Get a Harvest Every 2 Weeks

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grandpabear3

New Member
al need your help yet again, to refresh your memory i am the one with the grow room that is 8'x14'x8' and has the benefit of an a.c. unit. I just purchased a 6" 496cfm blower/fan that i am gonna use as the rooms main exhaust. i know you say yours is on a thermostatic switch and i will buy one but for now all i have is a digi timer, what i need to know is how long should i run the room exhaust and how often? ( until i get the thermo switch )
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
Holy crap. I made it to the end of this marathon (even though the finish line kept moving further away.) Thank you so much for donating all of your time to this thread and all the info Al. I think I need to read it again and take notes this time.

[...]
Thanks again. I really appreciate your level headed, results driven philosophy towards growing, the minimal effort you want to put into it so you aren't married to your grow all the time and all the advice about the gimicky crap that we don't need to buy in order to grow great bud!
Thanks for that. Glad you got all the way through the thread. It's a big ask, but I bet you got several questions answered before you had to ask them. :)

I had a couple of questions about the AAW reflectors (sorry if I missed 'em.) Do you know why the adjust-a-wings come in two different sizes based on wattage? Wouldn't that have to do more with how much spread you want or is it that the higher wattage bulbs are physically bigger in size?

The different sized AAWs are for different sized lamps or for covering lighted space areas of different sizes. Obviously, the larger reflector suits larger grow spaces. You should use the largest ref you can fit in.

400 & 600W HPS tube envelopes themselves are not too different in size, about the same diameter (roughly 80mm) but 600s are about 50mm longer. 1000s are about 300mm long and have a bulge in the middle of the tube's glass envelope, making them about 100mm around their middles.

The large AAWs will suit a pair of 400s or 600s or a single 1000. Naturally, since lumens don't 'add,' using multiple lamps is not a great idea. You don't get brighter (more intense) light by putting more than one relatively dimmer light over the same area. It is light intensity that drives bud production. A rule-o-thumb that works pretty well for HPS light is 50W per sq ft.

A more precise way to decide what lamp to use is to work out the actual lumens per sq metre (lux) that the lamp can lay down, with the lamp-to-leaf spacing figured in. Remember that light intensity reduces by a square of the distance from lamp to leaf. An uncooltubed 600 can be spaced closer to leaves than an uncooltubed 1000, so a 600 can actually put down more lux than a 1000. However, when cooltubes are used, all bets are off. The 1000 wins hands down.

al need your help yet again, to refresh your memory i am the one with the grow room that is 8'x14'x8' and has the benefit of an a.c. unit. I just purchased a 6" 496cfm blower/fan that i am gonna use as the rooms main exhaust. i know you say yours is on a thermostatic switch and i will buy one but for now all i have is a digi timer, what i need to know is how long should i run the room exhaust and how often? ( until i get the thermo switch )
496CFM is a hell of a lot for a 6" blower! Is that figure right? I have a few Allvent A60, 150mm blowers in service; the maker rates the A60 at 192CFM.

Since you have aircon managing your temp, you only need to bring in some fresh, CO2 laden air every so often. You won't need a thermostat for that job. I'm not confident of the actual flow rate of your 6" blower, so I can't really give a solid figure, but I can ballpark you.

You're looking to exchange the room's air volume once or twice an hour during lights-on. If your fan really does move 496 CFM, it will exchange your 896cu ft room airmass in 1.8 minutes. You might run your exhaust blower for 2-3 mins, either once or twice an hour. Obviously, that figure will change if your blower is closer to 200CFM. If it is 200CFM, run the blower for 4-5 mins, once or twice an hour.
 

grandpabear3

New Member
ya al that's what it says. i just bought it from htgsupply it's a 6" inline centrifigal fan. the ad says:


Control odor and temperature in your grow area with this Grow Bright 6" Inline Fan. Inline fans are perfect for carbon filters, air cooling lighting reflectors or attaching to ducting to ventilate your grow room!

Customers can control odors and keep equipment cool with this compact metal fan. Extremely quiet and easy to install, this 110-watt, 6-inch fan pushes 424 cubic feet per minute.

