# Advanced Nutrients Big Bud Powder



## Tw3nti3ight (May 19, 2010)

All, I have recently started using AN Big Bud powder, rated at 0-15-40. I am curious if anyone out there is using this as well. I am looking for a bloom boost, intense smell and crystals and size. What is good out there?

Right now I am in soil with drip irrigation, I have a 25 gallon tub that is my reservoir...

My nute soup is AN Sensi Bloom A&B, AN Bud Candy, AN X-Factor, Cal/Mag Plus and Big Bud Powder. To keep it constantly mixin I have a third pump sideways spraying towards the ground.

I am finally onto a system that is working for veg and now my girls flowering, I am not noticing heavy crystals or resin, more very fine crystals and stink is pretty intense though...at least on my NYCD, my carmelicious is 18 days in and i am noticing the starts of crystals...buds are small but growing....

Any and all input is appreciated.


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## deflator (May 19, 2010)

A 0-15-40 is not what your plants will want going into flowering, I'll warn you of that. They need Nitrogen, so I hope another of those overpriced nutes has lots of N.


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## Tw3nti3ight (May 20, 2010)

P and K is for blooming, yes your plants still need N...and the Sensi Bloom A&B has N in it as well as P and K....

N is for vegetative growth, buds need P and K to bud, any flower, plant does.


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## Tw3nti3ight (May 20, 2010)

deflator said:


> A 0-15-40 is not what your plants will want going into flowering, I'll warn you of that. They need Nitrogen, so I hope another of those overpriced nutes has lots of N.


So you know, these plants have a part of their growth cycles called aggressive growth and bloom....thats when you increase dosage...I have tried blooming plants with mostly N rated at 5-1-1...buds didnt crystalize, no smell, looked deformed...

I hope you dont use just N for flowering....


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## Tw3nti3ight (May 20, 2010)

So you know these nutes may be somewhat expensive, however, they work, i just don't know about the powder...

Also, AN is Canadian based, where they can test and develop nutes specifically for MJ.....right ratio's and micro and macro nutes make the plants perform better...


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## deflator (May 22, 2010)

Way to buy into all the marketing. You used a 5-1-1 and you're lecturing me about nute ratios? LMAO

I never go above more than double one of the 3 macros to another except for PK boosts for fruit set. My program runs close to 1-1-1 the whole way through, with N bias in veg and PK bias in flower. My leaves stay lush dark green all the way through to harvest and I never drop one. My last yield was .12 gram watt above 1 gram/watt, with 3 plants and a 600w.

You asked for comments and then just repeated AN hype...get a book on plants


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## Puna Bud (May 22, 2010)

awesome brah! What strain were you growing, and were you feeding your girls organics? I assume your growing enviornment was well controlled too? 

I also feel sorry for those who buy into the marketing of some of these Nute companies. AN does it about as good as anyone, that's why they are able to charge so much. Unfortunately, AN isn't even the company it use to be! Years back, they were dependable. Now I think the best why to discribe AN is "Unstable". They are not very consistant with their products these days, and that shit has been going on for years!!!


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## T>H>C (May 22, 2010)

The Plants do need nitrogen during flowering to keep leaves alive they act as solar panels which create energy for plant processes, you don't need a fertilizer with 5-1-1 but a 2-7-7 would keep fan leaves alive much better so the plant could produce more energy for making buds and also have enough P and K for good bud production.


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## Tw3nti3ight (May 23, 2010)

deflator said:


> Way to buy into all the marketing. You used a 5-1-1 and you're lecturing me about nute ratios? LMAO
> 
> I never go above more than double one of the 3 macros to another except for PK boosts for fruit set. My program runs close to 1-1-1 the whole way through, with N bias in veg and PK bias in flower. My leaves stay lush dark green all the way through to harvest and I never drop one. My last yield was .12 gram watt above 1 gram/watt, with 3 plants and a 600w.
> 
> You asked for comments and then just repeated AN hype...get a book on plants


 
Ok if its Hype, its also just and N P K game....

should help with flower production, no?


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## Tw3nti3ight (May 23, 2010)

T>H>C said:


> The Plants do need nitrogen during flowering to keep leaves alive they act as solar panels which create energy for plant processes, you don't need a fertilizer with 5-1-1 but a 2-7-7 would keep fan leaves alive much better so the plant could produce more energy for making buds and also have enough P and K for good bud production.


Yes I totally agree, if AN is shitty, then they are, I will switch, was thinking of Tiger Bloom liquid anyway....

I agree with Nitrogen, I am not arguing that fact....I was merely trying to see if ANYONE else has used what I bought...or if someone could recommend something...that would be appreciated...my goal is sticky crystally buds...thats all. Not a Nute company war...


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## Tw3nti3ight (May 23, 2010)

Then I read this....

https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/120645-advanced-nutrients-sensi-parta-b.html

Its a forum of opinions ....


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## deflator (May 23, 2010)

I just try to steer people away from that crap. Alot of MJ specific products (like non-food boosters) are bunk. It's a surprisingly predatory industry. 

AN seems to spend more on marketing than the rest combined, while offering an array of products that overcomplicate everything. I think they just take the traditional 2 part formula and split it up into as many different things as possible. And then they try to make it all seem simple by providing feeding charts for every step, like you can practice botany like fixing a damn car or something lol

I wonder if anywhere in that chart it says to actually look at your damn plant and see what it needs?

I use Ionic because it's local, reasonably priced, and uncomplicated. 2-1-1 veg, 1-1-3 flower, blending the two from flower on, gradually phasing the veg down to about 20% the solution. That and a 0-5-6, also from Ionic, to promote those nice flowering stresses at select times. I also use Pro-Tekt from Dynagrow, its a silica supplement that helps with temps and mold. I use metro-mix because it's cheap and has coco AND peat, a best-of-both-worlds soil-less mix.


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## mygirls (May 23, 2010)

Tw3nti3ight said:


> All, I have recently started using AN Big Bud powder, rated at 0-15-40. I am curious if anyone out there is using this as well. I am looking for a bloom boost, intense smell and crystals and size. What is good out there?
> 
> Right now I am in soil with drip irrigation, I have a 25 gallon tub that is my reservoir...
> 
> ...


i use super bloom with the big bud


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## Tw3nti3ight (May 23, 2010)

Gotcha on AN and their bullshit....I am gonna stick with A and B for flower and veg....go from there, there is enough p and k based on your nutes....and, from that thread i posted....looks like AN is pretty strong, although my plants really arent burning..end tips very small though might be brown...so i am burning but i would rather be there than less...i grew with less and my shit sucked...I have 1200 watts in each veg and flower room, so my plants hit that aggressive part(or what I believe to be and that leads to my next point) but my plants really start shooting, my momm nycd did and shes 2 weeks in with buds but no crystal and smell...granted her buds just popped or became noticeable.

N O W




deflator said:


> to promote those nice flowering stresses at select times..


What are those times? See my buddy doin hydro died....so, i am on my own...i was studying his technicques and the lifecycle period...although his soil was nothing like mine, he shit... R I P

any whoo just looking for those signs so i know when to up...i know about 2 weeks into flower they start suckin hard....and end of flowering i believe? no?

I have a thread...

https://www.rollitup.org/organics/286553-my-shizzi.html

feel free to follow  It is from my first grow...which hasnt been much...shits been suckin..... to present...big improvement...

Thanks for the tips on AN ...................OH

I use hydro nutes now cause of my irrigation system....fish emulsion isnt designed for that and watering cans are a pain.....timers are a wonderful invention.


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## deflator (May 23, 2010)

Is that soil? Hydro nutes are not designed for use in soil. Soil nutes don't need to contain as much of the micros (Mg,Ca) since the soil has some already. This may not affect anything, but be aware you are giving more Mg and Ca than normal. Do you know about nutrient antagonism? http://www.totalgro.com/concepts.htm

Sorry to hear about your buddy. But you don't have to be completely on your own, a book or two is the best place to start. Mel Frank's book is where I started, it's a great read. You can get it for half price at red eye press's website for a "hurt" copy, at $10 it's a value and a half.

It's been awhile since I grew anything but auto-flowerers, and I don't like to give any kind of hard number because it's all about reading the plant, but 2 weeks into flower sounds about right. I like to hit them when the whole shoot has developed pistils...when it is getting hard to see any stem around them I mean, then again around when the first orange occurs in the pistils for a secondary burst of flowering.


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## Tw3nti3ight (May 23, 2010)

deflator said:


> Is that soil? Hydro nutes are not designed for use in soil. Soil nutes don't need to contain as much of the micros (Mg,Ca) since the soil has some already. This may not affect anything, but be aware you are giving more Mg and Ca than normal. Do you know about nutrient antagonism? http://www.totalgro.com/concepts.htm
> 
> Sorry to hear about your buddy. But you don't have to be completely on your own, a book or two is the best place to start. Mel Frank's book is where I started, it's a great read. You can get it for half price at red eye press's website for a "hurt" copy, at $10 it's a value and a half.
> 
> It's been awhile since I grew anything but auto-flowerers, and I don't like to give any kind of hard number because it's all about reading the plant, but 2 weeks into flower sounds about right. I like to hit them when the whole shoot has developed pistils...when it is getting hard to see any stem around them I mean, then again around when the first orange occurs in the pistils for a secondary burst of flowering.


Yea sux ...thank you. He was a great friend...

Great thanks for this info! Awesome!

I know I may have a lil more than normal for calcium and Magnesium but I have a whole house filtration, not softener....so my water is really low in minerals and the soil and pots I have are just the right size for my girls to veg and flower in....so they use up those trace minerals...I have bigger pots for those I know that are female that I would like to be montsers....

So my trace mineral boost actually helps, it has stopped my white leave issue, causeed by iron deficiency....

Now with those trace minerals...my plants are very dark green and lush.

Ur avatar is nice, that is what I am trying to accomplish is something like that, then I am a pig in shit! 

WHat is the deal with auto flowering plants? When do they start flowering? Never tried that route....


