# How To Grow Magic Mushrooms



## Ganjaglutin (May 24, 2009)

Just Thought This Might Help Some First Timers.


*How To Grow Magic Mushrooms*



*Psilocybe cubensis Growing Technique*

*This method* is directed for people who have never grown magic mushrooms before because it is a very reliable way to grow magic mushrooms.

The first time you use the process you should follow the directions exactly and resist the temptation to innovate. Innovation without experience is the primary cause of failure. 

If you must innovate because you can not find a particular item or for some other reason, first check with someone that has experience to make sure you are not doing something crazy. 

If you have tried this method but still can't produce a crop of magic mushrooms, there is an easier method but it will not produce as large a crop.

*A quick description of the procedure* 

A substrate consisting of brown rice flour, vermiculite, and water that will feed and supply water to our magic mushrooms is sealed in ½ pint jars and sterilized in a pressure cooker, or boiling water. This is to kill anything that might endanger the mushrooms. 

After the mushroom substrate has been sterilized and has cooled, mushroom spores are added to the substrate using a syringe full of spore solution. The spores germinate and colonize the entire jar full of substrate. 

They are germinated at about 75-85 degrees F, in a dark place. The resulting 'cakes' are removed from the jars when fully colonized, and placed in a terrarium with temperatures between 75 and 80 degrees until mushrooms begin to grow from the cakes. 

*After mushrooms form*, they grow best at 80-90 degrees, with 90-95% humidity in a place that gets some light. When mature, they are harvested and dried. Magic mushrooms you produce yourself will probably be at least two to three times as potent as buying them from someone else. 

This is because your magic mushrooms will be fresh and they will have been grown under optimal conditions. Most mushrooms bought on the street are several months old, or older and have grown wild outdoors.


----------



## Ganjaglutin (May 24, 2009)

*Equipment* 

***** _Mixing Bowl_ 
Fairly large, plastic or metal mixing bowl for mixing up your substrate in. Something with a lid is best, so you can cover the contents of the bowl if necessary. Mixing Bowls can be purchased in the housewares section of most stores. 


***** _Mixing Spoon_ 
 A long, sturdy kitchen spoon for mixing up the substrate after it has been put in the mixing bowl. A plastic or metal spoon is preferable to a wooden spoon. Mixing Spoons can be purchased in the housewares section of most stores. 


***** _Measuring Cups_ 
 A set of measuring cups that includes 1/4 cup, 1/3 cup, 1/2 cup, and 1 cup sizes. These are for measuring out the amount of substrate ingredients. Measuring cups can be purchased in the housewares section of most stores. 



***** _Organic Brown Rice Flour_ 
The brown rice flour is food for the mushrooms, it must be organic (not have preservatives in it). That's why you should get brown rice or brown rice flour from a reliable source, most supermarket varieties are loaded with preservatives. Be sure the package says organic brown rice flour. ​Because it is organic with no preservatives, the brown rice will be open to insect and bacterial attack, especially if it is stored for any amount of time. Always store organic brown rice in a well sealed light proof plastic bag or container, and keep it in a dry cool area that is well sanitized. 

To make your own brown rice powder, place some regular organic brown rice in a coffee grinder and grind it to the same size as you would coffee. Homemade brown rice powder is as good as the brown rice flour you would buy, if you start with organic brown rice. 


***** _Vermiculite_ 
 Vermiculite is a soft, spongy volcanic gravel used in potting soil. It is sold in various sizes of particles, if possible use large size vermiculite (coarse grade is best), it will allow the cakes to colonize faster than small or medium vermiculite. 
A gallon sized bag of vermiculite is all that is needed to start with, it will last for several crops of mushroom. You will be able to purchase a gallon sized bag for under $30.00 at most hardware stores. If not, look in any of the well stocked garden centers in your area. 
Vermiculite is a alumino-silicate clay mineral that is mined and heated to expand the particles. It's sterile, soaks up 3-4 times its volume in water, and attracts nutrients such as calcium, magnesium, potassium, and phosphorous. Vermiculite itself provides no water or nutrients, but will retain the moisture and nutrients you add to the cakes. 


***** _Electric Drill or Hammer and Nail_ 
 For drilling holes in the metal jar lids a drill is best, but if no drill is available a hammer and nail will do. The drill bit or nail should be about 2 mm (3/32") thick. 


***** _1/2 Pint Tapered Wide Mouth Canning Jars_ 
Both 1/2 pint and 1 pint wide mouth canning jars are common. If possible, try to get the 1/2 pint (about 8 ounces or 250 ml) size canning jars, there are two reasons for doing so. First, the smaller jars will colonize faster (quicker harvest). 

Second, the directions for mixing the substrate (next section of this guide) that will go into the jars are written assuming that 1/2 pint jars are used. You can use 1 pint jars like these with no problem, but you will have to double the amount of material that would go into a 1/2 pint jar. ​The jars must be tapered (sides of the jar slant outward so that the top is widest part of the jar) so that the substrate cakes can easily drop out of the jar. You can sometimes find canning jars in grocery stores, hardware stores, or drug stores. They cost under $30.00 for a box of 12 jars. 



***** _Aluminum Foil_ 
Enough to make a 6" by 6" (15cm by 15cm) square for each jar. Available at all grocery stores. 


***** _Rubbing Alcohol_ 
Have some 50% (or higher) rubbing alcohol (also called isopropyl alcohol), or something similar for sterilization purposes. Available at all drug stores. 


***** _Pressure Cooker_ 
 Try to get one that is 4 quarts or larger, the larger the better. You can get 3-6 jars (1/2 pint) inside a 4 quart pressure cooker, depending on the shape of the jars and the pressure cooker. An eight quart will allow you to sterilize 8-12 jars (1/2 pint) at a time. 
Make absolutely sure that you know how to use it, and that all seals, valves, and safety plugs are in working order. For most people this is the most difficult item to obtain. New pressure cookers start at about $40.00 each, high quality models cost more but will last longer. Look in the housewares section of a department store. 
Pressure canners will allow you to work with a larger volume of jars, some of them even have built in racks, so a maximum number of jars can be sterilized in one session. But they are more expensive and can be difficult to find. Information is presented in this guide for steam sterilization so you can still get by without a pressure cooker or canner, if necessary. 


*Equipment For Inoculation* 

***** _Psilocybe cubensis Spores_ 
The first time magic mushroom grower should get a strain of Psilocybe cubensis that is easy to cultivate. As one gains growing experience, more exotic, harder to grow types can be tried. Psilocybe cubensis spores can be hard to find in the USA. If you know someone who grows mushrooms, ask them. 


***** _Pair Of Dishwashing Gloves




_ 
Preferably new and unused dishwashing gloves, they can be found in the housewares section of any department or grocery store. 

*Equipment For Fruiting And Harvesting* 


***** _Fruiting Chamber_ 
 Aquariums, camping coolers, and large plastic (rubbermaid) storage containers are examples of suitable fruiting chambers. 
When growing in a low light area where you will have to supply additional light, use something with a clear top for a fruiting chamber. If the chamber has a dark top, light will not be able to penetrate to the mushrooms below. 


***** _Perlite_ 
Perlite is a silicon-rich volcanic rock. It's mined and heated to expand the particles. It will soak up water. For our purposes, perlite is soaked with water, drained with a collander, and placed at the bottom of the fruiting chamber to raise and keep the humidity inside high. 
Most people prefer coarse because it is easier to work with but medium or fine perlite will do the job. If you only have vermiculate available, you can use it in place of perlite in the fruiting chamber. 


***** _Plastic Colander_ 
 A plastic colander is for draining water out of the perlite in the fruiting chamber. Plastic colanders are probably best for this purpose because aluminum will get scratched up. Suitable substitutes include a piece of screen or cloth, or anything that will hold perlite but let water drain out. 


***** _Dust Mask_ (optional) 
Perlite is puffed volcanic glass. When you work with perlite, it tends to be dusty, creating a cloud of glass dust that can be harmful to the lungs, especially if you are asthmatic or have any kind of breathing problem. 
Disposable dust masks can be found in hardware stores, often in the Paint section. They are very inexpensive. They can also be used to prevent breathing our germ filled air all over our your cakes and terrariums when working with them.


----------



## Ganjaglutin (May 24, 2009)

*Procedure* 
***** _Substrate Preparation_ 
Take the lids from the ½ pint jars and use the drill or hammer and nail to poke holes in them. One hole per lid is sufficient, however some people prefer to use 2 or 4 holes, so they can inoculate the cake in more than one spot. 
This has the advantage of faster colonization of the cake, since growth starts in several places. The disadvantage is that every time the syringe needle goes into the cake, there is a chance for contamination. So wipe the syringe with rubbing alcohol before inoculating every hole. 
Most guides suggest using 4 holes. Make sure that the holes are not too close to the edge of the lid. About 3/4" (2 cm) in from the edge is sufficient. _Holes In The Canning Lids_ 


***** _Mix Up The Substrate_ 
Using the appropriate quantities as outlined in the table below, mix the vermiculite and brown rice flour together in the mixing bowl, using the large spoon. Add the water and mix thoroughly. 
This will take some patience and will probably wear out your arm a bit. If you are concerned about the purity of the tap water in your area, you may want to used distilled water rather than tap water. 
In most cases, though, tap water is fine. The recipe below often comes out just a bit more than what you need for the jars. 
Simply discard any extra substrate. Don't try to pack it into the jars, because you want the substrate to be airy and fluffy for optimal growth. 


