# Co2 for clones good or bad ?



## hpn0tiq420 (Nov 16, 2010)

I have a master kush clone and I'm wondering if I feed a tube through a hole in my humidity dome from my homemade co2 generator if it will help It grow and establish roots or will it harm it figured I better post this and get some answers before I go and kill my clone also thinkin that it can't hurt it but I want to be sure I'm not doing something wrong here's a pic


----------



## legallyflying (Nov 16, 2010)

plants that size don't need co2 supplementation as they are just not big enough. Besides, with your home made co2 generator you have no idea how much co2 your giving your pllants and just might kill it with too high of a concentration. In think you can stop using your humidity dome by now.


----------



## hpn0tiq420 (Nov 16, 2010)

Thanks answered everything I needed


----------



## Truth4:20 (Jul 11, 2015)

legallyflying said:


> plants that size don't need co2 supplementation as they are just not big enough. Besides, with your home made co2 generator you have no idea how much co2 your giving your pllants and just might kill it with too high of a concentration. In think you can stop using your humidity dome by now.


I agree as far as taking the dome off, but i disagree with clones or plants that size not needing co2, They actually make and sell little co2 mat things you roll up and place inside your cutting dome. As far as i heard and i could be wrong, co2 helps cuttings root faster or higher success rate. Look into it more. But as far as regulating the co2 to them im not sure.


----------



## Truth4:20 (Jul 11, 2015)

hpn0tiq420 said:


> Thanks answered everything I needed


check out this link....


http://www.milehydro.com/product/green-pad-co2-junior-contains-10-pads/


----------



## Dr. Who (Jul 12, 2015)

Truth4:20 said:


> I agree as far as taking the dome off, but i disagree with clones or plants that size not needing co2, They actually make and sell little co2 mat things you roll up and place inside your cutting dome. As far as i heard and i could be wrong, co2 helps cuttings root faster or higher success rate. Look into it more. But as far as regulating the co2 to them im not sure.


Sigh,,,,,NO! 
Seedlings and even vegging plants get little to no advantage from Co2 enrichment! It would be a waste of your money.
Save the Co2 for bloom.....1000ppm minimum and temps at 80F to make any difference.

Doc


----------



## Truth4:20 (Jul 12, 2015)

Everyone's a scientist. 


Dr. Who said:


> Sigh,,,,,NO!
> Seedlings and even vegging plants get little to no advantage from Co2 enrichment! It would be a waste of your money.
> Save the Co2 for bloom.....1000ppm minimum and temps at 80F to make any difference.
> 
> Doc


----------



## Dr. Who (Jul 12, 2015)

Truth4:20 said:


> Everyone's a scientist.


Nah, just better educated on the subject..


----------



## Truth4:20 (Jul 12, 2015)

Thanks for the input and im not a scientist so i dont know how but clones do root faster at least 3 to 4 days diffrence, but thats just from my last two years hands on experience


----------



## Dr. Who (Jul 13, 2015)

I don't add. Just make sure the air is turned over constantly in the clone area..
Domes are good - but they hold the fresh air out. 
I see your point though!


----------



## Budley Doright (Jul 13, 2015)

Never tried it, never thought of trying it but if you google it there are a few (didnt spend much time, just curious) articles about supplementing the air in a cutting room with CO2 to enhance root growth. These were not canna based articles but commercial green houses. Perhaps there is something to this. I do agree that dumping unknown amounts in the dome may not be a great thing to do though.


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 14, 2015)

Co2 for clones is jst unnecessary. If u want to use it just grab a nice humidity dome and put those little co2 pads that you get wet and stick it on the side of the dome if u really want to use it.

I dont run co2 at all on anything because I have fresh air constantly coming into the room, but using co2 enhancement properly definetely speeds up veg time and can ripen flowers quicker.

Its just really important that when you are adding co2 that you make sure room is dialed in and you environment is perfect otherwise you sre just wasting the co2 and $$ and you wont get any better results. Since co2 helps growth rates you need to feed more and keep temp and humidity correct so stomata can open and close to absorb and benefit from added co2. If u use co2 and it isnt done proprly can lead to deficiencies and problems in your garden. Hope this helps


----------



## Truth4:20 (Jul 14, 2015)

Cannabil said:


> Co2 for clones is jst unnecessary. If u want to use it just grab a nice humidity dome and put those little co2 pads that you get wet and stick it on the side of the dome if u really want to use it.
> 
> I dont run co2 at all on anything because I have fresh air constantly coming into the room, but using co2 enhancement properly definetely speeds up veg time and can ripen flowers quicker.
> 
> Its just really important that when you are adding co2 that you make sure room is dialed in and you environment is perfect otherwise you sre just wasting the co2 and $$ and you wont get any better results. Since co2 helps growth rates you need to feed more and keep temp and humidity correct so stomata can open and close to absorb and benefit from added co2. If u use co2 and it isnt done proprly can lead to deficiencies and problems in your garden. Hope this helps


Nicely put, temps do have to be higher for plants to be able to use the extra co2 efficiently


----------



## ttystikk (Jul 14, 2015)

I keep running across evidence that CO² does help root growth, in cuttings and in established plants.

I think that while it may be helpful, it isn't necessary to the process and thus may well be unnecessarily complicating things.


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 14, 2015)

ttystikk said:


> I keep running across evidence that CO² does help root growth, in cuttings and in established plants.
> 
> I think that while it may be helpful, it isn't necessary to the process and thus may well be unnecessarily complicating things.


Co2 doesnt help root growth directly its indirectly related because your plants are able to increase their metabolic rate. DO (dissolved oxygen) coupled with co2 is what grows robust roots because you sre creating an awrobic environment for your roots. More oxygen means better root growth and air exchange.

Co2 is for the plant above the roots and o2 and dissovled oxygen is for below the plant in the roots. When these 2 elements work together you have a symbiotic relationship that provides excellerated growth rates for overall plant health. Many ppl find that co2 enriched gardens also ward off insects because they cant breathe and produce when co2 levels are increased.

Many growers also use co2 to kill spider mites if you can get your co2 levels high enough I forget what the amount is i think its above 20,000 ppm for an hour or so it will kill these bugs in your garden. If u have a properly sealed room you can use this method to eliminate and kill various insects that are hazardous to your plants and it really does work.


----------



## ttystikk (Jul 14, 2015)

I tried to kill bugs that way and it was totally ineffective for me.

I'm not so sure that CO² is only for green shoots. CO² is plentiful underground, being a byproduct of decomposition. Plants like decomposing things, so there has to be a reason. I don't think it's mere coincidence.


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 14, 2015)

ttystikk said:


> I tried to kill bugs that way and it was totally ineffective for me.
> 
> I'm not so sure that CO² is only for green shoots. CO² is plentiful underground, being a byproduct of decomposition. Plants like decomposing things, so there has to be a reason. I don't think it's mere coincidence.


