# light rail



## DIRTHAWKER (Nov 1, 2008)

has anyone used light rails? and would you recomend it?


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## skyblazer (Nov 1, 2008)

The theory is really quite solid on this. Greater area of coverage, more evenly dispersed light so more consistent yield across the greater number of plants.

I will be setting up a light rail this weekend though so I'll find out soon enough!


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## DIRTHAWKER (Nov 1, 2008)

true... good luck..what one did you buy?


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## holmes (Nov 1, 2008)

> The theory is really quite solid on this. Greater area of coverage, more evenly dispersed light so more consistent yield across the greater number of plants.
> 
> I will be setting up a light rail this weekend though so I'll find out soon enough!


i wish it was that simple, i have not used one, i think its a great concept, but i have read many negative things about it. such as it decreased yeild per plant, and only gave a very minimal gain on the extra plant. and that it was a pain in the ass to set up, especially if you air cool them.


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## norcalkronic (Nov 1, 2008)

I can only speak from what i have read because i have not compared the difference but heres what i think.

Light rails produce enough product to justify the cost of a light rail and the cost you spend on electricity if used correctly. Many people, such as marijuana guru subcool, have reported an increase in yield per light after implementing a light mover. Light tracks and movers grow plants with lighting much more similar to the movement in the sun. Plant and nug structure is more uniform and round, like outdoor colas, because all sides of almost every nug receive direct light. With a SOG, SCROG or properly trained canopy light rails are the most efficient. Do not make the mistake of placing your light too close just because the movement allows for it heat wise. When light intensity increases a plants over all production only increases efficiently for so long. In fact, if the intensity is high enough the plants do not grow at all. Make sure you are covering at least a 4x4 area per 1000w light of even canopy at any given time. You will see an increase in yield.

Use common sense. If you plan to cover a large area with a few number of plants you have to grow them into it. don't use the light mover until you can fill the required area.


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## norcalkronic (Nov 1, 2008)

> i wish it was that simple, i have not used one, i think its a great concept, but i have read many negative things about it. such as it decreased yeild per plant, and only gave a very minimal gain on the extra plant. and that it was a pain in the ass to set up, especially if you air cool them.


A decreased yield per plant is inevitable unless you veg your plants longer and wider. 

The light mover may decrease your yield per _plant_ but if used correctly can give you an increase in yield per _light_.

It will also increase your total yield per kilowatt of electricity spent during both veg and flower, however the only way to accomplish this is to increase the number of plants you grow.

I find the hydrofarm track to be very easy to install.

I have also designed an air cooling system that works quite well. flexible ducting compresses and expands very well which allows for many options.


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## holmes (Nov 2, 2008)

how far do you plan on letting the light travel?


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## DIRTHAWKER (Nov 2, 2008)

I have an 8ft wide room the 6' rail allows for optimal coverage.





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## holmes (Nov 2, 2008)

sorry, do you plan on covering 8 feet with a 6 foot track?(bad idea i think), maybe if you add a lamp on, and move two on a track for an 8 foot length
heres a link to a guy who used light movers, he had 2 600's on a mover covering an area of 4x8, he then tried three stationary lights
his results where more total weight with the 3 lights, almost a pound more if i remember right. but he was yeilding more per watt using the light mover
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=77825&page=1&pp=15

please let us know how it works out for you


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## Seamaiden (Nov 2, 2008)

Light Track System, 6' Hydrofarm Light Mover - eBay (item 330223807649 end time Nov-24-08 06:24:07 PST)


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## DIRTHAWKER (Nov 2, 2008)

wow great find seamaiden. 

actually the garden parameter is just about 6ft by 4ft in an 8ft room so the light rail would cover perfect.

I havent decided yet if im gonna go with the light rail, still gathering info...it has its pros and cons.


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## timmmy2021 (Nov 2, 2008)

i have a 4' x 7' room would a 600w with a rail work or should i get a 1000w?


