Who Needs Help?Ask Here..

ElectricPineapple said:

hey riddleme, ive vegged 3 of my plants for 9 weeks and the other 3 for6 1/2 weeks, and one 51/2 weeks. they are all going into flowering next week. you can check my sig for pictures.


i have a 600w HPS and will be adding a 1000w HPS 3 weeks into flowering, for a total of 1600w of flowering. i have used uncle bens method for toping to get 4 colas on all of the plants to increase yield.

they are in 5 gallon buckets with FFOF, extra earthworm castings, fresh btw, myco fungi, epsom salt, with 40% coco and added perlite.

i am using the fox farm trio soluble pack, open sesame, beastie bloomz, and cha ching, for my flowering nutes. will also be adding humic acid, within a week or so in their next watering.

my question is, if they are let out to their full maturity i.e. weight and potency potential is reached, what do you think my weight could be, this is my first grow but have a botany background, along with doing countless hours of research throughout and before this grow.

that is with 1600w of HO HPS, Co2 at 1500 ppm during flowering, temps 83-85. im hoping for around 2- 2.5 pounds. do you think this is a plausible feat? the strains are 3 unknown, 2 Super Lemon Haze, 1 Kaya 47, and 1 White widow.

pine

Click to expand...

Very early in this thread I said I would play the yield guessing game, yield questions are the most rediculous on this forumas there are way to many variables for anyone to truely guess the outcome,, That said,,,,,,,,,

It is totally possible to reach your goal if properly grown, but I disagree with how your going about it IMO it would be better to use Dolomite over Epsom salts and I would not go with organic FF stuff

sonar said:

Do these plants look healthy to you guys? They are a little under 3 weeks old and growing under T8 fluoros. My lower leaves are turning yellow and dying. I know this is suppose to happen, but wasn't expecting it so soon. This is going to be an outdoor grow, I'm just starting them inside. Was planning on moving them to their permanent home in the next few days. They seem a little small to me for almost 3 weeks, so hopefully they take off once they hit the sun. Any suggestions would be great.

View attachment 910775

Click to expand...

As was already said these plants want N ,,they look healthy other than that

sonar said:

Well when I first noticed it about a week ago I freaked out and lightly fed them. All I had was Schultz 15-30-15 all purpose plant food so I mixed it about 1/4 strength and very lightly fed. Since then the Botanicare I ordered arrived but I haven't used it yet. I really don't think it is N deficiency though, since it appeared when they were only about 2 weeks old. I'm not sure what to think. I'm using filtered tap water which I let sit for at least a day so my water should be good. I'm using MG potting mix since that's all I have access to, but I thoroughly sifted through it and picked out all those little pellets. My temp is a steady 72 degrees and my rh is usually around 50% so the only other thing I can think of is soil pH. This soil has a lot of peat moss, so I'm thinking it may be a little on the acidic side, but I don't have a tester. I know there are so many things that can cause yellowing of lower leaves, but is low pH one of them? Like I said, I'm moving them outdoors soon, so hopefully this clears up when I transplant them. I have 2x2 holes dug and filled with the MG organic garden soil mixed with about 30% perlite, which still isn't the best but is probably better than the potting mix.

Click to expand...

Temp is a bit low for this time but not the problem, you can fix low soil ph by adding Dolomite to your soil when you transplant (1 tablespoon per gallon of soil), I would give em a 1/2 strength dose of those nutes now

Jubei485 said:

Hope you guys can help. I'm looking for bigger yields. I'm getting about 1/2 oz a plant. I was looking into some advance nutes and was thinkg on picking up Vooddo Juice but if there is another out there I can buy for bigger and better buds I would rather go that that. I've also seen a medical grow where the flowering plants had nothing but top buds for the most part and they look large. would I getting bigger plants with smarter trimming? Right now I'm using a mix or organic grow nutes. A mix of Grow, Bloom, and growth Stimulator along with blackstrap molasses. I have one 600w hps. I have no co2 setup and my humidity is low, from 30% to 60%. My room drops 10 degrees at night. I have 8 plants under the light at any givin time but would like to increase that. My Ceiling is almost 6 feet. I'm growing AK-47, white widow, bubble gum, purple kush. Just the AK-47 in flower now. also I'm having power problems that don't seem to make any sence. Plugs and lights are going off in my kitchen, half my bedroom and half my living room. The brackers arn't being triped and it's not affecting the other two bedrooms, halls, bathroom or basement/ growroom. It seems to happen at night more then any other time. It almost seems at time like there isn't enought power coming into the house. but not really sure. Don't really want to call the power company.

Click to expand...

