# Veg to Flower different transition techniques.



## victimfactory (Apr 27, 2012)

So as I have gone down the learning road of growing I have used and heard alot of different opinions on ways to transition from a veg to flower.
At first i started out like most everyone else and just did a straight transfer from 18/6 one night to 12/12 the next, I used the with good success as do alot of people.
Next I tried doing a multi day dark period transfer from 18/6 to 12/12 with 2-3 days of darkness in between. This method also seemed to work pretty well.
As i was growing I took a trip to British Columbia with my buddy to stay with his relatives who are pretty heavy into bud. While we were there he was transitioning from veg to flower but he was COUNTING BACK the hours. The transition he used counted back an hour every day for 7 days until he reached 12/12 then he would leave it and they would go crazy. 
As i think about it does slightly imitate the changing of summer into fall it makes alot of sense so i tried it.
I've gone through a couple of grows doing this transition and I think it works the best I'm seeing a fairly quick onset of flowering as well as less stretching which i like.
I thought this would be an interesting thread to start cause it seems everyone has a favorite transition style and it seems to me to make a difference.
So
What way do you use?
Have you heard of any other ways?
What works best for you?

Happy growin Vic.


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## MyndMy (Apr 27, 2012)

I am a guerilla grower or rather was now I grow indoors but did love the results of the sun is had been wondering about that everyone says that their plants stretch after switching to 12-12 I will take mother nature's plan and run with it all the way down till 12-12 for six weeks then 11-13 the last two weeks


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## NnthStTrls (Apr 27, 2012)

I taper back as well. Quote from my current grow journal: "I went from 18/6 down to 16/8 for 2 days. Then down to 14/10 for 3 days before finally moving into 12/12. That's just how I do it and the plants seem to respond well." I think it helps because when I hit 12/12 sex always shows within just a few days versus the week or two it used to take just jumping right into 12/12.


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## scroglodyte (Apr 27, 2012)

I hit the button that says "timer"
the end


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## Trelliscrazy (Apr 27, 2012)

i flush the veg nutes out about a week to a week and a half before the flip that way they are getting used to the flowering nutes so that the day i do the flip i can bump to like 1200-1300 ppm but i gas-lantern then jump straight to 12/12 so far some sugar coated shit


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## MyndMy (Apr 28, 2012)

Trelliscrazy said:


> i flush the veg nutes out about a week to a week and a half before the flip that way they are getting used to the flowering nutes so that the day i do the flip i can bump to like 1200-1300 ppm but i gas-lantern then jump straight to 12/12 so far some sugar coated shit


Do they take long to show sex or are u buying female seeds


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## del66666 (Apr 28, 2012)

im strictly 12-12 from seed but this time im also cutting the light down to 9 hours by end of harvest


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## MyndMy (Apr 28, 2012)

Are you gonna ween them off slow over a week losing more time along the way or all at once.


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## dvs1038 (Apr 28, 2012)

@ Space Ghost shouldn't you already be able to tell the sex of ur plants before u put them to 12/12 or do u just do a really short veg?


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## del66666 (Apr 28, 2012)

MyndMy said:


> Are you gonna ween them off slow over a week losing more time along the way or all at once.


slowly down over 3-4 weeks


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## Trelliscrazy (Apr 28, 2012)

less actually only about 5 or 6 days


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## NnthStTrls (Apr 29, 2012)

dvs1038 said:


> @ Space Ghost shouldn't you already be able to tell the sex of ur plants before u put them to 12/12 or do u just do a really short veg?



Nah. Not really. A month. Maybe more sometimes. I usually run fem seeds though so I don't worry about preflowers.


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## MyndMy (Apr 29, 2012)

Nice $50.00 females that's what they cost at the end of the block!


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## dvs1038 (May 22, 2012)

Ok so Y'all talked about ur Light cycle transition from veg to flowering but I'm also curious about what ppl do with their nutes when transitioning from veg to flowering. Do you just switch from one another, do u gradually tapper off ur veg nutes while increasing ur bloom nutes, should you go with straight water before and during ur light transition(if u have a light trans)?


