# Guide to Hydrogen Peroxide in hydroponics systems.



## Hydroneer (Mar 14, 2010)

I found this pretty easily using Google, but I thought I would share the info. If it has been done already I apologize.

This is originally from http://www.jasons-indoor-guide-to-organic-and-hydroponics-gardening.com/using-hydrogen-peroxide.html

There are no doubts about the benefits of using hydrogen peroxide properly in a hydroponics system. This becomes especially true if your nutrient reservoir is kept *above 72 degrees*. Warm water holds less dissolved oxygen, and therefore *encourages the growth* of more viruses, fungi, and anaerobic bacteria. Using hydrogen peroxide adds oxygen to you water and cleans the water of pathogens. Benefits include healthier root systems, increased nutrient uptake, thicker stems, and bigger leaves.

 One expert claims it should be used on all *soil gardens* as well as in hydroponics sytems. Knowing as much as I do about beneficial fungus and micro-organisms and the benefits they provide to living plants, *I am shy in taking this advice*. However, when this first line of defense fails and plants become sick I often resort to using hydrogen peroxide treatments on my soil grown plants.


 The chemical formula for hydrogen peroxide is H2O2. You may notice it is simply water with an extra oxygen atom. In fact, as hydrogen peroxide *breaks down* in a solution the result is oxygen and water. Its application helps deliver oxygen to over watered plant roots and helps to sterilize the growing media by *killing harmful* anaerobic (not oxygen compatible) *bacteria and pathogens* that cause disease. This includes bacterial wilt, pythium fungi, fusarium fungi, and others. 

*Using 3% Hydrogen Peroxide
In your Hydroponics Garden*

 





I  *avoid using* hydrogen peroxide you commonly find at drug stores. This is because such low percentage (3%) solutions are unstable, and *chemicals are added* to the peroxide to keep it from breaking down before it can be used. I did a little research because I did not know what chemicals were used for this, or if the plants uptake these chemicals, or if there was a health risk associated with any of these stabilizing chemicals.

Hydrogen peroxide is usually stabilized with *acetanilide*. Acetanilide is a synthetic compound that was first used for its fever reduction and pain killing properties in the late Nineteenth Century. For many years it was utilized as an alternative to aspirin to treat various ailments, but large scale medical use stopped when the *toxic side effects* of consuming acetanilide became apparent. This was enough to convince me to use 35% hydrogen peroxide instead.



*Using 35% Hydrogen Peroxide
In your Hydroponics Garden*

 






Firstly, 35% peroxide is *caustic* and should be treated with the same caution as a strong acid. 35% strength hydrogen peroxide should be *readily available* at any quality hydroponics supply shop. The stronger concentrations do not use the added stabilizers.

The *recommended dosage* is to add 2-3 ml to each gallon of water, however, I use 5 ml per gallon and have never had any problems. At every nutrient change treat your fresh water using hydrogen peroxide. The general idea is to let the hydroponics system *circulate* the hydrogen peroxide solution for about a *half hour* to let the peroxide work against pathogens and to let the solution stabilize before adding your nutrients.


 The *beneficial effects* of using hydrogen peroxide last about 4 days. There are some gardeners who add a little peroxide to their nutrient reservoirs every 5 days in between nutrient changes. If you decide to do this, stick to the guidelines and *always make sure* your solution is thoroughly mixed before exposing your plants roots to it. Another option is to top off your nutrient reservoir with peroxide treated water whenever it is low.


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## IrishDoc (Mar 14, 2010)

Quality, Straight forward information. THANKS


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## Michael Phelps (Mar 14, 2010)

Word. Im thinking of switching from Hygrozyme to H202. It says 35% in that post, but ive heard people say the 50% grade is more effecient, Anybody know?


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## Hydroneer (Mar 14, 2010)

It would require you to use less but I just heard it can be used to make bombs. So they will take down your info which is a little shady. I might just go for 12% or something and use more of it.


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## Someguy15 (Mar 14, 2010)

35% food grade works great, but a tad expensive @ $15 a quart... no name recording. Check your local health food store.

I'm moving away from h2o2 and attempting to replace it with hygrozyme. I like beneficial bacteria and if your using ANY organic nutrients you should not be using h2o2. Now if your doing pure chem ferts, and going for a sterilized system, h2o2 is the way to go.


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## EgoPrime (Mar 14, 2010)

I use 29% H202 and have been adding about 4 tablespoons for 20 gallons every 3 days. Its $10 per liter from grow store.


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## Hydroneer (Mar 15, 2010)

Why no H2O2 with organics? I heard hygrozyme builds up the bacterias immunity and eventually your using more and more of it to control bacteria. H2O2 doesn't build up superbacteria.


