# Stealth Hydro Bubbleponics 1st Grow



## Jmade (Feb 3, 2009)

This is my First grow, I bought a Stealth Hydro bubbleponics system, with all female PPP seeds. I was inspired by and followed Roseman and purpdaddys guide. 

I set the Tank inside an old wooden cabinet that I have, it fit perfectly, Inserted a Dowel rod to mount the lights on, chains to hang them. things got off to an interesting start. we prepped the seeds inside the rock-wool cubes, put styrofoam discs on top of the cubes, the door had warped overtime having the cabinet letting a little bit of light in. the next day or so I had a sprout up and out looking for light, I also think that I may have had the lights up too high for the start, they started growing and shooting up way too fast, their stems couldn't hold the weight. We (my Dad and I) lowered the lights and used to stakes to help support the plants, now they have pretty big stems and seems to be taking off quite well. I picked up a water thermomitor @ a pet shop store to track the water temp, which has been great and we also put a humidifier inside the bottom of the cabinet to bring up the humidity levels. everything seems to be going good now. I have been reading and reading and scouring, I am not quite sure where to go next. My goal was to try to prep and plan everything out to have the easiest grow. So I started with all Female PPP seeds. after reading I'm not sure if the tank can now handle all six girls. I also am having a hard time understanding, executing the proper steps for Sea of Green growing with this tank. We are now at Day 28. Any and all help would and will be greatly appreciated. Thank you


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## Roseman (Feb 4, 2009)

It is not too late to do some Topping and Fiming:


Essentially there are the same, "Pruning" and "Topping", just two different commonly words used. It is also known to some as "Pinching" as well. In this page it will be refered to it as "Topping" 

*Topping is done to increase yield and make them bushy, bushy, promote "branching", and increase the overall yeilds of the plants.* With higher overall yeilds, a grower will successfully harvest many more budds, or floral clusters, and from smaller, bushier and more compact plants. 

To the indoor grower that does not use this technique, but allows their plants to grow tall, it can be a waste of their artificial lighting, and growing spaces potential. With its own natural growth pattern, and without the benifit of topping, your lady will have one main central "khola" budd, at peak flowering. Several other small branches will grow outwards, down its main stalk, with much smaller budd topps. 

The natural growth pattern is to grow upwards at its main stalk. From this main central stalk will begin to grow side branches. The side branches come out as tiny shoots with leaves, and usually there are a pair of them on opposite sides of the main central stalk. 

When the seed leaves have long dyed off on the main stalk. The first true seed leaves commonly can or will, wilt, dry up, or dye off of the plant as well. Once healthy new vegative growth begins the rate of growth can be very fast, with excellent lighting supplied. 

As the new growth increases the light reaching the lower portions of the plants becomes less. Thusly it is common to see first leafs wilting and dying ect. Growers that see leaves wilting or dying, ect, will opt to pulling them off of the plants. 

The main central stalk is topped of just above the branches that are coming out below it. A pair of scissors or your fingers can be used. Once the topping is done you can remove the two upper fans leaves as well. This will aid in the light getting to the newer vegative growth, and other shoot tips, down the main central stalk. 

There are no rules to where you top your plant or how old it needs to be. As long as your plant has shoots protruding further down the main stalk it is able to be topped. When topped the growth of the plant will be concentrated towards the new, younger vegative shoots. 

Once you have topped your plant(s) the younger shoots will rapidly begin growing. With the removal of the main central stalk the lower braches grow more. With topping completed we keep the plants on their regular lighting and feeding schedules. 

Now each new shoot tip will essentially grow as the main stalk did, however the growth is not concentrated to only one central stalk. So as each new shoot grows outward new shoots will grow from each one of them stalks as well. 

Therefore topping can be done again, and again, and as each shoot becomes a growing tip with other shoots forming down its stalk, it is removed. By completing these topping or pruning tactics, a grower can acheive any desired height, or desired bushiness, they desire in their plants.
I TOP and FIM, at the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th week, (I do a rapid Hydro grow) . Look at the results in the pic above my signature. There's a Uncle Ben on this site that has a tutorial about creating extra stalks and branches by using the same method.






Here is a link about topping - Uncle Ben's Topping Technique to get 2 or 4 MAIN colas


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## Roseman (Feb 4, 2009)

You are going to need more Height Space if you plan to VEG them to maturity for 5 weeks, or you need to start 12/12 very soon and do a SOG grow. You will yield much less with SOG, but you will get it faster.............you will get much more yield if you vEG 5 weeks, but it will take longer and you wil need more HEIGHT space.
Study this :Roseman and purpdaddys guide for my Bubbleponics setup from Stealth Hydroponic it is a condensed version of out 400 page thread.


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## Jmade (Feb 5, 2009)

Thanks Roseman, Last night I started to trim... I might not have known exactly what I was doing, but from what It looked like to me was that the area hitting the leaves is smaller than I thought, all the plants are overcrowding one another. I trimmed the tops down to hopefully expose more of the light to the rest of the plant, these PPP's are awesome to grow with! 

We have been having a problem with the Humidity, but we got a humidifier and that will hopefully help with some of the wilting.

I'm thinking that I'll go another 6 days then change the water, and start Bloom?

We'll see how it works out, I'll keep it posted


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## Roseman (Feb 5, 2009)

I;'ll be back.


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## purpdaddy (Feb 7, 2009)

hey man i was looking at your setup and your gonna need waaaay more light..They also look a lil nute burnt..they will shake bak though...looks better since you topped!
I would invest in sum more cfl"s..Trust me you gonna need em


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## Jmade (Feb 9, 2009)

First, 

Thanks purpdaddy for stopping by and taking a look, 

I wouldn't have ever imagined that I could be growing if I hadn't of read You and Roseman's guides. Thanks!

I got back up to my closet with full intentions of changing water and starting boom... 

it was a disaster.

due to me location I am not able to visit but once every few days or so. my dad was looking after them, but he took off on vacation. I was thinking that we were going to be overcrowding the tank when I realized that usually people don't start with 6 fems. but I was trying to see what I could do. 

The plants were touching the lights, the roots had taken over everything. I had a mess. the water looked and smelled terrible, It was like everything i had read about going wrong did. I even saw a couple of spiders (small whitish/clear) around my tank.

I had already bought a couple more CFLs for growing
*Question: should I get the same size? I bought 2 150 Watt CFL 2700k or should I take them back and just buy another 300? or 2 300? *

I broke everything down and cleaned it all out and removed the 2 smallest plants

Now I'm going to admit that I did all this kinda spot on, no time to jump online and read more about tackling every problem, I might have fucked the entire operation up. but I guess thats another reason why I tried this, to see what I could do, or what would happen. I have never grown any plant since like kindergarden in a 2-liter jug.

I cut/untangled to roots to get them apart from one another to re arrange them
*Was this OK?*

cleaned everything with hot water and ran the pump for a while afterward

changed out the water put some more grow nutes in but didnt add the entire bag, (eyeing out the -2 plants)

it smells better, and I'm hoping it will allow for more room and I'm hoping the lights should work better, it was pretty evident that these chicks were fighting each other for everything. Maybe now they can calm down and grow

My sister stopped by and checked on things for me the other day, she said they were looking good, she's gonna send me a few pics and I'll try to get them up here. (I have a pretty rad family)

if all goes well I am going to change to bloom and 12/12 in the next couple days.

*Should I / Could I trim as switching to bloom? *

Thanks for keeping up - you guys rock!


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## Roseman (Feb 9, 2009)

It is OK, it is fine that the roots get all tangled. Everyone's roots get all tangled up, it is OK.

And those plants have been ready for full strenght nutes for a very long time.


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## Jmade (Feb 10, 2009)

Things seem to be doing alright. I'll be able to go check on things in the next day or so!


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## Roseman (Feb 10, 2009)

Looking good!


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## SMOK3R (Feb 10, 2009)

Looking good... I used this system for 2 grows and the second time around used a 12" airstone in place of the circular one that they provide in the system.

Like this one:
http://www.gchydro.com/Elite+Aqua+Fizzzz+Air+Stone.html

It helped a ton.


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## Roseman (Feb 10, 2009)

IF you have the height space, you need to wait a while to start flowering, to get more yield.

Have you added any extra air stones?