Can't help ya with the electric/lights problem and your question is a classic example of not getting it, you want higher yields so your gonna buy into the hype and start throwing a bunch of snake oils at your plants, Higher yields has nothing to do with what you feed, it is about how you feed. Higher yields come from experience and skill and growing the plants properly, having your garden fine tuned to allow the plants to thrive, I have taught exactly how to do this in my threads so not gona repeat it here

Are you ozonenating you water with water stones? I'm confussed as to the little white pellets you removed. You didn't take the pearl-light too?

riddleme,

i definitely know and understand that the yield guessing game is dumb and there is no way to be accurate, because of the many variables.

i was procuring as to if i had the right amount of watts to get the yield i want, and if it was possible. that is an average of .75g a watt. i figured i could get a little more than the newb recommended half gram a watt.

i know there are many other, and IMO better ways to grow, but as to seeing this was going to be my first completed grow, i would just keep it simple and do organic soil. also its pretty much 50/50 with coco.

also i used epsom salts, because one, i could not find any dolomite lime, and my hydro shop was out . so i got this pelltized lime for some calcium. i was having a bad Mg def with my last so i wanted to make sure they had some instant Mg instead of the steady slow release of dolomite lime. My EW castings are local and have a good amount of Mg in them, which i added 3 1/2 cups for 5 gallons to. they are loving this new soil btw. explosive growth and no transplant stress. some grew like 3-4" in 48 hours.

i will be venturing into soiless and bubbleponics. incorporate a few scrog plants throughout my grows. just to see what i like best. i believe though that i am going to like the scientific part and the yield of hydro. next grow is going to be a 50/50 mix again, but with another mix that needs no amendments. maybe more EW casting, kelpmeal, and perlite if you want more. this stuff has all the goodies, rare earth, a hefty amount of silica ( im sure youve heard the benefits of silica in soil, if not i will gladly enlighten you.

ElectricPineapple said:

a hefty amount of silica ( im sure youve heard the benefits of silica in soil, if not i will gladly enlighten you.

Click to expand...

here is a blog/journal post I did on silica
https://www.rollitup.org/blogs/blog48-benefits-silica.html

you should consider looking into Calcined Clay, that will be the next ditty I blog about

I have a bottle of Earth Juice natural up (adjusting crystals), but I can't find any information on whether it is for adjusting the pH of your water prior to feeding, or if it is to raise the general pH of the soil itself. Anyone know? I've tried scouring the internet and no where does it seem to clarify.

Also: how long after watering is the best time to check soil pH? For awhile I had been checking it right after watering (less than half an hour) and thought my pH was always right around 5.5, but when (after doing that quite awhile) I started checking it the next day it seemed to always be at 6.5! All I have to test soil pH is one of those cheap $5-10 pH sticks. I also have that little vial with the colored drops for checking pH, would it be more accurate to use that somehow? (like how does checking the runoff work since it won't be the same as the soil?)

calcined clay? never heard of it. benefits?

jdizzle22 said:

I have a bottle of Earth Juice natural up (adjusting crystals), but I can't find any information on whether it is for adjusting the pH of your water prior to feeding, or if it is to raise the general pH of the soil itself. Anyone know? I've tried scouring the internet and no where does it seem to clarify.

Also: how long after watering is the best time to check soil pH? For awhile I had been checking it right after watering (less than half an hour) and thought my pH was always right around 5.5, but when (after doing that quite awhile) I started checking it the next day it seemed to always be at 6.5! All I have to test soil pH is one of those cheap $5-10 pH sticks. I also have that little vial with the colored drops for checking pH, would it be more accurate to use that somehow? (like how does checking the runoff work since it won't be the same as the soil?)

Click to expand...

I found this right away,

[Earth Juice Natural Up to raise the pH of liquid plant fertilizers, foliage sprays and soil./QUOTE]

Might as well throw that cheap ph thingy away (I did) Here is what most folks don't understand, you want your soil ph to be close to neutral (around 7) Soil acts as a ph buffer so lowering soil ph is a mistake

the ph of rain is 5.6 to 5.8 you want to water & feed with this in mind as what happens is when it rains the ph is lowered and as the plant wicks the water from the soil the ph slowly goes back up to where the soil was to begin with during this time as the ph slowly changes different nutes are used (uptaken) by the plant in the different/various ph ranges

the purpose of leeching (flushing) the soil every so often is to remove excess salts (from nutes) that tend to lower the ph of soil over time

It is more important to know the ph of your water and nutes than of your soil

Click to expand...

ElectricPineapple said:

calcined clay? never heard of it. benefits?

Click to expand...

benefits are incredible, I am still doing the research for my article but I am seeing some reall cool stuff, it helps reduce (some) insect problem like fungas knats, it greatly increases healthy root developement and boost available oxygen it helps the plant better utilize nute uptake, helps with faster transporation which translates into faster growth

prolly won't have the article finished today but maybe tomorrow?

Well I do pH adjust my water as the last step prior to ever act of watering. But I only used that stuff a couple times before I was told that checking soil pH with a pH stick the same day as watering wasn't a good thing to do. I use a mix of 2 parts FF Ocean Forest per 1 part regular perlite, and I use the FF 3 (growbig, big bloom, tiger bloom). And my soil pH stick always reads like 5.4-5.6 the same day, and 6.4.6.6 the day after.