Roots have no use for co2 at all. Co2 is needed for photosynthesis which is absorbed thru the stomata. Roots use carbon and decomposition which converts carbon and sugars into co2 which is emitted in the atmosphere.

When co2 is added to the roots it starves the roots of oxygen which creates an anaerobic environment where pathogens and bacteria take over and kill roots by decomposition.

Co2 is not for your roots its for your plant to convert into energy which increase metabolism that allows the roots and plant to absorb more water and nutrients. Co2 is absorbed by plants thru leaves and oxygen is used by roots and its by product is co2 which is release into atmosphere.

If you have a reservoir w water and agitate it by circulating the water with a pump or airstone its beneficial for your roots because it releases the co2 and increases the oxygen which is why its beneficial for your roots. If you put co2 into your roots you would choke out the roots by depleting the oxygen. So co2 is not for your roots its is detrimental to their health.


----------



## ttystikk (Jul 14, 2015)

Cannabil said:


> Roots have no use for co2 at all. Co2 is needed for photosynthesis which is absorbed thru the stomata. Roots use carbon and decomposition which converts carbon and sugars into co2 which is emitted in the atmosphere.
> 
> When co2 is added to the roots it starves the roots of oxygen which creates an anaerobic environment where pathogens and bacteria take over and kill roots by decomposition.
> 
> ...


I remain unconvinced.


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 14, 2015)

ttystikk said:


> I remain unconvinced.


Thats ok. Just offering my input. It doesnt really matter either way co2 is beneficial for your plants and promotes growth and roots are part of the plant so they obviously will be bigger and more abundant but its not because the roots are using the co2 because its the upper part of the plant thats processing it. But same shit


----------



## a mongo frog (Jul 14, 2015)

Cannabil said:


> Thats ok. Just offering my input. It doesnt really matter either way co2 is beneficial for your plants and promotes growth and roots are part of the plant so they obviously will be bigger and more abundant but its not because the roots are using the co2 because its the upper part of the plant thats processing it. But same shit


If one is using aqua flakes, would adding sweet or molasses benefit the garden in any way?


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 14, 2015)

a mongo frog said:


> If one is using aqua flakes, would adding sweet or molasses benefit the garden in any way?


Aqua flakes is for hydroponics isnt it? I wouldnt be adding any of those products into my reservoir. Not only would they probably clog your whole system eventually I dont think theres a reason to run any molasses or sweetener (carb) in hydroponics.

If your running soil I would say it would be beneficial to feed microbes and benes. Im in a toss up over it doing anything other than that for the plant. People swear by molasses i got a buddy who uses it in coco with 3 part gh as a boost in bloom but idk. Ive never used it.
Maybe someone else could chime in with better info on this subject.

But using it in hydroponics would be foolish IMHO.


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 14, 2015)

Whats reason your asking this?

Theres hydro specific carbs like maybe bud candy or another liquid sweetener you could try. I dont use any of the jazz I think its a waste of money but to each his own.

Blackstrap molasses is good for teas and soil growing for a food source for microbes and benes other than that I wouldnt use it at all. But some ppl who do organics cherish it. Im not that guy though


----------



## a mongo frog (Jul 14, 2015)

Cannabil said:


> Whats reason your asking this?
> 
> Theres hydro specific carbs like maybe bud candy or another liquid sweetener you could try. I dont use any of the jazz I think its a waste of money but to each his own.
> 
> Blackstrap molasses is good for teas and soil growing for a food source for microbes and benes other than that I wouldnt use it at all. But some ppl who do organics cherish it. Im not that guy though


I asked you this cuz you seem to have some kind of botany educated back ground. Also ask you this cuz i run peat soilless, have been using aqua flakes about 7 years now and i absolutely love it. How ever the person who shows me the basics of gardening many years ago had the sweet/molasses in his recipe so i followed it till just recently. Ive also read it does nothing to the way i garden, and then some would say yes it does. Ive asked other members this and got mixed answers, so i thought i would just ask you out of the blue.


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 14, 2015)

a mongo frog said:


> I asked you this cuz you seem to have some kind of botany educated back ground. Also ask you this cuz i run peat soilless, have been using aqua flakes about 7 years now and i absolutely love it. How ever the person who shows me the basics of gardening many years ago had the sweet/molasses in his recipe so i followed it till just recently. Ive also read it does nothing to the way i garden, and then some would say yes it does. Ive asked other members this and got mixed answers, so i thought i would just ask you out of the blue.


Oh yeah no doubt man. Basically people run molasses I find primarily in soil for helping the microbes and bacteria thrive they provide a food source in turn they provide nutrients through their waste for the plants. Symbiotic relationship in a sense.

I do know a few people who do run promix and use molasses with the Gh 3 part and they use it prinarily in bloom as a flowering enhancer. If it works I couldnt tell you, to my knowledge I dont think it does anything other than what I mentioned regarding feeding the micro life and carbohydrates which helps your plant produce energy it needs in bloom.

The only way you would be able to absolutely tell how it works is running it on some of the containers and leaving out of the others and see if theres a difference as every garden is different.

I wish i had a better strraight forward answer for you regarding this matter but its one of those things that you will find people disagree about. I can tell you that I do no think it will have any adverse affects on your grow and wont be detrimental to your plants. 

Also molasses helps condition your soil and prevents pathogens by feeding the beneficial bacteria which outperform the bad bacteria making it very useful. But make sure you use the right type of molasses its need to be organic and unsulphured do not use sulphured molasses. Unsulphured molasses is the one u want.

Molasses also is a primary source of both macro and micro nutrients and can help reduce deficiencies and issues in the garden. So from a distance if u are using the right type of molasses whether soil or soilless it is beneficial and will help to an extent in creating a good aerobic rhizosphere leading to improved plant healt and quality. Providing carbs for your microlife and nutrients for your girls. I think its more efficient in soilless organic mediums but should be good in soilless as well.

Hope this all helps.


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 14, 2015)

My buddy is saying thay molasses also helps prevent salt buildup in your medium which is another reason he uses it in his soilless mix. It helps retain moisture and balance ph basically keeping it more stable by preventing salt buildup which can lead to plant moisture stress in the leaves etc.

So i guess it does serve a few different purposes in your garden. Id say to keep using it if you are happy with your results. You dont need much of it either which is nice since its very inexpensive to begin with. I think gallons of organic blackstrap unsulphure molasses is only like 20-30$ and you need only a couple tablespoons per 5 gallons of water. So the benefits definetely outweigh the cost as a whole and I think you should definetely keep it around for your girls.

