# My First Hydroponic



## Pavlin (Dec 2, 2011)

Hello to all
I begin my first hydroponics and I will be very happy if you help me.My secret garden will consist of:
Growbox - 240x120x200
Hydroponic system: 2x10 wilma
Reflector: 2 x Hammer 47x47
Lamps: 2x600w MH and 2x600w HPS and 2X55w CFL(dual)
Easy Roller:2
digital thermo - hydro meters:1
digital timer:6program 
Controller for temperature and humidity of negative pressure (G-system)
electronic timers- 4pcs
humidifier:JOYCARE JC-490
Soil: keramzit
Fans: 2 pcs
Ventilation: 800mm2
Filter: ECONOMY LINE CTC55, 780 m³/h,160mm
Supplements: Natural power, CO2 (tablets) + Dutch Formula (complex)
Regulators and TestersH & EC
Grodan
Seeds : 10-g13 (feminized) 5-Big Budd (regular)

*I raise them as follows:*

6 weeks: (2 week CFL(5cm),4week MH 60cm over plants)
light - 18 hours
PH - 5.8
temperature-27&#730;C
humidity - 50%
watering - 3x15min.

14 days: (HPS 60cm)
Light - 12:00
PH - 5.8
humidity - 59
temperature - 27.4&#730;C
watering - 3x30min

7 days: (HPS 60cm)
Light - 12:00
PH-5.8
temperature - 27.4&#730;C
EC-1.6
humidity - 67%
watering - 3x45min

14 days: (HPS 60cm)
Light - 12:00
PH -5.8
temperature - 26&#730;C
humidity - 65
EC-1.8
watering 3x45min

21 days: (HPS 60cm)
Light - 12:00
PH-5.8
temperature - 26.1&#730;C
humidity - 65
EC-2.0
watering - 3x45min

Last 3 days without water. The last 2 days without light.

watering: (in the process of gathering the best information)

Last 2 weeks Ill use just plain water in nutrient tank.
Replacement of water and chemicals every 2 weeks


If I forgot something I will be happy to tell me to add it


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## Pavlin (Dec 2, 2011)

Just to warn you that I never cloned until now. Do you think it would be better as a straight path from seed to end without cloning?


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## lime73 (Dec 2, 2011)

Welcome to RIU!


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## Pavlin (Dec 2, 2011)

Thanks for the welcoming do you think this model of care that I have chosen that good? Sorry but I use google translete and can get a few things not meaningful


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## lime73 (Dec 2, 2011)

Pavlin said:


> Thanks for the welcoming do you think this model of care that I have chosen that good? Sorry but I use google translete and can get a few things not meaningful


That's ok...I'm fairly patient 

so you are going to grow seedling for 2 weeks then flip to 12/12 flowering?


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## Pavlin (Dec 2, 2011)

lime73 said:


> That's ok...I'm fairly patient
> 
> so you are going to grow seedling for 2 weeks then flip to 12/12 flowering?


So I do it. Do you think it is wrong? And if so how do you think that is the best option?


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## jm098556 (Dec 2, 2011)

Veg for 6 weeks from seed and flower for 8 weeks. If you veg for 2 weeks from seed your yields going to be really shitty.


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## Pavlin (Dec 2, 2011)

jm098556 said:


> Veg for 6 weeks from seed and flower for 8 weeks. If you veg for 2 weeks from seed your yields going to be really shitty.


Thanks "jm"! That was helpful!might have in predvit that my first 14 days shall be 42 days?


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## lime73 (Dec 2, 2011)

Pavlin said:


> So I do it. Do you think it is wrong? And if so how do you think that is the best option?


well I like to grow my plants a bit before throwing them into flowering....like 6 weeks veg 18/6.... then flower 8+weeks 12/12.... that way they are a bit bigger and will produce more than a tiny plant would...usually a plant will double its height during flowering, so if you have a 12" plant during veg ....and it will be 24" by time it finishes. aprox some will grow more but that's just an average.


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## Pavlin (Dec 2, 2011)

Thank lime73.Shte change a post for 6 weeks. Think you need to change my 8 weeks or just to add more growth than 2 weeks to 6?


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## lime73 (Dec 2, 2011)

Pavlin said:


> Thank lime73.Shte change a post for 6 weeks. Think you need to change my 8 weeks or just to add more growth than 2 weeks to 6?


Yes ...just grow seedlings with 18/6 light cycle for at least 6 weeks....then you can flip the light cycle to 12/12 for flowering. which will take at least 8 more weeks to finish once you change the light cycle to 12/12


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## Pavlin (Dec 2, 2011)

Ok thank lime73! And how do you think about other things in the boxing sense, lighting, etc.


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## lime73 (Dec 2, 2011)

Pavlin said:


> Ok thank lime73! And how do you think about other things in the boxing sense, lighting, etc.


600 mh might be too intense for seedlings ... i use fluorescent bulbs/ cfl for my seedlings til they grow for a couple weeks then put them under MH.


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## Pavlin (Dec 2, 2011)

Ordinary fluorescent lamps? how many watts and how long these lamps use them before you put your MH?


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## lime73 (Dec 2, 2011)

Pavlin said:


> Ordinary fluorescent lamps? how many watts and how long these lamps use them before you put your MH?


basically I use 30 watt shop lights with natural shine/and or daylight bulbs (6500k color temp/blue) ...seedling don't need intense light for first couple of weeks...then once they are growing...then you can put them under the MH


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## Pavlin (Dec 2, 2011)

Thank you very much "lime73" This was very helpful! What do you think of my arrangement of the remaining 8 weeks? as parameters that I set?


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## Pavlin (Dec 2, 2011)

And you think that a 600W sodium lamp will do a better job than fluorescent lamps?


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## lime73 (Dec 2, 2011)

Pavlin said:


> Thank you very much "lime73" This was very helpful! What do you think of my arrangement of the remaining 8 weeks? as parameters that I set?


Once you get those beans going...we can work on that..... later.

Are you germinating them now?


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## lime73 (Dec 2, 2011)

Pavlin said:


> And you think that a 600W sodium lamp will do a good job of fluorescent lamps?


You can use your MH ..... but it has to be very far away from them to start or it could hurt them


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## Pavlin (Dec 2, 2011)

Can you tell me how long to stay with fluorescent lamps?will not start as you say, these lamps will eventually put MH


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## lime73 (Dec 2, 2011)

Pavlin said:


> Can you tell me how long to stay with fluorescent lamps?


 say about 2- weeks


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## Pavlin (Dec 2, 2011)

Ok thanks that was helpful "lime73"! but how do you think that for the first time do not do it from seed to clone without end?


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## lime73 (Dec 2, 2011)

Pavlin said:


> Ok thanks that was helpful "lime73"! but how do you think that for the first time do not do it from seed to clone without end?


hmmm - seed to clone without end? do you mean how do you keep them going , without using more seeds. example.... by Take cuttings (clones)


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## Pavlin (Dec 2, 2011)

I do not think I can not handle 1 time with clones and I think only seeds without clone because it will take longer with clones.


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## lime73 (Dec 2, 2011)

Pavlin said:


> I do not think I can not handle 1 time with clones and I think only seeds without clone because it will take longer with clones.


You have seeds and to get a clone...you need to grow a Plant first from seed ( unless someone gave you a plant), so that you can take cuttings from it, to get your clones. 

.


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## Pavlin (Dec 2, 2011)

Ok.what you think of the other parameters of my garden?


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## lime73 (Dec 2, 2011)

Do you have seeds to start?


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## Pavlin (Dec 2, 2011)

I have seeds but I do not like waiting and unique G-13 (22-23% thc) Big Bud Haze and a few days will be with me and start box-a. For now, I want to see what is best. Then you will get everything I napravila.I start growing together


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## Pavlin (Dec 2, 2011)

What do you think I use reflector may adjust-a-wing or a hammer?


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## r0t3nf3tus (Dec 2, 2011)

Heres a peek at my first hydro grow. Im using a flood n drain table w/6 pots and one DWC that has a pump to feed the upper roots 3 x a day. Here they are oct 21,2011. Last day of veg. The strain is sour diesel. http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/2066/sammitydiesel102111002.jpg. 
Here they are 4 weeks later on the 18 of nov. http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/8440/dsc00010iu.jpg. For getting my clone off to a good start i built this http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/2205/diesel050.jpg http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/2993/diesel048.jpg works great.ill post some more pics this weekend. Heres a look at one of the purty budz http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/8428/dsc00039lv.jpg


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## lime73 (Dec 2, 2011)

r0t3nf3tus said:


> Heres a peek at my first hydro grow. Im using a flood n drain table w/6 pots and one DWC that has a pump to feed the upper roots 3 x a day. Here they are oct 21,2011. Last day of veg. The strain is sour diesel. http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/2066/sammitydiesel102111002.jpg.
> Here they are 4 weeks later on the 18 of nov. http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/8440/dsc00010iu.jpg. For getting my clone off to a good start i built this http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/2205/diesel050.jpg http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/2993/diesel048.jpg works great.ill post some more pics this weekend. Heres a look at one of the purty budz http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/8428/dsc00039lv.jpg


Nice pics...


