# What Additives Do You Use?



## Stoner Smurf (Jan 24, 2011)

Not counting your base nutes what additives do you use? The plant gets all the macro and micro nutrients it needs from the base nutes (if you're using good nutes) so what purpose does your additive serve? I am curious how many of these additives are snake oil. I am talking about things like, Roots Excelerator, Bud XL, molasses, etc. Some additives have micro/macro nutrients too, like Bud Blood. Bud Blood is considered an additive right? Shouldn't good base nutes have all the nutrients the plant needs? I've used additives in the past but very few of them have given a noticeable result. Some of the best weed I've smoked has been grown with a 3-part or 4-part nutrient schedule. 

I am switching to hydro for the first time. I am using Dyna-Gro as my base nutrient, and I can't think of any additives that would be necessary. I've never used it but DG is suppose to be a good balanced nutrient that has everything the plant needs, and I've never seen an additive that has a noticeable effect. So, somebody try and sell me on an additive on top of the DG base.


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## poindexterous (Jan 24, 2011)

Hey Smurf,

Yeah the world of additives is vast and confusing, I used to be tempted by all the impressive claims on the bottles, but never observed any real benefit from any yet. Ready to try one if it does.....


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## SlimDigital (Jan 25, 2011)

I was advised long ago to keep it simple and stick to a 3 part mix, I use GH micro:veg @ 1:2 and micro:bloom @ 2:2. BUT i must admit in flower i use GH liquid kool bloom up to the last 2 weeks then swith to the kool bloom powder the week right before the last week then flush it all out for the ending week. The kool bloom makes the buds a bit harder or should that say denser.


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## Zcomfort (Jan 25, 2011)

I've never used additives during flowering, but I have notice the effects of it during the veg. I add fulvic acid(liquid Karma,diamond nectar) which helps prevent nute burn. Cal-mag for my RO water. I used silica blast and there was a slight strength added to the limbs and stem.


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## mamador1r (Jan 26, 2011)

i recently bought some snow storm ultra & i am impressed. already noticed a difference in soil & just started adding it to my hydro.


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## CoralGrower (Jan 27, 2011)

Stoner Smurf said:


> Not counting your base nutes what additives do you use? The plant gets all the macro and micro nutrients it needs from the base nutes (if you're using good nutes) so what purpose does your additive serve? I am curious how many of these additives are snake oil. I am talking about things like, Roots Excelerator, Bud XL, molasses, etc. Some additives have micro/macro nutrients too, like Bud Blood. Bud Blood is considered an additive right? Shouldn't good base nutes have all the nutrients the plant needs? I've used additives in the past but very few of them have given a noticeable result. Some of the best weed I've smoked has been grown with a 3-part or 4-part nutrient schedule.
> 
> I am switching to hydro for the first time. I am using Dyna-Gro as my base nutrient, and I can't think of any additives that would be necessary. I've never used it but DG is suppose to be a good balanced nutrient that has everything the plant needs, and I've never seen an additive that has a noticeable effect. So, somebody try and sell me on an additive on top of the DG base.


You have a mindset that is going to get you excellent results. I use Foliage Pro as a base nutrient. Since I use RO water, I also use Mag Pro to give a little bit of an increase in Mg. Finally, I use Pro Tekt; really nothing more than adding silicates, which is not a bad thing if you are growing anything green. When flowering, I'll use a 50/50 mix of Foliage Pro and Bloom. When the bottle of Bloom runs out, I am going to try using the General Purpose (7-9-5) as a flowering food as running 100% Bloom causes the plants to turn yellow (needs nitrogen). That's pretty much how simple it can be. Heck, I could probably stop using the Mag Pro and the ProTekt and still get excellent results.


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## canibud (Jan 29, 2011)

I am a fan of the flora series, never had a problem with them. I have also seen good results with miracle grow 20-20-20, simple is better less can go wrong. 
but ya micro,grow,bloom for me.. oh and ph up/down


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## kpw555 (Jan 29, 2011)

They are all VooDoo and magic sauce, don't need nothin but good base nute to grow kick ass dope.


