V series "Tetras"

stardustsailor · May 5, 2015

robincnn said:
Thanks for sharing the numbers and a side pic. Will remember page 14 of this thread for the equation.

This masterpiece is only missing its artists signature logo.

You've asked me about which types of thermocouples should be used ...

Actually ,there are three types of thermocouples mainly used for measuring Tc of COB LED arrays ...

1 ) Type K : Type K (chromel – alumel) is the most common general purpose thermocouple with a sensitivity of approximately 41 µV/°C (chromel positive relative to alumel when the junction temperature is higher than the reference temperature).[9] It is inexpensive, and a wide variety of probes are available in its −200 °C to +1350 °C / -330 °F to +2460 °F range.Type K (chromel – alumel) is the most common general purpose thermocouple with a sensitivity of approximately 41 µV/°C (chromel positive relative to alumel when the junction temperature is higher than the reference temperature). It is inexpensive, and a wide variety of probes are available in its −200 °C to +1350 °C / -330 °F to +2460 °F range.Can not be soldered .Use 2-part thermal epoxy adhensive or thermal silicone to attach it .

2 ) Type J : Type J (iron – constantan) has a more restricted range (−40 °C to +750 °C) than type K , but higher sensitivity of about 50 µV/°C.[2] The Curie point of the iron (770 °C)[8] causes a smooth change in the characteristic, which determines the upper temperature limit.Can not be soldered .Use 2-part thermal epoxy adhensive or thermal silicone glue to attach it .

3 ) Type T : Type T (copper – constantan) thermocouples are suited for measurements in the −200 to 350 °C range. Often used as a differential measurement since only copper wire touches the probes. Since both conductors are non-magnetic, there is no Curie point and thus no abrupt change in characteristics. Type T thermocouples have a sensitivity of about 43 µV/°C. Note that copper has a much higher thermal conductivity than the alloys generally used in thermocouple constructions, and so it is necessary to exercise extra care with thermally anchoring type T thermocouples.
Can be soldered to a copper plated Tc measurement pad .

Cheers.

robincnn · May 5, 2015

stardustsailor said:
You've asked me about which types of thermocouples should be used ...

Actually ,there are three types of thermocouples mainly used for measuring Tc of COB LED arrays ...

1 ) Type K : Type K (chromel – alumel) is the most common general purpose thermocouple with a sensitivity of approximately 41 µV/°C (chromel positive relative to alumel when the junction temperature is higher than the reference temperature).[9] It is inexpensive, and a wide variety of probes are available in its −200 °C to +1350 °C / -330 °F to +2460 °F range.Type K (chromel – alumel) is the most common general purpose thermocouple with a sensitivity of approximately 41 µV/°C (chromel positive relative to alumel when the junction temperature is higher than the reference temperature). It is inexpensive, and a wide variety of probes are available in its −200 °C to +1350 °C / -330 °F to +2460 °F range.Can not be soldered .Use 2-part thermal epoxy adhensive or thermal silicone to attach it .

2 ) Type J : Type J (iron – constantan) has a more restricted range (−40 °C to +750 °C) than type K , but higher sensitivity of about 50 µV/°C.[2] The Curie point of the iron (770 °C)[8] causes a smooth change in the characteristic, which determines the upper temperature limit.Can not be soldered .Use 2-part thermal epoxy adhensive or thermal silicone glue to attach it .

3 ) Type T : Type T (copper – constantan) thermocouples are suited for measurements in the −200 to 350 °C range. Often used as a differential measurement since only copper wire touches the probes. Since both conductors are non-magnetic, there is no Curie point and thus no abrupt change in characteristics. Type T thermocouples have a sensitivity of about 43 µV/°C. Note that copper has a much higher thermal conductivity than the alloys generally used in thermocouple constructions, and so it is necessary to exercise extra care with thermally anchoring type T thermocouples.
Can be soldered to a copper plated Tc measurement pad .

Cheers.

