Discussion in 'CFL / Fluorescent Lighting' started by Chase1126, Jul 8, 2009.
Any chance of a percentage ratio of lighting 6400k to 2700k. Just give me two number
I haven't personaly done any tests with this. Nor have I come across any. But I figure you would be set anywhere around 5-2 ratio of 2700 to 6500. Nothing in nature is exact math. You would be 'best' off trying to mimic the color of the season your trying to copy. Switching anywhere from 1-1 to 5-2 throughout the plants growth process. Don't try to be perfect. The best ratio depends on placement strength ect... so many factors, so little effect on your yield.
You had 60daylight/40warmwhite for veg, make it 40daylight/60warmwhite for flower
That ll work fine...
Sounds like a good setup to me.
Oh what I would do for a 1000 Watt HPS and a 400 Watt MH. And maybe a few Super Lemon Haze seeds. I wouldn't leave my grow room for weeks.
i'm not sure the exact spectrums on my bulbs, but i have 7 yellowish bulbs and 1 bluish bulb. would the flowering speed up if i added a couple more bluish bulbs?
Honestly, you are basing this off of the PAR readings, which don't mean a whole lot. If you cover both ends of the spectrum, at least bringing in 20% of the less dominant side, you will produce fine. Worry more about the amount of light, the heat, nutes, etc.
Bro, the human eye can not see the desired red and blue spectrums.
We can see the difference in the WARM White and the Cool White, look:
This pic shows both COOL WHITE and WARM WHITE, or high and low kevin bulbs:
well those bulbs look pretty yellow and bluish to me...
You see the WARMTH color, not the spectrum color. You see the yellow and blue, not the actual colors from the light spectrum.
To answer your question directly, we would need to know the size of the room, and the total lumens being given at the current time to the plant. if it is less than the desired amount, any light could help as long as it doesn't add heat build up! =)
Cfls kick ass for everything. You just gotta get the right size and spectrum. Thats where folks screw up and don't like how it lights thier house. Often they get too bright of bulb cause they are only looking and physical size, and not strenth.
Just adding a little note. I have finished harvesting my plants and they are hang drying where I grew them at. Looks like a smaller harvest of about.... 2oz maybe. But not bad considering the hell I drug them through on this grow. The early harvested colas have finished curing and are of very high quality. My testers completely satisfied. 2 toke high, couch lock, very narcotic. My testers forgot how to smoke after a few tokes. I am very happy with how it turned out. And I will use this as an example in the importance of mixed lighting.
Grats on the good shit! Sounds like you will atleast have enough to keep you happy for a little while. Do you have a grow log start to harvest? If so, post it in my research thread in the sig!
I have 6 WARMISH bulbs and i added 2 more COOLISH bulbs making it 3 COOLISH bulbs. (lol i know i can't see the exact colors, but the warm white bulbs give off a yellowish tinge and the cool white bulbs a bluish tinge. you know what i mean.)
the growbox i have is 3x3x5' 8". it's not very high but it is in my crawlspace and so i dug out some space underneath and the pot is chillin in a hole lol. heat isn't really an issue as it's in the crawlspace which is around 60-75 depending on the day. i'm hoping that this addition to the bulb array will make a difference in speed or potency, or maybe even both, but all i can do at this point is wait and water, it should only be another month at most...
So you have a 9 square foot area. (Height is not applicable) So you are looking to hit about 6000 Lumens per square foot for adequate growth. I will assume that they are 26 watt CFLs, so you will be getting ~1600 from each at one foot away. 9 bulbs, 9 square feet, 1600 lumens per foot. You are a little low on initial lumens, but if you use the inverse square law, for every inch you get the bulb closer to the plant, you get better lumen distribution. (more INTENSE light) So keep those 9 bulbs within a few inches, and make sure you have side lighting!
From the literature I've read, plants like a red to blue ratio of 8-1. That is more than I typically see people recommend for the red (2700K) range.
I also believe it might be beneficial to crank up the 6500K bulbs for the last 2 weeks. The theory is to up resin production since the bud has already done most of its growing.
I was just thinking about the importance of mixed lighting and now I'm getting excited about an idea I had for a rubbermaid stealth box.
2x 36 Gal rubbermaids if I can get them, if not, then 2x 69L rubbermaids.