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## Roseman (Feb 10, 2009)

*Diagnosis and Recuperation Guide

*

Both new leaves and mature leaves are the best indicators to determine how healthy your plants are. Any problem or illness will first manifest itself in the appearance of your leaves. These problems almost always originate from the plant's environment, PH imbalance or over-feeding and under feeding. These problems always result in what is called "nutritional lock-out". 

*Nutritional Lockout*
Allow us to GIVE you a simplified definition of NUTRIONAL LOCKOUT.
Can you imagine sitting a plate before a child at dinner time, with his most favorite food, hot dogs, ketchup and french fries? But also on the plate is a major portion of steamed broccoli, which he is just not fond of and insists on nibbling on. Now imagine telling that child, "you can not eat the hot dog and fries if you do not eat all the broccoli too". NUTRITONAL LOCKOUT is when the child responds with "well then, I just won't eat!"

Most Hydro nutes nutrients are both nutritionally and PH balanced. But after being in your tank for 5 or 6 days, and being eaten from for 5 or 6 days, they become imbalanced. Perhaps you are growing plants that ate all the nitrogen first and just snacked around the iron, magnesium and calcium, or visa versa. The results are discoloration in the leaves, yellowing or rust spots, or curling up of leaf tips. It also becomes apparent when your plants were consuming a gallon or half gallon of water every day, and then suddenly when you check the levels the next day, they did not drink any water at all. This is NUTRITIONAL LOCKOUT.

Instead of giving lengthy descriptions of indications of overfeeding, underfeeding, ph imbalance, environmental problems and Nutritional Lockout here, it is easier to just give the remedy. Here we will refer to this remedy as THE RECUPERATION AND RECOVERY REMEDY. 


*THE 8 STEP RECUPERATION AND RECOVERY REMEDY* 

*1.* Check the roots. If they are discolored, reddish or brown, or present an unpleasant odor, you have a problem. If they are weak, soft or mushy, you have a problem. Also while checking the roots, observe the temperature of the water. If it is warmer than "luke warm" you have a problem. This problem is probably what is referred to as "root rot" or a disease known as PYTHIUM. Remove the dead brown roots by trimming them away with sharp scissors. Do not leave them in the tank. 
*2.* Check the humidity and temperature of the grow area below the lights in the "growing zone" when the lights are on. A temperature of above 82 degrees or below 67 degrees will slow growth, but it is not a serious problem that will kill your plants. Temperatures below 62 degrees or above 90 degrees will stop growth. An extremely high temperature in the upper 90s or below 58 degrees can slowly result in death of your plants. The most efficient temps for growth are between 72 to 80 degrees. Any Humidity between 40 and 60 percent is acceptable and desirable.
*3.* Check the "lights off, nighttime" temperature. Most desirable is ten to 15 degrees cooler than the daytime "lights on" temperature, averaging 66 to 70 degrees. 
*4.* Check the distance between the tips of the plant and the tip of the light bulb. If you observe yellowing or leaf curling tips, then move the lights one inch further away. A good rule of thumb if you use HID lights, is hold the soft palm of your hand at the leaf tip and see if the bulb is too warm to your hand. If you use Stealth Hydro's compact fluorescent bulbs, we recommend a distance of three or four inches for the 65 and 85 watt bulbs and 4 inches to five inches for the 105 watt bulbs. More mature plants can handle the bulbs slightly closer. 
*5.* Check the position of your fans. Air movement is very necessary for the health of your plants, but too strong of a fan can cause wind burn. Direct your fan toward the tops of the plants and toward the lights. Never position the fan blowing strongly downward on the leaves. 
*6.* Add 1/4 teaspoon of 3% hydrogen peroxide to a gallon of water and add it to the tank per 5 gallons already in the tank. Wait ten minutes and then turn the water and nutrition solution pump off to prepare to drain the tank. Poor at least a cup of clean water through each grow cup, onto each rockwool cube and through the hydroton rocks. 
*7.* Drain or pump the tank empty as possible without damaging the pump by running it dry. Add two gallons of additional clean water with 4 teaspoons of hydrogen peroxide again and then drain it away too. Again, empty the tank as empty as possible without burning up your pump.
*8.* Add fresh PH balanced water and nutritional packets as prescribed. PH test it again.

The above 8 steps should repair and remedy any health problems that your plants experienced within the next two days. Now is the time to try and determine what caused the problem to start with, by investigating and researching typical hydroponics problems and illnesses. Here are a few DIAGNOSIS TIPS. 


*Typical Hydroponics Problems and Illnesses*

*Underfeeding and Weak Nutrition*
The entire plant, both upper and lower leaves, will show lime or light green in color.
The plant will not eat, drink or show growth.
It is time to follow the 8 Step Remedy.

*Overfeeding, Use of Too Strong Nutrients*
The leaves will curl downward. They grow very dark dull flat green and then the tips show signs of burn.
It is time to follow the 8 Step Remedy.

*Nutritional Lockout*
You know that you have made recent PH adjustments. You might know you may have used too much of the PH Adjustment Solution. You may have failed to test the PH often enough. You notice the plants did not eat or drink because they did not consume the same amount of water they used yesterday. You see rust spots. The large lower leaves are prematurely dying and you are not in the BLOOMING or FLOWERING stage.
It is time to follow the 8 Step Remedy.

*Wind Burn*
You had the fan blowing downward toward the upper side of the leaves, instead of blowing up through the node spaces or toward the lights. You observe the leaves becoming dry or even crispy, perhaps shriveling, and the tips curling upward. The leaves do not appear glossy, moist and vibrant.
It is time to follow the 8 Step Remedy.

*Water, Nutrition Solution or Roots Are Discolored Brown Or Have an Unpleasant Odor*
You notice your water is becoming brownish in color, or smells distasteful. Your solution does not smell pleasant and appetizing like fresh lettuce. Your roots are not the same shade of white that they once were a week ago.
It is time to follow the 8 Step Remedy.


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## Jmade (Feb 13, 2009)

I finally got to visit and things are looking great, since I removed two, the roots are looking nice as well. I think I might have gotten a little too trim happy as it looks like a couple stems don't look too good. I heated the water up a little more when adding the nutes last time, hopefully that helped.

I don't really have a whole lot of room to grow anymore right now, this is sorta a test run to see what obstacles we may encounter, next time around we will defiantly have more room to grow larger and also start trimming sooner and help try to influence the grow.


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## Jmade (Feb 13, 2009)

I switched to Bloom and added 2 additional CFLs half the power as the ones that the kit come with they are rated for 150W of regular output, but the same temp 2700K i believe

I have them on a 12/12 light rotation, I also put together a Odor stabilize mixing ONA with water then adding soil moist to absorb it, then blowing the air out of the bucket, it made a huge difference!

I have tried a couple different air stones, from some pet shops and stores but none put out like the one that ships with the kit, I'll check that air stone link out, thanks do you run the 12" and the original one that came with it or ?


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## VaporBros (Feb 14, 2009)

this thread makes me wanna go out tomorrow and put one together!


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## Jmade (Feb 14, 2009)

it is extremely captivating! i would highly recommend it, Roseman and Purp daddy's guides with the kit make it easy enough for you not to destroy the entire process


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## Roseman (Feb 14, 2009)

Cool, man, Awesome!


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## Elove11 (Feb 14, 2009)

looks good man im gunna build a nice big bubbler after this grow


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## SMOK3R (Feb 14, 2009)

Jmade said:


> I have tried a couple different air stones, from some pet shops and stores but none put out like the one that ships with the kit, I'll check that air stone link out, thanks do you run the 12" and the original one that came with it or ?


Yes run both

Lookin good


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## Jmade (Feb 16, 2009)

I went to visit the Girls, discovered that there were problems, I had to cut a lot of the roots out, you can see in a couple pics the roots were pink. I'm guessing that came from the nutes? 

If I have removed 2 plants from the system, should I still mix a bag of the micro and a bag of the bloom? I wasn't sure if it would be too much for them, or what

I changed the water, ran some peroxide through the tank, pretty sure I got everything out.

