Nutrients For Noobs... Making It Through Your First Grow.

TheYokel

Well-Known Member
Maybe you've always wanted to grow your own weed...

Maybe you are fascinated with new breeds and strains and want to make your own...

Or maybe you are tired of getting ripped off for $350 a zip... Either way, you've decided to grow your own bud.

You've got your two 13w CFLs that you think are 300watts, 2 gallons of dirt you dug up from the backyard, and The Man be damned, you are planting some seeds. Your mom left you $20 for pizza, and you are on your way to the hydro shop... So you typed "growing weed" into your search bar, clicked on the first forum link that popped up, and came here to ask a question that has been answered 1,000 times in the last 48 hours.

So let me try to answer that question for you... What Nutrients Should You Use For Your First Grow?

First off, put the dirt back in the yard. You really don't want to use that. You could have the healthiest, most fertile soil on the planet, but put it back. Seriously. Batman himself could come lay a pile of golden guano in your flower bed and you think it's the most nutritious thing since Slim Jims... put it back.

Outside dirt contains fungus, mold, larvae, bugs, basically it contains the outdoors. And the point of you growing indoors... is to control you environment. So quit bringing the outdoors inside. If you can't stay out of the flower bed, plant some basil.

Go buy some Happy Frog. You are trying to keep this simple. It's your first grow. Quit trying to make a super soil, stop trying to dig up earthworms because you heard its healthy, just keep it simple. Buy a bag of Happy Frog, and use it straight out of the bag.

Now that you have your soil taken care of, let's look at your nutes.

You will need five... yes, five... bottles from the hydro store for your entire grow. Let's take a look at what those five bottles are...

nutes.jpg

You will need:

Botanicare PureBlendPro Bloom
Botanicare CalMag
Botanicare ph Up
Hi-Brix Molasses
ph Test Kit

I know, that's a hellaciously long list, huh?

And yes, I use liquid drops. And you can too. I ph my water between 6.2-7.0 and drop it in. Your plant needs a range of ph's to most effectively absorb different nutrients, so quit trying to get your ph perfect. And for the love of whatever entity you believe in, stop adding 10ml of ph up, overshooting, adding 5ml of down, going back up, etc... that is terrible for your plant. And it adds ppm's to your mix. What are ppm's? Don't worry about it, this is your first grow.

That means when you are ph'ing your water, add your ph Up 1ml at a time and ph it with every 1ml you add for the first couple of times you mix it up. Don't overshoot it. Write down how many ml it took to get to the right ph, and remember it.

And use RO or Distilled water. You are keeping it simple, start with pure water.

And I can already hear it... "But Yokel, you don't have any Grow formula!!"

For a grow like this? No, I don't. And you won't need it either. Why? Because you bought the Happy Frog we talked about earlier and it already has enough Nitrogen in it to last you until you flower.

"But Yokel, what happens if my plant is getting yellow leaves on the bottom??"

Transplant it into a pot that's the proper size. If your plant is running out of N before you flower it in Happy Frog, it's because you don't have enough fresh soil for the roots to work into and find. This is your first grow, you shouldn't be trying to grow Christmas trees.

So you have your six seeds ready to sprout. Why six seeds? Because this is your first grow and you are following directions.

One or two might not germinate, one or two might be a male, and let's face it... this is your first grow. You are probably going to screw the pooch on one or two. Start with six.

Rule #1 For The Simple Grow- Give your plants enough Happy Frog, and you won't have to worry about feeding your vegging plant.

What do you use to water during your veg?

3ml of CalMag... and 2 teaspoons of Hi-Brix molasses. That's it... ph it to 6.2-7.0 and let it rip. Use this every watering, and use this every time in flower when you use your "nute-less" water. More on that later.

So that takes us to when you flip your two 13w CFLs to 12/12... your plant has three leaves on it, and you are ready to grow a pound...

Stop.

Let it grow at least four sets of real leaves (you know, the ones you draw on your math book during detention?) before you try to flower it. You can let it grow a little larger, but don't flower it too early. Why? Because this is your first grow and you are following instructions.

