Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I see now, thanks. Nice little device..
But it also says, measurments within 380-780nm so its impossible to get a detailed spectrum shot of the Agromax bulbs. What a shame..
QB96 Elite V2 w/ SSTX heatsink question
- Thread starter pulpoinspace
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But it also says, measurments within 380-780nm so its impossible to get a detailed spectrum shot of the Agromax bulbs. What a shame..
Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
Yep, guess i’ll have to upgrade...you have any reasonable suggestions? Maybe just uva-c, blue. Lol
Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
Gotta say, on the meters, these 96s kick big bootay...four of them for 600w at the wall in 4x4, perfect 1000ppfd across the footprint, with great spectrum.
Fuckin amazing!
Can’t wait to get the 288 vs 96 extreme flowering smackdown going:
8x288 w supplemental reds/far red and co2 vs 6x96 w far red and co2, as close to same spectra as i can do...
Day 83 of the timber 48sams extreme flowering grow (a version of the 288 part, above), one plant harvested, 3 flushing, expecting 3-4 lbs...wondering what will these 96s (w more even spread than 288s) do in a competent grower’s tent?
Fuckin amazing!
Can’t wait to get the 288 vs 96 extreme flowering smackdown going:
8x288 w supplemental reds/far red and co2 vs 6x96 w far red and co2, as close to same spectra as i can do...
Day 83 of the timber 48sams extreme flowering grow (a version of the 288 part, above), one plant harvested, 3 flushing, expecting 3-4 lbs...wondering what will these 96s (w more even spread than 288s) do in a competent grower’s tent?
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Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
I always rag on about the need for a good ppfd meter...so here’s some more...lol
As a commercial grower (diff crop), it always amazes me how much time and money diy’rs put into their perfect looking frames/fixtures, but won’t buy a decent light meter...i would much rather have a ghetto rig and a good meter, than any of these obviously beautifully crafted fixtures with no meter...but,better yet, both!
You don’t need a fancy one or even a ppfd one, just a consistent one, for measuring intensity. Get one and use it, a whole new improvement pathway will open up for you...
As a commercial grower (diff crop), it always amazes me how much time and money diy’rs put into their perfect looking frames/fixtures, but won’t buy a decent light meter...i would much rather have a ghetto rig and a good meter, than any of these obviously beautifully crafted fixtures with no meter...but,better yet, both!
You don’t need a fancy one or even a ppfd one, just a consistent one, for measuring intensity. Get one and use it, a whole new improvement pathway will open up for you...
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Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
@Frank Cannon, thanks for your question, cuz it again points out how fucking good these lights are, particularly in this configuration.
So, for four 96s, in a 4x4, at 120 Watts (at wall) per 96:
24” is the transition height from veg to flower (600ppfd). This is the mapping;
[At 12:12, i’d switch to 18” and up wattage to 200-240 (check mapping at 18”)]
36” w/ all four 96s running, coverage is an even 500ppfd.
Shutting off one light at 36”, gives even 400 ppfd coverage.
Shutting off a second light, diagonal to the other off light, gives an even 300ppfd, considered the transition point from propagation to veg.
This is so sweet, you don’t even need to move a light in the fixture/frame.
Enjoy
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Frank Cannon
Well-Known Member
Well I bought a lux meter now too bro
Thanks @Or_Gro, seems like @Prawn Connery was on the money re height and wattage too.
When you say "36” w/ all four 96s running, coverage is an even 500ppfd" - this at 120w still yes?
I can only run 160w per 96 due to driver size, but even so I will almost not have to adjust height either if stretch goes to plan, just adjust input juice, f*%k does it get any easier
Thanks also to @pulpoinspace and @Airwalker16 for recommending I go this way also. Proof will be in the pudding but this has gotta be one of the easiest ways for LED newbs like myself to start - with the info in this and a couple of other threads.
Have a tin for me boys
FC
Thanks @Or_Gro, seems like @Prawn Connery was on the money re height and wattage too.
When you say "36” w/ all four 96s running, coverage is an even 500ppfd" - this at 120w still yes?
I can only run 160w per 96 due to driver size, but even so I will almost not have to adjust height either if stretch goes to plan, just adjust input juice, f*%k does it get any easier
Thanks also to @pulpoinspace and @Airwalker16 for recommending I go this way also. Proof will be in the pudding but this has gotta be one of the easiest ways for LED newbs like myself to start - with the info in this and a couple of other threads.
Have a tin for me boys
FC
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
If you take an HLG-320H-54A(dimmable down to 40-50%) for each two e96's and you'll get up to 380w at the wall out of two boards. Probably even more if you turn up the voltage regulator to max voltage too.Well I bought a lux meter now too bro
Thanks @Or_Gro, seems like @Prawn Connery was on the money re height and wattage too.
When you say "36” w/ all four 96s running, coverage is an even 500ppfd" - this at 120w still yes?