I have had 2 Air stones since I have started, but didn't realize I had a problem with the airflow, the round air disc that came with the kit was taking over, the other one was getting air, but not enough, I squeezed the airtube with some wire ties and now it seems as both air discs are shooting out about the same amount of air, i have bubbles jumping out the water on top, should be nice for those roots

still have them on 12/12 Bloom nutes we'll see how things go


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## Roseman (Feb 16, 2009)

Jmade said:


> I went to visit the Girls, discovered that there were problems, I had to cut a lot of the roots out, you can see in a couple pics the roots were pink. I'm guessing that came from the nutes?
> 
> Yes, PINK is OK. BROWN is BAD.
> 
> ...


They look good to me! VERY GOOD.


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## 7uckytoker (Feb 16, 2009)

Hey very nice grow. Im intrested in seein what this will yeild. Hey did you think of doing the SeaOfGreen tecnique, cause in that box you'd get lots of tops, and just put your small lights underneath the bottom Canopy of leaves for lower buds.....???? and I think im going to do this same style, where do you buy this supposed kit? and im trying with a 250 w HPS. I'll keep you posted.


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## Roseman (Feb 16, 2009)

WWW.STEALTHHYDRO.COM IS THE SITE


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## Jmade (Feb 17, 2009)

yes www.stealthhydro.com is where you need to go, I am hoping to get a decent yield, I thought that I was doing the Sea of Green, I can just see how the plants arent getting enough light, I switched their places and adjusted the Bubble discs so that they are both even air flow, I am anxious to see what difference that makes, I might try to buy a few more lights to put around and help the bottoms develop.

I started this kit out with 6 Female seeds, and removed the 2 smallest because I was running out of room, maybe i should have left them in, and just trimmed them more, 

*Should/Could I trim now that I'm on Bloom nutes?*

I don't know if it would hurt or if they would still grow, just flower also.

Thanks for swinging by... I should be able to get some more pics and throw them up here tonight!


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## Roseman (Feb 17, 2009)

Never trim or prune a plant in flowering.


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## ronronvc07 (Feb 17, 2009)

is there a way you could isolate the roots from getting in the way of each other?


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## emericakush714 (Feb 17, 2009)

How much was this kit???

Also, are the bubbles supposed to provide extra oxygen?

Isn't the bubbling in a container like that sort of loud or vibrative (is that a word)?

This thread is very interesting...


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## VaporBros (Feb 17, 2009)

the kit is expensive. I dont wanna bash the OP but you can make one for about $25 without the lights. And yes, the bubbles diffuse through-out the roots and provide the oxygen they need


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## Roseman (Feb 18, 2009)

emericakush714 said:


> How much was this kit???
> 
> Also, are the bubbles supposed to provide extra oxygen?
> 
> ...


A kit with 2 Light bulbs and 2 Clamp Reflectors, a tank, air pump and tubes, air stone, water pump and tubes, irrigation hub, 6 grow cups, Timer, Air stone, 6 month supply of premeasured pH balanced Nutrients, including VEG, BLOOM and MICRO nutes, a jar of pH UP, and a jar of pH Down, pH test strips kit, 6 rockwool cubes, pound of hydroton rocks, and 2 3-way extension cords, is $189. 

The bubbles are used in two ways, one, there is an air stone IN the water, giving oxygen to the roots, and there is an under water pump, pumping oxygen enriched nutes and water to each plant's root base, thus the name BUBBLEPONICS.

IT IS SO QUIET, YOU COULD LAY DOWN BESIDE IT AND GO TO SLEEP. It can not be heard a few feet away.


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## Roseman (Feb 18, 2009)

ronronvc07 said:


> is there a way you could isolate the roots from getting in the way of each other?


 
The roots get intertwined and tied together with no problems.


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## Jmade (Feb 18, 2009)

Excellent, Those roots look great, I trimmed mine up, but I'm hoping that they will grow back thick I will visit with them tomorrow.

Do you worry about C02 at all? Should home, inside growers worry about that or not because of the small amount of plants that we have


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## Roseman (Feb 18, 2009)

VaporBros said:


> the kit is expensive. I dont wanna bash the OP but you can make one for about $25 without the lights. And yes, the bubbles diffuse through-out the roots and provide the oxygen they need


the two clamp refectors are $24, ($12 each) at Lowes or Walmart.
That leaves $1 for 
a tank, air pump and tubes, air stone, water pump and tubes, irrigation hub, 6 grow cups, Timer, Air stone, 6 month supply of premeasured pH balanced Nutrients, including VEG, BLOOM and MICRO nutes, a jar of pH UP, and a jar of pH Down, pH test strips kit, 6 rockwool cubes, pound of hydroton rocks, and 2 3-way extension cords and a surge protector. 
Realistically, (but not in your dream world) it can be duplicted for about $100, without the lights. But you get a Instruction Manual on CD, and 24 hour customer support.


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## Roseman (Feb 18, 2009)

Jmade said:


> Excellent, Those roots look great, I trimmed mine up, but I'm hoping that they will grow back thick I will visit with them tomorrow.
> 
> Do you worry about C02 at all? Should home, inside growers worry about that or not because of the small amount of plants that we have


the only time to trim roots is when you are separating a male out.


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## Rocky Smith (Feb 18, 2009)

I need some advise I have 2x2x8 grow space will this work for this system?


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## Jmade (Feb 18, 2009)

I will put the Measurements of my cabinet when I get them tomorrow, I know that the Cab is made by Sauder

I got a couple more pics to throw up here... 

the leaves look like they are spreading out more, and everything looks good!


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## Elove11 (Feb 19, 2009)

plants look good...

whats the tubeing running into ur nets are those just air pump lines or


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## Roseman (Feb 19, 2009)

Rocky Smith said:


> I need some advise I have 2x2x8 grow space will this work for this system?


 
yes, look at www.stealthhydro.com


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## Jmade (Feb 19, 2009)

went to check on them today and they seemed to be doing fine, drank up some water, the humidity was too low, but other than the fact that I need more lights everything seemed to be looking good.

I am thinking about getting some more CFLs to put in front of the cab

*Should I go 11/13 or stay 12/12 why would this help or hurt?*


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## midgaar (Feb 19, 2009)

Jmade said:


> went to check on them today and they seemed to be doing fine, drank up some water, the humidity was too low, but other than the fact that I need more lights everything seemed to be looking good.
> 
> I am thinking about getting some more CFLs to put in front of the cab
> 
> *Should I go 11/13 or stay 12/12 why would this help or hurt?*


Leave it on 12/12. Your plants are on auto pilot now just sit back and watch em grow. Change your res out every week or two and check the pH every couple days and you'll be fine. Don't feel the need to do something every time you check on your plants, this is the biggest rookie mistake, over caring for your plants. Leave the roots alone, leave the leaves alone, and maintain a pH of 5.2 - 6.2. You will see buds within a couple weeks.


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## Jmade (Feb 20, 2009)

midgaar said:


> Leave it on 12/12. Your plants are on auto pilot now just sit back and watch em grow. Change your res out every week or two and check the pH every couple days and you'll be fine. Don't feel the need to do something every time you check on your plants, this is the biggest rookie mistake, over caring for your plants. Leave the roots alone, leave the leaves alone, and maintain a pH of 5.2 - 6.2. You will see buds within a couple weeks.


Hey thanks a lot for the encouragement... this is my first grow, I am a rookie and you're right... I had plans on doing a few things when I was there yesterday, but decided not too, just to let them be.


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## emericakush714 (Feb 21, 2009)

Roseman said:


> A kit with 2 Light bulbs and 2 Clamp Reflectors, a tank, air pump and tubes, air stone, water pump and tubes, irrigation hub, 6 grow cups, Timer, Air stone, 6 month supply of premeasured pH balanced Nutrients, including VEG, BLOOM and MICRO nutes, a jar of pH UP, and a jar of pH Down, pH test strips kit, 6 rockwool cubes, pound of hydroton rocks, and 2 3-way extension cords, is $189.
> 
> The bubbles are used in two ways, one, there is an air stone IN the water, giving oxygen to the roots, and there is an under water pump, pumping oxygen enriched nutes and water to each plant's root base, thus the name BUBBLEPONICS.
> 
> IT IS SO QUIET, YOU COULD LAY DOWN BESIDE IT AND GO TO SLEEP. It can not be heard a few feet away.



I know this probrably a dumbass question but how does it not "overwater" the plant?


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## Roseman (Feb 21, 2009)

emericakush714 said:


> I know this probrably a dumbass question but how does it not "overwater" the plant?


