL FUCKING GOOD READS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Extraction of LSA from Morning Glory & Hawaiian Baby Woodrose seeds 
Extraction of mescaline from San Pedro and Peyote cacti 
Another mescaline extraction, from the Journal of the American Chemical Society 
Extraction of DMT from _Acacia maidenii_ 
Extraction of psilocybin/psilocin from magic mushrooms 
Extraction of harmine &c from [URL="http://users.lycaeum.org/~sputnik/Plants/Peganum/harmala.html"]Peganum harmala seeds[/URL] 
Extracting Myristicin & Safrole from Nutmeg 
Extracting THC from _Cannabis_. 
See also: 






The Psychedelic Kitchen Chemistry Guide.





Common Equivalent Weights and Measures convert from bushels to liters, drams to grams, grains to milligrams, &c.





Chemical Separations -- Learn what you need to know about distillation, extraction, and chromatography with these pages from a course at the University of Akron.


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## eza82 (Feb 11, 2009)

Extraction and Purification of Various Organic Compounds in Selected Medicinal Plants 
of Kotli Sattian, District Rawalpindi, Pakistan​Muhammad Gulfraz*, Abdul Waheed**, Sajid Mehmood*and Munazza Ihtisham* 
*Department of Biochemistry, ** Department of Botany
University of Arid Agriculture, Rawalpindi, Pakistan
*Issued **6 January 2006*


*ABSTRACT*

The_ medicinal values of _roots, leaves and fruits _of Funnel__ (__Foeniculum__ vulgare__ Mill), Berbery ( Berberis__ lyceum __Royle__ )__, __Vasaka_and (_Justicia__ adhatoda __L) __were explored_ in this study. The root, leaf and fruit samples of these plant species were collected from hilly areas of Kotli Sattian. Chemical analyses as well as identification of organic compounds by chromatographic techniques were carried out. The results indicate that all three plant species contained Proteins, Sugars, Lipids, Fiber and Vitamin C. Flavonoids and Saponins (Phytohormones) were found only in the fruit and leaf samples of _Foeniculum__ vulgare._ Palmatine, and Berberine, (Alkaloids) were present in the leaves, and fruits of _Berberis__ lyceum. __Whereas_ Vasicine and Vasicinone (Alkaloids) accumulated in the roots and leave of _Justicia__ adhatoda. _It was observed that roots of _Berberis__ lyceum_ and _Justicia__ adhatoda_ contained higher concentrations of all chemical compounds analyzed as compared to fruits and leave except Sugar, and Vitamin C which were high in the fruit of _Berberis__ lyceum_ . By contrast in case of _Foeniculum__ vulgare_ leaves and fruits of which contained higher concentration of protein, fats, flavonoids and saponin. The extract of roots, leaves and fruits of these plant species are being used against various infections and diseases in rural population of subcontinent since many centuries. This experiment will help to highlight the importance of these valuable organic compounds found in these plant species and their demand in the market will be increased in the future. 
*Key words:* _Berberis__ lyceum, Justicia adhatoda,_ _Foeniculum__ vulgare, Natual_ medicines

*INTRODUCTION*
Medicinal plants are a major source of drugs for the treatment of various health disorders especially in rural areas of Pakistan, India, China, Afghanistan, Iran and other countries of this region. The use of plant based medicines (local medicine) dates back to 4000-5000 B.C. Nowadays huge number of allopathic medicines also contain plant based ingredients that are used for their preparation by different companies. There are about 400,000 species of higher plants in the world, as compared to animal&#8217;s species that are about 5-10 million. The plant materials contain thousands of chemicals which act against diseases and infections of humans and animals when properly used. Plants contain different types of compounds such as resins, rubbers, gums, waxes, dyes, flavors, fragrances, Proteins, Amino acids, bioactive peptides, Phyto hormones, sugar, flavonoids and bio pesticides. Furthermore according to assessment of WHO about 80% of world population depend on medicinal plants for their health care needs, and more than 30% of the pharmaceutical preparations are based on plants (1). Where as some reports indicated that there are 90 popular medicinal plants and different Pharmaceutical companies are using extracts of these plants in various drugs. Scientists throughout the world are trying to explore the precious assets of medicinal plants to help the suffering humanity (2). However, the developed countries mostly import raw material from developing countries and after processing export it back as high priced prepared medicines to developing countries (1).
In Pakistan about 2000 plant species have been established of having some medicinal value, out of which only 400 are being used extensively in traditional medicine. Although Pakistan has variety in climate and rich in medicinal plants, but no systematic attempt has been made for utilization of natural resources of this country (3)_._
_Justicia adhatoda _is one of the most important plant species and dominant vegetation of hilly areas of Rawalpindi, Islamabad and extended up to NWFP (4). It belongs to family _Acanthaceae__, _subclass _Asteridae_and species _Adhatoda_. It is evergreen, gregarious shrub 3-6 m long, large leaves lanceolate 10-20 by 4-8 cm. The flowers are white or purple arranged in short, dense auxiliary pedunculate inflorescence. (5).
*The medicinal properties of *_Justicia__ adhatoda _*are well known in **India**, **Pakistan** and several other countries for many years. It was reported by different authors that roots, leaves and flowers of the plant species contained alkaloids (Vascine and Vasicinone etc), flavonoids and an essential oil (3)*
*The leaves of *_Justicia__ adhatoda_* are mostly used in the treatment of respiratory disorders in Ayurveda. The alkaloids, vasicine and vasicinone present in the leaves, possess respiratory stimulant activity (6). Vasicine, at low concentrations, induced bronchodilation and relaxation of the tracheal muscle. However, at high concentrations, vasicine offered significant protection against histamine-induced bronchospasm in guinea pigs. Vasicinone, the auto-oxidation product of vasicine has been reported to cause bronchodilatory effects both **in vitro** and **in **vivo (**7).*
_Berberis lyceum_ is locally known as simbuli or simbulu belonging to family Berberidaceae. It is about 4-6 feet in height with thorny branches. The leaves are somewhat obviate, with ciliated teeth on their margins. The flowers are drooping racemes, with yellow petals. The berries (fruit) grow in loose bunches cool:.
_Berberis__ lyceum_ is valued mainly for its fruits and roots, which contain alkaloids like berberine and palmitine. These alkaloids are effective against eye diseases, febrifuge, and piles (9). Whereas,an extract made from its roots (known as &#8216;rasaunt&#8217 is used against many infections including eye&#8217;s disorders (10). Similarly in some areas of India and Pakistan its fruits are mostly used as a tonic against liver and heart diseases (11). Furthermore it has antihistaminic, stomachic, astringent, antipyretic and diaphoretic properties (12).
_Foeniculum__ vulgare _iscommonly known as fennel and develops an edible bulb (containing leave and formed thick base), which is becoming popular as a vegetable. The leave, stalks and seeds (fruits) of this plant are edible. It is used as carminative, lactogogue and diuretic (13). _Foeniculum__ vulgare_ is an aromatic herb whose fruits are oblong, ellipsoid or cylindrical, straight or slightly curved and greenish or yellowish brown in color. The weight of seeds can be between 6 and 7 mg where as length is 6 mm and width 2mm. The dried, aromatic fruits are widely employed in culinary preparations for flavoring bread, pastry and candies. It is also used in alcohol liqueurs, as well as in cosmetic and medicinal preparations. (13). This herb has finely out feathery foliage, umbels of mid summer flowers, curved, ribbed seeds and a thick root. It is used as an expensive and extravagant spice and vegetable in different parts of the world. Its seeds contain essential oil, which is used for many purposes by human population (14).
The oil of _Foeniculum__ vulgare_ regulates the peristaltic functions of the gastrointestinal tract, thereby reducing emptying time and increasing the passage of gas. It also relieves the spasm of intestines. It was experimentally observed that Foeniculum seeds are effective against hernias and hydrocele when used with other salts or ingredients. (15).
*Keeping in view the importance of these valuable medicinal plants, the present study was undertaken with the following aims and objectives:*

1. To assess the bioactive compounds of _Berberis__ lyceum_, _Justicia__ adhatoda __and__ Foeniculum vulgare_
_2._ To compare the chemical compounds found in _Berberis__ lyceum _roots andfruits with leaves and roots of _Justicia__ adhatoda__ and__ Foeniculum vulgare_
3. Assessment of chemical compounds found in leaves and seeds of _Foeniculum__ vulgare_

*MATERIALS **AND** METHODS*
*Collection of samples*

The samples (_roots,_ _leaves and fruits) of Berberis lyceum, Foeniculum vulgare _and_ Justicia adhatoda _were collected from different localities of hilly areas of Kotli Sattian, District Rawalpindi, Pakistan during March and May, 2005. The samples of root and fruit (_Berberis__ lyceum), _leave andfruit _(Foeniculum vulgare) _and root and leafof_ Justicia adhatoda _were collected in clean plastic bags and labeled with date, number and location of samples.
*Preparation of Samples*
After collection the roots, leaves and fruits samples of _Berberis__ lyceum, Foeniculum vulgare__ and__ Justicia adhatoda _were washed and sun dried, followed by oven drying. Finally the samples were crushed and converted into powdered form and stored for further analysis.
*Chemical analysis of Plants*
The root, leaf and fruit samples of these plants species were analyzed for protein, carbohydrate, lipid, Amino acids, Vitamin C Calcium, phosphorus and Sulphur , Protein flavonodis , saponin, and alkaloids of these valuable plants species were separated by using techniques of one and two dimension thin layer and Column chromatography, followed by spectrophotometeric analysis (16, 17). All chemicals used in this study were analytical grade (Sigma and Merck). 
*Experimental*
In order to extract and purify alkaloids from root, leaves and fruits samples, following procedures were adopted: About 100 gram (each of roots, fruits and leaves) samples were soaked in solvents like Ethanol for 24 hours and filtered. The Solvent was evaporated and half volume of the solvent, NaOH (3-4%) was added. The pH of the mixture was adjusted to 10 with NaOH. The mixture was run through a column using silica gel to separate the alkaloids, flavonoids and saponin, which were further identified on thin layer chromatography using reference standards whereas for protein, sephadex (G 20 and G 50) was used.. The concentration level of these compounds was determined with the help of spectrophotometer at 470 650 nm.
*RESULTS **AND** DISSCUSSION* 
Results of biochemical analysis of different compounds found in roots, leave and fruits of_ Berberis lyceum, _Foeniculum_ vulgare, _and _Justicia__ adhatoda_ are given in tables 1-5.Higher concentration of alkaloids and other compounds was found in roots as compared to the leaves and fruits of _Berberis__ lyceum _andJusticia_ adhatoda_ (Tables 1 and 2). The results obtained after analysis of _Berberis__ lyceum_ indicated that concentration of Proteins (8.5 %) and Fat (6.5 %) was found in roots as compared to leaves (Protein 5.6% and Fat 4.5%). Whereas concentrations of alkaloids like palmatine and Berberine (5.6%) was higher in roots as compared to leaves (Table 1). 
The pH values and concentration level (mgL-1) of various bioactive compounds (Alkaloids) are given in table 5. which shows that bioactive compounds observed in higher amount in these valuable plants and can be used against various infections and diseases. The extracts of roots of _Berberis__ lyceum _are commonly used by people to repair cut, wounds or injuries and get relief from body pain. These are also used against high grade fever and liver jaundice (1. Similarly fruits of _Berberis__ lyceum _have high medicinal values and it is delicious dish of various animals and birds due to sweet taste ( 10 ).
The concentration level of protein (8.5 %), vasicine (5.5 %), vaicinone (3.8%), fat (3.5%) and fiber (1.8%) was found in roots samples of _Justicia__ adhatoda. _Where as level of such compounds was low in leaves except sugar (4.5%) and vitamin C (1.1%)
It was observed that roots and leave this plant specie contained higher concentrations of chemicals that can be used in drugs required against various disorders of human population. The extract of roots and leaves of _Justicia__ adhatoda _iscommonly used by rural population against diabetes, cough and certain liver disorders. (6 ). 
Analysis of leaves and fruits of_ Foeniculum vulgare _shows that higher concentration offlavonoids , saponins, proteins, amino acid (especially Isoleucine) and fats were present in the both leaves and fruits samples (Tables 3-5) The leaves contained higher concentration of flavonoids and fat, whereas the level of saponins, protein and other organic compounds were high in seeds (Table 3 ) . The seeds of _Foeniculum_ are considered as essential ingredients for many local medicines that are used against stomach, kidney and liver infection and disorders (15). The organic compounds obtained from seeds will further increase the market value of these valuable medicinal plants. The younger and fresh leaves are considered as delicious and traditional vegetables in many areas of this region (19) . Furthermore Seeds (fruits) are being used in almost all houses of this region for many purposes of human population, whereas leaves are mostly used as vegetables either cooked or in the form of salad.cool:. Data given in table 4 represents the variation in absorbance in pH due to change in solvent system for extraction of chemical compounds. 
Berberine (a alkaloid) analyzed from root and fruit of _Berberis__ lyceum_ can be used to prevent left ventricular hypertrophy development induced by pressure overload, reduce heart weight and cardiac function (20).Furthermore it also effect on the growth of bacteria and protozoa. The alkaloids like vascine and vasicinone found in the root and leave of _Justicia__ adhatoda have_ important physiological effects on liver, kidney and stomach problems (5). Whereas saponins and flavonoids found in seed and leaves of _Foneculum__ vulgare_ have important medicinal values and used in different drugs.
Therefore it is recommended that extraction and purification of such alkaloids are very valuable in the preparations of drugs of various types. The assessment of various effects of such compounds on animals and human health are required in the future studies.

*References*

1. Shinwari; M.I. and M.A.Khan 1998. Indigenous use of medicinal trees and shrubs of Margalla Hills National Park, Islamabad.Pak .J.Forest.48(1-4): 63-90.
2. Edward, A. 2001. Pathogenesis _Justicia__ adhatoda _(ed) New, Old and Forgotten remedies .pp 210-220
3. Shinawie, 2002. Wonder drugs of medicinal plants. Ethnobotony. Mol. Cell Biochem. 213 (1-2 ): 99-109.

4. Khattak, S. G. and S. N. Gilani. 1985. Antipyretic studies on some indigenous Pakistani medicinal Plants. Ethnopharmacol. 14 (1):45-52.
5. Baquar, S.R. (1997). Medicinal and Poisonous of Pak.J.Med.Sci. 95 -96.
6. Sivarjan, V. and V.Balachandran, 1994. Ayurvedic Drugs and their plant sources, Int. Sciences Publ. PP 503.

7. Rawat, M. S. M., G. Pant, S. Badoni, Y.S. Negi. 1994. Biochemical investigation of some wild fruits of Garhawal Himalayas. Prog. Horticult. 26 (1-2): 35-40.

8. Zaidi.S.H.1998.Existing indigenous medicinal plant resources of Pakistan and their prospects for utilization. Pakistan Forest Jour. 48 (2): 5

9. Ghosh, A. K., F. K. Bhattacharyya and D. K. Ghosh. 1990. Leishmania donovani: A mastigote Inhibition and mode of action of berberine . Exp. Parasitd. 60 (3): 404-413. 

10. Chopra, R. N., S. L, Nayar and I.C. Chopra. 1998. The wealth of India. Raw Materials, 2 ( B ): 114-115.

11. Gilani, A. H. and K. H. Janbaz 1999. Possible mechanism of selective intropic activity of the n- butanolic fraction from _Berberis__ aristata _fruit. Pharmacol.33 (5): 407-414.

12. Shamsa, F., A. Ahamadiani and R. Khosrokhavar. 1999.Antithistaminic and anticholinergic activity of Berbery fruit ( _Berberis__ vulgaris _) in the guinea pig ileum. Ethanopharmacol. 64 ( 2 ) : 161-166.

