++Hellraizers++ DO AND DONTs and in and outs of the ebb&grow/ebb&flow systems

raiderman

Well-Known Member
tho i have 100,000 watts outdoor access and 1 acre at my disposal it does still have a rip to it.see ya HR.
 

srfjay

Member
Quick question for you guys, I am coming from dirt and switching to a ebb and flow. The question I have is I purchased a air pump to aerate my 55gl res and just want to know if you guys run it 24/7 or on a timer? And if on a timer what type of schedrule you running? Thanks for any help.
 

akpaco

Active Member
Quick question for you guys, I am coming from dirt and switching to a ebb and flow. The question I have is I purchased a air pump to aerate my 55gl res and just want to know if you guys run it 24/7 or on a timer? And if on a timer what type of schedrule you running? Thanks for any help.

I run it 24/7. Don't believe there's a reason not to constantly be aerating your res.
 

Malevolence

New Member
Question on ph management...

I have recently read that you can use pure 33% sulfuric acid from auto zone to lower ph.

Well I tried it . It works it's safe and for the price of 1 u.s. Gallon of ph down is under 5$.

Only negative aide effect? I can't read the tds. My ppm meter goes CRAZY!.

Any suggestions?

Oh yeah i am putting this stuff right into my 18 gallon resivior...
I have heard of people doing this, but I believe you should use food grade sulfuric acid, which battery acid (while it will lower your ph) is not. All I will say is I wouldn't want to smoke your battery acid weed. Also, it is not safe, you need to take some precautions when handling sulfuric acid. Not being able to read your PPM meter is a pretty shitty side effect.

I believe I have read that sulfuric acid (food grade or not) can make certain nutrients unavailable to your plants by turning them into solids or something, but I don't feel like digging around to find a source for that. Bottom line, I wouldn't use auto zone sulfuric acid in my setup.
 

GreenThumbSucker

Well-Known Member
I have heard of people doing this, but I believe you should use food grade sulfuric acid, which battery acid (while it will lower your ph) is not. All I will say is I wouldn't want to smoke your battery acid weed. Also, it is not safe, you need to take some precautions when handling sulfuric acid. Not being able to read your PPM meter is a pretty shitty side effect.

I believe I have read that sulfuric acid (food grade or not) can make certain nutrients unavailable to your plants by turning them into solids or something, but I don't feel like digging around to find a source for that. Bottom line, I wouldn't use auto zone sulfuric acid in my setup.
There is no such thing as 'Food grade' sulfuric acid. Battery acid is pure sulfuric acid mixed with RO water, and is diluted down to 30%. It is used by commercial hydroponic greenhouses for food production.

Sulfuric acid does not cause nutrient lockout. Hydroponic fertilizers contain huge amounts of sulfur already. It is irrelevant where you buy the battery acid, be it auto zone or anywhere else.
 

GreenThumbSucker

Well-Known Member
When it comes to ph down i like AN line of down! And if i need to ph up i use tap water for a nat effect.
I use potassium hydroxide for PH up. It is a hydroponic fertilizer and a very good blossom booster. You can get it here very cheaply: http://www.essentialdepot.com/servlet/the-Potassium-dsh-Hydroxide-dsh-KOH-dsh-Potash/Categories
1 tablespoon makes a gallon, a little less for smaller reservoirs, a little more for larger reservoirs. I get the 4 lbs for $11 size. That's an easy 4 or 5 year supply.
 

hellraizer30

Rebel From The North

Penyajo

Well-Known Member
Well I can now say I have read all 50 pages of this thread. And wow alot of great info in here. I my self am going to be building a 2x4 flood and drain table and am going to running the sog method. The last few weeks I have really been stuck in between if I want to use 6" square flood and drain pots while using hydroton as the medium. Or if I should start with small RW plug, root the clone in that and then put that into a 6" RW cube. I have been doing DWC for about 1 year and a half. I have always loved it. But this last grow I made some DIY 5gal cooler Rez's. And to do a rez change you have to unscrew the top. It makes it very hard to maneuver. So I am looking for a system with a control Rez and some thing I can make practically automated. That's for you help in advance. STAY HIGH!!!
 