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## Pavlin (Dec 2, 2011)

Glad that you (r0t3nf3tus) engage in the cultivation of my future childrenHow many times a day to be on strike and how long to water the plants?


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## r0t3nf3tus (Dec 2, 2011)

Currently I flood the table 3x a day at about 45 min each time. when the plants were younger i only flooded the table from 15 min(young clones and seedlings) then as they got bigger i added 15 at beginning of bloom cycle then up to 45 min each feeding last 4-6 of bloom. Last 2 weeks Ill use just plain water in nutrient tank. Last 3 days I removed all water and then no light last 2 days before harvest.


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## Pavlin (Dec 2, 2011)

If anyone thinks that there is more to be added to first post let's not bother to write.I will be happy to share your experiences. Thank you!


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## jm098556 (Dec 2, 2011)

You should be fine even if you use a 1000w just make sure the room temperature stays around 75 degrees Farenheit. Also make sure youre humidity is around 55-60 percent so your plants cant breath. Some people use domes to keep the humidity high while in seedling stage.... The main thing you need to be careful with is not friying your seedlings.... They are very sensitive at that stage in life... Best way ive been told is to hold the inside of your forearm near the plants and see if the light feels comfortable to the inside of your arm because that skin is sensitive and youll be able to tell if the light is too hot.


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## Pavlin (Dec 3, 2011)

If someone thinks that you should add one more thing to let my equipment to share it because I think 2-3 days to merge.
Thanks in advance!


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## Pavlin (Dec 3, 2011)

a chance to know how much negative pressure should be homebox-a?


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## Pavlin (Dec 6, 2011)

I waved to MH and leave only the CFL and CFL use HPS.da 2 weeks and then only HPS?


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## Pavlin (Dec 10, 2011)

Starting 7 hour


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## cannabineer (Dec 11, 2011)

Hi Pavlin

The CFLs are ideal for at least two weeks, until the plant is past "seedling" stage. Once it is maybe four weeks old, the MH is good for the rest of veg ... the vegetative stage. HPS is ideal for flowering the mature plants.
CFLs work best when held quite close to the plant tops ... even 5 to 10 cm. 
With HIDs, you have to have a larger space between plant tops and the light. For a 600W MH, I'm finding 24 inches (60 cm) to be a minimum. 
As for negative pressure, anything you can feel will be good enough. A few Pascals are sufficient. cn


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## Pavlin (Dec 11, 2011)

Thanks for the information


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## Pavlin (Dec 13, 2011)

How many times do you think is the maximum cleaning chest with water? 2 weeks or more if more how?is not very comfortable for 2 weeks.


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## Pavlin (Dec 15, 2011)

dfhsjkdafhsdfsda


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## cannabineer (Dec 15, 2011)

Hello Pavlin
Your setup looks very nice!
How many watts is that fluorescent lamp?
In my opinion you will be fine with the fluorescent until the plants outgrow it. That is best not done by fixed schedule. Instead, allow the size of the plants be your guide. 
I notice you are using large rockwool cubes ... be watchful of pH with those. they tend to raise pH unless they have been thoroughly soaked in a mildly acidic buffer. 
For your question on how often to change the reservoir ... the Wilma systems do not seem to have a large capacity. i would change the nutrient solution once a week, no longer, until the plants are big and consuming the liquid quickly. monitoring pH and EC (ppm) will also give you a "feel" for the lifetime of your nutrient. it os like cooking ... the schedule is less important than the look of what's in the pot! Best luck to your grow. cn


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## Pavlin (Dec 15, 2011)

The lamp is 200w DUAL. cubes were soaked about 3 hours before using.


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## Pavlin (Dec 15, 2011)

how often do you think we should change the water plant?


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## Pavlin (Dec 16, 2011)

someone has a proposal how to make moisture? baby without air conditioners?


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## Pavlin (Dec 17, 2011)

My children are now 1 week. What thoughts are you are developing?


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## woodsmaneh! (Dec 17, 2011)

Your 8 weeks will depend on your plants, most breeders say 7 to 8 weeks but the truth is more like 8 to 10 weeks. You need to get a magnifier that is at least 30x, this will help you know when to harvest. Here are some pictures to help.



View attachment 1939947


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## Pavlin (Dec 17, 2011)

how well you think you have grown for 7 days?


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## cannabineer (Dec 17, 2011)

Pavlin ... they look good. Be advised that when writers of books talk about "veg time, they do not count germination time, and then they put 2 to 3 weeks of "seedling time" between germination and veg time. 
The other thing I see is that the rockwool is very wet. The roots will need some air exchange in order to be healthy. cn


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## Pavlin (Dec 17, 2011)

Is wet because it was just fields now watering them 2 times a day today.


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## cannabineer (Dec 17, 2011)

It looks like the fun is starting then! Nice lights by the way! Your setup is very clean. cn


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## Pavlin (Dec 17, 2011)

I think next week to transfer them to pots and 4 weeks to stand for 18 hours. How do you think?


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## woodsmaneh! (Dec 17, 2011)

Pavlin said:


> I think next week to transfer them to pots and 4 weeks to stand for 18 hours. How do you think?


You should wait till you have roots coming out of the cube before putting in pots.


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## Pavlin (Dec 17, 2011)

I put them in large blocks of wool and then hidroton. I guess that up to 1 week rootswill come out of the small cubes.


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## OldLuck (Dec 17, 2011)

Do you have a grow journal on your 1st grow?



r0t3nf3tus said:


> Heres a peek at my first hydro grow. Im using a flood n drain table w/6 pots and one DWC that has a pump to feed the upper roots 3 x a day. Here they are oct 21,2011. Last day of veg. The strain is sour diesel. http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/2066/sammitydiesel102111002.jpg.
> Here they are 4 weeks later on the 18 of nov. http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/8440/dsc00010iu.jpg. For getting my clone off to a good start i built this http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/2205/diesel050.jpg http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/2993/diesel048.jpg works great.ill post some more pics this weekend. Heres a look at one of the purty budz http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/8428/dsc00039lv.jpg


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## Pavlin (Dec 17, 2011)

well you will do


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## cannabineer (Dec 17, 2011)

A paper notebook might be nice ... to compare your original schedule with the adjusted schedule that evolves as you watch your plants grow. You can document successes, failures, better ideas for nutrients and lights etc. 
cn


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## Pavlin (Dec 17, 2011)

Well so b&#1077; it *

I put them in large blocks of wool and then hidroton . I guess that up to 1 week rootswill come out of the small cubes.​​
**

​
*


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## hellraizer30 (Dec 17, 2011)

Looks good pavlin, that a camera you got over seeing your kids?


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## Pavlin (Dec 17, 2011)

Seeing them on 24 / 7 without having to enter and import germs, etc. trying to make a sterile environment. This shows only 1 otherwise 3. Do you think this is a goodoption?


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## hellraizer30 (Dec 17, 2011)

Yah its cool pavlin i like it


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## Pavlin (Dec 17, 2011)

Nice
Do you think it would be better after 1 week to put them in large cubes and hidroton?Then another 4 weeks of MH 18 hours?


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## hellraizer30 (Dec 17, 2011)

I wouldnt put then to bigger cube, till you see good roots


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## cannabineer (Dec 17, 2011)

I would not use larger rockwool cubes, but go to keramzit/ hydroton from there. cn


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## Pavlin (Dec 17, 2011)

cannabineer you mean do not put them in a big right in hidroton?


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## Kratose (Dec 17, 2011)

Pavlin said:


> I do not think I can not handle 1 time with clones and I think only seeds without clone because it will take longer with clones.


Actually growing from clone is quicker then growing from seed


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## Pavlin (Dec 17, 2011)

but I do not know whether to be dealing with cloning. I wanted 10 G-13 to make 10clones and mothers continue growing. but I do not know what will happen. I have never cloned.


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## Kratose (Dec 17, 2011)

Hey what happened to my other posts? They are all gone. Did someone delete them?

Cloning is very easy. People think its hard but once they do it they see how easy it is. If you take clones you don't have to keep a mother plant. But either way would work.


