# 4 inch Tube Aero with Chiller



## Earl (Jan 3, 2009)

Here is an aero system I made using 4 inch PVC.

6 inch PVC is very expensive 
and the 4 inch saves a lot of money.

I use a Danner 1250 gph mag drive pump for the spray jets,
and a Rio 600 gph pump for the chiller/waterfall.










Here are the pics.

I started with a 10 foot joint of 4 inch PVC 
and a 18gl Sterlite tub












I used bulkhead fittings to mount the pumps outside of the rez.











With the 4 inch tube the 3.5 inch net pots won't work,
but the 2 inch with neoprene work great.







The float valve is connected to the blue tub RO rez.










and this RO rez has a small float valve 
that connects it to the RO machine

I took some cuts from a Thai cross mother 
and put them right into the neoprene 
and started spraying them 
with 200ppm AN sensiGrow @ 5.6 and 74ºf






In a few days we had lift-off.











Now I upped the nute load to 400ppm @5.6pH
and lowered the rez temp to 66º






At the next rez change I went to 600ppm
and kept it there for the rest of veg time.






















Here is the waterfall
from the chiller pump.











The lights are two 400watt HPS.
Hoping to add more.
I flipped the lights to 12/12 last week.
More pics to follow.


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## potpimp (Jan 3, 2009)

Man, another super grow op! Keep em coming Earl.


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## TOKEMASTERFLEX (Jan 3, 2009)

nice work earl....you like pvc pipe don't ya...hahahaha


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## Earl (Jan 3, 2009)

It's cheaper than dirt.
.


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## TOKEMASTERFLEX (Jan 3, 2009)

very much so....i wanna try your space shuttle....which of the two do you like better even though they are similar do you like one more than the other???


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## TOKEMASTERFLEX (Jan 3, 2009)

also can you explain a little of how much RO helps and what it does....this is one thing i don't have for my dwc.....but thinkin of which one to get


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## Earl (Jan 3, 2009)

If I would have figured out the 2 inch net pots,
the shuttle would be 4 inch PVC tubes, 
with a little more spread between them,
(I could have put them closer to the edge of each tub)
and there would be a little more room for the plants to fill out.






If you build one 
be sure and 
post a link to your show 
here in my thread.
Thanks.
.


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## potpimp (Jan 3, 2009)

and it does much better than dirt too! My unit looks pretty sparse cause I only had 6 plants sprout from the 10 beans and I yanked two of them cause they were boys AND I've cut clones from the bottom. I'm sold on PVC grows!


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## Earl (Jan 3, 2009)

If you are using rain water 
or you have a source of water that has not been underground,
then you will probly be OK.

If you live in the USA 
and get your water from a *municipal source*,
more than likely 
your water has come from a *municipal well*.

Almost all *well* water in the USA 
is unsuitable for growing 
due to the high Calcium content, 
which has been dissolved into the H2o 
for millions of years.

RO machine removes this suspended Calcium
through the use of a Membrane 
that allows H2o2 to pass through it by Osmosis
thus leaving the Calcium behind.

Suspended Calcium will bond with other micro elements, 
mostly Magnesium, 
and this will be detrimental to your grow, 
sometimes even fatal.

Purchasing an RO machine 
is the cheapest solution
to getting around the Calcium problem 
that you will always have with most USA tapwater.

Hauling bottle water is too expensive,
and too much labor.

Once you have added RO 
your grow will greatly improve,
because you will have better control over the pH 
and the micro nutrients won't be "locked out",
by bonding to the Calcium suspended in your tapwater.

If you have spent a $100 on good seeds,
it pays to have good water to grow them with.

RO is about 20¢/gl after you amortize the unit.
.


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## SOMEBEECH (Jan 3, 2009)

I think you added this just for me!!!I can get almost everthing holesale AL if you have to pay retail i can help you as you have helped me understand HOW to grow hydro the right way!IF you every need anything pertaining to A/C, pumps, pipe, chillers, etc let me know.I have passed the knowledge from you to many ppl and i believe in Karma,tuned in for the grow.And as always i learned now why RO water is so important.


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## curious.george (Jan 3, 2009)

cool system earl! Are you planning on putting several of those tubes next to each other? It seems like you would need several to fully use the space under the 400w?

Man I wish I had time to build cool systems like that.


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## flamdrags420 (Jan 3, 2009)

Hey Earl.
I have seen you around the forums. I've always had respect for your thoughts and ideas.
Very nice to see your work finally. 
Keep up the great work!
~~ Flams~~


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## Knally (Jan 4, 2009)

Been reading several of your builds on RIU. A lot of great info. Thanks. I' can't tell you how many times I've borrowed ideas or setups from your systems. 



Earl said:


> RO is about 20¢/gl after you amortize the unit.
> .


Is that GAAP?


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## Earl (Jan 4, 2009)

This is the unit I have.
I got it on ebay.
I have to change the filters for every new grow.


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## Knally (Jan 4, 2009)

Nice RO setup.

Earl, you mentioned using rain water. Is it usually ok to use it without analyzing its mineral composition? I can collect quite a bit of rain water is why I am asking. I have tested it a couple of times with a ppm reading of less than 40 and a Ph of 6.2. I grow hydro in a small diy setup so I would adjust the Ph down to around 5.6 where my girls seem to like it. I get some pretty high ppm readings using my tap water. It reads around 200 with a Ph of 7.2.


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## Earl (Jan 4, 2009)

Rainwater is some of the best water you can use.
Make sure your collection barrel is clean.

If you have meters, 
the tds should be around 600 max and 5.6 
*after you have add nutes.*

Add nutes first 
and then measure the pH.

If it is too low,
use Potassium to bring the pH up.

Barricade, Silica Blast and Potassium carbonate/hydroxide 
will all work to raise and buffer the pH.

Always add the potassium silicate to your rez _*after*_ 
you have added all the other ingredients.

Make sure you have a fast pH meter,
recently calibrated, 
and use an eye dropper 
to administer the Potassium Silicate.

Try to add just enough to bring the pH to 5.6

In my 20 gl rez 
I add about 8 or nine drops.

I usually add about 5 drops 
and then wait for my meter to stablize, 
then add a couple of more if needed.

The max dose of Barricade is 2.5ml/gl
or 25 drops per gallon.

But I almost always have the solution buffered 
before I have added anywhere near that amount.

If you do it correctly, 
you will never need to use pH down,
of course you must be using RO or rainwater.

40 tds is OK
and the pH of that small amount does not matter 
until you add nutes and bring the tds up to 400 and above.

Keep your tds between 400 and 600 and your plants will be happy.

They always have a growth spurt immediately after a nute change,
so if you want to increase the uptake of nutrients,
change your rez more often 
with low nute loads.

You can use that same amount of nutes as if you were running 1200,
while only running 600
which will increase nutrient uptake,
by changing the rez twice a week.

Of course if you don't have the light to support this amount of growth, 
then no amount of nutes will speed things up.

You need lots of light 
for the plant to need lots of nutes.

If you don't have evenly spread High Intensity Lighting 
then your plants will not benefit from the added work 
of twice weekly nute changes.
.


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## curious.george (Jan 4, 2009)

Earl said:


> Rainwater is some of the best water you can use.
> Make sure your collection barrel is clean.
> 
> If you have meters,
> ...


hu? I used to keep my nutes at 1000 but after reading al. b's thread I changed it to 1400, I thought I was on the low end. Why so low?


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## Earl (Jan 4, 2009)

Why so high ?
.


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## curious.george (Jan 4, 2009)

Earl said:


> Why so high ?
> .


See the thing is I do not necessarily know what I am doing, I have basically been guessing from what I can get from reading posts here and trial experience. I can not say for sure if the plants at 1000 are any diffrent from the 1400 ones. 
I think my story is not unlike a lot of folks. I killed some of my first grows with ph and nute burn issues. So my theory is I should use weaker concentrations, and I though I was at 1000. Then I was reading the al. b. fact and started thinking 1000 was to low. So I swithced to 1400.
Maybe I should go lower. It is so hard to tell since I never do a side by side and am aywayse making improvments.
I was not sure if you were using a low ppm because of some pecularity of your sytem, like maybe with 4" PVC you need weaker ppm. Or beause of the water chiller.

Hey I got a question for you if its ok, What exactly do you want the water chiller for? Pathogen control? You live in a hot climate? I never fully understood why people use them. What would happen if you did not have one? Does it also filter?

Sorry for the million questions but from the looks of your system it looks like I could learn a lot from you.


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## Earl (Jan 5, 2009)

curious.george said:


> See the thing is I do not necessarily know what I am doing.


Neither do I 
but I have read stuff that a lot of smart people have figured out.



curious.george said:


> I think my story is not unlike a lot of folks. I killed some of my first grows with ph and nute burn issues.


