Second go at first grow in new UC system

shawnery

Well-Known Member
not sure what formula you are using for pool shock, but 1ppm is pretty weak. i ran at 3ppm no problems

0.30 grams per 10 gallons water is 3ppm.
My normal dose comes out to 1/2ppm so I guess I was safe triple dosing.

Right now its 1gram per gallon to make solution and then the dosage is 1oz per 5 gallons. The initial post, which is on this and other sites, stated it could be used at 5x strength without issues.

I forgot to add that when I refilled my system I not only used pool shock but also 33% h2o2 at 1ml per gallon. This morning I can say two good things my four better plants look just as healthy and my water no longer has ANY scent at all.

I'm so at a loss to the cause of my issues. I'll admit I've never had a green thumb but as long as you can follow instructions it's pretty much paint by number.

My second grow on a much lesser system netted .85g per watt or 2.2#'s for 40sqft. I expected to get my new porche undercurrent system to much better than that and then I lose the first batch the same way I'm about to loss this one.

I guess long story short my only option to to start using my RO system again or go back to distilled water to at least remove that variable from the equation. The water sits in really old wooden tanks up in the Santa Cruz hills so who knows what the fuck is in it that a regular filter can't remove.
 

shawnery

Well-Known Member

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rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
I'm so at a loss to the cause of my issues
the next time you add some hth, take a gallon jug of your nute solution and make sure you run it thru the top of the hydroton/stem too. you need to get that chlorine in every nook and cranny that you can.

and the other benefit of chlorine is that it's a nutrient for the plant too.
 

shawnery

Well-Known Member
the next time you add some hth, take a gallon jug of your nute solution and make sure you run it thru the top of the hydroton/stem too. you need to get that chlorine in every nook and cranny that you can.

and the other benefit of chlorine is that it's a nutrient for the plant too.
Did that already but thanks for the advice, who knows what I'm missing. I figure what I'll do is at least once a week I'll continue to do this just to be safe.

It just drives me crazy how half of my plants look good for 2 weeks but at least three of them almost look the same as when I got them!
 

shawnery

Well-Known Member
I wonder if it would be better to run a lower dose daily, run an auto injector 24/7 or run a higher dose every few days?

It seems logically that either way has a benefit. Using less more often ensures there's never enough of a drop to allow pathogens to get working. On the other hand using a larger dose less often would ensure that the amount of chlorine spikes to destroy any breakouts.

I don't know! What do you think? Honestly though I've never read of anyone using it daily. Though I and others have used h2o2 daily regularly.
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
how about a pic of the roots/netpot of the ones that don't look too great.

how long ago did you mix your stock solution of hth? every time it gets exposed to air, it weakens.

do you have an accurate scale? down to 0.01 grams??
 

shawnery

Well-Known Member
My scale only does grams 0-1-2-3. To make sure I'm as close to even on each weight once it shifts up a number i remove a little and then add it back bit by bit till i hit 1gram or 2 grams or what ever number i need.

Solution is brand new as in an hour before I cleaned and refilled the system. I'm wondering since I used a pretty small dose compared to what your using if I should just reapply today with the same dose as yesterday and that would bring my ppms to 3 or just wait till Thursday and refuse then?

Pics after Solo!
 

shawnery

Well-Known Member
Here's my two worst top to bottom and my two best top to bottom. The difference in the roots is less browning and more individually thinning out and some root hair loss.

These clones started in the exact same everything from top to bottom and look at the difference! Night and day. The good ones have huge stalks already and the sad ones have barely thickened at all in the same exact time.

Just to be sure it's clear, each pair of photos is one plant
Fucking hydro!!!
 

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shawnery

Well-Known Member
One plant per tote most likely to end in a scrog with an area of 5x8. Total of roughly 65 gallons. Two 70lpm pumps each running high quality 4" air stones. Epi center with no air stone but a 1" tube from 1000gph with venturi, lots of tiny bubbles. 1/4hp chiller run from 66 to 68 degrees.

Anything else?

One issue is I shouldn't have fimed those unhappy clones when I did the happier ones. The only good thing is each plant I fimed gave me 4 new shoots EACH! Doesn't matter though if half my plants dont make it!
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
here is what i would do:

get yourself some 5 gal buckets with lids (black), some cheap air stones and a cheap airpump from walmart.

put each sick plant in a 5 gal bucket and try to baby them back to health. give them a 24hr flush with RO water and HTH and then start back on much lighter nutes and HTH. what nutes are you using?

right now, it looks like you have nute locked the weaklings because your feed is good for the healthy ones but too strong for the others.

cover up the holes in your UC after your remove the weak ones. keep doing what you are doing with the healthy ones.

you can save the weak if you act pretty quickly. once they get back to normal, put them back in the UC.
 

shawnery

Well-Known Member
What's your take on the roots?

Is it possible this could all be started by a couple broken roots on one plant? When I first noticed it on one plant there were a couple broken roots but it's hard to know what happened first.
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
not horrible looking. i've seen and had much worse. lol.

the discoloring in the leaves is i think nute lockout, not lack of nutes since the healthy ones look perfect.
 

shawnery

Well-Known Member
I'm not saying it's not lockout cause it's obviously an option but couldn't root rot show those same symptoms on underdeveloped clones? Secondly all the plants were started at 380 and half took off and half stunted.
 

shawnery

Well-Known Member
I know it sounds high but on my last full grow that went good I started at 1.2ec with no burning and by the end of veg I was at 2.4ec and it was dropping, water level dropping and ph rising, that's supposed to be perfect right?

I only point this out, I know all plants are different, because I'm trying to understand the differences between the last two grows and the full harvest before that. The three changes are, water was from ro and now from chlorine and chloramine filter, was a crappy rdwc worth 50 bucks and now full undercurrent worth hundreds; lastly I was running 12/12/6 at 1.2ec from go but grow 2 ago I ran .4ec and this time .85ec from go.

Those are literally the only changes.

You think since the smaller plants have hardly any roots I could get away with top feeding them low ppms till they drop to the water to counteract the popping bubbles?
 

kingtitan

Well-Known Member
Like with me you will not have much success with sanitizer if it already took hold. Though my situation was a bit different because I had the cyano (brown slime) but i did also have a bit of root rot I believe. EWC tea will knock the slime away in days but the brown roots slowly creeped until harvest but was kept in check with the EWC and Great White so it really didnt affect the plant at all from what I observed.

Your constant doses could make the pathogens more resistant. I'll use a hot tub for example, in that situation you keep your water at 2-5ppm and it keeps it maintained and safe but every few weeks you give it a supershock at 30-50ppm (10+ppm is when you do not enter water anymore). You do this due to Bio Film which occurs when the pathogens start to resist the normal dose by creating a protective film and can be seen as blobs of goop colonies that may dislodge from a pipe. By shocking this high you destroy everything and reset your tub.

Obviously we cannot do this with plants as the most they usually can handle is 5ppm and so that is why I suggested to take cuts and start new with a clean system and run it with just peroxide and non organic nutes. Once the system has microbes in it you need to keep it microbes. This is what I beleive my problem was...I added my version of "hydroguard" to a system that had peroxide still and the die off turned into a nightmare.

The EWC works and works well, so if you want to keep at this you need to brew this tea and add it (i know you tried but try again). Maybe change the EWC to a different brand and make sure to brew it at least 30 hours at room temp. give it a sniff before you add it, if it makes you gag its bad. you can store this in the fridge for 7 days and dose using this every 2 days for a while then you can back off a bit. again sniff before you add it, it should smell earthy and kinda sweet.
 
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