# Humidity in Curing Jars



## Spetznaaz (Jul 4, 2011)

Hi,

So i have a couple of jars filled, dried for 3 days, chopped then put in jars, humidity was 75+ so they have been in and out of jars untill it went down to 70, this was over about a week period.

So i read that you want to get the jars to 70% humidity then open the lid 2 times a day for 15 mins till you get it down to 65% then open it less and for shorter time till it gets to 60% then leave for long term cure.

So atm, my bud is on 68% and most of the buds stems snap completely and feel like they are too dry to be curing.. i'm very worried i could lose out on potency/smell/flavour if i let the buds dry out too much, but i have read these instructions of the %'s numerous places, and people seem to agree on it..

So yea.. any ideas?

Cheers


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## cannabisguru (Jul 4, 2011)

here ya go... read this article my friend. It will help you with your journey...


Curing your post harvest blues..
Ah yes. Harvest time has come. The buds are swollen, the trichomes are the exact color you have been waiting for. The smell is rich, and soon becomes almost overpowering as you tear into that first bud with shiny new scissors. Not too many of us really like big trim jobs, but we endure. We endure because we know that in a few short weeks we will be enjoying the fruits of our beloved labor.

Of course, we all know that this is not the finish line. On the contrary, this is only the beginning of the race...



The Cure
Oh yes, the cure. Many times has this been judged the most important part of the growing experience, and with good standing reason. This is the point where all our patience and skill will shine through, or take a dive into the miserable oblivian of smoking mere mediocre herb. Botch things here and it will all be for not. Though a perfect cure can help cover up some small discrepancies during your grow, having the best growing conditions on earth will not earn you a free pass through this hallowed gate my friend.

So, how's your cure? Perfect? Consistantly perfect? Are you a Cure Master? Hmm.. Prove it. What?

Did you know that your cure can be broken down into a mathematical equation? What if I told you that you can attain the perfect cure, the best cure possible, every single harvest? And what if it was as easy as painting by numbers? And what if this could totally affect the way you cure, wether you are a newbie, or an old seasoned head?

The following is not something I discovered myself. I was first introduced to it from a guy named Simon. All though he initially taylored it to cannabis he, of course, didn't really discover it either. We most likey owe that to producers of tobacco. Their techniques are somewhat different but since they are curing a plant intended for smoking..... Well, it's just simply a matter of numbers.. I have, in turn, borrowed this concept and brought it here. I have eliminated what I deemed unneccessary and added some of my own insights/experiences. I have also condensed the original information the best I could (as it was quite haphazardly introduced, and many facts/ideas were addressed in later installments) in my own words (which has, in turn, increased greatly in size), but all credit must be afforded Simon for bringing these techniques, in their raw form, to public scrutiny. This, by no means, suggests that the work (either the original, or here) is complete. There are assuredly many more facts, discoveries and techniques left to be uncovered. That said, let's begin..

Cannabis is an annual weed. It's purpose in life is singular and pure: Continued propagation. The female cannabis plant, through it's propagating qualities is naturally the ultimate focuse of this forum, along with many others just like it. In order for the female cannabis plant to fulfill her destiny, and to fill our jars, like all life on earth she needs water. Her flowering buds are full of it. It is the point of drying them to release this water. The cure, on the other hand, is a bit more complicated. In contrast, the cure is an attempt to delay this release of water over time. It is this juggling act that is in dire need of deciphering and it is this thread that will show exactly how it is done. It is said that the bud of a cannabis plant continues to live for a certain amount of time after it is cut from it's stem ( per Ed Rosenthal), in some cases a couple of days. I personally think this is crazy. This is akin to cutting off a chickens head. A lot of good it did the chicken.. Unless your bud has the ability to sprout instant roots and walk itself to an empty pot it is, for all intensive purposes, d, e, a, d, dead. This, by no means, insinuates that there are not living cells and processes to be found, but without the ability to replenish water, the drying has begun. Even though the bud has begun it's dry cycle, there is still plenty of water in it to allow various cells to continue to function. Since the main stem has been cut they have no choice but to pull water and nutrients (in the form of clorophyl and other complex carbohydrates) from stores in the bud and process them into simple carbohydrates (simple sugars) in order to continue to function normally. The more complex carbohydrates that are broken down and the more simple carbohydrates that are used and the more moisture that is lost, the better your buds will be. Within this process is the secret to the perfect cure..