 
Some people LAUGH at the mention of over-watering, in HYDRO, but it is a fact in DWC and in a DRIP system too. When just water is delivered to the cube or root base, you can drown a plant.
This SYSTEM has two things going for it.

An air stone (or two) in the bottom of the tank, powered with a small cheap aquarium air pump, bubbling like crazy, adding oxygen to the water. The water is rich in Air or Oxygen. The pump lasts for many years.
a 2nd WATER Pump, in the water, pumping BUBBLES, actually a mix of AIR and wATER and NUTES, to an Irrigation Hub, where more air and water are mixed, and through a tube, to each cube and root base. It is not a STREAM of water, but a Bubbley mix of air, water and nutes.
Thier ad says Bubbleponics is:







Bubbleponics is the art of delivering highly oxygenated nutrient solution DIRECTLY to the inner root zone. The days of merely misting the outer roots with nutrient spray are over. Gone too are the days of over/under watering, over/under feeding; the Stealth Hydro bubbleponic system automatically maintains the ideal oxygen level of the nutrient solution so as to facilitate a healthy thriving root system.


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## Roseman (Feb 21, 2009)

AND the rapid growth is unbelievable until you see it. More than an inch a day in growth in height.


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## emericakush714 (Feb 21, 2009)

Roseman said:


> AND the rapid growth is unbelievable until you see it. More than an inch a day in growth in height.


Yeah i beleive it, ive been following this thread and this guys stems are on like steroids! I understand though now, because over watering suffocates the plants right? but this provides fresh oxygen into the roots making it strong as all hell!


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## emericakush714 (Feb 21, 2009)

This kit looks so cheap and easy because it gives you everything you need to start! cubes lights nutes fin everything for 2 bills?


can you point me to other succeful grows with this system?


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## Roseman (Feb 22, 2009)

emericakush714 said:


> This kit looks so cheap and easy because it gives you everything you need to start! cubes lights nutes fin everything for 2 bills?
> 
> 
> can you point me to other succeful grows with this system?


Here is a thread just for and only for growers with this system, come visit us:


https://www.rollitup.org/dwc-bubbleponics/7897-stealth-hydro-bubbleponics-systems-305.html

pics on that page and all over the thread


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## emericakush714 (Feb 23, 2009)

Hell yeah man that the kind of shit im talking about. I have a small closet, if i had to take a guess id say its 3 feet deep 8 feet high and maybe 8-10 feet wide.

I want to get the multi spectrum CFL setup but i noticed the hps system is about the same price. Which one do you find to work best for a relatively small space?

Also, JMade, how are your babies doing im curious...


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## Jmade (Feb 23, 2009)

I visited the Ladies yesterday - 

I decided to get a couple more lights to see what impact they would have. during this process I had an awesome idea to turn an old flexible light lamp I had into my light setup, as I was adding the lights I needed more control in my tight space. In this process I managed to drop and bust one of the CFLs that came with the kit, the and it was the Red light. I ended up replacing it with two more 150s it was a 300W I couldn't seem to find anything about a $150 in the hardware stores around here my questions is:

*Do I need to get another light from SH? (or will I be ok with the ones I have now?)*

also I have noticed the way I have my bubble discs have impacted the plants, I have rotated them to see what happened when they are placed under different lighting and have different Oxygen flow, it has made a Major difference in the size of the leaves

I did some trimming a while back and I cut the middle a little too much on a couple of the plants, 

*Is this ok? Did I botch something? *

It seems as if the light hasn't gotten into the tops to let them re grow because the sides have bushed out and "taken over" 

(sorry if these are super NOOB Qs, I've never grown anything before)

Thanks for looking... I'll keep you posted


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## Roseman (Feb 23, 2009)

emericakush714 said:


> Hell yeah man that the kind of shit im talking about. I have a small closet, if i had to take a guess id say its 3 feet deep 8 feet high and maybe 8-10 feet wide.
> 
> I want to get the multi spectrum CFL setup but i noticed the hps system is about the same price. Which one do you find to work best for a relatively small space?
> 
> Also, JMade, how are your babies doing im curious...


Consider the fact taht CFLs make NO Heat, and all HID lights need to be Vented with a Fan, to pull out the HEAT.

I use the CFLs..


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## Roseman (Feb 23, 2009)

Jmade said:


> I visited the Ladies yesterday -
> 
> I decided to get a couple more lights to see what impact they would have. during this process I had an awesome idea to turn an old flexible light lamp I had into my light setup, as I was adding the lights I needed more control in my tight space. In this process I managed to drop and bust one of the CFLs that came with the kit, the and it was the Red light. I ended up replacing it with two more 150s it was a 300W I couldn't seem to find anything about a $150 in the hardware stores around here my questions is:
> 
> ...


I'll be watching your grow.


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## Jmade (Feb 26, 2009)

Got to check on the ladies and everything is going great! 

you can see in the pictures how much of an impact that having a good air flow and bubbles will have on the roots, one of my plants exploded in just a few days

I wish I had more money & room for side lights, they would greatly help the end result One of my back plants (the one with crazy root growth) has seemed to have one side almost wither away and another take over... it seems that there isn't enough light? 

the stems are starting to get a little sticky! and it smells Dank!

*What type of humidity levels should be optimal for both lights on and off periods?*
right now its around the 70 level... it has gotten up to 80% though...

*is this a SOG method? how could this have been executed better? *

*I have 2 more Bloom nute packs, do I need to order more? what should I do when I run out?*

I'm going to change the water this Sunday and then next.

Thanks for looking


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## Roseman (Feb 26, 2009)

Jmade said:


> Got to check on the ladies and everything is going great!
> 
> you can see in the pictures how much of an impact that having a good air flow and bubbles will have on the roots, one of my plants exploded in just a few days
> 
> ...


 

*Go to Walmart and get some BLOOM or FLOWERING FERTILIZER to finish them off. You want a 5:15:14 NPK for Flowering, or something close to that. First number, (Nitrogen) much smaller than the other two nubmers.*


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## 7uckytoker (Feb 26, 2009)

OH BOY IM SOOOO EXCITED lol i've been checking this grow every like few hours just to see new pics lol. i love it im going to buy one of these kits and my parents just kicked me out so now im ready to get a place and rock and roll. LOL is the bubble disc you have the stock one that comes with the kit or did you get extra's??? Thanks Great work


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## Roseman (Feb 26, 2009)

I always add a DUAL AIR PUMP from Walmart and an extra 12 inch stone, or two.


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## 7uckytoker (Feb 26, 2009)

Alright cool. So like roseman are you tutorialing Jmade through this whole grow or what? Cause that would be dope if you could help me with some Nutes and stuff i used to use straight water and pull a half oz off a 16"-22" plant??? Any good for straight water only.... from tap? and for this kit it has some recommended mixing carts have you seen them on the site and do you know if they are close to correct? Happyy Grows


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## Roseman (Feb 26, 2009)

I'm just trying to help anyone that asks.

Visit me here with questions:
https://www.rollitup.org/dwc-bubbleponics/7897-stealth-hydro-bubbleponics-systems-506.html


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## Jmade (Feb 26, 2009)

7uckytoker said:


> Alright cool. So like roseman are you tutorialing Jmade through this whole grow or what? Cause that would be dope if you could help me with some Nutes and stuff i used to use straight water and pull a half oz off a 16"-22" plant??? Any good for straight water only.... from tap? and for this kit it has some recommended mixing carts have you seen them on the site and do you know if they are close to correct? Happyy Grows


I read through Roseman and Purpdaddy guides, they inspired and helped me get started then once I was set and going, I started the thread and asked for guidance... its helped me more than I thought it could! and keeps on

*ALSO*

Roseman - do you have (2) air-pumps? I just split the line, but regulating that flow has been challenging... i also just 'anchored" that original air disk down with a couple sinkers, but it still seems hard to keep positioned

should i just get 2 different bubble discs, and 2 separate air pumps? 

or 1 awesome muli-airpump to run the entire thing?


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## Roseman (Feb 26, 2009)

Jmade said:


> I read through Roseman and Purpdaddy guides, they inspired and helped me get started then once I was set and going, I started the thread and asked for guidance... its helped me more than I thought it could! and keeps on
> 
> *ALSO*
> 
> ...


