modular overkill led striplight build

Airwalker16 said:

I'm a total noob to t slot. What's the screws being threaded into? Is there a rail you inserted that runs the whole length with even spaced holes threaded for the holding screws?

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no problem, i printed me some rails i can put the M3 nuts in.
i slide them in the slot therefore all leds have their defined place and i dont need to wiggle with so many t-nuts.
also its electrically isolate the screw and press the strip to the t-nut bar to transfer some heat.

Airwalker16 said:

I'm a total noob to t slot. What's the screws being threaded into? Is there a rail you inserted that runs the whole length with even spaced holes threaded for the holding screws?

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that’s one of the first pictures google shows you when you look up "t slot". should be pretty much self explanatory, you did look that up first before asking your question, right?

sethimus said:

View attachment 4463610

that’s one of the first pictures google shows you when you look up "t slot". should be pretty much self explanatory, you did look that up first before asking your question, right?

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Nope because I could tell by looking at his picture that's not what he had. Once again sethimus, go fuck yourself, man. You always try to just be a condescending asshole every chance you get. Fuck off already.

judging by your choice of words it seems you once again did not use google before asking questions. sad

sethimus said:

judging by your choice of words it seems you once again did not use google before asking questions. sad

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You know as well as everyone here, your post was meant to convey that im an idiot who can't use Google to answer my own questions. He custom printed the rails and added nuts to the back before sliding it in to the slot so his strips are evenly spaced. If he wouldn't have shown me those pics, I'd never known what he did.

cobshopgrow said:

no problem, i printed me some rails i can put the M3 nuts in.
i slide them in the slot therefore all leds have their defined place and i dont need to wiggle with so many t-nuts.
also its electrically isolate the screw and press the strip to the t-nut bar to transfer some heat.

View attachment 4463549
View attachment 4463550

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Wow that's ingenious dude. So the nuts are press fit into the holes and then their slid in, blnut side down, into the slots?

Hey sethimus, basically i get you, often google is easier and quicker then asking in a forum.
while this here is may not the best example.

@Airwalker16 yes pretty much like you describe, i press them in from the back.
there is a pocket for the nut.
the side facing up have the 3mm hole for the screw.
its a quite simple construct, you would get it imediatly when you had it in hand.

cobshopgrow said:

Hey sethimus, basically i get you, often google is easier and quicker then asking in a forum.
while this here is may not the best example.

@Airwalker16 yes pretty much like you describe, i press them in from the back.
there is a pocket for the nut.
the side facing up have the 3mm hole for the screw.
its a quite simple construct, you would get it imediatly when you had it in hand.

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Can't think of a better way to utilize extrusion.

some more progress.



all is working.

cobshopgrow said:

some more progress.
View attachment 4465407
View attachment 4465408

all is working.

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Couldn't you have ran all your series connections off on one side to you keep that middle free of all those wires?
What drivers are you using again?

@Airwalker16 i fear i dont.

the wires in the middle are hard to avoid, at 80 strips used, i know theyre not the nicest but they do work, i could print a cover (while my plant wont mind i think... so)..
youll have some hotspot in the middle anyway, so for the plants it will be ok.
i have run most of my wires hidden in the middle to t-slots, slots, not unhappy.

i used the sides for series connections and took as much in series as i can or made sense to me, or driver options allow.

ill use a hlg 320w 2100c for the mainlight, 14 in series, 4 gorups in parallel.
less gorups would mean go to 300v.
thats too much, 150v, i can "get" away (am healthy), much more is not my thing.
48v. DC... you shouldnt lick all day, 12v is hard to feel.

the xlg 200, 240 is a good optioon too!

16 strips 660nm, are on a HLG 60 54V AB,, HLG 40 wasnt in stock.... i wont use more then 30w anyway.
8 strips UVA, 360-370, 390-400, i set the XLG25 to 350mA at about 40V, 14W.
4 strips 730nm 12 leds, 8w meanwell 500ma cc, driver, 2 groups, so 250mA each.

there is always room to optimize, but fear for the wring i cant do much this round.

Ca t wait to see it powered on.

i cant power it in the kitchen to not wake the neighbours with strange c,olors, hehe.
but i tested it low power, single channel.
all is ok, i just need to resolder some wires on one driver and one dimmer.

when in tent , i will post pictures.

may also do a par map, but main interesst so far is to get my og kush under them.
which do look lovely, in contrary to my criticals, where i probably fucked up something... nutirents.. high EC.. ill never learn.

that should be it for now.

cobshopgrow said:

that should be it for now.
View attachment 4466004

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Oh no way!! Fans!?

theyre optional, not needed for the thermals.
made my thermal tests without them in 30c ambient.

well, i have problems placing fans, so these help, beside that they cool the leds even further.
and it pushes down some heat to the canopy, it have some effect you can measure.

couldnt resist to make a test.




the 390-400nm UVA makes the paper discs glow, lol

Airwalker16 said:

Oh no way!! Fans!?

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he‘s in a small tent. if you use a panel nearly as wide as the tent width, downstream fans on the panel are better for airflow than some clip ons in the corner blocking light...

even pros use it in stacked grows: https://vertairsolutions.com/

maybe start to finally think outside of the box, would do us all a great favor, as it would reduce your redundant posts by a lot. thx

some quickly made "par" maps.
tried to keep just my arm in there and tried to kept the door closed.

this is in a 1mx1m, only the main 3000k 80cri eb3 slim strips are on, 56 strips on 325W wall draw.
mesured on 60cm(floor) and 30cm (hand held).


there shouldnt be a problem going nearer then 30cm, or a foot, if your plants can take that.
with the 660nm added youll get 150-250 ppfd more.
havent tested with any uv or far red.
some measurements will be bs, this just give a idea.

think i pressed the tool wide in the back corners at the 60cm measuremnt, due to the form i wasnt that near in front, such thing happened for sure.

cobshopgrow said:

theyre homebrew
wanted to have some in the same form factor as the eb3 slim to make it a bit easier.

i think cutter have some similar sized ones and a nice colletion of leds beside of it, but i think theres dont have the halfholes i wanted.

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Building with one of the cutter uvb/c strips now. They have 2 channels that run at 42V up to 900ma, or the channels can be run in series with 84V. Tried some chanzon drivers off amazon but they seem to either not be setting at appropriate voltage or some other defect as leds blink dim/bright. (one of the 4 drivers I got works properly) Need to look into these xlg drivers, main issue is there does not seem to be a lot of driver choices unless I go for ones that have more output and dim them, thats kinda a waste of money, but I might not have a choice. If anyone hase suggestion for driver please post.

Edit: would like to run the uvb/c at about 350ma per channel and the uva cobs (6-10V) I have at 900ma.