sharing my modified subcool super soil recipe

Thx, with the way this soil is, are you sure that your issue isn't that your giving too much cal/mg? Like already mentioned, your pretty far along so maybe just flush and use tap for rest of this round, then on the next try just tap for entire round just to see, maybe have two going one you use just tap nothing else and the other run tap and whatever nutrient supplement you think you want to use see what the differences are and if worth the cost. I'm gonna bet you will be surprised by plain water results. K.I.S.S. is a good way to go with new things.

Hey everyone,

I had a good read and learn quiet a lot thanks to all of you.

After spending numerous days - including today - trying to find a way to put together all the needed ingredient - and failing - i had to ak that question:
Would i be better off sticking with my bottled nutes or should i give a try at making my own soil even if it aint exactly the same recipe?

I'm all about quality and when reading the thread it seemed to me that i could give a try at making my own batch and even though i wouldnt get the exact same result i still could get better quality than what i get with my bottled nutes.

What do you guys think? Would it be risky?

Have a dank day!

Well what are you missing would be a good question to start with? I didnt do exactly and had to wait a week after the mix to ad azamite as it didnt get to me in time for mixing when I did the first time and all went fine. I also used a different ratio for my potash so I use a bit extra, my bone meal was not fish bone, so I would say you should be fine if you have to substitute, also if you are good with diagnosis and you have liquid nutrients you can use those to fix any holes that come up.

but when trying something new I would recommend being as close as possible so you know what the baseline is to compare.

All the basic ingredients i can get, but i'm missing most of the secondary - or can get them on ebay but being in europe some of the delivering fees cost twice the price of the product...
The humic acid i thought i could replace with cannazym maybe, the dolomite and alaskan humus are hard to get and i cant find potassium sulfate but found potassium oxyde.

Is there anyway i could do somehting solid using fishbones - different guanos, kelp, worm casting, enzyme, minerals and potassium oxyde or are those secondary ingredients vital to get better results than using organic bottled nutes?

Thanks a lot.

It appears the watering with the additional magnesium did the trick right away. I haven't notice any further spread. But, I'll keep my fingers crossed anyway. I'm sure my plants will do just fine with well water. All of your plants are certainly proving it... even the veggies!

From the little I know... I would most certainly get rid of the bottled nutes and get a soil mix going even if the shipping fees are expensive. I sourced a box/bag of most everything on the list a few months back and it will last me for a couple of years. It's just the base soil (Roots Organics, Fox Farm Ocean Forest, etc.) and the worm castings that I have to pick up when mixing a new batch. Once you scape together the initial ingredients this method not only produces some of the best meds available but is dirt cheap to produce.

I hear you on the shipping cost, I think with the Azamite it was only$7 but the shipping was like $13! But even with that it will last like 5 or 6 mixes so not really that bad and now that I know, if I can get all the stuff I can't get at the local garden center I can get all items from one place and pay shipping on all of the order instead of separate items to keep shipping cost down.

Cheers guys, i'll suck it up and pay the bill once and for all haha.

I'll try to stick with the link you guys shared to get the "special ingredients" so as you said it will definetly reduce the shipping fees and will use my european brand for the guano, blood meal etc...

Thanks a lot for the good advices, i can't keep on coming on this forum and run with bottled nutes - i'm already using mostly fem seeds!
Have a dank day!

edit: Actually i just saw that sannies had some of the ingredient i was missing awesome just will have a few to order in the US now!

re-edit: sorry to be a pain in the ass but after reading the product sannies held i wonder do you guys think i could use that as the base:

Bio Grow Complete organics (2-5-3)
Bio Grow complete organic fertilizer mix has been developed by Bio Grow in cooperation with Femeg – GK-Organics. Guanokalong powder is mixed in combination with GK-Organics products like: sea weed powder, palm tree ashes, cotton seed powder, fish powder and volcanic loam. This unique mix of products represents a full bodied pure organic NPK value with loads of trace elements.
Mix 0,5 liter through 50 liter of soil for a light schedule, 1 liter on 50 liter soil for a medium schedule and 3 liter on 50 liter soil for a heavy schedule.

add mycorrhiza, potassium hydoxide/potash (0-0-3, lime and replace alfalfa meal by cannazym which seems to serve the same purpose eventhough it might not be the same quality...

Is the NPK ratio of that basic mix to light - ithought by going hevay i could just add the missing ingredients i listed and then see on during the grow how things evolve using a slightly higher ratio than with super soil?

I know it sucks to ask you guys about taylor made answers when you have produced pretty clean cutted answers i you feel like telling to stick with the original plan i wouldnt mind

Have a dank day!

cant find potassium sulfate but found...