So did I.



curious.george said:


> Maybe I should go lower.


I couldn't agree more.



curious.george said:


> I was not sure if you were using a low ppm because of some pecularity of your sytem, like maybe with 4" PVC you need weaker ppm. Or beause of the water chiller.


I am using my biggest pump on the 4 inch system.
I use Low ppm to save money, and to make my plants healthier.



curious.george said:


> Hey I got a question for you if its ok, What exactly do you want the water chiller for? Pathogen control? You live in a hot climate? I never fully understood why people use them.


I use the chiller for disease control only.
It is the best insurance that your rez will stay disease free.



curious.george said:


> What would happen if you did not have one? Does it also filter?


You will have to make sure 
that your rez stays cool enough to prevent disease 
by keeping the room cool and monitoring the rez temp.
It does not have a filter, 
and requires that you purchase a pump 
and the necessary plumbing.
.


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## curious.george (Jan 5, 2009)

Thanks for all the info Earl. I guess I will go back to 1000 since it seemed to be working fine. Have you ever heard this theory that if the ppm in your res stays stable that means that the plant is using nutes and water at the same rate?


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## Earl (Jan 5, 2009)

Not all theories have proofs.

Just because the PPm changes 
doesn't really tell you which minerals 
the plant has used.

The tds should stay very close to the starting point.
.


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## bobbyboy34 (Jan 5, 2009)

awesome, subcribed to this mofo right hurr


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## curious.george (Jan 5, 2009)

Earl said:


> Not all theories have proofs.


indeed, so should I assume that in your opinion this theory is not proven.



Earl said:


> Just because the PPm changes
> doesn't really tell you which minerals
> the plant has used.


yes that is logical, if the plant uses more of one mineral than another it could get a nutrient deficiency even with high ppm. This has more to due with nutrient balance than total concentrations. I guess the more accurately the nute soup is ballanced with what the plant actually uses the lower the total concentration. 



Earl said:


> The tds should stay very close to the starting point.
> .


What is weird is mine does at 1000 or 1400, it stays that way while my 40gal reservoir goes from 40galons to 10 over a 2 week period. 

It seems the plant will use more or less nutes depending on how much they are given, I mean if you add extra N the plant will become more leafy. i have never been sure to what extent this is the total N or the mix of N to P & K.


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## curious.george (Jan 5, 2009)

So back to that system you built, are you going to construct a version 2?

What do you think of a similar system that would use a bunch of vertical tubes, with the plants growing out of end caps? 

After building this system what do you see as the pro's and con's of building this tube style aero system vs some other aero setup?


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## Earl (Jan 6, 2009)

This *is* version 2.0

I would love to see you do a tubular vert grow.

When you do, be sure an post a link here.

I am pretty happy with the design I have,
there are always couple of new ideas on the drawing board, 
but you will have to wait and see if they work out.

Right now, all engineering projects are on hold,
due to my personal economic crisis.

All resources are slated to more lighting for the existing machines,
before I venture into any new projects.

.


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## Earl (Jan 6, 2009)

I was jealous because DB had this on his thread.


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## curious.george (Jan 6, 2009)

Earl said:


> This *is* version 2.0


sorry, I was not paying attention. Its not that I actually thought you needed another version. Its just that I figured with such a cool system you must be one of those dudes that is always engineering stuff. Its like if you met a guy that built the fastest car, you might start to wounder what the next even faster one that guy might build. Or maybe you are not that way. 



Earl said:


> I would love to see you do a tubular vert grow.
> 
> 
> > I would like to see me do that too. For now I will just have to get by being jealous of your system.
> ...


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## greenearth5 (Jan 6, 2009)

thats one kick ass water bong earl


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## Earl (Jan 7, 2009)




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## Earl (Jan 8, 2009)

Since DirtBag is showing his,
I will show mine.










The last week of veg 
I ran out of AN nutes and switched to DM.

I am going try to finish this grow with DM nutes 
because I have them left over.

I'm pretty sure I have enough.

By the way,
you might notice I had to get a new meter.

The Milwaukee took a dump.

I am all Pinpoint for pH.

I'm averaging about two grows per meter,
with the purchase of two probes per grow.
( I like my meters to work fast)

I don't trust one meter.
If they disagree more than .03
I do a calibration on both.


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## Derivs (Jan 9, 2009)

My apologies for not posting that pic on yours  ... Didn't even realize you had a live one up. Certain there will be more to come.... This is so far beyond where I can go right now. Makes me want to take a wrong turn when I go to Chicago in March. 
Hope all is well.


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## mardavarot (Jan 10, 2009)

Hi Earl.
Read all yours posts, impresive m8. Look, can you teel me for flushig in hydro for last 2 weeks do you need PH water to 5.5-6.2 or just used normal tap water (7.0-7.3)
I would appreciate the help.
Regards


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## AeroKing (Jan 10, 2009)

Earl,
I've read many threads by you. Much Respect.

A couple questions that I'm hoping you can help me with:

I believe I've seen you use a couple different sprayers, can you comment on which you like the best and why?

Are the spray lines simply jambed onto the end of the mister and then shoved into the grommet to hold it in place?

Can you conceive a rough formula of # of misters to GPH for pump sizing? 

Do you have any safeguards in place to protect your op from power outages?

Aside from initial investment, do you see any other benefits of using 4"?

If money was not an issue, would you see any benefit of using the 6"? 

What's your opinion of PVC fence post for aero systems vs DWV Pipe?

Is that black polyethylene tubing? Have you ever experience kinking with it?

The adapters from your manifold - 1/2" NPT to 1/4"OD compression?

Do you still use Coco for seeds? 
Any debris in the res/misters from it?
Have any thoughts on using rockwool instead?

Sorry for so many ?s. I have several projects in the works. My next is a vertical version of your spaceship, it will probably be about mid year before I get started, and I'm really hoping you'll be around to help!
BTW, I use an aeroflo2 system. If you have any questions about it's design, I'd be happy to answer.


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## Earl (Jan 10, 2009)

AeroKing said:


> I believe I've seen you use a couple different sprayers, can you comment on which you like the best and why?


I like the green 360 spray jets.
You can get them from emrealdelectronics .com
http://www.emeraldelectronic.com/store/proddetail.cfm/ItemID/428954/CategoryID/20000/SubCatID/1851/file.htm
You can find the 6mm grommet and the black poly tubing there also.



AeroKing said:


> Are the spray lines simply jambed onto the end of the mister and then shoved into the grommet to hold it in place?





















AeroKing said:


> Can you conceive a rough formula of # of misters to GPH for pump sizing?


There is a formula, but here is the easy way.

Use a *big* mag drive pump. 

I like the danner 950, I have two.

I also have a danner 1250
and I have a Via Aqua 600 on the chiller,
and a few walmart powerheads, 
in all of my rez',
except this one,
which has the chiller pump, 
to keep things stirred up.

Hydro Ponic=water working

Place the spray jet close enough on each side of the plant,
to spray the roots on both sides.

I have the spray jets every 15 centimeters on this 4 inch tube,
and the plants are in between, 
so about 7 centimeters on each side of the plant.



AeroKing said:


> Do you have any safeguards in place to protect your op from power outages?


No.
I had a 12 day power outage last fall after hurricane Ike.

A back-up generator is high on "the list"

If you have a power outage of a few hours 
you could use batteries and a inverter.

Or you could hand spray inside the tube 
if you can reach in from both ends 
like the space shuttle.

The plant in the middle would suffer in this system,
but probly the nutrient flow though the tube 
would be enough to sutain life.

As long as your nutrients are cool 
and have enough DO 
you could hand feed every hour or so 
and keep them going,
until you got stoned and forgot.

Use an egg timer.

I have left them for three hours with the pumps off,
with absolutely no affect.

Late in the grow 
I do let them go to wilt,
and it takes a few hours, 
depending on the outside air temp, 
and the humidity and lighting.




AeroKing said:


> Aside from initial investment, do you see any other benefits of using 4"?
> If money was not an issue, would you see any benefit of using the 6"?
> What's your opinion of PVC fence post for aero systems vs DWV Pipe?


I like the tube because it is cheaper.

That is the only reason.

If they were all the same price 
I would use the 4 inch pvc tube
because it is easy to handle.

Square might be just as good,
I've never used it,
so I can't really judge it,
but I don't see any obvious drawbacks.



AeroKing said:


> Is that black polyethylene tubing?


Yes


AeroKing said:


> Have you ever experience kinking with it?


 No



AeroKing said:


> The adapters from your manifold - 1/2" NPT to 1/4"OD compression?


Here is a link to the male Tee.
You have to purchase ten for $46
Male Branch Tee



AeroKing said:


> Do you still use Coco for seeds?


 Yes


AeroKing said:


> Any debris in the res/misters from it?