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## Tw3nti3ight (May 23, 2010)

I was looking at my carm flowering and one bud the leaves really lightened...iron def...but the cal mag plus has greened her back up some, iron moves slow in these plants...so the bud will recover..and yes my AB solution has N in it to keep my girls green and vegetative all the way through harvest......

now my NYCD thats been flowering for some time, the bigger fan leaves N def'd a little...still attached and alive....i dont trim fan leaves at all unless the really N def ones....they come right off...its usually the lower leaves...

now the MILF NYCD all of her vegetatively is perfect...I love this strain. Going to remother again. Can't let it go, bud is pungenty sweet with a lil spice in ur nose

I dont top my plants....stresses em...i know more colas, but if u let a plant get big enough you willl get multiple cola's naturally....My Milf is gonna have like 5,6.

Goal....ounce each one....then I will be happy.


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## mygirls (May 23, 2010)

Tw3nti3ight said:


> I was looking at my carm flowering and one bud the leaves really lightened...iron def...but the cal mag plus has greened her back up some, iron moves slow in these plants...so the bud will recover..and yes my AB solution has N in it to keep my girls green and vegetative all the way through harvest......
> 
> now my NYCD thats been flowering for some time, the bigger fan leaves N def'd a little...still attached and alive....i dont trim fan leaves at all unless the really N def ones....they come right off...its usually the lower leaves...
> 
> ...


same here.. no topi no lst just grow big pr go home...hahahaha


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## mr.smileyface (May 23, 2010)

I was going to go buy the AN big bud powder for my next show.
I currently use there 3 part. With this stuff called hydroboost. It seems to be working.
Im all out of hydroboost and want to grab something differnt. I was thinking supernatural bloombooster. My stop owner recomended it. 
The AN big bud only adds 200ppm per gal


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## Tw3nti3ight (May 24, 2010)

mr.smileyface said:


> I was going to go buy the AN big bud powder for my next show.
> I currently use there 3 part. With this stuff called hydroboost. It seems to be working.
> Im all out of hydroboost and want to grab something differnt. I was thinking supernatural bloombooster. My stop owner recomended it.
> The AN big bud only adds 200ppm per gal


Nice, thanks for the input. I may look at another booster... the powder clogs my drip heads from time to time...I use Sensi Grow and Sensi Bloom...grow has been awesome so far! I transplanted a clone on 5-1 and she's about 2.5 feet tall now...crazy!

I use 6 Tablespoons for 20 gallons of water.....havent hurt my plants yet with the powder....and I water the girls with it from a can, 1 tablespoon to 2 gallons of water....


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## pythons3 (May 24, 2010)

i know someone useing big bud liquid .. and no co2 ... working great that ive seen flowers are fat and juicy


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## mygirls (May 24, 2010)

Tw3nti3ight said:


> Nice, thanks for the input. I may look at another booster... the powder clogs my drip heads from time to time...I use Sensi Grow and Sensi Bloom...grow has been awesome so far! I transplanted a clone on 5-1 and she's about 2.5 feet tall now...crazy!
> 
> I use 6 Tablespoons for 20 gallons of water.....havent hurt my plants yet with the powder....and I water the girls with it from a can, 1 tablespoon to 2 gallons of water....


wow thats a lot cuz it 1/4 tsp per gallon..


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## deflator (May 24, 2010)

Autoflowerers are the shit, I don't keep mothers or more than one grow space and I have a perpetual grow, all without ever changing the light cycle. They flower based on their age, the one in my avatar showed preflowers at 17 days old. That picture in my avatar, a white russian a/f, was taken at 72 days from germination, right before the chop. They are cross-bred with an upland European landrace called Cannabis Runderalis which provides the autoflowering genes, but also takes a toll on the potency. Cutting out the veg cycle entirely is worth it IMO

That plant was aggressively topped early on, at 5 nodes old, following Uncle Ben's 4-cola technique and cutting at the second node. This formed 3 sets of new dominant shoots. I trained the top four to the same height and trained the bottom, smallest two up the center of this umbrella shape. The weight of the buds that developed spread the canopy open almost 6" by my estimation, letting more sunlight in an those two lower shoots to also receive sun. That plant had 6 main colas as long as my forearm and as thick around as a coke can at the middle. The secondary canopy produced just as much as the tops. IMO, canopy management is essential indoors, where you have a fixed light source. But I am limited on space.


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## smokedup12 (May 24, 2010)

Bud blood powder is the best for week 1, can see over 4x root mass in a week. (hydro). then big bud. then overdrive for last two weeks all with the three part. also some bud candy. 

Using this shit i get preflowers within a week after flipping. Get a pound every 50 days. 2x400hps, 1x200wcfl, co2


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## mygirls (May 24, 2010)

smokedup12 said:


> Bud blood powder is the best for week 1, can see over 4x root mass in a week. (hydro). then big bud. then overdrive for last two weeks all with the three part. also some bud candy.
> 
> Using this shit i get preflowers within a week after flipping. Get a pound every 50 days. 2x400hps, 1x200wcfl, co2


hes talking BIG BUD not bud blood


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## smokedup12 (May 24, 2010)

Yah i know but high recommend bud blood for week 1, then big bud


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## Uncle Ben (May 24, 2010)

deflator said:


> That plant was aggressively topped early on, at 5 nodes old, following Uncle Ben's 4-cola technique and cutting at the second node. This formed 3 sets of new dominant shoots. I trained the top four to the same height and trained the bottom, smallest two up the center of this umbrella shape. The weight of the buds that developed spread the canopy open almost 6" by my estimation, letting more sunlight in an those two lower shoots to also receive sun. That plant had 6 main colas as long as my forearm and as thick around as a coke can at the middle. The secondary canopy produced just as much as the tops. IMO, canopy management is essential indoors, where you have a fixed light source. But I am limited on space.


Need to emphasize a really good point you made about growing - canopy management. Once a grower gets the basics down, canopy management is the key to success.....doesn't matter if you're growing pot, peaches, grapes, or tomatoes. One needs to open up the canopy to light and air. What works best for you is your call.

Most know how I feel about the never ending cannabis products quackery.

UB


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## jpill (May 24, 2010)

i used advanced and i liked em,I didn't use a full AN nute regiment, But did use A&B also used Super Mother Tea Bloom.. I think i'm going to make a switch to Non cannabis specific nutrients. The cannabis specific Nutes are way over priced these days. You can just as easily find non MJ specific nutes for much cheaper that will do the same shit. Example back strap molasses which is found at stock yards & feed shops for farm animals. Price that against some of Advanced's molasses .. Exact same & Its still 1tsp per gal.


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## deflator (May 25, 2010)

Uncle Ben said:


> Most know how I feel about the never ending cannabis products quackery.
> 
> UB


I've read a lot of your posts on the internet and found them to be a beacon of truth that helped me a lot. I'm just trying to pass on the favor.


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## mtblackdog (May 25, 2010)

I use Big Bud powder starting the second week of flowering into the 4th, and then use overdrive the last two weeks before flush. Last grow I averaged 9 ounces per plant.


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## Tw3nti3ight (May 26, 2010)

mygirls said:


> wow thats a lot cuz it 1/4 tsp per gallon..


 
1.5 TBSP per 5 gallons, I have a 25 gallon reservoir.


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## Tw3nti3ight (May 26, 2010)

deflator said:


> Autoflowerers are the shit, I don't keep mothers or more than one grow space and I have a perpetual grow, all without ever changing the light cycle. They flower based on their age, the one in my avatar showed preflowers at 17 days old. That picture in my avatar, a white russian a/f, was taken at 72 days from germination, right before the chop. They are cross-bred with an upland European landrace called Cannabis Runderalis which provides the autoflowering genes, but also takes a toll on the potency. Cutting out the veg cycle entirely is worth it IMO
> 
> That plant was aggressively topped early on, at 5 nodes old, following Uncle Ben's 4-cola technique and cutting at the second node. This formed 3 sets of new dominant shoots. I trained the top four to the same height and trained the bottom, smallest two up the center of this umbrella shape. The weight of the buds that developed spread the canopy open almost 6" by my estimation, letting more sunlight in an those two lower shoots to also receive sun. That plant had 6 main colas as long as my forearm and as thick around as a coke can at the middle. The secondary canopy produced just as much as the tops. IMO, canopy management is essential indoors, where you have a fixed light source. But I am limited on space.


Fuckin cool, thanks for the info! I am having luck! just checked and 3 of the 4 random seed strain i have veggin have Calyx's and hairs! So excited for my cheese and lemon ice! I had the ph too low and was getting males!

I dont top i just let my plants veg...I have space a whole room dedicated with fixed lighting...yes plant management is essential indoors! I do stuff daily, pays off in the end!


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## Tw3nti3ight (May 26, 2010)

smokedup12 said:


> Bud blood powder is the best for week 1, can see over 4x root mass in a week. (hydro). then big bud. then overdrive for last two weeks all with the three part. also some bud candy.
> 
> Using this shit i get preflowers within a week after flipping. Get a pound every 50 days. 2x400hps, 1x200wcfl, co2


 
Nice, I am soil. My girls get hydro nutes, sensi bloom, bud candy, x factor and big bud (periodically). If i can get a lb every harvest I would be happy as hell!


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## homebrewer (May 26, 2010)

A product that I really like and could be what you're looking for is KoolBloom dry from GH. When used in the last 2-3 weeks of flower, it really makes things swell and ooze resin. Just my .02.


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## Tw3nti3ight (May 27, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> A product that I really like and could be what you're looking for is KoolBloom dry from GH. When used in the last 2-3 weeks of flower, it really makes things swell and ooze resin. Just my .02.


You like GH products? I think AN has better quality...

at least from their ph up/down perspective, AN is so much better.


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## homebrewer (May 27, 2010)

Tw3nti3ight said:


> You like GH products? I think AN has better quality...
> 
> at least from their ph up/down perspective, AN is so much better.


 It's all about your final product. Do you have a picture of yours that really showcases how good AN is?


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## Tw3nti3ight (May 28, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> It's all about your final product. Do you have a picture of yours that really showcases how good AN is?


True, point taken..