13. Matin, A., M. Khan, A. Asharaf and R. A. Queshri. 2002. Tradional use of shrubs and trees of Himaylan, Region, shogran valley, District Manshera ( Hazara Dsitt). Hamad. Medico. X2v (2): 50-1

14. Tanira, M.O.M. 1996. Pharmacological and doxicological investigation of Foeniculum vulgare dired fruit extract in experimental animals Phyother. Res. 10: 33-36.
15. Etherton, P.H, K. Hecker and A.Bonoman. 2002. Bioactive compounds in foods. Their role in prevention of cardiovascular disease and cancer. Am.J. Med.113,71-88.
*16. Aritom, M and T. Kawaskuki.1984. Three highly oxygenated Flanone Gluuronide in the Leave of spinacia oleracea. Phytochemist.23, 204-47 *
17. Gulfraz, M. M. Arshad, N. Nayyar, H. Kanwal and U. Nasir.2004. Extraction of Bioactive compounds from _Berberis__ lyceum_ Royle and _Justicia__ adhatoda_ L. Int. J. Ethnobotanical leaflet :6-11.

18. Ivanovska, N. and S. Philipov, 1996. Study on the anti- inflammatory action of _Berberis__ vulgaris _root extract , fractions and pure alkaloids. Immunopharmacol. 18 ( 10 ) : 553-61.

19. Kirtikar, K. R. and B. D. Basu 1993. Indian Medicinal plants. Periodical Experts Book Agency , Delhi-India.

20. Hong, Y, S.c. Hui, T, Chan and J. Y. Hou. 2002. Effects of berberine on regression of pressure overload induced cardiac hypertorophy in rats. Am. J. Chin. Med. 141-146.

_Find TABLES & REF : __http://www.siu.edu/~ebl/leaflets/kotli.htm_
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THE LAST AND PROBABLY MOST CONFUSSING (WTF)....... AND MOST IMPORTANT......... 

*Purification and determination of plant hormones auxin and abscisic acid using solid phase extraction and two-dimensional high performance liquid chromatography*​ 
http://www.ueb.cas.cz/cz/LABBAL07/2D...%20article.pdf
INTRO ABSTRACT:: 

Plant hormones are of vital importance for the normal functioning of plants. Their minute quantities trigger basic developmental processes such as cell division, enlargement  
and differentiation, organ formation, seed dormancy and germination, leaf and organ senescence and abscission [1]. Plant hormones are difficult to analyze because they occur in very low amounts in plant extracts which are very rich in interfering substances, especially secondary metabolites. To cope with this problem the plant extract must undergo several purification steps using unrelated separation mechanisms in order to increase orthogonality and purification efficiency. Common purification procedures such as column chromatography, solid phase extraction (SPE), liquid&#8211;liquid extraction, etc. are employed for plant hormone purification. However, these procedures usually require significant amounts of solvent, time and labor. Furthermore, they all are &#8220;off-line&#8221; procedures often requiring sample pre-treatment (e.g. preconcentration) when used in series.

&#8220;On-line&#8221; purification methods encompassing multidimensional HPLC have become increasingly popular. Separation of peptides by comprehensive two-dimensional high performance liquid chromatography (2D-HPLC) has appeared to be complementary to the traditional 2D-gel electrophoresis in the proteome analysis ​​[2&#8211;4]. So called &#8220;Heart-cutting&#8221; 2D-HPLC, in which only a part of the first dimension run is &#8220;heart-cut&#8221; and introduced into the second dimension, is a very suitable purification technique when a limited number of substances have to be purified [5,6]. Features contributing to 2D-HPLC popularity are high purification potential, reproducibility, robustness, high throughput and unattended operation.Auxin (indole-3-acetic acid, IAA) and abscisic acid (ABA) are plant hormones with contrasting biological functions.Whereas IAA stimulates growing processes such as cell elongation and division, ABA controls plant senescence and responses to stress [1].However, IAA and ABAexhibit many similar chemical properties which can be exploited for their chromatographic purification.​


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## eza82 (Feb 11, 2009)

*Greenhouse Management / Engineering usesing Growth Regulators PGR`s*

http://www.umass.edu/umext/floriculture/fact_sheets/greenhouse_management/pgr.html


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## eza82 (Feb 11, 2009)

*MORE PGR`s on retail shelves......*

*Florel, Pistill Brand.* This PGR is an ethylene-generating compound used to stimulate branching. Pistill can substitute for hand pinching ivy geranium, cutting geranium, lantana, verbena, and vinca vine. Apply 500 ppm at the normal time of pinching and at least 6-8 weeks before bloom. 
*Fascination and Fresco.* These are new PGRs introduced to increase the postharvest quality of plants. The active ingredients are gibberellins and cytokinins which are known to increase cell length, increase cell division, and improve chlorophyll retention. They are both labeled for preventing lower leaf yellowing and necrosis and delaying flower senescence on Easter lilies and other potted lilies. Fascination has an expanded label that covers usage on annuals, perennials and poinsettias. 
*Ethylbloc.* This is another antiethylene compound which can prevent flower drop and leaf yellowing on bedding plants. The unique feature of this chemical is that it is applied as a gas to plants in an enclosed environment (e.g., tight greenhouse, special growth room, back of a truck). Quite a number of plants are listed on the Ethylbloc label including begonia, fuchsia, geranium, impatiens, salvia, and snapdragons. These species are quite sensitive to ethylene and often drop flowers or develop yellowed leaves during shipping

Others to come :
A-Rest
B-Nine
Bonzi
Paczol
Piccolo 
Cycocel
Chlormiquat 
E-Pro 2
Sumagic
Concise 
Topflor


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## eza82 (Feb 11, 2009)

*chlorophyll* 
Plants have the unique ability to make their own food. They have *chlorophyll *in their leaf cells and sometimes in their branches and stems, as in cactus. Plants pull water from the soil and take in carbon dioxide from the air. These raw materials, mixed by chlorophyll with energy from the light of the sun, make a more complex substance called sugar. 
It all sounds pretty simple, but it's a very complicated process that I won't go into here. 
Why do green plants make sugar? That's easy, for food. Think about the life of a sugar maple tree. During the spring and summer, it basks in the sun, pulling water from the soil and carbon dioxide from the air and pumping sugary sap into the roots. The next spring, when it needs lots of food to grow new leaves, the stored sap from the roots rises and the sugar feeds the growth. 


Chlorophyll is the producer of the energy we, and the rest of the animals on Earth, burn during our daily lives. 
Sugar manufactured by plants is chemically changed into more complex starches, oils and proteins with energy stored in the chemical bonds. Animals, including humans, take plant leaves, flowers, fruits and roots, eat them and break them back down into simpler materials. That releases the energy stored by plants and that energy maintains life. 
Releasing the energy from food, called respiration, is the opposite of photosynthesis. 

One last note here is that plants themselves respire. 
Producing food isn't a benevolent act on the part of plants done because they enjoy having animals running around the fields and forests. Plants make food so that they can also burn some of that food to stay alive. 
In the end, if it weren't for green plants and their clever alchemy of photosynthesis, animals wouldn't exist. 
Non-green plants have entirely lost their ability to produce chlorophyll. Because they still need food to live, these plants depend on other sources of food to live. They are wildflowers that are more like animals than the other plants of the forest. 

http://www.pittsburghlive.com/x/pitt.../s_371842.html
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Maybey YOU CAN "SUBSITUTE" co2 through dodging the process of Chlorophyll, and directly introduceing the right sugars & amino`s to your buds..........?????????????


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## eza82 (Feb 12, 2009)

Estrogen
Estrogen (birth control pil;l) my research;.
"estrogen" actually refers to any of a group... of chemically similar hormones; estrogenic hormones are sometimes mistakenly referred to as exclusively female hormones when in fact both men and women produce them in humans/animals.

Plants have a different form;
Phytoestrogens (plant-derived estrogen are a variety of synthetic chemicals and natural plant compounds that are thought to mimic the female hormone estrogen.) ....

Plants contain many types of phytoestrogens; additionally, they contain minerals and other constituents. 
Red clover, for instance, is mineral-rich and contains all four of the *major types* of phytoestrogens: *lignans, coumestans, isoflavones, and resorcylic acid lactones *but these are realativley un tested on flowering plants.

ANyways 
-Plant hormones, including most phytoestrogens anyways.
-Plants which are exceptionally rich in phytoestrogens are regarded as powerful herbal medicines. Plants which are good sources of phytoestrogens are regarded as foods.

So my suggestion is get RED Clover which is extrodinarly high in phytoestrogens, and emulsifie and water. Which would give you a result im sure if you feed enough of it....

Or just have a really good *food* based organic fertz ie; fish emulsion.... But these would have tiny amounts of phytoestrogen.

Basically.... no need for extra phytoestrogen if you are doseing other hormones, the plant will naturally produce it...... I think you would be better off useing a high k (or PHOS) NPK fertz, you will get better results.... 

I cant see it helping regardless of what people say, & there is no need..


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## eza82 (Feb 12, 2009)

summary of hormones used in feed schedual

GROW;

Gibberellin (GA3) and thiamin ( or the B group of vitimins in way of Super thrive & Hyderolysate)-treated plants showed a greater nitrogen metabolism : = Stem lengthening = To re-gen clones quicker... 
Net weight even decreased somewhat [ Lost Other elements also I think (as well as N) I think in the way of carbon and ethylene gases that are stored in the cells... the plant released or used Im not sure....]
Chlorophyll decreased noticeably though and some showed a pale yellow on lower leaves and a fluro like green... 
Plants treated with GA3 EATS *N* FAST so im useing ;Clone xcellarator as my extra source of nitorgen- to compansate the xtra N being processed by the plant.... And at higher doses of GAA I can controll hieght....

BRASSINOLIDE & IAA/IBA= It will increase a plants resistance to stress (cold, drought, too high a salt content), it helps the plant locate light, it strengthens a plants resistance to disease. It will also stimulate a plant to grow it's overall root mass...Transperant Roots seem to be comeing out of the ground toward the light so something is going on..... 

Silica - Wieght additive gets stored with in plant cells naturally to help counter the wieght loss. ( we are talking MICRO GRMS) Ultimately this will produce a Fuller bud.

FLOWER:

BEN-6 :
Effects are Latrial growth giving it thicker and stronger stems, healthier and larger leaves (more surface area to capture light) at 300 ppm. 
I will be sparying @300ppm at the end of the 4th week of flowring there is a dramatic increase in bud growth. Combined with the earlier spraying of Brassinlide , the end result is i hope: quality and yield & HELP TO SUPPORT themselves or BUD Mass 

(which didnt work ONLY because they have already been tied up two days ago or 5th day into 3rd week of flower){which is unusal considering they would tilt usually around 7 weeks and we would have to tie 1 or 2 branchs..... this time its EVERY large branch and the crown......}

NAA in way of La Femme is a female hormone which induces predominance of female flowers (more defined & bigger pistil ). It is most effective when used as a foliar spray during the initial flower bud formation or the change of lights. It was sparyed twice in total.... 1 week apart ( which @moment the pistils have not gone through any chage they are still in ONLY growth.. as in there is no browning of pistil at all. usually I will see alittle deteration in some pistil, they look fresh)

Useing also dutch master Penatrator

& also looking at *ethylene* (sensa spray) for last 2 weeks of flower in a folia dose or two..... This I hope along with the Aminos & Carbs ( plant sugars ) should aid natural C02, it produces a gases atmosphere high in ethylene which in turn the plant will use to make Co2 by passing the need for a Chlorophyll to chemically induce food for growth & greener more robust leaf................ 
It is a folia spray direct to Phloem &#8211; (Food transporting tissue of a plant in all parts of leaf and stem /giving it sugar/food directly to the bud. ) the natural co2 production and Ethylene, should both be stored with in the plant cells to give fuller buds.....
__________________


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## eza82 (Feb 13, 2009)

The basis of my Theory: Part 1
Hormones.
*Auxin* would be released when cells contains more than enough sugar, and all other environmental conditions are favorable for growth. 

*Abscisic Acid* might signal a need emergency action under most kinds of rapidly developing environmental stress, not just water shortages. ABA's main role is clearly resistance to drought conditions though. & ABA induced stomata closing. Considered an inhibitor.

Complimentarily, *Salicylic Acid* may be the hormone released when things are running normally and no special rapid response is needed from the plant. It might be the "feel good" hormone. 

*Jasmonic Acid* is a gibberellin under experiment but looks to be growth stimulator.

*Cytokinin* would be made when cells have enough nutrients of the sort normally provided by the root, mainly water and minerals and all other conditions are favorable for growth.

*Gibberellin/Brassinostreroid* would be made when mature cells have less than enough shoot nutrients, i.e. sugar and Oxygen to survive especially if environmental conditions are poor. "GAA intensified the growth of the plants, the average dry weight per plant, the photosynthesis rate, the sugar content (especially of the stem) and that of total N, and the respiration rate, but decreased the content of chlorophyll in the leaves. 

*Ethylene* might be released when mature cells are receiving less than enough nutrients normally received from the roots, mainly minerals and water, to support life at all, thus senescence of the cell is warranted. Again this effect may be accentuated by poor environmental conditions.


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## eza82 (Feb 13, 2009)

Ca
--- Calcium gives cannabis very strong, fibrous, short stems with dark green leaves and swollen flowers. An adequate supply is vital in the 6th-9th weeks of growth. The largest absorption of Ca is made possible when calcium carbonate is applied together with small doses of humus. 
(56)
Calcium-deficient plants are stunted, weak and flabby. Terminal buds die, and the stem becomes brittle and covered with dark areas. Upper leaves are darker than usual, yellow at the edges, and they crinkle, dry up, and fall off. Any new leaves that form will die. Brown and white spots appear on lower leaves. Excessive Ca will stunt the early growth of cannabis, and causes terminal shoots to be weak and under-developed. Foliage is less abundant, and blackening occurs around the veins. The stems are fibrous and woody, with a hollow pith. The sex ratio changes to males 7:3 females. Calcium affords plants considerable resistance to infection with Botrytis; the higher the level of calcium, the lower the incidence of Botrytis
.


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## eza82 (Feb 13, 2009)

PART 2# Minerals & Micronutrients
The nutrient uptake by cannabis reaches it maximum just before maturity and blossoming. 
Nitrogen and phosphorus uptake then increase up to 250%, and potassium requirements increase 400%. 
The uptake of calcium and magnesium increases 150%. Additional amounts of nutrients must be readily available to the plants at that time in order to produce maximum yields. 
Cannibis consumes about 1 kg of nutrients for each kg of bud it produces. 

*N *
Causes cannabis to grow rapidly as seedlings, but the plants wilt, turn to copper-brown. 
High levels of N in the middle of the growth cycle will cause water uptake to increase.Excess N added inhibits stem development. 
Best results are obtained by adding half of the required N in the primary treatment, and the second half at the first feeding. If the initial growth of a plant is slow, it can be aided by a foliar spray

*P *: "To obtain high yields, it is necessary to assure the plants an easily accessible source of phosphoric acid 
by applying granulated superphosphate at the very beginning of development, best absorption is before the plants have reached the phase of 6 pairs of leaves. concentration of THC are positively correlated with extractable phosphate. Cannabis uses 250% more phosphorus at flowering than during the vegetative phase

*K *
The absorption of K is most intense in the 4th week after germination. The supply of K should be reduced by 50% during flowering.

*Ca*
--- Calcium gives cannabis very strong, fibrous, short stems with dark green leaves and swollen flowers. An adequate supply is vital in the 6th-9th weeks of growth

*Trace Elements* 
--- Micronutrient deficiencies often are caused by alkaline water, which prevents uptake by plants. Such deficiencies usually can be covered by the use of commercially available "transplanting solutions" and by adjusting the grow medium to neutral pH. 