 






I use this DUAL air pump with my tanks, and two 12 inch long stones from Walmart. The pump is about $10 at Walmart and supports two stones. I anchor the stones with fishing weights. 
I use my old 4 inch round stone in a 5 gallon bucket I made.
You're supposed to anchor the airstone by running the tube under the water pump that is anchored with suction cups to the bottom.


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## Jmade (Mar 2, 2009)

I went to go look at the ladies and to change the water, and.. boy have they grown, they drank up about a gallon of water maybe even more.

*Should I expect them to stop growing? *

*When should I start seeing signs of budding and what might those very beginning signs be?*

they have gotten quite larger than we had expected, how can you control that? by lighting? 

I'm thinking that here within a week or so we should start seeing a change of somesort

*After the plants have budded, do I just cut off the stems and then switch to grow with 24/7 lighting again? will that work or are they done for after the harvest?*

*These are 4 Female PPP plants*


Thanks for looking 

I'll keep things updated


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## Roseman (Mar 2, 2009)

Jmade said:


> I went to go look at the ladies and to change the water, and.. boy have they grown, they drank up about a gallon of water maybe even more.
> 
> *Should I expect them to stop growing? An INDICA will never get over 5 feet tall, and they average 36 to 42 inches in height, from seed to Harvest. Sativas NEVER quit growing.*
> 
> ...


A lot of of your questions through this thread lead me to believe you have not done as much reading and studying as you might wnat to do. Being a successful grower requires a lot of knowledge. Have you bought any Pot Growing Books?


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## Roseman (Mar 2, 2009)

I am adding another pic to the collection.*Male Female pics* 
permalink












*[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]hermaphrodite[/FONT]*









FULL MALE:








Start of male:



FEMALE:



MALE:







Male preflowers :




Female:


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## x420xTeXaN (Mar 2, 2009)

nice pics. should help him out a lot...


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## Jmade (Mar 3, 2009)

I cannot express my thanks enough Roseman! you're absolutely right, I don't have any books, but i am ordering 5! Unfortunately I have been under a ton of stress and along with other obligations haven't left me with much time as I thought. I was hoping to learn as i go, but I've already seen how thats effected it so far, the good news is I have learned an incredible amount and am looking forward to round 2 and 3 and 4!


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## Roseman (Mar 3, 2009)

Jmade, you've come a long way to becoming a well respected and experienced grower.


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## Jmade (Mar 9, 2009)

I got to spend a little more time with the girls

everything seems to be going good... I've added Mylar around the cab walls, a couple emergency blankets from Wal-mart, I also upgraded to a dual air pump with two bubble air stones. I wrapped some extra tubing through the bottoms of the stones to help anchor them it seems to be working fine, 

and I also believe we have pre-flowering signs!!!!

I am looking forward to the next visit.

*With them being larger now, and drinking more water, is there a higher chance of the ph level being off?*

usually we've had no problems, I've been using distilled water with the SH nutes and they usually take control, but I wasn't sure if since they have gotten bigger if they have a higher chance off off setting the levels? 

I have about 6 books on the way, and I've managed to get my hands on a couple grow vids from Jorge Cervantes!!!

Thanks for checking up on things,


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## Roseman (Mar 9, 2009)

*Awesome Grow!!!!*


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## Jmade (Mar 15, 2009)

I got a chance to swing by real quick yesterday and check on the ladies, and we got burned...

*What should I do?*

Should I cut the burnt leaves off the plant, or leave them alone? 

I'm gonna change out the water today and I'll post more pictures later

thanks

their flowers are starting to look nice!


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## Jmade (Mar 18, 2009)

A green St. Patty's I hope it was for everyone!

I changed the water out on Sunday, one plants roots looked kinda funky, and it didn't quite smell right either... I'm gonna check back again soon to make sure everything is okay.

I only have one plant that will have a top, or main cola... I cut the others then the centers never received light enough to do much more... I butchered them... luckily the sides have seemed to keep up!

I'm getting nice looking Pre-flowers!

I also have picked up a copy of the Growers Bible by Jorge Cervantes & Grow great Marijuana by Logan Edwards

I have learned so much and know how this grow could have been so much better! but it looks like as long as we keep things going we will be rewarded.

Tons of Ideas for next time!

Thanks for checking it out


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## figaz (Mar 23, 2009)

wat nute u using and how u get ya roots white


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## Jmade (Mar 25, 2009)

figaz said:


> wat nute u using and how u get ya roots white


I'm using the Stealth Hydro Nutes that came with the kit:

http://www.StealthHydroponics.com/product.php?xProd=2&xSec=2

The Nutes are here:

http://www.StealthHydroponics.com/product.php?xProd=4&xSec=20

The kit is amazing! thanks for looking


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## Jmade (Mar 25, 2009)

Changed the reservoir, the roots have taken more of a darker color to them than the bright white. I'm not sure if this early signs of Root disease or ?

I also put in a fan at the bottom of the cab on top of the tank, its a Zippi from Vornado, with nylon fan blades. I set it on low and you could see the leaves on top shaking. 

These ladies are drinking water too! almost 2 and 1/2 gallons since the last res change.

Thanks for checking it out!


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## purpdaddy (Mar 29, 2009)

hey J. a lil pointer. the feeding tubes can be taken out once the roots touch water because roots will start growing into the tubes clogging them up and it is a mess.But you decide that at ur own descretion.I suggest you do sum research on "TOPPING"
What week are u in flower?
First DWC grow? Lookin good man good job!


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## purpdaddy (Mar 29, 2009)

figaz said:


> wat nute u using and how u get ya roots white


 Roots are supposed to be white!Discoloration of the roots is from the nutes or a beginning of root rot!


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## purpdaddy (Mar 29, 2009)

if u want a second harvest from ur plants: 
When you harvest your plants for the first time, remove only about 1/2 to 1/3 of the very top buds. Leave the little bottom buds and small leaves. Throw the plant back into a vegetative state atmosphere i.e. change light timers and nutes. Pay attention and make sure the regenerating plants have enough nitrogen. This should ensure not too many of the remaining leaves will fall off. You should see new leaf growth in about 7 to 14 days. You'll notice the buds getting fatter and maybe adding more crystal to themselves. Allow the plant to grow at least a little bit before you go after those nice new phat buds on the bottom. Some friends have experimented with cloning at this point. It's pretty cool watching a bud get cloned and start to grow again. You can grow your new 2nd generation marijuana plant outside or inside, your choice. It seems 30 days is the going norm for growers to re-harvest. If you are into time schedules for new clones or seedlings and mature buds for harvest, this technique can fill any time gaps waiting for buds to mature.


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## Jmade (Apr 4, 2009)

thanks Purpdaddy, I took the tubes out and it makes a ton os sense, and helps alot on maintenance. 

I realized a while ago how much more I should have topped but didn't. but there will be next time! I also read about topping while into flowering is not advised

We took the tank out of the closet! I'm going back to put up better reflectors, and hopefully some more powerful lights.

We switched Lights and Nutes 8 Weeks ago Today

I'll post more pics soon


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## Roseman (Apr 4, 2009)

Looks like you're on top of things, to me! Good GROW!

I wish you had some SIDE-LIGHTS.

It is OK to remove an UNhealthy leaf, but it is not wise to remove aHelathy leaf, or branch, or top, unless you are TOPPING babies.


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## Jmade (Apr 5, 2009)

Swung by real quick to check up, the roots look more white than I thought, they should be in good shape, I'm going to change out the res on monday and set up something to help them stay up, they are pretty weak. the flowers are looking very nice!

Question out to everyone: 

I'm trying to get ahold of something like Granddaddy Purp. I've heard several things that its a mix with purple haze or purple urkle, I am also looking to buy some Purps seeds and attempt at producing a Mother... Any ideas to know for sure what I should be looking for or ? Thanks for any help 

I'll post back after I set things up on monday


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## Jmade (Apr 7, 2009)

Went to Lowes and Picked up this awesome Insulation, Hung it up in the room, got some nice reflective tape, I also used some Neodymium Magnets to mount the air tubes on the side of the tub, then hooked up the original Bubble set up that came with the kit to add some extra bubbles. At this point I have 2 plants [on the left side] that are looking great, but the 2 plants on the right side look a few weeks behind. I have used coated wire mounted to the walls to help stabilize and support the plant in hopes that they will be able to develop and grow. I also ordered 2 65 Watt CFLs for flowering, I'll switch a couple out on top then move the 2 for some side lights.