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## GreedAndVanity (May 28, 2010)

From a analytical perspective the nutrient companies are essentially selling you all the same shit.

I am currently using advanced nutrients because I found my way into a situation where the company gave me a supply of free nutrients. They work great as far as I am concerned but over all I see people working wonders with anything based off hoagland's solution.

One of the main ideas most people need to get out of their mind that they are feeding their plant with their nutrients. You are giving the plant chemical pathways to be fed. like 99% of plant mass actually comes from the CO2 the plant breathes. Proper aeration is the best way to get more.


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## Tw3nti3ight (May 28, 2010)

GreedAndVanity said:


> From a analytical perspective the nutrient companies are essentially selling you all the same shit.
> 
> I am currently using advanced nutrients because I found my way into a situation where the company gave me a supply of free nutrients. They work great as far as I am concerned but over all I see people working wonders with anything based off hoagland's solution.
> 
> One of the main ideas most people need to get out of their mind that they are feeding their plant with their nutrients. You are giving the plant chemical pathways to be fed. like 99% of plant mass actually comes from the CO2 the plant breathes. Proper aeration is the best way to get more.


I agree. I have fans 24/7 blowing and my fresh air exchange is normal. I have a co2 monitor and tank, not using tank right now...might fill it monday and set her up. But my co2 is always around 500-600ppm. If i stay in the room for 10 min it rises to 800-900. Monitor helps. Will boosting CO2 realling increase yield? Say 1500ppm.

For the record, I am sticking with Advanced Nutrients Sensi Grow and Bloom. So far my results are astounding! Veg room, my plants are exploding! absolutely amazing. Flower room my girls are budding unbeliveably! My NYCD is 5 feet by 2.5 feet and I have buds every inch or so! Crystals, resiny and starting to stink the spicy pungent smell! I will switch to Big Bud liquid possibly....still researching a booster...also taking suggestions.


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## homebrewer (May 28, 2010)

Tw3nti3ight said:


> My NYCD is 5 feet by 2.5 feet and I have buds every inch or so! Crystals, resiny and starting to stink the spicy pungent smell! I will switch to Big Bud liquid possibly....still researching a booster...also taking suggestions.


 How about a picture of those buds?


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## Tw3nti3ight (May 28, 2010)

Here is Momma NYCD.

Absolutely gorgeous!

Flowering since 5-11.


Check out https://www.rollitup.org/organics/286553-my-shizzi.html


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## Tw3nti3ight (May 30, 2010)

GreedAndVanity said:


> One of the main ideas most people need to get out of their mind that they are feeding their plant with their nutrients. You are giving the plant chemical pathways to be fed. like 99% of plant mass actually comes from the CO2 the plant breathes. Proper aeration is the best way to get more.


On that note, i opened up my air vent now since it is summer with air conditioning on temp is down dramatically. Also, my co2 in the room has jumped to 1200 and staying steady. That said, I should see an increase in size and yield...

So nice to not have to fill co2 tanks....at least for the time being....while i save for a portable air conditioner.


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## blazingtimes (Jun 3, 2010)

Love Big Bud powder....it lasts forever too. I only use a little in my grows and it really seems to boost things in the long run..............

Good to see some pics from folks - AWESOME!!!!!


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 3, 2010)

blazingtimes said:


> Love Big Bud powder....it lasts forever too. I only use a little in my grows and it really seems to boost things in the long run..............
> 
> Good to see some pics from folks - AWESOME!!!!!


 
Yea my NYCD momma is exploding! So far so good with the Big Bud powder....


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 7, 2010)

Well here is the momma NYCD, been going since 5-11, not even a month! I Big Bud her 1 time a week....she gets watered 4 times a day with sensi bloom a & b and a little cal mag plus...mainly for the iron as the bloom doesn't have any. Its a drip irrigation system.


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## thceed (Jun 8, 2010)

We switched to AN and almost doubled our yield. Reservior temp and quality (fresh) lamp bulbs make all the difference .


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## homebrewer (Jun 8, 2010)

thceed said:


> We switched to AN and almost doubled our yield. Reservior temp and quality (fresh) lamp bulbs make all the difference .


 I use GH at probably half the cost and will compete with anyone's yields, anywhere. It's not the nutes.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 8, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> I use GH at probably half the cost and will compete with anyone's yields, anywhere. It's not the nutes.


There are many more factors to get high yields...you cant say i will compete with anyone, cause it all depends...depends on how long you let your plant veg for and with what kind of light....also watering cycle, grow medium type, etc, etc....

My momma NYCD has been vegging from a clone since 2-20. She put on a foot and some inches in her transition stretch. She is as tall as me now flowering buds just keep expanding...crazy as hell.

Here are some pics with the lights on, but my camera setting is for low light to take the damn brightness out . There are 3 400 watt Super HPS Hortilux bulbs. Third pic is of the flower room and the second to last pic is of the super skunk  she is budding now. Can't wait.

SO, to my question, in your opinion HomeBrewer, what is it then?

I will add this too, momma was veggin with organic fish emulsion, then i switched to AN since I added my irrigation system. I know they make organic nutes....I have seen the sensi stuff in action and I like the results so far. Momma with organic nutes has pheno differences than my other nycd's flowering, AN makes their fan leaves huge! Organic makes them more textured and smaller. At least thats what I am seeing... Last pic is of the leaves, to compare. Left in my hand is momma, right is a clone of her, the clone has fatter leaves accentuating her Indica Afghani trait, momma is thinner and thinner at the base of the individual fan leave too. Mexican Sativa trait???


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## homebrewer (Jun 8, 2010)

Tw3nti3ight said:


> There are many more factors to get high yields...you cant say i will compete with anyone, cause it all depends...depends on how long you let your plant veg for and with what kind of light....also watering cycle, grow medium type, etc, etc....
> 
> Here are some pics with the lights on, but my camera setting is for low light to take the damn brightness out . There are 3 400 watt Super HPS Hortilux bulbs. Third pic is of the flower room and the second to last pic is of the super skunk  she is budding now. Can't wait.


You are correct, there are _many_ factors and an experienced grower will do well with any reputable brand of nutes. In regards to a long veg period, that really doesn't make a difference indoors and can hurt you actually. If you normally veg 6 plants for a month but decide to veg them for 4 months instead (flowering with a 400), you're not going to get much more than 1 gram per watt per 2 month period with either veg period. The longer veg period is actually less efficient as far as total yields given time. 



> SO, to my question, in your opinion HomeBrewer, what is it then?


I think I missed your question.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 8, 2010)

I would have to disagree, With momma vegging and getting as big as she has, she is producing a shitload more than the smaller NYCD that is almost ready. Size matters, depending on the strain you can get multiple colas just from size alone, I have that with my momma. Topping is not needed, only stesses the plant.....


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## homebrewer (Jun 8, 2010)

Tw3nti3ight said:


> I would have to disagree, With momma vegging and getting as big as she has, she is producing a shitload more than the smaller NYCD that is almost ready. Size matters, depending on the strain you can get multiple colas just from size alone, I have that with my momma. Topping is not needed, only stesses the plant.....


 I think we're getting off the topic. I only responded to the guy above because he claimed to double his yield by changing nutes. 

But in regards to your large plant, if you had 3 large plants or 6 of them or 20 under a 400hps, you're still only going to yield about 1 gram per watt. In that respect, size doesn't matter. But again, that's not why I commented.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 8, 2010)

at 400 grams X 3 = 1200grams. Thats cool with me, I am not complaining 

I grow for personal use, medicinal, recreation and spiritual. So I am not concerned with quantity, more quality, as I am with most things in life.

That said I understand your point.

This grow going on will harvest within weeks of eachother, I am going to stick with the Big Bud for now, as it hasnt hurt my plants yet.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 8, 2010)

So, on that note since we have conversation going on, what types of plants do you recommend and why? I am a connoisseur, collector if you will.


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## homebrewer (Jun 8, 2010)

Tw3nti3ight said:


> So, on that note since we have conversation going on, what types of plants do you recommend and why? I am a connoisseur, collector if you will.


 I'm a fan of the sativa dominant strains. I like the low paranoia, energetic, heady effect personally and one of the best that i've ever had is Soma's Amnesia Haze. I also find that sativa dominant strains make music sound better and one of my personal faves at the moment is pictured below. She'll veg to about 18 inches and flower for 11 weeks. She's a heavy yielder and 3.5 ounces per plant x 6 plants under a 600hps is easily attainable. She'll get your adrenaline pumping while inducing mild-to-medium strength euphoria. Her tricome production seems to be on the low side but she seems as strong as anything else with twice the ice, not sure why that is.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 8, 2010)

WOW! Absolutely gorgeous! love the color! How is the taste? Nice job! Hydro yes?

I too love sativa dominant myself, music is awesome on it, love the clubs on it.

Right now, I am a kid in the candy store, so I am trying different strains till I find the "golden" one. Soma send discreetly to the US?

This is my NYCD that is about a week away from 70 days, she is just ripening now and building on the buds....crystals are damn near 100 percent cloudy...I took a branch off today and letting it dry.


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## homebrewer (Jun 8, 2010)

Tw3nti3ight said:


> WOW! Absolutely gorgeous! love the color! How is the taste? Nice job! Hydro yes?
> 
> I too love sativa dominant myself, music is awesome on it, love the clubs on it.
> 
> ...


 When it comes to taste, my palate is more tuned towards beer, lol. The taste is earthy and slightly spicy and she was grown in the dirt. She tends to be a little more frosty in hydro though. Your NYCD looks good! When do you harvest? I like near 100% cloudy personally. I see a lot of people waiting for amber, blah, blah, blah. I'm not a fan of amber.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 9, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> When it comes to taste, my palate is more tuned towards beer, lol. The taste is earthy and slightly spicy and she was grown in the dirt. She tends to be a little more frosty in hydro though. Your NYCD looks good! When do you harvest? I like near 100% cloudy personally. I see a lot of people waiting for amber, blah, blah, blah. I'm not a fan of amber.