*Mg *--- Cannabis is very sensitive to magnesium deficiency, Hemp has an extraordinarily high requirement for Mg, and is exceptional in comparison to most other plants, which are killed by applications of Mg alone. Combinations of K and Mg give the highest yields, which increase considerably with an increase in the MgA. 
Haraszty conducted experiments for 10 years to augment the yield of hemp fiber with macro- and micronutrients (tested in over 50 combinations). He found significant effects with formulations containing K, Mn and Mg (applied in the form of their sulfates at 10 kg/ha), by which he achieved up to 32% increases in fiber quantity

*Fe
*--- Powdered magnetite (magnetic iron oxide) will supply sufficient Fe, and it stimulates plant growth by the effect of magnetic energy. 10 ppm of Fe gives the best growth ; 5 ppm gives the best yield for flower.

*Mn* 
--- A deficiency of manganese will stunt the growth and flowering of hemp. Leaves appear mottled with grey-brown necrotic spots. The plants lack vitamin C; there are some deaths. Signs of deficiency first appear on shoots. Leaf margins remain green while the rest of the leaf turns yellow or white. 
*S* 
--- Sulfur stimulates root growth and seed production. S-deficient hemp is pale green, with purple veins. The stem is stiff, woody, and thin; the seeds are immature. 

*B* 
--- Boron . When sufficient P and K are available, an additional application of boric acid ,Cu-sulfate, and Mn-sulfate will produce a significant increase in yields and in the quality. A deficiency of B is revealed by cracked, stunted stems and dry rot. Leaves turn purple, terminal shoots curl and die, petioles become brittle, and the flowers are covered with dry areas. New shoots turn gray or brown and die with a burnt appearance. The situation can be corrected with a foliar spray of boric acid. 

*Cu
*--- Cannabis does not have a high tolerance for copper, but supplementary Cu-sulfate will improve the quality and yield of cannabis, especially in peat, which often is deficient in this element. A deficiency causes stems to weaken and break. 

*Mo
*--- A deficiency of molybdenum is indicated by yellowing between veins on leaves. The middle leaves turn yellow. 
*Zn*
--- A deficiency of zinc is indicated by chlorosis between the veins at the base of shoots, and by the accompanying twist of leaf blades. 
Flowering is inhibited. Over-watering produces symptoms resembling nutrient deficiencies or excesses. These usually can be corrected by reducing the water supply, or by drainage

PART 3
The production of cannabinoids (THC, CBN, CBD, etc.) is greatly influenced by nutrients. 
As soil N increases relative to Mg, CBD increases relative to CBN. Increasing the ratio of N to Cu increases the level of CBD. Increasing amounts of P convert CBN to THC. 
Low to medium levels of P produces a high level of CBD, but CBD decreases with high levels of P.
Low levels (levels less than 40 ppm) of Mg produce more CBD than do high levels of Mg. As levels of Mg increase relative to Ca, the concentration of THC decreases. 
The concentration of Mg and Fe in leaves is positively correlated to THC levels.
Potassium increases the concentration of CBN by effecting the dehydrogenation of THC. An excess of K in the 3rd month will inhibit resin production. Excess Ca will inhibit resin production, and it increases the production of CBD in the resin is produced. 
Either an excess or deficiency of Mg produces more CBD. 5 ppm Fe gives highest yields of THC. 

The recommended "ideal" pattern of nutrient application for cannabinoid production is said to be: high N and K, low Ca, and medium Mg during the first 2 months of growth, continued high N and K, medium Mg, and increased Ca during the next 6-8 weeks, followed by decreased N, K, and Ca, and increased Mg through the flowering phase. 

Many growers use a commercial 15-30-30 formula throughout the season. 

Mel Frank offers this micronutrient formula for high cannabinoid production: Fe-sulfate (5 mg/gal), Cu-sulfate (0.2 mg/gal), Mn-sulfate (2 mg/gal), Zn-sulfate (0.2 mg/gal), Boric acid (2 mg/gal), Molybdenic acid (0.1 mg/gal). Use 1 tspn/gal of nutrient solution, once monthly. Bill Drake gives this recipe in 

marijuana: The Cultivator&#8217;s Handbook
: Ca-sulfate (6 oz), mono-Ca-phosphate (4 oz), Mg-sulfate (6 oz), K-nitrate (8 oz), and Fe-sulfate (1 gr). Use 1 tspn/gal.


----------



## eza82 (Feb 13, 2009)

part 4 # MY THEORY ! ON BIG FAT FEMALES...................

*The entire plant contains several hundred known chemicals/hormones/vitimins etc*
*But the sexual expression of cannabis is determined by its genetic makeup, and by its metabolic temper,*
*Which is regulated by the male enzyme andrase and the female enzyme gynase. *
*Environmental & atmosphereic conditions (light, nutrients, soil and water) are keys and may suppress or induce the formation of the dominant enzyme, and allow the opposite sex to express itself partially (hermaphroditism) or completely as a THC bleeding beautiful lady.*
*Transition of female cannibis plants from the vegetative to the flowering phase is associated with a rise in Phos and cytokinin level, while that of male proceeds at a decreasing cytokinin level with an increase in Nitrogen. *
*The activity of cytokinins,avalablity of Gibberellin and level of PHOS are all apparently associated with an enhancement of the female tendency. *


----------



## eza82 (Feb 13, 2009)

Triacontanol is a fatty alcohol found in many plants. It increases growth rates and yields up to 25%, and increases the protein content, even during darkness when plants usually are dormant. Triacontanol seems to enhance the growth of plants without increasing their consumption of nitrogen. The simplest way to use triacontanol is to plow under a crop of alfalfa, which contains relatively large amounts of the substance. Triacontanol is extracted from sunflower seeds or alfalfa by chloroform; filter and evaporate the solution to yield crude triacontanol. The dosage is 1 ppm in water.


----------



## eza82 (Feb 13, 2009)

*FEM SEEDS YOUR SELF..*
*The following procedure will produce seeds which will grow 100% female *
*: Cultivate two separate groups of female plants indoors. The plants should receive at least 50 watts of light per square foot of growing area. One group must not receive more than 7 hours of light daily. This will induce male flowers to manifest on the female plants. The second group of females must receive about 16 hours of light daily to ensure that no male flowers develop on them. The long photoperiod also inhibits the development of flowers so much that the short-day plants will mature 2 or 3 weeks before the long-day group. Therefore, begin cultivating the long-day females at least 2 weeks before planting the short-day plants. As the two groups approach maturity, remove any males which may appear. A few weeks before the male hemp begins to flower, the internodes of the stem begin to elongate very quickly. The dominant male enzyme andrase produces thin plants with a tuft of leaves at the top. The leaves are smaller than those of the females, and have fewer leaflets (usually 5). Tiny buds sometimes appear in the nodes about 2/3 up the stalk. The future sexual expression of hemp may be determined by examining these premature flowers. If the buds remain erect, the plant is female. If the buds droop, the plant is male. When clusters of female buds begin to appear on plants in the long-day group, cover each bud with a transparent plastic bag sealed with a rubber band around the stem below the bud cluster, so as to protect the flowers from accidental pollination. When male buds appear on some of the female plants in the short-day group, cover each bud with a transparent bag sealed with a rubber band around the stem below the bud cluster, so as to protect the female flowers from accidental pollination. When male buds appear on some of the females in the short-day group, carefully cut off every male bud and store them in a glass jar. Any new male buds which appear also must be pruned. Within a few days the anthers of the clipped buds will open and release pollen. Collect this pollen and apply it with a thin brush to the stigmas of the bagged flowers in the long-day group. Because this pollen contains only female chromosomes, the fertilized female flowers on the long-day female group will develop seeds which will produce only female plants.*
 
*How To Reverse Sex Using Silver Thiosulfate Solution*



---------------------------------


METHOD 1#

How To Reverse Sex Using Silver Thiosulfate Solution 

The following is a safe, inexpensive, and successful method for reversing the sex of female cannabis plants. Individual plant responses may vary based upon strain, but I can verify that this process is fully effective in stimulating profuse staminate flower production. 

This process can be used to:

A: create new feminized seeds from solitary prize mothers that you currently have
B: create interesting feminized-seed hybrids from different prize strains that you currently have
C: create feminized seeds for optimum outdoor use
D: accelerate the "interview" phase of cultivation, in searching for interesting new clone-mothers 
E: reduce total plant numbers- great for medical users with severe plant number restrictions
F: increase variety, by helping to create stable feminized seedlines to be used as an alternative to clones

At the bottom of this post are some specific details about the chemicals used, their safety, their cost, and where to get them. 

It is important to educate yourself about cannabis breeding theory and technique prior to using a method like this one. Here is a link to Robert Clarke's "Marijuana Botany", which is a very good reference. 


1. mix 2.6 grams of sodium thiosulphate into 600ml of distilled water and mix thoroughly.

2. mix .7 grams of silver nitrate into 100ml of distilled water and mix thoroughly.

3. mix silver nitrate solution into sodium thiosulphate solution while stirring rapidly.

4. top off mixture with distilled water to fill a glass quart jar (canning jar type).

5. use this mix at a 3:1 ratio with distilled water and spray plants to point of run-off.

6. repeat process in 3 days, move target females in at 5 days.

use common safety precautions. rubber gloves, safety glasses, skin covered, respirator preferred.

3:1 ratio of distilled water to stock mix of STS can be played with some. some people use it as diluted as 9:1 and some run it as hot as 1:1.


"Marijuana Botany" by Robert Connell Clarke
(unfortunately missing the appendices)
http://www.geocities.com/hempgenes/Botany.html

It is also important to use basic safety precautions when mixing and handling these chemicals, so read the safety data links provided. The risk is similar to mixing and handling chemical fertilizers, and similar handling procedures are sufficient.

Remember: nothing will ever replace good genetics, and some of your bounty should always go back towards the professional cannabis breeders out there... the ones who have worked for many generations to come up with their true-breeding F1 masterpieces. Support professional breeders by buying their seeds. Also, order from Heaven's Stairway. Not that they need a plug from me, but they are very professional and provide very fast service worldwide.


METHOD 2#

First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.

Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. (See material safety data sheet links below). Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.

Part A: .5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water
Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water

The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.

The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).

This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.

Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss. Excess working solution can be safely poured down the drain after use (with ample running water) with negligible environmental impact. It's pretty cheap.

Each liter of stock STS will make ten 1-liter batches of working solution of STS. With the minimum amount of base chemicals ordered from Photographer's Formulary (see link below), this means that each 1-liter bottle of working solution STS costs less than 9 cents, and can treat 15-20 mid-sized plants. That's 200 1-liter batches of STS for $18. Note that the distilled water costs far more than the chemicals.



The STS working solution is sprayed on select female plants until runoff. Do the spraying over newspaper in a separate area from the flower room. You probably won't smell anything, but ventilate anyway. You now have what I call a "F>M plant"; a female plant that will produce male flowers.

After the F>M plant dries move it into 12/12 immediately. This is usually done three to four weeks prior to the date that the target (to be pollinated) plants will be ready to pollinate. Response times may vary slightly depending upon the strain. More specific times can be determined by trial with your own individual strains. In my trials it took 26 days for the first pollen. 30-35 days seems optimum for planning purposes.

So, assuming that a target plant needs 3-4 weeks to produce fully mature seeds, a strain that takes 8 weeks to mature should be moved into flower at about the same time as the female>male plant. A target plant that finishes flowering in 6 weeks needs to be moved into flower later (10 days or so) so that it doesn't finish before the seeds can fully mature.

A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on for the plant for it to stay healthy.

Effects:

Within days I noticed a yellowing of the leaves on the F>M plants. This effect persisted for two weeks or so; after this they became green again, except for a few of the larger fans. The plants otherwise seemed healthy. No burning was observed. Growth stopped dead for the first ten days, and then resumed slowly. No stretch was ever seen. After two weeks the F>M plants were obviously forming male flower clusters. Not just a few clusters of balls, but complete male flower tops. One plant still formed some pistillate flowers, but overall it was predominantly male.

It is strange indeed to see an old girlfriend that you know like the back of your hand go through a sex change. I'll admit that things were awkward between us at first. 

When the F>M plants look like they may soon open and release pollen, ( 3-1/2 to 4 weeks) move them from the main flower room into another unventilated room or closet with lighting on a 12/12 timer. Don't worry too much about watts per square foot; it will only be temporary. 

When the pollen flies, move your target plants into the closet and pollinate. 

A more controlled approach is to isolate the F>M plants in a third remote closet (no light is necessary in this one, as they are releasing pollen now and are nearly finished anyway). In this remote other closet the pollen is very carefully collected in a plastic produce bag or newspaper sleeve and then brought back to the lighted closet, where the target plants are now located. If this is done, be careful to not mix pollen types by letting the F>Ms dust each other. Avoid movement, or use yet another closet. 

Take special care to not let pollen gather on the outside of this bag- a static charge is sometimes present. Drop small open clusters of blooms inside and then close the bag at the mouth and shake. Important: next, step outside and slowly release the excess air from the bag, collapsing it completely, so that pollen doesn't get released accidently. Point downwind; don't let it get on your hands or clothes.

This collapsed pollinated bag is now very carefully slipped over only one branch and is then tied off tightly at the mouth around the branch stem with a twist tie or tape, sealing the pollen inside. Let the bag inflate slightly with air again before sealing it off, so the branch can breathe. This technique keeps the entire plant from seeding. Agitate the bag a bit after tying it off to distribute the pollen. Don't forget to label the branch so you know which seeds are which. Other branches on this same plant can be hit with different pollen sources.

If no lighted closet is available, the plant can be moved back into the main room, but- be very careful: pollen is sneaky. After 4-5 days, the bag is gently removed and the plant completes it's flowering cycle. 

Yet another method has worked well for me. I position the target plants in a non-ventilated lighted closet, and then I collect pollen on a piece of mirror or glass. This is then carefully applied to the pistils of one pre-labeled branch by using a very fine watercolor paintbrush. Care is taken to not agitate the branch or the pollen. No sneezing. The plant needs to be in place first; moving it after pollination can shake pollen free and blow this technique. 

Regardless of technique, at completion you will have feminized seeds. Let them dry for 2-4 weeks.



Silver nitrate is a white crystalline light-sensitive chemical that is commonly used in photography. It is also used in babies' eyes at birth to prevent blindness. It can cause mild skin irritation, and it stains brown. Avoid breathing. I didn't notice any smell or fumes, but ventilation is recommended. Be sure to wash the spray bottle well before you use it elsewhere; better yet: devote a bottle to STS use. A half gram is a surprisingly small amount; it would fit inside a gel capsule. 

Here are links to some safety data. A Google search will bring up more information if needed.

Silver Nitrate info:
http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/ipcsneng/neng1116.html
http://www.lions.odu.edu/~redwards/... solution.pdf

For a realistic hazard level comparison, here is a link for the safety and handling data for Ammonium Nitrate, or common fertilizer:
http://www.skcgulfcoast.com/nioshdb...ng/neng0216.htm

Sodium thiosulfate is also a white crystalline chemical commonly used in photography; it is used in photographic fixers. Same general cautions apply, minus the staining. This formula uses the anhydrous type. Non-hazardous. 

Sodium Thiosulfate info:
http://ptcl.chem.ox.ac.uk/MSDS/SO/s...hiosulfate.html
http://www.med-chem.com/MSDS/Sodium_Thiosulf.htm

------------------

Where to get the chemicals:

http://www.photoformulary.com

silver nitrate: 10 grams: $10
http://www.photoformulary.com/Deskt...yID=27&langID=0

sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous): 100 grams: $3.95
http://www.photoformulary.com/Deskt...yID=28&langID=0

Postage runs around $4. Fast service. Can be shipped to Canada.







STS For Sex Reversal: Conclusions 

I wanted to post some conclusions that I have come to regarding the successful reversal of plants using silver thiosulfate solution. It's been a year since I posted the other STS thread. I have done six batches myself, and have had full pollen release with all of them. Everyone else seems to be doing well, but there is very little feedback so who knows. A big thanks to those who contributed to the other thread... your input was a big help in refining the technique. 

I was going to edit the original post, but I can't, as I am THE Country Mon now, not just Country Mon. Changed my email addy and got locked out.

There has been one key change that I want to pass along to everyone who didn't want to sift through the 25+ pages of the original thread.

