FuZZyBUDz
Well-Known Member
as the title suggests, im recommending a "pre-veg" b4 shifting into the more intense growing conditions and nute regiments. now fer those of u saying
"MORE TIME GROWING!?!?!?!"
NO. im not sayin take more time into ur growing, just simply suggesting a lil switch in ur style u got goin right now?
a plus to it with u HID growers, it can help shave sum electricity cost off in the end too! AND youll be able to use a smaller growing area fer the first couple weeks after ur cutting have rooted.
IN THE END its about getting bigger and heavier harvest, with lees problems, all the while maintaining a healthy plant(s).
look at it like building a house, u start with the foundation then werk ur way up. with the foundation being the roots of course, lol. BUT with pre-veg were not only talkin about the root system they r just the start of the focus.
experienced growers BACK ME UP on this one but, the way to acheive a good healthy crop is wen the plant "comes out of the gate" STRONG and healthy with NO interruptions or "hiccops".
this thread pertains to ROOTED cutting, thats wen the "pre-veg" state should begin.(showing roots and in fresh air)
placing ur rooted cutting in (16 oz) beer cups r perfect fer pre-veg. these containers provide the perfect balance of hydration, to growing media.
hydro growers should use a bigger RW cube (or media of ur choice) OR just set the plant in clay pebbles in the net pot ur using, that should do.
be careful tho, wen kno how tender these lil girls r now.
rough handling can lead to hiccops, or even WORSE!!
pretreat or cubes or soil or WATEVER first, best to use sum helpers in it (hormones, vitamins, ect...) helps plants be more resilient to shock, or worse.
if using soil/soilless mixes, the texture should b course, altho able to retain a decent amount of hydration and moisture. as the volume of growing media should b relatively small per plant in th PRE-veg phase, if using COCO an additional 1/3 of the final volume in medium textured perlite helps improve drainage, and allows fer higher air ratios around the roots that help to encourage beneficial microbial growth in the developing root system.
PRO peat based (that contain perlite) mixes werk wonders in PRE-veg phases.
make sure u put PROPER (adequate) drainage in all the beer cups or watever ur using tho, it is a MUST fer strong roots. its important that the roots breath WITH OUT drying up. place the cups (or watever) on nursery trays, to further promote air circulation.
grow rocks AND rockwool should be treated 24 hours in advance, RW is a naturally alkaline so it needs to be treated with a solution of acid with a PH of around 5.0 fer 24 hours too.
now that ur pre-veg media is charged it will help encourage a 'quick strike' roots throo the media. KEEPING in the theme of "NO interruptions in healthy and consistent growth" to create lager yields LATER.
take care not to OVER compact the media or ur choice, the goal is to create a gentle touch from media to media, all the while keeping pores in the NEW media fer beneficial root growth.
SIMPLY put DONT just squash the mix around the plant too hard. lol
the first watering IS the most important. it helps to fasten the roots of the transplants to the fresh growth media, HOWever u DONT want to ov er saturate the media leaving no air space in there.
generally the companies provide PRE-veg charts, and nute schedules. but typically the overall EC/PPM is quite mild, about 0.5 EC and 350 PPM.u will need to adjust the PH accordingly to the media u r using.
the PRE-veg phase should contain a full spectrum of microbial and bio-active ingredients like humiliates, fulminates, root stimulaters, vitamins, as well as full and balanced micro- and macro- nutrient pack from base nute selection.
microbial inoculants encourage faster root growth and stronger development too, AND helps protect tender young plants from potential diseases such as root and stem rot.
pre-veg phase is to supply a MILD, complete and balanced charge of nutes. WHILE providing a HIGH degree of healthy biological activity in the rooot zone.
LOW NUTES, HIGH BIO-ACTIVITY!!!!
the goal of this is to create many healthy sets of leaves and foliage WITHOUT over fertilizing it, while creating a very prolific, vibrant, microbial active root system.
plants that begin there lifes fitting this description will later yiled HIGHER and better quality harvest, and r more strong to cotsly pests and disease.
OVER FERTS in the pre-veg phase is BAD!!! u will end up with soft, and spindly transplants while tall, r not goin to offer u the nutrient hungry beast u r lookin fer.
OPTIMAL temps r a must, too hott and dry u got stressed plants that r prone to pests process, too cold and wet ur lookin into diseased possibility.
obviously it can werk either way tho. it important to understand the ramifications of growing crops outside the optimal range of conditions.
for pre-veg 75 to 80 degrees is optimal, SHOULD REMAIN CONSTANT THO!
bio-activity is optimal at this temp without stressing the less developed newer plants.
humidity SLIGHTLY higher, depending on the plant and strain tho of course. most find that a 60-70 RH is optimal fer most in pre-veg. helps to reduce water loss throo the leafs. if its too dry, the increase rqate of wter loss will most likely stunt the growth of the plant.
while higher RH levels will reduce water loss i the leafs creating a "lazy" root system build.
its best to use a FLORO system (t5, t8, t12) or CFL's, altho LED will do too. u want around a 4500 kelvin rating will be optimal fer this stage of life in ur plant(s). a good 1000 to 1300 LUMMENS is sufficient and proved well in supplying young plants in the pre-veg phase.
dont push them too hard with light tho.
usually pre-veg phase will last about 10-14 days b4 transplanting into bigger pots. during this time u will want to gradually bring up the air circulation, nute levels, BUT in moderation tho.
the key is NOT to stress the plant, while not letting it get "lazy" on u.
in the end u should have LUSH green 8-10 inch cuttings that have GREAT strong FuZZy root systems. these "super transplants" will generally need LESS time in the veg phase to reach their ideal stature b4 inducing FLOWERING. they will develop better than other cuz they r ready to. lol. and they will be able to handle more intense conditions, in fact these lil things r practically CRAVING them.