Thanks for this info. Very useful.
I am not sure what I will go with. Will do some more research.
Not sure if i want to permanently attach a type k or j with thermal epoxy.
But with type T i am not sure if i understand 'differential measurement since only copper wire touches the probes.

AquariusPanta · May 5, 2015

http://www.thermocoupleinfo.com/

@stardustsailor

I bought a temperature gun off of Ebay real cheap and did some testing last week. What's your thoughts on using these temperature guns for general temp. reading?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/141357062273?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

stardustsailor · May 6, 2015

AquariusPanta said:
http://www.thermocoupleinfo.com/

@stardustsailor

I bought a temperature gun off of Ebay real cheap and did some testing last week. What's your thoughts on using these temperature guns for general temp. reading?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/141357062273?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I'm afraid that is not a good method ,to measure the Tc of a COB LED array ...
Thermocouples measure the temperature of a really small area ( " spot " / "point " ) ,
like the Tc point of a COB ,while these hand-held IR temp meters actually measure the temperature of an "area" ...
( 12:1 = distance : dia of spot ) ...
Most probably ,the meter will measure also the temperature of the LES,which is located nearby the Tc spot .

For example the Tc spot of Vero 29 has a dia of ~ 1.8 mm and it's located adjacent to the LES.
That means you will have to get the gun as close as 21.6 mm to the Tc point .That alone will create couple of issues,
like a possible incorrect target alignment & a possible damage to the meter-being so close to the LES- due to high heat levels from the LES .

Cheers.
:peace:

AquariusPanta · May 6, 2015

stardustsailor said:
I'm afraid that is not a good method ,to measure the Tc of a COB LED array ...
Thermocouples measure the temperature of a really small area ( " spot " / "point " ) ,
like the Tc point of a COB ,while these hand-held IR temp meters actually measure the temperature of an "area" ...
( 12:1 = distance : dia of spot ) ...
Most probably ,the meter will measure also the temperature of the LES,which is located nearby the Tc spot .

For example the Tc spot of Vero 29 has a dia of ~ 1.8 mm and it's located adjacent to the LES.
That means you will have to get the gun as close as 21.6 mm to the Tc point .That alone will create couple of issues,
like a possible incorrect target alignment & a possible damage to the meter-being so close to the LES- due to high heat levels from the LES .

Cheers.

I totally held that gun within an inch of the LES... did more damage to my eyes than anything else lol; sunglasses are not enough, even with 20W output. Suppose I'll have to find and borrow a welder's mask for future readings.

I still don't understand how a thermocouple would be applied in our case. Maybe another video, with your killer voice, would help me and others testing out our toys. And you don't have a killer's voice, you just hold a similar voice of the actor in that one movie and I think he happens to be of Greek decent (go figure).

Lastly, do you think the thermo gun would be applicable when determining canopy temperatures? I'm trying to figure out where it would be best applied to in a given grow room. I have no canopy to test as of now (transplanted my veggies from indoor to outdoor a few weeks back) but will have another soon.

stardustsailor · May 6, 2015

AquariusPanta said:
I totally held that gun within an inch of the LES... did more damage to my eyes than anything else lol; sunglasses are not enough, even with 20W output. Suppose I'll have to find and borrow a welder's mask for future readings.

I still don't understand how a thermocouple would be applied in our case. Maybe another video, with your killer voice, would help me and others testing out our toys. And you don't have a killer's voice, you just hold a similar voice of the actor in that one movie and I think he happens to be of Greek decent (go figure).

Lastly, do you think the thermo gun would be applicable when determining canopy temperatures? I'm trying to figure out where it would be best applied to in a given grow room. I have no canopy to test as of now (transplanted my veggies from indoor to outdoor a few weeks back) but will have another soon.

Oh,you do not need my "killer's voice" to explain it ..

Bridgelux has done that already .....

http://www.bridgelux.com/resources

That thermogun is fine for measuring the leaf canopy's temps !
As also water tank temps,substrate surface temps ,etc

Cheers.
:peace:

stardustsailor · May 6, 2015

robincnn · May 7, 2015

stardustsailor said:
Oh,you do not need my "killer's voice" to explain it ..