I have discovered that using a stronger concentration of STS does not make a plant more likely to produce pollen. It just burns/stresses the plant. What DOES make a plant much more likely to complete it's mission and make pollen is a second spraying at the end of week 2.

My conclusion is that STS in any concentration is only effective at inhibiting ethylene for about 3 weeks; at that point the plant's natural female metabolism begins to take back control, and even a plant that is covered with male blooms can't finish the journey to manhood and produce pollen. A second spraying allows inhibition to last through week 6, which is more than enough time to release pollen.

Some of you have decided to use stronger concentrations of STS. This is fine as long as it doesn't burn your plants. Obviously there is a wide range of usable formulas that will work. But the second spraying is the key to follow-through. You can store the working solution you used for round one (in the spray bottle) in your refrigerator for two weeks; no need to mix a new batch from stock.

I don't see the point of going any stronger than the formula I originally came up with. It has proven itself many times over. The only change I might make is to adjust it slightly to Gobgoober's "molar-correct" mix ratio. This is not at all necessary, but does allow the most effective use of the chemicals together.

Here's a re-post of the formula mix instructions, with the adjusted recipe below that:

Preparation of STS:

First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.

Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. (See material safety data sheet links below). Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.

Part A: .5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water
Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water

The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.

The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).

This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.

Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss.

METHOD 3#

The adjusted formula is as follows:

Part A: .7 gram silver nitrate stirred into 40ml distilled water
Part B: 2.6 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 160 ml distilled water

Next, slowly add the silver nitrate solution to the sodium thiosulfate solution while stirring. This combination is then added to 800 ml of distilled water to equal 1 liter. This is your final stock solution. It is diluted 1:9 with more distilled water to make your final working solution, which then gets sprayed on your target plant.

Either formula will work great, so don't sweat it too much. But do that second spraying at the end of week 2... seems to be the key for getting pollen from the more difficult strains.





----------------------------------------

Here is a link to the .pdf file: http://www.ias.ac.in/jbiosci/dec2002/651.pdf --

*He states that fertile male flowers can be induced in female cannabis plants using:*
*gibberellins (GAs) and anti-ethylene agents such as:*
*silver nitrate (AgNO3)*
*silver thiosulphate anionic complex (STS)*
*aminoethoxyvinyl glycene (AVG)*
*and cobalt chloride (CoCl2).*

As this was an aside mentioned in the larger context of Dr. Ram's life work, he does not go into detail regarding the methods of application of these chemicals to achieve the sex reversal. I'm sure the papers Vic mentioned will give the specifics, here they are again (thanks Vic):

Mohan Ram H Y and Juiswal VS. 1972. Induction of male flowers on female plants of Cannabis sativa by gibberellins and its inhibition by abscisic acid. Plants, 105:263-266.

Mohan Ram H Y and Sett R. 1981. Modification of growth and sex expression in Cannabis sativa by aminoethoxyvinylglycine and ethephon. Z. Pflanzenphysiol., 105:165-172.

Mohan Ram H Y and Sett R. 1982. Induction of fertile male flowers in genetically female Cannabis sativa plants by silver nitrate and silver thiosulphate anionic complex. Theor. Appl. Genet., 62:369-375


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## eza82 (Feb 13, 2009)

THIS WAS INTRESTING (FOR OUT DOOR COMPOST FOR FLOWER)
Or emulsions as fertz/minreal feed.

Pumpkin leaves, raw Phosphorus: 1095mg 
Watercress, raw Phosphorus: 1091mg 
Mushrooms, portabella, raw [Portabello] Phosphorus: 1000mg 
Mushrooms, brown, Italian, or Crimini, raw Phosphorus: 889mg 
Squash, zucchini, baby, raw Phosphorus: 886mg 
Mushrooms, portabella, grilled [Portobello] Phosphorus: 857mg 
Mushrooms, white, stir-fried Phosphorus: 808mg 
Mushrooms, white, raw Phosphorus: 782mg 
Pumpkin leaves, cooked, boiled, drained, with salt Phosphorus: 752mg 
Pumpkin leaves, cooked, boiled, drained, without salt Phosphorus: 752mg 
Amaranth leaves, cooked, boiled, drained, with salt Phosphorus: 686mg 
Amaranth leaves, cooked, boiled, drained, without salt Phosphorus: 686mg 
Broccoli raab, raw [Broccoli rabe, Rapini] Phosphorus: 664mg 
Balsam-pear (bitter gourd), leafy tips, raw Phosphorus: 660mg 
Pumpkin flowers, raw Phosphorus: 653mg 
Seaweed, irishmoss, raw Phosphorus: 641mg 
Mushrooms, cooked, boiled, drained, with salt Phosphorus: 621mg 
Mushrooms, cooked, boiled, drained, without salt Phosphorus: 621mg 
Alfalfa seeds, sprouted, raw Phosphorus: 609mg 
Fiddlehead ferns, raw Phosphorus: 594mg 
Mushrooms, white, microwaved Phosphorus: 577mg 
Dock, raw Phosphorus: 573mg 
Cabbage, chinese (pak-choi), raw Phosphorus: 569mg


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## eza82 (Feb 13, 2009)

DIY RAW PUMKIN LEAF OR ALFALFA - OUTDOOR FLOWER ????EMULSION ( ONE OFF )
bECAUSE OF THE HIGH POTASSIUM - THIS WOULD HAVE TO BE REVIEWED. MAYBEY FINDING SOMETHING WITH LESS P.​ 
iNGREDIENTS based on 39grms​ 
Minerals​ 
Calcium
15.2 mg
2%

Iron
0.9mg
5%

Magnesium
14.8mg
4%

Phosphorus
40.6mg
4%

Potassium
170mg
5%

Sodium
4.3mg
0%

Zinc
0.1mg
1%

Copper
0.1mg
3%

Manganese
0.1mg
7%

Selenium
0.4mcg
1%

Fluoride
~
AS well as

Vitamin A, Vitamin C, Thiamin, Riboflavin, Niacin, Vitamin B6, Folate, Iron, Magnesium, Phosphorus, Potassium, Copper and Manganese

or 
*Alfalfa seeds, sprouted, raw*
Calcium
10.6
mg
1%
Iron
0.3
mg
2%

Magnesium
8.9
mg
2%

Phosphorus
23.1
mg
2%

Potassium
26.1
mg
1%

Sodium
2.0
mg
0%

Zinc
0.3
mg
2%

Copper
0.1
mg
3%

Manganese
0.1
mg
3%

Selenium
0.2
0%

Fluoride


----------



## eza82 (Feb 16, 2009)

*Make organic tea.......* from manure and your compost in 2-3 days
Get a clean container ( a bucket, a pail or large jug ), add a gallon of unchlorinated water, pour in what ever manure you intend to use. Bubble it with a cheap aquarium air pump / air stone for two days. Turn off pump, let settle for one hour & it's ready to pour into your feeding container. 
.
Now, some people put their manure in a sock of some sort, like an old sock, panty hose or a old pillow case. That is OK, but I like the extra manure to water interaction you get from direct contact. More surface area exposed - more nutrients transferred.
.
or
.
Get two similar size containers ( a bucket, a pail or large jug ), add a gallon of unchlorinated water, pour in what ever manure you intend to use. Pour it from one container to the other a couple of times - twice daily for three days. Let settle for one hour, pour into your feeding container.

Bat Guano (Either - Higher N or P) 2 to 4 tablespoons per gallon of water.

Bunny Poop - one cup per gallon of water.

Cow Manure - three cups per gallon of water.

Chicken Manure - one cup per gallon of water.

Worm Castings - 4 tablespoons per gallon of water (people argue about this one the most0. They say more, more is better. I disagree - the NPK value of Worm Castings is only .1 % N (soluble) & .9 % (slow release) with a NPK value of only 1-0-0 Worm Castings will not be adding any real amounts of NPK. What they will add - trace minerals & benefical microogranisms (good bacteria & fungi) so, 4 tablespoons gets the job done.

---------------------------------------------------
Add each of these at the rate of one cup, per gallon of unchlorinated water - unless noted otherwise.

Source N P K 

Rabbit manure 2.4-1.4-.6 
Cow manure (dairy) .6-.2-.5 Both cow manures (3) cups per gallon.
Steer manure (beef) .7-.3-.4 
Chicken manure 1.1-.8-.5 
Horse manure .7-.3-.6 
Duck manure .6-1.4-.5 
Sheep manure .7-.3-.9 
Worm castings 1.0-.0-.0 (4) tablespoons per gallon
.
See not hard, just basic math....
.
Ok & one more just for fun : Elephant Poop is 1-.9-.6 on average (plus it is almost odor free). 
Hotlink about Zoo Doo...

http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpag...56C0A964958260


----------



## spiked1 (Feb 17, 2009)

DaveTheNewbie said:


> did you actually soak the seeds in the soak, or wrap them in paper and try to gas them ?
> 
> EDIT :
> 
> ...


I followed the instructions to a tee (your blue words)
I also tried more and less hours and used up around 100 auto flowering seeds (I use auto's as you can see if they are male or female within 3 weeks)
Most seeds either wouldn't sprout, or had perfectly formed cotyldons but no tap root.


----------



## spiked1 (Feb 17, 2009)

*Some success at last* (or a huge fluke)
I planted 21 auto seeds which usually show sex at arond 2 1/2 to 3 weeks,
I sprayed them with La Femme at 2 weeks.
At 3 weeks I have 20 females and 1 male.
I always average 50% male to female.
So from this I will definately be trying La Femme again.
I have read before that plants decide their sex at 3 to 4 weeks, 
and I have also planted some expensive White Queen seeds at $20 a seed,
they are 2 1/2 weeks old now so maybe I should try La Femme on them,
it would be interesting when I 12/12 them in 2 months time.


----------



## eza82 (Feb 17, 2009)

spiked1 said:


> *Some success at last* (or a huge fluke)
> I planted 21 auto seeds which usually show sex at arond 2 1/2 to 3 weeks,
> I sprayed them with La Femme at 2 weeks.
> At 3 weeks I have 20 females and 1 male.
> ...


nice, look forward to the final count...
... NAA I have found in PLANT START from multicorp....at $5 for 1 liter... also cotains IAA rooting.... So This would make for good comparison if you can...... I would say it be as good if not better.... due to rooting hormone.
the only active ingredients are NAA and IAA..... Essentially rooting hormone and lafemme in one!
I have been useing but....my thinking I had FEM seeds because I have had 100% female from new seedlings. Ive diluted to 1/2 strength, and been watering for for the first week and a half....
But I think we have a winner... NAA.......


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## spiked1 (Feb 17, 2009)

So with the rooting hormone, what would happen if you foliar spray?


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## eza82 (Feb 17, 2009)

Auxins are whats being produced.... which is in the tips of plants and moves to roots in a downward manner......never to return....lol.. in both NAA & IAA
So my assumption will be that the root mass will benifit also. (the obvious ) 

You say....In the first 3-4wks the plant is still decideing on sex (?) I think it also is still deciding on how big the root mass has to be..... doing its calculations on enviromental and atmospheric conditions. To see what potential it has.

......NAA is doing a similar thing only its a PGR. Also helps the plant reproduce protien and good fatty acids and more importantly sugars or energy which inturn....increase activity cyotkinins giving the ability to utilize & store the minreals/vitimins beening provided, to induce cell division/ growth.

So in short yes i think this would be the same in fem attributes, and help with future growth......

use it on a new group and see if the same numbers come out.?


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## DaveTheNewbie (Feb 17, 2009)

spiked1 said:


> *Some success at last* (or a huge fluke)
> I planted 21 auto seeds which usually show sex at arond 2 1/2 to 3 weeks,
> I sprayed them with La Femme at 2 weeks.
> At 3 weeks I have 20 females and 1 male.
> ...


ok so you used lafemme at 2 weeks with success  im interested.
being completely anal and exacting about this, you sprayed exactally how manys days after when ?

like exactally 14 days after seed was germinated, or about 17 odd days after seed sprouted

i want to know exactally when you foliar fed lafemme so i can replicate the experament and see the results on non autoflowering seeds.

ps awesome work


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## Greenisgold (Feb 18, 2009)

Let me start by saying that this is not the greatest side by side as I tied my plants down not knowing I was going to do an experiment. Also, one of the clones was taken from the bottom of the plant, the other towards the top. As you can see one is bigger than the other. I&#8217;m going to spray the smaller of the two (right one), or the one clone that was taken from the bottom of the mom just to see if it will catch up. I&#8217;m also going to spray at week one of flower as I have never done this before. I always spray at the onset of flowers/buds which is usually around day 14-17. so let&#8217;s see what happens when there are just a few white hairs. I&#8217;m using a product that is called tomato bloom spray II.
The one on the left is from the top, the one on the right from the bottom. The left pic was taken right before I sprayed the plants. The second pic. was one week after, and low and behold the plant on the right has over taken the one on the left. I even had to let the tie up on the plant on the left as the one on the right was going to receive more light due to it being closer to the lamp. I can also see that buds started forming just a little bit faster with the one I sprayed, but not much. Now, I&#8217;m going to spray today as well which will be 2 weeks into flower. I also have not done this before, (spray twice). 
Is this a perfect experiment, no? So take it or leave it.


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## spiked1 (Feb 18, 2009)

DaveTheNewbie said:


> ok so you used lafemme at 2 weeks with success  im interested.
> being completely anal and exacting about this, you sprayed exactally how manys days after when ?
> 
> like exactally 14 days after seed was germinated, or about 17 odd days after seed sprouted
> ...


It may have been a fluke but usaually I get 50/50 male female.
Unfortunately I'm completely out of space and low on seeds until I 
breed some more.
So having said that I would need to duplicate my experiment to 
be sure it really did work.


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## eza82 (Feb 18, 2009)

spiked1 said:


> It may have been a fluke but usaually I get 50/50 male female.
> Unfortunately I'm completely out of space and low on seeds until I
> breed some more.
> So having said that I would need to duplicate my experiment to
> be sure it really did work.


 
Probably do both With and with out again..... then we can be sure....


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## DaveTheNewbie (Feb 18, 2009)

spiked1 said:


> It may have been a fluke but usaually I get 50/50 male female.
> Unfortunately I'm completely out of space and low on seeds until I
> breed some more.
> So having said that I would need to duplicate my experiment to
> be sure it really did work.


sure sure i get that,
but i want in, i want to follow your work
so i need to know exactally when you did what if thats ok.


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## spiked1 (Feb 19, 2009)

DaveTheNewbie said:


> sure sure i get that,
> but i want in, i want to follow your work
> so i need to know exactally when you did what if thats ok.


I don't mean to be cagey, but I haven't kept a journal due to spending so much time at work.
It was 2 weeks but maybe a day or 2 more,
I know my Lowryder2 crossed with Durban Poison start flowering in the 3rd week so I quickly made up some La Femme which had been sitting in my cupboard for a while and sprayed them, (sfter feeling inspired by eza82) I also used Penetrator at the recommended dose.
Sorry I can't give you any more info but that's all I did.


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## eza82 (Feb 21, 2009)

*THC*
_*the nxt experiment#*_

I started to think about THC again... a previous post had theory about dose watering leaving it on brink of water starvation....... which is not a bad theory in all just alittle off..... 
IMO it will induce the hormone ABA in which the plant will stop growing ands protect it self ..... it will think its in drouhgt. But this is not nesseceraly a bad thing as my first thought was (less yield)... I dont think this method would work BUT was aong the right lines.....

So I continued to do my research in why MJ produce THC... I have come across many reasons of why & how`s the MJ plant produces THC: like to spread seed by sticking to fur, Black lights,scraping make it think its dieing,types of fertz & poop,rusty nail through stalk and man more carck theories...
this just made me laugh with some of the shit stated.... 