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## del66666 (May 22, 2012)

veg nutes til week 2 of flower then bloom for me.........


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## alotapot (May 22, 2012)

del66666 said:


> veg nutes til week 2 of flower then bloom for me.........


 Agree 100% 

alp


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## del66666 (May 22, 2012)

alotapot said:


> Agree 100%
> 
> alp


you must be the first ever person to agree with me.....


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## norcalking530 (May 23, 2012)

What are your thoughts on transition from fluorescent lighting to hps. From veg to flower?. Would it be better the last two weeks of veg switch the light, so the plants have some time to cope? What are we thinking...?


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## dagwood1 (Dec 30, 2012)

I'm new to this, my plants are 8 weeks old, is that a good time to start switching them? They are pretty good size.


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## badbackbill (Dec 31, 2012)

I did the 18/6 to 17/8 to 16/8 for a day 15/9 for a day 14/10 for a day 13/11 then 12/12 and it seemed to slow down the "super stretch" you get from straight flipping to 12/12. It seemed to add bud sights. I should have done a more precise experient but it was my best crop to date. 2.25 per light. But there are so many facts involved its hard to say that was the desiding factor to get the extra .25......... I'm doing it again this time......... Why change anything after a crop like that


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## badbackbill (Dec 31, 2012)

I do drain to waiste soil
topped once a week befor the slow flip
veg for 6 weeks from clone
1500ppm co2
Nute ppm 400-450 veg 
flower. Ppm 500-700( depends on my run off ppm)
15 gal pots
2 weeks in 1 gal pots
2 weeks in 5 gals
2 weeks in 15 gals then flip
i also main line
veg water sched every 3 days 
Flower every 2 days 
4 gals of nute water each
straight water once a week
6.5 ph for the full cycle until later bud down to 6.2
strain BC seed kings "PURPS"


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## Greggos88 (Dec 31, 2012)

I read in the grow bible that growers do an extra long dark period just before switching to 12/12 like 18-36 hours of darkness. Has anyone actually implemented this?


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## Adr19n (Jun 12, 2016)

Bump


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## Tactical Farmer (Jul 24, 2016)

I'm doing 24 hr dark before 12-12, several foliar sprays of this n that while they are resting. 

Figure that will give them a quick boost for stretch / transition phase.


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## applepoop1984 (Aug 1, 2016)

Extended dark periods (24-48 hours darkness) have been shown to induce flowering faster. 

Basically lights main effect is storing energy in the leaves. During dark the plant is building itself up. So as long as your leaves arent light green 48 hour dark before 12/12 is perfectly fine


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## Dr. Who (Aug 6, 2016)

Oh brother.


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## bravedave (Aug 6, 2016)

When I started the guy who got me going does 5 days dark...yep 5. It has served him for 20+ years. That was the only odd technique he shared so I too asked the masses here a couple years ago. The general consensus was that anything over 24hrs is probably wasted effort. I did do a side-by-side with 3 days dark vs. flip immediate and there DID _seem_ to be an advantage in bud starting with the dark ones. Was always going to do a more controlled test but just never have. I now just do 24hrs of dark or so. Doesn't kill'em...but neither does 3 or 5.


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## jellero (Aug 8, 2016)

Blackout the greenhouse? I was skeptical of this when I went by a neighbor's and he had his greenhouse covered with black plastic. He does this every year, covers it up for four days, uncovering so that light was 12/12. That was about ten days ago and today I went over and he told me to come look ar his buds. My plants in my greenhouse, unmolested are just showing some white hairs and mapping out the colas. His have real buds, a month ahead of time. I told him I thought they would revert back to veg once back to about ten hours of sun. We shall see about that. Does anyone else do this? Opinions? Have to admit those plants, buds are amazing. It sure would help with the cold coming soon to have the plants finish in September. John


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## jellero (Aug 9, 2016)

I meant to say, revert back to 14 hours, not ten.