Bridgelux has done that already .....

http://www.bridgelux.com/resources

That thermogun is fine for measuring the leaf canopy's temps !
As also water tank temps,substrate surface temps ,etc

Cheers.

I see they use artic silver in the video

How does the story end after this. I assume thermocople cannot be removed. Can we just cut the thermocouple and continue to use Vero.

stardustsailor · May 24, 2015

V Twin Mark II with SoftOnSet feature.Trial perpetual grow.
( new plants every 4 weeks-harvest of plants every 4 weeks .)

-Center plant : Directly at 12/12 from seed .7th week at 12/12.
-Other two plants :Also directly at 12/12 from seed .3rd Week at 12/12.

2x Vero 29 at 1500 mA ,continuously ( 130 W total plug power dissip. )
T ambient average range = 28 - 37 °C .
Grower has 5 years of growing experience.
3 years growing with HPS ,2 years with LEDS .

sanjuan · May 28, 2015

stardustsailor said:
. . .
1 ) Type K : Type K (chromel – alumel) is the most common general purpose thermocouple with a sensitivity of approximately 41 µV/°C (chromel positive relative to alumel when the junction temperature is higher than the reference temperature).[9] It is inexpensive, and a wide variety of probes are available in its −200 °C to +1350 °C / -330 °F to +2460 °F range.Type K (chromel – alumel) is the most common general purpose thermocouple with a sensitivity of approximately 41 µV/°C (chromel positive relative to alumel when the junction temperature is higher than the reference temperature). It is inexpensive, and a wide variety of probes are available in its −200 °C to +1350 °C / -330 °F to +2460 °F range.Can not be soldered .Use 2-part thermal epoxy adhensive or thermal silicone to attach it .
. . ..

Thanks, you saved me asking if I can solder a Fieldpiece ATB1 Bead Tip K-type thermocouple to a CXB3590. I have a good thermal epoxy.

stardustsailor · Jun 3, 2015

And some peeks from my lab tests on V series Tetras ...

^^^ The fixture upside -down ,with a data logging multimeter ,connected to the first COB that switches on .

^^^ First COB switched on ,when fixture is powered .COB is on " limb mode" .

^^^ second COB is switched on after ~10 min ,also in limb mode.

^^^ A k-type thermocouple attached .

^^^ All four COBs switched on ,at their full power ( @ 1530 mA ) .

^^^ the pc monitoring rig ...On the large monitor ,real -time monitoring of Tc ( #1 COB ) and
at the laptop's monitor the Vf monitoring (#1 COB ) .

^^^ The Tc sensing rig ...

Cheers.

stardustsailor · Jun 3, 2015

^^^ ~46 secs after fixture is powered ON ...Monitoring of COB #1

^^^ ~14 min after fixture is powered ON ...

^^^ 30 mins after fixture is powered ON ( All four COBS are now switched ON at 1530 mA ,each )

^^^ Almost an hour after fixture is powered ON ...

The Tc of COB #1 ,almost an hour after it was powered ON ...
(Almost reached it's thermal equilibrium )

Cheers.

Positivity · Jun 3, 2015

Looks pretty cool and steady.

Be a interesting test to put a sensor near the phosphor and put a glass reflector on. Still curious about that one..

Finally have a computer on the way so I can play with some of the programs I've been missing out on... Dell is going in the trash can..

salmonetin · Jun 4, 2015

Sds...for measuring on AC side you use killawatt or similar?... if yes ...what brand and model using you or usual on europe side?...

...you can log the AC side with your new meter?...

...measurings on the AC side...

Voltage (v)
Current (A)
Linea Frecuency (Hz)
Power Factor (PF)
Real Power or Active Power (P)(W)
Reactive Power or Imaginary Power (Q)(VAR)
Complex Power (S)(VA)
Aparent Power |S|(VA)
Energy (KWH)

Power Efficiency = Input Power - Output Power (%)

Real Power = Apparent Power x cosΦ

Reactive Power = Apparent Power x sinΦ

cosΦ is also known as Power Factor.

