# Fogger to Treat Spider Mite



## MrMeanGreen (Jan 26, 2012)

Right.... I am ready to shoot myself. I have an ongoing battle with spidermite, tried everything and the littoe bastards just keep coming back. My problem is that I have a perpetual grow of 12 plants so my tent is never empty and I can't give the tent a good clean. All I seem to be doing is managing the fuckers but never eradicating them. It's hard work trying to treat 12 well developed plants.

My question....... before I go and get mysef a fogger, can they be used to apply mite treatments and are they effective.

Thanks in advance


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## scroglodyte (Jan 26, 2012)

ladybugs......


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## Biological Graffity (Jan 26, 2012)

dr Doom sells foggers for mites, more like a fog bomb...make sure to do at least 3 treatments about 5 days appart...


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## scroglodyte (Jan 26, 2012)

azamax soil drench.....see subcool's vid on y/t


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## blueredneck (Jan 26, 2012)

hmmmmm jus reading through this and i couldnt help but reply. i had spidermite a couple of months ago, so went to the hydroshop n asked for the best solution, he pulled out a bottle of something????? which was £2.50 for 1ml. i bought 4ml, to use he said to dilute 1ml to 1 litre of water and soak ur plants with a spray bottle (mister)30 mins before lights go out, so i did, checked em the next day and wollah no mites. i dnt know wat it was called but it works, also i was advised to use 3 applications 5 days apart which i dnt do, if you find this stuff beware it smells toxic and try not to breathe it in or get it on your skin. i recommend wear gloves and mask........


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## SCARHOLE (Jan 26, 2012)

Imidocloprid / Bayer advanced.
Its Synthetic nicotine.
1 teatment in the soil for the life of plants its systemic.

Deadly in parts per billion to bugs.
Very safe to use, about like tobacco juice.
Shit even stoped the grasshopper hordes outdoors here.


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## MrMeanGreen (Jan 26, 2012)

SCARHOLE said:


> Imidocloprid / Bayer advanced.
> Its Synthetic nicotine.
> 1 teatment in the soil for the life of plants its systemic.
> 
> ...


Do you have a generic brand name, can find info on *Imidocloprid* but struggling to find a supplier using that name.

Thanx


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## VICTORYGARDENSHYDRO (Jan 26, 2012)

MrMeanGreen said:


> Do you have a generic brand name, can find info on *Imidocloprid* but struggling to find a supplier using that name.
> 
> Thanx


here is what your looking for
http://www.sunlightsupply.com/p-13975-bonide-systemic-insecticide-rtu.aspx


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## svtzxtreme (Jan 26, 2012)

I've heard of people using a product called Liquid Lady Budy
it's all organic and works...

the mfg site is http://www.liquidladybug.com/


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## VICTORYGARDENSHYDRO (Jan 26, 2012)

svtzxtreme said:


> I've heard of people using a product called Liquid Lady Budy
> it's all organic and works...
> 
> the mfg site is http://www.liquidladybug.com/


doesn't work very good!!!
mighty wash works better


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## VICTORYGARDENSHYDRO (Jan 26, 2012)

scroglodyte said:


> azamax soil drench.....see subcool's vid on y/t


azamax soil drench is for fungus gnats, you can use azamax as a spray for prevention of mites though.


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## cowboylogic (Jan 26, 2012)

^^^^^SO NOT TRUE, YOU DONT HAVE TO START OVER^^^^^^^


First treatment Doktor Doom fogger. Step 2: 3 days later DD bomb again. Repeat step 2 two more times at 3 day intervals, breeding cycle broke and mites gone for good....