Im looking into starting my own soils and using just teas to feed. So I will be purchasing a good amount of this stuff in near future myself.


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 14, 2015)

I dont have any botany or hotriculture degree or experience of that kind. I do alot of reading and I always talk to other growers and value everyones opinions. I think alot of people over analyze and over due it. All the crazy terminology and you need to know plant science and all this other shit is for the birds.

Just got keep things simple and easy. You dont need a degree in horticulture to grow the shit. All the stuff about reading plants and them telling you what they want I find to be kinda funny as well. I see it quite often reading these forums and posts from people and I have to chuckle when I see it.

I take the approach that nutrient companies have labs and people who make these nutrients for a living and know better than I would what to feed these plants. I just follow the instructions and feeding charts and Im usually good to grow. As long as you use a good base nutrient with the 17 essential elements that are in a good ratio for your plants than you shouldnt have any issues to begin with. 

The main thing is providing a good environment for your plants regarding temp and humidity and a good soil or soilless mix. And if your growing in hydro just keep your ph in range and your water cool and your good to grow.

I dont think its necessary to wait until your plants show deficiencies to give them more food "reading plants and them telling me what they want is kind of a weird statement" its almost like i wait until something is wrong before i fix the problem. I dont know who or where someone came up with that but i dont ever want to see deficiencies, ever. So assuming if thats what that means I really dont know who came up with that. 

I actually like to find out how much they can handle and soon as I see a little leaf tip burn I cut back and I know where I need to be at and what Amounts i should be feeding so i dont have any issues to read or deal with. Flush your mediums with 1/4 strength nutrient solutions every couple of weeks and a few straight waterings here and there and thats it. And just make sure your Ph pens are calibrated correctly i like to calibrate every couple weeks.

As long as you use a root innoculant, beneficial bacteria, good base nutrient (calmag if your using RO water) and a flowering enhancer during peak bloom you shouldnt really need to do anything but watch them grow, produce their flowers and enjoy the fruits of your labor.

Than when it time to chop just keep your temps in upper 60s lower 70s, humidity around 55-60%. Plants should dry or snap in 4-6 days thats ideal drying time I find. And than jar em up or bag em and leave em for a week. Burp if theres any moisture but if u dry it right once you bag or jar them u shouldnt need to open or touch them for weeks or months to get the best flavor and smell and thc content. Leaving the jars or bags sealed without opening ensures that the gases and bacteria break down the chlorophyll properly and enhance the potency smell anf flavors and that the curing process you have done has worked correctly.

Alot of people do great grows and the shit looks amazing and than they harvest and they fuck up drying and curing and ruin their entire crop. Comes out smelling like hay, loses its luster and isnt any better than some bag schwag for your local corner dealer. Ive seen runs that looked fckin amazing and a week or so later I see it done and bagged up and say omg what the fck happened.


----------



## Dr. Who (Jul 14, 2015)

a mongo frog said:


> If one is using aqua flakes, would adding sweet or molasses benefit the garden in any way?


Molasses,,,,not in hydro!

Sweet , sweet raw, Botanicare 65.00 a gallon......Mg sulfate and some complex carbs......Well, The S and the Mg will increase Tric's and Terp's! Yup, for real. It will increase tric and terp production.....Increase in THC by volume, increase terps by volume and concentration !!

65.00 a BOTTLE = get real......I can make it for less then a buck a gallon!

You will need and opaque bottle - gallon size
1 gallon RO water
8 TBL Epsom Salts
1 1/2 tsp DARK Brown sugar

Pour water into the gallon jug. Now pour 4 cups of that into a sauce pan.
Pan on stove and bring to a boil.
Add the epsom and the DARK brown sugar and boil for 4-5 min stirring nonstop till done.

Remove from stove and using a funnel, pour the mix into the bottle of water...Shake to mix and use like this.

week b4 bloom = 5ml per gallon of feed
week 1 = 10ml
week 3 = 15ml
week 6 = 20ml till finish

Works BETTER then the Botanicare and costs less then a buck a bottle!

Doc


----------



## Dr. Who (Jul 14, 2015)

Cannabil said:


> Aqua flakes is for hydroponics isnt it? I wouldnt be adding any of those products into my reservoir. Not only would they probably clog your whole system eventually I dont think theres a reason to run any molasses or sweetener (carb) in hydroponics.
> 
> If your running soil I would say it would be beneficial to feed microbes and benes. Im in a toss up over it doing anything other than that for the plant. People swear by molasses i got a buddy who uses it in coco with 3 part gh as a boost in bloom but idk. Ive never used it.
> Maybe someone else could chime in with better info on this subject.
> ...


Molasses does not provide any notable nutritional value to your plant, other then _some_ micro nutrients

No Molasses in hydro....

SWEET RAW WILL WORK WELL in HYDRO !!!! It was designed as a specific molasses replacement (with high Mg for other added benefits) in hydro!

Doc

WHOA, hold it there.....I just read your follow up's
When running soil less.....Microbes CAN BE introduced and used in media like peat and coco (That are not res fed).....Therefor, Molasses can be used to feed the heard in small dose's!!! No problems.

Molasses should NOT be used for any other style of hydro! PERIOD.....

I know plant science and all the terminology....It's NOT for the birds! I try not to use to many of the big science words, so guys like ya'all can understand what I'm trying to convey to you....

I have a news flash for you sonny.....Nutrient companies and their labs are in it for the money...YOUR money! MOST of them lie, cheat and steal from YOU!
Advanced Nutrients
House and Garden
and a HUGE portion of the rest make stupid claims and lead you to products you in no way need to get what I can do on my own!

Root inoculant (correct spelling) What for? Your adding Myco's to the soil correct? What do you think that "root inoculant" is? The myco's that live on the roots will move there and colonise by them selves.....You just paid for something you didn't need!

What is this flushing medias thing? The ONLY media that NEEDS an occasional minor flush is Coco......Flushing can cause more problems then it solves in ANYTHING else!

Soil = water only or a Nice balanced soil that you can feed with teas as needed.
Nutrient = one and I mean 1 powder in a tub can do just as well if not BETTER then all those snake oil hucksters that you make rich! It's that science that some of us learned that make that the difference! Ok and decades of growing don't hurt.....

You kinda touched a nerve Cannabil.....

Doc


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 14, 2015)

Or u could do some crazy shit like this guy said. I orefer to buy a bottle of some good carb product like botanicare sweet or cutting edge sugar dee or AN bud cany. But to each his own

I dont like to penny pinch or cut corners on my grows i spend money to make money and use good legit products. Theres alot of backyard mechanics going on in these forums haha.


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 14, 2015)

At the end of the day who cares if u spend 300-500$ on good nutrients to grow a few pounds of premium meds. Im not gonna penny pinch making my own homemade nutrients and crazy shit like this to save a few dollars.