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## cmt1984 (Jan 29, 2011)

i use bio-root, diamond nectar and molasses. the first time i used the diamond nectar, the next day my plants were noticeably healthier and bigger...not sure if the bio-root or molasses does anything but i'm gonna keep using them, they're cheap.


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## homebrewer (Jan 29, 2011)

Stoner Smurf said:


> Not counting your base nutes what additives do you use? The plant gets all the macro and micro nutrients it needs from the base nutes (if you're using good nutes) so what purpose does your additive serve? I am curious how many of these additives are snake oil. I am talking about things like, Roots Excelerator, Bud XL, molasses, etc. Some additives have micro/macro nutrients too, like Bud Blood. Bud Blood is considered an additive right? Shouldn't good base nutes have all the nutrients the plant needs? I've used additives in the past but very few of them have given a noticeable result. Some of the best weed I've smoked has been grown with a 3-part or 4-part nutrient schedule.
> 
> I am switching to hydro for the first time. I am using Dyna-Gro as my base nutrient, and I can't think of any additives that would be necessary. I've never used it but DG is suppose to be a good balanced nutrient that has everything the plant needs, and I've never seen an additive that has a noticeable effect. So, somebody try and sell me on an additive on top of the DG base.


If you're using DG, you don't need any NPK type additives or boosters. MagPro is for people who use RO water and ProTekt has a high pH which balances and stabilizes the pH of your reservoir. I use the 7-9-5 and 3-12-6 in different ratios throughout flower in order to keep the plants green, but I've also used Floralicious plus and florablend with good success. They are by no means needed but I've found that I get a stronger aroma and better resin production when using them. However, the final product doesn't seem to taste better or be more potent but I already have them so I might as well use them up.

Use DynaGro, learn what your plants like and don't overfeed. Once you've figured out what keeps your plants the healthiest, you'll probably find that you don't need anything else.


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## Canibitual (Jan 29, 2011)

I use AN, 3part plus b-52 (basic b vitamins)

I use bud candy in flowering, it sweeten's the flavor and smell... makes my SuperLemonHaze turn into sweet lemonaid... (budy said it smells just like an energy drink)

I have used "big bud", "overdrive" as well, but I can't really comment on how much they contributed to my grow... (I can say all togeather it was better than the 3part alone...


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## hellraizer30 (Jan 29, 2011)

GH floral G/M/B advanced big bud and voodoo juice great results so far, going to switch to avn GMB when the PH perfect stuff
comes out


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## Zcomfort (Jan 30, 2011)

hellraizer, thats a wicked avatar.


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## brownbearclan (Jan 30, 2011)

Right now I use MG tomato as a veg base, it's basically 20-20-20 then I add a little MG bloom during flowering. I've been using vinegar to PH down my water and it works, it just doesn't seem to hold well in soil and I end having to do a flush or two to get the PH back to normal. I'll be getting some actual PH down next run. 

I add:

-A few drops of Superthrive every watering during veg. stage.
-1 pinch of epsom salt once a week after 1st month or so from sprout.
-1TBS of molasses into hot water, then into the watering can once a week during flowering.
-1TBS of hydrogen peroxide per 1-2 gallons every watering.

Next run I will be switching to a hydro setup using Dyna-Gro's 2 part system and HP in the water to keep the roots clean. That's it! =)


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## devero420 (Jan 30, 2011)

I use liquid karma and hygrozyme, was thinking about adding a bloom supplement, but the plants seem fine. 

I think a lot of these companies just add stuff that is technically good for the plant, but actually does not get utilized or add any benefit outside of what is already present. As long as it doesn't kill the plants people start swearing by it and an industry is born.


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## burrr (Jan 30, 2011)

I use GH flora series, and add floralicious plus, flora blend, koolbloom, proteKt, hygrozyme, and starting today I'm adding flora nectar.

I am impressed with what pro-teKt has done for my plants. It was noticeable how stout and fast they grow when I added it to my mix.

I have been following homebrewers grows, and would love to see results like his. 

I would like to hear some opinions on sugar supplements like flora nectar, and sweet, etc.