So this is the theory : it comes down to *Environmental Influence again........* The best way to take a look at how environment affects THC production is to look where on the planet cannabis has naturally adopted a high THC profile. As cannabis has spread around the world it has taken on many different traits to help in its adaptation to varied areas such as Afgani, south america,etc. 
*ULTRAVIOLET*
The best drug varieties have always been found at equatorial or high altitude locations. The one thing which both of these variables have in common is high light intensity and a large amount of ultraviolet (UV) light in the spectrum. 
Recent Swiss trials in outdoor plots of clones grown at different altitudes have shown that there is correlation between higher altitude and increased potency (although there seems to be a trade off in yield). 

This likely means that THC-rich resins act to protect the plant and its seed from both higher light intensities and ultraviolet presence. It's no surprise that cannabis has developed a chemical to protect itself against the Sun's damaging UV rays, as they can be injurious to all forms of life.

Therefore a high-THC plant grown in a low THC environment will likely produce a medium THC result.

*Humidity* also plays a role in plant resin production. Although some potent equatorial strains do seem to occur in high humidity areas, most high in thc -tested strains have evolved in drier areas, like Afghanistan. The aridity of the areas of Afghanistan where Indica strains have evolved is quite apparent by the trait of large dense flower clusters. 

There are many examples of non-cannabis plants producing resins in order to protect themselves from drying out. The waxy coating on cacti and other succulent plants is a prime example.

marijuana flowered in humid conditions will often have a longer stalk on the glandular trichome than the same strain grown in drier conditions. While this may give the appearance of being very crystallized, it will likely contain less THC than the same plant grown in a drier environment. Another problem with longer trichome stalks is that the gland heads are more likely to break off during handling.

*Experiment:*
*IM Buying a aquirium light tomorrow! & humidity to around -60% *
*This will be easy to compare THC for I have smoked the same bud for yrs!*
*I will run the light for around 5hrs of the light cycle for the last 3 weeks of flower.*
*note: UV can kill your plants by burning them...*





Catalina 5000k - UVA/UVB 55w
$ 30.00

OR
55W UVB 8.0
[55WUVB]$15.00





 Reptile Light. High desert 8.0 UVB. Good for desert animals. Tortoises, iguanas, desert lizards, snakes, etc. Not good for fish or corals. 

Power: 55 W 

Color: 8.0 UVB Desert Sun 

Length: 22" 

Pins: 4 straight pins


*I will ramp this up slowly - probably up to a 4 globe setting with 6-8hr period at a good distance ... or untill the plants tell me ENOUGH!*





------------------------------------------------------------ 

THIS IS WORTH WATCHING!!!!!!!!!!
Here is the best Youtube vid on the subject and a really good watch, about 15mins, Old school dude but proffesor like stoner... if I have not convinced you he will....

*THC, UVB and Me*

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPcpt3Be28o


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## eza82 (Feb 21, 2009)

This is todays UV index----- Out doors in the top end of australia sounds good !

But what I want to replicate environmentally is : Vietnam
UV Index: 6-11 (Extreme)






Relative Humidity: 56 - 100%%







forecast: 
UV index:sat7 sun8 mon 8 tue8 wen8 thu8 fri8 sat7
Temp max(°C)29 33 35 33 33 33 32 30 Temp min (°C)21 21 23 22 22 22 22 22.

*Some more examples of HIGH THC producing areas and ther UV index*​ 

*Country (City) . J F M A M J J A S O N D*​ 
Brazil (Rio de Janeiro) 23°S 12 11 9 7 5 5 5 7 9 10 12 12​ 
Kenya (Nairobi) 1°S 12 13 13 12 11 10 11 11 12 12 12 11​ 
Vietnam (Hanoi) 21°N 6 8 10 11 11 11 12 12 10 8 6 6​ 

Cuba (Havana) 23°N 6 8 9 10 10 11 12 11 10 8 6 5​ 
Panama (Panama) 9°N 9 11 12 12 11 11 12 12 12 11 9 9​ 
*& for comparison*
Australia (Sydney) 34°S 9 9 7 5 3 2 3 4 6 7 9 10 
Australia (Darwin) 13°S 12 13 12 10 8 8 8 10 11 13 12 12​ 
USA (Los Angeles) 34°N 3 4 6 8 9 10 10 9 7 5 3 2 
USA (New York) 41°N 2 3 4 6 7 8 9 8 6 3 2 1​


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## eza82 (Feb 21, 2009)

Compact Germicidal UV Lamp (15W, 25W, 23W)
*Product Description*
Compact UV Germicidal lamp, Double H shape / Single H shape 
Material: High Purity Quartz Glass 
Voltage: 110 to 230V AC 
Wattage: 15W, 25W, 23W 
Base: E27 / E14 
Lamp diameter: 12mm 
Peak: 253.7nm / 253.7nm+185nm 
Average life time: 8, 000hrs 

Feature: Compact and mini size, easy to install, external ballast is not needed 
Applications: Easily installed in table lamp as a portable sterilizer for Kitchen, Bed room, Office, Elevator, etc. 
Trademark:CnlightModel: 15W, 25W, 23WCompany:Cnlight Co., Ltd.


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## spiked1 (Feb 21, 2009)

This makes a lot of sense to me eza, 
and I think you might be onto something.
I live in a rented townhouse and space is extremely limited,
not to mention the inspections every 3 months.
So obviously there is only so much I can do here.
Good work mate.


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## eza82 (Feb 21, 2009)

spiked1 said:


> This makes a lot of sense to me eza,
> and I think you might be onto something.
> I live in a rented townhouse and space is extremely limited,
> not to mention the inspections every 3 months.
> ...


Thanx, I got goose bumps when I was putting it all together...... If my theroy is correct, Strains like the JAck heres and white widow, could quiet well be stronger with UVA`s, UVB`s applyed in a greenhouse/hydro.

I truely believe that I am onto something............ this is a highly UNDEVELOPED theory and will be refined with my nxt grow expeiments.

But I think that there is ALOT of crap out there about how to induce more THC and I recon that I have read them all.

THIS MAKES SENSE, Thc has been bullied for along time for it origan with no real sucess, if this is true then we could induce much more drastic changes in levels of CBD,CBN,THC


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## eza82 (Feb 21, 2009)

My nxt problem the conversion

exposure to the B-band of ultraviolet light (UVB), light at a wavelength of:
270-315 nm is about where coral and reptiles grow the best; and the range Proffessor stoner said was aroun 270 - 300 nm so my range is in there somewhere.............

The light I have suggested a 55w uva/uvb bulb which is around 350nm - at 1 foot so distance will have to be played with...
And a 25w - putting out 253.7nm - so this will be right up close say on the crown.
note:do not look into globe you will burn eyes
------------------------------------------------------------------------
this will help:

*The Ultraviolet Spectrum*

Ultraviolet refers to all electromagnetic radiation with wavelengths in the range of 10 to 400 nanometers, or frequencies from 7.5E14 to 3E16 Hz. 

The UVA range is wavelengths from 315 to 400 nanometers. Wavelengths from about 345 to 400 nM are used for "Blacklight" effects (causing many fluorescent objects to glow) and are usually very slightly visible if isolated from more visible wavelengths. Shorter UVA wavelengths from 315 to 345 nM are used for suntanning. 

UVB refers to wavelengths from 280 to 315 nanometers. These wavelengths are more hazardous than UVA wavelengths, and are largely responsible for sunburn. The ozone layer partially blocks these wavelengths.
ref: http://members.misty.com/don/uvbulb.html


-------------------------------------------------------------------
what i need is the conversion of nm in respect to the UV output of the sun..... ie: UV of 12 is a NM reading of ??
------------------------------------------------------------------
I have found a breakdown of the light spectrums givin out by uva uvb lights for reptiles....

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]*The "photobiological activity" of a lamp: measuring the UV Index *[/FONT]

http://www.uvguide.co.uk/phototherap...-tests.htm#UVI

the conversion between*watts vs UV vs nm*
this will be helpfull to figure out what light


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## eza82 (Feb 21, 2009)

*UV radiation

*Electromagnetic radiation or "light" is the collective name for all forms of energy that move with the speed of light. There are different "types of light" in the spectrum, depending on their energy, which is related to the wavelength (freqency) of the light: the lower the wavelength, the higher the energy. 

The human eye is sensitive for only a part of the spectrum, referred to as "visible light": between 400 and 780 nm (1 nm = 10-9 meter). The wavelength of the light determines the colour: 400 nm is blue, 700 nm is red. 
The part of the spectrum immediately to the left of blue, between 200 and 400 nm is the ultraviolet light (UV). The UV is usually divided into three components, with increasing energy: 

UV-A: 320-400 nm
UV-B: 280-320 nm
UV-C: 200-280 nm
Of these UV-B is the most dangerous form, since part of it reaches ground level, where it can affect human health (_e.g._ cause certain forms of skin cancer) and damage the DNA of flora and fauna. Note that the wavelength of the division between the UV-A and UV-B bands is sometimes set at 315 nm (see note below). 

The UV-C energy is potentially more dangerous, but it decreases dramatically as ozone increases, because of the strong absorption in the 200-280 nm wavelength band. The UV-B is also strongly absorbed, but a small fraction reaches the surface. The UV-A is only weakly absorbed by ozone, with some scattering of radiation near the surface. 
 
_The curve shows a typical vertical profile of ozone in the midlatitudes of the northern hemisphere: the concentration of ozone as function of altitude. Superimposed on the figure are plots of UV radiation as a function of altitude for UV-A, UV-B and UV-C. The width of the bar indicates the amount of energy as a function of altitude. UV-C is absorbed completely in the stratosphere. Of the global UV radiation at the ground, 94% is UV-A, 6% is UV-B. _
figure adapted from Stratospheric Ozone, An Electronic Textbook 
Atmospheric ozone thus shields life at the surface from most of the harmful components of the solar UV radiation. Chemical processes in the atmosphere can effect the level of protection provided by the ozone in the upper atmosphere. 
Ozone decline in the stratosphere can be caused by: 

Chemical processes resulting from the breakdown of CFCs and other ozone depleting gases.
Changes in the stratospheric meteorology, _e.g._ due to changes in the climate and in trace gases such as nitrous oxide (N2O), water (H2O) and methane (CH4).
Thinning of the atmospheric ozone in the stratosphere leads to elevated levels of UV-B at ground level and increases the risks of DNA damage in living organisms. A 1% decrease in ozone, for example, will lead to an estimated increase of UV-B of about 2%. 

It is therefore important to monitor the UV radiation that reaches the ground. One of the tools for this is the UV index. 



*Note on the UV-A & UV-B wavelength ranges*

The wavelength of the devision between UV-A and UV-B varies in the literature and this may lead to some confusion. 

The _Commission Internationale de l'Éclairage_ (_International Commission on Illumination_) uses 280-315 nm as UV-B and 315-400 nm as UV-A. 
Other sources put the devision point at 320 nm, as in the above given definition. In particular this is done in medical (dermatological) applications, as well as in cosmetics. Also several text books on UV use 320 as devision point. 
To avoid confusion, one could use the following short-hand notation: dUVB for 290-320 nm and dUVA for 320-400 nm, where "d" stands for dermatological, and use UVA and UVB for the 315-nm devision quantities. The use of the prefix "d" is not very common, though. 
Within the TEMIS project, the data supplied are the UV index and UV dose, which cover (parts of) both UV-A and UV-B. The precise wavelength range that is relevant for these quantities depends on the action spectrum applied: 

UV range relevant for *erythema*: 280 - 400 nm
UV range relevant for *general DNA damage*: 256 - 370 nm
ref: http://www.temis.nl/uvradiation/info/index.html


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## eza82 (Feb 21, 2009)

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]REPTILE TEST FOR UVB - this is good for an understanding what ligt puts out what.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]We tested samples of fluorescent lamps from each brand which has been alleged to have caused photo-kerato-conjunctivitis in reptiles, and compared the test results with those from other brands. [/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Broadband UVB meters did not prove very helpful in determining the cause of the problem; they indicated that at the distances at which problems occurred, the total UVB (in microwatts per square centimetre) from these lamps was no higher than that found in natural sunlight. However, total UVB measurements give little indication of the photobiological activity of the lamp. [/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Measurements of the UV Index (which does provide a measure of this) revealed that whereas 100 µW/cm² total UVB from sunlight was recorded as yielding a UV Index of 1.6 &#8211; 2.0, these lamps were producing emissions in which 100µW/cm² total UVB yielded a UV Index of between 8.9 and 14.2. *Light from these lamps would therefore appear to be between four and eight times as photobiologically active as light from the sun. *At close range these lamps were all producing hazardous levels of UVB. [/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Spectrograms indicated that all these lamps utilise a distinctive phosphor of a type used in lamps for testing the deterioration under UVB of resistant materials such as roofing and car bodywork, and in older-style human clinical phototherapy lamps (so-called "FS" lamps). *The lamps we tested from three different brands generate low wavelength UVB, some from as low as 275 - 280nm, whereas the lower limit of UVB in natural sunlight is 290-295nm.* (The phosphor used in many _other_ brands of reptile UVB lamps is of a type used in some human tanning lamps, which mimics the UV in sunlight and produces no UVB at wavelengths below 290nm.) [/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]As well as a much higher proportion of more damaging non-solar UV energy at wavelengths below 295 nm, the lamps with the problem phosphor proved to have a higher _total _UVB output than most other brands of fluorescent reptile UVB lamps. Because much of this is in the more photobiologically active wavelengths, the risk of reaching a threshold dose for photo-kerato-conjunctivitis, and possibly other forms of UV radiation damage, is much greater than with other lamps. [/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]A combination of *other factors* apparently increased the risk of photo-kerato-conjunctivitis with these lamps even further: [/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]In some cases, product literature did not give adequate information. It is essential that lamps are not sold without clear recommendations regarding suitable basking distances and the hazards of over-exposure. Many reptile keepers are unaware that there are any risks associated with close contact with a fluorescent UVB source. The history of fluorescent UVB lamps is such that they are often perceived as "weak" sources of UVB and keepers are often advised to position them close to the reptile. [/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]When placed in aluminium reflectors, in some cases UVB beneath compact lamps was increased by more than 700%. The extreme increase in UVB underneath aluminium reflector domes has not been widely known, or the hazard recognised, either by manufacturers or hobbyists. [/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Most of the lamps have a low visible light output. They are therefore less likely to induce an aversive reaction, or pupillary constriction, when in the reptiles' line of sight. They do not "look like" very intense, direct tropical sunlight.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Most of the UVA output of these lamps is not in the visible UVA range for reptiles, since the threshold for vision is about 350nm. This reduces even further the visual impact of the lamp to the reptile. [/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Fluorescent lamps produce a small amount of heat. This is insufficient to deter a reptile from a close approach, and in fact the gentle warmth may even prove an attraction. [/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Broadband UVB meters such as the Solarmeter 6.2 provide only readings of the total UVB in microwatts per square centimetre. This gives little indication of the photobiological activity of the UVB radiation from this type of lamp. Misleading comparisons of lamp and solar readings taken with these meters may be made, possibly leading to incorrect placement of the lamp, if this is not understood. [/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]*We believe the use of a &#8220;phototherapy&#8221; phosphor in these lamps is a cause for concern. The effects of long-term exposure to non-solar wavelengths on reptiles is unknown, but these wavelengths are far more damaging to living cells than solar wavelengths.*[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] FS lamps have been used widely in research upon cell damage and immunosuppression, and to induce skin tumours in laboratory animals. FS lamps have been used in at least two studies with reptiles which suffered unexpected detrimental effects apparently related to their UV exposure, including photo-kerato-conjunctivitis, depression and death, and skin tumours. Although the compact lamps we tested from ZooMed, and the T5 and T8 tube we tested from R-Zilla are not FS lamps, they do appear to contain the same phosphor. The Big Apple Herpetological Mystic tube and compact lamp we tested, however, have spectra very similar indeed to FS lamps. [/FONT]​

ref: http://www.uvguide.co.uk/phototherapyphosphor-summary.htm​


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## eza82 (Feb 21, 2009)

Spiked we chatting about this on other thread bro come over say hello....... Hormones Vs co2 in sig


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## spiked1 (Feb 21, 2009)

eza82 said:


> Spiked we chatting about this on other thread bro come over say hello....... Hormones Vs co2 in sig


 No prob, I'll just add this link as it may be of interest.

http://users.bigpond.net.au/nutriflo/horms.htm


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## eza82 (Feb 21, 2009)

spiked1 said:


> no prob, i'll just add this link as it may be of interest.
> 
> http://users.bigpond.net.au/nutriflo/horms.htm


 
that link rocks ...has alot of shit on there will come in handy!