***** _The Amount Of Material For Each Jar Is_ 

Vermiculite --- 2/3 cup (5.25 ounces) 
Flour --- 1/4 cup (2 ounces) 
Water --- 1/4 cup (2 ounces) 
These amounts are for 1/2 pint (about 8 ounces or 250 ml) jars. Adjust the amounts accordingly if you use different size jars. For example if you doubled the size to 1 pint (about 16 ounces or 500 ml) jars, you would need double the amount of material for each jar. 


***** _Add Substrate To The Jars_ 
Using the mixing spoon, fill each jar to within ¾" (2 cm) of the top of the jar. It is very important that the substrate mix be open and airy, not packed into the jar. Dump it in, shake any excess back into the bowl, but don&#8217;t pack it down at all. Mycelium will grow best in all those little open spaces. 


***** _Seal The Jars_ 
Carefully wipe clean the exposed inner wall of the jar and the rim. Fill to the top with clean dry vermiculite, screw on the lid and band tightly, and cover the lid with a large square of aluminum foil, to prevent water droplets from entering. 
Optionally, breathable tape such as cloth surgical tape, can be placed over the holes. Your jar is sealed and ready for sterilization. 


***** _Sterilizing The Jars_ 
Place the finished jars in your pressure cooker or pressure canner, and cook them at 15psi for 45-60 minutes, according to the instructions for your pressure cooker/canner. Let the entire apparatus cool completely. 
Do not try to open the pressure cooker before it is cool to the touch, and do not try to speed the cooling process, as a quick change in temperature could crack the jars. 
Be sure to let the jars cool for several hours, because heat is often trapped in the center of the cake, even if the jar feels cool. This heat can kill your spores if you try to inoculate too soon after cooking. 
It&#8217;s best if you can let your jars cool overnight. The jars are now sealed containers of sterile substrate. If you have done everything correctly, they can be stored indefinitely until you are ready to use them. 


***** _Steam Sterilization_ 
I didn't have a pressure cooker or pressure canner the first time I grew magic mushrooms and I didn't want to spend money until I knew that my mushroom crop would be successful. So the steaming process was used for sterilization. 
Any pot with tight closing lid, which can hold sufficient jars is fine. You want a hot environment that will kill germs in the jar but not add or remove water from the jars you are sterilizing. 
In short, water is added to a pot, something is placed in the pot to raise the jars from touching the bottom and keep water from entering the jars. Jars are placed inside, and water is boiled for an hour or more. 
First, you will need something to keep the bottom of the jars from touching the bottom of the pot. A three-piece vegetable steamer (pot, basket insert and lid) will do. Stainless steel vegetable steamers that fold out and stand on the bottom of the pot can also be used. You can even use small rocks or marbles. Then place the jars on top. 
Add enough water to the bottom of the pot to cover about one half inch of the bottom of the jars. The layer of water on the bottom of the pan may touch the jars; care should be taken however to prevent boiling water from entering the jars. 
Cover the top of the jars with a piece of aluminum-foil and tighten it with a rubber band. This will help prevent any water from boiling up and entering the jars. The extra water would increase the moisture content too much. 
Gently steam the jars by boiling for an hour in a tightly covered pot. Keep the bottom of the pot filled with water by checking the water level and adding water as the steam evaporates. 
A good tight fitting pot lid is essential for successful steaming. Be careful not to overheat the jars, as the substrate will dry out. A gentle constant boil is what is needed. The jars can be inoculated as soon as their inside temperature has dropped below 35°C (95°F). 
I have had a 100% success rate using this method. I have also heard of people getting 100% contamination using this method. I think the difference is due to the fact of my taking a shower before working on all of the mixing and inoculation work. I then work while in the bathroom with just a clean towel on. 
I also clean the inside and outside the jars with rubbing alcohol after drilling the caps, then sealing them. 
I sterilize everything with rubbing alcohol before using anything that will come in contact with the inside or outside of the jars. That means tables, mixing bowls, measuring cups, hands, etc. The water that is added to the cakes is boiled and cooled before using. 
If you don't have access to a pressure cooker or canner, be extra sterile and you can have 100% clean cakes. 


*Inoculation* 
***** _Cleanliness Precautions_ 
Inoculating your jars is the main step where contamination is possible, and thus must be done in as clean of an environment as possible. If the room you&#8217;re working in is clean enough, you can get away with inoculating them in open air. 
The needle of the syringe, if not absolutely sterile, can carry bacteria and spores from other molds into your cake, contaminating and ruining the cake. Wash your hands and face with antibacterial soap. Wear clean clothes. Anything in the area of the syringe and jars could contaminate your cakes if it is not clean. 


***** _Glove Box_ (Optional) 
If you&#8217;re concerned about sterility, a good way to accomplish this is to make a 'glove box', an enclosed, semi-sealed box with holes for gloves to go through and a see-through top. 
A cheap, halfway decent one can be built for only a couple bucks worth of stuff. All you need is a large cardboard box, some tape and saran wrap to go over the top of the box, and a pair of new, unused dishwashing gloves. 
Tape saran wrap over the top and cut two holes big enough for your arms in the sides. Disinfect the gloves and the inside of the box with Lysol spray disinfectant. 
A small gate can be cut into the side of the box for getting the syringe and jars into the box, or they can be put through one of the arm holes (if you choose not to attach the gloves to the holes). 


***** _Oven Inoculation_: Cleanliness Simplified 
If you have an oven at your disposal, forget all about glove boxes and all that troublesome nonsense. The simplest, easiest way to assure cleanliness during inoculation is to do it on an oven rack. Turn your oven on at the lowest possible setting, and let it heat up. 
Once it's preheated, pull one of the racks out as far as it will go without falling out of the oven. (Use a rack near the bottom) Have your jars and spore syringe all nearby, ready to go. Place 3 or 4 jars at a time on the edge of the oven rack, and begin carefully inoculating them with the syringe. 
It's a good idea to have a lighter handy as well to sterilize the needle as you go. Flame the needle until it gets very hot, then carefully squirt a little bit of spore solution (if you can spare it) to cool down the needle before sticking it in the cake. Putting a hot needle into the cake will get burnt-on rice flour all over the needle. 


***** _Spore Injection_ 
Once you&#8217;re ready to inoculate, shake up the spore syringe to get as many spores as possible off the sides of the syringe and into the water. Carefully remove the cap over the syringe needle and slide the needle into one of the holes in the jar lid. 
Shove it all the way in, so that the needle goes into the cake itself. Gently squeeze out about 0.5 to 1.0 cc of spore solution into each jar, splitting up the amount if you inject through more than one hole. Some people suggest using an entire cc of solution per jar, however I have had great success with only 0.5cc each. 
Be careful that nothing but the jar and substrate touch the needle, and re-cap it immediately after using it to avoid contaminating the needle. Also be careful of using too much spore solution. 
With spore syringes it can be easy to accidentally push the plunger on the syringe too forcefully and dump out way too much solution. Once each jar is inoculated, it is ready for incubation. Put tape over the holes in the lid to keep out any contaminants. 


*Mycelial (Vegetative) Growth* 
***** _Incubation_ 
Now the jars are incubated at about 75-85 degrees F, in a dark place, for several weeks. If you have a room that is constantly kept in this general range, this is a good place to incubate your jars. 
If not, you will need to find some other source of heat to keep them in that temperature range. Be careful not to use any heat source that could cause fires; a heating pad will usually work, some people have used fish tank heaters submerged in a warm water bath. 
A good investment here is a thermometer that keeps track of highest and lowest temperatures, so you can see how hot or cold your cakes are getting. 
If they get too cold, their growth will slow considerably, and if they get too hot, they will lose water and eventually die. (They will usually die if they ever get above 95 degrees F) 


***** _Mycelial Growth_ 
The first signs of mycelial growth should appear within 5-7 days. If none appear within two weeks, something went wrong. (Perhaps the cake was not cooled completely before inoculation, and the heat killed the spores, or the spores simply did not make it into the cake). 
This type of mushroom mycelium will always be a brilliant white fuzz, often growing in ropy strands. This ropy type of growth is called rhizomorphic growth, and is a sign that the mycelium will probably fruit very well. 
Any other color of mold, including some less brilliantly white molds (cobweb mold, for example, is white but not so thick, and it does look a lot like cobwebs.), is a sign of contamination. A contaminated cake will not recover and, except in very rare instances, will never produce mushrooms. 
After colonization is complete it is time for fruiting the magic mushrooms.