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## Kratose (Dec 17, 2011)

lime73 said:


> Nice pics...


Lol lime I see your signature. So why did cali say that?


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## Pavlin (Dec 17, 2011)

I'm not sure that I understood


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## cannabineer (Dec 17, 2011)

Pavlin said:


> cannabineer you mean do not put them in a big right in hidroton?


Yes. Rockwool is adequate for starting. Hydroton is easier to manage imo once you have roots. cn


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## Kratose (Dec 17, 2011)

Rockwool is adaquate yes but I really don't like it. But then again everyone is different. Just because I don't like them doesn't mean they are no good. What I don't like about them is when I put the clones in and pinch the bottom shut sometimes it doesn't keep the plant in tight. Sometimes it will lean a bit.


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## Pavlin (Dec 17, 2011)

So you think that the best option is to not put them in large blocks? not to confuseanything.


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## Kratose (Dec 17, 2011)

Pavlin said:


> So you think that the best option is to not put them in large blocks? not to confuseanything.


Not sure who you are asking. Different people will have different answers. If your talking about clones no I wouldn't put them in a large block. All you need is something small. A small rockwool cube is fine if your going to use rockwool. Personally I just use a soil medium. I am having a brainfart but there is another medium to use. The thinks that you soak with water and they expand. Grrr having a brainfart can't think. Someone help me out here.

Do any of you have facebook? If you do want to do me a favor and like my blog on facebook. Go to my blog http://cannabis-Country.blogspot.com and on the right hand side of the page above my visitor map you will see
the like cannabis country on facebook.

Would really appreciate it. Spread the word about Cannabis Country. Thanks!

Gotta go take my dog for a walk. See you all later.


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## Pavlin (Dec 17, 2011)

I have facebook but moral support


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## thepaintedchef (Dec 17, 2011)

change your nutes weekly. Make sure u was out the resivour too. Put you light to 18/6. You wanna replicate nature as best you can.


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## Pavlin (Dec 17, 2011)

ok thanks


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## woodsmaneh! (Dec 17, 2011)

You will have the plants so you should try cloning. Just before you switch to flower top all the plants at between the second and third joint. By the time you are done flowering you have plants ready to go. 

Easy cloning
This is what I do, why I do it, and how.
What you need
Sharp small scissors I use Frisker&#8217;s and get them from Hommer depot. They last me for years but all I use them for is clowning. I clean them with an alcohol swab before using. They stay sharp and have great control. I always put the cover back on and clean them before putting them away.
16 oz. translucent beer cups, I use the translucent ones because they allow me to see if they are watered enough and the development of the root system. I use a small pocket knife to poke 2 holes one on each side. Stick the knife in a ¼ inch and give it a small twist. Holes plug slots almost never. This is for drainage.
Rooting gel, get some good stuff, if in a jam get powder. This provides the boost to get them going.
Seed starter soil; make sure it&#8217;s *SEED STARTER SOIL*. Buy the best you can afford. I use MG and it works great for starting them.
Get your stuff together, fill cups to the top with *SEED STARTER SOIL *set them in the trays and water with 6.5 ph water. If using chlorinated water put some in a pail for 2 hours. It will off gas by then. Water the cups, here is when you will see the magic of the cups being translucent. So there all wet now you cut.
You best bet is to make sure you have a node to stick in the dirt. So cut below the 3 node just above the 4 one. Clip leaves off the 3erd node and pull the clone through your thumb and finger (make a O with them) as you pull it through gently squeeze your thumb over the finger to close the O and trap the clone tips just above your finger. Now cut the tips off, stick in gel/powder and stick it in the cups as far as you can but leave the leaves above the top of the cup.
Water when you see the colour of the dirt change, the magic of the cups. Hope this helps.
I get 98% success this way. No dome just under the lights.


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## Kratose (Dec 17, 2011)

Pavlin said:


> I have facebook but moral support


What do you mean but moral support?


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## Pavlin (Dec 18, 2011)

woodsmaneh! wound me but you have to clone you can follow along with me to plantand tell me step by step what to do? I will for the first time.


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## Pavlin (Dec 18, 2011)

how to become large plants and is there something different in looking to get readyfor cloning? When ready for cloning? How many clones out of a plant? How to clone?I have these and more questions about cloning.


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## lime73 (Dec 18, 2011)

Pavlin said:


> how to become large plants and is there something different in looking to get readyfor cloning? When ready for cloning? How many clones out of a plant? How to clone?I have these and more questions about cloning.


have to be patient ...and grow one of your plants big enough, to be able to take cuttings/clones from them.


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## Pavlin (Dec 18, 2011)

I have patience, but how to become large and in the same way you have to watch them mothers clones? in the sense that a thing is in particular? a mother how can Iclone anyway?


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## lime73 (Dec 18, 2011)

Pavlin said:


> I have patience, but how to become large and in the same way you have to watch them mothers clones? in the sense that a thing is in particular? a mother how can Iclone anyway?


when it gets bigger (mom/female)... and has lots of branches, you will be able to cut off 3"-4" branches off as a new plant ( clone )... the bigger the Mom plant is the more cuttings you can take off of her.


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## Pavlin (Dec 18, 2011)

Clearly. And are there any special demanding but mothers? Can I cut off after them tocontinue to watch them and pull them to harvest? My thought is to do 10 mothers and10 of these clones. Then continue to watch their mothers. How do you think?


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## woodsmaneh! (Dec 18, 2011)

That will work. What I do is cut the top off each mom for my next clone. 10 moms = 10 clones

lots of videos on you-tube for cloning may even be some in your language


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## Pavlin (Dec 18, 2011)

mothers then can I continue to grow and make it yield? can I clone has blossomedplant?


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## woodsmaneh! (Dec 18, 2011)

You cut the clones from your plants before you put them into flower, Topping can increase your yield with most plants.


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## Pavlin (Dec 18, 2011)

I have another in mind. I know of flowering plants make clones?


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## woodsmaneh! (Dec 18, 2011)

Pavlin said:


> I have another in mind. I know of flowering plants make clones?


Yes you can take clones from a flowering plant, bottom is best. It is harder and longer to grow them back, not many people do it. Much higher failure rate.

*Ja du kan ta trussel fra en sine anlegg, bunnen er best. Det er vanskeligere og lengre å vokse dem tilbake, ikke mange folk gjøre det. mye høyere svikten.*


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## woodsmaneh! (Dec 18, 2011)

Pavlin said:


> least of my children who are in soil and 25 days in blossoms.starting today bloombastic will see the difference after 7 days one of them has whitespots? what you may have?



Looks like powdery mildew I use milk and water, you need to keep a fan blowing gently over the tops of the pots 24/7, high humidity and cool temps cause it.

Linda Chalker-Scott, Ph.D., Extension Urban Horticulturist and Associate Professor, 
Puyallup Research and Extension Center, Washington State University 


The Myth of Milk and Roses: 


"Milk sprayed onto rose leaves will prevent fungal and bacterial diseases" 


The Myth 


In the last few years, the Internet has been abuzz with the news that spraying milk on rose leaves can 
control foliar diseases. The web stories most often cite a Brazilian study published in 1999 focusing on 
powdery mildew control on zucchini. This new alternative to conventional fungicides has been 
augmented with anecdotal reports of successful powdery mildew control on a variety of plants, including 
roses. Moreover, the treatment is also touted as preventing leaf black spot, thus giving hope to rose 
aficionados everywhere of a safe, effective method of growing disease-free specimens. 


The Reality 


Milk has been part of the horticultural toolbox for many decades; for instance, it has been used with 
varying effectiveness as a spreader or sticker in pesticide applications. Perhaps the best-documented use 
of milk has been in reducing the transmission of leaf viruses, especially tobacco mosaic and other mosaic 
viruses. Studies over the last half of the 20th century document the effectiveness of milk used for this 
purpose (Table 1): 


Table 1: Effectiveness of milk products in protecting leaves from viruses: 


Location Year Crop Milk product Conditions Effective? 
Australia 1967 Sugarcane Evaporated Field Somewhat 
Brazil 2001 Zucchini Raw + leaf extract Field Yes 
Brit. Col. 1964 Tomato Unknown Unknown Yes 
Florida 2004 Hibiscus Non-fat dry Field Yes 
Germany 1971 Spinach Full cream Greenhouse Yes 
Beans Full cream Greenhouse Yes 
Beets Full cream Greenhouse Yes 
Celery Full cream Greenhouse Yes 
Pea Full cream Greenhouse Yes 
Potato Full cream Greenhouse No 
Hawaii 1994 Orchid Nonfat Laboratory No 
India 2003 Sunflower Nonfat Field Somewhat 
Manitoba 1959 Barley Nonfat Field Yes 
New Zealand 1943 Tobacco Unknown Field Yes 
Quebec 1968 Tomato Unknown Unknown Yes 
Russia 1961 Tobacco Whey Laboratory Somewhat 
Taiwan 1991 Pepper Nonfat Field No 


The effectiveness of milk sprays in reducing virus transmission probably improves with the concentration 
of the milk product used; milk concentrations of 20% nonfat dry or 30% fresh were reported as effective 
in the Florida and Brazil studies, respectively. Milk is routinely recommended as an organic hand 
sanitizer when handling virus-susceptible seedlings for transplant. 