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## PetFlora (Jan 26, 2012)

diatomaceous earth. cheap effective and non toxic


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## VICTORYGARDENSHYDRO (Jan 26, 2012)

your both right and wrong, you need to break the cycle, but they become immune to chemicals, you need to use different stuff and use them often. Like stated above, it is damn near impossible to get every egg, they get on your clothes,pets,walls,floors,carpets and can lie dormant and then just explode. you have to wage a war and keep there numbers down and change the way you do things. treat your room like a lab,never wear your day clothes,shoes in your room. have clothes that you only wear in your lab. use different treatments and eventually you can win.it isn't easy though


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## Warlock1369 (Jan 26, 2012)

Mighty wash works great and if used regularly will get rid of them and used in a fogger would work best


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## skunkd0c (Jan 26, 2012)

*Whitmire Pytethrum TR Micro Total Release Insecticide*

get some kind of premium pytethrum fogger , they come in a convenient spray can too
these things work very well, 
you can get some that will leave microscopic little spray bubbles / droplets of pytethrum all over the plants, 
like millions of little traps of poision waiting to kill the little spider fuckers , 
the spider mites simply can not out number these microscopic particles and will lose the battle quickly 

its not a cheap solution these ready made micro sprays are quite expensive , 
if you have lots of plants look for another delivery method , but of a few plants its perfect 

peace


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## MrMeanGreen (Jan 26, 2012)

LOL best and quickest response I have had from a thread, look on the bright side, they don't discriminate.

So this fella will work fine 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mist-Maker-400ml-hr-Humidifier-Hydophonics-Mist-maker-/320593978265?pt=UK_HomeGarden_Garden_PlantsSeedsBulbs_JN&hash=item4aa4e3e399

My next question is amounts that makes the fogger effective. I want to use canna cure but its a bit on the expensive side £20 / litre (concentrate) which dilutes to 3.5 litres. In the past I have used upwards of 4l (folair) of treatment to cover all 12 plants and I am fucked if I am gonna use 4l of canna cure every treatment. So how much when used in a fogger will be effective??


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## woodsmaneh! (Jan 26, 2012)

Some right answers and lots of bull ^^^^^^

Spider mites are very hard to kill and when attacked they breed like crazy. You need a sistemic killer to do the job. I use Avid and it works,
here is a site but you can get the stuff in most place.

http://rosemania.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/page9.html


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## MrMeanGreen (Jan 26, 2012)

woodsmaneh! said:


> Some right answers and lots of bull ^^^^^^
> 
> Spider mites are very hard to kill and when attacked they breed like crazy. You need a sistemic killer to do the job. I use Avid and it works,
> here is a site but you can get the stuff in most place.
> ...


I am 6 weeks into flower on half the tent and 2 weeks on the other. Any bud effect with this gear (systemic treatment)??


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## VICTORYGARDENSHYDRO (Jan 26, 2012)

woodsmaneh! said:


> Some right answers and lots of bull ^^^^^^
> 
> Spider mites are very hard to kill and when attacked they breed like crazy. You need a sistemic killer to do the job. I use Avid and it works,
> here is a site but you can get the stuff in most place.
> ...


 VERY expensive for every one of them and they all require the use of a respirator, Why not just get some raid and spray? most of them are also for plants that aren't eaten or smoked.just sayin


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## woodsmaneh! (Jan 26, 2012)

What's the cost of a failed grow?

Most hydro shops sell it by the ml. so I pay 50$ for 4 ml.

Read something about these little fuckers and then you will understand what your up against.

I will take any other bug or plant issue over Spider mites and you thought cockroaches were tuff.

Here is a start

*Spider Mites*
by W.S. Cranshaw and D.C. Sclar [SUP]1[/SUP] (11/06)
*Quick Facts...*

Spider mites are common plant pests. Symptoms of injury include flecking, discoloration (bronzing) and scorching of leaves. Injury can lead to leaf loss and even plant death.
Natural enemies include small lady beetles, predatory mites, minute pirate bugs, big-eyed bugs and predatory thrips.
One reason that spider mites become a problem is insecticides that kill their natural predators.
Irrigation and moisture management can be important cultural controls for spider mites.