----------



## Ganjaglutin (May 24, 2009)

*Procedure* 
***** _Substrate Preparation_ 
Take the lids from the ½ pint jars and use the drill or hammer and nail to poke holes in them. One hole per lid is sufficient, however some people prefer to use 2 or 4 holes, so they can inoculate the cake in more than one spot. 
This has the advantage of faster colonization of the cake, since growth starts in several places. The disadvantage is that every time the syringe needle goes into the cake, there is a chance for contamination. So wipe the syringe with rubbing alcohol before inoculating every hole. 
Most guides suggest using 4 holes. Make sure that the holes are not too close to the edge of the lid. About 3/4" (2 cm) in from the edge is sufficient.Holes in the canning lids.


***** _Mix Up The Substrate_ 
Using the appropriate quantities as outlined in the table below, mix the vermiculite and brown rice flour together in the mixing bowl, using the large spoon. Add the water and mix thoroughly. 
This will take some patience and will probably wear out your arm a bit. If you are concerned about the purity of the tap water in your area, you may want to used distilled water rather than tap water. 
In most cases, though, tap water is fine. The recipe below often comes out just a bit more than what you need for the jars. 
Simply discard any extra substrate. Don't try to pack it into the jars, because you want the substrate to be airy and fluffy for optimal growth. 


***** _The Amount Of Material For Each Jar Is_ 

Vermiculite --- 2/3 cup (5.25 ounces) 
Flour --- 1/4 cup (2 ounces) 
Water --- 1/4 cup (2 ounces) 
These amounts are for 1/2 pint (about 8 ounces or 250 ml) jars. Adjust the amounts accordingly if you use different size jars. For example if you doubled the size to 1 pint (about 16 ounces or 500 ml) jars, you would need double the amount of material for each jar. 


***** _Add Substrate To The Jars_ 
Using the mixing spoon, fill each jar to within ¾" (2 cm) of the top of the jar. It is very important that the substrate mix be open and airy, not packed into the jar. Dump it in, shake any excess back into the bowl, but dont pack it down at all. Mycelium will grow best in all those little open spaces. 


***** _Seal The Jars_ 
Carefully wipe clean the exposed inner wall of the jar and the rim. Fill to the top with clean dry vermiculite, screw on the lid and band tightly, and cover the lid with a large square of aluminum foil, to prevent water droplets from entering. 
Optionally, breathable tape such as cloth surgical tape, can be placed over the holes. Your jar is sealed and ready for sterilization. 


***** _Sterilizing The Jars_ 
Place the finished jars in your pressure cooker or pressure canner, and cook them at 15psi for 45-60 minutes, according to the instructions for your pressure cooker/canner. Let the entire apparatus cool completely. 
Do not try to open the pressure cooker before it is cool to the touch, and do not try to speed the cooling process, as a quick change in temperature could crack the jars. 
Be sure to let the jars cool for several hours, because heat is often trapped in the center of the cake, even if the jar feels cool. This heat can kill your spores if you try to inoculate too soon after cooking. 
Its best if you can let your jars cool overnight. The jars are now sealed containers of sterile substrate. If you have done everything correctly, they can be stored indefinitely until you are ready to use them. 


***** _Steam Sterilization_ 
I didn't have a pressure cooker or pressure canner the first time I grew magic mushrooms and I didn't want to spend money until I knew that my mushroom crop would be successful. So the steaming process was used for sterilization. 
Any pot with tight closing lid, which can hold sufficient jars is fine. You want a hot environment that will kill germs in the jar but not add or remove water from the jars you are sterilizing. 
In short, water is added to a pot, something is placed in the pot to raise the jars from touching the bottom and keep water from entering the jars. Jars are placed inside, and water is boiled for an hour or more. 
First, you will need something to keep the bottom of the jars from touching the bottom of the pot. A three-piece vegetable steamer (pot, basket insert and lid) will do. Stainless steel vegetable steamers that fold out and stand on the bottom of the pot can also be used. You can even use small rocks or marbles. Then place the jars on top. 
Add enough water to the bottom of the pot to cover about one half inch of the bottom of the jars. The layer of water on the bottom of the pan may touch the jars; care should be taken however to prevent boiling water from entering the jars. 
Cover the top of the jars with a piece of aluminum-foil and tighten it with a rubber band. This will help prevent any water from boiling up and entering the jars. The extra water would increase the moisture content too much. 
Gently steam the jars by boiling for an hour in a tightly covered pot. Keep the bottom of the pot filled with water by checking the water level and adding water as the steam evaporates. 
A good tight fitting pot lid is essential for successful steaming. Be careful not to overheat the jars, as the substrate will dry out. A gentle constant boil is what is needed. The jars can be inoculated as soon as their inside temperature has dropped below 35°C (95°F). 
I have had a 100% success rate using this method. I have also heard of people getting 100% contamination using this method. I think the difference is due to the fact of my taking a shower before working on all of the mixing and inoculation work. I then work while in the bathroom with just a clean towel on. 
I also clean the inside and outside the jars with rubbing alcohol after drilling the caps, then sealing them. 
I sterilize everything with rubbing alcohol before using anything that will come in contact with the inside or outside of the jars. That means tables, mixing bowls, measuring cups, hands, etc. The water that is added to the cakes is boiled and cooled before using. 
If you don't have access to a pressure cooker or canner, be extra sterile and you can have 100% clean cakes. 


*Inoculation* 
***** _Cleanliness Precautions_ 
Inoculating your jars is the main step where contamination is possible, and thus must be done in as clean of an environment as possible. If the room youre working in is clean enough, you can get away with inoculating them in open air. 
The needle of the syringe, if not absolutely sterile, can carry bacteria and spores from other molds into your cake, contaminating and ruining the cake. Wash your hands and face with antibacterial soap. Wear clean clothes. Anything in the area of the syringe and jars could contaminate your cakes if it is not clean. 


***** _Glove Box_ (Optional) 
If youre concerned about sterility, a good way to accomplish this is to make a 'glove box', an enclosed, semi-sealed box with holes for gloves to go through and a see-through top. 
A cheap, halfway decent one can be built for only a couple bucks worth of stuff. All you need is a large cardboard box, some tape and saran wrap to go over the top of the box, and a pair of new, unused dishwashing gloves. 
Tape saran wrap over the top and cut two holes big enough for your arms in the sides. Disinfect the gloves and the inside of the box with Lysol spray disinfectant. 
A small gate can be cut into the side of the box for getting the syringe and jars into the box, or they can be put through one of the arm holes (if you choose not to attach the gloves to the holes). 


***** Oven Inoculation: Cleanliness Simplified 
If you have an oven at your disposal, forget all about glove boxes and all that troublesome nonsense. The simplest, easiest way to assure cleanliness during inoculation is to do it on an oven rack. Turn your oven on at the lowest possible setting, and let it heat up. 
Once it's preheated, pull one of the racks out as far as it will go without falling out of the oven. (Use a rack near the bottom) Have your jars and spore syringe all nearby, ready to go. Place 3 or 4 jars at a time on the edge of the oven rack, and begin carefully inoculating them with the syringe. 
It's a good idea to have a lighter handy as well to sterilize the needle as you go. Flame the needle until it gets very hot, then carefully squirt a little bit of spore solution (if you can spare it) to cool down the needle before sticking it in the cake. Putting a hot needle into the cake will get burnt-on rice flour all over the needle. 


***** _Spore Injection_ 
Once youre ready to inoculate, shake up the spore syringe to get as many spores as possible off the sides of the syringe and into the water. Carefully remove the cap over the syringe needle and slide the needle into one of the holes in the jar lid. 
Shove it all the way in, so that the needle goes into the cake itself. Gently squeeze out about 0.5 to 1.0 cc of spore solution into each jar, splitting up the amount if you inject through more than one hole. Some people suggest using an entire cc of solution per jar, however I have had great success with only 0.5cc each. 
Be careful that nothing but the jar and substrate touch the needle, and re-cap it immediately after using it to avoid contaminating the needle. Also be careful of using too much spore solution. 
With spore syringes it can be easy to accidentally push the plunger on the syringe too forcefully and dump out way too much solution. Once each jar is inoculated, it is ready for incubation. Put tape over the holes in the lid to keep out any contaminants. 


*Mycelial (Vegetative) Growth* 
***** _Incubation_ 
Now the jars are incubated at about 75-85 degrees F, in a dark place, for several weeks. If you have a room that is constantly kept in this general range, this is a good place to incubate your jars. 
If not, you will need to find some other source of heat to keep them in that temperature range. Be careful not to use any heat source that could cause fires; a heating pad will usually work, some people have used fish tank heaters submerged in a warm water bath. 
A good investment here is a thermometer that keeps track of highest and lowest temperatures, so you can see how hot or cold your cakes are getting. 
If they get too cold, their growth will slow considerably, and if they get too hot, they will lose water and eventually die. (They will usually die if they ever get above 95 degrees F) 


***** Mycelial Growth
The first signs of mycelial growth should appear within 5-7 days. If none appear within two weeks, something went wrong. (Perhaps the cake was not cooled completely before inoculation, and the heat killed the spores, or the spores simply did not make it into the cake). 
This type of mushroom mycelium will always be a brilliant white fuzz, often growing in ropy strands. This ropy type of growth is called rhizomorphic growth, and is a sign that the mycelium will probably fruit very well. 
Any other color of mold, including some less brilliantly white molds (cobweb mold, for example, is white but not so thick, and it does look a lot like cobwebs.), is a sign of contamination. A contaminated cake will not recover and, except in very rare instances, will never produce mushrooms. 
After colonization is complete it is time for fruiting the magic mushrooms.