Click to expand...

What Super Soil recipe are you using? I've never seen potassium sulfate in sub's recipe or common variations.

GrowBrooklyn said:

What Super Soil recipe are you using? I've never seen potassium sulfate in sub's recipe or common variations.

Click to expand...

Hi GrowBrooklyn,

This modified recipe include: 80g potassium sulfate (0-0-50).
Had a hard time finding this...

Have a dank day!

edit: Forget about my last post i found everything to make the supersoil, wont be the exact same ingredients but i'll do the math as far as NPK, for the other ingredients i'll only be missing the epsom salt but i guess if i can get all the rest it'll do

FYI the alfalfa has tricanatrol that will provide stretch in veg and a bit of bulk and frost in flower you can supplement with a product like snowstorm or cannaboost, cannazyme is wonderful and I use regularly, but it doesn't have tria in it.

Cannazym is not so much a nutrient, it is an enzyme. It does have nutrient value but the biggest advantage of use, comes from the enzymes that break down dead/unhealthy root mass and converts this to a sugar that helps to feed the micro life in your soil, I find that using in flower seems to give a sweeter flavor, imo

As to the soil you mentioned, I'm sure it'll be fine.

I use a potash/mag/sulfur mix product with a npk of 0-0-22 and I add a bit more than called for. So I'm sure you can find a suitable substitute if you have to.

Oh forgot to mention, be careful with alfalfa/tricanatrol in veg, it can cause a longer transition period when going from veg to flower.

Also I do water with 1-2ml per gal of silica every water cause I'm in a hot climate and it helps when it gets hot and it gives the plant a really healthy feel to the leaves and in veg I add 5ml/g rhizotonic every 2-3 watering and in flower I use 5ml/g of Cannazym every other water along with snowstorm 5ml/g starting week 2 - 7.

PS. Thanks for sharing Sidewig, been working very nice for me so far and will be able to do a smoke report next week from first plant to go all the way.

@ta2drvn:

Thanks a lot for all the advice and tips, i was wandering about my veg schedule as far as rhizotonic, it's been set straight haha.

I'll only use the soil for flowering, repotting the plants a ccouple of weeks before blooming them so most of the growth will be done by that time, alfalfa should not be a problem
Thanks again man, greattly appreciated!

Have a dank day!

Your welcome

I havent been around the past few days, this thread dun blowed up... Crabby..... not that I'm trying to start a water beef or say you guys are wrong, but sidewing and ta2dvn are confusing the difference between city tap water and well tap water... it all comes out of the "tap" obviously... but city water is treated and most of the total dissolved solids in city are added and arent harmful (so they say...) and can usually be used for gardening, either straight up with some aeration and some light filtration... City water is also usually held/collected in reservoirs rather than filtering through the ground into the water table like well.... On top of filtering through the ground and whatever else is in the ground, well water is at the mercy of whats in the water table in your area already... If theres a farm, a factory, a septic tank/leachfied thats cracked or overflowing after a rain... a scum bag neighbor that likes to dump nasty toxic shit in their back yards.... its all going into your water table and up through your well pump into your house and out of your faucets... There could be some kind of factory 5 miles away from you dumping shit and a little at a time it'll make its way to your drinking water depending on how the water table lays out in your area.... Do some research into natural gas fracking and what it does to the local water tables on top of them straight up backing 18 wheelers up to rivers and streams and dumping special sauce into them.... you'll never wanna open a faucet again... In some cases it can be basically spring water if your house is in around some kind of spring or something but more than likely not... As time goes on, more garbage is being dumped inappropriately and it all makes its way to the water table in/around that location...

Im just sayin..... whats in your water is gonna make it into your herb and your veggies even in small amounts, but overtime... a little becomes a lot..... from what you've mentioned about your health conditions etc.. you dont need anymore harmful shit making it into your body anyway, anyhow....

Do yourself a solid.... Get a cheap test kit from home depot or lowes before you make any changes... what you find out may have you wanting to invest in some changes for you and your familys health on your whole house main water supply.. Well water can be awesome, it can be pure and clean, but for the most part our world is becoming a very polluted place even when it looks all pristine on the surface...

Honestly I dont really like RO because of the amount of water it wastes, but the stuff thats making it into our water these days isnt good... I cant remember if it was the plague or whatever in england (I really dont have the brain power to be googling shit right now) but before indoor plumbing they used to just dump their chamber pots out the windows right into the streets and into the local rivers etc... they were poisoning their own water supply and thats how the plague or whatever horrible diseases of that era came about... The corps. that frack are not bound by the clean air and water act (haliburton is the proprietor of the special sauce that cools the drill bits for fracking that contains some awfully poisonous shit) DICK cheney was nice enough to remove haliburton from the clean air and water act so they cannot be held accountable... true story...