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## eza82 (Feb 21, 2009)

this is a link to R&D from GE lighting....... UVB spectrums etc -
http://www.gelighting.com/eu/resources/literature_library/product_brochures/downloads/Horticulture.pdf


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## eza82 (Feb 25, 2009)

hERE IS A HEAP OF PAPERS IVE LOOKED AT.......

*Alfa Aesar*ManufacturerUnited StatesA leading manufacturer of research chemicals, metals and materials including high purity inorganics, organics and organometallics, precious compounds and catalysts, rare earth compounds and metals, labware and more. 
*URL:* http://www.alfa.com/alf/laboratory_chemical_suppliers.htm in English [Translate]




*Advanced Chemistry Development Inc. (ACD/Labs)*United StatesProcess, analyze, and manage Near IR, IR, Far-IR, Raman, UV-Vis, vacuum UV, circular dichroism, microwave spectroscopic data, and any other optical technique that lies within 100 to 10,000,000 nm. 
*URL:* http://www.software4chemistry.com/ in English [Translate]




*Process sensors - moisture measurement*ManufacturerUnited StatesProcess Sensors manufacture NIR reflection on line sensors for measuring moisture in chemical powders. 
*URL:* http://www.processsensors.com/ in English [Translate]




*Shenyang Shepan Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.*ManufacturerChinaThe company is a hi-tech. enterprise for developing and manufacturing the intermediates of drugs, dyes and pesticides in the long terms. 
*URL:* http://www.shenpanchem.com/ in English [Translate]





*Hummel Croton*ManufacturerUnited StatesManufacturer of wide range of inorganic, organic and biochemicals. [More results]
*URL:* http://www.hummelcroton.com/ in English [Translate]




*1.* *Phosphorous, Red MSDS HUMMEL CROTON Inc.**... *754-1800 Chemical Name: &nbsp *Phosphorous*, *Red* Synonym: &nbsp *Red* Amorphous *Phosphorous* CAS Number: &nbsp 7723-14* ... *MSDS Printable Version DATA Sheet *... *
*URL:* http://www.hummelcroton.com/msds/redp_m.html *2.* *RED PHOSPHOROUS AMORPHOUS HUMMEL CROTON**... *& Conditions E-Mail Sales *RED* *PHOSPHOROUS* AMORPHOUS &nbsp &nbsp &nbsp &nbsp*RED* *PHOSPHOROUS* AMORPHOUS HUMMEL CROTON Hummel Croton* ... **... *
*URL:* http://www.hummelcroton.com/data/redp_d.html*United Mineral & Chemical Corporation*DistributorUnited StatesImporter & distributor of High Purity Metals; Organic, Cadmium, Daylight Fluorescent, Phosphorescent, Special Effect Pigments; Chemicals for Water treatment, Pool chemicals, Pyroferrics, & Epoxy resins. 
*URL:* http://www.umccorp.com in English [Translate]




*3.* *New Page 6**... *Arsenic ] [ Gallium ] [ Indium ] [ Intermetallic Compounds ] [ *Phosphorous* ] [ Magnesium ] [Tellurium] Rasa MBE Grade* ... *
*URL:* http://www.umccorp.com/redphosphorous.htm*Chemical Land21*DistributorSouth KoreaWorld Class Chemical and Plastic supplier. Products include Petrochemicals, Polymers, Intermediates, Organic Chemical, Inorganic Chemicals, Polymers, Fine Chemicals, Pharmaceutical, Plastic sheet and Films. 
*URL:* http://www.chemicalland21.com in English [Translate]




*4.* *PHOSPHOROUS ACID (PHOSPHONIC ACID)**... *changes into the *red* phosphorus. *Red* phosphorus, a dark*PHOSPHOROUS* ACID (PHOSPHONIC ACID) *PHOSPHOROUS** ... *
*URL:* http://www.chemicalland21.com/arokorhi/industrialchem/inorganic/PHOSPHOROUS...*QuimiNet*ServiceMexicoVirtual community for the Latin American Chemical Industry. Marketplace, directory of companies, job search, news. 
*URL:* http://www.quiminet.com in Spanish [Translate]




*5.* *YELLOW PHOSPHOROUS**... *Producto Contacto Clariant (México) Yellow *Phosphorous*, *Red* *Phosphorous* Blvd. Toluca # 46 Col.El* ... *D.F. Contactar DASTECH INTERNATIONAL INC. *Red* *... *
*URL:* http://www.quiminet.com/pr2/Yellow%2BPhosphorous.htm*A Dictionary of Units of Measurement*AcademiaUnited StatesRecommended by Yahoo! under Science: Measurement and Units. Listed as a resource by the Edinburgh Engineering Virtual Library and by DeskReference.com. 
*URL:* http://www.unc.edu/~rowlett/units/ in English [Translate]




*6.* *Microsoft PowerPoint - phosphorous.ppt [Compatibility Mode]**... *production of fine china - *Red* phosphorus used for matchbook* ... *
*URL:* http://www.unc.edu/depts/mtcgroup/litmeetings/phosphorous.pdf*Apsidium*ServiceGermanyThis homepage informs about an enlarged Periodic Table of the Elements. The data depends on the Freeware program " Orbital.exe" Version 1.9d for Windows 95/98/ME. You can download the packed program. 
*URL:* http://www.apsidium.com in English [Translate]




*7.* *Phosphorus 15**... *13 - Aluminium 14 - Silicon 15 - *Phosphorous* 16 - Sulfur 17 - Chlorine 18* ... *
*URL:* http://www.apsidium.com/elements/015.htm*Applications of Organic Chemistry*AcademiaUnited StatesAn illustration of the applications of organic chemistry to biochemistry in the body with relation to Vitamins (A, B6, B12, C) and Energy Reactions (glycolysis, CTA) 
*URL:* http://chemed.chem.purdue.edu/organic/orgapp/index.html in English [Translate]




*8.* *The Chemistry of Nitrogen and Phosphorous**... *of Nitrogen and *Phosphorous* The Chemistry of* ... *
*URL:* http://chemed.chem.purdue.edu/genchem/topicreview/bp/ch10/group5.php*New Metals and Chemicals*ManufacturerUnited KingdomA privately owned group of companies specialising in materials technology particularly in the aerospace, nuclear, mass transit and high temperature technical materials areas. 
*URL:* http://www.newmet.co.uk in English [Translate]




*9.* *Newmet Koch - Phosphorous**... *Boiling point 416ºC (sublimes) *red* *Red* phosphorus sublimes to gave* ... *Newmet Koch - *Phosphorous* > HOME > ABOUT US > PRODUCTS > NEWS* ... *
*URL:* http://www.newmet.co.uk/Products/koch/phosphorous.php*NEWTON BBS Ask a scientist*Org./Gov./AgencyUnited StatesNEWTON BBS has supported over 20 000+ questions since its inception in 1991. The archives of the Ask A Scientist question and answer postings between 1991 and 2005 can be found within this web site. 
*URL:* http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/ in English [Translate]




*10.* *Solar cells and Phosphorous vs Chlorophyll B**... *Solar cells and *Phosphorous* vs Chlorophyll B Ask A* ... *
*URL:* http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/newton/askasci/1993/chem/CHEM007.HTM


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## eza82 (Feb 25, 2009)

jESTER- YOU PROBABLY WANT *PHOSPHOROUS ACID (PHOSPHONIC ACID)**... *..


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## eza82 (Feb 25, 2009)

this guenius !!!! - NEED SOMEWHERE TO PUT IT !!!
https://www.omegagarden.com/index.php?content_id=175&product_id=1


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## Jester88 (Feb 25, 2009)

ummmm nah i just want phosphorous i can mix with some potasium and feed it to the plants during flower.


im thinking maybe just getting some tomato pellets and crushing it in a can and watering ma plants fuck it....

i really was hoping there was an easy way of getting phos as something like urea is for nitrogen ya know


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## eza82 (Feb 25, 2009)

eza82 said:


> jESTER- YOU PROBABLY WANT *PHOSPHOROUS ACID (PHOSPHONIC ACID)**... *..





Jester88 said:


> ummmm nah i just want phosphorous i can mix with some potasium and feed it to the plants during flower.
> 
> 
> im thinking maybe just getting some tomato pellets and crushing it in a can and watering ma plants fuck it....
> ...


This shit is cheap on line bro ! it is RED PHOS....... just the water soluable version................. the shit you will find in fertz will be a form of this..
Normal red phos will not break down !


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## spiked1 (Feb 28, 2009)

OK, I dosed my seedlings at 3 weeks and again at 4 weeks (27 days actually)
I have 10 White Queen seedlings which I'm using for this experiment.
I chose to dose them at the 3 and 4 week mark because I've read that this is the period in which they decide their sex.
I also plan on vegging for at least another 4 weeks, depending on their growth.


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## spiked1 (Feb 28, 2009)

Oops, forgot to mention I'm using La Femme at the manufacturers recommended dosage.
After getting 20 females from 21 with the Auto Flowering plants
I thought this would be worth a try.
I will also dose them 1 week before 12/12
and again the day I go 12/12.
Dosing at 5ml per litre foliar sprayed with penetrator
and watering at 2ml per litre.
Keep posted for more news.


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## DaveTheNewbie (Feb 28, 2009)

spiked1 said:


> Oops, forgot to mention I'm using La Femme at the manufacturers recommended dosage.
> After getting 20 females from 21 with the Auto Flowering plants
> I thought this would be worth a try.
> I will also dose them 1 week before 12/12
> ...


 
so you both spray and water with lafemme?
i thought you were supposed to do one or the other .
maybe thats the secret ??


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## born2killspam (Feb 28, 2009)

If you go hunting for phosphorous acid then you'll end up on a DEA watch list!. Where the hell can you get that stuff, or red phosphorus online?


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## Jester88 (Feb 28, 2009)

matchbook striker pads lol... get like a million i know there phosphorous leart that in school lol... 

i know its a watched thing. 

but i like being able to add nitrogen and potassium to my baby i juyst thought being able to give it phosporous would be good too. im trying to find a legal phosphorous that is effective and the plants find usefull....

dont worry we dont got the dea in australia its AFP (Australian Federal Police) but yes theyll come bust ya door down and put a cap in your ass if need be lol...

just as good i only grow the odd marijuana plant then and not make meth lol. 
yess i know what red phos is used for so does everyone else thats y im trying to find a viable* legal* option. i want to be able to make my own ratios for the plant like maybe ezas value of 

123 ie 5.10.15 during flower. ya know make a shitty fertilizers stats what i want them to be ie MG (ive found that you can grow dyno weed with a few alterations during veg and flower. ie. during veg maybe add some extra nitrigen to it or some fish fert concentrate then in start adding pot ash and less of the others 

some ferts just lack ya know and i wanna be able to add whats missing  meaning i want to be able to give the plant what its needs as needed anyways.

So its a dud idea then huh???? dammit i thought i was on to somethig lol oh well


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## spiked1 (Mar 1, 2009)

DaveTheNewbie said:


> so you both spray and water with lafemme?
> i thought you were supposed to do one or the other .
> maybe thats the secret ??


 I wasn't sure so decided to cover both ways.
It didn't do any harm.


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## DaveTheNewbie (Mar 1, 2009)

spiked1 said:


> I wasn't sure so decided to cover both ways.
> It didn't do any harm.


 
good enough for me


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## eza82 (Mar 1, 2009)

About to do direct experiment between two clones of same strain...
With PLANT STARTER... NAA. IBA are active ingredent.... so lafemme and rooting... it is liquid format and will start MONDAY -march 1st with two clones been in flower for 2 days.....


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## DaveTheNewbie (Mar 1, 2009)

eza82 said:


> About to do direct experiment between two clones of same strain...
> With PLANT STARTER... NAA. IBA are active ingredent.... so lafemme and rooting... it is liquid format and will start MONDAY -march 1st with two clones been in flower for 2 days.....


 
i wanna see this one !


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## eza82 (Mar 2, 2009)

tHIS IS COST SAVEING EXERCISE!
lAFEMME = $20 =200ML
PLANT STARTER= $5 FOR 1 LITER


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## eza82 (Mar 2, 2009)

Originally Posted by *tapla* 
_From forums.Gardenweb.com_
_Not all are much enamored of Superthrive, and it DOES contain ingredients that WILL hurt your plants if overused. It contains synthetic auxin, the same growth regulator that was used in defoliants in Viet Nam. This question arises soo often, that I saved a synopsis of an experiment I've repeated 4 times, with some loose controls in place. You may, or may not find it interesting, but I am pretty settled with my conclusion(s). _
_Superthrive or Super-Jive _
_The question of the value of Superthrive as a miracle tonic for plants is often bandied about in horticultural circles. Several years ago, after reading claims that range from "I put it on and my plant, which had never bloomed, was in full bloom the next day" to "It was dead - I put Superthrive on it and the next day it was alive and beautiful, growing better than it ever had before", I decided to find out for myself. If you look for information on the net, you&#8217;ll find the manufacturer&#8217;s claims and anecdotal observations, totally lacking in anything that resembles anything like a control. Though my experiments were far from scientific, I tried to keep some loose controls in place so that I could make a fair judgment of its value, based my own observations. Here is what I did, what I found, and the conclusions I made about my use of Superthrive. _
_On four separate occasions, I took multiple cuttings from the same plant. The plant materials I used were: Ficus benjamina, (a tropical weeping fig) Luna apiculata (Peruvian myrtle), Chaenorrhinum minus (a dwarf snapdragon), and an unknown variety of Coleus. In each instance, I prepared cuttings from the same plant and inserted them in a very fast, sterile soil. Half of the cuttings were soaked in a Superthrive solution of approximately 1/2 tsp per gallon of water. The other half of the cuttings were watered in with water. In subsequent waterings, I would water the "Superthrive batch" of cuttings with a solution of 10 drops per gallon and the others with water. The same fertilizer regimen was followed on both groups of cuttings. In all four instances, the cuttings that I used Superthrive on rooted first. For this reason, it follows that they would naturally exhibit better development, though I could see no difference in vitality, once rooted. I can also say that a slightly higher percentage f cuttings rooted that were treated to the Superthrive treatment. I suspect that is directly related to the effects of the auxin in Superthrive hastening root initiation before potential vascular connections were destroyed by rot causing organisms. _
_In particular, something I looked for because of my affinity for compact branching in plants was branch (stem) extension. Though the cuttings treated with Superthrive rooted sooner, they exhibited the same amount of branch extension. In other words, internode length was approximately equal. _
_As a second part to each of my "experiments", I divided the group of cuttings that had not been treated with Superthrive into two groups. One of the groups remained on the water only program, while the other group was treated to a 10 drop per gallon solution of Superthrive. Again, the fertilizer regimen was the same for both groups. By summer&#8217;s end, I could detect no difference in bio-mass or vitality between the two groups of plants. _
_Since I replicated the above in four different trials, using four different plant materials, I&#8217;m confident in drawing some conclusions as they apply to me and my growing habits or abilities. First, based on my observations, I have concluded that Superthrive holds value for me as a rooting aid, or stimulant if you prefer. I regularly soak the soil, usually overnight, of my newly root-pruned and usually bare-rooted repots in a solution of 1/2 tsp Superthrive per gallon of water. Second, and also based on my observations, I don&#8217;t bother with its use at any time other than at repotting. No evidence was accumulated through the 4 trials to convince me that Superthrive was of any value as a "tonic" for plants with roots that were beyond the initiation or recovery stage. _
_The first ingredient listed as beneficial on the Superthrive label is vitamin B-1 (or thiamine). Growing plants are able to synthesize their own vitamin B-1 as do many of the fungi and bacteria having relationships with plant roots, so it's extremely doubtful that vitamin B-1 could be deficient in soils or that a growing plant could exhibit a vitamin B-1 deficiency. _
_Some will note that I used more of the product than suggested on the container. I wanted to see if any unwanted effects surfaced as well as trying to be sure there was ample opportunity for clear delineation between the groups. I suspect that if a more dilute solution was used, the difference between groups would have been less clear. _
_It might be worth noting that since the product contains the growth regulator (hormone) auxin, its overuse can cause defoliation, at least in dicots. The broad-leaf weed killer Weed-B-Gone and the infamous Agent Orange, a defoliant that saw widespread use in Viet Nam, are little more than synthetic auxin. _
_Al F._