This fan goes perfectly with the Goblin Charcoal Filter

i do appologize it says 424 not 496

here is an attachment pic of the fan.
thanks again al it's almost all done now and i definately owe it to you
 

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grandpabear3

New Member
here's another one of the fan

also...bringing in the fresh air ...do i need an intake or will the passive intake resulting from tha vacuum caused by the 6"er be enough?
( if the rating is accurate)

or does the window unit a.c. bring any outside air in while it's running?
 

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Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
ya al that's what it says. i just bought it from htgsupply it's a 6" inline centrifigal fan.
Ah, ok- it's a centrif! Didn't know that til here! No wonder it can shift >400CFM. :D

also...bringing in the fresh air ...do i need an intake or will the passive intake resulting from tha vacuum caused by the 6"er be enough?
( if the rating is accurate)
You can use passive intake, but there has to be a dedicated intake opening- relying on leaks for inbound air isn't wise. Intakes should be near the floor in the room. Passive intakes should be about twice the size of the exhaust ducting.

Use of an intake fan makes the flowthrough much more efficient. You could use a single 6" fan. It can be an axial since intake fans are pushing into a low static pressure created by the exhaust blower. Intakes should be rated no more than about 80-90% of the exhaust blower. This keeps the room at a slightly negative pressure compared to atmospheric. This way, air leakage though any gaps in the room construction is inward rather than outward, meaning all your grow room air & scents are going down the exhaust line and through your carbon filter if you have one. It is also easier to light-trap a single inlet with an intake blower.

or does the window unit a.c. bring any outside air in while it's running?
Some aircon units have a ventilate/recirculate setting. On 'ventilate' a small amount of air is brought in from outdoors. However, it's hard to tell exactly how much air will move through that small duct in the a/c unit. You're better off periodically running your exhaust blower with a timer.
 
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smartfood

Well-Known Member
Hey Al, you said it'd take about three weeks to veg up mums with fluoros right? That's what I'm doing but the stems really don't get very thick. I'm using mixed spectrum right now; would you suggest going completely to 2700K fluoros (As MH/HPS isn't a possibility right now)? That'd be closer in spectrum to HPS (which is what I believe you cited as the source of your thick stems). Thanks!

SF
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
Hey Al, you said it'd take about three weeks to veg up mums with fluoros right?
Did I? I might have thought it would take about 3 wks under an HPS or MH to get a clone up to a size suiting taking cuttings, would be a cpl wks longer (at least) under flos.

That'd be closer in spectrum to HPS (which is what I believe you cited as the source of your thick stems).
No, it's not the spectrum, it's the luminous intensity that drives plant growth. Spectrum will favour certain growth characters, but you can veg with HPS or flower with MH if it suits you. I use the HPS in veg, not because it develops thick stems but because it tends to cause some elongation in mums, giving me long stems for cuttings.

Fluoros deliver low intensity light. Won't matter to the plant what the spectrum is if it is not getting enough intensity. Fluoros will (eventually) grow plants, but your patience will be tested in the meantime. If you want faster plant development, you're gonna have to find a way to get high intensity light in there.
 
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smartfood

Well-Known Member
With the space available and only 2 mums, do you think one 100W MH Flood light @ +/- 8,000 lumens would be adequate? I might be able to fit 2 of those in there if need be. Again, thanks for your advice!
 

fanatic

Active Member
Al, very nice effort in this thread. I've learned a lot. I started reading the first 50 pages, but then.... lazyness, hopefully you'll understand, got to me and I had to go to the last page a write.

I run a perpetual setup, like yours (somewhat), except mine is twice the size (I harvest every week). For years, it has been a straightforward soil grow, 15 plants (8" pots) under a 600W lamp.... I run 8 of those in flowering, in two separate rooms (one goes on right after the other room goes off, beause of electric concerns).
In addition, I have a vegetative room, where I keep two 400W MH, and several flouros (another 800W in total)...... each of the three rooms I have an AC running at all times... i'm in a warm city.
For all my efforts in increasing yields..... I've only managed to get 10 or 11 oz dry bud per week.