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## Michael Phelps (Mar 15, 2010)

Someguy15 said:


> 35% food grade works great, but a tad expensive @ $15 a quart... no name recording. Check your local health food store.
> 
> I'm moving away from h2o2 and attempting to replace it with hygrozyme. I like beneficial bacteria and if your using ANY organic nutrients you should not be using h2o2. Now if your doing pure chem ferts, and going for a sterilized system, h2o2 is the way to go.


See for me hygrozyme works well, the thing is though my roots are still slightly brown and i feel like they could be in better shape if i used h202 instead. Im Using General Hydroponics lucus formula so i think i would be fine with h202.


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## Michael Phelps (Mar 15, 2010)

Hydroneer said:


> Why no H2O2 with organics? I heard hygrozyme builds up the bacterias immunity and eventually your using more and more of it to control bacteria. H2O2 doesn't build up superbacteria.


Ya know this could be true, Cause originally my roots were pretty clean, slowly they have got kinda brown, not slimy at all, but just kinda fucked up. Ive constantly been using the same amount, maybe this is the reason its slowly gotten worse.


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## Hydroneer (Mar 16, 2010)

Yeah, maybe what you could do is alternate. Use H2O2 to clean out the system every few cycles and start fresh. I also heard of people using bleach to basically chlorinate and do something similar to H2O2 but personally I would be terrified to bleach my plants!


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## Michael Phelps (Mar 16, 2010)

Hydroneer said:


> Yeah, maybe what you could do is alternate. Use H2O2 to clean out the system every few cycles and start fresh. I also heard of people using bleach to basically chlorinate and do something similar to H2O2 but personally I would be terrified to bleach my plants!


Ya that sounds like it would be a good idea! Ive heard people say that on this site to, but im right with ya that just sounds like a bad idea.


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## Shanus (Mar 19, 2010)

I used 35% h2o2 in some plants that had major soil rot and compaction issues. I think I mixed it up at about 10Tbs per gallon at 3%. Yup, strong as hell. It actually fizzled in the soil. I saw no bad things happen from my plants, and my little gnat problem is nearly gone. The soil LOOKS like its aerated a tad too. Who knows, but from what I've read, its bad in organics bcuz it kills the good bacteria. However, Im using earth juice, and I figured what the hell, its time for a flush anyhow, and went gung ho. I may do one last h202 flush before I let my babies dry for end week. I am going to be using it in my hydrosetup for sure. Probably add a little bit to the weekly flush. I have also started using about 1T per gallon of 3% in tap water to help kill the bacteria, while I wait for the chlorine to dissapate. Then after the h202 is nearly gone, I add my EJ and begin the 48hr stone aerate. They seem to luv it so far. Maybe its all for nothing, but i Like the idea of a little excess oxygen in the water for cleanup. Of course. read up...opinions vary and I'm not a chemist or botanist.


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## Hydroneer (Mar 22, 2010)

Sounds legit. You did mix it pretty strong but if thats a flush thats fine. I'll use weaker concentrations for daily watering and replenish it every few days. I had red algae last flush, and this time I smell the same mold I smelled on my clothes in my closet so it seems I keep getting different contaminants lol. Ill be getting the H2O2 pretty soon.


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## Hydroneer (Mar 27, 2010)

Alright folks, I just got my 35% H2O2 and did about 2-3 ml per gallon of water like recommended by the guide I found (and it seems to be the only 35% guide around).... The plants started wilting within an hour, so I flushed them with lots of fresh water... I am starting to think he meant DILUTE the H2O2 to 3% then use 2-3ml per gallon. I hope you guys don't have the same results I did. If I just killed my babies I will be very sad =(


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## Hydroneer (Mar 27, 2010)

Ok the plants are perked up again, I think its safe. I only let the H2O2 sit for about 15 minutes before watering so perhaps it was too caustic and the oxygen had not been released yet. I will refill my reservoir and try again with much less H2O2 and let it sit for 30 as suggested.


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## jayjaytuner (Mar 27, 2010)

[how much should i use for soil application...im having drainage problems with my soil, and having trouble keeping the plants from being overwatered....


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## Shanus (Mar 29, 2010)

Ummm.. overwatered= Wait longer and they weigh less before watering.

I have been using about 1 tablespoon of 3% peroxide in my tap water as I wait 3-4 days for chlorine to dissapate. I bought 35% and diluted it, so dont quote me on exacts. When I blasted my soil with about 1Tbs of 35% per gallon, it fizzled the soil, killed some gnats, and as it fizzled it actually seemed to aerate the soil. However, my plants were nearing harvest and VERY mature. 

Hydroneer may be having issues in hydro use, but for soil, I think
_*1TBS or less per gallon of 3% every other water (not when using nutes), serves a viable purpose*_.

anyone else have opinions or proof?