How milk functions as an antiviral agent is not clear but there are a few attractive hypotheses. First, milk 
may deactivate viruses chemically or isolate them physically; hence the success of milk as a sterilizing 
treatment. Second, milk may prevent aphid attack, and thus transmission, of aphid-borne viruses. 
Aphids may be deterred by the milk film on the leaf or attacked by aphid pathogens whose growth is 
enhanced by milk sprays; a 2003 study identified just such a fungal agent on treated pepper leaves. 


Recently, milk has made an appearance as an antifungal agent, specifically in powdery mildew prevention 
(Table 2). [Note that there have been no published scientific studies investigating roses or any other 
ornamental plant species.] 


Table 2: Effectiveness of milk products in protecting leaves from powdery mildew: 


Location Year Crop Milk Conditions Effective? 


Australia 2000 Melon Full & half Field Somewhat 
Brazil 2005 Pumpkin Raw Field Yes 


Pumpkin Pasteurized Field Yes 
Brazil 1999 Zucchini Fresh Greenhouse Yes 
Italy 2003 Cucurbits Unknown Field Inconclusive 
Italy 2002 Cucurbits Fresh Greenhouse Yes 


Cucurbits Dried Greenhouse Yes 


Cucurbits Fresh Field 
Yes/No 


Cucurbits Dried Field Yes/No 
UK 2003 Wheat Pasteurized Greenhouse Yes 


The results of these studies suggest that milk treatment under controlled (greenhouse) conditions is more 
successful than in the field. None of these studies utilized nonfat milk, so it&#8217;s unclear whether it would 
show any efficacy. In general, it appears that milk applied before fungal inoculation is more effective 
than milk applied after infection is present. Stems and lower leaf surfaces may be less protected, 
especially under high disease incidence. 


This last point is important when considering the value of anecdotal claims of the effectiveness of milk or 
any other pesticidal treatment. Unless plant material is actually challenged (exposed to) the disease or 
pest of interest, it is impossible to attribute the subsequent lack of disease or pests to that treatment. 
Statements such as &#8220;Last year I had horrible black spot problems, but this year I used milk spray and my 
roses are disease-free&#8221; display faulty logic in the assumption of cause and effect where none may actually 
exist. 


There are a few potential drawbacks to using milk as a foliar spray: 


&#8226; 
Milk-fat can produce unpleasant odors as it breaks down. 
&#8226; 
The benign fungal organisms that colonize leaves and break down milk can be aesthetically 
unattractive. 
&#8226; 
Dried skim milk has been reported to induce black rot, soft rot, and Alternaria leaf spot on treated 
cruciferous crops. 
Is it worth trying milk as a treatment for viruses, powdery mildew, or any other disease? Absolutely! 
There is substantial evidence that milk treatments can be effective in the protection of some crops, and 
organic farmers especially might benefit from this method. But on which plant species will milk 
treatment prevent disease? What pathogens are actually inhibited by milk products, and which milk 



products are the most effective? Until these questions have been answered, it will be impossible to devise 
a reliable application protocol. 


The Bottom Line 


&#8226; 
There is no evidence that milk sprays are effective in controlling black spot on roses or any other 
ornamental plant species. 
&#8226; 
Milk sprayed onto leaves may act as a nutrient source for benign microorganisms, decreasing the 
leaf area available for powdery mildew to infect. 
&#8226; 
Leaves coated with a milk spray may be less vulnerable to aphid attack, thereby reducing the 
transmission of aphid-borne viruses. 
&#8226; 
Milk sprays can encourage the growth of other microorganisms, whose presence may be 
aesthetically unappealing. 
&#8226; 
Milk sprays may be a viable alternative to conventional pesticides, especially for organic farmers. 
For more information, please visit Dr. Chalker-Scott&#8217;s web page at http://www.theinformedgardener.com.


----------



## ohmy (Dec 18, 2011)

woodsmaneh! said:


> You will have the plants so you should try cloning. Just before you switch to flower top all the plants at between the second and third joint. By the time you are done flowering you have plants ready to go.
> 
> Easy cloning
> This is what I do, why I do it, and how.
> ...


 Have you ever made a you tube video of how you do it and ur set up? Every one all ways does stuff diffrent,and if you get 98% with no dome that is real good. Might save me the trouble of getting a cloner


----------



## Pavlin (Dec 18, 2011)

Thank you woodsmaneh! Will not clone from a flowering of the other who will be inhydroponics. How long do you think the plants will be ready for me to cut them? andafter the cut to go the same way to grow them?


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## Pavlin (Dec 18, 2011)

Do you think it is nice to cut all the leaves of plants? because you can not get light to all chapters.


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## Kratose (Dec 19, 2011)

Pavlin said:


> Do you think it is nice to cut all the leaves of plants? because you can not get light to all chapters.


I think your asking is it ok to cut away leaves on the plant because light is not penetrating your plant. The answer to that is yes. If there are a few branches that you could take off that would open up the plant so more light can penetrate then definitely do it. Just make sure not to take off any main branches. My best advice is just use common sense when picking what branch you are going to cut off.


----------



## woodsmaneh! (Dec 19, 2011)

I agree ^^ just din't go crazy.


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## Kratose (Dec 19, 2011)

Pavlin said:


> I have another in mind. I know of flowering plants make clones?


Here is a video on cloning. Although I would take my clones from a bigger mother plant, and I wouldn't just take the top because the failure rate for tops are higher then bottoms. So I would take 1 top but multiple bottom clones. And whatever top clones do survive they will become very big strong plants. And then you have your smaller lower branch clones. 

This video was the best one I found when looking. Can't believe I couldn't find a better video but oh well. I didn't search for hours though. But here check it out.

[video=youtube;nfxHrcpTbOU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nfxHrcpTbOU&amp;feature=related[/video]


----------



## Kratose (Dec 19, 2011)

woodsmaneh! said:


> I agree ^^ just din't go crazy.


Yeah I probably shouldn't of added that. Just make sure you only cut away whats needed and NOTHING MORE. 

I will be doing a post about cloning eventually on my blog. I can't say when but I will eventually get to it. I have so much to write about so I will save that for when I am having writers block. Today I got the go ahead to feature Urban Grower on my blog. Very happy. So I made a new post and I have a video of his in it. 

If anyone wants to check it out you can find my blog here: http://Cannabis-Country.blogspot.com


----------



## lime73 (Dec 19, 2011)

Pavlin said:


> Do you think it is nice to cut all the leaves of plants? because you can not get light to all chapters.


no.no.no....not good to cut all leaves off will shock em. leaves feed the buds, so if you remove em...ouch! 

light will penetrate your leaves, plants don't see light like we do...


----------



## woodsmaneh! (Dec 19, 2011)

lime73 said:


> no.no.no....not good to cut all leaves off will shock em. leaves feed the buds, so if you remove em...ouch!
> 
> light will penetrate your leaves, plants don't see light like we do...



I think were saying something the same here, it is OK to trim a few leaves if they can't be moved out of the way, if they can't trim. This does not apply to SOG or High density growing even LST as it is the opposite.


----------



## Pavlin (Dec 19, 2011)

will not cut it after a week will get to see pictures of the difference bloombastic .


----------



## Pavlin (Dec 19, 2011)

How do you when to change the CFL with MH?


----------



## Kratose (Dec 19, 2011)

Pavlin said:


> How do you when to change the CFL with MH?


Again, this is something people will have different opinions about. But this is what I WOULD DO. I would start my clones out under CFL's and once they have rooted and grown a set, or two of leaves you can then put them under the MH. 

Some people would rather grow the clone out more before putting them under MH. And others will use MH throughout the whole vegetation stage. 

I personally don't use a MH at all. I get better results under my CFL's. For some reason when I use CFL's I can keep the short and bushy. Yes you can do that with MH too but I find I keep them shorter and bushier with CFL's. I think that has to do with the ability to put CFL's really close to your plants. Unlike MH lights to where you can't. 

