How to install Uniseals -Advanced

I've always been a big fan of Uniseal. I like bulkhead fittings, too. They both do the same job, and if both are installed correctly, it basically comes down to preference, imo. This thread has tips on how to install them correctly.


For this we'll be using a 1 1/2" Uniseal. The hole saw size is 2 1/2".


So here is where most things start to go wrong before they even start.
Hole saws are different from one maker to the next. Here is an example. This is from a cheap set that I bought.


Look at the hole saw first!!!
These things are made one a second probably in manufacturing. Look at the side of your saw:

If your teeth tilt outward, you are going to cut an over sized hole, every time.
Here is what an expensive hole saw looks like.

Here is the diameter of the base of the saw:

Here is the diameter of the teeth on that saw.


That's a pretty big difference, on this saw. We'll fix that in a minute, but lets check out the diameter on the Uniseal.


So right away our saw is already .036" too big. I used to be a machinist once upon a time, and 36 thousandths is a mile. Add to that number the fact that this hole saw probably isn't a true circle either, so there is going to be some wobble when it spins making the hole even bigger.
Yes the Uniseal will expand when you insert the pipe, but you want to start off snug when installed, it shouldn't spin easily in the hole, or flop around at all before you insert the pipe. I can tell you right now if it spins or moves in the hole, chances of having a leak go way up.

Continued...

Pro Tip:
Boil water and right when you're ready to install the pipes, bring the water to the install and let the uniseals sit in the water for 2-3 minutes. Then pull it out, leaving wet, install it and use a 1:1 ratio of dish soap and water mixture to lube up with and get to pushin.
Also when you bevel the end of the pipe to get your pipe started, really angle it. Not a bevel that's 1/4" from the end. Make it closer to like 3/4" down. A nice long bevel with a longer slope rather than a short one with a 45* cut off.

We need to bring that diameter down. Chuck up the saw in your drill and grind it down to size. If you don't have a bench grinder, I'd use a file or even concrete if you really have nothing. Just find some sidewalk you don't mind scratching up, spin it and grind it on that if that's all you have.


There, now let's check it out.


I got lucky, I wasn't trying to hit a gnat's ass, but I wanted to get close.
Now, everything is ready to start drilling. The main thing in drilling the holes is stay square.


If you angle the drill very much at all you will start drilling an oval, and that is going to leak no matter what.


Lastly, clean up the hole with sand paper. Don't dig into it, just take the plastic lip off. I wouldn't use a razor at all. A bite with the razor into the bucket and you'll have a leak.


That pretty much covers it. If you follow these steps I'm sure you won't have any problems.

When it comes to leaks IMO the problem isn't the Uniseal, but user error.

To be extra safe I applied aquarium sealant to the inner edge of the uniseal where it meets the container which I sanded with wet sandpaper. Not sure if I would have had leaks without it but you can see where a small amount came through to the inside of the tote. So far been used for a few months and not one leak.

shawnery said:

To be extra safe I applied aquarium sealant to the inner edge of the uniseal where it meets the container which I sanded with wet sandpaper. Not sure if I would have had leaks without it but you can see where a small amount came through to the inside of the tote. So far been used for a few months and not one leak.

Click to expand...

If you just install them correctly you won't have leaks unless the rubber itself splits right down the seam as one of mine did. The guy i bought from was very helpful and 2 day shipped me a few replacements.

Excellent tutorial Big Perm, thank you. I have just built an RDWC with Uniseals. Over here in the UK we struggle to get the exact pipe to fit the seals and they can be very tight to fit the pipe through.

If I could add anything it would be soak the seals in boiling water for a few minutes then smear with washing up liquid before quickly pushing the pipe through.

I would also add that any leaks would probably be due to using thin walled buckets or tubs. Spend a few extra quid for sturdier plastic or polythene tubs.

fartoblue said:

Excellent tutorial Big Perm, thank you. I have just built an RDWC with Uniseals. Over here in the UK we struggle to get the exact pipe to fit the seals and they can be very tight to fit the pipe through.

If I could add anything it would be soak the seals in boiling water for a few minutes then smear with washing up liquid before quickly pushing the pipe through.

I would also add that any leaks would probably be due to using thin walled buckets or tubs. Spend a few extra quid for sturdier plastic or polythene tubs.

Click to expand...

Airwalker16 said:

Pro Tip:
Boil water and right when you're ready to install the pipes, bring the water to the install and let the uniseals sit in the water for 2-3 minutes. Then pull it out, leaving wet, install it and use a 1:1 ratio of dish soap and water mixture to lube up with and get to pushin.
Also when you bevel the end of the pipe to get your pipe started, really angle it. Not a bevel that's 1/4" from the end. Make it closer to like 3/4" down. A nice long bevel with a longer slope rather than a short one with a 45* cut off.

View attachment 4236859

Click to expand...

Maybe read first?

whoops

Airwalker16 said:

If you just install them correctly you won't have leaks unless the rubber itself splits right down the seam as one of mine did. The guy i bought from was very helpful and 2 day shipped me a few replacements.

Click to expand...

Mine never leaked, but that's why I went to bulkheads. Who knows if it will split two years down the road.
Great write up and explanation of the hole saw. I love my caliper btw.