manual pumping a hp aero system

my uncle is a master plumber, with no work so he also has free time. if i get stuck or i dont feel comforable ill make him help me, and my skills arent to bad either.
i just found a pressure switch that has a 55psi differential and a unloader valve, i think that will satisfy me.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/PRESSURE-SWITCH-REPLACES-69JF7LY-69MB7LY-FURNAS-SQUARE-D-CONDOR-95-125-L1-/190629724501?pt=BI_Air_Compressors&hash=item2c626ac155

my uncle is a master plumber, with no work so he also has free time. if i get stuck or i dont feel comforable ill make him help me. my plumbing skills are like a B 85% my electrical skills are like a C- 70%.
i just found a pressure switch that has a 55psi differential and a unloader valve, i think that will satisfy me, less to do as well.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/PRESSURE-SWITCH-REPLACES-69JF7LY-69MB7LY-FURNAS-SQUARE-D-CONDOR-95-125-L1-/190629724501?pt=BI_Air_Compressors&hash=item2c626ac155

If you know how a shop compressor works you shouldnt have much trouble.
You`ll need to connect the 1/8" tube from the unloader into the line between the compressor output and the non return valve before the tank.
The pressure switch and pressure relief valve need to be positioned after the non return valve so they can "see" the air pressure in the tank. The external tank isnt likely to have a non return valve fitted as standard.
It may be easier to remove the original fitting (probably a tee) and replace it with a regulator that has five 1/4" ports. Connect the bottom port to the tank, port 1 to the compressor via the non return valve. Port 2 to the pressure switch. Pressure relief valve on port 3 and a quick connect on port four for the output. Shouldn`t take more than a couple of hours if the threads are all standard size and type.
The electrical side is easy, hook the compressor power lead to one side of the pressure switch contacts, a mains power lead to the other side and you`re done, apart from adjusting the pressure switch cut-in / cut out points.

hey thanks for the step by step. when you say the non return valve, would check valve be a synonym
ive spent a few hours looking at diagrams, and reading things on this, so i think ill be able to do it.

i found a roll of red and a roll of black 14 gauge strand electrical wire, and a box of different connectors, at my dads house. this is obviously fat enough wire to handle a handful of amps at 12volts correct.
so as soon as my solenoids get here im going to be able connect my solenoids to it and figure out how to set all the different switches.
it says its good for 1/10th of a second but i couldnt find the info on how to set it that way in the instructions,just for one second, probably have to just play with it when everything gets here.

check valve is the same thing. This vid will give you an idea of the different types in the usa, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-G6jFIC0DV8
The pic shows a metric non return with the unloader tube. Most imported compressors have multiple connection points on the tank where the external tank may have just the one.

Sorry to bring up the timer/solenoids from a few pages back but I have a question about wiring: I have the 422ar relay cycle timer and I've wired up my 12vDC power source to positions 2&7 on the 8-pin socket and it works fine, and I've separately tested my solenoid valves (12v, normally closed) with the power source and they click open as soon as contact is made. However when I rig the solenoid conductors at #3&6 (as per Mike Young's diagram on page 3) along with the power at #2&7 with the timer plugged in, I get no opening/closing with my simple 3 sec on/3 sec off cycle. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong? If someone could help explain the wiring to me, I would be very grateful.

Oh and saw this video on adjusting pressure switches, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zh_hfD3rCA0, and removed the cover to the one on my compressor. There is a single cylinder with a screw and a P with plus/minus signs, looks similar to the third model in the video. It looks like I can at least alter the cut-in/cut-out pressure to some degree. I'm going to play around with it a bit to see if I can achieve a more acceptable pressure range.

Edit: Just bridged connections at 7&8 and 1&2, seems to be working!

you need to put +12v dc and 0v on the relay commons which are pins 1 and 8, the easiest way is to put a link across from each of the timer power terminals. The timer power conections (2 & 7) only provide power to the timer circuit, not the relay

Ahh I see, so in my original configuration I was only powering the timer. After playing around with some different orientations I think I got it figured out, thanks a bunch!