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## BobCajun (Aug 10, 2016)

Since plants burn off all stored starches within 24 hours, it seems counterproductive to use more than 24 hours dark. There's not a huge difference anyway, from going directly to 12/12. It just takes about 2-3 days for flower inductions to start taking effect if the plants had been in long days immediately prior. It's the long hours of light that produce the inhibitory effect, rather than the short nights. Anything over about 10 hours of light straight will do that. I don't know for sure if it's the same with Cannabis. If so, then 1 or even 2 long nights won't produce any flowering effect at all, somebody could test that to see it's true. If not, then I guess you wouldn't need an extra-long dark period to hasten flowering at all.

Here's a pdf about flower induction in another short day plant, beans. I assume the effect is similar for most short day plants. I've read the same type of thing in other articles about other plants. In this article they show the effects of long days interspersed with short days, but it gives you the general idea about the inhibitory effect. The other articles were about long days before the start of flowering though, I just don't have links for them or remember their names right now so this will have to do. Basically they found that the first couple inductive cycles had no effect when going directly from long days to short.

An interesting thing in that article is where it shows that they got as much or more budding (of beans) from a cycle of 8 hours light, 40 hours dark (treatment # 25 in Table 1) as from two days of 12.75/11.25 cycles (treatment 8.). So if that works with Cannabis, you would only be using 8 hours of light in 2 days, or 4 hours a day. Now, I don't think an 8 hour light period would be enough for Cannabis, but what about 12/36? Would that turn out the same as 12/12/12/12 with half the hours of light?

I don't have enough space or plants for testing stuff out like that, but maybe someone reading this does. Could turn out to have sacrificed a plant for nothing, if it grows really poorly. What I said about starch being burned off in 24 hours was regarding plants grown in normal photoperiods before the 24 hours. Plants adjust their rate of starch burning based on how long the night is expected to be. Though a plant's internal "clock" is based on a 24 hour day, maybe it can adjust to a 48 hour day after a few cycles. I would still expect some reduction in yield, but how much is the question.


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## jellero (Aug 11, 2016)

Third day- I am using two contractor bags per plant,55 Gallon, 2 mil. With a wooden stick next to plant/ pot. I cover at 6:15 along with dinner chores, to real dark.I swear I saw the buds getting thicker a little this morning.


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## Odin* (Aug 11, 2016)

BobCajun said:


> If so, then 1 or even 2 long nights won't produce any flowering effect at all, somebody could test that to see it's true. If not, then I guess you wouldn't need an extra-long dark period to hasten flowering at all.


Hey Bob, many moons ago I went about testing various flower inducing photo/darkness phases. What I found, and keep in mind this is universal (at least, amongst hundreds of strains I've tested), is that the plants react favorably to 24 hours of dark pre-12/12. There is, indeed, physical expression of the onset of flower. You will see yellowing at each of the bud sites. This is due to the plant utilizing local nutrients as the "catalyst" to flower development. Anything beyond the initial 24 is a detriment as the deficit in nutrients/photosynthesis slows flower development. So, 24 hours of dark is the "point of diminishing returns". Testing took place over the course of ~5 years, been on 24 hours pre-12/12 for ~10 years. Before that, I hovered between 48-72 hours.

I noticed that someone mentioned a foliar feed during the initial 24 (recently, this thread, or another). Very close to what I do. I hit them before lights out, then again with a "light friendly" feed when the lights first come on. Almost no yellowing at bud sites, which means they do not exhaust the available nutrients. Yellowing is also gone after the first lights on foliar. You will notice a difference in initial flower development and overall flowering time.

You're welcome.


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## Dr. Who (Aug 16, 2016)

jellero said:


> Blackout the greenhouse? I was skeptical of this when I went by a neighbor's and he had his greenhouse covered with black plastic. He does this every year, covers it up for four days, uncovering so that light was 12/12. That was about ten days ago and today I went over and he told me to come look ar his buds. My plants in my greenhouse, unmolested are just showing some white hairs and mapping out the colas. His have real buds, a month ahead of time. I told him I thought they would revert back to veg once back to about ten hours of sun. We shall see about that. Does anyone else do this? Opinions? Have to admit those plants, buds are amazing. It sure would help with the cold coming soon to have the plants finish in September. John


 Yeah, right!