Spider mites are common pest problems on many plants around yards and gardens in Colorado. Injury is caused as they feed, bruising the cells with their small, whiplike mouthparts and ingesting the sap. Damaged areas typically appear marked with many small, light flecks, giving the plant a somewhat speckled appearance.
Following severe infestations, leaves become discolored, producing an unthrifty gray or bronze look to the plant. Leaves and needles may ultimately become scorched and drop prematurely. Spider mites frequently kill plants or cause serious stress to them.
Spider mites (Family: Tetranychidae) are classed as a type of arachnid, relatives of insects that also includes spiders, ticks, daddy-longlegs and scorpions. Spider mites are small and often difficult to see with the unaided eye. Their colors range from red and brown to yellow and green, depending on the species of spider mite and seasonal changes in their appearance.
Many spider mites produce webbing, particularly when they occur in high populations. This webbing gives the mites and their eggs some protection from natural enemies and environmental fluctuations. Webbing produced by spiders, as well as fluff produced by cottonwoods, often is confused with the webbing of spider mites.
The most important spider mite is the *twospotted spider mite* (_Tetranychus urticae_). This mite attacks a wide range of garden plants, including many vegetables (e.g., beans, eggplant), fruits (e.g., raspberries, currants, pear) and flowers. The twospotted spider mite is also the most important species on house plants. It is a prolific producer of webbing.
Evergreens tend to host other mites, notably the spruce spider mite (_Oligonychus ununguis_) on spruce and juniper,_Oligonychus subnudus_ on pines, and _Platytetranychus libocedri _on arborvitae and juniper. Honeylocust, particularly those in drier sites, are almost invariably infested with the honeylocust spider mite (_Platytetranychus multidigituli_). Other mites may affect shade trees such as elm, mountain ash and oak.
Another complex of mites is associated with turfgrass, including the clover mite and Banks grass mite. These are discussed separately in fact sheet 5.505, _Clover and Other Mites of Turfgrass_. Clover mites also are the common mite that enters homes in fall and spring, sometimes creating significant nuisance problems in the process.

Figure 2: Twospotted spider mites, with eggs.

*Life History and Habits*
Spider mites develop from eggs, which usually are laid near the veins of leaves during the growing season. Most spider mite eggs are round and extremely large in proportion to the size of the mother. After egg hatch, the old egg shells remain and can be useful in diagnosing spider mite problems.
There is some variation in the habits of the different mites that attack garden plants, trees and shrubs. Outdoors, the twospotted spider mite and honeylocust spider mite survive winter as adults hidden in protected areas such as bark cracks, bud scales or under debris around the garden. Other mites survive the cool season in the egg stage. As winter approaches, most mites change color, often turning more red or orange. This habit may be why they are sometimes called "red spiders."
Most spider mite activity peaks during the warmer months. They can develop rapidly during this time, becoming full-grown in as little as a week after eggs hatch. After mating, mature females may produce a dozen eggs daily for a couple of weeks. The fast development rate and high egg production can lead to extremely rapid increases in mite populations.
Other species of spider mites are most active during the cooler periods of the growing season, in spring and fall. This includes the spruce spider mite and most of the mites that can damage turfgrass. These cool-season spider mites may cease development and produce dormant eggs to survive hot summer weather.
Dry conditions greatly favor all spider mites, an important reason why they are so important in the more arid areas of the country. They feed more under dry conditions, as the lower humidity allows them to evaporate excess water they excrete. At the same time, most of their natural enemies require more humid conditions and are stressed by arid conditions. Furthermore, plants stressed by drought can produce changes in their chemistry that make them more nutritious to spider mites.
*Control*
*Biological Controls*
Various insects and predatory mites feed on spider mites and provide a high level of natural control. One group of small, dark-colored lady beetles known as the "spider mite destroyers" (_Stethorus_ species) are specialized predators of spider mites. Minute pirate bugs, big-eyed bugs (_Geocoris_ species) and predatory thrips can be important natural enemies.
A great many mites in the family Phytoseiidae are predators of spider mites. In addition to those that occur naturally, some of these are produced in commercial insectaries for release as biological controls. Among those most commonly sold via mail order are _Galendromus occidentalis_, _Phytoseiulus persimilis_, _Mesoseiulus longipes_ and _Neoseiulus californicus_. Although these have been successful in control of spider mites on interior plants, effective use outdoors has not been demonstrated in Colorado. Predatory mites often have fairly high requirements for humidity, which can be limiting. Most suppliers provide information regarding use of the predator mites that they carry.
One reason that spider mites become problems in yards and gardens is the use of insecticides that destroy their natural enemies. For example, carbaryl (Sevin) devastates most spider mite natural enemies and can greatly contribute to spider mite outbreaks. Malathion can aggravate some spider mite problems, despite being advertised frequently as effective for mite control. Soil applications of the systemic insecticide imidacloprid (Merit, Marathon) have also contributed to some spider mite outbreaks.