First we will break it down into phases. This seems easiest as you can refer back to any point of the cure by phase. Try to think of it like landing an airplane...

*Phase one: *The dry. This is kind of like preparing to land. The first thing you want to do is come to altitude and lower your landing gear. Basically, once you cut your bud, you need to decide what to do with it. Most of us go ahead and trim it now. Once it is trimmed to our liking, the bud is hung to dry.

*Phase two:* The pre-cure. This is somewhat like landing your airplane. The trick is to set it down on the runway at just the right angle as you begin to reduce your speed. This is where the mathematics come into play. What you are looking for here is the "feel". When your hanging bud begins to "feel" like it is drying out, but the stems are still flexible, it is time to jar. Don't worry, we will revisit this phase in more detail in a bit..

*Phase three:* The cure. Now your airplane is on the runway. This is where you are focusing on your instruments and applying the brakes. This is the actual part of the cure. It is a benefit to keep your bud in this stage for as long as possible. Actually, this may be a little misleading as some folks may like some cures better than others. In other words, this is the point where smells and flavors can change drastically. Depending on what it is you are after will dictate exactly how long you keep this phase in check. But only you can decide what you like.

*Phase four:* Storage. Well, the flight is over, time to put the airplane away. We have finally reached a point where the curing process has greatly slowed down and it is safe to store your bud.



*Hygrometer is needed.*

*Phase one. 70% RH:* This starts out just like any other time you have done it. Once you have harvested your bud and trimmed it to your liking, hang it in a cool dark place. This is where we will part from tradition. Allow it to hang until the buds begin to feel like they are drying (note the temps and rh as this will rarely be the same during subsequent harvests). They will start to lose their "softness" in favor of a slightly crispy texture. We don't want to allow it to dry until the stems snap. THIS IS WRONG! We want the stems to be flexible. Not totally soft, but not snapping, either. If allowed to dry until the stems snap we risk it drying too much and losing an opportunity to take full advantage of the cure window. You see once the bud reaches the 55% RH range, the cure is dead. No amount of moisture added will revive this. If you are a brown bag dryer you can still use this technique, although I no longer do. I feel it is unneccessary at this point in the drying process. Just make sure you do not over dry. Also, this is a perfect time to calibrate your hygrometers with your new calibrating kit. This phase may take anywhere from 2 to 7 days depending on ambient temp, RH and strain, etc. It is important to be right on top of this phase. Sometimes we will notice thinner stemmed buds getting done quicker. It is ok to take these first and put them in the jar. Just screw the cap on very loosely until the bulk of the bud joins it.



*Phase two. 65%+ to 70%RH:* This is where the numbers game begins to kick in. Once you have reached the crispy bud/flexible stem stage, it is time to jar it up. Now there are a few options here.. Really you can jar it up just like always. Only, fill your jar 3/4 to 4/5 full so you have room to use your hygrometer. You can leave it on the stem, stem free, whatever. I personally prefer it in it's finished state, no stems. You can leave just a few stems intact for the sake of testing stem flexibility. Also, with more stems comes more moisture. This may fit well with your style, but it also may play havoc if mold is present. Once your bud is in the jar drop in the hygrometer and cap it. Keep an eye on your meter for the next hour or so. What we are shooting for in this phase is 70% RH maximum. If you hit 71% or greater, you will have to take the bud out to dry more. If this seems a little tricky here, it is. The cure, even though we are still in the dry phase, has been happening to a small degree since the moment the bud was cut. Basically now we are juggling time with mold prevention. We want to avoid any instance of mold, but we want to get every second of cure time in that we can. The goal in this phase is to start at a 70% maximum RH and, in a timely and mold free manner, bring the RH down to about 65%. The reason I say "about" is that if there is an issue with mold (i.e. the crop was exposed to heavy mold before and/or during harvest) we may chose to take the RH even lower, like 62%. This won't leave a huge window for curing, but it will keep the bud safe. Ideally, however, 65% will do. Generally you can tell pretty quickly if the bud is still too wet as the hygrometer % will climb pretty quickly (rate: 1% per hour or faster). You will also notice, at this point, that the bud will feel "wetter". That's ok. The reason for this is that while the exposed part of the bud began to dry quicker than the inside during phase one, the inside of the bud and stems retained a good deal of their moisture. Once in the jars (phase two) that moisture can no longer be efficiently evaperated off and moved to a different area, being replaced by dryer air. Once you have determined the RH, which may take up to 24 hours, you can begin burping the jars. This can be done at a rate of one to two hours once or twice a day, depending on initial RH reading. Your room RH, temp, strain, exposure to mold and hygro readings will dictate this for you and wether to go faster or slower. Slower is always better, but precipitating factors, as stated, may trump this.. Also, at the end of this stage is where most commercial bud will hit the open market, if you are lucky. The bud at this stage should have that super sticky icky velvety feel and the 'bag appeal' will be at it's very highest.