----------



## Ganjaglutin (May 24, 2009)

*Fruiting (Producing Mushrooms) and Harvesting* 
***** _The Fruiting Chamber (Terrarium)_ 
Many different things can be used for a fruiting chamber, including large plastic containers, camping coolers, aquariums, etc. Rubbermaid brand or similar containers work great. 
The fruiting chamber (also called a growing chamber or terrarium) must be at least 6-8" (15-20cm) tall, and have enough floor space for the cakes to be arranged with at least 1" (2.5cm) of free space on all sides. Spread the cakes out as much as possible so that the mushrooms have room to grow. 
If the chamber is too tall or too large, it may be difficult to keep the humidity high enough. The bottom of the chamber must be able to contain water, and the lid must be somewhat airtight in order to keep the humidity inside high. Light must be able to shine into the terrarium. 
If you are using a cooler or non-transparent plastic container, you will need to cut a window into the top of it and seal it with some sort of transparent material so that light can get in but humidity can't get out. For this reason, glass aquariums make very nice fruiting chambers if they are kept at the right temperature and humidity range. 


***** _Birthing The Cakes_ 
Once a cake is completely covered in white mycelium, you can wait up to 2 more weeks before taking the cake out of the jar. When you are ready, and in a fairly clean room, begin transferring the cakes from their jars into their fruiting chamber (described in the next step). 
Remove the lid of each jar, and dump out the dry vermiculite on top. Then, put the lid back over the top of the jar. Slowly turn the jar upside down, so that the cake is resting on the jar lid. You may need to gently tap the jar to knock the cake loose. 
Take the jar off the top of the cake and then carefully pick up the cake and turn it over, so it is sitting right side up on the lid. It is very important that the cake is fruited in the same orientation (with the same side up) as it had when it was incubating. 
If it is turned over during birthing, it will try to fruit from the original "top" side of the cake, even if this side is now facing down. This is bad, because the mushrooms can't grow correctly from the underside of the cake, and you will grow very few mushrooms. 
Leaving the cake sitting on the jar lid, put them both into the fruiting chamber. Once all the cakes have been transferred, you're ready to induce fruiting. 


***** _Inducing Fruiting (Producing Mushrooms)_ 
In order to initiate fruiting, three main conditions must be met for the cakes: 
*First*, they need light. Only a dim light is needed, anything bright or warm will harm the cakes. A fluorescent lamp or indirect sunlight is plenty of light. Mushrooms do not gain energy from the light like plants do, but in this particular species of mushroom light sends a signal to the mycelium that it is time to produce mushrooms. 
A source with a wide spectrum of light, especially containing lots of blue light (daylight and fluorescent plant lights are very good examples of light with lots of blue) is best, but a low wattage (15 watts is plenty) incandescent light bulb will supply enough light. 
*Second*, they need a fairly high humidity. 90-95% humidity is a good range for fruiting. The best and easiest way to do this is by lining the bottom of the fruiting chamber with damp perlite. 
A common mistake is to get the perlite too wet, and end up with a swamp of water and perlite that is very difficult to clean up, and will drown the cakes. Get enough perlite to make a 1" (2.5 cm) thick layer on the bottom of the fruiting chamber, and put it into a colander, strainer, or cloth enclosure that it can't slip out of. 
Wet it thoroughly with normal tap water, and let the water drain out. Then move the perlite into the fruiting chamber and smooth out the surface. You now have a layer of damp perlite that the cakes can be set directly on, and which will keep the humidity in the chamber high enough for the cakes to fruit. 
By the time your cakes have stopped producing mushrooms, the perlite might start getting a little bit skunky smelling. If you want to reuse it, put it in a baking pan and cook it at 350 degrees in your oven until it is dry. Let it cool, and it's ready to be used again. You can add some Hydrogen Peroxide to the wet perlite to help it stay clean a bit longer. 
*Third*, make sure the temperature is in the proper range to initiate mushroom growth, about 75-80 degrees F. Like the light, 75-80 degree temperatures signal the cakes to begin fruiting. 


***** _Pinning, Fruiting, And Harvesting_ 
For the first week or two, the colonized cakes will generally not do anything. Then, very small black-brown bumps, called "pins," "pinheads," or "primordia" will begin to grow out of the surface of the cake. 
These are the beginnings of mushrooms. Many will never grow any larger. However, some will grow until they are full-grown mushrooms. After you see the formed mushroom start to grow, temperatures of 80-90 degrees will promote the fastest growth rate. 
A mushroom is fully mature and ready to be picked when the edge of the cap tears away from the "stem" (the stem of a mushroom is called the stipe). Often, there will be a thin veil between the cap and stipe. If this is present, you can wait until the veil tears before picking the mushroom. To pick a mushroom, grasp it near the base where it is joined to the cake, and gently twist it until it comes off. 
Immediately begin the process of preserving it, either by refrigerating it or by drying it, mushrooms will begin to rot immediately. After all the mushrooms have been picked, a cake can be made to produce more mushroom by lowering the temperatures to the fruiting range, 75-80 degrees. 
When you see the new mushroom start to grow, increase the temperature to between 80 and 90 degrees. Each cake will produce another 1-3 waves or "flushes" of mushrooms, normally with 2-5 days of dormancy between flushes. After about 2-4 flushes, most cakes will be spent, and will not produce any more mushrooms. 


***** Aborts
Some of the pinheads will begin to grow, then suddenly stop before they become full-grown mushrooms. These are known as aborts (aborted mushrooms). 
Aborts are the strongest mushrooms by weight. That is, a gram of aborts will get you more stoned than a gram of fully developed mushroom. From my clinical observations, by weight, aborts will get you two to three times more stoned than fully developed magic mushrooms. 
But aborts must be picked before they begin to rot. A mushroom that has mold growing on it or which has black goo in the center of the stem is rotten and is not safe to eat. It is often difficult for beginners to identify an aborted mushroom before it begins to decompose. 
Early warning signs include a halt in growth of the mushroom, and a greenish tinge around the dark colored tip of the primordia that will eventually become the cap of the mushroom. 
Always completely remove aborts from the cake, even if they are too rotten to eat, because they can get moldy and cause the cake to get infected. 


*Preservation Methods* 
***** _Refrigeration_ 
If you will be consuming your mushrooms fairly soon after picking them, you can keep them in your refrigerator, in a paper bag. Don't use a plastic bag to store fresh mushrooms, this will cause them to mold. 
Fresh mushrooms are reportedly stronger than dried ones, but can be more difficult to dose. Also, Cubensis is a particularly nasty tasting species of mushroom, especially when fresh. 
Many people prefer to dry their mushrooms before consuming simply because drying will kill some of the bad flavor. It should also be noted that some people like the taste of Cubensis, and that the flavor of Cubensis can vary depending on which strain was used and under what conditions it was grown. 


***** Drying
The best way to preserve mushrooms is to dry them as soon as possible after picking. It is very important when drying that the mushrooms never be exposed to heat. Psilocybin and Psilocin, the main active chemicals in Psilocybe mushrooms, are very heat-sensitive chemicals that will break down if exposed to heat. 
You can get away with drying them in the sun, but expect some loss in potency. Another common method of drying is to put the mushrooms in an enclosed container, like a covered bowl, that also contains some desiccant. 
While drying mushrooms using desiccant will dry them very thoroughly, it will also take a very long time, giving the mushrooms more time to decompose. 
Another way to dry mushrooms is with the use of moving air. Simply place them in front of a fan (not a heater), and the moving air will dry them very quickly. 
An even easier way to air-dry mushrooms is with a food dehydrator. If the dehydrator doesn't have a switch for turning off the heat, you will need to take it apart and disconnect the heating element, making sure to take any necessary safety precautions. 
Air-drying is by far the fastest way to dry mushrooms, but will not always remove all of the water from the mushrooms. The drying process can be accelerated substantially by slicing the mushrooms lengthwise into halves or quarters, thus increasing the surface area of each mushroom. 
The best overall method for drying mushrooms is to first dry them using moving air, then, if necessary, put them into a desiccant chamber to remove the last little bit of moisture that remains in the mushrooms. 
You want your mushrooms to be bone dry and brittle. If they feel flexible, they are probably not totally dry. Store the dried mushrooms in a sealed container, away from heat and light. 
You can make sure that they stay dry by putting some desiccant into the storage container with them. 
The little desiccant packets that come in vitamin bottles will work to some extent. You can also make your own desiccant packets by wrapping up about a teaspoon of desiccant granules in a paper towel and securing the packet with rubber bands or tape.


----------



## Musical Suicide (May 24, 2009)

Fucking thank you sir!!! haha just what I was looking fer!