Beer lol...I am not a drinker anymore...like thc way more, but I throw back some beers here and there. Thanks on the NYCD, yea she is smelling nice, doused her with Bud Candy today...place I bought seeds from says 70 days, so next monday, I am smokin regs with seeds right now and she is very ambery... I heard amber gears more towards body buzz...but the regs hit me in the head...so dunno...

I am buying next round for sure Super Silver Haze females (http://www.amsterdammarijuanaseeds.com/product_info.php?id=49b7d6e50116e6fdcfb8897d81a1dbc0&currency=49&product_id=61) and Light of Jah females


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 10, 2010)

Homebrewer, your pic looks hella different than the one on soma's site, much better to me. Says 12-13 weeks, you go 11, why cut it short?


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## homebrewer (Jun 10, 2010)

Tw3nti3ight said:


> Homebrewer, your pic looks hella different than the one on soma's site, much better to me. Says 12-13 weeks, you go 11, why cut it short?


 Sorry for the confusion. The pic above is a local strain which reminds me most of Soma's stuff that I loved so much over in Amsterdam.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 10, 2010)

Gotcha, that local strain is very nice! Good job.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 10, 2010)

Well I Big Bud'd the super skunk, carmelicious and momma nycd, all took nicely, no shock, superskunk just started to form small buds, i can see very faint sparkles for the start of crystals.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 13, 2010)

Looky looky i got hooky!

Oooey Gooey, crystally as hell! Momma is unbelievable!

Well, I can tell you this....I have been doing this for a year now....and since AN, I haven't had results like this...irrigation with ph water only and water can nute a few times a week doesnt cut it...these plants are almost human and consume crazy amounts of everything.

AN has not let me down yet. without them, i grew some bud, no crystals or stink...small buds look premature....didnt get me high, burned some too with nutes...thats human error...but these hydro nutes dripped in soil irrigation are giving me unbelieveable results...that pic is a small side branch , just a taste of this MOTHER FUCKER!


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 13, 2010)

Your telling me plants this size (veg room) will yield more than this size (flower room)??? I strongly disagree, indoor has no bearing on it.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 13, 2010)

My super skunk, she is now as tall as momma nycd, over 5 feet and 2.5 feet at least, wide in the middle. Since 5-31, she put on a foot and a half.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 14, 2010)

Here is the NYCD that was almost done, now harvested on day 70. With soil I am not going to stop nutes and irrigation....lost some of its stink to me...I am not hydro and outdoor you wouldn't flush a plant in the ground....


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 16, 2010)

Momma NYCD since 5-11, she is absolutely SICK! Stinky, sticky crystally.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 16, 2010)

Thread went quiet.....I will stop updating.


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## treeburner (Jun 17, 2010)

That sucks...just when the thread was getting good....LOL

Good luck man!


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 17, 2010)

I can keep updating, not a problem, glad there is life out there .


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## jmslee123 (Jun 18, 2010)

I use large outbreak in my two plants.One began to have burning leaves and the other is very good! With the same dose, the same amount of everything.So I pulled the patient a few days ago, and now the situation has stabilized. Stay with the same amount for each and it is wonderful!


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## churchhaze (Jun 19, 2010)

Go on google and search for monopotassium phosphate and you'll all realize what fools you've been.

I'm totally serious when I say this: just go buy lab grade chemicals if you're gonna go hydro. From the NPK rating you're giving for Big Bud, its clearly just KH2PO4 + KOH (potassium hydroxide, or pH up).

I have made the switch recently and nutrients extremely cheap now. I will never buy diluted crap again or this name brand shit, even if it is in powdered form.

Just make your own mix. Honestly, its so much cheaper to just buy the chemicals and a scale.

Koolbloom? big bud? When you're getting to the point of buying name brand "forumulas" that only have one chemical in them, you've gotta start thinking... Why not just buy THAT chemical? It couldn't be that hard to make a mix of one chemical.


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## homebrewer (Jun 19, 2010)

churchhaze said:


> Go on google and search for monopotassium phosphate and you'll all realize what fools you've been.
> 
> I'm totally serious when I say this: just go buy lab grade chemicals if you're gonna go hydro. From the NPK rating you're giving for Big Bud, its clearly just KH2PO4 + KOH (potassium hydroxide, or pH up).
> 
> ...


 Please post a picture of your product, I'd be interested in how it turns out. 

Another thing is that nutes are not expensive, relative to what you're producing. If $70 of GH nutes per flower period (which is exactly what the expert line costs at their recommend doses) produces 1 lb of product, that not even a drop in the bucket.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 20, 2010)

churchhaze said:


> Go on google and search for monopotassium phosphate and you'll all realize what fools you've been.
> 
> I'm totally serious when I say this: just go buy lab grade chemicals if you're gonna go hydro. From the NPK rating you're giving for Big Bud, its clearly just KH2PO4 + KOH (potassium hydroxide, or pH up).
> 
> ...



You may be absolutely right, but I will pay the extra money, its not a big deal to me, what is is finished product. So, I will pay the extra and let their PHD chemists who constantly test this shit on MJ do all the dirty work for me. And all I will do is go in my drawer and get a measuring cup.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 20, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> Please post a picture of your product, I'd be interested in how it turns out.


Here is momma NYCD, I had to tie her legs up, she's fat sticky crystally and heavy!


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 20, 2010)

Also, Big Bud has a ton of amino acids and shit, i suppose i should run to GNC too huh?

I see better results with AN so far with plant growth overall. My plants get to a point in veg and then its explode. 1 month month and a half and I have a big enough plant to flip 12 12. 2.5, 3 feet tall.


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## bigtony916 (Jun 20, 2010)

that some outstanding plants


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 20, 2010)

bigtony916 said:


> that some outstanding plants


 Thanks! Appreciate it.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 20, 2010)

I dont trim fan leaves or top, no need to, nature doesnt do that. All those leaves are solar panels...they only help.....I have 6 colas on momma NYCD. Just veg'd her out.

This plant (MJ) is process that takes time. patience is key. I admit I am eager too.


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## churchhaze (Jun 20, 2010)

I'm not sure if links are allowed, but I searched KH2PO4 in google shopping and found this for 6.99USD for a 500g bag 99% (the rest is likely hydrates).

http://shops.godaddy.com/Kai-Chem/Potassium-Phosphate-KH2PO4-99-pure-500g-Bag/

Its actually more concentrated than the powder from GH and AN or they wouldn't make a profit.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 20, 2010)

churchhaze said:


> I'm not sure if links are allowed, but I searched KH2PO4 in google shopping and found this for 6.99USD for a 500g bag 99% (the rest is likely hydrates).
> 
> http://shops.godaddy.com/Kai-Chem/Potassium-Phosphate-KH2PO4-99-pure-500g-Bag/
> 
> Its actually more concentrated than the powder from GH and AN or they wouldn't make a profit.


Again, there are other ingredients as well in Big Bud.


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## homebrewer (Jun 20, 2010)

churchhaze said:


> I'm not sure if links are allowed, but I searched KH2PO4 in google shopping and found this for 6.99USD for a 500g bag 99% (the rest is likely hydrates).
> 
> http://shops.godaddy.com/Kai-Chem/Potassium-Phosphate-KH2PO4-99-pure-500g-Bag/
> 
> Its actually more concentrated than the powder from GH and AN or they wouldn't make a profit.


 ...and lets see YOUR product with your homemade nutes.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 21, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> ...and lets see YOUR product with your homemade nutes.


Yea Churchhaze, I wanna see your finished product, because so far I am killing it and its going to be hard to beat.


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## mmd604 (Jun 21, 2010)

Tw3nti3ight said:


> Also, AN is Canadian based, where they can test and develop nutes specifically for MJ


Actually AN is tested and develop in bulgeria and produced in canada and fan leafs are not solar panels they transpire water and cause humidity problems which leads to mold. If your on the AN train they will actually tell you to remove fan leafs which is the proper way. Voodoo juice and tarantula are the only advanced products i use.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 21, 2010)

mmd604 said:


> Actually AN is tested and develop in bulgeria and produced in canada and fan leafs are not solar panels they transpire water and cause humidity problems which leads to mold. If your on the AN train they will actually tell you to remove fan leafs which is the proper way. Voodoo juice and tarantula are the only advanced products i use.


You are so wrong, fan leaves are solar panels, they are green and contain chlorophyll. Without them your plants won't do shit.....nature doesnt remove them, therefore I won't.


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## homebrewer (Jun 21, 2010)

mmd604 said:


> Actually AN is tested and develop in bulgeria and produced in canada and fan leafs are not solar panels they transpire water and cause humidity problems which leads to mold. If your on the AN train they will actually tell you to remove fan leafs which is the proper way. Voodoo juice and tarantula are the only advanced products i use.


 Please quit posting until you've read a book on growing. Spreading bad info not only makes you look like an idiot, but some newb might actually take your advice and end up like mygirls; a 60 year old who probably still sticks nails through the stalks of his plants.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 21, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> Please quit posting until you've read a book on growing. Spreading bad info not only makes you look like an idiot, but some newb might actually take your advice and end up like mygirls; a 60 year old who probably still sticks nails through the stalks of his plants.


Thanks Homebrewer, I can't stand people who have no idea about plant biology.


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## ENGLAND123 (Jun 21, 2010)

i use AN bud candy, big bud, bud blood, iguana juice - ive never ever had results like i get with AN - trust me they are the way forward


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## mmd604 (Jun 21, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> Please quit posting until you've read a book on growing. Spreading bad info not only makes you look like an idiot, but some newb might actually take your advice and end up like mygirls; a 60 year old who probably still sticks nails through the stalks of his plants.


urbangrower.com episode 35 pruning. I dont have to read books im doing fine. my yeild increases when i remove fan leaves plain and simple I just dont touch the tops


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## homebrewer (Jun 21, 2010)

mmd604 said:


> urbangrower.com episode 35 pruning. I dont have to read books im doing fine. my yeild increases when i remove fan leaves plain and simple I just dont touch the tops


Anyone who owns a Jorge Cervantes book knows ripping off leaves is not good. Here is another source saying the same thing from the Mandala Seeds site:

&#8226; *Should I remove fan leaves to let light pass to the lower shoots?*
The fan leaves of cannabis plants function as an important energy storehouse. They are necessary for the absorption of light to manufacture sugars which feed the plant and make it grow. Vital nutrients such as nitrogen and phosphorus are also stored in the fan leaves and used as required. Removing healthy fan leaves therefore disrupts and cuts off these potential growth factors. It also affects the side shoot at that internode which usually grows less after that. 
Mandala plants develop particularly large fan leaves. This is due to their exceptional hybrid vigour and other outstanding genetic traits. The large leaves assist in the rapid and healthy growth of our strains and do not inhibit or obstruct bud development. All our strains typically develop chunky and heavy bud sites from the bottom to the top despite shade from the fan leaves.