No


AeroKing said:


> Have any thoughts on using rockwool instead?


No thoughts cause I'm pretty stoned,
but really, 
I've never used it,
and my desire is to get away from all media
and just use neoprene.




AeroKing said:


> . I have several projects in the works. My next is a vertical version of your spaceship, it will probably be about mid year before I get started, and I'm really hoping you'll be around to help!
> BTW, I use an aeroflo2 system. If you have any questions about it's design, I'd be happy to answer.


No questions about the aeroflo2,
but be sure and post a link to your Vertical Space Shuttle here.
Hurry up.
.


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## Earl (Jan 10, 2009)

I flushed today.
Foliar feed DM folitech flower.

Here are the pics.


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## lilmafia513 (Jan 11, 2009)

dude i think i could actually learn aero on this thread!!! Nice stuff!!!


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## Earl (Jan 11, 2009)

It's not rocket science.
.


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## lilmafia513 (Jan 11, 2009)

been a soil grower, it always seemed easier. 
But i like the speed of the aero grow, and the results!
Never understood cuz it confused me with hydro, and couldn't tell the two apart.
But thanks man, for the break down for me! +rep to ya!


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## Earl (Jan 11, 2009)

I'm afraid of soil.

How can I control the pH ?


With this I just watch the meter 
and use an eye dropper to keep it where I want it.

I'm sure if you have good soil
you don't need to do anything but add good water
when your plant is thirsty.

I've grown outdoors but always got ripped by bugs, critters, or people.

And I didn't want to bring that in my house.

I like hydro cause its clean and easy.

It is expensive to get really set up,
but I'll get it back eventually.

Take the plunge
the waters fine.
.


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## lilmafia513 (Jan 11, 2009)

Earl said:


> I'm afraid of soil.
> 
> How can I control the pH ?
> 
> ...


It's so true...i know man!!
My garden has those damn gnats! I think they came from a bag of soil i had bought, and left in the room. And dirt makes a mess anyway,oh and add water to it to get a muddy mess!LOL!!

It scares me because things can go wrong and die faster than soil. I also don't bring it in my home, so i can't tend to it daily like i would need to being new at it and all.
I'll get there one day when i'm ready for it, i need the practice a little more anyway!


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## AeroKing (Jan 12, 2009)

Thanks, Earl for the information

So far as the pump ratio,
I guess what I was really asking is:

What would you consider a minimum GPH for say 6 misters or 10 misters?

How many misters do you think your largest pump would handle?


I'd also like to note that probably the biggest beneficial difference between yours and the Aeroflo2 is that the aeroflo uses an adjustable water level system in the growtubes.
It's simply a big grommet through the bottom of the tubes with a short piece pipe in it that you slide up and down.
To me, this is a valuable safe guard. It ensures that at very least, you will have some water available to the plants and the humidity alone will keep roots from drying out completely during short outages.
This is what reallyv scares me about a 'true aero' system. _(though i guess technically yours is a aero/nft hybrid also)._ Thats also why I really like the Rainforest system, too. It is an aero/dwc hybrid, but point being that it incorporates a safeguard(available water), that a true aero does not... ​


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## Earl (Jan 12, 2009)

I am glad you feel safe.
You will enjoy growing this way.













Thai Cross.


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## morrisgreenberg (Jan 12, 2009)

where can i find a water chiller for less than 200?


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## Earl (Jan 12, 2009)

I don't know,
but if you find one that cheap
let me know.

.


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## AeroKing (Jan 12, 2009)

Earl, been reading more and more on those misters. I've read that to create a true mist, you need to use a high pressure pump (diaphragm maybe?), and the Mag Drives won't sustain the required pressures (30psi?). Can you comment on the mist using the mag-drive pump?


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## Earl (Jan 12, 2009)

I don't use misters,

They clog.

I use spray jets.
perfect for the mag drive pump.

I don't know anything more about misters
and don't care.

If you want to go that way,
you will have to find another mentor.

I'll help all I can 
if you want to do it like me,
but if you are one of those people 
who are crazy about mist and fog,
In my opinion, and from my experience,
*you will fail.*


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## AeroKing (Jan 12, 2009)

Earl said:


> I don't use misters,
> 
> They clog.
> 
> ...


OK, I see. The term misters gets thrown around so loosely, I guess I didn't realize there was a difference.

The ones that you use, they are marketed as "misters", though - are they not? 

So I take it then that you do get a nice even, fine spray from your "spray jets"?

Don't get me wrong. Your way is far more appealing then the clogged mister heads/roots drying out... horror stories I've read about "True Aero" systems.

Just trying to work out some of the details, ya know?


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## Earl (Jan 12, 2009)

Sure .
Here is the link to emerald electronics.com

If you use these green spray jets
you won't have any problems.
 
click on the picture
.


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## AeroKing (Jan 12, 2009)

Thanks. How many of these do you think you could run off of that 1250gph? And have you used/would you recommend the 180' ones also?


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## Earl (Jan 13, 2009)

You should use the spray jet 
that fits the pattern you need, 
to cover the area you want to keep wet.

The amount of volume that gets to your spray jets,
is dependent upon the size of your plumbing.

Here are some links for you.

Engineering data 

Pump Head Loss Calculator
.


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## smppro (Jan 14, 2009)

Very nice, i was always a big fan of the shuttle, i even managed to find 3 10' pvc pipes behind a dumpster by a shop a work at. But i always wondered if 4in would work, i was going to start a little aero herb garden with 4in because it is so much cheaper and you can buy it in 2ft lengths if you need, thanks for the thread


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## Earl (Jan 14, 2009)

Take some pictures of your herb garden 
and show me how it works.

What herbs are you planning on growing ?
.


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## bobbyboy34 (Jan 15, 2009)

AeroKing said:


> Thanks. How many of these do you think you could run off of that 1250gph? And have you used/would you recommend the 180' ones also?


you don't want a pump that pwerful man, seriously its too powerful, unless you are running like 50 misters. That pump will cause a type of resistance that will both heat up your res water super quick and lower the life of the pump

i have less than 20 misters in my system and my pump is 700gph, this is too powerful

if you plan on using 20 misters, get a 400-500gph pump a three hundred might even do.....you've got to remember its gallons, and four hundred gallons an hour is a shit load of gallons, that will produce enough pressure but not too much to heat up your res water like unwated


i think thats your problem earl, try using that 600 gph for your misters and forget the chiller, if your res is not in direct light, i bet your res temp will be a significantly lower


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## Earl (Jan 15, 2009)

bobbyboy34 said:


> i think thats your problem earl, try using that 600 gph for your misters and forget the chiller, if your res is not in direct light, i bet your res temp will be a significantly lower


Thanks,
I didn't know I even had a problem.
.


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## SOMEBEECH (Jan 16, 2009)

*Earl does your chiller have a scroll are hermatic compressor? And whats the name brand on compressor ?*


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## AeroKing (Jan 16, 2009)

bobbyboy34 said:


> you don't want a pump that pwerful man, seriously its too powerful, unless you are running like 50 misters. That pump will cause a type of resistance that will both heat up your res water super quick and lower the life of the pump
> 
> i have less than 20 misters in my system and my pump is 700gph, this is too powerful
> 
> ...


Thanks a load. I'm glad you noticed my prodding for this info from earl was getting nowhere. 

I've seen on some aero systems they use a pump bypass to dial in the pressure (allow excess flow to run directly back into the reservoir).

I could see the res temp being lowered by using the pump efficiently, but if you're using HID lights inside of a small area, you'll likely still need a chiller.


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## bobbyboy34 (Jan 16, 2009)

its always good to try and get your res away from the light as far as possible, or make some type of barricade or wrap yuor res in fylon. I have a chiller and im trying my hardest to do everything i can not to use it


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## Earl (Jan 16, 2009)

SOMEBEECH said:


> *Earl does your chiller have a scroll are hermatic compressor? And whats the name brand on compressor ?*


Maybe you can make it out.
I have a hard time.






You need the titanium heat exchanger.


----------



## rocknsea (Jan 16, 2009)

Earl said:


> If you are using rain water
> or you have a source of water that has not been underground,
> then you will probly be OK.
> 
> ...


Hey Earl,

That might explain some of the problems I've been having. What is a good RO to get?


----------



## Earl (Jan 16, 2009)

Pure Water Club

This is where I got my 6 stage RO machine. 

I get my replacement filters there also.

You can check ebay and google for prices.
Deals happen.


----------



## rocknsea (Jan 16, 2009)

Earl said:


> Pure Water Club
> 
> This is where I got my 6 stage RO machine.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info


----------



## Earl (Jan 16, 2009)

Here is a homemade chiller 
looks like he uses copper that is coated.
pretty good price for 1/2 hp
chiller


----------



## Earl (Jan 16, 2009)

FACTORY DIRECT
CHILLERS






Original picture by original manufacturer. 
We have been selling and manufacturing these chillers for 5 years.
We do not sell chillers for resale 
and any chiller resold 
will not be warranted.