Originally Posted by *George Buehler* 
_from www.louisvillebonsai.org_

_There has been a flurry of activity on the ABSForum regarding the use of SuperThrive. The original question that was posted was whether the stuff really worked and if other root stimulator products were just as good. _
_One response was that every time she transplanted a bonsai, she soaked the roots in a SuperThrive solution for 20 minutes prior to putting it in a pot. Of course she believes it is the best thing since sliced bread. _
_Another response was that plants do not need vitamins however manufacture their own vitamins. Therefore how could the SuperThrive help the tree? This respondent said that he switched to a material called Roots 2 and found that this material worked very well. _
_A number of respondents reported that they had used SuperThrive in the past but gave up using it. Their conclusion was that they didn't see any benefit. _
_It appears that* SuperThrive consists of Thiamine (aka Vitamin B1) 0.09% and 1-napthyl acetic acid (0.048%). *Thiamine was promoted as a root stimulant in a Botanical gazette in the 1930's. The research report could not be repeated by other researchers, and the original authors retracted their reports since they could not repeat the results either. The 1-naphtyl acetic acid is a synthetic auxin (a plant hormone). Whether it works or not is questionable. _
_Other respondents said they replaced the SuperThrive with other materials like MicroMax, Sequestrine or Roots 2, and they got better results. _
_The directions on SuperThrive say that it is to be used with fertilizers. Could perhaps the combination of SuperThrive and fertilizer cause it to work? _
_I know from personal contact that the Montreal bonsai arboretum did use SuperThrive but abandoned its use a number of years ago because they could not see any positive effects with its use. They replaced the SuperThrive with MicroMax after they did a short study on that. _
_Apparently this controversy has been going on for years. I know several of our members use it regularly, and at least one swears by it. I also know it is extremely difficult to substantiate whether a particular chemical or process works or doesn't work especially since we are limited by the number of specimens we have. Also all research (or at least all of the research I have read) has been done on plants/trees in a greenhouse or field environment, not the bonsai environment (rock soil, small pots, constant trimming, and repeated root pruning). Therefore, my questions to the membership: _
_Who uses it? Do you use it in combination with other chemicals? Have you tried eliminating it or substituting it for other materials? How many trees did you do your experiment on? Please let me know. I will report the results back in a future report._


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## eza82 (Mar 2, 2009)

My post from different thread ! - here for refference.

I use a basic mushroom compost; wheat straw, horse & chicken manure and gypsum (calcium sulfate) with hydrated lime, pot ash. organic soil, wormcastings, mixed with coco fiber.... 
There are a variety of optional ingredients that may be added. A brief outline of some materials used in making composts follows: 
*Straw:*
serves as a carbon source (carbohydrate) source wheat - considered the best - contains xylan oat, barley - break down more rapidly than wheat rye - breaks down slower than wheat also corn cobs, oak and beech leaves, etc. 
*Other Carbohydrate Sources:* 
Rice straw, molasses, brewer's grains, cottonseed meal (provides the fatty acid - linoleic acid -which is reported to stimulate yields.) 
*Manures:*
nitrogen source, provides organisms essential to composting horse - most commonly used, fresher the better poultry - higher in nitrogen and phosphorous than horse, not so rich in potash (provided in wheat straw), faster and hotter than horse, use dry pig and sheep - must be used before they become sticky - used partly dry 
*Other Nitrogen Sources:*
Blood meal (dried blood), bone meal urea, ammonium sulfate ((NH4)2SO4) Gypsum: calcium sulfate (CaSO4) - helps to prevent the loss of nitrogen (from the breakdown of proteins during the act of composting) by chelating the ammonia 
*Optional Mineral Sources:*
_*Superphosphate;*_ is said to promote vigorous flowering growth, but an excess may make the beds too acid too soon which depreciate the crop. It should not be used if there are a lot of droppings that r fresh) in the compost. 
_*potash;*_ used in synthetic composts.
_*Activators;*_ compost "activators" can be obtained from nursery and garden stores and assures the presence of the organism essential to composting.
The following recipes create about one half ton of compost. One half ton of compost will provide enough compost for about 60 square feet of beds (surface area). At least one quart of grain spawn per 15 square feet of bed surface should be used. 
*Sample MY Compost Recipes:*
*I do this in winter every year then additives are introduced to pile.*
*I have not got one at moment ....(had to move house) But have strated a new pile this week!*

5 bales wheat straw, 
half a pickup (half ton) horse manure, 
1/2 tonne mushroom compost (used )
30 lbs. gypsum, 
4 lbs. activator, 
90 lbs. chicken manure, 
40 lbs. Blood & bone meal 

This is what I do to prep!
To prepare compost, the straw must be soaked for several days until it just about, but not quite, squeezes water out in your hands. The compost pile is then built by stacking alternating layers of straw, activator, manure and gypsum until all the materials are used up. The stack should be 4-6 feet high. 
In about 48 hours the heap will begin to generate heat and will sink somewhat in height. By the fourth to sixth day the temperature in the interior of the pile should reach 160°F (71°C). Temperatures of up to 160°F are due to thermophilic organisms. Temperatures over 170°F are due to chemical bonds being broken as well as other chemical reactions. Temperatures over 160°F are undesirable.


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## eza82 (Mar 3, 2009)

this is something i have just started to experiment with ! ​ 

*Rhizobium*​ 
*inoculate seed before planting? *​ 
*inoculated with the proper Rhizobium bacteria. (black chalky looking shit )*​ 
*Inoculation is easy and inexpensive and provides good assurance that plants will fix nitrogen.* *EXPLANATION:* 
IE:seeds can be inoculated with live rhizobium bacteria (_Rhizobium meliloti)_, . The only time producers do not need to inoculate is when planting preinoculated seed before its expiration date. 
In some fields with recent histories of alfalfa or sweetclover, alfalfa may not benefit from inoculation, but it is difficult to identify those fields before planting. After emergence, inoculation is risky, difficult, and expensive.​ 
Many strains of rhizobia are present in soil, and some may form nodules on alfalfa roots, but not all nodules fix nitrogen. Effective N-fixing nodules on alfalfa are generally pink to deep red on the inside and can fix several hundred pounds of nitrogen per acre each season. 
Specific rhizobium bacteria for alfalfa assure effective nitrogen fixation by new stands. Together they convert atmospheric nitrogen into a form available to plants if effective nodules are present. Nodules are the result of an infection by an effective strain of bacteria (_Rhizobium meliloti_). 
*Inoculating alfalfa seed:* Inoculation is nothing more than mixing bacteria with the seed before planting. Dry inoculant can be mixed with seed, but it is difficult to assure good mixing and to avoid much of the inoculant from falling on the ground some distance from the seed. Certain brands of alfalfa seed are pre-inoculated (with or without lime coating) and do not need additional inoculant. 
Stickers help nodule forming bacteria adhere to seed. Excellent commercial preparations of stickers and rhizobium are available from inoculant manufacturers. For best results, follow the manufacturer's instructions. 
An alternative to commercial stickers is to use milk or a water-based solution containing 10 to 20 % table syrup or sugar. One pint of the sticky mixture provides sufficient sticker for a bushel of seed. Moisten all seeds (in a concrete mixer, if possible), then add the inoculant. If the mixture is too moist, add more inoculant, finely ground limestone, or powdery dry soil. 
*Shelf life of inoculants: *Expiration dates appear on inoculant packets and pre-inoculated seed bags. The date indicates when most of the bacteria will have died under normal storage conditions. Properly inoculated seeds have thousands of bacteria per seed; however, only one bacterium is needed to infest a seedling's root. Bacteria on seed in hot soil die, a few at a time. Nevertheless, even after 2 or 3 weeks, there are usually enough live bacteria remaining to be effective. 
Heat, direct sunlight, and drying are all detrimental to the survival of rhizobia. For this reason, it is important to store inoculant packets in a cool place (refrigerate if possible). Even with the large amounts of rhizobia initially applied, many bacteria may die during prolonged storage. 
If there are questions about the viability of bacteria on inoculated seed due to the length of storage or storage conditions, then seed should be reinoculated. Do not use water to moisten lime-coated seed. Fresh inoculant can be applied with *mineral oil* as a sticker. About 1/2 ounce of mineral oil per pound of seed is sufficient. 
*Cost/benefit of inoculation:* Inoculant is normally included with the higher priced seed. Cost for preinoculated seed is 5 to 10¢/lb more than comparable raw seed. Inoculant costs about $1/A, if applied by the producer. 
All legumes (including alfalfa) can establish and survive without nitrogen-fixing bacteria, but plants cannot fix nitrogen. This means that without added nitrogen, plants will have a yellowish appearance and yields will be low. With high rates of nitrogen fertilizer application, uninoculated stands can be productive. 
If nitrogen fertilizer is applied to alfalfa for normal growth and quality, 200 - 400 lb. actual N/A would be required, costing $50 - $200/A. Since inoculation is easy and cheap, it is probably the best insurance farmers can buy.​ 
*can i use it at any time ?? *
there is at least one commercial bacterial preparation that can be mixed with water and sprayed on plants to improve inoculation with rhizobia. 
During dry or cold (below 500 F) soil conditions, rhizobia may not grow and multiply normally. Slow growth of rhizobia is also caused by acid or infertile soil. If fertilizer and lime were not applied according to soil tests, the materials should be applied as soon as possible and may alleviate the problem with poor inoculation. 
The cost and effectiveness of inoculation after planting is highly variable because of the array of conditions that can cause poor inoculation. Rhizobia must come in contact with root hairs before they dry out or they will not be effective; consequently, weather conditions are critical for this application.​ 

http://alfalfa.okstate.edu/pub/stand-949/seed.htm



I recieved a PACK OF THIS STUFF with an order of RED CLOVER im also experimenting with for phytoestrogens......... So i will use it on a few seeds ive got !


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## eza82 (Mar 3, 2009)

here are some current recommendations made to me by some pro`s in hort industry: 

*




*

*LIQUID LEAD*

Grow Hard's Liquid Lead contains a special formula precisely designed for the heaviest harvest. A unique blend of organic enzyme activators, vitamins, essential animo acids and carbohydrates that will unleash the full flowering potential of your favourite plants or herbs.
Liquid Lead optimises harvest weight, promotes vigorous growth, enhances flavour and taste and increases health of flowering plants in your hydroponic system. 


*PRO-PK PROFESSIONAL POTASH*

*Superior Weight Booster*  
When you initiate flowering there is a massive surge in the plants requirement for potassium. Lowered potassium levels will simply slow down a plants growth rate to match the available potassium. More available potassium equals more flowers. Supplement your nutrient solution with PROFESSIONAL POTASH for increased potassium levels and maximum finished weight. Why dont nutrient manufacturers add all of this extra potassium in their nutrient mix? They cant for two reasons. The most important is that everybodys system is different. Nutrients are made to cope with a wide range of conditions and could easily become out of balance. Problems could occur because hydroponic systems are managed by electrical conductivity rather than chemical analysis. Adding the extra potassium is really fine tuning. The second problem is a chemical one. Concentrated nutrients start to behave differently as the concentration increases and can start to salt out, creating insoluble compounds that cant be used by the plant. We recommend PROFESSIONAL POTASH as an addition to your flowering nutrient for record breaking yields. Feel the weight of a bottle of PROFESSIONAL POTASH compared to our competitors, we put more in so that you get more out of your crop. Add PROFESSIONAL POTASH to fresh water at required rate first, then add your flowering nutrient and other additives. Pure elements in ultra pure water.

http://www.way2grow.com.au/

​


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## DaveTheNewbie (Mar 3, 2009)

everyone here knows about P-K, and potash.
i think every single one of us adds some sort of potash in flowering, i know i do
whats so special about liquid lead vs any of 100 other products? eg brix+, superbud, monsta bud, headmasta, etc

we want the details man !


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## eza82 (Mar 3, 2009)

DaveTheNewbie said:


> everyone here knows about P-K, and potash.
> i think every single one of us adds some sort of potash in flowering, i know i do
> whats so special about liquid lead vs any of 100 other products? eg brix+, superbud, monsta bud, headmasta, etc
> 
> we want the details man !


that PK POTASH is new to market... made by Grow hard... agri product.... dont know any one usesing it except this guy ! .... Pottasium sulphate / phosphours sulphate mix i think..... 

Liquid Lead:Again aussie prodcut, CHEAP in comparision....... Will bring basic enzyems and carbs... add wieght ! He said he only uses canna A&B plus PK 13-14 (now + PK potash) Liquid lead for flower... and his results are amazing...
Out doors he also uses RICHLEA BLOOM instead of canna- again cheap !

He is growing weed and runs feilds of TURF, and VEGGY ;corn,broc,tomatoe,beets,many more) Million dollar business !
He has just started useing the PK POTASH...swears by it For both HYDRO and out doors.... I was intrested because I dont use potash indoors..... this I will.


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## eza82 (Mar 4, 2009)

*CYCOCEL® 77A (essentially ROCK FLOWER JUICE)*​ 
Considering buying that ! will save about $100 a liter ! for my rock juice which is around $150 a liter !
DESCRIPTION:
*Crop Care CYCOCEL® 77A*

*Plant Growth Regulant*​*ACTIVE CONSTITUENT: 77 g/L CHLORMEQUAT*
*present as CHLORMEQUAT CHLORIDE*
*Specifications: *
*Guaiacol *​*5-nitroguaiacol *
*Compound Sodium nitrophenolate *
*Sodium 5-nitroguaiacolate *
*Sodium para-nitrophenolate *
*DA-6 *
*Sodium a-naphthaleneacitic acid *
*Sodium 2,4-dinitrophenolate *
*3'5'-Sodium nucleic acid *
*Compound potassium nitrophenolate *
*3-indolebutyric acid(IBA) *
*Laurocapram *
*Thiazone *
*Cyhalothrin-lambda(Cyhalothrin)*

CYCOCEL 77A is a growth regulator which promotes flower formation and increases the berry set and yield of wine grapes and increase setting of currants.

*Recommended Uses* To increase the berry set and yield of wine grapes and increase setting of currants
.*Advantages* Increases the number of berries per bunch. Improves skin to total fruit ratio.
*Benefits* Improved colour of red wines. Increases yield.
*Mode of Action* CYCOCEL 77A is a growth regulator which inhibits cell elongation, hence shorthening and strengthening the stem and producing a sturdier plant. Also, influences the developmental cycle, leding to increased flowering and harvest.
*Chemical Group* PGR
*General Instructions**Mixing *
Thoroughly mix the product with hard or soft water at the rates shown, then add wetter.
The product should be applied only to vigorous vines growing under good conditions and capable of carrying an increased crop.
This applies particularly to Muscat Gordo Blanco. As many factors affect yield of grapes, the use of CYCOCEL 77A may not always result in increased fruit production.

*Compatibility *
Do NOT mix the product with other chemicals except nonionic wetter, unless compatibility has been tested.