"MORE TIME GROWING!?!?!?!"
NO. im not sayin take more time into ur growing, just simply suggesting a lil switch in ur style u got goin right now?
a plus to it with u HID growers, it can help shave sum electricity cost off in the end too! AND youll be able to use a smaller growing area fer the first couple weeks after ur cutting have rooted.
IN THE END its about getting bigger and heavier harvest, with lees problems, all the while maintaining a healthy plant(s).
look at it like building a house, u start with the foundation then werk ur way up. with the foundation being the roots of course, lol. BUT with pre-veg were not only talkin about the root system they r just the start of the focus.
experienced growers BACK ME UP on this one but, the way to acheive a good healthy crop is wen the plant "comes out of the gate" STRONG and healthy with NO interruptions or "hiccops".
this thread pertains to ROOTED cutting, thats wen the "pre-veg" state should begin.(showing roots and in fresh air)
placing ur rooted cutting in (16 oz) beer cups r perfect fer pre-veg. these containers provide the perfect balance of hydration, to growing media.
hydro growers should use a bigger RW cube (or media of ur choice) OR just set the plant in clay pebbles in the net pot ur using, that should do.
be careful tho, wen kno how tender these lil girls r now.
rough handling can lead to hiccops, or even WORSE!!
pretreat or cubes or soil or WATEVER first, best to use sum helpers in it (hormones, vitamins, ect...) helps plants be more resilient to shock, or worse.
if using soil/soilless mixes, the texture should b course, altho able to retain a decent amount of hydration and moisture. as the volume of growing media should b relatively small per plant in th PRE-veg phase, if using COCO an additional 1/3 of the final volume in medium textured perlite helps improve drainage, and allows fer higher air ratios around the roots that help to encourage beneficial microbial growth in the developing root system.
PRO peat based (that contain perlite) mixes werk wonders in PRE-veg phases.
make sure u put PROPER (adequate) drainage in all the beer cups or watever ur using tho, it is a MUST fer strong roots. its important that the roots breath WITH OUT drying up. place the cups (or watever) on nursery trays, to further promote air circulation.
grow rocks AND rockwool should be treated 24 hours in advance, RW is a naturally alkaline so it needs to be treated with a solution of acid with a PH of around 5.0 fer 24 hours too.
now that ur pre-veg media is charged it will help encourage a 'quick strike' roots throo the media. KEEPING in the theme of "NO interruptions in healthy and consistent growth" to create lager yields LATER.
take care not to OVER compact the media or ur choice, the goal is to create a gentle touch from media to media, all the while keeping pores in the NEW media fer beneficial root growth.
SIMPLY put DONT just squash the mix around the plant too hard. lol
the first watering IS the most important. it helps to fasten the roots of the transplants to the fresh growth media, HOWever u DONT want to ov er saturate the media leaving no air space in there.
generally the companies provide PRE-veg charts, and nute schedules. but typically the overall EC/PPM is quite mild, about 0.5 EC and 350 PPM.u will need to adjust the PH accordingly to the media u r using.
the PRE-veg phase should contain a full spectrum of microbial and bio-active ingredients like humiliates, fulminates, root stimulaters, vitamins, as well as full and balanced micro- and macro- nutrient pack from base nute selection.
microbial inoculants encourage faster root growth and stronger development too, AND helps protect tender young plants from potential diseases such as root and stem rot.
pre-veg phase is to supply a MILD, complete and balanced charge of nutes. WHILE providing a HIGH degree of healthy biological activity in the rooot zone.
LOW NUTES, HIGH BIO-ACTIVITY!!!!
the goal of this is to create many healthy sets of leaves and foliage WITHOUT over fertilizing it, while creating a very prolific, vibrant, microbial active root system.
plants that begin there lifes fitting this description will later yiled HIGHER and better quality harvest, and r more strong to cotsly pests and disease.
OVER FERTS in the pre-veg phase is BAD!!! u will end up with soft, and spindly transplants while tall, r not goin to offer u the nutrient hungry beast u r lookin fer.
OPTIMAL temps r a must, too hott and dry u got stressed plants that r prone to pests process, too cold and wet ur lookin into diseased possibility.
obviously it can werk either way tho. it important to understand the ramifications of growing crops outside the optimal range of conditions.
for pre-veg 75 to 80 degrees is optimal, SHOULD REMAIN CONSTANT THO!
bio-activity is optimal at this temp without stressing the less developed newer plants.
humidity SLIGHTLY higher, depending on the plant and strain tho of course. most find that a 60-70 RH is optimal fer most in pre-veg. helps to reduce water loss throo the leafs. if its too dry, the increase rqate of wter loss will most likely stunt the growth of the plant.
while higher RH levels will reduce water loss i the leafs creating a "lazy" root system build.
its best to use a FLORO system (t5, t8, t12) or CFL's, altho LED will do too. u want around a 4500 kelvin rating will be optimal fer this stage of life in ur plant(s). a good 1000 to 1300 LUMMENS is sufficient and proved well in supplying young plants in the pre-veg phase.
dont push them too hard with light tho.
usually pre-veg phase will last about 10-14 days b4 transplanting into bigger pots. during this time u will want to gradually bring up the air circulation, nute levels, BUT in moderation tho.
the key is NOT to stress the plant, while not letting it get "lazy" on u.
in the end u should have LUSH green 8-10 inch cuttings that have GREAT strong FuZZy root systems. these "super transplants" will generally need LESS time in the veg phase to reach their ideal stature b4 inducing FLOWERING. they will develop better than other cuz they r ready to. lol. and they will be able to handle more intense conditions, in fact these lil things r practically CRAVING them.
