HOW TO KILL SPIDER MITES 100%: " Naturally - no chemicals"

Discussion in 'Bugs' started by calibuzz, Oct 10, 2011.


    calibuzz Member

    By Calibuzz - 30 year grower

    Cured Clone - see new growth!

    You have Spider Mites? YOU HAVE A PROBLEM!!! Unless you are diligent and work hard, the problem will not go away, your crop is doomed as one by one they fail and die.

    As a Native American, proud of our heritage and ways in keeping with the environment, I give to you a method that is naturally harmonious, and pure. The method is so benign, you may use this method even during flowering - without a single harm to your precious plants.

    The best way is not the easiest by far; to do the perfect job takes comitment - so all you lazy bud heads who want a quick fix: "look elsewhere, or coat your precious medicine with chemicals and poison...and remind me not to smoke your herb."

    Editor's note: One will find a bit of cross talk in this thread, and some rude posts. The Editor aplogizes that many have strayed off the central subject and prefer to haze each other. However, one will find many other concerned members with great suggestions and feedback. - calibuzz

    "Now then, for all you fervent horticulturists..."

    Spider mites are alive; you can make them dead. All life is fragile, but... "how do I kill the mites without hurting my crop?"

    I will not use pesticides or harmful chemicals on my plants; thus, I have found an all-natural way to rid the infestations that sometimes occur. Curing your plants takes time and care, but you can rid your babies of the mini-spiders that suck your plant's life's blood.

    Spiders have skin-like exoskeletons; the tissues are sensitive to change. Molecules soak though their pours, skin and orifices; thus, what may bother you - a giant living organism - might prove fatal to a spider the size of a pinhead. This is so when using a common group of proteins found in Nature. I will teach you how to naturally and inexpensively rid your plants of the dreaded spider mites.
    :fire:The Habanera Pepper (sometimes pronounced Habenero) is the key ingredient in pepper spray. Once you make a batch of CALICLEAN you'll see why. One may buy habanera peppers in any vegetable section for about 6 dollars a pound. The peppers are light orange to dark red, and are about the size of a bic lighter when fully mature, most are half that size. Go buy a pound, now!!! If you have mites, time is of the essence.

    NOTICE: The spray you make is not harmful to humans (hab peppers are an ingredient in all really good south of the border salsas), but irritating to mucus membranes and soft tissues, it will make you cough - as its like breathing chili powder, so use care.

    If you have taken a powerful magnifying glass to the underside of your plant's leaves you will have seen the little off-yellow dots with a brown center that move about slowly over the plant leafs and veins - the mature mites. These big mites leave web-strands like other spiders. Web strands between leaf and stems (as they cross back and forth to new vulnerable leaves), and between leaf serrations are indications of a healthy infestation and big mites on your plants. You may also have seen almost too-hard-to-see little brown dots crawling slowly about. These are the baby mites that will grow into big suckers. You may also have seen groups of little white dots near the central leaf brachiation and the main leaf veins. These are clutches of mite eggs. They will soon hatch and produce up to 80 mites per clutch, per mature mite. You are screwed if you do nothing. But fret not, you can save your plants, and they will recover and thrive - with diligence.


    Making the Calicleaner

    1.) Get a sauce pan - fill with one pint of water - put on lowest flame possible (do not boil !!!).
    2.) Chop 4 -5 Habanera peppers fine. Chop open seeds and central membranes, as the power lies there.
    3.) Simmer chopped peppers for 20 minutes - making sure not to boil (you will destroy the active proteins).
    4.) When you put your head over the pan and the wispy-steam stings your eyes, the Calicleaner is ready.
    5.) Pour the Calicleaner through a fine mesh strainer - a little fine grit is OK - let cool in a clean bowl.
    6.) Pour room temperature contents in a mister spray bottle. Your are ready to apply.

    HOW TO APPLY Calicleaner
    1.) Put on gloves, and wear a mask, or at least put a bandana around your nose and mouth.
    2.) Turn off all fans - you do not want this spray in your eyes!!!
    3.) Spray the bottom of EVERY leaf - starting with the bottom leaves first, work up to the top.
    4.) After the bottoms are done, hit the tops and the stems.
    5.) Squirt liberally in new leaf pods - tightly wound new leaf growth (the small mites hide there).
    6.) Get the heck out of the room till it clears.
    7.) Repeat procedure with each plant.
    8.) Spray the soil, the pots, and the floor or earth around the area to kill dropping mites and stop migration.
    9.) Wash hands with soap and water when complete - the stuff will heat-up skin for 4 hours.
    10.) DO NOT WORRY. Though the stuff is lethal to mites, the plants love it.


