veggiegardener
Well-Known Member
Cold, dreary days with a week of rain ahead.
I hate being trapped, indoors.
I hate being trapped, indoors.
My Outdoor Garden-2010
- Thread starter veggiegardener
- Start date
veggiegardener
Well-Known Member
Yeah, Tule Fog. I grew up in it, out in the Delta. I learned to drive on those levee roads.
I think that area is where fog was invented.
I think that area is where fog was invented.
veggiegardener
Well-Known Member
About a decade ago I worked in Visalia one winter building a freeway. I gotta admit, I've never seen thicker fog. I had to listen for the equipment(50 ton Tonka Toys) because they were invisible, fifty feet away.
BlackUp
Member
Hey veggie I have a question, me and my
grow buddy are planting 20 germinated seeds of snow white and kush tonight . We are using those little jiffy pots that you plant straight into the new pots. The ones that dissolve into the soil. We are going to grow them to about 8 inches tall and then make some slits in the sides and transplant them into larger pots.once transplanted we are going to water thoroughly to moisten the old jiffy pots and I'm thinking the roots Should have no issue at all growing through the soft mushy jiffy pots. What do you think? Any advice is welcome thanks!
grow buddy are planting 20 germinated seeds of snow white and kush tonight . We are using those little jiffy pots that you plant straight into the new pots. The ones that dissolve into the soil. We are going to grow them to about 8 inches tall and then make some slits in the sides and transplant them into larger pots.once transplanted we are going to water thoroughly to moisten the old jiffy pots and I'm thinking the roots Should have no issue at all growing through the soft mushy jiffy pots. What do you think? Any advice is welcome thanks!
veggiegardener
Well-Known Member
Have any roots penetrated the pot walls, yet?
If not, after the initial transplant, water only outside the Jiffy pot, forcing the plant to go find the water. I usually use scissors to slice the corners off the bottom inch of the Jiffy pots, if roots aren't visible.
Most times, roots are visible by the time I transplant.
How big are your pots? For eight inchers, you need at least a 3" x 3" pot. I like to transplant when the plant shows a vigorous two or three true leaf pairs.
In my experience the best results are achieved when transplanting to their final home as early as possible.
Why not pick a few plants to transplant now, and see how they compare with the others after a few weeks? You might find the results interesting.
If not, after the initial transplant, water only outside the Jiffy pot, forcing the plant to go find the water. I usually use scissors to slice the corners off the bottom inch of the Jiffy pots, if roots aren't visible.
Most times, roots are visible by the time I transplant.
How big are your pots? For eight inchers, you need at least a 3" x 3" pot. I like to transplant when the plant shows a vigorous two or three true leaf pairs.
In my experience the best results are achieved when transplanting to their final home as early as possible.
Why not pick a few plants to transplant now, and see how they compare with the others after a few weeks? You might find the results interesting.
veggiegardener
Well-Known Member
I also should mention that the plant should be set in the pot leaving only one inch between the soil and bottom pair of true leaves(serrated edges). The top edge of the pot should be below soil level. Tear off a strip around the top, if necessary. If exposed, the pot can wick water away from the roots.
BlackUp
Member
Well the seeds were just germinated and put into the soil, but I am going to make a bunch of slices down the sides when i transplant them. I actually had a little concern when I wnt to put them in there pots in the attic, it's slightly chilly up there probably about 55-65 right now. That should be fine under the fluoros for now I'm hoping, the fluoros stay supe close so they do let off some warmth. What do you think? I'm just afraid it might be a little cold =X
veggiegardener
Well-Known Member
Check these out.
http://www.shopzilla.com/super-sprouter-seedling-heat-mat/1762833110/compare
I have a one tray size and a four tray size for keeping my babies warm. The tub my seedlings are in is sitting on the larger mat, which keeps the babies at a happy 68 degrees.
http://www.shopzilla.com/super-sprouter-seedling-heat-mat/1762833110/compare
I have a one tray size and a four tray size for keeping my babies warm. The tub my seedlings are in is sitting on the larger mat, which keeps the babies at a happy 68 degrees.
veggiegardener
Well-Known Member
I missed your post regarding the Ark.
LOL
I could launch it in my back yard.
I've had good results with the warming mats over the last five years. They do what they claim, raising soil temps 10-20 degrees.
veggiegardener
Well-Known Member
we were getting wind gusts of around 60mph, during one downpour, yesterday. More rain today, and a break tomorrow according to TWC.
veggiegardener
Well-Known Member
Got around to taking a few photos. The greenhouses don't get much action in the winter. I could seal them up, and add lights, but don't really have the need.....yet.