hellraizer30

Rebel From The North
Well I can now say I have read all 50 pages of this thread. And wow alot of great info in here. I my self am going to be building a 2x4 flood and drain table and am going to running the sog method. The last few weeks I have really been stuck in between if I want to use 6" square flood and drain pots while using hydroton as the medium. Or if I should start with small RW plug, root the clone in that and then put that into a 6" RW cube. I have been doing DWC for about 1 year and a half. I have always loved it. But this last grow I made some DIY 5gal cooler Rez's. And to do a rez change you have to unscrew the top. It makes it very hard to maneuver. So I am looking for a system with a control Rez and some thing I can make practically automated. That's for you help in advance. STAY HIGH!!!
The growth is about the same between the too. Pros and cons to hydrotron are it needs to be flooded more, this is good
because it bring new water and nutes to the plant then when the water is draining out new air moves in to the roots. Theres
no waistes of medium. Cons you will need to flood your table with more water due to hydrotron not having the ability to
wick. Cleaning is a pain in the ass! Plants take longer to recover after transplant.

R/w will wick so less water is needed, allowing for a much smaller res. as for what type of bucket or block to use?
If your soging them on a 2x4 table i would use 4x4 r/w blocks. And put a peace of poly over the top of the table
to stop algae from starting.
 

Penyajo

Well-Known Member
First off thanks for the response. If you have the time I could use some help before I start buying materials and wasting money. Lets start with the rez. I am going to be using a 24 gallon Igloo cooler. I can add ice if needed any time. So rez temps should be fine. I am also going to be consistently brewing a Myco tea. Do you still think I should get a cover for the table while running the tea with good rez temps or do you think that will be enough to battle it off. Now lets talk about the medium a bit. Is there a reason you say use the 4x4 r/w blocks rather than using something like a 6x6 block? I was thinking the 6x6 just for a bit more room for the roots. But if you think the 4x4's are big enough for them to finish off I would rather use them. That will give a bit more space in between the blocks on the table and will let them breathe a bit more. What size pump would you recommend for a 2x4 flood table? Thanks man. STAY HIGH!!!
 

hellraizer30

Rebel From The North
First off thanks for the response. If you have the time I could use some help before I start buying materials and wasting money. Lets start with the rez. I am going to be using a 24 gallon Igloo cooler. I can add ice if needed any time. So rez temps should be fine. I am also going to be consistently brewing a Myco tea. Do you still think I should get a cover for the table while running the tea with good rez temps or do you think that will be enough to battle it off. Now lets talk about the medium a bit. Is there a reason you say use the 4x4 r/w blocks rather than using something like a 6x6 block? I was thinking the 6x6 just for a bit more room for the roots. But if you think the 4x4's are big enough for them to finish off I would rather use them. That will give a bit more space in between the blocks on the table and will let them breathe a bit more. What size pump would you recommend for a 2x4 flood table? Thanks man. STAY HIGH!!!
Pumps, a 250 gph should be fine.
the reason im leaning to the 4x4 block is because on a 2x4 table theres not much room so im guessing your
going to sog what you will put on it, so small plants is what yor going to be growing. 6x6 block are good for
a much larger plants and would be a waist. One thing you will need to do is trellis them for support.
 

Penyajo

Well-Known Member
Pumps, a 250 gph should be fine.
the reason im leaning to the 4x4 block is because on a 2x4 table theres not much room so im guessing your
going to sog what you will put on it, so small plants is what yor going to be growing. 6x6 block are good for
a much larger plants and would be a waist. One thing you will need to do is trellis them for support.
Thanks for your help. I am going to start getting supplies to start on the table. After I get the tray and every thing I will build a nice trellis for it.
One thing that I dont see working out that well is a cover for the tray to keep down any algae growth. I really dont see how I will be able to use a cover for it with the amount of plants I will be having. I just think that I would have to many holes in the cover of the tray for it to serve much of a purpose. STAY HIGH MANE!!!
 

hellraizer30

Rebel From The North
@penya hey if your planning on loading the table up, the conopy from the plants will cover it for the most part.
i dont care to much about algae when it get bad i just pull everything off an clean it good then put them back in.
 

FaceEater

Member
Amazing thread here Hellraizer (extra props for being a cenobite fan ;) )!!

How do you feel about combining hydroton and grodan cubes (4")? Like filling the trays up with pebbles and just bury the cubes in it?
That was my plan anyway, but I still have time to reconsider..
 
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