Super soil recipe opinion

krizz878

Member
cant seem to edit first post to make changes to the table but is anyone wants to take a look at what I've come up with so far lmk. did the math and total npk should be n-8.7 p-8.1 k-8 and will be working on a flowering recipe that follows the 1-3-2 rule here soon
 

The3rdMan

Well-Known Member
I've used Nature's Living soil 2 times. I used it in 5 & 7 gallon fabric pots and mixed it with Ocean Forest potting soil and had calcium, magnesium, and potassium deficiency problems. The soil does not have enough nutrients to support the plant thru harvest, so have a plan when you see these deficiencies.

Based upon my experience, I don't see how this scores so well in the Amazon reviews.
 

krizz878

Member
I've used Nature's Living soil 2 times. I used it in 5 & 7 gallon fabric pots and mixed it with Ocean Forest potting soil and had calcium, magnesium, and potassium deficiency problems. The soil does not have enough nutrients to support the plant thru harvest, so have a plan when you see these deficiencies.

Based upon my experience, I don't see how this scores so well in the Amazon reviews.
That’s exactly why I’m making my own soil, I’m also going to use dr earth Veg, all purpose, and flower girl in cocoa and compare the two
 

Gardenator

Well-Known Member
Gotcha any good powder organics you recommend?
Roots organic uprising grow, bloom, and foundation... some nice liquid organics by them for bloom boosters is HP2 and HPK they both go well with the uprising formula, another would be there terp tea amendments as well, They make really great products
 

Gardenator

Well-Known Member
I've used Nature's Living soil 2 times. I used it in 5 & 7 gallon fabric pots and mixed it with Ocean Forest potting soil and had calcium, magnesium, and potassium deficiency problems. The soil does not have enough nutrients to support the plant thru harvest, so have a plan when you see these deficiencies.

Based upon my experience, I don't see how this scores so well in the Amazon reviews.
Because along with tea and dry amendments it works very well. I use it with the roots organic uprising line of dry amendments and using hp2 and hpk for bloom boosters along with microbial tea, it also works very well if you take a 1/4 of natures own living soil and brew it into a tea.
 

Gardenator

Well-Known Member
Roots organic uprising grow, bloom, and foundation... some nice liquid organics by them for bloom boosters is HP2 and HPK they both go well with the uprising formula, another would be there terp tea amendments as well, They make really great products
You could just save yourself some time and by one of the packs they offer of various dry amendments from their different lines... players pack has the uprising line, there is a master pack contains all of their soul program and another pack that has their terp tea line of stuff... its all decent and organic, sustainably sourced (if that matters to you, some people do care others dont) the soul program however i am unfamilar with and cannot give any real opinion on...
 

bladecutter

Member
Because along with tea and dry amendments it works very well.
I'm using NLS as well this time. When do you add your tea and top dressing? I'm growing autos in 3-gallon cloth pots. I plan on adding a tea at the beginning of flowering, week 4. I will then top dress on week 7. I am supplementing with Mammoth P, Mikrobs, Fish Sh!t, Aloe Vera and coconut water powder.

I don't plan on actually adding any nutrients (N-P-K) during the grow. Do you think they are necessary?
 

The3rdMan

Well-Known Member
Because along with tea and dry amendments it works very well. I use it with the roots organic uprising line of dry amendments and using hp2 and hpk for bloom boosters along with microbial tea, it also works very well if you take a 1/4 of natures own living soil and brew it into a tea.

That is all well and good but the company advertises their super soil as "Just Add Water", which is the primary reason people buy their product. Many novice growers would have trouble identifying and correcting the deficiencies. What is point of buying their super soil product if you have to use additional nutrients to get the job done? At least give the grower a clue that it is going to be more than just adding water. Their product may work without nutrients for a small plant but after week 3 of flower, growers should expect problems if they have an average sized plant.