I'm going to start changing to your method. I've already started with the clones, and I' m going to keep mothers for the first time in my life....
My question is.....
should I discard the 600W HPS lights?, or could I succesfully place a 600W HPS on top of each tray (as oppossed to your 1000 per pair of trays)?
Also, could I use coco coir instead of the fytocell? (I cant get anything rockwool or fytocell in my city)
I want to start with one room first.
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
With the space available and only 2 mums, do you think one 100W MH Flood light @ +/- 8,000 lumens would be adequate? I might be able to fit 2 of those in there if need be. Again, thanks for your advice!
8000 lumens isn't terribly bright. I think I've seen some fluoros at 6000. If you're prepared to put 200W worth of power at it, could you go a 175MH (~15,000 lumens) or a 250 HPS (28,000 lumens)? Better to go with a single bright light than a pair of comparatively dimmer ones.

I've only managed to get 10 or 11 oz dry bud per week.
You're getting pretty much the same as I am. I pull about 23oz every 2 weeks off 23 SoG style plants. However, if you're flowering only with a single 600, you are kicking my ass from here to Mars and back! I run a pair of 1000s, as you know. If I were you, I don't think I'd be bitching too loud. :D

I'm going to start changing to your method. I've already started with the clones, and I' m going to keep mothers for the first time in my life....
Mums are a piece of piss to keep. No sweat.

You might rethink your layout. You won't need near as much space nor light for vegging if you switch to SoG. A 400 will support 8-10 mums, might be able to do it with a 250HPS. About 5% of your floorspace can go to vegging mums, the rest to flowering.

My question is.....
should I discard the 600W HPS lights?, or could I succesfully place a 600W HPS on top of each tray (as oppossed to your 1000 per pair of trays)?
Nah, the 600HPS is a very fine light. Use 'em. I could easily see my op with a 600 over each tray. Without cooltubes, a 600 can be spaced closer to leaves than a 1000. A 600 usually does about 95,000 lumens, a 1000 does 160,000, but since a 600 can be dropped down lower, the actual lumens per sq metre (lux) applied can be the same or higher than a 1000.

However, when fitted in cooltubes, the 1000 can be spaced the same as a 600- and beats its pants off in the process in terms of laying down lux on the leaves.

The downside to using 600s is that they are marginally less efficient in lumens per watt than 1000s and you have to have twice the number of ballasts and reflectors. It'd work fine, let 'er rip. :)

Also, could I use coco coir instead of the fytocell? (I cant get anything rockwool or fytocell in my city)
Sure, you could use coir, could use pellets, etc. Whatever you can stuff in a pot. I'm not a fan of coir and have seen it break up when exposed to H2O2, but a knee-hi stocking over the bottom of each pot should contain any loose frags that might foul a water pump. However, it will work for you.

ever been busted al?
Never- and it's not because I'm real smart or real lucky. It's because I'm very security minded and I always plan ahead. I calculate risks and evaluate security at every turn. It's a lot of mental runtime that I'd rather not do, but it's part of the gig.
 

Sativa's Son

Active Member
Al,
Speaking of being busted. Is'nt there somewhere in this thread where you mentioned how you can be safer, security wise? I also read on the first page where you said you were only pulling 13 - 16 oz every two weeks, now your pulling 23 oz's every two weeks? What's different?
 

DrGreenFinger

Well-Known Member
8000 lumens isn't terribly bright. I think I've seen some fluoros at 6000. If you're prepared to put 200W worth of power at it, could you go a 175MH (~15,000 lumens) or a 250 HPS (28,000 lumens)? Better to go with a single bright light than a pair of comparatively dimmer ones.

You're getting pretty much the same as I am. I pull about 23oz every 2 weeks off 23 SoG style plants. However, if you're flowering only with a single 600, you are kicking my ass from here to Mars and back! I run a pair of 1000s, as you know. If I were you, I don't think I'd be bitching too loud. :D

Mums are a piece of piss to keep. No sweat.

You might rethink your layout. You won't need near as much space nor light for vegging if you switch to SoG. A 400 will support 8-10 mums, might be able to do it with a 250HPS. About 5% of your floorspace can go to vegging mums, the rest to flowering.

Nah, the 600HPS is a very fine light. Use 'em. I could easily see my op with a 600 over each tray. Without cooltubes, a 600 can be spaced closer to leaves than a 1000. A 600 usually does about 95,000 lumens, a 1000 does 160,000, but since a 600 can be dropped down lower, the actual lumens per sq metre (lux) applied can be the same or higher than a 1000.

However, when fitted in cooltubes, the 1000 can be spaced the same as a 600- and beats its pants off in the process in terms of laying down lux on the leaves.