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## Earlymorninghigh (Mar 30, 2010)

I just started using 3% about a month ago in my DWC set-up. Noticed a huge difference in root development. They stayed nice and white and always smelled really fresh. With all the talk about nutes and lights, H2O2 definitely deserves more consideration from people. My only recommendation for Hydro is to not mix organic with it. I'm not a chemist or botanist either, but the 3% works just fine for my 6 gallon res. I add 10 ml per gallon when I mix my nutes, and whenever I top off. A liter of the stuff at Wal-mart is only $1, well worth the investment.


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## fatman7574 (Mar 30, 2010)

Chlorine is cheaper and safer and it is easily tested with a simple Hach Colorimeter you can buy on ebay for about $25 to $50. The testing reagent costs about $20 for 100 tests. For treatment you dose to 2 ppm and maintain 2 ppm for 7 days, then maintain at 0.5 ppm for preventative measures after that. It only takes testing for a 5 or 6 days to find out how quickly your system out gases the chlorine. 4.5 ppm is the EPA allowable level for tap water. Don't hear stories of tap water killing plants do you. There are many thousands of people growing mj with tap water with 2 to 4.5 ppm of chlorine and they do not age it or neutralize the chlorine. Both H2O2 and chlorine are oxidizers, however H2O2 is a stronger oxidizer so more dangerous. H2O2 offfers no residual disinfection. Its disinfection qualities are immediatte. The H2O2 not immediattely uses as an oxidizer immediattely turns to DO and it does no further sisinfecting after that point. Chlorine depending on te, mperature and the amount of aeration continues tp provide residual chlorine for dissinfection until it is outgassed. About 24 hours. The safe way to use chlorine is to add it to the 2 ppm level, let it drop to 0.5 ppm and dose back to 1.0 ppm and dose everytime it drops below 0.5 ppm. Most commercial greenhouses use chlorine at levels of about 4.5 ppm injected into there actually hydroponic feed lines just before their spray heads.

No oxidizers should be used with organic fertilizers. With organics your stuck with hygrozyme and other chicken manure based enzyme solutions. Yes Hygrozyme is simply the leachatte from composted chicken manure.


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## Shanus (Mar 30, 2010)

So fatman. Can i learn from you that perhaps using tap water immediately after adding nutes, ph issues aside, will be a benefit since the chlorine will act as h202 would, only more stable? I have been using tap water only, and usually when i flush w/o letting the chlorine dissapate, i dont notice it killing my babies. Of course, i use organics in soil, so Im not able to just use h202 or chlorine in my soil grows. Thanks for the info.

Perhaps using the h202 during hydro nute change, for a quick clean, then relying on the chlorine in the tap water to help for the first few days of a new nute tank? Personally on my first hydro grow, im only going to use the h202 before i let the water sit for 48hrs. Then perhaps I'll use some during a clean water flush. Im using AN, so im skeptical about deviating from their recipe for my first hydro. Hopefully keeping a clean tank(s) will head off the problem of mold and bacteria before it starts. 

Anyone else have any info on the hydroponic use of h202?


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## fatman7574 (Mar 31, 2010)

U.S. water treatment plants are reuired to injected enough chlorine into their water just before disr tribation to assure that after the part of the chlorine used to oxidized pathogen or that form organic componds is subtrated that there is still at least 2.0 ppm for 20 minutes. The water must then at at laest 0.5 ppm residual chlorine at its furthest delivery point. As chlorine and some organic carbons can combine to form some bad *ss Trihalomethanes and Haloacetic Acids now controlled by the EPA, the water treatment plants try to use only as much chlorine as needed so usually the only add about 4 ppm and this usually means about 2 ppm at your water tap. The acids and Trihalomethanes are not detrimental to plants nor are the taken up by plants. The problem is that ingestion, contact or breathing the fumes of the chemicals can cause bladder cancer and reproductive problems. As organic nutrients contain many, many carbon chain compoundsthey readily form large concentrations of the Trihalomethanes and Haloacetic Acids. concentration much higher than allowed for bathing, cooking and drinking. Needless to say aeration of such nutrient water would mean high concentrations of these chemicals in grow rooms when using chlorine with organic nutrients.

Nuff about that.

H2O2 just destroys through oxidation many orgai nic componds when used with organic nutrients. b Plus as mentioned before it offers no residual effect to keep your system pathogen free between doses as does chlorine.

