Mycorrhiza Fungi...why you should get to know them...

Does any body know how much time last mycro life in soil...And how often I must add more microbes to my soil..
From what I have read about organic is that beneficial life come to die in some point...I dont know why this is happening so can any one explaien why life come to die at some point and we dont put salts and not organic ammendmants and fertilazer at soil...
So what kill mzcrorazhie and other bacteria and fungi...life clock or some bad microbes....

pollen205 said:

Does any body know how much time last mycro life in soil...And how often I must add more microbes to my soil..
From what I have read about organic is that beneficial life come to die in some point...I dont know why this is happening so can any one explaien why life come to die at some point and we dont put salts and not organic ammendmants and fertilazer at soil...
So what kill mzcrorazhie and other bacteria and fungi...life clock or some bad microbes....

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Question 1
Forever in the right conditions, how old is the old growth forest, well this long at least right?

Question 2
Only way to know if you need to add micros is microscoping you soil samples and or easier if you ask me, CO2 Burst rate test. This is not week 1 week 2 bullshit.

Question 3.
Aerobic microbes need Oxygen, rates over 6ppm of DO2 this is dissolved oxygen, lower rates of DO2 will kill off Mycos and Aerobic bacteria. Instead you will get Anaerobic bacteria, and this wont be good for your plant which wants to breathe O2 in and CO2 out.
Some of your bennies can flip flop between Aerobic and Anaerobic, so what once helped will now decay.
The hotter the water, the less oxygen it can carry. At 21c water holds 7ppms DO2 and no you cant add more with an air pump unless the temp changes. One more thing to save money on
Microbes are 70% water, and they need soil moisture rates between 40-60% to function well. Either side of this and forget it, you are losing life.
Finally these organisms are tiny and work fast and hard and so die fast and hard.
There are a few way to spot things going wrong but you need a microscope and a CO2 burst rate test.

I would take a look at Microbial Feedback Loops to understand better life cycles of soil biota

hope that helps

you help

so from now when I tap water I will take colder water not to cold but settings on cold

Do you know will x1000 hd usb microscope or some x1000 labaratory micrsoscope will see the soil life or how many x I need

thank you

pollen205 said:

you help

so from now when I tap water I will take colder water not to cold but settings on cold

Do you know will x1000 hd usb microscope or some x1000 labaratory micrsoscope will see the soil life or how many x I need

thank you

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the key is balance. So get a temp gauge so you can measure root zone temps. Try to get an average around 18-21C but anyway keep it under 25C.
Plants will have a special growth marker point where consecutive days over 25C means all manner of weirdness. EG Hermies and or Bolting just two examples

I have a root temp between the rate above and a canopy average below 25C. This is an overall average not set. it does get much higher, when it does i need to work harder to lower the overall to keep my averages in check.

yes a x400 compound scope is enough. I use a 40-2500 see here https://www.microscopenet.com/omax-40x2500x-builtin-30mp-digital-camera-compound-binocular-microscope-vinyl-carrying-case-p-11101.html


and you are welcome brother

I’ve been a loyal reader of this site for a few years now, and I’ve gathered shit tons of valuable info from it. I started with DWC, after a few grows I moved to coco and now I’m diving into organic SS. I’m getting my poop in a group, no pun intended, and came across Jobes compost starter 4-4-2 with micros. See attachment for contents. Would this be a good amendment choice?

There is a Tester now a days to estimate how much micro life is in your soil. It’s called the MicroBiometer. I heard Jeff Lowenfells recommend it in one of his speeches.

Here is the speech I was talking about. It fits right in this forum perfectly. From what I have heard rhizophagus intraradices is the only mycorrhizae known to benefit cannabis. I am no expert by any means. If I remember right Jeff tells us what else it might be called when we go to buy it in this video. I also have Jeff’s third book on the way Teaming with Fungi. Hope you enjoy. P.S. sorry if this is repeated info I haven’t read this whole forum yet.

jblumpkin said:

Any fungus found not directly growing on roots is highly likely to be a saprophytic, non-mycorrhyzal organism. Not that that's a bad thing, saprophytic fungi are the main decomposers of organic matter and are important in nutrient cycling although it's not mycorrhizal fungi.