Reef Tank / Fish Aquarium Chiller

Description and Specifications

Brand New Custom Built Chiller

½ HP 110V Quiet and Reliable

Retail Value $2000+

Custom built to quickly and efficiently chill marine coral reef tanks. Originally built for aquaculture this chiller will bring down the temperature in any tank fast and maintain the temperature easier than any other chiller of its size.

The design is different from that of typical mass produced ½ HP chillers that use a minimal amount of coils that are just barely enough to operate properly. This custom chiller has more than enough coils to make the heat exchange fast and efficient.

Why pay 3 or 4 times as much for a chiller when this one sells for less than a ¼ HP model that will run and run using more power and taking considerably longer to cool down your tank?

This heavy duty unit will probably outlast your tank!

1/2 hp chiller

110v and only draws 4.8 amps at full load

Flow thru tube in shell heat exchanger

1'' Threaded N.T.P. water supply in/out

Oversized heat exchanger for maximum heat transfer

Protective epoxy black coat on housing to protect from any salt spray

All copper also coated with epoxy.

Size 17x12x11

The second picture is plumbed to my 500 Gallon Reef Tank and it has been working for over 5 years now.

The Heat Exchanger is made of 6061T6 Marine Grade Aluminum with PVC shell
This chiller is specifically made for salt water reef tanks
No copper touches the Salt Water
Min Flow rate is 500 GPH the MAX is 2000 GPH
Up to 400 Gallon Fish Tank
_________________________________________________________________________________________________



ALSO AVAILABLE CONTROLLER FOR CHILLER $85.00

Ranco Digital ETC Series Controller

Model ETC-111000

The Ranco ETC is a microprocessor based temperature controller suitable for switching 120Volts at up to 16Amps for heating or cooling applications making it suitable for a wide range of applications. This is a great universal controller for any application where switching 120Volts or temperatures outside that of a normal home thermostat is required. The sensor with an 8' foot cable and instructions are included with the unit. 

Specifications:

Temperature Set point Range: -30 to 220F
Differential range: 1 to 30F
Input Voltage: 120VAC, 208, 240VAC
Pilot duty: 125VA at 120/208/240VAC
Sensor: Thermistor, 2" long x 1/4"dia with 8' cable (included)
Control Ambient Temperatures
Operating: -20 to 140F
Storage: -40 to 176F
Ambient humidity: 0 to 95% RH, non-condensing
Enclosure: NEMA 1
Agency Approvals: UL listed, file E94419, Guide XAPX, CSA certified, file LR68340, class 4813 02
Relay Output Ratings - NO (NC)

120V

208/240V


----------



## onthedl0008 (Jan 16, 2009)

Earl man ur insane.. I like this.. Do u have a salt tank man?


----------



## Earl (Jan 16, 2009)

I just copied the ebay add.

No fish.

Only weed for me.
.


----------



## SOMEBEECH (Jan 17, 2009)

onthedl0008 said:


> Earl man ur insane.. I like this.. Do u have a salt tank man?


Too funny.Il pm you later Earl,if you want as i dont think you like pms it will be on Monday.Im gonna look into getting 1.


----------



## Earl (Jan 17, 2009)

I'm fine with PMs,
unless you are begging for seeds,
which I don't have,
anyway no problem.


----------



## SOMEBEECH (Jan 18, 2009)

*I have nor never will ask you for seeds,Geez.WAS looking into the chiller!!*


----------



## Earl (Jan 18, 2009)

That comment was not directed to you.
sorry.
.


----------



## Earl (Jan 18, 2009)

Flushed and nuted to 600ppm @ 5.6 this morning.












[/quote]


----------



## SOMEBEECH (Jan 20, 2009)

*I can get that pipe for 22.00 for 20 ft,i would like to make one with 4 rows do you have any advise?Are is there somewhere that you no of that maybe could explain it are a book?My thoughts are 2x600hps over the 4 rows of 5 ft runs.I might be in over my head now that i think about it,haha.*


----------



## Earl (Jan 23, 2009)

We need a million hits
http://www.k4mm.org/


----------



## lilmafia513 (Jan 23, 2009)

LOL, hit it like 15 times for ya' Earl!!!


----------



## Earl (Jan 24, 2009)

Thanks guys.

Nute change today
500ppm @5.57


----------



## alsoranmike (Jan 24, 2009)

thanks for taking the time to put up all this great info.

but can ya do something about the guy in the goofy glasses plastered all over this site in the banner ad?

tired of looking at him.

oh hell, maybe i'll just buy an ad.


----------



## Earl (Jan 24, 2009)

alsoranmike said:


> thanks for taking the time to put up all this great info.
> 
> but can ya do something about the guy in the goofy glasses plastered all over this site in the banner ad?
> 
> ...


Thats funny....
I don't even see any adds on my laptop.
Get an apple.


----------



## onthedl0008 (Jan 24, 2009)

Hey earl wondering if youd stop by my grow man..Been having some issues and would like some input bro.
https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/144924-stealth-dwc-perpetual-sog.html


----------



## Earl (Jan 24, 2009)

onthedl0008 said:


> Hey earl wondering if youd stop by my grow man..Been having some issues and would like some input bro.
> https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/144924-stealth-dwc-perpetual-sog.html


I think your doing pretty good.

Hope you get the RO

Here is my set up


This is where I got my RO machine 
and replacement filters.

http://www.purewaterclub.com/

They have the small float valve also.






I have it plumbed into a big rubbermaid tub 
with a float valve to keep it full and from running over.






I have two RO rez'.

The top one is for the space shuttle 
and the other one is for the 4 inch.

There are small float valves that will hook right up to the RO line.
















This is a 1/2 inch bulkhead fitting
under the RO rez.





It is hooked up so I can access RO 





and it Teed to feed this float valve in the nutrient rez.







I built a frame around the tub to keep it from bulging out.


----------



## morrisgreenberg (Jan 26, 2009)

SOMEBEECH said:


> *I can get that pipe for 22.00 for 20 ft,i would like to make one with 4 rows do you have any advise?Are is there somewhere that you no of that maybe could explain it are a book?My thoughts are 2x600hps over the 4 rows of 5 ft runs.I might be in over my head now that i think about it,haha.*[/qugo
> to go FAQ on RIU homepage, and look for DIY its very similar to earl's i made one aswell like this , it easy as hell


----------



## Derivs (Jan 26, 2009)

So Earl, I am watching I_nspetor Bugiganga_ (Gadget) down here and it reminds me of you. He might be able to pull a propeller out of his ass but what can he grow with PVC pipe and a pack of bubblegum.

Was wondering if you could direct me to any reliable info on growing outsoors and keeping the plant alive after. Really having trouble learning about that one.

As always hope all is well, and thanks!


----------



## Earl (Jan 26, 2009)

Sorry,
I'm an indoor grower at this time.
Maybe when it is legal.
.


----------



## Earl (Jan 30, 2009)




----------



## Earl (Feb 1, 2009)

Now I'm all swetty.













.


----------



## Earl (Feb 6, 2009)




----------



## ColdFlo (Feb 11, 2009)

Earl, I don't know if you're the first one to use neoprene holders in aero, but this does prove that 4" pvc is superior due to support. I wonder if releasing oxygen into the root zone would accomplish anything?


----------



## Earl (Feb 13, 2009)

ColdFlo said:


> Earl, I don't know if you're the first one to use neoprene holders in aero,


I am sure I am not the first to use neoprene.



ColdFlo said:


> but this does prove that 4" pvc is superior due to support


Huh ?



ColdFlo said:


> I wonder if releasing oxygen into the root zone would accomplish anything?


I think just plain air is good,
oxygen might be hazardous,
but if you try it, let me know.

I moved a 400 watt light from the space shuttle
to the 4 inch aero .












I am feeding them with Sensibloom A&B at 200ppm 
and using DM Potash Plus to adjust the pH up to 5.6
and I am adding about 10ml A&B every day, to keep the ppm at 200.
They are hungry.


----------



## Syriuslydelyrius (Feb 13, 2009)

REP++TO YOU AND MANY THANKS!.. Looking foward to seeing more results!


----------



## Earl (Feb 20, 2009)

I moved my 600 watt reflector light into a flanking position over the rez.











So I have a total of 1800 watts on it now,
I hope it is not too late.


----------



## sparat1k (Feb 20, 2009)

Those are some good lookn' Oaks you're growing there.


----------



## Syriuslydelyrius (Feb 20, 2009)

How many lumens per sq ft?


----------



## OregonMeds (Feb 20, 2009)

Earl

I like your setup and I'm thinking about a cross between it and the "Heaths flooded tube vertical" system. (Hope you have seen it because I'm asking you questions based on mixing your system and his.)