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## holmes (Nov 2, 2008)

consider this, this plant requires a minimum of 50watts per square foot and up, for good quality.
a 1000 watter can cover 20 sq.ft, mathematically, it wont be even cause center light is strongest, uneven growth is expected.
now you want to cover 28sq.ft
i would use the 1000, to best make up the dark time the corners will experience, i would also use reflective material on every corner. 

now are you boys gonna be air cooling these lights?
cause if not, i would install an adjust a wing reflector, covers a large area without the bullshit


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## timmmy2021 (Nov 2, 2008)

wing reflector??? i was planing on using a 600w-1000w 300cfm ext fan and 175cfm in fan. also have ac unit if it gets to hot...


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## DIRTHAWKER (Nov 2, 2008)

Thats an interesting idea (wing reflectors) My thought on using 2 600watt hps's on movers to cover my grow (approx 5ft by 6ft) was to get optimum exposure, low heat low energy. My room is 8x8x8.. if i have plenty of air movement (fresh outside air intake fan) and other vents along with a constant exhaust fan, im thinking that i just might not have to cool the lights?
and may possibly be able to go with the wing reflectors.

basicly, my question is the same as timmys,, if you have constant exchange of air, an ac unit and low wattage (600 watt lights) would you need aircooled reflectors? I guess it depends on your climate, where im at the next 6-9 months are mid 50s to high 60s.

thougts?


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## Seamaiden (Nov 2, 2008)

DIRTHAWKER said:


> wow great find seamaiden.
> 
> actually the garden parameter is just about 6ft by 4ft in an 8ft room so the light rail would cover perfect.
> 
> I havent decided yet if im gonna go with the light rail, still gathering info...it has its pros and cons.


Not my find, DH.  I nicked it, from someone else! This lady seems to really know all her plant-ee stuffness, and loves her lightmover. If I recall she said this particular one is what she has, but I can't remember whether or not she'd done some tweaks with it. One of the things that I like about it, besides more closely mimicing natural conditions, is that you wouldn't have to rotate plants so that they all get more or less equal amounts of light. That would save my back (and leave less chance for me to drop them, upside down, onto their tight and fat buds  ).


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## DaGambler (Nov 3, 2008)

on the first pic of the two lights on rails sliding right past eachother... all you need to do is space those two lights over the grow area - no rails needed.

i did grow in a 7' by 7' one time with a hps 1000 and a mh 400. i used a Sun Circle to very Great effect to balance out the lighting. (vented hoods not possible with the ones that do a full rotation, while others swing around almost fully and then back again)

if money were no object and you kept the rail on a short 'run'... i'm sure it would increase the yield a bit via better penetration... but the longer the run the more i would think you'd see that loss of gain per plant.


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## DIRTHAWKER (Nov 3, 2008)

I thought 600 watters only cover an area of 3 sq ft? that is why i thought rails would be better for this set up. being the garden perimeter is approx 5ft by 6ft.


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## DaGambler (Nov 3, 2008)

IMO ... you'd do fine placing one lamp over each of the delineated grow area, perhaps just slightly further apart than the center of each area... plus make sure that the 'long sides' of the rectangular reflectors are parallel.


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## timmmy2021 (Nov 3, 2008)

so i went to the hydro store today ... 1000w + air cooled hood= 150$ + bulb= 60-200$ 4' light rail =105$. not as much $$ as i thought .... my area is 4'w x 7'L x 8'T

i cant find any trays 4x7
would it be a better idea to have one tray or 2??? 
how many plants could i fit and what would be my yeild???????????
i was thinking 3 sets of 10 plants ever 3weeks apart= 30 plants. every 3 weeks harvest once i get going.....
tell me what you guys think about this idea???