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Thx

AkFrost said:

There is a Tester now a days to estimate how much micro life is in your soil. It’s called the MicroBiometer. I heard Jeff Lowenfells recommend it in one of his speeches.

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I dont know what this is, but you can certainly test for CO2 burst rates. I would be careful buying more bloody gadgets. It is the breathing events we can monitor, no need for a device.

Forget Jeff, its Rick Haney and Will brinton that brought this to the table. Solvita Soil CO2-Burst Test. The test reveals active carbon in soil following a controlled drying and rewetting cycle. The test measures from 0 to 120 ppm CO2-C (24hr). Allows predicting N-mineralization and accurately estimating biomass.

I am not sure we can say anything definite about nature, eg only one VAM interacts with Cannabis. may be this is true of the cultivars he grows in the conditions he grows them? Is it true on a Landrace in Afghanistan, or Kerela, Thailand, Africa, Colombia?

Ecompost said:

I dont know what this is, but you can certainly test for CO2 burst rates. I would be careful buying more bloody gadgets. It is the breathing events we can monitor, no need for a device.

Forget Jeff, its Rick Haney and Will brinton that brought this to the table. Solvita Soil CO2-Burst Test. The test reveals active carbon in soil following a controlled drying and rewetting cycle. The test measures from 0 to 120 ppm CO2-C (24hr). Allows predicting N-mineralization and accurately estimating biomass.

I am not sure we can say anything definite about nature, eg only one VAM interacts with Cannabis. may be this is true of the cultivars he grows in the conditions he grows them? Is it true on a Landrace in Afghanistan, or Kerela, Thailand, Africa, Colombia?

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agreed. there is so much diversity in nature, and we simply don't know the synergistic relationships that occur with cannabis and mycorrhizal fungi in the presence of bacteria or other fungi that are not in our indoor cultivation practices. it's very possible that we can't create the conditions that are favorable for other mycorrhizal fungi to infect the roots of this plant due to lack of diversity in the soil. with so much lack of research, we can not say anything is definitive at that point

Can you give me some advice how can I Grow mycellium on top of my soil...
Last Grow I top dress mykos from xtreme on top of my soil and then mulch with straw...
And that give me some mycellium but only 20% of my top soil...
This Grow I want whole top soil to be with mycelium
I heard about gro kashi but I can’t GET IT in EUROPE so Like to hear some Experience grower

pollen205 said:

Can you give me some advice how can I Grow mycellium on top of my soil...
Last Grow I top dress mykos from xtreme on top of my soil and then mulch with straw...
And that give me some mycellium but only 20% of my top soil...
This Grow I want whole top soil to be with mycelium
I heard about gro kashi but I can’t GET IT in EUROPE so Like to hear some Experience grower

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just because you can't see it doesn't mean it isnt there. stop thinking about what YOU want and think about what the SOIL wants. I'd say you're already doing what you can.

pollen205 said:

Can you give me some advice how can I Grow mycellium on top of my soil...
Last Grow I top dress mykos from xtreme on top of my soil and then mulch with straw...
And that give me some mycellium but only 20% of my top soil...
This Grow I want whole top soil to be with mycelium
I heard about gro kashi but I can’t GET IT in EUROPE so Like to hear some Experience grower

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make it. Grokashi is a proprietary name and means nothing. Bokashi instructions are everywhere online I make Bokashi in Europe from non medicated cow shit, I use it at 50g per 1m3.
I also make Silicic acid based products which are awesome for freeing trapped P, also helping to reduce the numbers of bondable options for P2O5 via the formation of silicates, thereby making many other essential elements more available to our plants too, EG Ca, Mg, Cu, Mn and so on. Again you can make this with diatomaceous earth, but this is produced by Mycos, the Si I mean.

Why do you want Mycos in your top layers, what is the benefit do you think?

