sharing my modified subcool super soil recipe

jstro420

Member

jstro420

Member
np thanks bro. did the 3 gallon of water thing in the trash cans, needed 2 i used an extra bag of roots so i just did 1 1/2 of your recipe of everything else. prob is, it has like mold growing on the top.. I've attached a pic.. is the whole mix trashed ?

View attachment 2291665
That's mycelium def not trash! Doing exactly what u want it to! Yea getting a mix together again myself whooohoooo
 

MongolianMonkeyNuts

Well-Known Member
the super soil recipe was great, but i have ran this modified version a few cycles now and am much happier with the results. the herbs smell, flavor, crystal content, and stickiness are unbeatable. i will list the recipe, and then explain what i changed and my reasoning. i do a quarter batch from the original recipe.

2 large bags roots natural and organic soil
15 pounds Earth Worm Castings
420g fish bone meal (down to earth 3-16-0)
420g bat guano (happy frog 0-5-0)
420g blood meal (down to earth 12-0-0)
80g potassium sulfate (0-0-50)

200g ancient forest alaska humus (general organics)
200g xtreme mycorrhizal granules
200g azomite

100g sea kelp (algamin 1-0-2)
70g dolomite lime (30% cal 3% mg or 75/12)
50g alfalfa meal (down to earth 2.5-1-1)

20g humic acid powder (down to earth)
8g Epsom salt

i do 420 grams instead of 560 (1.25 pounds) because i felt the original mix was too strong, and it did leave some residual BEFORE curing. lowering down too 420g removed that fixing the problem.. the plants have a very very light beginning of a color fade on a day 63 chop.

the potassium sulfate is obviously to give the soil a (what i feel was needed) potassium boost. sulfer is also a flavor enhancer.

the alaska humus has a very large diversity of microbial life that it adds to the soil, and it also acts as a ph buffer keeping your ph around 7.

xtreme mycorrhizal granules i have used in the past and had great results, so i figure adding some into the soil mix is beneficial.

i use more azomite because in my opinion from past experiences azomite and mycorrhizal combo have drastically improved yields and plant vigor.

sea kelp is also for diversity of bacteria being added to the soil, everyone knows the benefit if seaweed/kelp in cannabis, plus it also is a small K boost.

alfalfa meal i added because of the growth hormone triacontanol basically as long as u arent giving too much of it (which can delay flowering) its just a natural steroid for the plant basically.

during flowering i use this schedule to feed the plant:
STRAIGHT TAP WATER (i have gone thru the trouble of filling gallon jugs thru the water filter at a very slow pace and the results are very very similiar.. so i dont take the time to use dechlorinated water anymore.. its my understanding anyway that the chlorine content in water is no where near enough to kill the bacteria in soil. it would have to be at the strength of pool water, which my water is not, im sure somewhere somebodys is though)

my plants are in 7gal pots, i give em 2 gallons of water as soon as the saucer below is dry. and when i do additives, i give it once a week, on the 2nd jug per plant.

here is my flower feed schedule:

5ml liquid karma (day 1-day 14)
10ml liquid karma (21-49)
2tbsp sucanat (day1-14)
3tbsp sucanat (21-42)
4tbsp sucanat (49+)
5ml hygrozyme (1-49)

i started just water only when i first started with super soil.. experimented with things here and there.. the things i found most beneficial were definitely liquid karma, and the sucanat.. hygrozyme is good, but if u need to go without something, keep the lk and sucanat and dump the hygrozyme.

i pull very well.. no less than 4oz a plant (4 plants under a 1k) on the low yielders (grandaddy) and easily double on a high yielder. the gdp turns purple no matter what the temperature is, because its just the right amount of nutrients to where it starts fading at the end of flower.
What is your Veg stage like? Soil? Nutes? Pot sizes?

willing to try this recipe!
 

sidewing

Well-Known Member
Hello all,

Reviving an old thread.

Hydro has done well, but continually rising costs of electricity have pushed me back to soil. Running multiple air pumps, keeping the ac below 70 degrees add up. With soil I can remove all the big air pumps and keep the thermostat higher.

Anyway, here's the plan thus far, keeping it simple:
1 bag roots original
2 cups of the following:
(These are all dte brand)
Blood meal, fish bone meal, sea kelp, green sand, seabird guano, alfalfa meal, azomite
Then 1/2 cup Epsom salt

Mix all the stuff, cook for 1-2 months and water initially with aact/labs before cook.

I'll be water once a week with aact and labs in flower.