Here is the product claim for floranectar:

FloraNectar &#8482;
Sweetener


Our scientists have formulated FloraNectar to optimize the greatest transference of sweetness and aroma into your fruits and flowers.

FloraNectar contains all natural raw cane sugar, molasses, malt syrup, select plant based esters, L-amino acids, organic acids, polyflavonoids, vitamins and essential minerals.

This unique blend of ingredients helps your plants regulate enzymes that trigger specific reactions involved in maintaining optimal metabolism. This allows your plants to achieve a balance between respiration and photosynthesis in high intensity growing environments where the rate of respiration can sometimes exceed the rate of photosynthesis.

As a result, FloraNectar ensures optimal metabolic rates during the flowering and fruiting phase when nitrogen levels have been reduced.

FloraNectar also promotes a sturdier plant structure during the vegetative phase when high levels of nitrogen are present.

FloraNectar fulfills the additional energy requirements of your plants throughout all phases of growth and during stressful times of transition.

And the claims for sweet:
Sweet helps plants maintain optimum metabolism and proper balance between photosynthesis 
and respiration. Plant physiologists have stated that low phosphorous to nitrogen (P/N) ratios 
favor vegetative growth, while high P/N ratios favor fruit development. Common practice is to 
reduce nitrogen for the final stage and increase carbon dioxide concentrations, temperatures, 
and light intensity during fruiting/flowering. These practices cause metabolic imbalance and 
decreased photosynthesis, resulting in soft, yellow-leaved plants. Sweet helps plants recover and 
flourish despite this sudden change. With Sweet, you&#8217;ll see sturdy stems with shorter internodes 
and an abundance of buds, flowers and fruits. 


Is it the sugars that are providing the balance between photosynthesis 
and respiration? Is this the same idea of balancing the osmosis pressure during flush with a sugar solution?
I read the ingredients on clearex, and its all sugars.... and smells like listerine.

I would love to have a better understanding of what these carbs are doing for my plants.


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## devero420 (Jan 30, 2011)

I have heard quite a few people say that sugar / molasses based products are no good unless you are an organic grower. The reason is that the sugars are not usable by the plants, but they do feed beneficial organisms that break down organic matter into nurtients that can be absorbed by the plant. Now I am not sure about sweet specifically. I bought some because it was bundled with something else, maybe I will use it. I know it really throws off your PH so make sure you test before giving it to your plants.


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## Rick Ratlin (Feb 1, 2011)

GH lucas formula, Floralicious Plus, Liquid Kool bloom, and Powder Kool Bloom, on the Blue Bonic Strain. ppm is low about 770ppm @ 700, how much does everyone boost their Lucas Formula to get to 1300-1400 ppm @700 or 2 ec


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## Zcomfort (Feb 2, 2011)

devero420 said:


> I have heard quite a few people say that sugar / molasses based products are no good unless you are an organic grower. The reason is that the sugars are not usable by the plants, but they do feed beneficial organisms that break down organic matter into nurtients that can be absorbed by the plant. Now I am not sure about sweet specifically. I bought some because it was bundled with something else, maybe I will use it. I know it really throws off your PH so make sure you test before giving it to your plants.


You don't need to be organic to use beneficials.



Rick Ratlin said:


> GH lucas formula, Floralicious Plus, Liquid Kool bloom, and Powder Kool Bloom, on the Blue Bonic Strain. ppm is low, how much does everyone boost their Lucas Formula to get to 1300-1400 ppm @700 or 2 ec


When you say @ 700 do you mean like the 700 and the 500 on opposite side of the bluelab meter. If so GH use the 500.


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## Rick Ratlin (Feb 2, 2011)

yeah z, exactly, i use a bluelab truncheon nute meter. 8 mL micro per gallon and 16 mL Flower per gallon give me an ec of 1.2 or 770 ppm (ec x 700) or 550 ppm (ec x 500) what number should I shoot for on the 500 side? is that personal preference, or because of GH nutes? Thanks for the knowledge.