If i can grow a pound of meds for 100/200$ thats fckin awesome


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 14, 2015)

Organic molasses is filled with macro and micronutrients. Not enough to give ur plant all its need but it does contain amounts of them including trace elements. Idk where u got that info but molasses is a source of those nutrients and can help facilitate certain amounts for your plants.


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 14, 2015)

Dr. Who said:


> Molasses does not provide any notable nutritional value to your plant, other then _some_ micro nutrients
> 
> No Molasses in hydro....
> 
> ...


Well thats absolutely wrong you never wanna flush coco ever. Lol


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 14, 2015)

Im not hear to argue but alot of stuff u posted is wrong. People can listen to whoever they choose i posted the info either u like it or u dont im not gonna argue about it.
If u think u know everything thats awesome. This post wasnt meant for u if thats the case.
If u have something beneficial to add to the thread so be it but dont try put me down in the process. Thank u


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 14, 2015)

You should never flush coco with straight water is what i should say


----------



## a mongo frog (Jul 14, 2015)

Cannabil said:


> My buddy is saying thay molasses also helps prevent salt buildup in your medium which is another reason he uses it in his soilless mix. It helps retain moisture and balance ph basically keeping it more stable by preventing salt buildup which can lead to plant moisture stress in the leaves etc.
> 
> So i guess it does serve a few different purposes in your garden. Id say to keep using it if you are happy with your results. You dont need much of it either which is nice since its very inexpensive to begin with. I think gallons of organic blackstrap unsulphure molasses is only like 20-30$ and you need only a couple tablespoons per 5 gallons of water. So the benefits definetely outweigh the cost as a whole and I think you should definetely keep it around for your girls.
> 
> Im looking into starting my own soils and using just teas to feed. So I will be purchasing a good amount of this stuff in near future myself.


Do you trust this guy? Is he a good farmer? Do you have any finish bud pics of his? Thanks for all the info you posted, definitely helpful.


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 14, 2015)

a mongo frog said:


> Do you trust this guy? Is he a good farmer? Do you have any finish bud pics of his? Thanks for all the info you posted, definitely helpful.


He gets very good results. He taught me how to grow, not gonna toot my horn but im helpin him now awadays with things. But he been using the same gh 3 part formula w molasses for as long as ive known him. He has other recipes fox farm and botanicare also but he always goes back to that for some reason idk man haha. He swears by it. 

Next time hes done w a run ill take some pics and post em for yah. He wont want me taking pics at his place i can tell yah that but i can get u some finished product shots. Some strains like certain nutrients better than others I find. The strain he runs love the GH he has it down to a science. Its an old recipe that many ppl on internet proly have or use or version of it im sure. Just tweak it to his liking. I dont do GH 3 part not a fan but its tried n true.


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 14, 2015)

He grows in promix also w just castings and adds dolomite to mix some perlite thats bout it. And he uses atami bloombastic but evrrything else is GH nutrient wise. And the molasses


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 14, 2015)

He might still use the fox farm big blool or whatever the early bloom formula is if i remember correctly than the bloombastic at the end. Its a pretty simple recipe


----------



## a mongo frog (Jul 14, 2015)

Cannabil said:


> He might still use the fox farm big blool or whatever the early bloom formula is if i remember correctly than the bloombastic at the end. Its a pretty simple recipe


What strain?


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 15, 2015)

Dr. Who said:


> Kid has cranial rectal inversion.....
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I dont care about light saturation point i dont grow outside. I dont really give a shit whether or not i know anout auxins cytokinins and giberillins because im an idiot remember. I dont care that light saturation stop the increase of atp and photosynthesis, i dont care that high P bloom foods in early bloom will lead to premature leaf drop and that you think bcuz u read a book or are buddies w ppl on this site that u get to pick and choose who can talk and knows what they are doing.

If ur such a big dog expert grower you should have ur own book, ur own nutrient line ur own strains and ppl appreciating ur help and information.

I like a 3-1-2 or a simple 1-1-1 for veg
Depending on what stage im in
And a 1-3-2 for bloom or 1-2-2
All depends i usually am around those numbers


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 15, 2015)

a mongo frog said:


> What strain?


The g13 haze skunk


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 15, 2015)

Oh you and this unlce ben guy are buddies so im assuming that gives u free reign to be judge and jury and be the gate keeper of all posts u dont agree with?

See this is America its a free country with principles that provide and protect out rights so I can do say and comment freely on whatever I please without prejudice.

People can listen to whatever they decide if they think my information isnt go so be it. This is my experience of growing for long time and im good at what I do. Ive helped many taught and learned been around the world and im still here so i must be doing something right.


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 15, 2015)

There so many different npk formulas that work for growing theres not one right ratio thats better than others they all work as long as they are balanced and have a complete nutrient portfolio. Saying theres one right way to grow is complete bullshit if that was the case there wud be only 1 book, 1 bottle of nutrients and thats it.

Different strains require different nutrients, some like heavy feedings with nitrogen and calcium some are magnesium hounds and some dont like much of anythig in abundance.

Theres also different flowering stages that require different nutrient ratios for early bloom - mid bloom and ripening so you cant possibly say one npk ratio is all u need when thats not the case.

I never run a high P fert. I run high nitrogen and potassium depending on stage im in the phosphorus isnt needed anywhere near the amounts of the N or K.

But u know all so u should know this. If u use synthetic nutrients and u dont flush ur an idiot and ur finished product proly burns n tastes like shit. U dont need flush w organics but i prefer to flush for 2 weeks always.

And yes i use "pk boosters" for a week or so to ripen and produce tight hard flowers bcuz it works. Period


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 15, 2015)

Flushing and stripping all fan leaves off the last 7-10 days before harvest absolutely works and the science is simple to explain and understand.

When you are growing using synthetic nutrients via soilless mediums the final 2 weeks you stop flush medium w 1/4 strength nutrients on day 1 of flush to get rid of salt build up and break down whatsever left in your container.

* hydroponics just straight water for 2 weeks this is for growing in soilless mediums container growing drain to waste systems*

You let the medium dry out thoroughly than follow it up with just enzymes and ph balanced water to break down all the nutrients that still remain for 1 week.

I than strip all the fan leaves off the plant for a simple reason. When you stop feeding at the roots what does your plant do?

It starts using the stored nutrients that remain in your leaves to try and pull all remaining resources into your flowers. Thats why you do this after 1 week of flushing so it draws up and depletes the leaves turning them the nice yellows, purples, red colors etc..