So now your plants are at least 6" tall, have a few sets of leaves on them, and you are going into 12/12. Awesome! Now is when the fun starts to really happen. :)

Your nutrient schedule is very easy in flowering. You will be giving them water with nutrients every other time you water. When you aren't giving them nutes, you will be giving them your "nute-less" water of 3ml CalMag and 2 teaspoons of molasses. Why every other watering? Because this is your first grow and you should know why by now...

All of these measurements are per gallon. That is 3.8l for the non-'Muricans.

Week 1 + 2 of 12/12:
5ml of Bloom, 3ml of CalMag, 2 teaspoons of molasses. Ph and feed.

Week 2 - 4 of 12/12:
10ml of Bloom, 3ml of CalMag, 1 tablespoon of molasses. Ph and feed.

Week 4 - 7 of 12/12:
15ml of Bloom, 3ml of CalMag, 1 tablespoon of molasses. Ph and feed.

Week 8 of 12/12:
5ml of Bloom, 3ml of CalMag, 1 tablespoon of molasses. Ph and feed.

Week 9 - Finish:
3ml CalMag, and 2 teaspoons of molasses. Ph and feed.

Why are we cutting back at Week 8? Because you are growing an Indica strain, and you don't know if it will finish early. This will ensure you have time to flush the last week in case they finish in 9 weeks instead of 10. Why are you growing an Indica? Because this is your first grow and you are following directions.

So your buds are big and frosty. When do you harvest? Look at your trichomes. This image has been posted for years, and it's still a great reminder:

trichs.jpg

When you start seeing amber, you know it's ok to harvest. You can go a little longer if you'd like, but we'll leave that argument for when you get there.

And that is literally it. If you follow that schedule, you will have a successful yield.

After your first run... then you can worry about upping your nutes, adding sweeteners, playing Bon Jovi and making love to your plants, whatever.

Keep it simple, get through your first grow, and you will have much more success in your later runs. Learn the basics before you form bad habits. Stay safe, and have fun.

And for the love of everything remember...

THE FIRST RULE OF GROW CLUB IS YOU DO NOT TALK ABOUT GROW CLUB!

And yes, you can expect good results. This isn't just a simple way for new growers, it's a successful way also.

harvest1.jpg
plant2.jpg
 
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crawlintbss

Well-Known Member
Dude great write up! I have all the bontanicare products so im set on this. Was great info to read as i just flipped to 12/12!

I will make sure to follow directions lol

For flower feeding do you recommend doing feeding with the bloom every other watering? and then always use calmag on every watering as you said. i notice botanicare says to add their stuff every watering.
 

TheYokel

Well-Known Member
If it's your first grow, or your first run with the strain, I would say go every other for feeding. It's easy to tell if your plants need more, but it's hard to correct something if you go overboard.

After you see how the plants react to the first run, you have a baseline for what they can take. Or if you have 6 plants, feed 5 safely, and pump one up with nutes every feeding and see how the strain reacts.

And yes, CalMag every watering.
 

Dankfactory

Well-Known Member
Hmmm.. Some accurate info in here, and some not so accurate. First, you absolutely do not need to run RO in dirt. If you have hard water tap, 9 times out of 10 your plants will perform amazingly. I keep saltwater reef tanks and am very savvy with my tap content before I run it through my 4 stage RO/DI unit for the reeftanks. I know and chart the monthly Chloramine content, the carbonate hardness, ammonia PPMs and CO2 levels of my municipal tap.( by the way almost every grower I've met doesn't know the first thing about RODI and end up running high ppms out of their output without even realizing it. But that's for another discussion entirely)
For my garden on the other hand: straight out of the tap. Hardwater tap is loaded with Ca Mg. They love it! A tap inline with a water softener is a different story.
Happy Frog: agreed. It's the best dirt I've ever personally used.
You do not need 5 nutrients. Period. Keep it Simple.
Find a solid organic liquid line with a good element ratio, forget what the bottle says about dosing and simply "listen by observing" what the plant requires.
 

