Matching Drivers and COBs

zblade said:

I'm using hlg constant current driver with dimming option B.
I think I'd rather use dimming feature A.
Is there any disadvantages of the A series?

Also,
Is anyone using an AC powered 1-10volts dimmer?
Schematics show the dimmer gets AC power from wall,then drivers get AC power from dimmer and dimming wires get 1-10 volts from dimmer.
I think the only reason drivers get power from dimmer is so that they can be turned off and on by using dimmer.
My question is cant I just power drivers independently and just use 1-10 volt to dim?
My reasoning is since I use a timer for powering everything off and on.

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Disadvantages of A series are only dims to 50% not 10% like B series.
A series can only be dimmed from the driver not remotely.

I havent dimmed via 1-10V variable source, advantages are you can dim one or more with same power source, whereas pot style needs different value for different amounts of drivers. I believe the variable voltage will give a more steady dimming.

You can power and/or dim independently.

bassman999 said:

What leds are you using?

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Leds SMD chip led 36volts 10watts

bassman999 said:

What leds are you using?

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I can't upload an image of an led b'coz some issues are going with web server.

Hey fellows,
I'm planning a DIY LED-Panel for my 140cm*60cm*120hight stealth Ikea Pax.
I'll use the cree Cxb3590 CD 80Cri....
The Growbox is for a long term run.
The point where I'm not sure...
Right now I only can effort 6 cobs and the rest of the stuff.
I could go for 6*36V with 1.4A with 54% efficiency and all good.
Or I could take for the first grow 6*72V with 0.7A with less efficiency (than possible with the 72V) and add 6 more later...
6*36V 1.4A and 6*72V 0.7A is the same output W with a different efficiency 56%/65%) and mol/sm2, right?
Wouldn't it be smart to run the 72V system more softly (less distance to the canopy) with at the end 12*72V Chips running with 25W each?

Is the efficiency benefit resulting from same power work less cost and the advantage of getting closer to the canopy that high that it justifies the 300€ more costs?

3rn1 said:

Hey fellows,
I'm planning a DIY LED-Panel for my 140cm*60cm*120hight stealth Ikea Pax.
I'll use the cree Cxb3590 CD 80Cri....
The Growbox is for a long term run.
The point where I'm not sure...
Right now I only can effort 6 cobs and the rest of the stuff.
I could go for 6*36V with 1.4A with 54% efficiency and all good.
Or I could take for the first grow 6*72V with 0.7A with less efficiency (than possible with the 72V) and add 6 more later...
6*36V 1.4A and 6*72V 0.7A is the same output W with a different efficiency 56%/65%) and mol/sm2, right?
Wouldn't it be smart to run the 72V system more softly (less distance to the canopy) with at the end 12*72V Chips running with 25W each?

Is the efficiency benefit resulting from same power work less cost and the advantage of getting closer to the canopy that high that it justifies the 300€ more costs?

Click to expand...

You just take a look on video name called DIY LED BASICS on YouTube it has 7 part videos by Growmau5.

...................................................
THX I DIDNT KNOW THAT!!!

I´VE PULLED THESE DIFFERENTIATED QUESTIONS OUT OF MY NOSE!!!!

THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!

Hey everyone, I have a wiring question for you. I currently have two lights, lets call them A and B, each with three 36v 3590's ran in series, and each has it's own HLG-240H-C2100A driver. What I want to do it replace the current drivers with one HLG-185H-C700a. Here is my question:

1. If I keep each light wired separately and connect them to the driver using wagos are they still ran in series or does it become series/parallel? Say i use a 3 slot wago, 1 slot for the positive from the driver, 1 slot for the positive from light A, and 1 slot for the positive from light B. The same thing with the negative side. I think this become series/parallel which I don't want but I just want to check before re-wiring.

Thanks

If you do so it's parallel.
If you run your system parallel the whole thing is the other way round.
Running it parallel leads to a static voltage (36V for example) but the current delivered from the driver will be divided by the numbers of users.
If you got an 36V Dc driver with f.e. 5.4A you can run 4 COB's (5.6/4=1,4A)...Output 50W. Run 8 and the output will be 25W each....watch growmou5 ob YouTube necessarily!
After its not that confusing any more...

Thanks 3rn1. That's what i figured after thinking about it for a lil while longer. It looks like i have to rewire everything anyways as the wire i use now is only rated for 150v and i'll need 300v rated.

I'm in the middle of putting something together. I'm running 16 Vero 29 3500k in my flower room which is 6x8. I'm running 4- 4 cob light fixtures. I was looking at the hlg320h-2100a 4 of them 1 on each light. Just making sure I can run these drivers. And do I wire them in series or parallel?

RandomHero -

What you describe - 6 36V 3590's - is exactly what Timber's biggest kit uses. Why not buy the same driver as the Timber kit? The Meanwell HLG-320H-C1400B. Get a pot for it and you'll be able to run the lights at just about whatever intensity you desire.