Power Factor = Real Power / Apparent Power

...Real Power is the average of Instantaneous Power...

..we Calculate the Instantaneous Power by Multiplying the Instantaneous Voltage Measurement with the Instantaneous Current Measurement...

We Sum this Instantaneous Power measurement over a given Number of Samples and Divide by that Number of Samples

for (n=0; n<number_of_samples; n++)

{

// inst_voltage and inst_current calculation from raw ADC input goes here

inst_power = inst_voltage * inst_current;

sum_inst_power += inst_power;

}

real_power = sum_inst_power / number_of_samples;

Root-Mean-Square (RMS) Voltage

The root-mean-square is calculated in the way the name suggests first we square the quantity,

then we calculate the mean and finaly the square-root of the mean-square, this is how its done on the Arduino:

for (n=0; n<number_of_samples; n++)

{

// inst_voltage calculation from raw ADC input goes here.

squared_voltage = inst_voltage * inst_voltage;

sum_squared_voltage += squared_voltage;

}

mean_square_voltage = sum_squared_voltage / number_of_samples;

root_mean_square_voltage = sqrt(mean_square_voltage);

Root-Mean-Square (RMS) Current

Same as the RMS voltage calculation...but with current values...

for (n=0; n<number_of_samples; n++)

{

// inst_current calculation from raw ADC input goes here.

squared_current = inst_current * inst_current;

sum_squared_current += squared_current;

}

mean_square_current = sum_squared_current / number_of_samples;

root_mean_square_current = sqrt(mean_square_current);

Apparent Power

apparent_power = root_mean_square_voltage * root_mean_square_current;

....Apparent Power = (RMS) Voltage x (RMS) Current

As RMS Voltage is generally a fixed value such as: 230 V (+10 % -6 % in the UK) its possible to approximate apparent power without having to make a voltage measurement by setting the RMS Voltage to 230 V.

This is a common practice used by domestic energy monitors.

Power Factor

power_factor = real_power / apparent_power;

...orher important measuring on the AC side i forget?...

...on other things about protections on AC side... what sensivity on interruptor automatico diferencial you used... ...¿¿Residual current circuitbreaker with integral overcurrent protection?? ...i dont know her name on english...

...for my pov we need a "diferencial" with high sensivity... 10 mA or minus...
...and for the circuit breaker... (aqui los llamamos automaticos o magnetotermicos)...

...what curve you used... C? ...

...maybe we need the Z curve models... with more sensivity... i posted the C and Z curves on other post...

...your answer please ...or I still "punished"?...

pd... the arduino info its only a help to me for better understood and visualize some things... help me a bit to express my pov... sorry about my large posts...

Saludos

stardustsailor · Jun 4, 2015

salmonetin said:
Sds...for measuring on AC side you use killawatt or similar?... if yes ...what brand and model using on europe side?...

...you can log the AC side with new meter?...

...measurings on the AC side...

Voltage (v)
Current (A)
Linea Frecuency (Hz)
Power Factor (PF)
Real Power or Active Power (P)(W)
Reactive Power or Imaginary Power (Q)(VAR)
Complex Power (S)(VA)
Aparent Power |S|(VA)
Energy (KWH)

Power Efficiency = Input Power - Output Power (%)

Real Power = Apparent Power x cosΦ

Reactive Power = Apparent Power x sinΦ

cosΦ is also known as Power Factor.

Power Factor = Real Power / Apparent Power

...Real Power is the average of Instantaneous Power...

..we Calculate the Instantaneous Power by multiplying the Instantaneous Voltage Measurement with the Instantaneous Current Measurement...