----------



## Ganjaglutin (May 24, 2009)

*Extras* 
***** _Spore Syringe & Spore Print Suppliers_ 
The first time magic mushroom grower should find a variety of Psilocybe cubensis that is easy to cultivate. If you are following the directions presented here, buy spore syringes as opposed to spore prints. Spore syringes are easier to work with and harder to contaminate when using this method. 
I can not recommend a place to get them because all of the good companies I have personally dealt with in the past have closed, don't have a reliable product anymore or have taken money from people but not sent any spores. If you know someone who grows magic mushrooms, they should be able to give you some spores, if not they will at least know where to get some. But nowadays I often use Sporeworks because they alot better reputation then some.


***** _Storing Magic Mushrooms_ 
Magic Mushrooms lose their strength with age and the two worst enemies of dried mushrooms are heat and light. 
Always store dried magic mushrooms in a fridge or freezer in a bag that light will not penetrate. 
A good idea would be to enclose the mushrooms in an airtight bag (ziploc or similar). Squeeze out the air, seal and put in a brown paper lunch bag. 


***** _Informational Sites_ 
Erowid Mushroom Vault - An extensive library of information relating to all types of entheogens, including mushrooms. 
Magic Mushrooms Net - Dedicated to the medical, spiritual and recreational use of magic mushrooms.
http://www.shroomery.org/ - Detailed magic mushroom information including growing shrooms, mushroom identification, spores, psychedelic art, trip reports and an active community.


----------



## Ganjaglutin (May 24, 2009)

DAMN!!!!!!!!!! I Thought I Was Going To Make It!!!!! I Wish I Knew How To Edit Threads!!!!!


----------



## Ganjaglutin (May 24, 2009)

Well At Least It's Still Of Use.


----------



## Chase the Bass (May 24, 2009)

Great DIY man! I have been toying with the idea of growing mushrooms for a little while now. I find it pretty ironic that you have to watch out for mold.


----------



## Ganjaglutin (May 24, 2009)

Why. Your Growing A Fungus. Perfect Habitat For Mold. Of Course It'll Grow. ;-D


----------



## Chase the Bass (May 24, 2009)

True. But I still find it ironic that while growing fungus you have to look out for fungus lol.


----------



## Ganjaglutin (May 24, 2009)

I Don't But I Still See Where Your Coming From. 



People Come Outta The Woodworks When A Good Guide Is Published....


----------



## Ganjaglutin (May 25, 2009)

Signin' Out.


----------



## LiEBE420 (May 25, 2009)

damn great guide man! too bad i have no idea on how to obtain some spors


----------



## Ganjaglutin (May 25, 2009)

Sporeworks. If Your In One Of Those Fucked Up States Your Only Chance Is Blue Meanies (Weraroa novea-zelandiae). I've Personally Grown These. Crazy Grow. Not Exactly A Begginers Strain. Barely Shrink In Size When Dried. 
http://sporeworks.com/store/catalog/Weraroa-novea-zelandiae--New-Zealand-Hallucinogenic-Pouch-Fungu-p-16341.html


If You Have A Friend In a Nearby State You Can Get Him To Buy Them And Then You Can Go Get It. Or If Your Fealing Adventurous Have A Friend Mail Them.




My Brother Has Hives. Just Called. I'm Helpin' Him.


----------



## LiEBE420 (May 25, 2009)

California, Idaho, and Georgia residents: Orders requesting Psilocybe Genera Spores shipped to California, Idaho, and Georgia will be refused, voided, or refunded. Possession of these mushroom spores may be illegal in CA, ID, and GA without the proper permissions.


awww


----------



## Ganjaglutin (May 25, 2009)

Cubensis AND Panaleous. Sucks Huh. Good Thing Blue Meanies Is It's Complete Own Genera.


----------



## LiEBE420 (May 25, 2009)

really? so they will ship it to CA?


----------



## Ganjaglutin (May 25, 2009)

I Would Hope So. They Don't Say Anything About Not Sending It. But Growing It Isn't Like Gowing Mushrooms. Seeing As How It's Not Exactly A Mushroom. It's A Toxic Fungus Pouch. It Wont Kill You In That Toxic Kinda Way. It Contains Alot Of Different Psychoactive Substances. But Of Course It's Chief Chemical Is Psilocybin.


----------



## LiEBE420 (May 25, 2009)

hahahaha how many strains of shrooms have you digested?


----------



## Ganjaglutin (May 25, 2009)

Haven't Kept Count. I've Ingested Strains That I Dont Know The Name Of. Strains Friends Have Had. Strains People Have Gave Me To Print. Spores People Have Gave Me To Grow. And Strains I Have Bought To Grow.


----------



## LiEBE420 (May 25, 2009)

yup yup fun stuff i wish i knew more about them. i've only tried them twice and the first time i took a half eighth and it wasn't enough but the second time i took an eighth and it was fun.


----------



## Ganjaglutin (May 25, 2009)

Yah. Shrooms Are Alright. Fun To Grow.


----------



## Ganjaglutin (May 25, 2009)

My First 5 Star Tread. Always Thought It'd Be The LSA Recipe...


----------



## LiEBE420 (May 25, 2009)

Ganjaglutin said:


> My First 5 Star Tread. Always Thought It'd Be The LSA Recipe...


hahahhahahhahaah


----------



## Ganjaglutin (May 25, 2009)

Ya Like That Huh? It's Non-Fiction.


----------



## Ganjaglutin (May 25, 2009)

Anybody Got A Clue To What This Is?









Thought It Looked Cool.


----------



## ebizartistry (May 25, 2009)

I am a reasonably new member but found this thread on the growing of magic mushrooms doable. I am a amature mycologist and have grown a number of varieties with great success. I would recommend that if you want a easier to grasp method you visit the shroomary or mushroomvisions.com. Find the "grow" ads and check it out. Also look for links on the site for solid dealers of mushroom spores at a reasonable price! Good job on this thread.


----------



## Ganjaglutin (May 25, 2009)

Alot Of The Equipment Is Household Or Not Neccesary. It's Generaly A General, Easy To Follow Guide.


----------



## aba (May 25, 2009)

dont you have a shorter version? looks complicated...


----------



## strictlyrude (May 25, 2009)

I've been using this method for a while. I actually just made 10 cakes last night, but my ratio's are slightly different, but always come out to the perfect amount to fill the jars. I use a 2:1:1 ratio in cups of vermiculite:water:brown rice flour. I also mix the verm and water thoroughly before adding the brown rice flower, it makes the mixing time considerably less and the consistency fluffier, quicker. but overall great tek. this is a very simple guide to use. I too use sporeworks for spores. theyre great and shipping is quick. also they have quite the selection, and the grab bag is a killer deal.

take it easy


----------



## ebizartistry (May 25, 2009)

Magic Mushroom Grow Kit with Instructions vs. Instructions Alone.​ 



As one might discover while doing a Google search, that there are many ways to grow magic mushrooms, even though many of them incorporate similar techniques. Because of all of the different and somewhat conflicting information out there, people are becoming more and more apt to grow mushrooms from a kit. There are those who proclaim this to be the lazy man's way, and maybe it is, but it may also be the smart man's way too. Nevertheless, if this is your first time growing these little creatures you'll find that it is a bit more complicated than growing grass, but learning from a kit increases your odds of success by 100%. Kits are expensive however and if you order one you will realize that it is nothing more than a collection of items easily found around the house. What is most important is the how-to-instructions that usually come with a kit. Why not save your hard earned dollar and just get the instructions? Because most of us are way too lazy.


One of the best things about learning from kit instructions is that you have all of your resources right there in your own home. The growing of mushrooms require many different items (some of which you have to purchase) and most you can find around the house. Growing from a kit helps you sort through all of this in the most cost effective way possible if you want everything in a box quickly. I ran into a slow delivery problem when I ordered my first dome kit. It took almost three weeks to arrive, and when it did, some items were missing.


Once you purchase your kit, you will receive wonderfully detailed instructions that will take you by the hand through the entire growing process, step by step. As a beginner you will actually "learn" the process so that you can repeat your success time after time, using many of the materials that you have already purchased. You'll find that these techniques work well for most grain loving edible mushrooms, providing you with an abundance month after month. So you see, learning the technique is the most important thing. You can get the equipment and supplies from your kitchen, usually.




I spent hour after hour on the computer trying to learn how to grow my own, and was left with my head spinning over all of the different information and products. There were people trying to tell me that I needed to buy their hoods, incubators, domes, growing bags and chambers, and the list goes on and on. It is completely worth it to spend a little money and buy yourself a good how-to instruction manual, video, books etc. And you'll be saving money too with more success and fewer failures.


Resource: Are you interested in learning about how to grow magic mushrooms? Mushroomvisions.com is a good start. Amatuer mycologist ~Purple Thumb


----------



## ebizartistry (May 25, 2009)

Never use sporestore. I had repeated problems with their products. Sproreworks is good, also http://www.ralphstersspores.com is really good! The GB computer program for calculating found on mushroomvisions.com is good also. Nice informative thread!


----------



## ebizartistry (May 25, 2009)

Go to mushroomvisions.com and checkout their all in on "how - to" MGB product.