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## Dr. Who (Aug 16, 2016)

How fun, extended darkness myth reproduction......A whole new heard of believers in transitional darkness myth are being born...

Any body see anything about such claptrap in their Nelson's greenhouse guide? No? I wonder why ?? 

If this was true, wouldn't there be notification of such in available printed material? 

How interesting. I found in a paper in the publication of the _AMERICAN SOCIETY OF PLANT BIOLOGISTS_ that extended no light times may actually cause _more_ expressed stretch.

Here's something interesting - same paper:

shows that leaf production that is orchestrated by the SAM was unaffected, while internode length, which is regulated by the RM/RZ, was altered by overexpression of _PHYA_.

It basically states that some proteins and RNA's are over expressed and some Hormones are under expressed but, stored and released in bulk causing some increased nodal length expression.

Lets keep looking for more info.

An observation of less working stroma cells produced in the early "burst" of growth when light is reintroduced after extended non lighting times. Something like a reduction around 8-14%. 

The conclusion actually indicates that the poster on page 1, who reduces his lights on time by an hr a day may actually _keep_ the plant photosynthesizing at around 10% *more* after transition - then those of us who reduce all at once and more so over those who do an extended lights out time! *Interesting...*

Ok I spent enough time on this subject, researching papers.

My conclusion is still that extended lights out times for transitioning to bloom is not effective to reduce bloom times or reduce the stretch.
I did, in fact, find some evidence that slowing the transition _will_ do these proposed ideals! I should say that the days used to slowly reduce will most likely be taking up the bulk of any time reduction. There should be some but, 10% is not likely. I am more interested in the reduction of the stretch as being an actual result.

Damn, now I have something else to try when I get back to my runs.....

@RM3 - take a peak at this post - found something interesting!
I searched for "Plants Impaired in State Transition" as a basic paper search.


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## RM3 (Aug 16, 2016)

Dr. Who said:


> @RM3 - take a peak at this post - found something interesting!
> I searched for "Plants Impaired in State Transition" as a basic paper search.


Will do, thanks for the heads up.

I use Gas Light to veg as it actually does reduce stretch and finish faster


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## Odin* (Aug 17, 2016)

Current research supports a prolonged period of darkness pre-12/12. Manipulation of photoperiod responses by inhibiting phytochrome reactions (through prolonged darkness) in turn inhibits ELF3. This promotes early flowering, stem elongation, and increases yield.

Not going to go into detail, this happens by upsetting the plants circadian rhythms which are governed by the light cycle. "Evening Complex", ELF3 combining ELF4 and LUX, PIF4 and PIF5.

Also, Long Days vs Short Days and High intensity vs Low prior to flowering; Long Days at High intensity shorten the onset of flowering and the time between onset and maturity. So, shortening the "Lights On" period gradually to acclimate the plant(s) has a detrimental effect, not beneficial.


"Google" it, there is plenty of info out there if you use the terminology.


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## jellero (Aug 18, 2016)

Went by my neighbors yesterday and the buds were well over an inch in diameter and long. I have no idea what is going on but it is hard to believe a switching then for four days would do this. I grow from seed, he buys clones. My greenhouse is open, lots of light with clear plastic, his is crowded, just some old fiberglass panels, no air flow and I noticed a bunch of fungus flies. maybe my plants are just behind?


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## Odin* (Aug 18, 2016)

jellero said:


> Blackout the greenhouse? I was skeptical of this when I went by a neighbor's and he had his greenhouse covered with black plastic. He does this every year, covers it up for four days, uncovering so that light was 12/12. That was about ten days ago and today I went over and he told me to come look ar his buds. My plants in my greenhouse, unmolested are just showing some white hairs and mapping out the colas. His have real buds, a month ahead of time. I told him I thought they would revert back to veg once back to about ten hours of sun. We shall see about that. Does anyone else do this? Opinions? Have to admit those plants, buds are amazing. It sure would help with the cold coming soon to have the plants finish in September. John





Dr. Who said:


> Yeah, right!