A good rule of thumb is to put your hand under the light. If it burns your hand then its too hot for your plants. If it does not then its fine. 

Anyways thats my 2 cents.


----------



## Pavlin (Dec 19, 2011)

they are not clones are still babies and my question was when these babies toreplace the lamp?


----------



## woodsmaneh! (Dec 19, 2011)

2 weeks is fine, I like T5's if you have *T5's keep them under for at least 4 weeks than go to the MH*


----------



## Pavlin (Dec 20, 2011)

There are 10 days!

do not see these strange anomaly?If you do not see I'll tell you one root out two plants. very strange do not you think?


----------



## Pavlin (Dec 20, 2011)

What is T5? you mean CFL?you mean to use a CFL four weeks instead of 2 as I had planned?


----------



## woodsmaneh! (Dec 21, 2011)

they are not the fat CFL's they are thin and very powerful.

http://www.bustan.ca/product_detail.asp?menuID=4&SID=24&PID=790


----------



## Pavlin (Dec 21, 2011)

1. CFL will use well until you exit all the roots of the cubes and then I can put my MH?
2. Do you find it strange that a plant last 2 pictures?


----------



## hellraizer30 (Dec 21, 2011)

Wouldnt trip on those pavlin just wait and see what happens


----------



## Pavlin (Dec 21, 2011)

you mean anomaly for you? They could not understand


----------



## hellraizer30 (Dec 21, 2011)

Im mean you shouldnt worry yet


----------



## Pavlin (Dec 21, 2011)

Aham OK
CFL will use well until you exit all the roots of the cubes and then I can put my MH?


----------



## woodsmaneh! (Dec 21, 2011)

Pavlin said:


> 1. CFL will use well until you exit all the roots of the cubes and then I can put my MH?
> 
> *YES
> *
> ...



*NO

*everyone is breeding and when that happens you get abnormal plants. The twisting is from any number of things from to much food to to much light or stress.


----------



## Pavlin (Dec 21, 2011)

Hmm ... strange why others do not become abnormal?  Probably all want to havedegenerated as my 2 1 root plants


----------



## Kratose (Dec 21, 2011)

Pavlin said:


> There are 10 days!
> View attachment 1945069View attachment 1945078
> View attachment 1945079View attachment 1945080do not see these strange anomaly?If you do not see I'll tell you one root out two plants. very strange do not you think?


Looking good Pavlin! Before you know it they will be out of the seedling stage and in full vegatation








Check out my blog at http://Cannabis-Country.blogspot.com


----------



## Pavlin (Dec 22, 2011)

I have the following problem: Calibration of 7.0-7.1 PH meter and then weigh the water PH is 5.8 after some changes it goes from 4.8-6.6? someone has an idea ofwhat is due to this thing?
Calibrate the meter as follows: wash under the tap and then dunk it in a solution of 7.1PH and then wash with a solution that will compete and only then mete great solution.
I think it is correct.


----------



## jeeba (Dec 22, 2011)

If you dont wash inbetween soloutions you are cross contaminating! Do this, wash, dip in 7.0 adjust,wash,dip in 4.0 adjust,wash. My probe calls to sit in water so I stick it in my clean water res.When making new tests allways wash before.


----------



## Pavlin (Dec 22, 2011)

I found the following information: Gettin PH-7.0 solution put 5 ml. in court and thenwash with distilled water meter and fuse it to the court with 5 ml. solution and turn in a circle about 10 seconds. then put it in a large solution of 7.0 and calibrated. Afterwashing with distilled water again repeat it the same with a solution of 4.0 ml. Andfinally mete PH of water which pour.


----------



## Pavlin (Dec 24, 2011)

The children are now 14 days. Today I changed the CFL (200) with MH (600).Increased watering of 3x15min. And they transferred in large cubes. Here are thepictures:


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## woodsmaneh! (Dec 24, 2011)

Looking real good.

Have a great Christmas


----------



## Pavlin (Dec 24, 2011)

I wish a Merry Christmas to all!!!


----------



## Kratose (Dec 25, 2011)

Pavlin said:


> I wish a Merry Christmas to all!!!


Merry Christmas Pavlin and everyone!

Hugs


----------



## Pavlin (Dec 26, 2011)

Here are some pictures from soil:


----------



## woodsmaneh! (Dec 26, 2011)

I see white spots on the leaves, CHECK FOR BUGS! look under the leaves, you need a magnifying glass to see the little bugs.

here are a few shots of my plants at 7 weeks

View attachment 1956530View attachment 1956531View attachment 1956532View attachment 1956533View attachment 1956534


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## lime73 (Dec 26, 2011)

woodsmaneh! said:


> I see white spots on the leaves, CHECK FOR BUGS! look under the leaves, you need a magnifying glass to see the little bugs.
> 
> here are a few shots of my plants at 7 weeks
> 
> View attachment 1956530View attachment 1956531View attachment 1956532View attachment 1956533View attachment 1956534


is there a reason you caged them?...lol.... scared of the beast within...haha

Awesome plants man!


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## woodsmaneh! (Dec 26, 2011)

lime73 said:


> is there a reason you caged them?...lol.... scared of the beast within...haha
> 
> Awesome plants man!


There 3 1/2 feet high and so heavy they fall over and break, the cage adds support, the KO Kush plant is a monster and would be on the floor by now without the support. The cage is 4 feet tall and sits at the same height as the top of the pot.


----------



## lime73 (Dec 26, 2011)

woodsmaneh! said:


> There 3 1/2 feet high and so heavy they fall over and break, the cage adds support, the KO Kush plant is a monster and would be on the floor by now without the support. The cage is 4 feet tall and sits at the same height as the top of the pot.


so true...I'm sure its better than tying em up, tripping over lines, or worse coming home to a bud/branch laying on the ground  

perfect technique...when your growing taller plants with nice dank buds


----------



## hellraizer30 (Dec 27, 2011)

Pavlin said:


> Here are some pictures from soil:


Looks like thrip damage to me


----------



## Pavlin (Dec 27, 2011)

I see no bugs, I think it is preparations have more than they need because they aresprinkled with a preparation which is 13/17 and the other is 20/20 PK. which I think isan unnecessary but I use it and himand possibly iron deficiency ... but there is no problem


----------



## Pavlin (Dec 27, 2011)

How about this individual only he does not want to develop?


----------



## lime73 (Dec 27, 2011)

Pavlin said:


> How about this individual only he does not want to develop?


you mean she. how many days of flowering 12/12 has it been?
what size light hps is that?... and how far away is it from top of plant?


----------



## Pavlin (Dec 27, 2011)

600w 60 cm from the tip of the largest plants is not the biggest.


----------



## lime73 (Dec 27, 2011)

Pavlin said:


> 600w 60 cm from the tip of the largest plants is not the biggest.


600w can be closer...like 45 cm from top of plant just make sure you got a good fan blowing between plant and light so its not too hot.

*how many days of flowering 12/12 has it been?*


----------



## Pavlin (Dec 27, 2011)

currently 40 days of flowering. flowering but was released earlier than necessary in the sense were very small and let them bloom. this may seem small to you.


----------



## lime73 (Dec 27, 2011)

looks like she is just starting to flower ...like 2weeks/14 days ( was she in dark for 12 hrs during lights out)...maybe she started flowering a bit late...or lights are to far away?


----------



## Pavlin (Dec 27, 2011)

If the lamp will burn you on the big plants?


----------



## lime73 (Dec 27, 2011)

you have a bigger plant in area too?... if so just raise the small plant higher so that top of all plants are 45 cm from light...just raise smaller plant up with crate...shelf or something sturdy.


----------



## lime73 (Dec 27, 2011)

how many plants in flower?


----------



## Pavlin (Dec 27, 2011)

OK will try and upload photos over time to see the difference.


----------



## lime73 (Dec 27, 2011)

Pavlin said:


> OK will try and upload photos over time to see the difference.


ok....just remember that plants in flowering need 12 hrs of night to flower, when you move light a bit closer than 60cm, you will start to see the difference


----------



## Pavlin (Dec 27, 2011)

Do they now are 12/12 to the lamp and see the result


----------



## Pavlin (Dec 27, 2011)

What do you think of other spots in my plants is iron deficiency.


----------



## lime73 (Dec 27, 2011)

Pavlin said:


> Here are some pictures from soil:
> 
> *
> 
> *





Pavlin said:


> What do you think of other spots in my plants is iron deficiency.


on these plants...well do the white specks come off the leaf... or is it damaged spots


----------



## Pavlin (Dec 27, 2011)

Spots on the leaves in my opinion are of iron deficiency.
Do you think that if you bind the leaves of the above will have a problem? I want to dosomething to reach more light to lower branches.