Blood meal-
down to earth 12-0-0
Nitrogen and trace minerals
1-4 month release

Fish bone meal-
Down to earth 3-16-0
Phosphorus, calcium and trace minerals
1-4 month release

Kelp meal-
Down to earth 1-0.1-2
Potassium, trace minerals, growth hormones (cytokinins)
1-4 month release

Greensand-
Down to earth
Potassium, marine deposit consisting of iron-potash-silicates and marine trace minerals.
4+ month release

Seabird guano:
Down to earth 0-11-0
Phosphorus, humus
0-1 month release

Alfalfa meal-
Down to earth 2.5-0.5-2.5
Nitrogen, calcium, trace minerals, growth hormones (triaconatol)
1-4 month release

Azomite-
Over 70 trace minerals
4+ month release

Epsom salt:
Magnesium and sulfur
0-1 month release
(Im using ro water and having some cal/mg deficiencies on my first soil run.. Note this run that is half way done wasn't a soil mix. It was base soil and top dressing, which wasn't sufficient. I'd venture to say if you're using tap water Epsom salt may not be necessary.. In fact it may not even be necessary with ro water with the soil mix in place. But I have and it's cheap so I'll try it)

Aact:
Brewing 24 to 72 hours using mycogrow soluble powder (bacteria, fungi, mycos, humic, kelp, etc) and a handful of sucanat (dehydrated molasses)

Labs:
Lactic Acid Bacteria Serum
Recipe:
LABS – EM1 Recipe

Ingredients & Required Materials

· 1 cup of rice

· Regular 16oz mason jar w/ lid

· 2 cup (16oz) non-chlorinated water

· 1 coffee strainer (metal reusable)

· 1-gallon milk (2%)

· 1-gallon container with lid

· 1 tbsp sucanat

Instructions:

1. Phase 1:

a. Place rice (1 cup) and water (16oz) in mason jar and shake vigorously until water is cloudy white.

b. Strain off rice kernels (cook for dinner?)

c. Cover mason jar loosely with cap (so it can breathe) and store in cool dark place for 5-7 days.

2. Phase 2 (5-7 days later):

a. Sift off top layer and pour serum through metal reusable coffee filter to strain the serum

b. Add 1-part fermented rice liquid to 10 parts of milk (2%) into a 1-gallon jar

c. In this instance, 16oz of rice water to 1 gallon of milk (1-gallon total to fit in the 1-gallon container)

d. Cover container loosely with lid (so it can breathe slightly) and store in cool dark place for 5-7 days.

3. Phase 3 (5-7 days later):

a. Sift off the curd on top (save) then settlement on bottom (save) by pouring through metal reusable coffee filter (put this curd settlement/coffee filtered material into your compost or bury in yard.. You can break up and top dress, it will attract fungus gnats tho)

b. The light-yellow serum left is your inactivated serum (pour into 1 gal container)

c. Add 1 tbsp sucanat (to feed and keep the bacteria alive) and refrigerate.

d. Inactivated serum is good refrigerated for 6-12 months. (this is 4 plants / 8 weeks’ worth applying once per week)

4. Phase 4 – Activate and Apply:

a. Add inactivated serum to room temperature non-chlorinated water at the rate of 1-part serum to 20 parts water (can be used as soil drench or foliar)

i. 1/2 cup serum to a gallon of water for soil drench

ii. 10ml serum to 8oz of water for foliar spray
 
Last edited:

sidewing

Well-Known Member
My hope is by using aact/labs prior to the 1-2 month cook it'll break down (or at least get a good start) a lot of the amendments, especially the longer release ones such as green sand.

I'll be watering weekly with aact and labs to keep the soil alive and thriving through flower.

I'm using smaller pots this time because its easier for me to lug at the end of flower.. Hopefully the mix will be strong enough to carry them through. Will see how things go.
 

sidewing

Well-Known Member
Thank you.
On another note.. I had shut down for roughly 6 months while dealing with some personal issues. All clones were killed. I started collecting seeds from seedsman and they've proven to be a quality seedbank. I had some good runs of skunk 1, power Africa (Durban poison), gorilla glue, misc high cbd strains.. I've settled on 2 strains thus far as my keepers:
Royal gorilla, which is royal queen seeds version of gorilla glue 4. I've grown and smoked many different batches of gg4 and their seed version is spot on. It's almost too strong for me initially.After about a hour of holding on for the ride it mellows out, then i crash.

Purple orange cbd:
This strain is a high cbd strain of California orange diesel. Very high yield, smooth subtle citrus smell and taste, very mellow. I can smoke this and be functional with all the medical relief. This is my go to smoke most of the time.

Purple sticky punch:
This one is purple afghani x chemdawg. Very Indica dominant. Smells like blueberry/purple. This is my first run with her. She's clone only. I'm looking for a heavy Indica to put me to bed.. If this has that effect then this will cement slot 3..