Like I said originally when addressing the water issue, if your water is safe to drink, RO water is not necessary. If you have city or well water makes no difference, if it is safe for drinking, even if it has a strong chlorine taste, the plant will be fine. most people that use well water for home use have had the water tested so if this is the case your good to go.

A little bit more about my water situation... I am on a community water system, in an area that is quite pristine, that uses water from a couple of different ground water wells... there has been very little environmental pollution over the years in this area and it is quite pristine but I have been told that the wells can be subject to salt water intrusion at times...

Due to my health... I have been advised by my physicians to consume RO water due to what I assume to be the salts and potential heavy metals... I have been planning on installing a RO system with an upcoming kitchen remodel and in the mean time have been purchasing RO water at the market....

So considering that I'm going to have a RO system in the house for personal reasons... it seems to make sense that I should go ahead and continue using RO water for the plants but on the other hand my plants probably wouldn't of experienced a magnesium deficiency if I hadn't been using RO water in the first place... If I continue with the RO water how do I ensure that I won't have another mag def? And since I experienced a bit of mag def with this round did it adversely effect my flowers??

Day 52... fighting humidity (55-67%)... dark green leaves... great looking flowers...

I now have my worm farm up and going and its kind of exciting making my own castings... lucked out and received a very nice wooden worm farm by Holtz Heritage Farm as a gift... fun and entertaining to watch it at work...

I ordered a pound of Agsil 16H Potassium Silicate [32% K2O 26.56% K and 52.8% SiO2 (Silica)] for $10+ free shipping
- soluble Silica Powder offers growers these benefits:
Provides resistance to mineral stress
Decreases climate stress
Improves strength
Increases growth and yield
Helps plants to reduce toxicity from phosphorous, manganese, aluminum and iron
Increases tolerance to salt
Protect the plants from botrytis (grey mold) and powdery mildew (PM)

I plan to add the Potassium Silicate to my water in the next round and am also going to add the brown rice hulls per sideways... Rice hulls provide aeration similar to perlite in addition to the silica benefits... Any thoughts?

Another question...

I have approximately 50% supersoil in my 7 gal pots... I'm having more leaf tip burn on the Kosher Kush's than I did previously... It looks to me like that they are feeding like mad (mid/late flower) or is it that the soil is too hot for them?

Crab Pot said:

Your both right! I'm going with tap (well) water... thanks for keeping me straight.

Sideways- I picked up a 10 pack of Ken's GDP. Any advice on what to look for when I pop those beans?

ta2drvn- impressive thread you have going... your plants are looking so healthy... Can't wait to see how they finish... I'll be checking in often...

Click to expand...

my kens gdp clone only leaves look almost identical to purple urkle. it grows very similar to urkle, just a little more stretch. it will stink like purple very early in flower. and will continue all the way through, and carry over into the final product.

ta2drvn said:

FYI the alfalfa has tricanatrol that will provide stretch in veg and a bit of bulk and frost in flower you can supplement with a product like snowstorm or cannaboost, cannazyme is wonderful and I use regularly, but it doesn't have tria in it.

Click to expand...

snowstorm is not natural as is alfalfa meal. i used it in the past and its overpriced in my opinion, didnt see enough to justify the cost. after the whole bushmaster thing, i dont trust their line anymore.

i use aquasana water filters for my drinking water. sinktop model is not expensive at all, as is the shower filter. if you can afford it, they have whole house filters for city water as well as well water.. they will even test your water for you to see what you specifically need. also as stated much much earlier in the thread, groworganic.com has every single ingredient used except happy frog bat guano. and they just started a flat rate shipping fee for 40lbs and under i believe which helps a lot on the smaller ingredients. the 40lb bags of potassium sulfate and azomite etc should be a one time order and should last for years. also just wanted to note ive been using the rice hulls for a natural source of silica as opposed to silica blast or some other product which tends to be salty.

you can substitute brands of ingredients, but just be careful some guanos are big tablets instead of fine powder. they break down different. the soil is very forgiving with additives, the reason for the 1 month cook time is to prevent the soil from being too 'hot'.. meaning too much nutrient additives that will burn your plant. if the soil is cooked long enough its very hard to burn your plant with natural additives.. things you need to be careful with are additives such as epsom salt.. real easy to overdo it. potassium sulfate i'd say would be another to be careful with, since its 0-0-50.. a little goes a long way, it is used up fast too.. so if you want long lasting potassium in your mix you need to add some greensand. I'm going to possibly be experimenting with some here soon.