----------



## Ganjaglutin (May 26, 2009)

Isn't Advertising Or Promoting A Store Against The Rules? I Mean We're All Breaking The Law Here (< No Im Not...) But I'm Just Wondering...


----------



## Ganjaglutin (May 27, 2009)

Front Pagin' It.


----------



## hailstorm (May 29, 2009)

Great thread. This is the method that I use and I must say that it is easy if you are willing to do the work. All of these ingredients are extremely easy to find you just have to be patient and wait for your jars to colonize. 

GROW YOUR OWN MUSHIES! IT IS SO EASY AND FUN!


----------



## Ganjaglutin (May 29, 2009)

Words Of A True Gentlemen.


----------



## purplehayse (May 30, 2009)

Would putting my friuting shrooms under a 400W hps light be benificial or harmfull compared to using a floro?


----------



## Ganjaglutin (May 30, 2009)

Mushrooms Do Not Contain Chlorophyll. They Are A Fungus, And Are In A Completely Different Kingdom Than Plants. They Feed On Dead Plant Matter Like Decaying Trees. Most Fungi Grow Under Ground Or Where It Is Very Dark. Some Extend Chutes Above Ground, Or Into The Open Air, But This Is Not To Gather Sunlight. It Is To Spread Their Spore For Reproduction. Light Is Not %100 Neccesary.


----------



## lind2388 (May 30, 2009)

purplehayse said:


> Would putting my friuting shrooms under a 400W hps light be benificial or harmfull compared to using a floro?


A hps light gives off light in the red spectrum probably somewhere around 3000K. You want to mimic daylight at 5500K-6500K. A compact fluorescent in that range is the way to go.


----------



## Ganjaglutin (May 30, 2009)

I've Grown Mushrooms Without.


----------



## lind2388 (May 30, 2009)

Ganjaglutin said:


> I've Grown Mushrooms Without.


It's impossible to grow mushrooms without light. Sure mycelium will grow but it certainly won't fruit without introduction to light. Cap size is a good indicator for light deficiency. Mushrooms lacking light will have very small caps with weaker color then those with proper lighting.


----------



## Ganjaglutin (May 30, 2009)

Never Had A Problem.


----------



## hailstorm (Jun 1, 2009)

I usually just put one of my lamps that has a 60 watt bulb on top of my fruiting chamber for 6-8 hours a day....I have discovered that when the shrooms are actually coming up and you don't put a light on them, they start to grow up and then back down towards the substrate. They just grow really funky and sideways if there isn't some light for them.


----------



## Ganjaglutin (Jun 1, 2009)

I Don't Use A Light. I'm Just Going To Say That Outright. I Grow Them In My Basement Where It's Cool And Well Ventilated By A Window. I Grow Mostly For Fun. When I Grow I Always Buy I Different Strain. I Like Sort Of Cataloging My Grows.


----------



## jollygreengiant8 (Jun 1, 2009)

Ganjaglutin said:


> I Don't Use A Light. I'm Just Going To Say That Outright. I Grow Them In My Basement Where It's Cool And Well Ventilated By A Window. I Grow Mostly For Fun. When I Grow I Always Buy I Different Strain. I Like Sort Of Cataloging My Grows.


Some natural ambient lighting from the sun does the trick just fine for me, no need to turn on any bulbs.

Ganjaglutin, I've been growing shrooms for about 8 months now with better results every time I cook a batch, but have been growing the same B+ strain since I got into this. Could you recommend some other strains that have impressed you. There are so many to choose from that I wonder if those value packs of the suppliers choice would be a safe bet.


----------



## Ganjaglutin (Jun 1, 2009)

Not Sure If I've Ever Bought A Value Pack...... Yes *Everybody *Loves B+. It Amazes Me. But A Interesting Grow Is Penis Envy. Specifically Albino. Which When I Grow (I've Actually Grown It Several Times, It's Pretty Good.) It, Is Quite Potent.


----------



## jollygreengiant8 (Jun 1, 2009)

ahh yes the penis envy...seems like a great strain but how are yields? I've heard they aren't great but they are potent, maybe for more of a personal stash..
I've also heard good things about golden teacher but it seems pretty similar to B+, ever tried them?


----------



## Ganjaglutin (Jun 1, 2009)

Read My Mind. If I Were To Subscribe A Value Pack To You I Would Probably Sy,


B+ 
Golden Teachers
Albino Penis Envy
Panaeolus Hawaiian, aka Blue Meanies


Golden Teachers COULD Get You 50 Grams Out Of 10 Jars 1cc Each.


----------



## jollygreengiant8 (Jun 1, 2009)

are the blue meanies difficult to grow?
I have a Psilocybe Cyanofriscosa print that I havent done anything with yet..not sure if I'm that advanced.


----------



## Ganjaglutin (Jun 1, 2009)

Haven't Grown It Yet. Heard It's Difficult To Fruit It On Any Other Than Wood.


----------



## Ganjaglutin (Jun 4, 2009)

Damn. Not Saying Your Advertising But That Was Your FIRST Post.


----------



## dk173 (Jun 5, 2009)

good tut i never tried shrooms do they taste gross and how is the high


----------



## jollygreengiant8 (Jun 5, 2009)

they taste pretty terrible when they are fresh but once they're dried its kind of like stale popcorn.

and I wouldn't call it a high, more of an experience that can be different every time. Depends heavily on your surroundings.

give them a try


----------



## Ganjaglutin (Jun 5, 2009)

Mushrooms Are A Psychedelic. Meaning The Experience Is A Trip.


----------



## lind2388 (Jun 5, 2009)

Ganjaglutin said:


> I Don't Use A Light. I'm Just Going To Say That Outright. I Grow Them In My Basement Where It's Cool And Well Ventilated By A Window. I Grow Mostly For Fun. When I Grow I Always Buy I Different Strain. I Like Sort Of Cataloging My Grows.


If your happy with mediocre flushes and uneven pin sets then don't use a light. Any experienced mushroom cultivator knows proper lighting is essential. A light not only provides the direction for the mushrooms to grow, but also is probably the strongest indicator for the mycelium network that it is time to fruit.


----------



## dk173 (Jun 5, 2009)

thx for the info and i might try it and i thought shrooms came from animal crap


----------



## jollygreengiant8 (Jun 5, 2009)

dk173 said:


> thx for the info and i might try it and i thought shrooms came from animal crap


well some shrooms do grow off of poo, but of course you clean them off.
I grow my own on brown rice flour, but you can grow them on birdseed or rye along with other things..not just poo.


----------



## Dr. Greenhorn (Jun 5, 2009)

kick ass thread bro!!


----------



## strictly seedleSs (Jun 5, 2009)

I followed the same directions when I attempted my first and only grow. I grew something "Wizards Cap" or something to that affect. My jars were almost full of mycelium, then within 72 hours they turned to what i can only describe as "plagued with a dripping black death". All 9 of my jars turned from beautiful white to black wet ick. Could temperature have been the issue?

Also how long do spores in a syringe last if refrigerated? I have 1 labeled Golden teacher and 1 labeled Costa Rica. I have had them for 4 years. I was so disappointed by my first attempt that ive been apprehensive to do it again. Thanks.


----------



## Ganjaglutin (Jun 5, 2009)

Spores In A Fridge Last A Year.


----------



## strictly seedleSs (Jun 6, 2009)

bummer, can anyone suggest a site that ships to the us?


----------



## Ganjaglutin (Jun 6, 2009)

Do You Mean California?


----------



## strictly seedleSs (Jun 6, 2009)

yup yup. The Republic of California.


----------



## Ganjaglutin (Jun 6, 2009)

I Think Spore101.


----------



## strictly seedleSs (Jun 7, 2009)

right on, appreciate it.


----------



## Ganjaglutin (Jun 7, 2009)

Don't Mention It.


----------



## bigtomatofarmer (Jun 7, 2009)

great thread bro
exactly what I was looking for
thank you


----------



## Ganjaglutin (Jun 7, 2009)

Don't Mention It.


----------



## MrBaker (Jun 7, 2009)

Hey shroom pros!

I'll be setting up the FC soon for some pf BRF cakes. Here is my question for those that know.

The ideal (less traffic) place for the FC is in a room that is 67-70 all year 'round. The jars have been incubating between 80-85, and I read that a drop to ~75 degrees would be ideal for fruiting. 

Can I fruit in the 67-70 degree room, or do I need to keep the T higher (around 75)?

*all T are in degrees F


----------



## Ganjaglutin (Jun 8, 2009)

Yes, You Can.


----------



## MrBaker (Jun 10, 2009)

Ganjaglutin said:


> Yes, You Can.


Sweet. 

Thank you very much.


----------



## Ganjaglutin (Jun 10, 2009)

Don't Mention It.


----------



## Playing With PEA's (Aug 16, 2009)

Cool thread.


----------



## thehairyllama (Aug 17, 2009)

Yeah good to see GanjaGlutin's name actually on RIU. Wonder what he is up to right now!