Thanks for checking it out.


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## Lt Shiny Sides (Apr 7, 2009)

Those are the healthiest roots I have EVER seen! I think you will be fine once you add the side lighting. Awesome job!


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## Jmade (Apr 7, 2009)

Thanks Lt Shiny Sides, I was freaking out, and did earlier and trimmed them thinking they were infected. but then realized it was just the nutes adding to the decolorization. I've changed the res just about every week, and used distilled water. haven't had very many problems.


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## Roseman (Apr 8, 2009)

Jmade said:


> Changed the reservoir, the roots have taken more of a darker color to them than the bright white. I'm not sure if this early signs of Root disease or ?
> 
> I also put in a fan at the bottom of the cab on top of the tank, its a Zippi from Vornado, with nylon fan blades. I set it on low and you could see the leaves on top shaking.
> 
> ...


 
Jmade,

Mature roots darken near the tops naturally. Root Rot stinks,and they darken at the ends. Check for an ODOR, and see if they stink. 

Everyone replinishes the water that they drink DAILY, normally a half gallon to a gallon daily, after 4 to 6 weeks with a fractional part of nutes added..


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## Roseman (Apr 8, 2009)

Jmade said:


> Went to Lowes and Picked up this awesome Insulation, Hung it up in the room, got some nice reflective tape, I also used some Neodymium Magnets to mount the air tubes on the side of the tub, then hooked up the original Bubble set up that came with the kit to add some extra bubbles. At this point I have 2 plants [on the left side] that are looking great, but the 2 plants on the right side look a few weeks behind. I have used coated wire mounted to the walls to help stabilize and support the plant in hopes that they will be able to develop and grow. I also ordered 2 65 Watt CFLs for flowering, I'll switch a couple out on top then move the 2 for some side lights.
> 
> Thanks for checking it out.


Everytime you take a pic of the roots, you expose them to LIGHT...........a NO NO. Do not let the LIGHT shine on the roots.


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## Jmade (Apr 9, 2009)

The 2 Flowering bulbs from Stealth Hydro yesterday! I put them in and they kick ass! 85-Watt super bright, it looks like the reflective siding I put up in just 2 days have significantly helped the right 2 plants! things are looking pretty good!

its seems that the 2 on the left might be ready before the 2 on the right. 

I'll need a lighted scope to know for sure. but am awaiting to see what will happen with the better coverage of lights!


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## Black SS (Apr 9, 2009)

*Great looking plants for your first grow... I'm just starting to get my supplies together to start my first grow, still have to decide on which type of of setup i'm going to have for veg, drip or bubble but the way your system is turning out i think you made my mind up for me. thanks again for sharing ~ Black SS*


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## auto1986 (Apr 9, 2009)

Looks good man, Those lights on the side should help out with the dark spots in the plants, help the buds grow larger. subscribing can't wait to see the end product they look nice and tasty, you and your dad are gonna have some good smoke


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## Jmade (Apr 13, 2009)

This past saturday put us @ 9 weeks Flowering, Nirvana's Site (where i got the seeds from) said Flowering would take 12 weeks... 

I'm not sure quite what to do, continue the flowering process until 12 weeks? I also found sites stating that the flowering period on this strain is around the 8 to 9 weeks. keep adding nutes, or just plain water? I also didn't know If I should attempt to Reveg these ladies? or if It might be too much work with the set up.

thanks for taking a look

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


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## Lt Shiny Sides (Apr 13, 2009)

Lookin' good. they're not ready to harvest yet, though. you need to get some kind of magnifying glass, 30x works well, to look at the resin glands. when they start to turn milky you should just give plain water for a week or two.


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## Roseman (Apr 13, 2009)

Jmade said:


> This past saturday put us @ 9 weeks Flowering, Nirvana's Site (where i got the seeds from) said Flowering would take 12 weeks...
> 
> 12 weeks in SOIL, or HYDRO? Most Indica only Flowers in Hydro for 8 or 9 weeks.
> 
> ...


 12 weeks in SOIL, or HYDRO? Most Indica only Flowers in Hydro for 8 or 9 weeks.


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## Roseman (Apr 13, 2009)

*Trichome 101* 
Harvesting is, without a doubt, the most exciting part of the wonderful journey that is cannabis cultivation. After months of watching, waiting and tending to your plants&#8217; every need, the time is approaching when you must cut them down to harvest their resin-coated buds and all of the leftover trim that can be used to make fresh potent hash.

You know that you need to harvest your plants in the coming weeks, but when exactly is the best time to do it? Every strain of marijuana has its own life cycle, so it&#8217;s not as simple as a specific number of weeks after flowering has begun. It&#8217;s even more complicated since you can choose when to harvest your crop for bud that provides either a head high or a body stone. Luckily, most if not all strains of commercially grown cannabis provide visual clues on when to harvest, and what type of high you are likely to achieve.





In this article, we&#8217;re going to explore the final phase of your plants&#8217; growth cycle: the flowering or budding phase. Specifically, we want to look at the last two weeks of the flowering phase in what is known as the &#8220;window of peak maturity&#8221;. The window of peak maturity is when trichome development and the level of THC production in your plants have reached their maximum point, which is when you would harvest your plants. By being patient and paying close attention to certain indicators, you can reap fantastic buds that provide you with precisely the type of high that suits you best.

THC and Trichomes
Almost everyone who enjoys marijuana knows that, for whatever reason, THC is the psychoactive component in the bud they ingest.

As a cannabis cultivator, it helps to know just a little bit more than what THC is&#8212;such as how it develops over time and how chemical changes in trichomes contribute to different psychoactive effects.





The primary goal of any plant is to create and nurture seeds to be viable for future growth. Trichomes help prevent seed damage from insects, animals, light degradation and fungal disease. In the case of cannabis, trichomes also contain THC, the chemical compound that provides a psychedelic high to humans. THC stands for Tetrahydrocannabinol (C21H30O2). Near the end of the flowering cycle, THC begins to break down and turns into another chemical compound called Cannabinol, or CBN (C21H26O2), in a process known as oxidization. Higher levels of CBN tend to provide a more narcotic or &#8220;stoned&#8221; feeling, while THC delivers a more euphoric, upbeat &#8220;high&#8221;. Knowing this, you can examine the trichomes and the pistils of the plant, then choose when you harvest to get the psychoactive effects you desire.





Cannabis plants produce THC and CBN on their stems, leaves, and vegetation surrounding the buds and are developed in trichomes, which emerge on the surface of most of the plant&#8217;s parts. On the stems and the early fan leaves, the trichomes are small and hug the surface. As the flowering phase continues, the glands develop on the more mature parts of the plant, including the smaller leaves and the first calyxes (which exist to develop and nurture seeds if male pollen fertilizes the female plant). The trichomes that develop on calyxes no longer hug the plant&#8217;s surface, but are on stalks like mushrooms with bulbous caps. During this time, more and more trichome-covered calyxes develop and create densely packed clusters, called &#8216;bud&#8217;. As your plants enter the final stages of their life cycle, the calyxes begin to swell and ripen, while more and more resin glands develop on the surface.





Another indication of plant maturity is the color of the pistils, the little hairs that grow from inside the calyxes. Their purpose is to collect male pollen to fertilize the ovum inside the calyx, creating a seed. When no male pollen exists calyxes grow dense without any seeds, resulting in sinsemilla cannabis. Near the end of the flowering phase, pistils change color, entering the window of peak maturity. The ratio of white pistils to red pistils determines the type of effects your plants are likely to produce: a high or stone. In the final few weeks of the flowering phase, the pistils change from bright white to a rusty orange or brown, signifying the end of the plant&#8217;s life cycle.

Examining Trichomes





As the amount of trichomes covering your plant increases, you should take a closer look at them, maintaining a light touch to avoid crushing the resin glands. Your best bet is to purchase an inexpensive 25x microscope (available at most electronics stores), and most pocket microscopes have a small light to help you get an illuminated peek at your trichome development.

