# These Fans Are The Real Deal !!



## southfloridasean (Mar 31, 2008)

Yup, these are the real deal. Super compact, mounts very easy, ultra silent & more importantly they move a LOT of air. Way more silent than Vortex & Cap fans. I put pics below.


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## jonnyk (Mar 31, 2008)

What brand are they? expensive??


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## JohnnyBravo (Mar 31, 2008)

Only a stoner would post pics of fans, Brag about how great they are and then not tell us the manufacturer name...LOL


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## southfloridasean (Mar 31, 2008)

There soler & Palau. My Bad


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## southfloridasean (Mar 31, 2008)

They are priced right. If you need links fo good prices on them let me know.


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## GrimReefa (Mar 31, 2008)

wats the preices i nee done, can u add ducting to thosE?


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## southfloridasean (Mar 31, 2008)

Yeah their simple inline fans but are very compact & move tons of air. Hers two links that carry them.

Cheapest: Soler & Palau Commercial Centrifugal, Axial, Propeller, Exhaust and Supply Fans - Soler and Palau - HVACQuick.com

Affordable: Texas Hydroponics :: Environmental Control :: Fans & Ventilation :: Soler & Palau TD - Mixed Flow Fans


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## southfloridasean (Mar 31, 2008)

Take a look at this guys for mounting. Simple.


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## upinchronic1 (Mar 31, 2008)

any idea of the sones or dba?, how quiet?


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## southfloridasean (Mar 31, 2008)

Well I spoke to someone regarding that just today no contest when it comes to quietness.
Check this out & go to pg 2 http://www.hvacquick.com/catalog_files/solerpalau_TD_Extended_Catalog.pdf


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## upinchronic1 (Mar 31, 2008)

shit, link not working...


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## southfloridasean (Mar 31, 2008)

Click on the 1st link that I made @ 6:15pm. Once you get there click on the 1st or 2nd pdf file & go to pg 2.


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## edcocks (Mar 31, 2008)

I ordered the smallest version TD-100 last week after hours of research. Could not find any grower testimonials. I searched for ultra silent powerful blowers and this S&P MIXVENT blower sounded best. Hope it arrives soon as my temps are out of control and I want air and keep it ultra stealth. I assume from your post that this is a testimonial from personal experience?


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## FilthyFletch (Mar 31, 2008)

These look real similar to the inline fans used on boats. I just had to get some inlines for my boat I grabbed on ebay, by the way was agreat deal as its a 23 foot lund with traile 5 sleep cabin with motor for $3000, and I find them on ebay for about $0 they are anywhere from 250cfm to 1200 cfm depending on the model just have to hardwire a plug to the sires...Also watch out for Texas Hydro for some reason alot of chatter about them online and from word of mouth that they also report to police on thier buyers which makes no sense to me but when you start to see dozen of people saying the same you keep an eye open


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## southfloridasean (Apr 1, 2008)

Thats good info Filthy, but I prefer the 1st company from my post. Filthy thats also a good deal on the boat bee.

Edcocks I ordered two of these yesteday.

TD-200 S&P TD Series Inline Fan. Integrated Mounting Bracket Included. Usually ships within 1-2 Days. For 8 inch round duct - 538/476 cfm (high/low).

I still have to order one more for cooling lights. I will have three in all. One to scrub air in a closed room, one pushing cool air thru a cool tube & the other to pull the hot air from the cool tube.


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## FilthyFletch (Apr 1, 2008)

Yeah i could use some more inline fans but again Im cheap and usually try to make something at home. I have no idea but its like I challenge myself everytime for no reason. Im like I need a good blower fan then in my head I hear "Dude fuck that get some wire a blade a small motor and your welder and make it for 4#0" lol and I fall for it everytime.Gotta make my own nutes next


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## southfloridasean (Apr 1, 2008)

lol Your the Hydroponics Mcgyver Filthy. Next thing youll have some shit General Filthponics with the lil man with his hat on that you had in your previous avatar LMAO


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## FilthyFletch (Apr 1, 2008)

never know ya never know hmmm Filthy Nutes...They're a little dirty but will do you right


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## southfloridasean (Apr 1, 2008)

lol basically


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## genfranco (Apr 1, 2008)

southfloridasean said:


> Yup, these are the real deal. Super compact, mounts very easy, ultra silent & more importantly they move a LOT of air. Way more silent than Vortex & Cap fans. I put pics below.


 S&P TD Series Inline Fan. Integrated Mounting Bracket Included. Usually ships within 1-2 Days. For 6 inch round duct - 293/218 cfm (high/low). *1 to 4: $127.00
5+ Units: $122.00*

about 300 cfm is enough for a 10 foot run?


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## southfloridasean (Apr 1, 2008)

In the future us this formula.

Say you have a 10 x 10 x 9 foot room. That would be 900 cubic feet. Simply divide the cubic feet of the room which is 900 into the CFM of the fan which is 300. The answer would be 3. That means that a 300 CFM fan would exchange & clean the stale air of that size room within 3 minutes. Afan should remove stale airfrom aroom within 5mins. So yes a 300 CFM would be good if you have similar specs.


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## edcocks (Apr 4, 2008)

Just got mine today and installed it as the sole exhaust fan on my dresser sized cabinet(150 watt HPS and four 24" T5's). I got the smallest version TD-100 with the 4 inch inlet. Claimed 103 CFM. Keeps my temps perfect and makes very little noise. This was my third try to get an effective ultrastealthy fan and I finally got it right. The crappy Suncourt 6 inch fan moved air, but was noisy as hell. The Suncourt 4 inch did not move any air and was also noisy. I'm so happy to have found this type of duct fan. I recommend it highly to stealth cabinet growers. I paid $72 which includes shipping.


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## purplehaze2 (Apr 4, 2008)

nice fans! definatly look into that .those vortec fans are loud, that looks like you could mount it anywhere.


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## specialkayme (Apr 4, 2008)

I have a similar setup, but a little smaller. I was looking to utilize low sound, move about 100 cfm but be able to attach a carbon scrubber. Any idea how well these are able to push through a scrubber and still hit their cfm mark? Should I look at the TD-100 or the TD-125? Anyone with experience know?


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## SARSIPPIOUS (Apr 4, 2008)

Get the larger one.
Attach a fan controller ($20 or less), tune it to what suits you.


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## docfishwrinkle (Apr 4, 2008)

thx 4 tha info but may I ask why that avatar pic? do you know what he stands 4? bollocks


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## Picasso345 (Apr 4, 2008)

I looked through all that brochure but I'm not seeing any sound level info. dbs...sones. Looks pretty cool though. Kinda well designed like an Apple or something.


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## specialkayme (Apr 4, 2008)

Can anyone ball park the sound? I've heard they are quiet, but compared to a computer fan?


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## southfloridasean (Apr 5, 2008)

edcocks said:


> Just got mine today and installed it as the sole exhaust fan on my dresser sized cabinet(150 watt HPS and four 24" T5's). I got the smallest version TD-100 with the 4 inch inlet. Claimed 103 CFM. Keeps my temps perfect and makes very little noise. This was my third try to get an effective ultrastealthy fan and I finally got it right. The crappy Suncourt 6 inch fan moved air, but was noisy as hell. The Suncourt 4 inch did not move any air and was also noisy. I'm so happy to have found this type of duct fan. I recommend it highly to stealth cabinet growers. I paid $72 which includes shipping.


 
Im glad you got yours. Im licking my chops waiting for mine  still.


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## southfloridasean (Apr 5, 2008)

Picasso345 said:


> I looked through all that brochure but I'm not seeing any sound level info. dbs...sones. Looks pretty cool though. Kinda well designed like an Apple or something.


 
One of the PDF files has the info on sound compared to other fans. Trust me they are much more stealthy than vortex, can or the other bullshit fans they have out there. I first read about these in high times mag.


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## LoudBlunts (Apr 6, 2008)

have you tested these sean?


i call bullshit as their casing isnt plastic....that should can still vibrate the metal casing/housing right?????


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## edcocks (Apr 7, 2008)

specialkayme said:


> Can anyone ball park the sound? I've heard they are quiet, but compared to a computer fan?


I have the smallest version (TD-100) and it is louder that a computer fan, but not by much. The noise is mostly from the large amount of air movement.


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## #1accordfamily (Apr 7, 2008)

how far from it do u have to stand not to hear it?


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## southfloridasean (Apr 7, 2008)

LoudBlunts said:


> have you tested these sean?
> 
> 
> i call bullshit as their casing isnt plastic....that should can still vibrate the metal casing/housing right?????


 
I should have them by tomorrow but no later than Tuesday. Ground is slow as shit. Ill let you know as soon as I get them.


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## LoudBlunts (Apr 7, 2008)

thanks bro...make sure you distinguish the fan noise between the 'whoosing' of the airflow!!!!!!


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## southfloridasean (Apr 7, 2008)

LoudBlunts said:


> thanks bro...make sure you distinguish the fan noise between the 'whoosing' of the airflow!!!!!!


 
no problem.


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## Zekedogg (Apr 7, 2008)

I farted and still heard the fan


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## specialkayme (Apr 7, 2008)

speaking of, does anyone know how to get rid of that 'wooshing' sound, other than dialing it down?


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## LoudBlunts (Apr 7, 2008)

specialkayme said:


> speaking of, does anyone know how to get rid of that 'wooshing' sound, other than dialing it down?


insulated ducting!!!!!!!!


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## upinchronic1 (Apr 7, 2008)

what if i said i knew of a blower fan in the 500 cfm range with 1.7 sones? 

Just wondering cause i really dont know how to relate sones to noise, but i think a computer fan makes like .9 sones, so thats like a computer fan times 2? Sounds pretty good to me, but what do you all think?


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## LoudBlunts (Apr 7, 2008)

Sone - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


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## scabiesbaby (Apr 7, 2008)

specialkayme said:


> I have a similar setup, but a little smaller. I was looking to utilize low sound, move about 100 cfm but be able to attach a carbon scrubber. Any idea how well these are able to push through a scrubber and still hit their cfm mark? Should I look at the TD-100 or the TD-125? Anyone with experience know?


i have had better luck pulling thru a scrubber than pushing.. these fans aregreat good up to about a 4'x4' room if the light is exhaustedoh sorry the 4 inch one isthe fan i am talking aboot...


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## upinchronic1 (Apr 7, 2008)

yeah ive read that before but it doesnt give me an idea of 1.7 sones, so its about a very quiet room louder than two people talking from a meter distance, ohhh its so clear to me now.


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## southfloridasean (Apr 7, 2008)

Received the fans today. Now I gotta get a wire from homedepot to attach to it. I guess with cheap costs you cant get everything . Oh well thats life. I will keep everyone updated as far as "stealth" is concerned.  I need to get a speed controller for these things.


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## PurfectStorm (Apr 8, 2008)

I just ordered a td-100x as well, when it is shipped I will also post my thoughts on the fan.

lucky for me I found this thread just before making the plunge to buy a panasonic whisperline.


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## doggiepaddel11 (Apr 8, 2008)

Could someone please tell me how to start a new thread? I can't seem to find it anywhere. I have some pics to put up and I want to do it in my own thread...please help.


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## southfloridasean (Apr 8, 2008)

OK so I tuly believe that I made the right choice. The fans are absolutely fan-tastic (no pun intended). I put both fans in a bedroom, closed the door & put my television on & sat back to see if I could hear any vibrations or noise fromthe bedroom.Iheard absolutely nothing. However this was without ducting. Now as far as I know Im running them at 538 cfm but Im really unsure because I do not have the fan control as yet. The fans I have a re rated at 538 & 476 cfm. High recommendation.


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## southfloridasean (Apr 8, 2008)

doggiepaddel11 said:


> Could someone please tell me how to start a new thread? I can't seem to find it anywhere. I have some pics to put up and I want to do it in my own thread...please help.


 
Go to the forum you wish to post the thread in such as indoor growing, hydroponics, harvesting, etc......Then go to thread tools I believe it is & start your thread.


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## doggiepaddel11 (Apr 8, 2008)

Thanks bro....I feel like an idiot. I haven't smoked all day and I'm trippin


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## edcocks (Apr 9, 2008)

I wonder if he's okay. Maybe someone should check on him. I'm worried as he has not posted his thread yet. Kidding of course.


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## mattman0217 (Apr 10, 2008)

How would you place one of this in the a closet do they generate any heat?


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## specialkayme (Apr 10, 2008)

Reread the rest of the thread. Instillation guide is posted in one of the previous pages. As far as heat build up, I am not sure, but it extracts way more heat than it could possibly ever produce.


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## specialkayme (Apr 14, 2008)

I ordered a TD-125 and got it today. Installed it and everything. I ordered a rheostat for it too, to control the CFM a bit and hopefully control the sound as well. However, I must say I'm a little disapointed. It can move some serious air, that's for sure, and if I had a grow room it would be perfect. I only have a grow cabinet though, and I was hoping to keep it stealth. This fan, while it moves some massive air, has a humming/buzzing sound to it. When I dial down the rheostat to it, the CFM goes down, but the buzzing/humming gets louder. Significantly louder. Which is the opposite reason why I put it on in the first place. But without it, it's moving so much air it's making a loud whooshing sound. Going to have to try and figure out how to quiet this thing down more than this.


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## southfloridasean (Apr 14, 2008)

Attach insulated ducting that will help out with thebuzzing humming sound. Trust me.  You may even want to add a duct muffler.


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## LoudBlunts (Apr 14, 2008)

dont mount it directly to the wood. put some type of rubber. something to absorb the vibration.

the whoosing from the air can be silenced with insulated ducting...

simple problems, simple fixes


i still root for the sunleaves windtunnel tho!


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## specialkayme (Apr 15, 2008)

I put weatherstripping inbetween the fan and the wood. It isn't in direct contact. And most of the sound that I'm hearing isn't the wooshing air, actually. It's the buzzing/humming from the fan. It gets louder as I dial it down, which I thought it would get quieter. I just can't figure out why it is doing this.


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## LoudBlunts (Apr 15, 2008)

how bout not dialing it down?


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## specialkayme (Apr 15, 2008)

That's what my project for the next half an hour will be. I'll let you know how it goes. I was reluctant to do this, because I installed the fan in a somewhat tight fit for my hands. At least tight enough that I can't get the cover off and rewire it without taking the fan appart. But whatever, I'll toy with it and let you know how ti goes.


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## specialkayme (Apr 15, 2008)

Ok, so I toyed with it a little bit, and I think I may have figured out the problem. At first I switched the common wire with the other one. I personally don't know the difference, so when I wired it up I just took one and put it through the rheostat, and the other one directly to the fan. I switched them figuring that maybe I did it wrong. This did nothing. Still a humming, buzzing sound. So I took the rheostat off. That seems to work, no buzzing humming sound. Now, without it being restricted, I get the whooshing sound. Haha, but a much easier solved problem I figure. I'll go out and get some insulated ducting later today. Hopefully this will get rid of the sound. I hope it doesn't come down to a duct muffler. I don't think I'll have room inside the cab for a duct muffler, carbon scrubber, fan, light, and plants. I am reluctant to put things on the outside of the cab, for stealth reasons, but I'll do what I have to do. Come to think of it I think I'm going to have to put the insulated ducting on the outside of the back of the cab. But oh well, I think it'll be ok. I'll let you guys know how it goes. Thanks for the help.


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## LoudBlunts (Apr 15, 2008)

most definitely...


what about insulated ducted?

are you using neoprene-lined clamps to help the other things in check with the vibration?

fuck weatherstripping....go get the smallest thing of dynamat...or any sound dampening material. insulate everything.

you can even wrap your damn fan!!!!

overseas they put shit in boxes, i've seen them custom made and sold as i've never seen it around here in the states....


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## specialkayme (Apr 15, 2008)

LoudBlunts said:


> most definitely...
> 
> 
> what about insulated ducted?
> ...


I'm planning on going to get insulated ducting today, should I not?

And what are neoprene-lined clamps?

Can you elaborate on what dynamat is, and what exactly I should be insulating?

I've heard of people taking the box that the fan came in, cutting holes in it so the fan will work, then packing shipping peanuts in it. I've heard it works fairly well, but I don't have the space for this. I was lucky enough to fit the fan in there, I think anything else I add (the box, peanuts, ect) takes away from the space that I can grow the plants. I don't feel comfortable going much smaller than I do though, so I'm trying to work with what I have.


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## LoudBlunts (Apr 15, 2008)

yes get insulated ducting.


google those clamps and dynamat!!!!!!!!!!11


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## southfloridasean (Apr 15, 2008)

specialkayme said:


> I'm planning on going to get insulated ducting today, should I not?
> 
> And what are neoprene-lined clamps?
> 
> ...




Noise reduction clamps. 
Insulated ducting.
Duct muffler.


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## southfloridasean (Apr 15, 2008)

Your mounting set up might be a little off. Im not having that issue & my fans pull much larger cfm than yours.


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## specialkayme (Apr 15, 2008)

Do you have a rheostat hooked up to it?


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## southfloridasean (Apr 15, 2008)

No I dont have the fan control as yet.


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## 1freezy (Apr 16, 2008)

Love the look of these!


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## mattman0217 (Apr 16, 2008)

PLEASE HELP - driving myself crazy

I plan on using these fans for a updtaed growbox. From what i have heard these are the quietest fans available for how much cfm they push while having a good SP rating...would anyone disagree?

I am currently building a cabinet similar to the SuperCloset. I purchased 2 3x2x6.5 metal cabinets.

Cabinet 1 will be used for flowering and contain a 600 HPS and 6 plant aero system.

The top 1/3 of cabinet 2 will be for my hardware fans/ballast/ducting/co2 etc. The bottom 2/5ths of this box will be used for Veg/mother chamber running 8000+ Lumens 8 tube 2" I already have purchased, plus some other T5's if I need them.

I need some expert advice on the ventalation of the cabinet/veg chambers. I have ready everthing I could and all hear more is everything is better. Here is what I have in mind. Seal the two cbinets completely. Remove a 2x2 piece between the cabinets at the top esientally connecting the top 1/3 of the right cabinet to the left flowering cabinet. I have a 6 inch cool light tube will be passive intake from top back of floweing cabinet and connect to the TD-200X rated at 478 CFM at 0 static pressure and 285 at .75 static pressure. I will then have a second S&P TD-200x for the ventalation pulling through a can-filter 33 which is 12 diameter and 12 long and a fax cfm of 200 which is about 70% of the 200x. Due to its size and my pursuit of height for the sativa, it will be in the top 1/3 of the cabinet on the right that is connected to the Floweing chamber and sealed off from the rest of the right closet. For the ventalation of the veg chamber i will have a TD-100 rated at 100 cfm pulling a can Filter 2600 running staright up and utilizing the same 8 inch exhaust duct ast the fan and flowering ventalation output. Both fans will obviously put on fan controls.

Intake to the floweing chamber will be a 6" passive hooked up to a Cape Damper. The veg will have a 4" passive with a cape damper.

I have a CAP XGC-1 fully automated enviro controler with PPM and fuzzy.

Do you think the td-200 fan are overkill for cooling the 600hps cool tube? 7 feet 6" ducting 1 right angle and 4 ft of the ducting flexible...
Do you think the td-200 fan are over kill for the 40sq ft flower chamber? Pulling through a can filter 33(.75 sp) that has max cfm at 200 and the TD 200 is 70% at .75 sp and 1 right angel 
Do you think the passive intakes are sufficient? Which Dampers do you recommend?
Are all fan speed controllers created equal which are best?
Are the panasonic fans better than these?

Will i be able to keep the buzzing down when using speed control? I spoke to S&P today and they said as long as you run the fans above 40% using the variable there will be no buzz. so at 40% of the numbers I metioned above do you feel i would be moving too much CFM for it not to be heard outside the room the closet resides in? Once the fans are placed in the top 1/3 of the right cabinet they will be covered with anything that will dampen the sounds. Unfortnately I will have only 1 inch of space for some of the thinner areas of insulation. Any recommendations on the material to use. I heard those foam beds material works well and have and i have a older tempurpedic 6" pad i can tear into.
Will you be able to hear the cabinet from outside the room it resides in?

Any suggestions on how i mount the fans in the closet? I've already ready their install guide etc.. Can they just be placed on their side on a shelf that has a 3" foam pad on it?

Any suggestions would be greatly appeciated.


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## specialkayme (Apr 16, 2008)

mattman0217 said:


> Will i be able to keep the buzzing down when using speed control? I spoke to S&P today and they said as long as you run the fans above 40% using the variable there will be no buzz. so at 40% of the numbers I metioned above do you feel i would be moving too much CFM for it not to be heard outside the room the closet resides in? Once the fans are placed in the top 1/3 of the right cabinet they will be covered with anything that will dampen the sounds. Unfortnately they I will have only 1 inch of space for some of the thinner areas of insulation. Any recommendations on the material to use. I heard those foam beds material works well and have and i have a older tempurpedic 6" pad i can tear into.
> 
> Any suggestions on how i mount the fans in the closet? can they just be placed on their side on a shelf that has a 3" foam pad on it?
> 
> Any suggestions would be gratly appeciated.


Well, the rest of your post gave me a headache. I really wasn't planning on reading the specs of a grow op. I also am not very good at visualizing something. I have to see it. So I can't help you there. Others on here for sure can.

As for using speed control, I havn't met anyone else on here that has tried using one. As far as I know I'm the only one, and I have failed at it miserably. The fan is MUCH quieter operating without the control than it ever could be with the control. I don't know why, but whenever I hook that control up it just buzzes like a hornets nest. Who knows. Still very quiet without the control on it. Plus, the fan has a High and Low settings on it already, so just go with those. As far as that 40% thing goes, I call bullshit. Anything less than 90% buzzed like crazy.

I ordered some insulated ducting (they don't have 5" at the hardware store), along with some dynamat material. Looks cool. Going to try it, hopefully it will reduce nearly all of the light rattling I have right now. I'll let you guys know how it works out.

And if anyone was interested, I attached 4" regular ducting to it, sealed it up a little, added a bit more weatherstripping for now and it's manageable. You can't hear it once the door is closed (from outside the room at least), but it would be loud enough to wake me up if it started up while I was sleeping in the room. Working on it though.


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## mattman0217 (Apr 16, 2008)

SpecialK

Did you order the speed controller from Fantech BOSCH AirScape Suncourt Metlund Laing Thermaflex Exhausto Mr. Heater Dayus Airscape Paloma and more. ( place you order the ordered the fan from?)


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## specialkayme (Apr 16, 2008)

Yup, got the TD-125 plus the Fantech 0-100% Variable Speed Controler WC - 15. It was the cheapest one. I didn't think it mattered.

Located here:

Fantech Speed Controls and Switches - Fantech SCD5 SCD7 WC15 RPE10 RPE10 RPE210 FD30M FD60EM FLD60 FH20 FAT10 FPS10 VT20A VT20M - HVACQuick.com


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## hondamatt74 (Apr 17, 2008)

i took a good look at these fans and all related info and for the price you {are} getting more fan for your buck than most closet grows need and that is always good . it get's my vote 5 out of 5 hit's


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## LocoMonkey (Apr 17, 2008)

I can confirm that these fans are quiet. I have one in my grow right now. 







I purchased a larger one than I needed and attached it to a speed controller. That way I can keep the fan at a lower speed, minimizing the noise while blowing out enough hot air. The vortex fan I had prior was noisier.


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## upinchronic1 (Apr 17, 2008)

Hey, these guys would accept debit right? Just want to make sure..Thanks much. There so damn compact!


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## southfloridasean (Apr 17, 2008)

upinchronic1 said:


> Hey, these guys would accept debit right? Just want to make sure..Thanks much. There so damn compact!