*Phase three, 60% to 65% RH: *Your buds are in the jar and RH is 65% or less. Perfect. The object of the game, as stated before, is to slowly release the moisture from the jar over time. Your buds are now in the cure zone. At this point we are looking for a much slower release than phase two and will shift to a short burp once a week. Your buds will deliver a nice smoke at around 60%, so the speed at which this is done (which translates directly to duration of burpage) is entirely up to you. It is at this stage that small stems should snap in two. It is also in this stage that you will meet true stability, or equalization, in RH. What that means is that the amount of moisture in the stems is no longer disproportionate to the buds, and moisture transfer or persperation (sweat) slows dramatically. This also means it will take much longer to get a true reading from your Hygrometer. A true reading at this point might take up to 36 hours, but that's ok.

So, do you know what your idea of a perfect smoking bud is? If you have followed the phases as you have read them, then this is the stage where you can find out. It may be as specific as a stationary RH value, or even a "window" between different values. Everyone one should know there ideal smoking range. I prefer mine on a slightly dryer cure, say between 55 to 57%.




*Phase four - 55%+ to 60%RH:* Even though a true cure is far from over, your buds are truly ready to smoke if you wish. They are also ready to face long term storage. As stated before, the cure dies at -55%. It's ok for the cure to be dead if you have reached your desired cure level as later remoisturing can easily bring that bud back into your prefered smoking range. But, you can also continue the cure for long time periods and the trick to this is to stay above the 55% level. Unfortunately even claimed 'air tight' jars will allow bud to continue losing moisture over time. The trick here is to guarantee air tightness. Simon has suggested that he jars in air tight jars and double vacuum bags it as a way to ensure cure integrity. I am less picky. It is a good idea, though not neccessary, to leave a hygro in the jar and check it from time to time. I would start with once a week for the first month then, if everything is stable, once every month after that should suffice.

-end article

P.S. - Your welcome..


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## Spetznaaz (Jul 4, 2011)

Cheers for posting that, that was the article i originally used, but i couldn't find it again for some reason. 

I'll follow that to the T and hope for the best, cheers


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## dannyboy602 (Jul 4, 2011)

Shit CG you are one fast typing machine this morning


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## SimonD (Jul 5, 2011)

Spetznaaz said:


> Cheers for posting that, that was the article i originally used, but i couldn't find it again for some reason.


This is the original:

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=3112013#post3112013

I love how those folks gave me a backhanded credit. 



> *So atm, my bud is on 68% and most of the buds stems snap completely and feel like they are too dry to be curing.. i'm very worried i could lose out on potency/smell/flavour if i let the buds dry out too much, but i have read these instructions of the %'s numerous places, and people seem to agree on it..*


Are you using a CaliberIII or a calibrated HydrosetII to gauge humidity? I specially outline this in the tutorial. If not, all bets are off. 

Simon


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## Feelinit (Jul 5, 2011)

Simons old post is amazing. I have 5 caliberIII, and no more guessing.


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## Spetznaaz (Jul 6, 2011)

SimonD said:


> This is the original:
> 
> https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=3112013#post3112013
> 
> ...


Calibre III bud, i assume it's accurate as i have nothing to test it with.


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## SimonD (Jul 6, 2011)

Spetznaaz said:


> Calibre III bud, i assume it's accurate as i have nothing to test it with.


Yes, a Caliber III is accurate. 

Simon


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## Spetznaaz (Jul 6, 2011)

SimonD said:


> Yes, a Caliber III is accurate.
> 
> Simon


Even though some of the bud stems are snapping and humidity is 67% now, would you say i should still stick to the guide and continue with burping ntill i'm down to 65 then 60?

Cheers


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## SimonD (Jul 6, 2011)

Spetznaaz said:


> Even though some of the bud stems are snapping and humidity is 67% now, would you say i should still stick to the guide and continue with burping ntill i'm down to 65 then 60?
> 
> Cheers


How dense are the flowers? Are the stems snapping after a slight bend, or cracking in half? Typically, I suggest that folks follow the guide. It's essentially foolproof.

