# How to Introduce co2 to my Grow



## hellraizer30 (Sep 20, 2011)

so im wondering how to introduce co2 to my tents! simple well no so, im venting through scrubbers 24/7
and thats not going to allow the ppms to build up




so that leads me to how? can I make this posable.
a idea I had was to put my scrubber fans on a timmer a couple times a day to shut them off and give
the girls a blast of co2! now is this worth doing? is short blasts of co2 going to be something worth doing?
and if so how many time during lights on do I blast them?


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## DrFever (Sep 20, 2011)

is it worth doin hell yea it is you need somehow to completly close off your vents not sure what size venting you have but heres a idea go to rona or homedepot look for a part that has a flap in it so you can close off your set up put it into somewhere in your line 
as for knowing how much to blast you need a sniffer to to sniff how much ppm your giving them
to give you a idea how fast co2 works heres a pic and in 7 days later there looking like this lol so Co2 yea baby 3 " clone to over 12 " in 7 days`


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## hellraizer30 (Sep 20, 2011)

DrFever said:


> is it worth doin hell yea it is you need somehow to completly close off your vents not sure what size venting you have but heres a idea go to rona or homedepot look for a part that has a flap in it so you can close off your set up put it into somewhere in your line
> as for knowing how much to blast you need a sniffer to to sniff how much ppm your giving them
> to give you a idea how fast co2 works heres a pic and in 7 days later there looking like this lol so Co2 yea baby 3 " clone to over 12 " in 7 days`


awsome DR il get a fuzzylogic ppm meter, so how long do I shut down the fans? or how long does it take for your plants
to get what they need, heat is a issue so shuting down the scrubber/cooling fan can be a issue if off to long. also what the
sweet spot ppm level?


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## DrFever (Sep 20, 2011)

what i normally do is 1 hr before lights on i vent room and bring in fresh air this allowing temps to drop and co2 that was made from plants to get out of there set my co2 to discharge 1 hr when lights go on temps are a issue as i hit as high as 90 i set exhaust kick back on @ 90 so i shoot off 1500 ppm and fan normally stays off for like 3 hrs before my high temp marker is reached and exhaust fans kick on automaticaly


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## hellraizer30 (Sep 20, 2011)

when you exhaust fans come on due you keep the co2 burner going or is it on a timer?


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## chasmtz (Sep 20, 2011)

you can also use timers to offset co2 and ventilation. You could use dampers on a passive intake for sure. The more you spend on timer/controllers, the more you get. Controlling everything, including co2 ppm, will cost hundreds. If you go to using expensive versions of co2(not home made) then i think its wise to invest in good controllers that integrate well, if not one bad ass controller.


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## hellraizer30 (Sep 20, 2011)

yah thats what im aiming at now, still some confusion as to how long plants need enritch co2


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## cannawizard (Sep 20, 2011)

hellraizer30 said:


> yah thats what im aiming at now, still some confusion as to how long plants need enritch co2


*well Hellz, grab a microscope or 150x zoomy thingy lolz, cause if the stomatas are open, then c02 is being used by the plant.. so 24/7(12hrs on expo) for full maximum monster colafication 


--if not, try the 1hr per blast expo time


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## hellraizer30 (Sep 20, 2011)

thanks wiz...............


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## cannawizard (Sep 20, 2011)

hellraizer30 said:


> thanks wiz...............


*dont thank me, thank Google  ..yessir


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## DrFever (Sep 20, 2011)

heres my controller it does everythin but wipe my ass lol i dont like burners cause of excess of heat and possibly a chance of a fire do the bottle thing you be safer you will go to your tent and see melted remains of your tent


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## hellraizer30 (Sep 20, 2011)

that is fing sick controller who makes it?


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## careCO (Sep 23, 2011)

hellraizer30 said:


> so im wondering how to introduce co2 to my tents! simple well no so, im venting through scrubbers 24/7
> and thats not going to allow the ppms to build up
> 
> 
> ...


Just looking for answers on these same questions!! Thanks guys...


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## Kaptain Kron (Sep 24, 2011)

yep im lookin for the same answers as well, i got 3 cabs one for veg and 2 for flower, I still have to cool my light, and im hoping that once i throw the HID in there that it will stay cool enough on the fan that i wont have to ac the cab. Ug having tents sometimes is nice but its a fuckin pain in the ass when you want to run co2


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2011)

Im in the same boat too. Thousand watts in a closet gets hot pretty fast when the exhaust fan isnt running. And from what ive read its pointless to run co2 when the lights are off because the plants dont need it then. 

Do the leaves intake co2 from their tops, bottoms, or both?


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## hellraizer30 (Sep 25, 2011)

so it seems the answer is to put your intank run from outside through the lights then outside again to close the loop and make it where you dont have to shut down.
stel to would be to add a scrubber venting outside also but on a timer to shutdown at time to alow co2 levels to raise at key times!!
this seems to be the only way to avoid AC unit and a sealed room.