Figure 3: Twospotted spider mite injury to eggplant.
Figure 4: "Spider mite destroyer" lady beetle.
Figure 5: Minute pirate bug.

*Water Management*
Adequate watering of plants during dry conditions can limit the importance of drought stress on spider mite outbreaks. Periodic hosing of plants with a forceful jet of water can physically remove and kill many mites, as well as remove the dust that collects on foliage and interferes with mite predators. Disruption of the webbing also may delay egg laying until new webbing is produced. Sometimes, small changes where mite-susceptible plants are located or how they are watered can greatly influence their susceptibility to spider mite damage.
*Chemical Controls*
Chemical control of spider mites generally involves pesticides that are specifically developed for spider mite control (_miticides_ or _acaricides_). Few insecticides are effective for spider mites and many even aggravate problems. Furthermore, strains of spider mites resistant to pesticides frequently develop, making control difficult. Because most miticides do not affect eggs, a repeat application at an approximately 10- to 14-day interval is usually needed for control. Table 1 includes a summary of pesticides that may be useful for managing spider mites.
*Control of Spider Mites on House Plants*
Control on house plants can be particularly frustrating. There generally are no biological controls and few effective chemical controls (primarily soaps and horticultural oils). When attempting control, treat all susceptible house plants at the same time. Trim, bag and remove heavily infested leaves and discard severely infested plants. Periodically hose small plants in the sink or shower. Wipe leaves of larger plants with a soft, damp cloth. Reapply these treatments at one- to two-week intervals as long as populations persist.



*Table 1: Pesticides useful to control spider mites in yards and gardens.*
 *Active Ingredient*
*Trade Name(s)*
*Comments*
acephate
Orthene, certain Isotox formulations
Insecticide with some effectiveness against spider mites. Systemic.
abamectin
Avid
For commercial use only on ornamental plants. Primarily effective against twospotted spider mite; less effective against mites on conifers. Limited systemic movement.
bifenthrin
Talstar, others
Insecticide with good miticide activity.
hexythiazox
Hexygon
For commercial use only on ornamental plants. Selective miticide that affects developing stages and eggs only. One application per season label restriction.
horticultural oils
Sunspray, others
Used at the "summer oil" rate (2 percent), oils are perhaps the most effective miticide available for home use.
insecticidal soap
several
Marginally effective against twospotted spider mite and where webbing prevents penetration. Broadly labeled.
spiromesifan
Forbid
For commercial use only on ornamental plants. Selective against mites and conserves natural enemies.
sulfur
various
Generally sold in dust formulation for control of various fungal diseases and some mites on some ornamental and vegetable crops.