----------



## Pavlin (Dec 29, 2011)

These white spots appear and the other children.


----------



## GrassCity Sucks (Dec 29, 2011)

lime73 said:


> That's ok...I'm fairly patient
> 
> ...


Yeah, well thankfully, it's not us that's gotta use Google Xlate to read AND reply: Now that THERE is an exercise in patience 

I'm impressed. I couldn't summon the patience required to use a forum through Google  Hats off to YOU Pavlin


----------



## Pavlin (Dec 31, 2011)

21 days:


----------



## lime73 (Dec 31, 2011)

looking good Pav


----------



## Pavlin (Dec 31, 2011)

Thank you Lime


----------



## Pavlin (Dec 31, 2011)

I wish a happy New Year to all!!!


----------



## GrassCity Sucks (Dec 31, 2011)

Cheers  You too


----------



## OldLuck (Dec 31, 2011)

Looking good. Happy New year


----------



## Pavlin (Dec 31, 2011)

Thanks oldluck!


----------



## lime73 (Jan 1, 2012)

Happy New Year Pavlin


----------



## Pavlin (Jan 1, 2012)

Thank Lime73! Happy New Year! I wish you health, happiness and luck in everythingnew start in 2012! Good luck!


----------



## Pavlin (Jan 2, 2012)

Few pictures from the soil


----------



## woodsmaneh! (Jan 2, 2012)

They look great. The spots still bug me. Iron I don't think so. Maybe Boron, here is a trouble shooter information. Your doing well

*Cannabis Nutrient Disorders*

Nutrient disorders are caused by too much or too little of one or several nutrients being available. These nutrients are made available between a pH range of 5 and 7 and a total dissolved solids (TDS) range of 800 to 3000 PPM. Maintaining these conditions is the key to proper nutrient uptake. 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Nutrients Over twenty elements are needed for a plant to grow. Carbon, hydrogen and oxygen are absorbed from the air and water. The rest of the elements, called mineral nutrients, are dissolved in the nutrient solution. The primary or macro- nutrients (nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K)) are the elements plants use the most. Calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) are secondary nutrients and used in smaller amounts. Iron (Fe), sulfur (S), manganese (Mn), boron (B), molybdenum (Mo), zinc (Zn) and copper (Cu) are micro-nutrients or trace elements. Trace elements are found in most soils. Rockwool (hydroponic) fertilizers must contain these trace elements, as they do not normally exist in sufficient quantities in rockwool or water. Other elements also play a part in plant growth. Aluminum, chlorine, cobalt, iodine, selenium, silicon, sodium and vanadium are not normally included in nutrient mixes. They are required in very minute amounts that are usually present as impurities in the water supply or mixed along with other nutrients. 
*NOTE: The nutrients must be soluble (able to be dissolved in water) and go into solution. 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Macro-nutrients Nitrogen (N) is primary to plant growth. Plants convert nitrogen to make proteins essential to new cell growth. Nitrogen is mainly responsible for leaf and stem growth as well as overall size and vigor. Nitrogen moves easily to active young buds, shoots and leaves and slower to older leaves. Deficiency signs show first in older leaves. They turn a pale yellow and may die. New growth becomes weak and spindly. An abundance of nitrogen will cause soft, weak growth and even delay flower and fruit production if it is allowed to accumulate. 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Phosphorus (P) is necessary for photosynthesis and works as a catalyst for energy transfer within the plant. Phosphorus helps build strong roots and is vital for flower and seed production. Highest levels of phosphorus are used during germination, seedling growth and flowering. Deficiencies will show in older leaves first. Leaves turn deep green on a uniformly smaller, stunted plant. Leaves show brown or purple spots. 
NOTE: Phosphorus flocculates when concentrated and combined with calcium. 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Potassium (K) activates the manufacture and movement of sugars and starches, as well as growth by cell division. Potassium increases chlorophyll in foliage and helps regulate stomata openings so plants make better use of light and air. Potassium encourages strong root growth, water uptake and triggers enzymes that fight disease. Potassium is necessary during all stages of growth. It is especially important in the development of fruit. Deficiency signs of potassium are: plants are the tallest and appear healthy. Older leaves mottle and yellow between veins, followed by whole leaves that turn dark yellow and die. Flower and fruit drop are common problems associated with potassium deficiency. Potassium is usually locked out by high salinity. 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Secondary Nutrients Magnesium (Mg) is found as a central atom in the chlorophyll molecule and is essential to the absorption of light energy. Magnesium aids in the utilization of nutrients, neutralizes acids and toxic compounds produced by the plant. Deficiency signs of magnesium are: Older leaves yellow from the center outward, while veins remain green on deficient plants. Leaf tips and edges may discolor and curl upward. Growing tips turn lime green if the deficiency progresses to the top of the plant. 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Calcium (Ca) is fundamental to cell manufacture and growth. Soil gardeners use dolomite lime, which contains calcium and magnesium, to keep the soil sweet or buffered. Rockwool gardeners use calcium to buffer excess nutrients. Calcium moves slowly within the plant and tends to concentrate in roots and older growth. Consequently young growth shows deficiency signs first. Deficient leaf tips, edges and new growth will turn brown and die back. If too much calcium is applied early in life, it will stunt growth as well. It will also flocculate when a concentrated form is combined with potassium. 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Trace Elements Sulphur (S) is a component of plant proteins and plays a role in root growth and chlorophyll supply. Distributed relatively evenly with largest amounts in leaves which affects the flavor and odor in many plants. Sulphur, like calcium, moves little within plant tissue and the first signs of a deficiency are pale young leaves. Growth is slow but leaves tend to get brittle and stay narrower than normal. 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Iron (Fe) is a key catalyst in chlorophyll production and is used in photosynthesis. A lack of iron turns leaves pale yellow or white while the veins remain green. Iron is difficult for plants to absorb and moves slowly within the plant. Always use chelated (immediately available to the plant) iron in nutrient mixes. 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Manganese (Mg) works with plant enzymes to reduce nitrates before producing proteins. A lack of manganese turns young leaves a mottled yellow or brown. 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Zinc (Z) is a catalyst and must be present in minute amounts for plant growth. A lack of zinc results in stunting, yellowing and curling of small leaves. An excess of zinc is uncommon but very toxic and causes wilting or death. 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Copper (C) is a catalyst for several enzymes. A shortage of copper makes new growth wilt and
causes irregular growth. Excesses of copper causes sudden death. Copper is also used as a fungicide and wards off insects and diseases because of this property. 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Boron (B) is necessary for cells to divide and protein formation. It also plays an active role in
pollination and seed production. 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Molybdenum (Mn) helps form proteins and aids the plant's ability to fix nitrogen from the air. A
deficiency causes leaves to turn pale and fringes to appear scorched. Irregular leaf growth may also result. 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
These nutrients are mixed together to form a complete plant fertilizer. The mix contains all the
nutrients in the proper ratios to give plants all they need for lush, rapid growth. The fertilizer is
dissolved in water to make a nutrient solution. Water transports these soluble nutrients into contact with the plant roots. In the presence of oxygen and water, the nutrients are absorbed through the root hairs. 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
The above text is excerpted from George Van Pattens' excellent book "Gardening: The Rockwool Book". 

[HR][/HR]​

*Key on Nutrient Disorders*
To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. Diagnose carefully before
making major changes. 
1) a) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2.
b) If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6. 
2) a) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen (N) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #3. 
3) a) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #4. 
4) a) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency.
b) If not, keep reading&#8230; 
5) a) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and
leaves may be small. >> Phosphorous (P) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #6. 
6) a) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or
insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K.
b) If not, go to #7. 
7) a) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray,
brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N).
b) If not, go to #8&#8230; 
a) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >>Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely).
b) If not, go to #9. 
9) a) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning.
b) If not, go to #10... 
10) a) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency.
b) If not, #11. 
11) a) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf
margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency.
b) If not, #12. 
12) a) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn)
deficiency.
b) If not, #13. 
13) a) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency.
b) If not&#8230; You may just have a weak plant. 

[HR][/HR]​*Solutions to Nutrient Deficiencies*
The Nutrients: 
Nitrogen - Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor. 
Magnesium - Mg-deficiency is pretty common since cannabis uses lots of it and many fertilizers don't have enough of it. Mg-deficiency is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water) or foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil for Mg. Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients. 
Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather. 
Phosphorous - Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency. 
Iron - Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency. 
Manganese - Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use chelated Mn. 
Zinc - Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients- lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc.