Simon


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## Spetznaaz (Jul 6, 2011)

SimonD said:


> How dense are the flowers? Are the stems snapping after a slight bend, or cracking in half? Typically, I suggest that folks follow the guide. It's essentially foolproof.
> 
> Simon


I'd say the buds are medium to high density, the stems snap after a slight bend and will crack in two if i bend them further - it's not every bud, the smaller buds seem to bend or snap but not in two.. like atm when i touch them i can't imagine mold possibly being able to form they are so dry, i havent open the jars today and it's on a steady 67%


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## SimonD (Jul 6, 2011)

Spetznaaz said:


> I'd say the buds are medium to high density, the stems snap after a slight bend and will crack in two if i bend them further - it's not every bud, the smaller buds seem to bend or snap but not in two.. like atm when i touch them i can't imagine mold possibly being able to form they are so dry, i havent open the jars today and it's on a steady 67%


Going on the above, you may want to separate the larger buds from the smaller flowers, as they're drying at different rates. Jar the smaller buds and note the humidity inside the container after ~24 hours. Bring the larger buds down to ~65% and watch the readings. They'll likely go up after a few days (maybe sooner).

Simon


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## r1tony (Jul 6, 2011)

One thing I learned was that no matter how long you try to dry/cure it will only go as low as your room relative humidity. I was trying to cure some last harvest and couldn't get it below 60% in jars and come to find out the room was at 60%. Got a dehumidifier and night and day difference, I think its even effecting the flowers in the flower room now as it lowered that humidity too. I use to be up near 65% in flower now its low 50s.


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## cannabisguru (Jul 6, 2011)

dannyboy602 said:


> Shit CG you are one fast typing machine this morning


HAH.. you weren't aware that I was able to type 550WPM ?!?! I thought you knew dan..


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## DanielTokes (Oct 5, 2012)

cannabisguru said:


> here ya go... read this article my friend. It will help you with your journey...
> 
> 
> Curing your post harvest blues..
> ...



Thanks man i printed this out so ill never forget it.


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## ilovethegreen (Oct 6, 2012)

it's not a science, dude. dry your buds perfectly and they will cure a lot better. just open the jar and give it a little shake


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## Trousers (Oct 6, 2012)

SimonD said:


> Going on the above, you may want to separate the larger buds from the smaller flowers, as they're drying at different rates. Jar the smaller buds and note the humidity inside the container after ~24 hours. Bring the larger buds down to ~65% and watch the readings. They'll likely go up after a few days (maybe sooner).
> 
> Simon


 
I switched to your method a couple years back. The more I learn about it, the easier it seems.
Once I had guests and it was tough to get to my jars when they needed it. One jar got in the 30s, I shut it, it swung back up to 60 and settled at 58 pretty quickly. It was just as good/flavorful/smelly as the other jars that took days longer. 

I'm not saying it is a good idea to dry it out that quickly in the jar, if it hadn't got back above 55, it would have screwed that jar. 
My point is, get it to stay at about 60 and you are golden. (I go with 58 then let it air dry a tiny bit before smoking).

I have taught this method to all my friends. Once they get over buying some rh meters, they love it. 
The biggest mistake I see is to put the weed in the jars too soon. If you do that, you get hay. 

Anyway, thanks. I went from doing it completely by feel. This is much easier.


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## GreenThumbsMcgee (Nov 25, 2014)

cannabisguru said:


> Curing your post harvest blues..


very good info here man. way to break it down and keep it simple.


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## GreenThumbsMcgee (Nov 25, 2014)

hey guys and gals..quick question on cureing... I got my buds cut, hung, dried, manicured, and now they are all jarred up and hold'n steady at 62%....up until now I had been burping the jar about twice a day for about a minute each burp, once in morn, once at nite. What I am wondering, since I realize slowly releasing the moisture is the trick to the cure, so how often should I be burping them jars now, and for how long is ideal to leave them open?...I have read and read, but everyone has a different opinion. I get it, this is one of those preference things, but i'd like to get it as close to right as possible. thanks for any input guys. puff puff pass


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## greenlikemoney (Nov 25, 2014)

Boveda 62 packs take all the worry out of curing. Best cure for the least amount of money.


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## shannonball (Nov 26, 2014)

does anyone ever vacuum seal them once they are cured out? we do and when we open a new jar you hear that little wisp of air rushing in and after about 20 minutes its smells like heaven again. We find everything stays fresh and nice. just asking.


