COB build flickering again..

Perfect, your on your way Al. What a freaking awesome community we have to learn from. Your going to be a flickering SME before much longer

Just to make sure. Your driver has the external dim wires correct?

Getgrowingson said:

Just to make sure. Your driver has the external dim wires correct?

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It does. It's the hlg-185-c1050 B model

@SupraSPL @Getgrowingson , Do I need to change the port that the red or black leads are in on the meter?

Al Yamoni said:

@SupraSPL @Getgrowingson , Do I need to change the port that the red or black leads are in on the meter?

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Usually yes. There will be a different port that will have A on it instead of V and the omega sign

Make sure you put it on the largest number for A

Also beware the alligator clips, they can short to heatsink, short to each other and can cause intermittent connection while testing. I have had to resort to custom made leads with wrapped slide connectors for testing current to try and get a solid safe connection that will maintain the circuit if moved during testing.

Getgrowingson said:

Make sure you put it on the largest number for A

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So just to make sure I'm understanding correctly..

This is how I have had it prior to this test..

Black=COM red=V(ohm)ma


This is how I need it for the current test?
Black=COM red=10ADC

SupraSPL said:

Also beware the alligator clips, they can short to heatsink, short to each other and can cause intermittent connection while testing. I have had to resort to custom made leads with wrapped slide connectors for testing current to try and get a solid safe connection that will maintain the circuit if moved during testing.

Click to expand...

@SupraSPL thanks for the tip, you and @Getgrowingson support has propelled me headlong into learning all of this and I am truly thankful for that.
Does this look like I'll have any of the problems you mentioned?

Right about the DMM, that set of terminals has an internal fuse rated at 10 amps. I was going to suggest cardboard for temporary insulation but it looks like you have it under control.

Neither of the leads are touching the ground, they are suspended mid air

sanjuan said:

Right about the DMM, that set of terminals has an internal fuse rated at 10 amps.

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DMM??
EDIT: sorry, still a novice with most of this stuff..

sanjuan said:

Right about the DMM, that set of terminals has an internal fuse rated at 10 amps. I was going to suggest cardboard for temporary insulation but it looks like you have it under control.

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Thank you!

I just want to make sure I have the terminals in the right ports on the meter..

Flip it! Seriously AL your good to go. Red in the 10 ADC, Black in COM. Wires are correct. I've missed a big section of action but I'm blamin' those COB holders. I just never trusted that design. We'll see.
Well?

Turned it on... Nothing at all. The fans go obviously but the lights are a no. And no read out on the meter. So I unhooked the leads and fixed the cut and checked the light.. Still works, still flickers. Removed the alligator clips and wrapped the wire around the leads with pliers and then electrical taped them up. Turned it on and no lights and no read out again...

Any ideas?

FranJan said:

Flip it! Seriously AL your good to go. Red in the 10 ADC, Black in COM. Wires are correct. I've missed a big section of action but I'm blamin' those COB holders. I just never trusted that design. We'll see.
Well?

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I'll solder the damned things then. I'm actually pretty good with a gun.. If it's the holders I'll be pissed! I've drilled and tapped ten of those fuckers!

Al Yamoni said:

I'll solder the damned things then. I'm actually pretty good with a gun.. If it's the holders I'll be pissed! I've drilled and tapped ten of those fuckers!

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I didn't mean to distract you AL. There is a way to check your connections with the DMM but let's see what your amperage is first. And since Sup is online I'd do it soon .

I would connect positive (red) lead from DMM to positive wire at driver then connect negative (black) lead from DMM to first COB's positive connection and try again.

FranJan said:

I didn't mean to distract you AL. There is a way to check your connections with the DMM but let's see what your amperage is first. And since Sup is online I'd do it soon .

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I can't get the lights to turn on or the meter to read with the meter inline.. I assume that DMM = Multimeter?