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## mmd604 (Jun 22, 2010)

So do you just read books or do you actually grow yourself. jorge cervantes is not a god and is not 100% right on every thing he preaches little man


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## homebrewer (Jun 22, 2010)

mmd604 said:


> So do you just read books or do you actually grow yourself. jorge cervantes is not a god and is not 100% right on every thing he preaches little man


 That's my point, it's not just Jorge. You're certainly welcome to grow however YOU'D like but when you make statements like this one:

_...and fan leafs are not solar panels they transpire water and cause humidity problems which leads to mold.

_...it just shows that you have a lot to learn.It's such an ignorant statement that flies in the face of Basic Growing 101.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 22, 2010)

He may get more growth, in the root area, as they will search out the nutrients he loses from cutting fan leaves....therefore the plant may grow more to produce more fan leaves...

either way he is ignorant, thinking fan leaves cause mold....


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## mygirls (Jun 22, 2010)

i don't thin cuz they cause mold i thin cuz it makes the bud fat.
[video=youtube;LgvoW5TIO58]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LgvoW5TIO58[/video]

and here she is at harvest time...
am i ignorant


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## mmd604 (Jun 22, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> That's my point, it's not just Jorge. You're certainly welcome to grow however YOU'D like but when you make statements like this one:
> 
> _...and fan leafs are not solar panels they transpire water and cause humidity problems which leads to mold.
> 
> _...it just shows that you have a lot to learn.It's such an ignorant statement that flies in the face of Basic Growing 101.



Thats a 2 way street i wont preach mine if you do preach you garbage. I have been doing this for about 10 years sucessfully. Maybe you guys should actually grow something instead of sitting behind your computer acting like u now what your talking about,because you read a couple of books. One more I would just like everyody to now eugene yardonov is a bulgerian knight all of advanced reseach is done in bulgeria dont believe the hype .


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## mygirls (Jun 22, 2010)

mmd604 said:


> Thats a 2 way street i wont preach mine if you do preach you garbage. I have been doing this for about 10 years sucessfully. Maybe you guys should actually grow something instead of sitting behind your computer acting like now what your talking about. because you read a couple of books


books are just the basic to get started.. there is plenty of room for tweeking and peeking the potintal growth and yields out of them... you only get that info from other growers that show and tell....


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## mmd604 (Jun 22, 2010)

mygirls said:


> you only get that info from other growers that show and tell....


 Yes i was taught hands on by someone who been growing for 30+ years. There are some good books out there just dont take everything as fact


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## homebrewer (Jun 22, 2010)

mmd604 said:


> Yes i was taught hands on by someone who been growing for 30+ years. There are some good books out there just dont take everything as fact


 Post some pictures of your product. Lets see some on the plant AND dried. We can compare  I've asked mygirls too but he differs people to search through his 9000+ posts.


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## mygirls (Jun 22, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> Post some pictures of your product. Lets see some on the plant AND dried. We can compare  I've asked mygirls too but he differs people to search through his 9000+ posts.


and your not very smart go to my profile go to threads started by mygirls and look find the thread i started obout what ever your looking to compare... i don't have 9000 threads just post.. big diffrence.

 Find all started threads


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## homebrewer (Jun 22, 2010)

mygirls said:


> and your not very smart go to my profile go to threads started by mygirls and look find the thread i started obout what ever your looking to compare... i don't have 9000 threads just post.. big diffrence.
> 
> Find all started threads


Maybe you should have titled it: ~~mygirls~~ growing with spider mites? 

https://www.rollitup.org/attachments/grow-journals/946483d1274368632-mygirls-indoor-grow-sany1358.jpg

https://www.rollitup.org/attachments/grow-journals/946478d1274368619-mygirls-indoor-grow-sany1359.jpg


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## mygirls (Jun 22, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> Maybe you should have titled it: ~~mygirls~~ growing with spider mites?
> 
> https://www.rollitup.org/attachments/grow-journals/946483d1274368632-mygirls-indoor-grow-sany1358.jpg
> 
> https://www.rollitup.org/attachments/grow-journals/946478d1274368619-mygirls-indoor-grow-sany1359.jpg


ya i know i do get them really bad during hunting season or scouting time and its that time as to im not here that much... i check in on my plants every 10 days or so during that time..


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## mygirls (Jun 22, 2010)

you had to pic a pic to bash i see. to bad.. why not pick a pic and talk nice.


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## homebrewer (Jun 22, 2010)

mygirls said:


> you had to pic a pic to bash i see. to bad.. why not pick a pic and talk nice.


 Check out Azamax from GH. I've been experimenting with it and it seems to be working really well. It's a systemic killer basically making your plants toxic to mites (if I understand correctly). From their site:

_AzaMax is an antifeedant and insect growth regulator and controls pests through starvation and growth disruption. _

When used in combination with DocktorDoom foggers, that's a really nice combo to beat mites. That and staying ahead of them by recognizing their damage. The only time I rip off leaves is if I see damage from mites . At that point, I know it's time to bomb.

But without getting side-tracked from the topic of this thread which is bloom boosters, here is KoolBloom dry results:







...and dry:





mmd604 - I'm still waiting on your pictures.


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## mmd604 (Jun 22, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> Check out Azamax from GH. I've been experimenting with it and it seems to be working really well. It's a systemic killer basically making your plants toxic to mites (if I understand correctly). From their site:
> 
> _AzaMax is an antifeedant and insect growth regulator and controls pests through starvation and growth disruption. _
> 
> ...


Im starting a grow journal with roto gro i purchased. My clones have just been cut and will be ready in 10 days you wil have to wait.


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## homebrewer (Jun 22, 2010)

mmd604 said:


> Im starting a grow journal with roto gro i purchased. My clones have just been cut and will be ready in 10 days you wil have to wait.


 Sweet. Let me know when it's up and I'll sub.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 23, 2010)

mmd604 said:


> Im starting a grow journal with roto gro i purchased. My clones have just been cut and will be ready in 10 days you wil have to wait.


I am excited to see as well.


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## deflator (Jun 24, 2010)

mmd604 said:


> Actually AN is tested and develop in bulgeria and produced in canada and fan leafs are not solar panels they transpire water and cause humidity problems which leads to mold. If your on the AN train they will actually tell you to remove fan leafs which is the proper way. Voodoo juice and tarantula are the only advanced products i use.


LMFAO ! This is truly sophmoric. So they tell you to gimp your plants and you still buy their products? LOL! Don't you think plants might NEED to transpire that water?? Jesus


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 24, 2010)

I know, fan leaves are essential.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 24, 2010)

MOmma NYCD since 5-31.


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## Mr.GreenJeans (Jun 25, 2010)

Sweet!! That NYCD is looking really nice!!!! It took a bit, but I actually just read this entire thread (and it only took 1 bowl!!). Some interesting concepts (or misconcepts, if you will) here. Actually, one of the more interesting threads I've run into lately!

I will ocassionally use some liquid BigBud, but otherwise I'm strictly a FF guy at the moment. But I might give the AN line up a try in an upcoming grow. I just hate to fuck with a system that is already working so well for me. But if AN shows a significant improvement in yield/taste/smell/etc, then I'll pretty much HAVE to switch over.

And no, I'm not interested in making my own nutes. I have too much to do already.

....And leave those freakin' fan leaves alone!!!! They are there for a reason, ya know? Healthy foliage = healthy buds!!!!


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## hugetom80s (Jun 25, 2010)

churchhaze said:


> Go on google and search for monopotassium phosphate and you'll all realize what fools you've been.
> 
> I'm totally serious when I say this: just go buy lab grade chemicals if you're gonna go hydro. From the NPK rating you're giving for Big Bud, its clearly just KH2PO4 + KOH (potassium hydroxide, or pH up).
> 
> ...


Wow, that's a load of BS.

Think about it... you're claiming that Big Bud is the same thing as pH up. But if you actually look at Big Bud and compare it to pH up, they don't look, smell or act alike.

pH up is a strong alkaline. Big Bud isn't.


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## mmd604 (Jun 25, 2010)

MOmma NYCD since 5-31.
Let me ask are you growin mainly sativa dominant strains ???


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 26, 2010)

Mr.GreenJeans said:


> Sweet!! That NYCD is looking really nice!!!! It took a bit, but I actually just read this entire thread (and it only took 1 bowl!!). Some interesting concepts (or misconcepts, if you will) here. Actually, one of the more interesting threads I've run into lately!
> 
> I will ocassionally use some liquid BigBud, but otherwise I'm strictly a FF guy at the moment. But I might give the AN line up a try in an upcoming grow. I just hate to fuck with a system that is already working so well for me. But if AN shows a significant improvement in yield/taste/smell/etc, then I'll pretty much HAVE to switch over.
> 
> ...



Great Thanks for the input that is one of her side colas, I will snap pics and update after I go through my threads. I will try and show you all of her, she is sexy, crystally, smells so exotic. sticky icky too.

I go with AN cause I have seen their results in hydro and I was impressed. Granted my drip irrigation is different than dro, but its so easy to deliver nutes that way....So far no complaints on the big bud, I really think strain has a lot to do with bud size too. Cause my super skunk is smaller more prevalent buds, NYCD is just think nugs and colas.

Thats what I say, use what works, I have a system that is working and I am tweaking....


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 26, 2010)

hugetom80s said:


> Wow, that's a load of BS.
> 
> Think about it... you're claiming that Big Bud is the same thing as pH up. But if you actually look at Big Bud and compare it to pH up, they don't look, smell or act alike.
> 
> pH up is a strong alkaline. Big Bud isn't.


