phosphorous or magnesium deficiency

teddy bonkers said:

lol, he comes in and tells you the same thing I told you and you thank him. This is why I stopped helping noobs a long time ago.
and no, don't "flush" anything.

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Sorry bro no offense of my side, but your first advice was to use plain water COUPLE TIMES and let it dry out (LOL). I think it would take a year maybe more to dry out. Than you recommend use VERY LOW dose of base nutrients. So I do not see there nothing same in compare to: rise up to EC 2,0-2,1. It is completely opposite thing I would say. Do not think hes noob anyway! maybe better to stop helping people because of you do not really want to figure out the problem and help them out of stressful situation they are but just only guess and have fun to misguide people somewhere to sh*ts and making experiments on others beloved plants.

Hollatchaboy said:

I believe I do.. . And sorry if I came off as unappreciative... I'm working so I'm trying to keep things short and sweet....i do appreciate the help tho... thanks again

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no worries. let's just get your plant in shape. that's what really matters.

Bukvičák said:

Sorry bro no offense of my side, but your first advice was to use plain water COUPLE TIMES and let it dry out (LOL). I think it would take a year maybe more to dry out. Than you recommend use VERY LOW dose of base nutrients. So I do not see there nothing same in compare to: rise up to EC 2,0-2,1. It is completely opposite thing I would say. Do not think hes noob anyway! maybe better to stop helping people because of you do not really want to figure out the problem and help them out of stressful situation they are but just only guess and have fun to misguide people somewhere to sh*ts and making experiments on others beloved plants.

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I think your reading comprehension is off. I told him to use water for a couple times when I thought he was in soil,(which would be correct) when you told me it was DWC, I made the correct recommendation. AND you're the DUMBASS who said it was a P deficiency. so maybe YOU should take your own advise BRO.

here you are again, telling someone they have a P deficency https://rollitup.org/t/any-clue-what-the-issue-could-be.1022166/#post-15630158
all while having a fucked up leaf as your avatar. here is something for you to read about P, maybe you can learn something from it.

@teddy bonkers look long and carefully at my avatar until you feel the vibe.

Definitely looking like some P deficiency but signs of others lacking as well so I'd go with higher ppm but cut way back on the CalMag. Your humidity is such that your plants aren't drinking enough to pull up adequate nutes so a higher ppm will help with that. I deal with very low RH most of the time so run lower ppm.

I trust my nutes to have a decent supply but as I use RO or distilled water only I do add some CalMag once in a while and at no more than half the recommended dose. That's in DWC but with soilless ProMix HP and hydro nutes I rarely add any as the media has lots.

CalMag is not the magic pill that a lot people think it is.

teddy bonkers said:

here you are again, telling someone they have a P deficency https://rollitup.org/t/any-clue-what-the-issue-could-be.1022166/#post-15630158
all while having a fucked up leaf as your avatar. here is something for you to read about P, maybe you can learn something from it.

The Never Ending Abuse of Phosphorous (Bloom foods) to Enhance Flowering

I wrote this years ago and thought I'd share it here. The never ending abuse of Phosphorous to enhance flowering A common mistake for growers when they reach the flowering stage is to start hitting the plants with a high P fert like a 10-50-10, continuing to use this blend exclusively, and...

rollitup.org

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This is my “old grandpa” leaf you will never find on any of your plants. When you get one leaf like this you can post it and will appologise. Untill you do it, you are exactly that NOOB you were talking about to me.

OldMedUser said:

@teddy bonkers look long and carefully at my avatar until you feel the vibe.

Definitely looking like some P deficiency but signs of others lacking as well so I'd go with higher ppm but cut way back on the CalMag. Your humidity is such that your plants aren't drinking enough to pull up adequate nutes so a higher ppm will help with that. I deal with very low RH most of the time so run lower ppm.

I trust my nutes to have a decent supply but as I use RO or distilled water only I do add some CalMag once in a while and at no more than half the recommended dose. That's in DWC but with soilless ProMix HP and hydro nutes I rarely add any as the media has lots.

CalMag is not the magic pill that a lot people think it is.

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I guess if nute lockout from antagonism is a p deficiency, then I guess you're KINDA right, but to tell the guy his problem is that when he clearly has no clue, then tell me I'm wrong, when I clearly nailed it on my first post. well, this is why I quit helping and am going to again. no respect for the help, just a bunch of no nothings running around spouting p deficiiencies. and everyone knows when you have nutrient antagonism, what you want to do is give a good dose of more nutes.