 
Before you do anything check out horticulturesource.com they have a sale on them right now. Even cheaper than the other sites I posted.  Good luck.


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## southfloridasean (Apr 17, 2008)

LocoMonkey said:


> I can confirm that these fans are quiet. I have one in my grow right now.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Loco Im telling you wemade the right decisions.


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## southfloridasean (Apr 17, 2008)

specialkayme said:


> Yup, got the TD-125 plus the Fantech 0-100% Variable Speed Controler WC - 15. It was the cheapest one. I didn't think it mattered.
> 
> Located here:
> 
> Fantech Speed Controls and Switches - Fantech SCD5 SCD7 WC15 RPE10 RPE10 RPE210 FD30M FD60EM FLD60 FH20 FAT10 FPS10 VT20A VT20M - HVACQuick.com


 
This controller is even cheaper & the best part of all theres no wiring involved. Just plug the fan into the back of the fan control cord.

THE SPEEDSTER - VARIABLE FAN SPEED CONTROL - Environmental Controllers, CO2, Fans / Blowers / Ducting, Air Purification, Odor - Fans, Blowers & Ducting - THE SPEEDSTER - VARIABLE FAN SPEED CONTROL [736617] - HorticultureSource.com


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## specialkayme (Apr 17, 2008)

Not cheaper. Mine was 18.50. But not like it did me any good. The thing was a waste, as it made it more loud, not less.


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## PurfectStorm (Apr 18, 2008)

Well, my TD-100x came in yesterday, and I have yet to hook it up.

What gauge and type of wire, and how did you guys to hook it up to a plug?


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## upinchronic1 (Apr 18, 2008)

southfloridasean said:


> Before you do anything check out horticulturesource.com they have a sale on them right now. Even cheaper than the other sites I posted.  Good luck.


Yeah man, Yeah! hey you know your all right. Just picked up a fan and one of those speed controllers, your like the ole knowlegable one on these deals man. Cheaper than ebay with the speedsters! Im hoping to have my order in a week or two, ill give a report, The even accept M/O, tiiight, thanks


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## southfloridasean (Apr 18, 2008)

upinchronic1 said:


> Yeah man, Yeah! hey you know your all right. Just picked up a fan and one of those speed controllers, your like the ole knowlegable one on these deals man. Cheaper than ebay with the speedsters! Im hoping to have my order in a week or two, ill give a report, The even accept M/O, tiiight, thanks


No problem. Happy to help.


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## LocoMonkey (Apr 19, 2008)

southfloridasean said:


> Loco Im telling you wemade the right decisions.


Aint that the truth! I am just glad to help spread some joy and add to the community!


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## PurfectStorm (Apr 19, 2008)

WOW i hooked up my fan last night...and it is absolutely quiet behind my closet door, and thats not even with my insulated ducting hooked up yet 

thanks for the good tip on fans sean. +rep


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## southfloridasean (Apr 19, 2008)

PurfectStorm said:


> WOW i hooked up my fan last night...and it is absolutely quiet behind my closet door, and thats not even with my insulated ducting hooked up yet
> 
> thanks for the good tip on fans sean. +rep


No problem man. They are phenomenal arent they? Enjoy.


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## specialkayme (Apr 22, 2008)

So after much fuss, I give my blessing on these fans. I had to special order insulated ducting, and get some Fat Mat sound reducing material, but I think it was all worth it. Crazy quiet, moves a bunch of air, and in my small cab temps stay around 82. Very good from what I've seen. Does make a little bit of noise, but with a ceiling fan moving, you can't even tell.


----------



## southfloridasean (Apr 22, 2008)

specialkayme said:


> So after much fuss, I give my blessing on these fans. I had to special order insulated ducting, and get some Fat Mat sound reducing material, but I think it was all worth it. Crazy quiet, moves a bunch of air, and in my small cab temps stay around 82. Very good from what I've seen. Does make a little bit of noise, but with a ceiling fan moving, you can't even tell.


Happy to hear you got things resolved. Fat mat?.....Is that something like the mats on the floor of gyms or something?


----------



## specialkayme (Apr 22, 2008)

No, it's like dynamat, only the cheaper version. If you search 'dynamat' on ebay, fat mat products comes up. It's a sound and vibration reducing material. It also insulates a little bit. Great on the walls of my cab.


----------



## southfloridasean (Apr 22, 2008)

Great that goods to know.


----------



## old yeller (May 2, 2008)

If you guys want a fan speed control that won't buzz the fan motor when you reduce the speed, you'll need a 120v Variac 3-5 amp transformer.


----------



## upinchronic1 (May 2, 2008)

Anyone here try to reduce the speed on these fans?


----------



## southfloridasean (May 2, 2008)

upinchronic1 said:


> Anyone here try to reduce the speed on these fans?


I think specialkayme did. He got a fantech speed controller.


----------



## specialkayme (May 3, 2008)

southfloridasean said:


> I think specialkayme did. He got a fantech speed controller.


And it sucked


----------



## southfloridasean (May 3, 2008)

Did you get the other one that I posted?


----------



## specialkayme (May 3, 2008)

no, I gave up trying to use a speed controler


----------



## SARSIPPIOUS (May 3, 2008)

Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
Speed contoller $12.99
I own three.


----------



## southfloridasean (May 3, 2008)

SARSIPPIOUS said:


> Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
> Speed contoller $12.99
> I own three.


Excellent find. Thats even cheaper than the hydroponic stores @ $13.00.


----------



## southfloridasean (May 3, 2008)

specialkayme said:


> no, I gave up trying to use a speed controler


The dynamat is working out huh?


----------



## mattman0217 (May 3, 2008)

I am building a cab now. I have two steel cabinets taht are 2 x 3 x 7 . I have 2 Sand P 200 x pushing 478 cfm. One for my cool tube and one for a can filter 33 carbon scrubber. I also have a TD-100 venting my veg through a can filter 2900.

I took that fatmat advice and was able to silent everything. I put 1 layer on all walls of the cabinets and approx 4 layers around the compartment housing the fans. I also put 2 layers around by ducting. I am still finishing he box up but my preliminary tests with he fat mat are excellent. 

The fatmat is an aluminum sheet with about 2-3 mm of tar like adhesive/sound damping material. For my fan chamber i put up a few layers and then spayed it with spay adhesive. I then put ripped up high density foam over the spray adhesive. I coverd the foam with a final layer of the fatmat creating a pillow effect. Works great...


----------



## southfloridasean (May 4, 2008)

mattman0217 said:


> I am building a cab now. I have two steel cabinets taht are 2 x 3 x 7 . I have 2 Sand P 200 x pushing 478 cfm. One for my cool tube and one for a can filter 33 carbon scrubber. I also have a TD-100 venting my veg through a can filter 2900.
> 
> I took that fatmat advice and was able to silent everything. I put 1 layer on all walls of the cabinets and approx 4 layers around the compartment housing the fans. I also put 2 layers around by ducting. I am still finishing he box up but my preliminary tests with he fat mat are excellent.
> 
> The fatmat is an aluminum sheet with about 2-3 mm of tar like adhesive/sound damping material. For my fan chamber i put up a few layers and then spayed it with spay adhesive. I then put ripped up high density foam over the spray adhesive. I coverd the foam with a final layer of the fatmat creating a pillow effect. Works great...



Thanks for the input.


----------



## LoudBlunts (May 4, 2008)

told yall sound dampening material would work!!!!


----------



## hemlockstones (May 4, 2008)

try this....

Fan, Ceiling Fans | Big Ass Fans


----------



## LoudBlunts (May 4, 2008)

yea right.....


----------



## southfloridasean (May 4, 2008)

hemlockstones said:


> try this....
> 
> Fan, Ceiling Fans | Big Ass Fans


 WTF


----------



## mattman0217 (May 4, 2008)

I also use the speed controllers. What I found is that they do generate some noises from the motor but not very much. If you run the fan above I would say 50% of max , the spead controller does not cause any hum.

What i did note the speed controller is not accurate. For example if you put the speed controller at 75% speed, the fan is truely at about 40% speed which is not a big deal. But it may be why some people say anything below 80%-90% will cause noise.

I use the speedster and td-200x both recommened on this thread because i like the simple set-up. You just plug the wired fan into it.

I am also the one using the fatmat, I just wanted to note that the fans are quiet enough that you do not hear them outside the cabinet without any insulation. The noise that is generated is from the air movement alone. The fans are quiter than the panasonic whisper I have in a cabinet i bulit for server storage with similar placement, CFM , and ducting.

Thanks for everones input on this thread, this is what rollitup is all about.


----------



## mattman0217 (May 4, 2008)

Also the PDF that has details on the fan on the HVAC site posted earlier in this thread is extremely useful if considering one of these fans.

For example I am using a can filter 33 that causes a static pressure of .75 and is rated for 200 cfm(found on the can filter website). Using the chart in the PDF file I simply went to .75 in the SP column to see what S&P fan pushed greater than 200 cfm at .75 sp. Chose the TD-200x.

The can filter 2900 causes .25 SP and recommends 50 cfm. Did the same thing for this and chose the TD-100.

You will also notice in the PDF the materials. Models larger than teh TD-150 use steel as opposed to the plastic. Except for the TD-200x that is. The TD-200x uses plastic and pushes slightly less cfm than the TD-200 but has better cfm against the higher static pressures. I wanted the ABS plastic over steel because they are supposed to run more silent and last longer.

Point being, check out that PDF if you are interested in these fans. It contains size measurements (note the small square box where the wiring is can just be unscrewd as it is unneeded wasted space), max operating temperatures, and CFM ratings against different Static Pressures.

Mounting instructions are included to, but i simply place mine on 1/2 inch foam and there is no vibration what so ever. i would not gain anything personally by mounting it.


----------



## southfloridasean (May 4, 2008)

mattman0217 said:


> Also the PDF that has details on the fan on the HVAC site posted earlier in this thread is extremely useful if considering one of these fans.
> 
> For example I am using a can filter 33 that causes a static pressure of .75 and is rated for 200 cfm(found on the can filter website). Using the chart in the PDF file I simply went to .75 in the SP column to see what S&P fan pushed greater than 200 cfm at .75 sp. Chose the TD-200x.
> 
> ...



Another happy customer.


----------



## mdgcmd (May 4, 2008)

These are really good fans and are quiter than a vortex, but they are not designed to be used under pressure. I mean they do not have what it really take to push through a scrubber while pulling through a hose, or grow box. On the other hand they are absolutely great booster fans and should not be disregarded.


----------



## southfloridasean (May 4, 2008)

You really dont want to push thru a scrubber. Pulling or sucking is always better. Now as far as airflow they are much better than centrifugal fans however as far as static pressure they are about three notches below. Look on pg 3 of this link to see comparisons you will see comparison ratios for noise, airflow & static pressure.


----------



## southfloridasean (May 4, 2008)

oops forgot the lnk http://www.hvacquick.com/catalog_files/solerpalau_TD_Extended_Catalog.pdf


----------



## FullMetalJacket (May 4, 2008)

MdgCmd - While i can respect you belief that these fans do not do well with carbon scubbers I do not think that is a valid statement. What do you base this on? I just hate to see people who do not know better pass on incorrect information plus it hurts your creditbility.

Also on that PDF SouthFlorida just posted you will see a chart of what the cfm is when a certain amount of static pressure is applied.

For example a can carbon filter 33 recommends 200 cfm max and causes .75 SP. The 200x model is more than enough. I cannot open my doors when i have it on low speed pulling through the carbon scrubber. I just started a new thread with using these fans in 3 areas as well as the fatmat.

https://www.rollitup.org/grow-room-design-setup/70716-building-stealth-super-cabinet-least.html

Thanks again SouthFlorida


----------



## southfloridasean (May 4, 2008)

FullMetalJacket said:


> MdgCmd - While i can respect you belief that these fans do not do well with carbon scubbers I do not think that is a valid statement. What do you base this on? I just hate to see people who do not know better pass on incorrect information plus it hurts your creditbility.
> 
> Also on that PDF SouthFlorida just posted you will see a chart of what the cfm is when a certain amount of static pressure is applied.
> 
> ...


No problem man. Anytime & all the best to you & your grow.


----------



## hemlockstones (May 4, 2008)

southfloridasean said:


> WTF


....joke....


----------



## old yeller (May 5, 2008)

FMJ - Beautiful cabinet!! Ain't plasma cutters the shit? I'm bettin' you keep it.
Love the 3 S&P's - i'm still doing the math on my wierd space to see which model would be best for me. I'm gonna try the Harbor Freight router controller first, but i see myself gettin' a 3 amp Variac in the end.


----------



## FullMetalJacket (May 5, 2008)

TY old yeller yea plama cutters are cool. I was able to actually cut most of my smaller cuts in my living room..lol. No smell or residue really. Kind of expensive though if i never use it again.


----------



## old yeller (May 6, 2008)

I used one to make this...


----------



## specialkayme (May 6, 2008)

southfloridasean said:


> The dynamat is working out huh?


Not perfect, but works well. That and the insulated ducting.


----------



## upinchronic1 (May 7, 2008)

specialkayme said:


> no, I gave up trying to use a speed controler


WHy? Is the hum to loud for you?


----------



## LoudBlunts (May 7, 2008)

generally speaking, yes!


----------



## upinchronic1 (May 7, 2008)

mattman0217 said:


> I also use the speed controllers. What I found is that they do generate some noises from the motor but not very much. If you run the fan above I would say 50% of max , the spead controller does not cause any hum.
> 
> What i did note the speed controller is not accurate. For example if you put the speed controller at 75% speed, the fan is truely at about 40% speed which is not a big deal. But it may be why some people say anything below 80%-90% will cause noise.
> 
> ...


Yeah i just got mine in yesterday, same model, and the hum fwith the speed controll is a dissapointment. It sounds like a genereator or something at half speed, which is shity because if the motor didnt make a sound, this thing would be absolutly undetectable/hearable in any cab, Too bad but yeah i also noticed that if you reduce it by a little less than 1/3 its very quiet, I noticed theres a point where the humming dies down but then the wooooosh of air takes its place somewhere right between there, i think, is the best bet. 

Overall, this being my first fan and all i cant say mutch, Im just hoping i can silence it in my utility cab i have. Though i would never relate it to a jet engine, for what that is worth, when its on full speed theres no motor noise at all, just the explosion of air coming out of it. Very glad i got it, So compact!


----------



## LoudBlunts (May 7, 2008)

vortex's are the jet engines...lol!


----------



## upinchronic1 (May 7, 2008)

i read up a little bit, and see whats up, specialk

I also read posts of how these fans arnt good with carbon scrubbers... But Those scrubbers have a thick layer of filter usually right? What if you just took a dehumidifier carbon scrubber from your big box store, and just do the DIy scrubber with one layer of this material? Ive dealt with the shit before, its reall porous, plus enlarging it so theres more surface area and less pressure needed? 

Hey mattman - Is your fan silent in your cab with the fattman? Like i said i have the same fan and would love to hear some stealth facts, you have any pics??


----------



## LoudBlunts (May 7, 2008)

upinchronic..... look at full metal jacket's thread: https://www.rollitup.org/grow-room-design-setup/70716-building-stealth-super-cabinet-least.html


----------



## southfloridasean (May 8, 2008)

LoudBlunts said:


> upinchronic..... look at full metal jacket's thread: https://www.rollitup.org/grow-room-design-setup/70716-building-stealth-super-cabinet-least.html


I checked that thread out to because of your post. Hes got a good thing going on. Very neat set up.


----------



## southfloridasean (May 8, 2008)

These carbon filters seem to have very good CFM ratings that accommodate S&P's fans. They are the Dutch Breeze line from General Hydroponics. The only place I know that has them is BGhydro.com


----------



## LoudBlunts (May 8, 2008)

sean....you aint going to fuck with those carbon scrubbers we looked into?



i also like mountainAire scrubbers too


----------



## southfloridasean (May 8, 2008)

LoudBlunts said:


> sean....you aint going to fuck with those carbon scrubbers we looked into?
> 
> 
> 
> i also like mountainAire scrubbers too



The hepa shits right? I really dont know if they are that effective. I havent seen much peple use them but I would absolutely love to. Also the mountainaire scrubbers are to over priced man. You cant find a good deal on them anywhere it seems like. Right now its between carbonaire & dutch breeze air filters. Ill probably get a hepa for a test cycle.


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## LoudBlunts (May 8, 2008)

you didnt see bamm bamm? he used it...said he had no problems


i got a few friends @ ICMAG

im bout to put in my order for one of the hepa intake filters and the freshmaker carbon scrubber


the only deals i've found on the mountainaire is on ebay!!!


----------



## LoudBlunts (May 8, 2008)

southfloridasean said:


> I checked that thread out to because of your post. Hes got a good thing going on. Very neat set up.



i wish i had $650 to blow on a plasma cutter.

i would have a metal cab instead of a wood cab


----------



## southfloridasean (May 8, 2008)

So Bam Bam said it works good....I believe I did see that in his thread a while ago. I gotta recheck but I take your word on it.


----------



## southfloridasean (May 8, 2008)

Yeah the plasma cutters are good if your cutting thru metal alot, you probably wont ever need to use it that much though. Plus the hole cutters on ebay are like $16 bucks for two 16 piece sets.


----------



## LoudBlunts (May 8, 2008)

southfloridasean said:


> So Bam Bam said it works good....I believe I did see that in his thread a while ago. I gotta recheck but I take your word on it.



recheck the thread.


he was giving me like weekly, bimonthly status reports on the filter


----------



## southfloridasean (May 8, 2008)

LoudBlunts said:


> recheck the thread.
> 
> 
> he was giving me like weekly, bimonthly status reports on the filter


Yeah I just read thru the thread again. I just asked him what his final evaluaton was on it?


----------



## LoudBlunts (May 8, 2008)

Bamm Bamm said:


> Its worked well for this whole grow so far I need to clean i but don't feel like it till at least Im done harvesting=)



...................


----------



## jonnyk (May 12, 2008)

Do theese fans come assmebled, or do you need to wire it up n shit??


----------



## upinchronic1 (May 12, 2008)

just got to put the cord on, and your set..


----------



## FullMetalJacket (May 12, 2008)

Yea i had no idea how to wire them at first as i never build shit... and everyone takes the ease for granted. But all you do is buy a cheap extension cord and cut off the female end and splice the wires into the live and neutral. Then connect them to the corresponding wires on the fan. You can hook up a ground if you want too.

The fan has a little wiring harness where you just put the wire in and screw it down with a screw driver...


----------



## upinchronic1 (May 12, 2008)

( i got a precut cord with mine)


----------



## FullMetalJacket (May 12, 2008)

upinchronic1 said:


> ( i got a precut cord with mine)


where did you order from upinchronic?


----------



## upinchronic1 (May 12, 2008)

Shit i forget, i think it was, nope, cant recall, but its a link that i got off this thread. hold on... its bugging me now..


----------



## upinchronic1 (May 12, 2008)

HorticultureSource.com - Discount Specialty Gardening Supplies, got it on sale for 133 with like 15 for shipping, and that was with my speedster


----------



## FullMetalJacket (May 12, 2008)

Yea i cant beleive how cheap they are there 133 for the 200x and 175 for the 250 that pushes over like 700cfm, and it sounds like they hook you up w/ a cord... i paid 170 for the 200x and had to buy my own cord. I am looking for a reason to buy another fan...lol.


----------



## upinchronic1 (May 12, 2008)

No! Thats a damn good deal, to bad you didnt catch it on this thread earlier man. Buy it, you can always buy another cabinet, commen sense man..


----------



## FullMetalJacket (May 12, 2008)

That awesome..another cab not because i want to grow more or need one...just so i can take advantage of good price on an awesome fan and can build a cab around it..

Commeon sense you call it huh..lol


----------



## jonnyk (May 12, 2008)

So guys, these things are better than those other fans, fore sure?


----------



## FullMetalJacket (May 12, 2008)

I believe so but i have only compared them w/ comparable fantec and panasonic whispers...


----------



## upinchronic1 (May 12, 2008)

FullMetalJacket said:


> Yea i cant beleive how cheap they are there 133 for the 200x and 175 for the 250 that pushes over like 700cfm, and it sounds like they hook you up w/ a cord... i paid 170 for the 200x and had to buy my own cord. I am looking for a reason to buy another fan...lol.


Want to make a trade?


----------



## jonnyk (May 12, 2008)

Dudes, I have a question. 
In my room, 7.5 X 8 x8. I have this one 6 in. vent. 
And in my room I need to vent out the hoods, as well as the rooms air its self. 
Can I turn that one 6 in vent into two vents? One for the room and one for the hoods, all exiting into the same hole with one fan?? Mybae one 6 in , and one 8 in?
Thanks

-J


----------



## jonnyk (May 12, 2008)

I have central A/C on the ceiling. Can I do something with that?


----------



## jonnyk (May 12, 2008)

Im def using these fans for my room, for the record... Thanks for the help.

-J


----------



## southfloridasean (May 13, 2008)

jonnyk said:


> Dudes, I have a question.
> In my room, 7.5 X 8 x8. I have this one 6 in. vent.
> And in my room I need to vent out the hoods, as well as the rooms air its self.
> Can I turn that one 6 in vent into two vents? One for the room and one for the hoods, all exiting into the same hole with one fan?? Mybae one 6 in , and one 8 in?
> ...


You would need to get a Y vent adapter.


----------



## LoudBlunts (May 13, 2008)

sean you swear by these fans aye?

im still faithful to my sunleaves windtunnel


but who knows i might have to try these fans in my cab. i got the windtunnels in my tent. its so quiet it kinda eerie


----------



## southfloridasean (May 13, 2008)

LoudBlunts said:


> sean you swear by these fans aye?
> 
> im still faithful to my sunleaves windtunnel
> 
> ...


 
I promise you man you wont regret it. Word to mother. By the way I saw your post from like last month on the adjust a wings. Im working on getting some more as we speak. Ill let you know when I get the word.


----------



## southfloridasean (May 13, 2008)

Or if I get any word.


----------



## LoudBlunts (May 13, 2008)

some site i seen had a package deal with lumateks and aaw


----------



## southfloridasean (May 13, 2008)

I know which site your talking about exactly too. Ive seen them plenty of times.


----------



## LoudBlunts (May 13, 2008)

i cant remember tho....pm me that url pls...

no rush...just when you get some time


----------



## southfloridasean (May 13, 2008)

igrowhydro.com :: Hydroponic Systems, Grow Lights, Advanced Nuturents & Green Air Products

I can get the adjust a wings way cheaper though. Trust me on that bee. Thats the link for the package.


----------



## LoudBlunts (May 13, 2008)

how much cheaper?


----------



## southfloridasean (May 13, 2008)

mediums (400-600 watt) $120 Large (1000 watt) $155


----------



## LoudBlunts (May 13, 2008)

damn is that price local? or can i get some of that.


thas actually not bad


----------



## southfloridasean (May 13, 2008)

You can son as I said Im just waiting to hear back from the peoples to see if I can get a set of 12. They come 12 to the box. I want three more of them shits & Im selling the rest. I want to hook up the cool tubes to them like AL B did.


----------



## genfranco (May 13, 2008)

Not to be an ass or anything... but i think that everyone that buys those bog ol things are fools unless your growing a room with LOOOONNNNGGGG duct work..

i only used these type of fans for my cab and i am using a 400 watt hps.... my temps are roughly about 3 or 4 higher inside under the lights than outside my cab.... well i had to use a few... but mine where not rated this high either... i used 4" square one..... 