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## Weedler (Feb 2, 2011)

Canna Rhizotonic (Veg) & Boost during Flower, rhizotonic really makes root come to life & boost just adds great bud growth both products barely raise PPM (maybe 15-20 PPM / 30ML)


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## Zcomfort (Feb 3, 2011)

Rick Ratlin said:


> yeah z, exactly, i use a bluelab truncheon nute meter. 8 mL micro per gallon and 16 mL Flower per gallon give me an ec of 1.2 or 770 ppm (ec x 700) or 550 ppm (ec x 500) what number should I shoot for on the 500 side? is that personal preference, or because of GH nutes? Thanks for the knowledge.


The other day I was looking at something on youtube about people sharing EC and ppm readings. First of all the EC is the most accurate, but the readings are only related to what your doing not what I'm doing or Bobby down the road. So I guess the readings can only relate to the plants, enviroment, grower. At the moment with my plants I run about .5-.8 ec.


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## masonite420 (Feb 24, 2011)

If you use additives correctly you can bring out all the plant has to offer......If you use a complete base nute the additives will def add frost and size on top of that....Creamy Goodness anyone?....peace


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## homebrewer (Feb 24, 2011)

Wolverine97 said:


> Hmmm. House & Garden isn't listed anywhere on the link you provided, and so far I haven't found the label, but I really doubt that there are only four elements in their Aqua Flakes line. H&G is a quality nutrient, I know several people who run it with great success. I'll keep searching when I get time tonight, that, or I'll go check the bottles at a friend's house and get back to you on that.


Here is the print Screen of A and B and just to compare, FloraNova is below. So where are the minerals at? 










FloraNova for comparison:


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## Icannabis (Feb 24, 2011)

The only thing I use is Dutch Master Zone and Sm-90. I don't count Magi-cal because it is a base nutrient. The reason is that they help my roots stay healthy and they are not hog wash...the Dutch Master is the same thing most good water supplies use to sterilize there drinking water with a few other things to keep the plants roots happy. The Sm-90 keeps all pest from messing with my plants and it's got some sulfur in it to help my plant stay healthy. Not to mention they are both chelating agents. I'm not a big fan of additives Homebrewer will a test to that. I think most people waste to much money trying to grow good bud with additives. I was going to try some silcia and fulvic/humic acid next grow. To see but I don't think anything will happen.


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## masonite420 (Feb 25, 2011)

Icannabis said:


> The only thing I use is Dutch Master Zone and Sm-90. I don't count Magi-cal because it is a base nutrient. The reason is that they help my roots stay healthy and they are not hog wash...the Dutch Master is the same thing most good water supplies use to sterilize there drinking water with a few other things to keep the plants roots happy. The Sm-90 keeps all pest from messing with my plants and it's got some sulfur in it to help my plant stay healthy. Not to mention they are both chelating agents. I'm not a big fan of additives Homebrewer will a test to that. I think most people waste to much money trying to grow good bud with additives. I was going to try some silcia and fulvic/humic acid next grow. To see but I don't think anything will happen.


Using silica and fulvic acid is a great way to naturally lower and raise ph. They also break down nutes for easier uptake(fulvic) and strengthen the plant tissue(silica)....Good idea...Peace


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## taipanspunk (Feb 25, 2011)

I use only:

Foliage Pro
Mag Pro
Pro-Tekt
Bloom Liquid
liquid grow (AS A SPRAY ONLY)

Great White Mycorrhizae


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## Canibitual (Apr 18, 2011)

I stopped using AN products, they were an expensive waste of money... they did not do what they were expected to do... for the longest time (2 years) I though I was doing something wrong, or some such nonsense...added more light, added CO2, nothing worked to get the size,density,quality up.... but I ended up switching to my own formula... and now popcorn buds turned into this... two tables side by side, all popcorn size buds on AN, the other soda can size buds, on a nute that costs about 2% of what the AN costs...... same light, same setup... only nutes were different.... I went exactly by AN's Calculator, flushed each week, used the 3part, b52, budcandy, big bud, overdrive... and it still sucked... same with a table of GH 3 part + AN Big bud, AN bud candy mixed...

best of all... my new mix is a "SINGLE PART MIX"... that's right, throw the whole mix into the res, ph, and call it a day.... I have a seperate mix for Veg, and a seperate mix for bloom time... the veg includes some extra Calcium, so it will work with RO water but RO isn't needed... you also only need to flush/refill once a month.... and you don't need any other boosters...

