Nutrient deficiency close to finish

Northern Boxer

Northern Boxer

Active Member
Growitpondifarm said:
Honestly they don’t look that bad, with that being said, what sized containers are these in/how big are they ? Tough to tell from the overhead shot. I’ve been using 7 gallon pots with my soil mix and if I get a plant that blows up during the first couple weeks of bloom I see earlier fading then desired. I think container size is very important when using an organic soil approach. Can’t grow bushes in 3 gallon containers like you can using synthetics.
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This will give you a better idea. 7.5 gallon pots with about 6 gallon of soil. Watering every 4 days. This pic was at 4 weeks so I really didn't notice a lot of issues until 2 weeks ago.
 

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Northern Boxer

Northern Boxer

Active Member
ShLUbY said:
I'd be letting them ride as long as possible. Definitely don't chop it down now. Again I'll stress, with all those inputs in your recipe, there's no way you have a deficiency in your soil, it's lockout from all the phos. Just plan on chopping maybe a week early. Watch the trichs with a scope. just let her consume every last bit of what's in the leaves. FWIW... she is beautiful :)
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Yeah, pistils are maybe 50% now but the trichs are still clear and extended.
 
Northern Boxer

Northern Boxer

Active Member
Wetdog said:
It's the "No till revisited" thread up in the stickies. No one does spikes or layering as it's simply not needed. The Rev just doesn't figure a lot with this style of mix/growing. I also use a variation on Coots mix much like ShLUbY's but with some different materials. The guiding principals behind both are the same, we both adapted a good basic recipe to fit our particular environments and growing style. One size (usually), doesn't fit all.

Check out at least the first 15 or so pages of the thread for most of the information you need. The whole 700+ pages can be a bit much, but a wealth of information. This is also the 2nd thread bc the first one got so long, but is also in the stickies.

Wet
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Will do, thanks man.
 
ShLUbY

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
Northern Boxer said:
This will give you a better idea. 7.5 gallon pots with about 6 gallon of soil. Watering every 4 days. This pic was at 4 weeks so I really didn't notice a lot of issues until 2 weeks ago.
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every 4 days? that seems like way too little water for that mature of a plant. The amount you water every 4th day, you should be splitting that up into every 2 days. consistent moisture is key with organics.
 
B

blazeottawa

Member
Yup Canadians are coming out of the grow closets and growing in front of the living room windows for eveyone to see and admire. Must be shitty living in backword, prohibitionist country. I may laugh at you but I also feel sorry for you. First vote with your ballots and if that doesn't work vote with bullets. Getterdone son.
 
Northern Boxer

Northern Boxer

Active Member
ShLUbY said:
every 4 days? that seems like way too little water for that mature of a plant. The amount you water every 4th day, you should be splitting that up into every 2 days. consistent moisture is key with organics.
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I'm working hard to change my ways ShLUbY. Goes against everything I have done previously with my indoor chem grows though I was also using 3 gallon pots. I'm also leaning towards the smart pots. I have already ordered 20 gallon for my outdoor grow this year and thinking 7.5 for my next indoor.
 
ShLUbY

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
Northern Boxer said:
I'm working hard to change my ways ShLUbY. Goes against everything I have done previously with my indoor chem grows though I was also using 3 gallon pots. I'm also leaning towards the smart pots. I have already ordered 20 gallon for my outdoor grow this year and thinking 7.5 for my next indoor.
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haha I hear you man. old habits die hard. no more wet/dry! smart pots are nice but you really gotta watch the watering in them. they go dry quickly. you'll go through twice as much water.
 
Northern Boxer

Northern Boxer

Active Member
ShLUbY said:
every 4 days? that seems like way too little water for that mature of a plant. The amount you water every 4th day, you should be splitting that up into every 2 days. consistent moisture is key with organics.[/QUOTE
Base:
  • 1/3 Compost
  • 1/3 Sphagnum Peat Moss
  • 1/3 Aeration (Such as pumice stone, rice hulls, lava rock
Additional Inputs:
Minerals

Both you and Wetdog have similar thoughts when it comes to a streamlined soil like the Coot Mix above so I see where you're coming when you feel I don't have a lack of amendments. With not a mention of high N components like blood meal and P additives like blood and fish meal? How long did you cook your initial mix for before the first grow?
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ShLUbY

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
I compost all my mixes for about 4 weeks before using them. Never had a problem with them at that time interval. I do use fishbone meal, but it's not high N like the fish meal is. I'm gonna start using insect frass in my mixes soon too. I'm gonna be working on some new recipes this year in general. Really gonna get down to business and weight out each ingredient and formulate the % weight for the entire blend. I'd like to just make a blend myself that I can mix all together dry and then just scoop like 3c per cu.ft. of that when amending. Gonna require a little research though.
 
Northern Boxer

Northern Boxer

Active Member
Wetdog said:
It's the "No till revisited" thread up in the stickies. No one does spikes or layering as it's simply not needed. The Rev just doesn't figure a lot with this style of mix/growing. I also use a variation on Coots mix much like ShLUbY's but with some different materials. The guiding principals behind both are the same, we both adapted a good basic recipe to fit our particular environments and growing style. One size (usually), doesn't fit all.

Check out at least the first 15 or so pages of the thread for most of the information you need. The whole 700+ pages can be a bit much, but a wealth of information. This is also the 2nd thread bc the first one got so long, but is also in the stickies.