6" Flat Whisper Fan - 230CFM

Hope this helps the guys running small operations.. 

oh yeah ...they are 19.99 ...lol


----------



## FullMetalJacket (May 13, 2008)

genfranco, what size/make/model are carbon filter are you pulling air through? And do you use them for a lighttube as well?

ty


----------



## LoudBlunts (May 13, 2008)

genfranco said:


> Not to be an ass or anything... but i think that everyone that buys those bog ol things are fools unless your growing a room with LOOOONNNNGGGG duct work..
> 
> i only used these type of fans for my cab and i am using a 400 watt hps.... my temps are roughly about 3 or 4 higher inside under the lights than outside my cab.... well i had to use a few... but mine where not rated this high either... i used 4" square one.....
> 
> ...


LOL good luck with those and a carbon filter!


----------



## genfranco (May 13, 2008)

its a diy carbon filter.. im not sure how well it will work although my ona bucket takes the smells out of my whole garage ...jesus thats powerful 

I used these carbon sheets







cut them to size of a 6 inch duct...theres like 4 to a pack.. then i took some of the wifey's stockings and made some carbon pouches..stuffed those in there as well.... i placed these sheets on both sides of the wifes stockings hehehe.. that way i wouldnt be eating carbon dust. I have 2 fans on this exhaust.... well 1 fan technically is drawing cold air in (dont ask i am a noob and didnt think thaT THE LIGHT DIDNT REALLY NEED FRESH AIR hehehhe... but anyway... there is one bringing air in at the entry of the cab and then one right after the light pulling hot air out the filter is after that on the end.... I stick my hand back there and there isnt tones of air coming through... but power off test have shown that it is doing wonders.... I ended up adding another fan sucking air out and into the vegging/ona filter exhaust that i have on top





.... Kinda built as i went .... but i figured it doesn't look to bad.. Not like FMJ's top notch shit right there... I mean i only spent 400 give or take 50 bucks..


----------



## genfranco (May 13, 2008)

LoudBlunts said:


> LOL good luck with those and a carbon filter!



Why is that... mine arent even those 200+cfm ... and its getting the air out... but thanks for the luck ... you too


----------



## LoudBlunts (May 13, 2008)

genfranco said:


> Why is that... mine arent even those 200+cfm ... and its getting the air out... but thanks for the luck ... you too



axials arent really strong enough to push through some filters..


----------



## smoketrichs (May 15, 2008)

Hey, Great thread. Heard about this fan on ICmag and got me interested. Just finished reading the thread and solidified my decision. Just ordered, a TD100 for my 3'X1.5'x3' NGB box and im gonna be using it to exhaust a 250w CMH (ceramic metal halide), hopefully it's up to the job.


----------



## FullMetalJacket (May 16, 2008)

Cool man. I have that td-100 in a similar size/wattage. It is in my veg/mother chamber pulling through a can carbon filter 2900 that causes .20 static pressure. Running 270 watts of T5 and about 100 of CFLs. The fan works great, i leave it on full blast the entire time because the thing is very near silent so i would waste the 20 bucs on a speed controller. Keeps my temp at about 75 with an ambient room temp of 70-71.

You should be staright. Good choice..


----------



## upinchronic1 (May 16, 2008)

Did you read my 'do you want to trade' post?




FullMetalJacket said:


> Cool man. I have that td-100 in a similar size/wattage. It is in my veg/mother chamber pulling through a can carbon filter 2900 that causes .20 static pressure. Running 270 watts of T5 and about 100 of CFLs. The fan works great, i leave it on full blast the entire time because the thing is very near silent. Keeps my temp at about 75 with an ambient room temp of 70-71.
> 
> You should be staright. Good choice..


----------



## FullMetalJacket (May 16, 2008)

upinchronic1 said:


> Did you read my 'do you want to trade' post?


Yea didnt really uderstand..what kind of trade?


----------



## upinchronic1 (May 16, 2008)

Oh, maby i didnt explain. I have to down grade from 400w on acount of stealth issues, the S&P not working well with dimmers and all. The td-200x for your td 100, Hell of a good deal for you. I just done want to go through the hassel of selling it then buying another one. ? Got pics...


----------



## Mindmelted (May 16, 2008)

I just got my s&p td-100x and it is all right.Only makes a 1 degree diffrence than the 3 coaxial fans i was using.Louder than most people are admitting too,very quiet on low setting,but that does me no good.I am only exhausting a 12 cubic foot box and can only get the temp around 79 with light on.Using a 175 watt mh and room temp is 75.But overall not a bad fan,just not as good as desribed.


----------



## upinchronic1 (May 16, 2008)

Whered he go?

Mind, id recomend insulating it if you really need the stealth, rap some carpet around it or something, it will do wonders..


----------



## OneCanSam (May 16, 2008)

upinchronic1 said:


> any idea of the sones or dba?, how quiet?


I've had my eye on these for awhile, I like the modular design and easy of use and maintanence, but I refuse to buy any fan that doesn't list the dba. Personally, I don't buy any fan that doesn't list the exact specs, especially listing the sone or dba 

On page 11 of their extended PDF for the TD series, it says this:

_*Fan sound levels are measured in sones. At this time there are no sone level test standards available through HVI due to the*_
_*fact that remote mounted fan noise levels are in proportion to the following: type of duct, length of duct, fan distance from the*_
_*intake source and other miscellaneous factors. However, it is generally accepted that remote mounted venting is usually quieter*_​
_*than standard (in room) venting.*_

Thats enough info for me to not buy one.


----------



## FullMetalJacket (May 16, 2008)

So you are clearing the air every six seconds with that fan.. That being said the lack of air exchange is not the issue unless your intakes are not optimized. Temp difference of 4 deg isnt that bad over ambient..with a box that small it is sort of hard to really completely isolate the outake air from the intake which may be worth a degree or two. Is the light/bulb in the direct path of the air being pulled out?

The td-100 is quieter than the 100x and alot smaller...where are you getting noise from, the fan itsself or the air movement?


----------



## FullMetalJacket (May 16, 2008)

OneCanSam said:


> I've had my eye on these for awhile, I like the modular design and easy of use and maintanence, but I refuse to buy any fan that doesn't list the dba. Personally, I don't buy any fan that doesn't list the exact specs, especially listing the sone or dba
> 
> On page 11 of their extended PDF for the TD series, it says this:
> 
> ...


I mean i can definitely hear my cabinet. With the doors shut and the fatmat, i cant hear the fan at least over the air movement. When you move this much air it is always going to be harder silencing that over the fans... I dont have a sone or dba meter but have a panasonic whisper and td series is noticebly quieter than it. I was surprised to that they dont list them as it would be a major selling point, definitely dont think they are hiding something though...

Anyone out there gots a sone/dba meter with one of these fans?


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## Mindmelted (May 16, 2008)

fullmetaljacket
The vent is to the side,should i make the vent right behind the light.And what can i do to optimize my intakes.I have 3 dark room breathers on the back of box,and 4 21/2 inch intakes and 4 11/2 inch intakes on the bottomof box with pvc elbows as a light trap maze.And i have a 30 in room fan blowing cool air towards the box.Any suggestions would help.


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## Mindmelted (May 16, 2008)

full metal
I think a little of both.My duct run is only 6 feet.


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## FullMetalJacket (May 16, 2008)

Mindmelted said:


> fullmetaljacket
> The vent is to the side,should i make the vent right behind the light.And what can i do to optimize my intakes.I have 3 dark room breathers on the back of box,and 4 21/2 inch intakes and 4 11/2 inch intakes on the bottomof box with pvc elbows as a light trap maze.And i have a 30 in room fan blowing cool air towards the box.Any suggestions would help.


Wow that a good deal of intakes like 30sq inches if my math is right so comparable to like a single 6" intake... Plus your dark room intakes. That being said it sounds like you are successfully displacing the air as opposed to dispersing the intake air..which is good. Maybe some added static pressure with those small diameters and the 90's but i would think that fan would still be more than ok. Why so may intakes? I would think the dark room vents alone would be enough. I would love a oic of the box...I would try to have the exhaust as close to the bulb as possible and have the intakes as much at the opposite side of the exhaust as possible. Like i said before though 4 degrees over ambient isnt too shabby. I would think taking the room a few degrees lower would give you the best impact on temps.

And 6 feet of 4" duct? Not real sure on what that would do to static pressure wise but im thinking that is ok too.. Do you feel a good deal of air coming out the exhaust?


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## Mindmelted (May 16, 2008)

fullmetaljacket
All the intakes are from using coaxial fans,and being my first try at it.The dark room breathers are a 4 inch hole you cut,but the actually hole for air flow is only about 2 inches.Thanks for your input,i will design a new back panel and try that.Want to get things right before i start my auto hindu-kush.Will try and post a picture of my box.It not the best,but for my first try not to bad i think.It is mostly for clones to grow short.I have a white rhino mom,a thc bomb mom and aurora indica mom for my clone supply.


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## Mindmelted (May 16, 2008)

fullmetaljacket
Actually a good amount of air that does not feel that warm.


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## FullMetalJacket (May 16, 2008)

well its only 4 degrees above ambient so it wont feel that warm.. Looks like your best bet is to lower ambient or plave the cab in a coller place man...

79 max though is actaully a good temp man ..any reason why you want tto lower it more? Weed tends to have a habit of growing like weeds and are pretty hearty... People in these forums are obsessed..myself included and this obession can kind of imply that marijuana is really sensitive. Based on you collection of mothers you probably already know this though..this for those newbs that don't.

I am by no means an expert so i would get other opinions. This thread is probably not the best place, create your own and people will help you out that know more than myself...


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## Mindmelted (May 16, 2008)

_FullMetalJacket_
_Thanks,that makes me fell better.and the obsession with lower temp,is that i keep reading you want it around 75.I really do not think i can obtain that temp,without lowering the ac to around 70 and then the power bill skyrockets.Thanks again for your help and time.Keep it real bro._


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## Mindmelted (May 17, 2008)

First try grow box and grow.
2 weeks old now,i think they are doing allright.


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## Mindmelted (May 23, 2008)

My test run is complete,and ready to start 10 auto hindu-kush for my first real grow.
Will post some pictures when they get going.


Everything i say is BS!!!


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## AmaBotan (May 23, 2008)

how much cfm would i need for a grow box 3'x3'4' using 400w hps lights/400w mh lights. i was thinking of getting the td-125 which has around 200 cfm. would that be sufficient enought to ventilate and keep my box in optimal temperatures?


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## FullMetalJacket (May 24, 2008)

Yes you would have enough cfm to potentially clear the air every about 10 seconds. Depends on many factors though, like vent runs, carbon scrubbers, light tubes, ambient, etc though to get a more accurate idea.

I think that fan though would give you alot of flexiblity for that size box.


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## Mindmelted (May 24, 2008)

Hey fullmetal thanks for all your input.The pics of my box are a few posts up.Check it out.


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## FullMetalJacket (May 24, 2008)

Box looks sweet Mindmelted, should start a grow jounel w/ some details on the cab..


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## Mindmelted (May 24, 2008)

Going to try and start one this week.Have a graet and high weekend fullmetaljacket


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## GanjaGoon (May 30, 2008)

I'm going to be growing in a plastic storage cabinet measuring 25" W 15" D 58"H, with a 150w hps. The cabinet will be inside my closet (with sliding doors). I need to keep this reallly stealthy, with little to no sound and no odor. I'm thinking about getting the TD-100x fan and pairing it with this Dutch Breeze carbon filter - Dutch Breeze Carbon Air Filter - DFS2 | Air Cleaners/Odor Control - any verdict about whether these fans are acceptable for use with carbon scrubbers? There seems to have been some debate about this. If I combine this setup with insulated ducting will I be able to a) Keep my cabinet cool enough and b) have near silent operation with the closet doors closed?


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## FullMetalJacket (May 30, 2008)

GanjaGoon said:


> I'm going to be growing in a plastic storage cabinet measuring 25" W 15" D 58"H, with a 150w hps. The cabinet will be inside my closet (with sliding doors). I need to keep this reallly stealthy, with little to no sound and no odor. I'm thinking about getting the TD-100x fan and pairing it with this Dutch Breeze carbon filter - Dutch Breeze Carbon Air Filter - DFS2 | Air Cleaners/Odor Control - any verdict about whether these fans are acceptable for use with carbon scrubbers? There seems to have been some debate about this. If I combine this setup with insulated ducting will I be able to a) Keep my cabinet cool enough and b) have near silent operation with the closet doors closed?


 
I have no experience with those filters. For their size the cfm range seems really high. I have the same size filter (can filter 2900) and run the td-100. I am only getting about 50 cfm out of it on max though. I knew before hand this would be the case due to the PDF. I knew the filter created .20 SP and and from the pdf knew the td-100 was rated at 50 cfm at .20 SP.

Unfortunately i cannot find the SP or Pressure Drop created by the filter you linked to. Being that the cfm range is so much higher i would imagine it creates more SP. 

Do i think the 100x will work, yes but you may only get 50cfm out of it.
The 125 is actually smaller tahn the 100 and pushed more cfm.
The 150 is a little larger and pushed alot more cfm.

Personally if you are determinied on that filter i would get the 150 and a 6" to 4" duct reducer. I would also hook it up to a speed controller so you can dial it down for extra stealth. But thats just me. These definitely work for carbon filters whoever said they don't is an ass. The numbers dont lie. Now what they may have "meant" is that the centrifgal or other model of fans are better because they loose less cfm when x amount of SP is applied. Well this may be true this does not mean these fans do not work as well. I just means you must compensate for their SP loss based on their size. The PDF makes this very easy.

Good luck


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## LoudBlunts (May 30, 2008)

Mindmelted said:


> First try grow box and grow.
> 2 weeks old now,i think they are doing allright.



nice box!!! i saw one of those and thought nice box! i think imma get one and use i for a bud dryer!


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## GanjaGoon (May 30, 2008)

Great info, thank you so much. I'm definitely not set on that filter, I just picked it because I thought it matched up with the CFM of the TD-100x, whereas the other filters I was looking at rated much higher CFM. But I wasn't taking into account the SP. I would rather stick with the TD-100 because I assume it would be softer than the higher cfm models. If you're getting good results from the TD-100 with the can 2900 then I will definitely consider getting that. Do you have any links to the can 2900? I can find the 2600 but haven't been able to find the 2900 yet.


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## Mindmelted (May 30, 2008)

LoudBlunts

Thanks!Got the box at sears.Using a 175w mh for veg and a 150 hps for flowering.Got a s&p td-100x for exhaust and passive intakes.Just started a auto hindu-kush run.


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## GanjaGoon (May 31, 2008)

So any idea whether that TD-100 will work well with a can 2600 filter? I can't find the 2900 anywhere. The 2600 says the pressure drop at max cfm is: 180pa/. 75wg . Not sure how to read those numbers.


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## FullMetalJacket (May 31, 2008)

GanjaGoon said:


> So any idea whether that TD-100 will work well with a can 2600 filter? I can't find the 2900 anywhere. The 2600 says the pressure drop at max cfm is: 180pa/. 75wg . Not sure how to read those numbers.


Yea sorry, i meant the 2600. I use the td-100 with the 2600 and it works great. Mind you the fan filter together are move about 50 cfm. And the pressure drop is .20 according to the can filter website not .75. Any filter with a .75 pressure drop will not work with this fan. If you look at the PDF i think the max pressure drop this fan is rated for is .40.

With you 10 cubic feet cabinet and 150 hps, this combo would do the job nicely. I use it in 48 sq ft flower/veg and am running a 270 t5 and it keeps my temps 2-3 above abmient with a 6 inch passive intake. My 270W T5 and 4 cfls probably puts out as much heat or more heat as your 150 hps.


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## GanjaGoon (May 31, 2008)

Ok awesome. 50 cfm is fine with me as long as it's enough to keep my box cool - the box is 25" W 15" D 58"H with a vented 150w hps, do you think that will be enough? The specs on the 2600 say the max CFM is 94, but 50 is still alright? I guess it's mostly important not to go over the max because then the filter will be ineffective, but if you're under the max by a bit it is ok?


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## FullMetalJacket (May 31, 2008)

I edited my comment above.... but yes sir

Yes i saw that it was rated in the 90's on some sites so is the 9000. Not on the can fan webiste though and i trust their numbers more. It actually says 42cfm on the can filter website...i rounded.

Specifications
Max cfm: 42/71m³h
@ 0.1 sec contact time
Prefilter: Yes
Mounting: Bayonet
Flange: 4"/5" Dimensions: (with pre-filter) 
·Outside Diameter: *140mm/5.5"* 
·Height: *453mm/18"*
·Total Weight: *4.5kg/9lbs.*
·Carbon Weight: *2.1kg/4.63lbs* 
Pressure drop at max cfm: 42pa/ .20wg


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## GanjaGoon (May 31, 2008)

Hmm I wonder if the other sites list it at 94 because they assume that people won't take the SP drop into account. I certainly wouldn't have before you explained it to me. Well, anyway, sounds like the TD-100 and can 2600 are perfect for my setup. Thanks for your help.


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## upinchronic1 (Jun 2, 2008)

Any one want this product? I have the TDX 200. Rated for 500 cfm. Brand new, only use was testing. I downgraded to pc fans due to stealth reasons. Anyon intrested hit me up with a PM! it yours for 120, shipping and all straight up.


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## GardensGrow (Jun 3, 2008)

Hello,

Seems to me like the TD-100 and Can 2600 combo will work great for me. Anyone know a website where they sell both of these items (or the TD-100 and equivalent filter)? It would be nice to save on shipping by purchasing from one store. Thanks all.

~GG


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## MonkeeMan (Jun 3, 2008)

whats a can 2600?


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## GardensGrow (Jun 3, 2008)

It's a Can-Filter brand carbon scrubber with model number 2600


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## ClosetGrower388 (Jun 4, 2008)

HELP! What should I do?
I've got a closet - 10 X 2 X 8 - split by black visqueen. 
The flowering area is about 2 X 4.5 X 8.

The grow area has 3 4'X2 FL lights.
The flowering area has 1 400W HPS

I bought 2 TD 125 fans.
I thought about putting one into the block wall, low as a fresh air intake in the flowering side, and using the other one to vent through the roof for both sides using a split V duct or something.

I need to keep the heat from the HPS down and not sure how hard that will be. I tried a bathroom exhaust fan and it moves the air in less than 5 minutes but no way it keeps the temp below 90º F.

I thought maybe I could just cut intake vents (not fans) into the wall and use both fans for exhaust through the ceiling.

What would be the most efficient use for the 2 fans (again, keeping in mind that heat is a factor)??


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## genfranco (Jun 4, 2008)

you might try and just stick the fan very close to the light opening and have the sucking side open..instead of attached to a filter.... the smell you can take away with ONA buckets.... build your own carbon scrubber using carbon sheets from walmart Stick them inside the duct...youll find them next to the heppa vac filters and such.... I have had 0 smell problems using this combo... good luck


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## genfranco (Jun 4, 2008)

ClosetGrower388 said:


> HELP! What should I do?
> 
> 
> I need to keep the heat from the HPS down and not sure how hard that will be. I tried a bathroom exhaust fan and it moves the air in less than 5 minutes but no way it keeps the temp below 90º F.
> ...


Also keep in mind that the heat from the light is going to be as powerful with a fan or not.. initial flash heat you know.... the heat you feel when you put your hand there so .... in order to make it more cumfy for your plants... make sure you have your air directed towards the exit... and that you have a fan or 2... blowing across the tops all the time.. (well at least when the HPS is on)....temperature heat is hard to tell under the light as most temp gauges dont work well around that Light heat.. make a little box for the sensore (if you bought those cheap ones that come with an outside sensor on a wire)... good luck and just think efficiently... 1 500 cfm should be fine to get the light air out and suck alot of air out... get muffin fans or those duct fans for the bottom to draw air in....(cut some intakes if you dont have them)... In my cab i have 2 intakes on the bottom and then little 5 dollar fans on top for the DWC bucket right under the plants pointing up.... (freash air comes in...then gets pushed up through the plants ...no bud rot please...)... I even added another fan sucking hot air right under the light... check it out ... got tones of pics. good luck


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## ClosetGrower388 (Jun 5, 2008)

Thanks genfranco. That grow journal is great. Man I was really sorry to read about the root rot!
Glad you caught it in time.


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## genfranco (Jun 5, 2008)

No i know man.. it kills me... Im going to go ahead and let them finish up..2 or 3 weeks left i guess... its da purps so i dont know how its supposed to look....so ill let them fatten up for the next 3 weeks....then i can switch it up to hempy buckets on the next grow. Im still wondering what would be the best reusable medium for those buckets...can wait till my seeds from mandala get here... oh yeah!...


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## El Americano (Jun 6, 2008)

In the process of setting up a 6x5x7 hut and was wondering if:

a) the 200x would be an overkill to use as exhaust

b) if I can have only an exhaust and use fans on the inside of the hut


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## genfranco (Jun 6, 2008)

Get those 30$ duct round fans for the intakes man... they fit perfect in the duct holes (duh)...hehehe


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## PurfectStorm (Jun 6, 2008)

Just wanted to let people know that were gonna do the combination, I do not recommend the TD-100x and a Can 2900. It doesnt have near the suction power to pull through a carbon filter, I will probably be upgrading to a 200 for it in the near future. And using the 100x as an intake.


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## rictor (Jun 6, 2008)

ClosetGrower388 said:


> HELP! What should I do?
> I've got a closet - 10 X 2 X 8 - split by black visqueen.
> The flowering area is about 2 X 4.5 X 8.
> 
> ...


homemade cool toob


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## FullMetalJacket (Jun 7, 2008)

PurfectStorm said:


> Just wanted to let people know that were gonna do the combination, I do not recommend the TD-100x and a Can 2900. It doesnt have near the suction power to pull through a carbon filter, I will probably be upgrading to a 200 for it in the near future. And using the 100x as an intake.


 
Mine pulls just fine and i use the 100 with the same filter. My intake dampers fly open when it kicks on. Remeber you only want to pull 50 cfm through the filter at most.


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## Mindmelted (Jun 7, 2008)

PurfectStorm said:


> Just wanted to let people know that were gonna do the combination, I do not recommend the TD-100x and a Can 2900. It doesnt have near the suction power to pull through a carbon filter, I will probably be upgrading to a 200 for it in the near future. And using the 100x as an intake.


I would not agrre with this statement.I have a TD-100X and it is more than powerful enough to use with a carbon filter.


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## LoudBlunts (Jun 7, 2008)

mindmelted....you never told me if you think thas a good or bad idea for bud dryer....what you thinkin?


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## Mindmelted (Jun 7, 2008)

LoudBlunts said:


> mindmelted....you never told me if you think thas a good or bad idea for bud dryer....what you thinkin?


I think that it would work well as a bud dryer


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## LoudBlunts (Jun 7, 2008)

i think i seen em at walmart or targets


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## Mindmelted (Jun 7, 2008)

I got mine at sears


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## Mindmelted (Jun 7, 2008)

The back panel sucks though.I did not use it,and just cut a board to fit th back.


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## LoudBlunts (Jun 7, 2008)

how much?????


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## LoudBlunts (Jun 7, 2008)

what is the back panel? that particle board type shit?


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## Mindmelted (Jun 7, 2008)

Around a $100,and the back panel was that really thin cardboard like material that they use for the back of bookcases.


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## na5342 (Aug 10, 2008)

edcocks said:


> Just got mine today and installed it as the sole exhaust fan on my dresser sized cabinet(150 watt HPS and four 24" T5's). I got the smallest version TD-100 with the 4 inch inlet. Claimed 103 CFM. Keeps my temps perfect and makes very little noise. This was my third try to get an effective ultrastealthy fan and I finally got it right. The crappy Suncourt 6 inch fan moved air, but was noisy as hell. The Suncourt 4 inch did not move any air and was also noisy. I'm so happy to have found this type of duct fan. I recommend it highly to stealth cabinet growers. I paid $72 which includes shipping.