I can only run 160w per 96 due to driver size, but even so I will almost not have to adjust height either if stretch goes to plan, just adjust input juice, f*%k does it get any easier
Thanks also to @pulpoinspace and @Airwalker16 for recommending I go this way also. Proof will be in the pudding but this has gotta be one of the easiest ways for LED newbs like myself to start - with the info in this and a couple of other threads.
Have a tin for me boys
FC
The 48v A version of this driver(test report below) has for instance 6,7A in the datasheet but can go as high as 7,66amps; with the 54v version it's probably the same. Instead of 5,95A you can get up to 6,75amps or so..
Simply google: "meanwell HLG-320H-54A testreport.pdf" to find the 54v driver test. These test reports are available for each meanwell driver and full of useful infos. Makes it a little easier to fully understand how they work and what you can expect. Usually the CV/CC versions can go higher like the CC driver version and A version can go higher like B version drivers(with external dimming). This means with the CV/CC A versions you'll get always the best performance.
There is only one thing you need to keep an eye on with parallel wiring; wire length and diameter. The output wires are awg14 or 2,5mm² and you should use at least the same diameter to bridge the distance between driver and fixture to keep resistance losses as low as possible. This is especially important if you mount the driver outside of the tent. The longer and smaller the wires the higher the resistance loss and in the worst case they can get too hot.
If these boards have solder joints; use them! If not you can use smaller awg18 single core wire to connect the boards and use Wago clamps or terminal blocks to connect them to the awg14 wires coming from the driver. But keep the awg18 section as short as possible.
Frank Cannon
Well-Known Member
Thanks Random, I got the HLG-320-54b type drivers and I did use 14g twin core because of the remote mounting, I got the b type because I was going to mount drivers inside tent and wanted it to be easy, then I decided to remote mount - serves me right for jumping in to early and ignoring some advice but the set up will be ok for my first LED i.e. I shouldn't be able to pump the system too hard, I can always change it a bit later if I desire. They are 320w at the wall full noise connected to a dimmer at 54.1V
FC
FC
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Sounds good!
Yeah, the dimmer limits it to 100% if its a 100k poti. Only A version has build in regulators for voltage and current. With the B version(< or =54v) its running in constant current mode anyway and compensates wire losses automaticly. Thats probably the 0,1v you are above 54v...
I've done the same and switched to a remotely wired HLG-320H-C1750B driver just because heat is one limiting factor in my setup and each HLG-320 produce already ~20w of pure heat at 100%(5-6%).
Better to keep that heat out of the tent if you don't need it.
One could also reuse the heat and heat up the incomming air or the grow table in winter.
Remote wiring has a few good benefits.
I realy like this cheap low reststance "Aviation Connectors" from e3ay.. 1,15$! They are available with 2-16 pins and in different layouts. These are for connecting the wires to an external driver housing(3 pin for powercord and 2 pin for the dc connection) but you can get them also to connect just two powercords or 2 DC outputs.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Waiting on mine! I got one side wall mount for a junction box.
Frank Cannon
Well-Known Member
Yes I like this idea alot, booked
Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
Yes, on wattage, only variables that changed were height and on/off.Well I bought a lux meter now too bro
Thanks @Or_Gro, seems like @Prawn Connery was on the money re height and wattage too.
When you say "36” w/ all four 96s running, coverage is an even 500ppfd" - this at 120w still yes?
I can only run 160w per 96 due to driver size, but even so I will almost not have to adjust height either if stretch goes to plan, just adjust input juice, f*%k does it get any easier
Thanks also to @pulpoinspace and @Airwalker16 for recommending I go this way also. Proof will be in the pudding but this has gotta be one of the easiest ways for LED newbs like myself to start - with the info in this and a couple of other threads.
Have a tin for me boys
FC
Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
“A”s definitely give max control, and way higher than labeled wattage. Just look at some of my earlier posts cranking voltage and amp dimmers for 360w/light at the wall on a 240 driver...need to keep safety, efficiency, and lifetime in mind, tho...
trojanvirus
Well-Known Member
I'm not promoting anything here man, I'm just broke af and want things too.
Do you guys think this driver will work?
Do you guys think this driver will work?
trojanvirus
Well-Known Member
I see them 150-240W for 54v... maybe they more convenient?
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Those are to be attached to round pin sinks, buy they aren't mean well efficient.
trojanvirus
Well-Known Member
What is Meanwell efficient at 110V? oh time to go compare i suppose. I did learn though that all the drivers are more efficient at 240v, which makes me want to run a cable...
Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
So, i really like @Randomblame ’s approach (and, of course, knowledge) re relative % red:deep red:far red.
I’ll approach it from another direction, defining the %s, based on what actual works in a grow.
Here is the spectrum under eight 288s (laying 1000ppfd on plant tops), with four hlg 35s (running full lightson):
If you estimate the area of each spectral band (r:dr:fr), you can define the relative %s; which from my sloppiness turns out to be somewhere near 60%:25%:15%, for a respectable grow:
You don’t like my nums, roll you own...and post em...
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Failsafehydro
Member
What has been the lead time on shipping for these lately ?