I want to do vertical but I can't spend the money heaths would have cost so I'm thinking a simple spiral of 4" smooth wall flex tubing. (food grade)

Then I think I may need to go aero with it just because with a spiral it won't have the drop which aerates the water at each level like heaths does. (waterfall effect)

Is it possible to run a single feed line inside the 4" tubing rather than many external feed lines outside like you have to cut cost? Even if that means a larger feed line like a 1/2" or more...

Or if you have any other ideas on how to best accomplish what I'm looking for with a vertical spiral.

And lastly, how do those monster trunks on those trees not just rip apart your net cups as they grow? Are you able to just saw the roots off and get back reusabe net cups and neoprene? It just looks like they'd be destroyed because they're so small but I love that, I want to use that size.


----------



## sparat1k (Feb 20, 2009)

Oregonmeds...

I was thinking of a similar build. I saw this semi-stiff tubing at the HomeDepot. I was thinking of stringing it through a 4" pipe network, then drilling into it sprayers. I dunno if it would work or not though.

Hopefully its gives you an idea. If you venture out into new waters prepare to spend a lil "research" money.

Cheers,
Spar


----------



## Earl (Feb 20, 2009)

I will be more than happy to help you build one like mine,
but if your are designing a new system
then I'm out.

Feel free to post a link to your show 
so I can check it out.


----------



## Earl (Feb 20, 2009)

Syriuslydelyrius said:


> How many lumens per sq ft?


Square feet of floor space ?

Or square feet of canopy.

I don't know....
but I want more.

How many lumens does a 1 year old, 400 watt lamp produce ?
There are three of them,
and one 600 watt in the same condition.

Maybe you can do the math,
I just know it's almost enough.
.


----------



## Syriuslydelyrius (Feb 20, 2009)

Earl said:


> Square feet of floor space ?
> 
> Or square feet of canopy.
> 
> ...


So anywhere between 200,000 and 250,000 and closer to the 200k marker if there old. I guess an answer for both figures sq of floor space and sq of canopy would be nice to know.


----------



## gohydro (Feb 20, 2009)

Hey Earl.....

Here's my newest. I used 6" PVC but currently have limited space so I used the rubber caps with hose clamps on the end. All components were selected based on longer tubes. When the time comes I can remove the endcap and couple another length of pipe. The pump is way too strong (future use) so I have a throttling bypass back to the rez and can adjust how much water is delivered to the nozzles. All piping has unions for quick change and easy breakdown. The chiller is a 1/15hp and works like a champ on the 40 gal rez. The tee in the discharge is so I can use the pump to empty 80% of the rez quickly.


----------



## gohydro (Feb 20, 2009)

You can run a piece of 1/2 pipe inside the larger tube if needed. Some people just drill small holes all down the tube instead of using nozzles. The tube gets mounted up high (right beside the pot) and sprays diagonally downward if you want to do that. The advantage to a nozzle like Earls is that he can remove them and clean them. In either case get an inline filter to keep the nozzles from clogging. 

You'd be surprised at how big a plant you can grow in a 3" netpot. They're sturdy. I've been using the same pots for years.


----------



## Earl (Feb 21, 2009)




----------



## finnbot (Feb 24, 2009)

Very nice dude, great work on this site also - gave me tons of info for my upcoming build.

Basically what im thinking of is a grow tent op. with the same principle employed by you here except using Fence Posts side by side in the tent and have the whole tent sit on top of the reservoir and pump the nutrient solution up to the sprayers and then have it drain down into the reservoir again. 

My question to you, sir, is : Would the short lengths of fence posts inhibit the root growth and therefore the plant growth?

Thanks in advance amigo.


----------



## Earl (Feb 24, 2009)

There are growers using the fence post.

Sorry that I don't have any links for you.

If you want big plants,
I would suggest long roots are better
for achieving that result.


----------



## AeroKing (Feb 25, 2009)

Fence posts? You want the stinkbud thread. You should also check out this thread of an adapted system close to what you're looking for.


----------



## finnbot (Feb 25, 2009)

Thanks for the replies, will check those threads out.

Also i have been told that the fence post system will not support my plants if i grow from seedling. The reason i have been given is that i will need to veg the plants for at least 8 weeks before putting into the flower cycle. What is your opinion on this? Sorry if im asking obvious questions but im a bit a newb at this and i dont want to commit to it before ive done all the research i can and satisfied all those niggling doubts 


Cheers once again,



Finnbot

Edit: Also just picked up a 1/4 from a dealer locally, and as usual its underweight, damp and harvested waaaaay too early. Each £40 i spend motivates me more and more to get this set up.


----------



## finnbot (Feb 25, 2009)

Also is it possible to germinate seedlings, grow them veg stage till they are around a foot tall then put them into flowering, or are the plants not mature enough by then?


----------



## Veilside420 (Feb 25, 2009)

Sweet setup man! I just finished reading everything up to this point! this is what I hope to one day setup! +rep!!!


----------



## ColdFlo (Feb 26, 2009)

Earl, what is your reasoning behind 30 mins off with 600ppm? Are you getting burn above those levels?


----------



## Earl (Feb 27, 2009)

The timer has nothing to do with the nute load.

I am running 5 on 15 off right now.

I change it.
No reason.







I added nutes this morning and the meter didn't change.
It took me a few minutes to snap
the batteries were low.
I changed the battery and find I am at 520.. Oh well.
Hope they don't burn.


----------



## ragged crushing (Feb 27, 2009)

i see u learned alot since the aero space shuttle. im a transitioning newb and ive been following ur work for about a year now but just cant post from my sk. id just like to congradulate you on ur work bro and finally have the opportunity to +rep ya. ROCK ON!


----------



## ColdFlo (Mar 3, 2009)

Earl, I was thinking that maybe with longer time off the nute solution dries on the roots thereby creating a higher ppm temporarily on the roots until the next spray. This might allow you to run low ppm level but still get the effect of a higher ppm. I mean think about all the nutes people have been flushing down the drain. If you could just do a low level of nutes, and use that; it would be more efficient(cheaper) than making a high ppm solution, and only using the top end of that ppm mixture only to throw the rest away. I dunno definitely not an expert just thinking this could be the case. Would explain nute burn at such low levels(of course I don't mix your nutes).


----------



## Earl (Mar 4, 2009)

I burned the tips of all the leaves by going to 500ppm to fast.

They were eating a lot 
and then I shoved it down their throats 
and they choked.

My bad.


----------



## Kruzty (Mar 5, 2009)

Hey Earl just stoppin in.Thats one hell of a contraption Bet that was a blast making.Nice job.Was wondering on the ppm thing.Is soil grows higher ppms than hydro?I feed next watering and I'm not sure what ppms to hit.Last feed was 870 of that f/f grow big,but adding bloom nutes this time and not sure where to put the ppms.If I went by there chart it would put me close to 1300.Just dont want to burn the crap out of them.Sorry fer the questions,just was reading your ppms and thought oh shit now what did I do.

Now back to checkin out your contraption


----------



## Earl (Mar 6, 2009)

I found spider mites and hopefully I have dealt them a blow.

It appears my infestation is stalled at the moment.

All bugs I can find are dead,
but I am still seeing eggs,
so I have to hope they won't hatch.

Here are the weekly update pics.































I am feeding my hempy buckets with 300-500ppm
and they are fine.
just be sure the pH is correct.


----------



## Kruzty (Mar 6, 2009)

Man that sucks on the mites,give'em hell.....
Thanks for the info on your ppms on the hempys.I fed mine tonight and went by what the chart said to add then checked ppms.Full strenght was only at 970 so I fed away.Dam things sure are drinking the water now.Been at 1 time every 7 days but now down to 5.Glad I checked cuz they where bone dry.
Earl I see your lights are up way more than mine.Do I need to raise mine up some??Been keeping them about 8 inches off the tops, is that to close??


----------



## Earl (Mar 6, 2009)




----------



## Kruzty (Mar 8, 2009)

Nice thanxs Earl.Looks like 8 inches is about as close as I can get with that 600.Boy it really drops off at 10" or better.
Think 3 more of the w/c's might have hermed on me and 1 other c/c is showing male balls I think. I posted some pics in me journal if ya'd like to have a peek.The 3 w/c's all have white hairs and have since week 5 but now they have these popping out.Not sure if I'm seeing what I think I'm seeing but it looks like male clusters.See what ya think cuz ya know this strain way better than me.Been 3 days since I seen these and 9 days since going 12/12 so will have to pull these soon if they're males or hermi's.Let me know what ya think.


----------



## Earl (Mar 11, 2009)

Hey crashtriple3, here are some pictures for you.
The feed line manifold from the pump is 3/4 inch.