That would give me an Indica, a hybrid, a high cbd.. All that's left is a sativa.

I have a seed of maui waui started that I'll be flowering on this next round starting in a month. If that doesn't fill that spot, I'm going to pop another power Africa, which I ran twice, 2 diff phenos.. Both were very good bud with this great cherry smell. I understand where cherry pie gets its smell from with its Durban poison genetics.
I may also do another Acapulco gold, which was very psychedelic. I had also previously ran Cinderella 99 x blueberry which could be a possibility, or even amnesia og.
I'm looking for a sativa that doesn't induce anxiety/panic in me. The first pheno of power Africa fit this. Unfortunately the second did not.
 

subcool

Well-Known Member
Hello all,

Reviving an old thread.

Hydro has done well, but continually rising costs of electricity have pushed me back to soil. Running multiple air pumps, keeping the ac below 70 degrees add up. With soil I can remove all the big air pumps and keep the thermostat higher.

Anyway, here's the plan thus far, keeping it simple:
1 bag roots original
2 cups of the following:
(These are all dte brand)
Blood meal, fish bone meal, sea kelp, green sand, seabird guano, alfalfa meal, azomite
Then 1/2 cup Epsom salt

Mix all the stuff, cook for 1-2 months and water initially with aact/labs before cook.

I'll be water once a week with aact and labs in flower.

Blood meal-
down to earth 12-0-0
Nitrogen and trace minerals
1-4 month release

Fish bone meal-
Down to earth 3-16-0
Phosphorus, calcium and trace minerals
1-4 month release

Kelp meal-
Down to earth 1-0.1-2
Potassium, trace minerals, growth hormones (cytokinins)
1-4 month release

Greensand-
Down to earth
Potassium, marine deposit consisting of iron-potash-silicates and marine trace minerals.
4+ month release

Seabird guano:
Down to earth 0-11-0
Phosphorus, humus
0-1 month release

Alfalfa meal-
Down to earth 2.5-0.5-2.5
Nitrogen, calcium, trace minerals, growth hormones (triaconatol)
1-4 month release

Azomite-
Over 70 trace minerals
4+ month release

Epsom salt:
Magnesium and sulfur
0-1 month release
(Im using ro water and having some cal/mg deficiencies on my first soil run.. Note this run that is half way done wasn't a soil mix. It was base soil and top dressing, which wasn't sufficient. I'd venture to say if you're using tap water Epsom salt may not be necessary.. In fact it may not even be necessary with ro water with the soil mix in place. But I have and it's cheap so I'll try it)

Aact:
Brewing 24 to 72 hours using mycogrow soluble powder (bacteria, fungi, mycos, humic, kelp, etc) and a handful of sucanat (dehydrated molasses)

Labs:
Lactic Acid Bacteria Serum
Recipe:
LABS – EM1 Recipe

Ingredients & Required Materials

· 1 cup of rice

· Regular 16oz mason jar w/ lid

· 2 cup (16oz) non-chlorinated water

· 1 coffee strainer (metal reusable)

· 1-gallon milk (2%)

· 1-gallon container with lid

· 1 tbsp sucanat

Instructions:

1. Phase 1:

a. Place rice (1 cup) and water (16oz) in mason jar and shake vigorously until water is cloudy white.

b. Strain off rice kernels (cook for dinner?)

c. Cover mason jar loosely with cap (so it can breathe) and store in cool dark place for 5-7 days.

2. Phase 2 (5-7 days later):

a. Sift off top layer and pour serum through metal reusable coffee filter to strain the serum

b. Add 1-part fermented rice liquid to 10 parts of milk (2%) into a 1-gallon jar

c. In this instance, 16oz of rice water to 1 gallon of milk (1-gallon total to fit in the 1-gallon container)

d. Cover container loosely with lid (so it can breathe slightly) and store in cool dark place for 5-7 days.

3. Phase 3 (5-7 days later):

a. Sift off the curd on top (save) then settlement on bottom (save) by pouring through metal reusable coffee filter (put this curd settlement/coffee filtered material into your compost or bury in yard.. You can break up and top dress, it will attract fungus gnats tho)

b. The light-yellow serum left is your inactivated serum (pour into 1 gal container)

c. Add 1 tbsp sucanat (to feed and keep the bacteria alive) and refrigerate.

d. Inactivated serum is good refrigerated for 6-12 months. (this is 4 plants / 8 weeks’ worth applying once per week)

4. Phase 4 – Activate and Apply:

a. Add inactivated serum to room temperature non-chlorinated water at the rate of 1-part serum to 20 parts water (can be used as soil drench or foliar)

i. 1/2 cup serum to a gallon of water for soil drench

ii. 10ml serum to 8oz of water for foliar spray


Great Contribution Buddy :)
 

Jay7t5

Well-Known Member
Anyone sourced alfalfa in the uk? I have sourced Lucine pellets but they 20kg,Which is too big, never make that mistake again, I bought 10kg of caltic lime which is going to out live me ffs ha
 

Cookiezealous

Well-Known Member
the super soil recipe was great, but i have ran this modified version a few cycles now and am much happier with the results. the herbs smell, flavor, crystal content, and stickiness are unbeatable. i will list the recipe, and then explain what i changed and my reasoning. i do a quarter batch from the original recipe.