this also works very well in soil grows.. you'd mix 1tbsp per 5 gallons of water, and feed plants with it... (a 25gallon mix is 5tbsp)

25 gallon rez, cost me about $150 per month on AN (with all their extra's)
25 Gallon rez costs about $2 a month on my formula (1 tbsp per 5 gallons)

and this is the results Hard dense sticky buds FULL BUD, not just airy crud like AN



I'm thinking about Giving a few free sample packs out of the nutrients, to see if it's worth my time makeing this stuff into a package for sale... what do you guys think?...

even though its fairly cheap to make, I'd prob sell it for about 1/3 the price of the other solution would cost... (maybe $12 for a 25 gallon size, $30 for 3 month supply of 25gallons (1 veg formula + 2 bloom formula) also, since this mix is in powered form, the shipping would prob be free in the USA...


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## Canibitual (Apr 24, 2011)

LOL, guess nobody was interested in some free nutes... anyways... good luck with your grows...


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## drgreentm (Apr 25, 2011)

i use flora nova grow for veg (nothing else) and in flower i use flora nova bloom accompanied with hg bud xl from week 4 on till harvest at 1ml per L of water and i can say i am satisfied with the bud xl noticed buds where becoming denser, fuller, and a little heavier on the scale after a full cure so i guess i will keep using it lol.


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## R1Farmer (Apr 25, 2011)

GH 3 Part Flora Series and Botanicare CNS17 Series

Liquid KoolBloom or Botanicare Pure Blend Bloom
GH Flora Nectar or Botanicare Sweet
Bud Candy (currently experimenting)
molasses (currently experiementing)
CAL-MAG
Hygrozyme
Botanicare Silica Blast
Superthrive

Just bought a litre of AN OverDrive to the mix. Has anyone have experience using Overdrive in veg? I'm thinking of experimenting with that in my next cycle and fed it to my current cycle that is at Wk 5.


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## mikadodarkside (Apr 25, 2011)

Complete nutrient spectrum is more effective but not necessary. I used lucas at 150ppm for clones and 300-500ppm with diamond nectar, I would add a calmag and molasses, but whatever. I do use seaweed extract to stain roots every other week.flush every week or two. and i never h202 because if you need that shit, your doing something wrong... 

Ohh yea and i flush for 2.5 - 3 weeks before harvest. only way to really have tasty bud.

i think its more important to have a stable environment then provide every effective element.


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## Canibitual (Apr 26, 2011)

Thought I'd drop a better picture of those buds...

Infact, if you guys provide a pic of the buds you get... with what you use for nutes/additives it would be very helpful for everyone to see what kind of results you get with your setup... could be interesting...

View attachment 1571447

View attachment 1571448

View attachment 1571446


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## Canibitual (Apr 26, 2011)

R1Farmer said:


> GH 3 Part Flora Series and Botanicare CNS17 Series
> 
> Liquid KoolBloom or Botanicare Pure Blend Bloom
> GH Flora Nectar or Botanicare Sweet
> ...


 


Looks like you got quite a bit of overlaps...LOL

The Bottle for Bud Candy says it is mostly mag (although according (Homebrewer's Links) to the Reg commision hardly any actual mag)... , I'd bet that Flora nectar, sweet and calmag are all mostly mag... no real point in all three...

the AN overdrive didn't do anything for my setup when I was using AN's stuff... the only thing that really changed it was the bud candy due to the sweet smell (mag) but that ended up with a funky smell on my Super Lemon Haze when it was finished... not quite Lemon smell any more... to much candyish smell...

with your stuff, I'd say use the lucas formula, put alot of P and K in during flowering... and use a little of any of the Mag products .... unless you RO your water, the Calmag isn't really needed... there's quite a bit of Calcium in regular tap water...