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## TheLastWood (Sep 25, 2011)

My timer has a 3 hr overall timer which means that it won't go longer than 3 hrs without exhausting and then refilling with co2. If the temp or humid go out of range it will exhaust and then refill with co2. 

Another option that is available, is keeping your scrubber and fans inside the room and using the air thru your hood to cool the room. This way all the air and co2 stays in the room, basically there's no exaust. Still expensive tho. If you get a chiller and a 6 or 8 inch "icebox" heat exchanger, it goes on the exhaust end of your air cooled hood and water cools the air coming out, it actually cools your room or tent.

Also with the icebox, you could have just the scrubber and the icebox in the room on their own fan, not cooling the lights, and it would blow even colder air. The lights could be on their own fan that pulls air from outside the room and exits outside the room, not interferring with co2. 

Both are methods I've considered, but I just quit running co2 instead. Too much work lol.

If moneys no issue, get an ac unit, or chiller and ice box, and if you don't get a burner then get multiple co2 tanks so you don't have to refill urs all the time.


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## hellraizer30 (Sep 27, 2011)

well ac units not a option due to the elecrical draw they pull but im thinking I got this all worked out just going to take some cash to push it through!


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## budleydoright (Sep 29, 2011)

More often than not, a well tuned ventallation system will outperform a poorly executed Co2 system. The real benefits from Co2 are realized when your system is totally dialed in and sealed from the effects of the outside.


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## jayglav7 (Oct 1, 2011)

So here's my advice, you want to be using a CGE. Controlled Grow Environment. You want your CO2 to be between 1200-1500 only during the day time, plants don't absorb CO2 at night. So your device should be on a timer to turn off when lights go off, perhaps the same timer as your lights. You are not supposed to exhaust out of the room, instead you have a carbon filter with a fan pulling the air through the filter inside of the room, and therefore scrubbing the room of all smell. If you have an air conditioner then that will be find for intaking fresh air, but the thing is you don't need fresh air if you are using CO2. So essentially your plants breath CO2, use the lights to do photosynthesis, and they turn into huge monsters. Also, you should have an exhaust fan with a dimmer switch on it to air out the room before you go into work. Safe levels to breath are below 700 or so. Normal air is 300-400..... Hope this helps!


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## hellraizer30 (Oct 2, 2011)

jayglav7 said:


> So here's my advice, you want to be using a CGE. Controlled Grow Environment. You want your CO2 to be between 1200-1500 only during the day time, plants don't absorb CO2 at night. So your device should be on a timer to turn off when lights go off, perhaps the same timer as your lights. You are not supposed to exhaust out of the room, instead you have a carbon filter with a fan pulling the air through the filter inside of the room, and therefore scrubbing the room of all smell. If you have an air conditioner then that will be find for intaking fresh air, but the thing is you don't need fresh air if you are using CO2. So essentially your plants breath CO2, use the lights to do photosynthesis, and they turn into huge monsters. Also, you should have an exhaust fan with a dimmer switch on it to air out the room before you go into work. Safe levels to breath are below 700 or so. Normal air is 300-400..... Hope this helps!


thanks jay I guess my hang up is a ac unit not a option!!


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## budleydoright (Oct 2, 2011)

If AC is out of the question, then I would imagine a dehumidifier would be as well. Both essential elements in a sealed co2 room. Just make sure you have a good steady supply of fresh air. Co2 isn't going to blow your room up if it's not done right. Which for the most part is sealed. If you just have to have it, then check out a cap air3 controller.


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## hellraizer30 (Oct 2, 2011)

well if I went ahead and added a ac unit! the room 10x14 with x6 600hps the lights are vented from outside to outside to close the loop between lights and
the room, with that said I have dehumidifier! so the big Q is how big a ac unit do I have to get???


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## Bill Wilson (Oct 2, 2011)

Use a natural gas stove for cooking and set up a fan blowing near it on the floor. Huge amounts of co2 will flood entire house 1500 average for my basement. I love how simple and cheap it is. The daily dinner and late nite snack actually fuel what gave the urge to eat in the first place....ironic? Don't yo think


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## MEGAyielder420 (Oct 31, 2011)

Great thread Hellraizer. I just picked up a co2 bottle yesterday. I was doing some research on this same topic today and found your thread. Good input guys. Thanks!


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## InsaneMJ (Dec 12, 2011)

I use a 12,000 btu portable ac unit with an exhaust on it. It can drop my 12x6 room down to 75 with 3x1000's or 70 with 2x1000's so maybe like 2 10,000 btu's and just automate them to the temp and that would be able to regulate it pretty good IMO.
-I.MJ


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