The finall week of flush when all fan leaves are off you use just plain ph'd water and continuously let them dry out completely. Notnonly does removing the fan leaves deplete the nutrients and stop them from getting into your flowers it also triggers a hormonal response like an insect or animal attack which responds by producing resins to protect the flowers from predators. Than you add in the fact your drying out the containers so additional resins are built up i like to dry them out completely for final 3 days no water at all. This produces 10% reson production increase on your flowers.

Removing these fan leaves also aids in ripening and finishing up the lower under developed flowers on the bottom and middle of your plants. So you can harvest everything at once doing this for the final 2 weeks ensures everything will pretty much be done and ready to harvest at the same time.

I also like to begin lowering the humidity down to about 35-40% for the final week which also aids in developing the resin glands and trichome production leaving you with a beautifully ripened and matured plant that has minimal nutrients stored in the med giving you full flavor and superb clean smoke. Doesnt burn and crackle like heavily unflushed plants which taste like crap and leave bad after taste from salts n chem in ur mouth.

im only speaking about soillless mediums and hydroponic style growing. I dont know how well a flush would work on a organic soil garden. I dont think you will benefit as much as growing this way by flushing and I dont feel it is an necessary anyways since plants taking up only what it needs and isnt being force fed via roots every time you feed etc..

Anyone who says you dont need flush running synthetics has alot to learn and understand about producing quality grade A smoke


----------



## Budley Doright (Jul 16, 2015)

I thought this was about CO2 hmmm what happened? LOL. And for what its worth I brew a worm casting tea for my hydro setup and it seems to make the plants quite happy with a pretty amazing root structure but never have done a side by with a sterile res so quite ancedotal. I also run just straight bene's and results are pretty much the same just more costly.


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 16, 2015)

Budley Doright said:


> I thought this was about CO2 hmmm what happened? LOL. And for what its worth I brew a worm casting tea for my hydro setup and it seems to make the plants quite happy with a pretty amazing root structure but never have done a side by with a sterile res so quite ancedotal. I also run just straight bene's and results are pretty much the same just more costly.


Shit i messed up this wasnt supposed be in this thread I had a bunch of alerts and threads going I thought I was responding in a different one my apologies for posting that here.


----------



## greasemonkeymann (Jul 16, 2015)

Cannabil said:


> There so many different npk formulas that work for growing theres not one right ratio thats better than others they all work as long as they are balanced and have a complete nutrient portfolio. Saying theres one right way to grow is complete bullshit if that was the case there wud be only 1 book, 1 bottle of nutrients and thats it.
> 
> Different strains require different nutrients, some like heavy feedings with nitrogen and calcium some are magnesium hounds and some dont like much of anythig in abundance.
> 
> ...


so just to be clear you are saying molasses stabilizes ph, removes salts, and I should flush (with 1/4 strength nutrients) after adding high phosphurus and high potassium nutrients, is this correct?
And having an even NPK throughout the grow WON"T work?
Just making sure I understand your point of view fully.
When you say "pk boosters" you are referring to something with high amounts of phosphorus and potassium?


----------



## Dr. Who (Jul 16, 2015)

Cannabil said:


> There so many different npk formulas that work for growing theres not one right ratio thats better than others they all work as long as they are balanced and have a complete nutrient portfolio. Saying theres one right way to grow is complete bullshit if that was the case there wud be only 1 book, 1 bottle of nutrients and thats it.
> 
> Different strains require different nutrients, some like heavy feedings with nitrogen and calcium some are magnesium hounds and some dont like much of anythig in abundance.
> 
> ...


Oh sigh, I just have to

They do not REQUIRE any difference other then HOW you feed them.....More or less of a quality balanced nutrient.
Some feed more, some less. It's up to you to do that properly.
Yes I can! I build a water only soil - the NPK never changes.....MANY of us simply use a 3-1-2 ratio fert with all the needed micro's...It's all you really need - good balanced nutrition! You've fallen for that Nutrient company BS..."You'll do better with this and then this and don't forget to add that!" That's ALL BS dude!
Yes you do! You even SAY SO in this color!
WHAT? That is old school hippy MYTH! 
IT'S ALL IN THE CURE!!!!
Well I already mentioned this one.....But, it's another thing that really isn't needed.....Oh it might work a tad if done very very sparingly......Nah, not worth the inflated price your friends with the labs and glossy propaganda mags and the multi page adds full of over inflated claims that make people like you believe in snakeoil..

Sorry, but if you answer like a fool,,,,,,,,
Boy,,with that post....I do wonder if it's old pic?

Doc


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 16, 2015)

In my short time on here Ive learned a few things.

1) people are cheap
2) people think every company who sells nutrients are crooks
3) its your way or everyone else is wrong
4) God forgive anyone who disagrees with the masses and cult followers a few of you members seems to have
5) everything that costs more than 20$ is "snakeoil" or over priced
6) "pk boosters" are gimicks and dont work (I disagree, they do work when used properly the problem is people abuse them because they dont understand how and when to apply them. They only need to be used for a couple feedings at certain times and that it. Any more can fck ur shit up)
7) flushing is wrong (i also disagree, i stated my explanation earlier. Pretty cut and dry)

And last but not leaste ppl love to argue and tell other ppl they are stupid bcuz they use diff methods to grow and dont follow the same formulas or products u use. Its ridiculous how grown adults act over caddy shit.

Theres more than 1 way to do things. Youre opinions and ways are not the only right way. Stop actin like your God's of growing and u invented cannabis cuz anyone who thinks they know everything is full a shit.


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 16, 2015)

greasemonkeymann said:


> so just to be clear you are saying molasses stabilizes ph, removes salts, and I should flush (with 1/4 strength nutrients) after adding high phosphurus and high potassium nutrients, is this correct?
> And having an even NPK throughout the grow WON"T work?
> Just making sure I understand your point of view fully.
> When you say "pk boosters" you are referring to something with high amounts of phosphorus and potassium?


Molasses conditions soil, provides food for microbes, and can aid in stabilizing your mediums from salt build up this is what I said.

I never said anything about flushing after using pk boosters. I said "I flush" when i run synthetic nutrients and I start with 1/4 strength to break down the salts remaining in medium. Followed by the enzymes and water. I explained it so it was very easy to understand, dont know whats confusing about it at all.

Yes you can use a 1-1-1 to feed I said U can use different ratios during the different stages of growth.

Yes pk boosters can be used to ripen and set flowers beginning of flower cycle. I use them and I get flower and bud set in 3-5 days and they enable me to switch to bloom very quickly. I than use them for a feeding or 2 during the end of the main flowering stage before ripening to bulk and harden flowers usually around wk 6. And yes it works "for me"! It aint how everyone does it but it does work. 

Theres more than one way to grow u guys can do ur way im talking about what I do. Thats my opinion and that is it.