TheYokel

Well-Known Member
Hmmm.. Some accurate info in here, and some not so accurate. First, you absolutely do not need to run RO in dirt. If you have hard water tap, 9 times out of 10 your plants will perform amazingly. I keep saltwater reef tanks and am very savvy with my tap content before I run it through my 4 stage RO/DI unit for the reeftanks. I know and chart the monthly Chloramine content, the carbonate hardness, ammonia PPMs and CO2 levels of my municipal tap.( by the way almost every grower I've met doesn't know the first thing about RODI and end up running high ppms out of their output without even realizing it. But that's for another discussion entirely)
For my garden on the other hand: straight out of the tap. Hardwater tap is loaded with Ca Mg. They love it! A tap inline with a water softener is a different story.
Happy Frog: agreed. It's the best dirt I've ever personally used.
You do not need 5 nutrients. Period. Keep it Simple.
Find a solid organic liquid line with a good element ratio, forget what the bottle says about dosing and simply "listen by observing" what the plant requires.
I only say to use RO water because if you ever have a problem, you know what you started with.

And I didn't say you need 5 nutrients. Only nutrients I have listed are Botanicare PBP (which as you suggested, is a solid mostly-organic liquid line) and CalMag. Other than that I only said you should grab some Hi-Brix molasses, ph up, and test drops.

It really doesn't stay much simpler.
 

Dankfactory

Well-Known Member
I only say to use RO water because if you ever have a problem, you know what you started with.

And I didn't say you need 5 nutrients. Only nutrients I have listed are Botanicare PBP (which as you suggested, is a solid mostly-organic liquid line) and CalMag. Other than that I only said you should grab some Hi-Brix molasses, ph up, and test drops.

It really doesn't stay much simpler.
Fair enough. I should've taken a closer look. I saw " you need 5 bottles" and I cringed.

But just a couple more critiques dude. If you're going to lay out a plan for a new grower, and your goal is to" keep it simple," there simply isn't a benefit to running RO in dirt. You can literally eliminate the CalMag addition entirely if you simply use hard water tap. Also I personally disagree with nutrient plans with scheduled mL/L feedings. Your concentration depends on the strain.For example: My green crack cut requires literally 3X the feedings than my other strains.
I think a better goal is to simply look at the leaves and feed accordingly. This is only accomplished by getting to know your strain and your nutrient line.
But overall a good write up, and I think it's beneficial to steer people toward the Frog. I've personally tried maybe 6-8 different soils over the years including the higher priced FFOF, and none have compared to Happy Frog
 

TheYokel

Well-Known Member
Fair enough. I should've taken a closer look. I saw " you need 5 bottles" and I cringed.

But just a couple more critiques dude. If you're going to lay out a plan for a new grower, and your goal is to" keep it simple," there simply isn't a benefit to running RO in dirt. You can literally eliminate the CalMag addition entirely if you simply use hard water tap. Also I personally disagree with nutrient plans with scheduled mL/L feedings. Your concentration depends on the strain.For example: My green crack cut requires literally 3X the feedings than my other strains.
I think a better goal is to simply look at the leaves and feed accordingly. This is only accomplished by getting to know your strain and your nutrient line.
But overall a good write up, and I think it's beneficial to steer people toward the Frog. I've personally tried maybe 6-8 different soils over the years including the higher priced FFOF, and none have compared to Happy Frog
I agree with most everything in your post. Even about my ml/G feedings. They are light on the nutrients for one reason: It's easy to feed them a little more, it's impossible to "un-feed" a plant.

To be honest when I wrote it, I decided to put in the off-on nutrient schedule just because as I said in the post, it's so much easier to tell when you are underfeeding a plant and have to add a little more, as opposed to overdoing it.

I basically just wanted to give a plan that will produce a plant for the first-time grower. As I said, after the first run they can see how much their plants feed and where they might want to improve. Making it through the first grow is the hardest hurdle.

Thanks for the advice and I will likely do another write-up with a more in-depth nutrient explanation. This was meant, literally, for someone that has never grown a plant or popped a bean.

And yes, Happy Frog is the greatest thing since tits. Thanks for the kind words :)
 

TheYokel

Well-Known Member
It's too late for me to edit this, but I wish I would have put this very simple info in the post when I was writing it.

For anyone wondering a ghetto way to measure out your milliliters without an eye-dropper or syringe...

1/4 teaspoon is about 1.25 milliliters.

1 tablespoon is 5 milliliters.

If you want to add 3ml, just add three not-quite-full 1/4 teaspoons of nutrients.

I am assuming most people have access to a cheap ass set of measuring spoons. If not, go to the dollar store. Or do what I do and buy 5 of those cheap plastic eyedroppers every time you go to the hydro store. I get them for like a dime a piece, or even free sometimes. Which brings me to my next point...

