# Anyone with vast knowledge of powder mildew please?



## Yesyes3000 (Feb 5, 2020)

Hello everyone. I’m posting here in hopes of acquiring the attention and knowledge of an advanced grower with experience with PM (powder mildew) 
Is it something that can’t be gotten rid of ? Is eagle20 get rid of it ? Or do all the remedy’s people share just keep it from flaring up ? I’ve read of people who have had pm and then gotten rid of it. My friend is having some problems with it and has done all the obvious changes to help his situation. Anyhow if people could just share how they got rid of it that would be awesome. Thank you for your time !!

grateful 3000


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## randallb (Feb 5, 2020)

Depends how bad it has gotten. PM sucks! You've probably read this but here's what I do. I'm not growing in mass quantities.

1 teaspoon vinegar to 1 gallon water. Mix and spray the crap out of everything. Repeat 2 days later. Then 2 days later spay neem oil. I try and not spray the neem oil into the buds, then again in 3 days. If some get on, I'm going to wash the buds at harvest anyway. 
Meanwhile, pluck the really bad leaves throughout this process and toss. Plants will be looking much better. Then I maintain with the neem spray.


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## FastFreddi (Feb 5, 2020)

Vinegar lowers ph...pm loves acidic conditions. Try using a high ph 8+ with added h2o2 if in flower...be mindful of budrot. Protect the medium from heavy runoff...don't want to hurt the herd( if in soil).
Good luck
FF


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## rob333 (Feb 5, 2020)

Yesyes3000 said:


> Hello everyone. I’m posting here in hopes of acquiring the attention and knowledge of an advanced grower with experience with PM (powder mildew)
> Is it something that can’t be gotten rid of ? Is eagle20 get rid of it ? Or do all the remedy’s people share just keep it from flaring up ? I’ve read of people who have had pm and then gotten rid of it. My friend is having some problems with it and has done all the obvious changes to help his situation. Anyhow if people could just share how they got rid of it that would be awesome. Thank you for your time !!
> 
> grateful 3000


burn it burn it all to the ground works everytime trust me


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## TessaMaria (Feb 5, 2020)

I use Actinovate. It works well during an outbreak, I triple the dose and then spray weekly. I found this to work the best for me. I’ve use milk sprays and hydrogen peroxide sprays too. 

Another preventative that works well is Neem oil and Monterey Disease Control. 

I also wash my harvested buds before drying them so they never taste like neem oil. The Wash isvery good it makes for a really clean smooth smoke.

As for getting rid of it, if it’s outside I just have to keep spraying with things that hold it back and I’m in a climate that can be perfect for PM to thrive. Outside I can’t seem to get rid of it but I can keep it to a minimum and prevent it if I spray preventatively from the beginning of the plants life.

If it’s inside a grow room or controlled area. I think you can get rid of it if you meticulously clean the area really well before the next round of plants and then you can control the temps & RH to make an environment that prohibits the growth of PM.

There is lots of information online and here is one link to some good info



Redirect Notice


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## randallb (Feb 5, 2020)

FastFreddi said:


> Vinegar lowers ph...pm loves acidic conditions. Try using a high ph 8+ with added h2o2 if in flower...be mindful of budrot. Protect the medium from heavy runoff...don't want to hurt the herd( if in soil).
> Good luck
> FF


Yes I want to lower ph and Vinegar has been working like a charm doing that, so I'll stay with it. PM dies, it certainly doesn't love that type of acidity. I have also tried the higher ph route with baking soda and not had as good a result. Plus the residue from the bs looks like pm a little.


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## Yesyes3000 (Feb 5, 2020)

Ok thanks guys !


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## curious2garden (Feb 5, 2020)

Yesyes3000 said:


> Ok thanks guys !


Marrone Regalia, it's also OMRI.


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## BobCajun (Feb 6, 2020)

I don't know about PM but gray mold likes acidic conditions, it actually exudes oxalic acid to acidify the area around it. That's why people use alkaline spray, like potassium bicarbonate. It can cause some damage though, a little browning of some calyxes. UVB is supposed to be good for killing PM and other molds. Maybe you could try adding some to the spectrum, taking necessary precautions to avoid exposure. Of course you should wash the buds after harvest to remove anything you apply with spraying, and any mold that's on them. Don't use any chems like Eagle 20 unless you like poisoning yourself or whoever smokes it. That stuff is not made for smokable plants, it turns into toxic compounds when burned.