Can I ask what kind of odor control you have it hooked up to? What would be a good carbon filter pair for this fan? I have a 20" X 36" X 64" tent. 

Thanks!


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## calicat (Aug 10, 2008)

You can purchase fans at major hardware stores in the plumbing section that push 235 cfm and the price is 60 dollars. But I still love my hurricane centrifugal fan


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## FullMetalJacket (Aug 10, 2008)

na5342 said:


> Can I ask what kind of odor control you have it hooked up to? What would be a good carbon filter pair for this fan? I have a 20" X 36" X 64" tent.
> 
> Thanks!


I would go with the larger one if i were you.

The td-100 only is good for 50 cfm at .20 SP. I use it with a can 2600. That being said if you want to move more than 50 cfm you need a bigger fan.

I would get the td-125 or td-150 if i were you w/ a can 33 or comparable filter. The fans are only like $40 more and are just as quiet.


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## na5342 (Aug 10, 2008)

FullMetalJacket said:


> I would go with the larger one if i were you.
> 
> The td-100 only is good for 50 cfm at .20 SP. I use it with a can 2600. That being said if you want to move more than 50 cfm you need a bigger fan.
> 
> I would get the td-125 or td-150 if i were you w/ a can 33 or comparable filter. The fans are only like $40 more and are just as quiet.



Great, Thanks!


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## corral hollow kid (Aug 14, 2008)

Sweet!!! I'm gonna pickup one of those for my light / hood cooler!!!


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## -=4:20=-Guy (Aug 14, 2008)

ROFLOL... 

Sorry had to comment on the first posts lack of description... 

You Pot Head


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## old yeller (Nov 2, 2008)

S&P TD-150 with 36" DIY muffler running at 300cfm - exhausting a Sunhut XL with 600W HPS & 4x4 T5 using a Carbonaire 4" filter - Perfect!


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## apasunee (Nov 2, 2008)

Nice setup........................................


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## specialkayme (Nov 2, 2008)

old yeller said:


> S&P TD-150 with 36" DIY muffler running at 300cfm - exhausting a Sunhut XL with 600W HPS & 4x4 T5 using a Carbonaire 4" filter - Perfect!


Where did you get the specs for the home made muffler, if you don't mind me asking.


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## Therellas (Nov 2, 2008)

they look nice.the cleaning feature is pretty high speed.


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## old yeller (Nov 3, 2008)

skm - The DIY muffler i made was based on the fact that most 6" commercial mufflers were 24" & i had some 36" x 1/2" welded hardware cloth from HD that i used instead. Figured that longer was better. I just made a 6" roll of it & inserted it into a piece of 8" galvanized duct that i cut to fit when i took into consideration the 2, 8"x6" reducers i needed at both ends - i think i cut the 8" duct to 30". Stuffed it with 2 bags of poly fill they use for pillows and it cut the sound down by at least 50%. It cost me about $40 to make where the store bought ones were going for $80+.
I didn't take construction pics cause i kept cutting my hands up on that g.d.'ed galvanized ducting & getting blood all over everything - didn't want to mess up my new Canon G10 camera (the best p&s ever made).


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## specialkayme (Nov 3, 2008)

your construction makes perfect sense. I already have most of those things lying around, so maybe I'll try making one some time.

I've just never seen a muffler in person, so I didn't know what the inside looked like.


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## Hotwired (Nov 6, 2008)

I've looked everywhere for these fans and maybe 2 companies sell them. 

This can't be too good. If the fans were good they'd be selling like hotcakes and more companies would be selling them.

What's up with these things?


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## specialkayme (Nov 7, 2008)

Hotwired said:


> I've looked everywhere for these fans and maybe 2 companies sell them.
> 
> This can't be too good. If the fans were good they'd be selling like hotcakes and more companies would be selling them.
> 
> What's up with these things?


Your logic is kinda flawed. There are a number of reasons why most companies don't sell them. For one, perhaps S&P doesn't offer a contract with most companies, and prefers to sell them direct. Apple computers did, and to some degree still does this exact strategy. It means a larger profit margin for them. It wasn't until recently that apples were even sold in best buy.

Another reason is perhaps most of these companies don't know about S&P fans. I know my local hydroponic shop doesn't spend hours upon hours researching different fans and bulbs to use, they usually just get what people request, or what is advertised or sold to them. If an S&P rep isn't calling up all the local home depots to sell them their fans, then HD won't sell them.

Another very possible reason why stores don't sell them is that they don't have a good mark up value, or profit margin. If a shop can sell you a shitty duct fan for $20, and make $10 out of it, that's awesome. If it can sell you a Vortex for $150 and make $40, even better. Perhaps the mark up on an S&P is only like $10-15. What is the benefit that the store has of stocking up on them, when it can make so much more comparativly out of the shitty duct fans and the vortex fans.

Your conclusion that the fans must be crappy because in a capitalist market the invisible hand hasn't stocked these fans is somewhat flawed. There is a number of reasons why they arn't stocked in stores, and why people don't have them in their homes. 

I have one, and I love it. Much quieter than my vortex, uses less space, and is much more adapt to overcome resistances. But if you don't want to believe what everyone else is saying, then go to HD with the specs of the fans and ask what they think.


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## mane2008 (Nov 7, 2008)

They actually don't push more air than vortex at all, vortex blows them out the water.
Look at the cfm and free air ratings.


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## specialkayme (Nov 7, 2008)

mane2008 said:


> They actually don't push more air than vortex at all, vortex blows them out the water.
> Look at the cfm and free air ratings.


If straight up CFM is your main concern, you are 100% correct, the Vortex blows S&P out of the water. But my main concern is not CFM, but quality, maintenance, construction materials, and sound. 

I have a TD-125 Mixvent fan and a 6" Vortex. While the vortex moves a mass amount of air, it's metal housing unit resonates alot of noise. It's big, it's bulky, it's heavy, and it doesn't have the ability to overcome obstructions in the ventilation the way that the Mixvent fans can. S&P fans, however, are super easy to install, clean, reverse the direction of the air flow (if you want to, I personally don't), and their plastic materials makes them operate at a much quieter level. 

I know that the Vortex is rated at 49 dBa (6" one), but I can't find the noise information on the S&P's, anyone have these? I know it's quieter, but how much I'm not sure.


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## Hotwired (Nov 7, 2008)

specialkayme said:


> I have one, and I love it. Much quieter than my vortex, uses less space, and is much more adapt to overcome resistances.


Ahh, I see.



mane2008 said:


> They actually don't push more air than vortex at all, vortex blows them out the water.
> Look at the cfm and free air ratings.


Ok, I see what you mean. So they are quiet but don't have the pull that a vortex does if I get what both of you said. 

So why not use a Whisperline? So far one guy has compared the 2 fans and said the S&P is quieter. I have the 240 cfm 6" Whisperline and I run it 24/7. Quiet as hell. 

I looked at the specs for both the 8" Whisperline and the 8" S&P. They pull about the same amount on the wg chart and lose torque at the same rate. The Whisperline is rated at 2.1 sones but is a whopping 26 pounds!

The 8" S&P is only 8.8 pounds and can fit almost anywhere. I'm wondering how loud it is compared to the Whisperline. If it's anything close in sound value I would probably choose this fan over the Whisperline because of usability.

I may order one of each because I need 2 fans anyway. One for my can 33 and one for my lights. Maybe I'll do a write-up on em after I'm done.


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## specialkayme (Nov 7, 2008)

Hotwired said:


> Ahh, I see.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Do you have a link? I'm interested in what you are talking about. I don't think I've seen these in person.

I've always wondered about the Sunleaves fans. I've heard they are super quiet (in comparison) and still move quite a bit of air. Anyone try these?


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## Hotwired (Nov 7, 2008)

http://www.ntsupply.com/files/products/FV-40NLF1_Spec.pdf

This is the link to the spec sheet for the Whipserline 8" fan.


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## specialkayme (Nov 7, 2008)

Hotwired said:


> http://www.ntsupply.com/files/products/FV-40NLF1_Spec.pdf
> 
> This is the link to the spec sheet for the Whipserline 8" fan.


Wow, those things are monsters! I just don't have that much room in my cab, regardless of how quiet they are.


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## mane2008 (Nov 7, 2008)

specialkayme said:


> If straight up CFM is your main concern, you are 100% correct, the Vortex blows S&P out of the water. But my main concern is not CFM, but quality, maintenance, construction materials, and sound.
> 
> I have a TD-125 Mixvent fan and a 6" Vortex. While the vortex moves a mass amount of air, it's metal housing unit resonates alot of noise. It's big, it's bulky, it's heavy, and it doesn't have the ability to overcome obstructions in the ventilation the way that the Mixvent fans can. S&P fans, however, are super easy to install, clean, reverse the direction of the air flow (if you want to, I personally don't), and their plastic materials makes them operate at a much quieter level.
> 
> I know that the Vortex is rated at 49 dBa (6" one), but I can't find the noise information on the S&P's, anyone have these? I know it's quieter, but how much I'm not sure.


yea my vortex is a lil loud but not compared to equal powered fans.
I think vortex has great construction, they have a 10yr warranty and they are cheap if you know where to go.


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## specialkayme (Nov 7, 2008)

mane2008 said:


> yea my vortex is a lil loud but not compared to equal powered fans.
> I think vortex has great construction, they have a 10yr warranty and they are cheap if you know where to go.


True, I just can't deal with the noise. Stealth is an issue for me, so a buzzing, loud, vibrating fan is a big no no.


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## Hotwired (Nov 7, 2008)

specialkayme said:


> True, I just can't deal with the noise. Stealth is an issue for me, so a buzzing, loud, vibrating fan is a big no no.


 
The 6" Whisperline pulls 240 cfm at 0 sp and is rated at 1.4 sones for noise level.

http://www.ntsupply.com/files/products/FV-20NLF1_Spec.pdf

It can pull up to 143 cfm @ .6 sp and it dies off from there. I think .6 sp would equate to about 3 turns in 6" ducting. Mine is hooked up above the tent and pulls thru a reflector. I pull at least 200 cfm with it and I can sleep 10 feet away and not hear a thing.

On the other hand my 8" vortex is pulling thru lights and a can 33 with ease but it's very loud. I may switch to 2 S&P's to do the same job if they are a lot quieter.

We need a comparison test between the Whisperline and S&P for noise levels.


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## specialkayme (Nov 7, 2008)

Hotwired said:


> We need a comparison test between the Whisperline and S&P for noise levels.


I totally agree. If only the Whisperline fans wern't so gigantic.


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## FlyinLow&High (Nov 10, 2008)

I saw this post and I got the TD 150 for my 6 x 6 x 8, and wanted some suggestitons for a charcoal filter setup for odor control with this inline fan. I was thinking of getting the Can 33 with 200cfm Charcoal filter with 6" flange mounting it to the ceiling of my room, its attached to an 6" 90 degree elbow then hook up the my TD 150 inline running 6" duct to my home Exhaust that goes up and out the roof. I was also looking at the Can 55, but weighs 55 lbs. 



You guys that have put these TD inline series in place, does this sound correct, and thanks for your time.


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## Proph (Nov 10, 2008)

Saw these fans on ICMAG a while back, they had a huge discussion board talking about the specs, quietness ect ect. Sec ill find it so people can look around and see what people said.

International Cannagraphic Magazine Forums - Quietest 100-150 CFM 4" Exhaust Fan? Elicent Inline or Dayton/ActiveAir Blower?


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## specialkayme (Nov 10, 2008)

Proph said:


> Saw these fans on ICMAG a while back, they had a huge discussion board talking about the specs, quietness ect ect. Sec ill find it so people can look around and see what people said.
> 
> International Cannagraphic Magazine Forums - Quietest 100-150 CFM 4" Exhaust Fan? Elicent Inline or Dayton/ActiveAir Blower?


Just read through that thread, and it had several pieces of conflicting information. According to this website: Untitled it has listed the sound ratings of three of the fans. But the three that it lists (the 160, 250, and 350) arn't available for sale on any website that I have found. And the dimensions don't match up to any of the ones in the S&P extended catalog, so it's not like they are just labeled something different. 

But if we were to assume that it is roughly correct, and the noise levels were between 14 and 25 db, that would put it at roughly between 0.2 and 0.4 sones (I think). And according to this website: Shuttle Europe - Know-how: dB and Sone would put it somewhere between a "rustling leaf" and "Quiet bedroom at night".

That, of course, doesn't solve the one issue that the S&P fans have, or really that ANY of the exhaust fans have, including the wisperline: that horrible rushing air sound.

That's what I've been working on overcoming in my new cab. Still can't get it down just right. And I don't have the space for a duct muffler.

Anyway, did we ever decide what type of speed controller works on Mixvent Fans without making that buzzing sound? Does the speedster work, or no?


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## specialkayme (Nov 10, 2008)

After a quick search of this thread, I found out that the Speedster does work, but you can only crank it down like 1/4 of the way before the humming starts.

Anyone know of a speed controller that doesn't create this humming?


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## SOG (Nov 17, 2008)

can someone help me out 
how who'd i go about setting these bad boys in a 9x9x7 with 2x1000HPS


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## genfranco (Nov 17, 2008)

SOG said:


> can someone help me out
> how who'd i go about setting these bad boys in a 9x9x7 with 2x1000HPS


well 9 x 9 ... I would put one at 3 feet from wall ...then the other at 3 feet away from it ...youll have nice buds man...


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## SOG (Nov 17, 2008)

genfranco said:


> well 9 x 9 ... I would put one at 3 feet from wall ...then the other at 3 feet away from it ...youll have nice buds man...


Thank you Franco


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## SOG (Nov 25, 2008)

had any one used these in a larger setup then a closet, or the larger diameters?

I'm considering using 2 TD-200x to cool my 4 x 1000w 8" sun tubes 
and one TD-250 with 10" 5 bulb Big Blue ionizer to exhaust a 10ftx10ftx7ft room
i was going to go with the Vortex in similar diameters before i saw this thread
any comments, recommendations... anyone?


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## JordanTheGreat (Dec 22, 2008)

so are these quieter than a windtunnel fan?


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## mdgcmd (Dec 23, 2008)

My vortex is pretty freaking quite. TBH I cannot even hear the fan because the whooshing air is so loud. I have been wanting one of these for a long time (sense I read up on them). The thing is I already have a 4" Vortex and it pushes 170CFM and like I said I hear the air much louder than the fan, that being said will the air from these be any quite. Possible just a little bit because the 4" model I would is like 35cfm less so moves less air.


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## JordanTheGreat (Dec 23, 2008)

i got a vortex with a phat filter right now and it sounds like there is a leer jet in the tent in my room...


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## jnuggs (Dec 23, 2008)

I purchased the 4" 100 and was pleased with the air movement and quietness of the unit. So I purchased the 200 but I can't seem to wire it! I don't understand the thing. If anyone has the 200, not the 200x and has successfully wired it, please please help! Thank you!


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## Hotwired (Dec 23, 2008)

jnuggs said:


> I purchased the 4" 100 and was pleased with the air movement and quietness of the unit. So I purchased the 200 but I can't seem to wire it! I don't understand the thing. If anyone has the 200, not the 200x and has successfully wired it, please please help! Thank you!


rofl 

I have the 200x. This is from the install pdf file:

http://www.hvacquick.com/catalog_files/solerpalau_TD_IOM.pdf?PHPSESSID=nm8ig6hvb9gfmkchs718ldkc31

Models TD 100, 100x, 125, 150 & 200x are double insulated and are not provided with external ground wire.

My 200x doesn't have the green (ground) wire shown in the diagram but yours should. I'm not sure what the wiring looks like on yours but I'm pretty sure it's going to have the correct wires as shown in the diagram on the pdf file.

So you should have 4 wires coming out of the motor housing. Black (hi-speed), brown (lo-speed), yellow/green (ground) and white (common). My 200x has 2 extra wires coming out of the motor which connect to a large ass capacitor which sits in the housing. I don't have the ground wire on mine because they are double insulated as stated above.

These wires should be plugged into a small plastic holder with tiny screws to hold the wires in place. You need to get a grounded computer power cord or something like it. They sell them at Home Depot with the one end already cut off and the wires bare....I forgot the name of them. I like them cause they are fat and wont be a fire hazzard.

Once you get the cord just match the wire colors.............basically. I hope you have basic electrical wiring skills. White goes to white.....green goes to yellow/green, and the black wire on your new cord will go to either the black or brown wire for the motor speed.

Always use proper gauge cords for your amp usage.


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## jnuggs (Dec 23, 2008)

Here are a few pics of mine. I have the capacitor too. I have no green/yellow wire! I have basic wiring skills. I wired the S&P 100 just fine. I tried wiring white to white, black to black, and white to white black to brown..leaving the ground on my computer cord dangling.


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## OregonMeds (Dec 23, 2008)

I can vouch for these too, they're the dogs bollocks.


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## Hotwired (Dec 25, 2008)

jnuggs said:


> Here are a few pics of mine. I have the capacitor too. I have no green/yellow wire! I have basic wiring skills. I wired the S&P 100 just fine. I tried wiring white to white, black to black, and white to white black to brown..leaving the ground on my computer cord dangling.


This may sound dumb but how did you wire it? Also, take a look at the motor once more. There should be a sticker on it saying if it is the 200 or 200x. Sometimes people play games with you. My 200x came in a metal casing which is supposed to be the 200 but the motor itself has the plastic casing and says "TYPE - TD200x". I'm sending mine back because the fucker is WAYYYY too powerful. Much more so than they say it is.

Either way, the wiring in your pic shows that you don't have the ground wire so dont worry about it. The motor should have double insulation.

Your pictures look exactly like mine so this should be easy.

Look at picture #3 that you posted. The wires are plugged into that plastic casing. If you look at the plastic casing from above do you see the six little screws there? 3 of those screws are holding the motor wires in place (Black, brown and white). Not sure where your ground wire is but I would bet that you have a 200x and not a 200.

The other 3 screws on the opposite side are holding nothing. Find a very tiny screwdriver and loosen those 3 screws up. Then you can do your wiring. White to white and black to HI or LOW speed. Cut off or lay back your ground wire. Make sure your wires are touching thru the small holes you put them thru and tighten those tiny screws up. Pull on the wires gently to make sure they are in good.

Now you can do your tests. If it still dont work you would need to get a voltmeter to see if it's the motor or not.

Good luck with the 200. I think you will find it much louder than than you thought it would be. It's not as loud as a 750 cfm 8" vortex but it's still a load. I would compare it to a 6" can fan at full speed. They run around 6 sones which aint too bad.

The 6" TD-150 is very good IMO. Much quieter than the 200 and can still pull a ton of air even on low speed. I compared the 150 with my bathroom fan and they are almost even. I did quite a few tests. Some from up close and some from 3 rooms down.

I'll finish this in a minute.


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## Hotwired (Dec 25, 2008)

I bought both the 150 and 200x just to do tests. I already own a 4" can-fan, a 6" eco plus high output and an 8" high output vortex. If I were to do a sound comparison test I would use this link to go by for Sone values: http://www.canfilters.com/fan_metal_home.html

Look at the right side of the chart. Can-fan lists the sone values of all their fans. If you are in a Home Depot one day, go to the bathroom fan aisle and do a test yourself with their fans. All of the fans their have sone values on them. You can really hear a major difference between a sone value of 2 and a sone value of 4. 2 is ok but 4 starts to get a bit loud.

Of course loudness depends on how stealthy you want your room to be. I want mine to be super quiet so I'm looking for sone values at ear level to be between 1 and 2. This way someone in my house will not hear my fans even if they were standing in front of the closed grow room door and was having a conversation with me. You would hear a slight hum standing outside my door only if everything was totally quiet. This would equate to about 1 to 1.5 sones.

For super quiet I would definitely go with Panasonic whisperlines. The 6" I have for my super stealth bedroom veg room fucking owns all. It keeps a 400 watt mh at room temp. My room is a 4 x 4 x 6.5 tent. I could put a 600 watt in there and it would stay room temp with that fan. With the 400 I can keep my hand right on the glass. The 6" is rated at 1.4 sones and let me tell you this, I can barely hear the wind rushing from my bed only 5 feet away. If I used insulated flex it would prolly go away all together. Damn crickets outside my window are 10 times as loud as my whiperline.

I'm stoned. Dont know why I bother writing so much. 

I can prolly give every single fan a sone value by now. The 4" can-fan is prolly around 5 sones. The 6" hi-speed eco is prolly around 12 sones.....has a very whiny sound and the 8" hi-speed vortex is prolly the same or a bit less as the 6". Maybe between 10 to 12 sones but no whiny noise. More like a jet engine roar lol.

I would rate the TD-150 at about 2.5 to 3 sones. It was almost equal to my bathroom fan which is 2.5 sones. The TD-200x is way louder but not near the 6" eco or 8" vortex. I would give it a value of around 7 or 8 sones. Much too loud for my liking but others who don't mind sound would love this thing. It's a mule and can pull a ton of air. You don't need any of those big assed fans for a small job and these things fit anywhere.

I tried both fans out on my Can-filter 33. Do me a favor, check out the specs real carefully for both items. The filter says it's rated at .75 for max pressure. The 150 says it can barely pull 50 cfm (LS) at .75. The 200x says it can barely pull 215 cfm (LS) at .75 pressure. This is all according to their spec sheets.

After a lot of research I found 2 different spec sheets for the TD-series fans. I will post them here: http://www.hvacquick.com/catalog_files/solerpalau_TD_Catalog.pdf?PHPSESSID=nlsj7q7ioalq99u0mj55u8sm42

and http://www.kitchensource.com/range-hoods/pdf/td-specifications.pdf

In all honesty I think the second link has the more accurate specs. They show the fans being quite a bit more powerful and I will have to agree 100%.

I sat the 200x right on top of my Can-filter 33 and that baby just blasted away. Easily pulling way more than 300 cfm. The specs in the second link match more closely with what I think is the right amount of cfm. I also mounted the 200x in other places but still found it much too loud to be used for my purposes. Oh, I forgot to add that I did this wired in Low Speed.

I aslo sat the 150 on my Can-filter 33. VERY pleasing sound levels. It pulled a ton of air even set at low speed. I wish I could measure how much exactly was coming out but I would have to say it was easily over 100 cfm. This was also wired on LS. This seems to beat the specs from the second link. These fans are way stronger than advertised...........at least the 150 and 200 are.

I need to do a few more tests on temp changes and air flow. I'll get back here another time


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## jnuggs (Dec 26, 2008)

+rep Hotwired. I appreciate it very much. I don't feel that I'm incapable of wiring this thing. I even had an electrician(friend) look at this thing. The casing is metal, but the motor housing is plastic. It says TD-200. I got this instead of the 200x cuz I didn't understand why the 200x moved less air for a bit more money. I've hooked it up white to white and black to black, and black to brown both. I can feel the motor hum a little with my hand on it when plugged in, but the fan propeller doesn't move. I'm starting to think this thing is junk and I'm out a chunk of change which really sucks!!! I was looking to flower sometime in the next week or so but there's no way I can keep my light cool enough without having the door open while running. I think the TD-100 is good for bringing air into my space, but not enough to pull it over a 6 foot length of ducting. dang.


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## Hotwired (Dec 26, 2008)

If all else fails call S&P. There should be a phone number on that sticker that shows you it's a 200. Ask for some help and maybe someone can talk you thru it. Wont hurt at all.

If they ask what application you are using the fan for just tell them it's going to be installed in your attic as your range exhaust fan.


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## jnuggs (Dec 26, 2008)

Do I just repackage it and send it back n' say I meant to get the 200x? or what? Even with a possibly fried motor?


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## FullMetalJacket (Dec 26, 2008)

i would just tell them the motor is fried.