This is the 4 way 3/4 inch
with a reducer bushing and then brass bushing to fit the 
male branch Tee.


This is the 3/4 glue x 3/8 NPT grey bushing
and the brass reducer
wih the Tee












The spray jet goes into the poly tubing.






The 6mm grommet keeps the spray jet in it's hole 
in the 4 inch tube.











These parts assure all water tight connections.
No Leaks.

Here are the links
6mm grommet, poly tubing, 360º spray jets 

Male Branch Tee package of 10 for $50


----------



## Masterofgenetics (Mar 11, 2009)

beautiful....

much love + rep


----------



## Earl (Mar 12, 2009)




----------



## lilmafia513 (Mar 12, 2009)

crazy root ball. Congrats on the trees man!


----------



## AeroKing (Mar 16, 2009)

Earl, your roots look very large and matted for an aero system. Is this just an illusion from the picture? I'm used to seeing very fine hairs in my aero systems. Do you run your sprayers on a timer?


----------



## Earl (Mar 16, 2009)

I do run a timer.
5 minutes on
30 minutes off


----------



## AeroKing (Mar 16, 2009)

Have you tried other timing combinations? Is there a reason you've chosen this timing?


----------



## Earl (Mar 16, 2009)

I have.

The objective is to get the roots in the air
without them getting too dry.

I have gone 5 hours without any spray.

I am just trying to achieve a balance between
just enough nutes and water,
and too dry.

Fine root hairs do not indicate a healthy plant.

I like the results I am getting with 5 on 30 off.

The strain of plant has a big influence on your end result.

Also the lighting.

Keeping the nute loads low 
is the best way to improve the quality of your buds.

Light determines yeild weight, not nutes.

can you tell I'm pretty stoned.....


----------



## AeroKing (Mar 16, 2009)

I get it. Thank you. I've been running 1 on 5 off but I've been thinking about extending the off time. Do you only use a 15 min on time because of the increment on your timer?


----------



## SomeGuy (Mar 16, 2009)

Bad ass earl, I'm pulling up a seat to watch and learn 

Wow. Just finished. You grow some amazing plants in Aero. I tried DWC and realized quick about having to keep the water cool. I want to try full on hydro again when I have the cash to start up right. Till then Im in the hempy buckets.  Thanks for posting such great info earl.


----------



## Packet. (Mar 16, 2009)

thats one awesome grow you did there man, great job.


----------



## Kruzty (Mar 31, 2009)

Earl how much did ya get off the 3 girls ?? Just wondering about what to expect off my 3.Prolly be about 1/2 of yours but something to set me sights on.


----------



## Syriuslydelyrius (Apr 1, 2009)

Howdy again Earl.
1500ppm? Does your meter use NaCL Conversion or the 442 Conversion? If your not sure do you know what the EC was? (arround 2.2 or at or above 3.0 milisiemens?)


----------



## Earl (Apr 1, 2009)

I didn't weigh the crop.

I have a milwaukee SM401






The numbers on the meter are from a dutchmaster grow.
I can't run that high with AN nutes.
300-400 is where I grow with AN nutes.


----------



## Packet. (Apr 1, 2009)

1200ppm that's amazing!


----------



## Syriuslydelyrius (Apr 1, 2009)

Going by PPM can be misleading though as there are 2 differant conversion factors that some meters use. Any Dutch grower I know uses EC instead of PPM.

The NaCl conversion(0.5) or the 442 conversion(0.7). I do belive that the milwaukee SM401 uses the 0.5 conversion factor. Here is where it gets confusing with PPM, You could plug a meter with the other conversion in with that milwaukie and the milwaukie will read its 1190 and the other would read arround 1428. If we were talking Electrical Conductivity instead then no matter the brand/maker of the meter they will all read the same amount of MiliSiemen.

Here is a good article it. 
http://www.hydroponics.net/learn/debate_over_ec_and_tds.asp


----------



## Syriuslydelyrius (Apr 1, 2009)

Didnt you also recently change meters earl? wonder what the old ones conversion factor was.


----------



## Kruzty (Apr 1, 2009)

Thanks earl was just wonderin. I'll not start hydro or aero untill I get me a good meter so I'm all ears on this topic. Thanks for the link I'll be checking it out.


----------



## Earl (Apr 1, 2009)

Packet. said:


> 1200ppm that's amazing!


1200 was not that good of an idea
and the plants suffered for it.




Syriuslydelyrius said:


> Going by PPM can be misleading though as there are 2 differant conversion factors that some meters use. Any Dutch grower I know uses EC instead of PPM.


You know, 
there are so many ways to measure the TDS
and in the end,
tds is just a number.

The key is to use the same meter and the same nutes
and then you will learn the numbers.

I am sticking with AN nutes for a while,
and I plan on keeping the nute load as low as I can.



Syriuslydelyrius said:


> Didnt you also recently change meters earl? wonder what the old ones conversion factor was.


No.

This is the meter I have been using for tds.

I did switch to PinPoint for my pH meters.



Kruzty said:


> Thanks earl was just wonderin. I'll not start hydro or aero untill I get me a good meter so I'm all ears on this topic. Thanks for the link I'll be checking it out.


I like this Milwaukee meter,
but if/when it dies,
I want to switch to Pinpoint tds.

My Milwaukee pH meter died twice,
so I'm giving up on them

Like I said before.
TDS meters are just numbers to help you keep from screwing up 
and you can tell if the plants are eating,
if the numbers are always moving down.

I like the numbers to move down fast.

This means I have to watch it pretty close.

Be sure and spend the bucks for a good pH meter,
because the pH will be the most important number 
and an accurate meter is essential,
along with plenty of calibration fluid,

Plan on calibrating your pH meter 
every time the rez temp changes a few degrees.

This could be every few hours 
if you don't have a chiller.

That is why I love the chiller,
only 3ºf max variation, 24/7.

DYNAMIC NATURE OF ION UPTAKE

1. Regulation at the uptake step: CaSO4-grown plants

In the 1930' and 40's Hoagland, made use of barley seedlings grown hydroponically for about 1 week in solutions containing only 0.5 mM CaSO4 to measure the uptake of K+, NO3-, and other ions. 
At a time when measurements of ion uptake were generally made without the advantage of radiotracers, 
it was necessary to optimize uptake or be satisfied with experiments that lasted for days, 
and therefore suffered from lack of sensitivity. 
Hoagland observed that growing the plants this way 
compared to growing them in full nutrient-solution, 
considerably increased the rates of absorption of all ions except Ca2+ and SO42-. 

Actually, the observation was recorded as early as 1906 by Brezeale, 
who demonstrated significant increases of nitrate, phosphate, calcium, and potassium uptake 
when these ions were removed from the media for 15 h (table 1). 

Thus, it would seem as though the plant adapts to the absence of a particular nutrient 
by increasing the capacity to absorb that particular nutrient.


----------



## Packet. (Apr 1, 2009)

Your awesome +rep for you. You know what your talking about.


----------



## wbinwv (Apr 5, 2009)

Awesome stuff Earl. I can't wait to launch in a few days!!!!


----------



## Earl (Apr 5, 2009)

wbinwv said:


> Awesome stuff Earl. I can't wait to launch in a few days!!!!


Please post a link to your grow
on this thread.
.


----------



## wbinwv (Apr 5, 2009)

Earl said:


> Please post a link to your grow
> on this thread.
> .


Sure thing.

https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/175368-4-pvc-single-res-aero.html


----------



## Earl (Apr 13, 2009)

If you cannot find the link to the spray jets,
try and google=botanicare 708200


----------



## Morduskull (May 13, 2009)

Nice setup man just read it all, damm those plants got tall 
Was wondering what strain ya runnin thier im kinda baked so might of missed that


----------



## Morduskull (May 13, 2009)

Gonna check out ya hempy bucket thread next hope it as sweet as this


----------



## Earl (May 13, 2009)

The strain was a thai cross.

I got the seeds from a grower on another forum.

It turned out pretty good, 
but would have been better 
if it hadn't hermied and cut early.


----------



## MediMary (May 14, 2009)

nice work earl = 0


----------



## LoganSmith (May 18, 2009)

Hey Earl very nice read my friend, 
Do you notice a big difference growing this way? I guess the only way we can tell is by color, weight, smell, taste.ect. Are you happy with what you are producing? I don't recall the amount of space you are working with but you did say you were using 1800 watts of light or three 400 and one 600 watt light, thats seems like a good amount of light for three plants. Looking at your pics do you think that you lost any light pointing away from the plants? 
exusse the 20 questions.


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## Earl (May 18, 2009)

LoganSmith said:


> Hey Earl very nice read my friend,
> Do you notice a big difference growing this way?


Yes



LoganSmith said:


> guess the only way we can tell is by color, weight, smell, taste.ect. Are you happy with what you are producing?


Depends on the strain.
I have a couple of varieties that work very well.