----------



## a mongo frog (Jul 16, 2015)

Cannabil said:


> Molasses conditions soil, provides food for microbes, and can aid in stabilizing your mediums from salt build up this is what I said.
> 
> I never said anything about flushing after using pk boosters. I said "I flush" when i run synthetic nutrients and I start with 1/4 strength to break down the salts remaining in medium. Followed by the enzymes and water. I explained it so it was very easy to understand, dont know whats confusing about it at all.
> 
> ...


Two different grow styles you guys are arguing about


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 16, 2015)

a mongo frog said:


> Two different grow styles you guys are arguing about


Trust me im not trying to argue im not interested in arguing or gettin into any debate with someone who comes out of nowhere and wants me to do a question and answer so he can analyze whether or not he thinks i answered his questions correctly.
I b the first to tell u i dont even know half the bs he was asking me to answer and i dont think many ppl i know wud be able to answer it either and we all grow really good meds.

So idk what he is trying to get at, but i got my way of doin things he can stick to what he does im not losing sleep over it and most likely ill just be ignoring any other posts he tries to direct towards me.

Im a license care giver i obviously grow good meds its what i do for a living. I have a partnership in my state w a dispensary that i provide for full time and im good. So whether this guy thinks he knows more than me about botany or horticulture bcuz he knows about how many hormones his plants using and producing doesnt mean anything to me. Its not something you even really need to know to be honest.

You have a good light, stable medium with good ph and give plants a good base nutrient and thats all u need to grow. All this over analyzed technical shit is for the birds. Its not a business or a hobby u need a phd to figure out at the end of the day its all about keeping shit simple. I use basic one part nutrients and a few additives and keep good beneficials and microbes that provide a good environment for my roots and im all set lol. 

These guys come on and get all technical and scientific about something that is not that complicated. Were growing plants not building nuclear reactors and plutonium driven space ships. U can be a middle school drop out and figure this shit out. It aint that serious


----------



## Dr. Who (Jul 17, 2015)

Cannabil said:


> In my short time on here Ive learned a few things.
> 
> 1) people are cheap
> 2) people think every company who sells nutrients are crooks
> ...


Interesting last line there.....Every thread you walk into....You take it over like your the GOD,,,,It's "your right" and you argue that someone else that answers is wrong........Defoliation..A hands on approach......is a perfect example.....Your the one answering questions in that godly manor... And by the way,,,,,I've done the defoliation side by side - It's NOT worth the result.....Overblown and simply another "logic" myth......

Hell yes I'm cheap,,,,I look for every way I can save $ in my grows.....And the #1 way is to not buy into the BULLSHIT that most nutrient companies spew forth......Advanced is the worst! Do their products work? Yes, but your paying to much for to little and many of the "wonder" chem's you _flat out_ don't need to get "The best result possible".....Then you have H&G. Another one for having lots of parts that "must have"..to get "their best" results.....FAH! What crap! Cyco out of Aus. Another lots of parts and way to expensive maker...._Works great,,,but you can do just as good for far less_! The way you talk, shows you believe that to do well you have to use this and that and buy factory made, lab invented nutrition.....More Horse shit!
That should about cover 1 through 6....

Now on 7, Flushing......Let me guess. You "tested" the diff and found flushing better......Sure, ok, fine...LOL

Flush away dude,,,,,do what you believe......Flushing multiple gallons of water per gallon of pot size does NOTHING to improve flavor or the burn! Using a flushing agent - Simply puts money in the makers pocket and does the same nothing to flavor...Name me one,,,ONE thing farmed in soil or hydro that gets flushed before any human consumption? How about any other smoked plant? Where did this flushing idea come from? Logic? Logic doesn't work well in growing.....Why does this work?

Please explain WHY flushing works? Can you do it all uncomplicated......I would prefer you do it with the science of why it works.....Or does removing nutrition from your plant at a critical time get cancelled by your need for "flavor"?...

Anyway,,,after I read this retort....I'm on ignore.

DOC
"Crazy Shit"

P.S. Molasses is another overrated/overstated old school semi myth.....It does FAR less then you state.....Feed the Bio's, yup that's right, for the most part......Where the hell did you get "condition's the soil?"

Oh, and BTW. When I mention "Ben". How do you "know" just who I'm referring to?
I am becoming more and more convinced that this is PIC......The one thing you don't address is that one....Not to mention you type like the same crap he did....Hmmm


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 17, 2015)

Dr. Who said:


> Interesting last line there.....Every thread you walk into....You take it over like your the GOD,,,,It's "your right" and you argue that someone else that answers is wrong........Defoliation..A hands on approach......is a perfect example.....Your the one answering questions in that godly manor... And by the way,,,,,I've done the defoliation side by side - It's NOT worth the result.....Overblown and simply another "logic" myth......
> 
> Hell yes I'm cheap,,,,I look for every way I can save $ in my grows.....And the #1 way is to not buy into the BULLSHIT that most nutrient companies spew forth......Advanced is the worst! Do their products work? Yes, but your paying to much for to little and many of the "wonder" chem's you _flat out_ don't need to get "The best result possible".....Then you have H&G. Another one for having lots of parts that "must have"..to get "their best" results.....FAH! What crap! Cyco out of Aus. Another lots of parts and way to expensive maker...._Works great,,,but you can do just as good for far less_! The way you talk, shows you believe that to do well you have to use this and that and buy factory made, lab invented nutrition.....More Horse shit!
> That should about cover 1 through 6....
> ...


Listen idk who "Pic" is or some code name for something but I dont care.

Im not interested in arguing man. You obv believe what you believe and thats all good. We have agree to disagree. 

I dont use flushing products at all never said I did. I said I use enzymes and water. Once heavy metals are in your flowers from heavy feeding synthetics the shit isnt gonna flush out regardless. But you can flush out and reduce the extra salts and nutrients stored in the leaves and plant by just using water for final weeks. Last time i checked no nutrient companies make money off of telling you to flush with water for 2 weeks. 

If flushing didnt work companies wud want u to keep feeding more nutrients wudnt they? They wud want u to run nutrients all way til end more money for them. Most companies who know tell you to flush for minimum 1 week why is that if it doesnt work? 

Its a redundant point just like defoliation. You say it doesnt work I say I know it does. 

Since u want me to answer questions, answer this one question: do you think when growing large plants indoors that you should lollipop your plants? 

The answer is YES, and lollipopping is a form of defoliation. You are removing branches and leaves that dont get light and will never grow good quality flowers. So u remove them to focus on the upper canopy. This is defoliation.

Some strains when you order them via seed in their instructions will even tell you out right. If u grow this strain in scrog style or heavily packed areas you may want to defoliate to increase light penetration and reduce risks of molds and fungus. Defoliation isnt just used for increasing yields, strains susceptible to molds and fungi benefit from defoliation reducing the risks for problems in your garden.