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## BudsyMalone (Dec 27, 2008)

Hey Grenfranco, how loud are these whisper fans? I am looking at trying the 10" model which is rated 500CFM for $35. I am not using any ductwork or carbon filter, just need something in the ceiling to push air out a 6" opening to the outside. 



genfranco said:


> Not to be an ass or anything... but i think that everyone that buys those bog ol things are fools unless your growing a room with LOOOONNNNGGGG duct work..
> 
> i only used these type of fans for my cab and i am using a 400 watt hps.... my temps are roughly about 3 or 4 higher inside under the lights than outside my cab.... well i had to use a few... but mine where not rated this high either... i used 4" square one.....
> 
> ...


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## genfranco (Dec 27, 2008)

BudsyMalone said:


> Hey Grenfranco, how loud are these whisper fans? I am looking at trying the 10" model which is rated 500CFM for $35. I am not using any ductwork or carbon filter, just need something in the ceiling to push air out a 6" opening to the outside.


yeah those would work ... You could also look at those bathroom exhaust fans... they have some pretty silent ones and they work great.


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## jnuggs (Dec 27, 2008)

bump. That 10" for $35 is super cheap if one could cool the 400w, one could exhause air, and one for intake. Would they be powerful enough to cool a 400w hps?


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## jnuggs (Dec 27, 2008)

hotwired would you go with the S&P TD-150, or the Panasonic Whisper 240cfm at 1.4 Sones(the 6" model) Which would be best to use with the can filter 33. Also, do you think the can 33 is big enough for a 5x5x8(length, depth, height)??
1st is the Panasonic, 2nd is the filter I'm talkin about. Or do you think the 3rd, an ozone generator, would be better than the carbon filter for my room?
http://www.waveplumbing.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=55_80&products_id=159

http://www.hidhut.com/catalog/can-filter-33-includes-flange-p-1585.html

http://www.nehydro.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9&products_id=46&zenid=94b4e40d89dfcde0862a146e0cb970d1


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## Hotwired (Dec 27, 2008)

jnuggs said:


> hotwired would you go with the S&P TD-150, or the Panasonic Whisper 240cfm at 1.4 Sones(the 6" model) Which would be best to use with the can filter 33. Also, do you think the can 33 is big enough for a 5x5x8(length, depth, height)??
> 1st is the Panasonic, 2nd is the filter I'm talkin about. Or do you think the 3rd, an ozone generator, would be better than the carbon filter for my room?
> http://www.waveplumbing.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=55_80&products_id=159
> 
> ...


 
My pick for the fan would be the TD-150.

First let's discuss your filter needs. Your tent is 5 x 5 x 8 which equates to 200 cubic feet of air. So, imo, you really only need a Can-filter 9000 to take care of that space but a 33 will work if you have the space.

My reasons for picking the 150 over the Whisperline is because the Whisperlines are great for sucking just air alone. My 6", like the one you posted the link on, just sucks air out of my reflector in the tent. It keeps the room at house temp with a 400 watt mh.

They don't like to have a hard time pulling air through filters and such. They break down faster. The 150 has much more power and has 2 speed settings so you can do without a speed controller. Damn things add so much hum to the motor it drives me nuts.

If you are only going to use 1 fan for the whole tent I would wire the 150 on low speed and pull thru both a refelector and a Can-filter 9000. Do a test run for temps, then wire the 150 in hi-speed if you need more airflow to make it cooler.

I am not a fan of ozone gens.


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## dusty26 (Dec 28, 2008)

lol nice.......


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## jnuggs (Dec 28, 2008)

if I knew how to add rep anymore I would! I don't know if I like this new setup RIU has..hopefully I have better luck with the 150 than I did with the 200. I have the TD-100, and some cheap 8" inline duct booster. So I could do the 150 for the filter and light, and use the 100 for intake. That might work pretty well.
My only concern is the can-9000 says Max cfm: 118/200m³/h @ 0.1 sec contact time. Even the can-33 says Max cfm: 200/350m³/h @ 0.1 sec
contact time.
So is the TD-150 going to create too much air?


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## Hotwired (Dec 28, 2008)

jnuggs said:


> if I knew how to add rep anymore I would! I don't know if I like this new setup RIU has..


The admins have forever tarnished my rep so it doesn't matter anymore 

Just kidding admins!! 



jnuggs said:


> hopefully I have better luck with the 150 than I did with the 200. I have the TD-100, and some cheap 8" inline duct booster. So I could do the 150 for the filter and light, and use the 100 for intake. That might work pretty well.


It might but what may be better is no intake at all. The 150 will pull thru the filter/light and the air will be replaced by the air outside the tent. The 150 will create NEGATIVE pressure in your tent. This means that no air will escape your tent and air will only come in from outside the tent.



jnuggs said:


> My only concern is the can-9000 says Max cfm: 118/200m³/h @ 0.1 sec contact time. Even the can-33 says Max cfm: 200/350m³/h @ 0.1 sec
> contact time.




Check this out.....with the idea I gave you above.....you can keep the 100 for another use and make your tent kick ass. You can separate the filter/light combo and use the 150, wired on low speed, just for the light alone. Then stick the 100 on top of a Can-filter 9000, exhaust that out to the same place the light is going, and you are set.

You can still pull about 70 - 80 cfm out of the 9000 with the 100. According to this spec sheet: http://www.kitchensource.com/range-hoods/pdf/td-specifications.pdf

You can pull about 70 - 80 cfm at about .2 sp. The 9000 is not rated @ .75 sp. The 33 is rated @.75 sp. I believe the 9000 is actually rated at .2 sp. 



jnuggs said:


> So is the TD-150 going to create too much air?


Not at all. Especially when placed in a duct run. If you use both fans like I advised your room should remain cool. The 150 will keep the light cool and the 100 will replace the air in your tent every 3 minutes plus suck out any heat made by the light.

You have 200 cf of air in the tent - 70 cfm x 3 = 210 cf in 3 minutes. So don't worry if the 9000 isnt moving a lot of air......it's still cleaning it and replacing old air with fresh air. The 150 is the important air mover as it is the one keeping the light "cooler".

What is the temp outside of your tent? Mine is 77 and it stays 77 in the tent.


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## FullMetalJacket (Dec 28, 2008)

like hotwired sad td-150, and a can 33. I wouldn't go smaller in filter or fan if were you personally. And I ouldnt put the 100 as an input, i would do passive. 100cfm is slower than the 180-200 you ill be exhausting.

I have a can 2900, 33 and a 200x and 100. I am building a new cab and i ill be using 600 hps with a can 33 and td-150. 

My 200x is overkill in my current cab, as i have one for the lights and another for the carbon filter in my current cab because of c02,


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## genfranco (Dec 29, 2008)

jnuggs said:


> bump. That 10" for $35 is super cheap if one could cool the 400w, one could exhause air, and one for intake. Would they be powerful enough to cool a 400w hps?


hell yeah it would be enough.... The problem would be hooking up a 10" - 8" conversion vent deal.. Why dont oyu just buy the 4 inch ones for 20$ put one on one side sucking air in from the area...in through the light.. then another on the other end sucking air out of the hood... 


my light is a 400 hps and i have 4 cfls hanging down also for the blue light...


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## apasunee (Dec 29, 2008)

A 4" for 20 bucks,,,,,, where?????????


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## genfranco (Dec 29, 2008)

sorry 27.95$ each


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## Willy Nilly (Dec 29, 2008)

Look at the Can Fan Max (10" is what i have). Does the same thing... moves more air, and is pretty quiet. The only reason I'd buy one of these now is if it substantially quieter than what i have.


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## apasunee (Dec 30, 2008)

Is this one at home depot or online???????


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## Mahstakilla (Dec 30, 2008)

lol!! thats too expensive!


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## hondamatt (Jan 6, 2009)

You say to much for a fan well how much is the price of freedom to you?
I would spend as much money as i could if i could to make a project like this as silent as i could, while trying to move as much air as i can .


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## genfranco (Jan 7, 2009)

hondamatt said:


> You say to much for a fan well how much is the price of freedom to you?
> I would spend as much money as i could if i could to make a project like this as silent as i could, while trying to move as much air as i can .



then you want those box panasonic whisper fans...liek the one the guy had hooked up on weeds...


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## trainfreak (Jan 7, 2009)

ive got a ruck 6 inch fan on my carbon filter and its silent and extremely effective but obviously your paying a bit more for this type of extraction fan id sasy its worth it


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## genfranco (Jan 7, 2009)

trainfreak said:


> ive got a ruck 6 inch fan on my carbon filter and its silent and extremely effective but obviously your paying a bit more for this type of extraction fan id sasy its worth it


Yeah those... Damn they are much cheaper than the panasonic... I Might have to check in on those to bring regulated tamp air from inside the house out to the garage garden...lol..


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## keysmachine (Jan 7, 2009)

looks like you need to know how to solder stuff


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## jnuggs (Jan 7, 2009)

YO HOTWIRED! ha HA! Remember the S&P 200 I ordered, and fried I believe? Well I finally got around to calling hvacquick.com and they sent an email to S&P out of Florida to send me a brand new one. Then I'll either ship this one back to them, or pitch it he said. I didn't think to call really since it only has a 15 day return time and I've had it for 2 months now, plus I probably f'd it up! Now my only problem is, I really REALLY don't think that I need the 200!! If you say it's that powerful! I just want the 150! oh well I'm stoned and out. Thanks to everyone for keepin the thread goin. S&P mixvents kick ass, so does www.hvacquick.com 's customer service!


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## Hotwired (Jan 7, 2009)

I told ya to give that a try 

Ya those people at hvac are nice, and know a bit about what they are selling. You could have probably asked for an exchange too.

If you do use the 200 wire it up on low speed first and do a test run by just plugging it in. The only way to keep the volume down is to install it in your attic if you have one. Far away from the source you are pulling air out of.


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## jnuggs (Jan 8, 2009)

I was thinking about setting it up like this.. filter - duct - light - duct - fan. There would be about 2 feet of ducting from the filter to light, then like..6 foot of ducting from light to fan. I'm hoping that maybe this will help with the power a bit! Maybe even a Y duct adapter connected to the fan so that it's pulling air from the grow room to clean, then just pulling extra clean air from the attic ( half the power is to the filter..half to nothing) ??


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## synax (Jan 10, 2009)

Just ordered a TD-150 and fan controller for my small build I am working on now. Still deciding if I want to run a seperate fan for my cooltube and then use this for cleaning the air in the cabinet. My cab dimensions are: 

Flowering Section: 34in wide, 22in deep and 38in high
Utility/clone Section: 16.5in deep, 17.5in wide and 38in high

from my calculations, this gives me about 23 cubic feet total to work on cooling.


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## Hotwired (Jan 10, 2009)

synax said:


> Just ordered a TD-150 and fan controller for my small build I am working on now. Still deciding if I want to run a seperate fan for my cooltube and then use this for cleaning the air in the cabinet. My cab dimensions are:
> 
> Flowering Section: 34in wide, 22in deep and 38in high
> Utility/clone Section: 16.5in deep, 17.5in wide and 38in high
> ...


 
DAMN!!

Fuck me for forgetting to do a proper write up. I gave up doing reviews cause no one gives rep. Plus I'm crying cause I'm still at -rep 

But anyway I'll throw you a bone. Please DO NOT use a speed controller with these fans. YES, they will work fine, BUT they hum like a mother fuxer when you put a speed controller on them. You can use that fan wired on LOW speed to cool your light (if it's a 400 watt and under) and clear the air in the room. Just leave one end of the tube open and suck right out of the room, thru the light and into the attic. If the air you're sucking on is around 78 degrees or lower you should be fine with temps.

IMO I'd go with an even smaller fan but it's up to you. Once you get familiar with inline fans you will get it down easily


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## elenex7 (Jan 10, 2009)

well the vortex inline fans are about 10 dollars difference in price and you only need a 6inch where you need an 8inch with these fans you recommend


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## elenex7 (Jan 10, 2009)

make sure you setup has the fan sucking air from the fan pushing it out and need to be at the end of the setup. duct, light, duct, filter, fan


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## synax (Jan 10, 2009)

Well the controller was only $20 and if I don't use it on this setup I'm sure it will get used down the road. I plan on going duct - cooltube - duct - electrical room - filter - fan. Or I'll be doing a separate run for the cooltube all together and just sealing that run. We'll see - I still need to get the backing on my cabinet then seal it up to get some temp readings prior to building my ducting. I'll be using a lumatek 250 in the flowering area possibly with some CFL's to fill in the area and probably some CFL's in the veg/mother area. 

Overall this won't be a very large build but I am trying to go stealth (live in a townhouse) and just get a feel for things.


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## genfranco (Jan 10, 2009)

These hi power fans are ment to be hooked up to carbon filters... 

Carbon filter... tubing...fan..tubing..hood/light..tubing to outside

heres a pic to explain it all ... I had to make this cause people didnt understand... PS i dont use one...lol


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## MileHIGHclub101 (Jan 11, 2009)

genfranco said:


> These hi power fans are ment to be hooked up to carbon filters...
> 
> Carbon filter... tubing...fan..tubing..hood/light..tubing to outside
> 
> heres a pic to explain it all ... I had to make this cause people didnt understand... PS i dont use one...lol


thats exactly what i need to do genfranco this set up is going to help me greatly!!!! thanks!!


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## OneHit (Jan 12, 2009)

How do I change the speed? I don't see a switch.


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## jnuggs (Jan 12, 2009)

What would be the drawbacks of going Filter-duct-light-duct-fan ?? HOTWIRED how do you give rep man? I owe you some rep but I don't know how to give it anymore


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## MileHIGHclub101 (Jan 12, 2009)

i only need to be moving 24 cf of air but i need it quite is this really the way to go for such a small set up?


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## OneHit (Jan 12, 2009)

Also, along with wondering how to change speeds. THeres a smell that comes with mine, anyone else experience the same thing?


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## FullMetalJacket (Jan 12, 2009)

OneHit said:


> Also, along with wondering how to change speeds. THeres a smell that comes with mine, anyone else experience the same thing?


change speed by wiring it to the low.


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## iloveit (Jan 12, 2009)

trainfreak said:


> ive got a ruck 6 inch fan on my carbon filter and its silent and extremely effective but obviously your paying a bit more for this type of extraction fan id sasy its worth it


I have the same fan but I have mines connected to a "Primair" speed controller, unfortunately it makes a loud electric buzzing noise from the fan motor when the speed is set to medium so Im searching for silent speed controller no luck yet.


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## OneHit (Jan 12, 2009)

anyone got pics of thier wiring setup? I cant seem to figure it out


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## Hotwired (Jan 12, 2009)

OneHit said:


> Also, along with wondering how to change speeds. THeres a smell that comes with mine, anyone else experience the same thing?


Not sure about a smell. Hope you didn't burn out something. The wiring is self explanatory if you look at their installation manual. I have no idea which fan you have so please give me more information.



iloveit said:


> I have the same fan but I have mines connected to a "Primair" speed controller, unfortunately it makes a loud electric buzzing noise from the fan motor when the speed is set to medium so Im searching for silent speed controller no luck yet.


Yes, this is a major problem with almost all inline fans. It has something to do with capacitance and voltage. That's why there is the huge capacitor in the wiring box for the TD series fans. If you look inside all your inline fans, such as Can-fan and Vortex, you will see they all have a very large capacitor inside.

The problem with cheap speed controllers is all they do is lower the voltage for the fan. This in turn causes the "humming" to start up once you turn down the voltage. There are options out there to make the hum go away but they are much more expensive than your $25 controller. 

I had a link a Brit gave me from another forum but I can't find it. He gave me links to a voltage regulator in England and in the US. They were quite expensive....the cheapest being $75.

You could make it work if you're like me and figure out the exact cfm you will need. Once you know what will work you can buy the fan you need and just let it run without a speed controller. This is why I really like the TD series fans. They can be wired in 2 speeds and are quieter than most other inline fans.

I spent a lot of time and money finding out about fan speeds and noise volume and I don't regret it. I think, IMO, that I have the quietest grow op around. Two 16" oscillating fans, two TD-150's, two 1000 watt digital ballast and the use of insulated duct and my DR-300w won't wake a sleeping kitten 

My DR120 has four 6" clip on fans and a Panasonic Whisperquiet 6" inline doing all the work. They cool a 400 watt hood with digital ballast easily. You can't hear a peep from 5 feet away


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## OneHit (Jan 12, 2009)

Yeah, the smell was definatly because its wired wrong. I DID do brown to ground, white towhite, black to black. Now ive tried black to back, and white to white only, but still doesnt work

I have the td-150 model. The wiring in the istallation guide has 4 connection options. I see 120vac, ground and common


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## FullMetalJacket (Jan 12, 2009)

OneHit said:


> Yeah, the smell was definatly because its wired wrong. I DID do brown to ground, white towhite, black to black. Now ive tried black to back, and white to white only, but still doesnt work
> 
> I have the td-150 model. The wiring in the installation guide has 4 connection options. I see 120vac, ground and common


i think brown is low speed


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## Hotwired (Jan 12, 2009)

OneHit said:


> Yeah, the smell was definatly because its wired wrong. I DID do brown to ground, white towhite, black to black. Now ive tried black to back, and white to white only, but still doesnt work
> 
> I have the td-150 model. The wiring in the istallation guide has 4 connection options. I see 120vac, ground and common


Please READ the installation guide FULLY. Here is the link:

http://www.hvacquick.com/spfnconfig.php?fm=td


It states in bold letters: 
*Models TD 100, 100x, 125, 150 & 200x are double insulated and are not provided with external ground wire*

This means you didn't need to hook up the ground wire and you most likely burned out the fan. I know the diagram shows a YELLOW/GREEN connection for ground, but if you read the instructions, WHICH WERE DIRECTLY ABOVE THE DIAGRAM, then you would have known not to use the ground wire at all.

What you should have done in this order:

1. Read installation manual 100%
2. Break out with your tools and get to work 

Brown = low speed
Black = hi speed
White = common.

There shouldn't be a YELLOW/GREEN wire going to the motor at all.

Your cord should be slightly thick (like a computer power cord) and have 3 wires. Black, white and green. Do not use the green (ground) as I have already stated the reasons for this.

Hope this helps


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## OneHit (Jan 12, 2009)

Heres a picture


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## Hotwired (Jan 12, 2009)

OneHit said:


> Heres a picture


 
BAHAHAHAHAHHA........you got me cracking up man.

Read what I wrote. Christ I write a damn book for you and you still don't get it? And after all my hard work someone gave me minus rep.

I'll never reach 0 rep lol rofl


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## OneHit (Jan 12, 2009)

The installation manual that came with the package doesnt have those instructions you just listed... Oh, and the picture was just when I was just trying differnt things.

BTW when I connect all 3 wires together, W/W B/B G/B, the fan still spins. Its when I dont connect the green, it doesnt work. As in when its W/W B/B, it doesnt work

Ill try W/B B/W, maybe that willwork..


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## Hotwired (Jan 12, 2009)

OneHit said:


> The installation manual that came with the package doesnt have those instructions you just listed...


I really didn't want to say this cause I felt I didn't really have to but damn man a lil 

THANKS FOR HELPING ME HOTWIRED

would sure have made me feel a bit more respected for my help and make me feel like I should continue helping.

But after getting neg rep and no thanks I'm done with all this. Why bother?


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## OneHit (Jan 12, 2009)

Lol, Well thanks for helping me, but its not working still. So my original question still hasnt been answered. And it wasnt me that gave you neg rep, I dont even know how to give it in the first place. So dont place your anger here


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## OneHit (Jan 12, 2009)

Well, I tried it with br/b and w/b and it runs, but im worried that its not running the right way. Any thoughts hotwired? So, ive figured out that it turns on with all 3 wired together, and with the last combination. But it doesnt work with how it makes sense B/B W/W


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## Hotwired (Jan 12, 2009)

Never blamed you for the rep. Good luck in finding a fix. I tried my best.


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## OneHit (Jan 12, 2009)

Lol, youve directed me the installation manual, which I have and that does not work. Youve told me that the green/ground doesnt need to be connected, which it isnt. Ive followed all your steps. The only thing you havnt told me is exactly what wire, to what wire they go to, which is what I need.

*Edit Well I think I figured it out. Mine seemed to have been wired incorrectly. The brown/black and white/black connection seems to work without any smell.


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## OneHit (Jan 12, 2009)

Well nevermind, that doesnt seem to work either. The motor still gets very hot. Im out of combinations that will work without the motor overheating. brown/white and black/black seems to work also, but at this point im wary that its connected wrong still


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## Hotwired (Jan 12, 2009)

I'll try one last time but man....

Anyway this is all I can do. Please read carefully.

Link to the guide directly:

http://www.hvacquick.com/catalog_files/solerpalau_TD_IOM.pdf

Please go to page 4 and listen closely. The first diagram looks something like this....



120 VAC-------------------> HI -------------Black------------
l
l
l
l---------------------------> LO ------------Brown------------

Ground---------------------> G -----------Yellow/Green-------

Common--------------------> N -------------White-----------




That's the best I can do with that diagram. Lets start on the left side of the diagram. The left side is your cord. Your cord is a thick black cord containing a white, black and green wire. The black wire equals the "120 VAC" wire on the diagram. The line extending below "120 VAC" is your same black wire but it shows that it's wired to the brown or LO speed wire instead. The green wire equals the "Ground" wire on the diagram and the white wire equals the "Common" wire on the diagram.

In the middle of the diagram going downwards are "HI, LO, G and N". HI equals HI speed and is wired to the right side of the diagram leading to the motor and is black in color. LO equals low speed and is wired to the brown wire on the right side of the diagram leading to the motor.

READ CAREFULLY: YOUR FAN DOES NOT NEED A GROUND WIRE NOR DOES IT COME WITH ONE AS SHOWN IN THE DIAGRAM. THEREFORE YOU WILL NOT SEE A YELLOW/GREEN WIRE COMING FROM THE MOTOR (THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE DIAGRAM). SO IN YOUR MIND EITHER TAKE OUT THAT WIRE OR CROSS IT OUT. IT DOES NOT EXIST.

Please follow these simple instructions on what to do with YOUR power cords green wire.

You have already pulled back and exposed the copper on all three wires. Right after you read this sentence I want you to cut off that green wire. Just the top inch or 2.

Thanks. You are done with that step. Wow wasn't that easy. Here is a chew toy...let's go to the next step 

The next two letters in the middle of the diagram are G and N. But you already know what we did with the G...right?

OK!! On to the N. The N equals the neutral side of the cord which is usually white but sometimes can be RED. BUT DON'T LET ME CONFUSE YOU 

This (usually) white wire (but sometimes red) will be wired to the white wire leading to the motor. 

So all in all how many wires will we be working with once we know how to wire it?

3 right??

NOOOOOOOOOOOO!! hehe this is fun cause I just took a hit 

Lets take a look at the white plastic piece which hold all the wires. This is a very important part of the whole operation. If the inside connection has been melted due to incorrect wiring then we have to do something different.

OH NOOOEESSS!! Something different!  But we can do it!

After all this nonsense above I'm sure you are saying, "WTF Hotwired, stop being a dick and just tell me how to wire the damn thing."

But but but....if I don't explain the whole darn process you might get upset and smash fan against wall. Then we can't fix it at all and that's a damn shame 

Now do you just want me to tell you to wire YOUR cords white wire to the white wire leading to the motor and YOUR cords black wire to EITHER the black wire (HI speed) or the brown wire (LOW speed) leading to the motor.

Is that all you wanted? hehe but what if it doesn't work?

Maybe you blew the motor OR melted the connection inside that plastic wire holder. If this is so there is one last way to check. Read up...