LoganSmith said:


> don't recall the amount of space you are working with but you did say you were using 1800 watts of light or three 400 and one 600 watt light, thats seems like a good amount of light for three plants. Looking at your pics do you think that you lost any light pointing away from the plants?
> exusse the 20 questions.


This system has a grow space area of 3'x10'
I don't use all the lights until the plants are larger.
I always want more light.
There are more efficient ways to capture all the light,
but I am getting enough of it.

.


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## LoganSmith (May 19, 2009)

Earl said:


> Yes
> 
> 
> Depends on the strain.
> ...


What stains are the best for your app.? and why ? weight is not always the number reason for me, since its all for me


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## NewHiddenGrower (Jun 3, 2009)

What was the yield earl?

What was the veg time?


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## chente419 (Jun 3, 2009)

here is my first aeroflo diy. 8ft. fence post from grainger.im using s panda rez.with a sub. [email protected] six-hundreds(hps)with a 10 inch inline fan attached to a carbon filter a/c at 70-72degrees f..


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## Earl (Jun 4, 2009)

LoganSmith said:


> What stains are the best for your app.? and why ? :


I like to grow strains that get big and grow fast.
I'm still searching for the mother plant 
that will give me that trait as a feed stock.

I have grown a few plants like that from seed,
but never took cuttings for a mother,
because I need to travel 
and I can't keep a mother alive until I can use it
to feed this aero system.

That's why I'm doing the hempy buckets.
I'm searching for a mother,
which might take a few years to find.

So I'll just keep growing like I am, 
unless I get lucky.

It's all good, 
if you have good genetics to start with.
.


NewHiddenGrower said:


> What was the yield earl?
> 
> What was the veg time?


The cuttings from the mother plant were in the system for about 6 weeks of 18/6 veg.

I don't weigh my crops
it too hard to weigh if you do a proper cure.

All the buds are in glass jars.

I just smoke it
and it keeps getting better as it cures.

There is enough yeild to get me through to the next launch.

If you want to maximize your yield,
you need to learn to make butane hash oil 
from all the parts that you won't smoke.

I will not discuss BHO here.
There are lots of threads to learn how to diy BHO.
.


chente419 said:


> here is my first aeroflo diy. 8ft. fence post from grainger.im using s panda rez.with a sub. [email protected] six-hundreds(hps)with a 10 inch inline fan attached to a carbon filter a/c at 70-72degrees f..


Your link doesn't work,
please try again.


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## Lothario (Jun 7, 2009)

Here mine Earl

Still under construction.

https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/189454-diy-aeroflo-help.html

Suggestions are always welcome.

thanks!


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## typ3ss (Jun 8, 2009)

Hey this is a silly question.

But here it goes.


Do the net pot's cover lid affect the stem's growth at all?

I ask this because those net pot's cover are so tight....


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## Earl (Jun 8, 2009)

Lothario said:


> Here mine Earl
> 
> Still under construction.
> 
> ...


 sorry, your link is not working.


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## Earl (Jun 8, 2009)

typ3ss said:


> Hey this is a silly question.
> 
> But here it goes.
> 
> ...


The short answer is;
The stem-tube interface is not a problem.

I use neoprene, which yields to the stem as it grows.
.


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## Lothario (Jun 9, 2009)

Sorry here it is.

https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/189454-diy-aeroflo-help.html

not sure what happened.


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## Agent88 (Jul 7, 2009)

hello earl please forgive me for approaching you this way, 

my account will not let me send personal messages yet and the other thread I tried to write in was a grow journal... didn't actually work too well

i am a admirer of your hydroponic gardening and intellect

please could you assist me with a little problem of mine?

https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/210966-silver-coin.html

thank you kiss-ass


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## cruzer101 (Jul 9, 2009)

Hey Earl,

After watching you grow a couple times I decided I would try aeroponics and built a system. 
I got a second cabinet 48" by 24" to flower in and made a chiller for the res.

When I have the thermostat all the way down the water is 66° any lower and I will turn it off. I put the cooling tray from a dorm fridge in the res. When I turn it up I can get the water down to 42° Pretty cold.

I put this in a second cabinet and divided it. temps around the coils are around 100° and around 70° in the res area. 
Totally Stealth.

Anyway, I thought you or your readers might want to check it out and maybe give me some pointers.

I split the build from the grow.

Build 
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-room-design-setup/210480-dual-areoponic-cabinet-build.html

Grow
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/210479-dual-areoponic-cabinet-ceramic-metal.html

It would be cool to see what you think.

Thanks.​


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## Hidden Agenda (Jul 25, 2009)

Are you using neoprene without any growing medium (ie hydroton)? 

I considered doing it that way a year or two ago, and have been considering it again in one of my next grows. I do more of a SOG style with a few totes with the sprayers inside. 

Out of curiosity, how much did the chiller help? I have had some rot problems in the past. Do you still use h2o2 much with the chiller? Do you know how much power it uses? 

Sorry for all the questions. I think I talked to you once a year or so ago. Props from a fellow oh-high-oh-an


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## Earl (Jul 25, 2009)

Hidden Agenda said:


> Are you using neoprene without any growing medium (ie hydroton)?


With clones, Yes. 
If I start from seed I use coco and neo like cruzer shows in his thread.
I used hydroton in the space shuttle,
but next time I will try to go with just neoprene.

This 4 inch grow I took cuts and started and finished them in the neoprene.



Hidden Agenda said:


> Out of curiosity, how much did the chiller help? I have had some rot problems in the past. Do you still use h2o2 much with the chiller? Do you know how much power it uses?


The chiller completely stops root rot.
I do not use H2o2 anytime during the grow.
I'm not sure about the chiller's power consumption.
It is not much if you insulate your rez.
The chiller makes me look/grow like a pro.
My hillbilly chiller works well also, (space shuttle)
as long as the outdoor air temp is below 50º
so I only use it to maintain the rez temp below 68º during winter months.

I believe 66º is a good temp
and that is what I use on the chiller during most of the grow.
I had the space shuttle down to 40º during last winters grow.
I need to get a controller for that hillbilly chiller, $50.

Cruzer made a chiller from a dorm reefer.
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/210479-dual-areoponic-cabinet-ceramic-metal.html

I love my chiller and want more of them.


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## car washer (Jul 26, 2009)

Earl said:


> With clones, Yes.
> If I start from seed I use coco and neo like cruzer shows in his thread.
> I used hydroton in the space shuttle,
> but next time I will try to go with just neoprene.
> ...


I have followed your work with some inspiration from Stinkbud and recently completed a new flower room from scratch with vertical lighting. I am planning on vegging in a tent with a 400 watt MH wiith a vented hood (horizontal) then flowering with two 600 watt HPS in series, vertically, in cool tubes. 

Having a panic attack over something I just read in ICMAG about never veg in horizontal then flower in vertical. Stress on plants....Do you have an opinion on this matter? 

Thanks.


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## exabits (Jul 27, 2009)

Hi all, first post woot!! Anyway I thought now would be a good time for me to chime in with a cheapish DIY chiller. costs 150.oo-200.oo. 

Basically the only thing you need to buy is a window A/c unit, preferrebly one with a digital thermostat.



with some work youll be able to get the evaporator out the front of the unit, then just stick it in a tub of your choice and get the water flowing through. Hope this helps somebody out there...

P.S. Earl I love your DIY aero units, your work inspired me to build my own. A lil pic of the unit I built, based off of a few others around this forum and ofc with my own lil twist, enjoy.



I have been reading these great forums for awhile now. I have picked up much knowledge along the way, thanks all.


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## Earl (Jul 27, 2009)

Welcome to RUI.

Why not start a DIY thread in the hydro forum
and take more pictures of your Homemade chiller.

My only concern would be copper/aluminum metals 
leaching into your nutes from the chiller.

Post a link to your "How to" thread here 
when you get it on the board.
Welcome.


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## Talisman (Jul 27, 2009)

I have seen and done every grow with tap water and seen one with ro. The cost does not make sense. There is not one thing wrong with the tap grows I have seen so pay if you want but weeds don't need so much babying and if you could see how fast the ones I am growing now are growing with tap water you would not listen to the bad rap on it..... Huge buds and great veg growth . what else do you want. Just change the rez every two weeks and you are golden......


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## cruzer101 (Jul 28, 2009)

Talisman said:


> I have seen and done every grow with tap water and seen one with ro. The cost does not make sense. There is not one thing wrong with the tap grows I have seen so pay if you want but weeds don't need so much babying and if you could see how fast the ones I am growing now are growing with tap water you would not listen to the bad rap on it..... Huge buds and great veg growth . what else do you want. Just change the rez every two weeks and you are golden......


I follow earls grows because he is an experienced grower and I learn things. I keep my mouth shut most of the time but this guy pisses me off.