The downside to using 600s is that they are marginally less efficient in lumens per watt than 1000s and you have to have twice the number of ballasts and reflectors. It'd work fine, let 'er rip. :)

Sure, you could use coir, could use pellets, etc. Whatever you can stuff in a pot. I'm not a fan of coir and have seen it break up when exposed to H2O2, but a knee-hi stocking over the bottom of each pot should contain any loose frags that might foul a water pump. However, it will work for you.



Never- and it's not because I'm real smart or real lucky. It's because I'm very security minded and I always plan ahead. I calculate risks and evaluate security at every turn. It's a lot of mental runtime that I'd rather not do, but it's part of the gig.

a lot of people dont understand that it is better to adopt this way of thinking on your own NOW, as opposed to enduring years of trouble only to adopt this way of thinking later, and by force...or they could just remain fools. :mrgreen: :peace:
 

Wesley1Pipes

Active Member
Why do you prefer solid pots vs. net pots? Do the roots get to much exposure in net pots? I was worried about solid pots floating with only 40mm RW cubes and clay pellets- and like I said I can't get my hands on fytocell yet. (The advanced thread search isn't very helpful- unless you actually haven't commented on them in your 15 month post (nice stamina btw))
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
Al,
Speaking of being busted. Is'nt there somewhere in this thread where you mentioned how you can be safer, security wise?
yeah- be a one man band. Partners are trouble, every single time.

I also read on the first page where you said you were only pulling 13 - 16 oz every two weeks, now your pulling 23 oz's every two weeks? What's different?
hmm... 90% of it was remediation, fixing broken stuff. Since post #1... new 600CFM exhaust blower, corrected misuse of PK-13-14, cooltubes now hold temps @ 25C +/- 1C and allow closer lamp-leaf spacing, sulfur 'burner' halted powdery mildew, replaced faulty pH pen electrode.

Why do you prefer solid pots vs. net pots? Do the roots get to much exposure in net pots? I was worried about solid pots floating with only 40mm RW cubes and clay pellets- and like I said I can't get my hands on fytocell yet. (The advanced thread search isn't very helpful- unless you actually haven't commented on them in your 15 month post (nice stamina btw))
You can stop worrying about pots of pellets floating- they won't. Won't matter if they are in normal pots with drain holes or netpots.

Solid wall pots, with drain holes of course, better suit a flood sys. Netpots are useful in an aero or DWC application where easy exit for the roots from the pots is desirable and where the roots are protected or constantly kept moist once they do emerge from the pots. If netpots are used in a flood sys, the roots would be air-pruned as soon as they poked their noses out.

Also, common plastic pots are usually lots cheaper than netpots- I get 175mm pots for 45c each in stacks of 70 from this mob.
 
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lotowork777

Active Member
Al B Fuct,

I have four 100 gallon resovoirs , four trays , 12 fans, 16 ballasts , 16, 600 watts, so I have the equip and it is a hydro grow. I vegg for 2 to 6 weeks and then a 8 week flower. The harvest is usually 8 solid pounds. What do you suggest or what do I need to do to get on a harvest every 2 weeks. Is that something that I haveto build up to somehow. What kind of schedrule do I need. Also what PPM do you use? Thanks
 

stickyicky77

Well-Known Member
Al B Fuct,

I have four 100 gallon resovoirs , four trays , 12 fans, 16 ballasts , 16, 600 watts, so I have the equip and it is a hydro grow. I vegg for 2 to 6 weeks and then a 8 week flower. The harvest is usually 8 solid pounds. What do you suggest or what do I need to do to get on a harvest every 2 weeks. Is that something that I haveto build up to somehow. What kind of schedrule do I need. Also what PPM do you use? Thanks
READ page 1.
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
Al B Fuct,
What do you suggest or what do I need to do to get on a harvest every 2 weeks. Is that something that I haveto build up to somehow. What kind of schedrule do I need.
You simply need to establish some mother plants (in your case a LOT of them) and start taking cuttings every 2 weeks.

Also what PPM do you use?
Flowering plants get Canna Flores, 1400ppm @ 5.8. Mums get Canna Vega, 1500-1800, also at 5.8.

Hey AL, i was just wondering is this how you make your living? That would be my dream job lol.
While I'm not actually prepared to describe my income circumstance, the op does pay its own way- and I have little time to do much else.
 
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