Samsung H series strips, Arrow seems to be blowing them out! what a deal!

ilovereggae

Well-Known Member
The Tnutz are comparable in price for the 1" and are studier. I was thinking just use the aluminum part of the Amazon ones and attach the strip to the bottom side. Don't want the covers for our application, and I'm not sure if putting the strip in the trough would limit the light on the edges.
the Amazon ones are only 20mm wide inside. 24mm wide strips won't fit.
 

ilovereggae

Well-Known Member

These are what I am looking at using. I am buying in volume wholesale bc I have a friend who has a building company and wants to use them as a standard channel size. I want to test them out before I recommend them to anyone else but I have samples already and just waiting on some hardware to build a light out of it. If anyone else is interested I can look into stocking up and make them available. I can get them cut to whatever size, I was going to go for 280mm myself. I would have to figure out the price without lenses and endcaps but it will def be cheaper than the tnutz.
 

getogrow

Well-Known Member

These are what I am looking at using. I am buying in volume wholesale bc I have a friend who has a building company and wants to use them as a standard channel size. I want to test them out before I recommend them to anyone else but I have samples already and just waiting on some hardware to build a light out of it. If anyone else is interested I can look into stocking up and make them available. I can get them cut to whatever size, I was going to go for 280mm myself. I would have to figure out the price without lenses and endcaps but it will def be cheaper than the tnutz.
that link is showing me 9.95$ for a 23" piece. 1" wide. So even at 50% off it would still be higher then tnutz.
 

raratt

Well-Known Member
That includes frosted covers and endcaps which adds a lot to the price. I am also buying at high enough volume those prices are not applicable.
I'm curious as to the thickness of the LED mounting channel as to whether it would be stiff enough to end mount.
 

ilovereggae

Well-Known Member
I'm curious as to the thickness of the LED mounting channel as to whether it would be stiff enough to end mount.
About 1/16th inch or 1.6mm. Its definitely solid. 6063 aluminum. There are also the fins and lip on the other side to give it structure. That said im planning to use allen head bolts w locking nuts to attach my cross bars to each rail.
 

getogrow

Well-Known Member
once again I can't take credit. @The Loafter found the original deals on those drivers, and @babybud had grabbed some too. I just posted them again when I saw them drop even more.

also fwiw I did call Arrow to find out about warranties they said I have to contact the mfg directly on that. I also asked how the pricing worked and how was it possible to be getting stuff so cheap. they said its all automated and compares competitors pricing and a bunch of other metrics. it runs every 10 minutes so if you see a deal, you are only guaranteed that price based on when u add it to your shopping cart. if the price changes before you check out, and you change quantity it will update your cart to the new price. something to keep in mind. also they do price matching so if you find something cheaper on Digikey screenshot it and then buy on Arrow to get the free shipping.
im pretty sure this phone call made them fix their computer generated prices. That was a fuck up not on purpose. Anybody knowing what they are supposed to cost should know that. I dont see no more playing with cheap strips unl;ess you stocked up.
On that note , i'll buy any overstock yall may have..... :wall: :wall: :wall:
 

zoiz

Well-Known Member
Started putting together some lights with the Deltas, and I've noticed one difference compared to Mean Well so far. Two COBs, 51V, on Delta 150W 54V, and at very low dim there's flicker.

Maybe Mean Well flickers too for some drivers, but I just haven't come across it. HLGs only do 10-100% so maybe it's a common thing under 10%. PFC or something, and they just hide it with a 10% lower limit.
 

ilovereggae

Well-Known Member
im pretty sure this phone call made them fix their computer generated prices. That was a fuck up not on purpose. Anybody knowing what they are supposed to cost should know that. I dont see no more playing with cheap strips unl;ess you stocked up.
On that note , i'll buy any overstock yall may have..... :wall: :wall: :wall:
hey man dont blame me cause your slow on the draw lol. jk. for real tho the prices always fluctuate. the influx strips I got had jumped back up to regular prices right after I bought them a month ago. last week they dropped back to $1. had to pay my bills before I grabbed more, by time I went back a day or two later they had jumped back up to normal price. just gotta be quick!

like metic just said, the delta lne drivers have been dropping again recently. a bunch of 24 and 48v that weren't on sale last time are now.
 

loco41

Well-Known Member
hey man dont blame me cause your slow on the draw lol. jk. for real tho the prices always fluctuate. the influx strips I got had jumped back up to regular prices right after I bought them a month ago. last week they dropped back to $1. had to pay my bills before I grabbed more, by time I went back a day or two later they had jumped back up to normal price. just gotta be quick!

like metic just said, the delta lne drivers have been dropping again recently. a bunch of 24 and 48v that weren't on sale last time are now.
I'm sure the fact that arrow was sitting on like 4,000 of the 4k f series strips played a part too.
 

ilovereggae

Well-Known Member
Started putting together some lights with the Deltas, and I've noticed one difference compared to Mean Well so far. Two COBs, 51V, on Delta 150W 54V, and at very low dim there's flicker.

Maybe Mean Well flickers too for some drivers, but I just haven't come across it. HLGs only do 10-100% so maybe it's a common thing under 10%. PFC or something, and they just hide it with a 10% lower limit.
did you get a WAAA (mw a type) or WDAA (mw b type)? if its like the A type can you use the pot to manually adjust the voltage range? datasheet says it goes down to 49V. I got some of these 150W in 48V A version but haven't tried to use them yet so I'm curious.
 

zoiz

Well-Known Member
did you get a WAAA (mw a type) or WDAA (mw b type)? if its like the A type can you use the pot to manually adjust the voltage range? datasheet says it goes down to 49V. I got some of these 150W in 48V A version but haven't tried to use them yet so I'm curious.

I got the WDAA type. Attached an external pot.
Looks like WAAA type has two internal pots: V0 dimmer to set the max, and I0 dimmer.
 

ilovereggae

Well-Known Member
I got the WDAA type. Attached an external pot.
Looks like WAAA type has two internal pots: V0 dimmer to set the max, and I0 dimmer.
I've only ever used the external B type dimmers on C series drivers that I was using for a series build so not sure about the exact voltage range on those. The A type with adjustable voltage always seemed easier for single boards or parallel so I can dial in the voltage on CV builds.
 
Slightly un related to the strips but I grabbed six of those Delta LNE-54V185WDAA for some QB96's, most I've seen them pull at the wall is 174w. The output was lower with a dimmer pot attached, around 145w.

I'm not complaining for the price they were super cheap but any ideas why mine would not be pulling at the rated wattage?

I just have one one board per driver, same boards with same wires on a XLG-200-HA-B pull 225w at the wall.
 

NukaKola

Well-Known Member
Slightly un related to the strips but I grabbed six of those Delta LNE-54V185WDAA for some QB96's, most I've seen them pull at the wall is 174w. The output was lower with a dimmer pot attached, around 145w.

I'm not complaining for the price they were super cheap but any ideas why mine would not be pulling at the rated wattage?

I just have one one board per driver, same boards with same wires on a XLG-200-HA-B pull 225w at the wall.
Are you running a 100k pot? Try throwing on a resistor.
 
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