2 large bags roots natural and organic soil
15 pounds Earth Worm Castings
420g fish bone meal (down to earth 3-16-0)
420g bat guano (happy frog 0-5-0)
420g blood meal (down to earth 12-0-0)
80g potassium sulfate (0-0-50)

200g ancient forest alaska humus (general organics)
200g xtreme mycorrhizal granules
200g azomite

100g sea kelp (algamin 1-0-2)
70g dolomite lime (30% cal 3% mg or 75/12)
50g alfalfa meal (down to earth 2.5-1-1)

20g humic acid powder (down to earth)
8g Epsom salt

i do 420 grams instead of 560 (1.25 pounds) because i felt the original mix was too strong, and it did leave some residual BEFORE curing. lowering down too 420g removed that fixing the problem.. the plants have a very very light beginning of a color fade on a day 63 chop.

the potassium sulfate is obviously to give the soil a (what i feel was needed) potassium boost. sulfer is also a flavor enhancer.

the alaska humus has a very large diversity of microbial life that it adds to the soil, and it also acts as a ph buffer keeping your ph around 7.

xtreme mycorrhizal granules i have used in the past and had great results, so i figure adding some into the soil mix is beneficial.

i use more azomite because in my opinion from past experiences azomite and mycorrhizal combo have drastically improved yields and plant vigor.

sea kelp is also for diversity of bacteria being added to the soil, everyone knows the benefit if seaweed/kelp in cannabis, plus it also is a small K boost.

alfalfa meal i added because of the growth hormone triacontanolhttp://www.google.com/search?hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=S4v&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&sa=X&ei=O7ypT_aOILD9iQKzn7jhAg&ved=0CBsQvwUoAQ&q=alfalfa+triacontanol&spell=1&biw=1024&bih=430 basically as long as u arent giving too much of it (which can delay flowering) its just a natural steroid for the plant basically.

during flowering i use this schedule to feed the plant:
STRAIGHT TAP WATER (i have gone thru the trouble of filling gallon jugs thru the water filter at a very slow pace and the results are very very similiar.. so i dont take the time to use dechlorinated water anymore.. its my understanding anyway that the chlorine content in water is no where near enough to kill the bacteria in soil. it would have to be at the strength of pool water, which my water is not, im sure somewhere somebodys is though)

my plants are in 7gal pots, i give em 2 gallons of water as soon as the saucer below is dry. and when i do additives, i give it once a week, on the 2nd jug per plant.

here is my flower feed schedule:

5ml liquid karma (day 1-day 14)
10ml liquid karma (21-49)
2tbsp sucanat (day1-14)
3tbsp sucanat (21-42)
4tbsp sucanat (49+)
5ml hygrozyme (1-49)

i started just water only when i first started with super soil.. experimented with things here and there.. the things i found most beneficial were definitely liquid karma, and the sucanat.. hygrozyme is good, but if u need to go without something, keep the lk and sucanat and dump the hygrozyme.

i pull very well.. no less than 4oz a plant (4 plants under a 1k) on the low yielders (grandaddy) and easily double on a high yielder. the gdp turns purple no matter what the temperature is, because its just the right amount of nutrients to where it starts fading at the end of flower.
Very old thread, maybe you guys are still around. You’re not PH’ing your water correct?
Am I able to run this recipe and then top dress with my flower nutes or in your experience will that make it wonky? I use this stuff called Mr bs green trees. Workin pretty good and so simple. Alrighty , hope you’re still doing your thing
✌
 

sidewing

Well-Known Member
Very old thread, maybe you guys are still around. You’re not PH’ing your water correct?
Am I able to run this recipe and then top dress with my flower nutes or in your experience will that make it wonky? I use this stuff called Mr bs green trees. Workin pretty good and so simple. Alrighty , hope you’re still doing your thing
✌
Simple is best. Tap water only.
Now I just put it in the ground and have a branch hooked up to the sprinkler timer and don't do anything other than watch it grow lol. No added nutrients. Just dirt and sun. I guess I'm getting more simple as I get older. Where I live now is an old river bed, so the dirt is real good natively.
 
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