- Line the bottom bins rim with weather-stripping.
- Drill holes in the top for light connections... Decide how you will run all the wiring out of the box, preferably through 1 hole.
- Drill holes through both handles on each side (bins stacked - top bin is upside down) for the size of the bolt you will place there for easy fastening for a tight seal and with the use of a wingnut you can remove the top bin easily.
- At this point you can either cut a hole in the bottom of the bottom bin (for aeroponic chamber systems grow through hole)
- or Line both of the inside of the bins with POLY SHIELD (available by 'per foot' sale!!! lol!!!)
- From the top of the bin, locate the 6" Inline fan hole in the middle of one of the sides.
- Cut the hole. Place a 6 inch Inline fan with a odorsok. Attach 6" duct hose and connect to the Cool Tube. Cut a small passive intake hole in the bottom of the bottom bin.
This is where the MIXED LIGHTING thing comes in. I plan to use a 220w CFL and 4x 30w CFLs inside of this bin (double up on a Y connector). The thing is, the lights are 'kinda' special... The 220w is an Nlights Self-Ballast 25000k purple light (with a special grade of phosphors...). The 30w's are from Mercola.com from WHEN he had those available - now he only has 20w (5550Kelvin, 93 CRI 'TRUE' daylight - invented by a co-inventor of the FIRST! cfl technology and a group of scientists)...
Now, the way I see it. For plants, it has been proven that purple light makes them grow like mad, but also that white light is essential also. Well, in a plant absorbtion chart we see it's bulk of absorbtion is by a PURple spectrum bulb (think of it as its main essentials of light wavelengths), but there is OTHER absorption. White light also gives a fair amount of 'main essentials' form of light with the 'micro/macro nutrients' - of light spectrum wavelengths.
So, inside of a double stacked bin, I will have a negative air pressure environment with AT LEAST a decent light setup. Carbon filtered and cooled with more than what's needed (possible set up the Inline fan to a temperature regulator).
edit-added info. Advanced nutrients new pH perfect! system in an aeroponic chamber with John Ellis water (johnellis.com). For those who can do larger scale systems. Scale this up. Get the LONG X-large rubbermaids, and have 2x Aeroponic systems underneath, 2x light systems inside - was also considering water cooled 400w Ceramic Metal Halide or 2x 250w Ceramic Metal Halide water cooled in series in the larger box. 500w, that's stealth!
I'm a major noob in the growing field, but I've been doing my share of reading on it for the past nine years, somewhat before I failed my first grow attempt. And, the way I see it, there's something off here.
A mixed spectrum is better to plants, but it has nothing to do with the amount of UVB. With red light, plants increase photosynthesis rate and stem growth accelerates, that's why it makes for sturdy plants and fat buds. Blue light is important to regulate stomatas, which are pores on leaves and stems that promote CO2, O2 and water vapor exchange for photosynthesis, breathing and temperature regulation. With proper regulation, the plant can better produce its sugars and other extras such as THC, thus increasing bud quality.
(This should be deep enough to explain it while shallow enough not to bend minds. They mention 6% blue in the PAR spectrum is enough, btw, more of it only adds to stem length.)
What about UVB? Well, anybody who's been out in the sun more than they should know UVB radiation burns pretty bad. UVA does too, but to a much lesser degree. It happens UVB will burn plant tissue too, and cannabis came up with great sunscreen which incidentally makes us trippy and/or sleepy. More UVB, more protection needed, more stoned heads. And, as far as I know, 6500K fluoros do not emit more UVB than 2700K. If they do, it must be a marginal difference. That's why they make special UVB bulbs for reptiles, or people would just put their iguanas under 6500K CFLs. Of course, as everything in life there's an optimum for UVB and too much of it will burn the plants irrespective of how much resin it's coated in.
I guess that's it, feel free to disagree or bash me if I'm totally wrong. Or to endorse this info!
gcosta, looks like you did your homework to me.
Chase, in a 8x8 room, how would you place a 400wt mh next to the 1000wt hps? beside each other or in a line, end to end?
ok i have 4 daylight bulbs the 6500k, 20 watt with 1025 lumens, Cri 75 been growing since the 12 of july im going to keep it on veggie stage till the first of sept then flower i kno thw warm white 2700 but do i just switch lights and chems or do i slowly break it all in
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