    Congratulations! You have successfully killed the mites that you sprayed - on contact!. Plus, the mites are thwarted in biting again as they get a lethal dose of hot mouth. Your plants should be turning green again with in half a day. Though the leaves are scarred, they will recover and work again - producing vital sugars for growth.

    However, you are not done. Some mites will escape the spray, though you have killed 95% of them. Thus, you will have to do the spray again tomorrow. As a matter of fact you will have to spray every 2-3 days till you see no more mites - usually up to two weeks. SOME EGGS WILL HATCH!!! Thus a week after the first spray, do a super job again, the baby mites are likely out and about. Kill 'em right away.

    Use your magnifying glass to inspect each plant carefully, when nothing moves and you see no more webs, your plants are clear. YEAH!!

    Additional precautions: make sure your containers and pots do not touch, mites migrate. Clean your floors and equipment so live mites do not return (spray them down with Caliclean). Since no person can kill every living mite in their situation, eternal diligence is now part of the equation. One mite may turn into a million in a month.

    Other helpful hints: wash your plants with clean water spray between sprayings, this cleans off dead mites and eggs, and refreshes the plant leaf compromised by the vampire sucking mites. Keep the room cool, 78 degrees to 68 degrees if possible during treatment. Mites hate the cold - thus weakened mites will drop dead. If lower leaves are infested with eggs and mites - cut them off! DO NOT LEAVE CUTTINGS NEARBY! Burn or bury your cuttings far away.

    Spraying notes: Mites tend to collect where the leaves join at the nexus and overlap. If you can, lay your plants on-end or position upsidedown (be real careful) to make sure all undersides are sprayed. Cut off curled leaves where they collect. If you're a rich person you may make a full pound to ten gallons of water and dunk them - even better!!

    The best part of using Calicleaner is you may use it always - even during flowering. As the solution is all natural, no one is harmed but the mites: "Nature to deal with Nature." Your money goes to a farmer not a chemical corporation.

    Caliclean works,

    Check often; check carefully; your plants will thank you with fine flowering! Be good to your Natural Medicine, and it will be good to you.

    Good Luck and best wishes, "How Ni Kan, Megwetch," Peace be with you always,


    IMAG0540.jpg IMAG0535.jpg IMAG0383.jpg

    Image one: Cured Clone - see new growth.
    Image two: Cured Nursery - all plants mite free after caliclean!
    Image three: After the Storm - I was out hiking the mountains and witnessed this.

    There is hope at the end of every rainbow; don't give up!

    hippiepudz024 Well-Known Member

    Duuuuuuuuuuuuuuude i have spider mites and they are all in the baby phase right now, ive been spraying azamax and its not working im going to wal mart right now to buy the peppers and do the spray i will update daily and tell how it works my buddy has them too he will use this pepper spray i will leave comments
    Masterbear and WolfieLee like this.

    GorbertJones Active Member

    sounds rather interesting. can anyone else vouch for this method before i go and burn my eyes out haha
    Masterbear and fandango like this.

    dbkick Well-Known Member

    here we go again, mighty wash by npk industries, I'm not gonna say another word.

    calibuzz Member

    Good! You caught the the little punks early. Nice look'en out DUDE!!. I shall check in regularly. I will be happy to walk you through it, if you have any questions. If you follow the steps - you are on your way to irradication. Do not hesitate to cut off lower leaves infested, or as many as required (If leaves faded to 50% of healthy - pale, or whited-out from the top view - meaning the chlorphyll is sucked out, making the white spots). If your plants are in the vegitative stage: add three weeks to the 18 hour cycle to assure maximum re-growth. Mights suck!

    Best Wishes,


    Joegrowsalot2 likes this.

    calibuzz Member

    Hey Man.

    Your a buzzkill dude.

    What's your solution professor? Bet you got none bdickk
    Kjc99 and Supersweetnuggs like this.

    calibuzz Member


    To try is to find out. Got a little scientist in you? For 2 bucks in peppers...proove me wrong. And when I'm right I shall graciously except your humble apology and I might say with a smiling grin: "I told you so." :)

    I'm here to help, not harm.

    My Best!

    Peace be with you,


    Bwpz Well-Known Member

    Lol "bdickk". His solution was obviously Mighty Wash. I use Neem Oil, which ias organic and harmless as well. Never tried peppers, but it makes sense that it would kill the mites, not sure if it'd harm your plants or not, I don't see why it would.

    calibuzz Member

    Cool Bwpz! Ire, Ja mon,

    Yeah Brother. A great product that works can be had at . However, that stuff should only be used in a last chance emegency - as it leaves a residue. I prefer no gunk on my junk... "if you feel me." :) "I Wan'na smoke da medicine, not gunk on my herb dude. I'm funny that way."