When you cut small buds from your plant to test them, you want to concentrate on the stalked glandular trichomes. The coloration of the gland heads can vary with different strains and maturity, but most start with clear or slightly amber heads that gradually become cloudy or opaque when THC levels have peaked and are beginning to degrade. Regardless of the initial color of the trichomes, with careful observation you should be able to see a change in coloration as maturity levels off. Some cultivators wait for about half of the trichomes to go opaque before harvesting to ensure maximum THC levels in the finished product. However, you will also want to try samples at various stages to see what is best for you. While you may be increasing the total THC level in the cannabis by allowing half of the glands to go opaque, there will also be a larger percentage of CBN, which is why some people choose to harvest earlier while most of the trichomes are still clear.

Now you understand how trichomes develop on your plants and how to examine them as they turn from clear to opaque, indicating THC breakdown.





Early and Late Harvesting

Every strain has its own unique window of peak maturity, typically one to two weeks long. However, there is a difference between har vesting early or late within that window, depending on whether you want a head high or a body high.

As cannabis matures the chemistry of the plant changes, as does the type of effects. While these differences in chemical nature still require a lot of research to fully understand, you can utilize them to produce different types of highs for different needs.

By harvesting earlier in the window your buds tend to produce more of a cerebral head high, an effect much more pronounced in Sativas than Indicas. A head high is more psychedelic in nature, providing you with a pleasant mental &#8220;up&#8221; state, often ideally suited for social situations when you still need to have your wits and plenty of energy.

If you choose to harvest later in the window, your buds produce more of a body high, which is conversely more pronounced in Indicas than in Sativas. A body high is similar to a narcotic &#8220;down&#8221; effect, usually associated with being &#8220;stoned&#8221;. A down type of high is often desired in the late evening to calm nerves and drift into sleep. A late-harvest yield is often sought by medicinal cannabis users to ease pain and increase appetite. If you choose to harvest somewhere in the middle of the peak window of maturity, you don&#8217;t necessarily get the best of both worlds, but more of a happy medium. If you aren&#8217;t sure what type of high you like or want, aim for the middle and you likely won&#8217;t be disappointed.

As you continue to examine your plants, you will be tempted, even compelled, to start pulling buds off of your plants to test them out. There is a right way and a wrong way to try out your buds before they are ready, so let&#8217;s take a look at your options.

Testing Your Buds

Most new growers start picking at their crop only a few weeks after budding starts. Usually this is because inexperienced growers get too excited and they don&#8217;t know that these small, immature buds still have a way to go before they hit peak maturity and reach the highest trichome development. But there is definitely nothing wrong with being excited about your ladies! Even veteran growers still get giddy seeing their plants start to sag under the weight of so much resin.

I don&#8217;t recommend taking any buds from your plants until they are approaching their window of harvest, and you should only take a small bud every day or two. You can test your first bud when approximately 10% of the pistils have turned reddishbrown; take it from the middle area of the plant. Once you&#8217;ve cut your self a small bud to try out, you need to dry it, but drying and curing traditionally takes longer than the entire window of peak maturity, so you have to quick dry it. Quick drying is a sub-optimal way to turn a lush, wet bud into something you can smoke, but it&#8217;s the best way to quickly test your bud every other day as it matures.





There are lots of different ways to quick dry your bud, but one of the best ways is to use your lighting ballasts in the grow room. First, cut up your fresh bud and spread it out evenly in an envelope. Close the envelope and place it on top of your ballast, then leave it there for two to three hours while the light is on. After the buds are dried out, put them in an airtight container and allow the last of the moisture to move from the stem into the bud. Considering this is a quick dry method, the taste is usually good and the potency is acceptable. Also, the use of a vaporizer will allow you to concentrate on your high rather than being distracted by the odd taste of quick-dried weed smoke.

By now you know what trichomes are and how the chemicals in them evolve from producing a head high to a body high over a couple of weeks. You also know that the pistils on your buds change color from white to reddish-brown as the window of harvest opens and closes, as well as what type of high to expect depending on the percentage of new and mature pistils. Throughout the window of harvest, you took small buds from the middle of the plant, quick dried them, then tested them out to determine the type of high you want your crop to give you. Now, you can harvest your plants with confidence in knowing that they will be loaded with resin that produces just the right kind of high you were looking for. Enjoy your harvest!


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## Roseman (Apr 13, 2009)

Save your money over an expensive microscope and and get a eye loop they use for looking at 35mm slides for cheap






*or get a jeweler's loop or at Radio Shack for $13 :*




TRICHOME HARVEST CHART









of couse someone that likes to argue, will argue with this post.

YOU CAN GO BY A CALENDER, AND IT WILL BE BETWEEN 8 AND 9 WEEKS FOR MOST INDICA.
You can buy a $13 lighted battery operated 10X microscope at Radio Shack to examine the trichs. 
You can wait until all the hairs are reddish or browish or dark beer colored.

again, all the above are rules of thumb and many will argue this, but until you've done a few grows and learn any better, this is good advise.


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## purpdaddy (Apr 13, 2009)

Roseman said:


> Save your money over an expensive microscope and and get a eye loop they use for looking at 35mm slides for cheap
> 
> 
> 
> ...


great info man,This is the truth and there is no arguing this fact.It is what it is,!


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## Jmade (Apr 14, 2009)

You guys are Amazing! 

I cannot thank you for all your help through this (my first) grow. all your information as been Rock solid and worked great for me!

I'll post some more pics here soon...


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## chadwickca (Apr 15, 2009)

Awesome grow, I've subscribed! and roseman, you inspired me to go with stealth hydro about 4-5 months ago. I appreciate all the help and care you have for all our grows. I cannot say enough about all the stupid mistakes I've avoided y researching and reading your posts!!

so, is there a percentage of hairs that turn brown before you flush? 

also, do you look on the larger buds for the indication or the smaller ones?

I'm on my first grow, 6 weeks into flowering, with bubbleponics, and maybe 5% of the hairs on the smaller buds are brown. should I flush soon?


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## Roseman (Apr 15, 2009)

chadwickca said:


> Awesome grow, I've subscribed! and roseman, you inspired me to go with stealth hydro about 4-5 months ago. I appreciate all the help and care you have for all our grows. I cannot say enough about all the stupid mistakes I've avoided y researching and reading your posts!!
> 
> 
> Read the Mistakes I made:
> ...


 
INDICA (if not an auto flowering strain) always is ready to harvest at 8 to 9 weeks of 12/12, or flowering.
Sativa takes 10 to 16 weeks, depending on the strain. 

Look at my PICs here:

My PICS


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## chadwickca (Apr 17, 2009)

Roseman, as always, I am impressed with your yeilds and plants. 

I am, however, intrigued by the fact that you don't flush. do you notice any significant increase in yeild or decrease in smokability?

I have contemplated not flushing, but haven't found any posts regarding the outcome.


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## Jmade (Apr 17, 2009)

There are looking incredible!

I am thinking I'll probably harvest on Sunday

the 2 plants on the right side might not be as ready, or some of the lower buds

*Can I just take the top buds? Do i need to do anything differently with the nutes or lights?*

It seems as if the other ones might just be a few days to a week behind. but I am not sure if you could just take them as they are ready or all at once?


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## Roseman (Apr 20, 2009)

chadwickca said:


> Roseman, as always, I am impressed with your yeilds and plants.
> 
> I am, however, intrigued by the fact that you don't flush. do you notice any significant increase in yeild or decrease in smokability?
> 
> I have contemplated not flushing, but haven't found any posts regarding the outcome.


Every book I own (14 books)says to flush before harvesting. I did it first 4 times, and I did not do it the last 3 times and I could tell no difference in the taste.
What I did notice is an extra week of GROWING the Buds by still feeding them.

I could be all wrong, since I go against all rules and tradition.


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## Roseman (Apr 20, 2009)

Jmade said:


> There are looking incredible!
> 
> I am thinking I'll probably harvest on Sunday
> 
> ...


You can harvest jsut the upper third of the plant, or 2/3s, and wait a week or two for the remaining plant. It is much more hassle and trouble and work, but you can do it.


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## LordCody (May 6, 2009)

nice man i like that setup...i dont have a pic of my grow room yet but i got a pic of what in my closet,.. a mini bubbleponics system i just want to grow in my room for like a for fun plant
hahha i have a cover for it i just wanted to show the whole thing lol tell me what u think! i know i need more airstoes...a bunch more


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## Roseman (May 6, 2009)

Jmade said:


> You guys are Amazing!
> 
> I cannot thank you for all your help through this (my first) grow. all your information as been Rock solid and worked great for me!
> 
> I'll post some more pics here soon...


we do appreciate the REP!!!