I am in the 8th week of flower using their super soil but have been supplementing with calmag and potassium(Dr. Earth Flower Girl) for a month. I am growing Critical and Girl Scout Cookies and these are not large plants. The plants look pretty good and I'll be very happy if I end up with a successful grow. But I will be using my own super soil in the future.[/QUOTE]
 
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Kassiopeija

Well-Known Member
But dang that’s a lot of aluminum
True, but alot of clay-based minerals seem to have Al contained within them. Just got Zeolith which is also heavy in AL, but it seems to be quite heavy... maybe I use it as an upper layer to prevent evaporation a bit....

There are other good minerals which offer alot of CEC like Seramis, Diatomin or the typical expanded clayballs... Im gonna grind some of these to dust and mix them in just to see how it perform...

Another great addition is Leonardithe - which offers both humic acids & carbon
 

potpimp

Sector 5 Moderator
I've done several versions of "super soil". I'm certainly not remotely an expert but I have learned from my many mistakes. Now I just use a good mix of Black Kow, top soil with compost, some Azomite, mycorrhiza, Epsom salt, phosphate, and enough sphagnum moss to make it nice and friable. My plants seem to be loving it. I think top dressing them with a half inch or so of sphagnum moss cover is a good thing; seems to make it easier to take the water and not be "crusty". Much respect for the obvious many hours of research, doing a freaking spread sheet, and all that long division. :)
 

krizz878

Member
I've done several versions of "super soil". I'm certainly not remotely an expert but I have learned from my many mistakes. Now I just use a good mix of Black Kow, top soil with compost, some Azomite, mycorrhiza, Epsom salt, phosphate, and enough sphagnum moss to make it nice and friable. My plants seem to be loving it. I think top dressing them with a half inch or so of sphagnum moss cover is a good thing; seems to make it easier to take the water and not be "crusty". Much respect for the obvious many hours of research, doing a freaking spread sheet, and all that long division. :)
Thank you :P
 

90'sStoner

Well-Known Member
Hey dude organic soil for the win, your original recipe looks well rounded though I've no idea about the ratios.

I use peat moss 50% worm castings 20% and perlite 30%. Once I have that ratio sorted I add plagrons supermix, bat guano, some kelp meal and Epsom salts.

Once they've vegged out a bit they get some chicken manure and compost/fungal teas to help increase the number of microbes breaking down my amendments. I have some brewing now, molasses, worm leachate from my €6 worm farm and I use great white to inoculate it.

Then come flower I top dress with guanokalongs palm tree Ash (0-1-30) and agrobeta bat guano (8-29-2) and again on the 5th week.

My advice for working with dry amendments is a little goes a long way, a build up of nutes from dry amendments is harder to deal with than flushing bottled nutes
 

krizz878

Member
Hey dude organic soil for the win, your original recipe looks well rounded though I've no idea about the ratios.

I use peat moss 50% worm castings 20% and perlite 30%. Once I have that ratio sorted I add plagrons supermix, bat guano, some kelp meal and Epsom salts.

Once they've vegged out a bit they get some chicken manure and compost/fungal teas to help increase the number of microbes breaking down my amendments. I have some brewing now, molasses, worm leachate from my €6 worm farm and I use great white to inoculate it.

Then come flower I top dress with guanokalongs palm tree Ash (0-1-30) and agrobeta bat guano (8-29-2) and again on the 5th week.

My advice for working with dry amendments is a little goes a long way, a build up of nutes from dry amendments is harder to deal with than flushing bottled nutes
thank you and I did the math (complicated and only an estimation) and came out with 9-8-8 the exact NPK I came up with is further back in the post
 

Gardenator

Well-Known Member
That is all well and good but the company advertises their super soil as "Just Add Water", which is the primary reason people buy their product. Many novice growers would have trouble identifying and correcting the deficiencies. What is point of buying their super soil product if you have to use additional nutrients to get the job done? At least give the grower a clue that it is going to be more than just adding water. Their product may work without nutrients for a small plant but after week 3 of flower, growers should expect problems if they have an average sized plant.