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## Zoonotic6988 (Feb 6, 2020)

I just went through this... I ended up reading about spraying with diluted h202. I did a solution of 3% then mixed it 100ml into 1L and sprayed the plants down like crazy. I did this for a few days and it literally all disappeared. I run perpetual with multiple rooms and it was even spreading into my vegging room. Since soaking everything it all cleared up and now I spray em every week with h202 incase.


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## Cardlee P (Feb 6, 2020)

Get an ozone generator. Or get rid of those weak clones. Serenade will let you squeek by till conditions improve. Fresh vigorous seedlings got the best chance out of all this.


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## GGR (Feb 6, 2020)

I'd start with stabilizing your humidity if possible in the space, make sure you've got good airflow, down low especially, make sure you've also got a good amount of air being exchanged in and out as well. Greencure at half the recommended dose alternated with the dilute h2o2 will help knock it back, regalia is definitely a great way to help the plant itself try to fight it off, Bennie's in a foliar app(depending how far along you wanna spray) will compete with and consume the pm, silica in your feed regimen and or foliar sprayed will help in 3 ways 1 higher ph helps mitigate the pm itself 2 it will be absorbed into the plant to help strengthen leaves, ie harder for the pm to penetrate the surface 3 the plant can load it up in an infected area to help the plant fight it off, running a sulfur burner in the space can help big time but not advisable post wk 5 of flower, I had the crap bad a grow back and used all of these things in unison to beat it into submission, I also heated my whole space between runs to 115f for about 4 hours then followed up with a 2 hour sulfur burn, lots of work lol.I know it's still around hiding but with dialed conditions and a good ipm you shouldn't have to deal with it again, I just treated it like mites really attack on all fronts hope I helped you sir and good luck with your battle


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## God of Agriculture (Feb 6, 2020)

Greecure works best and I've used neem, baking soda, h202, milk etc..but much better outcome with Greencure. First dose use 1 tablespoon per gallon...then half a teaspoon every 7 days....and they'll be just fine. Using the recommended dose will brown pistils but new ones will emerge. Works on CONTACT as it immediately dehydrates the spores. Can use it pre and post harvest...leaves no residue or actually taste and no foul smell, plus it's ALL organic and safe for all.. Happy Grows!


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## Yesyes3000 (Feb 6, 2020)

GGR said:


> I'd start with stabilizing your humidity if possible in the space, make sure you've got good airflow, down low especially, make sure you've also got a good amount of air being exchanged in and out as well. Greencure at half the recommended dose alternated with the dilute h2o2 will help knock it back, regalia is definitely a great way to help the plant itself try to fight it off, Bennie's in a foliar app(depending how far along you wanna spray) will compete with and consume the pm, silica in your feed regimen and or foliar sprayed will help in 3 ways 1 higher ph helps mitigate the pm itself 2 it will be absorbed into the plant to help strengthen leaves, ie harder for the pm to penetrate the surface 3 the plant can load it up in an infected area to help the plant fight it off, running a sulfur burner in the space can help big time but not advisable post wk 5 of flower, I had the crap bad a grow back and used all of these things in unison to beat it into submission, I also heated my whole space between runs to 115f for about 4 hours then followed up with a 2 hour sulfur burn, lots of work lol.I know it's still around hiding but with dialed conditions and a good ipm you shouldn't have to deal with it again, I just treated it like mites really attack on all fronts hope I helped you sir and good luck with your battle


 Thank you very much. It’s my friend who is struggling. I gave him 30 clones. They are lemon og kush , gorilla bomb,cheese, white widow. I never had pm on any of them b4. I think that he got it at his house somehow. Maybe from an outdoor plant. But I was wondering if it possible for pm to be inside clones cells or w/e and the pm doesn’t flourish until it’s got the right conditions maybe ? Idk . Also is it possible to completely get rid of it ? Or once it’s on the plant it can never be 100% removed ?