Wet
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Awsome thread......thanks Wet
 
Northern Boxer

Northern Boxer

Active Member
ShLUbY said:
I compost all my mixes for about 4 weeks before using them. Never had a problem with them at that time interval. I do use fishbone meal, but it's not high N like the fish meal is. I'm gonna start using insect frass in my mixes soon too. I'm gonna be working on some new recipes this year in general. Really gonna get down to business and weight out each ingredient and formulate the % weight for the entire blend. I'd like to just make a blend myself that I can mix all together dry and then just scoop like 3c per cu.ft. of that when amending. Gonna require a little research though.
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Hey ShLUbY, quick question for you. Referencing the MOFO link....

Planting a cover crop at the beginning of each cycle is always a good idea as well as the added roots throughout the topsoil also aerates and harbors soil life itself. Once and if the cover crop becomes established it then likely dies back under a full canopy (no light) and through it's death becomes mulch and is completely incorporated into the soil. A decaying mulch layer is key - a living mulch/cover crop comes second.

I'm finding it difficult to acquire any suitable mulch such as shredded bark locally but can source Buckwheat, Barley, Alfalfa, Clover, Lentil & Fenugreek seeding mix for cover crop. What is working best for you? I'm in the process of building a Coots mix and will have it well cooked by the time I need it. I went with 10 gallon fabric pots.

BTW, since I have increased my RO watering frequency and reduced volume, my girls have produced some frosty nugs and think I can let them go another 10 days or so. Thanks for the input.
 
G

Growitpondifarm

Well-Known Member
I use fallen leaves and and straw to mulch my containers. The leaves work great, and slowly breakdown and add organic matter. Also the worms in my container seem to love them, I wouldn’t buy anything to use as a mulch, no way you can’t find anything in your yard or local forest that won’t work great and is free.
 
Northern Boxer

Northern Boxer

Active Member
Growitpondifarm said:
I use fallen leaves and and straw to mulch my containers. The leaves work great, and slowly breakdown and add organic matter. Also the worms in my container seem to love them, I wouldn’t buy anything to use as a mulch, no way you can’t find anything in your yard or local forest that won’t work great and is free.
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Thanks, barley straw is an option which is available through my local supplier though fallen leaves is a bit more challenging with the foot of snow we have on the ground right now.
 
Northern Boxer

Northern Boxer

Active Member
ShLUbY said:
exactly. more soil is always better than less when it comes to organic growing. then you just have to watch the watering for the first couple weeks, but it will pay off in the end. I'm going back to 10gal fabrics as soon as I get a chance.
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Hey ShLUbY, hope all is good. I just want to follow back up on your post in respect to watering. My second organic grow is using a variation of the Coots mix in 10 gallon fabrics. I prepped the soil in advance, watered well and mycoed the root hole before transfering my 3 week old seedlings from 1 gallon pots. I have not top dressed or fed and only watered with straight RO. You noted "watching the watering in the first few weeks" was the concern too much or too little water? The girls have been in the 10 g's for 3 days now and I'm seeing little signs of transpiration. Humidity is 48-50% lights on and 58- 70% lights off. Temps are 25.5 c at the plants and 20.5 c at the root zone. Here is a pic at 24 days from seed.20190305_202801.jpg
 
ShLUbY

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
Northern Boxer said:
Hey ShLUbY, hope all is good. I just want to follow back up on your post in respect to watering. My second organic grow is using a variation of the Coots mix in 10 gallon fabrics. I prepped the soil in advance, watered well and mycoed the root hole before transfering my 3 week old seedlings from 1 gallon pots. I have not top dressed or fed and only watered with straight RO. You noted "watching the watering in the first few weeks" was the concern too much or too little water? The girls have been in the 10 g's for 3 days now and I'm seeing little signs of transpiration. Humidity is 48-50% lights on and 58- 70% lights off. Temps are 25.5 c at the plants and 20.5 c at the root zone. Here is a pic at 24 days from seed.View attachment 4295024
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All is well my dude, thank you; same to you. well think about it... you have a small root system in a large pot and a small canopy... not gonna see a lot of transpiration :) They look great to me! It's going to annoy you but I'm going to say... watch for too much and too little! You don't want your soil to get too dry and go hydrophobic... so you have to water to prevent that. However, you don't want to push all the air away from the roots with too much water. So you find that balance, where you're saturating the soil but not drowning the plant... and then spacing watering out so that you only water when necessary, no specific water schedule (I hate water schedules b/c its all relative to the size of the plant... no one schedule works indefinitely lol). You're going to mulch that soil yes? It will help prevent evaporation and crusting of the upper surface. Or maybe living mulch? Clean set up! I see you have the vivosun tent? I recently bought one to dry in.
 
Northern Boxer

Northern Boxer

Active Member
ShLUbY said:
All is well my dude, thank you; same to you. well think about it... you have a small root system in a large pot and a small canopy... not gonna see a lot of transpiration :) They look great to me! It's going to annoy you but I'm going to say... watch for too much and too little! You don't want your soil to get too dry and go hydrophobic... so you have to water to prevent that. However, you don't want to push all the air away from the roots with too much water. So you find that balance, where you're saturating the soil but not drowning the plant... and then spacing watering out so that you only water when necessary, no specific water schedule (I hate water schedules b/c its all relative to the size of the plant... no one schedule works indefinitely lol). You're going to mulch that soil yes? It will help prevent evaporation and crusting of the upper surface. Or maybe living mulch? Clean set up! I see you have the vivosun tent? I recently bought one to dry in.
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Yes, I can see a gradual increase in the watering needs and anticipate this but the reason I was asking was I have populated the top soil surface with a 6 seed cover crop at time of transplanting and trying to keep the surface continually moist until I get them established. My preference would have been to use a shredded bark mulch but I have not been able to find any source locally or online. The way I see the cover crop when green will benefit the microbes and once it dies back will feed the fungi. What are you using and what are other options I can use? Thanks
 
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