On/Off functin for meanwell HLG style drivers using dimming and arduino

ya bongo said:

all these RTC moduls have a back up batterie. as long as the batterie is good the time will be correct.
View attachment 3789467

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When the clock gets power again it remembers the time it went off. It can't calculate how long it has been off. It can only continue from where it was or else the time would default back to origin when no battery was installed. Peace

qballizhere said:

The concerns I had was putting 30a on a relay that is rated for 20a NO and 10a NC
using https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13815 that he has linked to they even say in the discription in open airflow the PCB can handle the full 20A for a few minutes at a time. I dont know about you but I run my lights more than a few min at a time. I would have to test the heat and longevity of the relay over time vs ssr
making a blanket statement saying it will handle 16 hlg 185s
The phase current I in amps (A) is equal to the power P in watts (W), divided by the power factorPF times the RMS voltage V in volts
http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/Watt_to_Amp_Calculator.htm
185x110x1=1.68a each driver so x16 = 26.88a cant be ran on 110v ac
185x220x1=0.84a x16= 13.44 will work

The better thing to say would be it depends on your setup and what you want to run. You can run a max of 20a but a possible of up to 16 drivers connected.

Im not saying not to get the controller but have realistic ideas and some electrical knowledge before connecting 16 drivers to the controller
Guess the privacy concerns you had are gone since you will be adding bluetooth and wifi

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You are wrong and are wrong to public make the statement
You took a private conversation public because you could. I feel for you because you lacked the understanding needed. So you go public attempting to shame me and stop ne how belittling you are namaste .

qballizhere said:

The concerns I had was putting 30a on a relay that is rated for 20a NO and 10a NC
using https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13815 that he has linked to they even say in the discription in open airflow the PCB can handle the full 20A for a few minutes at a time. I dont know about you but I run my lights more than a few min at a time. I would have to test the heat and longevity of the relay over time vs ssr
making a blanket statement saying it will handle 16 hlg 185s
The phase current I in amps (A) is equal to the power P in watts (W), divided by the power factorPF times the RMS voltage V in volts
http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/Watt_to_Amp_Calculator.htm
185x110x1=1.68a each driver so x16 = 26.88a cant be ran on 110v ac
185x220x1=0.84a x16= 13.44 will work

The better thing to say would be it depends on your setup and what you want to run. You can run a max of 20a but a possible of up to 16 drivers connected.

Im not saying not to get the controller but have realistic ideas and some electrical knowledge before connecting 16 drivers to the controller
Guess the privacy concerns you had are gone since you will be adding bluetooth and wifi

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Yes you are saying bad things, and it is wrong what you are saying. Each relay works independent of each other. The pwm signal goes to each relay not additive. Each relay is rated at 30 amps and each relay carries less than 2 amps per driver, 700mA to 2100mA average. The relays are just fine for use. Each relay does not get anywhere near the level you observe by your calculations. There is also an available receptacle outlet available from Adafruit that performs the same activity for $20 per outlet, which you can find in this thread. You should read before speaking about electrical engineering issues. This has been researched and the outlet works, and the relay works..
Namaste

VegasWinner said:

When the clock gets power again it remembers the time it went off. It can't calculate how long it has been off. It can only continue from where it was or else the time would default back to origin when no battery was installed. Peace

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i guess i just dont understand why it works this way.i mean if it has an internal battery for memory it should always know the time? i have a gavita light controller that does all these funtions,its just a 120v plug in the wall controller.but when power goes out and comes back on i do nothing,it just knows what was going on before and all programs are still intact including time of day.i guess i could solve the problem by using your controller with a ups battery backup like i have for my pc ?

VegasWinner said:

You are wrong and are wrong to public make the statement
You took a private conversation public because you could. I feel for you because you lacked the understanding needed. So you go public attempting to shame me and stop ne how belittling you are namaste .

Click to expand...