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## JesusFreakier (Feb 10, 2020)

Yesyes3000 said:


> Hello everyone. I’m posting here in hopes of acquiring the attention and knowledge of an advanced grower with experience with PM (powder mildew)
> Is it something that can’t be gotten rid of ? Is eagle20 get rid of it ? Or do all the remedy’s people share just keep it from flaring up ? I’ve read of people who have had pm and then gotten rid of it. My friend is having some problems with it and has done all the obvious changes to help his situation. Anyhow if people could just share how they got rid of it that would be awesome. Thank you for your time !!
> 
> grateful 3000


Hi All, I suffered from White Powder Mold and discovered a large patch of it on the neighbor's lawn outside my building. Yes some strains are prone to it 10X, and some resist it well. H2O2, not the best choice. The absolute cure is Mite Massacre at 1/2 strength. WARNING, this stuff is absolutely worthless for Spider Mites, yet it is the absolute cure for White Powder Mold. Use 3/4 tsp per Quart of water. Spray bottoms and tops of leaves and every stem and branch. Spray the soil too, the pots, and walls and ceiling. Will not hurt the leaves. WARNING, if you mix as instructed for Spider Mites, it will trash every leaf and you will be so sorry they even sell this stuff as Spider Mite control. For spider mites during veg, use Pyrethrins such as Mighty Might Control. You can make it stronger with a few drops of 35% Pyrethrins. Unless you smoke the veg, no issues doing this. No leaf harm or any ill effect.


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## manfredo (Feb 16, 2020)

Unfortunately, I'm starting to have a vast knowledge of PM, 1st hand....read this









6 Ways to Cure Powdery Mildew on Cannabis Organically - Mold Resistant Strains


Ultimate guide to powdery mildew cures. How to get rid of powdery mildew on cannabis fast during veg or flowering. The best organic methods




moldresistantstrains.com





If the plants are young I'd get rid of them, and anything associated with them, like their soil.


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## Mr Westmont (Feb 19, 2020)

I might like to add, ever since I went completely organic, I have not experienced a single spot of powdery mildew.


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## manfredo (Feb 20, 2020)

Yesyes3000 said:


> But I was wondering if it possible for pm to be inside clones cells or w/e and the pm doesn’t flourish until it’s got the right conditions maybe ? Idk . Also is it possible to completely get rid of it ? Or once it’s on the plant it can never be 100% removed ?


I believe that'e very possible, even likely that the pm was there and just didn't flourish until the right conditions came along. But it's also possible it came from something else, even your friends soil.

IDK whether it can ever be completely eradicated...It's one of those strange common diseases that even the best experts don't agree on whether it is systemic or not.

I am having good luck with potassium bicarbonate, and it is only $10 for a pound, and can be applied daily, even in flower. mix 1 tablespoon PB with 1 tablespoon teaspoon *mild* liquid soap to a gallon of water and spray when lights are out. After 2 treatments my PM is mostly gone (to the eye). And supposedly it can eliminate the problem.






Amazon.com: Potassium Bicarbonate - 1 lb. : Health & Household


Buy Potassium Bicarbonate - 1 lb.: Potassium - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com


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## manfredo (Feb 20, 2020)

Mr Westmont said:


> I might like to add, ever since I went completely organic, I have not experienced a single spot of powdery mildew.


Consider yourself lucky, because i grow completely organic and I got it...I personally think organic is worse for pm, as you have all that naturally decomposing goodies in your soil. But of course it makes for better final product!


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## Mr Westmont (Feb 21, 2020)

manfredo said:


> Consider yourself lucky, because i grow completely organic and I got it..*.I personally think organic is worse for pm, as you have all that naturally decomposing goodies in your soil*. But of course it makes for better final product!