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## jigfresh (Apr 28, 2011)

Stoner Smurf said:


> Not counting your base nutes what additives do you use? The plant gets all the macro and micro nutrients it needs from the base nutes (if you're using good nutes) so what purpose does your additive serve? I am curious how many of these additives are snake oil. I am talking about things like, Roots Excelerator, Bud XL, molasses, etc. Some additives have micro/macro nutrients too, like Bud Blood. Bud Blood is considered an additive right? Shouldn't good base nutes have all the nutrients the plant needs? I've used additives in the past but very few of them have given a noticeable result. Some of the best weed I've smoked has been grown with a 3-part or 4-part nutrient schedule.
> 
> I am switching to hydro for the first time. I am using Dyna-Gro as my base nutrient, and I can't think of any additives that would be necessary. I've never used it but DG is suppose to be a good balanced nutrient that has everything the plant needs, and I've never seen an additive that has a noticeable effect. So, somebody try and sell me on an additive on top of the DG base.


I use Dutch Masters Silica, Zone, Potash, and Max, also Humboldt County's Own Gravity, Bushmaster. Silica is simply a silica boost. Silica is supposed to make the cell walls stronger making the plant healthier and less prone to disease. The Zone is a tank sanitizer as I'm in DWC. I've always had white roots and clear water. Never any algae or root rot. Potash is just a boost of potasium to be used during flower. The Max stuff is the only thing I think is possibly bunk. It is supposed to be something to aid in the uptake of nutrients, whatever that means. I'm not sure if the max does anything, but it's not expensive so I'm ok with it.

Now the Bushmaster is the only thing I've seen work with my own eyes. That shit seriously stops 12/12 stretch on contact. No kidding I run it for 24 hours only at 1 ml/gal (i think that's the dilution I use) and the stretch just stops in it's tracks.

The gravity is supposed to make the buds fatter, frostier, and more dense. I've never done a side by side, but my buds do turn out quite dense since the first grow I've done. Plus one thing about gravity that I like is that you use less nutrients while you are running it. So it pretty much pays for itself.

That's what I got going. Four harvests so far and I couldn't be happier with how everyone has turned out.

peace

EDIT: forgot cal-mag. I run RO



Canibitual said:


> Infact, if you guys provide a pic of the buds you get... with what you use for nutes/additives it would be very helpful for everyone to see what kind of results you get with your setup... could be interesting...


Sour Kush

Oddysey

Querkle

Casey Jones

Sour Grape

Purple Kush

Hindu Skunk


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## Canibitual (Apr 28, 2011)

Gotta be careful with humbolt gravity in a res, if you have a air pump, turn it off when putting it in your res... it will Gunk up into a nice frothy white mess... the air pump activates something for mold or something.. I've had that happen... one res was perfectly fine, the other with the airstone was a nasty mess within 24 hours... and in a aeroponics setup it can be really nasty....


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## jigfresh (Apr 28, 2011)

Canibitual said:


> Gotta be careful with humbolt gravity in a res, if you have a air pump, turn it off when putting it in your res... it will Gunk up into a nice frothy white mess... the air pump activates something for mold or something.. I've had that happen... one res was perfectly fine, the other with the airstone was a nasty mess within 24 hours... and in a aeroponics setup it can be really nasty....


That's weird. I've never turned off my airpump at all and never had anything like that happen. Not sure if it's becuase I only use a little or if the zone keeps it in check or what. But yeah, been 5 grows so far with it, 3 dwc and 2 flooded tube and I've not once changed anything when the gravity enters... just cut back on the other nutes is all.


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## Beansly (Apr 28, 2011)

House and Garden full line
Aarde (soil) A&B
Magic Green 
Drip Clean
Top Booster
Multi Enzyme
Bud XL


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## Canibitual (Apr 29, 2011)

jigfresh said:


> That's weird. I've never turned off my airpump at all and never had anything like that happen. Not sure if it's becuase I only use a little or if the zone keeps it in check or what. But yeah, been 5 grows so far with it, 3 dwc and 2 flooded tube and I've not once changed anything when the gravity enters... just cut back on the other nutes is all.


yea, it's strange. I did it a couple times and couldn't figure out why it got a white frothy mess after 24 hours... but I looked it up and others had the same issue... 

on their lable of "purple max" it says...
http://www.marijuanapassion.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17261

*Hydroponic Application: *At this time hydro is a big unknown. One thing for certain. DO NOT USE AN AERATOR! If using PURPLE MAXX in a reservoir, it should be added the day before a reservoir change. Bests is to use the foliar feed method as far into bloom as possible.

another one....