Check Your Water - Crusty faucets and shower heads mean your water is "hard," usually due to too many minerals. Tap water with a TDS (total dissolved solids) level of more than around 200ppm (parts per million) is "hard" and should be looked into, especially if your plants have a chronic problem. Ask your water company for an analysis listing, which will usually list the pH, TDS, and mineral levels (as well as the pollutants, carcinogens, etc) for the tap water in your area.This is a common request, especially in this day and age, so it shouldn't raise an eyebrow. Regular water filters will not reduce a high TDS level, but the costlier reverse-osmosis units, distillers, and de-ionizers will. A digital TDS meter (or EC = electrical conductivity meter) is an incredibly useful tool for monitoring the nutrient levels of nutrient solution, and will pay for itself before you know it. They run about $40 and up. 
General Feeding Tips
Pot plants are very adaptable, but a general rule of thumb is to use more nitrogen & less phosphorous during the vegetative period, and the exact opposite during the flowering period. For the veg. period try a N:K ratio of about 10:7:8 (which of course is the same ratio as 20:14:16), and for flowering plants, 4:8:8. Check the pH after adding nutrients. If you use a reservoir, keep it circulating and change it every 2 weeks. A general guideline for TDS levels is as follows:
seedlings = 50-150 ppm;
unrooted clones = 100-350 ppm;
small plants = 400-800 ppm;
large plants = 900-1800 ppm;
last week of flowering = taper off to plain water.
These numbers are just a guideline, and many factors can change the actual level the plants will need. Certain nutrients are "invisible" to TDS meters, especially organics, so use TDS level only as an estimate of actual nutrient levels. When in doubt about a new fertilizer, follow the fertilizer's directions for feeding tomatoes. Grow a few tomato or radish plants nearby for comparison. 
PH - The pH of water after adding any nutrients should be around 5.9-6.5
(in rockwool, 5.5-6.1) .

Generally speaking, the micro-nutrients (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu) get locked out at a high pH (alkaline) above 7.0, while the major nutrients (N, P, K, Mg) can be less available in acidic soil or water (below 5.0). Tap water is often too alkaline. Soils with lots of peat or other organic matter in them tend to get too acidic, which some dolomite lime will help fix. Soil test kits vary in accuracy, and generally the more you pay the better the accuracy. For the water, color-based pH test kits from aquarium stores are inexpensive, but inaccurate. Invest in a digital pH meter ($40-80), preferably a waterproof one. You won't regret it. 
Other Things&#8230; 
Cold - Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can lock up phosphorous. Some varieties, like equatorial sativas, don't take well to cold weather. If you can keep the roots warmer, the
plant will be able to take cooler temps than it otherwise could. 
Heat - If the lights are too close to the plant, the tops may be curled, dry, and look burnt, mimicking a nutrient problem. Your hand should not feel hot after a minute when you
hold it at the top of the plants. Raise the lights and/or aim a fan at the hot zone. Room temps should be kept under 85F (29C) -- or 90F (33) if you add additional CO2. 
Humidity - Thin, shriveled leaves can be from low humidity. 40-80 % is
usually fine. 
Mold and fungus - Dark patchy areas on leaves and buds can be mold. Lower
the humidity and increase the ventilation if mold is a problem. Remove any dead leaves,
wherever they are. Keep your garden clean. 
Insects - White spots on the tops of leaves can mean spider mites
underneath. 
Sprays - Foliar sprays can have a "magnifying glass" effect under bright
lights, causing small white, yellow or burnt spots which can be confused with a nutrient problem. Some sprays can also cause chemical reactions. 
Insufficient light -- tall, stretching plants are usually from using the
wrong kind of light.. Don't use regular incandescent bulbs ("grow bulbs") or halogens to grow cannabis. Invest in fluorescent lighting (good) or HID lighting (much better) which supply the high-intensity light that cannabis needs for good growth and tight buds. Even better, grow in sunlight. 
Clones - yellowing leaves on unrooted clones can be from too much light, or
the stem may not be firmly touching the rooting medium. Turn off any CO2 until they root. Too much fertilizer can shrivel or wilt clones - plain tap water is fine.


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## Pavlin (Jan 2, 2012)

what do you think can be fixed? preparation?


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## woodsmaneh! (Jan 3, 2012)

Other than the spots they look good. You could try some cal-mag or something like that at 1/2 recommended on the label.


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## Pavlin (Jan 3, 2012)

What can happen if you do not fix it?remains little time to ask this.


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## GrassCity Sucks (Jan 3, 2012)

Spider-mites leave areas like that .. but also fine webbing. 

Feel free to dismiss that though, since I haven't even read the thread ;D


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## Pavlin (Jan 4, 2012)

I'm not sure what you say but I think it is okay if you do not fix it?


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## woodsmaneh! (Jan 4, 2012)

Pavlin said:


> I'm not sure what you say but I think it is okay if you do not fix it?


Just leave it, they are doing fine


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## Pavlin (Jan 4, 2012)

Thank you! let him do so to see what happens


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## Pavlin (Jan 4, 2012)

Can anyone tell effective and durable method for increasing the moisture? methodthat can not touch it at least 1 week?


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## Pavlin (Jan 7, 2012)

Beauties 28 days
what do you think they may have these white spots :


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## woodsmaneh! (Jan 7, 2012)

looking very nice

white spots look like splash marks from liquid to me

did you spill someting?


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## woodsmaneh! (Jan 7, 2012)

Pavlin said:


> Can anyone tell effective and durable method for increasing the moisture? methodthat can not touch it at least 1 week?


Have a look here I am sure you have something like this over there.

http://www.homedepot.ca/catalog/humidifiers-dehumidifiers/178001

Er at bilde av deg


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## Pavlin (Jan 7, 2012)

*

I thank you so but I do work only work 18 hours 
Thanks "woodsmaneh!" but they could not understand​
​
*


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## Pavlin (Jan 7, 2012)

I was thinking of something to dip in a barrel with water and it evaporates to water butto be safe? Our cooker but say it is very risky: (


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## Pavlin (Jan 8, 2012)

Hello some of you have used TOP SHOOTER? if so can you share the opinion is there any use of it and increase yields by 30%?


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## Pavlin (Jan 8, 2012)

Help children die!


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## cannabineer (Jan 8, 2012)

Pavlin, I do not know why your plants are doing that. I have no good guesses. cn


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## lime73 (Jan 8, 2012)

check with a magnify glass or scope...thrips/ mites.... if they move/or spots come off it is bugs. too me looks like bug damage

if not bugs and it is damaged leaves, than must be some kind of illness or disease?

https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/488004-guide-nutrient-deficiency-toxicity.html


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## Pavlin (Jan 8, 2012)

I think that tomorrow trips will throw all of brimeks.


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## woodsmaneh! (Jan 8, 2012)

*What is your Ph*

Change your nutrients and add some cal mag

*veranderen de voedingsstoffen en controleer pH*


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## GrassCity Sucks (Jan 8, 2012)

Pavlin said:


> Help children die!


Sure they're not just going fungus through spraying?


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## woodsmaneh! (Jan 8, 2012)

Powdery Mildue

use 1 part milk to 9 parts water and spray till the liquid runs off.

have a fan on the floor 24/7 blowing very lightly

sorry it took so long ^^^^^ thanks GrassCity

http://www.google.ca/search?q=powdery+mildew&hl=en&prmd=imvns&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=QYcKT-jiNMGLgwfV89D8AQ&ved=0CGEQsAQ&biw=1152&bih=735

http://www.humblegarden.com/2007/08/30/powdery-mildew/


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## Pavlin (Jan 9, 2012)

already ordered preparation to spray pests. but while waiting for them preparation with milk and water.


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## Pavlin (Jan 10, 2012)

Hi I have a question: Plants I have missed 24 hours watering. The reason is that the timer is broken. Plants themselves are better in appearance. There is one that he hasseriously flagging leaves and branches, while others have burned the tips of itsleaves. Do you think there is something disturbing from here?
Thank you!


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## woodsmaneh! (Jan 10, 2012)

Pavlin said:


> Hi I have a question: Plants I have missed 24 hours watering. The reason is that the timer is broken. Plants themselves are better in appearance. There is one that he hasseriously flagging leaves and branches, while others have burned the tips of itsleaves. Do you think there is something disturbing from here?
> Thank you!


water and they will be fine

Tip burn = food is too strong
decrease by 20%


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## Pavlin (Jan 10, 2012)

I hope to get better ... horror


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## Pavlin (Jan 14, 2012)

35 days.
Burns on the leaves are in my lamp. What do you think?