I might direct you to understanding the differences between decomposing and humifying microbes, you might make more sense to yourself once you know this.

First time I've used endomycorrhizae in my grow, not even in soil but in perlite+hydroton combination. And I'm loving the result.

I'm not organic yet (future plan is no-till) and still using liquid fertilizer but it cut my fertilizer down to 1/16 (almost nothing) from full strength. Those fungi are pretty darn efficient in passing the nutrient to the plant.

2 weeks root growth from solo cup to 1 gallon container (huge root hairs)



2 weeks old Mycorrhizae root infection



I've read that it takes 4 months for endomycorrhizae to fully colonize and to spread out their hypae but I'm impressed with its performance in even just 2 weeks.

My future plan is to pre-culture my growing medium with endomycos and grow some grass in it and let it sit for 4 months or more before using it for my grow. Would be an interesting project.

Xs121 said:

I've read that it takes 4 months for endomycorrhizae to fully colonize and to spread out their hypae but I'm impressed with its performance in even just 2 weeks.

My future plan is to pre-culture my growing medium with endomycos and grow some grass in it and let it sit for 4 months or more before using it for my grow. Would be an interesting project.

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Like your plan. Have you got a certain species of Myco planned for use or one of the broader spectrum products?

I used EcoMyc"Cannabis" Mycorrhizae though they don't list what or how many species is in their product, I suspect that this product is just a renamed of their original product
EcoMyc "Nature" Mycorrhizae Soil Amendment - OMRI-Listed
which according to OMRi, it contained 4 species of Glomus

I use Alive Soil Activator, before I put down my seedlings. It's only $10 for a 1Lb bag. Find it at Gardensalive.com

Description: Biodiversity is key to creating a healthy root zone environment for plants of all kinds, and this unique soil activator helps you create such an environment. In areas of your garden where soil is stressed, depleted, or underperforming, Alive!™ Soil Activator helps repair and prepare soil for planting. By combining beneficial bacteria and fungi necessary for plant growth, this mix will help jump-start poor soil for your garden and container plantings, while microbes help plants absorb and convert nutrients in the soil. Works perfectly for preparing soil for vegetables, fruits, countless ornamentals, shrubs, and trees. Use 1 lb per 300 sq ft, or 1 teaspoon in a 4-6" flower pot.

buffalosoulja said:

I currently use molasses in my tea, will adding the mychorrzae not help then.

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Molasses is a perfect food source for beneficial bacteria and fungus; good job.

thelastpirate said:

Thanx for bumping this thread. There must be something wrong with the search function, 'cuz when I use it, I get alot of worthless, unrelated shit. I have been interested in mycorrhizae for a couple of months now, but could find very little here on RIU.
Has anyone ever tried BioTone starter Plus? I have already mixed the soil for this next grow, so it's probably a moot point, but I'm interested in any first hand knowledge opinions as to it's efficacy.
My reason for going with the BioTone over the other product with mycorrhizae only was the fact that it contained the other trace minerals (purportedly organic) as well.
I FINALLY found a local source for bat guano and worm castings!!!! Joy!!! It's kinda funny when you start asking Q's about the organic ferts like guano, worm castings, kelp etc. I'm pretty sure that they know whats up. Not a whole lot of people (veggie growers) who go to this nursery know much about mycorrhizae or guano. Careful how much you let slip. I got a "knowing look" from the sales clerk. But it's all good, I'm pretty sure she smokes too!

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Coastal folks here have been using kelp in veggie garden for couple hundred years. We're not allowed to gather it here now . Gauno is pretty new here but the back-to-the-land farmers co-ops have been pushing it for a few years. Same with worm castings ( both are expensive here). There's a guy about hour from here with a worm farm, i've been considering starting to farm them for my own gardens. Most of the garden centres here hire school kids who usually know nothing about the products they sell. All in all, after this long rambling speech , i wouldnt worry what garden centre people thought. They just wanna sell you stuff.

Don’t let the soil temp get to high. Use cover crop seed or white clovers seeds. Never let medium dry out