I'm gonna leave this right here, then I'm done with this;

In short, I think if you want to have the most success feeding your plants, less is always more. An interesting experiment to try without too much change is just dropping your EC below 2.0, most people are feeding 2.1-2.4 without including run-off maintenance, usually the run off is high 2 and in some cases 3-4 – at this point you should start to understand if you’re going in at 2.1 and your run off is higher, the plant is consuming very little and a now has concentrated near toxic environment in its rhizosphere (root zone), blocking uptake of all nutrients as a result.
Instead of battling with your reservoir or tank, try running lower EC/PPM nutrient strengths of 1.2 - 1.6 if you were previously using anything near 2.0 or above and you might be surprised with the outcome.

teddy bonkers said:

N	Excess nitrogen, causes the ratios to shift making Calcium & Potassium unavailable
P	Excess Phosphorus, can lock out important micro-elements, Zinc, copper & Iron
K	Excess Potassium, will affect how to plant consumes Calcium & Magnesium
Ca	Excess Calcium, reduced availability to Nitrogen, Magnesium, Boron & Phosphorus
Mg	Excess Magnesium, locks out Calcium & Potassium leads to complete Micro lockout
FE	Excess Iron, completely restricts Phosphorus and completely locks out Manganese
Mn	Excess Manganese, quite rare in excess, but locks out Calcium, Copper, Zinc & Iron

Cu	Excess Copper, antagonises Iron, Manganese & Phosphorus
Zn	Excess Zinc, antagonises Phosphorus, Copper & Iron
Mb	Excess Molybdenum, severe Copper deficiency, further locking out Iron & Zinc
Na	Excess Sodium can create lots of problems limiting Potassium
B	Excess Boron, Locks out Calcium & Potassium
S	Excess Sulfur, quite rare, limits Nitrogen, Magnesium, Phosphorus & Calciu

OH BOY, excess cal locks out P


OH BOY, Excess M locks out P
let's give it more nutes to lock out more shit. ID 10 TS

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Nice tab! But this is ridiculous at all. I would suggest to stop this in name of my APPOLOGISMENT. Agreed?

teddy bonkers said:

I'm gonna leave this right here, then I'm done with this;

In short, I think if you want to have the most success feeding your plants, less is always more. An interesting experiment to try without too much change is just dropping your EC below 2.0, most people are feeding 2.1-2.4 without including run-off maintenance, usually the run off is high 2 and in some cases 3-4 – at this point you should start to understand if you’re going in at 2.1 and your run off is higher, the plant is consuming very little and a now has concentrated near toxic environment in its rhizosphere (root zone), blocking uptake of all nutrients as a result.
Instead of battling with your reservoir or tank, try running lower EC/PPM nutrient strengths of 1.2 - 1.6 if you were previously using anything near 2.0 or above and you might be surprised with the outcome.

Geek Out with A-Grade

Hydroponics Online - Complete Growing packages, LED Grow Lights, Hydroponic Equipment, Hydroponic grow supplies, Propagation Starter Kits, Hydroponic Nutrients, Grow Packs, Grow rooms, Grow pots, Ventilation systems and more all available in our Hydroponic supplies shop in Melbourne, Australia

agradehydroponics.com

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Teddy bonkers, I'm not arguing with you in any way...i appreciate your input as well as others. Nutrient deficiencies are difficult for first time growers like me. A lot of them end up showing similar symptoms. This is my first time in hydro. Growing in soil I never had any problems with deficiencies. I included the latest pic from my grow journal. I believe I'm running around the ec that the article suggests. Again.. no disrespect to you or anybody on here. The help is greatly appreciated.

Hollatchaboy said:

Thank you renfro... should I do a flush first... then mix up 1000 - 1100 ppm of base nutes only?

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So I have seen you use the term flush several times and I'm thinking that you do not understand what you're talking about. Flushing is when you try to dilute nutrient solution out of a medium to wash out excess salts by adding a weak nutrient solution or water. I believe what you are mean to say is reservoir change. You never have to flush in DWC because there is nothing to flush out. If you want to starve your plants the last few weeks and call that a flush then you are at least using the same terminology that most people who believe in that do, but stop using the term flush because it will just confuse yourself and others.

As far as your problem, it's been answered correctly. You do have to use cal-mag because you are using R.O. water (do you really need it? Or did somebody convince you that you needed it? Water under 150 ppm out of the tap with a good pH is fine to use as is for 99% of people). I personally have gone back and forth with the way I use gh 3 part but always come back to Lucas Formula. Don't use the green bottle at all. If you want to get rid of all your stress and problems and doubt, just use the Lucas formula. You can google it.

teddy bonkers said:

I'm gonna leave this right here, then I'm done with this;

In short, I think if you want to have the most success feeding your plants, less is always more. An interesting experiment to try without too much change is just dropping your EC below 2.0, most people are feeding 2.1-2.4 without including run-off maintenance, usually the run off is high 2 and in some cases 3-4 – at this point you should start to understand if you’re going in at 2.1 and your run off is higher, the plant is consuming very little and a now has concentrated near toxic environment in its rhizosphere (root zone), blocking uptake of all nutrients as a result.
Instead of battling with your reservoir or tank, try running lower EC/PPM nutrient strengths of 1.2 - 1.6 if you were previously using anything near 2.0 or above and you might be surprised with the outcome.