Defoliation began NOT IN CANNABIS CULTIVATION, but is a horticultural practice in harvesting legumes, "beans", tomatoes, peas, apples etc..

If u grow tomatoes u should know damn well that on a leaf set when the flowet clusters form usually in groups of 4-5 flowers that will turn into tomatoes. If u remove 3 of them and focus on growing just the other 2 your tomatoes will increase in size by redirecting the energy and focus on those main fruit sites.

People use these techniques and brought them indoors into cannabis gardens and said if this works on all these other plants for farmers it shud work for us. So they tried it and realized removing lower, light deprived branches and shoots drives production of the upper canopy forcing larger denser flower production. Its not hard to understand man it really isnt. Theres tons of information on the web at book stores anywhere regarding this subject. And its not just for cannabis it goes for alot of plants and farmers who use defoliation techniques of all kinds.

These are all types of defoliation:
Lollipopping
Selective leaf removal
Site and branch removal

And listen i never said that defoliation is the end all be all of increasing yields etc. i said I defoliate because the strains im running respond well to it and I see a difference in my final product. Nothing but premium quality flowers, if u grow for quality and want nothing but chunks that u need to get ur money to give dispensaries and patients all that fluff is just a waste of time and draws away nutrients and energy from the shit u want to focus on which is ur tops. 

Some strains dont like defoliation and can lose yield and fck the whole plants metabolism and growth completely. This is especially true for most sativa strains. I dont grow those I grow indicas primarily or hybrids. Strains that are meant specifically to grow indoors.

Outdoors you dont need to defoliate, theres ample amounts of light and plenty of space, air flow etc.. And u dont wanna defoliate outdoors because bugs will also move up your plant into your main canopy given the chance. Thats just one small reason on a large scale. Defoliation is just one tool and trick to focus and grow only premium top shelf flowers by driving all energy and resources to the part of the plant receiving all the light where all the photosynthesis, auxins and hormones are being driven. Since cannabis grows via apical dominance that hottom shit no matter how much light u have will never be anything.

So defoliate the shit take it off and grow out nuttin but chunk tops. Its a simple process and it works. Idk what the arguments about. Either u do it and u benefit or u dont do it and u got tons of larf and shit to trim at the end. And reduced bud size and potential at ur canopy. 

So how can u say it doesnt work when its practiced and books written about it from master growers all over the world man.

Cmon dude just stop it. I understand ur rant about nutrient companies, i get it. They want u to over feed and use all kinds of products u dont really need. Well ur a sucker if u buy the shit u dont need. 

I buy the shit from them i do need and that I like. Growing for along time and I know what Im feeding my plants and use a mixture of products from various companies not just one lineup. I never recommend anyone to use just str8 one nutrient line some product are better in different groups and classes and u shud find shit u like the best.

Molasses does condition the soil. If u know the definition of condition maybe you would understand it better.

Condition: the state of something, especially in regards to the appearance, quality, and working order

Conditioner: a substance or appliance used to improve something's condition

Molasses is a substance, that aids in improving the condition of your soil by supplying microbes and beneficial a healthy environment to populate, break down nutrients and thrive.

Molasses also contains potash, sulphur and many other trace elements in quantities available to your plants.

Molasses also acts as a natural chelating agent and helps turn unusable nutrients into useable easily absorbed forms by breaking down the soil and conditioning it to make it more sustainable and hospitable to microbial life.

Maybe ignorance of the words is whats making my posts hard for u to understand ny apologies. Figure since u like using big scientific words to describe a weed plant u wud know simple and common household terminology such as condition.


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 17, 2015)

If you grow synthetics and u dont flush go put a flower in ur microwave and turn it on. Ive seen flowers using Heavy 16 and dynagro shoot sparks off the flowers from so much metal content in their products.

Try it out and see for yourself. There videos of it online also. And I know someone who does lab testing for quality control for some dispensaries out west that test for that shit and its crazy how much metals and shit are left in flowers that arent flushed out. Theres plenty of reports and information regarding this topic available to anyone who researchs it.


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 17, 2015)

States like Washington have made companies release their real contents. People argue that plants cant tell difference between synthetics and organic nutrients"salts are salts" and this is true to an extent. But its not just the salts that plants absorb its all the extra shit in synthetic ferts here one website with many common ferts including the real date regarding toxins and heavy metals. Which is why its good to flush you grows for 2 weeks to reduce the amounts of shit and contaminants in ur garden.

http://agr.wa.gov/PestFert/Fertilizers/docs/rptFertHMWebCurrent.pdf

Theres plenty of sites and information u canfind on the subject. 

U want to smoke that shit go ahead but im all set.


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 17, 2015)

Also at the end of the day. Regarding NPK ratios. Many different ratios work for growing and theres no one right ratio over another.

As long as u provide the proper nutrients and they all work together to produce a good aerobic environment with positive and negative ions that work together. Your plants will grow properly without issue.

Some plants like more nitrogen than other, some like more calcium some like more magnesium, so how can one ratio be the end all be all? It cant thats why theres different formulas and nutrients like GH 3 Part that allow u to change the ratios according to ur plants needs.

Also different plants absorb nutrients at different Ph levels, so thats another factor. Just because its all same type of plant different strains and breeds require many different things to get goood end results.

Theres no magic formula anywhere that will produce the same results on different varieties. If that was the case there wud be 1 nutrient company that dominates the industry and everyone wud know about it and there wud b no competition. This simply just inst the case and thats for a purpose because there is no such thing.

If u think all plants like the same ratios and same ph and environment than u have alot more learning to do than i thought to begin with.


----------



## greasemonkeymann (Jul 17, 2015)

Cannabil said:


> Molasses conditions soil, provides food for microbes, and can aid in stabilizing your mediums from salt build up this is what I said.
> 
> I never said anything about flushing after using pk boosters.* I said "I flush" when i run synthetic nutrients and I start with 1/4 strength to break down the salts remaining in medium.* Followed by the enzymes and water.* I explained it so it was very easy to understand, dont know whats confusing about it at all.*
> 
> ...


I was just clarifying, no need for the ass-pain.



Cannabil said:


> Flushing and stripping all fan leaves off the last 7-10 days before harvest absolutely works and the science is simple to explain and understand.
> 
> When you are growing using synthetic nutrients via soilless mediums the final 2 weeks you stop flush medium w 1/4 strength nutrients on day 1 of flush to get rid of salt build up and break down whatsever left in your container.
> 
> .* Than you add in the fact your drying out the containers so additional resins are built up i like to dry them out completely for final 3 days no water at all. This produces 10% reson production increase on your flowers.*


Just making sure I got you fully, I tend to have problems digesting certain... um... theories.
a 10% resin increase for simply not giving them water for the last three days!
Wow, I gotta try that!