I was just voicing my opinion and yes I did in private conversation first giving you a chance to explain it not belittling anyone but since you are so offended before you point your finger have a look there will be 3 more point back when you do it.
If you have more than one driver connected to the controller you have to add the amperage from each driver together. You said in your message that growmau5 uses the same thing maybe but that is only 2 drivers for the light you said you can have 16 on a 20a relay not a 30a relay

VegasWinner said:

Yes you are saying bad things, and it is wrong what you are saying. Each relay works independent of each other. The pwm signal goes to each relay not additive. Each relay is rated at 30 amps and each relay carries less than 2 amps per driver, 700mA to 2100mA average. The relays are just fine for use. Each relay does not get anywhere near the level you observe by your calculations. There is also an available receptacle outlet available from Adafruit that performs the same activity for $20 per outlet, which you can find in this thread. You should read before speaking about electrical engineering issues. This has been researched and the outlet works, and the relay works..
Namaste

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Lets read the description https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13815
they tell you 20A max for a few min they call is a 30 a relay because 10a is possible on the NC side and 20a NO im not making anything up that is what sparkfun published about the relay you are using and linking to

In my calculations its taking what you said and maxing the controller out hlg 185 and it can control 16 of them only if you are on 220v if you are on 110v you can you have to add the commutative load of all the drivers for the relay

sixstring2112 said:

i guess i just dont understand why it works this way.i mean if it has an internal battery for memory it should always know the time? i have a gavita light controller that does all these funtions,its just a 120v plug in the wall controller.but when power goes out and comes back on i do nothing,it just knows what was going on before and all programs are still intact including time of day.i guess i could solve the problem by using your controller with a ups battery backup like i have for my pc ?

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Yeah it really seems like this should be possible if it has a battery inside. The UPS option could work as long as the controller can be the only thing powered by the UPS (and not the actual lights) cos otherwise the UPS ain't gonna last long.

I want to clarify a misunderstanding. This unit replaces all timers and dimmers in your system leaving your existing power configuration as is. No changes in amps or volts just the assurance your lights will go on and off on schedule without failure except for a power failure including setting brightness and using suplamental lighting if that is your course of action. Otherwise it is a seamless inclusion to allow growers to focus on the Grow Green hence the name. Peace

qballizhere said:

Lets read the description https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13815
they tell you 20A max for a few min they call is a 30 a relay because 10a is possible on the NC side and 20a NO im not making anything up that is what sparkfun published about the relay you are using and linking to

In my calculations its taking what you said and maxing the controller out hlg 185 and it can control 16 of them only if you are on 220v if you are on 110v you can you have to add the commutative load of all the drivers for the relay

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One relay one circuit try that each relay can only sustain one wire. Where are you hooking up the othet 15 wires? One relay one wire one amp level.

qballizhere said:

Lets read the description https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13815
they tell you 20A max for a few min they call is a 30 a relay because 10a is possible on the NC side and 20a NO im not making anything up that is what sparkfun published about the relay you are using and linking to

In my calculations its taking what you said and maxing the controller out hlg 185 and it can control 16 of them only if you are on 220v if you are on 110v you can you have to add the commutative load of all the drivers for the relay

Click to expand...

Please just stop you are now trolling and it looks bad on you need

VegasWinner said:

One relay one circuit try that each relay can only sustain one wire. Where are you hooking up the othet 15 wires? One relay one wire one amp level.

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those with little imagination or knowledge you dont know how to branch off wiring or use terminal blocks or connectors?
bet you didnt consider the wire sizing for the circuit your not running anything smaller than 12 ga wire on the relay now are you

MrTwist1 said:

Yeah it really seems like this should be possible if it has a battery inside. The UPS option could work as long as the controller can be the only thing powered by the UPS (and not the actual lights) cos otherwise the UPS ain't gonna last long.

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Yeah i was talking about just the controller on battery backup, the drivers would still get power from a live 240v outlet like they do now.this controller just does dimming to 0% which is like turning it off as i understand it?

Ok here is the circuity for the 5v to 10v pwm conversion. it uses a npn2222a bipolar transistor, cost $0.08. 2 -1000 ohm resistors, and a 10v power supply, peace

sixstring2112 said:

Yeah i was talking about just the controller on battery backup, the drivers would still get power from a live 240v outlet like they do now.this controller just does dimming to 0% which is like turning it off as i understand it?