Geek Out with A-Grade

Hydroponics Online - Complete Growing packages, LED Grow Lights, Hydroponic Equipment, Hydroponic grow supplies, Propagation Starter Kits, Hydroponic Nutrients, Grow Packs, Grow rooms, Grow pots, Ventilation systems and more all available in our Hydroponic supplies shop in Melbourne, Australia

agradehydroponics.com

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100% bullshit. Less is never more. Dumbest thing that gets repeated on boards. Less sucks, more sucks. you want to give them as much as they can take Goldie Locks. Less is better is a tantra for people who can't figure out how much to give them, for them less is better because they screw it up trying to find the right amount. Whatever happened to the proven fail safe advice of push it up till you see burn then back off? And this guy is in DWC DWC DWC DWC so stop freaking talking about run-off. FFS

DaFreak said:

100% bullshit. Less is never more. Dumbest thing that gets repeated on boards. Less sucks, more sucks. you want to give them as much as they can take Goldie Locks. Less is better is a tantra for people who can't figure out how much to give them, for them less is better because they screw it up trying to find the right amount. Whatever happened to the proven fail safe advice of push it up till you see burn then back off? And this guy is in DWC DWC DWC DWC so stop freaking talking about run-off. FFS

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I didn't write that. I posted a link to the site I got it from. If everything else is good, then up your nutes, he needs to fix the problem first. DERP. and pushing nutes went out with bad growing.

Bukvičák said:

Nice tab! But this is ridiculous at all. I would suggest to stop this in name of my APPOLOGISMENT. Agreed?

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I'm sorry I said something different than your boy renfro, maybe he will let you take him in the back for a nice handy J. cause that's really what you're mad about.

DaFreak said:

So I have seen you use the term flush several times and I'm thinking that you do not understand what you're talking about. Flushing is when you try to dilute nutrient solution out of a medium to wash out excess salts by adding a weak nutrient solution or water. I believe what you are mean to say is reservoir change. You never have to flush in DWC because there is nothing to flush out. If you want to starve your plants the last few weeks and call that a flush then you are at least using the same terminology that most people who believe in that do, but stop using the term flush because it will just confuse yourself and others.

As far as your problem, it's been answered correctly. You do have to use cal-mag because you are using R.O. water (do you really need it? Or did somebody convince you that you needed it? Water under 150 ppm out of the tap with a good pH is fine to use as is for 99% of people). I personally have gone back and forth with the way I use gh 3 part but always come back to Lucas Formula. Don't use the green bottle at all. If you want to get rid of all your stress and problems and doubt, just use the Lucas formula. You can google it.

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this is wrong too. Nutrients should have enough even for r/o water. I am so done with you dummies.

Your light levels are noted as: 0 which is quite low given the fact I see a plant that appears to be a aeqatorial sativa genotype (these can take a boatload of light).

It already does display signs of too less light... can you make it that it develops, at least, 9-fingered leaves when exposed to direct lamplight when they grow?

The lightlevels are going to influence the nute demand greatly until CO2 capped.

Can you gently scratch at the purple stem residue using your fingernails... does it stay fix or is under your nails? The latter would be indicative of a P-def, resulting in reduced overall growth plus assimilate-buildup, mostly anthocyanidines.

EC 0.7 in CalMag alone wtf?! That would be even considered high for tapwater that has alot of other stuff in it + your plant may be a "low-feed" chemotype, too.
Perhaps go by EC 0.2 CalMag? Remember bottled CalMag is fully absorbably by the roots and not some kind of "chalk".

Lockout from ionic rivalry most likely.
Yes, it can get confusing... you have "too much in the feeding water" (of something) resulting in "too little in the plants fluids" (of something else). Its more common than uncommon.

Overfeeding is MUCH worse than underfeeding. Full stop!

teddy bonkers said:

I'm sorry I said something different than your boy renfro, maybe he will let you take him in the back for a nice handy J. cause that's really what you're mad about.

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Look, if you have ran out of weed you bought in your local favourite coffeeshop than there is nothing easier than start to try growing your own. It only take some time so if you want to behave like that all the time I would recommend to go buy another one because not the whole thing but only you are ridiculous. I am taking my appoligise back. sorry to @Hollatchaboy for spamming your thread. I am out GG

No apologies needed.... constructive criticism gets things done