And then there is this response?! Do you have any green house experience. No question mark, it is not a question, it's clear that the answer is "No, none what so ever".


Here's why I say that;

"Photoperiod manipulation can be achieved in the greenhouse with relative ease. When the day length is long but a short day photoperiod is desired, blackcloth fabric may be pulled over plants in the evening and opened in the morning to provide plants with a short day. This is the same technique used in fall mum production to promote earlier flowering of chrysanthemum when days are naturally long. Growers may utilize existing blackout systems used in fall mum production to provide short days for other crops."



Link- http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/light_and_flowering_of_bedding_plants



This is why there it is so difficult for new growers to get started on the right foot, too many people chiming in that don't really know what they are doing, or even why they do it. The answers provided should consist of "I have umpteen years of experience, all of my testing concludes this, and ALL of the peer reviewed science available supports my findings". Then we could all be on the same page, instead of spinning wheels.


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## Richard Drysift (Aug 18, 2016)

I recently started manipulating light cycles before the flip to increase bud size slightly. I read about this in skunk magazine & had to try it in my perpetual. Many times I have to wait until there's space in the bloom room because there are plants that need more time to ripen so I have an extra grow tent I use for transitioning to bloom phase not only to shorten time in the bloom area but also to increase total yields. The simple trick is to lower the hours of light by gradually increasing dark by one hour or more in the weeks before flipping to bloom phase. I veg at 18/6 as normal from seed or clone until the plants are almost to size I want to flip em at. Then they go in the transition tent set to 17/7 for at least a week maybe 2 or even longer depending upon space availability. Each week I can either decide to place them in bloom or keep reducing the hours of light by one hour a week. This promotes very tight nodal stacking which results in slightly larger buds once they fill in. I used to just flip to 12/12 from 18/6 which makes some strains stretch out until there are lanky bare spots in between the nodes. The more gradual transition mimics the Suns natural cycle towards mid to late summer which results in slightly larger flowers. Try it it works though maybe not so easily in a greenhouse as it in indoors.


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## jellero (Aug 20, 2016)

Just ran into my neighbor down at the river and talked about this gh blackout. Now he tells me it is 20 days, not 4... And in mid June to start with the blackouts. That makes a lot more sense but too late for this year. J


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## THE KONASSURE (Aug 20, 2016)

I go from 16/8 or 18/6 or 14/10 or even sometimes 12/12 veg 

to 

10/14 or 8/16, don`t see the point in 12/12 waste of electric to me for indoor around an 8 to 10 hour day seems more than what most strains need to flower up 

Running the veg days longer is ok as the veg uses far less power 

like 400/600w vs 1200 to 2000w 

Biggest choice I normally make is what to feed, what boosters to give and if I pot up a week or 2 before putting them into flower or just pot them up in a bigger pot the day I put them into flower 

potting them up and putting them right into flower means they can take a little longer to finish but then you don`t get them drinking the pot dry as fast so you can do a bit less watering 

Yeah you yield a bit more but my 30 to 60L (some 80L) flowering sacks are much bigger than my 5L to 15L vegging bags... so you know the extra room can mean more seeds to pop or more clones 

kinda balances out yield/time wise plus means you get a few more flavours so most of the time I put up and go right into bloom, maybe leave one to veg up a bit more and use as a mum if it vegged really nice.


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## Chunky Stool (Aug 20, 2016)

del66666 said:


> veg nutes til week 2 of flower then bloom for me.........


I run veg nutes the first two weeks after the flip. Then either taper off or go with all bloom @ week 3. It depends on the plant.