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if the cohntroller is on battery backup it starts right where it left off, missing seconds at best. peace

If you use a mean well12v power supply for the 0 - 10v pwm you should use a 2.2k resistor before the tap to reduce 12v to 10v. Peace

VegasWinner said:

Ok here is the circuity for the 5v to 10v pwm conversion. it uses a npn2222a bipolar transistor, cost $0.08. 2 -1000 ohm resistors, and a 10v power supply, peace
View attachment 3789635

Click to expand...

what you are showing up is a transistor Killer, you are shorten the output of the PSU without a resitor from VDC to the collector.

level conversion from 5 to 10 volt looks like this

as this circuit inverts the signal, the output from the arduino has to be inverted to

ya bongo said:

what you are showing up is a transistor Killer, you are shorten the output of the PSU without a resitor from VDC to the collector.

level conversion from 5 to 10 volt looks like this
View attachment 3789690
as this circuit inverts the signal, the output from the arduino has to be inverted to

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I appreciate your input. However, there is a 1k resistor between the arduino pwm pin and the base of the transistor. The power supply will be 10v so there is no need for a resistor between the collector and the power supply as you want as close to 10v as possible. A 9v battery would work, but only delivers 9v. placing the emitter to ground allows for maximum volts from the supply to the driver.
peace

The controller will include an npn 2a2222 transistor with a 1k resistor from the arduino to the base of the transistor. A tap for the 0-10v will be provided, as well for each channel as well as a 10v wall power supply along with the 12v power supply for the Arduino. The solution for 10v pwm is simple. peace. Eight of these will be included as part of the pwm cables already included. A 10v power supply is about $5 delivered. For channels using LDD drivers no modification is necessary. peace

ya bongo said:

what you are showing up is a transistor Killer, you are shorten the output of the PSU without a resitor from VDC to the collector.

level conversion from 5 to 10 volt looks like this
View attachment 3789690
as this circuit inverts the signal, the output from the arduino has to be inverted to

Click to expand...

For those wondering the original circuit I provided is called an emitter follower circuit, the simpler approach, called high side switching,rather than using a pnp transistor and low side switching which requires more circuitry for he same result. The 1k resistor from the arduino pin to the base of the bipolar transistor is to limit the base current and loading of the Arduino pwm output pin. A rather simple approach to converting 5v pwm to 10v pwm. I hope this helps with understanding peace

I need folks to understand something. I spent many hours researching and developing code for the original DIY Gr4owGreen LED Controller, which I placed in the public domain with a parts list and complete code and links to various options to use the controller for your own use and add to your DIY Lights and room. A lot of DIY folks, and I am one of them. I McGyver everything I use. I make custom aeroponics systems, lighting, power, heating, cooling even renewable energy.

I noticed when everyone started building DIY lights they needed a way to control supplemental lighting along with their COB fixtures, just like me. I had more timers than I care to think of, maybe six or seven in total. I bought a Coralux thinking this will solve the problem. NOT. One start and stop time for all channels, and code modification, forget about it to obtuse. Next I bought a typhon Controller. Has limited usability. Not easy to change and I HATE the buttons in a dark room. that just sucks when you have visual acuity.

Sop I decided to fix thee problem. That is what I do. The four button DIY model solves e problem but leaves the button issues still, which I HATE. SO I decided to bite the button and develop a roraty encoder model with a 20x4 LCD screen, for the visual acuity issue.

I discovered I had bitten off a big bite. No real approach out there, so I had to create from scratch. I designed a rotary Encoder Library to just what I need done and no more to save memory. I also had to re-write the entire code to be totally modular and usable for various devices, flexible. After an entire summer I finally had code that works and I could share.

Last was to find an enclosure to meet the needs and look pimpin good to boot. A must for me. I love shit that looks great and works great. So I decided I would have to make my own case out of acrylic so in researched that and I learned I could pay for laser services or buy a laser and do my own laser cutting. I decided to do my own cutting, so I can control quality there as well.

The issue of 5v to 10v pwm was a discussion between myself and another RUI member in private and he solved it quickly and shared it with me in private, and I have left it that way. I chose to use the same approach as well. I know he understands and does not mind, in the spirit of DIY. The MOD for the cables will be included assmebled with the Controller as it makes it plug and play now. peace
Vegas

Update: I have tested the circuit MOD with the bipolar transistor and the 1k ohm resistor, along with a 9v battery. The cable works delivering both 5v and 10v pwm signals from one arduino pin. One signal, 10v dims the mean well driver, and the 5v signal turns the mean well driver on and off. The cable MOD creates two simultaneous signals 5v and 10v, from one arduino pin, meaning you get 8-5v and 8-19v pwm signals to turn the driver on and off and dimming as well. The controller drives both LDD drivers and mean well drivers at the same time on the same channel if necessary. I have tested this function and it works. A 9v/12v battery does the trick for power. No wall wort needed. great.