Yes I agree.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 26, 2010)

mmd604 said:


> MOmma NYCD since 5-31.
> Let me ask are you growin mainly sativa dominant strains ???



I am a kid in a candy store right now, trying different strains out. yes I do like Sativa dominant for the head buzz that goes with my dance music, but I also like body buzzes too, change it up.


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## mmd604 (Jun 26, 2010)

Interesting hmm i have a theory this is gonna piss people off but whatever here we go. Sativa dominant strains dont like to have there fan leaves removed and indicas do. That is my theory


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 26, 2010)

This is Momma NYCD, shots of her main and side colas.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 26, 2010)

SuperSkunk


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## mmd604 (Jun 27, 2010)

Tw3nti3ight said:


> SuperSkunk


 your solar panel theory if i did that with the kush that im grow i would lose on my yeild


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 27, 2010)

mmd604 said:


> your solar panel theory if i did that with the kush that im grow i would lose on my yeild



I dont cut fan leaves off, havent touched the Super Skunk, its just the way she is.


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## mindphuk (Jun 27, 2010)

mmd604 said:


> your solar panel theory if i did that with the kush that im grow i would lose on my yeild


Question, do you think the buds themselves require strong light? What part of the plant is creating carbohydrates from the carbon derived from co2? 

Maybe you better watch urbangrower.com episode 35 again when he talks about lollipoping and removing the lower 'sucker' branches that _aren't receiving a lot of light_ and blocking air flow. Vastly different than merely removing fan leaves to increase yield.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 27, 2010)

mindphuk said:


> Question, do you think the buds themselves require strong light? What part of the plant is creating carbohydrates from the carbon derived from co2?
> 
> Maybe you better watch urbangrower.com episode 35 again when he talks about lollipoping and removing the lower 'sucker' branches that _aren't receiving a lot of light_ and blocking air flow. Vastly different than merely removing fan leaves to increase yield.


Yes I do remove sucker leaves and branches that wont produce much, that increases top yield as she then focuses on that area. I don't interfere with nature on top.


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## mindphuk (Jun 27, 2010)

Tw3nti3ight said:


> Yes I do remove sucker leaves and branches that wont produce much, that increases top yield as she then focuses on that area. I don't interfere with nature on top.


 thanks but my question was specifically for mmd604, you know the one that doesn't think a fan leaf is important during flowering.


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## mmd604 (Jun 27, 2010)

mindphuk said:


> Question, do you think the buds themselves require strong light? What part of the plant is creating carbohydrates from the carbon derived from co2?
> 
> Maybe you better watch urbangrower.com episode 35 again when he talks about lollipoping and removing the lower 'sucker' branches that _aren't receiving a lot of light_ and blocking air flow. Vastly different than merely removing fan leaves to increase yield.


No the buds do not require strong light. This has turned into quiet this pissing contest. All tho i probably started it which i apologizes for lol. Im done arguing if you read early in the post i stated remove all fan leafs but leave the tops. I do what works for me. Looks like i gotta start a grow journal here to prove my worth. Be patient a big weekend coming up i have to move and set up my new project . Its gonna be sweet i u will see i spared no expense


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 27, 2010)

But I look at your posts and join date and then look at who replies and compare....your a noob.


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## mindphuk (Jun 27, 2010)

mmd604 said:


> Im done arguing if you read early in the post i stated remove all fan leafs but leave the tops.


That to me sounds like you still take fan leaves near the top just leave alone the smaller bud leaves. But either way, why remove any fan leaves unless you need air circulation? It does no good and might do harm. If you really think you get a bigger yield, explain what mechanism you think the plant uses? Any rationale should be able to be backed up by known botanical facts. Not just because you started trying it and noticed a bigger yield because unless you have very good logs, you probably didn't take in all of the possible variables. The facts are that leaves are a storage of energy and carbohydrate building blocks. Removing them takes away the energy the plant can tap into during its last days of living and can use that energy more efficiently than the anything gained at the root. 

I'm not in here to continue this argument with you either, so sorry for bringing it up. But this forum is to help people and make sure others reading these disagreements have enough information to research things and make their own, hopefully correct decision. I don't think anyone should take anyone's word here, no matter what their post count or claim how long they have been growing. It does tend to shake out the ones that consistently right will rise to the top. 

I am merely curious what you think is happening inside the plant to increase your yield when you remove them.


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## mmd604 (Jun 28, 2010)

mindphuk said:


> I'm not in here to continue this argument with you either, so sorry for bringing it up. But this forum is to help people and make sure others reading these disagreements have enough information to research things and make their own, hopefully correct decision. I don't think anyone should take anyone's word here, no matter what their post count or claim how long they have been growing.


Once more i am done i will put money where my mouth is you will see i am not a noob like homebrewer seems to claim. p.s i have not seen a post count that high since overgrow !!! LOL jut kidding


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## homebrewer (Jun 28, 2010)

mmd604 said:


> Once more i am done i will put money where my mouth is you will see i am not a noob like homebrewer seems to claim. p.s i have not seen a post count that high since overgrow !!! LOL jut kidding


 For the record, I never called you a noob. I actually hate that word. Cheers to Overgrow though, now THAT was a site. Remember the shiz BOG was producing??? Organic soil blends, earth juice and botanicare products. He was the perfect example of how experience is above all others. Good God could that guy grow.


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## mmd604 (Jun 28, 2010)

No i dont remember bog. but yeah that probably was the best site in the history of cannabis forums.


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## homebrewer (Jun 28, 2010)

mmd604 said:


> No i dont remember bog. but yeah that probably was the best site in the history of cannabis forums.


 BushyOlderGrower? Really? Doesn't ring a bell?


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## Cali chronic (Jun 28, 2010)

I use Big Bud and Bloom 10 bucks for a pound and a half I get it at Armstrong Nurse (by GH...I think) works great! Check it out. I also give a tbs or two in week 6&7 of Mono potassium silica sulfate=mpss That is 0 N and like a 55 P and 25 K I get my N this late from the Molasses I use at the end this allows her too clear the existing N in the leaves and plant while giving her a sweet carb boost for flavor and production. 
I stop feeding @ 15 days before harvest and do the first 5 days of just H20 and Molasses along with a little like a 0 0 2 in the H20 I water heavey too like 10 gal the first water and then at least 5 gallons the next and on the final week just Flush product I get from SOWCAL nice stuff (vanilla) and R.O H20 and my stuff burns even stays lit and does not pop and in the vaporizer it is sweet and fresh like R.O H20 is compared to tap. I get about 4 zips a plant outta of a 5 gal bucket dried and cured BTW.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 28, 2010)

Cali chronic said:


> I use Big Bud and Bloom 10 bucks for a pound and a half I get it at Armstrong Nurse (by GH...I think) works great! Check it out. I also give a tbs or two in week 6&7 of Mono potassium silica sulfate=mpss That is 0 N and like a 55 P and 25 K I get my N this late from the Molasses I use at the end this allows her too clear the existing N in the leaves and plant while giving her a sweet carb boost for flavor and production.
> I stop feeding @ 15 days before harvest and do the first 5 days of just H20 and Molasses along with a little like a 0 0 2 in the H20 I water heavey too like 10 gal the first water and then at least 5 gallons the next and on the final week just Flush product I get from SOWCAL nice stuff (vanilla) and R.O H20 and my stuff burns even stays lit and does not pop and in the vaporizer it is sweet and fresh like R.O H20 is compared to tap. I get about 4 zips a plant outta of a 5 gal bucket dried and cured BTW.


I am in soil as well, my last nycd, I stopped nutting 2 weeks before harvest and she totally lost her diesely smell, while trimming it was just a cut vegetation smell.....now momma is staying stinky and putting on size. Was looking at her center cola, very nice. I am going to keep her irrigated the whole way till harvest. Irrigated with nute soup.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 28, 2010)

mmd604 said:


> Once more i am done i will put money where my mouth is you will see i am not a noob like homebrewer seems to claim. p.s i have not seen a post count that high since overgrow !!! LOL jut kidding


It is I who called you a noob, made assumption because you have no plant biology 101knowledge.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 28, 2010)

Let me realign this thread. I am not here to create enemies. I am merely trying to tweak my yield. I appreciate everyones input thus far. Please keep it coming. Mmd I apologize if I offended you.

I will keep posting pics of updates.


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## mmd604 (Jun 28, 2010)

homebrewer said:


> BushyOlderGrower? Really? Doesn't ring a bell?



funny that does kinda rings a bell but its been a like 5 years. Tw3nti3ight that would have fit in one post stop trying to up your post count!!! LOL just playing. I was gonna take horticulture in college but decided to become electrician.


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## Cali chronic (Jun 28, 2010)

Nute Soup yeah I gotta try that one of these days all the way till the end and then quick flush and done...The Smell goes from Fruit prior to harvest like a bucket of ripe Nectarines to Hops for Beer to Good Kush when done But needs to cure at least two weeks. I wonder if Nute to the end has an effect on curing?


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 28, 2010)

mmd604 said:


> funny that does kinda rings a bell but its been a like 5 years. Tw3nti3ight that would have fit in one post stop trying to up your post count!!! LOL just playing. I was gonna take horticulture in college but decided to become electrician.


 all good no worries. I just remember my biology days.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 28, 2010)

Cali chronic said:


> Nute Soup yeah I gotta try that one of these days all the way till the end and then quick flush and done...The Smell goes from Fruit prior to harvest like a bucket of ripe Nectarines to Hops for Beer to Good Kush when done But needs to cure at least two weeks. I wonder if Nute to the end has an effect on curing?


Well what about outdoor Cali grown? Do they flush a plant in the ground?.....hydro is different although I am not experienced in that department....

Yes her aroma is changing from fruity to more earthy.....but her smoke is too smooth, not hitter quality, hit it then quit it is what I want. You know there is thc in it. It has weight. The dank I smoke now is so fluffy and the smoke is so, u know you have some good weed. It has a distinct flavor type.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 28, 2010)

My momma has some nute burn spots small that pepper the fan leaves any idea?