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## ag843 (Nov 27, 2014)

greenlikemoney said:


> Boveda 62 packs take all the worry out of curing. Best cure for the least amount of money.


i just got my shipment in just in time for cure. i read a few diff opinions on here about these...was curious how are you using yours. are you still drying, burping etc or you just drying jarring and throwing in your packs?


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## Discoballs (Nov 29, 2014)

I prefer my smoke to be at a 55- 58% rH range.


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## blaz3r2 (Aug 1, 2016)

How do you use the boveda 62 packs. Do you put them in the jar as soon as the buds do or do you slowly drop the humidity then use the packs as reassurance to keep it steady?


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## Duke5280 (Aug 3, 2016)

I've been reading up on the curing process and it seems to me that a meter that measures the actual moisture content of the flower would be more beneficial and accurate then knowing the RH of a jar. The RH meters I've been reading about on here take several days to get an accurate reading and it's still a guessing game at that point.
I have a table top instrument that will give you "real time" data that can be used to know when your product should be removed from the drying process as well as knowing when the curing process is complete. It's an investment, but if you could be guaranteed a perfect crop on every harvest, wouldn't that be worth it?


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## kaydeezee (Oct 10, 2016)

Is 6 days drying at 20c and 55%rh on a drying rack to soon for the jars?? The steam's bend and cracked but not snap ' unless I wiggle it a little ?? In the jars holding under 70%rh so how long do I leave them before I burp??


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## Morriston55 (Oct 11, 2016)

Id be burping twice daily for about 15 min if the jars were sitting @ 70


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## outlier (Oct 11, 2016)

You don't want anything above 65% sitting in the jar for long. 70% for me means the gear needs to be aired straight away. I live in a humid climate though so mould is a much higher risk.

This is useful for checking your mould risk: http://www.dpcalc.org/

I don't use the days to mould, I just use it to identify risk in general.
http://www.dpcalc.org/
65% and below carries no risk. So once you are in the 60-65 band, you can leave them jarred for as long as you want. I think the 55-60 band is just precautionary.

Also be careful when adding buds to jars that have dried at different rates. One wet nug can still mould you out even with jar humidity in-check. As I have found the hard way


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## Dan Drews (Oct 11, 2016)

If the buds are still at 70% after a week in the jars, you're doing it wrong. If the buds in the jar are clumping together, dump them into a paper bag for 8 hours with the top folded over. Stick a hygrometer in the bag and see if it drops to 65% or less, then back in the jar for 8 - 12 hours. 

Now, are the buds in the jar still clumping together? Yes, back in a paper bag for 8 hours. You need to get down to 65% or below AND notice the buds are starting to 'clink' around in the jar as you spin them. Then you can open the jars, smell them, separate stickies, then put the tops back on the jars - do this twice a day.

Some of you are risking losing your buds to mold by closing them up in jars while they're still too wet. Be careful, don't ruin a perfectly good harvest and all your hard work. Once you do it right, it's really pretty easy. The wet buds are telling you something, be sure to LISTEN and REACT.


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## scrappus (Nov 30, 2016)

I keep mine +-1 at 43% Yes, I may have dry weed, but I was fooled by the 62%. I lost 1/3 my 1st crop to mold. But I dried it too fast, didn't care if bud stems snapped of the stalk rule because they felt so dry (crispy), which I was instructed didn't matter in my very humid environment. I repeated the crispy/hydrate routine again when I actually detected the mold.

My other two mistakes were also comical. My poor plants, right at harvest they started turning yellow from the bottom up, so I started giving them bat shit(nitrogen). It wasn't working. So I kept adding more. Someone said I "locked them". Had much better luck the next time.


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## Camdenlucas (Dec 12, 2016)

scrappus said:


> I keep mine +-1 at 43% Yes, I may have dry weed, but I was fooled by the 62%. I lost 1/3 my 1st crop to mold. But I dried it too fast, didn't care if bud stems snapped of the stalk rule because they felt so dry (crispy), which I was instructed didn't matter in my very humid environment. I repeated the crispy/hydrate routine again when I actually detected the mold.
> 
> My other two mistakes were also comical. My poor plants, right at harvest they started turning yellow from the bottom up, so I started giving them bat shit(nitrogen). It wasn't working. So I kept adding more. Someone said I "locked them". Had much better luck the next time.