We Sum this Instantaneous Power measurement over a given Number of Samples and Divide by that Number of Samples

for (n=0; n<number_of_samples; n++)

{

// inst_voltage and inst_current calculation from raw ADC input goes here

inst_power = inst_voltage * inst_current;

sum_inst_power += inst_power;

}

real_power = sum_inst_power / number_of_samples;

Root-Mean-Square (RMS) Voltage

The root-mean-square is calculated in the way the name suggests first we square the quantity,

then we calculate the mean and finaly the square-root of the mean-square
, this is how its done on the Arduino:

for (n=0; n<number_of_samples; n++)

{

// inst_voltage calculation from raw ADC input goes here.

squared_voltage = inst_voltage * inst_voltage;

sum_squared_voltage += squared_voltage;

}

mean_square_voltage = sum_squared_voltage / number_of_samples;

root_mean_square_voltage = sqrt(mean_square_voltage);

Root-Mean-Square (RMS) Current

Same as the RMS voltage calculation...but with current values...

for (n=0; n<number_of_samples; n++)

{

// inst_current calculation from raw ADC input goes here.

squared_current = inst_current * inst_current;

sum_squared_current += squared_current;

}

mean_square_current = sum_squared_current / number_of_samples;

root_mean_square_current = sqrt(mean_square_current);

Apparent Power

apparent_power = root_mean_square_voltage * root_mean_square_current;

....Apparent Power = (RMS) Voltage x (RMS) Current

As RMS voltage is generally a fixed value such as: 230 V (+10 % -6 % in the UK) its possible to approximate apparent power without having to make a voltage measurement by setting the RMS voltage to 230 V.

This is a common practice used by domestic energy monitors.

Power Factor

power_factor = real_power / apparent_power;

...orher important measuring on the AC side i forget?...

...on other things about protections on AC side... what sensivity on interruptor automatico diferencial... ...¿¿Residual current circuitbreaker with integral overcurrent protection??...i dont know her name on english...

...for my pov we need a "diferencial" with high sensivity... 10 mA or minus...
...and for the circuit breaker... aqui los llamamos automaticos o magnetotermicos...

...what curve you used... C? ...

...maybe we need the Z curve models... with more sensivity... i posted the C and Z curves on other post...

...your answer please ...or I still "punished"?...

Saludos

Salm...
Firstly you 're not "punished" by any way ,at least not by me ...
It's just that I do not have much time available ..
Apart from LED lightsDIYer ,I'm also a ... full time farmer ....
These days ,onions are being harvested ,and it takes lots of time from my every day ...
(more than half )...

Anyway ...

Thanx for the info ...
I'm not that familiar witrh AC as with DC ..

The UT61E , is a true RMS multimeter at the ACV .
(RMS=Peak / √2 )
.
It has also Peak max and Peak min function for the ACV...
(As also a disabled LPF ,due to Fluke's Patent ..)

It's core chip is a CyrusTek 51922 ...
http://www.cyrustek.com.tw/spec/ES51922.pdf

Itr has also plenty of unpopulated pads/spots on it's PCB ....
For example ,it can accept a high precision, of low thermal drift (10-20 ppm / °C ) external Voltage reference , like the LT1790 -1.25 V

..

Also it's input protection is somewhat so & so ...
But it can get lots better with an addition of Spark gaps or GDTs (gas dicharge tubes... ).
Or even with MOVs (metal oxide varistors ... ).
Althought the latter can affect capacitance readings ,due to the leakage current of MOVs.

(I 'm not going to use it for voltages above 250 ,but still I've installed two 600V GDTs ....
Better safe than sorry ...

)

It's major weak spot though ,is the actual 2K DCV calibration trimmer.
The original is a cheap copycat of Bourns 3296 Type ...
And it's way crappy ...It has a 2% drift from VIBRATIONS / mechanical SHOCKS ...
So the original hit the trash and a high quality Spectrol series 64 was used instead ..
With only a 0.2% drift from extreme vibrations/ shocks ...
http://www.vishay.com/docs/57028/64.pdf

And also diid some more minor mods..
(Like non-conductive silicone base grease was added to the rotary switch ,for smoother -low friction-action ,Teslanol T7 was sprayed all over the PCB -minimising leakage currents and serving as spark protection for
pads,components and traces up to 22kV .)