MAKE SURE YOUR CORD IS NOT PLUGGED IN...OK THX LIVE LONGER PLZ

Loosen the tiny screws inside the plastic piece that hold all the wires in place. The wires will just slip out, no need to pull. Just make sure the screws that are holding the wires are loose. Now wire the white wire from your power cord directly to the white wire leading to the motor. PLZ USE WIRE NUTS IF YOU HAVE THEM.

Where is your power cords green wire?

Don't even touch it or I'm coming for your weed 

Now wire the black wire from YOUR power cord to EITHER the black or brown wire leading to the motor. This will determine what speed you want.

Remember to try both of the motors wires (black or brown). You may have blown one side but the other can still be good. It seems like you still get some power but something isn't right. If this fails you may have a faulty power cord but most likely you blew out the fan. Your next step is to call the people you got it from and try to send it back. If your'e a good liar tell 'em it was like this when you got it.

Again good luck


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## OneHit (Jan 12, 2009)

Hotwire. Thank you for not abadoning me like you said you would, and typing that up with very good descriptions. I have it working now. I guess the problem was with the connections on that little rectangle thing. After I took it out and used wire connectors, it worked like a charm. No smell, no heat problems. THANK YOU for all your help. That post should be put on the first page in the instruction manual thats included with it to help electrical noobs like me


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## jnuggs (Jan 12, 2009)

+++REP hotwired for taking the time to help out more than one member of RIU on Wiring S&P TD inline mixvent fans!! Can't wait to get my other one this week!


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## Hotwired (Jan 12, 2009)

lol..glad I was able to help you guys



Sadly I have yet to receive any rep for posts in this thread 

No problem..maybe I'll be on the positive rep side by next year


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## OneHit (Jan 12, 2009)

how can you give rep? i cant find it anymore


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## Hotwired (Jan 12, 2009)

OneHit said:


> how can you give rep? i cant find it anymore


 
Someone posted how to do it. You have to go into your settings and options and pick your skin style to "blzn 07" or something like that. It comes up with the old website style.


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## upinchronic1 (Jan 13, 2009)

Who wants a S&P fan?


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## jnuggs (Jan 13, 2009)

Who wants? A free one? I do!


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## MileHIGHclub101 (Jan 13, 2009)

upinchronic1 said:


> Who wants a S&P fan?


How big is it?


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## upinchronic1 (Jan 13, 2009)

MileHIGHclub101 said:


> How big is it?


500 cf mother quiffen m'ss. Not free but how about... 120 smacks?


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## upinchronic1 (Jan 13, 2009)

Oh and ill through the speedster Speed controll in


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## FullMetalJacket (Jan 13, 2009)

upinchronic1 said:


> Oh and ill through the speedster Speed controll in


you got a 200x right?

that is my favorite fan ive ever owned. I have only tried the td-100, vortex 6, and pan whisper 6.


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## jnuggs (Jan 14, 2009)

yo hotwire..again.. I got my new S&P 200 in yesterday, wired it up, works fine. I have a couple of questions though. You have the 200X right? I got the 200(the motor says 200 on it too) but it has plastic fan blades. On the S&P manual it says the 200 should have metal fan blades, and the 200X are plastic. Do you think I should call and ask what's going on, or just stick with what I've got? The 200 that I ordered is supposed to have a ground wire and metal blades, but has no ground wire and plastic... what do ya think? And I really do appreciate all of your help thus far.

Attn staff: hotwire deserves to at LEAST be even or somewhat positive on his REP for all his help in this thread ALONE.


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## OneHit (Jan 14, 2009)

From what Ive heard, plastic is better because its quieter than metal


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## MileHIGHclub101 (Jan 14, 2009)

upinchronic1 said:


> Oh and ill through the speedster Speed controll in


HOLY shit man that is a big fuckin one ive been wanting to get one of these fans to replace the inline6" i have going (too loud) but that things just enormous for what i need, but im still gonna think about it cause thats a hell of a deal!


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## Hotwired (Jan 14, 2009)

nuggs - I think you got a 200x from the sounds of it. I would agree with onehit that the plastic ones may be quieter but it's your fan. You might call just to ask out of curiosity.


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## OneHit (Jan 14, 2009)

I have both a normal inline one. The Active Air hydrofarm, and the S&P. I cant use the hydrofarm one because its WAAAY too loud, and the location of my grow. The S&P one works great. Its possible to hear it through the doors still, but when the computers and fans are on in the room, its hides it perfectly. I also use insulated duct


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## klmmicro (Jan 14, 2009)

I was thinking about the ducting. Insulated seems like the way to go for these. I am just starting my grow and have ordered an S&P 4" for cooling. I was messing with my lights (1x400 watt HPS) in the tent and there just is not enough heat to justify more than say 100 CFM. Look forward to trying out the fan!


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## jnuggs (Jan 14, 2009)

I have the 4" model, it's a pretty nice little fan. I use it for intake since I have the 200 for exhaust. Seems to be a well built machine! Good luck with your grow klmmicro.
hotwired - I think I'll just chill on this. I'm glad I actually got a replacement. Now I'm hoping that MAYBE I can find a capacitor for under $20 to swap out on the bad one, to see if that's it. That would be a cheap fix!


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## OneHit (Jan 14, 2009)

Klmicro. Actually, the 6 inch one seems to just work perfectly for my 400W closet. There are two settings, one around 220 another around 300. THe 220 one wasnt strong enough, temps rised to about 90. The 300 cfm seems to just work fine. My size is 3x3x7


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## klmmicro (Jan 14, 2009)

Thanks jnuggs! I am looking forward to it. I am a wee bit rusty overall and definitely no indoor experience. What cap do you need?

That is exactly what I was looking for OneHit. Sounds like 200-250 CFM is about perfect.


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## jnuggs (Jan 15, 2009)

The capacitor says this

Ducati Energia
16.1825SA
16 &#56256;&#56363;F +/-5% (that square is like an upside down h)
250V~ 10000h /cl. B
400V~ 3000h / cl. C
425V~ 1000h / cl. D
-25/85/21 PO CE

250 Vac 60Hz
-25/85 degree celcius
CSA C22.2 N. (degree)190

it also says S20/08 on it

I have no idea how to find the capacitor. thanks for any help any of you can provide me! stay safe.


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## jnuggs (Jan 15, 2009)

Sorry, on the outside of the fan it says

120V 60Hz 100W 0.80A Listed
Cap. 16 uF 250 V

not sure if that helps at all. Thanks again.


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## jnuggs (Jan 16, 2009)

bump..anyone ..


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## OneHit (Jan 16, 2009)

Theres no model number? You know its made by ducati


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## klmmicro (Jan 16, 2009)

It is a .8 amp, 16 micro farad cap for 120VAC. Should be able to pick one up at an electronics store like Radio Shack. How big is it (physical size)?


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## indawindica (Jan 16, 2009)

Just hooked up the 150 6" in my darkroom 150 for a hood cooling fan. very quiet and the wireing was super easy. I am very pleased with this fan!!!


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## jnuggs (Jan 16, 2009)

The physical size of the capacitor is about 2 1/4" long, by 1 1/2 wide. I tried searching the internet but could not find the Ducati Energia model available anywhere. I'm assuming I could use a different brand of the same specifications? Would it be worthwhile to change the capacitor to see if the fan will work again?
Also..
Do you think it's safe to put the TD 200 in a cardboard box, full of peanuts? I don't think the fan would get hot enough to burn them? I think that'd be easier than building a wooden box. At the moment I'm short on cash and space for the wooden muffle box. Thanks all and keep safe!


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## bobharvey (Jan 16, 2009)

southfloridasean said:


> Well I spoke to someone regarding that just today no contest when it comes to quietness.
> Check this out & go to pg 2 http://www.hvacquick.com/catalog_files/solerpalau_TD_Extended_Catalog.pdf


does all the necessary wiring come with the fan? Cause I don't know how to wire anything haha


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## OneHit (Jan 16, 2009)

Nope, you have to get your own wiring. Its pretty simple, unless you get some loose wiring like mine came


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## jnuggs (Jan 16, 2009)

bobharvey.. check back like 3 pages or so and the wiring is fully explained
good luck and stay safe!


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## klmmicro (Jan 16, 2009)

jnuggs said:


> The physical size of the capacitor is about 2 1/4" long, by 1 1/2 wide. I tried searching the internet but could not find the Ducati Energia model available anywhere. I'm assuming I could use a different brand of the same specifications? Would it be worthwhile to change the capacitor to see if the fan will work again?
> Also..
> Do you think it's safe to put the TD 200 in a cardboard box, full of peanuts? I don't think the fan would get hot enough to burn them? I think that'd be easier than building a wooden box. At the moment I'm short on cash and space for the wooden muffle box. Thanks all and keep safe!


As long as the ratings are the same, you can use any manufacturers run cap. Mars is a company that we get most often. Most AC supply houses carry them, though you might even be able to pick one up from Home Depot or the like.


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## jnuggs (Jan 16, 2009)

awesome thank you very much klmmicro!


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## bobharvey (Jan 16, 2009)

OneHit said:


> Nope, you have to get your own wiring. Its pretty simple, unless you get some loose wiring like mine came


So do I just pick up an extention cord?


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## OneHit (Jan 16, 2009)

Yeah, HD has the kind where it comes to be wired. One end plugs into the wall, other is just 3 wires, black, white, and green


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## bobharvey (Jan 19, 2009)

does anyone have this fan hooked up to a homemade filter? I have a cabinet and i'm trying to figure out how i'm going to lower temps and control odor. When I get a camera i can posts pics so that maybe someone can help me. But I'd like to see some pictures of this fan hooked up to a diy scrubber so i can at least believe its possible and hopefully generate some ideas of my own.


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## tokinwhiteguy (Jan 19, 2009)

So can I just buy one of the cheapest 4" one of these ...
http://www.hvacquick.com/spfnconfig.php?fm=td

Splice an extension cord and hook it up to either the high or low (according to the diagram)? Then just run some ac flex duct from it to a homemade carbon scrubber. Can I get away with some PC fans for the air intake?


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## jnuggs (Jan 20, 2009)

bobharvey, I'm not sure why you need pictures of the fan hooked up to a DIY filter to believe it works. I took a few pictures but the quality isn't great. I also am using the TD 200 model. I have it hooked up to about 30 foot of insulated ducting, my light, and a 30"x6"(diam.) DIY filter..the fan is way too powerful for my closet(5'Lx5'Wx8'H)

tokin - more info on your op would be helpful. What size/etc. I use the cheapest 4"(TD-100) for my intake and it's a nice little quiet fan! Yes you can splice an extension cord and hook it up. Mine didn't have a high/low. It just had hot, common, ground..or black to black, white to white, green to green. It may only cost about 1/2 the price though if you get an Appliance Replacement Cable..should be around $5!
Good luck to you both with your grows! Stay Safe!


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## JordanTheGreat (Jan 20, 2009)

you think a TD150 could could handle a run like this- tent,hood,duct,fan,filter...? i would have it the other way around, but i hadda make a pvc frame for my tent and it is in no way strong enough to get my vote for a mounting point... think it will do it on full blast?


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## jnuggs (Jan 20, 2009)

How big is the tent? What light? Do you currently have a grow going? If so, what are the temps like now, and what CFM fan are you using? PEACE


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## JordanTheGreat (Jan 20, 2009)

dr150, 4'11"x4'11"x6'7"...1000W lumatek, hortilux eye, hydrofarm radiant six hood, can33 filter. soler palau TD150 on high pushes 293cfm, nothing currently in this flowering room, its brand newey so i dont have base data yet... i was hoping it would be able to push thru the scrubber at the end of the line


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## tokinwhiteguy (Jan 20, 2009)

sweet, thanks for the confirmation jnuggs. I can't wait to get my seeds!


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## OneHit (Jan 21, 2009)

jordan, from what i hear its always better to pull through the scrubber than push. I would think that you wouldnt want any resistance at the end of your exhaust to be pushed back through the vent.


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## JordanTheGreat (Jan 21, 2009)

thanks one hit... the only roblem is lack of a mounting apparatus sturdy enough to suspend the filter at optimum height for an exhaust point. i'm gonna give it a whirl, just hooked it all up today. fired it up and the tent sides sucked in like a girl posing for a picture ina bathing suit. i think im gonna be okay...thanks for turnin us on these fans bruh, shits are legit


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## 7th1der (Jan 26, 2009)

I just ordered the 5 inch fan rated 197 CFM's. *Does anyone have the TD-125?*


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## 7th1der (Jan 26, 2009)

bobharvey said:


> does anyone have this fan hooked up to a homemade filter? I have a cabinet and i'm trying to figure out how i'm going to lower temps and control odor. When I get a camera i can posts pics so that maybe someone can help me. But I'd like to see some pictures of this fan hooked up to a diy scrubber so i can at least believe its possible and hopefully generate some ideas of my own.



Dude, I noticed that you and I seem to be on the same boat. I was thinking about designing something similar to the cab posted in *this thread*.


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## specialkayme (Jan 27, 2009)

7th1der said:


> I just ordered the 5 inch fan rated 197 CFM's. *Does anyone have the TD-125?*


I do. Why do you ask?


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## 7th1der (Jan 27, 2009)

specialkayme said:


> I do. Why do you ask?



Just to hear/see the different setups. *How big is the area you are exhausting?** Is it for a cab*?


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## specialkayme (Jan 31, 2009)

Yeah, it's for an old style Mills Pride cab. 400 watt, 30"x22"x70"


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## 420anonymous (Feb 2, 2009)

I bought those fans talked about on page 36. I can't figure out how to hook them up. If anyone can help, I started a thread here:

https://www.rollitup.org/grow-room-design-setup/157524-need-help-w-fan-hookup.html


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## 7th1der (Feb 2, 2009)

Just got in my TD-125 Mixvent and I used a computer monitor cable to wire it. It worked but it seems to no be running at 197 CFM's and there is a mild burnt smell comming from it. I match the wires up white to white, black to black, and green to red (it was the only ones left). *Should I hadda used an extension cord?*

*Please help!*​


----------



## 7th1der (Feb 2, 2009)

Wait.... figured it out.  Disconnected green from red and this sum'bitch is blowing air!


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## bobharvey (Feb 2, 2009)

I'm an idiot. I wired my fan wrong and blew the motor...lol. 

I gotta buy a new one. I learned a great lesson though. Pay attention!


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## Hotwired (Feb 3, 2009)

bobharvey said:


> I'm an idiot. I wired my fan wrong and blew the motor...lol.
> 
> I gotta buy a new one. I learned a great lesson though. Pay attention!


What is it with you people? 

Are we all so stoned we get too lazy to read?

Look on page 11 in this thread (p. 11 for me) or go to post #320 in this thread and read my simple step by step instructions on how to wire the S&P fans. US only, not UK. They sell the exact fans there but different specs.

My detailed explanation is so easy to follow an 8 year old can do it. 

I have faith in you stonies. I know you can do it!! 

ps.......yes you can leave me tons of +rep for all my help. Thanks!


----------



## 7th1der (Feb 3, 2009)

Hotwired said:


> What is it with you people?
> 
> Are we all so stoned we get too lazy to read?
> 
> ...


This is exactly why I wasn't stoned when I hooked it up. When I called myself making a cool tube  I broke the first bake-a-round.


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## bobharvey (Feb 3, 2009)

You didn't help me at all; i learned my lesson from my own mistake. That is what they are for.


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## Hotwired (Feb 3, 2009)

bobharvey said:


> *I'm an idiot*. I wired my fan wrong and blew the motor...lol.
> 
> I gotta buy a new one. I learned a great lesson though. Pay attention!





bobharvey said:


> You didn't help me at all; i learned my lesson from my own mistake. That is what they are for.


 
Thats ok. There are only so many people I can help that actually have brain cells


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## bobharvey (Feb 3, 2009)

Are you trying to make fun of me...for me making fun of myself? Very clever!


----------



## 7th1der (Feb 7, 2009)

Hey, what carbon scrubber do you guys/gals with the 5 inch model use?


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## uptosumpn (Feb 9, 2009)

i AM VERY INTERESTED IN THESE MYSELF, AS TO I NEED THE QUIETEST FAN POSS. FOR STEALTH..MY QUESTION IS THIS...WHAT WATTAGE IS YOUR LIGHTS IN THE COOLTUBE? BECAUSE I READ YOU SAID U USE 1 TO PUSH AIR THROUGH AND THE OTHER TO PULL...REASON BEING I AM GONNA USE THE TD-150 FOR MY RADIANT 6 AC, AND I AM PROBABLY GONNA HAVE A LONG DUCT RUN TO ATTIC, (7'+) I WILL BE COOLING A 600HPS..DO I NEED 2 LIKE YOUR SET-UP TO COOL AFFECTIVLY? DOES THIS HELP WITH COOLING THE AIR CONSIDERABLY BY THE TIME IT EXITS IN YOUR DUCT RUN???<<<[VERY IMPORTANT, BECAUSE I WANT MY AIR TEMP COOL AS POSS. SO I DONT HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT ANY HEAT SIG IN MY ATTIC) FROM THE DAMM FLIR'S...!THANKS IN ADVANCE



southfloridasean said:


> Thats good info Filthy, but I prefer the 1st company from my post. Filthy thats also a good deal on the boat bee.
> 
> Edcocks I ordered two of these yesteday.
> 
> ...


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## specialkayme (Feb 10, 2009)

7th1der said:


> Hey, what carbon scrubber do you guys/gals with the 5 inch model use?


I use a Can 33 ... but the goblin might be a better fit if you have a smaller area.


----------



## 7th1der (Feb 10, 2009)

specialkayme said:


> I use a Can 33 ... but the goblin might be a better fit if you have a smaller area.



That's what I was thinking! But I'm worried about the cfm rating of the filter. *Does that shit even matter?*


----------



## specialkayme (Feb 10, 2009)

Yes. Keep it within the range and you will be fine. If you go slightly out one way or the other it probably won't matter too much, but going more than 50 cfm above or below the recommended rating will mean problems.


----------



## 7th1der (Feb 10, 2009)

specialkayme said:


> Yes. Keep it within the range and you will be fine. If you go slightly out one way or the other it probably won't matter too much, but going more than 50 cfm above or below the recommended rating will mean problems.


Good Looking dude! *Would you happen to know what the Goblins are rated at?*


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## specialkayme (Feb 11, 2009)

Not off the top of my head. Check the website, they should say.

I think it was somewhere around 100 cfm, but I don't really remember.


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## 7th1der (Feb 11, 2009)

specialkayme said:


> Not off the top of my head. Check the website, they should say.
> 
> I think it was somewhere around 100 cfm, but I don't really remember.


Okay! I'll look into it. I am running my temp tests for the exhaust on low speed with the 400w HPS now. So far, so good! I think I just may be *another one of those satisfied customers!*


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## 7th1der (Feb 11, 2009)

It says "Optimal CFM Range: 265-350cfm". *Will the put too much stress on the motor of the fan if the fan is rated 197cfm on high?*


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## specialkayme (Feb 11, 2009)

I run mine on max speed, just in case.

It's only a difference of like 40-50 cfm, and when you factor in the carbon filter it really isn't that much more. But I like the added mental ease that comes with making sure that the cab won't overheat.

Keep us updated, and pics are always welcome


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## specialkayme (Feb 11, 2009)

7th1der said:


> It says "Optimal CFM Range: 265-350cfm". *Will the put too much stress on the motor of the fan if the fan is rated 197cfm on high?*


Go with the elf instead, sorry, I got the two mixed up:

http://www.mdhydro.com/hyfi.html

ELF

CFM : 150-265 cfm Weight: 5.5 lbs Flange: 4 inches Diameter: 6 inches


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## 7th1der (Feb 11, 2009)

specialkayme said:


> Go with the elf instead, sorry, I got the two mixed up:
> 
> http://www.mdhydro.com/hyfi.html
> 
> ...



I figured you meant to say Elf! lol Yerz look sweet by the way!

I just switched my fan high and the temps are at 91 degrees. Feels like summertime in that bitch! lol Just turned on the a/c. It's not equivalent to the windows being open at night but close enough at this point. *How did you get the 4 inch ducting to stay on the 5 inch fan?* or *do you have he Goblin?
* 
Here's my set up without carbon












*I removed the CFL's to run the HPS test.*

Thanks for all your help and speedy replies!​


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## 7th1der (Feb 11, 2009)

*Does having one 4 inch passive intake seem to be my problem?*

Temps reached 96!  That shit aint no different from when I tried to use a pc fan to exhaust a cool tube. ​


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## Hotwired (Feb 11, 2009)

7th1der said:


> *Does having one 4 inch passive intake seem to be my problem?*


Answering this question:

Yes

Do I know exactly what you need?

Answering my question:

No. I'm not there...I can't see everything.

First, what is the temp outside your grow box?

Second, what is the total cubic feet for the grow box?

You may be pulling air from outside the box and thru the fan without giving it time to cool the box. In your case you may have to do something different. Maybe push the cool air into the box and have it passively go out. This may carry more heat out with it and bring the temp down. 

At least you will be forcing cool air to fill the box up and make its own way out. Or you could put a small fan on the exhaust to help the air move out better.
Try different shit man.


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## JordanTheGreat (Feb 11, 2009)

in some cases it is necessary to have both an INTAKE and EXHAUST fan...i couldn't get my tent below eighty degrees with passive intake. now i duct in air from the window with an axial fan, stays below seventy five everyday


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## uptosumpn (Feb 11, 2009)

hey hotwired this question for you, since you seem to be the man with all the right answers...1. here's my future set-up;" a homebox XL, (4.5'x4.5'x6.5'), radiant 6 a/c reflector, lumintek 600 120v ballast, 600hps hortilux, growing in soil,(oceans forest) via 3gal growbags, 2 6" air circulating fans, insulated ducting, a 6" in-line booster fan with 2 backdraft dampers for duct run from light, (maybe 10' to 20' duct run into attic above garage) some fat mat and some thermal-shield lined inside my grow cabinet, garage door, and possibly inside the attic to block FLIR ..http://www.hydrowholesale.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=hydro&Category_Code=TS

Whew!...Now my over all goal is "ultimate stealth"!!! ie; "smell, sound & heat sig" I have been doing research for about a month now on the quietest fans avail. and I think I found them....

So here is my question....considering my set-up and what I require, would it be a good idea to use the TD-150 for cooling my light and another TD-150 with a Can 33 filter to effectivly clean the air inside the cabinet? and finally, which way is more effective, ducting air from td-150/can-33 to outside the tent or recirculating/scrubbing the air from the td-150/can-33 in side the tent?? << [i like this way best cause it's less ducting to run]

Sorry that this was all drawn out, but after reading this entire thread, I had to make sure that I "completly understand" everything discussed, espcially the static pressure vs. CFM..you def. taught me a lot! ++rep for you, period!

Oh, forgot to mention, as far as air intake goes...I live in humid S. Fla. so I was considering a portable A/C 7000btu for my air intake instead of passive or those $20-$40 inline blower fans..whatta ya think? check it out....http://www.globalindustrial.com/gcs/prod/30128181/i/1/productInfo.web#navPanel


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## JordanTheGreat (Feb 11, 2009)

i know the question wasnt for me but you could use a td150 for the light and scrubber on the same line...pulls really good for a tent


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## Hotwired (Feb 11, 2009)

Hey man thx for the kind words. I will try to help you out here but you have almost everything covered.

I believe you already know how hot it will get in a garage that does not have central A/C in it in s florida. So you already know that an A/C will be needed because you can't cool a light or a tent with intake air that is already 90 - 100 degrees.

Firstly, you may have went overboard on the heat detection stuff but "better safe than sorry!". As long as it makes you feel good is all that matters.

Second, I like how you thought about using separate fans. The 600 is perfect for that tent because it will cover the whole thing with no side lighting needed. I would have went with a 600 MH conversion for veg tho.