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## mmd604 (Jun 29, 2010)

hmm maybe heat stress. I always looked to the tips for nute burn but if there pepper the fans leaves ???. What about mites it is mite season.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jun 30, 2010)

Not heat stress, room is cool as hell have it vented with my central air, summer it runs daily and keeps it cool....mites....i am indoor...i see little gnats every now and then, but not tons. All other plants are fine but her, it is nutes, i am thinking potassium, since my water is brined with potassium chloride, plus the nute boost being a 40 on the K.....


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jul 2, 2010)

Here is super skunk, she is crystally, sticky and no real smell, weird....maybe as she matures???


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jul 2, 2010)

Momma NYCD she is thick and heavy as hell, each side branch needed to be tied up.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jul 8, 2010)

Momma NYCD Few weeks left....


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jul 8, 2010)

Superskunk


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## Rydub (Jul 8, 2010)

Ive used the big bud powder for 3 grows, doent matter what anyone says it works very well!!! just went to the big bud liquid(ph perfect stuff) gonna give it a try. Very nice looking buds by the way. The bud ignitor works very well also.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jul 9, 2010)

Thank you. Yes I am very pleased with Big Bud powder. Was thinking of adding GH KoolBloom as well.

I am smoking my first NYCD grow and its good as hell, average keef when grinding up.

Yes I have used Bud Ignitor, I was happy with the results.


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## blazingtimes (Jul 9, 2010)

Tw3nti3ight said:


> Thank you. Yes I am very pleased with Big Bud powder. Was thinking of adding GH KoolBloom as well.
> 
> I am smoking my first NYCD grow and its good as hell, average keef when grinding up.
> 
> Yes I have used Bud Ignitor, I was happy with the results.


Huh, I really like Big Bud as well. Making me hungry to grow more........

Cool to learn about the Bud Ignitor. Haven't tried that one yet. I've only heard it's good. Huh, another nute to add. *rubbing hands together*

TGIF


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jul 16, 2010)

My NYCD has a few days left, she is so pretty, I'll snap pics before I harvest. The Superskunk is ripening nicely...she has a few weeks left...


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## dlively11 (Jul 16, 2010)

mindphuk said:


> That to me sounds like you still take fan leaves near the top just leave alone the smaller bud leaves. But either way, why remove any fan leaves unless you need air circulation? It does no good and might do harm. If you really think you get a bigger yield, explain what mechanism you think the plant uses? Any rationale should be able to be backed up by known botanical facts. Not just because you started trying it and noticed a bigger yield because unless you have very good logs, you probably didn't take in all of the possible variables. The facts are that leaves are a storage of energy and carbohydrate building blocks. Removing them takes away the energy the plant can tap into during its last days of living and can use that energy more efficiently than the anything gained at the root.
> 
> I'm not in here to continue this argument with you either, so sorry for bringing it up. But this forum is to help people and make sure others reading these disagreements have enough information to research things and make their own, hopefully correct decision. I don't think anyone should take anyone's word here, no matter what their post count or claim how long they have been growing. It does tend to shake out the ones that consistently right will rise to the top.
> 
> I am merely curious what you think is happening inside the plant to increase your yield when you remove them.


It can and does help if you are in a cramped SOG grow looking for max yield in your space. You dont want a bunch of large fan leaves shading bud spots. Even Ed Rosenthal agrees with this. I wouldnt take his word for it so I tried it myself and sure enough yields and larger bud quality was better by a decent amount. Key is to leave all the fan leaves totally alone for the first 3 weeks of bloom then hack away at the fan leaves. The plants use the fan leaves mostly in veg and early flower. After that there ae plenty of other small leaves to give it what it needs.

BTW I use Big Bud as well and it works very well IMO.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jul 17, 2010)

Nice grow! I see what you mean, maybe touch them later on...I just dont mess with nature... This is medicine for me, so potency and quality is my goal. 

I have a variety of plants flowering right now...not really SOG, my plants are roughtly 4, 5 and 6 feet tall, have to start bending them and tieing them down to keep them under the lights....

this grow I messed up, was so eager and popped a lot of seeds.....wasnt thinking....have plants vegging that are huge...

My next strain is Medjuana, supposedly 25% THC, pain medicine...can't wait.


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## GreedAndVanity (Jul 18, 2010)

Sorry to have lagged but your buds look awesome so far. Big buds does work, and molasses for the myco herd is also a good bet. I have had problems keeping some of my myco herd from fruiting when having molasses its pretty awesome to see a nice symbiosis.


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## johnnycash (Jul 18, 2010)

This will fill the bill in the last few weeks. Without fail

http://gthydroponic.com/shop/gt/products-page/hydroponics/nutrients-additives/overdrive/


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jul 18, 2010)

GreedAndVanity said:


> Sorry to have lagged but your buds look awesome so far. Big buds does work, and molasses for the myco herd is also a good bet. I have had problems keeping some of my myco herd from fruiting when having molasses its pretty awesome to see a nice symbiosis.


Thanks! 2 days left on NYCD and about a week on the Super Skunk, she isnt skunky...but more disely....again, clone was given to me...

I use AN Bud Candy, which has molasses in it. Bud Candy is for Aroma and Flavor....also has carbs for my girls in their last days.....


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jul 18, 2010)

Here is the NYCD. Day 70 in 2 days.

I'll take more pics when lights are off, see detail a lot better.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jul 18, 2010)

Here is superskunk, week left.

again pics with lights off later.


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## GreedAndVanity (Jul 19, 2010)

I am not meaning to lecture but the carbs are not for your girls, they are for the fungi and bacteria that will in the end help feed your girls. Your girls produce all their own carbohydrates on their own fine. Fungi and bacteria which have similar needs to ourselves would love the carbs how ever and freak out which will help them to digest things within the rootzone and feed them to your plant.

My skunk smells exactly like super skunk but it has never smelled like a skunk to me. It has one of the sweetest smells I can think of and reminds me of some fruity pebbles with a lemon bite.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jul 20, 2010)

GreedAndVanity said:


> I am not meaning to lecture but the carbs are not for your girls, they are for the fungi and bacteria that will in the end help feed your girls. Your girls produce all their own carbohydrates on their own fine. Fungi and bacteria which have similar needs to ourselves would love the carbs how ever and freak out which will help them to digest things within the rootzone and feed them to your plant.
> 
> My skunk smells exactly like super skunk but it has never smelled like a skunk to me. It has one of the sweetest smells I can think of and reminds me of some fruity pebbles with a lemon bite.


Nice, thanks for the info....

then thats what mine smells like.....fruity pebbles with a hint of spice


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## MinDimension (Jul 20, 2010)

hey guys let me know what you think about the nutrients that i have been using for my veg stage. 
I have been mixing all these nutrients in water cal-mag, superthrive, aqua shield, hydrozen and pure blend. Let me know what you think... I havent had really any big problem with it so far.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jul 21, 2010)

Ok, Momma NYCD harvested. Now drying...


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jul 23, 2010)

crickets......

Here is the superskunk, few days left.


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## supadoopa (Jul 24, 2010)

looks tasty.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jul 24, 2010)

Yes it does, was inspecting it more today with the lights on...buds are so ready, crystally caked....can't wait...Monday is the day, could let her ripen another week...what do you think?


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jul 27, 2010)

Superskunk is done....coming down tonight.


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## GreedAndVanity (Jul 27, 2010)

You might want to wait another day or two for the deficiency of flush to set in a bit more some of those leaves look pretty dark still. Also it could be do to flash but are trichromes beginning to go amber at all?

I had to harvest a bunch of mine early, I was sad because they never had the chance to fill out properly. Better to harvest now then to let the whole lot go.


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## blazingtimes (Jul 28, 2010)

GreedAndVanity said:


> You might want to wait another day or two for the deficiency of flush to set in a bit more some of those leaves look pretty dark still. Also it could be do to flash but are trichromes beginning to go amber at all?
> 
> I had to harvest a bunch of mine early, I was sad because they never had the chance to fill out properly. Better to harvest now then to let the whole lot go.



Huh...good eyes.

I'll have to watch out for this in mine too.

Overall, this grow really was a good one though. Thanks for sharing this!!!!!!


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jul 28, 2010)

GreedAndVanity said:


> You might want to wait another day or two for the deficiency of flush to set in a bit more some of those leaves look pretty dark still. Also it could be do to flash but are trichromes beginning to go amber at all?
> 
> I had to harvest a bunch of mine early, I was sad because they never had the chance to fill out properly. Better to harvest now then to let the whole lot go.



Well I haven't cut her, been too lazy...so no biggie...but I haven't been waiting for the amber to set in....just be going off what site says for flower time.....with this girl, I'll experiment and wait till I see amber...

I mean, my NYCD went 70 days....to me she wasnt amber when I harvested, now when i opened a nug, trichromes inside are amber.....


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jul 28, 2010)

blazingtimes said:


> Huh...good eyes.
> 
> I'll have to watch out for this in mine too.
> 
> Overall, this grow really was a good one though. Thanks for sharing this!!!!!!



Will keep pics coming of her...


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jul 29, 2010)

Well momma NYCD is dried...now curing...she yielded 7oz's of cerebral medication!!!!!! So nice....

I am still letting superskunk go...no amber that I can see, will snap pics when lights are off....too bright right now


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## GreedAndVanity (Jul 29, 2010)

At the first signs of amber is a pretty good time. If the glands are milky I dont notice any heavy feelings really, it remains fairly up. Once barely amber it makes me want to sit and talk. Once amber has really set in it makes me want to watch TV and not relate with people.


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jul 30, 2010)

Ok, thats what I figured and have read....amber is more to the body where milky is head......

I still have the superskunk going, haven't cut her yet.....I would like to see her a little amber....

But seriously does the color really make that much of a difference? I mean all the commercial I buy is full amber....like this headband....but its a stone in the head not body....

I mean genetics have more to do with the effect, no? Sativa vs. Indica...stone or high

I guess I am looking at the trichrome color more as a "kicker"?