Maybe later I will install also an LT1790 external reference ...
Although ...
(...)
Note 9: Long-term drift typically has a logarithmic characteristic and
therefore changes after 1000 hours tend to be smaller than before that
time. Long-term drift is affected by differential stress between the IC and
the board material created during board assembly. See the Applications
Information section.(...)

&
(...)
In general, the output shift can be reduced or fully recovered
by a long (12-24 hour) bake of the completed PC
Board assembly at high temperature (100°C to 150C°)
after soldering to remove mechanical stress that has been
induced by thermal shock. Once the PC Boards have cooled
to room temperature, they may continue to shift for up to
3 times the bake time. This should be taken into account
before any calibration is performed.
(...)

http://cds.linear.com/docs/en/datasheet/1790fb.pdf

For more info about the UT61E digital multimeter :

http://uni-trend.com/UT61E.html

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/equipment-tools/220914-uni-t-ut61e-dmm.html

http://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/ut61e-drift-and-recalibration/?PHPSESSID=785d53e4dad0252524d9b3783cc2e286

http://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/uni-t-ut61e-multimeter-teardown-photos/

http://lygte-info.dk/review/Review UNI-T UT61E UK.html

http://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/uni-t-ut61e-or-fluke-17b-suggestions-welcome/

UNI T usually makes average quality to crappy meters ...
But this one ...
Oh ,this meter is a whole another story ...
Best bang for the back ...

Cheers.

salmonetin · Jun 4, 2015

...questions...

...for measuring on AC side you use killawatt or similar?... if yes ...what brand and model using you or usual on europe side?...

...you can log the AC side with your new meter?...

...what sensivity on interruptor automatico diferencial you used??... ...¿¿Residual current circuitbreaker with integral overcurrent protection?? ...i dont know her name on english...

..and for the circuit breaker.....what curve you used... C? ...

....answers...

It's just that I do not have much time available ..

I'm not that familiar witrh AC as with DC ..

...lol... i feel punished a bit... but thanks a lot for your short and compressed answer...

pd.. and thanks a lot for the links and the modifications on your meter... nice modifications... ...i like your tunned meter... ...change the original probes recomend on vids i posted... but im sure you know these things...

saludos

robincnn · Jun 4, 2015

Positivity said:
Looks pretty cool and steady.
Be a interesting test to put a sensor near the phosphor and put a glass reflector on. Still curious about that one..
Finally have a computer on the way so I can play with some of the programs I've been missing out on... Dell is going in the trash can..

My Vero 29 at 2.25 Amps, Vf 40.8V, LPC-90-42 was smoking wires if they came near COB so i decided the check temp close to phosphorus.
I was seeing 140 degree C temperature

I was blinded by COB and did not install reflector properly and saw some smoke.

SDS - Did i mount my thermocouple right. I bought one from ebay that you suggested earlier. The thermocouple junction was thick so i could not bend it like they show in Bridgelux video. Used artic alumina to fix it. i would really appreciate If you can show a close up of how you installed thermocouple.
Pardon the single screw installation. I am still finding a tap tool for M3 screw and the self tapping once broke off.
I am seeing Tc around 40 degrees C at 2.25 Amps, Vf 40.8V
It is less than your Tetras Tc so either my thermocouple is not installed properly. Or it is just because I have an open COB and a 0.25A fan.

I did not see any difference in Tc when i installed the reflector. 2 to 4 degree C difference that i would rather dismiss as an error of the poor setup. The reflector did look pretty cool.
I kept a small lens 1cm away from phosphorus and the Tc went upto 60 degree C

As you can see i killed some LED's in COB as i thought it will be a nice idea to test rise in Tc when it is not mounted to any heatsink. Heard a Poof sound of phosphorus pop in 2 seconds.
I wonder why the COB is doing 2.25 Amps, Vf 40.8V. I would expect the current to be less since some LED are dead.