I would strongly suggest the "stem snap" rule. Its a good rule of thumb especially for new growers who don't yet have a feel for when a bud is properly dried. Also you can start jarring the smaller buds and let the larger ones go an extra day or two to have a more even cure. This is the best way I have found to get great bud and avoid mold. Also, look into flushing your cannabis plants. This is a popular method done the last two weeks before harvest. You essentially stop feeding your plants anything for the last two weeks, just give it straight water until harvest. The plants will use up whatever nutrients it has left (which will cause some yellowing), this will increase the quality of flavor and smoke of your buds. Giving it nutrients and trying to keep it green up until harvest will make it harsher and give it a grassier smell. I only scratched the surface of this method, so I strongly suggest looking into it further.


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## Herbalremediestdot (Mar 15, 2019)

scrappus said:


> I keep mine +-1 at 43% Yes, I may have dry weed, but I was fooled by the 62%. I lost 1/3 my 1st crop to mold. But I dried it too fast, didn't care if bud stems snapped of the stalk rule because they felt so dry (crispy), which I was instructed didn't matter in my very humid environment. I repeated the crispy/hydrate routine again when I actually detected the mold.
> 
> My other two mistakes were also comical. My poor plants, right at harvest they started turning yellow from the bottom up, so I started giving them bat shit(nitrogen). It wasn't working. So I kept adding more. Someone said I "locked them". Had much better luck the next time.





scrappus said:


> I keep mine +-1 at 43% Yes, I may have dry weed, but I was fooled by the 62%. I lost 1/3 my 1st crop to mold. But I dried it too fast, didn't care if bud stems snapped of the stalk rule because they felt so dry (crispy), which I was instructed didn't matter in my very humid environment. I repeated the crispy/hydrate routine again when I actually detected the mold.
> 
> My other two mistakes were also comical. My poor plants, right at harvest they started turning yellow from the bottom up, so I started giving them bat shit(nitrogen). It wasn't working. So I kept adding more. Someone said I "locked them". Had much better luck the next time.


This is the worst advice i have ever heard. Added nitrogen first of all at anytime during flowering is ridiculous and secondly to add nutes within the last 2 weeks using soil or last week or so in hydro is absolutely ridiculous. Flush your cannabis. OMG nothing drives me more crazy and actually got me to start growing is all the amateurs growing and not flushing out the nutes. Absolutely senseless. You like smoking fertilizers? I prefer a white ash but if ypu like yours black as all hell then go for it. Just dont share.


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## SPLFreak808 (Mar 15, 2019)

Herbalremediestdot said:


> This is the worst advice i have ever heard. *Added nitrogen first of all at anytime during flowering is ridiculous* and secondly to add nutes within the last 2 weeks using soil or last week or so in hydro is absolutely ridiculous. *Flush your cannabis. OMG nothing drives me more crazy and actually got me to start growing is all the amateurs growing and not flushing out the nutes. A*bsolutely senseless. You like smoking fertilizers? I prefer a white ash but if ypu like yours black as all hell then go for it. Just dont share.


All that green bud isnt going to come from nothing, you actually do need some nitrogen while flowering cannabis or you'll end up with sticks & fluff because she ate herself up from week 1, you wont even make it with long runners.

Flushing doesn't prevent "black ash", feeding the right amounts & drying properly does.


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## MidcoastOrganic (Oct 17, 2019)

Herbalremediestdot said:


> This is the worst advice i have ever heard. Added nitrogen first of all at anytime during flowering is ridiculous and secondly to add nutes within the last 2 weeks using soil or last week or so in hydro is absolutely ridiculous. Flush your cannabis. OMG nothing drives me more crazy and actually got me to start growing is all the amateurs growing and not flushing out the nutes. Absolutely senseless. You like smoking fertilizers? I prefer a white ash but if ypu like yours black as all hell then go for it. Just dont share.


You're pretty harsh for someone spreading old wives tales. You can't flush nutrients out of the plant, that's not how it works. Starving the plant may serve other purposes, it definitely will not remove nutrients from the plant. I don't blame you though, that bull has been around forever, and will probably never go away.