----------



## chitownsmoking (Aug 17, 2009)

MrBaker said:


> Hey shroom pros!
> 
> I'll be setting up the FC soon for some pf BRF cakes. Here is my question for those that know.
> 
> ...


 
you want your fruiting chamber 10 degreese cooler then you incubation or innoculation chamber so if you tryna colonize to 85 fruit at 75


----------



## usmcsoldier27 (Aug 20, 2009)

its well worth the effort man.


----------



## Playing With PEA's (Aug 20, 2009)

??? Wha? To grow shrooms? Definitelly.


----------



## pppp1984 (Aug 21, 2009)

Wow i only found this thread now. I was watchin a vid on making mushrooms similiar to this method, but instead of a pressure cooker i steamed them in a pot. The video never explained to cool them down after sterilization and after about 5 min or so i started injecting the spore( i know it was a stupid mistake), the jars wear warm but i could hold them so not piping hot. Did i fuck this up and should i just start again or should i wait 5 days just to see if there is any sign of colognisation. 

Does any body have any experiences like this.


----------



## Playing With PEA's (Aug 22, 2009)

IDK

" For fastest results though, a *warm* climate or environment works best *while colonizing*. "


----------



## ziggystardust74 (Sep 26, 2009)

thanks this is very infomative..i do have a cpl of questions. 1 i used to pick mushrooms and was always told that they go poison once light hits them b4 picked..obviously this is false according to your faqs,but it there a amount of light that is too much and will cause this to happen? and 2 these mushrooms occur naturally in manure,if i have access to horse manure should/can i use it or dont bother?


----------



## chitownsmoking (Sep 26, 2009)

dont fuck with jars!!!!!!!!!!!!! use substrate bags, get you a few 5 pound rye bags and drop like 3 cc's of spore juice into them and let them colonize in 83 degree enviorment. after that make a monotub and use your fully colonized substrate, to colonize a mixture of vermiculite, moss, and pastureized cow or horse shit. and let that colnize patching it were needed untill its ready to fruit. fruit that bitch out and you will get one pound dry flushes!!!!


----------



## steezy (Sep 27, 2009)

for real? i read about that something similar on shroomery.org, considerin shrooms and it sounded like a good method.


----------



## plantmagic (Apr 10, 2012)

Holy Crap is this all we really need to do? Bumping a really old post here just to see if this is still the preferred method. Would you change anything? I work in a hospital so I use sterile technique all the time so I think I could pull this off.


----------



## canndo (Apr 10, 2012)

Case, Case, Case


----------



## morfin56 (Apr 10, 2012)

I'm surprised canndo didn't suggest grain and bulk substrate.
The brf cakes aren't supplying me enough, I'm going to be doing some pcorn this weekend with an isolate from these cakes.
Got like 9 fruit in one cluster!
Do you think I will get a good canopy with this isolate canndo?


----------



## canndo (Apr 10, 2012)

Grain always works better than that brf stuff. Morf, if you do everything else right I don't see why not. I never know what to select for - size? quickness to fruit? (I don't see the point in selecting for fast mycelium, if your technique is down, why worry about a few days?), taste? yield? (now that is a hard one to select for) - pinset, the most number of pins on the casing at the same time.


----------



## morfin56 (Apr 10, 2012)

I'm just making a tissue slurry out of a mushroom that was in a cluster of a lot of mushrooms.
Hope it turns out good.


----------



## Fatty McDoobs (Apr 11, 2012)

Wow I'm such a retard!!! I didn't even know we had shit like this on RIU!! I been around this site a couple months joined not long ago and got my first cannabis grow up and going thanks to this site and some people on it.

So now I got more research to do. How to extract DMT is on here too!! RIU just got better and I didn't think it possible. I never really went past the grow journals for herb. Lol! 

I have a newb question. Who is a reputable spore bank? Not even sure if they call them banks sorry guys.


----------



## DaSprout (Apr 11, 2012)

Fatty McDoobs said:


> Wow I'm such a retard!!! I didn't even know we had shit like this on RIU!! I been around this site a couple months joined not long ago and got my first cannabis grow up and going thanks to this site and some people on it.
> 
> So now I got more research to do. How to extract DMT is on here too!! RIU just got better and I didn't think it possible. I never really went past the grow journals for herb. Lol!
> 
> I have a newb question. Who is a reputable spore bank? Not even sure if they call them banks sorry guys.


Yeah the green grows can be entrancing to say the least. 
www.freespores.com
http://www.ralphstersspores.com/USA $10-$15
http://www.micro-supply.com/ $10
http://www.spores101.com/ 4 syringes for $35 (unknown cubensis website's choice)
http://www.thehawkseye.com/ Buy 3 spore syringes and pick 1 FREE
http://sporeworks.com/ 4 syringes for $52 (customer's choice)
http://www.sporefarmer.com $8.88 plus penis envy and india
http://sporestore.com 10 for $49.99
http://www.lilshopofspores.com/ Package deals


----------



## Fatty McDoobs (Apr 11, 2012)

Awesome thanks! Do I need to know prints when buying online or that more for picking wild? Thanks bro +rep!


----------



## DaSprout (Apr 11, 2012)

Fatty McDoobs said:


> Awesome thanks! Do I need to know prints when buying online or that more for picking wild? Thanks bro +rep!


Nah. Just get the syringes for now. Later. As you read more and finally start producing. Then you can think of prints and making prints. I got syringes from spores101 and sporefarmer. All syringes worked. One strain that wont disappoint, and is one of the best starter strains is called "B+". It is one of the fastest moving, resilient, and reliable to produce. It does not disappoint. You can get whatever you want. Just work with a cubensis.


----------



## Fatty McDoobs (Apr 11, 2012)

So printing is for identifying what kind of shrrom it is correct? Sorry for the newb ?'s. Is there a link for all the terminology of shrooms? It would help me better understand things. I don know what it means to case when it comes to growing shrooms or any other terms really. Thanks gain!


----------



## DaSprout (Apr 11, 2012)

You can use an agar method for islolating. You use prints to save spore samples for a later time within your own library, like collecting seeds. You can go to a forum named shroomery join and then begin to research like you're doing on RIU. Casing is basically adding a non-nutrient layer to the top of your spawned substrate. Basically it is a more advanced and reliable way of "dunking and rolling" your colonized cake. You can do a google seach on mushroom casing to see the basics. I personally went past the dunk and roll, and went straight to spawning to bulk and casing. After you inoculate your first jar or bag and have some time to wait and read, you too may make the same move. Good luck.


----------



## Fatty McDoobs (Apr 11, 2012)

Great info! Gotta love the internet man! If only I would of found all this years ago! 

So I could save a print and use them later or is this more of a cataloge to show what you've done. I'm sorry man just wanna ask as much as I can while I'm talking to ya. I do appreciate it very much though! 

Have you done any yourself or do you just have the know how?

I haven't had shrooms since like 2001 or so. Heard of people doing it themselves with spores just thought there would be a lot more to it when doing it indoors. 

I also just want to say this is all for personal use. If I end up with a lot of anyting I grow it will be saved or given to family members who could benefit from what I've harvested. I do this to stay away from shady drug dealers and bad products associated with them. I am not in anyway looking to be a drugdealer to anyone in any shape way or form. I merely want to grow on my own naturally what God has already put here first and reap what I sow.


Sorry for the lil rant, couple of bong rips will do that to me. Shroomery looks pretty sweet! I'm about to make an account. If I could +rep ya again I would!


----------



## DaSprout (Apr 11, 2012)

A spore print is spores that you store to use later. You can essentially use it as a catalog of what you have grown or intend to grow. Look at it as adding seeds to your own seed bank. You can make your own syringes, or other cultures directly from a spore print. The mushrooms that you grow will perhaps be the greatest ones that you will ever consume. And this is one hobby that costs a fraction of a mj grow. And you can go to your local dollar/thrift/grocer store for a majority of the supplies.


----------



## trapologist (Apr 15, 2012)

tried the pf technique that didnt work so glad this guide is here to try again.


----------



## DaSprout (Apr 15, 2012)

Do a google search on "popcorn tek" you may find that to be more satisfying and quicker.


----------



## bushwickbill (Apr 15, 2012)

Actually doing this now. I have stuff in multiple stages and afraid im going to end up with a shit ton of shrooms.


----------



## DaSprout (Apr 15, 2012)

bushwickbill said:


> Actually doing this now. I have stuff in multiple stages and afraid im going to end up with a shit ton of shrooms.


At least you're getting your moneys worth.


----------



## lucidhaze (Apr 26, 2012)

How does making prints work? Is it possible to buy syringes, and make a print off them to basically have an infinite supply of spores that can be recycled? Or is it better off to just buy the syringes and use them up, then continue buying more every time i run out?


----------



## testtime (Apr 26, 2012)

lucidhaze said:


> 1)How does making prints work? 2) Is it possible to buy syringes, and make a print off them to basically have an infinite supply of spores that can be recycled? 3) Or is it better off to just buy the syringes and use them up, then continue buying more every time i run out?


1) Take a full grown cap and place it over some type of media for a couple of days. Spores are deposited. Lots of additional reading, but that's it.