Positivity · Jun 4, 2015

robincnn said:
My Vero 29 at 2.25 Amps, Vf 40.8V, LPC-90-42 was smoking wires if they came near COB so i decided the check temp close to phosphorus.
I was seeing 140 degree C temperature
View attachment 3434167

I was blinded by COB and did not install reflector properly and saw some smoke.
View attachment 3434168

SDS - Did i mount my thermocouple right. I bought one from ebay that you suggested earlier. The thermocouple junction was thick so i could not bend it like they show in Bridgelux video. Used artic alumina to fix it. i would really appreciate If you can show a close up of how you installed thermocouple.
Pardon the single screw installation. I am still finding a tap tool for M3 screw and the self tapping once broke off.
I am seeing Tc around 40 degrees C at 2.25 Amps, Vf 40.8V
It is less than your Tetras Tc so either my thermocouple is not installed properly. Or it is just because I have an open COB and a 0.25A fan.
View attachment 3434166

I did not see any difference in Tc when i installed the reflector. 2 to 4 degree C difference that i would rather dismiss as an error of the poor setup. The reflector did look pretty cool.
I kept a small lens 1cm away from phosphorus and the Tc went upto 60 degree C
View attachment 3434169

As you can see i killed some LED's in COB as i thought it will be a nice idea to test rise in Tc when it is not mounted to any heatsink. Heard a Poof sound of phosphorus pop in 2 seconds.
I wonder why the COB is doing 2.25 Amps, Vf 40.8V. I would expect the current to be less since some LED are dead.
View attachment 3434165

Ahhh...i had a rough day too working with the ledil clamps...piece of [email protected] was sleeping..Workable but not easy.

So sounds like what i was thinking...put something over the phosphor and it'll raise the Tc..

Is that TIM all over the cob? If it is..whatever it is..its good to have iso alcohol around and paper towels to get them shiny clean before using.

The thermocouple wire is too exposed for me too..be good to snip the wire shorter so no exposed wire near terminals.

I use kapton on the thermocouple but its not easy to get it just right that way..need to get the wire to naturally press against the test spot and kapton tape it in place..your way is more secure though. Tape would be a no go since the terminals are exposed..

Time to toss the vero unfortunately...regardless of what its running at..

just some stuff to ponder...not trying to be critical. I tossed a cxa that the solder pad seperated from board while trying to use the ledil clamp.

Good luck and keep at it...hopefully sds can give you some good info

Greengenes707 · Jun 4, 2015

Positivity said:
Ahhh...i had a rough day too working with the ledil clamps...piece of [email protected] was sleeping..Workable but not easy.

Not much room for wires and solder under those bitches is there bro. I'm wasn't a fan of them either.

Wider mounting screw spacing than ideal holders makes retrofitting issues sometimes. Like with arctics.

salmonetin · Jun 4, 2015

...notes on thermocouple way...

http://www.bridgelux.com/sites/default/files/resource_media/AN30-Thermal-Management-of-Vero-LED-Modules.pdf

page 26 and 27

Special care is required when measuring the Tc to ensure an accurate measurement.

As mentioned above, a Tc measurement location is provided on the top side of the Vero module for easy access in a location which Bridgelux has defined near the Light Emitting Surface (LES) and is intended for measuring the temperature with a fine gage thermocouple.

This measurement location is identified in the mechanical section in the Vero LED module datasheets.
The thermocouple attach area is large enough to accommodate a 30 gauge thermocouple, but a smaller gage such as 36 gauge is recommended for ease of attachment and better accuracy,
see figure 9 below which shows the attachment location.

The following approach is recommended to minimize measurement errors for attaching the thermocouple
to the case temperature measurement point of the Vero LED Modules.

A microscope will aid in the installation of the thermocouple detailed in the next steps

...add the vid....

https://www.rollitup.org/t/v-series-tetras.858075/page-15#post-11567816

pd... maybe add the reflowoven shield wiith an arduino... and maybe add an diy microscope with a old web cam....to make pics or vids with the process...or looking tricomas or leaves or insects...with a ring of leds for better illumination... :wink:

saludos

V series "Tetras"

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