 I STRONGLY disagree with the bolded and underlined part of your statement. That goes against the very fundamentals of how bacteria, fungi, and plants work) (Source: my AA in horticulture, BS in Environmental Science, and 2 years of masters work at an USDA research farm). I wouldn't say lucky at all. Just followed some agricultural principles. Do you generally see powdery in general in healthy gardens? PM only attacks weak plants, just like spider mites, and lions on the african savannah. Right? I mean they chase after the young and the weak. I can tell my plants are healthy, based on the color, smell, growth, and especially big, thick, fat, greasy fan leaves. When leaves are thin, kinda roll over, or have almost a transparent look to it, you have an unhealthy plant.....and susceptible to PM. My next door neighbor, who grows, has no clue. Spider mites and PM everywhere. And I mean right next door. We pass joints and beer over the fence to each other. But still, not a single mite or PM spot on my plants.


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## xtsho (Feb 22, 2020)

I have great success outside on the roses and the Squash and pumpkin leaves in the garden using neem oil a few times during the growing season. I've never had PM on cannabis but I always spray with neem a couple weeks after germination and then weekly until they go in the flower room. 



Fungicides for powdery mildew on fruits and berries - UC IPM



*"Fungicides*
Powdery mildew on fruits & berries
Several least-toxic fungicides are available for backyard trees and vines, including horticultural oils, *neem oi*l, jojoba oil, sulfur, and the biological fungicide Serenade. With the exception of the oils, these materials are primarily preventive. Oils work best as eradicants but also work as good protectants. The fungicides listed here are registered for home use. Commercial growers should consult the UC IPM Pest Management Guidelines for fungicides for commercial use.

*Oils*
To eradicate powdery mildew infections, use a horticultural oil such as Saf-T-Side Spray Oil, Sunspray Ultra-Fine Spray Oil or one of the plant-based oils such as* neem oil* (such as Green Light Neem Concentrate) or jojoba oil (such as E-rase). _Be careful, however, never to apply an oil spray within 2 weeks of a sulfur spray_ or plants may be injured. Some plants may be more sensitive than others, however, and the interval required between sulfur and oil sprays may be even longer; always consult the fungicide label for any special precautions. Also, _oils should never be applied when temperatures are above 90°F or to drought-stressed plants_. Horticultural oils and neem and jojoba oils are registered on a wide variety of crops."


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## Dr. Who (Feb 26, 2020)

Mr Westmont said:


> Do you generally see powdery in general in healthy gardens? PM only attacks weak plants, just like spider mites, and lions on the african savannah. Right? I mean they chase after the young and the weak. I can tell my plants are healthy, based on the color, smell, growth, and especially big, thick, fat, greasy fan leaves.


Greasy? Waxy shine all over? To much N

PM will attack any garden! It simply needs the right environmental conditions to start.


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## Dr. Who (Feb 26, 2020)

Proper use of Sulfur burners is the best way to knock down a strong persistent problem!

Once you have it under control....and I mean not appearing. You MUST sanitize the entire grow!
EVERY where, and Everything in it must be hit. 
I use a sanitizing bleach mix and spray on the walls, ceiling, floors and on every exposed surface - INCLUDING the bottoms of anything in the grow area. Fricking EVERYTHING must be sprayed or wiped down with the sanitizing mix..

I use Green cure in a minor amount and home brewed Horsetail grass tea... The Green Cure is used to break surface tension only.
Horse Tail Grass tea is a fine fungicide! 

Eagle 20: It works but, the problems with it's use outweigh it's benefits.
I get asked a lot why PM comes back after a few weeks-even after E-20 use. "it's systemic,,right?"
Well, as with any thing that treats a plant systemically.
There comes a point when the compound within the plant gets diluted so much it's not effective anymore....


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## dwood8165 (Feb 28, 2020)

I use a sulfur burner. I turn it on during lights out. Let it run 4 to 6 hours with one fan coming on every 15 minutes. The plants liked it alot. Then I would apply a spraying of neem oil or Green cure. But I washed the walls and everything just to make sure it was gone. Also I got the humidity in check. At the time i was pulling cold air (winter time) from outside getting heated up by the lamps. corrected that and it has been over a year and know signs. Knock on wood


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## manfredo (Feb 28, 2020)

Dr. Who said:


> PM will attack any garden! It simply needs the right environmental conditions to start.