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## darkzero (Aug 20, 2016)

I run high nitro guano 8-1-1 and Indonesian guano 0-7-0 first 2 weeks of flower maybe espoma bulb tone 3-5-3 because it last 2 weeks, after that bloom nutes on like 0-7-0 guano in conjunction with 0-10-0 jamaican guano,after week 3 week 4 is when I hit with pk boost 4-12-0 bone meal, 1-13-6 vermicrop booster with those 2 guanos. afterwards depending on how the plants react, look decide on what to do


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## Chunky Stool (Aug 20, 2016)

darkzero said:


> I run high nitro guano 8-1-1 and Indonesian guano 0-7-0 first 2 weeks of flower maybe espoma bulb tone 3-5-3 because it last 2 weeks, after that bloom nutes on like 0-7-0 guano in conjunction with 0-10-0 jamaican guano,after week 3 week 4 is when I hit with pk boost 4-12-0 bone meal, 1-13-6 vermicrop booster with those 2 guanos. afterwards depending on how the plants react, look decide on what to do


Well I'm glad it's not complicated! 
I like the 0-7-0 guano too, and it's got a decent amount of calcium.


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## darkzero (Aug 20, 2016)

Chunky Stool said:


> Well I'm glad it's not complicated!
> I like the 0-7-0 guano too, and it's got a decent amount of calcium.


best thing to do is keep it simple, don't overthink it


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## Chunky Stool (Aug 21, 2016)

darkzero said:


> I run high nitro guano 8-1-1 and Indonesian guano 0-7-0 first 2 weeks of flower maybe espoma bulb tone 3-5-3 because it last 2 weeks, after that bloom nutes on like 0-7-0 guano in conjunction with 0-10-0 jamaican guano,after week 3 week 4 is when I hit with pk boost 4-12-0 bone meal, 1-13-6 vermicrop booster with those 2 guanos. afterwards depending on how the plants react, look decide on what to do


Is bone meal a good choice for PK boost? I thought it took a while to release phosphorus. 
For PK boost I used Sea Grow flower & bloom (4-26-26) on my last crop & it was perfect. Weeks 5 & 6 only.
Sticky & stinky, it's the best medicine I've grown so far!


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## darkzero (Aug 21, 2016)

Chunky Stool said:


> Is bone meal a good choice for PK boost? I thought it took a while to release phosphorus.
> For PK boost I used Sea Grow flower & bloom (4-26-26) on my last crop & it was perfect. Weeks 5 & 6 only.
> Sticky & stinky, it's the best medicine I've grown so far!


all espoma slow release if I put in now dont have to put in later just water right now mine is 5-42-6 if I add maxicrop soluble seaweed 0-0-17 it will be 5-42-23 but since I watered with it 2 weeks ago no need


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## purplehays1 (Aug 21, 2016)

THE KONASSURE said:


> I go from 16/8 or 18/6 or 14/10 or even sometimes 12/12 veg
> 
> to
> 
> ...


I have found yield directly correlates with the amount of light given. Ive tried 10 hrs and 8 hrs of light opposed to 12 and noticed my yields were proportionally lower. Unless you have a heat issue, or some other reason besides energy, i believe it is best to stay 12/12


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## purplehays1 (Aug 21, 2016)

ive even flowered at 13/11 accidentally because im retarded and timers are complicated. And the plants produced slightly more than in previous runs, this is not recommended cuz many strains wont flower under 13 hrs of light.


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## darkzero (Aug 21, 2016)

purplehays1 said:


> ive even flowered at 13/11 accidentally because im retarded and timers are complicated. And the plants produced slightly more than in previous runs, this is not recommended cuz many strains wont flower under 13 hrs of light.


No worries I did that too last run cus of timer issue and got 2 diff monster phenos out of it same strain


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## mr sunshine (Aug 21, 2016)

Chunky Stool said:


> I run veg nutes the first two weeks after the flip. Then either taper off or go with all bloom @ week 3. It depends on the plant.


I use the nitrogen rich stuff into week 4 or 5 of flower. They fade on me when I use flower nutes.


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## Chunky Stool (Aug 21, 2016)

mr sunshine said:


> I use the nitrogen rich stuff into week 4 or 5 of flower. They fade on me when I use flower nutes.


Healthy green leaves are the best bloom booster. Also makes it much easier to re-veg after the chop.