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## woodsmaneh! (Jan 14, 2012)

food too strong

light too close


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## Pavlin (Jan 14, 2012)

Why do you think so? I'm not increase the dose preparations is the same as in the beginning.


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## woodsmaneh! (Jan 14, 2012)

Tip burn
leaf burn pix
Yellowing of leaf
what's your Ph?

move the light or bend the tops over like my pix ^^^^


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## Pavlin (Jan 15, 2012)

My pH is 5.6 and then rises up sometimes even 7.5. But if by PH and the other wouldbe gleamed yellow leaves. And they think that only the top is light. Is not it up more than 60 cm?


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## woodsmaneh! (Jan 18, 2012)

your plants are done

View attachment 2004570


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## Pavlin (Jan 21, 2012)

*42 Day:Start Flower.*

*Male*


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## woodsmaneh! (Jan 21, 2012)

Pictures at the end are male, destroy it.


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## Pavlin (Jan 21, 2012)

I will make an experiment how long you can stay without water. For penalty where a man was born: D


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## Pavlin (Jan 31, 2012)

Help something is happening with the kids and I do not know what.


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## woodsmaneh! (Jan 31, 2012)

too hot heat from the lights
pix #2 need some cal-mag


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## Pavlin (Jan 31, 2012)

Thank you hope to get better!


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## Pavlin (Feb 16, 2012)

This is obtained after repotting? Ideas that will be fine?


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## woodsmaneh! (Feb 16, 2012)

not good !!!

too much water?

or

not enough water?

is the soil wet? or dry?


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## GrassCity Sucks (Feb 16, 2012)

Pavlin said:


> This is obtained after repotting? Ideas that will be fine?View attachment 2062823View attachment 2062824View attachment 2062825View attachment 2062826


Be more careful next time you transplant seedlings, would be my advice


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## Pavlin (Feb 17, 2012)

This result from transplanting. Whether it be okay?


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## woodsmaneh! (Mar 16, 2012)

hope you remember everything they lost 1 month of data. Hope all is well


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## Pavlin (Mar 22, 2012)

Any ideas what causes this?


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## woodsmaneh! (Mar 22, 2012)

Low humidity, needs to be 45%+ to 65%

Light too close


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## Pavlin (Mar 23, 2012)

Thank woodsmaneh! The lamp is 15-20cm of the plant relative humidity is 62%.


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## woodsmaneh! (Mar 28, 2012)

How's it growing, are you getting better weather there yet?


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## Pavlin (Apr 1, 2012)

Hello! Can anyone tell me what these are due to drying the leaves?


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## woodsmaneh! (Apr 1, 2012)

not enough water


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## Pavlin (Apr 2, 2012)

Thank you woodsmaneh!


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## woodsmaneh! (Apr 2, 2012)

Rockwool needs to be watered every day.


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## Pavlin (Apr 4, 2012)

Thank woodsmaneh! it did not know that every day should be watered.


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## woodsmaneh! (Apr 4, 2012)

Rockwool only not dirt.


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## Pavlin (Apr 6, 2012)

This is below ground. Or maybe without soil?


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## woodsmaneh! (May 10, 2012)

need a pix Pavlin


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## woodsmaneh! (May 10, 2012)

Pavlin said:


> This is below ground. Or maybe without soil?



with out soil water every day


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## marc88101 (May 10, 2012)

I grow hydro and only water once a day. 1 hour after the lights come on. Rockwool hooks allot of water.
https://www.rollitup.org/newbie-central/526751-newbie-possible-light-burn.html
You can see my plants here.just pot the pics up last night. I'm at day 13 of flower..click on the newbie line..my plants are on page 3 out 4 good luck


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## Pavlin (May 11, 2012)

I think they are mites but treated them with bimex spray.nopositive results: (


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## Kratose (May 11, 2012)

Hey Pavlin long time no talk. How are things going?


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## Pavlin (May 12, 2012)

Hello Kratose! I am struggling with illness and other problems ny  How are you?


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## Saldaw (May 12, 2012)

hey i would just like to ask since youre growing in the netherlands and im going to UNi there how are the laws against growing there? how many plants can i have without having too much of a problem if i get caught?


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## Kratose (May 13, 2012)

Pavlin said:


> HelloKratose!I am struggling withillness andother problemsnyHow are you?


Sorry to hear that. I am doing great. Things are going good. So what are you having problems with.

Here are a few girls I got going.

View attachment 2166317View attachment 2166318View attachment 2166319View attachment 2166320View attachment 2166321View attachment 2166322View attachment 2166323


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## Kratose (May 13, 2012)

Saldaw said:


> hey i would just like to ask since youre growing in the netherlands and im going to UNi there how are the laws against growing there? how many plants can i have without having too much of a problem if i get caught?


Pavlin will probably know more but from my understanding growing weed there is illegal. They only tolerated smoking at smoke shops. But the laws for that have changed in 3 provinces. Tourists can no longer smoke or buy weed in coffee shops. And next year tourists wont be able to buy it anywhere in the Netherlands. For now its just 3 provenances. They are even making things hard for Netherland residents.


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## Pavlin (May 14, 2012)

This is not true. You can buy it only people with a map showing that residents of the Netherlands. Easy there would be loopholes  This makes for tourists ... what senses?


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## Saldaw (May 14, 2012)

yeah i know its not legal to grow weed there but i just wanted to know what happens if you get caught with a few plants


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## woodsmaneh! (May 16, 2012)

Do you still have a problem with your plant?

Use a magnifying glass to check for bugs, is it bugs?







Is it mold?

Here is my current grow, 

View attachment 2169759View attachment 2169760View attachment 2169761View attachment 2169762


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## bygmyke (May 16, 2012)

well for one you have algae growth completely covering the top of your rockwool cubes.....they make covers for that......or you could just get black and white poly and cut squares and make a slit....black side down. my uneducated guess is mold or mildew damage.


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## Kratose (May 17, 2012)

woodsmaneh! said:


> Do you still have a problem with your plant?
> 
> Use a magnifying glass to check for bugs, is it bugs?
> 
> ...


Looking good Woodsman. I wish I had the space/place to grow as much as that. But I am happy with what I got. It works for me.


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## Pavlin (May 23, 2012)

Suggestions how I can remove?


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## r0t3nf3tus (Nov 17, 2012)

sorry bout the pics. had to remove them in order to make room for pics of my new grows coming up for xmas 2012 []Deace n []Dot V,,


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## Pavlin (Jan 29, 2013)

Hello everybody!I am here again with a question for you:*Can i remove leaves from the plants in order to have more light for the heads?*


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## hotrodharley (Jan 29, 2013)

Pavlin said:


> Hello everybody!I am here again with a question for you:*Can i remove leaves from the plants in order to have more light for the heads?*


It is not advisable to remove any leaf from the plant. When she does not need them anymore she kills them off herself. Turn up the lights or tuck these "shade" leaves under or behind another branch.


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## hotrodharley (Jan 29, 2013)

Saldaw said:


> yeah i know its not legal to grow weed there but i just wanted to know what happens if you get caught with a few plants


They whack you on the pee pee.


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## Pavlin (Jan 30, 2013)

Thank you for your quick answer!But i have a new problem  water ph increases incessantly and there is a strange white foam ?


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## Pavlin (Jan 31, 2013)

Have you got any ideas why ph increase?Thanks!


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## Pavlin (Oct 19, 2013)

Welcome back! I have the following problem if anyone can help I would be very grateful!


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## BCOGYODA (Oct 19, 2013)

Pavlin said:


> Hello everybody!I am here again with a question for you:*Can i remove leaves from the plants in order to have more light for the heads?*


Yes you can. The thought that you shouldn't because it will harm the plant is a very old growers myth from books from the 1970's and 80's. We've been doing it constantly for around 10 years with our grows. Our grows are large medical commercial ones though and they are done in tight SOG's mostly but some are also large trees as well. Removing some of the shade leaves will give you more light and air flow to your flowers. This will help them fill out, tighten up, mature quicker, and sugar up more.

When I get around to it I will post up some pics of some before and after pics of how heavily we thin out our plants leaves. You need some leaves on your plants to absorb light and co2 and to help in efficient transpiration. There are stomata's on the undersides of the leaves that look like little mouths under a microscope. These open and close taking in co2 in the day then closing at night to help the plant not lose water because there isn't any photosynthesis happening in the dark.

We also thin out the bottoms of our plants by removing the lower branches which gives more air movement underneath the plants and helps increase the energy the plant can give to the upper flower growth.

The lower number of plants you have in a room and if they aren't cramped you don't have to thin as much as a grower doing tight sog's or scrogs.


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