You also stated you would rather save on an extra duct run with the filter...........ok.....this may work out.

I don't like the (booster and circulating) 6" fans but they might work. You will see when you use them. They just don't seem to have the power you really want.

I'm not sure where you stand on CO2 but in your case you can use it. I'm wondering where your air will be coming from to cool your light. Will it be too hot to make a difference? I don't know. 

You CAN use the second 150 to scrub if you are creating a "sealed" environment. This way it will stay on 24/7 and clean the air in the tent with no need to vent it out. 

You can place your A/C in the tent also. Make sure you get an A/C that uses an air cooled coil (water cooled coils use a ton of water and power) This way the tent remains "sealed" because you will have an input to cool the coil and an output that releases the hot air. All the while the A/C cools the air in the tent. Don't use that blower...will just make your garage hotter than ever.

So you have almost everything you need. 

A 150 to cool the light. I'm most worried about this cause your garage, unlike inside the home, is hot as hell. It will still pull the heat out but how much? That will be one of your points of interest.

A 150 to scrub a Can 33. Excellent. Leave on 24/7 @ low speed inside the tent ONLY if you are going to use co2. Otherwise you will need to refresh the air every 15 minutes or so. Some people say less, some more, but I like 15 minutes off then 5 minutes on if you are NOT using co2.

The reason for this is the A/C. Why waste it by continually refreshing the air? If you do decide to use a timer that will let you turn off your scrubbing fan for 15 minutes, then on for 5, then leave out the co2....you really dont need it. You figure the A/C gets to cool off the tent for 15 minutes before the scrubber turns on and gets new fresh air in for 5 minutes. This way the scrubber will turn on 3 times every hour AND you can get away with venting this air right out into the garage. No additional duct.

There are many ways to work things out. It all depends on trial and error. It seems like you have read up on your important material. You will figure it out 

Keep me updated and I'll try to help out along the way.


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## uptosumpn (Feb 11, 2009)

thanks for the quick and very informative reply...ok, here goes my reply....first, on the heat detection stuff..LOL.. I mean yeah, better safe than sorry right? So, you think it's over kill? Man i dont know, because everyday those helicoptors are flying and i am most certain 95% of the time they have the FLIR on...so here is another ques...would the FLIR pick up on a the heat of a 600hps and the heat that assoc with it? Second, I was going to get a 600MH but I forgot to mention that i will be growing Autos/Lowryders...24 of them.(dont need veg. light, but i am gonna use some 24w cfl's during propagation/veg for 2wks. The hotilux 600hps as you know has 25-30% blus spectrum in it) Third, the 6" circulating fans are for blowing air over the tops..(Oscallating fan, the little white ones..maybe i wasn't clear..my bad) as far as those in-line blowers go, that was to go in my duct run, (because i know it is gonna be a long one..maybe 15'-20') do you think the TD-150 is powerful enough to handle a duct run that long by itself effectivly? I want the air that comes out of this long ass run the coolest it can be...whatta you think? Forth, I am gonna use Co2, just not on this grow..will get that eqiup. after this harvest so I can compare..., As far as where the air is gonna come from for the lights i was thinking about putting my portable A/C "outside/beside" the tent and with a 6x6x6 Y connector and duct one outlet in bottom of tent for air intake, (with cooling thermostat) and point the other outlet towards the intake side of tent where td-150 will be sucking in air..thus giving me cooler air for the lights...[now when the thremostat turns the A/C unit off when desired temp is reached inside tent, of course no more "cool air" will blow towards td-150 air intake side of tent, BUT, I figured that wont be long considering the shit might not ever be off for no more than 1-5min...] what do u think/ will it work? Fifth, So it's best to leave it on the low setting 24/7 if "scurbbing"? Sixth, when u say; " Don't use that blower...will just make your garage hotter than ever"... Are you talking about the one in the link I sent in my earlier post?? If, so then any reccomendations? Because the main reason I picked that one was I have NOWHERE to vent outside like those other kinds of portable a/c units require....HELP!  and thanks again......



Hotwired said:


> Hey man thx for the kind words. I will try to help you out here but you have almost everything covered.
> 
> I believe you already know how hot it will get in a garage that does not have central A/C in it in s florida. So you already know that an A/C will be needed because you can't cool a light or a tent with intake air that is already 90 - 100 degrees.
> 
> ...


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## 7th1der (Feb 12, 2009)

Hotwired said:


> Answering this question:
> 
> Yes
> 
> ...


*
**My box is like 14inches X 42.5 inches X 34 inches*. You do the math! lol I do need to add another passive intake but I am trynna decide whether it should be another 4 inch or if I should make it smaller. Temps outside the box never reach above 78 degrees.​


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## Hotwired (Feb 12, 2009)

Blow the air in bro. See what happens. Your box is so small it may not be holding the cool air long enough. That S&P is sucking it right out.


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## 7th1der (Feb 12, 2009)

Hotwired said:


> Blow the air in bro. See what happens. Your box is so small it may not be holding the cool air long enough. That S&P is sucking it right out.


 I was thinking that! I called myself putting another fan at the top (120mm PC fan) to exhaust the heat and when I closed the door there was no air blowing out of the PC fan. Lol Guess its because all the damn air is being sucked out of the S&P. I am going to try and use the 120 fan for the intake before I drill another passive intake hole. Won't be trying it til the morning though. I will definitely give updates first thing. Thanks for your help!


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## Hotwired (Feb 12, 2009)

NP bro

Always stand back, away from what you are working on, and ask yourself what you can do to make it work better.

Take your worst problem and work on that first. Yours is heat.

Things aren't working right with how you put it together. So let's take a look at the math.

14" x 42.5" x 34" = around 12 cubic feet of air.

Do the math again. If your S&P is pulling 100 cfm (cubic feet per minute) then you are pulling the air right out way too fast. Damn plants are gonna die.........lol......no......maybe....hehe

So in 1 minute you're clearing out that box more than 8 times. Damn things can't get air!! rofl

Even with 50 cfm you clear the air in that box more than 4 times per minute.

So stand back and think about how you can do it. Go smoke a bowl and come back to the front of your box. Look at the box. See the box in all it's unnatural glory. Be the air filling that box............making it cool.

Now feel yourself filling up that box with yourself. CMON YOU CAN DO IT!! You are airrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, swirrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrling around and arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrround

fuck I'm dizzy


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## JordanTheGreat (Feb 13, 2009)

Hotwired said:


> Now feel yourself filling up that box with yourself. CMON YOU CAN DO IT!! You are airrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, swirrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrling around and arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrround
> 
> fuck I'm dizzy


......word


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## 7th1der (Feb 13, 2009)

Hotwired said:


> NP bro
> 
> Always stand back, away from what you are working on, and ask yourself what you can do to make it work better.
> 
> ...


I put the PC fan at the intake hole and the temps are around 83. Improvement, but I would like for them to be lower than that. Lowered the light and reflector to be somewhat parallel to the mouth of the exhaust. Hope this makes it a little cooler. *fingers crossed*


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## JordanTheGreat (Feb 13, 2009)

im pretty sure that you need to break up and circulate the difftemp pockets within the tent...with such a powerful exhaust for the area, any cool intake air is making a bee line to the exhaust. take temps from two places in the cab, like right next to your hood and at the canopy. if they are the same then there aint much more you can do besides AC. i have to blow my intake around a LOT for uniform temps top to bottom


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## lexpinllacs (Feb 13, 2009)

Same question here.. I have 2 x 1000W lights connected in line I was wondering if 1 - :S&P TD Series Inline Fan. Integrated Mounting Bracket Included. Usually ships within 1-2 Days. For 6 inch round duct - 293/218 cfm (high/low). *1 to 4: $127.00* - would be enoughfor both bulbs or should i buy two*.
*


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## specialkayme (Feb 13, 2009)

I don't really have much experience with cooling 100W lights, so take my advice with a grain of salt. But, I use a 150 cfm fan to cool a 400W light and it works just nicely.

If cooling a 100W light is twice as hard as a 400W light, I would recommend getting two fans instead of one. Again, I don't really have any experience with this though, so perhaps someone else with more experience would like to chime in.


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## JordanTheGreat (Feb 13, 2009)

if you were just using it for the lights with no scrubber then it should work, i have it pulling thru the open end of the hood (with a 1000W hortilux)for no drag, then pushing thru a 6in canfilter at the end... works like a champ, but right now my intake air is dumbass cold maybe low to mid sixties, these fans are the truth tho


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## CaptainCanabis (Feb 13, 2009)

Can i use that fan as a stand alone fan or will I have to connect those ducts in order for it to work?

The purpose of this fan is to hide the smell correct?


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## JordanTheGreat (Feb 13, 2009)

well...yes...and no


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## CaptainCanabis (Feb 13, 2009)

so i need the ducts then?


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## JordanTheGreat (Feb 13, 2009)

depends on how you wanna use it


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## 7th1der (Feb 13, 2009)

Well, I think it may be back to the drawing board for me! I planned on trouble shooting some more but it looks like I may have to save the HPS for when I get more space. If I wanted to try the set up below, *what kind of tubes should I use?*







*Thanks in advance!*



​


----------



## Hotwired (Feb 13, 2009)

7th1der said:


> Well, I think it may be back to the drawing board for me! I planned on trouble shooting some more but it looks like I may have to save the HPS for when I get more space. If I wanted to try the set up below, *what kind of tubes should I use?*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You give up too easily. A cooltube should be perfect for that box.

If I had that box this is what I would do:

You have the 4" fan correct? If so:

Cut two 4" holes on the top. One near each end of the box. If you cant cut the top, cut the sides near the top. Stick the S&P on one end with the exhaust side facing upwards. 

Hang the cooltube in the middle of the box very tight to the ceiling. Run 4" duct from either side of the cooltube to the holes you made in the box.

Now when you turn the fan on it will suck the nice 75 - 78 degree room temps right thru the light. 

IMPORTANT:
If you are using a 600 watt you will need at minimum 200 cfm to cool the light by itself. You will need at least 150 cfm for the 400 watt.

On to the the passive intake and one more exhaust. Use that pc fan to pull/push air into the box. You will need 2 more holes for this to work exactly the way you want it............UNDER 80

If you cant make the 4 holes I don't know what else to tell ya. They do sell saw blades that cut steel easily.


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## 7th1der (Feb 14, 2009)

Hotwired said:


> You give up too easily. A cooltube should be perfect for that box.
> 
> If I had that box this is what I would do:
> 
> ...



I have the 5 inch fan. I do have that "DIY Cool Tube" back up plan just in case my bat wing plan didn't work. It's like 5am EST here and I been up for a couple hours fucking around with the cool tube. I did come up with a couple possibilities and I am putting them to work now. Will keep you posted. *Thanks again for the help!*


----------



## bobharvey (Feb 14, 2009)

7th1der said:


> Well, I think it may be back to the drawing board for me! I planned on trouble shooting some more but it looks like I may have to save the HPS for when I get more space.​


Hey 7th1der. I'm using a 150w HPS in a cabinet that has a total of 6 cubic feet of space. 

get a hid. it'll be totally worth it.


----------



## 7th1der (Feb 14, 2009)

bobharvey said:


> Hey 7th1der. I'm using a 150w HPS in a cabinet that has a total of 6 cubic feet of space.
> 
> get a hid. it'll be totally worth it.



Dude, I been trynna figure out how to cool a 400w HPS for the past 3 days. lol


----------



## 7th1der (Feb 14, 2009)

I moved a few things around and the temps are still at 83.  It doesn't feel like 83 though. I think Imma get another hygrometer this week just to be sure. *What do you guys think?* I mounted the tube to the ceiling on hooks.









​


----------



## Hotwired (Feb 14, 2009)

83 isn't bad at all. You said the temp outside the box is around 78 so that's the best you can do overall. But you can get it around 80 if you changed it slightly.

If it were up to me I would remove the S&P from inside the box. Make a hole on that same side right above where the S&P was. I would then place the S&P right in the hole........ right smack on top of the hole. Then connect to cooltube.

Now the fan is OUT of the box (fan makes heat bro) and cools the light by itself. Then all you need is a small fan pulling air out of the (yes you would need one more small hole) box and open up the passive intake. You will be at 80.


----------



## 7th1der (Feb 14, 2009)

Hotwired said:


> 83 isn't bad at all. You said the temp outside the box is around 78 so that's the best you can do overall. But you can get it around 80 if you changed it slightly.
> 
> If it were up to me I would remove the S&P from inside the box. Make a hole on that same side right above where the S&P was. I would then place the S&P right in the hole........ right smack on top of the hole. Then connect to cooltube.
> 
> Now the fan is OUT of the box (fan makes heat bro) and cools the light by itself. Then all you need is a small fan pulling air out of the (yes you would need one more small hole) box and open up the passive intake. You will be at 80.



Okay, so 83 it is! lol I am waiting for my panda film to come in and take care of the light leaks seeping through the door. I was trynna avoid putting any equipment outside the box. I'm in an apartment!


----------



## thedudeknows (Feb 14, 2009)

7th1der said:


> Okay, so 83 it is! lol I am waiting for my panda film to come in and take care of the light leaks seeping through the door. I was trynna avoid putting any equipment outside the box. I'm in an apartment!


I'm not an expert yet, but I think I have a couple ideas for you. Can you build an extension to the box to hide/insulate the fan housing? If you put the fan on the outside you could also pull the air through it rather than push. Maybe also consider more/larger intake paths?

83 would be too hot I think for whatever medium they're planted in, so you should probably shoot for that magic <75 and if hydro, even lower (or figure out a way to cool your tank). I don't think you can suffocate the plants by drawing too much air through the box. As long as air is leaving the box, it is also entering through any crack/hole/duct it can. It's not cleared, it's exchanged.

If you have a 4" duct eventually leaving the box (~13"^2 area), I think you should have equal/larger surface area for air to enter the box, and you should then have equalized intake/exhaust pressure. Regardless of the air exchange rate, there will always be the same volume of air flowing through the box. So if you drill 17 or so 1/2" holes through which air can pass freely, you should be good.

The air is never lacking in the box unless you are able to create a vacuum in there. Have you tried to see if the door is stuck closed when the fan is on?

Again I'm not an expert but these are some things I'd try out. GL.


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## 7th1der (Feb 15, 2009)

thedudeknows said:


> I'm not an expert yet, but I think I have a couple ideas for you. Can you build an extension to the box to hide/insulate the fan housing? If you put the fan on the outside you could also pull the air through it rather than push. Maybe also consider more/larger intake paths?
> 
> 83 would be too hot I think for whatever medium they're planted in, so you should probably shoot for that magic <75 and if hydro, even lower (or figure out a way to cool your tank). I don't think you can suffocate the plants by drawing too much air through the box. As long as air is leaving the box, it is also entering through any crack/hole/duct it can. It's not cleared, it's exchanged.
> 
> ...



Yeah, the doors were facuum'd shut with the set ups I had when the fan was on the other side of the cab. I have a hole at the top over the fan that the cords were fed through which might be taking away from some of this pressure. I have some panda film coming this week that I will use to create a wall behind the doors for light leaks , which I am sure is taking awy from some of that pressure as well. *Thanks again for the input!*


----------



## CaptainCanabis (Feb 15, 2009)

JordanTheGreat said:


> depends on how you wanna use it


How could i use it without the ducts? What would be the purpose?


----------



## JordanTheGreat (Feb 15, 2009)

you could use it as a multipass scrubber within a closed environment that is CO2 enriched environment with a seperate exhaust. or you could mount it directly into the hood of a cab...there are definately a couple few ways to fuck wit one without ducting, just haven't had to yet...too much planning


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## uptosumpn (Feb 15, 2009)

hey does anyone know which fan is better for quietest sound, (sones) and cooling/venting 2 connected inline 430watt hps lights via Radiant 6 a/c reflectors? the td-150 or the 6"windtunnel?? and which one would clear/clean the air more effeicently in a 20sf area,(4'high x 6.5'wide x 4'deep?) (40-50plants in 6.5"x13"x7" grow bags) can 33 or can 50? Please Help Guys!


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## imburne (Feb 16, 2009)

nice link.. bookmarked thank you.


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## 7th1der (Feb 17, 2009)

Temps are where they are supposed to be now. I want to attached a store bought scrubber to the fan. *Should the flange on the scrubber be 5 inches or 6 inches?*









​


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## uptosumpn (Feb 17, 2009)

6" if it's the td-150



7th1der said:


> Temps are where they are supposed to be now. I want to attached a store bought scrubber to the fan. *Should the flange on the scrubber be 5 inches or 6 inches?*​


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## 7th1der (Feb 17, 2009)

uptosumpn said:


> 6&quot; if it's the td-150


 Okay! Any recommendations on a scrubber? I want to get the Elf but its only 4" and the Goblin is 6" but it seems big.


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## thedudeknows (Feb 17, 2009)

Nice went with the external mount  Lookin good.


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## uptosumpn (Feb 18, 2009)

try a can 33 filter



7th1der said:


> Okay! Any recommendations on a scrubber? I want to get the Elf but its only 4" and the Goblin is 6" but it seems big.


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## specialkayme (Feb 18, 2009)

7th1der said:


> Okay! Any recommendations on a scrubber? I want to get the Elf but its only 4" and the Goblin is 6" but it seems big.


You could really go with either one. Get the 4" Elf if you think space is an issue, or the 6" Goblin if you want to be able to use it for longer or to cover more plants. Either way, you would need a reducer.


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## uptosumpn (Feb 18, 2009)

anyone know which fan is better for quietest sound, (sones) and cooling/venting 2 connected inline 430watt hps lights via Radiant 6 a/c reflectors? the td-150 or the 6"windtunnel?? and which one would clear/clean the air more effeicently in a 24sf area,(4'high x 6.5'wide x 4'deep?) (40-50plants in 6.5"x13"x7" grow bags) can 33 or can 50? Please Help Guys!


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## Hotwired (Feb 18, 2009)

I have not used the windtunnel so I could not answer this question. I could, however, give you my opinion.

I like the S&P very much. It can fit just about anywhere and they are quite strong for their size. But if you have the space and you want something ULTRA quiet then I would go with the Panasonic Whisperquiet.

The 6" 350cfm model would do you fine. They are very bulky and heavy so they need to be placed in a good spot but quiet as anything I've ever heard. Not as strong as the S&P but an excellent choice for pulling air thru a short duct run doing the lights ONLY. Very stealthy and can run 24/7 for months on end.

You have 104 cubic feet of space in that box. So you can go for 75 to 100 cfm thru a Can 33 using a TD-125.


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## thedudeknows (Feb 19, 2009)

Hey Hotwired, great info there. I looked into those Panasonics and they are perfect for what I need, ultra quiet. I'm looking at the FV-20NLF1 because I'm going to have about 10' of 6" ducting (straight line with 1 90-deg bend). The inlet for this ducting will be from the main grow room, while the air will flow through the lights hanging in a sealed flower box, and the outlet will be at the room window. This should be a nice room cooling bonus.

Anyhow if anyone else is looking for these fans they are cheap at this site http://www.wamhomecenter.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=0&idproduct=5051


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## uptosumpn (Feb 19, 2009)

Thanks for the great advice, but I dont wanna go with anything that big or heavy...YET! (future use) I guess what I'm trying to say then is I need a the quietest, most powerful fan for my set-up...So since I'll be growing maube 40-50 lowryder,(it's gonna be STANK!) you suggested using the TD-125? I know that has the correct CFM for my cabinet but will that effectivly work?? quick re-cap and updated version of set-up......Cabinet will be laying on it's side!(more floor space, 6.5') gonna use 2 430hps via radiant 6 reflectors connected together in-line to a fan exausting heat..<TD-150>??recieving end of reflector will be open, allowing air in cabinet to be sucked out...do you think the td-150 can suck/handle all that heat? and where I'm still un-decided, for all those plants,(40-50) is which "other" fan to use to clean the air effectively and quietly???? Will the TD-150 with a can-33 filter work for this cabinet and all those plants?? orwould I need a bigger fan,(TD-200) & a bigger filter,(can-50)? also, intake will be through 4" ducting via A/C....Help!



Hotwired said:


> I have not used the windtunnel so I could not answer this question. I could, however, give you my opinion.
> 
> I like the S&P very much. It can fit just about anywhere and they are quite strong for their size. But if you have the space and you want something ULTRA quiet then I would go with the Panasonic Whisperquiet.
> 
> ...


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## t(o.0t) (Feb 19, 2009)

im running a 1000w hps, for about 20-25 plants, in a space thats 3ft wide, 9ft long and 8ft high, which fan do u thik i would need to keep the space cool. (im rerouting the av vent from a spare room directly into the space as well.


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## specialkayme (Feb 20, 2009)

t(o.0t) said:


> im running a 1000w hps, for about 20-25 plants, in a space thats 3ft wide, 9ft long and 8ft high, which fan do u thik i would need to keep the space cool. (im rerouting the av vent from a spare room directly into the space as well.


Check out the FAQ's. They will show you how to do the calculations for CFMs.


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## t(o.0t) (Feb 20, 2009)

argh i hate doin math... lol


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## specialkayme (Feb 20, 2009)

t(o.0t) said:


> argh i hate doin math... lol


Well, no one here is willing to do the dirty work for you.


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## Douche Nozzle (Mar 10, 2009)

I just bought the td100. I have dial-up so I wasn't able to go through all of these pages so I may have a few questions that may have been addressed. I have 2 400w lights. 1 MH and 1HPS. Is it better off putting in a y connector and pulling through both veg and flowering areas or use it for just the flowering. I already have a fan pulling through the mh hood so it really isn't needed on that side. The flowering side is about 48 cu/ft total and the light hood is just a reflector and not set up for cool tube. I planned on just running duct into the chamber and hope that is enough. I will drill some holes in the floor to pull fresh cool air up from the basement past the plants, past the light and up through the ceiling into the attic. I know this is long and rambling but any info would be great. Thanks.


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## Skunk Baxter (Mar 10, 2009)

Douche Nozzle said:


> Is it better off putting in a y connector and pulling through both veg and flowering areas or use it for just the flowering.


Better for what? Odor control for both chambers? I'm not sure what problem you're trying to solve here.


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## Douche Nozzle (Mar 10, 2009)

Strictly for temp control. I exhaust into my attic so odor really isn't a problem. I am just wondering if one 4" dryer duct is gonna make a shit load of suction noise and be overkill for 1 light. With no fan now and the door open it gets up to 88 degrees so I needed exhaust.


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## robert 14617 (Mar 11, 2009)

this little jewel is 28.00 at home depot look under fan thermostat..and i believe the TD100 can be run on a rheostat...


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## Douche Nozzle (Mar 11, 2009)

Yup. thats probably what I'll need.


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## uptosumpn (Mar 13, 2009)

hey, is that the temp settings in the middle? to small to see..but if it is this may be what i need to contol temp..i would use it on a portable A/C unit to keep temps optimum in grow tent in my 10'x25' garage



robert 14617 said:


> this little jewel is 28.00 at home depot look under fan thermostat..and i believe the TD100 can be run on a rheostat...


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## CannabisJesus (Mar 19, 2009)

uptosumpn said:


> hey, is that the temp settings in the middle? to small to see..but if it is this may be what i need to contol temp..i would use it on a portable A/C unit to keep temps optimum in grow tent in my 10'x25' garage


I'm gonna use the td-100 to vent a small cab with 150w hps. I live in a cold climate (Norway). My cab is 25"x25"x60".

Which maximum capacity should my carbon filter have?
Probably gonna use sound insulated ducting too, so
I'm worried about the airflow. 

Even though the cfm rating for varius filters says e.g. 100cfm max, they will still have different pressure loss(?) and it's so difficult to find any info about this for the varius small filters.