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## woodsmaneh! (Jan 26, 2012)

*AzaMax&#8482;*

*Botanical Insecticide, Miticide, and Nematicide*

AzaMax is a natural product with a broad spectrum of pest control and broad plant applications. AzaMax is made from special Azadirachtin Technical extracted using patented extraction technology from Neem, a tree known for it&#8217;s innumerable benefits. AzaMax contains Azadirachtin A&B as active ingredients and more than 100 limonoids from it&#8217;s special technology. The special feature of AzaMax is that it does not use hard chemical solvents and uses food grade formulation ingredients. AzaMax is licensed in all 50 states.
AzaMax is an antifeedant and insect growth regulator and controls pests through starvation and growth disruption. AzaMax effectively controls spider mites, thrips, fungus gnats, aphids, whiteflies, leaf miners, worms, beetles, leafhoppers, scales, mealy bugs, nematodes and other soil borne pests. Best of all, AzaMax can be applied up to the time or day of harvest. The product is exempted from residue tolerance, thus there is no harmful residue on veggies, fruits, herbs and flowers etc. Truly, AzaMax is a product of Nature in tune with Technology.
Lable and directions

http://www.google.ca/search?hl=&q=azamax+mixing&sourceid=navclient-ff&rlz=1B3GGLL_en-GBCA380CA380&ie=UTF-8&aq=4&oq=Azamax


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## sweetswisher (Jan 26, 2012)

Get a Hotshot pest strip man


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## alphawolf.hack (Jan 26, 2012)

fogger works but not long term and they build a resistance quickly to pesticide. i use this method i satrt with a fogger i spray neem oil daily and rinse with regular water. every 3 days for 2 weeks i spray with matholon. then every 3 days of the next 2 weeks i spray pyretrins. then back to matholon each generation of mites will build a resistance to the pesticide used to kill it but they will lose the strength against another chemical.


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## MrMeanGreen (Jan 26, 2012)

I will reword my question........ Does anybody know the equivalent amounts to put in a fogger to achieve the same coverage as folair spraying? ie if I use 3 litres spraying (alot of waste) how much will I need to put in the fogger??


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## MrMeanGreen (Jan 27, 2012)

bump bump bump


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## stephaniesloan (Jan 27, 2012)

get a liguid spray like mighty wash or liquid ladybug, buy a load of hanging sticky fly traps, 1 for each plant, after you feed them place the sticky traps in a ring around the base of your plant on the soil. this stops mites escaping when you spray. make sure you do from the inside of the sticky trap on the soil up the stem and do the entire plant.


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## ink the world (Jan 27, 2012)

Got mites a few months ago after receiving clones from a friend. First time I had them in nearly 2 decades.

Took some time and vigilance but I haven't had a mite in a while now.
Spray once a week w/ Docdoom aerosol spray ( not fogger) then spray w/ neem oil every other day. Make sure u get the bottoms of the leaves

I still spray w/ Neem every other day, never wanna see the bastards again. I'm perpetual too and give them a spray up to week 2 of flowering. Dont really wanna spray anything on flowers after week 2 if flowering


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## alphawolf.hack (Jan 27, 2012)

listen i have fucked up so many times with spider mite invasions. if that it happens you will either (a) start over (b)clean every plant by hand every day for 2 weeks (c) fuck getting good bud and kill all living bugs then wait and kill them as they hatch using pesticide.(d)infest house w/ ladybugs and find them all the time in cups and sink and windows well every where. i had problems with spidermites one time on a large scale and i was lucky all my plants where early into flower the other time was my second grow i ended up just starting over.


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## hippy132 (Jan 29, 2012)

So, got spider mites have two weeks left and still spraying, how can we insure tent and room are clean before next grow.


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## alphawolf.hack (Jan 29, 2012)

time for the big bleach and soap wash down. wash all surfaces and eliminate any plant material. wash pots, reflector, ducting, prefilter, buckets spray bottle nute bottles everything just work thru everything and think about getting a lab coat just for going in the grow room.


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## donutpunched (Jan 29, 2012)

get a fogger, forbid, avid and floramite.... alternate... all done


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