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## stox (Mar 21, 2020)

Camdenlucas said:


> I would strongly suggest the "stem snap" rule. Its a good rule of thumb especially for new growers who don't yet have a feel for when a bud is properly dried. Also you can start jarring the smaller buds and let the larger ones go an extra day or two to have a more even cure. This is the best way I have found to get great bud and avoid mold. Also, look into flushing your cannabis plants. This is a popular method done the last two weeks before harvest. You essentially stop feeding your plants anything for the last two weeks, just give it straight water until harvest. The plants will use up whatever nutrients it has left (which will cause some yellowing), this will increase the quality of flavor and smoke of your buds. Giving it nutrients and trying to keep it green up until harvest will make it harsher and give it a grassier smell. I only scratched the surface of this method, so I strongly suggest looking into it further.


regarding the first post in the thread - I find this to be very confusing. 

can anyone else confirm how to cure the best?


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## Dee Muney (Oct 14, 2020)

Duke5280 said:


> I've been reading up on the curing process and it seems to me that a meter that measures the actual moisture content of the flower would be more beneficial and accurate then knowing the RH of a jar. The RH meters I've been reading about on here take several days to get an accurate reading and it's still a guessing game at that point.
> I have a table top instrument that will give you "real time" data that can be used to know when your product should be removed from the drying process as well as knowing when the curing process is complete. It's an investment, but if you could be guaranteed a perfect crop on every harvest, wouldn't that be worth it?


What table top instrument is this ?


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## victoryou (Nov 24, 2021)

Herbalremediestdot said:


> This is the worst advice i have ever heard. Added nitrogen first of all at anytime during flowering is ridiculous and secondly to add nutes within the last 2 weeks using soil or last week or so in hydro is absolutely ridiculous. Flush your cannabis. OMG nothing drives me more crazy and actually got me to start growing is all the amateurs growing and not flushing out the nutes. Absolutely senseless. You like smoking fertilizers? I prefer a white ash but if ypu like yours black as all hell then go for it. Just dont share.


Should i flush even when using pure organics?


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## HydroDawg421 (Nov 28, 2021)

I use a hygrometer and a 62% humidipak. Once it hits <65% RH it goes in the jar with the humidipak and hygrometer. Crack it once or twice a week. Easey peasey.


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## speero78 (Nov 21, 2022)

I honestly, have tried this method and in a way it works. It's a pain in the ass of a process, that only works on small qty. I mean it became impossible with 5 LB and above, I even bought the biggest size of mason jars you can think of. so over the past 25 years of doing this, with various techniques. I had to find something that gives the same result but cuts the material, and time, but mostly the fact that with this process no matter what you do, you won't get any possibility of MOLD. Period . and its works like magic but only if you have the space and some equipment.

What I understood is that we need to keep the moisture in the flower for a period of time. Until all that chlorophyll is broken down. and for that to happen moisture is needed.

You simply cut and hang and keep the Room/Tent at 60Rh/60F, you need both Humidifier, Dehumidifier, and fan, I found that equal-length branches, dry more evenly. I was shocked how slow they dry at only 60RH. It takes almost 14 to 18 days depending on the bud/stem size etc.

I hang them until I get a little kink or a tiny snap sound (no break in half). there I place them in bins and stack them at the 10 to 12-inch mark. drop a numbered Bluetooth hygrometer. so, I know which bin has that specific sensor on the app. I use Govee best ones I used so far(you can calibrate both temp/RH.
Then leave them for 2 weeks maybe closed airtight bin, maybe one burp. But I rarely do. After that kink. there is still a lot of moisture, even though it seems as if they over dried but trust me they never are. Generally, I have a Rh Sensor in the bin, they are steady at 58 to 59 Rh%.

After 2 weeks, I do the final trim and remove all stems. and place them in a large airtight food grade bin, with a sensor and keep a close eye on the readings for the next month or so. and it’s always between 56% and 58% Rh.
But I must say that its expensive when it comes to electricity consumption.
Yet, you are drying and curing in one go. when you pick them to place in the bin, after the kink, they are still somehow velvety like feel.

To Double check that I am in the sweet spot. I monitor the Ambient RH when i bin the flower.
Let us say; its 63 rh%, I then watch the bin sensor and you typically see the readings go from 63 rh% down instead of up (bin closed). and it should stop at 58 rh%. if it goes lower, you over dried them. and it’s still ok because you can rehydrate them. because at this point, you are already 33 days in and had all the moisture needed to cure them. At this point it’s up to you to see how dry you need them for smoke ready.

Note: Some strains do better with an extra month of cure etc., but some are ready to smoke by the time you open that bin (35days after cut).
This way removes all the jar opening labor/hassle and any possibility of mold.
Anyway, hope this helps.


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