----------



## Dr. Who (Jul 17, 2015)

Cannabil said:


> Im not interested in arguing man. You obv believe what you believe and thats all good. We have agree to disagree.
> Its a redundant point just like defoliation. You say it doesnt work I say I know it does.
> Since u want me to answer questions, answer this one question: do you think when growing large plants indoors that you should lollipop your plants?
> The answer is YES, and lollipopping is a form of defoliation. You are removing branches and leaves that dont get light and will never grow good quality flowers. So u remove them to focus on the upper canopy. This is defoliation.
> ...


You seem to like to read...so ok, don't take my word for it. READ THESE - really read them!

https://www.rollitup.org/t/no-lower-budsites-do-not-need-light-to-develop-get-educated.829061/

https://www.rollitup.org/t/light.853779/

......If you don't know who Uncle Ben really IS...then your labeling of MASTER GROWERS all over the world is crap......Jorge Cervantes says NO to even fan leaf removing ....Isn't HE a "master grower" who writes books?

Look, I'm only giving you a place to read about a counter view and it's BY master growers! TAKE A LOOK!

This is not an argument. This is me sharing info put better then I can right now, with my blood pressure up (not by you for the most part. HAVAC company pushed my instal back again).

I agree we disagree!

Ignore has begun

Doc
"Crazy Shit"

BTW, some of your answers are pretty good.. I am finding some "respect".... I'm adding crazy shit to my sign off.....In honor of you....


----------



## potroastV2 (Jul 17, 2015)

Fine, "Doc" we've heard from you. Thanks for that, and we'll also thank you for ignoring this thread from now on. Your antagonistic responses are detracting from the subject. We've heard your emphasized rants, and you are not being respectful.


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 18, 2015)

Dr. Who said:


> You seem to like to read...so ok, don't take my word for it. READ THESE - really read them!
> 
> https://www.rollitup.org/t/no-lower-budsites-do-not-need-light-to-develop-get-educated.829061/
> 
> ...


Jorge Cervantes does talk about defoliation and selective leaf removal. He might not defoliate to the extent others do. He is also only one person amongst many master growers.

Ed Rosenthal defoliates, Kyle Kushman defoliates plants almost completely at certain times. I could go on and on but those are house hold names ppl will know. Im sure you watched or seen Remo the Urban Grower the majn AN grower jn Canada allof them defoliate. Erik Biksa I could go on and on. These are world reknown growers in the industry. So telling me one person out of 5 that I mentioned say not too so what.

Like I said its a never ending argument, you dont need to do it. But if people want to do it and they do it properly it works. Like i said before you dont need to defoliate outdoors, this is an indoor technique used to increase yields. Where space, height and light is a limiting factor. Focusing all energy onto light penetration and defoliation increases yields its a proven fact theres nothing to argue about. Everyone I know does it, I do it and many others also use this technique to increase yields indoors. 

Thank you


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 18, 2015)

greasemonkeymann said:


> I was just clarifying, no need for the ass-pain.
> 
> 
> Just making sure I got you fully, I tend to have problems digesting certain... um... theories.
> ...


Yeah try it out. Obviously not every plant is gonna get that much increase but it will increase resing production if you do those few things. Remove all fan leaves final week of flush, Let them dry out completely 3 days, lower humidity down to 35% and turn lights off for final 24-36 hours. And u will get a bast increase in resin and trich production. This is sceintifically proven and has been researched and studied and it works.


----------



## Cannabil (Jul 18, 2015)

Any time u stress a plant during flowering whats is its natural defense mechanism? It produces resins that coat the flowers to ward off insects and animals. They also produce resins to stop light penetration that harm the flowers. Especially uv-b lighting. Plants will increase resins to coat and protect the pistils and flowers. Resins insulate the plants from losing moisture and protecting it from high heat and winds be reflecting it off the flowers. So obviously using these stress techniques will enhance trich and resin production.

Idk the exact numbers but thats a ball park increase that has been noticed in lab studies. I didnt say ur increasing thc content by 10% i said it increases resin content making them appear frostier because it coats the flowers for protection. Its not a hard concept to understand its fairly simple and straight forward


----------



## chuck estevez (Jul 20, 2015)

so, is c02 good for clones or not?

I'm with Doc on this one, this guy is a know it all, just like pik booster2, He takes over threads and acts like he is new, but has info like he's been here for a while.
His views are that of a nute salesman, can't stand em.


----------



## bravedave (Jul 20, 2015)

My winter grow this year, in a semi-sealed room, with a semi-sealed cloning cabinet within, received no fresh air except 0 to 2 times a day when I would open the door for seconds to check on them. During flower, that same grow. I turned over the rooms air 3-4 times a day, running my exhaust/passive intake for 5 minutes. The grow was MORE than fine. Finer with more co2? Maybe.


----------



## Dr. Who (Jul 20, 2015)

rollitup said:


> Fine, "Doc" we've heard from you. Thanks for that, and we'll also thank you for ignoring this thread from now on. Your antagonistic responses are detracting from the subject. We've heard your emphasized rants, and you are not being respectful.


Sorry Boss.....I got pissed at his retort to the alternative "Sweet" formula I gave..
I lost respect for him a few threads back.....
He is ignored from now on.


----------



## greasemonkeymann (Jul 20, 2015)

rollitup said:


> Fine, "Doc" we've heard from you. Thanks for that, and we'll also thank you for ignoring this thread from now on. Your antagonistic responses are detracting from the subject. We've heard your emphasized rants, and you are not being respectful.


I would safely say the disrespect is being reciprocated though.
Some misdirected even.


----------



## jecdev (Aug 4, 2015)

Truth4:20 said:


> Everyone's a scientist.


He could not be MORE wrong either....lol


----------



## jadashi (Jan 31, 2016)

It definitely helps in a stealth situation but timing is critical... The clones must be past their transitional period and all needs to be scaled up accordingly which is sometimes a bit tricky (I use a time drip system and never exceed 1000ppm co2 ) while measuring nutrient fluctuation to nail the sweet spot... very hard to teach actually unless you have mapping of strain principles down

D.O and nute temps must be optimum though or you won't get that seamless transition and end up oxymoroning yourself... 

it's also very effective at reducing moss... 

PEOPLE STILL FLUSH? ohhh dear


----------



## jonro (Feb 22, 2016)

Wouldn't a few deep breaths into one of the vents, closing straight after, 2-3 times a day be just as good? Or am I overestimateing how much c02 we exhale?


----------



## Budley Doright (Feb 22, 2016)

jonro said:


> Wouldn't a few deep breaths into one of the vents, closing straight after, 2-3 times a day be just as good? Or am I overestimateing how much c02 we exhale?


Yes, your over estimating.


----------