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## fred flintstoned (Nov 3, 2008)

My 2 cents:
The ac may not be necessary. Aircooling and good ventilation/air exchange should do the trick. Try to avoid the ac unit if at all possible. They use alot of power(my 10500btu unit uses 1100watts).I would set up with just lights and fans first and closely monitor temps. Although you can get lights much closer with aircooled hoods, you may not need to use them at all.
As to coverage, Manufacturers say 600"s "cover" 4x4. Maybe so, but an area 40"x40"(1sq meter) will be covered very efficiently. This will result in a much more even canopy.
Happy Trails
FF


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## DIRTHAWKER (Nov 3, 2008)

timmmy2021 said:


> so i went to the hydro store today ... 1000w + air cooled hood= 150$ + bulb= 60-200$ 4' light rail =105$. not as much $$ as i thought .... my area is 4'w x 7'L x 8'T
> 
> i cant find any trays 4x7
> would it be a better idea to have one tray or 2???
> ...


check out Stinkbuds thread on aero/nft harvest a lb every 3 weeks.


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## DIRTHAWKER (Nov 3, 2008)

Yea fred i agree, i think 2 600 watters would be just fine for a 5x6 garden,, and that is great advice to just monitor the ventilation. check out my room log.


https://www.rollitup.org/grow-room-design-setup/123213-dirthawkers-flower-room-start-finish.html


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## Seamaiden (Nov 3, 2008)

Dang, Timmy, that sounds like a sweet deal, just on the light and hood.


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## holmes (Nov 3, 2008)

for the guy with the small room, i wouldnt use light movers if you were gonna start with two lights, unless you dont mind splurging.

as far as the ac, it gives you better control of the room temps, and it helps keep humidity down, when on. plus no worries of smells drifting out by accident. but yes, they use lots of electricity, but if your room is well insulated, and the lights are air cooled, the ac wont be running full time, and you can always run the op at night when temps are at the coolest.

my thoughts on a light rail, i would use a 1000w on a max of 4' rail. its a short distance, youll get the benefit of light from different angles, reduced hot spots, and youll gain an extra foot or two on your grow space. best for sog i think.

good luck guys


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## timmmy2021 (Nov 5, 2008)

so i hot the light and air cooled hood 150$ i need a bulb and a mover. can any one give me any addvice on what type of set up i should use? hydro soil airo???? i have a hydro spinner system right now but i would like to use a flood and drain system . i think their the easyest ??????


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## panhead (Nov 10, 2008)

Im currently running 1 6ft mover & 3 4ft movers & just started my 3rd full grow running them,if your plan is to increase grow area your in for a dissapointment,movers are best used for getting penetration to all areas of the grow op every day.

In a stationary grow op the plants on the sides get much less light,with a mover the side plants get more light causing heavier & more dense buds,you'll gain more weight using movers without increasing the grow area than if you do increrase the area,increased area normally means lanky & stretched plants.


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## timmmy2021 (Nov 10, 2008)

really????? hm


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## Seamaiden (Nov 11, 2008)

panhead said:


> Im currently running 1 6ft mover & 3 4ft movers & just started my 3rd full grow running them,if your plan is to increase grow area your in for a dissapointment,movers are best used for getting penetration to all areas of the grow op every day.
> 
> In a stationary grow op the plants on the sides get much less light,with a mover the side plants get more light causing heavier & more dense buds,you'll gain more weight using movers without increasing the grow area than if you do increrase the area,increased area normally means lanky & stretched plants.


This makes sense, and gets more to what I've been aiming at, mentally (trying to sort out the how of the what). I can't remember how many lights you said you have on your rig.


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## panhead (Nov 11, 2008)

Seamaiden said:


> This makes sense, and gets more to what I've been aiming at, mentally (trying to sort out the how of the what). I can't remember how many lights you said you have on your rig.


Howdy,my current set up's are running 2,200 watts in the bud room,since my abscense ive scaled back to a single bud room & a clone/mother room,in the bud room im running a single 1,000 watt HPS in tandem with a 6ft mover in the center of the room,on each side im running a 600 watt HPS light in tandem with a 4ft mover on each light,the movers are timed so that when the 1,000 watt light is at the south end of the room both 600 watter's are at the north end,this gives me max penetration with what light im running,in the clone/mother room im running a single 400 watt HPS along with a 4ft mover.