If your water has been treated at a water treatment palnt just use it as it comes from the tap as far as the chlorine is concerned. You will still have to deal with the issues of water quality however. The problem is that most people use a RO filter to remove all the carbon and other minerals. With a RO filter you must firts use carbon to remove r the chlorine as it causes rapid deteriation of the thin Film Membarnes use in the RO membarne. This means you need to at least restore the residual level of chlorine to h keep your already pathogen free system free of pathogens. If you system is not free of pathogens y you need to use at least some 2 ppm or higher water run through the system without plants to kill off all pathogens. Then dump that water and mix up nutrients and add enough chlorine to obtain a 0.5 ppm level of chlorine. This should keep your system pathogen free as long as you maintain a level of at least 0.5 ppm of chlorine. Some people talk crap about all the chlorine but they do not consider the fact that typical tap water left to aerate for 24 hours usually still contains at least 0.5 ppm of chlorine and thousands of growers use such water daily for their plants. Were talking a few drops per gallon, or about 1/9 th the chlorine concentration that commercial hot house use to grow tomatos, cucumbers, peppers and lettuce etc.

So is the level of tap water chlorine safe for mixing chemical nutrients for mj. Yes. But its residual disinfection abilities will only last a few days at best. Chloramine lasts about two to three times as long.


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## Shanus (Mar 31, 2010)

Holy crap. So, dont breathe the aerated organic nute water! I know the water here is very clean aside from excess chlorine. Since it doesnt seem to be a detriment, perhaps i'll just ignorethe chlorine, and it'll be a non-issue. I aint getting filtered water for a damn WEED! Hell, i drink the shit outta the tap. Thanks for the science of water tho. Little too deep for me just yet.

Still just curious as to the validity of using peroxide for a flush. Or perhaps you would suggest a chloramine flush in the hydor tank?


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## fatman7574 (Apr 1, 2010)

I would simply suggest if you use organic nutrients that everytime you change out your reservoir that you drain irt pour in enough pH balanced water to be able to curculate it and then add enough chlorine to it to obtain a level of between about 2 and 2.5 ppm, or use H2O2 at recommend dosage. Run it through your system for an hour or so. Dump it and then use your new nutrients as usual. The small amount of chlorine used in tap water is not going to cause a hugh amount of triahlomethanes or halacetic caids if you are not also adding additional chlorine regularly. Your mj plants will loose a few stored unmetabolized fertilizers to the water through osmossis due to the low water EC but very little in just an hour or two. Yet unmetabolized nutrient ions can travel either directions through the roots. The plant fluids having a higher EC will give up mineral ions to the low EC water. Osmosis.


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## Ferredoxin (Jan 28, 2011)

Back from the dead....

http://www.angelfire.com/cantina/fourtwenty/articles/h2o2.htm

I would go by this...


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## fandango (Feb 23, 2013)

Earlymorninghigh said:


> I just started using 3% about a month ago in my DWC set-up. Noticed a huge difference in root development. They stayed nice and white and always smelled really fresh. With all the talk about nutes and lights, H2O2 definitely deserves more consideration from people. My only recommendation for Hydro is to not mix organic with it. I'm not a chemist or botanist either, but the 3% works just fine for my 6 gallon res. I add 10 ml per gallon when I mix my nutes, and whenever I top off. A liter of the stuff at Wal-mart is only $1, well worth the investment.


If it worked for you...I am going to give it a go too!
Bye the way...where did all these members go off to?


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## Illegalbreather (Jan 4, 2014)

Thank you so much for this information!!!!


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## Vasdef (Feb 24, 2022)

Hydroneer said:


> Alright folks, I just got my 35% H2O2 and did about 2-3 ml per gallon of water like recommended by the guide I found (and it seems to be the only 35% guide around).... The plants started wilting within an hour, so I flushed them with lots of fresh water... I am starting to think he meant DILUTE the H2O2 to 3% then use 2-3ml per gallon. I hope you guys don't have the same results I did. If I just killed my babies I will be very sad =(


I believe its 11 to one, water & 35% ht02


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## Vasdef (Feb 24, 2022)

Vasdef said:


> I believe its 11 to one, water & 35% ht02


Hope everyone's around, its only been 8 years, ha.


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## plumsmooth (Aug 9, 2022)

I occasionally switch from bennies to h202 if I plant appears to be having root trouble at my slightly elevated reservoir temperatures. I use 1 TBL per gallon of the approx 30% h202. This might be a little higher than the general recommended amount? I then continue to top off the reservoir always adding this tbl per about 1-1.5 gallons. The plant finished incredible it is about 4-5 days from haverst I believe. I have been running this for over 2 weeks. I just realized I am going to order 100PPM h202 Test Strips as I believe the important question is is any h202 building up in the system or is it holding fairly steady around 100PPM? BTW 15 Mil (tbl) per Gallon 3785 ML is 252 division so 30% h202 is 30,000 PPM divided by 252 = 119 PPM
Maybe i could order the next level up but I was going to get the 100 PPM h202 test strips? BEtween degradation of the opened bottle and the evaporation/breakdown etc. I would be very surprised if my solution is going above or staying above 100PPM. Thanks for listening


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## plumsmooth (Aug 9, 2022)

Vasdef said:


> I believe its 11 to one, water & 35% ht02


I use 15 Mil per gallon of 30 % no Problem


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