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## Roseman (May 6, 2009)

chadwickca said:


> Awesome grow, I've subscribed! and roseman, you inspired me to go with stealth hydro about 4-5 months ago. I appreciate all the help and care you have for all our grows. I cannot say enough about all the stupid mistakes I've avoided y researching and reading your posts!!
> 
> so, is there a percentage of hairs that turn brown before you flush?
> If you must harvest by the color the the hairs, go by 3/4 are colored..
> ...


 
I don't flush any now, and I do not see or tell any difference. I do admit almost all growers do flush before harvest, but I see no need in it..my grow still tastes excellent.
How long have they been in the BLOOM or Flowring cycle? Are they Indica?

do you need me to post my HARVESTING guide here?


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## purpdaddy (May 7, 2009)

post it man..id like to see it too..cause i got one more week after sunday,,,and then 12/12 baby!


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## Roseman (May 8, 2009)

*Harvesting and Curing*
Many hydro growers drain the tank and fill it with plain water, two days before harvest. Called Flushing. (I quit doing that, I just could not taste any difference.) Soil growers also FLUSH before harvesting. 
I cut the longest branches, put them on a tin-foiled covered tray, and go to my kitchen table. I try to catch any fallen trichomes on the tin foil. 
I have three boxes, one for the big FAN leaves. (for oil)
one box for the TRIM leaves, the leaves with trichomes on them, that I manicured off the buds, FOR HASH. I've manicured much more since I learned how to make HASH. I want some naked STEM at the end of the buds to fasten my tape to, so I can hang it in the drying box.
AND One Box for the smaller popcorn buds. (small buds with no stems)

I manicure them, and cut the leaves off. I manicure closely. IF you leave those leaves on, by the time the buds are dry, the leaves are crispy and harsh to smoke.
I string masking tape across the top of the box, making rows about 3 or 4 inches a part. I wrap a piece of masking tape, about 4 inches long, around the tip end of the stem, and hang it from the masking tape, in rows, not letting the buds touch each other. *VERY IMPORTANT.*

I separate the bigger buds from the smaller ones IN DIFFERENT BOXES.
I put the boxes in a dark room, NO DIRECT LIGHT, and blow a gentle oscillating fan across the top, but not on them.
The big buds take 7 days, the smaller ones 5 days. Popcron buds take 3 or 4 days. Some take 5 days.
If you dry them too much, you can add back moisture. If you do not dry them enough, you get rotten buds and mold.
Dry them til the end of the stem will SNAP when you break it, but not crispy dry.
Again, the big buds take 7 days to dry, under a small fan,the smaller ones 5 days.
Keep them in the dark with little light to see and inspect.
I never smoke them then, NEVER.
VERY IMPORTANTLY I then CURE them 30 days in wide mouth jars, opening the jar for ten seconds EVERYDAY , for 30 days. 
Every day, I sniff them, smell them, for any funky moldy smell. If they do not smell right, then dry them outside the jar another day or two. 
I've lost one jar, out of hundreds, the 30th day, it went bad, to Bud MOLD.

I can not emphasis the importance and difference if you properly MANICURE, Dry AND *Cure* them. 
CURING MAKES A BIG MAJOR DIFFERENCE.
*DO I HAVE TO Cure 30 days?* 
Definitely, I do know for sure, I tried smoking buds cured for a only a week, for two weeks, three weeks and 4 weeks. You should try it too, and you will find what I found. Buds cured 4 weeks not only taste better, they burn better and get you higher too. It has something to do with some scientific complicated SUGAR PROCESSING. or the sugars change . I am 100% sure, you will agree, if you test it like I did. *CURE FOR 30 DAYS!*

*DRYING? They say dry them til the stem will snap. Well, I get stems the thickness of fishing line and I get stems the thickness of a pencil, even bigger. That tells me that you can not DRY them ALL the same amount of time. So I sort mine, fatter stems from skinny stems. The skinny ones, I DRY for 5 or 6 days. The fat ones, I DRY for 7 to 8 days. IF YOU OVER DRY, YOU CAN REMOISTEN THEM. IF YOU DO NOT DRY THEM ENOUGH, THEY WILL ROT ! I dry mine in the open air, moving air, moved with an oscillating fan. A gentle breeze, in temps of what central air or central heat gives me, which is around 75 to 78 degrees and humidity of 30% to 40%. *
*AND YOU MUST DRY AND CURE THEM IN DARKNESS. LIGHT IS THE ENEMY WHEN DRYING AND CURING. I do DRY mine in a room with the shades pulled down, it is not very dARK, but it is not any direct LIGHT, just some leaking light. I read up on Drying and Curing in 4 books I bought, and the above is what they say.*

*Save the trim leaves for HASH, you'll be so glad you did.*


When I put my buds in Jars, I put them in the jar one bud at a time, feeling it, to see if it is VERY dry, overly dry, or NOT dry enough.

I also save several large pieces of the STEM, for later. When I check a jar, if I find a vERY dry bud, a bud too crispy and dry, I ad a short piece of fresh moist stem to the jar, for a half day, to re-moistion it.


Daily inspecting the jars, opening and smelling them, is of the upmost importantance.






Those pics are a mixture of my 2007 and 2008 crop. The 2007 crop, I did not trim close. I trimmed, but not close. I'd leave a half inch, to keep the scissors from getting glued together adn I was just lazy and in a hurry. I always got a lot of very dry, too dry, bud leaves, that smoked harsh. More times than not, I threw them away or gave them away. 

And then I got a KIEF Box with a screen, and I started trimming much closer. The 2008 pics, I trimmed close and everytime I opend a new jar, I went and trimmed them again, to make MORE hash. 

Now I reccomend trimming as much as possible and making hash, I never leave any leaf to go into the jar now. I pluck off what I can not trim off.

       
 

    

Buds without STEMS, I just spread out in a box, NOT LETTING THEM PILE UP OR TOUCH EACH OTHER. I stir them everyday.
Proper Harvest and DRYING and Curing are as IMPORTANT as GROWING. 
Attached Thumbnails     

    

    

Popcorn buds:











__________________


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## Smokiemacpot420 (Nov 2, 2009)

How much did you get from your ladys???


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## Roseman (Nov 3, 2009)

Smokiemacpot420 said:


> How much did you get from your ladys???


 
16 oz of dried manicured buds.............plus about 20 grams of hash..and 8 grams of oil.


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## Smokiemacpot420 (Nov 3, 2009)

I just Got this same kit


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## Roseman (Nov 3, 2009)

Smokiemacpot420 said:


> I just Got this same kit


I hope you read on how to get the 10% discount for BubbleHeads.


Roseman's DIY Bubbleponics Tutorial - Marijuana Growing


Questions about Bubbleponic Growing Thread


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## Smokiemacpot420 (Nov 3, 2009)

Nope did not know that i ended up paying $243 and some change...I added the Dual Spectrum II Lights...I found this place few hours after i ordered it


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## Smokiemacpot420 (Nov 3, 2009)

Can i grow sunflower seeds with it???


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## 6816 (Nov 4, 2009)

Great thread! I am thinking about growing for the first time. I was thinking about ordering this system. How do I go about getting the 10% discount? I have read and read, but can't seem to find it. Thanks in advance.


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## Roseman (Nov 4, 2009)

6816 said:


> Great thread! I am thinking about growing for the first time. I was thinking about ordering this system. How do I go about getting the 10% discount? I have read and read, but can't seem to find it. Thanks in advance.


for a Coupon, type in the word BubbleHeads.

You will need to join the club too and display the logo.


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## purpdaddy (Nov 4, 2009)

4 Strain BP grow Updated


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## stupidcracker00 (Nov 13, 2009)

Hey Roseman, did you get that 16 oz off of 2 plants??


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## Roseman (Nov 13, 2009)

stupidcracker00 said:


> Hey Roseman, did you get that 16 oz off of 2 plants??


no, it was off of 6, if I remember correctly.


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## Roseman (Nov 13, 2009)

where is Jmade?


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## GrowTech12 (Oct 29, 2010)

God Damn! Those stems are like trees... haha. No pun intended.


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