> sounds like you are running Hydro. I like to use 2  2.5 ML / gallon in my
> reservoir and run it for about 3 days before I dump my reservoir. I have run my
> res both with and without air stones while using Snow Storm, Gravity, &
> Bushmaster. I always off-gas my R.O. water in another tank for 48 hours with
> ...


my guess is it has some of the same stuff to make microbes react with aeration... not sure why or what not... but sometimes it reacts badly.. might be a heat/humidity combination that makes it progressively worse....


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## Cali.Grown>408 (Apr 29, 2011)

Base- GH Flora *Micro, *Grow, *Bloom
Additives- *Seaplex, *Huvega, *Humega..from Bonticare's line ORGANICARE..*Hygrozyme
Boosters- AN's *Bud Blood, *Big Bud Powder, *Carboload, *Overdrive and Bonticare's Liquid Karma
-EVERY plant i grow see's all of these nutrient, additives, and boosters.


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## DW4174 (Apr 29, 2011)

I tried the Grotek Carbo Max but I did not like it because it did not say onit how much to use. So when I tried it it was very diluted (1tsp - 5 gallon), but even at that low concentration i can see a little difference in the buds on my white widow at 4 weeks. But I ran out of it so I dont have anymore to use on this grow. I want to try some bud candy from advanced nutrients.


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## Theophilus (Sep 9, 2014)

homebrewer said:


> If you're using DG, you don't need any NPK type additives or boosters. MagPro is for people who use RO water and ProTekt has a high pH which balances and stabilizes the pH of your reservoir. I use the 7-9-5 and 3-12-6 in different ratios throughout flower in order to keep the plants green, but I've also used Floralicious plus and florablend with good success. They are by no means needed but I've found that I get a stronger aroma and better resin production when using them. However, the final product doesn't seem to taste better or be more potent but I already have them so I might as well use them up.
> 
> Use DynaGro, learn what your plants like and don't overfeed. Once you've figured out what keeps your plants the healthiest, you'll probably find that you don't need anything else.


Guess I need to just K.I.S.S. and not look for 'enhancers' to spend my money on. Especially since I don't have much of it to spend at the moment, lol... Guess my only other decision should be whether to stay in coco but switch from my current recirculating situation over to DTW or use what I have and switch to hydro medium such as 6" rockwool cubes.


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## wirat (Sep 9, 2014)

Foliage testing in cannabis revealed calcium is more important (being higher in content) than nitrogen and potassium combined, (plants provide optimal nutrition to the newest growth, so the new growth is what's tested).

Sulfur contributes more to flavor and taste than any other element.

In nature (soil), plants get the same NPK from start to finish, right?. This is one reason why some have such great success using Foliage Pro from start to finish.

Dyna Gro has developed a process to combine essential elements in one solution, other manufacturers have not been able to figure out how to do this, (even after trying to reverse engineer Dyna Gro) so that requires you buy 2 or 3 products to get the same nutrients as in a one part, combined Dyna Gro.

Liebig's law "states that growth is controlled not by the total amount of resources available, but by the scarcest resource (limiting factor)." So that means any plant will only utilize (at a proportionate level) the scarcest nutrient available. That is why disproportionate feeding is wasteful. Many of the hyped nutrients are not necessary or do not get utilized by the plant because they create a disproportionate feed. (Why balance is more important than quantity)
Read summary here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liebig's_law_of_the_minimum

Over feeding is why flushing is needed in most cases, plants being fed the proper ratio and ppm of nutrients should not require it. (Why low ppm grows can be so successful)

But most of these aren't my words, they are from Dyna Gro's founder David Neal himself, been doing this a loooong time. Listen here: 




A great 30 minute interview from the CEO of Dyna Gro himself. Is he plugging the product? You be the judge. Read the comments and see the progress from growers here and compare to what he says, seems in line to me.


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