    Mighty wash is not for me. One should do it themselves - rid mites. It build good character, knowledge, and fashions a tighter bond with the plant and its integral aspects.

    Oh...BTW. No Caliclean does not harm plants at all!!!!!!!!!!!! Its like taking an organic bath for them - no nervous system you know. No pain, no schock, no effects what-so-ever, but the good plant karma that says in the back of one's head that if the plant could speak it might say: "Thank you, I've been cured by a loving farmer." :)

    Thank you for your feedback!

    My Best,



    hellraizer30 Rebel From The North

    Mighty wash works well
    Colo MMJ and spliffendz like this.

    calibuzz Member

    Excuse me, Perhaps "lie" is too strong a word. Thank you for your input, I exagerated a tad. I do not like Mighty Wash, or its results or ingredients. My personal opinion.

    I respect each farmer to use the method or product that works best for their individual situation, and grower's ideology. Each to their own - though... I do test everything that comes along my way scientifically, without bias. Been to UCLA and have a few degrees under my belt. Thank you. What is provided above to those panicing, desperate and in dire-need, is only one particular solution to a problem that plagues us all. A healing solution - proved beyond any doubt - in my intensive works, investigations, and in-house clinical trials on my own stocks.

    My Best,



    jimmy5800 Active Member

    could i make the pepper spray and store it, will it keep and how long for!

    what about scotch bonnets, they are the only peppers i can get round here will they work?

    maybe it will work on other pests too.

    i will make some.

    thanks for the advice, really good info.

    calibuzz Member

    Howdy Jimmy5800!

    Thank you for your questions and input!

    1.) If one makes a batch, you may store it in your fridge indefinetly -- weeks and weeks. Also, if you save your residue after cooking the first batch, you can sqeeze a second batch out of it by (after freezing it) soaking the dregs in hot water and letting sit for 8 hours.
    2.) Yes and No. Though all peppers have active protiens that make them hot, not all work as well. A lot of boiling and concentrating might have to take place to gain the potency of the Habenera Pepper. Get dried Habies on-line, and soak those in scalding water for an hour. Caliclean knocks them dead instantly on contact.
    3.) Yes! It works well on aphids and most very small leaf-biting insects and arachnids.
    4.) Enjoy your natural alchemy; have fun - don't forgrt not to touch your eyes after you handle the stuff. WHOA!!! :)

    Peace be With You Always

    My Best,


    del66666 Well-Known Member

    neem does it every time for me...................
    Vnsmkr likes this.

    calibuzz Member

    Yo del,

    Sure neem is sheen, but I don' like the oil residue in my lungs. Pepper spray protien breaks down or half-lifes in a few hours and simply washes off with water, leaving your vital herb "...unmolested, and your lungs worken happy - like long time brother." Feel that love?

    Peace bro!

    My best,

    Dannabis!, D_Urbmon and Morbid Angel like this.

    virulient Active Member



    virulient Active Member

    How does that pepper work out during flowering? Have you tried it? Does it effect the trichomes in any way? Thanks in advance.

    jimmy5800 Active Member

    i will make some to store, always good to be ready for war.

    its good that you can use it whilst flowering with no adverse effects too.

    thanks for the answers.
    peace and respect.
    Supersweetnuggs likes this.

    buttrick Member

    Had A few things to add on this one.........

    Neem oil clogs stomata making it hard if not impossible to breathe through the leaves.

    Cool little tip about spider mites is that they stop reproducing with less than 12 hours of light. they are extremely sensitive to light so it would serve you well to drop below 12 on - and tape every tiny little light in your room. with application of the above mentioned recipe- they should be doomed!
    Dannabis! likes this.

    calibuzz Member

    A spider is not a normal insect sir!

    Get your entemology down before you post the wrong answer to a serious problem. Hanging pest strips do not induce clinging biting spiders to move. This is bad advice, and I would ask you to remove and edit your post as others will get the wrong idea. Please use your kind and thoughtful intellect before posting.

    If you have other information, write it out. One minute posts are about as valuable as dead plants, which is what one will have if one relies on this method. Cheap, fast, and worthless. About as useful as fighting termites with tobacco smoke in the next room.

    Thank you for your attempt at positive input. However: "bad and damaging information taints the community threads and confuses the audience seeking answers to their most immediate and serious problems."

    Good day,



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