That's the absolute fact!! It doesn't matter how healthy your plants are, they can still get pm or anything else if the conditions are right (or wrong). Of course healthier plants have a better chance of surviving, and young plants are even more vulnerable.


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## parisscoco (Mar 4, 2020)

milk's the best


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## Renfro (Mar 5, 2020)

Actinovate. Hear me now and thank me later. For active PM issues use 2 teaspoons per gallon, preventative use 1 teaspoon per gallon. pH the foliar application to 10.0 as well.


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## RangiSTaxi (Mar 13, 2020)

Can People please post your PM photos, Ive never had it in over 15-20 years of growing! , and would like to see the environmental conditions it arises in, Ive seen it in pumpkins in the field and a few times in strawberry plants, in dry stress conditions/low humidity. but never in cannabis.

Now for Prevention, as its better than cure, *Potassium silicate* in veg, water it on and foliar feed it (Spray the leaves till run off, top and bottoms of leaves, half a hour before dark or lights out.) and water it on at double dosages (totally safe)in flower and veg, it mixes fine with other nutrients, it *hardens the cell walls of plants*, the leaves will take on a reflective sheen.



SilikaMajic - FlairForm Potassium Silicate | Silica & Plant Growth - Flairform



If you use Potassium silicate in veg, you will never have a PM issue again, as long as your plant soil doesn't get too dry, for too long.

Silica must be used throughout both vegetative and flowering phases. Electron microscopy and x-ray analysis both confirm that existing silica within the plant is not mobile and cannot benefit new growth. To benefit new growth therefore, silica must be present at all times in the nutrient solution. Various research projects have shown that the presence of silica in plant tissue produces several beneficial side effects:
● Silica produces healthier and stronger plant growth. When silica is taken up by the roots, it is deposited in the cell walls of the plant as a solid, rigid 'quartz-like' matrix. This produces a ‘mechanically’ stronger plant which enables superior leaf orientation and therefore greater rates of photosynthesis and growth.
● Increases the weight and shelf-life of fruit due to the physical accumulation of silica in plant cells.
● Increases plant tolerance to heat stress or “wilting”.
● *Increases resistance to fungal diseases, particularly mildews and botrytis. It resists fungal ingress by accumulating around the points of fungal attack.*
● Improves the healing rate and neatness of pruning wounds. This property is especially beneficial in commercial cropping of plants such as tomato and cucumber. Regular pruning of these species threatens the plant's survival due to the risk of disease penetration through the site of the pruning wound.

Plus Potassium Silicate increases dry matter, increases cannabis yields massively and makes your buds dense and rock solid.


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## bazoomer (Mar 15, 2020)

Sulpher burner, works every time over the damp shitty season here in UK, especially in a shed. Hot Box.


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## dwood8165 (Mar 15, 2020)

Also for a preventative. I still run my sulfur burner in veg and the first two weeks of flower


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## Ogchieff (Jun 5, 2020)

Can someone help me from going crazy. My plants look healthy and my temps and humidity have been very well controlled 78f 40%rh. I’m in week 1 of flower and examining my plants extremely close. Is what I’m seeing EARLY stages of powder mildew or is this normal. Notice I’m zoomed in extremely close so I don’t know if this is something I’m just overthinking. My intake fan does allow dust in my environment Help please


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## randallb (Jun 5, 2020)

You can get pm if the leaves overlay one another even if temp/humidity are good. In pic 1 , go look at some of the lower most buds/growth, you should see it heavier there....if it's there. Can only commit to "could be/not sure" on the other pics.


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## parisscoco (Jun 6, 2020)

.potassium permanganate


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## Gemtree (Jun 6, 2020)

RangiSTaxi said:


> Can People please post your PM photos, Ive never had it in over 15-20 years of growing! , and would like to see the environmental conditions it arises in, Ive seen it in pumpkins in the field and a few times in strawberry plants, in dry stress conditions/low humidity. but never in cannabis.
> 
> Now for Prevention, as its better than cure, *Potassium silicate* in veg, water it on and foliar feed it (Spray the leaves till run off, top and bottoms of leaves, half a hour before dark or lights out.) and water it on at double dosages (totally safe)in flower and veg, it mixes fine with other nutrients, it *hardens the cell walls of plants*, the leaves will take on a reflective sheen.
> 
> ...