Due to the fact that all 3 lights meet in the center of the canopy & deliver more light to those plants i rotate all the plants every 2 days when i visit the grow op's.

I cant wait till our doc writes both the MRS & myself the paperwork for us to become legit,we have an appointment with our doc next wednesday to discuss it


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## timmmy2021 (Nov 11, 2008)

what what???? legit?how?


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## panhead (Nov 11, 2008)

timmmy2021 said:


> what what???? legit?how?


Legal medical Marijuana useage has been voted in for sick people in my state of Michigan,my wife has Multiple Sclorosis & i was burned over 12% of my body with 3rd degree burns & also broke my back years earlier,we have other medical issues as well but you get the point,both of us see the same pain management doctor that ive used for over 20 years,we'll easily meet the standards of qualification outlined in the state law.


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## timmmy2021 (Nov 11, 2008)

Medical Marijuana is now legal in Michigan & im done skulking around,my name is Levi & i grow & use weed daily. 



got it thanks.


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## Seamaiden (Nov 11, 2008)

panhead said:


> I cant wait till our doc writes both the MRS & myself the paperwork for us to become legit,we have an appointment with our doc next wednesday to discuss it


Congratulations on your shiny new law, Levi.  Thanks for the information.


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## DIRTHAWKER (Nov 13, 2008)

Whats your guys thought on the best configuration?


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## panhead (Nov 13, 2008)

Configuration #1 cant be used with all light movers,to use it the travel needs to be regulated ,with the cheaper model movers it is not possible as the mover is on a continuous loop around the track.

Member filthyfletch has a diagram somewhere around here showing how to set up a mover in a side by side configuration for the economy model movers like mine.


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## DIRTHAWKER (Nov 13, 2008)

Thanks panhead,, so are you saying that the side by side configuration would be the best like in example 2? 

my garden is a certain number of plants and i wont be increasing. the perimeter will stay the same and of course i hope to keep the plants between 2-3 ft tall, perpetuall harvest aero setup.

Ive seen plans to modify the rail in both setups. I just want opinions on which would cover the garden better.


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## peacey (Aug 17, 2009)

I am currently lucky enough to be growing in a set up with two stationary 600s over six plants and two 600s on light movers with 12 plants. Medium size indica dominant strains. I know obviously the stationary 600 plants are going to do better than the 12. I am happy with the idea of doubling the amount of plants in flowering as well. Watching with a tested patience to see the results. I do believe I will either add another light to be moved with the other 2 600s or shorten the distance of the motion and add one more stationary. The way the basement is set up, we do not have a lot of play room on the ceiling- so we have to choose our spots wisely with a limited situation- old house new wiring  There is this little gap between the stationary lights and the mover area that needs to be connect with light by like 1 foot. Well, I will hopefully let you all know how it all turns out.

Peacey


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## peacey (Aug 17, 2009)

Oh, 
I am using figure number 2 for the record. If you are not trying to increase your grow area and are going to be using the same number of plants I would go with number 1. That is of course as long as your plants are going to be 3 feet tall and you having enough space between the light and the tops (at least a foot in a controlled temp). If you end up growing taller plants go with fig number 2 and put the tall plants in the middle of the lights so the top is not right under the hot spot of the bulb. Other wise if the plants are in the ZONE - put them right under the bulbs in figure 1 - again as long as temp is not an issue and remember to check the surface temp of the leaf - not just overall room temp. See how there are can be so many right and or wrong answers in this? It is all a matter of Zen - word? Gotta see or feel what is going on in the moment and for anyone anywhere the moment can be different- yet right. Word? Ya feel me?


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## peacey (Aug 17, 2009)

Wow,

Just saw how long it had been since anyone posted on these comments. Any word on the issue. Any results?


Word?


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## bushmang (Aug 18, 2009)

i would install light movers in vegging rooms or moma rooms. For flowering the stationary lights still work best. How ever i have heard that if you use 1 600 just add 30% more floor space and plants sicne the light mover can only compensate for 30% more floor space my friend tried 50% more and the plants suffered.


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