I asked about it raising soil pH because I'd been told elsewhere that the pH adjusters for water before applying didn't really do much to raise the pH of the soil, and that you needed something else for that (and so I was pointed to that stuff). If I remember correctly, it didn't do much if anything to raise the pH of the water before applying.

jdizzle22 said:

Well I do pH adjust my water as the last step prior to ever act of watering. But I only used that stuff a couple times before I was told that checking soil pH with a pH stick the same day as watering wasn't a good thing to do. I use a mix of 2 parts FF Ocean Forest per 1 part regular perlite, and I use the FF 3 (growbig, big bloom, tiger bloom). And my soil pH stick always reads like 5.4-5.6 the same day, and 6.4.6.6 the day after.

I asked about it raising soil pH because I'd been told elsewhere that the pH adjusters for water before applying didn't really do much to raise the pH of the soil, and that you needed something else for that (and so I was pointed to that stuff). If I remember correctly, it didn't do much if anything to raise the pH of the water before applying.

Click to expand...

I have never used it but IMO it would be better to ammend the soil with Dolomite prior to planting which not only helps with ph buffering over time but provides needed Cal/Mag and FFOF is notorious for Cal/Mag def's towards the end

Mr. Blue said:

Need your opinions...
I have 16 fems in flower right now. Keep in mind, most of them are around 10 weeks and finishing slowly due to a bit of rootbound (I didnt get them into flower soon enough and dont have room for transplanting, it would just stress the plants at this point anyway).
Heres the deal.. Out of 12 finishing plants.. Most show alot of green leaf finally starting to yellow a bit and looking good. But 2 of them are showing some possible problems... Theres some tiny brown spotting on the feeder leaves. It starts from the vein out. Theres brown rings aroung the trichrome foot.. And also alot purpling in the leaf vein and out. (This is not the good purple). Im thinking potasium def maybe but im so far into flower idk what to do.
FoxFarmOFsoil
Ionic nutes half strength every other water (watered about every 4-5 days)(PH'd at around 6)
While in bloom im using Ionic Bloom 1-1-3 and Ionic Boost 0-5-6 at the above schedule
Dual 400w MH/HPS
low 80's temps
30-40% humidity
Its all in the sig below.


I'll prolly let it ride and finish out but would still like to know what it could be.

Click to expand...

Got pics...


View attachment 911717View attachment 911719View attachment 911720View attachment 911721View attachment 911718

streetlegal said:

U should change ur water out EVERY 2 weeks, to stave off root rot and to provide new fresh nutes..
The plants use the nute components in varying amounts so they must be replaced totally to prevent o'dosing or deficiencies..
Only flush if u have a problem
Organic nutes are fine, although u can't use h2o2 with organic nutes so make sure u keep ur res temps down
I don't know if ur lights are enough, i havnt seen ur set-up nut the more the merrier u know..

Yeh give them a lil rest after topping if u want but I wouldn't be too worried, they take 2 weeks to flip anyways

Click to expand...

well heres a pik of my set up its in mmy closet it has a 2 feet fan blowin 24/7 the air pumps is on 24/7 the dripped system is on 15 min and 45 min off i planted both from the same seed but the look mad diffrent why is that i got CITRAL seeds aka lemon skunk or kush i cant remember wat did i do wrong

is it true that females show sex after males

zigzag6 said:

is it true that females show sex after males

Click to expand...

yeah homie from what ive red ive noticed everyone told me that males ature first and show sex first

Hi,

I have a Sunmaster 600w MH, Conversion bulb, 50k lumens and a lux meter.

If i use no reflector, should the meter read 50k lux at 1 foot from the bulb?
Now what will happen with a refelctor? Does it increase or stay the same?

I have a reflector [air cooled] painted white on the inside, at about 1 foot i measure around 80k - 90k, if i put it up against the glass i get just over 100k lux.

Does this mean my reflector is good? Or am i doin/calculating something wrong here?

Thx

Well I don't know what it should do or how to properly measure, but if adding the hood gives you almost double the lumens/lux/whatever at the same distance, then it sounds like its good to me (how bad could you have messed it up?)

Hi..I just planted some magic crystal's and the church, they all were put into a very strong perlite and vermiculite soil. They've been under a cfl and blue led system for 6 days, but they are still tiny, most haven't even lost the sit of seed of their head. Am i doing something wrong?

how long have they been above ground? how far is the cfl and LED from them? um... just vermiculite and perlite? Because I don't think either of those you can grow in, they are additives for soil. If that is all they are growing in you're probably screwed if you can't transplant them into real dirt. If it really is just vermiculite and perlite (no soil/dirt), then you should probably try extremely carefully to transplant them into what ever kind of dirt you can get in short notice, even if it is from your property.

they've been up for about 4 days, the mix is about 60% soil 60% verm and per, i have a super skunk whicjh was planted a week earlier and its doing fine, so it could be the seeds, i really don't know

oh yea, the lights are about 3 cm of each sprout