Pictured are some Cabbage and broccoli seedlings I planted in the greenhouses. They'll finish in late Spring, about the time I'm ready to put my best girls in the ground.
Two avocado trees look festive, but the lights(not LED) emit enough heat to prevent frost damage. It works well on citrus, too.
In all honesty my partner nearly lost my E32 Trainwreck when he lost power during a cold snap.
Temps in his veg room dropped to 29 degrees. You can see the burns on the sun leaves of the Trainwreck and two cuts I'm trying to revive.
Due to that same cold snap, some of my seeds didn't make it. When this happens, I reseed but with extra seed(note that a few pots have several sprouts). I'll thin them to the two most vigorous seedlings in each pot when I transplant and remove any males that appear, a month or so, later(after harvesting the desirable pollen).
The picture of the Durban Poison seedling is to point out that the mutation rate in DP is the highest I've seen.
Last season's Durban Poisons were the most vigorous plants I've ever grown. They only produced a lot, but given room, I think either one might have produced five pounds or maybe much more.
The last two pix are of each plant on June 24th(I think). Both were harvested in early October.
Pictured are some Cabbage and broccoli seedlings I planted in the greenhouses. They'll finish in late Spring, about the time I'm ready to put my best girls in the ground.
Two avocado trees look festive, but the lights(not LED) emit enough heat to prevent frost damage. It works well on citrus, too.
In all honesty my partner nearly lost my E32 Trainwreck when he lost power during a cold snap.
Temps in his veg room dropped to 29 degrees. You can see the burns on the sun leaves of the Trainwreck and two cuts I'm trying to revive.
Due to that same cold snap, some of my seeds didn't make it. When this happens, I reseed but with extra seed(note that a few pots have several sprouts). I'll thin them to the two most vigorous seedlings in each pot when I transplant and remove any males that appear, a month or so, later(after harvesting the desirable pollen).
The picture of the Durban Poison seedling is to point out that the mutation rate in DP is the highest I've seen.
Last season's Durban Poisons were the most vigorous plants I've ever grown. They only produced a lot, but given room, I think either one might have produced five pounds or maybe much more.
The last two pix are of each plant on June 24th(I think). Both were harvested in early October.
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thatonetime
Member
when is a good time to plant in SE Georgia. I want to start indoor for 4 weeks
veggiegardener
Well-Known Member
You can go outside once your day length is about 13 hours(late April), as long as the plants were switched to 13/11 at about three weeks old. This way, when the plant goes outdoors, it won't experience a reduced day length, triggering flowering.
(Grown from seed, most strains become sexually mature at about six weeks, and will respond to a shortening day length and begin to flower. Another guideline is when the sixth true pair of leaves arrives. Many strains will begin blooming at that point, IF the day length is diminishing or the day is 12 hours or shorter.)
A friend took several plants outdoors last May(after I'd explained about photoperiods), from an 18/6 schedule into the outdoors which was at 14 hours of sunshine. The plants all began to bloom, and only reverted to veg, a few weeks later. This slows vegging but his outdoor girls still averaged over a Kg each, last fall.
OR
You can do what I do. Put them out in pots after your last frost date, and get a small Spring crop. In my area, I must harvest Spring buds by April 15th to avoid all the buds beginning to reveg, losing potency. Leave about 1/3 of the vegetation on these plants, leaving plenty of sites to reveg from.
Hope this helps!
(Grown from seed, most strains become sexually mature at about six weeks, and will respond to a shortening day length and begin to flower. Another guideline is when the sixth true pair of leaves arrives. Many strains will begin blooming at that point, IF the day length is diminishing or the day is 12 hours or shorter.)
A friend took several plants outdoors last May(after I'd explained about photoperiods), from an 18/6 schedule into the outdoors which was at 14 hours of sunshine. The plants all began to bloom, and only reverted to veg, a few weeks later. This slows vegging but his outdoor girls still averaged over a Kg each, last fall.
OR
You can do what I do. Put them out in pots after your last frost date, and get a small Spring crop. In my area, I must harvest Spring buds by April 15th to avoid all the buds beginning to reveg, losing potency. Leave about 1/3 of the vegetation on these plants, leaving plenty of sites to reveg from.
Hope this helps!
SACReDHeRB
Well-Known Member
Following along.