Seems to be working for me I had pm last grow and have been spraying and watering my clones with AgsilH16 that had a couple spots and no sign. The eighth teaspoon per quart of ro comes out right at 10 ph.


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## Renfro (Jun 6, 2020)

Dr. Who said:


> Proper use of Sulfur burners is the best way to knock down a strong persistent problem!


YES!

It will end the problem, clean a room, it's the best. Cheap too.


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## Renfro (Jun 6, 2020)

An expensive way to keep a room sterile:









Home - AirROS Agriculture


AirROS is an industrial air and surface purification system that kills mold, bacteria, viruses including e-coli, salmonella, norovirus, ethylene gas plus odor control.




www.airrosbysage.com





It will not only sterilize anything in the air but surfaces too (like your leaves).


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## Gemtree (Jun 6, 2020)

Renfro said:


> An expensive way to keep a room sterile:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I put my true hepa filter in there hope it helps.


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## Chuckle_berry (Jun 10, 2020)

I had this i used everything.. milk, acidic water, vinegar water, cx PM washed every leave with a toothbrush... spent about 2 hours every couple of days from week 6 to 8.. cut away all the badly affected leaves. It didnt work it was game over and for the chop. I wouldnt like it again . I think that late in flower my chances would be slim of eradicating it.
Other than sulphur


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## Amaximus (Jul 1, 2020)

richardcounts said:


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You are a shill and a pop-tart. Go away we have enough idiots here.


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## Rayquaza (Jul 3, 2020)

1 teaspoon 3% Hydrogen Peroxide + 1 cup water. Apply as a foliar spray or water the soil with this solution. Completely safe for the plant and will kill PM.


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## codster25 (Jul 13, 2020)

Yesyes3000 said:


> Hello everyone. I’m posting here in hopes of acquiring the attention and knowledge of an advanced grower with experience with PM (powder mildew)
> Is it something that can’t be gotten rid of ? Is eagle20 get rid of it ? Or do all the remedy’s people share just keep it from flaring up ? I’ve read of people who have had pm and then gotten rid of it. My friend is having some problems with it and has done all the obvious changes to help his situation. Anyhow if people could just share how they got rid of it that would be awesome. Thank you for your time !!
> 
> grateful 3000


You probably won’t believe me but this shit works great and can be used while flowering(though I prefer not to). Same type of stuff they spray food with, says can be used up to 4 days before harvest.
Although not advertised for PM it always works


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## FlakeyFoont (Jul 13, 2020)

I fought with this stuff for a couple o years. I grow in a crawl space with too many sensitive electronics and mechanicals to burn sulfur, and foliars just added to the humidity. Had a bit of a seesaw effect!

After essentially just staving it off with foliars, and then having to wash that stuff off, I finally broke down and got one of these: https://www.cleanlightdirect.com/en/cleanlight-pro.html

I will see a spot or two if the humidity gets around 60%, but other than that, there has been nothing on the plants for over 4 months (and this is when I used to get it worst).

It's just a matter of sweeping over the plants daily, for now.

No more foliars, no more washing, save 2 oz's and it's paid for itself


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## smokadepep (Jul 15, 2020)

Never had PM but run a strict IPM program but from what I understand is sulfur is the way to go. We don't burn it though, we buy the wettable sulfur from Lowes. Cost like $7 for a large supply. We also use Greencure as preventative. We spray down our mothers bi weekly alternating between the greencure and sulfur and anything right before we flip to flower we hit with a coat of the sulfur. It provides a protective barrier. Also good for killing off mites and anything trying to attach to your plant leaves. 
The other issue is the source of the PM. If it is not on your leaves itself then you need to find it. It is somewhere in or near the garden being brought in through air spores. We run a UVC light with Ozone in all of our tents once a month to eliminate any spores and to sanitize. Of course we remove our plants when we do this. It is a process but the UVC and Ozone will disinfect stronger than bleach and kill any bugs or bug eggs. Just need to vent it out for about a half an hour before re-introducing plants


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