I am in the 8th week of flower using their super soil but have been supplementing with calmag and potassium(Dr. Earth Flower Girl) for a month. I am growing Critical and Girl Scout Cookies and these are not large plants. The plants look pretty good and I'll be very happy if I end up with a successful grow. But I will be using my own super soil in the future.
[/QUOTE]
Okay fair enough, they do market the product to be a stand alone source or nutrition from seed to harvest and its not on it own, however if you watch some subcool videos about mixing up the super soil recipe he tends go go alot heavier ratio of supersoil to potting soil then natures living soil reccomends, even though they state that it was created using subcools original supersoil recipe and they only recommend 1lb per 5gallons of volume of medium... i also have to say that i used a 20gallon pot and 10lbs was super soil, promix bx m, ff ocean forrest and dry amendments by down to earth. I never had a single deficiency the whole grow but it wasnt enough food to push the plant out to its full potential (i ammended super lightly thinking i was doing a lick of business lol turns out just made a healthy plant that was clearly healthy but could have been pushed to more potential. I agree that it could really confuse a lot of new growers who are going to run into deficiencies and not understand that the food is in fact lacking and their plants will need more... for me personally it works amazing when mixed at 2 times the ratio they call for with the roots organic amendments (order from natures living soil website not amazon and buy it by the 10lb bags its the best deal) but not begginner friendly to be used as a stand alone "i can grow weed" kind of product like it is being advertized and marketed towards.
 

Gardenator

Well-Known Member
I'm using NLS as well this time. When do you add your tea and top dressing? I'm growing autos in 3-gallon cloth pots. I plan on adding a tea at the beginning of flowering, week 4. I will then top dress on week 7. I am supplementing with Mammoth P, Mikrobs, Fish Sh!t, Aloe Vera and coconut water powder.

I don't plan on actually adding any nutrients (N-P-K) during the grow. Do you think they are necessary?
I pm'd you about amending and using NLS
 

Gardenator

Well-Known Member
You may want to take a look at Grean Bicycles. Patrick was working with Subcool on manufacturing his charge packs before he passed also.
I can tell you first hand Ocean Bounty works :hump:
Seen your beds and those plants you scratch mixed the soil and only fed water, the last ingredient was the grean bicycles it totally appears to work well, the beds look great to i have been checking out your vert grow to, all of the grows look good man
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
Now I just use a good mix of Black Kow, top soil with compost, some Azomite, mycorrhiza, Epsom salt, phosphate
Do you have a reason to use Phosphate? I'm asking because I've been having my soil tested for about 4yrs now and Phosphorus has NEVER been low. Too much P will cause iron lockout and it's called "iron chlorosis". Google that term and see if you exp these symptoms at all. I'm not knocking, but Clackamas Coots don't use P inputs for a reason(same reason why I follow his method). Kis Organics is a WEALTH of great information and listening to it confirmed a lot of things that I "theorized" through my soil tests. If you are mixing your own soil, def give Clackamas a listen. Kis Organics has a 3pt podcast with him: https://www.kisorganics.com/pages/podcast
 

potpimp

Sector 5 Moderator
Do you have a reason to use Phosphate? I'm asking because I've been having my soil tested for about 4yrs now and Phosphorus has NEVER been low. Too much P will cause iron lockout and it's called "iron chlorosis". Google that term and see if you exp these symptoms at all. I'm not knocking, but Clackamas Coots don't use P inputs for a reason(same reason why I follow his method). Kis Organics is a WEALTH of great information and listening to it confirmed a lot of things that I "theorized" through my soil tests. If you are mixing your own soil, def give Clackamas a listen. Kis Organics has a 3pt podcast with him: https://www.kisorganics.com/pages/podcast
Thanks for the info and for posting the link! I've never had my soil tested; I just try and carefully observe my plants to see what they may be lacking. I don't put very much P in the mix at all, just enough for the plant to uptake it if it's needed.
 
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