Get to know your shop and your shop owner. I can't emphasize how important that can be. Not only can you land some good discounts and free samples, but if there is something they don't have in stock you want, they might special order it for you. There are so many good reasons to have a good relationship with your store owner, I shouldn't have to name them all.

And if at all possible, shop local. Not only can you use cash, which means no paper trail... but you are supporting a local business. If possible, ALWAYS support your local businesses. And I don't mean Wal-Mart. Even if you are paying an extra $1 per jug of Botanicare, it's worth it. Eventually you will start getting a discount (even if it's just no tax, 10%, etc), and you are keeping a business alive.

I can't tell you how many emergency runs I have had to make to my local grow shop. I will happily pay a fraction more, just to make sure my local shop is available to me. If you need some emergency neem oil or BT spray and Home Depot doesn't have any... you really don't have 4 days to wait for shipping from Amazon.

Long story short, shop local. You will be happy you did.
 
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jinxjj

Member
For accurate measurements just go to CVS/Wallgreens/Rite Aide and buy some syringes from the pharmacy. They should have 3ml, 5ml, 10ml syringes in stock without the needle, if not they can order some for you and have them in a day or two. They are dirt cheap as well, probably like 10-20cents a piece. Can always get ones with needle and chuck the needle unless you have shitty state laws about buying syringes with needles.
 

GibbsIt89

Well-Known Member
Ok I stopped reading half way through the rest of these posts because people are seriously really starting to piss me off on this website. Great thread here there is no reason to pick at it.

Example: saying something like "you do not need to run R/O or distilled water in soil" no shit, does a newbie really need to hear all the blah blah blah bullshit no they dont cuz they are going to get confused. He said distilled or R/O because it keeps things simple for them to understand. You can use tap water sure.. then now we have to explain a bunch of bullshit about tap water. SO annoyed.. Great thread.. anyone whos going to pick at it should just stfu... there is nothing in his thread that is WRONG, is his method the ONLY way or the ONLY info out there, fuck no of course not.

Another example from another thread "dont let anyone tell you that you need ph up or down, just add some lime to your soil"... regardless if that does properly balance your ph.. what happends if you put too much lime in the soil as a newbie probably would, or not enough? Then throw out the soil and start over? no you add a tad of ph up to every watering now to save yourself some money.. ugh. PLEASE OH PLEASE will the oldtimers please take back this site with some simplicity. I was on this website like a mad man 2 years ago, made lots of friends got some great advice and info, no one gave me shit when I was wrong or questionable about something. NOW?? Jesus.. your all a bunch of dicks lol. I havent had a personal issue with anyone on here, its what I see and read.. its rediculous...

Sorry, rant over
 

TheYokel

Well-Known Member
PLEASE OH PLEASE will the oldtimers please take back this site with some simplicity. I was on this website like a mad man 2 years ago, made lots of friends got some great advice and info, no one gave me shit when I was wrong or questionable about something. NOW?? Jesus.. your all a bunch of dicks lol. I havent had a personal issue with anyone on here, its what I see and read.. its rediculous...

Sorry, rant over
Eh, it was even like that back on OG when I was on there. There's always a few.

I've only been on this site for 2 weeks now... but you'd be surprised how long my ignore list is, lol.

Edit: Thank you for you kind words.
 

GrowerGoneWild

Well-Known Member
Example: saying something like "you do not need to run R/O or distilled water in soil" no shit, does a newbie really need to hear all the blah blah blah bullshit no they dont cuz they are going to get confused. He said distilled or R/O because it keeps things simple for them to understand.
Meh.. no reason to dumb it down. The concept of water hardness and quality should be explained. The post starts off as if some "kid" is growing cannabis for the first time, almost if the OP is talking down to you. I work with alot of new growers that are older just trying to grow for their own medical problems.

But its a fairly good guide to use botanicare..
 

TheYokel

Well-Known Member
The post starts off as if some "kid" is growing cannabis for the first time, almost if the OP is talking down to you. I work with alot of new growers that are older just trying to grow for their own medical problems.
Have you noticed the average age/mentality level of a lot of the people asking the same questions every time? This is the internet...
 
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