You lost me with your description of the wiring. It almost sounded like you were talking about a series/parallel circuit?? With that big HLG-320H you would partially dismantle your present wiring systems and string all 6 LED's into one long series string. Not parallel/series.

18AWG solid is the heaviest wire that Ideal recommends for their Chip-Loks. You can use stranded 18AWG but solid is the better choice. It takes a firm push to seat the wire into a Chip-Lok. Solid will either go into the Chip-Lok receiver or bend back on itself. It's easy to tell if you got it right. Stranded can partially unfray as you stuff it into the little tiny receiver. You can end up with a compromised connection and not spot it. And even if it's just a couple of tiny wires sticking out into the air instead of firmly inserted into the Chip-Lok, you don't want to risk some sort of accident. Another option, if you only can find 18 AWG stranded, is to tin the end of the wire. In other words, use your soldering iron to melt a dab of solder onto the end of the stranded wire, making it behave more like solid wire.

I've tried stuffing larger than 18 AWG into the Chip-Loks but it doesn't work out very good. Several times I thought I had it seated. Then the wire fell out.

Thanks Mellodrama.

I decided on the c700 because this is solely a veg light right now and the driver was half the price. If I wanted to turn them back up I still have the c2100 drivers. I went with 18awg solid both times. I had to rewire when i put the c700 on due to the initial wiring was only rated for 150V and I needed at least 300V.

I have a few question before going the DIY way:

What is difference exactly between hlg-185-C1400 and elg-200-C1400 ? same current and watts but seems the hlg a bit better efficiency than the elg am I right?

What does "ELG-200-C1400 A Dimmbar 700-1400mA" means? I understand the "A" means i can switch between 700 or 1400 mA via potentiometer on the driver?


Edit: Ok understood , by dimming mA it will reduce watts on each cobs; B has more precise dimming than A.


So i can run 4 cxb3590 on 200W @ 1400mA or 8 cxb3590 @ 700mA.

If i understood well, when running 8 cobs (8*25=200w) @ 700mA I will have better efficiency, if I bump the mA up it will shut down the cobs cause it will exceed voltage possible when running 8?
Cobs will light up again when coming back to 700 mA.

Am I right or do i risk to blow thing up running in this configuration?

If i had a driver that was 300w@ 5600ma and hooked 4 lights to it parallel,

would the milliamps divide by 4 and give me 75 w each@ 1400 ma?

i am looking at "other" drivers than mean well

somebody asked me about specs for constant current A drivers and i figured it would be easy to paste the directions to get to the current datasheets and test reports here

all meanwell datasheets are here

http://www.meanwell.com/product/led/LED.html


if you click on any series you can roll over "reports" and see actual test reports where they push it to the max. i find max power on any driver in hand is usually really close to the test report data



and if you click on a report you can see max test current and voltage (max current for "A" adjustable current drivers only). 185H-4A:

Hi all, I'm building a light for a 3x2.5 sq ft grow space, both veg and flower. I'm going with 4x citizen 1212 90cri 3500 lights driven at 1050mA and I'm just deciding on a driver, which is where I'd like input.

I'm thinking that I'll wire them in parallel and use a constant voltage driver (so I need something that can handle 36V and 4.2A). This puts me at the HLG-240H-36A, which would allow me to add on additional LEDs down the road. But I'm also open to suggestions.

Does this plan sound reasonable?

Guys help me out please. Looking to buy a driver for my next fixture, but the HLG-185H-C1050 I used in my previous build is out of stock for at least 3 weeks. However they do have the HLG-320H-36 in stock, can I just use that one?

Thing is, I really prefer do run the COB's in series , is that still possible? On the MeanWell website it says it's a dual mode driver, but I rather double check to make sure I don't end up buying something that's of no use to me.

COB's are the 1212 Citizens by the way.

Thanks in advance.

UrbanHustler said:

Guys help me out please. Looking to buy a driver for my next fixture, but the HLG-185H-C1050 I used in my previous build is out of stock for at least 3 weeks. However they do have the HLG-320H-36 in stock, can I just use that one?

Thing is, I really prefer do run the COB's in series , is that still possible? On the MeanWell website it says it's a dual mode driver, but I rather double check to make sure I don't end up buying something that's of no use to me.

COB's are the 1212 Citizens by the way.

Thanks in advance.

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Well, you can't run 1212s in series on HLG-320H-36.

That sucks... O well, then I will have to wait. Not gonna order one from China and pay $40 shipping costs.

None of these drivers btw? Or is it just that the voltage is wrong? Because on the MeanWell website it says it does constant currency AND constant voltage, that's why I thought series was also possible.

UrbanHustler said:

That sucks... O well, then I will have to wait. Not gonna order one from China and pay $40 shipping costs.

None of these drivers btw? Or is it just that the voltage is wrong? Because on the MeanWell website it says it does constant currency AND constant voltage, that's why I thought series was also possible.

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Its maximum output voltage is just too low for more than one 1212 in series. It can run other LEDs (with lower Vf) in series just fine.