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## mr sunshine (Aug 21, 2016)

Chunky Stool said:


> Healthy green leaves are the best bloom booster. Also makes it much easier to re-veg after the chop.


definitely.


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## Dr. Who (Aug 21, 2016)

Odin* said:


> And then there is this response?! Do you have any green house experience. No question mark, it is not a question, it's clear that the answer is "No, none what so ever".
> 
> 
> Here's why I say that;
> ...


Oh yes, I know.. We had a hinged system on the one's worked right after school. Kinda like a sun shade on a motor home. This was the roof cover. The old German who ran it - build the system too. Not to hard to use, but rather cool.
Standard seasonal green house fair......Interspersed with tropical's shipped up for wholesale to small shops and stores....The place was getting close to 100 years old when the old German who did died. Took over for 3 years right after school.
The old arch topped original's - we could not do light manipulation well. Mostly just light whitewashing for intensity reduction in the summer. The newer domed one's had the equipment. Owner died in the late 80's and the place closed in 10. His kids were dick's and ran it into the dope money drain, or so was told by old employee's.....

The "month" ahead thing, kind of stretching it.....Prob. more a poor understanding of expressing his thought/point.


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## Chunky Stool (Aug 21, 2016)

mr sunshine said:


> definitely.
> View attachment 3763059


Is that a reveg?


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## mr sunshine (Aug 21, 2016)

Chunky Stool said:


> Is that a reveg?


Yea. Its a gsc bagseed that ended up being fire.


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## Odin* (Aug 22, 2016)

@Dr. Who I hadn't "expanded" the quote to see the "highlight" until after the fact. Makes sense now (I spotted that before your response, bad taste... my foot in my mouth).

A month, very well could be true. Too many variables to say otherwise.

Pardon my "snippy" response (earlier).


I say a month is possible due to the fact that I can shave a couple, to a few (or more), indoor.


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## Dr. Who (Aug 22, 2016)

Odin* said:


> @Dr. Who I hadn't "expanded" the quote to see the "highlight" until after the fact. Makes sense now (I spotted that before your response, bad taste... my foot in my mouth).
> 
> A month, very well could be true. Too many variables to say otherwise.
> 
> ...


Interesting to be sure. Been awhile since I did real greenhouse work.....The yew farm had many plastic one's use for propagation.

Been toying with the idea (now that the kids are gone to college) with using the round frame of the old trampoline as end frames (tops) for a home built one - 2 sided plastic as friends with a flower/veg. greenhouse have the plastic welder and the plastic source needed to do it right! Not really a big unit but, 2 or 3 _big outdoor plants_ would fit nicely. Make outdoor in my area actually possible to run out right and with proper budding..Say a wood boiler - outside for the heat source.....Got an older unused one I can employ. Just have to find the time and not get a wave of discontent from the wife.....

You're "pardoned" lol, Been nice "chatting" with you. 
I have interest in your work. Certainly not any contempt!


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## THE KONASSURE (Aug 25, 2016)

purplehays1 said:


> I have found yield directly correlates with the amount of light given. Ive tried 10 hrs and 8 hrs of light opposed to 12 and noticed my yields were proportionally lower. Unless you have a heat issue, or some other reason besides energy, i believe it is best to stay 12/12


Well I have some issues 

one is watering my caretaker is lazy and will let them dry out sometimes less light means less watering, then there's the power bill as well as heat and bugs more light hours and I get more bud issues 

plus the plants flower faster under an 8 to 10 hour day over a 12 

ok I may yield a wee bit less but I get my yield finished faster and the bud is fresher than if I ran 12/12 for the same amount of time or a big longer, it`s all about what strains your running, what lights, air exchange, how your feeding them and 

how much you have to trim off and how good the end bud looks, smells and vapes up 

for my current grow I notice a 16 to 18 hour veg and an 8 to 10 hour flower seem to work best 

as for the autos we`ve had outside soaking up the uk summer in a green tent will 200L of coco under them...... well they look good for auto NL, never seen one of them get over 4ft before, lol


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## DrGhard (Aug 26, 2016)

it works the same either way. plants need few days of transcriptional reprogamming anyhow when they sense the change in the photoperiod (which itself takes few days). so i don't think either method is "better" or "worst". the argument that in nature light transitions gradually does not hold much value due to how plants sense the changes in photoperiod.