Hey Mr. know it all. You assume everyones tap is the same. It is not.
Yours may be fine to grow in but most city water supplies are full of crap. Like you. You can go on line, find your city water supplier and get a list of the contaminates. I have found it varies greatly from city to city. Hell, I am in silicon valley, Mine has more then twenty times the amount of arsenic thats acceptable by law from the silicon chip plants. How the hell any arsenic is acceptable is beyond me. That along with all the decayed pesticides from the past orchards puts it at 330 ppms. Mix manufactures recommended amount of nutes to that and you might as well put a torch to your hydro grow.

Look at the big picture next time before you shoot your mouth off and give poor advice.

Sorry Earl. I will sit down now.


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## wbinwv (Jul 28, 2009)

Talisman said:


> I have seen and done every grow with tap water and seen one with ro. The cost does not make sense. There is not one thing wrong with the tap grows I have seen so pay if you want but weeds don't need so much babying and if you could see how fast the ones I am growing now are growing with tap water you would not listen to the bad rap on it..... Huge buds and great veg growth . what else do you want. Just change the rez every two weeks and you are golden......


You're the example of who NOT to listen to. My city's tap water runs 7.8ph and almost 300PPM.

I'd never use tap water....ever. 

Change the res every 2 weeks huh? lol


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## Earl (Jul 28, 2009)

Talisman said:


> I have seen and done every grow with tap water and seen one with ro. The cost does not make sense. There is not one thing wrong with the tap grows I have seen so pay if you want but weeds don't need so much babying and if you could see how fast the ones I am growing now are growing with tap water you would not listen to the bad rap on it..... Huge buds and great veg growth . what else do you want. Just change the rez every two weeks and you are golden......


Please post a link to your *picture* grow log.
If you don't have one, then you need to be careful.
You are not making friends with your blanket statements 
and no proof to back up your words.


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## McFunk (Oct 30, 2009)

Wow, Earl.
This is great journal. 

You are officially my hero today!
Very smart and interesting read! 
rep!

Thanks!

McFunk


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## Realclosetgreenz (Nov 3, 2009)

With a rudimentary understanding of Heating/cooling technologies one can build a water cooler from scratch at very little cost.


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## wweweeweed (Dec 7, 2009)

wow...nice set up earl. just out of curiosity, how often and for how long do you have the pump spraying water on the plants?


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## Earl (Dec 7, 2009)

Seedlings get spray 24/7
and then after a couple of weeks I start using the cycle timer.
1min on / 15 min off


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## wweweeweed (Dec 7, 2009)

i see, is that the same as your aeroponic space shuttle? because it looks like the roots are submerged in water even when they are not being sprayed.


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## Earl (Dec 7, 2009)

I try to keep the roots out of the rez
by stuffing them back in the tube.


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## jackdirty (Dec 14, 2009)

great thread i just built my self a 30 plant 4" squared aeroflo system, so ro water filter is pretty major? would a two step filter work?i heard it takes most sediment out and calcuim but leaves some trace minerals.. very vague on the back of the box i was reading didnt want to buy it tothrow it away to get a ro filter lol... ill be searching ur thread and maybe asking future question later- jack


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## Earl (Dec 14, 2009)

http://www.purewaterclub.com/


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## MoN3yb4Gs (Jan 8, 2010)

Earl said:


> If I would have figured out the 2 inch net pots,
> the shuttle would be 4 inch PVC tubes,
> with a little more spread between them,
> (I could have put them closer to the edge of each tub)
> ...


 Great job on your aero unit. You inspire me. (50 site) 6" tube / 3.5" net pots. What do you think?
Thanks Earl!


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## Earl (Jan 8, 2010)

Do you have a grow journal going ?

Looks great, 
I would like to watch it grow.

Post a link here please.


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## MoN3yb4Gs (Jan 11, 2010)

Earl said:


> Do you have a grow journal going ?
> 
> Looks great,
> I would like to watch it grow.
> ...


'

You know I really just don't yet. This is only the first half of my diy unit. 
I'm running through the preliminary test phase right now of this side to ensure everything is calibrated properly. I should be up and running very soon. Everything looks GOOD so far! 
I'll make sure to post to my grow link when I get to that point. Thanks again Earl!


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## supaflyhigh (Jan 17, 2010)

Hey Earl, respect for your grow man, your system is awsome, just loved the root matt.
Thanx for all the valuable info bro, could you please answer a few questions for me,

are u still using AN nutes?
if so apart from the sensi grow and bloom, what else do you use?
Do you use anything to keep the nastys out your water?
How often do you do a res change?

I am also gonna use AN nutes, did i get it right 600ppms max in veg and 500ppms max in bloom?

sorry for all the questions, i'll look forward to seeing more of your beutiful work... thanx Earl


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## Earl (Jan 18, 2010)

I am still using AN nutes.

I also use some Barricade or Silica Blast to raise the pH
one or two drops until you know what it will do.

I run around 600 during the last phase of veg and through transition
and then start the flower nutes around 600 and may go up to 700 for a very short time.

I added too much Hammerhead (0-9-18 ) too soon 
on the last batch 
and I was disappointed in the yield.

The lack of nitrogen stopped the growth.

I like the taste of the buds when they are grown this way
but you need to time the withdrawal of N correctly 
to get max yeild.

You will need to customize your nute loads for the strain you are growing.

The key is to figure out the lowest nute load 
that will get the job done.

Too high nute loads will reduce yield 
and burn out the flavor.

Too high nute loads are not obvious 
until it is too late and the damage is done

Too low loads will just slow down your grow or reduce yield
and can be seen before damage is done
but fixing this problem is easy.


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## supaflyhigh (Jan 23, 2010)

so, if i was gonna use the AN nute calculator on light feeding 1200ppm peak, it would be to much? would it burn my plants? even though it is supposed to be light feeding?

Hey Earl, this is what i am thinking of using.

sensi grow a+b
sensi bloom a+b
big bud
overdrive

and cannazym

Do you see any probs with this mix?
would i need to add anything else to keep control of disease?

sorry for all the questions, i hope u don't mind but i've never done aero before or hydro.

Thanks Earl


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## Earl (Jan 24, 2010)

You will probly need some Sensi Cal Mag

1200ppm is too high for aero.
500-600 tds is best
with 50-100ppm of that being calmag

Good meters, (tds & pH) are aero essentials.



Big bud and Overdrive need to be added/used 
at just the right time,
and not in very large amounts.

To control disease, 
first make sure your system is clorox sterile clean before you start,
and then keep the rez temp below 70º,
I like around 65º-66º


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## musicislfe (Mar 1, 2010)

Whats the root zone temp if u know?... any draw backs from this design? sorry if these questions were already asked.... i dont know how to read.


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## Earl (Mar 2, 2010)

The thermostat keeps the air temp in the tubes at 64ºf

.


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## MoN3yb4Gs (Mar 26, 2010)

Earl said:


> Do you have a grow journal going ?
> 
> Looks great,
> I would like to watch it grow.
> ...


not a very good journal, but check out my progress, almost ready to harvest. what do you think?


https://www.rollitup.org/grow-room-design-setup/273979-10-x-15-stealth-attic-13.html


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## truth0704 (Jun 21, 2010)

earl- new guy here who found your aero plans. seriously, thanks for putting this out there. I've scoured the net high and low for a decent set of plans and i'm well on my way to covering the entire thread. I had a couple of questions for you if you don't mind:

-first of all, i'm looking to build this a little bigger. i was thinking maybe 4-6 tubes, 6 openings for net pots, perhaps 6" net pots. would you say i need at least an 8" diameter section of pipe? if you have any tips or recommendations for these dimensions, i'd really appreciate it.

-so the verdict is definitely a 'NAY' for any misting? i found a few of these and was wondering if anyone thinks they're worth a shot-
http://www.dripirrigation.com/drip_irrigation_info.php?cPath=39&products_id=817
http://www.dripirrigation.com/drip_irrigation_info.php?cPath=39&products_id=985
http://www.dripirrigation.com/drip_irrigation_info.php?cPath=39&products_id=377

-opposed to using 1 reservoir per 2 sections of pipe, would it be out of the question to use, say, a 90g reservoir with 1 large pressure rated (external) pump moving the water to 6 tubes?

also, for those looking for used chillers, try reefcentral.com or reef2reef.com and peruse the used drygoods section; also try craigslist for people selling their salt water reeftank setups.


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## Bron Anon (Apr 25, 2011)

Thread Necromancy! Clatto, Verata, Nic(cough. . .)


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## Chuck Cory (May 7, 2011)

googling 4 inch aero with chiller keeps me coming back here???


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## Earl (Dec 30, 2011)

If you can't find a chiller you can afford, you can use a window a/c unit and duct it into your rez. you will need a thermostat to control the temp.


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