If you look at the wiring diagram you can see pin 1 (relay common) connects to pin 4 (NC) when the relay is off and pin 3 (NO) when its on. Likewise with the other pole of the relay, pin 8 connects to pin 5 (NC) when its off and pin 6 (NO) when its on. NC= normally closed, NO= normally open
As both poles of the relay are seperate, you could use a completely different voltage on each side if you needed to. The contacts would be able to switching the "live", so you`d need to use a seperate connector block or wire nut for the neutrals. Its quite a versatile timer

Pressure switches usually come with cryptic instructions but you`ll soon fathom it out.
Mine just says this

1. Turn up completely differential nut (1)
2. Adjust range nut (2) to wished cut-in pressure (pump start)
3. Turn down differential nut (1) up to wished cut-out pressure

im about wire up my timer too as my solenoids and nozzles will arrive tomorrow.

i just got my compressor at my door today. holy shit the packaging didnt impress me, neither did the instructions.
they packaged it in a cardboard box with those plastic baggies of air, and the thing weighs like 20 pounds, so it poped them all. the box was ready to fall apart, and when i opened it i noticed a bent heat fin.
when i read the instructions, which are barly legible,and completely useless it instructs me to attach the filter to the exaust instead of the intake. there are 2 threaded holes on each side of the compressor one reads "EXHAUST" and on the other side it reads "COMEIN".
i guess ill have to get a powercord and wire it up to know which end to put the filter. and i dont know if its standard when you buy a compressor on its own but there is also what i believe to be a capacitor loose in the box that i have to wire up myself.

hey seed 55 nice to hear your coming along, i figure in a ten days ill have my first prototype together, well have to take pictures and compare.

atomizer i was digging in the aerogardener forum and i saw a post you made showing a diagram of your vertical outdoor aero chamber in 2009.how do you feel about that design now. would you mind telling me a little bit about it, it looks like something id like to build a couple of out in the boondocks. do you get a good yeild?

Supporting plants on a curved vertical wall is the main problem. The other is supporting the weight and having enough torque available to turn it. The best idea would be to put floats on the chamber and park the whole thing in a round pool which can double as the res. The walls of the pool will need to be pretty sturdy and high enough to handle the displacement caused by the chamber but you`d gain almost friction free rotation. Upward firing AA nozzles are ideal way to deliver the mist, you`d only need 3 for an 8ft diameter chamber 6-8ft tall, 4 for a 12ft`er.

ive recieved almost everything now, but im having trouble figuring out my power supply. i just found a 12v 2000ma ac to dc adapter , i got it for one dollar. but that puts me 1000ma behind where i need to be.
is i possible to wire two different acdc adapters in parallel as long as there both 12v, or is this unsafe for some reason?

i couldnt find an old computer power supply.

also the wires on my 12v solenoids dont have any positive and negative markings do i need to worry about polarity?

If they are regulated and not switchmode supplies you can wire them in parallel. A larger single supply would be better because if one fails..they both fail
Do you really want $$$ system reliant on $2 worth of power supply?
Dc solenoids can be wired either way.

your right dude, im going to look at a more reliable source of power its sort of the weakest link.

damn im so close to having everything. i started working on my air conmpresor. its slightly noisier than i like so im going to build a enclosure like you posted some where atomizer. a sound insulated box with no bottom and a hole for the air intake and a hose leading to the tank.

heres some pictures





i was so proud of my self until the hose i connected to the unloader on the pressure switch flew off at 100psi, i connected a gauge on to the empty place on the tee.

also im having problems finding the last piece of the puzzle. a water pressure regulator.

yawn time to go to bed

if i use a brass pressure regulator for water, will i have problems. i know its the salt in my nutrient solution that causes problems but isnt it true that ill be using much lower ecs than other forms of hydroponics?

My compressor is oil lubricated and gets barely warm to the touch. If yours is fan cooled, you`ll have to make sure there`s enough airflow through the enclosure or it`ll overheat. Is the non return/check valve incorporated into the unloader hose fitting before the bronze coloured tee?
There should be a few links to water pressure regulators in Trichy`s thread, they work fine with nutes