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## jellero (Aug 28, 2016)

here is neighbor's gh after the 20 day blackouts to 12/12 light. those buds are over an ounce each i'd say, some are over 12" long. this was almost a week ago...


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## vintagedvd (Oct 28, 2018)

BobCajun said:


> It's the long hours of light that produce the inhibitory effect, rather than the short nights. Anything over about 10 hours of light straight will do that.


That it's wrong, and the gas lantern routine proves it.


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## beacher (Oct 29, 2018)

I keep my MH conversion bulb in and keep feeding veg nutes for the first week or so. I find it helps to keep them shorter and loads them up on nitrogen for the weeks to come.


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## 710allday369 (Aug 7, 2019)

Chunky Stool said:


> Well I'm glad it's not complicated!
> I like the 0-7-0 guano too, and it's got a decent amount of calcium.


Hey if you use unsulfured black strap organic molasses and some epsom salt it will do wonders. as long as you check your Ph here and there. but molasses has a good bit of calcium and iron in it and the epsom salt has good amounts of magnesium and sulfur 

710


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## Chunky Stool (Aug 7, 2019)

710allday369 said:


> Hey if you use unsulfured black strap organic molasses and some epsom salt it will do wonders. as long as you check your Ph here and there. but molasses has a good bit of calcium and iron in it and the epsom salt has good amounts of magnesium and sulfur
> 
> 710


I quit using molasses in favor of dark brown sugar. Much easier to handle and doesn't change PH at all.


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## 710allday369 (Aug 7, 2019)

Chunky Stool said:


> I quit using molasses in favor of dark brown sugar. Much easier to handle and doesn't change PH at all.


is the ratio the same? like a tblespoon per gallon


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## Chunky Stool (Aug 8, 2019)

710allday369 said:


> is the ratio the same? like a tblespoon per gallon


No, much less. 
I would only use a tablespoon per gallon if I was making AACT.


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## 710allday369 (Aug 13, 2019)

I got another question? how do i change light cycle from (6am-6pm) to 6pm-6am) on a clone that has been flowering for just a week or so, no bud formation yet. 


710


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## 710allday369 (Aug 13, 2019)

beacher said:


> I keep my MH conversion bulb in and keep feeding veg nutes for the first week or so. I find it helps to keep them shorter and loads them up on nitrogen for the weeks to come.


so intead of feedin them nitrogen for 6 weeks into, just two weeks and they get shorter?


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## DoobieDoobs (May 14, 2021)

Hey guys, when you transition from veg to flower do you guys increase light as well? Like if your light has a dimmer, do you turn it all the way to 100%? Or do you gradually do it?


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## xtsho (May 15, 2021)

DoobieDoobs said:


> Hey guys, when you transition from veg to flower do you guys increase light as well? Like if your light has a dimmer, do you turn it all the way to 100%? Or do you gradually do it?


I go straight from T5's to a 600 watt HID. The HID ballast is dimmable but I go straight to the 600. You're probably referring to using LEDs but I go from 220 watts of T5 straight to 600 watts of HID without any issues.


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## DoobieDoobs (May 15, 2021)

xtsho said:


> I go straight from T5's to a 600 watt HID. The HID ballast is dimmable but I go straight to the 600. You're probably referring to using LEDs but I go from 220 watts of T5 straight to 600 watts of HID without any issues.


alright, I'll go full power, I hope my plants can take it.


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## xtsho (May 15, 2021)

DoobieDoobs said:


> alright, I'll go full power, I hope my plants can take it.


That's just what I do and I start with the plants farther from the light than normal and let them grow into it. Plant reaction to increased LED intensity is going to be different than T5 to HID so distance will play a part in whether your plants can take it. I don't grow with LEDs but I would probably raise the intensity gradually rather all at one and risk causing stress to the plants.

Good luck.


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