As a rule, will a filter with 2kg carbon (10" long) cause
more pressure loss than a filter with 2kg karbon (18" long) ?


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## Mr.Rutherford (Mar 24, 2009)

can these be mounted without the ends/reducers if mounting in a tight space?

or can one end without the reducer be mounted straight up against the end of a vented reflector?

would a td 100x be enough to exhaust a 400 hps in 32cu feet space with a filter?


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## Douche Nozzle (Mar 28, 2009)

I am a little disappointed at the strength of the td-100 I bought. I enclosed the light hood for my 400w hps light and ran about 10' of 4" dryer duct up to the attic. My space is about 48 cu/ft. I run the fan and the light with the door closed and it still reaches over 90f. I was using a cheap $5 fan that I rigged up and it was about the same. What is the issue? I have it wired up right and the duct is as straight as possible. I may have to get a booster fan also. But I figured for the money I shouldn't need one.


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## LoudBlunts (Mar 28, 2009)

its all about setup. bends curls all kinda shit

how are you using the fan? 

pictures are worth 1000 words!


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## Douche Nozzle (Mar 28, 2009)

The fan is pulling from the very end of the duct. I'll try to straighten the duct as much as possible but I was expecting a little more suction from it. Even when I first wired it up and tried it without anything on it yet I was surprised that it didn't have as much as I thought it would.


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## LoudBlunts (Mar 28, 2009)

wait wait wait

is this fan for your light?

or the main room exhaust?


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## Douche Nozzle (Mar 28, 2009)

For the light.


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## Douche Nozzle (Mar 28, 2009)

These are the pics. I have dial up so it takes forever. Above the cieling it goes straight to the fan.


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## LoudBlunts (Mar 28, 2009)

where exactly is the fan?

that may be your problem

should be closer to the light, imho


and also.... that light reflector isnt fully coolable


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## BigBudBalls (Mar 28, 2009)

uptosumpn said:


> hey, is that the temp settings in the middle? to small to see..but if it is this may be what i need to contol temp..i would use it on a portable A/C unit to keep temps optimum in grow tent in my 10'x25' garage


And it would release all its smoke. Its not rated for the loads an AC would toss on it. Its *just* a fan controler.


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## LoudBlunts (Mar 28, 2009)

question 1..... does that reflector have any glass on it? if not i dont think it will be an effective cooling hood


question 2.... do you care about odor? ifso your unsealed light will give you odor problems


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## Douche Nozzle (Mar 28, 2009)

I used a piece of glass that I had and it was perfect fit. I then cut a hole in the end of the hood and taped in the duct. Then I removed the other end of the hood for the air intake. Odor is not an issue. I used aluminum duct tape for all the seams and the duct. I used to work as a ductwork installer so I have a little knoledge of this kind of thing but was just wondering. Maybe I'll move the fan to inside the closet and cut it into duct next to the light. I'll try it in the morning.


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## LoudBlunts (Mar 28, 2009)

keep me posted. you may not necessary have to have the fan inside the tent perse.... the one for my light isnt. its to the right of the tent


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## JordanTheGreat (Mar 30, 2009)

same here, i got mine (td-150)sittin oustide my tent, it cools the hood and maintains negative pressure in the tent while pushing through a carbon scrubber. i like these fans


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## Mr.Rutherford (Apr 1, 2009)

using a TD series fan, 2 questions.

do you use them to push or pull?

carbon filter before the reflector (inside the cab) or after the fan, outside the cab?


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## Douche Nozzle (Apr 1, 2009)

I moved my fan from in the attic to inside my closet and the temp is settled at about 81-82. Not as low as I would like but It has had no ill effects on the plants so I'll manage. I'll make a true cool tube setup soon and that should do the trick.


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## LoudBlunts (Apr 1, 2009)

good to hear man


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## born2killspam (Apr 1, 2009)

> And it would release all its smoke. Its not rated for the loads an AC would toss on it. Its *just* a fan controler.


Man I'll never stop loving that.. Its even better than 'If it ain't broke, fix it till it is..'
You could use that to flip a relay driving the AC, if you can get one big enough.. If its 120V it should be easy enough to salvage most of whats needed from a broken space heater or whatever.. Then again, if you're willing to whip out the soldering iron you really wouldn't need that fan controller anyway.. Thermistor circuits are pretty simple, and all over the net..


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## Skunk Baxter (Apr 1, 2009)

BigBudBalls said:


> And it would release all its smoke.


Ah, yes. The magic smoke. Once the magic smoke escapes, it will never work again. Just basic science!


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## BigBudBalls (Apr 2, 2009)

Skunk Baxter said:


> Ah, yes. The magic smoke. Once the magic smoke escapes, it will never work again. Just basic science!


I have search all over the net high and low, but still can't find those "smoke re installation kits"


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## Skunk Baxter (Apr 2, 2009)

I think that's because - being magic smoke and all - it only works in whatever appliance it originally came in. I figure that must be the way the spell works. If you try to put different smoke into a device that's lost its magic smoke, the new smoke will not have the proper magic. It's the only explanation that makes sense to me!


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## born2killspam (Apr 2, 2009)

Are you living in the dark ages?? The smoke is more like fuel.. The device is kind of like a gas/propane tank.. If the smoke gets heated it expands.. If it expands to a critical point, the device ruptures, and can never contain smoke to power itself again..
Stone me for heresy if you must, but that is the scientific fact of it..
Magic smoke.. What an idiot..


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## kailiwela44 (Apr 5, 2009)

I plan to purchase the TD150. I'll be growing in a mills cab 20x30x70 with a 250 hps planning to use the same fan for a future 400w cool tube upgrade. 
1. How many of the 8x8 inch light tight louvers will i need to allow good passive intake and keep negative pressure? When i do the math i only need one, but i don't know the physics when it comes to intake air flow restrictions. After viewing some of the layouts the fan will be outside the box pushing into a filter.
2. Does anyone use a variac instead of a speed controller? i've read that some speed controllers make the motor hum. I don't necessarily need a variac if there is a speed controller which won't burn or damage the motor.


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## BigBudBalls (Apr 5, 2009)

kailiwela44 said:


> 2. Does anyone use a variac instead of a speed controller? i've read that some speed controllers make the motor hum. I don't necessarily need a variac if there is a speed controller which won't burn or damage the motor.


Well, unless the motor was designed for variable speed, any controler will stress a motor. The standard for variable speed (not a 2 or 3 speed motor) is a variable frequency drive, aka:VFD. they screw with the freq of the AC sine wave to change the speed. and typically, if not all output 3 phase to the motor. (I have motor and drive here. The drive takes single 120 and makes the 3 phase to drive the motor) This is for AC motors. DC motors are a LOT easier to control speed.


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## born2killspam (Apr 5, 2009)

I'll second BBB where he warns about speed controlling electric motors! Its dangerous and its 'louder' to run common electric motors at voltages other than what they're built for.. The only decent way to do it is with a pulse width modulator.. This gives the fan the voltage it wants, but not full time.. Its the equivalent of turning it on/off really quickly on whatever duty-cyle you choose..


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## BigBudBalls (Apr 5, 2009)

born2killspam said:


> I'll second BBB where he warns about speed controlling electric motors! Its dangerous and its 'louder' to run common electric motors at voltages other than what they're built for.. The only decent way to do it is with a pulse width modulator.. This gives the fan the voltage it wants, but not full time.. Its the equivalent of turning it on/off really quickly on whatever duty-cyle you choose..


Even a PWM with zerocross switching on a standard AC fan motor (inductive loads) is wrong. Its fine for resistive loads.


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## kailiwela44 (Apr 6, 2009)

Okay, that was a lot of techy stuff letting me know to hook up the slower speed. Thanks guys!

kailiwela44


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## puffmadizm (Apr 13, 2009)

Mr.Rutherford said:


> using a TD series fan, 2 questions.
> 
> do you use them to push or pull?
> 
> carbon filter before the reflector (inside the cab) or after the fan, outside the cab?


my friend has the 150 hooked up outside his cab but hidden,he pulls the air thru his cab(flower) and pushes it thru a homeade scrubber,he leaves it on the high setting,no controller,293 cfm..was kinda loud,so the scrubber acts as a silencer as well,he bought more cfm then he needed,lost some on the scrubber,so it worked out well for him,go bigger,then quiet it,rather have too much cfm and insulate it or push it to quiet it


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## Relaxed (Apr 17, 2009)

Check me off on this set up before purchasing materials please. This thread is worth money folks! I have read every page! You&#8217;re all bad ass! I am learning so much!
Concerned with set up location of can filter, fan (pull or push) and pulling open air from room thru open side of light exhaust. Was considering 2 Ys for light, flower and veg area but have yet to see anyone do that? I am going to use insulated duct material so I am planning on not using insulated clasps (overkill?) to save money with the insulated duct may not be a need for sound proofing the clasp?
I am in the south so heat will be an issue in summer of the attic
closet size 8 x 8 X 3&#8217; (split in half for flower /veg. Via tarp)
Set up air pulled out of room?
Can-filter 33​ Ceiling 6&#8221; hole to Attic================​TD 150 fan soler & Palau​6 inch Y​ Duct 6&#8221; Duct 6&#8221; 
 Air cooled hps 400w (open end for flower room air pull extract) veg. Area


Bottom of room corner for house a/c air entering room
4 inch hole from house for cool a/c air entering room via wall hole
4 inch duct​4 or 6&#8221; inline duct booster fan (own these already)​Y 4 or 6&#8221;​One end for flower area One end to veg. Area​​Suggestions please? Need to order in a few days&#8230;&#8230;..​


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## KillHit (Apr 19, 2009)

I think i might use this! thanks.. help first???


The 6" TD-150.... 218-293cfm
since its so quiet, and powerful.. I am thinking I can use it to filter the box aswell as cool the bulb in my cooltube. What do you think if I mount this fan to the top of the 4'x4'x2.5' (33cubic ft) box in my closet, connected by ductiing to the 400w hps cooltube that will run horizontally along the top inside of the box?

as for intake.. would it be cool if I put two small fans on the bottom of the box, drawing cooler air in at a slower speed, creating a vacuum effect. sounds right to me.. what about you guys?


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## BigBudBalls (Apr 20, 2009)

Keep in mind, if you split the ducting, the flow will go with the path of least resistance. So a little dampening might be needed. Just food for thought.

My overall feelings is toss the big fan on cooling the light. If using a scrubber/filter then that needs a big fan too. 

I've read that pulling air from the room through the light into a scrubber/filter isn't the hot set up. Not sue why, but a temp logger can prove/disprove that.



KillHit said:


> I think i might use this! thanks.. help first???
> 
> 
> The 6" TD-150.... 218-293cfm
> ...


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## KillHit (Apr 20, 2009)

BigBudBalls said:


> Keep in mind, if you split the ducting, the flow will go with the path of least resistance. So a little dampening might be needed. Just food for thought.
> 
> My overall feelings is toss the big fan on cooling the light. If using a scrubber/filter then that needs a big fan too.
> 
> I've read that pulling air from the room through the light into a scrubber/filter isn't the hot set up. Not sue why, but a temp logger can prove/disprove that.


the ducting wont be split..

here is what I mean..


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## KillHit (Apr 20, 2009)

KillHit said:


> the ducting wont be split..
> 
> here is what I mean..


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## born2killspam (Apr 20, 2009)

Sending hot grow-box air out the filter is going to reduce its effectiveness.. When stinky things heat up they stink more right??IMO a cool-tube requires a dedicated fan, and should be fully isolated from the plants.. And if you can figure a way to eliminate that 90° corner where the duct turns toward the ceiling, you'll increase air-flow quite a bit..


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## KillHit (Apr 20, 2009)

lol it will be rounded.. i couldnt figure out how to do it on the drawing.

if these fans are that good i believe it should be sufficient. 293 cfm ventilating that size space is more than enough, even when attatched to a cool tube. ive seen plenty of cool these tubes with far less.


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## KillHit (Apr 20, 2009)

ohh, i see what your saying.


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## born2killspam (Apr 20, 2009)

If you can possibly set it up as a straight through you'd be better off.. I'm not saying you don't have enough power to do it as you're planning, but noise, and flow could still be improved..
Here is a nice little outline of the design of a wind-tunnel.. I know you're not exactly trying to build a wind tunnel, but its interesting and informative..
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&ct=res&cd=6&url=http://www.runet.edu/~chem-web/Physics/images/nathan-tatman-thesis.pdf&ei=_bPsSaCiEKjqswOpnYHjAQ&usg=AFQjCNG1XzH2WdlVI6P3lpBvZyY-Zo2x5w&sig2=16ftaLQFc12bwoqhxr8JIA


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## MyGTO2007 (Apr 25, 2009)

Has anybody found a fan switch that works, and if one works which one is it


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## born2killspam (Apr 25, 2009)

Get a harem of island girls with palm leaves.. Best option by far..


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## BigBudBalls (Apr 25, 2009)

MyGTO2007 said:


> Has anybody found a fan switch that works, and if one works which one is it


DPDT with center off. (SPDT would work too, with center off also)


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## MyGTO2007 (Apr 25, 2009)

I meant Fan Speed control, 
BBB, where do i get one DPDT,OR SPDT
who makes it


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## BigBudBalls (Apr 25, 2009)

MyGTO2007 said:


> I meant Fan Speed control,
> BBB, where do i get one DPDT,OR SPDT
> who makes it


DPDT is double pole double throw. A switch that controls 2 lines (wires), and can divert it in 2 different paths (center off means it has 3 positions, and center position is off)

SPDT is single pole double throw. Same as above but with only one line controlled

Lowes/HD just might carry them.


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## Grow.T (Apr 25, 2009)

for the people that have these' fans, are they as quiet as the advertising suggests? 

for the 100 model(highest RPm) it says less then 25 DB which is like a computer fan...as for the 100x 125 150 4 5and 6 inch fans says there barly over 33 Db with less rpms then the first.. im not sure how fans all diffrent sizes moving diffrent air are rated the same i also thought bigger fan + lower rpms = less sound  would just like alittle clarification from someone who has one or knows something about this subject because i know some of these inline fans sound like jets


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## BigBudBalls (Apr 25, 2009)

Grow.T said:


> for the people that have these' fans, are they as quiet as the advertising suggests?
> 
> for the 100 model(highest RPm) it says less then 25 DB which is like a computer fan...as for the 100x 125 150 4 5and 6 inch fans says there barly over 33 Db with less rpms then the first.. im not sure how fans all diffrent sizes moving diffrent air are rated the same i also thought bigger fan + lower rpms = less sound  would just like alittle clarification from someone who has one or knows something about this subject because i know some of these inline fans sound like jets


I haven't measured the dB (might) but its not all that quiet (I used the slow speed) But I could have mounted it better too. But maybe I'm too picky.


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## Relaxed (Apr 25, 2009)

I am looking at the 150 model. My guess is it's all relative when the other models sound like a 747 is landing in your closet.....


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## Grow.T (Apr 25, 2009)

bigbud : which model do you have?

relaxed : well yea but i was looking at more of the fact sheet since i had no opinions..the 150 is rated at 33 db..which is reasonably loud but compared to other fans ex: vortex which is rated at almost 50 db for the same air flow... thats about 
100 x diffrece between the fans asuming the information isnt compleat bs and assuming im interpreting it correctly 

at the moment im deciding if i want to start growing again... and a quieter fan and a lower heat light will be primary concearns... considering the space i would be using would be fairly small and in a poor spot so im looking into these fans which have very good reviews from what ive seen.... and into led lights cuz they look cool


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## MyGTO2007 (Apr 26, 2009)

BigBudBalls said:


> DPDT is double pole double throw. A switch that controls 2 lines (wires), and can divert it in 2 different paths (center off means it has 3 positions, and center position is off)
> 
> SPDT is single pole double throw. Same as above but with only one line controlled
> 
> Lowes/HD just might carry them.


i dont quite know what it still is though
Is that what i look for is a DPDT switch,


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## BigBudBalls (Apr 26, 2009)

MyGTO2007 said:


> i dont quite know what it still is though
> Is that what i look for is a DPDT switch,


Yes, go look at switches, they will be marked, SPST, SPDT, DPST, DPDT.

Find one with a amperage rating above what the fan draws.

or just wire it up so one speed and be done with it.


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## trolldom (May 3, 2009)

Hey all, 

Sorry to bring back a thread that's been stagnant for a week, but after reading it all I'd really appreciate some advice regarding these fans. I have a stealth grow cab that's 2.1sqft and roughly 10 cubed feet of volume (small i know). My question is which model would be best suited for my box? I'll be planning on passive intake since the back of the cab is only that thin cardboard material that i stapled on and a few drilled out holes on the bottom. 

S&P fans:
4" TD100 - (135/100 cfm) or the 5" TD125 - (197/149 cfm) 

I have a nearly 5in diameter cooltube for my 250w MH/HPS. I plan on mounting the fan on the inside of my cab and have it blow thru the cooltube and out the exhaust port since they're only rated at 104 degrees f. The cabinet will be exhausting into my 55sq.ft closet. Would the said suggested fan also be able to pull air thru a DIY carbon scrubber? I have never messed with any kind of ventilation scenario so this is all new to me. 

Criticism is very welcome !!! 

Thanks in advance 

and fwiw, i only plan on having a max of two plants.


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## born2killspam (May 3, 2009)

Keep that exhaust as high as possible in the cab, and keep the ducting as straight as possible..
Your plan isn't the best though.. A cooltube should have its own ventilation, and be isolated from plant air.. Exhausting past the bulb will increase odour volatility, and you should be pushing cooler air past it anyways for heat transfer..
Lastly, <200cfm will get reduced to pretty much nothing it you tack a decent filter on there..


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## TakingBongRips (May 6, 2009)

So after reading this thread I believe that these are the fans to go with! So here's my set up. For the moment I'm going to have a 10x7x7 room, which I plan to have 1 600 watt on running but with another hood attached for when switch into flowering mode will have 2 600 watts going. Could I get the TD-200 and be fine running a Y line for exhausting the hood air out of the room, as well as the other line to take the hot air out of the top of the room? I'm going to have to put a carbon filter on the end to filter out the smell.


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## Hotwired (May 7, 2009)

The 200 is very powerful and should handle the job well.

It is not stealthy but it is a bit quieter than an 8" Vortex.


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## Relaxed (May 7, 2009)

Thought my thread might recieve better info. from the experts in this thread since the s and P fan is a major issue here...150 or maybe 200 maybe 100 & 150? I don't know but I see "that's not the best venting approach a lot and that's what I want....The best approach please help...I want to pull the trigger soon... and other then the 4 and 6 inch duct fans all needs purchasing....

Researching it appears I will have to have 3 ceiling holes for venting? The intake and exit for cool tube as well as one for the carbon filter. Soon the southern heat will come and pulling +100% heat might be an issue for thru the air cooled hps? At the bottom of closet entry air hole from a/c room as well. I was hoping for only to cut 2 holes in the room but my research is not showing it.
What do you guys do for this issue?
Can someone comment please before I start cutting holes in the walls. Here is what I want to go with....

- size room total veg/flower- 8 x 8 x 2 closet

- 400 watt air cooled flower/HO t5 cfl veg.

- S and P TD150 inline fan low noise for carbon filter can 33. 
- duct fans 4" for room air entering flower and veg area using a y piece.
- duct fan 6" for air cooling the hps.
- to be determined fan for veg. part of room exit.

I am a do it first time right guy pondering this for a while so comments appeciated.

Was hoping to keep low noise and few room holes as a goal? Thanks


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## tommysalami (May 7, 2009)

i don't have time to read through 50 pages so could someone recommend a good carbon filter to use with the td-150 6" fan? Should I just go to the local shop and pick up a can 33?


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## MyGTO2007 (Jun 1, 2009)

yeah these fans work good, but if your goting to put ducting and filters on them, go to the next bigger fan, the 100x fan is worthless, i now have a 6'' exhaust and a 6'' intake, and my room is 6.4 x 7.4 finished diamentions


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## billdo (Nov 12, 2009)

Hey guys,
First off, great thread. I have found it to be very informative.

That said, I have a question for the group:

I have a 48x48x24 inch cabinet. I have a 400w HPS in there in a cooled hood. I currently have two separate noisy-ass axial fans. Computer-style.

By other peoples' system of figuring these things... it would seem that i only need 11cfm or so. I am thinking that i need more because of the HPS being in such a small space.

*I was thinking about going with the S&P TD-100 4" fan, and then using a splitter and having that fan both cool the light and the carbon scrubber.*

Any thoughts on this matter?


THX,
BILLDO


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## billdo (Nov 14, 2009)

Does anyone care to opine on this?


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## glyphen (Mar 6, 2010)

billdo said:


> *I was thinking about going with the S&P TD-100 4" fan, and then using a splitter and having that fan both cool the light and the carbon scrubber.*
> 
> Any thoughts on this matter?
> 
> ...


 




billdo said:


> Does anyone care to opine on this?


 
Wont work, I tried it. The open end that doesnt go to the scrubber allows the fan to breathe. In other words, it doesnt create enough pressure in the ducting to pull on the scrubber since the air has an easier route through the tube. 

Hope this helps.

Think about it like this. If your straw has a hole in it, you cant suck fluid through it right? Its because the hole allows the vacuum to escape. 
Same applies to the ducting between the fan and the filter. Filter creates resistance, so the fan creates pressure between the fan and the filter. Add another route for the air to move, and the fan doesnt need to create pressure to pull air throught the filer, the vacuum is broken from the open end of the cooltube. 

I have a cooltube and against other readers suggestions I run mine like this:

Filter>Ducting>intake of fan>ducting on exhaust side of fan>cooltube>ducting>exhast vent. 

They say you shouldnt push air through the cooltube, however I dont have any issues doing it. And I believe the heat from the bulb, sucking through the fan could create an added heat in the fan on a long term basis. Im straight on the extra heat in my fan. 

Thats how I run everything on 1 fan. Hope that helps...


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## billdo (Mar 8, 2010)

Thanks for the response.

I am now using a td100x (in a 24x36x60 tent) right now like this
scrubber>light>fan>out

it is keeping daytime temps at 82º. I am stoked.


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## Sice (Oct 5, 2010)

Just bought one

hoping to add a carbon sack to the end.... like a pillow over the exhaust..

TD100X for $88 shipped .... not bad. I hope it pulls good on my grow box


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## zizou21 (Nov 2, 2010)

Yo glad I found this thread before I purchased my stuff. 

I planned to grow in a DR80, just 2 plants w/ 250W bulbs and a air cooled reflector. I'm looking for the quietest setup possible; Would the TD-150 have enough power to suck all the air through the carbon filter?

I also had my eye on the Panasonic Whisperline FV-20NLF1
http://www.homecenter.com/ProductDetails.asp?SID=130493

Does anyone know which is more quiet, or overall would be better for my setup?


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## Meuhmeuh (Nov 29, 2011)

Hi there,

I got a TD 350 S&P fan, wich is not referenced in this topic. The specifications are not on the official website, I only know it is a 350m^3/h.
What would the best carbon scrubber for this fan (I got a cooltube with a 70 cm duct on it).

Thanks !

Edit : I have finally chosen this one :
http://waytogrow.net/store/product/630/CAN-2600-Carbon-Filter/
Seems to be ok.


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## mick3025 (Nov 30, 2011)

I've just ordered the TD200 Silent series which are being released in the US tomorrow. $275 w/ shipping, but runs 75% quieter than the equivelent Vortex fan. Combo'ing this with a Mountain Air filter and should be set!

Stoked these fans are available now, they may be a bit more expensive, but stealth is key for me and this should do the trick!


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## southfloridasean (Oct 4, 2012)

Yoyo yo.......Im back y'all. Hope everyone is well. Been an exceptionally long time.


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