*Company Details*CROP CARE
Unit 15/16 Metroplex Avenue
Murarrie QLD 4172
_Tel : _07 3909 2000
_Fax : _07 3909 2010
_Web : _www.cropcare.com.au


*INT trade site- with raw PGR`s* 
*http://www.tradeindia.com/selloffer/...-chloride.html*


*Look at this research LONG read...but very formal !* 

*http://www.icar.org.in/icar2001.pdf*​ 


*Others im looking at.*​ 
Viggi Agro Products



*Black Thunder* - Potassium Humate for indoor!
*Description/Specification* Black thunder is a potassium humate which is 100% soluble in water and is in a powder form. 
It is obtainable in a concentration of 70%humic acid , 15%fulvic acid and 15% organic soluble potassium. 
It can be used in landscapes and gardens as well as for agriculture and horticulture purposes.​ 
*The various advantages of potassium humate are:*​ 
* It stimulates the growth of the plant and improves the structure of the soil. 
* It enhances the growth of the plant and soil fertility as it acts effectively on both the plant and soil. 
* Black thunder can be easily stored and transported. 
* It is easily soluble in water. 
* It can also be applied with other chemical fertilizers or pesticides. 
* It increases the nutrient values of the plant.



 
Viggi Agro Products​ 
*Bio Thunder (outdoor)*
*Description/Specification* Bio Thunder is made up of mixture of plant extracts which are obtained from naturally occurring enzymes, vitamins, trace elements and amino acids of the plant origin. For the growth and development of the plant humate is a natural plant growth promoter which can be easily absorbed by the plant. It enhances the activity of the naturally available enzymes and hormones in the plant and thus fulfills the nutritional demand and accelerates the metabolic process of the plants. This active process helps in the formation of food materials like carbohydrates proteins etc. it promotes cell division which helps in the growth of the plant. Some of the prominent characteristics of Humate are:​ 
* Due to better stimulating phenomena it increase the yield 
* It improves the color, shape, luster and taste of the fruit as it enhances the nutritional uptake and utilization. 
* After the harvesting is done it improves the quality of the flower and the fruit. 
* It helps in the growth and development of the roots by absorbing the nutrients from the soil. 
* It increases the photosynthetic activity of the plant thus results in the growth of new green and lustrous leaves. 
* It improves the resistivity and helps the growth of the plant even in adverse conditions.



 

These are cheap ..............http://www.tradeindia.com/fp82279/Bio-Thunder.html​ 
Here is a full list of different raw materials and cheap humantes and mixtures !​ 
http://www.tradeindia.com/manufactur...regulator.html​


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## jberry (Jan 25, 2010)

interesting stuff, im in! subscribed...


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## eza82 (Jan 25, 2010)

Thanx Jberry, I also see that you too are a canna/coco grower.

Welcome


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## jberry (Jan 26, 2010)

Yea thanks man.

There's a company called Reforestation Technologies International and it has some products worth looking at, and a lot of their products are being used in the Giant Vegetable Growing community by people who are breaking new world records for heaviest vegetables. They arent PGR's but some of their products do influence different Plant/Soil Hormones.

and now RTI is releasing a new biological product to revolutionize the sport of extreme gardening: _*Azos*_, which contains _Azospirillum brasilense_, an organism many times smaller than the microscopic mycorrhizae.

*How does Azos work?*

Nitrogen is an essential ingredient for fast-growing, healthy plants. 
The good news? This element makes up nearly 80% of the Earth&#8217;s atmosphere! 
The bad news? Plants can&#8217;t absorb nitrogen from the air. 
To give plants nitrogen, gardeners typically rely on chemical fertilizers. Unfortunately, over-fertilization of a vital nutrient can be as damaging as lacking nutrients. Fertilizer burn occurs when a plant receives too many nutrients, resulting in dry, dysfunctional roots and damage or even death of the plant. 

Of course, nature has already found a solution to this problem in the form of a beneficial microbe called _Azospirillum brasilense_. This little organism lives with your plants, and supplies nitrogen as needed. In addition to fixing nitrogen in the CORRECT amounts, Azospirillum releases a PLANT GROWTH HORMONE called IAA (indole-three-acetic acid) that increases lateral root growth and root hairs. This increased root surface area allows the plant to control it&#8217;s nutrient intake, absorbing just what it needs at the right time. Additionally, _Azospirillum_ works with mycorrhizae to maximize a plant&#8217;s potential, maintaining plant health despite the presence of natural events such as soil pathogens, drought, shock, stress, and infestations. 


Until recently, there was no American provider of _Azospirillum_. Now *Azos*, is available exclusively through RTI. 



The benefit of _Azospirillum_ to natural ecosystems has been heavily researched, but the use of this natural solution by competitive growers is just beginning. Research using this microbe to enhance plant growth have revealed 5-20% yield increases despite substantially decreasing fertilizer. 


Now this cutting-edge natural technology is ready to help the competitive growers of North America set new records with their amazing results. Whether you are trying to set a new world record with your gardening or just seeking your next personal best, this beneficial microbe will help you achieve the results you want.
Sunday, July 12th, 2009


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## eza82 (Jan 26, 2010)

That's a very interesting article ! Sounds interesting IAA, is readily available here and something I included in 40 % of my feedings in way of a liquid feed that contains: IAA and NAA @78% active. During entire life cycle indoors. The dose each time is tiny. (5ML to 80 Litres of water) but done as an additive to feed schedule. 
SO im really interested in this Azos. Anything I can do more organic or naturally the better.

:as he skips off to google it:


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## jberry (Jan 26, 2010)

here is the link to their website: http://www.reforest.com/

the website has a ton of helpful information in general, not just about their products, but it can be a little tricky to find because the way the site is layed out.

check out Pumpkin Pro as well.


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## jberry (Jan 28, 2010)

I promise not to keep jacking your thread but here is something interesting involving Hormones....

According to Penn State&#8217;s Horticulture expert Rich Marini, the vibrations from music and speech might actually stimulate plant growth. 


Wind also creates similar vibrations. When plants are regularly affected by wind (fan), a Hormone called Ethylene is released. This hormone creates thicker, stronger stems and might be the same hormone released when plants are played music. 

However, too much of this hormone can stunt plant growth, which might be why music played for more than four hours a day can make plants sickly.


Check out these threads if you want to learn more about how crazy plants are... 

https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-marijuana-cultivation/294405-influence-music-plants.html

https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-marijuana-cultivation/222916-how-plants-communicate.html


-Peace, -J


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## eza82 (Jan 28, 2010)

Not at alll, please keep giving what you find. This is becoming a great resource.


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## jberry (Jan 28, 2010)

Right on thanks. 

Im totally interested in the obscure information even though many times its not always applicable and more research is needed... i just like it when people are able to at least THINK out of the box... i like to be at the front of the innovative curve even if i dont act out everything i read, its still very interesting to me.

Im sure i'll be lurking around with me tidbits of info...

There is also some info on how Colors can effect plant Hormones in this thread: https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-marijuana-cultivation/294339-influence-colors-plants.html 

-Peace, ~J


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## jberry (Feb 22, 2010)

ScienceDaily (Aug. 13, 2008 &#8212; Scientists from the Wageningen University Laboratory of Plant Physiology and an international team of scientists have discovered a new group of plant hormones, the so-called strigolactones. This group of chemicals is known to be involved in the interaction between plants and their environment.

The scientists have now proven that strigolactones, as hormones, are also crucial for the branching of plants. The discovery will soon be published in Nature and is of great importance for innovations in agriculture. Examples include the development of cut flowers or tomato plants with more or fewer branches. These crops are of major economic and social importance worldwide.
The growth and development of plants is largely controlled by plant hormones. Plants produce these chemicals themselves, thus controlling the growth and development of roots and stems, for example. A number of plant hormones, such as auxins, giberellins and cytokinins, were discovered by scientists decades ago. Now a new group of hormones has been found: The so-called strigolactones.
Previous research by institutes including Wageningen UR has shown that strigolactones plays a major part in the interaction between plants and their environment. As plants cannot move, they commonly use their own chemicals to control the environment as best as they can.
Strigolactones are of major importance to the interaction between plants and symbiotic fungi, for example. These fungi live in a symbiotic relationship with plants, lthat is mutually beneficial. They transport minerals from the soil to the plant, while the plant gives the fungi sugars &#8216;in return&#8217;.
Unfortunately, the strigolactones have also been &#8220;hijacked&#8221; by harmful organisms: They help seeds of parasitic plants to germinate when plant roots are in the vicinity. The seedlings of the parasite attach to the root of the plant and use the plant&#8217;s nutrients for their own growth and reproduction. Unlike the symbiotic fungi, however, they do not give anything in return. On the contrary, the parasitism often causes the host plant to die, eventually.
The international research team consisting of French, Australian and Dutch scientists, coordinated in France, found mutants of pea that were branching without restraint. It turned out that these pea plants were not capable of producing strigolactones. When the plants were administered strigolactones, the unrestrained branching stopped. The same effect occurred in an entirely different plant, thale cress. The mutant plants also caused a significant lower germination of the parasitic plant seeds and induced less interaction with symbiotic fungi.
The scientists also showed that a specific &#8216;receptor reaction&#8217; for the strigolactones occurs in plants, a phenomenon that is characteristic for plant hormones. Although some previously discovered plants with unrestrained branching turned out to be producing strigolactones themselves, their receptor connection was disturbed: Strigolactones administered from the outside could not stop the uncontrolled branching.
It has also been shown that the plants are capable of transporting strigolactones internally and that the chemicals work at very low concentrations, two other typical characteristics of plant hormones.
It is expected that this new knowledge will be applied in agriculture and horticulture, for example in breeding and the development of branching regulators.
Cut flower varieties and potted plants with either more or less branching may have special ornamental value, while crops with more or less branching may be beneficial in cultivation. Tomato plants in which less branching occurs can benefit the greenhouse horticulture, for instance.


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## jberry (Feb 22, 2010)

*Learn about Oligosaccharide here: http://www.gak.co.jp/FCCA/glycoword/SA-A00/SA-A00_E.html

Rhizotonic is the only nute i have found that confirms using Oligosaccharide but im sure you could find it elsewhere if you have the knowledge of how to use it correctly.

I asked H&G if it was in roots exelerator and they said "Im not sure, we would have to ask the guys in the lab and that isnt possible" lol...

im not knocking or promoting either product... both are overpriced and both work really well.
*


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## eza82 (Feb 22, 2010)

luv your work Jberry !


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## jberry (Mar 4, 2010)

*Here is a another article from **Dec. 2009* * Maximum Yield about *Azos*/*_Azospirillum_ : http://www.maximumyield.com/article_sh_db.php?articleID=516&yearVar=2009&issueVar=December

sounds somewhat promising!




jberry said:


> Yea thanks man.
> 
> There's a company called Reforestation Technologies International and it has some products worth looking at, and a lot of their products are being used in the Giant Vegetable Growing community by people who are breaking new world records for heaviest vegetables. They arent PGR's but some of their products do influence different Plant/Soil Hormones.
> 
> ...


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## jberry (Mar 16, 2010)

*Beneficial Bacterias for Hydroponic Tomatoes:*

*Abstract:* 

Twenty-eight microorganisms showing in vitro antagonistic activity against _Pythium ultimum_ were tested for their ability to reduce root rot [_P. ultimum_] on mature tomato plants grown in a greenhouse under hydroponic conditions. 


Of those, _Penicillium brevicompactum_, _Penicillium solitum_ strain 1, _Pseudomonas fluorescens_ subgroup G strain 2, _Pseudomonas marginalis_, _Pseudomonas putida_ subgroup B strain 1, _Pseudomonas syringae_ strain 1, and _Trichoderma atroviride_ were shown to strongly reduce root rot severity, to improve the anchorage, and to increase the marketable yields of the plants grown in Rockwool infested with _P. ultimum_. 

Experiments conducted in an organic medium containing peat, pine sawdust, and compost (_v/v/v_; 60:30:10) also revealed the capability of most of these microorganisms to reduce root rot severity and to improve the anchorage of the tomato plants. 


However, *Pseudomonas marginalis *was the only microorganism that *significantly improved fruit production* of infected plants grown in organic medium... 


Moreover, _Penicillium brevicompactum_, _Penicillium solitum_ strain 1, _Pseudomonas fluorescens_ subgroup G strain 2, _Pseudomonas marginalis_, _Pseudomonas putida_ subgroup B strain 1, and _T. atroviride_ were shown to stimulate the growth of healthy tomato seedlings, suggesting that they act as* PGPR (plant-growth-promoting rhizobacteria) or PGPF (plant-growth-promoting fungi)*. 

This study led to the selection of potential biocontrol agents against root rot of tomato caused by _P. ultimum_ in hydroponic systems. This may open the way for new alternatives for the biological control of _Pythium_ diseases in hydroponic systems that *not only protect the crop but also have a beneficial effect on the plant growth* and development in the absence of pathogens.


*Publisher:* Canadian Phytopathological Society

*Title:* Control of greenhouse tomato root rot (_Pythium ultimum_) in hydroponic systems, using plant-growth-promoting microorganisms.
*
Personal Authors:* Gravel, V., Martinez, C., Antoun, H., Tweddell, R. J.
Author Affiliation: Centre de recherche en horticulture, Université Laval, Québec, QC G1K 7P4, Canada.
*Document Title:* Canadian Journal of Plant Pathology

About CAB Abstracts 
CAB Abstracts is a unique and informative resource covering everything from Agriculture to Entomology to Public Health. In April 2006 we published our 5 millionth abstract, making it the largest and most comprehensive abstracts database in its field.


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## TheMystyk (Jan 11, 2011)

I found some interesting things on UvB since the subject was brought up. I've been doing alot of research on this field and I have found these to links to be of value.

http://www.greenmanspage.com/guides/thc.html

http://www.cannabase.com/cl/bcga/bcga/uv.htm

I'm still doing research on this field so if I come up with more I'll post it.


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## grinkeeper (Apr 4, 2011)

such an incredible resource, great job everyone, super happy I found it but damn it if my eyes arent sore as hell know..


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## Silicity (Dec 6, 2012)

thread needs to be revived, to much useful information to be left gathering dust.


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## Ammar ali (Jan 17, 2018)

Hi! i need help! my plant were on recovery after a transplant shock, they were getting better, i gave them BAYER Planofix (contains NAA), the next day i saw all were wilting & drooping like they are overwatered, but in actuall they are not overwatered. I am so much worried, this is my first grow ever  they are 16 plants.
Medium = Coco coir
Temp = 24-27 C
RH = 40-50%
PH = 6-6.2 maintained


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## nachooo (Jan 17, 2018)

Ammar ali said:


> Hi! i need help! my plant were on recovery after a transplant shock, they were getting better, i gave them BAYER Planofix (contains NAA), the next day i saw all were wilting & drooping like they are overwatered, but in actuall they are not overwatered. I am so much worried, this is my first grow ever  they are 16 plants.
> Medium = Coco coir
> Temp = 24-27 C
> RH = 40-50%
> PH = 6-6.2 maintained


Raise humidity until about 60-65%, Drop Ph to 5.6-5.8


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## Ammar ali (Jan 17, 2018)

nachooo said:


> Raise humidity until about 60-65%, Drop Ph to 5.6-5.8


Thanks, but i kept my plants in low light, i think low light and low air movement help them to heal themselves


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## nachooo (Jan 17, 2018)

Ammar ali said:


> Thanks, but i kept my plants in low light, i think low light and low air movement help them to heal themselves


Yes , low light helps to recover, but you are using wrong ph level, and your humidity when your temps are at 27% is too low. You wont fix anything until you fix mainly the ph issue


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## nachooo (Jan 17, 2018)

Most failures I use to see around my vicinity growers happen when a situation occurs in their gardens..and they say: I saw that simptom and I THINK that I should do that...
You must not think...you must KNOW...learn ph basics, and relathionship between temps and humidity (Vapor pressure déficit). I wish 30 years ago someone would have explained me these simple things...That would have save me some many problems...and lot of time and money. Anyway..good luck...


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