2) Spores in needle are used to inoculate something, either jars of grain, bags of grain, brf (for some), etc. But those must be allowed to grow to become mushrooms, which you then get the spore prints from.

3) After a 1st pass of needles, you then can choose to keep the best cap and make spore prints (and live myc as well) forever, and never have to buy needles again.


----------



## lucidhaze (Apr 26, 2012)

testtime said:


> 1) Take a full grown cap and place it over some type of media for a couple of days. Spores are deposited. Lots of additional reading, but that's it.
> 
> 2) Spores in needle are used to inoculate something, either jars of grain, bags of grain, brf (for some), etc. But those must be allowed to grow to become mushrooms, which you then get the spore prints from.
> 
> 3) After a 1st pass of needles, you then can choose to keep the best cap and make spore prints (and live myc as well) forever, and never have to buy needles again.



Thanks for the fast and helpful reply!


----------



## DaSprout (Apr 27, 2012)

Ahhh. Enlisting more into the Army of Darkness.


----------



## tyslee (Apr 30, 2012)

It's great information man. 
I started to buy the thing but where can I find this thing? *

Psilocybe cubensis Spores​
​

*Please help me bro.
Can I buy and use this one instead of your suggestion? http://www.potseeds.co.uk/products/49/228/magic_mushroom_spore_syringes_10ml/


----------



## testtime (Apr 30, 2012)

I can't say yay or nay on your's, no experience, but both of these are very good.

http://www.earthstongue.com/ 
http://www.thehawkseye.com/ 



Both were good, fast, and productive.


----------



## morfin56 (Apr 30, 2012)

Might I recommend http://mycrotopia.com, good prices, good genetics, and reliable.
That site owns the mycotopia mushroom growing site, it has more knowledge then you could ever need on a wide range of topics(not just mushrooms).


----------



## DoctorSmoke (May 1, 2012)

i had the idea of buying some spore prints or those syringes and just placing it in a plastic container with compost or good soil blend like something u would grow worms in then just see if it works. but im guessin i need to start thsoe off in a sterile environment. if i could get it to work small scale then i would transplant what i got into a bigger container and just keep them going. im assuming they reproduce on their own. i havent looked into it that much but i could get it to work, eventually.


----------



## DoctorSmoke (May 1, 2012)

mushrooms grow good in soil if the humidity is right?


----------



## canndo (May 1, 2012)

DoctorSmoke said:


> i had the idea of buying some spore prints or those syringes and just placing it in a plastic container with compost or good soil blend like something u would grow worms in then just see if it works. but im guessin i need to start thsoe off in a sterile environment. if i could get it to work small scale then i would transplant what i got into a bigger container and just keep them going. im assuming they reproduce on their own. i havent looked into it that much but i could get it to work, eventually.



Probably not.


----------



## shadow hawk (Jul 31, 2012)

first off thank you for having a guide that i can actually understand but im new to shrooms in general and only tried them once but im interested in growing and this is gonna sound funny but i've never heard anyone specify what cakes are they just shrooms or what sorry for the stupid question i just need to know thank you in advance.


----------



## Sugar420 (Aug 14, 2012)

Hi there!
I just recently purchased some spores & am in the incubation state (it's been 5 days) & I do already start to see the fuzzy white on the edges of the jars & I purchased my spores from http://www.microsporetech.com/; Each needle is $10.00 a piece & if you get 2, you get a third one free... Just curious, in my first one, while injecting (it's my first time), everything ran out of the needle so fast that my first 2 jars have way too many spores. How will that affect me within the rest of the process?
Thanks so much! This article rocks!!!!!! o}


----------



## Kaypay (Aug 29, 2012)

After filling the jars with syringe solution instruction says to tape the holes. But another guide says to leave the lids a bit loose to let the air in.. So which one is correct? Would it be ok to tape the holes and tighten lids up and let no air get in at all?


----------



## morfin56 (Aug 29, 2012)

No, Kaypay.
Your jars need FAE, fresh air exchange.

They probably used micropore tape which allows for FAE.

I suggest leaving your lids on all the way and just leaving the holes open.


----------



## PuffinChronic (Aug 29, 2012)

shadow hawk said:


> first off thank you for having a guide that i can actually understand but im new to shrooms in general and only tried them once but im interested in growing and this is gonna sound funny but i've never heard anyone specify what cakes are they just shrooms or what sorry for the stupid question i just need to know thank you in advance.


First things first... Go over to
http://www.shroomery.org ... everything you could every possibly want to know is available there.

If you do decide to go ahead and try your hand at some amateur mycology I suggest the following..
Phase 1 : http://www.shroomery.org/9031/Fool-Proof-Birdseed-Method 
Phase 2 : http://www.shroomery.org/10858/How-to-do-Coir

Good luck,
Puff.


----------



## PuffinChronic (Aug 29, 2012)

Kaypay said:


> After filling the jars with syringe solution instruction says to tape the holes. But another guide says to leave the lids a bit loose to let the air in.. So which one is correct? Would it be ok to tape the holes and tighten lids up and let no air get in at all?


Try this... Before hand take all your jar lids and drill 3 or 4 holes around the perimeter and use silicone as a self healing inoculation point. You can stick your syringe in and pull it out and it closes up on its own. The jar is therefore never exposed to outside air.

Again... http://www.shoomery.org is the place to go for this type of information.

Puffin.


----------



## Kaypay (Aug 29, 2012)

I dont know if my tape is breathable, i think it is, its the one you use for skin, so it has to be. Anyways, i am doing 6 jars. So i left 3 with tape on, and 3 with a few holes and will see how it goes. Its my first time, gotta experiment


----------



## Kaypay (Aug 29, 2012)

morfin56 said:


> No, Kaypay.
> Your jars need FAE, fresh air exchange.
> 
> They probably used micropore tape which allows for FAE.
> ...


Thanks for reply.

Wouldn't letting air in increase a chance of contamination though? 

On shroomery org it is said that you can tighten lids and tape holes if the humidity is not too high, otherwise water can start gathering up at the bottom of jars. 

But maybe they meant breathable tape..


----------



## PuffinChronic (Aug 29, 2012)

Kaypay said:


> Thanks for reply.
> 
> Wouldn't letting air in increase a chance of contamination though?
> 
> ...


I tried to PM you and couldn't.. Maybe you need to register with rollitup, I don't know... Send me a pm with your grow details and I would be happy to guide you through your first grow...


----------



## AKShrooms (Sep 2, 2012)

I took Ganjagluten's instructions and created a PDF for new members to download. I have found it to be very well done and thorough. Here is the Link - right click and use Save As option, or just click it and open it.


----------



## guyguy (Nov 9, 2012)

AKShrooms said:


> I took Ganjagluten's instructions and created a PDF for new members to download. I have found it to be very well done and thorough. Here is the Link - right click and use Save As option, or just click it and open it.


Link does not work for me :/ Try it now and see if it works for other people?


----------



## guyguy (Nov 9, 2012)

PuffinChronic said:


> I tried to PM you and couldn't.. Maybe you need to register with rollitup, I don't know... Send me a pm with your grow details and I would be happy to guide you through your first grow...


Hey puffin.. I am in the middle of my first marijuana grow but would love to start a shroom grow as well.. Haha, talk about sudden motivation!

Anyways, would you mind talking me through the shroom grow too? Though I only began research today- so I will most likely begin the grow in a week or so after I have researched it enough till I understand it.

Let me know!

Thanks


----------



## Caney (Nov 24, 2012)

But how many hours should it be? Is it like 12/12 as the cannabis plants?

Nice info


----------



## kidwonder (Jan 16, 2013)

Ganjaglutin said:


> instead of the vermiculite could you substitute that with diatomaceous earth?


----------



## carolsmith (Mar 19, 2013)

Great , thanks for sharing. It helped me a lot . Thank you again


----------



## canndo (Mar 19, 2013)

Ganjaglutin said:


> Anybody Got A Clue To What This Is?
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Looks like an enzyme


----------



## canndo (Dec 15, 2013)

you can but it isn't as good and looks too much like mycelium, it can fool you. Why you doing "cakes"?. poor choice.


----------



## LowSignal (Jan 2, 2014)

Updated photo links would be awesome.


----------



## peopleware87 (May 2, 2014)

Does it really take 7 weeks to fully colonize the jars? I'm just curious because some people say several when they really mean 3, hah. I've seen people with jars colonized after 2 weeks and I checked a couple of my jars today after 7 days (after following these instructions to the T, except my pressure cooker only cooks up to 12psi, so I added more time) and there is no sign of colonization.


----------



## canndo (May 3, 2014)

peopleware87 said:


> Does it really take 7 weeks to fully colonize the jars? I'm just curious because some people say several when they really mean 3, hah. I've seen people with jars colonized after 2 weeks and I checked a couple of my jars today after 7 days (after following these instructions to the T, except my pressure cooker only cooks up to 12psi, so I added more time) and there is no sign of colonization.


 
No sign of growth after about 5 days usualy means that you did something wrong, if you don't see any growth at all, then you either have an empty syringe (happesn), or you innoculated too hot and killed the spores. If you did kill them, a second squirt might start you up.


----------