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jul 30, 2010)

Great info on Trichome's

When to harvest your trichomes 
There are several schools of thought as to when it is the time to harvest. I shall attempt to explain how you can determine the harvesting time that will produce the most favorable psychoactive effect for your individual preferences. 

We are most concerned with the capitate-stalked trichomes, as these contain the overwhelming majority of the psychoactive cannabinoids (THC, THCV, CBN). Different cannabinoids affect the high in a multifaceted manner. 


THC: 
delta-9-tetrahydrocannabinol & delta-8-tetrahydrocannabinol - THC mimics the action of anandamide, a neurotransmitter produced naturally in the body, which binds with the cannabinoid receptors in the brain to produce the â&#8364;&#732;highâ&#8364;&#8482; associated with marijuana. THC possesses high UV-B (280-315 nm) absorption properties. 

THCV: 
tetrahydrocannabivarin - prevalent in certain South African and Southeast Asian strains of cannabis. It is said to produce a â&#8364;&#732;clearer highâ&#8364;&#8482; & seems to possess many of the therapeutic properties of THC. 

CBD: 
cannabidiol - previously believed to be psychoactive, or to contribute to the high by interacting with other cannabinoids, conversely the most recent research indicates that CBD has negligible effect on the high, it is however a strong anti-inflammatory, and may take the edge off some THC effects, such as anxiety. CBD as a non-psychoactive cannabinoid appears to be helpful for many medical conditions. CBD biosynthesizes into cannabinol (CBN) & tetrahydrocannabinol (THC). 

CBN: 
cannabinol - a degradation product of THC, produces a depressant effect, â&#8364;&#732;fuzzyâ&#8364;&#8482; forehead. 

CBC: 
cannabichromene - non-psychoactive , a precursor to THC. 

CBG: 
cannabigerol - non-psychoactive, hemp strains often posses elevated levels of CBG while possessing only trace amounts of THC. 

Heavy trichome production is not necessarily an indication of a potent plant. Some hemp strains have moderate layers of trichomes yet pack only a strong headache. In a drug strain, a thick layer of trichomes is a symbol that it may well posses an elevated potency level, but it is certainly not a guarantee. 

What defines a cannabis drug strain is the plant's ability to produce THC & THCV. 

A small 25x or stronger pocket microscope, which can be picked up inexpensively at an electronics store like Radio Shack, works well for getting a closer peek at your trichome development. We are examining are the capitate stalked glandular trichomes, the coloration of these gland heads can vary between strains and maturity. Most strains start with clear or slightly amber heads which gradually become cloudy or opaque when THC levels have peaked and are beginning to degrade. Regardless of the initial color of the secretory cavity, with careful observation you should be able to see a change in coloration as maturity levels off. 

Some cultivators wait for about half of the secretory cavities to go opaque before harvesting, to ensure maximum THC levels in the finished product. Of course nothing tells the truth more than your own perception, so try samples at various stages to see what is best for you & the phenotype your are growing. While you may be increasing the total THC level in the bud by allowing half of the glands to go opaque, the bud will also have a larger percentage of THC breakdown products such as CBN, which is why some people choose to harvest earlier while most of the secretory cavities are still clear. 

Indica varieties will usually have a 10-15 day harvest window to work with. Sativas and Indica/Sativa hybrids often have an extended period to work with. 

Although cannabis resin glands called trichomes are structurally diverse, they come in three basic varieties: 


Bulbous: 
The bulbous type is the smallest (15-30 micron). From one to four cells make up the "foot" and "stalk," and one to four cells make up the "head" of the gland. Head cells secrete a resin - presumably cannabinoids, and related compounds which accumulate between the head cells and the cuticle. When the gland matures, a nipple-like protrusion may form on the membrane from the pressure of the accumulating resin. The bulbous glands are found scattered about the surfaces of the above-ground plant parts. 

Capitate-Sessile: 
The second type of gland is much larger & is more numerous than the bulbous glands. They are called capitate, which means having a globular-shaped head. On immature plants, the heads lie flush, appearing not to have a stalk and are called capitate sessile. They actually have a stalk that is one cell high, although it may not be visible beneath the globular head. The head is composed of usually eight, but up to 16 cells, that form a convex rosette. These cells secrete cannabinoids, and related compounds which accumulate between the rosette and it's outer membrane. This gives it a spherical shape. The gland measures from 25 to 100 micron across. 

Capitate-Stalked: 
Cannabinoids are most abundant in the capitate-stalked gland which consists of a tier of secretory disc cells subtending a large non-cellular secretory cavity. During flowering the capitate glands that appear on the newly formed plant parts take on a third form. Some of the glands are raised to a height of 150 to 500 micron when their stalks elongate. These capitate-stalked glands appear during flowering and form their densest cover on the female flower bracts. They are also highly concentrated on the small leaves that accompany the flowers. The male flowers have stalked glands on the sepals, but they are smaller and less concentrated than on the female bracts. Male flowers form a row of very large capitate glands along the opposite sides of anthers. 








Disc cells, attached to leaf or bract by stipe cells (RED) & basal cells (GREEN), release fibrillar wall matrix into secretory cavity where it contributes to thickening of subcuticular wall during enlargement of secretory cavity. Plastids (ORANGE) in disc cells produce secretions called lipoplasts which synthesize quantities of lipophilic substances that accumulate outside the plasma membrane, migrating into the endoplasmic reticular cytoplasm and through the plasma membrane and cell wall into the secretory cavity where they form vesicles (BLUE) in the secretory cavity. Vesicles in contact with the subcuticular wall release contents that contribute to the growth of the cuticle during the enlargement of the secretory cavity. THC occurs in the walls, fibrillar matrix & other contents surrounding the vesicles, but not in the vesicles. Trace amounts of THC is present in the disc cells


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## drop (Jul 31, 2010)

Tw3nti3ight said:


> Ok, thats what I figured and have read....amber is more to the body where milky is head......
> 
> I still have the superskunk going, haven't cut her yet.....I would like to see her a little amber....
> 
> ...


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## Tw3nti3ight (Jul 31, 2010)

drop said:


> Generally, trichomes turn amber after harvest no matter what. So if you take it down when it's clear or milky or whatever, they will likely develop amber hues as they dry and/or cure.
> 
> Who knows when the commercial you bought was harvested.
> 
> ...


I have noticed that about trichs....they amber on cure....so its better to harvest while THC is most potent...unless you want more CBN....my superskunk looks like she's on her last leg, but the buds are sexy...she is still milky...gonna cut her within the next day or so.

For the Record, I have 3 400W Super Blue MH for veg. They sit about 3 feet above the plants...its pretty damn bright....room is 10X8...
Flower is 3 400 watt Super HPS. My plants move to the floor when they go 12 12. Room is about 10 X 10.

Ok, its nutrients and my ppm that may be causing internodal stretching...during veg, I shy on the conservative side to not nute burn, etc....

Now, my NYCD I harvested was huge, she gave me 7ozs....that pheno of the NYCD has very short inter nodal stretching.....very nice.

I have made a switch to KoolBloom....going to try this on this batch and see....

I do want shorter inter-nodal stetching......going to try with increased ppm first...I drip irrigate so higher concentration should be ok....

If that doesn't work, then I will get light mounts so I can lower the lights while their young.....

Also, I have tweaked my flower setup....I re-pot into larger pots when they move 12 12....I use Happy Frog Organic soil. This boost of fresh nutes and microbes will only help with yield...not to mention the roots can now grow as well...my veg pots I am getting root bound....

Pheno type has a lot to do with it...I have 3 lemon ice's flowering, the oldest is a snake and true Sativa pheno with huge internodal stretching....the other two initially had internodal stretching but it ceased as they veg'd out...a lot tighter now.... look more bushy...


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## Tw3nti3ight (Aug 2, 2010)

Here is the superskunk...I am taking her down tomorrow...all her hairs are pretty much orange...still milky...not ambery......


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## Tw3nti3ight (Aug 2, 2010)

Oh AN changed their sensi bloom formula.....dropped Molybednum or whatever...added chelated micro's now....Iron too, I don't have to use CalMag anymore....


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## LIAMGREENFINGER (Aug 4, 2010)

Tw3nti3ight said:


> Thanks! Appreciate it.


 yea great growing man ! any chance of a bit of advise? started with the sensi bloom 2 part and introduced bigbud liquid ! i have canna pk 13-14 for a boost later but im growing in soil and worried about using the sensibloom as people say only for hydro ! any chance of telling me a good base feed for my plants? any advise is apreciated cheers dude!


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## Tw3nti3ight (Aug 4, 2010)

LIAMGREENFINGER said:


> yea great growing man ! any chance of a bit of advise? started with the sensi bloom 2 part and introduced bigbud liquid ! i have canna pk 13-14 for a boost later but im growing in soil and worried about using the sensibloom as people say only for hydro ! any chance of telling me a good base feed for my plants? any advise is apreciated cheers dude!


Thank you!

I use a 20 gallon reservoir for my nute soup. I use AN Sensi Bloom 2 part as well. For boost, I switched to GH KoolBloom dry for this set of girls...

People may say they are only for hydro, however, I am not having any issues at all with hydro nutes dripped into my soil.....AN makes organic tea's now...I may switch next batch and try those to be fully organic....

20 gallon reservoir, I use 1.5 cups of AN SensiBloom to start. After they transition and bud, I then go to 2 cups. I have drip irrigation that waters every 6 hours for 10 minutes.....I use to do the watering can, etc, when the soil is dry...yields were shitty so I added the irrigation and quality has improved immensly....

My friend before he passed, was in hydro using AN nutes....I saw his yield and was amazed...granted Hydro is different than soil....but you can tap the plant to its full potential if you are creative .

Keep it simple...it is a plant, it needs same nutes as other plants etc...it is all a N P K game....

You really have to find what works best for you and your setup.....it was all trial and error for me...Hope this helps, if you have any more questions, etc. Let me know!


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## Tw3nti3ight (Aug 5, 2010)

Here are my 2 NYCD's veggin and waiting for their turn to flower....this pheno has tight internodes...


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