DIY LED Help

Positivity

Well-Known Member
There was a post once comparing the heatsink USA t slot vs makers led heatsink. The heatsink USA version was a lot beefier and would run much cooler. They both would leave a small gap under the cobs though which could be a little problematic.

I'd way prefer a blank and flat bottom sanded flat...with cobs you don't need that many small led slots

But...with all the makers options you could probably still put together a nice light
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
Yeah..just keep it simple if your on a tight budget. CPU cooler and bridgelux or vero cob. Can always add to it later..

Point of DIY really is to use better leds than commercially available. The results from a cheaper led may not be as worth the time

If you really want to add other colors in than a bit larger heatsink may be better

Predrilled heatsinks from reefledlights.com can fit stars and the 3070 or 3590 with ideal cob holder...here's an example.

View attachment 3258040 View attachment 3258042 View attachment 3258043

It will cost a little more than a CPU cooler build though..but makes color additions pretty easy


The different designs are growing...lots to choose from. Just make sure a bridgelux or cree cob is used along with a meanwell driver for really good results
How much are we talking, coin wise, bruv?? Is there a big difference between going the budget route vs the ideal route?? Thanks..
I like the simplicity of putting all the lights on one heat sink and eliminating the cpu if possible
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
The 10inch profile by 10inch long square sinks (with 0.3" base and 1" tall fins) I used for the UFO killers cost about 31 bucks each at heatsinkusa.

Imo, it's both better and cheaper than getting 4 artic 11s. Awesome sinks. I have 4 vero 18 running at 700mA.

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churchhaze

Well-Known Member
Active cooling is optional at 80W electric dissipation, although lifespan and efficiency go up with a light breeze.

I have a 90mm fan sitting on one of them at about .2A to keep it cool, and it's warm to the touch. It'd be nice if it covered all the fins, but a 90mm is what I have laying around right now and it works.

And just passively cooled? How do you have your driver(s) situated?
 
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churchhaze

Well-Known Member
I'm probably going to screw it to a wooden 2x2 on the inside and run DC up to the lights. You could put it on top of the lights too, but I'm better at electronics than mechanical design. It'd probably tip over if i tried to do it!

Is the driver located outside of grow space? I want to mount my drivers on top of my passively cooled heatsinks.
 

mauricem00

Well-Known Member
for the DIYers here full spectrum COBs are on sale for the next 5 days.http://www.aliexpress.com/store/121917 these are the same units used in some expensive grow lights and are available fro 3 to 200 watts. I have done business with this company in the past and was very happy with the service. I am not a beta tester for them and have no relationship with them except as a customer.these are similar to white leds in that they use a blue diode (450nm) to drive phosphor however unlike white leds that peak at 560-610 NM these peak at 650nm making them more suitable for plant growth ( less wasted energy in the green spectrum)
 

DonPetro

Well-Known Member
@DonTesla you had asked about cost. Here is a break down(prices include all applicable fees):
•Arctic Alpine 11 Plus ×2: $23/ea
•Aluminum heatsinks 220mm×100mm×18mm ×2: $35/lot
Bridgelux 3w 660nm red emitters ×10: $13/lot
•MeanWell driver APC-16-700 ×1: $12
•Bridgelux Vero18 5000k COB ×2: $24/ea
MeanWell driver LPC-35-1050 ×2: $23/ea
•Misc. hardware, wire, tools, etc.: $40-50

Total: $250

Seems like alot considering how small it will be. Should be pretty bright though i would think. The design may turn out to be somewhat crude compared to some of the work going on by others in this forum. However, i think it will turn out ok and the design will double as functionality with the AA 11's blowing into or at least at the passive sinks.
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
d
@DonTesla you had asked about cost. Here is a break down(prices include all applicable fees):
•Arctic Alpine 11 Plus ×2: $23/ea
•Aluminum heatsinks 220mm×100mm×18mm ×2: $35/lot
Bridgelux 3w 660nm red emitters ×10: $13/lot
•MeanWell driver APC-16-700 ×1: $12
•Bridgelux Vero18 5000k COB ×2: $24/ea
MeanWell driver LPC-35-1050 ×2: $23/ea
•Misc. hardware, wire, tools, etc.: $40-50

Total: $250

Seems like alot considering how small it will be. Should be pretty bright though i would think. The design may turn out to be somewhat crude compared to some of the work going on by others in this forum. However, i think it will turn out ok and the design will double as functionality with the AA 11's blowing into or at least at the passive sinks.

so one driver for the reds, and one driver for each of the Vero's? Can we run in parallel? Im kinda feeling the big heatsink better since the room is so big now, but i gotta understand ALL of this better, lol
 

DonPetro

Well-Known Member
d



so one driver for the reds, and one driver for each of the Vero's? Can we run in parallel? Im kinda feeling the big heatsink better since the room is so big now, but i gotta understand ALL of this better, lol
The design is based mostly from my desire to do something different while still being effective. Think: soil mix.
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
I think 31 for the big sink, 60 or so for the cobs, and 60 for the supply., so 150 or so? More if you include the wire, picture hangers, screws, etc.

If you're planning on running reds at 700mA, you should consider running the vero 18 at 700mA too, then you could run them in series on the same supply, assuming you had the extra voltage.

I like the efficiency of 700mA vs 1050mA anyway, although on the opposite end @SomeGuy has his drawing about 1.5A i think, which is slightly less efficient, but way cheaper to setup. His results at 1500mA have been very encouraging so I'm looking forward to seeing what 700mA can do.
 
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